The new Larousse gastronomique: the encyclopedia of food, wine & cookery

w The lt-lew • l Larous se G as tronomique

Prefaces by Auguste Eseofrer and Phtl6as Gllbert to the or{gtnal edltion of to

Larousse Gastronomique Publishers' note note Publishers' Escffier died before the edition o/ Larousse Gastronomique Gastronomique was first edition of Larousse Escoffier died before the first published in great,king IgJg; the of cooks and the cook of of kings' kings, wrote wrote puhlished in 1938; the great 'king of cooks and the cook preface his phitias after readhg the draft of the manusuipt. his reading the first draft of the Philéa.s Gilbert laler later saw saw the the complete work work and and added added aa supplementary supplementary preface. preface. Gilbert

The history of of the the table of aa nation nation is is aa reflection of the the cÏvilization civilization of of that nation. nation. To To show show the The table of reflection of

changes in the order and serving of meals from century to century, to describe comment on the ...., .........b'~'" in the order and of meals from to to describe and comment progress of the French cuisine, is to paint a picture of the many stages through which progress of the French is to a of the which a a nation has evolved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating wild roots, has ev01ved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived caves, fOOts,

raw raw fish fish and and the the still still pulsating flesh flesh of of animals animais killed kiHed with with the the spear. spear. It is this history that is the subject of Larowse inwhich It is this that is the of Larousse Gastronomtqtrc, Ga.stronomique, in which Prosper Montagn6 has outlined .pages all thousandpages aH the the improvements improvements brought brought to to the the culinary art art from outlined in in some sorne thousand prehlstoric times to the present day. Presented in the form of a dictionary, it sums up all that has "", • .u.",~,","'''''' times to the Presented in the form of a dictionary, it aH that has been achieved by the science of alimentation, and everything in it has been minutely studied and and in it has been studied and been achieved described. described. Those Those who who make make a a profession pr()te~;Slcm of gastronomy will will find find in in this this book book matter matter for for comparison between what used to be the art of good eating and what it is today. Housewives will be particularly between what used to he the art of Housewives win be interested in the evolution of the table through the ages, its refinements modified in each epoch*to a înterested in the evolution of the table the ages, its refinements modified in each a certain extent by the exigencies of reigning fashions. hofessional cooks, both men and women, will the of """F.~J fashions. Professional both men and women, wî11 certain extent be HA~~!-,M~~ of of aa culinary technique founded founded on on the the universally llnIV"""C::~ be able able to to draw draw inspiration from the principles recognized knowledge and authority of the author. The text of the book and the recipes are enlivened are enlivened of the author. The text of the book and the by and legendary .'"'/5,""' .......... tales. by attractive attractive anecdotes anecdotes and tlVhile waiting to read them in print, I went through the While to read them in the innumerable innumerable manuscript pages pages of of this this encyclopedia and I am still under the spell cast by this work. How could it have been completed so this work. How could it have been so cm;ycloptoolla and 1 am still under the rapidly? For For the the author author had had only one one collaborator, albeit albeit an an eminent eminent one, one. who who was was entrusted entrusted with with all aH scientific scientific and and medical medical subjects, and and the the material material was was prepared in in less less than than three three yearsi. years. Iarotuse Gastronomique is a model of exactitude precision and in Larousse Gastronomique is a model of exactitude and in all an that that concerns concerns the the etymology of ofcertain certainwords, the thedefinition definition of ofculinary terms, terms, the theorigin of offoods foods inin everyday use useand and the the many many recipes for each grven dish. dish. ..UJIF.

Symbols Sym bolsofplenty of p!enl y- -bread breadand andwine, wme.meat mealand andeggs cggs(phot. (Phal. Nicotasl Nico/as)

and there are some very attractive Numerous descriptive photographs illustrate illustratecertain certain subjects, subjects, and there are sorne very attractive plates show finished dishes with their reproductions of antique engravings. Magnificent colour show tinished dishes with their col our appropriate garnishes. were well aware of this, had not Such work would would have have been been incomplete, and and the the authors authors were well aware of this, had not Such aa work vineyards. The greatest of these, considerable considerable space spacebeen beenreserved reserved for for the the riches riches of ofour ourfamous famous French French vineyards. The greatest of these, classified, are shown together ~V!,~"'~.""'l in in explicit tables. tables. some gastronomes of great renown of Finally, the biographies of certain certain maitres maîtres de de cuisine cuisine and and sorne gastronomes of great renown gastronomical bibliography mentions a are are for for ever ever immortalized immortalized in in these these pages, pages, and and aa culinary culinary and and gastronomical bibliography mentions a to the bibliophiles. great great number number of of works, some some of of which which are are perhaps perhaps unknown unknown to the bibliophiles. will find that Prosper Montagn6's All AH those those who who make make aa cult cult of of good eating and and good drinking drinking will find that Prosper Montagné's with interest and one that will have a Larousse Larousse Gastronomique Gastronomique isindeed is indeed aa work work that that they they will will consult consult with interest and one that will have a merited and just reward, which I prominent place in And this this will wîll be be the the author's author's merited and just reward, which 1 in their their library. library. And heartily applaud. Auguste Escoffier Auguste Escoffier

read the first draft of the after having formed after opinion he the opinion outlined the his preface, Escoffier outlined In his ln he formed having read the tirst draft of the completed' Being in a and revised later considerably revised was later Thismanuscript Gastronomique. This Lqousse Gastronomique. and in a Larousse manuscript was these final pages that my judgment was of these study of the study on the was on it was he, it position than than he, favourable positîon more favourable more final pages that my was founded because I have been able to see better founded the better is ait all the and is Escoffier and of Escoffier that of with that conforms with because 1 have been able to see based; itit conforms he predicted. what he for myself what Predicted. for prosper Montagnd, realized that he had undertaken a formidable of Prosper friends of otd friends and Escoffier and l,I, old Montagné, reaHzed that he had undertaken a formidable Escoffier understand the importance, but knowing can understand works can of culinary works authors of the authors only the which only of which one of task, one task, the but extensive erudition and his professional his extensive willpower, inflexible will his inflexible and his work and for work his capacity for his power, his erudition and his professional great cooks of our time, we were certain that he place among among great first place the first in the him in which puts him knowledge, which knowledge, cooks of our we were certain that he conclusion' successful a to it bring it to a successful conclusion. would bring would food or who are interested with food do with to do anything to have anything who have those who all those to ail wrote, itit isis to Escoffier wrote, As Escoffier As or who are interested addressed. It is-dare say it-the book îsis addressed. this book that this table, that the table, and the cuisineand the cuisine of the history of in the the history in It is-dare 1 say it-the of Prosper Montagnd. work of the professional work of the apotheosis of apotheosis vade-mecum for everyone' a reliable is-a vade-mecum mustbecome-and Gastrinomiquemust Larousse Gastronomique Larousse become--and itit already is-a for everyone, a reliable what subject connected with the matter what no matter onno and on momentand anymoment consulted atatany to be beconsulted ready to counsellor rcady subject connected with the counsellor table' thetable. ofthe artsof thearts and the sciencesand alimentary sciences alimentary effort may find its reward and perseveringeffort suchaa magnificent and thatsuch heartily that wish heartily Like Escoffier,l Iwish may find its reward Like deserves from any point it which welcome a conceived, it was whom for those of welcome the in in the welcome of those for whom ît was /"1"",,/""'1\,,"'''' a welcome which il deserves from any ofview. of Phil6as Gilbert Philéas Gilbert

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THE NEW

LAROUSSE GASIil}K(EN@NilHruffiTE MI T THE ENCYCLOPEDIA EE PE lA OF FO FOOD, WINE \TINE OF

& COOKERY OOKERY

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7fontagni by Prosper J\!(ontagné

AMERICAN AMERICAN EDITOR, EDITOR: CT{ARLOTTE CHARLOTTE TURGEON TURGEON PREFACE ROBERT J. COURTTNE PREFACE BY BY ROBERT]. COURTINE

oRrcrNAL ORIGINAL pREFACEs PREFACES By BY AucusrE AUGUSTE EscoFFrER ESCOFFIER AND pmldns PHILÉAS GTLBERT GILBERT TEXT THE FRENCH TEXT TRANSLATED TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH BY MARION MARION HUNTER HUNTER M.I.L. M.LL.

too o 1000

ations 1Jncluding Jllustr ncluding Jllustrations

7[any Many in Jull '}=ull Color

CRO\TN INC. CROWN PUBLISHERS, PUBLIS E IN .· NE NEWT YORK

Prosper Montagn6 Montagné by Prosper Originally published published under under the the title N ouv e au Lar ou s s e G astronomique Nouveau Larousse Gastronomique American Charlotte Turgeon American Editor Editor:: Charlotte

CopyrightLibrairieLarousse, © Librairie Larousse, Paris 19. 1960 @ Copyright

Hamlyn Publishing Group Limited Copyright English text The Hamlyn © Copyright Limited 1977 @

All AU rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in including photocopymechanical, including any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, photocopyretrieval system,without storage and retrieval ing, recording, or by any information system, without inlormation storage permission permission in writing lrorn from the Publisher. Inquiries Inquiries should be addressed to inwriting New York, N.Y. 10016. Crown Publishers, Inc., One Park Avenue, New Publishers,Inc., Printed in the U.S.A. Printed U.S.A. Company Limited Published simultaneously Publishing Company simultaneously in Canada Canada by General Publishing C ongr es s Cataloging C atalo ging in Publication Library of Congress Publication Data Library

Main entry under under title: gastronomique. Larousse gastronomique. The New Larousse gastronomique. Translation of Nouveau Translation Nouveau Larousse gastronomique. published under Larousse 1961, by under title: title: Larousse Ed. for for 1961, by P. P. Montagné, Montagnd, published Ed. gastronomique. gastronomique. 1. Cookery-Dictionaries-French. 2. Food-Dictionaries1. 2. Food-DictionariesFrench. 3. 3. Cookery, Cookery, French. French. 1. I. Dunbar, Dunbar, Janet. Janet. Il. II. Montagné, Montagnd, Prosper, French. gastronomique. 1 865- 1948. Larousse gastronomique. 1865-1948. TX349.M613 1977 1977 641'.03 641'.O3 77-9905 TX349.M613 0-517-53 137-2 ISBN 0-517-53137-2

Preface In his preface to first edition of Larousse In to the the first Gas tr onomique Escoffier wrote: wrote : Gastronomique 'The history history of 'The of a nation's table is a reflection of the civilisation the civilisation of of that nation. To To show that nation. show the changes changes in the order and serving of meals from century to century, to describe and comment on the progress of the French cuisine, is is to paint a picture many stages picture of the the many stages through through which which a nation has evolved since the distant times when, as aa weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating as wild roots, raw fish and the still pulsating flesh of animals killed animaIs kiUed with the spear. 'It is this history that is the subject 'It of Larousse subjectof Montagn6 has Gastronomique, in which Prosper Montagné pages aH some thousand outlined in sorne thousand pages all the improvements from preart from brought to to the the culinary art ments brought historic times to the historic thé present day. Presented in the of a dictionary, dictionary, it sums up aIl form of all that has been achieved by by the achieved the science science of of alimentation, alimentation, and everything in it it has has been been minutely studied and described. 'Those 'Those who make a profession of gastronomy

will find find in this book for comparison will in this book matter matter for between what used used to be the art of good eating what it and what it is will be and is today. today. Housewives Housewives will particularly interested interested in in the the evolution of of the table through through the ages, ages, its refinements modified in in each each epoch -- to to aa certain extent by by the certain extent reigning fashions. exigencies of of reigning exigencies fashions. Professional Professional cooks, both both men men and women, will be able to draw principles of inspiration from of aa culinary from the the principles technique founded on the universally recognised technique recognÎsed knowledge and authority of of the author. The rest of the book and and the the recipes are are enlivened enlivened by attractive anecdotes anecdotes and legendary legendary tales.' work of Prosper Montagn6 The work Montagné (and of Dr. Gottschalk, who who helped him Gottschalk, him notably with with the historical, scien tific and medical scientific medical material) is an historic work which it 1S is proper to revive today, historic adding new gastronomic while retaining its SLflDD()IDIC treats white style and and balance. Indeed, if if the the history of domestic cooking, which is inseparable inseparable from the domestîc history of the people, hasn't changed and if the great recipes remain remain the same despite despite the great the same tremendous simplification of modern modern cooking, tremendous on the other other hand dietetics is a new science which

has rediscovered redîscovered -- in order to endorse endorse them --- the broad ancient practice, somewhat broad outlines outlines of ancient somewhat forgotten since the beginning forgotten beginning of of this century. It It is essential to incorporate into this work work the lessons essential learnt from from aa combination combination of ancient wisdom and modern research. Legislation, as has modified modified the weH, has as well, the basic nutrition of twentieth-century twentieth-century man, and if if the man, and gourmet can still, with justification, reject certain gourmet progress, he must forms of must nevertheless take forms of progress, note of them. them. Moreover, taking his pleasures of the table where he can find thern, he has to recogrocognise, for for instance, instance, that freezing or freezenise, that deep deep freezing drying (words which w€re were unknown to Prosper Montagn6 and his contemporaries) offer to the Montagné and as well as to appetite as weIl as to the the greed greed of man man many satisfying satisfying solutions. solutions. The laws pertaining to vines have The laws wine and to wine and vines wine scene the wine in France. altered the considerably altered scene in Chefs in general are little Httle interested În in wine, and this is doubtless whyhitherto why hitherto Larotnse Larousse Gastronomique has neglected I ne~~ectea the cellar. My friends and 1 have made a better selection from French wines and those from other countries, countries, bearing bearing in mind the latest rules and regulations. Jean Desmur, who may deserve thetitle'Pic the-title 'Pic de La Mirandole de la la gastronomie', took La Mirandole de took upon duty himself the the dut y of recounting the details of the details gastronomical folklore, domestic history and and gastronomical domestic history date with what and because hecause one must be he up to to date one loves, we Est list the food and wine associations which have have multiplied multiplied since the last war. All this rounds out the original work without AH changing the direction or the balance. This either changing either profound wish. least our profound is aatt least It remains for me to introduce and thank the contributors of this new edîtion: contributors edition: Madeleine Decure, director of the the publication et vins Cuisine el Cuisine vins de France Jean D. Jean D. Arnaboldi, Arnaboldi, chief editor editor of the the publication ca tion Bien Bien Vivre Frangoise d'Athis, general secretary of of the the Revue du vin de France of I'Acad6mie Rabelais Henry Clos-Jouve, ofl'Académie Jean Desmur Robert J. Courtine Courtine Pierre Neuville Neuville

Table of of Comparative Comparative Measures Measrrres Table Note Note Published for throughout the for use use throughout the world, world, this this edition edition of of LAROUSSE Published LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE contains contains American American and and British British equivalents GASTRONOMIQUE equivalents as as well as as original original French French measurements measurements in in aIl all recipes. recipes. Occasionally weIl Occasionally what what appears to to be be aa discrepancy discrepancy in in conversion conversion may may occur. occur. In appears In fact fact this this results results from proportionate proportionate alteration quantities throughout alteration of of quantities throughout that that recipe from recipe in in order to to avoid avoid awkward awkward fractions in measurements. measurements. fractions in order The cups cups and quoted, together and tablespoons tablespoons quoted, together with The with the the French French measures, measures, in this this book book are are American American Standard, standard, which which are in slightly smaller are slightly smaller in in capacity than than British British Standard standard cups cups and capacity and spoons. spoons. The The American American and and Canadian Standard pint measuring Standard -!-* pint Canadian measuring cup cup has has aa capacity capacity of of 88 fluid fluid ounces; the the British British Standard Standard Imperial pint measuring ounces; Imperial -!-] pint measuring cup cup has has aa e'apacity of 10 fluid of 10 fluid ounces. capacity ounces. The The American American and and Canadian canadian Standard Standard measuring tablespoon tablespoon measures measures i$ fluid measuring fluid ounce; ounce; the the British British Standard Standard tablespoon measures measures 1I fluid tablespoon fluid ounce. ounce. 33 teaspoons teaspoons are are equal equal to to 1I tabletablespoon. All measureme measutrmrlttr ts refer refer to to LEVEL LEVEL spoons spoons and and cups. cups.

LIQUID LIQIJID MEASURES MEASTJRES French

American American

British British

li lf pints

4i 4| cups cups or 1 quart 2 ounces orlquart2ounces

1I demilitre (-!$ litre)

pint iI pi nt (generous)

22 cups (generous) cups (generous) or pint (generous) (generous) or 11 pint

1I decili tre (($ -il> litre) decilitre

3-4 3-4 ounces

1-* cup (scant) cup (seant)

1I litre

1

or pint (seant) (scant) or iI pint

WEIGHT WBIGHT French 1

1I gram 1

28·35 28.35 grams

British and and American .035 .035 ounce -1I ounce ounce

100 grams

3-!3| ounces

14 grams I114

4 ounces ounces (approx.)

226· 78 grams 226'78

8 ounces ounces 8

500 grams 500

pound 1-!I1 pound 1| ounces ounces (approx.)

kilogram I1 kilogram

2·21 pounds 2'21

APPROXlMATE EQUTVALENTS EQUIVALENTS FOR FOR BASIC BASIC FOODS FoonS APPROXTMATE American

British British

French

Almonds, blanched, bJanched, whole whole Almonds,

150 grams

5| 5t ounces ounces

powder Baking powder

4.3 4·3 grams

1I teaspoon (approx.) 1I ounce ounce

30 grams

I1 cup I1 teaspoon (approx.)

2] 21 tablespoons

I1 cup I1 cup

90 grams 45 grams

3L 3! ounces

15 grams 125 grams 500 grams

ounce {1 ounce

500 grams

100 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous) (scant) 4 ounces (seant)

1I pound (generous) (generous) (scant) I1 cup (seant)

Coffee, medium ground

85 grams

3 ounces

I1 cup

(cornflour) Cornstarch (cornflour)

10 l0 grams

1I tablespoon tablespoon

Cream of tartar

3-4 grams

t$ ounce ounce ounce l$ ounce 1I pound

Breadcrumbs, dry Breadcrumbs, fresh fresh

,,

" Butter

Cheese Cheese

"),

(grated Parmesan) Parmesan)

r+ 1t ounc€s ounces

4 ounces I1 pound (generous) (generous)

1

Fish

500 grams

(generous) (generous) 1

Flour (unsifted, ail all purpose)

",,

(sifted, ail all purpose)

",,

(sifted cake (sifted cake and and pastry flour)

Fruit (fresh)

",,

(dried)

Gelatine (leaf sheets)

",,

(granulated) (granulated)

35 grams 70 grams grams 142 142 grams 500 grams

1I -ft ft ounces 2$ 2~ ounces 4f ounces 4! 1I pound

60 grams 128 grams 128

(generous) (generous) 1I ounce (generous) (generous) 2$ 2! ounces 4| ounces 41

30 grams 60 grams 120 120 grams

1I ounce 2 ounces 4 ounces

500 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous) 1 pound (generous) (generous)

32 grams

500 grams 6 medium size leaves 150 grams 150

I1 tablespoon tablespoon *1- cup 2 cups

1I teaspoon

1I pound (generous) (generous)

t* cup *t cup 1I cup

3| cups 3t

t

cup

t* cup

1I cup

*t cup 1-* cup 1I cup 1I pound (generous) (generous) 2 cups

1I ounce

2 tablespoons

5$ ounces 51

1I cup 11 pound (generous) (generous) 1I cup 2 tablespoons

Meats

500 grams

(diced) ",, Mustard (dry)

grams 226 226 grams

1 pound (generous) (generous) 88 ounces

15 grams 15

tI ounce

--

French French

British British

American American

ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous) ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous) ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous)

4|tablespoons tablespoons 4t

grams 12 grams 12 grams 200 grams 200 grams l0 grams 10 grams 160 grams 160 grams 500 grams 500

lounce $ ounce 6$ ounces ounces 61 ounce l$ ounce 5$ ounces ounces 51 pound 1I pound

tablespoon 1 tablespoon 1 cup cup 1 tablespoon tablespoon 1 cup cup 3 cups cups

Rice Rice

grams 240 grams 240

***t 88 ounces

1 cup cup

Salt Salt

grams 15 grams 15

ounce tI ounce

1I tablespoon tablespoon

(ground) Spices (ground) Spices

grams 2| grams 2t grams 15 grams 15

ounce -Px $ ounce ounce tI ounce

1I teaspoon teaspoon 22 tablespoons tablespoons

(fine granulated) granulated) Sugar (fine Sugar

ounce l$ ounce

(powdered)

grams 55 grams grams 15 grams 15 grams 60 grams 60 grams 240 grams 240 grams 34 grams 34

1I teaspoon teaspoon 1I tablespoon tablespoon !* cup cup 1I cup cup !* cup cup

(confectioner's or icing)

grams 68 grams 68 140 grams 140 grams 35 grams 35

Pepper (whole (whole white) white) Pepper

,, ,, " "

(whole black) (who le black)

grams 30 grams 30

(powdered) (powdered)

grams 30 grams 30

(seeded) Raisins (seeded) Raisins

,,

"

,,

"

,, " ,, "

(seedless) (seedless)

(brown)

Vegetables (fresh)

"

grams 30 grams 30

tablespoons 44tablespoons

ounce tI ounce 22 ounces ounces 88 ounces ounces 1I ounce ounce (generous) (generous) 2, 2f ounces ounces 4~ 4$ ounces ounces 1I ounce ounce (generous) (generous) 2; 2f ounces ounces 14; 4f ounces i$ ounce ounce 2i 2$ ounces 5t 5$ ounces

tl cup cup 1I cup cup 1I tablespoon tablespoon t* cup cup 1I cup cup

500 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous)

1I pound pound (generous) (generous)

500 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous)

22 cups cups

70 grams 140 grams 10 l0 grams 80 grams 160 grams

(dried: Ientils lentils or split peas) peas)

3ftablespoons tablespoons 3i

tt cup cup 1I cup cup !* cup cup

H ABAISSE - A tenu pastry-making to describe ABAISSE-A term used in French French pastry-making (or sheet) sheet) of pastry. It is also used to aa piece piece (or of rolled-out pastry. It is also used describe aalayer layer of sponge cake or biscuit. ofsponge

may be or, better still, aa handful be substituted for the sage or, handful of an orange. orange. Bay leaves are rosemary boiled boiled with the skin with the skin of an (le Minagier good.' (le fourteenth century) Ménagier de Paris, fourteenth also good.'

c,{trrsrre -- Fourth Fourth stomach of the the rumiABOMASUM. CAILLETTE (solid rennet) its extract, nants. Dried Dried caillette rennet) or or its extract, liquid nants. caillette (solid in the the cheese-making cheese-making used in rennet (obtained by by infusion) is used coagulating milk. industry for coagulating Arddche and and La is also also the the name name given in Caillette in the the Ardèche Caillette is Dr6me to aa large large sausage stuffed with aa mixture of minced Drôme pig's liver leaves. Iiver and chard Ieaves. ABONDANCE ABONDANCE -- Wine diluted with water. the drink drink which which in in days This ironically describes This word word ironically describes the gone go ne by used used to be served in schools or colleges, where wine deprecattenu is used, deprecatwas scarce and and water abundant. The term ingly, of watered-down wine. An abaisse of pastry

(Hunger-killer) -- A A substantial substantial dish dish served ABAT-FAIM (Hunger-killer) early in the meal.

ABATTE (Beater) -- A A popular corruption corruption of the ABATTE the French (to beat). word battre battre (to An abatte is is aa rather rather thick, word beat). An thick, broad, double-edged knife used flattening meal. meat. double-edged used for f1attening grown in plant grown ABEL-MUSK. AMBRETTE ,c,Mnnnrrr -- An ABEL-MUSK. An aromatic aromatic plant very strong, must have aa very mustyy Martinique, the the seeds of which which have smell. In India these seeds are mixed with coffee to give it a smel!. these seeds heighten its stimulating properties. and to heighten special aroma, and ambergris-scented variety Ambrette is also the name of an ambergris-scented of pear. TABLE. ABLUTIONS ABLUTIoNs DE DE TABLE rABLE -- The custom ABLUTIONS, TABLE. rinse their of passing bowls of water to to guests at at table, to to rinse meal, or after eating fingers at the end of eating certain dishes dishes with of a rneal, back to earliest earliest antiquity. It was a common the fingers, goes back practice with practice with the the ancient ancient Egyptians, Egyptians, the the Greeks Greeks and and the Romans, who hands before the meal Romans, who not only washed their hands but also between the courses. common to ail all ancient people, is explained 'This practice, cornmon by the fact that in those days food was taken taken with the fingers. (usually scented poured the servant poured A servant the contents of aa vesse! vessel (usually A water) over the fingers fingers of the guest. In other circumstances, circumstances, (Vie privie simply hands were sim ply washed in a basin.' (Vie privée des anciens, by Louis Nicolas Menard) Menard) pouR UNE UNE EAU Recipe for for finger-bowl finger-bowl water. water. RECETTE FscETrE POUR Recipe D'ABLUTToN -- 'Boil 'Boil aa handful handful of sage in water. Pour off the D'ABLUTION marjoram resulting liquid and cool until tepid. Camomile or marjoram

Herb-flavoured wine. The The ancients ancients used ABROTONITE -- Herb-f1avoured ABROTONITE mugwort called abrotanum abrotanum in this wine of mugwort to macerate a sort of flavour. to enhance its f1avour.

ABSINTH. ABSINTHE ABSTNTHE -- Liqueur made made by by macerating and ABSINTH. (Artemisia absinthium) distilling thc thc leaves leaves of wormwood wormwood (Artemisia distilling plants (fennel, Chinese then adding adding other aromatic aromatic plants Chinese anise, then hyssop, etc.). Absinth (colloquially known as la verte) was the apéritif ap6ritif in Absinth the 1914 war. vogue before the vn D'ABSINTHE Absinth wine. VIN D'ABsINTHE -- Wine spiced by infusion infusion of of Absinth wormwood leaves. leaves. wormwood

Wormwood Wormwood a. Branch a. b. Inflorescence b. c. Flower Flower c.

v

ABSORPTION ABSORPTION ABSORPTION (Whinsical (Whimsical gastronomy) gastronomy)This was was the meal - This offered in l'École in bygone times times to to the the senior senior students of I'Ecole polytechniqrc arrivais. 'Enough 'Enough is bbsorbed absorbed there polytechnique by the new arrivals. to justify justify the name of of the ceremony.' ceremony.' (Lor6dan (Lorédan Larchey) Larchey)

ACETO-IX)LCE ACETO-DOLCE ('Sour*weet') ('Sour-sweet') -- An An Italian commercial product of a mixture of vegetables and fruit, first product consisting of pickled Muscat pickled in in vinegar, vinegar, then then preserved preserved in in a a syrup syrup of Muscat grape must, must, honey and mustard. It is is usually served as as an hors-d' œuvre. hors-d'euvre.

ABSTINENCE ABSTINENCE -- Days Days of of abstinence abstinence are those on which one should should abstain abstain from from eating eating meat, meat, although although one one is is not obliged to fast. Meat abstinence abstinence does not prevent one from fast. Meat Iiving nonnal life. In fact, fact, the total exclusion of living a perfectly perfectly normal certain foods and condiments condiments is indispensable in a number number of of dietary dietary regimes. A few days' fasting is also prescribed for those who have over-indulged over-indulged at table.

ACETOMEL. ACETOMEL. AcfroMELACÉTOMEL - Sour-sweet of honey Sour-sweet syrup made of and vinegar used in the preservation of of fruit. Quinces, Quinces, pears and grapes thus preserved of aceto-dolce, aceto-dolce, i.e. preserved take the name of sour-sweet sour-sweet fruit. inflammable liquid liquid -- A colourless, inflammable with an acrid burning burning taste and a quince-like quince-like smell. Acetone appears in the body when the process cif of decomposition decomposition of fatty matter is is deficient deficient and and particularly particularly when when the the diet diet is lacking in carbohydrates (sugar). This frequently frequently arises in severe of diabetes and starvation. starvation. severe cases ofdiabetes

ACETONE. ACETONE. AcfroNE ACÉTONE

ABUTILON -- There are more than sixty sixt y varieties of this plant the world. world. An An edible edible species species plant scattered scattered throughout the grows in Brazil. known Abuti/on esculentum esculentum grows Brazil. The The Brazilians Brazilians known as as Abutilon benças de deos and cook cook its flowers with meat. meat. call it bengas In ln Europe, abutilon abutilon is cultivated cul tiva ted as a garden garden plant for the beauty its flowers, ofits flowers, but only only rarely rarely for use as food. In some sorne beauty of countries, particularly particularly in Asia and and in the the West West Indies, its leaves manner of sorrel sorrel or leaves are are cooked cooked and and eaten in the the manner spinach. In India the the natives are very fond fond of the the species species known as Abutilon Abutilon indicam. indicum.

ACHARD - This word, derived from from the the Persian Persian ACHAR. AcHARD ACHAR. word atchar, atchar, describes describes a a strongly spiced spiced pickle pickle (usually (usually word saffron-coloured) saffron-coloured) made from from fruit, fruit, or vegetables, vegetables, or or very young, tender buds of of palm cabbage (palmetto) (palmetto) or bamboo bamboo sprouts. It is highly regarded throughout the Indian ArchiArchipelago, pelago, in Mauritius, and R6union Réunion Island. Island. Lemm ACHARDS DE DE crrRoNs CITR9NS Lemon achar (Creole cookery). cookery). AcHARDS Choose thin-skinned thin-skinned lemons lem ons and quarter quarter them. Extrait Extract the C6oose juice, juice, discard the pips, and macerate macerate the lemons in layers layers of kitchen kitchen salt. Remove the lemons from the salt and soak them in cold water several times. times. Boil in water for 24 hours, changing the water fresh fresh water water until the the lemons lemons become become soft. soft. Strain Strain offthe off the water. marinate in the following Dry the lemons and put them to marinate sauce: Pound a a large large onion, onion, a a pimento, pimento, and and a a large large piece of Pound grnger ginger to a fine fine paste paste in a mortar. mortar. (Ginger, (Ginger, as well weil as allspice, aUspice, Bourbon Bourbon saffron and Indian curry powder powder can be bought bought in of Bourbon Bourbon delicatessen shops.) shops.) Add vinegar vinegar and a teaspoon teaspoon of delicatessen best quality olive oil to ensure ensure saffron. Blend with sufficient best completely that the lemons, when packed into jars, will be completely covered. covered. ACHARDS DE DE pALMrsrEs PALMISTES Palmetto achar achar (Creole (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Palnetto Palmettos Palmettos (palm cabbage) cabbage) can can be be bought bought in in delicatessen delicatessen shops. Remove carefully from the can, can, discard discard the the oil in shops. olive which they were packed, and dress with good quality olive oil. ACHARDS os DE rfcuMts LÉGUMES Vegetable achar achar (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Vegetable seeds and and pulp pulp from from I1 or 2 cucumbers, and Remove the seeds Cut cucumbers, cucumbers, pimentos, the insides insides from from 22 large large pimentos. Cut the about several carrots carrots and French beans into into thin strips about and several (11 inches) long. Mix with florets of of cauliflower and 4 cm. (l| roughly chopped cabbage cabbage leaves. leaves. roughly hours. Drain Drain thoroughly, Macerate these these vegetables vegetables for 36 hours. Macerate Lemon dry, and season season with sauce sauce described described in the recipe recipe for Lemon dry, achar above. preserve the achar, spoon into glass preserving preserving jars, jars, To preserve coyer completely completely with good good quality olive oil, and and seal the cover jars jars hermetically. hermetically.

ACACIA-Acacia ACACIA - Acacia blossoms blossoms are are used used for making making fritters and a home-made liqueur. liqueur. Acacia blocsom FRITTERS. blossom fritters -- See FRITTERS. Acacia Hqueuror liqueur or ratafia ratafia -- See LIQUEUR. LIQUEUR.

ACAI\THUS ACANTHUS @rank-ursine). (Brank-ursine). lcaNrHn ACANTHE - This This most decoradecorative plant plant is commonly commonly found in southern France where its elegant, denticulated denticulated leaves leaves are are eaten, eaten, when when young, young, as as a salad. It has emollient emollient qualities. qualities. ACARNE ACARNE -- Name Name given giveil to the European fish fish commonly commonly known known as sea bream. bream. ACAVUS. AcAvE ACAVE - A variety of snail common in French French vineyards and gardens. gardens. ACCOLADE, ACCOLADE, ININ - A A manner manner of of arranging arranging pieces pieces of of the same same nature nature -- meat, meat, poultry, poultry, fish fish -- back back to to back on one dish. This This method of presentation presentation was was much much in vogue vogue in in the olden olden days. method of

Chickens Chickens served served en accolade

ACELIIYE ACELINE -- French French name name for for a a European European fish fish a a little resembling good and and itit isis prepared prepared resembling the the perch. perch. Its Its flesh flesh isis quite good like like perch perch (q.v.). (q.v.). ACET ABULUM. lcfrl.rur.E ACÉTABULE - The ancient Romans used ACETABULUM. the word acetabulum to describe describe the the vessel vessel that held the word acetabulum

AClllLLEA (Milfoil). .lcrtnr6r ACHILLÉE - Plant, Plant, of which which one ACHILLEA

vinegar. vinegar. It lt was was also also used used as a measure measure in medicine. medicine.

Achillea ptarmica, ptarmica, which which grows in woods, is edible. edible. species, Achillea Its tender young young leaves leaves are added added to salads. salads. Its

ACETIC ACETIC ACID. ACID. lcfnqun ACÉTIQUE -- The acid which which forms forms the the basis basis of of vinegar. vinegar. It It is is used used in in cooking sugar sugar in confectionery. confectionery.

ACID.

ACETIFICATION. ACETIFICATION. AcfTIFrcArroN ACÉTIFICATION - The chemical chemical reaction reaction by a a yeast yeast (Mycoderma (Mycoderma aceti). aceti). Aided Aided by by various various caused by caused

lemon juice juice and verjuice. lemon

ACETIMETER.,c,cfnMirns ACETIMETER. ACÉTIMÈTRE -- Instrument Instrument for for assessing assessing the the of concentration concentration of of vinegar. vinegar. degree of degree

ACIDIFIERS (Bilible). (Edible). ACIDIFIANTSACIDIFIANTS - Foods Foods that that build build up an ACIDIFIERS of acid in the the system, system, leading leading to acidification of the excess of body fluids. fluids. body Acid-tasting fruits are not not necessarily necessarily acidifiers; nor nor do Acid-tasting

ACIDE -- A chemical hydrogen hydrogen compound recognisrecognisAcIDE of causing causing litmus solution to turn red. red. by its its property pro pert y of able by

used in cooking are vinegar, The acids most commonly used

industrial VINEGAR), it it transforms transforms wine wine industrial processes processes (see (see VINEGAR), alcohol other alcoholic alcoholic liquid) liquid) into into acetic acetic acid. acid. alcohol (or (or other

2

ACROAMA the acid taste; lemons, for the latter latter necessarily necessarily possess possess an an acid taste; lemons, example, are not acidifiers. Meat pasta and bread bread Meat, game, sea fish, offal, cereals, flour, pasta are fish, eggs, eggs, butter, butter, are powerful acidifiers; acidifiers; ham, freshwater fish, fats, shoots, Brussels hop shoots, Brussels sprouts, fats, chocolate, chocolate, asparagus, asparagus, hop artichokes, onions, onions, chestnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, walnuts, walnuts, hazelnuts and almonds less seriously so.

types are GLAND - Fruit tree. Sorne ACORN. cLAND Fruit of the ttre oak oak tree. Some types and were were eaten by certain Asian peoples before they edible and :rcorns discovered discovered cereals. In sorne some countries, such as Spain, acorns roasted. Acorn flour (which unlike chicory chicory are eaten raw or roasted. for coffee. has is used as aa substitute substitute for used as has costive properties) properties) is roasted acorns of the For this purpose the roasted the ballota oak are most commonly commonly used. used.

-

AcTDTFIER ACIDIFIER - To add add acid acid (lemon juice, vinegar or verjuice) to a culinary preparation. preparation.

ACIDIFY.

A small small shellfish with a BARNACLE. slrlNn BALANE - A ACORN BARNACLE. ail seas, attached to conical irregular shell which is found in all rocks. rocks. It It is is also also commonly called called acorn acorn shell shell and and turban prepared like crab shell.Itsflesh shell. Its fiesh is quite delicate delicate and is prepared crab (q.v.).

ACIDITY. lcIorrf ACIDITÉ -- Acid taste. It exists naturally in certain vegetables and fruit and disappears disappears or diminishes as a result of a'blanching' a 'blanching' operation operation (see BLANCHING). BLANCHING). Nowadays, Nowadays, the the acidity acidity of a a liquid liquid is is measured measured in in pH units; these range from zero, for pure acid (such as as hydrochloric chloric acid), acid), to to 7, 7, which indicates indicates a a completely completely neutral neutral substance. The The scale scale continues above above 7 to indicate indicate degrees degrees of alkalinity alkalinity (opposite of acidity). acidity). The acidity of certain Tbe acidity scale shows shows the the degree of aeidity foods. foods. 14

Acorn barnacles barnacles stuck to a piece piece of of shell

Sodium

ACQUEITE -- An old, spirituous ACQUETTE very aromatic aromatic liquor, spirituous and very much prized in Italy and throughout the south of of France. Its appearance resembles that of Danziger Goldwasser (Danzig (Danzig appearance eau de de ure). vie). There There are are two two varieties: varieties: silver eau silver acquelle acquette (in d'oro). Italian aqua bianca), bianca), and gold acquelle Italian acquette (aqua doro). Silver acquette is made as follows: cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225 s. Ceylon cinnamon Cloyes 25 s. g. (L (1 oz.) Cloves Nutmeg (1 oz.) Nutmeg 25 g. (l 20 litres (4| (4t gallons, 5t 85° alcohol 85" 20litres 5] gallons) Steep these various ingredients in the alcoholfor alcohol for 24 hours, Steep these then distil distil without without rectifying; rectifying; you you will will obtain 20 litres then obtain 20 (4| (41 gallons, gallons, 5f 51 gallons) gallons) liqueur. liqueur. Dissolve 25 25 kg. kg. (55 (55 lb.) (2t gallons, 3 gallons) water and add the sugar in IIII litres (2| of the distillation. distillation. Leave Leave to rest for syrup obtained as as aa result result of syrup crushed silver silver leaf leaf into each the time time required, required, filter filter and put a crushed the each bottle. bottle. go Id acquette take: To prepare gold cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225 s. Ceylon cinnamon 15 s. g. (l (t oz.) Cl oveS Cloves g. G (3 oz.) Angelica roots Angelica 75 e. Crete Daucus of Crete 75 g. (3 oz:) Fresh lemon (peel of) 40 s. g. (r| (lJ oz.) a0 Fresh (4t gallons, 5| 5t gallons) 85° alcohol 20 litres (4| 85'alcohol 20litres Proceed as as for preparing silver acquette, with just one Proceed crushed gold leaf into each bottle. bottle. difference, that you put a crushed

t3 13 12 Sodium cyanide

1- Caffeine 11

Sodium carbonate

10

Phenol Ammonia

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0 -J«1-

\ \o \ {s~ l{l

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8. Bicarbonate ~~c:~~~:;te of soda ~

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ARTERIAl BlOOD 1.1...

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of soda

Soawater

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NEUTRALITY NEUTRALITY

c~1

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Hydrogen

peroxide

SWEAT Zinc chloride Zincchloride

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Lacticacid Lactic acid Orange iuice juice 0range Wine Grape iuice iuice Grapo Lomonjuice Lemon iuice

ACRIDOPHAGE -- One who feeds feeds on locusts. This food ACRIDOPHAGE but it is epicures of Europe, but may seem extraordinary to the epicures quite acceptable acceptable to African gastronomes. gastronomes. It appears appears that that the of locusts locusts resembles, ifif somewhat somewhat remotely, remotely, that of of raw tas te of taste shrimps.

GASTRfC JUIGE JUICE GASIBIC Acaticacid acid Acstic Pi cric scid acid Picric

Hydrochloric acid Hydrochloric

ACROAMA -- A A Greek Greek word, word, adopted adopted by by the the Romans, meaning 'that 'that to which which one one listens', listens', further further extended to meaning pays attention'. mean 'that to which one pays To better entertair entertah their guests, guests, the the patricians made a To habit of of summoning summoning musicians, poets, actors (who enacted, enacted, habit licentious scenes), scenes), men and women dancers, dancers, at times, very licentious jugglers, even gladiators gladiators and jugglers, acrobats, tumblers, tumblers, dwarfs dwarfs and even savage beasts beasts to perform perform while while the meal was in progress. progress. savage acroama meant not only these these To the Romans this word acroama types of entertainment, entertainment, but but also also the the performers performers various types themselves. themselves. acroama continued continued through the cenThe custom of the auoaftro but was renamed renamed entremets entremets ('between courses'). courses'). These turies but common with what what today today describes describes entremets had nothing nothing in common entremets

Acidity scale scale Acidity

ACIDLTLATE. ACIDULA TE. acnurnn ACIDULER - To render render a dish dish slightly acid, sour or piquant piquant by by the addition of of lemon, vinegar, etc. ACIDLJLATED. ACIDULATED. acnulE ACIDULÉ - Term Term which which is is only used used to describe describe mineral minerai waters waters charged charged with with carbonic carbonic acid. acid. ACON ACON -- An An implement implement used by by French mussel mussel farmers to gather gather the the mussels mussels from from the the mussel mussel beds beds in the the cove coye of Aiguillon, near near La Rochelle. Aiguillon, of this this tool tool dates dates back back to antiquity. It It isis mentioned mentioned The use use of The in Charlemagne's Capitularies. 3

ACTINIA ACTINIA course of of vegetables vegetables or or aa sweet sweet course course served served towards towards the the aa course end of meal Acroama, of aa meal. Acroama,and the'spectacular entremets'that and the 'spectacular entremets' that end succeeded it, it, were were enacted all through enacted ail through the the meal. meal. succeeded

juices, remove panjuices, Strain the the pan removeexcess fatand excessfat andreduce reduce totothe Strain the desired consistency. consistency. desired Place the the agami agami on on aaserving serving dish dishsurrounded surroundedby Place bythe the garnishes. Coat with the sauce. Coat with thesauce. garnishes.

(Ser anemone). ACTINIA (Sea anemone). ACTINIE lcnNm -- Although Although actiniae actiniae ACfINIA (stinging) animais, are urticating urticating (stinging) animals, they they are are used as food used as food inin are certain localities. localities. The The inhabitants inhabitants of of southern southern coasts coasts of of certain France relish relish aa species species of of actinia actinia which which they they cali call rastègne rasftgne and and France maintain that that their their taste taste resembles resembles that that of of crabs. crabs. maintain Actiniae have have to to be be thoroughly thoroughly beaten beaten before before cooking cooking to to Actiniae tenderise them. them. They They can can then then be be fried, fried, made made into into fritters, fritters, tenderise omelettes, etc. etc. omelettes,

(Iove feast) AGAPE(Love feast)-- This Thiswas wasthe AGAPE ofthe themeal the name nameof which mealwhich the early early Christians Christians held held together together ininchurch, the church, ininmemory memory of of the Last Last Supper. Supper. The The Council the Council of of Carthage abolished the Carthage abolished the agapes in in A.D. a.o.397 put an 397in n order agapes order totoput anend endto tothe thecalumnies calumniesof of which they theywere which were the theobject. object. The meals meals held held by The earlyChristians by the theearly Christians ininthe thecatacombs catacombs inin memory of memory of the the martyrs martyrs were were also also called calledagapes. agapes. This word word nowadays nowadays isisused This used to todefine define an an important importantfamily family meal. meal.

ADOC -- Name Name sometimes given to sometimes given to sour sour milk. milk. ADOC ADLTLTERATION. FALSIFICATION FALsrFrcArroN -- A A deliberate deliberate lowering lowering ADULTERATION. quality of of the the quaJity foodstuffs for purpose of foodstuffs for the the pur gain. of illicit illicit gain. of pose of

(Bengal isinglass) AGAR-AGAR productobtained isinglass) -- AA product AGAR-AGAR (Bengal obtained from from various various seaweeds, seaweeds, known known also also as as Japanese Japanese moss, moss,Ceylon Ceylon moss. MOSS. Agar-agar Agar-agar isis collected collected in in the the form form of crinkly, whitish, of thin, thin, crinkly, whitish, transparent transparent strips. strips. ItIt swells swells slightly slightly inin cold coldwater water and and conconsiderably siderably so so in in boiling boiling water, water, in in which which itit finally finally dissolves. dissolves. AA jelly can fairly fairly stiff stiff jelly can be be obtained obtained from from it,it, which which isis used usedinin bacteriology. bacteriology. Its Its neutral neutral taste taste makes makes itit suitable suitable for for use incooking usein cookingand and jellies. confectionery, confectionery, and and fot for making making jellies. ItIt isis by regurgitating seaweed by regurgitating seaweed of of this that the salanthis type type that the salangane (Chinese swalIow) gane (Chinese prized by swallow) builds builds its its nest, nest, so so much much prized by the me of'bird's the Chinese Chinese under under the the na name of 'bird's nest', nest', for for which whichfactoryfactorymade passed-off in made agar-agar agar-agar isis often often passed-off in the West. the West. Agar-agar toms Agar-agar always always contains contains the the carapaces carapaces of of dia diatoms (microscopic (microscopic unicellular unicellular algae) algae) easiJy easily identifiable identifiable under under the the microscope. microscope. This possible the This factor factor makes makes possible rapid detection the rapid detection of any fraudulent the product. fraudulent use product. ofany use of ofthe

/SGINETIA. JEGINETIE .EcrNErrE -- The The type genus of plant, type genus A:GINETIA. of this this plant, Eginetia indica, indica, isis indigenous indigenous to to the the East East Indies. Indies. The /Eginetia The natives natives of the coast coast of of Malabar Malabar cali call itit tsiem-cumulu tsiem-cumulu and of and blend with blend itit with nutmeg and and sugar (chewingsugar to to form form an an excellent excellent mascatory nutmeg mascatory (chewinggum) used used for for strengthening strengthening the gum) the teeth teeth and and combating combating bad bad breath. OF RHODES. RHODES. AEGIS mcn DE DE RHODES RHoDEs -- One AEGIS OF One of of the the seven seven great masters masters of of ancient ancient Greek (third century Greek cuisine cuisine (third great century B.C.). B.c.). in the the art art of of cooking cooking fish. He excelled in fish. Word used AFFINAGE -- Word used in in the the French French cheese cheese industry industry to to process of describe the the process of ripening ripening or describe or maturing maturing cheese cheese in in temperature'controlled tempera ture-controlJed cellars. cellars.

AFFRIANDER -- French French cuJinary AFFRIANDER culinary term term which which means means to to tempt; to pleasant appearance tempt; to attract attract by by the pleasant appearance of of aa dish. dish. AFTER-TASTE. ,mn$nr-co0r -- Taste AFfER-T ASTE. ARRIÈRE-GOÛT Taste that that returns returns to to the the mouth after ingestion of certain foods mouth foods and and beverages. beverages.

AGARIC AGARIC -- A A family family of of fungi fungi with with aa compact compact cap cap and and radiatradiating gills, that grows profusely profusely in places, ing gilIs, that grows in damp damp and and shaded shaded places, and and isis also also found found in in fields, fields, on on tree tree trunks, trunks, in in caves caves and and on on decayed decayed wood. wood. There There are are about about 2000 known species 2000 known speciesof of agarics quite aa large agarics and and quite large number number of are edible. of them them are edible. The The poisonous poisonous species genus called species are are chiefly found among chiefly found among the the genus called Amanita. Amanita. Among Among the the edible edible agarics agarics are are the the following: following: Edible grown inin the Edible agaric agaric or or cultivated cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms, grown the quarries quarries around around Paris Paris -- the the c1assic classic type mushroom. This This type of of mushroom. is is often described under often described term champignon champignon without without any any under the the tenn other qualification. other qualification.

AGAMI (Trumpeter) -- A bird of of the wader wader family family of of which which

the the Guiana agami agami is is typicaJ. typical. Its Its flesh flesh has appreciable merit. has appreciable merit. The The agami agami is is used used in in cookery cookery mainly mainly in in South South America, America, boiled boild in consommé consomm6 or braised with rice. pleasant flavour Its flesh has has a pleasant flavour but is is rather dry, dry, although although less so so in the domesticated domesticated bird.

Agami Agami

àh la chilienne chilienne -- Choose Choose as Agami tr as tender an an agami agami as as posc1ean it. it. Prepare Prepare aa garnish of singe and clean sible. Pluck, draw, singe of rice cooked in fat stock with with pimentos. Bard Bard it put to it and and put to braising pan with with the the usual usual accompaniments accompaniments of braise in a braising of vegetables and and spices, spices, and some sorne dry dry white white wine. wine. vegetables medium-sized braise in in veal veal jelly jelly stock stock 12 Separately, braise 12 medium-sized onions stuffed stuffed with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweet pimentos onions sweet pimentos blended with with a a few few tablespoons of of reduced reduced velouté velouti (q.v.). Prepare also also 450 450 g. g. (l (lIb.) Okra in in tomato tomato sauce sauce (sec, (see OKRA). Prepare lb.) Okra OKRA). As soon soon as as the the agami agami is is cooked, cooked, remove rem ove from the braising braising As from the Glaze itit in in the the oven. oyen. pan. Glaze pan.

A agaric which underside of the cap A type ofagaric which has type of has very very distinctive distinctive ridges ridges on on the the underside ofthe cap

4

AILLADE AILLADE Ingredients. Ingredients. 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., I1cup) cup) sweet sweet almonds' almonds, I1litre litre

Royalagaric, agaric,agaric agaricodorain odorainor or St. St.George's George'sagaric agaricand andthe the Royal cultivatedagaric agaricare arealso also found found ininthe theParis Parisregion' region. cultivated Among the the poisonous poisonous species species are are Amanita Amanita phalloides phalloides Among (death cap) cap) and and Amanita Amanita vernn verna (glll) (gill)(see (seeMUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS) . (death Toprepare prepareedible edibleagarics, agarics, saute sautéininaa shallow shallowpan panininoil oil or or To butter ; dress dress with with herbs, herbs, Creon Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), rià /ala butter; provençale, dà la la bordelarse bordelaise (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). They They can can provmgale, also be be used used as as aa garnish garnish for for aa large large number number of ofdishes. dishes. also

(I~ f,ints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) verjuice, verjuice, tt litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 1tfi Z*hipO 2* cups)waier waterand and 150 150g.g.(5(5oz., oz.,! cup)brown brown or orgranulated granulated I cup)

sugar. sugar. -Method

Method ofofpreparation' preparation. Blanch Blanch the the almonds almonds after after having having scalded scalded them them with with boiling boilingwater. water. Pound Pound them them ininaamortar mortaras as ofthe thewater' water. finely as aspossible, possible, moistening moisteningthem them with with aa little littleof finely When thiy theyform When fonn aapaste, paste,dilute dilutewith with the the rest restof ofthe the water waterand and verjuice putunder under aa press press verjuice and and strain strain through through aa napkin, napkin, then th en put

AGATHON -- Poet, Poet, born born in in Athens, Athens, and and not not in in Samos, Samos, as as AGATHON certain authors authors maintain. main tain. certain sumptuous repasts repasts gave gave rise rise to to aa great great deal deaJ of ofjesting jesting His sumptuous His on the the part part of of Aristophanes Aristophanes and and other other dramatists. dramatists. Some Sorne on Banquet was was composed composed at at his his table. table. people claim claim that that Plato's Plato's Banquet people

to It dl' dl. (t (! pint, pint, !f cup) cup) white white vinegar vinegar to lxtract extract all ail the the liquid. liquid . l+ combined with with I1litre litre (lf (là- pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water water may may combined he substituted substituted for for the the verjuice verjuice and and water. water. be Sweeten the the liquid Iiquid with with the the brown brown sugar' sugar, or' or, ifif this this isis not not Sweeten available, available, granuhted granulated sugar, sugar, and and strain strain through through aa napkin napkin once once again, again, but but this this time time without without pressing. pressing. Stand in an an ice ice bucket, bucket, surrounded surrounded by by aa mixmixStand this this mixture mixture in ture of of crushed cru shed ice ice and and sea sea salt salt (coarse (coarse salt), salt), allowing allowing l0 10 per per ture of salt, salt, and and leave leave to to chill' chilI. Loosen Loosen the the parts parts which which get get cent of cent stuck stuck to to the the sides sides of of the the ice ice bucket bucket about about every every 15 J 5 minutes' minutes. When When the the whole whole mixture mixture acquires acquires aa granulated granulated texture, texture, serve serve it in sherbet sherbet glasses, glasses, adding adding half ha If aa coffeespoon coffeespoon of of kirsch kirsch to to each each glass. glass. AGUAXIMA of Brazilian Brazilian pepper pepper not not very very difdifAGUAXIMA - A A species species of ferent from ordinary ordinary PePPer. pepper. A fruit AGLJNCAIB.lcuNclriAGUNCATE. AGUNCATÉ-A fruit grown grown in in Peru,calledpalta Peru, calledpalta in Lima. Lima. ItIt isis shaped shaped like like aa calabash calabash (gourd), (gourd), is is green green in in colour colour and has has a varniJhed varnished appearance. appearance. Its Its skin skin comes cornes away away from from the flesh easily when the fruit fruit is ripe. ripe. This This flesh, flesh, somewhat somewhat in common common with insipid, is eatCn eaten with salt. It It has something in with (q'v.). of avocado the flesh of avocado Pear pear (g .v.).

of South South American American plants plants belonging beJonging to to AGA VE -- A A genus genus of AGAVE Agavaceae -- aa native native of of Mexico. Mexico. In In Cuba Cuba and and the family family Agavaceae the Mexico its its pulp pulp isis fermented fennented to to make make an an alcoholic alcoholic beverage beverage Mexico pulque. called pulque. called AGNOLOTTI. Agnoloffi Agnolotti ià la la pi6montaise piémontaise (Italian (ltalian cookery) cookery)AGNOLOTTI. Prepare aa noodle noodle paste paste in in the the following following manner: manner: put put 450 450 g. g. Prepare lb., 44 cups) cups) flour flour in in aa circle circle or or 'fountain' 'fountain' on on aa table. table. In In the the (l(I lb., middle of of this tbis circle circle put put 44 egg egg yolks, yolks, 20 20 g. g. (a (a generous generous tabletablemiddle of salt salt and I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant spoon) butter, butter, aa pinch pinch of spoon) cup) water. water. *t cup) Knead for l0 10 minutes minutes but but avoid avoid giving giving too too much much body body to to Knead the paste. paste. Allow Allow to to rest rest for l0 10 minutes. the out the the paste paste with aa rolling-pin rolling-pin as as thinly thinly as possible. possible. Roll out Roll Place walnut-sized walnut-sized pieces pieces of of forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, FORCEMEAT, Place Beefforcemeat) forcemeat) along it in a horizontal line, spacing them Beef 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) from from the the edge edge of the the paste paste and and 5 cm. cm. (2 (2 inches) 5 inches) from from each each other. other. inches) Fold the overIapping over this row of edge of the paste over Fold overlapping edge agnolotti. Press down heap of forcemeat, to each heap around each down around agnolotti. Press make the paste stick the agnolotti with a agnolotti with Cut out out the well. Cut stick weil. the paste make crescent-shaped, pastry-cutter, thus thus obtaining fluted-edged pastry-cutter, crescent-shaped, fluted-edged little little turnovers. turnovers. Poach l0 minutes, minutes, allowing for 10 water for in boiling boiling water them in Poach them 22 teaspoons quart) water. generous quart) (lfà- pints, pints, generous per litre litre (1 salt per teaspoons salt Drain, dish.. place in in aa dish Drain, and and place Make from the left over over from beef left the braised braised beef from the sauca from Make aa sauce forcemeat. with the cheese with grated Pannesan Parmesan cheese and grated Serve this and forcemeat. Serve agnolotti agnolotti..

medica) -(French name for Citr~ Citnrs medica) CDDRE (French AIGRE DE AIGRE DE CÈDRE Dame for Grasse around Grasse in Provence, Provence, around cultivated of a citron tree cultiva Fruit of ted in It Italy. It in Italy. Genoa in near Genoa and near Remo and at San San Remo Nice, also also at and Nice, and drink. summer drink. makes a very refreshing summer cut slice cut thin slice means aa thin An aiguillette aiguillette means AIGUILLETTE -- An game. poultry and winged game. and winged the breast of poultry on the lengthways on describe to describe be used used to only he should only speaking, the word should Slrictly speaking, Strictly thin to thin referring to when used wh often used fowl, but itit isis often slices of fowl, thin slices en referring tbin into aiguillettes' aiguillettes'.. 'cut aa fillet beef into of beef fillet of e.g., 'cut meat, e.g., slices of of meat, slices (see BEEF). BEEF). rump (see top rump the top describe the used to to descrihe is a/so also used Aiguillette is Aiguillette

AGONE Italy itit isis In Italy (Smarh graerlis). graerlis). AGON AcoN -- ln D'ISTRIA (Smaris AGOIYE D'ISTRIA known the has much much the indeed itit has and indeed of sardina sardina and name of the name known under under the same All the the sardine. Ali the sardine. size to to the in size similar in and isis similar flavour and same flavour recipes Like (q.v.) can to it. it. Like applied to be applied can he given for sardines (q.v.) for sardines recipes given sardines, salted.. be salted can be sardines, agone agone can AGORANOME Greece. in ancient ancient Greece. of markets markets in Inspector of AGORANOME -- Inspector He for responsible for produce and was responsible and was price of of produce the price He controlled controlled the the The markets. The to its its markets. laws relating relating to the laws of the the implementation implementation of agoranome the of the aedile of to the the aedile Greeks corresponds corresponds to of the the Greeks agoraiome of Romans. Romans. AGOU small-grain resembles small-grain sd8'o resembles negroes' sago or negroes' AGOU -- Agou Agou or millet. yellow with aa yellow colour with brownish-grey colour grain isisof of brownish-grey Thisgrain millet. This spot made rice. Flour Flour made likerice. cooked like stem.ItIt isiscooked thestem. it joins the spot where where itjoins from porridge. cakesand andporridge. makecakes to make used to from itit isis used AGOUTI (where Brazil(where found ininBrazil hare found sizeof the size ofaahare Rodent the AGOUTI -- Rodent ilit isiscalled and Republic, and Dominican Republic, theDominican Guiana, the calledcotia), cotia), Guiana, generally liveinin canlive The agouti agouti can Indies.The WestIndies. theWest generallythroughout throughoutthe Europe cold. protected from from the thecold. Europeififititisisprotected The rather theflavour flavourisisrather goodtotoeat, though the eat,even eventhough fleshisisgood The flesh strong. (seePORK, pig(see Piglet). PORK, Piglet). preparedlike likesucking suckingpig strong. ItItisisprepared

Agouti Agouti

which France,which ofFrance, southof thesouth usedininthe Definition used AILLADE - - Definition AILLADE (Languedoc or Provence) orProvence) district (Languedoc thedistrict according totothe applies,according applies, garlic allgarlic areaH butare somewhat but differsomewhat preparationswhich which differ totopreparations based. based. (q-v.)' garlicvinaigrette vinaigrette (q.v.), sortofofgarlic santce,aasort ailladesauce, Firstly,ail/ade Firstly, garnishes' othergarnishes. andother chivesand shallots, chives includingshallots, sometimesincluding sometimes

AGRAS more bemore beverage;totobe icedbeverage; anAigerian Algerianiced Agrasisisan AGRAS- - Agras precise, and almondsand arealmonds ingredientsare graniti.Its Itsmain main ingredients precise,aagranité. verjuice. verjuice.

5

AIOLI AÏOLI Aillade sauce sauceisisserved served with withco cold meatand potatoes andfish, fish, with withpotatoes Aillade Id meat generally, with and, generally, with ail alldishes dishes served servedàdlalavinaigrelle. vinaigrette. and, Secondly, bread bread àd l'aillade, I'aillade,aa slice slice of of toasted toasted bread, bread, Secondly, thoroughly rubbed rubbed with garlic and with garlic andsprinkled sprinkled with with olive olive oil. oil. thoroughly provengal aillade This provençal aillade isisthe the equivalent equivalent of the Languedocian of the Languedocian This (garlic-rubbed chapon (garlic-rubbed bread). bread). chapon Certain authors authors also also mention mention other other regional regional preparations preparations Certain known under under the the name name of of aillade. aillade. Among Among these theseare: ari: known Aillade albigeoise albigeoise which which isis nothing nothing more more than than an an aïoli atoli Aillade (q.v.). Aillade d la la toulousaine toulousaine which which isisalso also an anaïoli atoliwithblanched with blanched pounded walnuts and pounded walnuts added. added. and these preparations preparations are are very very appetising but but something something Ali these of-All an acquired acquired taste, taste, garlic being being their outstanding outstanding characcharacof an teristic. Tbey They are are excellent for for seasoning seasoning salads. salads. teristic. AIOLIoT IILLOLI -- Peel Peel4 pound and pound AÏOLI or AILLOU 4 large cloves of garlic, and to aa fine paste in fine paste in aa mortar mortar with I egg yolk. Season Season with with aa to pinch of of salt, salt, and and continue continue to pound, adding 21to pound, (scant 2| dl. dl. (scant generous cup) cup) olive olive oil oil little little by by little, little, as ] pint, generous as for ior mayonmayonnaise. Stir Stir this this mixture mixture vigorously. vigorously. When When finished, finished, itit should should have the the appearance appearance of of aa thick thick smooth smooth m'lyolnn.ais;e. mayonnaise. have Aioli isis served served mainly mainly with with boiled boiled fish, fish, hot or or cold, cold, but but Afoli can also also be be served served with with cold cold meal, meat, or or used used as as aa seasoning seasoning for for can salads and and cooked cooked vegetables. vegetables. salads Garnishod aïoli. aio[. AÏOLI .liou GARNI cARNr -- This This dish, dish, very popular in Garnish.ed Provence, is is composed of of aa variety of of inl~re:dilmt.s, ingredients, such as Provence, boiled cod, cod, snails cooked cooked in in salt water, water, fennel, onions onions boiled stuck withcloves, with cloves, boiled boiled carrots, carrots, french french beans, beans, artichokes artichokes stuck cooked in in salt salt water, water, unskinned potatoes, bard-boiled unskinned potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, eggs, cooked etc. Small Small octopi, boiJed boiled in in salted salted water with herbs, herbs, are are somesomeetc. times added. All these are arranged on aa large dish and and served served with aïoli. aioli. with The preparation of of this this dish, says J. B. Reboul, one J. B. one of the the The maitres provengale, demands aa great cuisine provençale, great deal deal of of maitres de la cuisine artistic arrangement. arrangement. Not Not ail all the ingredients whicb which we we have artistic enumerated, however, are absolutely essential. There is is no no enumerated, however, are set rule point. One on this this point. One should proceed proceed according to to one's set rule on tastes and the tas tes and the means means at one's disposal. Aidi la grecqrre -- A kind of vinaigrette sauce sauce which which is Aïoli ili la A kind prepared combine pounded walnuts, prepared as as follows: combine walnuts, almonds and and soaked in in and hazelnuts hazelnuts with fresh fresh breadcrumbs sieved and milk, pounded garlic. garlic. Blend BJend with oil, vinegar and lemon milk, and and pounded juice. juice. Serve Serve with with fried fried and boiled boiled fish.

Albatross Albatross

ALBUIERA @') - Definition applying to various kinds of ALBUFÉRA dishes chiefly chieflyCh,naictenStxj characterised by the sauce which goes with dishes them. them. Theterm term d'AlbuJéra d'Albufdra was probably first was probably first used usedeither either by by _The Car6me or or by by his his successor successor Plumerey, Plumerey,so Carême sothe the recipefor for Duckling àdlalad'AlbuJéra d'Albufirais almost certainly Duckling is almost certainly the authenticone. one. differs slightly slightly from from the themodem modern version. ItIt differs version. Marshal Suchet Suchet was was made made Duke Duke of Marshal ofAlbuféra Albuf6rainin1812 l812 after after the victories victories of of Oropéza, Orop6za, M Murviedro urviedro and the and Valencia Valenciainin Spain. The lake lake of of Albuféra (See DUCK. Albuf6ra isis near near Valencia. The Valencia. (See cHrcKEN.) CHICKEN.)

ALBUMEN -- AA constituent constituent of ALBUMEN of seeds seeds containing containing food food reserves for plant in for the the plant reserves in germination. Albumen Albumen isissometimes sometimes farinaceous, as as in in cerealssuch such as asmaize, farinaceous, maize, barley, barley, corn corn and and rye; sometimes sometimes oily oily or or fleshy fleshy as rye; as in in coconut palm and coconut palm and in in black black poppy. In In certain palms itit acquires certain palms poppy. acquires the the hardness hardness of of ivory. ivory. The albumen albumen contained contained in The in coconuts coconuts isis in in the the fonn form of of an an layer surrounding outer layer surrounding the outer the inner inner cavity that that contains contains the the liquid commonly commonly known known as liquid ut milk. as cocon coconut

grain or Section of Section a grain corn showing ofa ofcorn showing albumen the albumen the

Many types of grain are are used for for their their albumen albumen in in domestic domestic economy, in medicine and economy, and in in the the arts. cereals provide provide arts. Thus Thus cereals us with with flour; us flour; the the coffee coffee shrub shrub wüh with an an alkaloid known known as as caffeine; the the black poppy with black poppy poppyseed oil, with poppyseed oil, used used almost almost unlve:rSélllv universally as as aa food. food. The The seeds seeds of certain species of of waterwaterlilies, very pleasant to the palate, lilies, palate, are much much used in Cbina and China and Vietnam as as food. The kernels of a species grows species of pine that grows in in Provence Provence and and Italy contain contain an an oily, oily, delicately flavoured albumen, which makes them much valued valued in in confectionery, confectionery, particularly in the manufacture manufacture of sugared pine nuts. nuts. Several Several species species of of palm tree provide provide both edible oil and and oil for lighting. Linseed Linseed oil oil cornes ing. comes from the seeds seeds of flax. species of A species of dwarf dwarf palm, found produces aa large found in Peru, produces cabezo de fruit which the natives call call cana or cabezo de negro. negro, When is green, the tbe albumen'of albumen· of its its seeds the fruit is the seeds is is aa pleasanttasting liquid which, when fermented, yields aa wine that that is is mu ch appreciated by the the Peruvians. The fruit, when wh en ripe, much The fruit, ripe, be put put to the the same same uses uses as ivory; becomes very hard and can be as ivory; in fact fact itil is is exported under under the the name name of of raw raw ivory or vegetable in or vegetable ivory. When When burned, burned, the the product product obtained obtained compares compares ivory. obtained from from eleelefavourably with ivory black, which is obtained phants' teeth teeth and and tusks. phants'

AISY left over from the AISY - Name Name given given to the (soured) (soured) whey !eft scalding scalding of of milk milk used used in in the production prod uction of Gruytre. This whey whey is is used used to to make cheeses cbeeses of an an inferior quality called serai.The serai. The aisy aisy is is stored stored in barrels and added to daily &s more whey whey becomes becomes available. ALARIA of seaweed of which five five species are ALARIA - A A genus genus of found in the the seas seas ofnorthern of northern Europe. Europe. found in One One variety, variety, known known as as badderlocks badderIocks in in Scotland Scotland and murlins murlins in in Ireland, Ireland, flourishes flourishes along along the the Atlantic Atlantic coast coast of of the British British Isles. Isles. It It is is eaten eaten in Scotland, in lreland, Ireland, and in the Faroe Faroe Islands. Islands.. Only Only the the slightly sligbtly sweet central central cartilaginous cartilaginous vein is consumed. consumed. vein is

ALBACORE ALBACORE (Yellowfin (YeLlowfin tura) tuBa) -- A A large large species of tunny tunny (tuna) (tu na) fish. fish. This This isis also also the the Portuguese Portuguese word word for for the the swordswordfish fish (q.v.). (q.v.).

ALBARELLE of edible edible fungi fungi which which grows grows on on ALBARELLE -- A A genus of chestnut chestnut trees trees and and white poplars. poplars.

ALBUMIN. ALBUMIN.

ALBUMINE - Viscous whitish matter matter with with aa ALBUMTNE whitish - Viscous slightly salty salty taste. taste. An example is is white white of of egg, egg, which which conconslightly 59 per per cent cent of ofits i18 total total weight weight (see (see EGGS). EGGS). tains albumin albumin up up to to 59 tains A}bumin is is also also found in ln blood blood serum, serum, in in milk milk and and in in Albumin of dried dried vegetables. It It is is for for plants, particularly in in the the seeds seeds of plants, this reason reason that that the water water in in which which peas, peas, beans and and lentils lentils this

ALBATROSS. ALBATROSS. lrs.{rnm ALBATROS -- Sea Sea bird bird with with very tough tough flesh. flesh. That That ofthe of the young young bird bird isis eaten, eaten, nevertheless, nevertheless, and isis prepared prepared like like Wild Wild &tck duck (see (see DUCK). DUCK). ALBIGEOISE ALBIGEOISE-- Garnish Garnish for for large large and and small small cuts cuts of ofmeat. meat. It It consists consists of ofstuffed stuffed tomatoes tomatoes and and potato potato croquettes. croquettes. 6

ALCAZAR ALCAZAR in and brown them them in onions and pimentos and Method. Slice Slice the onions Method. garlic. Sprinkle stir, with flour, flour, stir, Sprinkle with slightly crushed crushed garlic. butter. Add slightly (which has has been meat (which been and add add the the meat lightly, and to brown brown lightly, allow to Add the the egg egg and and and seasoning. seasoning. Add minced), breadcrumbs, and minced), water, of the stock stock or or boiling boiling water, well. Moisten with aa little of blend weil. quarter of an hour. hour. for aa quarter of an and leave leave to to sim simmer and mer for pastry into aa pastry still hot, hot, into mixture, while while still Put this this forecemeat forecemeat mixture, Put saucepan ring. Hold Hold the the bag bag over over aa saucepan forcing-bag fitted fitted with aa ring. small slices slices of of the the squeeze; cut cut off off small stock and and squeeze; of boiling boiling stock of quenelles the bag. bag. Sim Simmer these quenelles of the sausage as it it cornes comes out out of mer these sausage,as pan. lid off leaving the the lid off the the pan. in the boiling stock stock leaving in in butter, butter, and and add add them them soften them them in Chop the the tomatoes, tomatoes, soften Chop just before served. is served. to the the soup soup just before itit is to

Albumin is are cooled. Albumin are cooked cooked becomes becomes viscous viscous when when cooJed. soluble in water in its raw state but coagulates coagulates at aa temperaand then becomes insoluble. ture of 78-80°e. 78-80'C. (172-176"F.) (l72-l76°F.) and Albumin in the form of of aa thin yellowish transparent sediment can be obtained by evaporating the white of egg egg at at a the white (122"F.). temperature of about 50°e. 50'C. (l22°F.). Albumin is used in the confectionery confectionery industry as as aa substitute for white of egg in the manufacture manufacture of certain kinds of of liquorice, Montélimar Montelimar whisked pastes pastes such as marshmallow, whisked marshmallow, liquorice, nougat and various meringue products. as an It is also an egg egg substitute in in the the manufacture manufacture of of also used used as cheap biscuits and almond paste. Before use it has has to be disId water. cold solved in about seven times its weight of co Albumin in the form of beaten whites of egg is used in the clearing of of wine.

ALBUMINOIDS. ALBUMINOïDES -- Substances ALBUMINOIDS.,c,rnuMNoioEs Substances possessing properties akin albumin (coagulable by by heat), akin to to those those of albumin proteinic substances. also called nitrogenous, quaternary or proteinic They exist in animal or vegeveg€all living organisms, organisms, whether animal in ail table. Chemical analysis same four four basic basic elements: elements: analysis reveals the same carbon, hydrogen, oxygen in varyoxygen and and nitrogen nitrogen associated in ing quantities with other elements. Albuminoids constitute of ttre essential elements elements of constitute one one of the our the only only our diet. diet. Of all the the substances we we generally eat, eat, the Of aU ones lacking in albuminoids albuminoids are those which have undergone undergone an industrial purifying process su ch as sugar. such as oil oil and and sugar. ln In dietetics, dietetics, an an increased increased ration ration of of albuminoids albuminoids is is ococcasionally prescribed (in cases of malnutrition, etc.) but more casionally prescribed more frequently the is reduced albuminoids in the the diet diet is the amount of albuminoids prowhen, for for example, the kidneys fail fail to to eliminate eliminate waste procxample, the ducts transform them. ducts or the liver is unable to transform Without going to reproducing specialist specialist Without going to the the extent extent of of reproducing tables possible to divide albuminoid or or tables of of analyses, analyses, itit is is possible to divide nitrogenous food food into four categories: categories: Very po or in (less than green vegepoor in albumins albumins (less than 1I per cent): cent): green tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, cream, cream, butter, butter, honey, sugar, oils. Poor (up (up to green cabspinach, artichokes, green cabto 66 per cent): cent): spinach, bages, Brussels uts, green peas, cocoa, green peas, cocoa, chestnuts, Biussels sprouts, bages, sprouts, chestn chocolate. Rich (6 to per cent): Rich (6 cereals, noodles, to 12 12 per cent): bread, bread, Bours, flours, cereals, eggs. eggs. Very (I2 to per cent): hazelVery rich rich (12 cent): walnuts, walnuts, almonds, almonds, hazelto 30 30 per nuts, peas, lentils, dried peas, lentils, various meats, nuts, various meats, fish, fish, dried dried beans, beans, dried beans, peas, cheeses. beans, chick peas, cheeses.

(Water cooler). ALCARRAZA The French French cooler). ALCARAZAS ALcARAZAS -- The ALCARRAZA (Water have the Spanish, Spanish, who who in in turn turn from the have borrowed borrowed this this word word from (pitcher). In borrowed itit from alkourraz (pitcher). In Egypt, Egypt, from the the Arabic Arabic alkourraz 'the alcarraza the has become the French French become the this has bardak; this called bardak; alcarraza isis called probably barclague balasse. Bardak Bardak isis aa Turkish Turkish word word probably bardague and and balasse. stemming bara, meaning meaning to to cool, cool, and and root bara, stemming from from the the Arabic Arabic root (meaning, like from like alcarraza, frorn which barradn (meaning, alcarraza, aa which isis derived derived barrada vessel vessel for liquids) and and the the Spanish word albarrada. albarrada. for cooling cooling liquids) Spanish word jugs of These porous, unglazed various shapes shapes are are filled filled These porous, unglazed jugs of various with shade in in aa draught. The water water with water water and and hung hung in in the the shade draught. The jug and oozes pores of The of the the jug and evaporates. evaporates. The through the the pores oozes through hotter air, the the hotter the the outside temperature and and the the drier drier the the air, outside temperature quicker quicker the heat necessary necessary for for evaporation evaporation the evaporation. evaporation. The The heat jug, which isis extracted frorn the liquid inside inside the the jug, which isis thus thus extracted from the liquid cooled. eooled.

ALBUNDIGAS - The (Mexican cookery) ALBUNDIGAS (M~xican cookery) The originof origin of albundigas appears to In Mexico Mexico itit to be be Spanish Spanish or or Mexican. In is is almost aa national national dish. Combine (l lb.) g. (l Ib.) finely finely choppedfillet Combine 450 450 g. chopped fillet of of beef beef and and 100 (a oz.) g. (4 100 g. oz.) fairly coarsely coarsely chopped chopped fat fat bacon. Season with with bacon. Season salt and pepper. Add aa little garlic and pepper.Add little crushed and aa teaspoon of of crushed garlic chopped parsley, and into thickish chopped parsley, and bind with an an egg. egg. Shape Shape into cakes. an ovenproof dish and and cakes. Fry in clarified butter. Put Put into ovenproof dish into an coyer for 20 20 minutes. sauce. Cook the oyen oven for minutes. in the cover with with tomato tomato sauce. Cook in Serve (see RICE). Rice àd la criole (see Serve with Rice la créole RICE). Albundigas Albundigas can frorn aa mixture mixture of of veal veal and and can also also be be made made from pork. The me : The Mexicans also also have have aa soup soup called called by this na name: by this Ingredients. (5f pints, pints, 6t pints) light light stock Ingredients. For For 33 litres litres (st stock or or 6| pints) water, take 225 g. (8 oz.) g. (8 pork, veal veal or mediumtake225 oz.) fiUet fillet of of pork, or beef, beef, 55 mediumsized peeled and garlic,44 green green pimentos, pimentos, 33 peeled and sized onions, onions, aa clove clove of of garlic, deseeded (2 oz., g. (2 tablespootts oz., tI cup) deseeded tomatoes, 50 g. cup) butter, butter, 22 tablespoons tomatoes, 50 (3 (3 tablespoons) amount of of sieved flour, the sieved the same tablespoons) wheat wheat ftour, same amount breadcrumbs, or, better better still, still, or thyme, thyme, or, breadcrumbs, I teaspoon teaspoon coriander coriander or marjoram, and 1I egg and more delicate delicate Bavour, flavour, 1I egg marjoram, which which has has aa more tablespoon tablespoon salt. salt.

paste ALCAZAR (Pâtisserie) - Line Lining paste with Lining Line aa sponge tin with sponge tin ALCAZAR(PSfisserie)(see (see DOUGH). with 22 tabletableand spread spread with Prick the the bottom bottom and DOUGH). Prick jam. Fil spoons (3 tablespoons) Fill1 three-quarters of apricot jam. three-quarters of spoons (3 tablespoons) apricot the following mixture: the tin tin with with the the following mixture: g oz., Ingredients. g. (4 icing sugar, sugar, 44 egg egg whites, 125 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) icing whites, Ingredients. 125 60 (2 oz., (2 oz., g. (2 gtound almonds, almonds, 60 60 g. oz., tI cup) cup) Bour, flour, cup) ground ffi g.e.Q oz., tI cup) 25 g. (l melted butter, kirsch. 25 g. oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted butter, kirsch. Q oz., Method whites preparation. Beat and the the egg egg wrutes Beat the the sugar sugar and Method of of preparation. en add over .over gentle ground gentle heat firm meringue, meringue, th then add ground heat to to obtain obtain aa firm almonds, half aa finally, melted melted butter butter mixed mixed with with half almonds, Bour flour and, and, finally, wine kirsch. Spread glass of and Boured floured baking baking wine glass ofkirsch. Spread on on aa buttered buttered and sheet. (350'F., Gas Bake in sheet. Bake in the the {)ven at 180°e. 180"C. (350°F., Mark 4) 4) for for Gas Mark 'oven at 50 minutes and and turn out onto onto aa wire wire tray. tray. 50 to to 60 6O minutes tum out Fit pipe, and piping-bag with and fill fill with with unFit aa cloth cloth piping-bag with aa ftuted fluted pipe, uncooked paste in proportion of in the 450 g.g. (l(l lb.) lb.) to to cooked almond almond paste the proportion of 450 450 (l lb.) (see (see ALMOND, paste 1). g. (lIb.) 450 g. 1). Pipe latticeALMOND, Almond Almond paste Pipe aa latticework pastry, then pipe aa border. in aa hot work over Place in hot oyen oven over the the pastry, then pipe border. Place to our the jam paste. Coyer with thick thick apricot to col colour almond paste. apricot jam the almond Cover with and a pistachio each lozenge. put half pistachio nut lozenge. in the and put halfa nut in the centre centre of ofeach As paste border As an an alternative an almond almond paste apricot alternative to to an border use use apricot jam jam sprinkled sprinkled with chopped roasted roasted almonds. almonds. with chopped

Alcarazza Alcarazza

t

7

ALCOHOL ALCOHOL ALCOHOL. ALCOOL ALcooL - - Liquid Liquid obtained obtained by by distilling distilling ferferALCOHOL. mented liquors. liquors. mented In chemistry, chemistry, ail all organic substances composed organic substances composed of of carbon, carbon, ln hydrogen and and oxygen, oxygen, capable capable of of being being combined combined into into an an hydrogen acid to to form form an an ether, ether, are are defined defined as as alcohol. alcohol. We We shall shall deal deal acid only with with ethyl ethyl alcohol alcohol or or wine wine alcohol, alcohol, also alsocalled called wine wine only spirit. ItIt isis the principal product product of the principal of the the fermentation fermentation of of sweet sweet spirit. liquids formed formed by by the the double double decomposition decomposition of ofglucose under liquids glucose under yeast. This the action action of of yeast. This microscopic microscopic vegetable vegetable cell cell reproreprothe duces itself itself by glucose into by splitting splitting glucose into carbonic carbonic acid acid and and duces palatable and alcohol and and aa few few palatable and sweet-smelling sweet-smelling by-products. by-products. alcohol (See BEER, BEER, WINE.) WINE.) (See

mentco-ordination, co-ordination, congestion congestion of of the theface, face,overpowering overpowering ment drowsiness; Third Third degree: degree.'Loss Lossof of mobility, mobility, sensitiveness sensitiveness drowsiness; and will. will. and Acuteintoxication intoxication -- Early Earlysymptoms symptoms the 2.2. Aeute thesame same as asinin period of inebriety, but the period but the ofexcitation excitation isisvery veryshort, short, resulting inebriety, resulting quickly ininsomnolence, somnolence, which which can can develop developinto quickly into aacoma coma and and evendeath death through through cerebral pulmonarycongestion. cerebral or or pulmonary even congestion. Chronic alcobolism alcoholism -- Repeated Repeated abuse abuseof of alcoholic alcoholic 3.3. Chronie produces Jesions liquids produces lesions of (gastritis), of of the the stomach stomach (gastritis), liquids of the the liver (cirrhosis), of (nephritis), and of the the kidneys kidneys (nephritis), and of ofthe the nervous liver(cirrhosis), nervous (delirium, neuritis). system (delirium, neuritis). system

AIfi -- English English beer, lightly hopped beer, lightly hopped and and slightly stightly bitter. ALE bitter. ItIt isis used in in cooking cooking for for making making various various cheese cheese dishes, used dishes, notably notably (q.v.). for Welsh Welsh rarebit rarebit (q.v.). for Ale isis obtained obtained by by rapid rapid fermentation fermentation and Ale and acquires acquires strength on on maturing; maturing; fermented fermented small small beer, strength beer, on on the the other other hand, has has only only aa short life. Stout short life. porter are Stout and and porter hand, are brewed brewed from from grain; ale roasted grain; ale isis made grain in from grain made from in its its natural roasted natural state. state. used to to be be aa tradition tradition in in wealthy ItIt used wealthy English English families families to to celebrate the birth birth of of aa son son by by filling filling one celebra te the one or or more more barrels barrels of of ale, specially specially brewed brewed for for the the occasion. occasion. The ale, The barrels barrels were were hermetically sealed sealed and and not not opened opened until hermetically until the the son son and and heir heir reached his his majority. majority. On On this this memorable reached memorable day day -- called called the the 'coming of of age' age'friends, tenants tenants and and servants 'coming - friends, servants were invited were invited great repast, to aa great repast, which which concluded concluded with passing round to with the the passing round of of the splendid splendid twenty-one-year-old twenty-one-year-old ale. the ale. posset -- Heat Ale posset (lf pints, Heat 1I litre pints, generous litre (I~ generous quart) Ale quart) ale ale with with pinch ofpowdered little sugar, sugar, aq pinch of powdered gingerand ginger and grated grated nutmeg. aa little nutmeg. (l| pints, Boil 1I litre pints, generous litre (l~ generous quart) quart) unskimmed milk Boil milk and and mix it, it, while while still still boiling, boiling, with mix with the the ale. ale. Toast and and ale ale -- An An English Toast English beverage which which used used to to be be served in in win winter, after the the dinner, dinner, at served ter, after at the the same same time time as as the the cheese. Method. Bring (lf pints, generous quart) old Bring 1I litre (li Method. ale, to to old ale, which aa coffeespoon coffeespoon of ginger has which has been added, to been added, to the the boil. jug with Pour it, it, whilst whilst almost almost boiling, into aa jug boiling, into Pour with aa metal metal lid lid containing a thick slice slice of bread toasted on both sides. containing sides. Leave the ale to to stand stand for aa short time before serving.

Microscopic cells cells inducing inducing Microscopie alcoholic fermentation fermentation alcoholic

produced by Alcohol isis produced juices by fermenting fermenting natural natural sweet sweet juices Alcohol (grapes, apples, apples, sugar sugar cane, cane, beetroot, beetroot, etc.) etc.) or or amyloide amyloide (grapes, musts, which which have have been preliminary fermentasubjected been su to preliminary musts, bjected to tion which which transforms transforms the the starch glucose. Wort starch into into glucose. Wort of of tion (beer), potatoes, cereals (beer), potatoes, etc. etc. are are used. cereals The distillation distillation of these musts musts and produces spirits of these and worts produces The (q.v.); the the concentration concentration and and rectification rectification of of these these spirits (q.v.); produces industrial alcohols. alcohols. produces industrial per cent Absolute 100 per cent alcohol alcohol is product; it is is aa laboratory laboratory product; Absolute 100 a which boils 78.3'C. Because of of its its high a caustic caustic liquid, liquid, which boils at at 78·3°C. water absorption potentiality potentiality it it must must be be treated with with great water absorption caution. caution. (medicinal) 95' Officinal Officinal (medicinal) 95° alcohol alcohol is is aa colourless, mobile, non-residual and a pleasant odour odour and non-residual liquid, liquid, volatile, volatile, with with a a pleasant burning 79.9"C.It burning taste; taste; itit boils boils at at 79·9°C. It can be be mixed mixed with with water water in all ail proportions, proportions, with with contraction contraction (that (that is is to to say, say, the the total volume of the the mixture mixture is is lower lower than that of of the components) components) volume of and and with with emission emission of of heat. heat. 85' 85° alcohol alcohol is is commonly commonly called called 'three-six' 'three-six' (trois-six) (trois-six) because because three three parts parts of of this this alcohol, alcohol, mixed mixed with with an an equal quantity quantity of of pure pure water, water, produce produce six parts of of ordinary eaueaude-vie. de-vie. Alcohol Alcohol possesses possesses antiseptic antiseptic properties; properties; it it is a diffusible diffusible stimulant stimulant which which has has numerous numerous uses uses in in therapeutics. therapeutics. In ln its its chemical chemical composition composition alcohol alcohol approaches sugars sugars (l(1 molecule molecule of of glucose glucose is is split, split, by by fermentation, fermentation, into into 22 molecules molecules of of alcohol). alcohol). It It possesses possesses definite but but moderate moderate alimentary alimentary properties, properties, because because itit decomposes decomposes too too quickly quickly in the the organism, organism, and and the the energy energy released released can can only only be be used used to to aa small small degree, degree, mainly mainly because because itit becomes becomes aa toxic toxic substance substance when when taken taken in in large large doses doses (see (see ALCOHOLISM). ALCOHOLISM).

ALECTRYON -- A large tree A large ALECTRYON tree of of which which the the best-known found in New Zealand. species is found Zealand. Its red red berries, berries, much Its prized for much prized pleasant acid for their their pleasant acid flavour, are usd used in the manufacture manufacture of refreshing beverages. beverages. An excellent oil is extracted from its seeds (and exported).

ALEMBIC. ALEMBIC.

-

ALAMBTc ALAMBIC

Apparatus used for Apparatus used for distilling. distilling. It

comprises comprises a cucurbit, or tinned copper boiler, with or withoutaa bain-marue, out bain-marie, surmounted by byaa cap with with a serpentine, serpentine, i.e., a tin, or tinned copper, spiral coil coilleading leading from it.

Old·fashioned alembic alembic Old-fashioned

ALCOHOLISM. ALCOHOLISM. arcoolrsME ALCOOLISME -- Intoxication Intoxication produced produced by by the of liquids liquids containing containing alcohol. alcohol. There There are are three three the abuse abuse of

distinct forms: distinct forms: l.1. Inebriety Inebriety -- Occurring Occurring when wh en alcohol alcohol reaches reaches aa certain certain degree, degree, variable variable with with individuals, individuals, manifesting manifesting itself itself in in the the following manner: First First degree.. degree: Sensation Sensation of of well-being, well-being, following manner: stimulation stimulation of of the the intellectual intellectual faculties facuIties and and the the imagination, imagination, slight slight swelling swelling of of the the face; face; Second Second degree: degree: Mental Mental inincoherence, diminution of of muscular muscular strength, strength, lack lack of of movemovecoherence, diminution 8

ALGERIA ALGERIA species-of chopped. This makes them easier to use' Various chopped.are This makes them easier to use. Various kombu' of manufacture the in base a as used iurniiuti" laminaria used asvegetable a base infor thesoup manufacture or mixed with rice as a used it thenare ;hi;h which is then used as a vegetable for or mixed wiili rice for example' seasoned with soy sauce. bther species, kanten seasoned with soy sauce. Olher for example, are used inpdtisserie and confectionery' interest are în pâtisserie and \"VJlU'-·"'''Vlll..' algae are not simply a culinary expedient' and Butused in the But algae areconfine-d not simply culinary expedient, andinterest countries; Eastern to aFar not in1t.*"i, food in themofis the not experts, confinedthey to Far Eastern acountries; the valuable in constitute opinioo opinion of the experts, they constitute a valuable food resource for the future. resouree future. that chlorella, microscopic freshwater way thisthe ir in for ft which, is in lhis wayfavourable that ch/orella, microscopie rreshwaler themreproduce conditions, undei aljae which, under favourable conditions, themsave our planet one day reproduce rapidity, may astonishing r.iu.t *ittt planet with astonisrung save our to write: E. and A. N".g.te have good reason itorn fu*ioe. proved from famine. E. and A.of liboratory animals reason write: :L;;;;;;laifeeding has to 'Experimental feedîng of and energy animaIs proved chlorellae. value of has thJ food any doubt GVirO lipic and the food and value of chlorellae. beyond any doubt are rich in proteinic, that chlorellae iii""pp"r.nt It is that chlorellae areacceleraled cultivation will and and that substances, vitaminised It is vlt:amml:sed substances., and that will supplement' important-nutritional an with man provide provide man with an important nutritional supplement. H is with that cultivation traditional of replacing ; qr;iion replacing Iraditional with that not a question in the exploitation in usefuleultivation maylome lattir but the of but theinlaarid tter may come in zones'' usefuJ in the exploitation or semi-arid of so-lar'energy globe energy in arid or semi-arid zones.' This meani that the underprivileged peoples of thc Trusreceive means their that the underprivileged of elements the globe and trace quota of vitamins peoples could receive their quota of vitamins and trace elements "o"n which at present they entirely lack' which at present they entirely Jack.

Theliquidtobedistilledisputdirectlyintotheboiler(in The liquid to be distilled is put directly into the boiler (in thqcase naked-flamealembic), alembic),ororonontop topofofthe,bain' the hainthe caseofofa ilnaked-flame The it.il.The marie mariethatforms that formspart partofof Thealembic alembicis isthen thenheated' heated. The pass into the a"tioo actionofof theheatieleases heat relcasesalcoholic alcoholicvapours' vapours.These These pass into and il;;.t,tn. the serpentine(*tti"tt (whichisÎscooled cooledby byflowing flowingwater)' water), and heat the condense.The Thetiaditional traditionalCharente Charentemethod methodwas wastota heat the "ond.rrr.. alembics overwood woodfires. fires.The Thefirst firs!liquid liquidobtained' obtained, alembicsdirectly over through le /ebrouillis brouil/is-rn.rik hadtotobeheredistilled redistilledbybypassing passingit it through - -hud the thealembic alembiconce oncemore. more. in the AAnumber numberofofimprovements improvementshave havcbeen beenincorporatedincorporated in the oh-fashionedalembictoenablealcoholtobeobtainedatthe old-fashioned alembic to enable alcohol to he oblained at the of the nrtt and to to ensure ensure continuous continuous feeding feeding of the first attempt, and "tt.-pt, apparatus. .apparatus. Traditionalists Tradîtionaiisisinsist, insist, however, however, that thatthese theseimprovements tt""" 'boiler taste' taste' and and yield inferior inferior have onfy only increased increased the the 'boiler

ii

re~iUlts. results.

as distilInIn industry, industry, more morecomplicated complicated apparatus, apparatus, such such as distilling lingtowers towerswith with rectifiers, rectifiers,etc., etc., are areused' used.

;;i ;i;G;,

ALGAE.ALGuE_Plantswhichliveinwater.Thenutritive ALGAE. ALGUE - Plants which live in water. The nutritive m919 n"tu. value of of algae isis indubitable, indubitable, and and has has generally generally been been more the 1914 ;;G".ly proved proved than than that that of of fungi' fungi. During During the 1914

war, wu, these theS
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the walls, windows and doors of Moslem houses, a symbol the walls, windows and doors of Moslem hou ses, is aissymbol of power and has an historical significance. of power and has an historical significance. Moses, having changed his rod into a serp€nt, showed cbanged his rod into a serpent, showed hishis ,Moses, having Pharaoh,as as bear witness po*.r.-fn. 114^tl hand to Pharaoh, if if to to bear witness to to hishis power. Tbe faithful th's adopted the symbol of the hand of Moses faithful thus adopted the symbol of the hand of Moses as as a a protection from the evil eye. protection from the evil rigid period of fasting, Ramadan, prescribed of thethe Ramadan, is is pre:scrlbf:d A y1ry .-A ror a,, Mosrems during alr daylight hours of the.n^ti.. month hours of the month of Ramadan, which is the ninth-month of the fvfonammeOan month of the Mohammedan year. year. The word Ramadan comes from a verb meaning rain, The word Ramadan cornes from a verb meaning totorain, because washes away the sins of the flesh and .t.""nr", away the sins of the flesh and cleanses thelt. because it itwashes heartofofitsits.rn.nllf·,tll'r:sq(§#).~~

... .-.

alelo,le de Sambre

Cheese I(om Marville Marville CheeseJrom lamb Calves' Calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads. Andouilles If Trout. cravfisherayiish, BCtlses, Biscuits Trout, ! Avesnes.'rom Helpe. Che~se rom pe. Hel C h-e.ese Avefrreraf Irom Marv,lIeana from Maruille anb Maroilles ,9

•

+

RQo"

PICARD PICARD Y Y Gastronomic Gaslronomie map map of ofArtois Artois and and Boulonnais Boulonnais

52 52

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ASPARAGUS ing ing purposes purposes these these fall fall into into several several main main types; types: French French asparagus, wbich the the best best known known and and most most delicious delicious is is asparagus, of which

and Far Far East East use use itit as as aa condiment. condiment. The The Romans Romans added added itit and many dishes dishes under under the the name name of of sylphium sylphium or or silphion. silphion. to many to

Argenteuil Argenteuil asparagus; asparagus ; Italian !talian asparagus asparagus or or purple purple Genoa Genoa asparagus asparagus;; white white Belgian Belgian asparagus asparagus;; white white German German asparagus' asparagus. There is also also green green asparagus, which is is sub-divided sub-divided into into two two types: asparagus types: small, used used for for garnishes garnishes and and known known as as asparagus tips, and large, which which is prepared prepared llke like Argenteuil Argenteuil asparagusasparagus. Early asparagus asparagus can be found in in France from from February February onwards, and is usually usually sold at high prices. priees. Method Method of of preparation. preparation. This is simple. Scrape, Scrape, or or better better still, peel peel the the asparagus, asparagus, wash wash and and tie tie into into medium-sized medium-sized salted water; water; of boiling bundles, and cook in aa fairly full pan pan of boiling salted bundles, and quart) generous quart) allow allow l| 1t teaspoons teaspoons salt per per litre litre (lf (1 t pints, pints, generous is cooked, drain the water. When When it it is the asparagus thoroughly thoroughly or on aa special and arrange arrange on a dish covered covered with a napkin, napkin, or which is equipped with aa flat asparagus fiat strainer. asparagus dish which depend20 minu minutes, The cooking cooking period varies varies ffrom rom 18 to 20 tes, dependnot be It should not ofthe ing on the size and nature of the asparagus. It be and tasteless. tasteless. it watery and overcooked, as as this renders it little becomes season asparagus bec Note. At the end of the season ornes aa !ittle short time water for for aa short fresh water into fresh and should be bitter, and be put into it has been cooked. Drain thoroughly. after il sauces. with various various sauces. served with Hot or cold asparagusis asparagus is served or cold Hot running is to be served served cold, it should be left under aa running When it is When tap to cool.

ASBESTOS. AMIANTE AMIANTE -- Fibrous Fibrous mineral mineraI substance substance which which ASBESTOS. is found found in in eruptive eruptive rocks. rocks. Asbestos Asbestos fibres fibres are are sufficiently sufficiently is to be be plaited plaited and and woven. woven. The The principal principal characteristic characteristic flexible to flexible ofasbestos its incombustibility; incombustibility; aa piece piece of ofasbestic asbestic material material of asbestos isis its put put into into ablazingfire a blazing fire will will not not burn. burn. The properties properties of asbestos asbestos are are exploited exploited nowadays nowadays for for The kitchen stoves. stoves . Asbestos, Asbestos, being being a a bad bad the interiors interiors of kitchen the conductor, does not not absorb absorb heat. beat. Unlike metal, it it reflects reflects conductor, by radiation, radiation, and and the the maximum maximum of of heat heat is is obtained obtained with the by of fuel, fuel, which results results in a considerable saving of minimum of minimum expense. expense. ASCALAPHUS - He was was Pluto's Pluto's cook cook and the the guardian guardian of ASCALAPHUSaccording to to legend. legend. This This position position of of confidence Proserpine, according brought him him misfortune, for for he he incurred incurred the the enmity enmity of brought Ceres. Jupiter Jupiter had had agreed to return return Proserpine to Ceres, her Ceres. condition that that the the girl had eaten nothing during du ring mother, on condition mother, the infernal infernal regions. regions. Ascalaphus revealed revealed her sojourn in the her while that Proserpine had eaten six grains of pomegranate while she was there, and Ceres turned him into an owl because of she this indiscreet revelation. revelation. Minerva, to to console him him in in his this misfortune, took him bim under her protection. protection. misfortune, FRÊNE -- The young shoots shoots of of this tree can be eaten in a ASH. rn6Ns salado The seeds seeds are sometimes sometimes preserved. preserved. salad. FRÉNETTE -- An An economical drink which is drink which ASHDRINK. rn6Nerrp be health-giving. health-giving. Its basis is ash leaves, and the recipe said to be as follows: is as g. (lf oz.) Boil 75g. (3 oz., and 55 55 g.(li ash leaves and 75 g. (3 oz., 3 cups) ash

(5| pints, pints, 6!pints) water. roasted water. In in 33 litres litres (Si 6| pints) roasted chicory chicory in (5+ lb.) another 40 g. lb.) sugar and 40 2i kg. sugar and vessel dissolve kg. (51 another vessel dissolve 2-!(3j pints, 4 (I-!(l\ oz.) 4| pints) water. oz) citric acid in 2 litres (3-!(l oz.) g. (1 then add 25 g. Mix the two liquids, leave to cool; oz.) add25 cool;then yeast dissolved Add the whole into aa barrel. Add dissolved in water. Pour the enough water to make 50 (l I gallons, 14 l4 gallons) and and 50 litres (II leave to fennent 12 days. ferment for for 12 Bottle the liquid, corking the in and store store in the bottles tightly, and aa cool cool place. The drink is of certain amount amount of lemonade with aa certain of lemonade is a kind of alcoholic content. content. ASHES. combustion. Various Residue after after combustion. cENDRES -- Residue ASHES. CENDRES foods fire, notably notably ashes of wood fire, in the the ashes of aa wood cooked in are cooked foods are chestnuts, potatoes and and truffies. truffies. chestnuts, potatoes

asparagus Lauris asparagus,' asparagus/Argenteuil Lauris Argenteuil asparagus

(l+ lb.) g. (Ii lb.) asparagus asparagus about 600 600 g. allow about speaking, allow Generally speaking, Generally (see SA person, served SAUCE). per person, with sauce sauce (see served with per UCE). This should should D'ASPERGEs -- This coNSERVE D'ASPERGES asparagus. CONSERVE Canned Canned asparagus. gathered asparagus. asparagus. freshly gathered with freshly not be attempted except except with be attempted not wash the the but do do not not wash carefully, but and dry dry carefully, the skin skin and Scrape off off the Scrape the as to to have have themall them all the so as ends evenly evenly so asparagus. Cut Cut off offthe the ends asparagus. stalks of of choosing stalks small bundles, bundles, choosing tie into into small same length, length, and and tie same cooking. even cooking. to ensure ensure even same thickness to the me thickness the sa prefor precan be be obtained obtained for asparagus can for asparagus Special Special boilers boilers for the for controlling controlling the with devices devices for are equipped equipped with serving; serving; these these are provided. Fill Fill the boiler, the boiler, basket provided. the boiling boiling basket movement of of the movement given, with water to to which which with water instructions given, according according to to the the instructions boil. Put Put the the per cent to the the boil. added, and and bring bring to salt has has been been added, 88 per cent salt and them up up and standing them into the the basket, basket, standing asparagus bundles bundles into asparagus into the the basket into packing them Lower the the basket too closely. closely. Lower not not packing them too up toto are immersed immersed up bundles are the asparagus asparagus bundles boiler boiler so so that that the minutes. for 33minutes. andboil boil for one-third their length length and one-thirdof of their into the the lower into down lower and drop drop itit down Disengage basket and Disengage the the basket are immersed, immersed, tips are of the theasparagus asparagus tips boiler, sothat two-thirdsof boiler, so that two-thirds minutes. and and boil boil for for another another 33minutes. plunge itit into cold into aa tub tub of ofcold Remove and plunge Remove the the basket basket and jetsof of water water cannot cannot thejets that the care that running running water, water, taking taking care

ASIALIA. in It occurs occurs in of saliva. saliva. It A deficiency deficiency of AsIALIE -- A ASIALIA. ASIALIE certain in certain certain nervous nervous conditions. conditions. certain diseases diseases and and in - Forced ASITIA. Loss of desire for for food. food. ASITIEabstinence. Loss of desire ASITIA. ASITIE Forced abstinence.

ASPARAGUS. genus of Liliaceae, containing containing A genus of Liliaceae, ASPARAGUS. ASPERGE mpnncE -- A more and warm warm found in in temperate temperate and more than than aa hundred hundred species, species, found regions America. of Europe Europe and and America. regions of Asparagus places, grows wild wild in in meadows meadows and and bushy bushy places, Asparagus grows especially great part part of France, as as weil well of France, in sandy sandy soil, soil, over over aa great especially in as Mediterranean the Atlantic Atlantic and and the the Mediterranean as on on sandy sandy coasts coasts on on the sides. sides. In reign vogue during during the the reign In France, France, asparagus asparagus came came into into vogue of grow who was was the the first first to to grow Louis XIV, to Quintinie, of Louis XIV, thanks thanks to Quintinie, who asparagus He was was able supply the the royal royal for Le Roi Soleil. Soleil. He to supply able to asparagus for Le Roi kitchen year round. with asparagus all the the year round. kitchen with asparagus all Asparagus (common asparagus), has been been asparagus), has Asparagus officinalis fficinalis (common widely garden time immemorial immemorial as as aa garden since time widely cultivated cultivated since vegetable. young sprouts, either sprouts, or or shoots, shoots, are are eaten eaten either vegetable. Its Its young whole just the In Spain, i.e., the terminal buds. buds. In Spain, whole or or just the tips, tips, i.e., the terminal young young shoots have long, long, sharp sharp species, which which have shoots of of aa certain certain species, thorns also eaten. thorns on on the the stems, stems, are are also eaten. AA great great number for cookcookasparagus varieties varietiesexist, exist, but but for number of of asparagus 53 53

ASPARAGUS ASPARAGUS damage the theasparagus asparagus tips. tips.Leave Leave ininthis thiswater waterfor forabout about an an damage hour.Drain Drain with greatcare. with great care. hour. Putthe theasparagus asparagusinto jars, placing intocans preserving jars, cansor or preserving placing Put some with heads up and others with heads down. Cover with sorne with heads up and others with heads down. Coyer with water which which has has been been salted salted in in the proportion of the proportion of 300 300g.g. water (11 oz. l| cups) refined salt to l0 litreJ (9 quarts, 1l quarti) (II oz. li cups) refined salt to 10 litres (9 quarts, II quarts) water. water. Cooking time time inin Cooking Cooking time time inin Weight of cans a 115"C: (718"F.) Cooking Weight of cans a 115°C. (238°F.) bain-marie aabain-marie steriliser steriliser 500 g.g. (1(l lb.) lb.) l0 minutes minutes 20 minutes minutes 500 10 20 (2* lb.) I1 kg. ke. (2i l5 minutes minutes 30 minutes minutes lb.) 15 30 (a+ lb.) 2 kg. 20 minutes 40 minutes 2 kg. (41 lb.) 20 minutes 40 minutes

Cnnned green green asparagus porNTss asparagus tips. tips. CONSERVE @NsERvE DE DE POINTES Canned Divide the the asparagus asparagus stalks stalks into into three three - Divide parts: the base, the middle and the tips. parts: the base, the middle and the tips. put the First put (the toughest the bases bases (the toughest parts) parts) into into aa saucepan saucepan of of First salted boiling boiling water water and and boil boil them them for for 22 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the salted middle sections sections and and boil boil for for another another 22 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the tips tips middle and boil boil for for aa third third 22 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain very very carefully. carefully. and Put them jars and them into into cans preserving jars cans or or preserving and coyer cover with with the the Put brine as as in the preceding recipe. same brine same in the preceding recipe. Cooking time time in in Cooking cooking time time in in Cooking weight of of cans cans aa 110° (gT.F.) IIT"c: Weight C. (230°F.) bain-marie aa bain-marie steririser steriliser g. (l lb.) 500 l0 minutes 20 minutes minutes 500 g. (lIb.) 10 minutes 20 (2f lb.) I1 kg. kg. (2i 15 minutes 30 minutes 30 minutes lb.) 15 minutes (a| lb.) 2 kg. kg. (41 lb.) 40 minutes minutes 40 2 Cream of of asparagus asparagus soup soup -- See See SOUP, SOUP, Cream Crearn soups. soups. Cream Aryaragus beaped heaped in in aa croustade croustade àI la ta Carême. Car6me. Br.nssoN Asparagus BUISSON D'AspERGEs EN cRousrADn A u cmtrr,rn Cook the of the tips tips of D'ASPERGES EN CROUSTADE À LA CARÊME -- Cook thick white asparagus asparagus in salted water, thick white in salted water, keeping keeping thern them aa little Coat each Drain and and dry dry on on aa napkin. napkin. Coat each one one little underdone. underdone. Drain in in aspic aspic mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Chill Chili thoroughly thoroughly in in aa refrigerator. refrigerator. Arrange Arrange in in aa low low flan flan shell, shell, made made of of pie pie pastry pastry and and baked baked blind, and half-filled half-filled with with a a salad salad of of green green asparagus asparagus tips tips blind, and and truffes, seasoned with oil and lemon iuice. and trutHes, seasoned with oil and lemon juice.

Asparagus au gratin au gratin Asparagus

D'ASrERGES vERTEs D'ASPERGES VERTES -

Asparagus au gratin. ASPERGES au gratin. AspERcEs AU AU GRATIN GRATTNCook in in salted salted Asparagus - Cook water and and drain drain thoroughly. thoroughly. Arrange Arrange the the asparagus asparagus in in tiers water tiers

in aa fireproof fireproof dish. dish. in Pour Mornay Mornay sauce (seeSAUCE) sauce (see over the the tips tips only. Pour SAUCE) over only. Coyer Cover the rest rest of of the the asparagus asparagus with greaseproof paper. with greaseproof paper. Sprinkle the Sprinkle the sauce sauce with grated Parmesan with grated Parmesan cheese cheese and and melted melted butter, the butter, and brown brown the the tips. tips. Remove Remove the paper before the paper before serving. serving. and Asparagus ài la la milanaise. milanaise. ASPERGES AspERcEs À A LA r,.l MILANAISE Dur,c,Nrusn -Asparagus Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Asparagus au gratin, Proceed au gratin, but omit omit the the Mornay Mornay sauce. sauce. but Asparagus ài la la Mornay. Mornay. ASPERGES AspERGEs À A LA u MORNAY rrlonN,ly -- Another Asparagus name for for Asparagus au gratin. name Asparagus with with noisette noisette butter. butter. ASPERGES AspERcEs AU AU BEURRE Asparagus NoTSETTE -- Cook Cook the asparagus by the usual usual method. Serve NOISETTE Noisette butter (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) separately. separately. Noisette Alternatively, arrange cooked and well-drained well-drained asparagus asparagus Alternatively, arrange in aa dish, and keep it warm in the oyen. oven. Just before serving, in serving, sprinkle it it with with sizzling noisette sprinkle noisette butter. Asparagus polonaise. ASPERGES mpm,cns A Asparagus àI la la polonaise. À rl LA poLoNArsE POLONAISE Proceed described in Proceed as as described in the recipe for Asparagus Asparagus mr au gratin. gratin. Cover Coyer the tips with with chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and parsley. parsley. When pour on When ready ready to to serve, serve,pour on sizzling sizzling Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) in in which freshly grated white breadcrumbs breadcrumbs have have been been fried fried until until light light golden brown. brown. Alternatively, Alternatively, arrange the the asparagus on a a serving serving dish and breadcrumbs separately. separately. and serve serve the butter and breadcrumbs Asparagus soufr6. SOUFFLÉS, Souffii Soufflé of various various souffié. See See SOUFFLES, vegetables.' vegetables. Asparagus Asparagus tips tips for for gardshes. garnisbes. porNTEs POINTES D',q,spERcns D'ASPERGES -Scrape, Scrape, if if necessary, necessary, and and cut cut the the tips tips into into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) (2-inch) lengths; lengths; tie tie into into bundles. bundles. Cook Cook as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Green Green asparagus asparagus tlps. tips. (see (see below). below). IfIf this this garnish garnish is is used used for for hot hot dishes, dishes, the the asparagus asparagus tips tips should he added added at at the the very very last last moment; moment; cook cook them them fiist first should be in in water, water, drain, drain, and and dress dress with with melted melted butter butter or or cream. cream. Asparagus an excellent excellent garnish garnish for for eggs eggs which which have have Asparagus makes makes an been been scrambled, scrambled, lightly lightly boiled, boiled, au au plat, plat, poached poached or or in in an an omelette. omelette. Also Also for for some sorne fish fish dishes, dishes, and and for for meat meat served served in in small small portions portions -- cutlets, cutlets, escalopes, escalopes, noisettes, noisettes, small small fillets, fillets, tournedas, tournedos, etc., etc., for for calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, and and for for fowls fowls and and chickens. chickens. When Wh en asparagus asparagus tips tips are are intended intended for for garnishing garnishing or or for for cold salads, they they must must be be dipped dipped in in cold co Id water water as as soon soon as as co Id salads, they they are are co.oked, co.oked, and and well weil drained. drained. Season Season with with vinaigrette, vinaigrette, or or mayonnaise, mayonnaise, or or bind bind with wi th meat mea tjelly. jelly. Asparagus Asparagustips tipswith witbcretm. cream.porNTEs POINTESD'AspERGEs D'ASPERGESAÀr,c, LAcRi;ur CRÈME Cook asparagus asparagus tips tips and and add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of fresh fresh -- Cook double double cream cream which which has has previously previously been been scalded. scalded. Blend Blend inin lightly and season. season. Arrange Arrange in in aa vegetable vegetable dish dish with with tips tips lightly and uppermost. uppermost.

Asparagus heaped in a croustade d la Car€me Asparagus beaped in a croustade li la Carême

Asparagus Asparagus Ià la la flamande. Oamande. AspERGEs ASPERGES A À r,,c, LA rrA,MAr.rDe FLAMANDE -- Serve Serve hot, hot, with with melted melted butter. butter. Halves Halves of of hot, hot, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs are are served separately. The guests mash the eggs on their plates served separately. The guests mash the eggs on their plates and and mix mix them them with with the the melted melted butter. butter. Asparagus in batter. batler. FRrror FRITOT D'Aspm.cEs D'ASPERGES -- Cook Cook the the Asparagus frid fried in tips of large green white or asparagus tips of large white or green asparagus in in salted salted boiling boiling water water for 5 minutes. Drain, for 5 minutes. Drain, dry, dry, and and marinate marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in juice oil, oil, lemon lemon juice or or vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. When When nearly nearly ready ready to to serve, serve, dip dip the the asparagus asparagus tips tips into into aa light light batter batter and and fry fry in in smoking-hot smoking-hot deep deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with fine fine salt, and arrange in a heap on aa napkin. napkin. salt, and arrange in a heap on Asparagus Asparagus ià la la Fontanelle. Fontanelle. lspm.cns ASPERGES AÀ ra LA roNr,lNELLE FONTANELLE -Boil Boil the the asparagus asparagus in in salted salted water water and and drain. drain. Serve Serve with with melted melted butter. butter. Soft-boiled eggs are served Soft-boiled eggs are served with with this this dish, dish, the the guests guests dipping asparagus in in the the melted melted butter butter and and then then in in the the dipping the the asparagus egg. egg. 54 54

ASPIC Asparagrs Asparagus tips in butter. porNTEs POINTES D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES AU BEURRE BEURRERemove the the tips from from a a bundle bundle of asparagus; scrape scrape and dice the rest. Cook Cook the diced diced pieces, drain well, weil, and dry in a pan over heat. Add small pieces of butter in the proportion proportion of of 75 g. (3 o2.,6 oz., 6 tablespoons) butter butter to 250 g. (9 oz.) asparaasparagus, and stir gently. Heap into a dish, and garnish gamish with the tips, which have been lightly lightly cooked in salted water. Green asparagus tips. rorvr.ns POINTES D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES vERTEs VERTES - Cut off the tough stalks, keeping the tender parts of green green asparaasparagus. Tie these into bundles of 8 to l0 10 shoots. Cut the lower lower part of these bundles into dice, keeping keepillg the actual tips tied together. Cook the diced asparagus asparagus in boiling salted water for 4 minutes, then add the bundles of of tips. Boil briskly, with the saucepan saucepan uncovered, for 7 or 8 minutes. Drain the bundles and and the the diced diced asparagus. asparagus. Dip Dip in in cold co Id water water and and cool. Proceed indicated in the chosen recipe. recipe. Proceed as indicated Puree Purée of green green rsparrgus. asparagus. prinrn PUREE D'AspERcEs D'ASPERGES vERTES VERTES Cook Cook asparagus asparagus tips in fast-boiling, fast-boiling, salted salted water, drain, and rub through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat the pur6e, purée, and and add add butter and cream. cream. This puree purée is used as a garnish. White ssparagus CROÛTE cRlrrNfr GRATINÉE lux AUX asparagus with fried bread. cno0ru ASrERGES lb.) of white asparagus ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHESBlanch 500 500 g. (l (lIb.) ofwhite asparagus - Blanch tips tips in salted water for for 8 minutes, minutes, drain, drain, and and simmer simmer in butter until cooked. Cut decrusted bread into slices slices l0 10 cm. (4 inches) and 6 cm. (2|inches) (21 inch es) wide, and and fry in butter. butter. inch es) long long and Put Put 77 or or 88 asparagus asparagus tips on each each slice slice of offried bread, sprinkle sprinkle fried bread, with grated Parmesan cheese, cheese, pour on the butter in which which the asparagus asparagus was cooked, cooked, and brown the top top lightly. White aspuagus asparagus with witb melted butter. butter. ASrERGEs ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHES AU AU BELJRRE BEURRE FoNDU FONDU * - Cook the asparagus asparagus in salted water, drain and serve, piping hot, with warm melted butter. The butter should be be melted over over aa gentle gentle heat heat and and seasoned seasoned with butter salt, pepper and a dash of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Pur6e Purée of white asparagus. asparagus. pun6n PURÉE D'AspnRGES D'ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHES Blanch 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) white asparagus asparagus tips lips for 8 minutes, drain, drain, and simmer sim mer lightly in butter. butter. Season with salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten with 2t Moisten with 2-!- dl. dl. (scant 1- pint, generous generous cup) thick Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). Boil Boil for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Rub Rub through through a fine sieve. Heat Heat the pur6e purée and add butter. butter. This This purde purée is used used as as a a garnish garnish for poached or lightly boiled boiled eggs, eggs, for for small pieces pieces of of meat, meat, for for chicken, chicken, for filling patties and tartlets. tartlets. White White aspffagus asparagus salad. SALADE SALADE D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES BLANcHEs BLANCHES the asparagus asparagus tips tips in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain, dip in in cold cold Cook the

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water, drain again and dry in aa napkin. napkin. Arrange in aa salad bowl or an hors-d'œuvre Arrange hors-d'eavre dish. Pour on well-whisked vinaigrette, or aa mixture of oil, oil, lemon juice, well-whisked well whisked, so that the sauce pepper. This must be weil salt and pepper. covers the asparagus in a layer. Serve chilled. ASIERGES BLANCHES BLANcIIES White asparagus with with cold cold sauces. White saucesL ASPERGES AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES FRorDEs FROIDES -- Cook AvEc and drain. Cook the the asparagus asparagus and Arrange Arrange on a dish serve with one dish and serve one of of the following sauces: Mayonnaise, Mustard, Mus tard, Tartare, Vinaigrette Vinnigrette (see SAUCE). SAUCE). White White asparagus with hot bot sauces. sauces. ASeERGEs ASPERGES BLANCHES asparagus with BLANcHEs AVEc AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES CHAUDES cHAUDES -- Cook the asparagus asparagus in salted water and drain. drain. Serve the following following sauces: and Serve separately one one of the sauces: Butter, Bdtarde, Bâtarde, Chantilly, Maltaise, Chantilly, Cream, Cream, Hollandaise, Maltaise, Mousseuse, Noisette (see SAUCE). SAUCE). ASPERULA. ASpERULE ASPÉRULE - Plant which is is both both useful useful and ASPERUI"A. pleasant. It It is called sweet is also also called sweet woodruff, mugwort, sweet sv)eet grass and quinsy quinsy wort. wort. Its ftowers are used as as an grass and Its white white flowers are used infusion, and for distilling distilling liqueurs. ln some sorne northern northem countries it is is also used for flavouring fiavouring In sausages. sausages.

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to aa way of arranging arranging cold ASPIC -- Term which applies to

putting slices It consists consists of ofputting slices or fillets of dishes. It of chicken, game,

various meats, fish, fish, vegetables, vegetables, fruit, fruit, etc., etc., into into moulded moulded various jelly. Many authors authors believe that that this this name name comes cornes from from the Many coldness recalls that that of the ca lied asp, asp, 'whose icy coldness serpent called jelly', jelly', but it is more probably derived from the Greek word aspis, which which means buckler buckler or shield. It was, in fact, in this aspr,s, moulds were made; others were made in form that the first moulds a coiled coiled snake, snake, doubtless to justify the name name the shape of a 'aspic'. Whatever its its origin, origin, the the word word aspic is is applied applied to to very Whatever preparations: foie Joie gras gras in in aspic, aspic, chicken chicken in in aspic, different preparations: partridge in aspic, lobster lobs ter in aspic, aspic, fillets fiUets of oJ sole in aspic. For methods methods of aspic aspic preparations preparations of meat, meat, chicken, For game, shellfish and and fish, fish, see see the the following following entries in their game, alphabetical order: CHICKEN, CHICKEN, LOBSTER, PHEASANT, PHEASANT, alphabetical SHRIMP, SOLE. SHRIMP, made of of fruit and set in in jelly jelly moulds are also Sweet dishes made ca lied aspics. aspics. The word word aspic is is used, used, too, too, for the actual called jelly. jelly. ln In his book book devoted to cold co Id enties, entrées, Car6me Carême describes the method of of preparing preparing aspic jelly as follows: 'Clean 'Clean and and singe singe 2 2 chickens, chickens, wash wash them them thoroughly, thoroughly, truss them, and and place place in a small marmite marmite (q.v.) with a round truss of veal, veal, other other veal trimmings and a little little ham. Add 6 boned of and blanched calves' feet, fill the marmite marmite with water, water, and from the flame. A leave to cook on a hot stove, but away from much lighter lighter aspic, aspic, easy easy to to clarify, cJarify, is is obtained obtained by by this much process. Skim thoroughly, and add half half a bay leaf, leaf, a little process. and basil, basil, a bunch of parsley and and spring onions, onions, 2 thyme and carrots and 2 onions. on ions. Keep Keep the the jelly jelly simmering simmering gently and 2 carrots for 4 hours. for 'Whisk 44 egg egg whites whites with aa glass glass of ofwhite or Madeira, Madeira, 'Whisk white wine or you wish to and the the same same amount amollnt of ofveal stock ififyou to give give itit some sorne veal stock and colour; ifif not, not, omit omit the the stock. stock. Add Add to to thejelly, the jelly, place place on on aa high colour; fla me, and whisk until until the mixture is boiling. Turn heat to flame, Taste, in case a little little salt is needed. very low. Taste, Coyer the pan and leave leave to simmer for about about 2 minutes, Cover be clear. cJear. mixture should be when the mixture napkin in water, water, wring wring out out well, weil, and and tie lie the Rinse a a napkin Rinse corners to an upturned chair. Strain the aspic through the napkin.' napkin.' Carême also also describes describes how how aspic aspic should be be coloured: coloured: Cardme of the principal presentations presentations of of cold co Id dishes consists consists 'One of these clarified, c1arified, transparent transparent jellies jellies of 2 colours only -of these one should be be white white and the other other of of a good strong colour.' one

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j

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Arrangement of of aspic, after after Arrangement Carême Car6me

55 55

ASPIC ASPIC

Aspic moulds moulds Aspic

great Laguipière perfect colourings how the great Laguipibre achieved achieved perfect colourings He tells how jellies: 'Melt granulated sugar 'Melt granulated sugar and, and, without without moistenmoistenfor his jellies: ing it, it, let let itit colour colour little little by little on by little on red-hot red-hot cinders, cinders, which which ing quarter of should take take about about aa qu~rter of an an hour. hour. When When itit becomes becomes should amber-red caramel, glass of with half caramel, moisten moisten with half aa glass water and of water and amber-red place the pan over hotter fiame. flame. After the pan over aa hotter After several several minutes minutes of of place amber-red, totally clear amber-red, totally unlike unlike the boiling it becomes aa clear the bitter bitter get black caramel w which is allowed allowed to to get black on on aa high high fiame flame and and caramel hich is commonly called called "monkey's "monkey's blood.'" blood."' which is commonly The modern modern method process isis given method of given of the the clarifying clarifying process The under the the entryentitled entry entitled JELLIES, and and in in the below. under the one one below. jelly -- To (4| quarts, of aspic quarts, litres (41 aspic jeUy To c1arify clarify 55 litres Clarification of jelly stock, quarts) jelly (l lb.) lean 5| quarts) add 3 egg g. (lIb.) stock, add egg whites and and 500 lean 500 g. minced beef. Add aa tablespoon oftarragon of tarragon and and aa tablespoon tablespoon chervil, roughly roughly chopped. Whisk Whisk lightly. of chervil, lightly. Heat Heat the the stock stock is tepid, tepid, skimming skimming off aa little until it is off aIl all the the fat: fat: this this isis imimto the the boil, whisking all portant. Bring to all the Lower the the time. time. Lower the heat and and simmer gently for for 35 minutes. heat Rinse a napkin in water, wring out out thoroughly, thoroughly, and and strain strain aspic through through the napkin. the aspic jelly can Aspic jelly can be be fiavoured flavoured with with various various dessert dessert wines: port, sherry, Frontignan, port, Frontignan, sherry, Marsala, Marsala, Madeira, Madeira, Malvasia (Malvoisie). These wines, wines, which which are are only added added to to the jelly when it is used in the proportion of is tepid, are used per litre of 1I dl. dl. per litre (3 tablespoons per pint) of (3 of jelly in the the case of dessert dessert wines, and 2 dl. in the case of Champagne, Sauternes, Alsatian, or or other white wines. Instructions Instructions for making various aspic jellies will be found found Meat jellies. jellies. under JELLIES, Meat Aspics in moulds mouldsAspics set in plain moulds, charlotte- Aspics are set moulds or moulds with a ho le in type moulds hole in the middle. Coat the mould with aa thin layer of as indicated in of jelly, as in pressing into the recipes. Decorate by pressing into the jelly small pieces truffie, cooked lean harn of trufre, ham or tongue, and white of hardand white egg for meat, meat, chicken game aspics. boiled egg chicken or or game aspics. For fish fish or aspics use use pieces pieces of trufre, truffie, white shellfish aspics white of of hard-boiled hard-boiled coral of shellfish or slivers of smoked salmon. egg, the coral

Aspic crofitons. Aspic croOtons. CROÛTONS cRo0roNs DE DE GELÉE cnrfs -- Aspics Aspics cut into cut into jelly must shapes -- triangles. shapes triangles, rectangles, rectangles, crescents, crescents, etc. etc. The The jelly must be clear clear and and solid. solid. be When aa number number of When of croûtons crotitons have pour the have to to be be made, made, pour the jelly into into aa large jelly large baking baking dish dish to quite firm, to set. set. When When itit isis quite firm, turn turn out out onto onto aa damp damp cloth cloth which which has has been been stretched stretched and and fastened to fastened to aa table. table. Cut with aa knife Cut up up with knife ifif the the croûtons cro0tons are are rectilinear in pastry-cutter rectilinear tter ifif they in shape, shape, or with aa pastry-cu or with they are round. are round. The technical The technical term gelie means crotttonner de term croûtonner de gelée means to to surround surround sorne jelly cut some cold cold food food with with croûtons cro0tons of ofjelly cut into into shapes. shapes. Aspic Aspic of freshwater crayfish of freshwater crayfish tails. Asprc DE DE QUEUES tails. ASPIC euEUEs p'fcnnvrssns -- Cook D'ÉCREVISSES (see Cook the crayfish àd lala mirepoix mirepoix (see the crayfish MIREPOIX). MIREPOIX). Shell Shell the the tails plain tails and and arrange airange them them in in aa plain round round mould mould which which has has been coated withjelly. been coated with jelly. Fill Fill the the mould mould either YFISH) or (see CRA either with with aa Crayfish Crayfi,sh mousse mousse (see CRAYFISH) or aaRussian Russian (see SALAD). salad salad (see SALAD). Chili ice. Chill on on ice. porssoNs - This Aspic Aspic of of fish. fish. ASPIC esprc DE DE POISSONS can be be made with made with - This can fish fish of various kinds, of various kinds, cut cut in in fillets, fillets, slices slices or medallions. Fill or medallions. Fill the the middle middle of of the the aspic aspic dish dish with with aa fish fish mousse mousse appropriate appropriate to particular recipe; to the the particular with Russian recipe; with Russian salad; salad; or or with with any any mixture mixture normally normally used used for for cold cold dishes. dishes. Aspic gras J.I. ASPIC Aspic of foie gras plain of foie mplc DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAs -- Coat Coat aa plain jelly and mould mould with with jelly gras, and fill fill itit with with uniform uniform slices slices of of foie foie gras, garnished garnished with with large large slivers slivers of of truffies. truffies. Fill Fill the the mould mould with with jelly. Leave half-set jelly. Leave on plate or on ice ice to to set. set. Serve Serve on on aa plate or in in aa glass glass dish. dish. Aspic gras II. Aspic of of foie foie gras II. ASPIC lsplc DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAS -- Coat Coat aa mould mould jelly (or jelly fiavoured with port-fiavoured port-flavoured jelly (or jelly flavoured with with any any other other heavy wine). Fill heavy wine). Fill with with truBles truffes cut cut into into neat neat round round slices, slices, round pieces of pickled tongue, round pieces of ham ham or or pickled tongue, and, and, if if desired, desired, the the whites whites of of hard-boiled eggs eggs cut cut in in rings. rings. Fill the mould withjeIly. with jelly. Chill on ice ice or or in in the Chill on the refrigerator. refrigerator. To To serve, serve, turn turn the aspic onto the aspic onto aa fiat flat dish, dish, or or onto onto slices slices of of buttered bread. If served bread. If served on on aa dish, dish, decorate decorate with with chopped chopped jelly,and jelly triangles. jelly.and triangles. This This aspic aspic can can also also be be made made by filling the mould with by filling the mould with foie gras slices gras cut slices of of/oie cut out out with aa shell-shaped shell-shaped scoop. scoop.

st

Sole (Battendier. Phot. in aspic Sole in aspic (Battendier. Phot. Larousse) Larousse)

Lobster in in aspic (Battendier. (Battendier. Phot. Phol. Larousse) Larousse) Lobster

56 56 Beef pot-ou-feu (Lasserre. Phot. Nicolas) Beef po t-au-feu (Lasserr e. P ho t. N ico las)

'lnr.

ASPIC

Chicken in aspic (Roberr Carrier)

5757 Roast and strips of red pepper, Roastsirloin garnishedwitb sirloinofofbeef beefgarnished withFrench Frenchbeans beans and strips of red pepper, carrot aod potato baskets (Phol. .\Iicolas) sticks and potato baskets (Pfrot. N it'olas\ carrotsticks

ASSIETTE Aspic of frogs' legs Ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. Asprc ASPIC DE DE GRENouTLLES GRENOUILLES A À t'lNcreNue L'ANCIENNE -- Poach trimmed frogs' legs legs in white wine flavoured thyme and a bay flavoured with a sprig sprig of ofthyme bay leaf. Leave Leave to cool in in the the liquor. Iiquor. Drain, Drain, dry, and and coat half half of of them them completely completely with a white white Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce based based on meatless meatless stock, stock, and and the other other half half with with a Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce coloured coloured with crayfish butter (see (see SAUCE, Compound Compound sauces). sauces). Lay Lay the frogs' frogs' legs on a wire tray, one by one, and leave them them to get quite cold. Decorate with truffies truffles cut in thin slices. slices. Coat Coat with aspic aspic jelly. jelly. Arrange Arrange the the frogs' frogs' legs legs round round the sides of of a mould which has has been been coated coated with jelly, jelly, alternating them with with peeled crayfish crayfish tails. tails. Fill the middle middle of of the the mould mould with a Parisian salad (see (see SALAD), dressed dressed with mayonnaise mayonnaise which which has has been been thickened thickened with gelatine. gelatine. Pour Pour a thin layer layer of aspic aspic jelly on ice. jelly over over the the whole, whole, and and chill chillon To To serye, serve, turn turn out onto onto a dish dish and and decorate decorate with a border border of of jelly jelly cro0tons croûtons (q.v.). (q.v.).

of cold co Id meats meats (Laroussel (Larousse) Plate of

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Assiettes volantes - This This term term describes describes a a selection of several items items of food food on one one plate, in the the manner manner of an several hors-d'œuvre, particularly particularly various kinds of salty salty foods foods cut hors-d'euvre, thin slices. slices. in thin the beginning beginning of the the nineteenth Assiettes garnies -- At the century, this this term term also also applied to ta a dish. century, Carême says: 'Lunch consisted of six assleltes assiettes on which Car€me cutlets, fish, chicken, chic ken, game, game, a side-dish of of vegetables, vegetables, veal cutlets, and soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs were were served.' served.' and

Little Little chicken chicken aspics aspics

(about 25 miles) from ASTI -- Italian Italian town town situated 40 km. (about ASTI Turin. It It is is the the ancient ancient Asta Asta Colonia or Asta Asta Pompeia Pompeia of of the Turin. Romans, and is is famous famous for its sparkling wine, made from Romans, Moscato grapes, grapes, called called Asti Asti Spumante Spumante (see WINE). WINE). Moscato

Aspic of of poultry poultry and and feathered feathered grme. game. Asplc ASPIC DE DE voLAILLEs VOLAlLLES -Aspic Coat slices slices of of chicken chicken or or game game with with white white or or brown brown ChaudChaudCoat froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and put put them them in in aa mould mould which which froid jelly. Fill has been been coated coated with with aspic aspicjelly. Fill the the mould mould with with either either aa has chicken or or game game mousse, mousse, or or with with some sorne other other mixture mixture used used chicken

ASTRAGAL (Milk vetch). ASTRAGALE ASTRAGALE - Many varieties of ASTRAGAL astragal grow in Asia; it is also also found found in the the temperate astragal regions of of the the Lebanon. Lebanon. One One variety variety of of milk milk vetch vetch produces regions gum tragacanth, tragacanth, which which is is used used in confectionery confectionery and pastrypastrygum making. making.

for for cold cold dishes. dishes.

of shrimps shrimps or or other other shellfish. shellfish. Asprc ASPIC DE DE cREvETTEs CREVEITES -Aspic of Aspic Coat an an aspic aspic mould mould with with clear clear fish fish jelly. jelly. Decorate Decorate the the sides sides Coat with with peeled peeled shrimp shrimp tails tails and and small small pieces pieces of of truffie. truffle. Fill Fill the the of the the mould mould with with aa cold cold shrimp shrimp mousse mousse mixed mixed with with middle of middle shrimp tails tails and and truffies truffles cut cut into into large large dice. dice. Fill Fill the the mould mould shrimp with jelly, jelly, and and leave leave on on ice ice to to set. set. with be prepared prepared in in the the same same way, way, using using Crayfish aspics aspics can can be Crayfish trimmed crayfish crayfish tails tails and and crayfish crayfish mousse. mousse. Spiny Spiny lobster lobster or or trimmed lobster aspics aspics are are made made by by Using using slices slices of of one one or or other other of of lobster these shellfish, shellfish, together together with with the the appropriate appropriate mousse. mousse. these ASSIETIE -- See See PLATE. PLA TE. ASSIETTE of cold cold meats meats arranged arranged on on Assiette anglaise anglaise -- Assortment Assortment of Assiette plate or or aa dish. dish. aa plate The assortment assortment usually usually consists consists of of York York ham, ham, salt salt beef, beef, The tongue, rib rib of of beef beef or or roast roast beef. beef. Mortadella, Mortadella, galantine, galantine, tongue, etc., are are sometimes sometimes added added to to it. it. etc., The meat meat is is garnished garni shed with with chopped chopped jelly, jelly, cress cress and and The gherkins. The The assiette assiette anglaise anglaise isis served served chiefly chiefly at at lunch. lunch. gherkins. The term term assiettes assiettesassorties assorties describes describes various various preparations preparations The served as as hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, thotgh though hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre ate are usually usually served served nowadays nowadays in in special special hors-teuvre hors-d'œuvre dishes. dishes. served

Astragal Astragal a. Astragalus AstragaJus of of Crete Crete b. b. Liquorice Liquorice vetch vetch c. c. Fruit Fruit a.

58 58

ATTELET AITELET were cooked great number of dishes were cooked In In the past, when wh en aa great burning fue was actually burning in the fireplace, the thepart part where the fire (hearth). It stews hearth that It was in in the hearth that stews dtre (hearth). was called the âtre preparations which slowly long time were were slowly which take aa long and other preparations

Another Another variety variety produces produces fruit fruit in the form of of pods, pods, which, which, the seeds seeds contained contained in in them them are are formed, formed, resemble resemble before the before wonns. worms. In In the the past past these pods pods used to be added to salads (to (to mystify mystify the guests guests !). !). Astragalus Astragalus pods pods are are also also pickled in vinegar, like like capers. vinegar, seeds of There is yet another variety of astragalus, the the seeds which, when ripe, are used in cookery. cookery. which,

cooked, surrounded by hot coals. gas, in ovens heated by gas, All these dishes are today cooked in Ali protest gastronomes protest few gastronomes oil. Quite coal or or oil. electricity, coal electricity, Quite aa few maintaining that that dishes cooking, maintaining of cooking, against these methods of against prepared in this way as as when cooked by by cannot taste so good prepared cannot the old methods. When nothing in the claim. When Experience shows that there is nothirig Experience (and kitchen utensils have today today used (and well-made utensils are used weIl-made perfection), food cooked point of food can can be be cooked high point of perfection), reached aa high reached product and whatever whatever the the method. successfully, whatever whatever the product successfully,

vegetable ASTRINGENT -- Binding, Binding, contracting. contracting. The The vegetable ASTRINGENT

owe their their properties to tannin. Among Among them are astringents owe

of walnut cutch, bark bark of of oak, oak, quinquina, quinquina, leaves leaves of walnut tree, cutch, bramble, lemon lemon juice, quinces, quinces, etc. arbutus tree and bramble,

ASTRODERME - Sea fish of of an an unusual unusual appearance, appearance, ASTRODERME Sea fish round spots, yellowish pink on on the back back and sides with black round yellowish Young astrosilvery spots spots on on the the belly. belly. Young alternating with silvery This bellies. This dermes have have purplish-blue bodies bodies and and silvery silvery bellies. dermes is well known fei" d'America d'America by Nice fishermen, fishermen, is weil known fish, called fel of France along the the whole whole of the the Mediterranean Mediterranean coast coast of along (Côte d'Azur). (C6te bouillabaise...' It is chiefly used as an ingredient ingredient for for bouillabaise

-

plant of family as as of the the same same family Herbaceous plant ATRIPLEX -- Herbaceous ATRIPLEX genus Chenopodium. goosefoot genus Chenopodh*n. and the the goosefoot spinach and spinach garden orach; as garden orach; itit isis known as is commonly commonly known The atriplex atriplex is The prepared like like It isis prepared grown aIl France. It all over over France. and grown cultivated and cultivated spinach. (See ORACH.) spinach.

ATHENA EUS -- Greek writer, born in Naucratis, Naucratis, in Egypt, ATHENAEUS

reign ofMarcus ive in the reign still al alive Aurelius. He was still of Marcus Aurelius. in the reign year A.D. of Alexander Alexander Severus, about the year 228. xo.228. Only one of his entitled Deipnosohas survived, entitled works has his works phistai or Specialists is aa gem of erudition, phistai in Dining, which is Specialists in giving much much information would history which we would giving information on ancient history otherwise lack. In Specialists relating ln Specialists in Dining, there are several passages relating to both practical uses, both various uses, and their their various fruit and and fruit to flowers and and pleasurable. and pleasurable. ATHÉNIENNE (À (A V) dishes various dishes L') -- Name applying applying to to various ATIffiMENNE which are and onion, and fried onion, lightly fried flavoured with with lightly are usually usually flavoured garnished garnished with aubergines, sweet pimentos. and sweet aubergines, tomatoes and

(Collection of Phot. Larousse) Iarousse) Antique of Dr Dr GOllschalk. Gottschalk. Phal. Antique attelets attelets(Collecrion

Athérine

hasta, meanmeanATTELET Latin hasta, from the the Latin This word word cornes comes from ATTELET -- This often past was ing It isisoften spelt hatelet. hatelet.It was spelt in the the past and in staff or rod, and ing staff or rod, which used, metal skewers skewers on on which little metal describe !ittle incorrectly, to to describe used, incorrectly, various sweetbreads, lambs'sweetbreads, pieces of kidneys, lambs; meat, sheeps' sheeps' kidneys, of meat, various pieces larks, are threaded. threaded. larks, etc., etc., are To shape of ofaa in the the shape little utensil utensil in precise, an attelet isis aa little an allelet To be be precise, with mental top. pin These, with top. These, pin or with an an orna ornamental skewer, but but with or skewer, truffles, food items of of food other items and other crayfish and cocks' combs, combs, crayfish truffies, cocks' threaded hot or or cold cold for decorating decorating hot solely for are used usedsolely on them, them, are threaded on dishes grand style. style. in the the grand dishes served served in For grand entrées, advocated the the entries, Carême Car0me advocated For arranging arranging these thesegrand use cookery In modern modern cookery great number attelets. In number of of allelets. use of of aa great practice practically abandoned. abandoned. practice this has been been practically decoration has this decoration Modern decoration useof of any anydecoration as aarule, rule, the the use disdain, as Modern cooks cooks disdain, which edible. which isis not not actually actually edible. ItIt isis probable Car6me's decorating Carême's probable that attelets decorating the allelets that the entrées andthe effects theeffects fact, edible were,inin fact, edibleand removes were, entriesand and removes obtained beautiful. certainly beautifu!' obtained were were certainly

ATHÉRINE body, fish, with with aa long, long, spindle-shaped spindle-shaped body, ATfffiRINE -- Little Little fish, covered posterior end. The sides sides end. The with rounded rounded scales scales at at the the posterior covered with have the head isis flattened flattened on on the the top, top, the have aa silvery silvery stripe, stripe, the the head upper th are jaw isis shorter are very very lower, and and the the tee teeth shorter than than the the lower, upper jaw smal!. small. Two coasts of of France, France, fish are Two species species of are known known on on the the coasts of this this fish where prêtre and faux éperlan. where they are called calledprdtre andfaux iperlan. they are Common English are silversideand and sand-smelt, sand-smelt, names in in English are silverside Common narnes and species are are fishermen take enormous catches. catches. Other Other species and the the fishermen take enormous found coast lakes. lakes. found in in the and Mediterranean Mediterranean coast the estuaries estuaries and In fish. Its Its fiesh flesh isis In the smelts correspond correspond to to this this fish. the U.S.A., U.S.A., smelts delicate delicate in in flavour. flavour. Athérines are usuaIly in deep deep fat, fat, fried in Athirines are usually fried but for small small bass can be be applied applied to to this this recipes suitable suitable for bass can all recipes but ail fish. fish. ÂTRE (Hearth stone) today, This word word isis no no longer longer used used today, Afnn (Hearth stone) -- This except pastrypart of the baker's baker's or or pastryexcept to to describe describe the the central central part of the cook's oyen. cook's oven. 59 59

ATTENDU ATTENDU ATTENDU -- French French culinary culinaryterm term applied applied totoaadish dish or or ATTENDU beverage the the consumption consumption of of which which isis intentionally intentionally postpostbeverage poned in in order pheasant should order to to improve improve it. it. Thus Thusaa pheasant shouldbe be poned attendu, that that is, is, kept kept hung, hung, before before being being cooked cooked and andeaten. eaten. attendu,

whichhas hasbeen beenadded concentratedgame gamestock added concentrated stockreduced reducedtoto which (q.u.).Finish afumet (g.v.). Finish asasdescribed described ininthe therecipe recipefor forAttereaux afumet Attereaux chalonaise. àdlaIachalonaise. pannesan(Parma (Parma style) Attereaur auauparmesan style)- - Cook Attereaux Cooksemolina semolina (q.v.)ininbutter, butter,and andwhen firm,thread whenfinn, threadslices (q.v.) sliceson onthe theattereaux. attereaux. Addslices slicesof ofGruyère Gruydre cheese. cheese. Add Dip the theattereaux attereauxininegg eggand andbreadcrumbs Dip breadcrumbsand anddeep-fry. deep-fry. Attereauxofofcalves' calves'sweetbreads sweetbreads ViUeroi. Attereaux Villeroi.ATTEREAUX ATTEREAux DE DE RIsDE DEVEAU vEAU VILLEROI vrLLERor - - Braise Braise uniform piecesofofcalves' RIS uniform pieces calves' sweetbreads ininaa white (q.v.)and white court-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.) sweetbreads andthread thread them on onthe theattereaux. attereaux. Finish Finishasasdescribed them described ininthe therecipe recipefor for Attereaux àdlalachalonaise. chalonaise. Atlereaux Attereaux of ofchicken chickenlivers livers ài lalamirepoix. Attereaux mirepoix.ATTEREAUX ATTEREAUX DE DE ForESDE DEVOLAILLE VoLATLLE ÀA LA FOIES u MIREPOIX unBpox - - Fry Frychicken chickenlivers liversinin butter, drain drain and butter, and cool. cool. Thread Thread them themon onthe theatlereaux, attereaux. piecesof with pieces together with together of lean leancooked cooked ham, ham,and andsliced slicedmushmushrooms. Coat rooms. Coat the the atlereaux (q.v.)ofofroot attereaux with with aafondue root fondue (g.v.) pieces, roll vegetables vegetables cut cut into into very verysmall small pieces, roll inin breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and finish finish asas described described inin the therecipe recipefor for Atlereaux Attereaux àdlala chalonaise. chalonaise. Attereaux TTEREA UX DE Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' brains brains Villeroi. Villeroi. AATTEREAUX DE CERVELLE cERvELLE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU VILLEROI VILLERoI - - Cut Cut up uplambs' lambs' brains brainsand and cook cook them in aa white (q.v.).Cool them in white court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.). anddrain, Cooland drain, and pepper, oil, and season season with with salt, salt, pepper, oil, aa few few drops drops of lemon of lemon juice, and juice, and aa liule little chopped parsley. Thread chopped parsley. Thread on onthe the atlereaux, attereaux, and and finish finish as as described described inin the the recipe recipe for for Allereaux Attereaux àdlala chalonaise. chalonaise. Atlereaux Attereaux of of calves' prepared inin the calves' brains brains are are prepared thesame same manner. manner.

(Skewer) -- In ATTEREAU (Skewer) In his his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire de decuisine cuisine etet ATTEREAU (Paris 1836), d iconomie (Paris 1836), Burnet, Burnet, one-time one-time steward steward of of the the d'économie royal household, gives the household, gives following definition the following definition of of attereau: attereau: royal 'Name which which keepers keepers of of eating-houses eating-houses attribute attribute toto aa kind kind 'Name of ragoût ragofit made made of of fiUet fillet of of veal, veal, cut cut inin very very thin thin slices. slices. They They of are studded studded with with lardoons lardoons and pie dish and cooked cooked in in aa pie dish with with aa are poured over little stock stock poured over them.' them.' little Car€me, however, however, in in his published before his works works published before Burnet's Burnet's Carême, dictionary, describes describes aa method method of preparation of of preparation of attereaux attereaux dictionary, which indicates indicates that that this this dish dish isis in in no no way way aa ragoût. ragofrt. In ln which modern cookery, cookery, attereau attereau describes describes both both the the metal metal skewer skewer modern on which which various various ingredients ingredients are are threaded, threaded, and and the the dish dish on itself. This This is is usualJy usually served served as as an an hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, but but can can also also itself. be served served as as aa small small entrée entrde ifif supplemented supplemented by garnish. by aa garnish. be Attereaux differ differ from from brochettes brochettes in in being being dipped dipped in in aa Attereaux give them sauce to to give them aa finn firm coating, coating, rolled rolled in in breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sauce and usually deep-fried. deep-fried. and The ingredients ingredients which which make make up up the the attereaux attereaux can can be be The cooked on on wooden wooden skewers, skewers, and and then then transferred transferred to to sil silver ver attelets. The The attereaux attereaux can can also also be be served served without without the attelets. the on which they they were cooked. cooked. skewers on sweet courses can prepared en can be be prepared m atlereau, attereau, the Sweet the method method being the given for same as the same as that given for savoury savoury atlereaux. attereaux. being Attereaux ài la la chalonaise chalonaise -- Thread Thread the-attereaux the-attereaux with Attereaux with combs and and kidneys cooked cooked in in aa white white court-bouillon cocks' combs court-bouillon (q.v.), and and drained. Add mushrooms and and trufHes. (q.v.), truffies. Dip the the atlereaux attereaux in (see SAUCE). in Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see Dip SAUCE). Roll Roll them in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and fry in smoking smoking hot deep them deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain, season with with fine fine sait, salt, and and arrange arrange on paper season on aa napkin napkin or or paper garnished with fried fried parsley. doyley, garnished Atterearx ài la la duchesse (dessert) -- Prepare Attereaux Prepare aa mixture mixture of of (see CUSTARD, crdme frite CUSTARD, Fried Fried custard) crème frite (see custard) to to which which have have been added added 2 crushed macaroons and and 1I tablespoon tablespoon crystalcrystallised lised fruit, cut in very small dice and and steeped steeped in in rum. rum. When firm, thread firm, thread slices of this this mixture on on the the atlereau. attereau. Roll Roll in in very fine breadcrumbs and deep-fry in in smoking hot hot fat. fat. Attereaux I l'6cossaise l'écossaise -- Make up up the Attereaux à the attereaux attereaux using using pieces (see OFF Pick led ox AL or ARIETY pieces of Pickled ox tongue tongue (see OFFAL or V VARIETY MEATS), mushrooms, and MEATS), and rather rather thick thick slices slices of trufHes. truffies. Finish recipe for Finish as described described in the recipe Attereaux àd la chalonaise. for Attereaux Attereaux Attereaux ià h la maralchlre maraîchère -- Use Use pieces of turnip-rooted celery celery (celeriac) (celeriac) previously previously simmered simmered in butter; mushrooms, and cooked ham ham for for the and pieces pieces of cooked the attereaux. attereazx. Finish Finish as as Attereaux àd la described in the recipe for Attereaux described Ia chalonaise. Attereaux ià la nigoise niçoise -- Make Attereaux Make up the attereaux with large stoned olives olives stuffed stuffed with aa pur6e purée of stoned of anchovies, anchovies, mushrooms, of pickled tunny. Dip them in in Villeroi pieces of and pieces (see Villeroi sauce sauce (see of concentrated tomato purée, SA UCE), with a tablespoon of SAUCE), tomato pur6e, add chopped tarragon. tarragon. Finish Finish as as described and add described in the the recipe Atlereaux dà la chalonaise. chalonaise. for Attereaux Attereaux ià la normande normande -- Make Make up up the the attereaux by Attereaux attereaux by plump mussels mussels cooked dà la marinidre, marinière, drained, threading on plump threading drained, and stuffed stuffed with with finely finely pounded fish forcemeat. Add mushand cut in in round round slices. Finish Finish as as described described in the the recipe recipe rooms cut rooms for Attereaux Atlereaux dà la chalonaise. chalonaise. for Attereaux ià la la pi6montaise piémontaise -- Make up the the attereaux with Attereaux with of polenta polenta (q.v.) (g.v.) cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and thick thick slices slices of of slices of slices truffies. Dip Dip them them in in egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry deep-fry truffies. in sizzling sizzling fat. fa t. in Attereaux ià la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Make up up the the attereaux attereaux by by Attereaux of pheasant, pheasant, grouse, grouse, or or any any other other winged winged thread ing on on slices slices of threading Add sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms and and pieces pieces of of cooked cooked lean lean game. Add game. Dip the the attereaux atlereaux rn in Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to ham. Dip ham.

Attereaux Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads Villeroi Villeroi

Attereaux Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads ViUeroi. Villeroi. ATTEREAUX ATTEREAUx DE DE Braise Braise lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads in in aa white (q.v.) and white court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.) and thread thread them them on on the the atlereaux. attereaux. Finish Finish off as described off as described in in the the recipe recipe for for Atlereaux Attereaux àd la la chalonaise. chalonaise. Attereaux à la Villeroi can, in addition to the basic Attereaux d Ia Villeroi can. in addition to the basic element, also element, also contain contain mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked in in white mushwhite mushroom court-bouillon and room court-bouillon and cut cut in in slices. slices. Attereaux of of ox palate. ATTEREAUX pALArs DE Attereaux ATTEREAT.Tx DE ox palate. DE PALAIS DE BOEUF BoEUF -Cut the the ox palate (cooked AL or (cooked as Cut ox palate as described described under under OFF OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Ox palate), into VARIETY Ox palate\, into round round slices. Put them slices. Put them on attereaux allereaux with with alternate on alternate rows rows of of fried fried mushroom mushroom heads heads RIS RIs D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU VILLEROI vTLLERoI -

60 60

AUBERGINE AUBERGINE a plant originatAUBERGIhIE AUBERGINE or or EGGPLANT EGGPLANT -- Fruit Fruit of of a plant originatthe names of ing in France France under under the names of ing in in India, India, known known also also in France since *ilorgrna melongena and and morelle. morelle. ItIthas has been been cultivated cultivated in in France since In the U.S.A' it is century. seventeenth the of beginning the the beginning of the seventeenth century. In the U.S.A. it is called called eggplant. eggplant.· most used in There There ire are many many varieties varieties of of this this plant. plant. The The most used in vegetable and cookery long purple, purple, which which is is used used as as aa vegetable and cookery is is the the long are: the Bar' as as aa girnish. garnish. Among Among other other edible edible varieties varieties are: the Bargiant New purple aubergine,the round aubergine;the bentaie bentane aubergine; the round purple aubergine, the giant New York York aubergine, aubergine, and and the the round round Valencia Valencia aubergine. aubergine. for cootMethods Methods of ofpreparation. preparation. There There are are many many recipes recipes for cookgreatly. ing and the the initial initial preparation preparation varies varies greatly. ing aubergines, aubergines, and oven or in the baked stewed, to be is vegetable When this When this vegetable is to be stewed, baked in the oyen or make its fried, fried, it it must must be be steeped steeped in in salt salt for for 30 30 minutes minutes to to make its excess excess water water ooze ooze out. out. The The aubergines aubergines are are then then thoroughly thoroughly dried and cooked cooked as as indicated indicated in in the the recipes. recipes. dried and or in butter Various Various uses. uses. Aubergines, Aubergines, cut cut in in dice dice and and fried fried in butter or eggs (sur le oil, oil, can can be be used used as as a a garnish garrush for for the the following: following: eggs (sur le omelette); in an an omelette); plat, scrambled, poached, plat, scrambled, poached, fried, fried, or or cooked cooked in noisettes; ot noisettes; cutlets or fish meunibre; meunière; lamb lamb or or mutton mutton chops, chops, cutlets fish (see CHICKEN)' cocotte en or fried chicken tournedosiand tournedos; and chicken fried or en cocotte (see CHICKEN). can grilled, aubergines aubergines can fried or or grilled, lengthways, fried half lengthways, Sliced in Sliced in half fish. fillets of of fish. poached eggs, or fillets eggs' or of poached arrangement of in the be used be used in the arrangement be grilled, they can be they can or grilled, fried or and fried slices and in thick thick slices cut in Peeled. cut Peeled, tournedos noisettes, escalopes, for a foundation as used used as a foundation for escalopes, noisettes, tournedos pieces of meat. of meat. small pieces and other other small and Cut aubergines. Cut firm aubergines. Peel 22 firm h crème crbme -- Peel Aubergines ài la Aubergines steep in salt for (+ inch) and steep thick, and inch) thick, cm. Ct slices t] cm. round slices in round them in them in salt for pan or or saut6 pan in aa sauté in butter butter in simmer in and simmer Dry, and minutes. Dry, 30 minutes. 30 pan. frying pan. heavy frying heavy sance (} pint, Cream sauce pint,3 cup) Cream ltdl' add I! Ulfore serving, serving, add fuit before Just dl. (i 1 cup) auberthe auberdamage the not to to damage care not (see SAUCE). taking care Stir, taking SAUCE). Stir, (see dish. vegetable dish. in aa vegetable gines. Arrange Arrange in gines. Boil cream- Boil (+ pint, pint, It 1| cups) cups) cream. dl. (t with 33 dl. pan juice with the panjuice Dilute the Dilute (2 oz', 50 g.g. (2 add 50 and add heat, and the heat, from the remove from hali remove by half, down by down oz., aubergines. pour over the aubergines. over the and pour Strain and fresh butter. butter. Strain cup) fresh t* cup) aubergines the aubergines Cut the FRITEs -- Cut AUBERcINEs FRITES aubergines. AUBERGINES friea aubergines. Fried pan plunge into deep pan into aadeep and plunge flour, and with flour, dredge with slices, dredge thin slices, in thin in onaa arrange on and arrange salt,and fine salt, with fine season with Drain, season oil. Drain, sizzling oil. of sizzling of napkin. napkin. into cutinto also be becut canalso deep-frying can for deep-frying intended for Aubergines intended Aubergines fan-wise. pieces, or cut fan-wise. orcut square pieces, thick square thick lengthwise inin aubergineslengthwise gratin -- Cut theaubergines Cut the au gratin Aubergines au Aubergines dish, leave ininaadish, and leave incisions and fewshallow shallow incisions Mike aa few half. Make half. hotoil. oil. fryininsizzling sizzlinghot Dry, then thenfry with salt. salt.Dry, thickly with sprinkling thickly sprinkling pulpwithout without outthe thepulp scoopout carefully scoop spoon carefully andwith witha Drain,and Drain, a spoon an addtotoititan pulp,and andadd thepulp, Chop skin. Ch outsideskin. theoutside damaging the damaging op the (q.v.)mixture andaatablespoon tablespoon mixtureand duxelles(q.v.) quantity of ofduxelles equal quantity equal parsley. ofchopped chopped parsley. of putthem them andput mixture,and withthis thismixture, skinswith aubergineskins ile aubergine Fill the Fill finely withfinely Sprinklewith dish.Sprinkle fireproofdish. oiledfireproof oroiled buttered or intoaabuttered into meltedbutter butteroror addmelted toasted,add freshor ortoasted, gratedbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, fresh grated thetop. toP. brown the andbrown ofoil, oil,and fewdrops dropsof aafew (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) Demi'glace(see pipea aborder borderofofDemi-glace Cooked,pipe Whencooked, When aubergines. theaubergines. around the around aubergines, Halveaubergines, gratinà i lalacatalane catalane- - Halve augratin Auberginesau Aubergines egg hard-boiledegg with1Ihard-boiled mixititwith andmix pulp,chchop thepulp, scoopout outthe scoop op it,it,and o-nign choppedonion tablespoonofofchopped Adda atablespoon finely.Add upfinely. choppedup chopped finely tablespoonofoffinely oil,a atablespoon friedininoil, lightlyfried hasbeen beenIightly whiifihas which garlic. parsleyand andgarlic. choppedparsley somechopped gratedbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs,sorne grated above. cookingasasabove. Finishcooking Finish Halveaubergines, aubergines,asas gratinà il'italienne I'italienne- -Halve Auberginesauaugratin Aubergines quantityofof pulpwith withananequal equalquantity choppedpulp mixthe tfechopped andmix above,and above, garlic.Finish cookFinishcookparsleyand andgarlic. choppedparsley littlechopped anda alittle risottoand risotto ingasasabove. above. ing Methodasas languedocienne- -Method gratinà i lalalanguedocienne Auberginesauaugratin Aubergines meat' sausagemeaL withsausage halveswith auberginehalves theaubergine fillingthe above,filling above, above. cookingasasabove. Finishcooking Finish

and slivers slivers of oftruffies. truffies. Coat Coat in in Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and allow a\low to to cool. cool. Dip Dip thern them in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and and rollinto intocylindrical cylindrical shape. shape. roll andarrange arrangeon onaanapkin napkingarnished garnished Deep-fryininsizzling sizzlingfat fatand Deep-fry withfried fried parsley. parsley.Serve Servewith withPirigueux Périgueuxsauce sauce(see (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). with Attereaux of of oysters oysters Monselet.Monselet. ATTEREAUx ATTEREAUX o'suitnns D'HUÎTRES Attereaux MoNsELET MONSELET -- Poach Poach and and drain drain oysters. oysters. Thread Thread them them on on attereaux, together together with with cooked cooked mushrooms mushrooms cut cut in in slices, slices, attereaux, and thick thick slices slices of oftrufles. truffies. Finish Finish as as described described in in the the recipe recipe and for Attereaux Attereaux of ofbrains, brains, using using Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) for based on on fish fish stock stock boiled boiled down down to to afumet afumet (q.v.). (q.v.). based of pineapple pineapple (dessert). (ilessert). ATTEREAUx ATTEREAUX D'ANANAS D'ANANAS -Attereaux of Attereaux Thread pieces pieces of of pineapple pineapple on on the the attereaux. attereaux. Dip Dip them them in in aa Thread crème frite frite (see (see CUSTARD, CUST ARD, Fried Fried custurA custard) and and breadbreadcrime crumbs. Fry Fry in in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat, fat, drain, drain, and and sprinkle sprinkle crumbs. with fine fine sugar. sugar. with Apricot sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) laced laced with with kirsch. kirsch. Serve with with Apricot Serve Attereaux of of salnon salmon -- See See SALMON. SALMON. Attereaux Attereaux Pompadour Pompadour (dessert) (dessert) -- Make Make up up the the attereaux attereaux Attereaux by threading threading on slices of of stale stale brioches, brioches, alternating altemating with with by cooked in in syrup syrup and halved apricots which which have have been been cooked halved drained. Dip them them in a crime crème frite (see (see CUSTARD, CUST ARD, Fried drained. custard) flavoured flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Roll in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and fry custar{ hot fat. Drain, and sprinkle sprinkle with sugar. smoking hot in smoking of plum slices of Thread slices Attereaux Victoria Victoria (dessert) (dessert) -- Thread Attereaux of slices of them with slices pudding on the attereaux, alternating them cooking apples which which have been steeped in rum. rum. Dip in egg cooking and Drain, and fat. Drain, and breadcrumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. in smoking and fry and dredge with fine sugar. dredge dipartemenl, where Ard'dche département, AUBENAS -- Small town in the Ardèche the not rival rival the may not truffies they may These, though though they found. These, are found. truffies are flavour of Périgord excellent. P6rigord truffies, are nevertheless excellent. preserves which which are are Marrons glacis are much-prized preserves are much-prized Marrons glacés made at Aubenas. Aubenas.

Varieties aubergines Varietiesofofaubergines 1. 1.Long Barbentane Veryearly earlyBarbentane purple2.2.Very Longpurple

3. 3.Very purple dwarfpurple purple4.4.Very Veryearly earlydwarf roundpurple largeround Verylarge

616l

AUBERGINE AUBERGINE

Aubergines Aubergines Imam Imam Baaldi Baaldi (Robert (Robert Carrier) Carrier)

62 62

AUK

i

added to the the aubergines aubergines before before rubbing rubbing them them through througb the the added to sieve sievewill willgive givethe Ihepur6e puréeaamore more substantial substantial consistency, consistency, and and will will make make ititwhiter. wruler . Peel the auberAubergine salad. sALADE SALADE D'AUBERcINEs D'AUBERGINES -- Peel the auberAubergine salad. gines, 10 stand stand in in aa dish dish with with gines, cut eut into into thin Ihin slices, slices, and and leave leave to salt. la vinaigrette vinaigrelle (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold Cold Sauces), Sauces), sail. Dry, Dry, season season dil Ia and and add add chopped chopped chervil chervil and and tarragon. tarragon. ,l/ote. NOle. This Th.is salad salad can can also also be be prepared prepared with with aubergines aubergines in salted which which have have been been cooked cooked in salted water, water, drained drained and and dried. dried. Peel sic.urEns Saut6ed AUBERGINES SAUTÉES -Peel the the Sautéed aubergines. aubergines. AUBERGINES (l]-inch) square pieces. aubergines 4-cm . (I-t-inch) square pieces . aubergines and and cut eut them them into into 4-cm. Leave dish with with salt. salt. Dry, Dry, dredge dredge with with flour, flour, Leave to to stand stand in in aa dish and or other other fat fat over over brisk brisk heat. heal. and saut6 sauté the the pieces pieces in in oil, oil, butter butter or Serve Serve sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. sounrr6rs Prepare the Aubergire soufflés, AUBERcINES AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES -- Prepare the Aubergine souffies. aubergines in the the recipe recipe fot for Aubergines Aubergines au au aubergines as as described described in gratin. gratin. Rub Rub the the scooped-out scooped-out pulp pulp through through aa sieve. sieve. Add Add an an (see equal of thick thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE) . equal quantity quantity of Bind and aa Bind with with yolks yolks of or egg egg and and season season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and little in whites whites of of liule grated graled nutmeg. nutmeg. At At the the last last moment moment fold fold in egg egg whisked whisked to to aa stiff stift' froth. froth . put into them Fill FiU the the aubergine aubergine skins skins with with the the mixture, mixture, pUI (hem into aa in a moderate cook and dish, fireproof oven for for 8 8 to to 10 10 fireproof dish, and cook in a moderate oven minutes. minutes. Serve Serve at at once. once. sourrrfns AUBERGnTs hongroise. la i soufr6s Aubergire Aubergine soufflés à la hongroise. AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES A À rl LA soNcnolsE HONGROISE - Proceed Proceed as as above, above, adding adding 22 tablespoons lablespoons lightly (3 chopped onion tablespoons) (3 tablespoons) chopped onion lightly fried fried in in butter, bUlter, and and seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. souFFLEEs parmesarL AUBERGINEs au souff6s Aubergine Aubergine soufflés au parmesan. AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES (3 tableAU AU rARMESAN PARMESAN - As As above, above, adding adding 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablefilling. the to cheese grated Parmesan spoons) spoons) grated Parmesan cheese to lhe fiJJing.

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Aubergines Aubergioes au au gratin gratin à lala portugaise portugaise - Method Method as as above. above.

Fill Fi)) the the aubergine aubergine halves halves with with their their chopped chopped pulp pulp to to which which

has an equal equal quantity quantity of of chopped chopped tomatoes tomatoes has been been added added an lightly in butter, butter, chopped chopped onion, onion, parsley parsley and and garlic. garlic . lightly fried fried in cooking as as above. above. Finishcooking Finish Aubergines reine - Method Melhod as as above. ahove. Fill Fil) the the Auberginesau augratin gratiniàlala reineaubergine an aubergine halves halves with with their their chopped chopped pulp pulp mixed mixed with with an equal equaJ quantity quantity of of salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of chicken crucken bound bound with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) thick thick Velouti Velouté s&tce sauce (see (see SAUCE). as above. above . SAUCE). Finish Finish cooking cooking as Aubergines toulousaine- Peel Peel the the aubergines, aubergines, Aubergines au au gratin gratin iIII lata toulousainecut inaa dish dish cut into into thick truck slices, slices, across across or or lengthways, lengthways, and and leave leave in sprinkled pan of of hot hot oil. oil. sprinkled with with salt. salt. Dry, Dry, and and toss toss in in aa pan Arrange in layers layers in in aa fireproof fireproof dish dish in in rows, rows, alternating alternating Arrange in with of tomatoes tomatoes cut eut in in half half and and also also with an an equal equal quantity quantity of tossed in in oil. oil. tossed Sprinkle SprinkJe generously generously with witb freshly freshly grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed Pour on aa little littJe oil oil mixed with wilh chopped chopped garlic garlic and and parsley. parsley. Pour in the the oven. oyen . and brown brown in and This is sometimes somelimes called called aubergines aubergines d ci la ia This dish dish is languedocienne. languedocienne.

Aubergines Aubergioes au gratin ili la la turque turque -- Fill Fill aubergine au bergine halves halves with their chopped pulp quantity of of pulp mixed mixed with with an an equal quantity braised braised chopped mutton, mutton, and rice cooked in in water (taking (taking

in equal equal proportions). proportions). Add Add chopped garlic garlic and parsley, of cayenne. cayenne. Brown the top. top . parsley, and a small pinch of When tomalO sauce round round the When cooked, cooked, pipe pipc a a border horder of tomato au bergines . aubergines. Aubergines Aubergines in in gravy. gravy. AUBERGINEs AUBERGiNES AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed Proceed as as la crème, crime, brut described in the (he recipe recipe given for Aubergines Aubergines d à la but described substitute thickened stock.. substitute truckened veal stock Peel 2 large latge grecque (hors-d'œuvre)Aubergines la grecque Peel 2 Aubergines à la @ors.d'cuwe) cut them in dice or thick truck square pieces. pieces. Throw aubergines; eut prepared as as them, aa few at aa time, them, few at time, into into aa court-bouillon prepared grecque (see (see Ia grecque for Artichokes recipe for in the the recipe described in described Artichokes àd la 12 to for 12 15 to 15 and cook for full boil, and ARTICHOKE). Bring to aa full serve as and serve tenine with the liquor, and minutes.. Transfer into aa terrine minutes an hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'auvre. an Peel the the auberaubercnnrfss-- Peel AUBERGINEs GRILLÉES Grilled aubergines. AUBERGINES GriJled dish in aa dish stand in gines, eut slices, and and leave to stand cut them them ioto into thick slices, grill with oil, oil, and and grill Dry them, salt. Dry them, brush with with salt. well sprink/ed sprinkled wilh well gentle heat. heat. on aa genùe on in aa the aubergines aubergines in arrange the vegetable, arrange serving as as aa vegetable, For serving For tablespoons few tablcspoons with aa few and dab dab with dish, and shape on on aa dish, crown shape crown (see BUTIER). BUTTER). butter (see d'hitel buller Maitre d'hôtel of of MaÎ1re good (Turkish cookery) cookery) --'Take Baaldi (Turkish Imam Baaldi Aubergines Imam 'Take good withlength withentire length their entire them along along their slit them sound aubergines, aubergines, slil sound pulp. Prepare Prepare aa of the the pulp. some of peeling, and out some scoop out and scoop out peeling, out and onions and pulp, tomatoes, tomatoes, onions aubergine pu/p, composed of of aubergine stuffing composed stuffing with aubergines with fill the the aubergines and fill in oil, oil, and mixture in Fry trus this mixture currants. Fry currants. pour in in sufficienl sufficient and pour dish and an earthenwarc earthenware dish Put them them ioto into an it. Put il. bay and aa bay little thyme thyme and Add aa liltle completely. Add cover them them completely. oil oil to to coyer are aubergines are the aubergines low heat heat until until the on low hours on for 33 hours leaf. Cook Cook for leaf. quite soft. cool. Leave to to cool. soft. Leave quite prepare possible, If possi cold. veryco served very beserved should be ish should Id . If ble, prepare 'This 'This ddish be to be aubergines to theaubergines to allow allow the required, to day before before itit isis required, itit the the day oil.' in the the oil.' wellsaturated saturated in weil priest has fainted'.. has fainted' 'the priest means 'the Turkish means Baaldi inin Turkish Imam Baaldi Imam way prepared inin this this way when aubergines aubergines prepared goes that legend goes that when The legend The by somovcd (ptiest), he moved by hewas wasso imam (priest), certain imam to aacertain were offered offered to were sheer from sheer hefainted fainted from that he dish Ihat thedish of the fragrant odour odour of the rragrant the joy. gastronomical joy. gaslronomical Peel (garnish). PURÉE runrnDD'AUBERGINBs pur6e (garnish). Aubergine purée ' AUBERGINES - Peel Aubergine with dishwith leave ininaadish and leave slices, them ininslices cutIhem aubergines, cul iheaubergines, the , and little withaalittle casserolewith covered casserole andcook cook ininaacovered Drythem, them,and salt.Dry sail. pur6e,add add Heat trus thispurée, sieve. Heat Rubthrough throughaasieve. andsalt. salt.Rub butterand butter andserve. serve. butter,and tablespoons) butter. 22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce(see Bichamel sauce ofthick thickBéchamel fewlablespoons tablespoonsof AAfew these lhese ingredients ingredients

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of of the the lowgr This département dipartement is AUDE AUDE -- This is formed formed of low,er part part of always been has good cookery where region a Languedoc, Languedoc, a region where good cookery has always been (which wiJJ found will be specialities (wh.ich the specialities Among the held in in respect. respect. Among be found held cassoulet' well-known cassou is the the well-known order) is alphabetical in their their al phabetical order) leI. in of Castelnaudary Castelnaudary cassoulet of the cassolilet in Aude Aude -- the kinds in are ttwo There are There wo kinds the cassoulet cassoulet is the Another is Carcassonne. Another of Carcassonne. cassoulet of and the the cassoulet and Toulouse. of Toulouse. of introduced white beans, beans, introduced historians, white reliable historians, to reliable According to According long Narbonensis long in Gallia Gallia Narbonensis were cultivated cultivated in Arabs, were the Arahs, by the by The Arabs taught America. from were brought before beans before beans were brought from America. The Arabs taught with white white beans beans prepare aa mutton mutton ragoût ragofit with to prepare the inhabitants inhabitants to the (See present-day cassoulet. cassoulet. (See of the the present-day ancestor of which isis the the ancestor wh.ich the which the dish,, of of which of trus this dish details of further details for further CASSOULET for CASSOULET is understandably region Proud.) regioD is understandably proud.) production of of lIins vins ordinaires and large production has aa large Wines -- Aude Aude has Wines ordinaires and (See LANGUEDOC.) vins d'appellation d' appellation dd'origine. vins 'origine. (See LANGUEDOC.) de comtesse de to lala comtesse household to of the the housebold Head of AUDIGER -- Head AUDIGER of aa author of the author Audiger i5is the to Colbert. Colbert. Audiger later to and later Soissons, and Soissons, The title isis The the translate.d translated tille which the 1692 of of wh..ich published in in 1692 book published book Noblea of Governing Art and the Residence Wett-brdered WeJJ-Ordered Residence and the Art of GOllerning a NobleCountry and Country Town and Gentlemen's Other Gentlemen House and and Other man's man 's House 's Town Domestics inin and Domestics Staff and of Senior Senior Staff Duties of the DUlies and the Residences, and Residences. lord's of aa lord's composition of the composition describes the In ilit hehe describes General. ln General. 'household'. 'household'. pois petits pois across petits came across he came 1660, he Italy Travelling inin Ital Travelling y inin 1660, preand prcwith them them and crate with He filled filled aacraIe growing inin January January. growing . He of sight of at the thesight marvelled at who marvelled court, who French court, to the the French iented itit to sented pe tits pois became so was how That vegetable. an early such such an early vegetable. That was how petits pois became so to made ta effort isis made every effort today every even today whyeven and why fashionable, and rash.ionable, produce them asearly earlyasaspossible. them as Possible. produce The iiI/le little (wk auk family. Alcidae family ofthe the Alcidae ALeuE - - Sea Seabirds birds of AUK. ALQUE . The AUX. grown. ILS Itswings wingsare are (16jnches) fully groWfl. inches) when whenfully 38cm. cm.(/6 measures 38 measures from birdtotoescape escapefrom the bird enables the whichcnables flying, which forflying, equipped for equipped pursuitof hunting il.it. fishermenhunting offishermen thepursuit the frequentlytoto regions,ititisisfrequently Arctic regions, originatingininArctic Although originating Although

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AUNIS AND ANDSAINTONGE SAINTONGE AUNIS be seen autumn and andwinter winteron onthe thecoasts coastsof of England, England, be seen ininautumn Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as Spain, Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as Spain, P-ortugal, Italy and Algeria. Not infrequently it breeds on Portugal, ltaly and Algeria. Not infrequently it breeds on the French ocean coasts. The Icelanders call it alka (aalga) the French oceancoasts. The Icelanders cali it alka (aalga) or klumba. The flesh and fat of these birds are greatly vahied or klumba. The flesh and fat of these birds are greatly valued by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where they by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where they nest. nest.

of which are areused usedfor fordistilling purposes (see distilling purposes (seeCOGNAC). COGNAC). ofwhich Thevineyard vineyardproprietors proprietors of of this this region regionmake make aaliqueur liqueur The winefor for themselves themselves and andtheir their friends, friends, white white or orsometimes wine someiimes red, locally locally ca calledpineau. pouring local made by bypouring local brandy red, lied pineau. ItItisismade brandy on the the must must du during fermentation, which which isis thus thusarrested, arrested. on ring fermentation, preservingail all the the fruit. fruit. preserving

AURILLAC -- Town Town inin the the Auvergne Auvergne region, region, which which isis the AURILLAC the centre of production of of the theproduction of Cantal Cantal cheese. cheese. centre

AttNIS AND SAINTONGE -- The The region resion of of Aunis Aunis has has AUNIS AND SAINTONGE fertile, well-cultivated lands, lands, where where crops itops ofof cereals, cereals, fertile, well-cultivated

AURIOL -- Name Name for for mackerel mackerel in Marseille. in Marseille: AURIOL AUROCHS -- Wild Wildox, ox, ox plains. This ox of of the the plains. This animal, animal, which which AUROCHS past used in the the past used to to be be found found inin the the forests forests of of tempera temperate te in Europe, isis now now only only found, found, and and in in very very small small numbers, numbers, in in Europe, Lithuania, in in the the Carpathians Carpathians and and in in the the Caucasus. Caucasus. Lithuania, The meat meat of of aurochs aurochs isis prepared prepared as as ordinary ordinaiy beef. beef. The (A AURORE L') Name principally to applied principally to aa sauce, sauce, the AURORE (À L') -- Name applied the recipe for for which which isis given given in in the the section section on on sauces; sauces; and and to to ail all recipe the dishes dishes cooked cooked with with this this sauce. sauce. the This name name isis also given to also given to aa dish dish of of stuffed stuffed hard-boiled hard-boiled This (see EGGS, eggs (see EGGS, Aurora Aurora eggs). eggs). eggs The name name also also applies applies to to aa cheese cheese made made in in Normandy. Normandy. The

vegetables and fruit of the first quality are grown. Animals vegetables and fruit of the first quality are grown. AnimaIs raised for food produce meat of excellent quality, including of excellent quality, including raised for food produce meat some very good lamb; and from the neighbouring sea and and from the neighbouring sea and sorne very good lamb; lakes of the region come fish and shellfish acceptable to lakes of the region come fish and shellfish acceptable to gastronomes. gastronomes. Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La Tremblade, and Chdteau d'Ol6ron; they are white, or Tremblade, and Château d'Oléron; they are white, or stained with the fine green weed from the fattening ponds, stained with the fine green weed from the fattening ponds, and are considered the best in the world. The pirtuguese and are considered the best in the world. The Portuguese oysters which are bred here have a specially delicate flavour. oysters which are bred here have a specially delicate flavour. Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Cl6ron and Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Cléron and La Rochelle, cockles cockles which which are are found found in in the the Marennes Marennes La Rochelle, fattening ponds, prawns (salicoques) which are locally fattening ponds, prawns (salicoques) which are locally called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are called boucs. called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are called boucs. La Rochelle, after Boulogne, is the greatest fishing port in La Rochelle, after Boulogne, is the greatest fishing port in France, and among fish found in the region aiJ hake, France, and among fish found in the region are hake, coalfish (U.S. pollock), and sole, which are sold immediatelv coalfish (U .S. pollock), and sole, which are sold immedia tely after being caught. Fresh Fresh sardines, sardines, known known as as Royan Rovan after being caught. sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are also grey sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are also grey mullet (called meuils locally) and brill (U.S. sea perch)-. In mullet (called meuils locally) and brill (U.S. sea perch). In the Charente and Sdvre Niortaise and their tributaries there and Sèvre Niortaise and their tributaries there the Charente are eels which are delicious stewed or m matelote. are eels which are delicious stewed or en matelote. Fruit and vegetables vegetables are particularly good. The garden Fruit and are particularly good. The garden peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety that is canned at peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety that is canned at Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon. Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon. Broad beans from Marennes and the island of Oldron Broad beans from Marennes and the island of Oléron are considered the best in the world. Kidney beans and red are considered the best in the world. Kidney beans and red beans (mogettes') are excellent. beans (mogettes) are excellent. and _ Orchard Orchard and vegetable vegetable garden garden produce produce include include Saintonge Saintonge (nectarines); brugnons brugnons (nectarines); the the apples apples of of Saint-porchaire Saint-Porchaire (reinettes grrses and clochard)which are exported to England; (reinettes grises and clochard) which are exported to England; white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as cipes and oyster white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as cèpes and oyster mushrooms; Saintonge oranges; brunettes; pleurote du mushrooms; Saintonge oranges; brunettes; pleurote du panicot. panicot. The game of this region is of excellent quality. The finest The game of this region is of excellent quality. The finest butter, Which can compare with the best Normandy butter, butter, ~hich can compare with the best Nonnandy butter, is made in Aunis. is made in Aunis. Culinary Mouclade (mussels (mussels dà la la crdme); crème); Culinary specialities specialities -- Mouclade mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters with mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters with sausages; razor-Jish sozp (solen); razor-fish stuffed with sausages; razor-fish soup (solen); razor-fish stuffed with breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic and parsley and browned on top; scallops auxfiies hirbes; and parsley and browned on top; scallops aux fines herbes; ragofrt of lavagnons; small cattlefish fried in deep fat; deepragoût of lavagnons; small cut tlefish fried in deep fat; deepcrameou (crabs fried fried crameou (crabs that that have have shed shed their their shellsf; shells); hake hake soip soup (made with the fish head); chaudrie (fish soup rather liki (made with the fish head); chaudrée (fish soup rather Iike the Breton cotriade); roast eel; fried eels du Mignon. the Breton co triade) ; roast eel; fried eels du Mignon. Special meat and poultry dishes include chickmfricassde Special meat and poultry dishes include chickenfricassée with with onions onions and and potatoes; potatoes; Aunis Aunis civet, civet, which which is is made made of of pig's fry; a salmi of sea birds; vanous charcuterie; rillettes pig's fry; a salmi of sea birds; various charcuterie; rillettes (potted pork); pktds and terrines; btack and white puddings. (potted pork); pâtés and terrines; black and white puddings. Other Other special special dishes dishes of of this this region region include include roast roast garlic, garlic, cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds d Ia cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds à la chardonnette; jonchie (a kind of cream cheese made with chardonnette; jonchée (a kind of cream cheese made with ewe's or goat's milk); vafious fouaces (scones) and coireaux ewe's or goat's milk); variousfouaces (scones) and coireaux (made of maize flour); la fouie (oil seed cake); gLteau (made of maize flour); la fouée (oil seed cake); gâteau d'Assemblie; Easter gdteau; Taillebourg brioches ; grape d'Assemblée; Easter gâteau; Taillebourg brioches; grape jelly; Pons jel/y; Ponsrusks; rusks;Frangipane Frangipane tart. tart. Wines - Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most Wines - Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most

AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIE eusrnaur -- Australian Australian vineyards vineyards and AUSTRALIA. and wines wines (see WINE). WINE). (see AUSTRIA. AUTRICHE AUTRTcHE -- Austrian Austrian wine (see wine and and cuisine cuisine (see AUSTRIA. WINE, INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKER COOKERY). WINE, Y).

Papin Papin marmite marmite or or autoclave autoclave (Conservatoire (Conservatoire des Arts et et Mdtiers. Métiers. Phot. Phot. des Arts JJ Boyer) Boyer)

AUTOCLAVE AUTOCLAVE (Pressure (Pressure cooker) cooker) -- High-pressure High-pressure steam steam vessel. vessel. A A sort sort of ofboiler, boiler, with with very very strong strong walls, walls, which which can can be be closed c10sed hermetically. hermetically. ItIt isis provided provided with with aa safety safety valve, valve, and and isis capable capable of of raising raising the the temperature temperature of of the the water water above above

boiling boiling point. point. No No living living bacteria bacteria can can survive survive the the temperature temperature of of 120"C. 120°C. (248'F.) of time. time. (248°F.) in in aa liquid liquid medium medium over over aa certain certain period period of Thus Thus the the autoclave autoclaveisis used used ininthe thecanning canningindustry industryto to sterilise sterilise food food products products contained contained in in hermetically hermetically sealed sealed cans. cans. (See (See PRESERVATTON PRESER VA TI ON OF OF FOOD.) FOOD.) This This instrument instrument was was invented invented by by Denis Denis Papin, Papin, and and the the original original Papin Papin marmite marmite has has become become popular popular once once again again in in the ofthe thepressure pressurecooker, cooker, which, which, by bybringing bringingfood food to to the form form of aa temperature temperature often often reaching reaching 140'C. 140°C. (284'F.),'makes (284°F.), makes itit possible possibletotocook cookininaavery veryshort shorttime timedishes disheswhich whichwould wouldtake take much much longer longer cooked cooked by by the theordinary ordinarymethod. method. The Theresults, results,though thoughacceptable acceptableininaagood goodmany manycases, cases,are, are, however, however, far far from from being being as as good good as as those those obtained obtained by by the the traditional traditional methods. methods. The The decomposition decomposition of ofcertain certain foods, foods, 64 64

AUVERGNE meat meat in in particular, particular, is is taken taken much much further further than than in ordinary ordinary cooking. cooking. Furthermore, Furthermore, vitamins vitamins can can be be entirely entirely destroyed.

AUTO-INTOXICATION, AUTO-INTOXICATION, DIGESTM DIGESTIVE - This This form form of intoxication, intoxication, due due to to healthy healthy foods foods ingested ingested in in excessive excessive quantity quantity and and subjected subjected to to bacterial bacterial putrefaction putrefaction in in the intestines, not be be confused confused with with alimentary alimentary intoxicaintestines, should shouJd not tion due to to ingestion ingestion of of toxic toxic foods foods or or foods foods which which have have gone gone tion due bad. bad.

AUTRICHIENNE AUTRICHIENNE (A (À L) V) - This This expression is is applied applied to various various preparations preparations characterised, as in the case of those those à la hongroise, hongroise, by being seasoned with paprika, or called d Hungarian Hungarian pepper, pepper, and and sometimes sometimes by the addition addition of of onion, onion, lightly fried, of of fennel fenne! or sour cream. cream. lightly porringer from Auvergne from old old Auvergne and porringer dredger, ewer ewer and Pewter sugar sugar dredger, Pewter

(apricots, peaches, peaches, fruit (apricots, choice dessert fruit of Limagne produce choice important the important pears, cherries) supply the and also also supply cherries) and apples, pears, apples, Auvergne of Clermont-Ferrand. Clermont-Ferrand. Auvergne fruit industry of crystallised fruit are weIl well known. known. chestnuts are and chestnuts walnuts and raised which which pasture lands, are raised lands, oxen oxen are In the mountainous pasture the mountainous In greatly valued, valued, Mutton isis greatly give meat flavour. Mutton of excellent excellent flavour. meat of give and VassiviEres and in Vassivières particularly that sheep raised raised in from sheep that from particularly Chaudesaigues. Chaudesaigues. its delicacy of of its known for for the the delicacy pork of of Auvergne isis known The pork The which can can of charcuterie cftarcuterie which kinds of is made into into many kinds This is flesh. This cities. and other other big big cities. Paris and shops of of Paris be found found in in the the shops be quality of of that that poultry of not have have the the quality region may may not of the the region The poultry The game of good, as of as is is the the game nevertheless good, Bresse, but but itit isis nevertheless raised at at Bresse, raised ground and winged. and winged. both ground Auvergne, both Auvergne, pike perch, tench, tench, pike Carp, perch, fish isis excellent. excellent. Carp, The freshwater freshwater fish The provide ingreingreand provide lakes, and rivers and and lakes, in the the rivers eels abound abound in and eels and the found inin the The trout trout found matelotes. The for succulent succulent matelotes. dients for dients are delicious delicious Marsenac rivers rivers are Murols and and Marsenac Massiac, Aurillac, Aurillac, Murols Massiac, Brioude flesh of of Brioude The flesh prepared au meuniire. The or àd lala meunière. bleu or au bleu prepared salmon. of Loire Loire salmon. with that that of comparable with salmon isis comparable salmon particularly morels, morels, mushrooms, particularly succulent mushrooms, In In the the spring, spring, succulent Auvergne. of Auvergne. and forests forests of woods and gathered in in the the woods are gathered are of this this specialities of The culinary culinary specialities Culinary specialities specialities -- The Culinary potie, There isis the the succulent succulent potée, very numerous. numerous. There region are are not not very region cabwith cabpork as ingredient, with basic ingredient, as aa basic salt pork made of of salt which which isis made potatoes as as acacand potatoes leeks and onions, leeks carrots, turnips, turnips, onions, bage, bage, carrots, The soupe soupe garlic as local touch. touch.The asaa local with garlic and with companiments, companiments, and pot-au-feu, in which aacabbage cabbage in which kind of of rustic rustic pot-au-feu, au au farci farci isis aa kind chopped with chopped flavoured with and flavoured meat and sausage meat stuffed with sausage stuffed with parsley isis cooked. garlic and cooked. garlic and parsiey small largeand and small hams; large are delicious: delicious: hams; The The charcuterie charcuterie are greaves (blood sausage); puddings (blood sausage); greaves black puddings country sausages; black country sausages; pork (q.v.),made kindof of pork ofaa kind madeof (cracklings) ;and (cracklings); andfricandeau fricandeau (q.v.), pork. piece of saltpork. pdti cooked ofsalt pâté thin piece cooked in in aa thin pie made made viande,aapie are tourte tourte àdlalaviande, Among local specialities specialities are Among local pork puffpastry filled with with pork andfilled with puff in pastry and lined with shallow dish, dish, lined inaashallow of made of omelettemade anomelette brayaude, an and omelette brayaude, veal forcemeat; forcemeat; omelette and veal ham potatoes and and diced diced lelean diced potatoes beaten an ham with diced mixedwith beatenegg egg mixed pan, isisfilled with filled with fryingpan, the frying which, over ininthe turned over which, before beforeititisistumed which deSaint-Flour, Saint-Flour, which grated cream;friands de grated cheese and thick thickcream;friands cheese and charcuterie; sellingcharcuterie; shopsselling are Parisianshops theParisian found ininthe arelike like those those found garlic,braised withgarlic, braised studdedwith leg which isisstudded lambbrayaude, brayaude,which legof oflamb wine, whitewine, aromatics inin white with andaromatics vegetables and usual vegetables with the the usual andsometimes sometimes with onions, onions, and and red beans, beans, with with red andserved served with shallow cookedininaashallow with de , potatoes cooked truffade,potatoes cabbage; truffa with braised braised cabbage; garlic,and and- withgarlic, pan flavoured with panwith ofbacon, bacon,fiavoured leanrashers rashers of with lean cheese; Tomme cheese; dicedTomme added fresh diced minute - - fresh last minute added atatthe the last dish vin,aadish pork; coq pickled park; coqau anvin, potatoes Muratpickled potatoeswith with bacon; bacon;Murat Puy-de-D6me isis for thePuy-de-Dôme innsatatthe thetop topofofthe ofthe theinns for which whichone oneof well Saint-Flour. tripouxofofSaint-Flour. wellknown; known; the thetripoux

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AUVERGNE -- There of this this cookery of that the the cookery There isis aa belief belief that region potie, made soup or made of cabbage soup or potée, of of cabbage region consists consists entirely entirely of fresh pork. fresh and and salt salt pork. In dish. Each Auvergnat dish. Each pofte isis not specifically Auvergnat not aa specifically In fact, fact, potée region potie. has its its potée. France, has Ile de de France, including the the Ile of France, France, including region of There potde, aa wonderful dish; the the wonderful dish; There isis the Bourguignonne potée, the Bourguignonne Alsatian as isis that of Cantal; Cantal; po tie which, that of too, isis succulent, succulent,.as Alsatian potée which, too, the potie, which and the the very savoury, savoury, and which isis very Languedoc potée, the Languedoc Parisian potée, which figures daily fare of of the the of fare on the the bills bills of daily on Parisianpalie,whichfigures capital's poties manyother other potées There are, are, besides, besides, many capital's restaurants. restaurants. There in alphafound in in their their alphawhich will will be be found for which in France, France, recipes recipes for betical freshor or are made made of of fresh them are SOUP. Ali All of of them betical order, order, under under SOUP. salt ions, carrots, on onions, pork as with cabbage, cabbage, carrots, element, with salt pork as aa basic basic element, leeks potatoes completing the dish. dish. leeks and and potatoes completing the Auvergne picturesque (for these charmingly picturesque Velay (for these two two charmingly Auvergne and and Velay regions gastronomes offering gastronomes are rural rural areas areas offering regions are are inseparable) inseparable) are wholesome, 'with aastraightstraightcountry cooking cooking'with wholesome, unpretentious unpretentious country forward, (to quote quote Curnonsky). Curnonsky). forward, honest honest flavour' flavour' (to Besides peasant soups like soups like are peasant soup, there there are Besides the the cabbage cabbage soup, mourtayrol, (beef,ham, pot-au-feu (beef, ham, great Auvergnat Auvergnat pot-au-feu mourtayrol, the the great chicken, (chestnut soup); and the cheese the cheese cousinat(chestnut soup);and chicken, saffron); saffron); cousinat soup soup of of Cantal. Cantal. Excellent The orchards orchards grown in in Auvergne. Auvergne. The Excellent vegetabies vegetables are are grown 65 65

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MI'. . Moulihs ou 1ns. .lourte Tou,ce adlata vionde,F"camn. Fricossin, f'ompe P,pmpe aux oux v'ande, Ioguodes mou.',no,ses. moulinoises 0 ~,acconsns. .. Toquades :i Prdlines. Polets d'or -"", : ~W::û,.b~n JA~{;h P,ol,nes. Polers do' BERRY- ~--.Confectione,y. A· to ·coat .lV"--A ~ ~ .! T,uffwes s ~ .,oQ" l S - . ., ~ , 9ALLIER r-SOD (', 1 S. ' k chees : , '" 0"(' ~"CIOU e, 1 n ...; .!>1onlllllll·iiult \l 0 • 1 . /.''''.'' ~~. Rou)adoux ~ yonnade. Pompe aux Tou,ce 0.'0 v,onae ec!.~. • 1 l . • ViireUIlr.s g,al[On'· dIa vola,lIe. F"coss'~/J .1'vt.;ri" S.\(l\ll' n Il J,op'alI'..'se Goune,/e. Sucre de Honey.. ~'7-" 0 ! . _~Jourié' ci la cerises 1 O.' la VO.la;/le Stuffed chicken Stuffed chicken with with ! s~"r6o-fi.IJ chestnuts, Game chestnuts. ~,~, ('('p' "Oi~ Game

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hops, yeast), beer is rich in minerai salts Bz,Brr, PP). Its consumption must be controlled, orrather raihei B 2 , B 12 , PP). Its consumption must be controlled, or drastically reduced, in the case of overweight, gout, and drastically reduced, in the case of overweight, gout, and diabetes, as well as in certain types of dyspepsla. It is recom_ diabetes, as in certain types of dyspepsia. It is recommended as inweil diets for increasing weight, ind for nursing and for nursing mended in diets for increasing weight, mothers, so long as it does not have too strong an alcoholii mothers, sa long as it does not have too strong an alcoholic content. content. Ale, and porter are consumed consumod in in much much greater greater Ale, .stout stout and porter are quantities in Europe than in U.S.A. Some ale is manufaitured quantities in Europe than in U .S.A. Sorne ale is manufactured in the United States, but most American breweries produce a in the United States, but most American breweries produce a

lager beer which is

lighter bodied bodied th thrin the European b.r.op"a, lager beer which is lighter an the varieties. There is a large volume of importing and expoiting varieties. There is a large volume of importing and exporting of beers between Europe and the United States. of beers between Europe and the United States. Barley beer. cpnvons - Decoction of barley, fermented - Decoction of barley, fermented Barley beer. CERVOISE with- yeast perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which with yeast -- perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which produces a kind of barley wine rather than Jbeer. This was produces a kind of barley wine rather than a beer. This was a drink of the ancient Gauls. a drink of the ancient Gauls. Ginger beer. sriRn DE GINGEMBnT - Boil 2t ke. (5 lb.) loaf Ginger beer. BIÈRE DE GINGEMBRE - Boil 2i kg. (5 lb.) loaf sugar, 75 g. (3 oz, * cup) ground ginger and l litres (3 gal_ sugar, 75 g. (3 oz., i cup) ground ginger and 14 litres (3 gallon9, 3f gallons) water for I hour. When cold, add the jriice Ions, 3i gallons) water for 1 hour. When cold, add the juice and thinly peeled rind of 5 lemons. Add cup brewer's yeast and thinly peeled rind of 5 Iemons. Add -!-+ cup brewer's yeast smeared on a piece of toast. Keep in a wooden tub, covered smeared on a piece of toast. Keep in a wooden tub, covered with a thick cloth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a cloth, with a thick c1oth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a c1oth, bottle, and cork securely, tying the corks down bottle, and cork securely, tying the corks down. The beer will be ready for drinking in 4 or 5 days. If a The beer will be ready for drinking in 4 or 5 days. If a stronger brew is desired, add more ginger. st ronger brew is desired, add more ginger. Home-made beer I. nrinn or u6N.l,cn - Boil 2 litres (3* Home-made beer I. BIÈRE DE MÉNAGE - Boil 2 litres (3t pints, 4| pints) ordinary barley n 22 litres (4f gallons, pints, 4t pints) ordinary barley in 22 litres (4i gallons, 66 gallons) gallons) water water for for 22 hours. hours. Add Add 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.\ oz.) hops hops and and g. (t lO 10 g. (1 ^oz-) oz.) chicory, chicory, and and leave leave to to infuse. infuse. Strain, Strain, and and pour pour into (6]-gallon, a 30-litre into a 30-litre (6t-gallon, 8-gallon) 8-gallon) tun. tun. Add Add l* li kg. kg. (2i (2, tb.) lb.) sugar which has been dissolved in l0 litres (9 quarti, I I sugar which has been dissolved in 10 litres (9 quarts, II quarts) water. Mix well. Leave the tun uncovered until the quarts) water. Mix weil. Leave the tun uncovered until the following following day. day. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.) oz.) brewer's brewer's yeast yeast which which has has been been dissolved dissolved inin aa little hot little hot water. water. Stir Stir with with aa stick. stick. Leave Leave the the tun tan open open for for 66 days. days. Add Add more more liquid Iiquid every every morning morning and and evening evening to to replace that lost through fermentation. On the the seventh seventh iav. day, replace that lost through fermentation. On bung the barrel, and bung the barrel, and on on the the eighth eighth day, day, bottle bottle the the beer. beer. Boii Boil the corksininwater waterfor for 55minutes, minutes, and and cork cork the the bottles boules tightly. tightly. thecorks Home-made Home-madebeer beerIL II. srtRE BIÈREor DEMfNlce MÉNAGE-- Boil Boil lm 100E. g. G (4 o;.) oz.) hulled (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2* cups) cups) sugar sugarand and aa hindful handful oi of hulled barley, barley, 500 500g.g. (lS l-top_r i" 4 litres (3] quarts, 4] quarts) water; keep boiling hops in 4 litres (3t quarts, 4t quarts) water; keep boiling for oz.) yeast hour. Remove Removefrom from heat, heat,aaa add tO 10g.g.(*(~oz.) yeastand and td 10 forf1hour. litres I quarts) litres(9(9quarts, quarts,I Il quarts)water. water. Leave bottleand and cork. cork. (A (Alittle little Leavetotoferment fermentfor for44days, days,then thenbottle bu_rnt,sugar burnt sugarmay maybe beadded added totothis this beer beertotogive giveititcolour.) colour.) Mah adding Maltbeer. beer.sriRE BIÈREos DEMALr MALT-- This Thisbeer beerisisobtainod obtainedby byadding concentrated concentratedmalt maltextract extracttotothe thewort wortand andletting Iettingititfermeni ferment slightly. slightly.ItIthas hasmuch muchgreater greaternutritive nutritivepropertieJ propertiesthan than ordi_ ordinary andisisused usedasasaatonic, tonic,ororfor fornuising nursingmothers. mothers. narybeer beerand

Beersoup (Germancookery). sorp(German cookery).SOUPE soupEÀ ALAreBIÈRE sriRE- _Dilute Dilute Beer 150g.g.(5(5oz.) (q.v.)made oz.)light lightroux roux(q.v.) madeofofbutter butterand andflour flourwith with 150 (2fpints, litres(2i pints,3i3{pints) pints)light lightbeer. beer.Mix Mixweil. well.Season Seasonwith with ItlIlitres saltand andpepper pepperand andadd add2 2teaspoons teaspoonsfine finesugar sugarand anda asmall salt small pinchpowdered powderedcinnamon. cinnamon.Bring Bringtotothe theboil, boil,and andsimmer pinch simmerfor for minutes. 2525minutes. B9{oreserving, serving,thicken thickenwith with2 2dLdt.(1(+pint, pint,scant scantcup) Before cup) doublecream. cream.Pour Pourover overthin thinslices slicesofoftoast toastinto intoa asoup double soup tureenwhile whileititisisstill stillboiling. boiling. tureen

BEESTINGS. AMOUILLE .c,MouLr,E- - Name Namecommonly commonlygiven giventotothe BEESTINGS. the firstmilk milkofofa acow cowafter afterparturition. parturition. first BEESWAX. CIRE crRE- - Product Producttransformed transformedfrom fromthe BEESWAX. thehoney honev absorbedby bytheworking the workingbee, bee,which whichitituses usestotoconstruct constructthe absorbed the cellsininhoneycombs honeycombsand andininthe theinterior interiorofofthe thehive. hive. cells Thename namecires ciresvégétales vigitalesisisgiven giventotosubstances substancesextracted The extracted fromcertain certainvegetables, vegetables,ininparticular particularfrom fromcertain certainpalms. palms. from BEET- -See SeeBEETROOT. BEETROOT. BEET

BEETROOT(U (U.S. Beet).BETTERAVE BETTERAVE - - There Thereare aremany BEETROOT .S. Beet). many varieties of plant,sorne ofthis thisplant, somecultivated cultivatedsolely solelvfor varieties fordistillery distillerv purposes, sorne someas asanimal animal foodstuff foodstuff and andsorne, purposes, some,asasininthe thecase casl ofgarden beet,as asvegetable. vegetable. of garden beet, Among bestvarieties the best varietiesof gardenbeetroot of garden Among the beetrootare: are: red red stump-rooted,dark dark red redMassy, Massy, large large red, stum'p-rooted, red,early earlyred globe, redglobe, dark red red turnip-rooted turnip-rooted Egyptian, Egyptian, red globesummer dark beet, redglobe summeibeet, globeearly dark red red globe early beet. beet. dark

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Five varieties variclies of beelmol of beetrool

The The Romans Romans used used beetroot beetroot leaves as a vegetable. vegetable. In Russian cookery cookery both both the the roots and the leaves Ieaves of of beets beets In Russian are are used, used, notably notably for for various soups soups (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Beetroot Beetraot soup soup dà la la Russe). Russe). Beetroot Beetroot in in hors-d'euyre hors-d'œuvre is refreshing refreshing and increases increases the the appetite appetite but but is is not not recommended recommended for for sufferers sufferers of of dyspepsia dyspepsia and and colitis, colitis, since since itit is is inclined inclined to to be be indigestible indigestible and it, its cellulose "rra cellulose fibres fibres can can cause cause flatulence. flatulence. For For information information on on sugar sugar beet, beet, see see SUGAR. SUGAR. Beetroot Beetroot leaves Ieaves are are perfectly perfectly edible, edible, and and are are used used in in manv many recipes. recipes. In In France France the the roots, roots, boiled boiled or or baked, baked, are are used used as as garnish garnish for for salads, salads, hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre and and various various game game entries. entrées. Wash Washand and scrub scrubthe thebeets beetswith withaa brush. brush. Dry Dry tlem them and and bake bake in in the. the oyen. They They are are ready ready when when they they bLgin begin to to .give, 'give' aa -oven. little, pressed with with aa finger. finger. Keep Keep in in aa cool cool place. place. little, ififpressed Beet Beet i à l'anglaise. l'anglaise. BETTERAvEs BETTERAVES A À I'aNGLArsp L'ANGLAISE _ - Choose Choose tender tender beets, beets, peel, peel, cut cut into into slices slices and and boil boil in in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain,dry dryand and serve servewith with fresh fresh butter. butter. l18 118

sf,NEotcrN BÉNÉDICTIN Beetroot Beetrooti illalab6chamel. béchamel.srlrBRA.vES SETTERA VESAALA LAntcruurr BÉCHAMEL- - Bake Ba ke

22beets beelSinin the the oven, oyen, peel, peel, and and cut eut into into fairly fairly thick lhick slices. slices.

Simmer sautépan panwith wÎth22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3 tabletableSimmergently ininaasaut6 spoons) pinehofofsalt. salt. spoons)butter and andaapinch To Ta serye, serve, cover caverwith wîth not nOI too too thick thick Bichamel Béchamelsauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), whichbutter butlerhas hasbeen beenadded. added. SAUCE),to(0which Beetroot cream.BETTERAvEs BETTERA VESAÀr.l LAcntue CRÊME-- Stew Stewslices slicesof of Beetrootinincream. beet beetininbutter. butter. Dilute Dilutethe thepan panjuices juieeswith with44dl. dl.(f(tpint, scant scant

22 cups) ClipS) pre-boiled pre-boîled cream. cream. Cook Cook down down by by half,

season, season, remove 50 g. g. Q (2 oz., oz., Il cup) cup) butter, butter, and and remove from from heat, heat, blend blend inin 50 pour pourover overthe the beets. beets. Beetroot garllish. BETTERAvES BITTERA VES PouR POlSR GARNITURES GARNITVRES -Beetmot for for garnish. Choose Choosewell-shaped, well-shaped, uniformly unifonnlysized sized beetroot. beetrooL Bake Dake them theminin the the oven, oyen, allow allow to to become becorne quite quite cold, cold, and and peel. peel. Cut Cut into into slices or dice, d ice. or or shred sh red into in 10 aajulienne. julienne. slices or Prepared Prepa re
Season it with very large floury potatoes' this thisdish.) dish.)Cover Coyer it with very potaloes. top' a lid onSeason fat or butter' Place with sprinkle und it.r. a lid on top, these and sprinkJe with fat or flour-and-water paste' Bake in cinders a wlttr it r"uii"g sealing il with a ftour-and-water paste. Bake in cinders glowing charcoal for 4 to 5 hours' Serve in the mixeiwith mixed with charcoal for 4 to 5 hours. Serve in the cooked' in which it has been recbptacle reœptacle in has beell cooked. See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY' BELGIUM RELGIUM- - Sec INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. dessert pear An excellent winter BELLE-ALLIANCE BELLE-ALLlANCE -- An excellent winter dessert pear January). The skin is yellowish on one side and ip"".*U". (Oecember and January). The skin is yellowish on one side other. and and red redon on the the other. Variety of large winter pear' Its skin BELLE-ANGEVINE BELLE-ANGEVINE-- Variety oflarge winter pear. Ifs skin becomes bright yellow, flushed with red ir!t.* is green atatfirst, tirsl,then then becomes brîght yellow, l1ushoo wilh red brown. and and pitted with wi th brown. in February and March, is better to This pear, in season season in February and March, is beUer to pear, in eat, and is used mostly for.filling decorative to atlhan look look at than 10 cat, and is used mostly for filling decorative fruit. baskets of fruit. baskelS of Variety of peach, with bright red BELLE-CHEVREUSE BELLE-CHEVREUSE --of pcach, with red be eaten when it is just ripe; when it is too It should skin. skin. It should be eaten when il just ripe; when is too becomes'sleePY'. flesh its ripe, ripe, its ftesh becomes ·sleepy'. Another name for a variety of pear BELLE-DE-BERRY BELLE-DE-BERRY -- Another name for a variety of pear poire de curi' called called poire de curé. Pear with mediocre flesh, usually BELLE-ET-BONNE BELLE-ET-BONNE -- Pear with mediocre flesh, usually in syrup or red wine. cooked cooked in syrup or red wine.

Peach which ripens in September and BELLE-GARDE BELLE-GARDE -- Peach which ripens in September and Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for October. October. Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for in and compotes pastry-making. compotes and in Pastry-making. of very large fig, which grows in variety A BELLONE large fig, which grows in BELLOI'\'E - A variety of These figs are used for preserves' Provence. Provence. These figs are used preserves. in Brittany. The oysters of the beds there BELON BELON -- River River in Brinany. The oysters of the beds there same name. bear the bear the same name. sA'TTHAZAR - Colloquial usage for copious BELSHAZZAR. BALTHAZAR BELSHAZZAR. -- Colloquial usage for copious the famous feasts mentioned in the to the an allusion allusion to meals; famous feasts mentîoned in the meals; an Bible. Bible. Huso) - The white sturgeon of the Bjack BELUGA (Huso Huso) - The white sturgeon of the Black Sea and other waters' It is the largest of the Caspian Sea, Sea, Sea and other wa lers. ft is the largest of the producing the best caviafe' sturgeon family, sturgeon family, producing the bcsl caviare. a variety of ortolan found in the for Local name BENARI -- Local BÉNARI name for a variety ofinortolan found in the They are fattened the same way as the district. They Languedoc district are fattened in the same way as lhe ortolans. For methods of preparation see district ortolans. Landes district For methods of preparation see ORTOLAN. ORTOLAN. (Cake) - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9 oz., BENEDICTIN (Cake) BÉNÉDICTIN - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9 oz., 2! cups) ground almonds, 250 g- (9 oz., generous cup) fine 2!.igut, j *ttot" eggs almonds, 250 g.yolks. (9 OZ.,When the mixture cup) flneis and 12 egg the mixture is sugar, eggs and 12 egg yolks. add 2 more eggs, one by one. Mix well, and add I r-toih, smooth, add 2 more eggs, one by one. 100 Mix g. well, and add 1 (4 oz, tablespoon Benedictine liqueur; and :"p) tablespoon Benedictine liqueur; andpotato 100 g.flour (4 OZ., 1I cup) have which sieved flour, and 100 g. (4 oz',3 sieved Oour, and 100 (4 oz., ",-tp) potato flour which have been first sieved together. been flfst sieved baking tins, sprinkle with flour, and 611 lvvs-lhirds Butterbakîng Butter sprinkle with flour, and fil] two-thirds full with the caki mixtuie. Bake in an oven at 180'C. (350'F., full with the cake mixture. Bake in an oven at 180°c' (350°F., Gas Mark 4). Remove cakes from the tins as soon as they are Gas Mark 4): Remove cakes from the tins as soon as they are and cool on a flat wire rack. Sprinkle each cake with baked baked and cool on a flat wire rack. each cake with Benedictine, and when this is absorbed, cover the tops and coyer' the IOps and Benedictine, and when this is sides of the cakes with thick apricot jatn. Decorate the sides of the cakes with thick apricot jarn. Decorale the sides sides withchopped chopped roasted almonds. with roasted almonds. Ice the top of the cakes with pale yellow fondanticingwhich lce the top of the cakes with pale yellow been flavoured with Benedictine, and when it is sel make has has been flavoured with Benedictine, and when il is on it with mauve fondant icing, using a patternofof squareson a apattern it wÎlh mauve fondant a square with half a each the centre of forcing-bag. Decotate the a forcing-bag. centre of each square pistachio nut. pistachio nuL The same mixture can be used for small iced petits fours' smaU but iced is petits fours.in The same mixture can be use FRITTERS. SCC FRITTERS. BEIGNETS -- See BEIGNETS (18 oz., oz.' 33] 500 g. (18 Pound 500 (petits fours) fours) 1I -- Pound Beignets Beignet .. (petits t cups) sugar and 55 (18 OZ., cups) sugar oz., 2] cups) 500 g.g. (18 with almonds wi blancfied almonds blanched th 500 whites. egg whites. egg or orange or vanilla' orange with vanilla, flavour with and flavour whole eggs, eggs, and Add 22 whole Add with Colour with pineapple. COIOUf crystallised pineapple. peel, or shredded cryslallised or shredded lemon peel, lemon Fold inin J16 agent. Fold colouring agent. or green vegetable colouring carmini or 6 carmine and buttered and into bUHered and spoon spoon into egg whites, and stiffiy whisked egg stiffly candied piecesof of candied with pieces Decorate with moulds. DecoraU! petits fours moulds. flouied petilsfours f10ured and bake bake ininaa icing sugar sugarand with iCÎng pineapple. Sprinkle Sprinkle with or pîneapple_ orange or orange oven. slowoyen. slow cups) oz, Illf cups) 250g.g-(9(9oz., Pound together 250 Beigneb IItr --- Pound generous cup) cup)sugar. sugar' oz.,generous and 250 g_g.(9(9oz., almonds and blanched almonds egg' whole egg. onewhole blend ininone andblend mixtureand themixture egg white white totothe Addone oneegg Add with vanilla. vanilla. Flavour with Flavour into a very stifffroth and fold them into whites into eggwhites Whisk88cgg Whisk with sprinkle with moulds,sprinkJe into small biscuit moulds, Spooninto mixture.Spoon themixture. the oven. slowoyen. andbake bakeininaaslow sugar,and icingsugar, icing

historyofof thehistory goesfar backininthe farback thatgoes dish,har BEILCI{E - - AAdish BElLCHE caisine. Germancuisine. German surMakesurbeef.Make roundofofbeef fatfrom froma around thefat andremove remove[he Trimand Trim notbebe (theseculS mustoot cutsmust overitit(these cross-wise ailallover incisionscross-wise faceincisions face pepperand and withsalt, salt,pepper incisionswith theincisions insidethe Seasoninside deep).Season toodeep). too spices. spices. (In pan'(ln cast-ironpan. largeterrine terrineOforcast-iron beefinina alarge thebeef Placethe Place for employedfor usedtotohebeemployed receptableused silverrcceptable Germany,a aspecial specialsilver Germany, 119 119

BENEDICTINE BENEDICTINE

(Erit") -- Famous BERNARD (Émile) Famous nineteenth nineteenth century century chef chef BERNARD employed by by Wilhelm Wilhekn l,I, King King of of Prussia. Prussia. In In collaboration employed collaboration with Urbain Urbain Dubois Dubois he he wrote wrote one one of of the the best best cookery cookery books with books period: Cuisine of the the period: Cuisine classique. classique. of

BENEDICTINE. BÉNÉDICTINE s6NforcrrNE -- Renowned Renowned French French liqueur liqueur BENEDICTINE. invented by by the Benedictine monks the Benedictine monks at at the Abbey of F6camp, the Abbey of Fécamp, invented produced there. and still still produced there. and BENfDICTII\B (À (A LA) LA) -- Garnish poached fish Garnish suitable suitable for for poached fish BÉNÉDICTINE or eggs, eggs, composed composed of (q.v.) of of aa brandade brandade (q.v.) of cod cod and and truffies. truffies. or Salt cod cod ài la h bénédictine. benedictine. MORUE uonun Ài, LA L,c, BÉNÉDICTINE sfNEorcrrNE -- The The Salt pounded as cod isis pounded as for for brandade, brandade, but potatoes but mixed mixed with with potatoes cod prepared as (See SALT pur6e. (See as for for purée. SALT COD.) COD.) prepared

(A LA) BERRICHONNE (À LA) -- Garnish Garnistr used for large used for large cuts cuts of BERRICHONNE of meat and and especially especially for for mutton. mutton. ItIt isis composed composed of meat of braised braised cabbage, sm small onions, chestnuts chestnuts and and rashers rashers of cabbage, ail onions, of streaky streaky bacon. bacon. BERRY -- The The richest producing region richest sheep sheep producing region of But of France. France. But BERRY lamb and and mutton mutton are are not not the gastronomic assets the only only gastronomic assets of of lamb Berry. The province has The province has always always had had aa reputation reputation for for bonne Berry. bonne produces many chCre and and, produces many other other delicacies, delicacies, solid solid and liquid. and liquid. chère The cuisine cuisine of of the the Berry Berry region region has has an an agreeable agreeable simplicity. simplicity. The poultry of There is is the good ground the fine fine poultry ground and Bourges, good of Bourges, and winged winged There game, aa great great variety variety of freshwater fish, of freshwater including Vierzon fish, including Vierzon game, lamprey, and and excellent excellent fruit and and vegetables. vegetables. lamprey,

Joseph Berchoux (l 765-l 839) Berchoux (1765-1839) Joseph

(Joseph) -- French BERCHOLIX (Joseph) French poet, poet, born born at at SaintBERCHOUX (Loire) in Symphorien-de-Lay (Loire) in 1765, 1765, who who made made aa name name for for Symphorien-de-Lay gastronomical literature himself in in gastronomical literature with poem entitled with aa poem entitled la Ia himself Gastronomie, published published in in 1800. 1800. Berchoux was not Gastronomie, Berchoux was not a gastronome, but poem was his poem but his was valued valued for for its its zest zest and and lightligbtgastronome, hearted, witty witty tone, tone, and and was was included included in in aa volume of volume of hearted, gastronomic writers quality of writers of of the the quality of Grimod Grimod de de la Reynière Reynibre gastronomic and Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, published Charpentier in in 1829 l82g and published by by Charpentier under the les Classiques Classiques de de la la table. table. under the title title les

Argenton-sur-Crelx Argenton-sur-Creuse (French (French Government Government Tourist Tourisi Ofice) Office) Bergamot

Cufinavy Culinary specialities specialities - These include include soups SOUps with truches or tartouffes (potatoes), (potatoes), with reuves and salt pork; sanguine, a kind of pancake pancake made made with with chicken's chicken's blood; blood; various various kind of matelotes; citrouillat (pumpkin (pumpkin pie); pie); sauciaux, a a peasant pancake; pancake; truffiat, home-made potato scone; scone; grignaudcs,flat grignaudes, fiat cakes gs; poulet cakes made made of of pork pork greaves greaves or or cracklin cracklings; poulet en en barbouille, barbouille, chicken chicken coated coated with with its its own own blood; matafan, pancake; pancake; potato potato gouere gouère or or gouiron. gouéron. Wines Wines - Wine Wine connoisseurs connoisseurs have have a high high regard regard for for the the wines of this this region. region. And, And, indeed, indeed, the the very very dry dry white white wines wines wines of of of Berry Berry have have every right right to to be be acclaimed for for their their delicacy delicacy and and bouquet. bouquet. They They all ail come come from from the the Sauvignon grape. grape. Then Then there there are are the the Sancerre Sancerre wines wines from from the the vineyards vineyards surrounding surrounding the the town town of of that that name name (immortalised (immortalised by by Balzac) Balzac) and and those those in in the the neighbouring neighbouring communes, communes, particuparticularly Champtin, Saint-Satur, Saint-Satur, M6n6trol, Ménétrol, larly Bu6, Bué, Verdigny, Verdigny, Champtin, Reigny, Reigny, Sury-en-Vaux. Sury-en-Vaux. The The hamlet hamlet of of Chavignol, Chavignol, near near Sancerre, Sancerre, produces produces famous famous wine wine which which the tbe poet poet Hugues Hugues l,apaire, Lapaire, a a native native of of Berry, Berry, placed placed far far above above the the rest. rest. Chavignol Chavigno! was was also also highly highly esteemed esteemed by of Nohant Nohant -- George George by Balzac Balzac and and by by the the 'bonne 'bonne dame' dame' of Sand. Sand.

of

BERGAMOT BERGAMOT ORANGE. ORANGE. BERGAMoTE BERGAMOn: - Fruit Fruit of the the bergamot bergamot tree, tree, aa kind kind of of orange orange with with avery a very acid acid but but pleasant pleasant taste. The highly highly scented scented oil oil extracted from from its its rind rind is is used used taste. The in in perfumery, perfumery, pharmaceutics pharmaceutics and and confectionery. confectionery. Candied Candied bergamot is used bergamot peel peel is used in in phtisserie. pâtisserie. The The bergamots bergamots of of Nancy Nancy are are the the most most sought sought after after in in confectionery. confectionery . BERGAMOT BERGAMOT PEAR. PEAR. BERcAMoTE BERGAMOTE -- Name Name applied applied to to several severa! varieties of pear. pear. The The bergamote bergamote d'automne d'automne is is the the best. best. varieties of BERLINGOTf BERLINGOT -- A A hard, hard, sweet sweet candy candy variously variously flavoured, fiavoured, but of France France have have but usually usually with with peppermint. peppermint. Several Several regions regions of their of berlingots; berlingots; those those of of Carpentras Carpentras their own own special special variety variety of are are renowned. renowned. t20 120

BEVERAGE BEVERAGE

GAHE

Goat's Milk

Bgul, VierZOn Watnuts S I Melons Lamprey C H ER \ Crayfish. Coq ou vin. SheeP' [::'giti:.T*"6jj' j"j lFrffi // Confectioherv, Beer l

MARCHE of Berry Gastronomic map or Gastrollomie Berry

proportion of in tbe the of water re-establistr normal normal proportion maintain or or re-establish maintain watcr in organism. 70 per cent water, approximately 70 Our bodies bodies con contain Our Iain approximately (5{ pints, 6} pints). litres (Si of 33 litres eliminating daily an average of daily an eliminating considerable degree, to aa C01nsi,cler'able When the water water content content is When is lowered to have to to replace We therefore therefore have results. We the sensation sensation of of tbirst thirst results. the which contain a foods whieh partly by water eliminated, solid foods by solîd the watcr eliminated, partly the of water, partly by liquids. considerable proportion ofwater, considerable have been been "'VG'''''''invented. Apart from milk Numerous beverages have Numerous are (q.v.) which liquid food, beverages are is considered aa liquîd which is (q.v.) classified in 6ve five ...categories: classitied "t'p(1,n.n."" waters (see WATER). Pure water water and mineral mineral waters 1.l. Pure (see INFUSIONS, INFUSIONS' 2. Aromatie Aromatic and and stimulating stimulating infusions (see 2. TE.!t) UEtf, TEA) dHOCOTAiN, MATÉ, HERBAL TEAS, TEAS, COFFEE, COFFEE, CHOCOLATE. HERBAL Bavarian these: Bavarian preparations based on these: based on as well well as as various various preparations as (dealt with alphabetical in alphabetical with in etc. (dealt bishop, etc. creams, iecd iced coffee, coffee, bishop, creams, order). by juices, freshly modified by not modined and not extracted and freshly extracted 3. Fruit juices, state in their their pure state either in drunk either fermentation, whlch which are are drunk fermentation, (lemonade, juice), or (grape juice), sugar (Jelm01naoe, water and with water and sugar or mixed mixed with (grape orangeade, etc.). etc.). orangeade, wine; which tSis winc; principal of of whieh 4. Fermented the principal Fermented beverages, beverages, the 4. liqueurs fruit liqueurs various fruit perry, hydromel and various hydromel and then beer, beer, eider, cider, perry, then large anotler large (dealt with There isis another order). There with in in alphabetical alphabetical order). (dealt as to as referred to group of beverages, refeITcd compound beverages. fermented or or compound of fcnnented group section. in this this section. found in will he be found which wjll economical or or medieinaL medicinal, whieh economieaJ and mixtures, and or mixtures, Fermented and and distilled distilled beverages or S.5. Fermented (dealt with with inin al· alpreparations based alcoholic drinks (dcalt based on on alcoholic phabetical order). normal The normal of beverages beverages - The temperature of Quantity and temperarure nature, the the to their their nature, according to varies according beverages varies intake of beverages

fish and and with with seafood, wines are seafood, fish are perfect with These wines with the are best best drunk the region. They are cheese of of the celebrated celebrated goat chccse slightly chilled. produced in in ros6 is is also also produœd and fruit fruity dry and An y rosé An excellent excellent dry good viotage grape. ln vintage In aa good Pinot grape. from the the black black Pinot Sancerre Sancerre from year aa very source. good red comes.from the same same source. red wine wine cornes' very good year from the which gives near Sancerre, Sancerre, which is Menetou-Salon, near Then there is Then there already mentioned. Still in the to those already white white wines wines similar similar to some white wines of almost département dipartement of of Cher, Cher, at Quincy, sorne produced. quality are equally fine fine quality are produced. wine isis beginning beginning to Term indicaling indicating that that aa wine BESAIGRE -- Tcrm SESAIGRE tum turn sour. sour. and for salted salted and and Franche-Comté Franche-Comt6 for in the SESJ BESI -- Name Name in the Jura Jura and generic term for aa variety variety of of term for is also also aa generie drîed cow's meat. meat. ItIt is dried cow's pear. pear. rousette d'Anjou. pear, also d'Aniou. called rouselte also calle
-

wild to descrihe describe aa wild in France France to Term used used in StTE BETE ROUSSE ROUSSE -- Term year old. boar months to to one one year old. boar six six months pear. There varieties, There are are many many varicties, BEURRÉ dessert pear. BEURRE -- JuÎey Juicy dessert nouveanr, gns and d'hiver nouveau, and beurré beurrC d'hiver among which are arc beurré beurrC gris among whieh beurri and February; February; beurré in January January and whieh reach maturity maturity in which reach ripe Gifard, ripe beurr| Giffard, Novembet; beurré and November; Cappiannonf, Cappiannonf, Oetober October and beurrC Die!. Diel. and beu.rré at of July, at the the end end of July, and

-

to mouth to the mouth by the Liquid taken taken by BEVERAGE. BoIssoN -- Liquid BBVERAGE. BOISSON

t2l 121

BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS DIETETICS BEVERAGES requirements of of the the organism, organism, outside outside temperature temperature and and requirements state of of health. health. Excessive Excessive intake intake of of liquids liquids diminishes diminishes state appetite and and impedes impedes digestion. digestion. In In sorne some cases cases itit isis advisable advisable appetite increase the to increase intake of the intake liquids in of Iiquids in order order to to improve improve eliminaeliminato tion and and cleanse cleanse the the organism. organism. In In others, others, itit isis advisable advisable to to tion reduce the intake of the intake liquids. of liquids. reduce Should beverages beverages be be taken taken with with meals meals or or inin between between Should meals? Man Man alone alone drinks drinks wbile while eating; eating; other other animais animals meals? separate their their solid solid feeding feeding from from absorption absorption ofliqu.ids. of liquids. Halfa Half a separate (scant pin litre (scant pint,2t cups) water water drunk drunk on on an an empty empty stomach stomach litre t, 2* cups) leaves itit in in less less than than half half an an hour. hour. The The water water would would remain remain in in leaves the stomach stomach much much longer longer if if accompanied accompanied by by other other food. food. A A the meal eaten eaten without without drinking drinking isis digested quicker and digested quicker and better. better. It It meal advisable, therefore, therefore, in people suffering in diets diets for for people suffering from from isis advisable, dyspepsia and and enteritis enteritis to to separate separate the the intake intake qf o.f solids solids and and dyspepsia liquids. They They should should drink drink an an hour hour or or so so before before the the meal, meal, so so liquids. as to to ensure ensure that that the the stomach stomach is is empty empty in in time time for for sol solid food. as id food. The result result will will not not be be the the same if the same if the liquid taken after after the the liquid isis taken The meal; the the stomach stomach will will be be full, full. and and the conditions will be the condi be the the meal; tions will same as as when drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy same wb en drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy people, however, provided the however, provided the amount amount of of drink drink taken taken is is not not people, so excessive as to impede digestion, the above does not apply. so excessive as to impede digestion, the above does not apply. Too much much meat, meat, highly highly spiced spiced dishes dishes and and the the excessive excessive Too use of of salt, salq considerably considerably increases increases the the sensation sensation of of thirst. thirst. use Diet consisting consisting mainly mainly of of vegetables, vegetables, containing containing little little salt, salt, Diet provoke thirst does not not provoke thirst so much. so much. does Moderately wann warm beverages beverages dilate dilate the the blood blood vessels vessels of of Moderately the stomach, stomach, are are better better absorbed, absorbed, and quench thirst and quench thirst the efficiently. If If too too cold, cold, they they cause cause the the contraction contraction of of the the efficiently. abdominal capillary capillary system, system, and and may lead to to disorders, disorders, at at abdominal may lead times of of aa serious nature: colic, serious nature: precordial anxiety, colic, precordial anxiety, and and even even times (loss of syncopes (Joss ofconsciousness ofblood consciousness from from fall fall of blood pressure). pressure). syncopes These disorders disorders are are more more likely one drinks drinks aa These likely to to occur occur if if one quantity of quickly. To of cold cold liquid To prevent such occurrences, occurrences, Iiquid quickly. prevent such quantity sportsmen are are advised advised to hot beverages after violent sportsmen to drink drink hot beverages after violent exercise. Such accidents occur less exercise. Such accidents occur less frequently frequently with with iced drinks, because can only only be swallowed in sips. drinks, because these these can be swallowed in small small sips. The palate's of beverages The palate's reaction reaction to to various various temperatures temperatures of oeverages varies varies according according to to their their nature. nature. Below Below 6" 6° to to 8.C. 8°e. (43. (43° to 47"F.) of being being ice-cold; ice-cold; it it is is 47°F.) water water gives gives the the impression impression of pleasantly pleasantly cool cool at at 12"C. 12°e. (54"F.), (54°F.), it it becomes becomes warm wann and unpleasant 25"C.-(77"F.) unpleasant at at l6'C. 16°e. (61'F.), (61°F.), and and at at 25°C: (77°F.) it it is is too hot hot for for most most people. people. Aerated Aerated water water seems seems colder colder than tban ordinary ordinary water water at at 6"C. 6°e. (43'F.) (43°F.) owing owing to to the the release release of of carbon carbon dioxide, and remains dioxide, and remains cold cold up up to to lO'C. 10 e. (50"F.), (50°F.), becoming becoming pleasantly pleasantly cool cool up up to to l7'C. 17°e. (62"F.). (62°F.). The The temperature temperature of of milk milk at at the the farm farm immediately immediately after after milking milking varies varies between between 33" 33° and and 34'C. 34°e. (91" (91° and and 93"F.). 93°F.). When heated (131" 55° to to 56'C. 56°e. (l31° to to 133.F.) 133°F.) itit seems seems very When heated to to 55" hot hot and and causes causes perspiration. perspiration. Wines. Wines. The The best best temperature temperature for for an an average average white wbite wine wine is is about about l0'C. 10 e. (50'F.). (50°F.). Some Sorne wines, wines, such such as as Sauternes, Sauternes, can can be be (frappis). chilled chilled (frappés). Sparkling Sparkling wines wines should should only only be be cooled cooled by by ice, ice, without without adding adding salt salt (often (often an an expedient expedient in in aa restaurant restaurant for for clients clients who who are are in in aa hurry). hurry). These These wines wines lose lose aa great great deal deal of of their their quality at a temperature (43"F.). below 6"C. 6°e. (43°F.). Red Red wines, wines, quality at a temperature below especially especially the tbe great great wines wines of ofBordeaux, Bordeaux, are are served served chambris chambrésbrought brought slowly slowly to to room room temperature temperature (16o (16° to to 18"C., 18°e., 61" 61° to to 64"F.). drunk at at aa cooler cooler temperature, temperature, 64°F.). Burgundy Burgundy wines wines are are drunk and and light light white white wines wines are are served served cold. cold.

Generally speaking, speaking, aa man man absorbs absorbsinin twenty-four twenty-four hours hours Generally as many many cubic cubic cm. cm. of water as of water as he he ingests ingests calories. calories. The The need need as for water water isis related related to to the the chemical chemical composition composition of of the the diet. diet. for protein-rich diet requires aa considerable diet requires considerable hydrous hydrous intake. intake. AA protein-rich

FERMENTED BEVERAGES. BEVERAGES. BOISSONS nolssoNs FERMENTÉES rprurmurErs -- The The FERMENTED manufacture of of fennented fermented drinks drinks demands demands aa series of operaoperaseries of manufacture tions, often often complicated. complicated. Spontaneous Spontaneous fennentation fermentation of tions, of grapes, apples, apples, oranges, pineapples may oranges, pineapples may have produced aa have produced grapes, pleasant drink drink by by chance; chance; but but chance chance does not account account for does not for pleasant the alcoholic alcoholic fennentation fermentation of of cows', cows', mares' mares' and and she-camels' she-camels' the milk, which which does does not not take place of take place its own of its own accord. accord. Still Still milk, more curious, curious, historically historically speaking, speaking, isis the the transfonnation transformation more of cereal cereal crops crops into into fermented fermented liquor. liquor. Small Small tribes tribes in in the the far far of past, having having neither neither fruit fruit nor nor milk milk nor nor cereals cereals at at their their past, disposal, managed produce an managed to to produce an intoxicating intoxicating beverage beverage disposai, from the the tubers tubers of of cassava cassava or potatoes. The or sweet sweet potatoes. The use use of of from fermented liquors liquors appears appears to peculiar to to be be aa need need peculiar mankind. to mankind. fennented

0

Cabaretier selling drinks

,",n"31,1il!5f lf lll,1i,o,l8,'r-,r, in the seventeenth century (Guérard)

Barley Barley cordial. cordial. BorssoN BOISSON D'oRcE D'ORGE - Put Put 5CI 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) ordinary ordinary barley barley and and 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) couch grass grass into into 20 20 litres litres (4] (41 gallons, gallons, 5] 5t gallons) gallons) water. water. Boil. Boil. Add Add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz) oz.) liquorice Iiquorice cut cut into into small small pieces. pieces. Leave Leave to to get get cold, cold, strain, strain, and and bottle. bottle. Barley EAU D'oRGE D'ORGE -- Pour Pour boiling boiling water water on on aa handhandBarley water. water. EAU ful fui of of barley barley and and bring bring to to the the boil boil again. again. Pour Pour off off the the water water and 15 to to 20 20 and replace replace with with boiling boiling water, water, this this time time boiling boiling for for 15 minutes. minutes. IfIf pearl pearl or or hulled hulled barley barley is is used, used, I1 tablespoon tablespoon per per litre litre (scant (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) water, water, there there isis no no need need to to boil boil itit in Cook the the barley barley until until the the grains grains split. split. in two two waters. waters. Cook Cider Cider type type tlrink. drink. BorssoN BOISSON FAgoN FAÇON crDRE CIDRE -- Blend Blend llIl litres litres (2| (21 gallons, gallons, 33 gallons) gallons) water, water, I1 litre litre (If, (li- pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) double double !eer, ~eer, l0 10 g. g. (* (t oz.) oz.) citric ci tric acid acid and and aa large large glass glass brandy. Decant into into bottles bottles and and tie tie down down the the corks. corks. brandy. Stir Stirwell. weil. Decant This Thisdrink drink will will be be ready ready for for use usein in 55to to 66days' days' time. time.

0

BEVERAGES BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS. DIETETICS. sorssoN BOISSON rN EN orertrreuE DIÉTÉTlQUEBeverages Beverages are are of of supreme supreme importance importance in in dietetics. dietetics. Water, Water, man's natural beverage, is man's natural beverage, is essential essential to to him. him. ItIt isis possible possible to to go go up up to to forty fort y days, days, and and even even more, more, without witbout eating eating ifif one one drinks of water; water; being being deprived deprived of of itit leads leads drinks large large quantities quantities of to to death. death. r22 122

BEVERAGES BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS DIETETlCS and and 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 o2.,6 oz., 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar, sugar, and and stir stir well. well. Leave Leave to ta stand stand for for 24 24 hours, hours, then then filter. tilter. Honey Honcy water. water. slu EAU I\,IIEIIEE MlELLÉE -- Dissolve Dis, aa refreshing refreshing drink drink but but does does not not keep. Hop Hop drink. drink. BoIssoN BorSSON AU AU HouBLoN HOUBLON - Put into into a a 20-litre 20-litre ($-gallon,5fgallon) cups) sugar, crock I1 ke. (2i (4}-gaUon, lb., sugar, 22 Qtlb., handfuls handfuls hop flowers, 8 8 to to l0 orange orange leaves Icaves and a a glass vinegar. vinegar. Fill with wiÙJ water. water. Leave Leave to to macerate rnacerate for for 2 2 days,

Clairet -- Boil Boil 6* 6t kg. kg. (14+ (l4-!- lb.) lb.) carrots and 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) liquorice liquorice roots fOOts in in l0 10 litres litres (9 (9 quarts, quarls, ll 11 quarts) water. waler. Strain, pressing the 10 extract as much much the ingredients ingredients so so as to liquid liquid as as possible. Add g. Q (9 oz.) tartaric acid, 250 g. (9 oz,2{ cups) Add 250 e. ground ginger, 2 2 kg. (41b., lb., 9 cups) brown sugar and 2 litres litres (3* (3! pints, 4| pints) brandy to the liquid. Pour into into a barrel of 100 litres (22 gallons, 28 gallons) capacity. Fill with water, and leave for 8 days. Bottle and capacity. cork, tying tying down down the corks. Economical drink I. I. BotssoN BOISSON fcoNoutQun ECONOMIQUE -- To To make EconomicaJ drink 60 60 litres litres (13 gallons, 16| 161- gallons), put put 4 4 litres (3| (3i quarts, 4| 4:1 quarts) quarts) red or white white wine into in to a tun, add add 56 litres (12{ (l2k gallons, gallons, 15| 1st gallons) gallons) water, water, 2 kg. kg. e4 (41 lb., lb., 9 cups) cups) sugar sugar (having ioto the tun), a a small (having dissolved it before putting it into lemon Leave for lemon cut eut into pieces and and tied tied in a muslin bag. Leave storing 5 to ta 6 days, stirring once once a a day, decant into bottles, storing them them upright. Economical ECOllomiCal drink drink II. II. BoIssoN BmSSON EcoNonnQuE ÉCONOMIQUE - Put Put into into a receptacle 20 litres (4j gallons, 5] gallons) water, I1 litre (lf receptacle 20litres cups) sugar and pints, generous generous quart) wine, I kg.Q*1b.,4+ lb., I1 lemon lemon cut eut into into slices. Leave Leave to 10 macerate macerate for for 4 days, Bottle and tie down the corks. This drink stirring once a day. Bottle will be ready for use in 4 to 6 days' time. lime. Take a barrel of Elderblossom BOISSON DE DE SIJREAU SUREAU -- Take of Elderblossom cordial. BoIssoN gallons, l6f gallons) capacity, enlarge about 60 litres (13 (! 3 gallons,l6t enlarge the bung hole and with water. Put the following and fill fil! the barrel barrel wîth cups) refined ingredients into aa muslin muslin bag: 2 ke. (4f,1b., lb., 9 cups) sugar or, ifthat if that is not available, ordinary granulated sugar, sllgar g. (2 oz.) oz.'1hops, g. (4 oz.) dried elderblossom, 50 g. 100 g. hops, 1I lemon juice squeezed 2l and 2t cut squeezed into the water, and the thejuice water, and eut into pieces and (scant I pint, dl. (seant pin t, generous cup) vinegar. Leave to infuse for 5 rest on on the days, stirring with aa stick day. Leave stick once aa day. Leave to rest sixth day and bottle on on the seventh (decanting into champagre bottles, possible). Tie down the corks. This beverage pagne boUles, if ifpossible). ready for use in 5 days' time. Keep the bottles will be ready boUles upright in the cellar. .Elder and lime cordial. BOISSON TILLEUL -- Mix BoIssoN DE SUREAU sTJREAU ET TILLEUL .EIder (6 litres (6 handful each and lime-tree leaves with 7 litres each of eider elder and aa handful (9 OZ., g. (9 cup) oz., generous eup) Add 250 250 g. water. Add quarts, 7| quarts) water. sugar, 2lemons and and 1 glass vinegar. sugar,2 day. Strain, to maceratc macerate for 33 days, stirring once aa day. Leave to for ready for will be be ready and lie tie down down corks. corks. This beverage wiU bottle and days' time. in 5 days' use in and stomachic. Spiced wine, tonie tonic and stomachic. HypocRAs -- Spieed Hippocras. HYPOCRAS red wine wine hip· hiphippocras, rcd cider hippocras, There are are beer beer hippocras, hippocras, eider There pocras, ele. pocras, etc. any stone fruit, flavoured wîth with any stone fruit, The beverage beverage can can be be flavoured The etc. wormwood, violets, etc. vanilla, wormwood, oranges, vanilla, r'^e.NcftIQLJE -- Leave HYPocRAs À A L'ANGELlQUE hippocras. HYPOCRAS Angelica hippocras. AngeLîca (* oz.) pinch of nutmeg to to and aa pinch of ground nutmeg fresh angelica angelica and oz.) fresh 88 g. (t (red or (lf pints, generous generous quart) cold wine wine (red or infuse in in 1I litre litre (1:1taste. and aa liule brandy to to laste. little brandy Add sugar for 22 days. days. Add sugar and white) for white) Filter. Pilter. g. 25 g. Leave 25 HypocRAs AU lu GENŒVRE csNIivRE -- Leave Juniper hippocras. HYPOCRAS Juniper juniper (lfi pints, pints, (l oz.) infuse in in 1I litre litre (1 to infuse berries to oz.) crushed jun (\ iper berries g. (2 generous quart) quart) cold alcohol, wine, mixed mixed with with 50 50 g. oz.) alcohol, cold wine. generous Q oz.) (3 OZ., oz., 66 75 g.g. (3 little vanilla vanilla and and 75 for 24 24 hours. hours. Add Add aa liule for filter. tablespoons) fine fine sugar, and filter. sugar, and re FRAMBOISE rnnunolsE -- Strain Strain HYPocRAs À A LA w .. " ... t,,,,..."V hippocras. HYPOCRAS Raspberry gathered raspberries raspberries over over aa freshly gathered cups) freshly 500 g. (18 oz., 3f cups) (If, pints, quart) red red wine, generous quart) wine, pour in pints, geoerous in 1I litre (11 bowl, pour bowl, (2 oz.) and filter. filter. g. (2 alcohol, and add 50 50 g. oz.) wine wine alcohol, with sugar, sweeten with sugar, add sweeten Infuse 22 Aux ÉPlCES fPIcEs -- Infuse HypocRAs AUX Hippocras with with spices. spices. HYPOCRAS Hippocras (* oz., g. 0: 15 g. tablespoons) nutmeg, aa cinnamon, 15 o2.,2 teaspoons cinnamon, teaspl:>ollS 2 lablespoons) (all ground ground inta powder) in in 50 g.g. into powder) pinch of mace and and 33 c10ves cloves (ail of mace (l| piots, pints, (2 oz.) litre (Ii for 22 days. Add 1I litre Leave for days. Add alcohol. Leave oz.) alcohol. quart) white amber essence essence generous quart) red wine, wine, 33 drops drops amber white or or red generous

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stirring a cloth, c1oth, decant deeant into into stirrîng frequently. frequently. Strain Strain through through a

bottles, boules, and cork, tying tying down down the corks. Hydromel Hydromel (Codex (Codex recipe) recipe) - Dilute Dilute 100'9. 1OOg. G (4 oz., oz.,! cup) pure pure ] cup) white (1 t pints, generous generous quart) quart) warm warm water, water, white honey honey in 11 litre (If, and strain. strain. Vinous part honey and three three Vinous hydromel hydromel is made from one part parts water. wa ter. Hygienic and drink. BoIssoN BOISSON nvcdNtQus HYGIÉN1QUE sr ET and refreshirE drink. (11 gallons, Mix 50 litres n.arnlicrrlssANrE 1itres (II gallons, 14 14 gallons) litre water, litre (lj} pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) brandy, brandy, (scant pint,2lcups) coffee (2t lb., 4i cups) cups) brown coffee and and I1 kg. (2*1b.,4| sugar together. Stir well. weIL Kefr. rfrn - This beverage, made from fermented cows' cows' The Caucasus. The milk, ii> used in in countries bordering bordefing on on the the Caucasus. rnilk, is dried, preserved, fermented kefir kefu is dried, preserved, and and transported transportcd in in the the form of grains called form of ca lied pousse touiours. They They multiply multlply inindefinitely by fermentation, so so that a a minute minute quantity quantity is is enough to produce any amount of of kefir. ketir. (scant quart, generous quart, generous I litre g. (ll Allow 40 a0 g. (11 oz.) kefir to t.o 1 litre (seant dilute with stone jug, quart) Put the the kefir kefir into into aa stone jug, dilute with quart) water. water. Put for 24 24 hours. Stir and leave stir, and slightly, stir, water, sweeten slightly, hours. Stir waler, sweeten leave for in 66 or or Ready for and bottle. days, and bOille. Ready for use use in again, leave leave for 44 days, after bottling. 7 days' time arter Lemonade -- See See LEMONADE. Lemonade lemonade Ordinary lemonade GAZEUSE -- Ordinary lemonade. LIMONADE Lnvrone,DE GAZEUSE Fizzy lemollade. apparatus. means ofaerating of aerating apparatus. dioxide by means aerated with carbon dioxide aeraled juice. LfMONADE DE AtI SUC suc DE LMoNADE AU Lemonade with pomegranate juice. Lemonade pomegranates cRENADE -- Extract the juice from 6 ripe red GRENADE red nA,n-."rr,.o,,., or by rubbing rubbing through pressing in aa fruit squeezer or either by pressing juice of and the the and 2 oranges, oranges, and of 22 lemons and Add the juice sieve. Add aa sieve. water as much much water Add twice twice as zest of of 1I lemon lemon and and 1I orange. orange. Add zest juice, sugar fine sieve sieve through aa fine to taste, taste, strain strain through as Ihere there is is juice, sugar to as lemonade. and chili chill the lemonade. and DE RÉGLISSE A L'ORANGEt'on.a.Ncn EAU DE nfcr,tssn À Liquorice and orange water. EAU roots, liquorice roots, well-washed liquorice oz.) well-washed Put 80 to 100 g. (3+ to to 44 oz.) to 100 (* oz.) orange orange zest. pan. Add zest. l0 g.g. G in aa pan. Add 10 cut into small pieces, in eut quarts) water, for 4} quarts) water, boil boil for litres (3{ quarts, 41 Cover wiÙJ with 4 litres Coyer cloth. minutes, and and strain through aa cIo 5 minutes, th. proceed Using oatmeal, proceed EAU DE DE GRUAU cRUAU -- Using water. EAU Oatmeal water. water. recipe for for Barley Barley water. in the the recipe as described in as ou oRANGETTE ou BoIssoN ORANGETTE Orangette Fr6nette cordial. cordial. BOlSSON or Frénette Orange rte or 10 g. (2 of JO oz.) ash ash tree tree leaves, peel of rnfNsrrE - Take Take 50 50 g. FRÉNEITE Q oz.) (2 oz.) g. (2 oz.) (G lb., oranges, 3 kg. (6-i lb., 13 13 cups) cups) granulated sugar, 50 g. oranges, (l oz.) yeast, bumt sugar. g. (1 burnt sugar. citric acid, 25 g. oz.) brewer's yeast, ci tric acid, peel for for 25 25 or or 30 30 with the orange peel leaves with Boil the the orange the ash ash tree leaves Boil (3| pints, pints) water. pints, 4t water. Strain Strain through through aa 4] pints) minutes in in 22litres minutes litres (31 cloth. clotho ((* lb., granulated sugar in the the sugar in 13 cups) cups) granulated lb., 13 Dissolve 33 kg. kg. (61Dissolve into aa barrel g. (2 acid. Put Put into barrel citric acid. Add 50 oz.) citric 50 g. above liquid. Add above Q oz.) (11 gallons, 14 gallons) eapacity. capacity. 14 gallons) of about about 50 50litres of litres (II mix with tablewith 22 tablewater, m1x cold waler, Dilute 25 25 g. (1 Dilute 0 oz.) yeast inin cold (3 tablespoons) buml and add add to to the the barrel. barrel. burnt sugar and spoons (3 spoons and cork. cork. days, bottle bottle and ferment for 88 days, to ferment Fill with with waler, water, leave to Fill pea-pods. BOISSON DE COSSES cossEs DE DE BoIssoN DE out of of pea-pods. Beverage made made out Beverage pots-vERTs - Put green peas peas into and add add into aa stockpot pods of stockpot and of green POIS-VERTS - Put pods get cold. cold. leave to to get and leave plenty of for 33 hours, hours, and Boil for of water. water. Boil plenty (9 quarts, quarts) liquid. quarts, li liquid. ll quarts) l0litres to 10 Add aa handful handful of sage to litres (9 Add Draw off and boUle. bottle. off and barrel. Draw ferment in aa barrel. kave to to rerment Leave Tonic DE RHUBARBE RHUBARBE -- Tonie EAU DORÉE DoRfiE DE Golden rbubarb rhubarb cordial. cordial. EAU Golden

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t23 123

BEZIERS BÉZIERS and apéritif ap6ritif obtained obtained by by macerating piece of macerating aa piece of rhubarb rhubarb in in aa and jug ofwater. of water. Rice warer. water. EAU EAU DE DE RIZ nz -- Proceed Proceed as as descnbed described in in the the recipe recipe for Barley water. water. Three floweis cordial. cordial. BOISSON BorssoN DES DEs TROIS rRors FLEURS FLBuRs -- Pu Putt 50 50 g. Three (2oz.) oz.) hop hop flowers, flowers, 50 50 g. (2 oz.) violet violet flowers flowers and and 35 35 g. (2 oz.) eider elder blossom blossom into into 20litres (4| gallons, 5| gallons) boiting oz.) water. Boil Boil for for 55 mihutes minutes and and strain through a fine cloth. water. Pour ioto into aa barrel barrel with with 4| kg. (10 lb., 20 cups) brown Pour (scant piot. sugar. Add Add ~+ litre litre (seant pint, 2l cups) vinegar and 12 g. sugar. (* oz.) yeast, broken oz.) brewer's brewer's yeast, pieces. Mix broken up up into pieces. Mix weil. well. Fil! (t Fill the barrel barrel with $"ith 80 gallons, 22 S0litres 22 gallons) water, stir the litres (17| gallons, vigorously, bung bung the the barrel, and and leave leave to to ferment. vigorously, Wipflavorned water. water. EAU EAU VINEUSE vrNEUsE Beverage for Wine-D8I1/oured for convalescents, made made by by addiog adding aa small quantity of small quantiry convalescents, of Ho,rdl~aUIJ( Bordeaux or Burgundy Burgundy wine wine to to water water or water. A or soda soda water. A liule little sugar or sugar and and lemon essence essenc€ is is sometimes ss6stimes added. added. lemon Blackcurant wine. wine. VIN vnr DE DE CASSIS cAssxs -- Press Press ripe ripe blackcurrants blackcurrants Blackcurrant in aa tub, tub, and and leave leave for for 24 24 hours. hours. in Rub through aa sieve sieve or or aa coarse coarse cloth cloth and and separate Rub separate the the juice. Cover Cover the remaining remaining marc marc with with water, water, equalling juîce. equalling in in volume the amount amount of ofjuice extracted, and and leave leave ta volume juice extracted, to macerate for 12 12 hours. hours. Press Press through through the the sieve sieve aga again. Mix the for in. Mix the two two juices, and g. Q oz., and add add 50 50 g. oz., t* cup) per litre (scant cup) sugar sugar per litre (seant juices, quart, generous quart) quart) liquid. quart, Pour the liquid into aa barrel the liq barrel or or sorne some other other receptac1e receptacle Pour uid into and leave leave to ferment. When to fennent. When fermentation fermentation begins to and to be established, bung the barrel, barrel, leaving an an opening the sile established, size of of vent-peg. ACter After aa few few days, remove remove bung, bung to allow carbon aa vent-peg. dioxide to escape. Repeat Repeat this operation from from time time ta dioxide to time until there is no longer any risk of too great an expansion of untll gas, then bung the barrel. Draw off offat gas, at the end of six months. Cherry wine. VJ1l,1 vnr DE cERrsEr described in the OF. CERISES - Proceed as deseribed recipe for BJackcurrant Blackcarrant wine. recipe Iig wine ffguette. vrN Frcr.iEs (rrcunrrn) Fig wme or Of figuerte. VIN DE FIGUES ("""'-llt' ..... ...,"\ - Put I kg. juniper berries into a small barrel. (2* lb.) and l0 (2-!lb.) dried figs and 10 juniper Add quarts) water Add l0 10 litres litres (9 (9 quarts, IIl quarts) water and and leave leave to macerate macerate for 6 to 8 days. Strain the tbe liquid, bottle, boule, and leave for for 4 4 or 5 days before using. using. crNcEnBRE - Put 9 Ginger wine. wine. vN VIN DE DE! G1NGEMBRE 9 kg. kg. (20 (20 lb., lb .. 40 cups) sugar into eups) into 40 40 litres litres (8f (8t gallons, gallons, 1l Il gallons) gallons) boiling boiJing water. When the sugar sugar dissolves, dissolves, add 300 300 g. (ll (Il oz.,2f oz., 2i cups) cups) pounded gtnger ginger roots. mots. Boil for a quarter of an an hour, and remove from from heat. heat. When the liquid is nearly nearly cold, add 250 g. (9 oz.) brewer's yeast. yeast. Leave Leave to ferment in a barrel. Draw Oraw offafter off after fennentafermentation, and when the wine is is quite clear, c1ear, decant into bottles. boUles. Juniper wine. vnl VJ1I,1 or DE cnxGvns GENIÈVRE -- Mix 5 kg. (II lb.) honey (or (or brown brown sugar) sugar) with with 22 kg. kg. ((~l lb.) lb.) brewer's brewer's yeast yeast and and 50 kg. kg. (l(110 l0 lb.) lb.) crushed crushed juniper berries. bernes. Add Add 100 litres litres (22 gallons, 28 gallons) hot water water and and a little liulc crushed coriander. Pour Pour this mixture into inta aa cask eask and and stir stir vigorously vigorously for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Cover with boards, boards, sealing sealing the the cask eask hermetically hermetically ifif possible. possible. Leave ta ferment ferment in a place with with a temperature of of 25"C. 25°C. Leave to (77'F.). When Wb en fermentation is is complete complete ind the the wine wine has has become clear, draw draw off off into mto aa keg keg and and put put in in aa place place with with aa temperature temperature not not exceeding exceeding 15"C. 15~C. (59'F.). (59°P.). At At the the end end of of one one month, mon th, draw draw off off again again and and keep keep in in aa cellar cellar in aa full, full, wellwellbunged bunged keg. !ceg. After After one one year, year, decant decal1t into into bottles. boUles.

liquid liquid drawn drawn off. This isis aa biller, off. This bitter, aromatic, aromatic, stimulating stimulating beverage.

(Il

4î

BÉZIERS proBEZIERS -- Town Town of of the the Hérault H€rault département ddpartement which which produces great deal deal of duces aa great rd table of red table wines. wines. The The culinary culinary specialities specialities of the regron are are the of the the same same as as those those found found in in aU all towns towns of of LangllJedloc. Languedoc. They They include include escargots eseargots àit la h lodévoÎse; loddvoise; cabassols; cabassols; manouls; manouls; small small Béziers pdtCs des B6ziers pdtis called PCzenas; called pâtés des Pézenas; flaunes ar flauzonnes de Lodive; fouaces aux fritlons; and flaunes or flmtzottnes de fouaces aux frittons; and oreilletes. oreilletes. BEZIEU BEZIEU SOEP SOEP or or REDCURRANT REDCURRANT SOUP SOLTP @elgian cookery). cookery). SOUPE soupE AUX Aur( GROSEU.LES water; Cook vermicelli vermicelli in water; cRosExr.rrs -- Cook when when ready, add potato flour add salt salt and and patata little cold cold diluted in in aa liule flour diluted water. Add redcurrantjuiœ water. redcurrant juice and and sugar. sugar. BIARROTTE BHRROTIE (À LA)-- Gamish Garni$ for for small cuts ofmeat of meat comcomG LA) posed posed of galettes; the of âpes cCpes and and ga/etles; prepared as latter, prepared the latter, as for for potatoes (see (see POT Duchesse A TOES), form Duchesse pOlaLOes POTATOES), form the the base. base.

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BICARBONATE BICARBONATE OF OF SODA. SODA. BICARBONATE BTcARBoNATE DE oe SOUDE souos - In In medicine, tbis this is is used used as as ao an alkali and and antacid. In In cooking, it is added addd to to sorten soften the water used used for certain vegetables. It is is sometimes sometimes added added to prepared to the the water water for for the the carrots carrots prepared àd la la Vichy. BICHIQUES Bichique (See CURRY, Bichique BICHIQLJDS -- Very Very small small fish. fish. (Sec curry.)

BIGARADE BIGARADE SAUCE -- See SAUCE. SAUCE. BIGARREAU - Variety BIGARREAU Variety of of hard-fleshed hard-fleshed cherry, cherry, rcd red and

white. (See CHERRY.)

Nineteenth century restaurateur. After ACter BIGNON (Louis) -- Nineteenth a good training and aod much experience a experienoe in well-known Paris restaurants, he he took took over'the over the managernent management of Café Riche, CafC Riche,

I

which saon sole h à la Riche and woodcock it à soon became famous; sole Riche were among among many noted specialities. The restaurant la Riclrc was frequented by most of the men of letters leHcrs of the period. a remarkably intelligent man man who who took took an Bignon was a inteiest înterest in in viniculture viniculture and and agriculture. agriculture. He He received received the awards at world exhibitions exhibitions of of agricultural produce, highest awards and became the first French restaurateur restaurateur to be awarded the Legion Legion of of Honour, Honour, in 1867. 1867.

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vrN VIN DE DE cENdvRE GENIÈVRE (crr*rvnrrre)

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sugar and + dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant scant t* cup) cup) wine vinegar vinegar into a small barrel. Add Add water. water. Leave Leave to macerate for to macerate for 88 days, days, then The wine wine wiU then bottle. bottle. The will he for use ready for be ready use 88 days after days after bouling in the bottling in the wintcr, winter, and and after after 44 days in the days in the summer. summer.

(lf

Juiper*ine WIDe (genewette).

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Raisin wLne. vn.t DE DE RAISINS wine. VIN RArsrNs SECS Fut 1I litre litre (li pints, sEcs - Put generous quart) raisins, 1, cups) GlU'" """_U raisins, 300 granulated 300 g.g. (II oz., oz.,l] cups) )';,

BIGOS @olish (Polisb cookery) -- Wash a 4 kg. (9 lb.) sauerkraut sauerkraul in BIGOS several waters before before boiling it in water. water. Drain, Drain, and add 22 several pounded pounded onions on ions and and 4 peeled and and diced diced cookirtg apples. apples. Mix well. weIL Fut Put in in a a casserole in layers layers with with cooked meats meats Mix venison, chicken, chicken, mutton, mutton, duck, ham, harn, sausages or such as venison, pickled pÎckled pork. Add Add butter butter to to each each layer, layer, pour pour in in a little liule stock, and cook in in aa slow oven oven for for 22 hours. hours. and About 25 25 minutes minutes before before servin!, serving, add add a butter-and-flour butter-and-flour About roux (q.v.'1 made made with with a a little liUle of the the liquor liquor in which which the the roux SGLrerACrœw was was cooked, cooked, and and serve serve in in this this sauce. sauce. sauerkraut

BIJAI\E BIJANE -- Cold Cold soup soup popular popular in in the the Anjou Anjou reglon region made made by by crumbling bread bread into into sweetend sweetened red red wine. wine. crumbling

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Bll,BERRY. MvRTTLLE MYRTILLE - Small Small plant plant common in in upland upland BILBERRY. woods (naturalised (naturalised in in U.S.A.). U.S.A.). The tart taft purple purple berries berries can can woods jam, syrups be stewed, stewed, and and they tbey are are also also used used ininjam, syrups and and liqueurs. liqueurs. be

Put Put 50 litres (l(1 I gallons, gallons, 14 14 gallons) gallons) juniper juniper berries bernes into mto 100 litres wormlitres (22 (22 gallons, gallons, 28 28 gallons) gallons) water, water, add add 22 handfuls handfuls of ofwormwood wood and and leave leave to to ferment ferment in in aa cool cool plaoe place for for one one month. month. Filter Pilter and and bottle. botlle. The The supply supply of of this this beverage beverage may may be he prolonged prolonged by by leaving leaving the the berries berries in in the the receptacle receptacle and and adding adding water wal.er to 10 replae replace the the

Bll.E BILE

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Thiek, greenish-yellow, bitter bitter fluid fluid secretd secreted by by Thick,

the liver. livcr. ItTt isis called 'gall' in cookery cookery and and in in industry. industry. the BIRD. oBBAU OISEAU -- Many Many wild wild and and domestic domestic birds birds are are edible. edible. BIRD. 124 124

BISCUIT BISCUIT

(Nrcolas) Biscuits (Nico/as) Biscuits

t-'lBnteor -(petits fours). Blsculrs ÀA L'ABRICOT fours). BISCUITS biscuits (petits Apricot biscuits Apricot yolks in in aa 16 egg egg yolks and 16 (18 oz., fine sugar sugar and g. (18 2| cups) fine Cream 500 500 g. oz., 2tcups) Cream Whisk flour. Whisk (l lb. sieved Bour. 5l cups) cups) sieved g. (1 lb. 66 oz., oz., 51 Add 625 6ZS g. bowl. Add bowl. into the the fold carefully carefully into and fold froth, and into aa stiff stiff froth, whites into egg whites the egg the paste. paste. . . . the with the tins wlth. baking tms flour-sprinkled bakmg greased and and Bour-sprinkled Half-fill greased Half-fill little Add aa httle forcing-bag. Add piped through through aa forcing-bag. mixture, piped biscuit mixture, biscuit sifting jam, and mixture, sifting remaining mixture, with the the remaining and cover cover with apricot jam, apricot 20 for 20 oven for moderate oven in aa moderate Bake in top. Bake the top. over the sugar over fine sugar fine tins. in airtight airtight tins. minutes. When When cool, cool, store store in minutes. (cookies). BISCUITS soumlfs BIscuITs SOUFFLÉS biscuits (cookies). soufl6 biscuits Chocolate soufflé Chocolate and sugar and (18 oz., fine sugar g. (18 2| cups) cups) fine oz., 2* Whisk 500 500 g. AU CHOCOLAT cHocor,Ar -- Whisk AU add firm, add mixture isis finn, the mixture When the low heat. heat. When whites over over low l0 egg egg whites 10 has been been which has chocolate which (lL oz., g- (II softened chocolate oz,l1 squares) softened 300 g. 300 II squares) whites. with 22 egg egg whites. blended with blended sheet baking s?eet buttered ba.king onto aa buttered forcing-bag onto Pipe through through aa forcing-bag Pipe into mixture Into the mIxture spoon the flour, or or spoon with flour, dusted with has been been dusted which has which (180'C., oven (180°C., moderate oven paper cases. Bake inin aa moderate cases. Bake small paper smaIJ 4). Gas Mark Mark 4). 350oF., Gas 350°F., Mix together together GENEvoIs -- Mix (cookies). BISCUITS BIscuIN GENEVOIS biscrrits (cookies). Genoo biscuits Genoa yolks, 1I w~ole egg, whole.egg, egg yolks, (4 OZ., fine sugar, sugar, 33 egg cr.p) fine 125g.g. (4 oz., t* cup) 125 with aa pinch of Stir wlth of salt. salt. Stlr and aa pinch grated lemon rind and lemon rind little grated aa little (2oz.,} melted cup) melted oz., I cup) 50 g.g. (2 Add 50 minutes. Add for 22minutes. wooden spoon for wood en spoon ground almonds, 125g.g. almonds, 125 tablespoons) ground o2.,6 35 g.g. (1(l* butter, 35 i OZ., 6 tablespoons) butter, whites fold inin33egg eggwhites mix. Lastly Lastly fold and mix. flour,and cup) sieved sieved Bour, oz.,l1 cup) (4(4OZ., froth. toaastiff stifffroth. whisked to whisked which have moulds whichhave into finger-shaped finger-shaped rnoulds mixture into the mixture Pour the Pour and sugarand offine mixture of fine sugar withaamixture and dusted dustedwith buttered and been buttered been Dry the the oven. Dry (cornstarch). Bake veryslow slowoven. Bake ininaa very cornflour (comstarch). comflour airtight tins. tins. andstore store ininairtight sieveand biscuits on onaasieve biscuits Mix AUGINGEMBRE (cookies). BISCUITS GINGEMBRE - - Mix BIscuITs AU biscuits(cookies). Ginger biscuits Ginger ground teaspoonsgroun~ sugar, 2 teaspoons fine sugar,2 125g.g. (4(4OZ., oz., tI cup) fine 125 "rrp)stirring until spoonuntii wooden spoon with liawooden yolks, stirring with ginger and eggyolks, and44egg ginger

various small covers various the tenn term covers French cookery cookery the In ln classic classic French roasted or are generally roasted which are type, which birds of the the sparrow sparrow type, birds of cooked on skewers like larks.

(U.S. Lotus). LoTIER Lotus). LOTIER TREFOIL (V.S. BIRD'S-FOOT BIRD'S-FOOT TREFOa grows abundantly in meadows, abundantly in plant which which grows Leguminous Leguminous plant leaves, The leaves, crops. The cereal crops. in fields of cereal and in highways, and along the highways, when pleasant fragrance, especially when fragrance, especially flowers have have aa pleasant stems and flowers stems and marinades. flavour marinades. to Bavour dried used to and can dried, and can be be used plant are are of this this plant flowers of leaves and and Bowers the leaves In In 'sorne districts the some districts rabbits hutch rabbits to hutch rabbit to wild rabbit of wild flavour of used the Bavour impart the used to to irnpart of bird'sbird'shandful of with aa handful rabbit isis stuffed stuffed with when The rabbit when cooked. cooked. The foot after being drawn. foot trefoil being drawn. trefoil after BISCOTTE RUSK. See RUSK. BISCOTTE -- See

in and, in of biscuit, biscuit, and, many kinds kinds of to many BISCUIT applied to BISCUIT -- Tenn Tenn applied cut to to mixture, cut ice cream cream mixture, made of of ice French, an iced iced sweet, to an sweet, made French, to (See ICE NeapoliAND ICES, ICES, NeapoliICE CREA CREAMS like biscuits look like biscuits (See MS AND look tan tan ice ice cream). cream\. made to be be made used to DE GUERRE GUERRE-These Army - These used Blsculrs DE biscuits. BISCUITS Army biscuits. part water), water), (6 parts parts flour to 1I part flour to paste (6 of fairly substantial substantial paste of aa fairly completely offuntil cooled off and cooled baked until completely 20 to 25 minutes, minutes, and baked for for 20 to 25 paste, an? and to the the paste, was added added to dry. aven was little leleaven dry. Sometimes Sometimes aa little as Itit taste, as some taste, grve the dough sorne the dough to give invariably invariably sorne someseasoning seasoning to were and were to chew, chew, and difficult to were difficult had The biscuits biscuits were no salt in it. it. The had no salt in liquid enough liquid not absorb absorb enough good in did not as they they did not not much in soups, soups,as much good when when soaked. soaked. food Army food of the the Army work of the work result of of the After as aa result 1894, as After 1894, bread, army bread, by army replaced by was replaced chemist, biscuit was Balland, biscuit chemist, BaBand, popular not popular stillnot thougb still absorbant, though porous and which and absorbant, wasporous which was wi th soldiers. with soldiers.

(U.S. cookies). Blsculrs DE DE cookies). BISCUITS BISCUITS (U.S. SWEET SWEET BISCUITS pArnsnnrrPÂTISSERIE t25 125

BISHOP

BISHOP

quite smooth. Add 50 g. e oz., { cup) rice flour and 25 s.. quite smooth. Add 50 g.potato (2 OZ., t cup) rice flour and 25 g. (l o2.,3 tablespoons) flour airdstir stirweil. well.Fold Foldinin? (1 OZ., 3 tablespoons) potato flour and 4 egg whites whisked to a stifffroth. eggPipe whites whisked to a stiff froth. the mixture onto greased paper through a forcing_ Pipe the mixture onto greased paper through a forcingbag, shaping it into small sticks. Splintcte with sugar, an? bag, shaping it into small sticks. Sprinkle with sugar, and baking sheet. Bake in the oven at lg0"C.I35b"F., n]ace 9nal baking sheet. place on Bake in the oyen at 180°C. (350°F., Gas Mark 4) for 8 to l0 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in Gas Mark 4) for 8 to 10 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in an airtight tin. an airtight tin. Lemon biscuits (cookies). Brscr.rrrs AU crrRoN Cream LemoD biscuits (cookies). BISCU1TS AU CITRON - - Cream g. (2 oz., 50 cup) fine sugar with 2 egg yolks until the +cup) 50 g. (2 OZ., fine sugar with 2 egg yolks until mixture is firm. Add grated rind of I lemon, 25 g. (l the oz., of 1 lemon, 25 g. (1 OZ., mixture is firm. Add grated rind cup) sifted flour, lS oz., 4 teaspoons) potatJ flour, i GOZ., t* cup) sifted flour, 15 g.e.(t 4 teaspoons) potato flour, 1 teaspoon ground almonds, and 2 egg whites whisked to a teaspoon ground almonds, and 2 egg whites whisked to a stiff froth. stiffpiry froth. through a forcing-bag into biscuits on on wafer wafer paper. paper. _ Pipe through a forcing-bag into biscuits with powdered sugar, and bake at 160.C. lZiS;f ., fnrinkle with Sprinkle powdered sugar, and bake at 160°C. (325°F., Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in preceding Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in preceding recrpes. recipes. Italian biscuits. Brscurrs A r'nq.rrrNr.tr - Cream 500 g. ltalian biscuits. BISCUITS À L'IT ALlENNE - Cream 500 g. (18 oz., 2f cups) fine sugar with l0 egg yolks until smoott. O? OZ., 2,} cups) fine sugar with 10 egg yolks until smooth. Whisk the egg whites to a stiff froth and fold into the Whisk egg whites to a stiff froth and fold into the mixture.theAdg g.-(4 o2.,3 cup) potato flour and 100 g. 190 g. (4 OZ., mixture. Add 100 ! cup) potato flour and 100 g. (4 oz.,l cup) sifted flour. Mix well. (4 OZ., 1 cup) sifted flour. Mix weil. Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot melted butter, Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot melted butter, sprinkle the entire surface with icing sugar, and fill the tini sprinkle entire surface with icing sugar, and fill the tins with the the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with more icing sugar and more icing sugar and with the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with bake in a hot oven. bake in a hot oyen. Turn out the biscuits, ice with Curagao-flavoured icing, Turn out the biscuits, ice withCuràçao-flavoured icing, and decorate the tops with candied orange peel. and decorate the tops with candied orange peel. Small unleavened biscuits. pETrTs pArNS AzyME - Mix SmaU unJeavened biscuits. PETITS PAINS AZYME - Mix 500 g. oz., 4| cups) sieved flour and 500 500 g. (18 o2.,2f, 500 g. _(18 (18 OZ., 4!- cups) sieved flour and g. (18 OZ., 2,} cups) fine sugar. Spread on the table, make a well in the cups) fine sugar. Spread on the table, make a well in the ggltre, put in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and g eggs. centre, in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and 8 eggs. My to put a firm dough, adding a little of necessary. Mix to a firm dough, adding a httle water water of necessary. Leave the dough in a cool place. Roll out and cul into Leave the dough in a cool place. Roll and cut into circles with a pastry-cutter. place on a out lightly buttered circles with a pastry-cutter. Place on a lightly buttered sheet, prick the biscuits baking sheet, prick the biscuits all ail over, over, and and bake bake in in a a slow slow

*

Bison Bison

The American American isis different different from from the the European European bison, bison, The which isis found found in in sorne parts of some parts of Russia. Russia. which All methods methods of preparation indicated of preparation indicated for for beef beef are are Ali applicable to to bison, bison, but but only only after after marinating marinating the the meat meat for for applicable several hours. hours. several BISQUE -- Name Name of preparation in of aa preparation in the form of aa purée, the form pur6e, BISQUE more particularly particularly aa purée pur6e of of crayfish, crayfish, or or other other shellfish, shellfish, more as aa thick served as thick soup. soup. served Bisque soups soups in in the eighteenth century century were were made Bisque the eighteenth made of poultry and and game game without without any any shellfish, shellfish, and and were were not poultry pur6es, of boiled poultry purées, but but aa presentation presentation of poultry or game, sometimes with aa garnish of cocks' combs and kidneys. times served served with garnish of In of Dons de In 1758, 1758, in in the the last last edition edition of de Comus, there is a crayfish, which really recipe for for a a quail quail soup soup with with crayfish, really was was a fcipe bisque soup, soup, made made of of quails, quails, topped topped with with crayfish crayfish pur6e. purée. li.sque Bisque, Bisque, therefore, therefore, probably probably meant meant a a soup, with with some sorne kind of of meat meat and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. What What could could have have given given the the crayfish pur6e purée the name name of bisque bisque soup soup was was the the .addition addition of of crayfish crayfish meat to to various various soups, soups, which which were were then th en called called bisques. bisques. Bisques, Bisques, whether whether made made of of shellfish, shellfish, poultry poultry or or game, game, are are considered considered high high style style preparations, preparations, and and have have always always been been excessively excessively spiced. spiced. For For Crab Crab bisque, bisque, Crayfish Crayfish bisque, bisque, Lobster Lobster bisque bisque and Spiny Spiny lobster lobster bisque, bisque, see see SOUp. SOUP.

3:5iloyen.

BISHOP (Mulled wine). BrscHoF - Hot beverage popular in BISHOP (MuHed wine). BISCHOF - Hot beverage popular in northern European countries. northern European countries. The bischof (the word can also be spelt bishop in this The bischof (the word can also be spelt bishop in this connection) is heated wine spiced with orange and lemon connection) is heated wine spiced with orange and lemon peel, cinnamon, cloves, and peel, cinnamon, cloyes, and sometimes sometimes star star anise. anise. It It isis served mostly at evening parties.

served mostly at evening parties. 19{ lishop. BrscHoF cr.lc6 - Pour a bottle of Champagne Iced bisbop. ,BISCHOF GLACÉ - Pour a bottle of Champagne and 5 dl. (scant pint,2f, cups) lime-blossom tea into abowl. and 5 dl. (scant pint, 2t cups) lime-blossom tea into a bowl, add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a sufficient quantity of heavy (32') sugar syrup to bring the sufficient quantity of heavy (32°) sugar syrup to bring the mixture to a light syrup consistency (18.). Leave in a cool mixture to a light syrup consistency (18°). Leave in a cool place for I hour. Strain through a fine strainer. place for 1 hour. Strain through a fine strainer. Ice_as for a granitd. Add 4 small glasses fine Champagne -brandy Ice asand for a granité. Add 4 sm ail glasses fine Champagne serve in punch glasses. brandy and serve in punch glasses. Rhine wine bishop. BrscHoF vrN DU RHrN Melt 250 g. ,^ Rhine wine bis hop. BISCHOF AU AU VIN DU RHIN -- Melt 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) sugar and mix with grated rind of (9 OZ., generous cup) sugar and mix with grated rind of I orange and I lemon, 2 cloves and a small stick of cinnamon 1 orange and 1 lem on, 2 cloyes and a small stick of cinnamon dissolved in 3 dl. (| pint, l{ cups) water. Cook for 5 minutes. dissolved in 3 dl. (t pint, It cups) water. Cook for 5 minutes. Add I bottle of Rhine wine. Heat until a light white foam Add 1 bottle of Rhine wine. Heat until a light white foam is formed on the surface. Sieve through a fine strainer. Serve the surface. Sieve through a fine strainer. Serve jug or on inis afonned in a large silver punch bowl. in a jug or in a large silver punch bowl. Bishop can also be prepared with Champagne or any other Bishop can also be prepared with Champagne or any other wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira, sherry or wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira, sherry or Marsala is sometimes added. Marsala is sometimes added. BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied to the ox and yak. It BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied to the ox and yak. It differs from the ox by its shorter, wider skull, the way in differs from the ox by its shorter, wider skull, the way in which the line of the back falls which the line of the back falls away away from from the the rounded rounded humped shoulders, by the thick woolly coat covering head 1 humped shoulders, by the thick woolly coat covering head and forequarters, and by its beard. 1 and forequarters, and by its beard.

BISTORT. BISTORT. BrsroRTE BISTORTE -- A A farinaceous farinaceous plant, plant, the the roots roots of of which which are are twisted twisted in in an an S-shape, S-shape, baked baked on on hot hot coals coals and and eaten eaten by by the the Samoyeds Samoyeds instead instead of of bread. bread. The The tender tender leaves leaves of ofthis this plant, plant, found found in in some sorne high high Alpine Alpine regions, regions, are are eaten eaten like like spinach. spinach. BITOK BITOK @ussian (Russian cookery). cookery). BrroKE BITOKE -- Bitok Bitok can can be be made made of of

any any kind kind of ofmeat; meat; beef, beef, mutton, mutton, pork, pork, veal, veal, chicken, chicken, rabbit, rabbit, etc. etc. Mince Mince the the meat, meat, add add bread bread soaked soaked in in milk milk and and finelv finely chopped chopped onion on ion (either (either raw raw or orlightly lightly fried), fried), season, season, and and put put through through aa mincer mincer again again to to ensure ensure perfect perfect smoothness. smoothness. Shape Shapeinto intocakes cakesabout about44 clrn. cm.(lt (ltinches) inches)inindiameter, diameter,dredge dredge ininflour, flour,fry fryininbutter, butter,cover coyerwith withsour sourcream, cream,and andsimmer simmerfor for 55to 7 minutes. to 7 minutes.

BITTER. BITTER.AMER AMER-- Having Havingan an unpleasant, unpleasant, wormwood wormwood taste. tas te.

Among Amongthe thebitter bitterplants plantswhich whichare areused usedfor formaking makinginfusions infusions

or or decoctions decoctions are: are: wormwood, wormwood, camomile, camomile, endive, endive,fumitory, fumitory,

gentian, gentian,germander, germander,hops, hops,Iichen, lichen,wild wildpansy, pansy,lesser lessercentaury, centaury, quassin (bitterash), ash),cinchona, cinchona,rhubarb. rhubarb. quassiaamara amara(bitter 126 126

BLANQUET BLANQUET Operation consisting of boiling BLANCHING. BLANCHJNG. srlNcHn BLANCHffi-- Operation consisting of boiling

According According to to Foussagrives, Foussagrives, infusions infusions or or liqueurs liqueurs made made of ofbitter bitterplants may may be be divided divided into into five !ive classes classes (i) (i)purgative mU'oni""'" bitters, billers, based on on rhubarb, rhubarb, aloes, aloes, etc. etc.;; (ii) (ij) nauseous nauseous bitters, based based on on camomile; camomÎle; (iii) (iii) astringent astringent bitters, bitlers, which, wbich, with witb the the

them, or, various variousingredients ingredientsinin salted saltedwater walereither eithertotoharden barden them, or, them' as as inin the the case case of ofsome sorne green green vegetables, to ta cook cook them. water, are Some Sorne ingredients, previously soaked soaked in in cold cold water, are as in the blanched blanched in in water water (gradually brought brought to to the the boil), boil), as in Ihe lambs' and calves' and trotters, heads calves' case of case of calves' and aotters, calves' and lambs' sweetsweetskin. breads, breads, etc., etc., both both to to cleanse cleanse them them and and to to harden harden the the skjn. to is blanched large dice, in (pork) generally cut Bacon Bacon (pork) fa! fal.., cut in large dice, is blanched to green vegetables, extract extract surplus surplus salt, salt, before fryingit. il. Certain Certain green vegetables, to reduce such such as as green green cabbages, cabbages, onions, on ions, etc., etc., are are blanched blanched to reduce their their pungency. Other Othervegetables vegetables and and fruiq fruit, such such as as tomatoes, tomatoes, peel. peaches, etc., eIC., are are blanched hlaoched to to render render them them easier easier to to peel. To remove skin, husk, etc. BLANCHING BLANCHING (Nuts). (Nuts). MoNDER MONDER -- To rem ove skin, husk, etc. of of almonds, almonds, walnuts, walnuts, pistachios pistachios and and hazelnuts. ha:l.elnuts. skin. Pour Pour boiling boiling water water over over the the shelled shelled nuts nuts to to soften soften the the skin.

bitter bitter substance substance content content of of tannin, tannin, include include

cinchona, cinchona, knapweed, KOiiDvveeiO. bark bark of ofchestnut chestnut tree, tree, etc.; etc.; (iv) (iv) stimulating stimulaling bitters bitters (ap€ritifs) based . based on on wormwood, wormwood, peel peel of of bitter bitter oranges, oranges, gentian, gentJan, germander, gennander, hops, hops, etc. etc.;; (v) (v) convulsing convulsing or or toxic toxic bitters bilrers medicine. belong belongin in the the province province of ofmedicine.

BITTER BITTER ASH. ASH, nors-AMER BOIS-AMER -- Quassia Quassia arnara amara (q.v.), (q.v.), used used in in the the preparation prepara1ion of of ap6ritifs. aperitifs.

BLACKBIRD. BLACKBIRD. ri,rEnrn MERLE -- Bird Bird of of the the thrush thrush family, family, with with black black plumage plumage and and yellow yellow beak. beak. Its lts flesh flesh is is aromatic aromatic in in flavour flavour and and slightly slightly bitter, bitter, and and is is most most fragrant fragrant in in autumn. autumn. Corsican Corsican blackbirds blackbirds enjoy enjoy a a great great reputation. reputation. (See (See THRUSH.) THRUSH.)

BLANCMANGE. -'These BLANCMANGE. BLANc-MANcrn BLANC-MANGER'These delicious delicÎous sweets,' swects,' 'are said Carême in in his his Traiti Traité des des enftemets entremets dc de douceur, douceur, 'are said Car€me they greatly greatly esteemed esteemed by by gastronomes, gastronomes, but" but, to to be he enjoyed, enjoyed. they two must must be be extremely extremely smooth smooth and and very very white. white. Given GÎven these these Iwo be qualities qualities (so (so rarely rarely found found together), together), they tbey will will {w1y,s. always be

BLACK BLACK CUMIN. CUMIN. NIGELLE NIGELLE -- Plant Plant of of the the Ranunculus Ranunculus family, family, the the pungent pungent seeds seeds of of which whÎch are are used used as as aa spioe in ln India India and and the the Mediterranean Mediterranean region. region. The The seeds seeds can cao be used used instead instead of of pepper. pepper. BLACKCURRANT. cAssls CASSl'\

Fruit of of the the -- Fruit

jellies.. This is preferred to to other other creams, creams, even even to ta transparent jellies.This is creamy' because almond almond is is very very nourishing and contains just right for sweetening the are properties which balsamic balsamic properties which are just bitterness bittemess of of humours.' humours.' 'Blanch Blancmange Hhmc:ma'nee (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). BLANc-MANGER I:ILANC-MANGHR - 'Blanch about 450 450 g. g. (1 lb., generous 3 3 cups) sweet sweet almonds almonds and and about in a bowl of cold to soak them Leave almonds. bitter twenty twenty bitter Leave to soak in a bowl of cold a sieve water, water, which which renders renders them them singularly singularly white. white. Drain Drain on on a sieve them, mortar, in a Pound napkin. and and rub rub in in a a Pound in a monar, moistening moistening them, prevent at a with I tablespoon water little little by by little, little,! water at a time, time, to to prevent into a fine oil. When they them them turning tuming into ioto oil. they are are pounded pounded into a fine 5 glasses filtered water, dilute with and dilute paste, bowl and put into ioto aa bowl with 5 glasses filtered water, paste, put dish, over aa dish, clean napkin at aa time. time. Spread aa clean httle at lOOeAi added a !iule napkin over the with 22 people twistin-g the and, with into it and, pour the the blancmange into pour in 350 g- (12.o2., milk. Put almond press out all the napkin, napkin, press out the almond milk. oz., fine Sleve. sieve. through aa fine and rub rub through granulated sugar sugar and l]-cupsf granulaled (l plus g. oz. add 30 again, once napkin a Sirain-through once again, add 30 g. (1 oz. plus Blend than tepid. Blend little warmer warmer than 4 grains) clarified isinglass aa liule in aa and place in mould and into aa mould with the blancmange. Pour into ice. with crushed ice. container with container glass rum to the add t glass rum blancmange, blancmange, add 'To make make rum 'To rwn to the blancmaraschino blancmake aa maraschino To make above. To described above. mixture described mixture glass maraschino. maraschino. add 1-I glass mange, add pots, prepare two-thirds of in small 'To serve small pOIS, sweet in this sweet serve this prepare two-thirds of you will, however, recipe; you preceding recipe; quantity given given in in tbe the preceding the quantity tbe will, however, in small small served in blancmange as blancmange served less isinglass, as little less need aa lîttle need it is to be turned out. when than delicate more pots be to has pots has lo be more tban when it is ta he tumed out. vanillq coffee, coffee, lemon, vanilla, with lemon, flavoured with be flavoured can he Blancmanges cao Blancmanges and strawberries. strawberries. hazelnuts and pistachio nuts, chocolate, chocolate, pistacbio nUlS, hazelnuts incorporated-' be incorporalcd.' can also also he cream can Whipped cream Blanch BLANc-MANGER (modern method). Blancmange HIElUclrnalllge (modem BLANC-MANGER - Blanch 15 g' and 15 almonds and sweet almonds lit cups) sweet oz., li and skÎn skin 250 g.g. (9(9 OZ., and g. pound in a mortar and pound almonds and bitter almonds teaspoons) bitter o2.,5 H(L oz., 5 teaspoons) in a mortar (scant pint, cups) 2{ litre with Dilute little water. water. Dilule with ~1 litre (seant pint, 2i cups) with aa little with over a cloth over linen cloth coarse lioeu paste on on to to aacoarse this paste Turn tlUs water. Turn cold water. cold a the paste milk. Return almond all the out and squeeze bowl bowl and squeeze out ail the almond milk. Retum the paste fresh water enough fresh pound again, adding enougb again, adding and pound mortar and the mortar to the to water milk. almond milk. (scant pint, pint,2l cups) almond extract ·;litre toextract I litre (seant lO 2i cups) (* g' oZ.)softened softened 15 (! oz.) Heat 200 200 g. (7(7 oz.) oz.) lump sugar, 15 Heat wooden spoon gelatine and stir with aawooden almond rnilk, and seir and the almond gelatine tepid, add I Whenilitisistepîd, cool. When tocool. leaveta and leave until ilit boils. boils.Strain Strainand until kirsch. orkirsch. (6 tablespoons, seant! rumor cup) mm scant Icup) dl.(6tablespoons, dl. mould bavarois mould pourinto into aabavarois cold, pour mixture Îsiscold, themixture When the When plaoe on crushed ice' andplace oil,and almond oil, greased with withsweet sweet almond On cmshed ice. an hour. afteran andserved servedafter outand turned out beturned canbe The blancmange blancmange can hour.

blackcurrant blackcurrant

bush bush used used to to make make a liqueur (see (see RATAFIA) RATAFIA) and and preserves. preserves. vDssIE VESSLE - Membraneous Membraneous bag bag in in animals, animaIs., used used after butchering butchering in charcaterie charcuterie to ta prepare prepare certain certain dishes, dishes, for for example example Roum Rouen fucklins duckling m en chemise chemise (see (see DUCK). DUCK).

BLADDER.

-

(l

on BLAISOF BLAJSOIS or BIESOIS BLÉSOIS -- Region of of France France bordering bordering on the Loire. are of Blaisois The specialities specialities of specialities -- The Culinary Culillary speciaIities Blaisois are Orl6anais. similar to those of nearby Orléanais. quality' for !heir their quality. known for well known rillons are weil rillettes and and rillons Blois ril/eues particularly the the excellent, particularly All the charcuterie charcuterie of this region is excellent, Ali (see (blood) puddings black (blood) and black andouillettes and sausages, andouillettes puddings (see same in the the same made in are made PORK); game pdtis; pâtés; lark pdtis which are pdti,made Chartres pêllé, shape as the famous Pithivi ets pdtis;and sbape and Chartres made ofpartridges. of partridges. fish, freshwater fish, pike, carp and other other freshwater are the pike, excellent are Also excellent blanc (see au beurre beurre blanc (q.v.), stewed, or or au prepared en en matelote matelote (q.v.), following The """J'VU"'" quality. The good quality. of good is of Blaisois is in Blaisois itlfE). Meat Meat in lapereau àd la gastronomes: lapereau by gastronomes: esteemed by are esteemed specialities are Sp
r47 147

BRESOLLES BRESOLLES Moisten with with aa little little water, water, simmer for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Put simmer for Put the the Moisten shredded cabbage cabbage into into this this sauce and cook sauce and cook for for about about 11 l| shredded hours. Serve (see RICE) .Riceàdla Serve Rice la créole uiole (see RICE) separately. separately. hours. Lettuce brèdes. brldes. BRÈDES sRioEs DE DE LAITUES LArruEs -- Wash Wash the leaves of Lettuce of the leaves cabbage lettuce lettuce and and cut cut them them lengthways. lengthways. Soak Soak in in cold cold cabbage water. Prepare Prepare in in the the same same manner manner as Watercress brèdes u Watercress brides water. (see below) less sauce below) but but use use less sauce and and allow allow shorter cooking time. shorter cooking (see time. Pump\in brèdes. brides. BRÈDES nntpss DE DE CITROUILLE crrRor.JrLLB -- Detach Detach the Pumpl9n the pumpkin shoot leaves of of pwnpkin shoot tips, tips, leaving leaving apiece a piece of of stalk stalk 1I cm. cm. leaves inch) long long on on each each leaf. leaf. Peel Peel off parts, offall and stringy skin and (1(* inch) ail skin stringy parts, and scrape green knots. scrape off off ail all green knots. Wash Wash carefully carefully and and leave and leave to to in cold soak in cold water. water. Drain. Drain. Put good fat Put sorne fat in in aa casserole, some good soak casserole, add sorne some diced diced bacon, bacon, and and brown brown aa chopped chopped onion in this onion in add this mixture. Add Add aa large, large, skinned, skinned, seeded quartered seeded- and mixture. and quartered tomato, and garlic and and sorne some salt, ginger, which salt, garlic and ginger, which have have been tomato, been pounded in in aa mortar. mortar. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments. moments. Add poùnded Add the the prepared pumpkin pumpkin shoots shoots and and simrner without adding simmer without adding water. prepared water. Spinrch brèdes. brldes. BRÈDES sRiDEs D'ÉPINARDS o'6plNlnos -- Prepare Prepare as Spinach as above, above, blanching the the spinach spinach before putting itit into before putting into the blanching the sauce. sauce. Watercress brèdes. brddes. BRÈDES sRtnEs DE DE CRESSON cREssoN -- Wash Watercress Wash and pick and pick over the the cress cress as as for for aa salad. (5 oz.) g. (5 salad. Fry Fry 150 150 g. oz) thickly over thickly sliced sliced bacon and and aa chopped chopped onion golden. Pound onion until until golden. Pound 22 garlic garlic bacon cloves, aa pinch pinch of ginger and of ginger and salt in aa mortar, salt in mortar, and cloves, and add add to to the the mixture, together with peeled, seeded with aa peeled, seeded and mixture, and sliced sliced tomato. Allow to brown for aa few moments, moments, then add add 11 l| large glasses AJlow of water. Boil down the sauce sauce slightly, slightly, and put in of in the cress cress to to simmer is done. done. Serve Serve with with plenty of sauce and sim mer until it is and hand hand (see RICE) separately. Ia créole criole (see separately. Rice àd la

(A LA) BRETONNE BRETONNE (À preparedàd lala bretonne LA) -- Most Most dishes dishes prepared bretonne garnish of include include aagamish (seeBEAN, of beans beans cooked cookedàd lalabretonne bretonne (see BEAN, Fresh Fresh white haricot beans). white haricot beans). Thus Thus Leg Leg or orShoulder Shoulder ofmutton of muttonàd laIa bretonne (seeMUTTON) bretonne (see MUTTON) isis roasted pot-roasted (some(someor pot-roasted roasted or times times braised), braised), and and served served with with beans. beans. Purée PurCe bretonne bretonne isis made made of of beans beanscooked cooked àd lala bretonne bretonne and and served, served, clarified, clarified, as as aa soup; soup; or or ifif aa thicker thicker consistency consistency isis retained, retained, as garnish for as aa vegetable vegetable or or aa gamish for meat. meat. Sauce Sauce bretonne bretonne isis poured poured over poached or over poached or soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs eggs and and braised braised fillets fillets of of fish. fish. This This does does not not contain contain any any beans beans but but isis made made by adding finely by adding finely shredded shredded carrots, carrots, celery celery and and leeks, leeks, lightly lightly tossed in butter, tossed in butter, to veloutC sauce to thick thick velouté saucewith wirth cream, cream, or (See SAUCE; or to to white white wine wine sauce. sauce. (See SAUCE; SOLE, SOLE, Sole Sole àd la la bretonne.) bretonne.) BRETONNEAU me for BRETONIYEAU -- An An old old Norman Norman na name for turbot. turbot. BRIE BRIE -- Name Name of province of of an an ancient ancient province France, situated of France, situated to to the the east east of of Paris, Paris, with with the the town town of of Meaux Meaux as as capital. capital. The The province province was was once once divided dividd into into three three regions: regions: Brie Brie champen'oise (Meaux), Brie champenoise (Meaux), (Brie-Comte-Robert) frangaise (Brie-Comte-Robert) Brie française and pouilleuse (Château-Thierry). (Chdteau-Thierry). These and Brie Brie pouilleuse These regions regions were were part of part government of of the the government of Champagne. Champagne. The name of of Brie Brie isis known known for The name for the prothe excellent excellent cheeses cheeses produced duced there. there. There There are are no no other gastronomical specialities. other gastronomical specialities. The The cuisine cuisine is is the the same same as as that that of of the the Ile-de-France Ile-de-France and, and, therefore, similar similar to to the the one one which which constitutes constitutes the the basis basis of of Parisian cookery. cookery. Brie cheeses. FROMAGES FRoMAGES DE Brle cheeses. DE BRIE BRIE -- In In aa research research dedicated dedicated to to Brie cheeses one reads reads the year 12 the following: Every Every year 12 million million cheeses are are sold in the sold in the département dipartemenr of of Seine-et-Marne. Seine-et-Marne. In In Meaux Meaux alone alone 4,420,000 4,420,0(X) francs' francs' worth worth of of cheese cheese is is sold sold annually; worth. annually; in in Crécy Crecy 1,300,000 1,300,000 francs' francs'worth. There There are are two qualities of two distinct distinct qualities Brie cheeses: of Brie cheeses: skimskimmilk cheeses made, as as their namestates, name states, from skimmed milk, se made and and cream cream chee cheese made from whole cows' cows' milk. The latter (especially the (especially the cheeses cheeses made made in in the region of Nangis the region Nangis with pure whole whole milk drawn drawn twice twie daily, daily, moming morning and and evening) evening) are extremely delicate. delicate. According According to M. Teyssier des Forges, des Forges, ses that it was was these these chee cheeses that were were served at the served at the Congress Congress of of proclaimed 'the best the world'. Vienna and and proclaimed best in the It seems that this estimation estimation of Brie cheeses, cheeses, made made in 1863, 1863, be excellent still holds holds good. good. The still quality continues The quality continues to to be especially where farm cheeses especially where farm cheeses are are concemed, concerned, although although the se, unfortunately, are becoming more and these, and more difficult difficult to find. The Brie dc de Meaux Meaux and Brie de de Coulommiers are best best The Brie and Brie Coulommrers are eaten from from October October to to May. May. The Brie de Melun can can be b~ eaten The Brie de Melun year. (See CHEESE.) CHEESE.) consumed throughout the year.

dish was was said said to have been invented by BRESOLLES -- This dish by in charge chef in the chef charge of Marquis de of Marquis de Bresolles' kitchen kitchen who the it after his called it his master. called 'Chop finely 250 g. (generous 1 g. (generous ham with onions, I lb.) lean ham few spring spring onions, onions, sorne some mushrooms and garlic clove. and aa garlic aa few pepper and aa little grated Season with salt, pepper grated nutmeg, Season nutrneg, and and add little olive oil. a little 'Put aa layer layer of this this forecemeat forecemeat into aa buttered earthen@sserole. Lay thin slices slices of of veal, beef mutton on top, ware casserole. beef or mutton and continue altemating alternating layers layers of forcemeat and and slices of and meat (* inch) from the meat until the casserole is filled filled up to 1 ] cm. (t top. Cover with a lid and and cook in the oven. 'Garnish and pour 'Gamish with with braised braised chestnuts, chestnuts, and pour over over some sorne Demi-glace sauce (q.v.) flavoured with Madeira.'

BRESSE BRESSE - The The name name of of this this ancient ancient part part of France France is known throughout the the world world for the the excellence excellence of Bresse Bresse chickens and capons. capons. BRESTOIS - Cake which used to be made in Brest: Brest: Whisk 12 12 eggs eggs and 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 2f 2* cups) cups) fine fine sugar sugar over over a low low heat (as for Genoese pastry). Add Add 125 125 g. (4 (4 oz.,l oz., ! cup) sweet sweet blanched blanched almonds almonds pounded in a mortar mortar with with 33 whole whole eggs. Flavour Flavour with with a few few drops of lemon essence, essence, a little bitter almond alrnond essence, essence, and and a small srnall glass of Curagao. Curaçao. Whisk Whisk the the mixture mixture thoroughly thoroughly and and add add 375 375 glass of g. g. (13 (13 oz., oz., generous generous l| 1t cups) cups) melted melted butter butter and and 375 375 g. g. (13 oz., oz., 3| 3* cups) cups) sieved sieved cake cake flour. flour. Blend Blend well. weil. Put Put the the mixture mixture into into buttered buttered brioche brioche moulds. moulds. Bake Bake in in aa slow cake, ifif wrapped wrapped in in foil, foil, will keep keep slow oven. oven. This This type type of cake, in in perfect perfect condition condition for for aa long long time. time. ItIt isis aa kind kind of of 'travelling 'travelling cake' cake' (gdteau (gâteau de de voyage). voyage).

Dried plum plwn which gets its name name from from the the BRIGNOLE -- Drid département of Var. It It is used used in in town of Brignoles in the dipartement compotes in the same same way way as as dried apricots apricots and and prunes. prunes. compotes BR ILL. BARBUE BARBUE -- Flat Flat sea sea fish, possessing possessing aa certain similarity sirnilarity BRILL. to turbot, from which it differs by its smaller size, size, slightly to more elongated shape, and and by the tiny tiny scales scales which cover is light light and delicate. delicate. Its flesh is its skin. Is

BRETON BRETON (Giteau) (Gâteau) - This This gdteau gâteau was was created created by by Monsieur Monsieur Dubusc, of the the Seugnot Seugnot laboratories. laboratories. Dubusc, chief chief of The The Breton, Breton, made made from from almond almond biscuit biscuit paste, paste, isis assembled assembled by by placing placing different different cakes cakes on on top top of of one one another, another, icing icing each each with with aa different different colour colour fondant fondant icing icing and and then then decorating decorating it. it.

BRETON BRETON FAR. FAR. r.cR FAR BREToN BRETON speciality, speciality, made made commercially. commercially.

--

Cream flan. flan, a a Breton Breton Cream Brill

148

BRILL BRILL crayfish with crayfish Sometimes Sometimes the the fish fish is is glazed glazed by by dotting dotting it it with above butter and heating it it in in the oven, oven, surrounded by by the the above separately. garnish, wittr the sauce served separately. with -

incisions few incisions Make aa few LA ssRcv Brill ài la Bercy. Bercy. BARBIE BARBUE A À LA BERCY -- Make

lightly fillets lightly lifting the brill, lifting dark-skinned side of aa brill, on the dark-skinned the fillets dish Butter aa fireproof and seasoning the fish inside inside and out. Butter fireproof dish tablewith aa tableit with brill whole, long enough to take the brill who le, sprinkle it fish. put in in the the fish. and put and parsley, chopped shallots and spoott chopped spoon parsley, and dl. and 1I dl. wine and white wine cup) white (6 tablespoons, sc{tnt t} cup) dl. (6 tablespoons, seant AAO Add t1 dl. which stock which fish stock (6 tablespoons, (6 tablespoons, scant * t cup) concentrated fish (q.v.). of aa fumet consistency of to the the consistency down to has fumet (q.v.). has been boiled boiled down pieces and and very small small pieces into very (2 oz., g. (2 cup) butter into oz., t* cup) Cut 50 g. Cut 50 to put in in the the oven oven to fish. Bring to the boil, and put scatter over the fish. scatter

How to divide divide aa brill brjll How

frequently. 15 minutes, basting frequently. for 12 12 to to 15 cook for dish the dish putting the glazcitby nearly cooked, glaze When the brill is nearly it by putting part of the the oven. into the hottest part in to the BARBUE silrces. BARBUE various sauces. with varioll'i poached briU brill with Boiled or or poacbed Boiled (q.v.) of water of water court'bouillon (q.v.) Make aa court-bouillon PocISE -- Make BouILLIE, POCHÉE BOUILLIE, on the brill brill on proportions. Put Put the in equal proportions. and salted boiled milk in and pour the court'bouillon pan, and the court-bouillon and pour grill in in aa shallow shallow pan, wire grill aa wire impurities the impurities off the it boils, skim skim off When it it. Heat Heat slowly. slowly. When over over it. with aa the brill brill with cover the the liquid, cover of the surface of to the the surface which rise to 12 minutes minutes allowing 12 leave to to simmer simmer very slowly, allowing and leave napkin and g. (l(l lb.) lb.) of of fish. per 500 500 g. cooking time per over and brush brush over thoroughly, and drain the the brill thoroughly, cooked, drain When cooked, boiled with boiled Garnish with serving. Garnish before serving. melted butter butter before with with melted of the the sauces sauces one of with one parsley, and and serve serve with potatoes and fresh parsley, and fresh potatoes (see SAUCE). SAUCE). fish (see for boiled boiled fish recommended for recommended FEMME -soNNE FEMME A LA Ll BONNE BARBLJE À femme" BARBUE bonne femme. Brill Bril àn lah bonne (4 oz.) oz.') thinly thinly I25 g.g. (4 Bercy, adding adding 125 Brill àit lala Bercy, as for for Brill Prepare Prepare as and aa wine and white wine with white and moistening moistening with sliced mushrooms, and sliced mushrooms, (see SAUCE) fish on fish based on SAUCE) based sauce (see Velouti sauce few few tablespoons tablespoons Velouté in cooking in finish cooking and finish the stove, stove, and boil on on the Bring to to the the boil stock. stock. Bring Glaze. the the oven. oven. Glaze. BouncuIGNoNNE -A LA r,c. BOURGUIGNONNE BARBUE À Brill la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. BARBUE Bdll ài la pan put inin aa buttered pepper, put buttered pan and pepper, with salt salt and Season Season aa brill brill with mushglazed onions and small small mushonions and with small small glazed and and surround surround with (* pint,scant (q.v.) and pint, scant 22 garni (q.v.) and 44 dl. dl. Ct rooms. bouquet garni Add aa bouquet rooms. Add pan and and Cover the the pan preferably Burgundy. Burgundy. Cover cups) red wine, wine, preferably cups) red in the cook cook in the oven. oven. garnish. Boil the Boil down down the and garnish. cooked, and when cooked, Remove the brill when Remove the brill (q.v.). of aa fumet consistency of reaches the the consistency liquor liquor until until itit reaches fumet (q.v.). (see (3 tablespoons) Kneaded butter butter (see tablespoons) Kneaded Blend in 22 tablespoons Blend in tablespoons (3 add 75 oz., 66 75 g.g. (3(3oz., minute or or two, two, add for aa minute BUTTER), BUTTER), boil boil for Pour this this and strain. strain. Pour thoroughly, and tablespoons) butter, blend blend thoroughly, tablespoons) butter, sa uce over over the the brill. brill. sauce BRAIsfo -garnishes. BARBUE BARBUE BRAISÉE various garnishes. Braised with varioll'i Braised brill brill with pan on foundation put itit in on aa foundation in aa shallow shallow pan and put Season brill and Season the the brill lightly fried frid inin which have have been been lightly of ions which and on onions carrots and of sliced sliced carrots parsley and andaa thyme, parsley fish stock, stoclg thyme, butter. concentrated fish Add concentrated butter. Add basting cook inin aa slow slow oven, oven, basting bay and cook the boil, boil, and leaf. Bring Bring to to the bay leaf. frequently. frequently. most This isis most Drain remove the the backbone. backbone. This and remove Drain the the brill brill and wellon aa wellup, on easily placing the fish, dark dark side side up, the fish, by placing easily done done by very fillets with with aavery buttered plate or removing the thefillets dish, removing long plate or dish, buttered long fillets. sharp replacing the thefillets. and replacing the bone, bone,and knife, taking out the taking out sharp knife, youare cover and cover are using, Garnish recipe you using, and the recipe as indicated indicated inin the Garnish as liquor, with added the the braising braising liquor, which has has been been added with aa sauce sauce to to which red with red boiled moistened with Braised brill brill moistened and strained. strained. Braised boiled down doivnand (q.v.), wine of aafumet consistency of wine fish fish stock reduced to to the theconsistency stock reduced fumct (q.v.), garnishes: bourguignonne can bourguignonne following garnishes: can be beserved with the the following served with (seebelow). Brill (see above), below). Brill (see etc.(see mdconnaise, etc. above), Chambertin, Chambertin,mâconnaise, garnishes braised oneof ofthe thegarnishes withone braised in wine can can be beserved servedwith in white white wine used recomthoserecomwhite wine, wine, especially especiallythose for fish fish cooked cooked inin white used for mended mended for forsoles. soles. Brill andtrim trim aabrill brill BARBUE BRANCAS BRANcAs - - Scale Scale and Brill Brancas. Brancas. BARBUE pieces. weighing (l* lb.), into uniforrn uniform pieces. andcut cut into lb.), and 750g.g.(Ii weighing about about750 Put ion, leek heart of ofcelery celeryshredded shredded totoaa andhalf half aaheart anon leekand Putan onion,

ail the seas of Europe, but the brill This fish abounds in all Atlantic Ocean is of of the greatest gastronomical gastronomical caught in the Atlantic flounder, resembles value. Grey Grey sole, sole, a a species of fiounder, resembles brill. species of value. fiounder, dab and lemon sole can be prepared in the Winter flounder, same way as brill. same making aa transverse transverse incision incision under the Clean the fish by making and trim, dark-skinned side. side. Scale and trim, shortening head on on the dark-skinned head slices or the tail a little. Wash the fish, fish, and cut in half, or in slices fillets. Brill à I'am6ricaine. l'américaine. BARBUE À r'uvrfnlcAlNE L'AMÉRICAINE - Cook Cook aa BARBUE A Brill Brill in for Bri/l recipe for in the as described described in the recipe medium-sized brill brill as (see below). with slices slices of of white wine wine (see below). Drain, and garnish with Drain, and white small'Iobster Lobster àd l'américaine LOBSTER). I'amiricaine (see LOBSTER). small'lobster or Lobster add cooked, and add Boil down the liquor in which the fish was cooked, to American sauce (see SAUCE). brill. toitit American SAUCE). Pour over the brill.

i

-

BriJl Brill àri l'amiral I'amiral

Brill and slit Scale and slit BARBLJE À A L'AMIRAL t'lMtn^lr, -- Seale Brill àI l'amiral. I'amiral. BARBUE (2*-lb.) brill. lengthwise, a l-kg. (2t-Ib.) brill. side, al-kg. lengthwise, on on the dark-skinned side, the dark-skinned Place pour in pan. Season, and pour in Season, and in aa buttered Plaoe itit in buttered shallow shallow pan. white has been boiled down down to to aa which has been boiled white wine wine fish fish stock stock which fumet (q.v.), enough fish. Season. Season. reach the level of of the the fish. to reach the level enough to fumet (q.v.), Bring for 25 25 to place in in aa hot hot oven oven for to cover, and and place Bring to to the the boil, boil, cover, 30 partly cooked, cooked, baste baste has been been partly fish has After the the fish 30 minutes. minutes. After from liquor; ifif basted earlier there there its own own liquor; basted earlier from time time with with its time to to time ove isis aa risk and rem remove When cooked, cooked, drain drain and fish splitting. risk of the fish splitting. When of the aU Trim off off the the side side bones. bones. all the the dark dark skin. skin. Trim Place away ail wipe away all care to to wipe on aa serving dish, taking taking care Place on serving dish, liquid. Make the oven. oven. Make Heat for for aa moment moment or or two two inin the liquid. Heat Normande pan, (see SAUCE) liquor inin the the pan, from the the liquor Normanfu sauce SAUCE) from sauce (see which little and had had aa little down, and has been boiled down, been strained, strained, boiled which has Crayfish (see BUTTER) it. added to to it. butter (see BUfiER) added Crayfish butter Garnish and breadcrumbs and in egg and breadcrumbs coated in egg and Garnish with with oysters oysters coated fried, crayfrsh with crayfish filled with shells filled fried, mussels Villeroi, scallop scallop shells mussels àd la la Villeroi, tails the browned under under the tails àri la with the the tops tops slightly slightly browned la Nantua Nantua with grill, (q.v.). DecDec' grill, and in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). cooked in and mushrooms mushrooms cooked orate have been been which have truffie which slices of of truffie brill with with thin thin slices orate the the brill heated pepper. and pepper. with salt salt and in butter and seasoned seasoned with heated in butter and The amiral applies flat Brill àd /'I'atniral applies to to ail all fiat cooking Brill The method method of of cooking fish little court-bouillon, court-bouillon, in very very little fish which which are are braised; braise in braised; braise and very weil. well. and flavour flavour the or fumet the stock stock or fumet very 149 r49

BRILL BRILL julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) into pan with finejulienne into aa pan g. (l(l OZ., with 25 25 g. oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine pinch of butter and and aa pinch of salt. salt. Cook Cook very very slowly. slowly. When When the the butter vegetables are are about about three-quarters three-quarters donc, done, add add 125 125 g.E. vegetables (4 oz.) oz.) finely finely shredded mushrooms, and shredded mushrooms, and finish finish cooking. cooking. (4 \\is julienne isis called called bretonne. bretonne. Thisjulienne Saut6 aa tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion onion in in butter, butter, and and add add 44 Sauté peeled, seeded seeded and and chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, togctber together with with aa little little peeled, garlig salt chopped garlic, pepper. Simmer and pepper. salt and Simmer slowly, slowly, stirring stirring chopped from time you get get aa tomato time to to time, time, until until you tomato fondue. Add Add aa smaU small from spoon cbopped parsley. chopped parsley. spoon Butter an an ovenware ovenware dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with with salt salt and and freshly freshly Butter ground pepper, pepper, and julienne. Put pour in and pour in half half the the vegetable vegetable julienne. P:ut ground (q.v.) in garni (g.v.) bouquet garni in aa corner corner of of the the dish dish so so that that ilit can can be be aa bouquet removed at easily removed at the the end end of of cooking. cooking. Place pieces of Plaoe the the pieces of easily brill on on the the dish dish in in the the shape shape of of the the original original fish, fish, season season with with brill pepper, and julienne. and pepper, salt and and cover cover with with tbe rest of the rest of the the julienne. salt juice and Sprinkle with with aa few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice and add add 22 dl. dl. Sprinkle pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Scatter Scatter aa few few dabs dabs of butter of butter $ pint, (t on the the surface surface of of the the fish. fish. on Bring slowly slowly to to the place the dish the boil boil on on the the stove, stove, then then place in dish in Bring slow oven oven for for 15 15 to 18 minutes, minutes, basting to 18 basting freguently. frequently. A A aa slow few minutes put aa border minutes before before the the end end of of cooking, cooking, put border of of the the few tomato fondue round the the brill. brill. Return Return the dish to much the dish to aa mueh fondue round tomato hotter oven glazn the oven to the fish. fish. Before Before serving, with sprinkle with serving, sprinkle hotter to glaze parsley. chopped parsley. chopped This way way of of cooking, cooking, cvolved evolved from from the Dugl6r6 method method the Dugléré This preparation, can young turbot, of preparation, can be for fish be used used for fish such as young such as turbot, of (U.S. plaice (U fresh cod, sole, whiting, cod, plaice flounder). sole, whiting, fresh .S. flounder). Brill àn la h callClllaise. cancalaise. BARBUE BARBT,TE À A LA CANCALAISE clNclr,Arsu -- Cook Cook the the Drill brill white wine wine as as described in the described in recipe for for Brill the recipe briU in in white Bril! àd I'uniral. Drain poached Garnish with with oysters oysters poached Drain thoroughly. thoroughly. Garnish l'amiral. in own liquor, drained, and and with in their their own liguor, drained, with their their beards beards removed. removed. Boil down the liquor in in which the fish fish was cooked, and and add add Boil down the liguor whieh the was cooked, (see SAUCE), to sauce (see SAUCE), which suitable fO( for brill. brill. to Normande Normande sauce which is is suitable Brill cardil1al. BARBTJE CARDtNAL cardinal. BARBUE cARDTNAL -- Remove the backbone, Remove the backbone, Drill as described described for for Braised brill with with various Season as Braised brm various garnishes. garnishes. Season the the brill, brill, and and stuff stuff it it with with finely finely poundd, pounded Pike Pike forcemeat forcemeal (see (see FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEA T), to to which which has has been been addd added Lobster Lobster butter or Crayfish Crayfish butter buller (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). buller or Poach poach the the brill briU in in white white wine, wine, drain, drain, and and garnish garnish with with slices slices of of lobster lobster or or crayfish. crayfish. Cover Cover wfth with Cardinal Cardinal sance sauce 1 (see sauces). Sprinkle (see SAUCE, SAUCE, White White sauces). Sprinkle with with chopped chopped coral. coral. Brill Drill au au Chambertin. Chambertin. BARBUE BARBUE Au AU cHAMBERTTN CHAMBERTtN - Cook Cook the the brill briU in in concentrated concentrated fish fish stock stock made made with with Chambertin Chambertin wine, wine, as as described described for for Brill Brill d à Ia Ûl bourguignonne, bourguignonne, making making the the saue sauce with with Chambertin Chambertin instead instead of of Burgundy. Burgundy. Brill Bri/! an au Chambertin Chambertin is is garnished garnishcd with with mushrooms mushrooms which which have been been cooked cooked with with the the fish; fish; brill briU prepared prepared d à la Ûl bourbourguignonne is garnished garnished with with mushrooms mushrooms and and small smaU glazed glazed guignonne is onions. on ions. Brill in Clampagne: Cbampagne: il la la champenoise. champenois
Drain the the brill, and surround surround with brill, and with small heaps of Drain small heaps of very very (see FONDUE) thick Tomato Tomato fondue FONDUE) alternating alternating with tbiek with fondue (see truffies cut cut into into large large dice. dice. truffles Boil down down the the liquor liquor inin which which the the fish fish was was cooked cooked to Boil to aa (q.v.), strain, julimne (g.v.) (q.v.) of (red) and add add aa julienne strain, and fumet of sweet sweet (red) fumet (g.v.), pimentos which which have have been been lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Mix Mix with with pimentos (ser, SAUCE) Hollandnise sauce sauce (see pour itit over SAUCE) and and pOUT Hollandaise over the the briU. brill. Glaze in in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. Glaze Cold brill brill with with VlIrÎOUS various sauces. stuces. IlARIlUE BARBuE FROID FRorD - Cook Cold Cook the the fish as as described described in in the for Boiled brUI, recipe for the recipe brill, and and leave leave to fish to cool in in the the liguor. liquor. Drain Drain the garnish with the brill brill weil, well, gamish cool with fresh fresh parsley or or lettuce lettuce hearts, hearts, and and serve serve with with mayonnaise mayonnaise or parsley any or any recommended for other sauce sauce recommended for cold cold fish. fish. other Brilt witb with crayfish: crayfish: ài la la Nantua. Nantua. BARBUE BARBT.JE AUX lux ÉCRiVISSES: fcnrvrssrs: À A Drill LA NANTUA NANTUA - Prepare Prepare as (see below), as Brill Brill with with shrimps LA shrirnps (see replacing shrimps ldrth Nantua shrimps by crayfish crayfish tails, and and covering covering with Nantua replacing (see SAUCE, sauce (see SAUCE, Compound Compound sauces). saaces). Boil Boil down down the liquol sauce the Iiguor and add add to to the the sauce sauce before serving. serving. and gratin BARBUE Brill in in cream cream au au gratin. BARBTJE À A LA CRiME cnirr,c AU AU GRATtN Brill GRATTN Prepare as gratin (see (see COD), as Creamed Crearned cod cod au gratin COD), using brill Prepare brill eut cut pieces. into pieees. into Brill à la la dieppoise. dieppoise. IlARBUE BARBTJE À A LA ra DIEPPOlSE orrpporse -- Cook BriO Cook whole whole or filleted filleted brill brill in in white white wine. wine. Drain Drain weil. or well. Garnish Garnish with (cooked in mussels àd la dieppol'se (cooked la dieppoise in white white wine) wine) and and peeled shrimps. Pour Pour over (see over the the fish fish White White wine wine sauce sauce / (see shrimps. SAUCE, White White sauces) sauces) to which the to which concentrated pan the concentrated SAUCE, juices have been been added. added. G Glazn in aa very very hot hot oven. juices laze in Brill Dugléré. Dugl6r6. BARBUE DUGLÉRÉ oucrfr.6 -- Cut pieces Cut the the brill into pieces Drill and prepare as as described in the (see for.Bass and the recipe for Bass Dugldrd Dugliré (see BASS). Brin h fermière. fermiCre. BARBUE sA.nsuE A r,A FERMŒRE reRMdRE -- Season the brill Drill ài la À LA with salt and and pepper with salt pepper and and place place in in aa.buttered buttcred dish dish on on a (q.v.) made foundation of of a fondue carrots, on fondue (g.v.) made from from carrots, ions, onions, leeks and celery, celery, shredded shredded and and lightly lightly cooked leeks and cooked in in butter. Add aa few tablespoons of Cover the brill with more/ondue. more fondue. Add dry or concentratd dry white wine, wine, or concentrated fish fish stock based on on white wine (see Scatter a (see STOCK, Fish stock'). stock). Scatter a few dabs of butter on on the the fish fish and and cook cook in in a a slow slow oven, basting basting frequently. freguently. (scant t cup) When When the the fish fish is is done, done, add add 3 tablespoons (seant cream. Glaze Glaze in the the oven. oven. Another Another method method is is to put put the the fish fish in in a a buttered buttered ovenovenproof proof dish on on a a foundation of of chopped onion which wlùch has has been lightly lightly fried in butter. Cover with sliced mushrooms, moisten moisten with red red wine, and add add a few small smail pieces pieccs of of butter. butter. Cook in the oven. oven. Strain the pan pan juices, juices, bring bring to the the boil, boil, and thicken thicken with kneaded kneaded butter. butter. Add Add a little Iittle fresh fresh butter, butter, stir stir well, weil, and pour this this sauce over the the fish. Glaze G laze in the the oven. oven. Fillets Fillels of brill. briO. FTLETs FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE - Clean, Clean, scale and wash wash the the fish, fish, and fillet by by slitting slitting itit down down the the middle middle from from head head to to tail. tail. Slide SI ide aa sharp sharp knife knife under under the the fillets fillets to to lift lift them, the m, taking taking care care to to sever sever them them completely completeJy from from the the body body of of the the fish. fish. Put Put the the fillets fiUets flat flat on the the table, table, skin skin side down, down, and and slide the the knife knife blade hlade between between the the fish fish and and the the skin, skin, holding holding the the fillet fillet at at one one end end so so as as to to remove remove the the skin skin in in one one piece. piece. All AU methods methods of of preparation preparation for for whole whole brill briU can ean be be applied applied to to fillets. fillets. Fillets Fillels of of brill brill Ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. FTLETs FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE AÀ l'^lNcr.tlss L'ANGLA1SE Flatten Flatten the the fillets fillets aa little, little, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and fry fry in in clarified c1arified butter butter until until both both sides sides are are golden. golden. Put Put softened softened Mattre Maître d'hdtel d'hôtel butter huiler (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) huI/ers) on on each eaeh fillet. fillet. Decorate Decorate with with half-slices half-slices of of lemon lemon placed placed round round the the border border of of the the dish. dish. Fillets Fillets of of fish fish grilled grilled and and accompanied aceompanied by by melted meltcd butter butter and and boiled boiled potatoes potatoes are are often often served served under under the the name name of of fillets fil lets of of fish fish dà l'anglaise. l'anglaise. Filleb Fillels of of brill bril] ilil la la cr6ole. créole. FTLETS FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE AÀ r.l LA cnfot.e CRÉOLE Season Season the the fillets fiUets with with salt salt and and paprika, paprika, lightly lightly dredge dredge with with

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150

BRILL BRILL

How to fillet brill. How First cut the fish lengthwise, First slide ide the knife along then si detach the fillet the backbone to detach (Larousse) (Larousse)

v6noN -- Cut DE BARBUE BARBUE VÉRON Cut the the FILETs DE Fillets of brill V V6ron Fillets éron. FILETS of brill pepper, dip and pepper, dip with salt salt and in half half lengthways, lengthways, season season with fillets fillets in more with more and breadcrumbs, sprinkle with in melted melted butter breadcrumbs, sprinkle in butter and grill. Arrange layer low grill. Arrange on on aa layer cook under melted melted butter and and cook under aa low (see SA when serving. serving. of éron sauce UCE) when SAUCE) of VViron sauce (see in aa A LA r,c, FLORENTINE TToRENTINE -- Cook Cook in BARBUE À BriO Brill ài la la florentine. florentine. BARBUE Drain, and and arrange arrange on on white wine wine stock. stock. Drain, little little concentrated concentrated white cookd inin which has has been been cooked aa foundation leaf spinach foundation of of leaf spinach which (se SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkle sprinkle butter. with Mornay Mornay sauce butter. Cover Cover with glazn. andglaze. grated cheese melted butter, with cheese and and melted butter, and with grated very cooked in in white white wine; wine; very This for fiUets fillets cooked This method method isis used used for fish, cooking whole whole fish, little When cooking little liquid liquid should be used. used. When should be and trim round all round remove after cooking, cooking and trim all remove the bone aCter the central central bone before on the the spinach. arranging itit on spinach. before arranging in milk, milk, Fried Clean small brill, soak soak in Frid brill. BARBUE FRITE FRIrE -- Clean small brill, brin. BARBUE Drain, in very very hot hot oil. lightly and deep-fry deep-fry in oil. Drain, lightly dredge with flour, flour, and dredge with garnish with fried and gamish with fried dry with fine fine salt, cloth, season salt, and in aa cloth, dry in season with parsley parsley and lemon. and slices of lemon. slices of gratin. BARBUE as described Brill cRATIN -- Proceed Proceed as described BARBUE AU AU GRATIN Brill au au gratin. (see SOLE), gratin (see brill. in using small small brill. in the the recipe recipefor for Sole SOLE), using Sole au au gratin Grilled few shallow cntrr6s -- Make Make aa few shallow SA.RBUE GRILLÉE Grilled brill. brill. BARBUE pepper, brush incisions and pepper, brush with salt season with salt and incisions on on the the brill, brill, season with fresh grill on low heat. heat. Gamish Garnish with with fresh and grill on low with oil oil or or butter butter and parsley on, and Maitre d'hôtel d hitel and serve tvith Maître parsley and lemon, servewith and slices of lem slices of (see BUTTER, butter any sauce butters) or or any sauce Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound butter (see recommended grilled fish. fish. recommended for for grilled Jellied LA garnishes. BARBUE BARBUE GLACÉE GLAcfE ÀA LA variors garnishes. brill with witr various Jellied brill GELÉE based little concentrated concentrated stock, stock, based curtn -- Cook Cook the the brill brill inin aa little either nature of on the the nature of the the wine, depending depending on red or white wine, either on on red or white dish. liquor. Dry Dry and and its own own strained Allow itit to to cool cool inin its strained liquor. dish. Allow jelly (see (see JELL trim Y). clarified jelly JELLY). coat itit with with clarified and coat trim the the brill, brill, and (see Ali salmon (see garnishes recommended for Cold Cold salmon recommended for All garnishes SALMON) applied to to bril!. brill. SALMOI',D can can be be applied Brill Boneaa u, MÂCONNAISE UAcowNAISE - - Bone sARsuE ÀA LA mf,connaise. BARBUE Brill àt lala mâconnaise. medium-sized not toto tear tearthe white skin. skin. care not the white taking care medium-sized brill, brill, taking Season, dry forcemeat mixed mixed with with dry with fish and stuff flsh forcemeat Season, and stuff with duxelles (q.v.) and parsley. chopped parsley. duxelles (q.v.) and chopped (M6con) Cook red (Mâcon) on red fish stock stock based basedon concentrated fish Cook inin concentrated wine, Brill àdlalabourguignonne. bourguignonne. recipefor for Brill in the the recipe wine, as as described described in Drain dish. Surround Surround and arrange arrangeon onaadish. Drain the the brill brill thoroughly thoroughly and with havebeen been fried fried inin butter butterand and white cèpes cipes which which have with small small:white seasoned asdescribed described with aasauce sauoeas Cover with with small shallots.Cover seasoned with smallshallots. inin the Simmersmall small Brill àd lala bourguignonne. bourguignonne.Simmer for Brill recipefor the recipe artichokes (q.v.) of oftruffles trufles àrila/a fill with with aasalpicon salpicon (q.v.) butter, fill artichokes inin butter, crème, place round fish. roundthe the fish. andplace the top, top, and crirhe, brown brown the

halved tomatoes Garnish with halved flour and fry in butter or oil. Gamish cooked in oil. Scoop out the centre of each and each half-tomato and (see PILAF). Add fill with pilaf (see Add to to this Rice pilaf of Rice spoonful of with aa spoonful gamish peeled and which have have been been garnish diced sweet pimentos which and diced cooked in oil. Add aa tablespoon chopped parsley to garlic and hot to the the hot and parsley chopped garlic pour oil in the pan, and pour pan, sprinkle the fillets with lemon juice, and the oil over them just before before serving. Fillets t'lNpENNe -DE BARBUE À A L'INDIENNE FILETs DE Filleb of brill brill curried. FILETS Season an and put them them into an salt and pepper and Season the fillets with salt (4 oz., g. (4 cup) 100 g. oz., 1I cup) foundation of of 100 on aa foundation ovenproof dish dish on chopped and seasoned seasoned fried in in butter, and has been been fried chopped onion which has with garlic. Place 44 pounded garlic. pinch of pounded and aa pinch curry powder and with curry peeled, and fish, and on the the fish, peeled, seeded chopped tomatoes tomatoes on and chopped seeded and moisten with (| pint, Add aa few few pint, }3 cup) wine. Add white wine. cup) white with I-!1| dl. dl. (! small pieces pieces of butter. Cook frequently. for 10 l0 minutes, minutes, basting basting frequently. in the oven for Cook in the oven Add 2 dl. in (] pint, Finish cooking cooking in pint, scant cream. Finish cup) thick thick cream. dl. (t scant cup) the l'indienne with Rice Rice àd l'indienne Serve with oven, still basting frequently. Serve the oven, (see (see RICE). Fillets rA, or BARBUE sARnuE ÀA LA FILETs DE la Duxelles. Duxelle{L FILETS Fillets of of brill brill ài la DUXELLES pepper, lightly lightly and pepper, with salt the fillets fillets with salt and DUxELLEs -- Season Season the dredge and butter. butter. in aa mixture mixture of of oil oil and and fry fry in with flour flour and dredge with Place (q.v.) &txelles (q.v.) foundation of of aa duxelles dish on on aa foundation Place on serving dish on aa serving bound (se SAUCE). with slices Garnish with slices SAUCE). Gamish Tomato sauce sauce (see with Tomato bound with of pour parsley, and and pour with chopped chopped parsley, peeled lemon, lemon, sprinkle sprinkle with of peeled the fish. over the the fish. frying over left from from frying hot butter butter left the hot Fillets RIcHELIEU -DE BARBUE BARBUE RICHELIEU FILETS DE Fillets of of brin brill Richelieu. Richelieu. FILETS Dip and fry fry inin butter butter and breadcrumbs in egg breadcrumbs and Dip the the fillets fillets in egg and until of golden. Garnish with thin thin slices slices of Garnish with are golden. until both both sides sides are truffies butter d'hiltel butter Mattre d'hôtel of Maître trufles beated dabs of Put dabs heated in in butter. butter. Put on (see BUTTER, Compound butters). butters). BUTTER, Compound on top top (see Fillets rl Ds BARBUE SARBUE ÀA LA FILETS DE toulonnaise. FILETS Fillets of of bril1 brill ài lala toulonnaise. TOULONNAISE pepper and and and pepper with salt fillets with salt and TouLoNNAIsE -- Season Season the the fiUets dip sides both sides Fry in in oil oil until until both dip them in egg and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Fry them in egg and are (see Tomato fondue golden. Arrange bed of of thick thick Tomato are golden. Arrange on on aa bed fondue (see FONDUE) ion, has has been been chopped on onion, with chopped FONDUE) which, which, together together with cooked garlic. Surround with pinch of pounded garlic. Surround with in oil; of pounded cooked in oil; add add aa pinch diced lemon on put thin of lemon on and put thin slices slices of in oil, fried in oil, and diced aubergines aubergines fried the hot oil. oil. of the few tablespoons the hot with aa few tablespoons of the fillets. Sprinkle with fillets. Sprinkle FiJJets rl or BARBUE nlnsuE ÀA LA FILETs DE tyrolienne. FILETS Fillets of of brill britl ài lala tyrolienne. TYROLIENNE paprika, brush brush and paprika, with salt fillets with salt and TvRoLIENNE -- Season Season the the fillets with Tomato of Tomato grill on heat. Arrange Arrange on on aa bed bed of and grill low heat. with oil oil and on low FONDUE) and cover with on ion rings which fondue (see (see which rings with onion and cover FONDUE) fondue have in oil. have been been fried fried in oil.

151 l5l

BRILLAT-SAVARIN BRILLA T -SA VARIN Brillàtlalamarinière. mariniCre. BARBUE BARBUE A r-,q umm$nr - prepare like Brill À LA MARINIÈRE - Prepare like Brillininwhite (see below). Garnish d la mariniire (see whitewine wine(see Brill below). Garnish à la marinière (see GARNISHES) and cover with Marinière Mariniiresauce sauce(see irr. GARNISHES) and coyer with SAUCE). SAUCE). Brill àt lalaménagère. m6nagire. BARBUE BARBUEÀALA rl MÉNAGÈRE ufNlcins- -Season Seasonthe the Brill fish with withsalt pepper,and saltand and pepper, placeininan andplace anovenproof ovenproof dish dishon on fish foundationof chopped onions, ofchopped onions,lightly lightly fried friedininbutter butterand and aafoundation seasoned with pounded thyrne and bay leaf. Moisten with red seasoned with pounded thyme and bay leaf. Moisten with red wine and cook in a covered pan. and cook in a covered pan. wine When the the brill brill isisready, ready,arrange arrangeon onaadish dishand andthicken thicken the the When juices with kneaded butter. Bring to the boil, add a pan juices pan with kneaded butter. Bring ta the boil, add a little fresh fresh butter, butter,and pour over andpour overthe the fish. fish. little Brill Mornay. Mornay. BARBUE BARBUE MORNAY MoRNAy - - Cook Cook flllets fillets of of brill brill inin Brill concentrated fish fish stock stock and and arrange arrange on on aadish dish \ined lined with with concentrated Mornay sauce (see SAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Coyer Cover with withsorne some of of the thesame same Mornay sprinkle with with aa mixture mixture of grated Gruyère of grated Gruybreand and sauce, lauce, sprinkle Parmesan cheese, cheese, add add melted melted butter, butter,and andbrown brownthe thetop. top. Parmesan Brill with with muslU'ooms. mushrooms. BARBUE BARBUE AUX Ar.rx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNS - - Cook Cook Brill the brillbrill - whole, whole, in in fillets fillets or or cut cut in in pieces pieces -- in inaaconcentrated concentrated the white wine fish fish stock. Drain thoroughly, stock. Drain thoroughly, arrange arrangeon onaadish, dish, white wine garnish with and garnish with mushrooms. mushrooms. Serve Serve with with White lAhite wine winesauce sauce 1I and (see SAUCE), incorporating the liquor in which the fish (see SAUCE), incorporating the liguor in which the fish was cooked. cooked. was Brill with with mussels. mussels. BARBUE BARBT.TE AUX AUx MOULES MouLEs -- Cook Cook the the brill brill BriU in aa \ittle little concentrated concentrated fish fish stock. stock. Drain, Drain, arrange arrange on on aa dish, dish, in and surround surround with with mussels mussels which which have have been been cooked cooked inin and white wine. wine. Coyer Cover with with white white wine wine sauce, sauce, or or Normande Normande white (ser-, SAUCE) which has incorporated the liquor in sauce (see sauce SAUCE) which has incorporated the liguor in which the the fish fish and and the mussels were the mussels were cooked. cooked. which Brill ài la la normande. normande. BARBUE BARBUE À A LA Nonu,lNDE -- Cook u NORMANDE Cook the the Brill in aa little brill in little concentrated concentrated fish fish stock. Drain, arrange stock. Drain, arrange on on aa brill dish, and and surround surround with garnish àd la with garnish (see GARNla normande normande (see GARNdish, ISHES). Coyer Cover with with Normande Normande sauce (see SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), to to ISHES). which has has been added the been added the boiled-down boiled-down liguor liquor in in which which the the which fish was was cooked. cooked. fish The method preparation known of preparation known as as àd la Ia normande isis The method of also applied applied to plaice and sole. to turbot, turbot, plaice so!e. also Brill oysters. BARBUE BARBUE AUX nux HUÎTRES nuirnns -- Cook Cook the the brill brill in in BriJl wtth with oysters. concentrated white white wine wine fish stock. Drain, and garnish and garnish aa little little concentrated with oysters. Add to the the Iiguor liquor with poached poached oysters. Add aa white wine sauce to in brill and and the the oysters oysters were were cooked, and and pour in which which the the brill over over the the fish. fish. proceed as described Brill suR LE BARBUE SUR LE pr.lr PLAT -- Proceed Brill srr sur le le plat. plat. BARBT.JE in for Sole Ie plat in the the recipe recipe for Sole sur le plat (see (see SOLE), using using small brill. Bri[ BriJJ n àh la portugaise. portugaise. BARBUE BARBUE A À re LA ponrucArsr PORTUGAISE -- proceed Proceed as as described described in in the recipe for for Bass Bass d à la portugaise portugaise (see (see BASS). BASS). BriU .Bass Brill nà h la provengale. provençale. snnsuE BARBUE A À r.c, LA pRovBNgALE PROVENÇALE -- As Bass dà la la provengale provençale (see (see BASS). Brill BriJJ in in red red wine. wine. BARBUE BARBUE AU AU vrN VIN Roucn ROUGE - Cook Cook the brill in aa little concentrated fish fish stock based based on on red red wine. wine. Drain. Drain, little concentrated and and arrange arrange on on a dish. dish. Make Make aa red red wine sauce, incorporating incorporating the liquor liguor in which which the Thicken with with kneaded kneaded butter. butter, or blend the fish fish was was cooked. cooked. Thicken with with Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce based based on on fish fish stock (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add aa little little butter, butter, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the brill. brill. Brin la russe. russe. BARBUE BARBUE A À u, LA Russr RUSSE -- As As described described in in the the Brill tà h recipe Sole dà la la russe russe (see (see SOLE), SOLE), using using medium medium brill. brill. recipe fot for Sole BriJJ in in scallop scaUop shells. shells. coeurI,r,Es COQUILLES DE DE BARBUE BARBUE -- pipe Pipe a - BriU border border of of Duchess Duchess potato patata mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) round round the the edges edges of ofscallop scallop shells. shells. Cover Coyer the the centre centre of of the the shells shells with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), add add small small slices slices of of hot hot brill, brill, and and cover coyer with with more more Mornay Mornay souce. sauce. Scatter Scatter grated grated cheese cheese on on top, top, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and brown brown the the top. top. Brill Brill with with shrimpe. slU'imps. BARBUE BARBUE Aux AUX cREvErrss CREVETTES -- Cook Cook the the brill brill ininaa little fishfumet (q.v.).Drain, (g.v.). Drain, and and garnish garnish the the little white white wine wine fishfumet sides sides with with peeled peeled shrimps. shrimps. Boil Boil down down the the liquor liguor in in which which the the brill brill was was cooked, cooked, add add Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and and pour pour over overthe thefish. fish.

Brillshrlfed strffedwith withsalmon, salmon,with withvarious variornsauces garnishes. saucesand BriU andgarnishes. Cleana abrill weighingabout brillweighing about2 2kg. kg. - Clean (4+lb.) lb.)and andslit slitititlengthwise lengthwisedown downthe themiddle middleononthe (41thedark dar-k side.Remove Removethe thecentral centralbone bonethrough throughthis side. thisopening, opening, takingcare carenot nottototear tearthe thewhite whiteskin. skin. taking Season,and andstuff stuffthe thebrill brillwith witha acream creamforcemeat forcemeatmade Season, made salmonand andtruffies. trufres.Lay Laythe thefish ofofsalmon fishinina abuttered butteredovenproof ovenproof dish,season, season,moisten moistenwith with44dl.dl.(-i-(fpint, pint,scant dish, scant22cups) cups)white white (q.v.)and winefish fish/rmet poachgently andpoach gentlyininthe wine fumet (g.v.) theoyen ovenwith withthe the lidon onthe thedish. dish. lid Whenthe thebrill brillisiscooked, cooked, drain, drain,dry When dryinina acloth, cloth,and andarrange arrange juices,add onaadish. dish.Boil Boildown downthe thejuices, addtotonormande on normandesauce, sauce.and and pourover overthe thefish. fish. pour All methods methods ofof preparation preparation given givenfor Ail forbrill brilland andsole sole poached ininwhite whitewine winecan canbe beapplied poached appliedtotothis thisdish, dish,for forwhich which thefollowing following garnishes garnishes are aresuitable: the suitable:amiral, amiral,cancalaise, cancalaise, cardinal, champenoise, champenoise,diplomate, diplomate, Nantua, cardinal, Nantua,normande, normande, Polignac, Victoria. Victoria. Polignac, Stuffd briO brill with garnishes.BARBUE withvarious various garnishes. Stuffed BARBT.JE FARCIE FARcTE- -Bone Bone the brill brill asasdescribed described inin the the therecipe recipefor forBrill Brillstuffed stuffedwith with salmon.Stuff Stuff with withFish Fish forcemeat (seeFORCEMEAT). salmon. FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see Poachininaalittle littleconcentrated concentrated fish Poach fishstock. stock. Drainthe thefish, fish,arrange arrange on Drain onaadish, dish,surround surroundwith withthe thechosen chosen garnish, and pourover and pour garnish, overitit aasauce goes weil sauce that thatgoes wellwith with the the garnish. garnish. All the the methods methods given given for Ali iII ininred for Braised Braised br brill redor orwhite whitewine wine can be applied to be applied can to stuffed stuffed brill. brill. Brill àI vénitienne. v6nitienne. BARBUE BriJJ BARBUE ÀA LA u VÉNITIENNE vENTTTENNE - - As AsSole SoleàdlaIa (see SOLE). vinitienne (see vénitienne SOLE). Briil àn lah Victoria. Victoria. BARBUE BriJJ BARBUI ÀA LA r,c.VICTORIA vrcronrn - - Cook Cook the thebrill brill as described describedfor as for Brill Brill inin white (s* below). white wine wine (see below). Drain, Drain, arrange on arrange on aa dish, dish, and garnish with and garnish with aa salpicon (q.v.) of salpicon (g.v.) of the the (U.S. crayfish) flesh of flesh of spiny spiny lobster lobster (U.S. crayfish) and and truffies. truffies. Coyer eover with with Victoria sauce (se SAUCE). Victoria sauce (see SAUCE). Glaze Glaze in in the the oyen. oven. Brill Brill inin white white wine. wine. BARBUE BARBUE AU AU vIN vrN BLANC BLANc -- Season Season the the brill brill place in and place and in aa buttered pan with buttered pan with aa thinly thinly sliced sliced onion onion and and aa garni (g.v.). (q.v.). Moisten bouquet garni bouquet Moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons white white wine, or wine. or with with concentrated concentrated fish fish stock stock based based on on white white wine wine and boiled and boiled down down to to the the consistency consistency of (q.v.). Cook of aa fumet Cook fumet (g.v.). on low heat on low heat with with the lid on the lid pan. on the the pan. Drain Drain the the brill, brill, arrange arrange on on aa dish, dish, and and coyer cover with with White White (see SA wine sauce (see UCE), using SAUCE), using as as aa basis basis the liquor in the liguor in which which the fish fish was was cooked. cooked. The The brill brill can can be be served served as as itit is, glazed is, or or glazed quickly in guickly in aa very very hot hot oyen oven or or under grill. under aa hot hot grill. BARBUESAUMONÉE SAUMoNEEBARBUE

Jean Anthelme Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin

BRILLAT-SAV AR IN (Jean (Jean Anthelme) Anthelme) - French magistrate, BRILLAT-SAVARIN - French magistrare,

politician and and gastronome, gastronome, born born at at Belley Belley in in l?55, 1755, died died in in politician

Paris in in 1826. 1826. Paris He started started his his career career as as aa lawyer lawyer at at the the Court Court of of Belley, Belley, He deputy of of the the National National Assembly Assembly in in 1789, 1789, was was made made became deputy became mayor and and commander commander of of the the National National Guard Guard of of Belley Belley in in mayor 152 t52

Parisian mushrooms (Plrol. Nicolas)

v' 4v

BRIOCHE BRIOCHE salt, l+ l2l ke. add12·i copper vessel vessel and and add kg. Q7i (27} lb.) lb.) rock rock salt, 11 kg. kg. sugar. cups) brown (3 (3 lb.) lb.) saltpetre and and 800 800 g. g. (li (lî lb., lb., 3+ 3-t cups) brown sugar. Bring to the boil on a a strong heat. peeled potato into To test test the density of the brine, brine, put put aa peeled potato into and is too of salt is it. If If the potato potato floats, the proportion proportion of too high high and to the sinks to if the the potato more should be more water water should be added; added; if potato sinks potato the potato down until bottom, bot tom, the the liquid liquid should be be boiled boiled down until the remove the the is suspended in the middle. When this is achieved, remove and leave to cool. brine from the heat and which with aa long Prick the meat to to be be preserved with long needle which place in in aa and place with saltpetre saltpetre and in salt salt mixed with has been rubbed in grille at for the at the bottom for the bottom brine which should have aa grille brine tub, which quite cold. it isis quite when in the the brine brine wh meat stand on. on. Pour meat to to stand Pour in en it meat weighs 44 to if the the meat least 88 days days if at least Leave to pickle Leave to pickle for at into inject (81 to are used, used, in If larger cuts are lb.). If kg. (8t to IIlI lb.). ject brine into 5 kg. the meat with aa special pump.

1793, 1793, was was banished banished during during the the Reign Reign of Terror, Terror, fled fled to Switzerland, then then spent spent three three years as a refugee refugee in America. America. Switzerland, He returned to to France in September,1797, September, 1797, had his name name He returned removed removed from from the the list list of imigris, émigrés, became became first first a a commissioner to the the army in Germany Germany under Augereau, then missioner commissioner at the court of the ddpartement département of Seine-etcommissioner member of of the Supreme Supreme Court of of Appeal. Appeal. Oise, then th en member Oise, subjects He published various pamphlets, political and on subjects of law, law, but but his lasting lasting fame rests rests on a gastronomical gastronomical work on of which was published which he had long been engaged, and which goût. shortly before his death, la Physiologie du goftt.

(Method of preparing meat) -- Lamb Lamb BRILLAT-SAVARIN (Method and mutton mutton noisettes, noisettes, with with a a garnish gamish of duchess duchess potato and (q.v.), filled filled with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of foie foie gras, cassolettes (q.v.), truffies, and green green asparagus tips tips in in butter. Also Aiso the name of of a trufles, Normandy (see page page 210). 210). cheese made in Normandy

yeast dough, usually in in the from yeast made from BRIOCHE -- Cake made BRIOCHE as aa pressed into into the the top top as ball pressed smaller ball with aa sm shape of aa bail aller bail 'head'. yeast until until the with baker's yeast Brioches were were made in Paris Paris with made in Brioches yeast, which had had eighteenth century. Brewer's yeast, middle of the eighteenth was Austria, was and Austria, in Poland Poland and for aa long long time time in in use use for been been in when the of court of the court Lorraine when and Lorraine into Alsace Alsace and introduced into introduced of The brioches Lun6ville. The brioches of to Lunéville. King Stanislas was transferred to were centres, were marketing centres, great butter butter marketing and Gournay, Gournay, great Gisors and Gisors brioches: for Gisors gives aa recipe for Sansvoisin gives famous. famous. Sansvoisin Make aa baking. Make night before before baking. 'The dough is made made the the night dough is 'The g. 250 g. (lfi lb., Mix 250 and 77 eggs. eggs. Mix cups) flour and g. (1 lb., 77 cups) 750 g. dough of 750 (1 oz.) yeast. Mix with the the g. (t Mix with oz.) yeast. (9 oz., 10 g. with 10 cups) flour with (9 21 cups) o2.2* Keep g.(lt butter. Keep cups) butter. 1b.,3+ with 750 750 g. dough, (Ii lb., 3-!- cups) dough, together with in aa bowl. the dough in just before 'When ready into brioches brioches just shape into for baking, baking, shape ready for 'When in the the oven.' oven.' them in putting them given under heading are given under the the heading Various brioche doughs are brioche doughs Various

BRINDE -- Old French word for a two-handled wine-cup. BRINDE to which which is is often sea salt, salt, to BRINE. SAUMURE Solution of sea sAUMURE -- Solution added sugar, sugar, saltpetre and and aromatics. Preserving mixture added for foodstuffs. LIQUIDE -- For pickled tongues and Liquid brine. SAUMURE s^q.uuuRE LIeUIDE (4t quarts, 5t quarts) pressed beef. Boil in a large pan 5 litres (4} pressed (ll oz., g. (II l] cups) brown 2t ke.(5 kg. (5 lb.) rock salt, oz., It salt, 300 g. water, 2I juniper (5 oz.) peppercorns, 15 15 juniper sugar, 150 g. (5 15 peppercorns, 150 g. oz.) saltpetre, 15 sugar, berries, a a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf. leaf. Boil for for 25 25 minutes berries, and leave to cool. Prick the tongues, and place and saltpetre, saltpetre, and Prick tongues, rub with salt salt and in Pour in in the brine, and coyer cover the the receptacle in aa receptacle. Pour brine, and wood, pressing it weil with aa piece of smooth wood, well down down on on the the tongues. Keep in aa cool 'place place for for six in summer, six days in summer, eight tongues. in ter. in win winter. Full pickle for cRANDE SAUMURE SAUMUR-E -for various various meats. meats. GRANDE Full brine pickle (5t gallons, Pour gallons, 77 gallons) gallons) water into aa large water into litres (51 Pour 25 25 litres

Brioches Brioches (ScamGfi) (Scarnati)

153 153 Cauliflower Cauliflower ài la/a polonaise polonaise (Phol. (Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas)

BRIOLET BRIO LET DOUGH. For For the preparation of the preparation various hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre and and of various DOUGH. (See small hot hot entrée entrie dishes, dishes, aa standard standard brioche brioche isis made. made. (See small BRIOCHE DOUGH DOUGH 1I aod and II.) II.) BRIOCHE pAm ÀI BRIOCHE Standard brioche brioche dough. dough. PÂTE BRrocHE COMMUNE coMMUNE -Standard Proceed as as described described in in the (see recipe for the recipe for Brioche Brioche dough dough (see Proceed DOUGH). DOUGH). pArs ÀA BRIOCHE Dough for for brioche brioche mousseline. mousseline. PÂTE BRrocrrE MOUSSELINE MoussELrNE Dough (see DOUGH), Make aa Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (14 oz., DOUGH), using using 400 4ffi g.g. (14 oz., -- Make (18 oz., lf, cups) g. (18 cups) butter and 500 butter and 500 g. 4t cups) cups) fioUL oz., 41 flour. Add Add 60 60 g.g. là(2| oz., o2.,5 tablespoons) softened g. (1(l lb.) softened butter butter to to each each 500 lb.) 500 g. (21 5 tablespoons) dough. dough.

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Brioche mousseline Brioche mousseline

Fruit briochin. briochin. BRIOCHIN BRrocHrN AUX Fruit Aux FRUITS FRUrrs -- Line Line aaflan flan ring ring with with firm brioche brioche dough, dough, adding adding aa layer (q.v.). firm layer of frangipane (q.v.). of frangipane Steep sliced Steep sliced or or diced diced fruit fruit in in liqueur, liqueur, place place on on the frangipane, the frangipane, and cover cover with and with brioche brioche dough. dough. Leave Leave to rise for for an to rise an hour, hour, brush with with beaten beaten egg, brush egg, and and bake bake in in aa fairly fairly hot hot oven. oven.

en couronne couronne Brioche en

en couronne -- Roll Roll brioche dough dough into into aa round round Brioche en place on loaf, place on aa baking baking sheet sheet in in the the shape shape of of aa crown, crown, and loaf, and on the surface. Brush Brush with with beaten make aa few light incisions on egg and and bake bake in in aa moderate oven. egg

Brioche àti tête t0te

Large Large brioche brioche ài tête. t6te. GROSSE cRossE BRIOCHE r0rs -- Roll BRrocHE ÀA TÊTE Roll aa piece of brioche dough piece into aa baIl place in dough into in aa buttered ball and and place buttered mould. Make aa hole hole in in the the dough dough and into itit aa small and put into small ball ball of the dough, tapered point. Make aa few tapered to aa point. few light light incisions incisions on on the the surface of the dough, dough, brush brush with beaten egg egg and and bake bake in aa hot oven. pETrrEs BRIOCHES SmaII Small brioches. brioches. PETITFS BRrocHEs -- Bake Bake in in small small fluted fluted moulds in the the same as Large brioche àd tête. same way as t€te.

Brioche Goubard Brioche Goubard

Brioche Goubard Goubaud -- Line a buttered cake tin with brioche dough. dough. Roll Roll out out another another piece piece of dough, pieces, dough, cut cut into pieces, moulding them them into little little pies. pies. Stuff them them with a salpicon with a (q.v.) of preserved preserved fruit which which has has been steeped steeped in rum rum or liqueur. liq ueur. Fill Fi]] the cake tin with the pies, leave to rise in a warm place, place, brush with beaten egg egg and bake. bake. When removed from the the oven, brush brusb the pie-tops with diluted apricot apricot jam. Brioche mousseline mousseline -- This is baked baked in a tall mould, mould, further heightened heigh tened by by buttered greaseproofpaper greaseproof paper tied tied round round top. Butter and three-parts fill it with Mousseline Mousseline Butter the mould and brioche brioche dough dough (see DOUGH). Leave to rise and and bake in a moderate moderate oven. oven. Cheese BRIOCHE AU AU FRoMAGn FROMAGE - Dice Dice or or grate Cheese brioche. brioche. BRrocr{E 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) Gruydre Gruyère cheese, cheese, and knead into 2 kg. kg. (+| (41 lb.) ordinary ordinary dough. dough. Leave Leave to to rise, rise, and bake bake in in a buttered mould. mould. Filled. bohémienne. snlocHEs BRIOCHES cARNrEs GARNIES A À LA Filled. brioches brioches Ià la boh6mienne. BoH6MIENI.IE BOHÉMIENNE -- Small brioches, brioches, three-quarters three-quarters scooped scooped out and and filled filled with with various various mixtures: mixtures: mousses, mousses, pur6es, purées, salpicons, salpicons, etc. etc.

BRIOLET -- Slang Slang word word synonymous with with another another slang slang word, piquette (i.e., (i.e., wine of poor quality). quality). An An allusion allusion to to aa Brie wine which is is rather mediocre. BRIOU BRIOLI (Corsican cookery) -- Chestnut meal, prepared in meal, prepared in the same way as as polenta, with the addition of milk or cream. cream. BRIONNE -- Name BRIONI\E Name for for chayote, chayote, aa vegetable vegetable of of the the Cucurbitaceae Cucur bit aceae family. famrly. (See CHAYOTE.) CHAYOTE.)

BRISSE (Baron) BRISSE Author of of culinary culinary works which whic-h were oot not @aron) -- Author always accurate. always accurate. His books include la la Cuisine Cuisine àd l'usage l'usage des des ménages bourgeois bourgeois et des petits ménages, la Pettte Petite cuisine minages et des cuisine du du mdnages,la 366 menus, ail published in the baron Brfsse Biisse and and,366 menus,all the latter latter part of of the nineteenth ceotury. bad aa high-flown tic style, century. He had high-flown roman romantic style, speaking of of turkeys 'in blossom', aod speaking and is is remembered remembered for for his his curiosity value value rather rather than for gastronomy. curiosity INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. BRITAIN -- See See INTERNATIONAL BRITAIN

154 t54

BRITTAbIY BRITTANY

Sampling Sampling the the culinary culinary specialities specialities of of Brittany Brittany (French (French Government Governmen/ Tourist Touris/ Ofice) Office)

A Breton Breton farmhouse farmhouse (Fren (French Governmen/ Tourist Touris/ Ofice) Office) A ch Government

Among Among the poultryparticular poultry-particular mention mention should be be made made of of ducklings and succulent succulent young young turkeys. Ground Ground the Nantes ducklings and winged game are famous. Roscoff Roscoff cauliflowers cauliflowers and and artichokes artichokes are are sent sent to to the the markets markets of London London and and Paris. Paris. Breton potatoes potatoes must must be be mentioned, mentioned, and and Plougastel Plougastel strawberries strawberries and and apples apples are are noteworthy. noteworthy. Cider is the usual drink BeveragesBeverages - Cider drink of of the Bretons. Among Among are those the famous famous growths growths are those of of Pleudihen, Pleudihen, Fouesnant, the Saint-F6r6ou. Clohars and Saint-Féréou. dry white The Loire-Atlantique The Loire-Atlantique produces an an excellent excellent dry white young: the The name drunk young: wine, best the Muscadet. Muscadet. The wine, best drunk of vine, the 'Muscadet' is is the local appellation for for aa variety of the Burgundy introduced into was introduced 'melon', that was into Brittany from from Burgundy are two Muscadets, that in the the seventeenth century. There are in that the Loire. and that of the banks of the of Sèvres-et-Maine Sdvres-et-Maine and

BRITTANY. BRETAcNE BRETAGNE - Choice food products products are found BRITTAhIY. in abundance in Brittany, whether they originate in the the sea sea or on land. Excellent sheep (notably 'salt-meadow' 'salt-meadow' sheep) ca ttle are raised. and cattle Breton larder is is well weil stocked with all ail sorts of foods The Breton and all ail of first-class quality. Let Let us us grve give a rapid survey of and these. these. oysters, Among the seafoods are are Cancale and Morbihan oysters, and oysters found found in in the the rivers rivers Auray Auray and and Belon; clams, clams, and oysters cockles, winkles, onners, ormers, haliotes, spiny lobsters, lobsters, scallops, winkles, cockles, scallops, conger eels (which are cra bs, shrimps, eels (which sardines, conger Lorient sardines, crabs, shrimps, Lorient made into cotriade, cotiade, so popular with the Breton fishermen), made soles, soles, turbot, brill, plaice, mackerel, herrings, tunny. The ri vers produce pike, carp, trout, eels, the Odet eels, shad; the rivers good quality; and is of good Meat is famous. Meat are famous. and Aulne Aulne salmon salmon are mutton and pork are are excellent.

NOR. MANDY

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;;,,H';ilt" blonc. Flit cakes. 6urlli

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ATLANTIC ATLANTIC OCEA

'gg' ~ Vineyards Brittany mapof of Brittany Gastronomie Gastronomic map 155 155

BROCCIO BROCCIO The region of of Nantes Nantes also producesaaV.D.Q.S., alsoproduces V.D.e.S., the thebest best The region of the wines, very dry with withaa hint hintof ofacidity acidity which whichisis much much of the wines, very dry appreciated byconnoisseurs. connoisseurs. ItIt isisan anexcellent excellent accompaniaccompaniappreciated by ment for fish and shellfish. ment for fish and shellfish. Culinary specialities specialities - The The best best known known are areCornouaille Cornouaille Culinary

mixture of vegetables, such ofvegetables. such as ascarrOIs, carrots, onions, onions, Ieeks, leeks, 2.2.AA mixture celeryand and sometimes sometimes turnips turnipsslowly slowly cooked cooked inin butter. This butter.This celery sort of of brunoise brunoiseisis used usedfor for making making soups soupsor or asasaasupplesupplesort mentaryelement element for for certain certain forcemcats, forcemeats, sauces and sauces and mentary (q.v.). salpicons (q.v.). salpicons mixture of of vegetables vegetables eut cut into into small dice which which isis small dice 3.3. AA mixture an aromatic used as as an aromatic element element for for crayfish crayfish and and other other dishes. dishes. used (SeeCRAYF1SH, CRAYFISH, TRUFFLES.) TRUFFLES.) (See

buckwheat and bacon soup; cotriade - the soup of the Breton buckwheat and bacon .lOUp; cotrinde - the soup of the Breton fishermen similar similar to (q.v.) of to the the chaudrée chaudrCe (q.v.) of the the Aunis Aunis sailors; sailors; fishermen Morlaix Hams; liams; Ancenis Ancenis andouilles andouilles and andsausages, sausages, large large Morlaix anQuil!9s de de Bretagne; excellent black puddings; euimperl6 andouilles Bretagne; excellent black puddings; Quimperlé andouilletes; pike pike au an beurre beurre blanc; blanc; shad shad àd lala crème; crdme; Nantes Nintes andouille/es; bacon; roast leg of of salt-meadow salt-meadow lamb lamb with with beans beansca called,d bacon; roast leg lied 'à faIa br e tonne' ; buckwhe at g ir dle cak es and pancakes ; euimperlO bretonne'; buckwheal girdlecakes and pancakes; Quimperlé oat loaf loaf àd lala crème; uime; Quimper pancakes; Morlaix Morlaix brioches; brioches; Quimper pancakes; oal Lorient and and Quimper cakes; Ren (a kind Rennes mingaux (a kind of of Quimper cakes; Lorient nes mingaux cream cheese cheese similar similar to to the the Saumur Saumur crémets); crimets); Nantes Nantes fiai /al cream guillarets; biscuits. cakes and and guillarels; biscaits. cakes BROCCIO See CHEESE. BROCCIO -- See CHEESE.

Vegetable brunoise brunoise for for soups. soups. DRUNOlSE BRUNoTSE DE or LÉGUMES rEcurr,ms Vegetable Cut the the following following into into dice dice about about 33 mm. mm. - Cut inch) across: across: 33 small (150 g., small carrots carrots (150 g., 55 oz.), oz.), 1 small turnip turnip (!($ inch) I small (100 gg., (75 g., oz.),22 leeks leeks (75 (25 g., oz.),11 very g., very small small onion onion (25 (IOO .. 44 oz.), 3 oz.), 8.,3 oz.) and and 22 stalks (50 g., stalks wbite white celery celery (50 g., 22 oz.). oz.). Season Season these these 1I oz.) vegetables wi with pinch of salt and and aa pinch fine sugar of fine sugar and and simmer simmer vegetables th salt them in in aa covered pan on covered pan (2 oz., low heat on aa low g. (2 heat with with 50 50 g. oz.,* cup) them ! cup) butter. When When they they are are nicely nicely softened add 22 dl. pint, softened add dl. (1(| pint, butter. scant cup) cup) stock stock and and leave leave to to cook cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. At At the the seant last moment, add add aa tablespoon tablespoon cooked garden peas cooked garden peas and and aa la st moment, tablespoon diced diced French French string string beans. beans. tablespoon Add 22 or or 33 tablespoons tablespoons of of trus this mixture to (scant to every every litre litre (seant Add quart, generous generous quart) quart) soup. soup. quart, porJR porAGEs

POUR POTAGES -

BROCCOU. cgor.x BROCOLIS BRocoLF - The The flower flower heads heads whieh which BROC COLI. CHOUX develop in in the the leafaxils leaf axils are are eaten eaten before before they grown. they are are fully fully grown. develop They are also called broccoli tips. All methods of preparation They are aJso caUed broccoli tips. Ail methods ofpreparalion given for cauliflower cauliflower apply apply to to broccoli. broccoli. given for The fiower in this flower in this type type of cabbage is generally very of cabbage is generally very smal!. small. The Broccoli isis also also eaten for its eaten for its leaves leaves as as weil well as as its its fiowers. flowers. Broccoli BROCKET. DAGUET DAcuEr - The The na name given to young stag, to aa young stag, BROCKET. me given year and between one one year and eighteen eighteen months months old. The French old. The French between name dague/ daguet comes comes from from dague, dague, dagger, dagger, and and refers refen to to the the name young stag's shape of of the the young stag's horns. horns. shape In cookery, ail all recipes recipes for (q.v.) are for roebuck roebuck (q.v.) are suitable suitable for for ln cookery, brocket. brocket. BROOKLIME. sscclBuNcA - This plant is This plant is also also called called BROOKLIME. BECCABUNGA water pimpernel. is aa kind kind of of European European cress cress which water pimpernel. It is which grows wild on the banks of streams and ponds. grows wild on the banks of streams and ponds. It is eaten in salads like like watercress watercress and and can Il is eaten in salads can be be prepared prepared in all the (see CRESS). suitable for in ail the ways ways suitable for the the latter latter (see CRESS). It as a salad. 11 is is ordinarily ordinarily used used as a condiment condiment for for salad. BROUILLY Famous BROUILLY -- Famous red red Beaujolais Beaujolais wine. wine.

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prNcBAU Kitchen tool consisting of hair or bristle BRUSH. PINCEAU BRUSH. -- Kitchen tool consisting of or attached toa to ahandleused forbrushingwith meltedbutter or.oil 3ttached handleused for brushingwith melted butter or oil various articles articles intended intended for grilling. for grilling. various The brush brush isis also also used pastry-making, for used in in pastry-making, for buttering buttering The baking tins tins and and other other utensils, utensils, and and for brushing the the tops tops of of baking pastries wi with beaten egg. pastries th bea ten egg.

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BRUSSEI-S SPROUTS, SPROUTS. CHOUX cHoux DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES -- The buds BRUSSElS which develop develop in in Ihe the Ieafaxils leaf axils are are ealen eaten between October which and the the end end of of March. March. and Boiled Brussels Brussels sprouts. sprouts. CHOUX cHolrx DE BRuxELLEs A Boiled DE BRUXELLES À L'ANcLArsE - Trinl Trim the sprouts, which L'ANGLAISE the sprouts, which means means removing removing outer leaves which outer leaves which are either too hard hard or too withered, and cutting the of each sproul. sprout. Wash them well. cutting the base base of weil. Cook sprouts in salted water and drain. drain. Cook the the sprouts in boiling boiling salted water and Serve fresh butter Serve fresh butter separately. separately. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts with with cream. cream. cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUxELLTs BRUXELLES A À LA cntMe -- Half cook the sprouts in salted boiling water, drain Half cook CRÈME well, weIl, and and simmer simmer in in butter. butter. Cover Cover with boiling hoiling fresh cream cream to which which butter butter has has been been added. added. The The sprouts sprouts can can also also be be moistened moistencd with with a a Creon Creœn sauce sauce (ser., (see SAUCE) SAUCE) instead instead of cream. cream. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts il I'indienne. l'indienne. cno(rx CHOUX DE DE BRUxELrrs BRUXELLES A À L'INDIENNE L'INDIENNE -- Simmer Simmer the the sprouts in in butter butter and and moisten moisten with with aa curry curry sauce. sauce. Surround Surround with with a border border of rice riee cooked cooked the the Indian lndian way way (see (see RICE). RICE). Brusseb Brussels sprouts sprout~ in gfavy. gravy. cHolrx CHOUX DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES AU AU JUs JUS Simmer Sim mer the the sprouts sprouts in in butter butter until unril cooked, cooked, then then add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons rich rich veal veal stock. stock. Cook Cook aa little little longer longer so so that that the the sprouts sprouts can can get get well weil soaked soaked in in the the gravy. gravy. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts iil la la milanaise. milanaise, cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUxELLTs BRUXELLES A À LA MILANATSE-Boil MILANAISE - Boil the the sprouts sprouts and and drain drain them them well. weIl. Heap Heap them them on on aa buttered buttered dish dish which which has has been been sprinkled sprinkled with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with more more grated grated cheese, cheese, pour pour melted melted butter butter over over the the sprouts, sprouts, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oyen. Serve Serve with with Noisette Noisel/e butter bul/er (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). Brussels Brussels sprouts sprollts Mornay. Mornay. cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES MoRNAy MORNAY This This isis prepared prepared in in the the same sa me way way as as Cauliflower Cauliflower Mornay Mornay (see (see CAULIFLOWER) CAULIFLOWER) with wilh the the sprouts sprouts heaped heaped on on aa gratin gratin dish. dish. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts il la la polonaise. polonaise, cnoux CHOUX on DE nnuxnrrEs BR UXELLES AÀ poLoNAIsn LA LA POLONAISE -- Prepare Prepare like like Cauliflower Cauliflower aa lalapolonaise polonaise (see (see CAULIFLOWER). CA ULIFLOWER). Brussels Brussels sproub sprouts pur6e. purée. punnE PURÉE DE DE cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRTTxELLES BRUXELLES Prepare Prepare with with blanched blanched Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts simmered simmered in in butter, butter, ininthe thesameway same wayas asCauliflower Cauliflowerpurie(see purée (seeCAULIFLOWER). CAULIFLOWER). Brussels Brussels sproub sprouts salrd" salad.. seuoE SALADE DE DE cHor.x CHOUX DE DE BR{txELLEs BRUXELLES -

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BROUTES BROUTE..') or or BROUTONS BROUTONS @6arn (Béarn cookery) cookery) -- Old Old cabbage cabbage shoots, shoots, served served mainly mainly during during Lent. Lent. Trim and wash the cabbage and Trim and wash the cabbage and cook cook in in salted salted water. water. Drain Drain and and dry. dry. Season Season with with oil oil and and vinegar. vinegar. In ln some sorne villages villages in in the the Basses-Pyr6ndei Basses-Pyrénées aa mixture mixture of of leeks leeks and and white white cabbage, cabbage, cooked cooked together, together, drained, drained, pressed pressed and and pieces, is also called broutes. cut into cut into pieces, is also called broutes. (B6arn BROYE BROYE (Béarn cookery) cookery)

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Meal Meal prepared prepared from from white white or or (corn) roasted roasted maize maize (corn) flour. fiOUL 'If 'If white, white, that that is is to to say say unroasted, unroasted, flour fiour is is used, used, make make the the broye hraye u as an an ordinary ordinary bouilli. bouilli. Bring Bring some some vegetable vegelable stock stock or or simply simply salted saited water water to to the the boil boil and and little little by by little littie add add the the flour flour until uni il aa paste paste of of aa fairly fairly firm firm consistency consistency is is obtained. obtained. 'When 'When the the bouilli bouilli is is cooked, cooked, and and itit should should be be stirred stirred all ail the time during cooking it is served with a ladle, which the lime during cooking, it is served with a lad le, which should be dipped in fat prevent to should be dipped in fat to prevent the the bouilli bouilli sticking sticking to to it. il. 'Ifroasted 'Jf roastcd flour fiour isis used used (troustado (IrouS/ado or or tourrado, lourrado, as as they they say say in B6arn), you make aa well in Béarn), you make weil out out of ofit, it, moisten moisten with with the the liquid liquid indicated, blend well and proceed to cook. indicated, blend weU and proceed to cook. 'Cold broye can be cut into 'Co Id broye can be cut into slices sliccs and and fried fried in in sizzling sizzling fat fal golden.' (From until until golden.' (From Ia la Cuisine Cuisine m en Biarn, Béarn, by by Simin Simin Palay.) Palay.) BRUGNON BRUGNON - A A French French name name for for nectarine nectarine or or smoothsmoolhpeach. skinned skinned peach. For For methods methods of ofpreparation, preparation, see see PEACH. PEACH.

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BRUNOISE BRUNOISE-- This This word word has has the the following following meanings: meanings: l.1. AA method method of of shredding shredding vegetables vegetables very very finely. finely. (Thus, (Thus, people speak of shredding carrots, leeks, celery, into a people speak of sbredding carroIs, leeks, celery, inlo a brunoise.) All these ingredients are then cooked in butter or brunoise.) Ali these ingredients arc then cooked in butter or

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some other fat. sorne other fal.

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156 156

BUFFET BUFFET NoIR -- Variety of Saracen corn. BUCKWHEAT. BLÉ nr6 NOIR BUCKWHEAT. DE SARRASIN, garnish). GRUAU cnueu DE sorry garnish). Buckwheat (Russian @ussian soup (l+* or 88 dl. dl. (1 to 77 or ke. (2* sl-f NOIR Non. -- Add Add 1I kg. buckwheat to BLÉ Q* lb.) buckwheat work to to aa smooth water and and work pints, salted wann water pints) salted pints, 1l|t pints) oven for 2 hours. in hot oyen paste. Press into aa deep pan; bake in the surface, surface, and has fonned formed on on the which has Remove the crust which touching mixture into a pan without touching tumout the buckwheat buckwheat mixture turnout bottom and on the sides of the crust which has formed at the bottom the dish. (4 oz., g. (4 cup) butter, butter, and with 100 100 g. oz., t* cup) dough with Work the the dough (f inch) thick. Leave to cm. (t spread out on aa slab until it is 2 cm. cool under a weight. pastry-crttter and and brown brown these with aa pastry-clltter into biscuits eut Cut into biscuits with is made made of the the crusts use is with broth. broth. No use with butter. butter. Serve with left in the dish. See KASHA. Buckwheat kasha -- See

which is is family which BUTFALO. BUFFLE -- Member Member of of the the ox ox family BUFFALO. World. Buffaloes found in hot, swampy swampy countries of the Old WorId. are domesticated in in Italy Italy and and Asia. Asia. The American American buffalo, are is much larger than the the Asiatic more properly called called bison, is flesh of The ftesh buffalo. This This animal animal isis fast fast becoming extinct. extinct. The of buffalo. prepared in any any manner Italian buffaloes can be prepared and Italian Asiatic and suitable beef (q.v.). suitable for beef(q.v.).

Festive Festive buffet, 1785 1785

Boil the Boil the sprouts, drain weil, well, and and arrange arrange in in aa salad salad bowl. Season Season with pepper. Sprinkle with oil, vinegar, salt oil, vinegar, and pepper. salt and Sprinkle with chopped chervil or with salad herbs. Brussels sprouts sprouts sautéed saut6ed in butter. CHOUX cHoux DE in butter. DE BRUXELLES BRUxELLEs SAUTÉS lightly slurfs AU BEURRE BEURRE -- Boil and drain the sprouts. Sauté Saut6lightly in butter they are in butter until until they are brown. brown. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley.

large The word means aa large word buffet buffet means BLTFFET (Restaurant) BUFFET @estaurant) -- The of aa restaurant, on on near the the entrance entrance of tiered tiered table table often often set set near and pastries fish, co cold which dishes of meats, poultry, fish, Id sweets sweets and large manner. The The buffet buffet of of aa large are are arranged in in aa decorative decorative manner. choice edibles. edibles. restaurant is, is, in in fact, fact, aa show show of of choice in or near aa ballor near foods set set in ballLarge tables play of display of foods tables with aa dis The food food isis dispensed by aa room room are are also also called called buffets. dispensed by buffets. The guests come come to the table table to to be be served served with buùer butler and and the the guests to the pastries, and drinks; or or to and various drinks; sandwiches, sandwiches, cold cold meats, pastries, in cups. Buffets of of this type are are also also have consommé consomm6 served cups. Buffets this type served in arranged arranged for wedding lunches. lunches.

(A LA) BRUXELLOISE (À LA) -- Garnish pieces of Garnish for for pieces of meat, small or large, large, composed composed of Brussels sprouts sprouts and and pommes château. chArcau. BUCCAN. BOUCAN BoucAN -- Place where Indians cured their meat. The pplies to The word grid on word also also aapplies to the actual grid the actual which the on which smoking was done.

Buffet (Arts décoratifs) Bufet at at Marly, Marly, 1859 1859 (Arts ddcoratif$

157 r57

BUFFET BUFFET

The Thebuffet buffet Anonymous painting of the l8th century exhibited at the Pavillon de Marsan (1936) (M. Anonyroous painting of the 18th cent ury exhibited at the Pavillon de Marsan (1936) (M.Iion LéonHelft) Helft)

158 158

BULLY.BEEF BüLLY-BEEF

of Nantua General view of

giblets with with chestnuts; chestnuts; truffied giblets turkey; truffled ears; truffled truffied turkey; calves' ears; calves' Cilestine; chicken Céüwine; chickm fricassée; Bresse truffled truffied chicken; chicken; chicken Bresse fricassCe; chicken jugged hare de ChâtChdtgdteau de Diane de hare de de Diane de foies blondes; jugged gâteau foies blondes; Bugey salC of of Bugey The salé of woodcock. The eaumorand; Bernardini salmis of eaumorand; just as wateras anguries, anguries, aa waterregion, just is the national dish the region, the national dish of of the is Bugey The well-known well-known Bugey with Belley. The melon salad, is assoèiated assodiated with melon following at Christmas; Christmas; the following eaten at ftors-d'euvre eaten rissole is a hot hors-d'œuvre proportions will make aa dozen rissoles. dozen rissoles. proportions pieces. Clean Clean g. (9 into small small pieces. roast turkey oz.) roast turkey into Cut 250 250 g. Cut e oz.) hours and cook cook for for 33 hours (5 oz.) cut up, up, and g. (5 thoroughly, cut 150 g. tripe thoroughly, oz.) tripe 150 (q.v.) beef stock, stock, wine and and beef white wine of white in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q. in v.) of bouquet of of pepper, onions and aa small small bouquet onions and with salt, salt, pepper, seasoned with seasoned in butter without onion in butter without chopped onion chervil. Cook Cook aa chopped and chervil. thyme and and with salt meats, season season with salt and add the the meats, allowing itit to to brown, brown, add allowing juices, quantity of roast turkey turkey juices, pepper, moisten of roast with aa small small quantity moisten with pepper, liquor has has until the the liquor minutes. Simmer Simmer until for 55 or and sauté or 66 minutes. saut6 for and (2 oz., cup) large large add 50 oz., t* cup) and add 50 g.g. (2 half, and boiled down down by by half, boiled cool. Leave to to cool. currants. Leave currants. (* inch) inch) pastry, roll about 55 mm. mm. (t puff pastry, roll out out about Make sorne some puff Make onto filling onto rectangles. Spoon Spoon sorne some filling into small small rectangles. cut into thick, cut thick, in the and bake bake in the with beaten egg, and fold over, beaten egg, brush with these, fold over, brush these, oyen. oven.

years ago ago the A few few years cARE -- A BUFFET (Station). BUFFET DE DE GARE BUFFEI (Station). series of Railways) initiated aa series S.N.C.F. (National French French Railways) S.N.C.F. and gastonomiques'. Those Lille, Épernay Epernay and Those of of Lille, 'buffets 'buffets gastronomiques'. reputation. A vignon have an especially especially high reputation. Avignon and BUFFETER -- Action of drawing-off wine from aa barrel and drawing-offwine to mean buffet' used used to 'Servir àd buffet' replacing water. 'Servir replacing it it with with water. watered guests with which had had been liberally watered serving guests with wine which down.

part of today the which isis today BUGEY -- Includes of Savoy Savoy which Includes the the part was born in Belley, born in département Brillat-Savarin was Ain. Brillat-Savarin departemeil of of Ain. of Bugey. dlpartement of which old département the old town of the which was the the chief town in France. France. among the best in The The cuisine caisine of of this area is said to be among and ail all for its its crayfish, crayfish, and Nantua, celebrated for Nantua, in in particular, isis celebrated there. The The found there. the are to to be be found famous cheeses of Burgundy are the famous cheeses of plump capons, chickens, ducks ducks markets capons, chickens, choice plump markets are are full full of of choice pike abound abound in in and pike and lamb. Trout Trout and and the best salt-meadow lamb. the best perch and and lavaret, perch the lake supplies supplies lavaret, and the the rivers, and the Bourget lake and the the hillsides and char. ,are noted, noted, and and the the hillsides hams,are The country char. The country hams also game. This fertile region region also plains This fertile provide succulent plains provide succulent game. great variety variety of of other other prod uces truffles, produces morels, and and aa great truffies, morels, mushrooms. Belley Culinary usage ; Belley sausage; klley sa ham; Belley Salt ham; Cnlinary specialities specialities -- Salt 'cardinalised crayfish fondue; crayfish croq' crayfish';'; crayfishcroqBugey rissoles; rissoles; 'cardinalised fondue; Bugey du lafagon du uettes; char àd lafaçon la Nantua; Nantua; char tails àd la uettes; timbale timbale of of crayfish crayfish tails gdteaux; crayfish tails au au lac quenelles and crayfish tails lavaret gâteaux; and lavaret lac du du Bourget; Bourget; quenelles truffie s ; gratin la crème ;fillet ofbeefstuddedwith black truffles; gr at in ;pikeà ; pike d la cr dme fille t of be ef s tudde d wit h black Y ah omey braised ions ;; round v e al with w it h Valromey of veal w it h on onions r ound of br aise d leg le g of mut t on with of mutton stufed black black truffles; tufies; stuffed and black sweetbreads and black morels; morels: ca/ves' calves' sweetbreads

for anchusa, name for anchusa, aa BUGLossE -- Common Common name BUGLOSS. BUGLOSSE BUGLOSS. as aa salad, flowers are are eaten eaten as salad, plant also known as as alkanet. alkanet.Its also known plant l ts f10wers great have been been aa great said to have and sa tonic, and considered to to be be aa tonic, considered id to leaves are are eaten eaten regions the the leaves In sorne Louis XIII. XIII. In some regions favourite of of Louis favourite prepared the as spinach. way as spinach. same way the same prepared

;

dough rolled-out dough made from from roJied-out fritter, made kind of of fritter, A kind BUGNES -- A BUGNES 'capital' of the of the Lyons isis the the 'capital' oil. Lyons fried inin oil. and fried which isis cut cut up up and which bugnes. bugnes.

plant Biennial plant BULBEUX -- Biennial cERFEUIL BULBEUX CHERVIL. BULBOUS VIL. CERFEUIL BULBOUS CHER fecula rich inin fecula are rich which are roots, which for its its tuberous tuberous roots, cultivated cultivated for prepared roots are are prepared flavour. The The roots aromatic flavour. and and have have aa strong strong aromatic artichokes. like Chinese Chinese artichokes. like

Bugey Bugey crayfish crayfish

young bulls that than that tougher than bulls isis tougher Flesh of of young TAUREAU -- Flesh BULL. BLTLL. TAUREAU very quality. The flesh of animalsisisvery good quality. The f1esh ofold old animais but of of good of of beef, beef, but musky inin taste. taste. and often often musky tough, tough,and meat for tinned tinned meat term for Slang tenu BULL Y-BEEF. ENDAUBAGE ENDAUBAcE - - Slang BLJLLY-BEEF. forces. armed forces. the armed supplied to the supplied to 159 159

BUNDENFLEISCH BUNDENFLEISCH BUNDENFLEISCH -- German German word word meaning meaning Grisons Grisons salt salt BUNDENFLEISCH beef. beef. piece of Pickle aa lean lean piece meat for for 66days, of meat days, take out of take out of the the brine brine Pickle and hang hang for for 55 or or 66 months. months. This pickling isis done This pickling done in in the the and Swiss canton canton of of Grisons Grisons in in November, November, and and the the salted meat salted meat Swiss public the sold to to the the public following April. the following April. When When taken taken out out of of the the sold put in brine itit isis put in aa smoke-curing smoke-curing house house for for one one day, day, except except brine in the the Engadine, Engadine, where pickling isis done where pickling done commercially commercially on on aa in large scale, and the scale, and the beef beef isis not not smoke-cured. smoke-cured. large BUNG. BONDE BoNDE -- Wooden Wooden stopper stopper for for barrel barrel bung-holes. bung-holes. BUNG.

BURGUNDY. BOURGOGNE souncocNE - - Burgundy Burgundy isis the the region region of of BURGUNDY. France where where the food isistoto be the best bestfood had, and and itit enjoys behad, enjoysthe the France gastronomes for esteemof of gastronomes quality and for the the quality and variety variety of its ofits esteem wines. wines. We are are beholden beholden to its excellent to its excellent cuisine for aamethod cuisine for method of of We preparation called called àd lala bourguignonne, bourguignonne, used used mainly mainly for for preparation large cuts cuts of of braised braised meat, meat, also also for poultry;aa for eggs, eggs, fish fishand andpoultry; large red wine garnish of wine sauce sauce with with aa gamish mushrooms and of mushrooms and small red small onions. on ions. Ain isis the poultry isis raised; the district district where where the the best best poultry raised, and and Ain where the the town town of of Belley, Belley, associated associated with with Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, isis where situated. Nantua Nantua evokes evokes visions visions of crdme; Saôneof crayfish crayfish àrila/acrème; Sa6nesituated. et-Loire has has the given its the town town of of Mâcon, Mdcon, which which bas hasgiven its name name to to et-Loire one of of our our best best wines; wines; the Dijon, may the Côte-d'Or, C6te-d'Or, with with Dijon, may be besaid one said to be be one one of produces gastronomy; the of the the capi capitals of gastronomy; Yonne produces the Yonne tais of to Chablis wines, gourmets. wines, esteemed esteemed by by gourmets. Chablis The Burgundy Burgundy larder larder isis abundantly abundantly rich. pasture rich. ln In the The the pasture lands of of Charolais give succulent Charolais the the cattie cattle give lands succulent beef. The beef. The poultry of Bresse isis considered considered among of Bresse among the the best in France. France. poultry best in ground and In Morvan, Morvan, ground game abounds. and winged winged game abounds. The In The woodwoodcock of of the the Dombes Dombes marshes marshes isis unrivalled. unrivalled. cock ponds, rivers In the rivers and the ponds, pike, char, and streams, In streams, pike, char, trout, trout, trout and and crayfish crayfish are are found. salmon trout found. The The escargots salmon escargots of of Burgundy are are most most succulent. Burgundy succulent. Among Among other other excellent excellent products are are Courtivron Courtivron and and Oyonnax Oyonnax morels, products morels, St St George's George's agaric, cèpes cipes and and other mushrooms, found other mushrooms, found in agaric, in abundance abundance in in the woods woods and and fields, fields, and and the the cboice the choice vegetables vegetables cultivated cultivated in Auxonne and around Auxonne and around Dijon. Dijon. in The fruit fruit of Burgundy orchards of the The the Burgundy orchards isis famous: famous: SaintSaintBris cherries; cherries; and and blackcurrants Bris blackcurrants used not only prepare used not only to to prepare famous Cassis Cassis liqueur liqueur made made in the famous in Dijon, Dijon, but also for but also for aa vast vast of sweetmeats. sweetmeats. Dijon Dijon mustard mustard isis considered number of considered the the best; best; condiments seasoned pickled gherkins, condiments seasoned with with vinegar, vinegar, such gherkins, as pickled such as are also also made in in Dijon. Dijon. are The region region which, The which, with with Bordeaux Bordeaux and proand Champagne, Champagne, produces magnificent magnificent wines, produces excellent duces wines, produces excellent cheeses cheeses to to

BUNTING. BRUANT BRUANT -- Genus Genus of aquatic, web-footed of aquatic, web-footed birds, birds, BUNTING. found in in the the marches marches of Bresse and of Bresse and Dauphiné. Dauphin6. ItIt isis prepared prepared found in the (see DUCK, the same same way way as as wild wild duck duck (see DIJCK,'Wild duck). in Wild duck). BLJRBOT. LOTTE LorrE DE nB RIVIÈRE nrvrinr -- Species Species of of freshwater freshwater fish fish BURBOT. with long long dorsal dorsal fins, fins, aa long long tail tail fin, fin, and and drooping drooping barbels barbels with on the the chin. chin. on Bubot Iiver. liver. FOIE ron DE DE LOTTE LorrE DE oE RIVIÈRE Rrwtns -- Prepared Prepared in in the the Burbot same way way as as the the soft roes of of various various fish, soft roes fish, tbough though itit requires requires same longer poaching poaching than than soft roes. soft roes. longer The liver liver is is highly prized by highly prized poached connoisseurs. It by connoisseurs. It isis poached The in white white wine wine and and used garnishes. ItIt isis used for for various various Lenten Lenten gamishes. in also made (q.v.). pdti (q.v.). made into into pâté also

(Butter-bur, Beggar's BLTRDOCK (Butter-bor, Beggar's buttons). buttons). BARDANE BARDANE -BURDOCK perennial plant Hardy perennial plant which grows grows along along paths on on the the roadroadHardy in the hedgerows. hedgerows. It side and and in It isis also also called called herbe herbe aux aux teigneux teigneux side (scurvy grass) grass) because in the past its because in the past its leaves leaves were were used used as as (scurvy poultices for for certain kinds kinds of sores. sores. The The fresh fresh spring spring root is is poultices well known known as as aa depurative and particularly useful is particularly and is useful in in the the weil treatment of of furunculosis. treatment The tea tea made made from from its its leaves leaves is is refreshing and and stimula stimulates tes The the digestion. digestion. It It soothes inflammations inflammations of the the stomach stomach and and the is an an excellent remedy remedy for for stomach stomach ulcers. is young shoots and In Scotland young peeled roots and peeled roots of of burdock In are used in in cooking; cooking; they are prepared as are prepared as salsify. are

Spring in in Burgundy Burgundy Spring

160 160

BURGUNDY BURGUNDY Butteaux, Butteaux, Germigny, Germigny, Pougny, Pougny, the the famous famous Epoisses Époisses cheeses cheeses

(which (which are are made made in in the the Yonne), Yonne), Saint-Florentin, Saint-Florentin, Passin Passin best which, which, according according to to some sorne experts, experts, is is as as good good as as the the. best Sa6ne-etthe and goat cheeses Morvan varioui Gruydre, Gruyère, various Morvan goat cheeses and the Saône-et-

Loire cream cheeses. Loirecream cheeses. great For For centuries centuries Burgundy Burgundy has has been been the the land land of of great given gastronomical gastronomical feasts. feasts. The The most most characteristic characteristic were were given at at the the time time of of grape-harvesting. grape-harvesting. Phil6as Philéas Gilbert Gilbert wrote wrote aa description of these these feasts: feasts: 'From 'From the the moment moment the the village village description of crier crier had had sounded sounded the the call cali (the (the roll roll of of the the drum drum before before the the the and vigne proclamation), père de de la la vigne and the proclamation), when when only only the the pire masters masters of of wine wine layering layering had had the the word, word, until until the the evening, evening, press was when of grapes grapes crushed crushed by by the the wine wine press was when the the last last cask cask of joy and song. all was vats, poured poured into into the the vats, ail was joy and song. 'And 'And as as aa compensation compensation for for the the mid-day mid-day meal, meal, the the supper supper potig traditional with the feast, promised a veritable menu menu promised a veritable feast, with the traditional potée its its roiust robust fragrance fragrance teasing teasing the the men men and and women women wine wine choux harvesters it was was ready. ready . La La tisane tisane fu de choux harvesters long long before before it was Then there say. sucrie as Henri Henri II Il used used to to say. Then there was sucrée avec avec de de lard, lard, as for the occasion sacrificed a and sheep, goose taribaude, d la goose à la taribaude, and a sheep, sacrificed for the occasion The strange yet ind and transformed transformed into into strange yet exquisite exquisite ragofits. ragoûts. The

-

Display Display of of grapes grapes and and apples apples from from Dijon Dijon

accompany accompany them. them. Among Among those those highly higbly esteemed esteemed by by gastronomes gastronomes are are Gex Gex blue-veined blue-veined cheese cheese which which has has aa certain certain Soumaintrain, CiteaLx, similarity to to Roquefort; Roquefort; Soumaintrain, Cîteaux, Beugnon, Beugnon,

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AUPEIN 161 161

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Gastronomic map mapof of Burgundy Burgundy Gastronomie

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BURGUNDY flesh of grandam of of tbis this sheep, sheep, the the grandam flock, at of the the flock, at times times tasted tasted flesh (to say grease (to of wool wool grease nothing of say nothing of its its toughness!) toughness !) but, but, to to of jugs poured go down, make itit go pot-bellied jugs down, the the pot-bellied poured forth forth cool cool make 'plenty of wine; itit was was 'plenty grub' and of grub' and carousing carousing to to one's one's heart's heart's wine; content ... . ".. content 'Ah! Those Those admirable admirable Burgundian Burgundian meals, meals, when great when aa great 'Ah! profusion of delectable dishes of delectable dishes isis served, served, such as escargotssuch as escargots profusion la bourguignonne, bourguignonne, naturally! naturally! -- meurelle (q.v.) of meurette (q,v.) various of various ild la (q.v.) with frsh; andoui/lelles andouillettes (q.v.) with beans; (q.v.) beans; aa succulent succulent dflube daube (q.v.) fish; of beef; beef; the the traditional traditional ferchuse la ménagère, minagire, fiammiche ferchuse ild la of flammiche poireaux,fouie au aux poireaux,fouée au lard, lard, and and the the Burgundy Burgundy rigodon rigodon!'l' aux Cnfinary specialities specialities -- To To Philéas Phildas Gilbert, Gilbert, the the escargot, escargot, Colinary prepared in in accordance accordance with with Burgundian Burgundian rites, rites, eaten eaten prepared scalding hot hot as as itit isis taken taken out garlic-scented butter out of its garlic-scented of its butter scalding gastronomy of bath, symbolises symbolises the the gastronomy of Burgundy, Burgundy. But But there there isis bath, an infinite infinite variety variety of of other other dishes, dishes, recipes recipes for for which which will will be be an found in in alphabetical alphabetical order. order. found Potie bourguignonne, bourguignonne, which which isis similar similar to various French to various French Potée poties, for for each each region region of France has pofte; pochouse pochouse of France has its its potée; potées, (q.v.) and and various various freshwater freshwater fish (q.v.); beef fish matelotes matelotes (q.v.); beef ild la ta (q.v.) bourguignonne, which which must must be made with be made with red red wine; wine; round round of of bourguignonne, veal ild la la crème; crime; andouille andouille wilh with white (a white beans; beans; ferchuse ferchuse (a vea/ corruption of of the the word word fressure, pluck); daube i.e. pluck); daube bourbourfressure, i.e. corruption guignonne;flammiche with with /eeks;fouée, leeks;foude,whichis cream flan flan guignonne;fiammiche which is aa cream filled with with slices slices of of bacon bacon and and sprinkled sprinkled with with walnut walnut oil; oil; filled poulet young pigeons au sang; sang; young gobinette; canard la gobineue; canard au au pou/el au pigeons ilh la jugged hare laurier; jugged hare àd /a la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; saddle saddle of of hare hare àd la la laurier; Piron; omelelle omelette au au sang. sang. Piron; There are are pike la crème; udme; Amay-le-Duc Arnay-le-Duc andouille; andouille; Sens Sens There pike àd la andauillette; Dijon Dijon ham honn wilh with parsley; the sausages sausages of of Belley Belley andouillelle; parsley; the (Brillat-Savarin's native crayfish tails tails àd la Nantua; la Nan/ua; (Brillat-Savarin's native place); place); crayfish pike quenelles wilh with crayfish; crayfisft; Pemollet Pernollet chicken chicken ild la la crème; crime; pike quenelles coq au &t chambertin; chambertin; sucking-pig sucking-pig ilit la la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; ham coq Mm rigodon, and and aa whole of charcuterie: charcuterie: large and smal! small rigodon, whole range range of large and sausages; black black pudding and pork which are are made in sausages; pudding and pork pies, pies, which made in the Sa6ne-et-Loire and and in Côte-d'Or, Ain, Ain, Saône-et-Loire in Yonne. Yonne. the COte-d'Or, Among and pastries sweets and Burgundy Among the the cakes, cakes, sweets pastries of of the the Burgundy (which can region rigodon (q.v.) can also region are are the the rigodon (q.v.) (which also be be made made as as a dessert or or sweet sweet course); dessert course); Lower Lower Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes; cakes; Upper cakes known Upper Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes known as as pognoi; pognon; pancakes, pancakes, called called matefaims malefaims ifr iil Upper Upper Burgundy; Burgundy; bugnes bllgnes or or couques; coliques; and Auxerre Sens and Sens Auxerre gougire; gougère; Louhans Louhans corgniottes; co rgn io Iles ; chamoure chamoure -- aa kind kind of of marrow marrow flan flan which which is is mainly mainly made made in in Lower Lower Mflconnais; Mâconnais; fruit fruit tartouillat; larlouillal; tarte larle aux aux boulettes; bou/eues; flamusse fiamusse gaudes. bressane; and gaudes. bressane; and Among Among local local pastry pastry and and confectionery confectionery specialities specialities are are Dijon and pain ipice; Avallon Dijon nonnettes nonnel/es and pain dd'épice; Avallon and and Chablis Chablis bis cuits ; Sens ingue s; Arnay-le-Duc biscuits; Sens macaroons macaroons;; Chabli Chabliss mer meringues; Amay-le-Duc mar z ip ans ; noug a t ine s ; bblackcurrant lac k cur r ant fondant s ; sug ar - c o a t e d marzipans; nougatines; fondants; sugar-coaled jams, among cherries cherries (cherries (cherries in in petticoats); petticoats); excellent excellentjams, among which which the known are are Chanceavx Chanceaux raisini, raisiné, confiture confiture d'ipined'epinethe best best known vinCtte: and Flavigny Flavigny aniseed aniseed sweets. sweets. vinelle; and To To conclude conclude the the list list of of local local produce produce are are the the esteemed esteemed cassis and prunelle, cassis liqueurs liqueurs made made at at Dijon; Dijon; and prunelle, made made at at Flavigny. Flavigny. Wines Wines -- The The quality quality and and variety varicty of of Burgundy Burgundy wines wines assure assure them them aa leading leading place place not not only only in in France France but but in in the the world. world. Viticultural Viticultural Burgundy Burgundy goes goes beyond beyond the the frontiers frontiers of of historic historie Burgundy. Burgundy. It It extends extends across across fo:ur four dipartements: départements: Yonne, Côte-d'Or, Sa6ne-et-Loire Saône-et-Loire and and Rhdne, Rhône, embracing embracing Yonne, C6te-d'Or, the the great great regions regions of of Chablis, Chablis, Cdte Côte de de Nuits, Nuits, C6te Côte de de Beaune, Beaune, Cdte chalonnaise, Côte chalonnaise, MAconnais, Mâconnais, Beaujolais. Beaujolais. Each Each of of these these regions regions comprises comprises several several appellations, appel/ations, some some communes. communes, some sorne vineyards, vineyards, besides besides regional regional or'generic' or 'generic' appellations appellations (see (see accompanying accompanying table). table). Chablis. The little town of Chablis Chablis in in Yonne Yonne has has given given its its Chablis. The little town of name and name to to this this excellent excellent dry dry wine wine with with its its greeny-gold greeny-gold hue hue and delicate delicate bouquet. bouquet. It lt is is aa wine wine that tha! matures matures beautifully beautifully in in

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io*r.

-

t tr

Buxv vo

E - ET - LO

AUT.I E R Red wines O Red .. Whire wines wines oO White D6partement -, Departement .'V'\ boundary "1n boundary : Railway Railway = Scale Scala --Y

'':\

10 20K o', 10 0 0 10

10

Map of the Map or the Burgundy Burgundy wine-growing wine-growing district di"trÎct

good good vintage vintage years. years. Connoisseurs enjoy drinking it it with oysters, shellfish. oysters, seafood, seafood, fish fish and shellfish. COte Nuits. This is the name Côte de de Nuils. name given to the northern northem part of of the the C6te-d'Or, Côte-d'Or, which which begins south south of of Dijon Dijon with with the the commune commune of of Fixin Fixin and ends south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Nuits-Saint-Georges, The vineyards climb halfway halfway up up a line of of hills hills situated west west

of of the the autoroute autoroute Dijon-Mdcon. Dijon-Mâcon.

The The C6te Côte de de Nuits Nuits produces mostly mostly red red wines. wines, These strong, strong, full-bodied, full-bodied, glowing, glowing, fragrant fragrant wines wines enjoy enjoy an excellent reputation reputation and and accompany roast roast or or grilled grilled meat, meat, game game (even (even when when itit is is high), high), piquant piquant dishes dishes and cheeses cheeses to to perfection. perfection. Cbte de Beaune. Beaune. This This comes cornes immediately immediately after after the the COte Côte de de Côte de Nuits Nuits and and gets gets its its name name from from the the village village of of Beaune. Beaune. Cdte Côte de de Beaune ex tends from from Ladoix-Serrigny Ladoix-Serrigny in in the the north north to to Beaune extends Santenay, Santenay, on on the the borders borders of of the the ddpartemmr département of of Sa6ne-etSaône-etLoire Loire in in the the south. south. Apart Apart from from some sorne great great red red wines, wines, Cdte Côte de de Beaune Beaune produces produces some sorne very very fine fine dry dry white white wines, wines, the the most most famous famous being being Montrachet, Montrachet, with with its its delicious delicious fragrance fragrance of of fresh fresh almonds. almonds. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet often often equals equals it; it; the the Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet and and B0tarde-Montrachet Bâtarde-Montrachet have have better better lasting lasting qualities. qualities. The The powerful powerful Corton-Charlemagne, Corton-Charlemagne, the the fragrant, fragrant, full-bodied full-bodied Meursault Meursault are, are, like Iike all aIl the the wines wines of of this this region, region, wines wines to to serve serve with with fish fish and and shellfish; shellfish; they they also also make make fitting fitting companions corn panions to to the the richest richest of.sauces. of sauces. The The red red wines wines are are as as good good as as those those of of the the C6te Côte de de Nuits. Nuits. They They can can be be drunk drunk with with meat, meat, but but itil isis preferable preferable (apart (apan from from

t62 162

BURGUNDY BURG UND Y

(from contemporary The contemporary tapestries) tapestries) The manufacture Burgundy wines, wines, 1470 1470 (from manufacture of of Burgundy

whereas great wines come from from the the wines of the Côte-d'Or C6te-d'Or come whereas the the great of the black black Pinot. Pinot. The in the the Beaujolais begins begins in district of of Beaujolais The wine-growing wine-growing district département extends north and and extends in the the north dipartemenl of Sa6ne-et-Loire in of Saône-et-Loire southwards 'generic' appelappelLyons. The The 'generic' of Lyons. southwards to to the the environs environs of lations 'Beaujolais supérieur' 'Beaujolais', 'Beaujolais and sup6rieur' and are 'Beaujolais', lations are 'Beaujolais-Villages'; very 'Beaujolais-Villages'; they are the lightest varieties varieties and and very they are the lightest drinkable. drinkable. Nine rit aa special growths me each of of them them merit Nine growths special appellation, appellation, each (see accompanying with accompanying table). table). individual character character (see with its its own own individual It most Beaujolais, Beaujolais, which which noting that contrary to to most It isis worth worth noting that contrary must young, the and Moulin-àMoulin-dFleurie and the Morgon, Morgon, Fleurie must be be drunk drunk young, Vent year -- be good year laid down. be laid down. Vent can can -- in in aa good

Corton keep them for less less rich rich dishes dishes than than to keep them for Corton or or Pommard) to those that Côte wines usually accompany. C6te de de Nuits wines usually accompany. Côte line of the line of the of This isis the continuation of the continuation Cbte chalonnaise. This sun-drenched Dijon. The The of Dijon. south of hill slopes that begin begin south sun-drenched hill slopes that red famous are worthy worthy of of their their famous Rully, are red Mercurey, Mercurey, the white Rully, the white brothers of (There isis also white Mercurey Mercurey also aa white Cdte-d'Or. (There of the the Côte-d'Or. and (white) not forget Montagny (white) We must must not forget the the Montagny and aa red red Rully.) Rully.) We and . (both red red and and white). white). and the the Givry Givry (both Mâconnais. nder the Mdcon Mdcon, Mâcon the appellations appellations Mâcon, Mdconnais. U Under supérieur (white only) find red, red, only) we we find and Mâcon-Villages Mdcon-Villages (white sup6rieur and rosé good vinified, make make good when weil well vinified, which, when and white white wines wines which, ros6 and carafe carafe wines. wines. Aiso dry Mdconnais wines wines there there isis aa superb superb dry among the Also among the Mâconnais wh(te Pouilly-Fuiss6 which, which, white wine wine known world: Pouilly-Fuissé known ail all over over the the world: gastronomically gastronomically speaking, with Chablis interchangeable with Chablis speaking, isis interchangeable wines Two communal communal Beaune. Two C6te de de Beaune. wines or or those of the the Côte those of appellations, are inin and Pouilly-Loché Pouilly-Loch6 are appellations, Pouilly-Vinzelles Pouilly-Vinzelles and the the same class. same class. Beaujolais. the Burguody Burgundy wines, wines, classerl among among the Beaujolais. Although Although classer.! Beaujolais personality. Its name with aa strong Its name Beaujolais isis aa wine wine with strong personality. evokes y wines, pleasant to are pleasant wines, the the kind kind that that are to light, fruit fruity evokes Iight, drink 'gulping' wines, young and fresh --'gulping' wines, the the and fresh drink when when they are young they are growers growers call the Gamay Gamay kingdom, kingdom, belongs to to the call them. them. ItIt belongs

LIST CONTROTENS LIST OF OF APPELLATIONS APPELLATIONS CONTRÔLÉES OF y BURGUNDY OF BURGUND White (R) wines (W) and red (R) wines and red White (W) Appellations rig ionale s Appe llat ions régionales Bourgogne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Bourgogne Bourgogne ros6...................... Bourgogne clairet clairet ou ou rosé Bourgogne Bourgogne aligoté aligot6............................ Bourgogne passe-tout-grain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... . . . . .. Bourgognepasse-tout-grain.. Bourgogne grand ordinaire. Bourgogne grand ordinaire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 163 163

W, W, RR RR W W RR W, W, RR

BUSH BUSH Rigion de deChablis Chablis Région grand cru. Chablis grand cru .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis premier cru Chablis premier cru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis Chablis Chablis...................... . ........... Perit Chablis chablis ... Petit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

SampignyJbs-Maranges ......... .. . .. . ... . .. Sampigny-lès-Maranges . Saint-Romain ............................... ... Saint-Romain . Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes C6tesdeBeaune ....... Bourgogne-Hautes de Beaune

w W w W w W w W

Great wines wines of of Côte Cbte de de Beaune Beaune GreaI Corton..................................... . Corton Corton-Charlemagne Corton-Charlemagne ...................... . Bdtard-Montrachet Bâtard-Montrachet ......... . Bienvenue-Bdtard-Montrachet Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet ................. . Criots-Bdtard-Montrachet... Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet ............. . ....... Chevalier-Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet . . . . ........ . . . . .. Montrachet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Montrachet.

C6te de deNuilS Nuits Côte

Chambolle-Musigny .......................... . Chambolle-Musigny Fixin. Fixin.............. . ......... . Gevrey-Chambertin ..................... . Gevrey-Chambertin Morey-Saint-Denis Morey-Saint-Denis ........................... . Nuits-Saint-Georges . . . . . . . . . . . . Nuits-Saint-Georges. . ....... . Vougeot .......................... . Vougeot Vosne-Roman6e ............................. . Vosne-Romanée . C6te de de Nuits-Villages Nuits-Villages .................... ... Côte . Bourgogne-MarsannayJa-Cdte .. . Bourgogne-Marsannay-Ia-Côte Bourgogne-Vins fins fins des des Hautes Hautes Côtes Cdtes de Nuits..... de Nuits ... Bourgogne-Vins

R R R R RR

w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R R R R R R R R R

Beaujolais Beaujolais Beaujolais. ........... . Beaujolais.. Beaujolais sup6rieur Bea ujolais su périeur . Beaujolais-Villages Beaujolais-Villages ........................... . Brouilly. . . .. .... Brouilly. . . ...................... Ch6nas Chénas ... . . ........ . Chiroubles Chiroubles. ... . ........................ . C6tes de Brouilly . . . . . . . .. . ............. . de Brouilly. Côtes Fleurie. . . . . . Fleurie. . .......... . Juli6nas Juliénas ........................... .

Great wines wines of of Côte COte de de Nuits Nuits GreaI

Bonnes Mares Mares ............................... . Bonnes Chambertin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chambertin. . ....... . Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. Bbze. . Cham bertin-Clos de Chapelle-Chambertin ......................... . Chapelle-Chambertin Charmes or or Mazoyéres-Chambertin Mazoyeres-Chambertin ............ . Charmes Clos de de la la Roche Roche ..... Clos Clos Saint-Denis. Saint-Denis ... . . . . . . . . . . Clos . ............ . Clos de de Tart Tart................................. . Clos . Clos de de Vougeot Vougeot ............................. . Clos Ech6zeaux .................................. . Echézeaux Grands-Ech€zeaax ........................... . Grands-Echézeaux Griottes-Chambertin ......................... . Griottes-Chambertin La Tâche Tdche ................................... . La Latricibres -Chambertin .............. . Latricières-Chambertin Mazis-Chambertin ........................... . Mazis-Chambertin Musigny .................................... . Musigny Richebourg Richebourg ................................. . La ... Romanée.. ..... . ........... . La Roman6e Roman6e-Conti. . Romanée-Conti ............. . Roman6e-Saint-Vivant Romanée-Saint-Vivant ........................ . Ruchottes-Chambertin Ruchottes-Chambertin. . ................. . COte chalonnaise Côte cha/onnaise

Givry. Givry...........

. ............ Mercurey Mercurey ................................... Montagny. Montagny ................................... Rully. Rully.......... . ...................

...

..

..

RR

W. R W,R W W W W W W W W W W W W W,R W. R W, R W,R R R R R R R

R R R R R R R R R R R R

Mdconnais Mâconnais

M6con.. Mâcon Mdcon supérieur. sup6rieur Mâcon . . . . . . . . . . ......... . Micon-Villages. Mâcon-Villages .............................. . Pouilly-Fuiss6 .............................. .. Pouilly-Fuissé . Pouilly-Vinzelles ............................ . Pouilly-Vinzelles . Pouilly-Loche ... Pouilly-Loché ................... .

W. R W,R W, n W,R W W W W W W

R R

(In Il). (rNr) BUSH a). BUrssoN BlJSH (ln BU1SS'ON (EN)

R R R R R R R R

lobsters buisson, spiny lobsters en buissor. Smelts Smelts and en buisson, spiny lobslers en buisson. lobs/ers en other other small fish are also frid [ried and arranged 'in a a bush'.

w,R W,R w,R W,R w W w,R W,R

.

w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R

COte Côte de de Beaune Beaune

Morgon.......................... . Morgon Moulin-i-Vent.... . Moulin-à-Vent Saint-Amour . ... Saint-Amour

w,R W,R

. . . .

Aloxe-Corton.. Aloxe-Corton. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ...

Auxey-Duresses. Auxey-Duresses. . ................... . Beaune Beaune. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .... . Blagny. Blagny... . ............... . Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet ........................ Chorey-lbs-Beaune Chorey-lès-Beaune ................ . C6tes Côtes de de Beaune Beaune. . . . . . . ........... Cdtes . Côtes de de Beaune-Villages. Beaune-Villages ...................... Ladoix Ladoix ................................... . Meursault Meursault. . . . . . ........... Month€lie Monthélie............ . ................ Pernand-Vergelesses Pernand-Vergelesses ...................... . Pommard Pommard ................................. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet .............. . Saint-Aubin Saint-A ubin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ............ Santenay Santenay. . . . . . . . . . . .. . ........ . Savigny-lbs-Beaune Savigny-lès-Beaune ........................... Volnay Volnay ..................................... CheillyJbs-Maranges Cheilly-lès-Maranges .... . Dezize-lbs-Maranges Dezize-lès-Maranges ..........................

R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R

RR

W, R W,R

arranging various -- Method of arranging ingredients, shellfish: crayfish m buisson, Ingredients, particularly particularly shellfish' crayfish en

BUSTARD. BUSTARD. ourARDE 'OUTARDE - Genus Genus of of bird of of the family Otidiae, Olidiae, found and temperate regions of the Old World. found in in both both hot hot and temperateregionsoftheOld World. The great greal bustardis bus/ardis the the largest largest land bird bird in Europe, where where itil comes cornes in in December Decem ber and and stays stays until until March. March.1Itt is is known known for for the the delicacy of of its its flesh. flesh. The The little /iule bustardis buslard is more more highly highly prized. It 1t comes cornes to to Beauce and and Berry Berry in in April, April, but but is is non-migrant non-migrant in Spain, Spain, Italy, Ital y, Greece and and Sardinia. The The special special feather feather structure structure on on the the head head of of the the great great bustard bustard male male is is absent from from the the head head of of the the little little bustard bus tard male. male. The The principal principal method method of of cooking cooking bustard bustard is is roasting. roasting. All Ali the indicated for for the the preparation preparation of of the the domestic domestic the recipes recipes indicated goose goose and the the Nantes Nantes duckling duckling can can be be applied applied to to bustard. bustard.

BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S BROOM. BROOM. Penr-Eoux PETIT-HOUX --. Shrub with with bitter bitter roots, raots, which which is is one one of of the the five five roots roots used used for for aperitifs. aperitifs. Its Ils

R R

w,R W,R

. . R R w,R W,R W,R . W,R . w,R W,R w,R W,R . R R w,R W,R W,R . w,R w,R W,R W,R . w,R . R R w,R W,R W . w

young young shoots shoots are are edible edible and and are are prepared prepared like like asparagus. asparagus.

BUTCHER'S BlJTCHER'S SHOP. SHOP. BoucHERq BOUCHERn; -- Shop Shop for for the the retail retail sale sale of of meat meat for for human human consumption. consumption. The The meat meat trade trade has has aa long long history. history. The The Jewish Jewish High High Priest Priest in in Biblical Biblical times, times, performin! performing the the sacrificial sacrificial offering, offering, was was the the real real precursor precursor ofthe of the butcher. butcher. In ln Egypt, Egypt, aa fire tire was was lit lit in in front front of of the the altar altar where where aa sacrifice sacrifice was was to ta be be made, made, wine wine was was offered offered and and aIl god god invoked. invoked. The The throat throat of of the the animal animal was was slit, slit, the the head head severed severed and and the the carcase carcase skinned. skinned. The The head head was was taken taken to to market; market; itit was was sold sa Id to to aa Greek Greek ififone one could cou Id be be found, found, ififnot, not, the the head head was was thrown thrown into into the the river. river. The The Romans Romans made made similar similar sacrifices, sacrifices, but but created created aa special special body body of ofmen men to to carry carry out out the the actual actual butchery butcheryof the animals, animais, of the 164 164

BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S SHOP SHOP

animals(l'Encyclopidie) of animai included lhe the slaughtering of which Butcher's shop shop until untJl end ofseventeenth of seventeenth century wll içh induded s (l 'Encyclopédie) Butcher's

long, kept for for too too long, fresh or or kept not too too fresh right time, time, not it at at the the right sell it sell in summer l| days days in summer -- itit and It in win winter days in than 22 days i.e., more than ter and i.e., human for human unfit for meat became became unfit the meat that the reckoned that being reckoned being these periods after these consumption after consumption Periods.. method of of hand, aa method by hand, out by measured out meat measured The sale sale of of meat The and arguments, and continual arguments, caused continuai estimation, caused approximate estimation, approximate the which offered offered the of scales, scales, which system of replaced by by the the system was replaced was penalties ininand penalties confiscations and Fines, confiscations greatest fairness. fairness. Fines, greatest lawthe lawon the inflicted on rights were were inflicted civil rights loss of of civil volving the the loss volving that provost of to see see that of Paris Paris to the provost of the was the duty It was the dut breakers. It y of breakers. carried out. out. were carried statutes were these statutes these of the end endof until the maintained until were maintained regulations were The royal royal regulations The away in doing doing away succeeded in Napoleon succeeded monarchy. absolute monarchy absolute . Napoleon the created the and created houses, and privately owned slaughter houses, owned slaughter with privately with forced to to were forced as butchers butchers were As soon soon as public slaughter house. As slaughter house. public industry developed developed:: the industry of the branches of there, two two branches animals there, take animals take first covered covered The first retail trade, trade.The and the the retail trade and wholesale trade the wholesale the house, the slaughter slaughter house, purchase of transport toto the of livestock, livestock, transport the purchase the of consisted of room. The The second second consisted the scalding scalding room. the work work of of the and the and consumer. meat to to the the consumer. of meat carcases of retailing the the carcases retailing century, nineteenth century, the nineteenth created inin the were created markets were Cattle markets Cattle for the the Passy for and Passy Pontoise and Sceaux, Pontoise those atat Sceaux, among them them those among butchers from which which butchers up from also set set up was also fund was area. AA fund Paris area. Paris purchases, with withaa for purchases, money for necessary money the necessary could obtain obtain the could be proviso that loan be theloan that the percent interest, and andaaproviso cent interest, charge of of 55per charge of oneof retainedone Thus the butchersretained the butchers repaid within within aafortnight. fortnight. Thus repaid pressdaims claims notpress could not creditorscould privileges. Their Theircreditors theirancient ancient privileges. their the meatininthe themeat norseize seize the day, nor market clay, of,or oron, on, market on the the eve eveof, on town's thetown's safeguard the wereessential essentialtotosafeguard These conditions conditions were shop. These shop. meat supplies. supplies. meat free, becamefree, meattrade tradebecame themeat centurythe nineteenthcentury thenineteenth Duringthe During was periodduring which itit was during which transition period was aa transition but there there was but prove that thatanan francstotoprove payaafee 3,000francs feeof of3,000 necessarytoto pay necessary possessed the the onepossessed andthat thatone servedand had been beenserved aapprenticeship pprenticeship had presentaacertificate certificate meat,totopresent retailmeat, knowledge totoretail necessary knowledge necessary nottoto undertakenot andtotoundertake goodconduct andcharacter, character, and conductand of ofgood prefecture three givingthe three theprefecture withoutgiving leave the the business business without leave months' notice, months'notice. 500 wgreonly only500 therewçre centurytbere thecentury middleofofthe Towardsthe themiddle Towards laiddown downthe the regulations laid left.Police Policeregulations shopsleft. retail retailbutcher butchershops tiled, hadtotobebetiJed, theyhad shops;they running ofofshops; relatingtotothe therunning details detailsrelating couldset set positioned.No Nobutcher butchercould wellpositioned. andwell weil wellventilated ventilatedand

for the giving these these men men special special privileges to to compensate compensate for occupation was held in contempt by the higher fact that their occupation an was an classes. Under Under Nero, Nero, the the Roman Roman butcher's shop was butcher's shop classes. imposing establishment, they established established aa guild, and they imposing establishment, and which was subject to official reguJations. regulations. Butchers specialissuarii. called suarii, and selling of pigs were called ing in the buying and In France, guild had by the had been been established by France, aa butchers' butchers'guild In eighth century; apprenticeman had to serve aa three years' appreni.icecentury; aa man ship further three for aa further meat for cut and and sell sell meat dress, cut and buy, buy, dress, ship and and buy buy an an years before ter butcher and master he could become aa mas before he official diploma; both great deal money. deal of of money. privileges cost aa great both privileges The ter butchers, and master butchers, and master of of mas guild was by aa master directed by The guild was directed not became powerful, arrogating to themselves themselves not arrogating to became extremely extremely powerful, pork and only and mutton, pork veal, mutton, beef, veal, selling beef, monopoly of of selling only the the monopoly sucking-pig, fish.. and river river fish also sea sea and sucking-pig, but also

guild Arms Arms of of the the butchers' butchers' guild

Charles privileges, and and their their their privileges, revoked sorne some of of their Charles VI VI revoked power they century they the sixteenth sixteenth century power declined time, but but inin the declined for for aa time, es men, and were weresubject subjecttoto andwere of trad tradesmen, raised to the status statusof were raised to the statutes, them forbade them which forbade were ordinances ordinanceswhich which were among which statutes, among to afteraa openafter keep open authority; keep without authority; new stalls stalls without to open open new certain during orduring abstinence or meat on daysof ofabstinence on days certain time; time; exhibit exhibit meat Lent , and for the the andthat thatonly only for ten, stall out out of often onestail Lent inin more more than thanone sick ; sohcit slaughter customers; slaughter abuse customers; solicit custom custom oror abuse sick; animais cooked sellcooked authorities;sell theauthorities; informing the without informing animals without meat ; or a butcher. butcher. thatofofa butthat pursueany anyother other trade trade but meat; orpursue They animals healthyanimais from healthy meatfrom sellmeat They were were expected expected totosell which from notdied diedfrom hadnot andhad properly slaughtered slaughtered and hadbeen beenproperly which had disease andtoto wayand prepareititininaac1ean cleanway diseaseor orsuffocation, suffocation, toto prepare

165 l6s

BUTTER up business before the police commissioner of his area had up business before the police commissioner of his area had visited his premises and given his approval. Any butcher visited his premises and given his approval. Any butcher who displayed meat outside his premises was fined. A shop who displayed meat outside his premises was fined. A shop that did not display meat for three consecutive davs was that did not display meat for three consecutive days was closed for six months. closed for six months.

kitchensofoflarge largecatering catering establishments establishmentswhich whichbuy buycomcomkitchens pletecarcases carcases or orlarge largecuts cutswholesale, wholesale, orordirect directfrom fromthe the plete slaughterhou house, fortheir theirown owncooks cookstotocarve carveand prepare. andprepare. slaughter se, for Butchers'shops shopsalso also have havescales scales which which must mustbe bekept keptvery very Butchers' clean, marble marble tables tablesand andceramic ceramicplates plates totodisplay displaythe themeaL meai. clean, Modern rules rulesof ofhygiene hygienebeing protectfood beingmade madetotoprotect foodfrom from Modern dust, many many butchers' butchers' shops provided with shopsare areprovided withdisplay display dust, counters enclosed enclosed with glass,and withglass, and often often with with means meansof of counters refrigeration.Uncut Uncutcarcases carcasesare arehung hungfrom from rails rails on on hooks, hooks, refrigeration. andenclosed enclosed inin aa refrigerated refrigerated chamber chamber or or inin aa large large and refrigerator. The The walls walls and and Boors floors of of aa butcher's butcher's shop shop are are refrigerator. usually tiled, tiled, and and kept kept scrupulously scrupulously clean. clean. Employees Employeei are are usually dressed in in light-coloured light-coloureci clothes clothes and and wear wearwhite white aprons. aprons. dressed

BUTTER. BEURRE BEURRE -- Fatty Fatty substances substances extracted extracted from from the the BUTTER. milk of mammals, known of mammals, known and and used used as as food food by by man. man. The The milk

origin of goes back of butter butter goes back to to the the early early nomadic nomadic people people who who origin used the the milk milk of goats, cows, of goats, cows, ewes, ewes, mares, mares, she-asses she-asses and and used prepare it. she-camels t~ to prepare it. she-camels The Aryans Aryans brought brought butter butter to to the the inhabitants inhabitants of India, of India, The who soon soon considered considered itit aa sacred sacred food. food. who The Hebrews Hebrews used used butter butter as as aa medicine medicine as as weil well as as aa food. food. The Abraham offered offered butter, butter, aa symbolic symbolic food, food, to to three three men men who who Abraham came to to his his tent tent in in the plains of the plains of Mamre. Mamre. In In his proverbs his proverbs came Solomon says: 'Surely, the says: 'Surely, the churning churning of milk bringeth of milk bringeth forth forth Solomon butter ... . . .'. butter '. The Scythians Scythians also also had had butter, butter, and and brought brought itit to to the the The Greeks, and and its its use use spread spread throughout throughout the civilised civilised world. world. Greeks, People living living in in sorne some southern southern countries, countries, like like the the Romans, Romans, People used oil oil much much more more than than butter butter in in their their cooking. cooking. This usee! preference still persists in still persists in certain certain parts parts of of the the south south of preference of France, mainly mainly in in Provence, Provence, where where oil plays aa principal oil plays France, part in in ail all the the dishes. dishes. part

Butcher's tools ( Nicolas\ Butcher"s 100is (Nicolas)

Since 1863 the number of shops has considerably inSince 1863 the number of shops has considerably increased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but creased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but the butchers' guild no longer has the prerogatives it enjoyed the butchers' guild no longer has the prerogatives it enjoyed under the old r6gime. The. work of slaughtering animals is under the old régime. The. work of slaughtering animais is now carried out in recognised slaughter except in in aa now carried out in recognised slaughter houses, houses, except very few localities where the butcher does the slauglitering very few localities where the butcher does the slaughtering himself. The bulk of a butcher's work is the preparition oi himself. The bulk of a butcher's work is the preparation of cuts of meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and cuts of meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and dresses the joints himself. dresses the joints himself.

Butcher's cold room (/{icolas) Butcher's colù room (Nicolas)

Old making butter Oldway wayofofmaking butter

The preparatory

work is The prepara tory work iscarried carried out outon onaachopping choppingblock: bl ock : a section of a tree trunk, usually a section of a tree trunk, usually elm, elm, mounted mounted on on three three legs. The slab, also used as a bench, has a cross-grained legs. The slab, also used as a bench, has a cross-grained wooden working surface with fittings for tools, and large wooden working surface with fittings for tools, and large

Preparation Preparation of of butter butter -- In In their their emulsive emulsive state, state, the the fattv fatty globules globulesofofmilk milk are are relatively relativelystable, stable, but butwhen when the the liquid liquid isis left left to to stand, stand, they they rise rise to to the the surface surface inin the the form form of ofcrea-. cream. Cream Creamisisgenerally generallyobtained obtainedby bythe thecentrifugation centrifugationofofmilk milkinin separators. separa tors. Once Onceagitated agitated(in (inwhat whatconstitutes constitutesthe thechurning churning operation) operation) the the fatty fatty globules globules agglutinate agglutinate into into aa compaci compact mass masscalled calledbutter. butter.

drawers. The tools include choppers, saws and knives of drawers. The tools include choppers, saws and knives of various sizes; the latter are sometimes placed in a wooden various sizes; the latter are sometimes placed in a wooden case, called a boutique. These tools are often seen in the case, called a boutique, These tools are often seen in the 166 166

BUTTER BUTTER water). water). ItIt should should have have aa slightly slightly aromatic aromatic smell smell and and aa sweet, sweet, pleasant pleasant flavour. flav6ur. When When placed placed on on the the tongue tongue itit should should melt melt without without leaving leaving any any deposit. deposit. year it The The colour colom varies varies according according to to the the time time of of year it was was produced produced and and the the type type of of animal animal feeding feeding chosen chosen by by the the farmers. farmers. It It can can be be almost almost white. white. The The content content of of substances substances other other than than fat fat (milk (milk constituents constituents remaining remaining in in the the butter butter after after churning churning and and washing) washing) must must not not exceed exceed 18 18 per per cent, cent, of of which which l6 16 per per cent cent should should be be water. water. energy food Butter Butter is is aa valuable valuableenergy food (750 (750 calories calories per per 100 100 g., g., 44 oz.).It oz.). It contains contains aa large large amount amount of of Vitamin Vitamin A A (the (the vitamin vitamin (the anti-rachitic D that that promotes promotes growth) growth) and and Vitamin Vitamin D (the anti-rachitic vitamin), vitamin), but but the the quantities quantities of of these these vary vary according according to to the the quality quality of of the the butter, butter, animal animal feeding feeding methods, methods, and and the the season. season. Unadulterated, Unadulterated, itit isis the the most most digestible digestible of of the the animal animal raw. fats. fats, provided provided that that it it is is eaten eaten raw. Adulteration AduIteration of of butter butter -- Like Like many many other other quality quality foods, foods, to fraudulent butter butter used used to to lend lend itself itselfto fraudulent falsification. falsification. Now Now that that industrial indus trial manufacture manufacture (subject (subject to to strict strict controls) controls) has has insufficient is danger replaced replaced farm farrn production, production, the the only only danger is insufficient working working of of the the butter butter mass, mass, leaving leaving aa residue residue of of buttermilk butterrnilk and and water water in in excess excess of of 18 18 per per cent; cent; or, or, in in the the case case of of farm farm butters, butters, the the addition addition of of preservatives, preservatives, such such as as boric boric acid. acid. The The a temperature, high prolonged at too effects effects of of prolonged storage storage at too high a temperature, possibly possibly near near other other foodstuffs, foodstuffs, is is also also aa factor factor that that cannot cannot be be may, at ignored. ignored. Finally, Finally, cattle-food cattle-food may, at certain certain periods periods of of the the year, year, produce produce peculiar peculiar odours odours and and taste; tas te; these, these, however, however, can can be be eliminated eliminated by by industrial industrial processes. processes. The most The most frequent frequent type type of of adulteration adulteration is is that that which which gives gives greasy, rancid or poisonous rise rancid or poisonous taste, tas te, the the consequences consequences rise to to aa greasy, (more frequently) careless productiori, of careless of productiort, or or (more frequently) prolonged prolonged choosing aa can be These drawbacks drawbacks can storage. These storage. be eliminated eliminated by by choosing good brand and aa good reliable retailer reliable retailer and brand of of butter. butter. of There are are various of butter Preservation of Preservation butter -- There various methods methods of salting common being preserving two of of the butter, two preserving butter, the most most common being salting and amalgamation. amalgamation. and quantity offine into salt into of fine salt working aa quantity by working is done done by butter is Salted butter SalLed per (3 to to 55 per butters (3 demi'sel butters There are are two two types: types r demi-sel butter. There the butter. the or Demi-sel or (8 to per cent cent salt). salt\. Demi-sel l0 per to 10 butters (8 and salted salted butters cent salt) salt) and cent for cooking. cooking. most suitable suitable for are the the most salted are salted in aa amalgamation in effected by butter isis effected Amalgamated butter AmalgamaLed by amalgamation The second second heat. The processed over intense heat. over intense or processed bain-marie, or bain-marie, qualities, keeping qualities, gives aa product product that has superior superior keeping that has method gives method flavour. process to the the flavour. detrimental to is detrimental but the the pro but cess is purposes; the the cooking purposes; for cooking clarified for frequently c1arified Butter isis frequently Butter in contained in precipitating the the casein casein contained water isis evaporated, evaporated, precipitating water

Modern Modern butter bUlter factory factory (Rayor) (Rayol)

This mass in the churn chum exudes a quantity quantity of of watery watery liquid liquid called buttermilk, buttermilk, which is drawn off. The The remaining remaining solid solid is rinsed rinsed in pure water while still in in the churn, churn, then then worked worked until aa homogenous butter is obtained. obtained. fresh from The cream may be be churned fresh from the cow, cow, but but the quality and and yield of of the quality the butter are are definitely definitely improved improved by by of maturaDuring this period allowing the cream to mature. During period of maturaof under the sour under slightly som turns slightly tion the cream cream turns tion the the influence influence of of maturing farm production ferments. This This farrn lactic lactic ferments. production method of maturing manuis still observed in the industrial the cream before use is indus trial manupreis prematuration is latter case, case, maturation in the latter but, in facture of butter but, facture which ensures ensures ceded by heat treatment called pasteurisation, ceded pasteurisation, which Very high high and and conpossible microbes. of possible the destruction destruction of the microbes. Very yeasts sowing yeasts quality isis obtained subsequently sowing obtained by sistent quality sistent by subsequently in the butter. the butter. and flavouring flavouring elements in containing acidifying and containing

lightly can be be lightly food can butter, food clarified butter, using c1arified By using the butter. butter. By the and, the the butter butter overbrowning and, without overbrowning fried or saut6ed without or sautéed fried and causing spitting spitting and without causing dehydrated, without having been been dehydrated, having fat. of fat. splutterings of splutterings CLARIFICATION. butter -- See See CLARIFICATION. of butter Clarification of Clarification These must must vfc6rnux-- These neunnss VÉGÉTAUX VEGETABLE BUTTERS. BEURRES VEGET ABLE BUTTERS. labelled be labelled but should should be butter, but name of of butter, not be the name be sold sold under under the not given aa trade name. 'vegetable fat' trade name. fat'or 'vegetable or given consistency to to give aa solid semi-solid consistency possible solid or or semi-solid to give ItIt isis possi ble to of hydrogenation of the hydrogenation For example, example, the vegetable oils. oils. For certain vegetable certain produces aa as aa catalyst, catalyst, produces mousse as nickel mousse oil, using using nickel cottonseed oil, cottonseed American of American imitation of in imitation lard -- in or lard butter or kind of artificial butter of artificiaJ kind lard. lard. Fatty substance substance DE CACAO cACAo -- Fatty BEURRE DE butter. BEURRE Cocoa butter. Cocoa in the form of of sold in the forrn roasted cocoa cocoa beans. beans. ItIt isis sold from roasted obtained from obtained like pleasant taste, taste, like and pleasant sweet and with aa sweet blocks, with rectangular blocks, rectangular 30'C. between 30°e. at aa temperature temperature between melts at chocolate. ItIt melts that of of chocolate. that at aa cooling at (91"F.) and liquid by by cooling (86"F.) and and stays stays liquid 33"C. (91'F.) and 33"e. (86)F.) (73' F.). F. ). at 23' C. (73 lower temperature, solidifying at temperature, solidifying lower

packets of butter Blocks and and packels of buller Blocks (Rayot. Phol. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) (Rayol.

packed machine packed butter isis usually usually machine retail distribution. distribution, butter For retail For has to to be be regulations, itit has satisty trade trade regulations, in blocks blocks and and to to satisl'y in paper or greaseproof paper or protected from by greaseproof contamination by from contamination protected packed in in waxed waxed are often often packed and demi-sel demi-sel butters butters are Salted and tinfoil. Salted tinfoil. cardboard cartons. cartons. cardboard good butter have aa semi-soft semi-soft should have butter should butter -- AA good of butter Quality Quality of 'sweat' not toto 'sweat' and ought ought not room temperature temperature and consistency atat room consistency proportion of of (an indication high aa proportion contains too too high indication that that itit contains (an

ne.

J

brands, isis several brands, are several product, of which there there are of which This product, This and isis no water water and contains well. ItIt con very weil. and keeps keeps very sterilised and sterilised tains no

t67 167

tsUTTER BUTTER easily digestible, digestible, perhaps more so than ordinary butter. butter. Its Its taste is neutral neutral and can in no way be r,...,Mn.
pnrrrs CHOUX Little stuffed stuffed cabbage cabbage balls. balls. PETITS porJR GARNITURE Little cHoux POUR cARNrruRE

large cabbage into quarters, wash, wash, blanch blanch for for 88 to to -- Divide aalarge 10 minutes in salt water, rinse, and and drain. l0 drain.

d'hiver. d'hiver. Milan Milan cabbages cabbages have have curly curly (occasionally (occasionally crinkled) crinkled) leaves. leaves. There There are are no no less less than than twenty-five twenty-five varieties. varieties. Five Five varieties varieties of of red red cabbage cabbage are are cultivated cultivated in in France. France. These These are are common common to to all ail regions regions and and are are in in season season throughthroughout out the the year. year. The The cabbage cabbage isis aa particularly particularly interesting interesting vegetable vegetable from from aa

Remove all aIl the leaves and them by by paring the Remove and trim them ribbed the ribbed stuffing with with the the tender tender inner inner leaves leaves and stalks. Make a stuffing and an an of forcemeat. Put aa round round of equal quantity of of stuffing stuffing on on each each leaf and roll into tight balls. balls. Braise Braise in in the the usual usual way. leaf way. cabbage balls balls are are used used to to garnish gamish large large braised braised Stuffed cabbage joints. joints. The cabbage leaves leaves can be be stuffed stuffed with with all ail kinds kinds of of hashes or pur6es. purées. hashes 172 t72

CABBAGE CABBAGE

:].$! ( Robert Carrier) provengale(Robert cabbage aalalaprovençale Stuffed cabbage Stuffed Carrier)

173

CABBAGE PALM CABBAGEPALM t::iiii]:

three-quarters cooked cookedadd add33 peeled, peeled, quartered quartered tart tart apples apples three-quarters and 1I tablespoon tablespoon brown brownsugar. sugar. Finish Finish cooking cooking on onaa low low and heat, the theoverall overall time time being beingabout about 22hours. hours. heat, Redcabbage cabbage ài lala limousine. limousine. CHOU cHou ROUGE Roucn ÀALA rn LIMOUSINE ruvrousrxr - Red Shred the the cabbage put itit into cabbage and and put intoan anearthenware earthenwarecasserole. casserole. Shred Moistenwith with bouillon bouillon and and add add44 tablespoons ($cup) tablespoons (1 pork cup) pork Moisten fat, and andchopped peeled chestnuts. chopped peeled chestnuts. Season Season with with salt salt and and fat, pepper. Cook Cook with with the the lid lid on on for for about about 22 hours. hours. pepper. Red cabbage cabbage in in marinade. marinade. CHOU cuou ROUGE Roucr MARINÉ rra.qnrlri - - Shred Shred the the Red cabbage after after removing removing the the hard hard core core and and ribs. ribs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with cabbage fine salt salt and and leave leave for for 48 48 hours, hours, stirring stirring from from time time to to time. time. fine Drain the the cabbage cabbage and put itit inin an and put an earthenware earthenware bowl bowl with with Drain peppercorns, fragments fragments of of bay bay leaf, leaf, and garlic clove. and aa garlic clove. Coyer Cover peppercorns, with vinegar vinegar which which has has been been boiled boiled and and aUowed allowed to to cool. cool. with Marinate for for 24 24 to to 48 48 hours. hours. Marinate Red cabbage cabbage in in marinade marinade isis used used as as an an hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre.It Red It isis also served served with with boiled boiled beef. beef. also Stalks and and stumps stumps of of red red and green cabbage. and green cabbage. MOELLE MoELLE DE DE Stalks cHou ROUGE RoucE ET ET CHOU cHou VERT VERT -- The The core of these these vegetables core of vegetables is is CHOU usually discarded, discarded, but but itit can can be be very very tasty tasty and and can, if well can, if well usually cooked, provide provide very good dishes. very good dishes. cooked, Remove ail all the the woody woody outer outer casing. casing. Blanch Blanch whole whole if if itit isis Remove to be be served served with with the the vegetable. vegetable. If If itit isis to to be be cooked cooked sepasepato rately, cut into rounds. cut into rounds. After After blanching, blanching, these these stalks stalks and rately, stumps can prepared in can be be prepared in the the same same way as artichoke way as artichoke stalks stalks stumps or endive endive stumps. stumps. or

:ij:iiliilXi:!:ii]ti ::;]:i

Stuffed cabbage (I-ar ous se') Sluffed cabbage (Larousse)

Stuffd cabbage. cabbage. CHOU cuou VERT vERT FARCI FARCr -- Blanch Blanch aa whole whole cabcabStuffed bage in in salted salted water, put itit under water, put under the the cold cold tap, tap, drain, drain, and and bage remove the stem. stem. remove the Spread out out the the cabbage cabbage on on aa damp damp cloth. cloth. Stuff Stuff the the heart heart Spread with aa ball pork stuffing. ball of of fine fine pork stuffing. Close Close the the leaves leaves round round this, this, with and fill the outer leaves, closing them in to reform the shape and fill the outer leaves, closing them in to reform the shape of the the cabbage. cabbage. Wrap Wrap in in thin thin strips strips of of bacon bacon fat fat and and tie in the the tie in of cloth. Put Put the the cabbage cabbage in in aa braising pan lined braising pan lined with with bacon bacon cloth. rinds and slices of onion and carrot. rinds and s!ices of onion and carrot. Cover with with aa fat fat stock stock and and braise braise for for about about 1l]t hours. hours. Coyer Drain the cabbage and and remove remove the the bards. bards. Serve Serve with with aa sauce sauce Drain the cabbage made of of the the cooking cooking liquor liquor boiled boiled down down and and enriched with enriched with made little brown brown sauce. sauce. This This stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, cut cut into into thick thick aa !ittle slices, is served as a garnish for large joints. s!ices, is served as a garnish for large joints. The cabbage can be prepared in another way. Remove the The cabbage can be prepared in another way. Remove the heart, chop the tender tender leaves, leaves, mix mix with with the the stuffing stuffing and and fil! fill heart, chop the the cabbage with this mixture and braise it. the cabbage with this mixture and braise it. Stufred cabbage ài la (Nigoise cookery). la provengale provençale (Niçoise cookery). cuou CHOU Stuffed cabbage FARcr Blanch a large cabbage for 88 mindtes salted water, FARCI -- Blanch a large cabbage for minutes in in salted water, rinse in cold water, and drain. Remove the large outer leaves rinse in cold water, and drain. Remove the large outer leaves and stems. Spread Spread these and the the ribbed ribbed stems. these leaves leaves out out flat flat on on a a thin thin damp cloth stretched on on the damp cloth stretched the table table and and chop chop the the inside inside leaves. Stuff the outer leaves with the chopped-up leaves and leaves. Stuff the outer leaves with the chopped-up leaves and the following ingredients, arranged in layers: 250 g. (9 oz.) the following ingredients, arranged in layers: 250 g. (9 oz.) blanched blanched best best leaves; leaves; 2N 200 e.Q g. (7 oz.') oz.) diced diced and and browned browned lean lean pork; I medium·sized onion, pork; 1 medium-sized onion, chopped chopped and and lightly lightly fried fried in in butter; 2 large peeled, tomatoes, seeded and chopped; butter; 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped; 100 g. (4 oz., f, cup) blanched rice; 100 g. (4 oz., f cup) fresh 100 g. (4 oz.,J cup) blanched rice; 100 g. (4 oz., J. cup) fresh green peas; 750 g. (l+ lb.) sausage meat seasoned with a green peas; 750 g. (li lb.) sausage meat seasoned with a crushed garlic clove. crushed garlic clove. Fold Fold the the cabbage cabbage leaves leaves round round the the stuffing stuffing in in the the form form of of aa ball, tie up the cloth and put into a pot-au-feu prepared in the bail, tie up the cio th and put into a pot-au-feu prepared in the usual way but using mutton instead of beef. Cook slowlv for usual way but using mutton instead ofbeef. Cook slowly for about 3| hours. about 3t hours. Drain Drain the the cabbage cabbage and and pour pour a a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of the the cooking liquor over it. cooking liquor over it. This dish, which is fundamental to the cuisine nigoise, can This dish, which is fundamental to the cuisine niçoise, can be served with the soup from the pot-au-feu in which it was be served with the soup from the pot-au-feu in which it was cooked. cooked. Stufred cabbage rolls. csou vERr FARcr EN BALLoTTTNE Stuffed cabbage roUs. CHOU VERT FARCI EN BALLOTTINE -Lay out slices of larding bacon on a damp cloth and place on Lay out slices of larding bacon on a damp cloth and place on top ofthem cabbage leaves which have been blanched, rinsed top ofthem cabbage leaves whicb have been blanched, rinsed put and dried, the leaves and dried, the leaves overlapping overlapping to to form form aa rectangle. rectangle. Put rolls of stuffing roUs of stuffing in in the the centre centre of ofthe the leaves, leaves, wrap wrap them them round round the stuffing, and tie up in the cloth. Braise in the manner the stuffing, and tie up in the clotho Braise in the manner indicated above. indicated above.

pALMrsrE - Terminal CABBAGE PALM. PALM. PALMISTE bud of of several CABBAGE - Terminal bud species of palm. of palm. species pALMrsrE EN palm en (Creole cookery). Cabbage palm en daube daube (Creole cookery). PALMISTE Cabbage DAUBE -- Parboil Parboil pieces pieces of of cabbage palm palm shoots cut lengthDAUBE ways into into strips strips and and tied tied in in bundles to to keep them them together. ways Brown in in fat on aa low low heat heat for for about about 30 30 minutes. Add Add 1I Brown fat on tablespoon flour flour and and blend in, frying frying it lightly. Add tI teait lightly. tablespoon blend it it in, spoon tomato puree and and moisten spoon tomato purée moisten with concentrated chicken stock prepared advance from giblets. stock prepared in in advance from chicken giblets. Cook for several minutes, Cook for several minutes, put put in in the the oven oyen for for a a while without without allowing al!owing the the top to brown, brown, and serve serve in a little little sauce. sauce.

CABERNET CABERNET -- Variety Variety of of vine vine grown grown extensively in in the Bordeaux Bordea ùx vineyards. vineyards. There There are are t;o two species: cabernet-franc cabernet-franc and, ccabernet-sauvignon. aberne t - s auv ignon. and The The red red wines wines of of Chinon, Chinon, Bourgueil Bourgueil and and SaumurChampigny Champigny are are also also made made from from this grape. grape. A A well-known wel!-known Anjou Anjou ros6 rosé bears bears the the same same name. name.

CACHALOT CACHALOT (Sperm-whale) (Sperm-whale) - Sea mammal, mammal, the the flesh flesh of of which which is is sometimes sometimes used used as as food. food.

RED RoucES RED CABBAGE. CAB BAGE. cHoux CHOUX ROUGES --

Red cabbage i la flamande. cHou RoucE A r-a rr.c,MA.NDE Red cabbage à la Oamande. CHOU ROUGE À LA FLAMANDEWash, quarter and shred the cabbage, removing the hard Wash, quarter and shred the cabbage, removing the hard core and stem. Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle core and stem. Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with a few with a few drops drops of of vinegar. vinegar. Cook Cook slowly slowly in in butter. butter. When When

Stuffed Sluffedcabbage cabbagerolls rolls

r74 174

CAF6S CAFÉS CACHOU. CACHOU. cAcHUND6 CACHUNDÉ -- Aromatic Aromatic tablets tablets used used in in the the Far Far East, East, totowhich which stomachic stomachicproperties propertiesare areattributed. attributed. They Theyare are mainly mainly used used to to freshen freshen and and sweeten sweeten breath breath and and are are made made of of

went At At the the same same period period in in Paris Paris aa man man called called Candiol Candiol went utensils. He about about carrying carrying aa hawker's hawker's tray tray with with domestic domestic utensils. He price of also also sold sold coffee, coffee, which which could could be be taken taken home home at at the the price of Joseph, two two sorrs sous aa cup, cup, including including sugar. sugar. His His associate, associate, Joseph,

namon, namon, bole, bole, etc. etc.

in rue Saintaa Levantine opened another another in rue SaintLevantine from from Aleppo, Aleppo, opened

amber, amber, musk, musk, sandalwood, sandalwood, sweet sweet calamus, cala mus, galingale, galingale, cincin-

and Etienne, opened opened aa caf1 caféatatthe theend end of ofNotre-Dame Notre-Damebridge, bridge, and Etienne,

These caf6s Andr6-des-Arts, André-des-Arts, facing facing the the Saint-Michel Saint-Michel bridge. bridge. These cafés frewere than dirty dirty little little smoking-saloons smoking-saloons frewere really really no no more more than from the Lebanon travellers smokers, quented by confirmed quented by confirmed smokers, travellers from the Lebanon sold in these ind and by by several several Knights Knights of of Malta' Malta. The The coffee coffee sold in these were 56 shops shops was was mediocre mediocre and and badly badly served. served. By By 1754 1754 there there were 56 their caf6i cafés in in Paris; Paris; by by the the end end of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century century their quality' numbers numbers had had risen risen to to 600, 600, of of aa much mu ch higher higher quality. as meetingThe The caf6s cafés very very soon soon replaced replaced the the cabarets cabarets as meetingcafes the first was places of letters. letters. Among Among literary literary cafés the first was places for for men men of near the the the Cafi Café dt du Parnasse Parnasse at at the the end end of of the the Pont-Neuf, Pont-Neuf, near the in rue Dauphine; Samaritaine; Samaritaine; then then the the Veuve Veuve Lourent, Laurent, in rue Dauprune; goes back to the eightand and the the Cafi Café Procope Procope whose whose fame fame goes back to the eightregulars Buffon, eenth eenth century cent ury when when itit counted counted among among its its regulars Buffon, d'AlemGilbert, Marmontel, Voltaire, Voltaire, d'Holbach' d'Holbach, Diderot' Djderot, d'AlemGilbert, Marmontel, bert bert and and others. others. rue Saint-Antoine The The widow widow Fournier, Fournier, whose whose caf6 café in in rue Saint-Antoine first to think of the was was founded founded by by Baptiste Baptiste in in 1690, 1690, was was the the first to think of the newspapers' idea of providing providing her her regular regular customers customers with with newspapers. idea of and Journal des edto She Gazette de de France, France, Mercure Mercure and Journal des She subscrib subscribed to Gazette was the Savants.The Café des des Grhces, Grâces, in in rue rue de de I'Arbre-Sec, l'Arbre-Sec, was the Savants. The Cafi The Cafe first establishment in in Paris Paris to to have have public public billiards' billiards. The Café first establishment chess-players, de de la la Rigence Régence became became the the meeting-place meeting-place of of chess-players, against the and Jean-Jacques and Jean-Jacques Rousseau Rousseau tried tried his his skill skill there there against the the cafes played Revolution the During Philidor. celebrated celebrated Philidor. During the Revolution the cafés played committees of as meeting-places an important an important r6le rôle as meeting-places of of secret secret committees of as tribunes for and as Convention and of the members members of the National National Convention tribunes for orators. orators. of fame: too, have caf6s, too, The Palajs-Royal Palais-Royal cafés, The have had had their their hour hour of fame: Cafd and Café Corazza and Cafi Corazza Rotonde, Café de la la Rotonde, Foy, Café Cafi de de Foy, Cafe de Café officers on Bonapartist officers of Bonapartist were the the meeting-places Lamblin were meeting-places of on Lamblin half-pay. half-pay. Riche caf6s, Cafi Boulevard cafés, the Boulevard Empire the the Second Second Empire Under the Under Café Riche of meeting-places of the meeting-places were the Frascati, were all, Café Cafi Frascati, above ail, and, above and, journalists. When disFrascati's disWhen Frascati's and journalists. dramatists and writers, dramatists writers, In the the Latin Napolitain' In Cafd Napolitain. by Café replaced by was replaced appeared, itit was appeared, Latin at Café CafE Vachette. held court court at Mor6as held Jean Moréas Quarter, Jean Quarter, Vachette. and more more numerous and more numerous although more caf6s, although Today the the cafés, Today political and and literary same political not the the same have not ever, have luxurious than than ever, luxurious Iiterary perhaps of a few Left Bank exception perhaps with the the exception influence, with influence, of a few Left Bank

Cadenas Cadenas for for the the roYal royal cutlery cutlery

CADENAS CADENAS -- Container, Container, with with grooves, grooves, which which closed closed like Iike aa drawer. It It was was used used in the the royal royal households households for for the the same same purpurpos€ pose as as the nef, a basket basket containing royal royal cutlery, cutlery, napkins, napkins, etc. It held he Id fork, knife and spoon, and bread bread was was placed placed on on on the dish. dish. Under Louis XIV XIV it it became became a a hexagonal hexagonal tray trayon which napkin, napkin, fork, knife knife and spoon spoon were placed. placed. The The grand grand on his andthe pantler pantler had the nef nef and the cadenas cadenas conjoined conjoined on his coat-ofcoat-ofarms.

only liquid CAFES -- Establishments where, CAFÉS where, in in principle, principle, only liquid coffee. and coffee. refreshments refreshments are served, originally only wine wine and quantities to to in large coffee in first brought coffee Aga first Suleiman Aga large quantities opened aa Pascal opened called Pascal Armenian called an Annenian 1669. Later, Later, an in 1669. France in roaring and did did aa roaring fair, and Saint-Germain fair, at the the Saint-Germain shop at coffee shop coffee opened aa and opened quai de I'Ecole and de l'Ëcole fair, he went to quai trade. After the fair, at the the SaintSaintas at success as same success not have the same did not but did new new shop shop but had coffee had where coffee London' where to London, went to He then then went fair. He Germain Germain fair. Armenian' another Armenian, Pascal, another After Pascal, 1652. After known since since 1652. been been known to went to later went while later little while but aa little caf€, but opened aa café, Maliban, opened Maliban, who Gregoire who called Gregoire man called to aa man house to leaving his his house Holland, leaving Holland, the near the be near to be rue Mazarine Mazarine to to rue his establishment establishment to moved moved his rue opposite rue street, opposite in that that street, then in was then which was Comddie which Comédie Gu6n6gaud. Guénégaud.

1830(ScltaaD AAcaf6in café in 1830 (Schaaf)

175 175

CAFFEINE CAFFEINE establishments, which still serve as meeting-places for young establishments, which still serve as meeting-places for young literary and artistic movements. (See RESTAURANTS OF literary and artistic movements. (See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE DAYS.) BYGONE DAYS.) CAFFEINE. cAFErr\E Alkatoid substance contained in CAFFEINE. CAFÉINE - - Alkaloid substance contained in coffee, which acts on the nervous system. A moderate amount coffee, which acts on the nervous system. A moderate amoun t of coffee soothes, eliminates the feeling of tiredness and of coffee soothes, eliminates the feeling of tiredness and exhaustion, makes mental work easier, dispels drowsiness. exhaustion, makes mental work easier, dispels drowsiness. A bigger dose can bring on nervous excitation,trembling, trembling, A bigger dose can bring on nervous excitation, insomnia. insomnia. Coflee has a stimulating effect on the heart if taken in Coffee has a stimulating effect on the heart if taken in moderation; excessive coffee drinking causes palpitations moderation; excessive coffee d rinking causes pal pitations and irregularity of the heartbeat. and irregularity of the heartbeat. Coffee also acts as a digestive stimulant, speeding the Coffee also acts as a digestive stimulant, speeding the passage of food through the the body (and often body (and ofien causing causing passage of food through diarrhoea). It can have a diuretic effect. On the other handl diarrhoea). It can have a diuretic effect. On the other hand, cases of articular deformation, cited by Brillat-Savarin, are cases of articular deformation, cited by Brillat-Savarin, are not caused by excessive intake ofcoffee. not caused by excessive intake of coffee. (especially strong black coffee) must not be given to 99tr* (especially Coffee strong black coffee) must not be given to children, adolescents, people of nervous disposition or those children, adolescents, people ofnervous disposition or those suffering from heart conditions; nor shouid it be given to suffering from heart conditions; Dor should it be given to certain dyspeptics. certain dyspeptics. Although Voltaire, who drank six cups of coffee daily, was Although Voltaire, who drank six cups ofcoffee daily, was loud in its praise, his over-indulgence could have have bad lad aa loud in its praise, his over-indulgence could bearing on the enterocolitis from which he suffered to the bearing on the enterocolitis from which he suffered to the end of his life. end of his life. Finally, black coffee ought never to be drunk on an empty Finally, black coffee ought never to be drunk on an empty stomach and white coffee is even worse for the svstem than stomach and white coffee is even worse for the system than black. black. CAILLEBOTTE (Curds) Name given in certain regions of CAILLEBOTTE (Curds) -- Name given in certain regions of France to curdled milk, drained in a muslin bag and eaten France to curdled milk, drained in a muslin bag and eaten

CAILLIER- -Wooden Woodenvessel vesselused usedininthe MiddleAges theMiddle Agesand and CAILLIER untilthe theend ofthe thesixteenth endof sixteenth century centuryasasa adrinking drinkingcup. cup.ItItwas was until madeininthe theshape shapeofofa abowl bowlofofaverage averagesize supportedbybya a sizesupported made leg,the thewhole wholecarved carvedout pieceofofwood. outofofone onepiece wood.There Therewere were leg, alsobowls bowlsmade madeinina alarger largersize sizewhich whichserved servedasascontainers containers also forwine, wine,the thebowl-shaped bowl-shapedlids lidsbeing beingused usedasasdrinking drinkingvessels. vessels. for CAISSETTES- - Small garnishedcases Smallgarnished casesoffered offeredasashot hothorsCAISSETTES ftorsd'euvre or orasasaasmall (SeeHORS-D'ŒUVRE, smallentrée. entrie.(See HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot d'œuvre Hot hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'œuvre.) CAKE.GÂTEAU cArreu- - The Theword ghteau isissasaid wordgâteau comefrom fromthe CAKE. id totocome the gastean, WhlCh word gasteau, whichitself itselfderives derives from from the theold gastel, oldtenn word termgastel, delicatefood food that quickly deteriorates thatquickly deteriorates(gâter (gdter - - totospoil). spoil). aadelicate generic tenu The generic gdteau or term gâteau or cake cake designates designates ail The alltypes typesof of pastry and andcakes cakes inin the thestrict strictsense senseof of the theterm, term, while while the pastry the word entremets entremets or (U.S. or sweet sweet (U dessert) applies appliesmore moreespeciword .S. dessert) especially to to sweet preparations such sweet preparations such as ascrea creams, fritters, charlottes, ally ms, fritters, charlottes. tarts, flans pies, pudd flans and and pies, puddings, souffies and and all all kinds kinds of tarts, ings, soufflés of ices, ices. which belong belong to to the the do domain of the the cook cook rather rather than than that which main of that of of the confectioner. confectioner. the Cakes are are made made from from any any of of eight eight doughs doughs inin French French Cakes confectionery: ftake pastry (feuilletage), flake pastry (feuilletage), short pastry (pâte shortpastry confectionery: QtAte brisde), sweet pastry (pâte sweet pastry sucrde), brioche, brioche, savarin, saiarin, baba, brisée), baba, Qtdte sucrée), gdnoise, chou pastry. chou pastry. génoise, To these these may may be added aa large be added large number number of of mixtures mixtures of To of additional ingredients ingredients such such as as almond paste, various almond paste, various kinds additional kinds of sugar sugar icing, icing, fondant, fondant, French French pastry pastry cream (crime cream (crème of pdtissiire), frangipane cream cream and and other other creams, praline (q.v.), (q.v.), creams, praline pât issière), frangipane etc. etc. In France, France, as as weil well as as in in many many other other countries, countries, there ln there are are symbolic cakes cakes which, in in sorne some cases, cases, have have been been being symbolic being made made for centuries, centuries, and and are are eaten eaten on on certain feast feast days. days. One for One such such is the the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake, which symbolises symbolises the great feast is feast of of the Epiphany. Epiphany. the

fresh.

fresh.

CAILLETOT

Name commonly used used in in Normandy for CAILLETOT -- Name commonly Normandy for young turbot. young turbot.

Ancient gateaux or centre-pieces, after Car6me : Turkish pavilion Ruins of a rotunda Large fountain ; Ruins of a rotunda; Ancien! gâteaux or centre-pieces, after Carême: Turkish pavilion; ; Large fountain

t76 176

CAKE CAKE

(Iarozsse) Large Largecakes: cakes: Dijon; Dijon;Madasgar; Madasgar; St StJames James (Larousse)

In In France, France, from from the the very very earliest earliest times, times, aa large large number number of of provinces provinces have have produced produced pastries pastries for for which which they they are are noted. noted. Thus Thus Artois Artois had had gdteaux gâteaux razis, razis, and and Bourbonnais Bourbonnais the the ancient ancient tartes tartes de de fromage fromage broyi, broyé, de de crime crème et et de de moyeux moyeux d'oeulz. d'oeulz. Flat-cakes Flat-cakes are are still still made made in in Normandy, Normandy, Picardy, Picard y, Poitou Poitou and and in in some sorne provinces provinces of of the the south south of of France' France. They They are are called variously variously fouaces, fouaces, fouaches, fouaches, fouies fouées or or fouyasses, fouyasses, according according to to the the district. (See (See HEARTH-CAKE') HEARTH-CAKE.) Until Until the the seventeenth seventeenth century century itit was was usual usual at at Whitsuntide Whitsuntide and oublies in Paris Paris to throw down nieules nieules and oublies (wafers), (wafers), local local Parisian of the the worshippers worshippers Pari sian confections, confections, upon the the heads heads of gathered gathered under the vaulted vaulted roofs of of the the Cathedral Cathedral of of NotreNotreDame. At the same same time blazing blazing wicks were were showered showered on on the the congregation. congregation. Ahong Among the many pastries pastries which were in high high favour favour from from cities centuries in the twelfth to the fifteenth in Paris Paris and and other other cities fifteenth centuries ichaudis of which which two variants, variants, the flageols fiageols and and the the were: were; échaudés of Paris; by the people people of Paris; and, and gobets, were were especially prized by of strips of (q.v.), small tartlets covered with tartlets covered darioles (q.v.), darioles with narrow narrow strips with one filled made, one were made, darioles were of darioles pastry. Two Two kinds kinds of pastry. filled with Talemouses cream. Talemouses with frangipane cream. the other with iream cheese, the cream (cheese turnovers) were turnovers) were as talmouses (cheese which are known today as f/ot (See HORS-D'ŒUVRES, HORS-D'(EUVRES, Hot appreciated. (See much appreciated. also much also hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'œuvre.) today; made today; pastry still still made (q.v.\ is hard pastry is aa dry, dry, hard Casse-museru (q.v.) Casse-museau in aa are mentioned mentioned in gilteaux feuilletés and gâteaux choux and ratons, petits choux ratons, feuilletds are proves 1311, which which proves in 1311, of Amiens in Bishop of Robert, Bishop by Robert, charter by charter seventeenth the seventeenth before the in France before known in was known flakypastry that flaky that pastry was process of making of making the process claim, the writers daim, some writers when, sorne century, century, when, painter. the pain Gel6e, the Claude Gelée, by Claude invented by pastry was was invented flaky ter. flaky pastry into organised into pastry-cooks, organised centuries, pastry-cooks, following centuries, tn the ihe following In also but also above' but listed above, pastries listed the pastries produced not not only only the guilds, produced guilds, joyeux, brioches, bridaneaux, gdteaux joyeux, brioches, bridaneaux, gAteaux bavueuls, bavueuls, gâteaux gâteaux biscuits, matzipan biscuits, kinds, marzipan various kinds, of various pains d'épices, waffies of d ipices, waffies pains

royaleswhich tarts tarts and and flans flans garnished garnished inin various various ways;pAtes ways; pâtes royales which dough cakes, were of meringue; meringue; almond almond cakes, cakes, dough cakes, were a a kind kind of Milan, cracknels and gdteaux de Beauce; Beauce; gdteaux gâteaux de de Milan, cracknels and gâteaux de flamiches. fiamiches. (See (See FESTIVE FESTIVE COOKERY') COOKERY.) some of the CAKES CAKES AND AND SMALL SMALL CAKES CAKES -- We We list list below below sorne of the cakes. Recipes for many -of small gdteaux and known best best known gâteaux and smaU cakes. Recipes for many of in alphabetical order them them will will be be found found in in this this section section or or in alphabetical order throughout throughout the the book. book. Angel cake Alizar Alcazar,, Allumettes Allumettes,, Almond Almond cake cake,, Amandines, Amandines, Angel cake,, cake. Apple Apple cake. - -Baba, Biscuits h la Biscuits de Baba, BAton Bâton de de Jacob, Jacob, Biscuits de Bruxelles, Bruxelles, Biscuits à la Boule de Bisanits de cailler, cuiller, Biscuits de Savoie, Savoie, Bouchies Bouchées it à l'abricot, l'abricot, Boule de Briochin' neige, Brestois, Breton, neige, Brestois, Breton, Brioche, Brioche, Brioche Brioche Goubaud, Goubaud, Briochin. Conversation, Chausson aux pommes, pommes, Cornets Cornets dà la la crime, crème, Conversation, Chausson aux Croquembouche. Croquembouche. Diion, Duchesse, Dampfnudetn, Dampfnudeln, Darioles, Darioles, Dartois, Dartois, Dijon, Duchesse, Dumpling. Dumpling. Eclairs. EchaudCs. Éclairs. Échaudés, abricots, Flan aux abricots aux abricots, amandes, Flan aux amandes, Feuilleti au)( Feuilleté Flan aux Flan aux abricots cerises , Flm aux fruits , Flan meringud , aux cerises, FIan aux d l'alsacienne, I' alsacienne , Flan à Flan auxfruits, Flan meringué, aux poires, Flan pAches, Flan aux Flan mirabelles, Flan aux pêches, Flan aux aux mirabelles, Flan aux Flan poires, Flan pommes grilli, Flan aux prunes' Flan aux pommes, aux aux pommes, Flan aux pommes grillé, Flan aux prunes. Ghteat de citrouille, I'orange, Gâteau Galette àh l'orange, Gatette feuilletée, feuitletie, Galette de citrouille, Galette Ginoise au chocolat, I'abricot, Génoise Ginoise àd l'abricot, voyage, Génoise di voyage, Gdteau de Gâteau au chocolat, Goren' Gimblette, normande, d la Ginoise moka, an moka, Génoise à la normande, Gimblette, GorenGinoise au Génoise Gougire. flot, fiot, Gougère. Inngues de chat. Kouglof, Langues Koulitsche, Kouglof, Kiche, Koulitsche, Jalousie, Kiche, Jalousie, de chat. cake, Madeleines, Mal' Madeira cake, Madasgar, Madeira Macaroons, Madasgar, Macaroons, Madeleines, Malgac he, M anc hons, M andarine, M anqui, M arignan, M9s c o t 1e-' gache, Manchons, Mandarine, Manqué, Marignan, Mascotte, M erveilles, MilM eringues, Merveilles, M azarin, Meringues, M assillon, Mazarin, M assepain, Massillon, Massepain, MilRouen, Moka, de Mirliton Millasous, anais, Miltefeuilles, anais, Millefeuilles, Millasous, Mirliton de Rouen, Moka, Montmorency, Monte-Cristo, Montmorency, Moques, Monte-Cristo, Mokatine, ·Moques, Mokatine, Mousseline. Mousseline.

Buns (C/aire)

(Desmeuzes.Phol. I'arousse) Phot.Larousse) cakes(Desmeuzes. Smallcakes Small

Buns (Claire)

r77 177

CAKE CAKE Nantais, N apolitain, Nemour s, Ndr oli, Norvdgien, N ougat, Nantais, Napoli/ain, Nemours, Néroli, Norvégien, Nougat, Nouga/ine. Oublies, Pain anglais, Pain d I'anis, pain azyme, pain Oublies, Pain anglais, Pain à l'anis, Pain azyme, Pain complet, Pain de mais, Pain de Ia Mecque, palais de dames, complet, Pain de maïs, Pain de la Mecque, Palais de dames, Palmiers, Paneton, Parisien, Pastis dt Biarn. pavi au Palmiers, Paneton, Parisien, Pastis du Béarn, Pavé au chocolat, Pavd aux fruits, Pavd au moka, pavi aux noisettes, chocolat, Pavé aux fruits, Pavé au moka, Pavé aux noise lies, Pithiviers, Plum cake, Pogne de Romans, pont-neuf, poupelin, Pithiviers, P/um cake, Pogne de Romans, Pont-neuf, Poupelin, Profiteroles, Punch cake, Puits d'amour. Profiteroles, Punch cake, Puits d'amour. quar r ts, Quic he, Quille t. Quat e Quatre-quarts, Quiche, Quille/. Rabo t t e, Rame quin, Re lig ieus e, Riche lieu, Rigodon. Rabotte, Ramequin, Religieuse, Richelieu, Rigodon. Nougatine.

ils;

:::

b5;i,

GermanEaster Eastercake (Ostertorte) cake(Ostertorte) Gennan

ofsugar sugarsurrounded surrounded by by44small smallchocolate chocolate eggs, of eggs,each eachininits its nest of of butter buttercream. crearn. nest pArNDE Fruit loaf loaf or (Alsation pastry). orBireweck Bireweck (AJsation pastry). PAIN Fruit DEFRUITS FRUrrs - Ingredients. 1I kg. (2{ lb., kg. (2-!lb., 99cups) cups)sieved Ingredients. sieved Hour, flour, 25 25g.g.(1(IOZ., oz., yeast, 500 cake) yeast, (generous 1I lb.) 500 g.g. (generous 1I cake) lb.)fresh freshor pears, ordried driedpears, (9 oz.) 250 g.g. (9 fresh or oz.) fresh or dried dried apples, 250 apples,250 250 g.g.(9(9oz.) prunes, oz.) prunes, (9 oz.) g. (9 250 g. oz.\ dried dried figs, (9oz.) figs,250 250g.g.(9 peaches ,125 250 (4LOZ., oz.) peaches, 125g.g.(4! oz, (U.S. pitted) cup) stoned stoned (U.S. pitred) dates, i* cup) dates, 250 250 g.g.(9(9 OZ., oz., Itl] cups) cups) (4 OZ., seedless raisins, raisins, 100 g. (4 100 g. oz., tJ cup) seedless cup)chopped choppedcitron citroncandied candied peel, 50 (2 OZ., 50 g.g. (2 oz., t* cup) cup) chopped peel, chopped angelica, angelica, 100 l@ g.g. (4(4 OZ., oz., cup) whole whole almonds, g. (4 (4 OZ., almonds, 100 100 g. ~3 cup) oz., if,cup) cup) hazelnuts, hazelnuts, 100 100g.g. (4 OZ., oz., 1I cup) cup) shelled shelled walnuts, (4 walnuts, 50 50 g.g. (2e OZ., oz., t{ cup) cup) each each of of lemon and and orange orange rind julienne strips, rind eut lemon cut into into julienne (2 oz.) strips, 50 50 g.g. (2 oz.) star anise, pinch of anise, aa pinch star of spices, spices,and (3 tableand 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) kirsch. kirsch. spoons) Method, Cook Cook the pears, apples, the pears, Method. prunes, peaches apples, prunes, peaches and and figs figs in water, w_ater, keeping keeping them in them rather rather firm. firm. Make Make the the dough, dough, using using yeast and flour and and yeast juice in the Hour and moistening with with the the juice in which wtrlctr the ttre fruit was was cooked. cooked. Leave the fruit the dough dough to rise for to rise for 22 hours. hours. well-drained fruit to Add the weU-drained to the the risen risen dough dough and and mix mix weIl. well. Add the the raisins, raisins, almonds, hazelnuts, Add hazelnuts, walnuts, walnuts, dates, dates. citron citron candied peel, peel, angelica, angelica, orange candied orange and and lemon lemon peel, peel, anise anise and and spices. Moisten with with kirsch and blend weIl. well. Divide the paste paste into 200-g. Oivide (7-oz.) pieces, shape 200-9. (7-oz.) shape them them into into small loaves, brush with water and and bake bake in in aa slow slbw oyen oven for for lf, li hours. p.llN pound Genoa cake. PAIN DE GÊNES GBNES -- Pound 500 (lg OZ., g. (18 500 g. oz., 31 3] cups) cups) blanched almonds to aa powder and Il and add add 325 g. (12 (12 OZ., 325 g. oz.,-ll cups) sugar. Stir with a wooden spoon and and add add 55 eggs eggs one one by by one. Stir the mixture for for l0 10 minutes and (4 oz., and add add 100 g. (4 lA0 g. oz-., s_cant seant cup) cornflour, a little little powdered vanilla, 1I ta6lespoon tablespoon Curaçao and and 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., l0 10 tablespoons) melted butter, p-u1aea9 melted butter, lifting batter to aerate aerate it. Pour the the mixture into into buttered buttered lifting the the batter in aa moderate moderate oyen. cake tins tins lined Iined with with buttered buttered paper. paper. Bake Bake in cake oven. Genoa cake cake will will keep well weil for for 55 or 66 days. days. Genoa Another method method is is to pound pound 375 OZ., generous generous 1| 1~ Another 375 g. (13 oz, cupd) cups) fine fine sugar sugar in in aa mortar mortar with 6 eggs eggs and and 22 drops drops bittei bitter almond frothy, add add 65 65 [.1Ztor., g. (2~ OZ., almond essence. essence. When When the the mixture mixture isis frothy, l0 10tablespoons) tablespoons) sieved sieved flour flour and and 125 125 g. g. ($o2., (~oz., 99 tablespoons) tablespoons) Pour the the mixture mixture into into lined lined and and melted butter. butter. Blend Blend well. weil. Pour melted buttered cake cake tins tins and and bake bake in in aa moderate moderate oven. oyen. buttered It kg. kg. (3* (3-!- lb., lb., 13 13 KuJich @ussian (Russian Easter Easter cake) cake) -- Place Place l] Kulich cups) flour flour in in aa warm wann bowl bowl and and make make aa well weil in in the the centre. centre. cups) Into this this pour pour 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,l OZ., 1cake) cake) yeast yeast dissolved dissolved in in aa little little Into wann milk milk and and mixed mixed with with aa little Ettle flour flour to to make make aa leaven. leaven. wann Work the the yeast yeast mixture mixture into into the the flour, flour, cover coyer the the bowl bowl and and Work stand the the dough dough to to rise rise in in aa warm wann place place for for lf, li hours. hours. stand

Giteau SaintH onor6 ( Lar ous sel Gâteau Saint-Honoré (Larousse)

Sablis, Sacristains, Sacristains, Saint-Honoré, Saint-Honori, Saint-James, Saint-James. SaintSaintSablés, Michel, Savarin, Savarin, Savarin Savarin àd la crime, Savarin la crème, Savarin aux aux cerises, cerises, Michel, Schaleth àd lajuive, ln juive, Shortbread, Solilime, Souvarov, Spdculos, Sehaleth Shor/bread, Solilème, Souvarov, Spéculos, Strizel, St Strudel, Sultane. ru dei, Sultane. Strizel, Tarte alsacienne, alsacienne, Tarte Tarte auxfruits aux fruits àh l'allemande, I'allemande, Tarte Tarte aux aux Tarte I'anglaise, Tarte Tarte aux aux fruits, Tarte des des demoiselles fruits àd l'anglaise, demoiselles fruits, Tarte fruits Tatin, Tarte Tarte au au riz, riz, Tarte Tarte àd la la rhubarbe, rhubarbe, Tartelelles, Tartelettes, Tôt-fai/, T6t-fait, Ta/in, Trois-frires. Trois-frères. Vacherin, Victoria Victoria cake. cake. Vacherin, Almond cake cake -- See See ALMONO. ALMOND. Almond (American pastry) Angel cake (American pastry) -- Whisk Whisk 8 8 egg egg whites whites stiffty, stiffiy, Angel cake add teaspoon cream cream of of tartar tartar dissolved dissolved in in aa little little water, water. add 1I teaspoon and275 (10 OZ., oz., lf cups) sugar. sugar. and 275 g. g. (10 li cups) Fold 100 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) sifted sifted flour flour and and aa few few drops g. (a (4 OZ., Fold in in 100 vanilla or l]1t teaspoons vanilla-flavoured sugar. vanilla essence essence or teaspoons vanilla-flavoured Whisk unbuttered angel cake cike Whisk lightly, lightly, and and pour pour into into aa large, large, unbuttered pan pan with with aa centre centre tube. tube. Bake Gas Mark moderate oven oyen (160'C (160°C.,.,325oF., 325°F., Gas Mark 3) 3) for for Bake in in aa moderate 45 cake rack 45 minutes minutes to to I1 hour. hour. Invert Invert the the tin tin on on aa cake rack and and cool taking before out of of the the mould. mould. before taking the the cake cake out Apple Apple cake cake -- See See APPLE. APPLE. Christmas yule yule log. log. n0crm BÛCHE DE DE NoEL NOËL -- Symbolic Symbolic cake sold by _ Christmas French French confectioners confectioners at at Christmas Christmas time. time. It It is is made made of Genoese Genoese cake cake (see (see GENOESE) GENOESE) spread spread with with various various creams, crea ms, usually butter cream. cream. ItIt isis rolled rolled into into the the shape of ofaa log log and usually aa butter decorated decorated by by icing icing the the cake cake with with lengthwise lengthwise strips strips of of cliocochocolate butter cream cream to to represent represent the the bark bark ofthe of the log. log. late or or coffee coffee butter At another symbolic symbolic cake cake is is made made in in France. France. It At Christmas Christmas another isis shaped shaped like like aa wooden wood en shoe, shoe, made made of of nougat nougat and and decorated decora ted with withpetits petitsfozrs fours (q.v.). (q.v.). Easter Easter cakg cake, German German (Ostertorte) (Ostertorte) -- Make Make aa sponge sponge cake cake of 125 125 g.(4+ g. (4! oz., OZ., generous generous cup) cup) sifted sifted flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. dough of 99ugtr (4 (4 oz.,l OZ., t cup) cup) sugar, sugar, 55 eggs eggs (yolks (yolks and and whites whites separated) separated) and and 100 100g. g. (4 (4 oz., OZ., *1 cup) cup) butter. butter. Bake Gas Mark Mark Bakeininaamoderately moderately hot hot oven oyen (190.C., (190°C., 375.F., 375°F., Gas 5) 5) for for 40 40 to to 45 45 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn the the cake cake out out of of the the mould. mould, allow allow to to cool, cool, and and cut eut itit across across into into halves. halves. Spread Spread one one half half with with coffee-flavoured coffee-flavoured butter butter cream. cream. Place Place the the halves halves totogether ICING). gether and and ice ice the the cake cake with with Fondant Fondant icing icing (see (see ICING). Decorate Oecorate with with aa border border of of butter butter cream cream piped piped through through aa forcing-bag of forcing-bagand andwith withchocolate chocolateeggs, eggs,each eachsitting sittingon onaaneit nestof the thesame samecream. cream.InInthe thecentre centreofofthe thecake cakeplace placeaachick chick made made 178 178

CAKE CAKE It may centre centre and and stir. stiLl! maybe benecessary necessary tota add add more mOTeflour flour totomake make aa firm Form the the paste into into aa ball, bail, wrap wrap in in aa cloth c10th and and finn paste. paste. Form leave add 12 12 g.e g. (t oz.) oz.) powdered powdered yeast yeast leave to ta prove. prove. After After I1hour add (dried used without without moistening) moistening) and and (dried chemical chemical yeast yeast which which isis used knead knead vigorously. vigorously. (18 g. 4| sieved oz., cups) Another Another method method isis to to mix mix 500 500 g. (18 OZ., cups) sieved bread 500 g. g, (18 (18 oz., OZ., l]lJ cups) cups) honey, honey, leave to to stand, stand. brcad flour flour and and 500

Add Add 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 2l 2J cups) cups) half-melted half-melted butter, butter, l0 10 eggs, 250 250g.g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generouscup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar and and aa pinch pinch ofsalt. of salt. Beat the no longer longer sticky stickyand and comes cornes away away cleanly cleanly themixture mixture until untîl itit isis no

'

from from the the bowl. bowl. Gradually Gradually work work in in I1ke. kg. QIIb.,9 (2l lb., 9 cups) cups) flour, flour, beating beating the the dough dough lightly lightly until \lntil itit isis thoroughly thoroughly mixed. mixed. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., OZ., l]I! cups) cups) each each of of cleaned c1eaned sultanas, sultanas, currants currants and and raisins. raisins. Leave Leave the the dough dough to to rise fisc again again in in aa wann warm place. place. When When well weIl risen, risen, turn turn itit onto onto aa floured floured table, table, keeping aa small small piece piece to to decorate of the dough into into aa large large decorate the tbe cake. cake. Make Make the the rest rest of well-buttered baking tin. ball in alarge, a bail and and place place in Roll long, wide wide Roll out out the the reserved dough dough and cut eut itil into long, strips. strips. Twist Twist the the strips and and decorate decorate the the cake cake with with them. them. Allow ta rise rise again again for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Brush Brush with with aa Allow the the cake cake to mixture of egg egg yolk yolk and and sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle chopped chopped almonds almonds on on mixture of top, in aa hot hot oven. aven. top, and and bake bake in ItJt isis customary cuslOmary in in Russia Russia to to ice icc and and decorate decorate the the top top of of the [he cake. cake. Maids Maids of of honou. honour. DEMoIsELLES DEMOISELLES D'HoNNEURn'HONNEUR - The The recipe recipe for for these in England, was was these cakes, cakes, which which enjoyed enjoyed a great great reputation reputatÎon in for for a long long time time kept kept secret. History relates relates that Anne Anne Boleyn, then of honour honour at al the English Court, first firsl made made these then a maid of pleasing King cakes in the hope hope of ofp!easing King Henry Henry VIII Vlll who who was fond cakes in of of his his food. King King Henry, Henry, finding finding them excellent, excellent, called them 'maids of honour'. honour', which has been their name ever since. since. 'maids of The to have have been been The secret secret recipe for for the the cakes cakes was was said said to of bought bought for f,1000. flOOO. Maids of honour were were the the speciality of Richmond Rjchmond (Surrey), where a confectioner confeclioner claimed to to have the secret recipe, and to ta make make the only true maids of honour, honour, country. all parts of the country. which he sent out daily to ail of light putr pastry, with a filling tans oflight filling The cakes are little tarts and lemon. made of egg, ground almonds and paste for is LA MEcQLJE Mecca MecC1l cakes. PAINS PA1NS DE DE LA MECQUE -- The paste for these these is as Chou paste the same as poste (see CHOU). shape of in the the sh the paste Force the Force paste through a pastry-bag in ape of egg, metal baking sheet. Brush with beaten egg, little eggs onto aa me!al eggs ooto hot aven. oven. and bake in aa hot sprinkle with granulated sugar and prepared as follows: as follows: is prepared cake whîch which tS Phur cake -- English cake Phml and (18 oz., until creamy, creamy, and g. (18 2| cups) butter butter until oz., 21 500 g. Soften 500 Soften (18 oz., sugar. g. (18 oz., 2{ cups) sugar. Add 500 g. whisk until it turns white. Add or 99 one, 88 or add, one one by one. and add, minutes, and for aa few few minutes, Whisk again again for Whisk (9 oz., l| cups) g. (9 oz., I! 250 g. Add 250 all the the time. time. Add whisking ail eggs, whisking eggs, (7 oz., g. (7 (lemon and 200 g. oz., orange), 20{) and orange), chopped candied candied peel (lemon chopped (5 oz., g. (5 cup) best best oz., 1I cup) raisins, 150 g. stoned (U.S. pitted) raisins, lf cups) sloned li (5 oz" g. (5 cup) currants. currants. oz., 1I cup) and 150 150 g. sultanas and sultanas mixed with with 1ljt teatea(18 oz., sifted flour flour mixed cups) sÎfted o2.,4| Add 500 500 g. (18 4 ~ cups) Add and tI dl. dl. rind of21emons of 2 lemons aod the grated rind spoons baking powder; the spoons (3 tablespoons, rum. scant { cup) rum. tablespoons, scan! (3 cm. paper, so extends 44 cm. so Ihat that ilit extends cake-tin with greased paper, Line aa cake-tin LÎne into the the mixture into (l] inches) Pour the the mixture of the the tin. tin. Pour above the inches) above the rim of (I-!Bake in in aa fill ilit over over two-thirds. two-thirds. Bake to fiH not 10 taking care care not tin, taking tin, hour. after 1I hour. heat after reducing heat hours, reducing for J3 104 to 4 hours, moderate aven oven for moderate sponge' Savoy spnngewrth Savoy mould with charlotte mould Fill aa charlotte Punch cake cake -- Fil! PlHlcb turn the cake. cake, tum (see SPONGE Bake the CAKES). Bake SPONGE CAKES). cake mixture mixture (see cake days. for two two days. and leave leave for out, and out, thickness' of equal equal thickness, slices of horizontal sUces three horizontal cake into into thrce Cut the cake Clltthe jam. Decoratc Decorate with with apricot jam. with apricot and caver cover with in rum rum and them in soak soak them in the the oyen. oven. finish in and finish meringue and meringue (4 OZ., cup) oz., ,1* cup) 100 g.g. (4 punch cake. llil.4;ix 100 cake. Mix the punch Meringue for Meringue for the cup) scant JI cup) dl. (3(3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant finely sieved apricot jam, sieved apricot finely iam, 1-* dl. (a oz., fine sugar. cup) fine sugar. oz., i-I cup) 100 g.g. (4 rum, 1I tablespoon Curaçao, Curagao, 100 rum, whites. egg whiles. Fold in in 66 stiffiy beaten egg Fold pArN D'ÉPICE for be used used for should be Rye Rour flour should o'6plce -- Rye Spice cake. cake. PAfN not used' ltIt isis not flour can can be be used. wheat flour loaf, but ordinary wheat but ordinary spicod Joaf, cake. quality honey this cake. for this honey for necessary 10 to use use best best qua!ity necessary nearly 10 to boiling point (18oz., honey nearly cups) honey oz., I!1] cups) Heat 500 500 g.g. (18 Heat 4! cups) sieved Put 500 500 g. ((18 scum. Put and remove remove the the scum. and 18 oz, 4-!pour the honey honey into a well in the bowl, pour flour into into aa bowl, bread flour bread

and 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz', oz., It and knead knead as as described described above, a bove. adding adding 100 cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 12 12 g.Q g. (1 oz.) oz.) dried dried yeast, yeasl, used uscd as as indicated indicated above, baking powder, powder, 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., I cup) above, l|l~ teaspoons baking tableblanched, 25 g. g. (l (! oz.,ll OZ., blanched, dried and and chopped chopped almonds, almonds, 25 spoons) spoons) each each of of chopped chopped candied candied orange orange and and lemon lemon peel. peel. g. The be added addcd to ta this th is dough: d ough: l0 lOg. The following following can can also also be $ oz,') oz.) aniseed, anisced, aa pinch pinch of of cinnamon, cinnamon, aa pinch of of powdered powdered cloves, and I tablespoon and! tablespoon grated gratcd or or chopped lemon lemon or or orange orange peel. peel. Roll to the the desired desired thickness lhickness and and put put itil on on Roll out out either either dough dough to aa buttered buttered baking baking sheet, sheet, or or into lnto baking tins. tins. Bake Bake in in aa modermoderate As soon soon as as the the cake cake is Îs cooked brush brush the the surface surface ate oven. oyen. As with with milk milk sweetened swectened with wilh sugar sugar (it (it should should be be like like a a thick thick syrup) few seconds seconds in in the the oven. oyen. The The milk milk can can syrup) and and leave leave for for aa few (see be be replaced replaced by by sugar syrup, cooked cooked to to aa thread thread (see SUGAR). SUGAR). Twelfth-Night Twelftb-Night cakes. cArrnux DEs DES RoE ROIS -- The The custom custom of of baking baking Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cakes cakes is is still still observed observed and and the the celecelebration bration that that takes takes place place in in most mos! French French homes homes when when the the Twelfth-Night cake is eaten, eaten, is is a a relic relie of of the the pagan feast fcast cake is called the Basilinda. The Îs given to to the the called the The name name phoebe which whîch is bean or symbolic symbolic favour favour baked baked in the the cake, cake, is is believed to to be be aa bean or word iphibe corruption corruption of of the the word éphèbe 'a 'a son son of of the the house' house' given given by by under the who, hidden child the the Romans Romans to to the t he ch ild who, hidden under the table, table, pointed poin ted piece which which held guest chosen out the chosen to out the guest to receive receive the the piece held the the phoebe. phnebe. vigorously was vigorously ceremonial was In the seventeenth century the Jn the seventeenth the ceremonial attention Saint-Germain, but attacked by the priests anacked by the priests of Saint-Germain, but attention this to which which this to the excesses ta much earlier earlier 10 drawn much had the excesses had been been drawn quotes aa passage from from aa Pasquier quotes custom could could give rise. Pasquier custom the to the Neargorgus, which refers ta by Thomas Neargorgus, manuscript by manuscript festival: festival: lot and clect by lot elect aa king by dine Ihen, then, and to dine come IOgether together to .'Many Many come he himself. Next, he ministers for for himseJf. king chooses chooses ministers This king vote. This or vote. or celebrations days, the the celebrations for several several days, lasts for feast which which lasts opens the the feast opens purses Idt, left, and and the the empty purses are only only empty there are continuing until until there contînuing paid. come ta to be be paid. creditors come creditors follow their their example. They, haste to to follow make haste 'Their sons sons then then make 'Their with banquets either with sumptuous banquets and hold hold sumptuous king and too, eJecl elect aa king tao, learning parents' expense, thereby learning expense, thereby or at at theîr their parents' stolen money, money, or stolen time. and the the same same time. at one larceny at one and luxury and and larceny luxury head of the family, the good the head 'Finally, on of the same day, the on the the same 'Finally, means forth, according to his means master, causes causes ro to be be brought forth, master, has been guests, aa cake in which has been cake in his guesls, and the number of of his the number and He cuts cuts the the as aa token. token. He must serve serve as coin which which must hidden aa silver silver coin hidden his family are members members of of his pieces as as there there are as many many pieces cake into into as cake piece. At time, he At the the same same lime, gives each his piece. present and one his and gives each one and for the Virgin and one for the Virgin infant Jesus, Jesus, one for the the infant one for keeps back back one gives these to the the these ta he then names he then gives whose names Magi, inin whose one for the the Magi, one piece containing silver the silver containing the poor. Whosoever the piece receives the Whosoever receives poor. joy.' for joy.' shout for all the the guests shout and aU coin is recognised as king, and of the the " distribution of attending the distribution Although the ceremonial attending to what itit used used lO from what rather different different l'rom and rather now shorter shorter and cake isis now cake queenchosen at the the chosen at king or or queen that Ihe the king demands that custom still still demands be, custom be, symbolic give aadinner-party at whîch which the thesymbolic dinner-party al feastshould in tum turn give should in [east served. cake isisserved. cake In Paris Paris and and France. Jn of France. The cake varies in different regions of (q.v.)' In galette (q.v,), pastry galelle In the ile-de-France the cake is a flaky pastry yeast dough, similar to to dough, similal from yeast made from the cake cake isis made the south south the the like aacrown. crown. shaped like and shaped dough, and brioche dough, brioche (18 OZ., 4I oz., 41 500 g. (18 Place 500 cake. Place Twelfth-Night cake. BordeauxTwelfth-Night Bordeaux yeast and and oz.) yeast with 20 20g.e.G oz.) table with on the the table ringon cups) Rour flour ininaa ring cups)

179 179

CAKE RACK RACK CAKE

lj

teaspoons salt salt inin the themiddle. middle.Knead Kneadthe dough, adding thedough, adding li teaspoons wholeeggs, eggs, one grated rind one by byone, one,grated rind of of1I lemon, lemon,200 2Ng.g. 88 whole (7 oz., scant cup) sugar, and 200 g.(7 oz.,scant cup) softened (7 oz., scant cup) sugar, and 200 g. (7 oz., scant cup) softened butter. Mix Mix these theseingredients ingredients thoroughly. thoroughly. Leave Leave the thedough, dough, butter. whichshould should be limp, totorise belimp, rise ininaawarm place overnight. warm place overnight. which Next day, day, knock knock down down the thedough doughasasfor Brioche dough dough(see Next for Brioche (see DOUGH), divide parts each divide into intoequal equal parts each shaped shapedinto into aacrown, crown, DOUGH), place on on buttered paperand buttered paper andleave leaveto to rise rise inin aa warm warm cupcupplace board. Leave Leave the crowns to the crowns to cool cool and and brush with beaten brush with beaten egg. egg. board. Decorate with with slices slices of of citron citron and and crystallised crystallised sugar, sugar, and and Decorate in aa moderate bake in moderate oyen. oven. bake Another method method isis to yeastdough to make make aa yeast dough of of 250 250 g.g. Another (9 oz., o2.,2| cups) sieved sieved flour flour and and 20 20 g.e. (i yeast. Add oz.) yeast. Add G oz.) (9 2i cups) water, to to make make the dough limp, limp, and the dougb and leave leave itit to to rise rise in in aawarrn warm water, place. place. Make aa weil well in in the (2+ lb., the centre centre of of 1I kg. kg. (2i 1b.,9 cups) sieved sieved Make 9 cups) flour, and and add add 88 whole whole eggs and aa pinch pinch of eggs and of salt. salt. Make Make aa lukelukeflour, wann syrup (9 oz., syrup with with 250 g. (9 250 g. generous cup) oz., generous cup) sugar, sugar, the the warm grated rinds rinds of of 22 lemons lemons and and 22 oranges, (|-pint, 1l|oranges, aa 3-dl. 3-dl. (t-pint, grated tcup) mixture mixture of of orange-flower orange-flower water, water, water water and and rum, rum, and and stir stir cup) gently. Add Add to to the other ingredients ingredients in the other in the gradually well, mix the weil, mix gradually gently. with the the flour flour and and when when weil well blended blended add yeast dough. add the the yeast dough. with Mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Mix Place the the dough dough in in aa fioured floured bowl, bowf leaving leaving itit in in aa warm warm Place plaoe to to rise. rise. Knock Knock down down the the dough dough and and then then shape shape itit into into aa place crown on on aa floured floured table. Place the table. Place the crown crown on on aa baking baking sheet sheet crown covered with paper and with buttered buttered paper and decorate decorate the top with pieces the top with pieces covered of citron. citron. Leave Leave to to rise. rise. Brush Brush the yolk and the cake cake with with egg egg yolk and of a a (150"C., bake in in aa cool cool oyen oven (l50 300oF., Gas Mark Mark 2) 2) for for 11{t bake C., 300 F., Gas hours. hours. Limoux Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake. cake. This This cake, cake, also also in in the the shape shape of of Limoux crown, is is made made from from dough dough similar similar to to that that used used for for the the aa crown, Bordeaux Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake, cake, but but isis richly richly decorated decorated with with Bordeaux candied citron. citron. candied Wedding cake. GÂTEAU cArnlu DE DE NOCE Nocts -- In In England England the the centrecentreWedding cake. piece of of the wedding reception is the the wedding wedding cake. cake. This This piece the wedding reception is cake, made made in or 33 tiers, tiers, is is aa symbol symbol rather rather than aa delicacy; cake, in 22 or a down from from one century century to to the the next. a tradition tradition handed handed down next. The cake must as each guest is wedding guest given a slice and is given cake must be be large large as each wedding pieces are sent sent in absent relations and boxes to and pieces are in decorated decorated boxes to absent friends. friends. The (211b.,4+ kg. (2i cups) butter, 1I kg. The ingredients ingredients are: are: I1 kg. lb., 4t cups) (2* (18 oz., g. (18 ground al4| cups) oz., 4t cups) ground (2t lb., lb., 4| 4t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, 5CI 500 g. monds g. (18 3tcups) monds or or pounded pounded almonds, almonds, 500 g. (18 oz., 3t cups) chopped candied candied peel, peel, 5@ 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz .. 3l 3t cups) cu ps) each each of of stoned stoned (U.S. (U. S. pitted) lf kg. (2* pitted) raisins, raisins, sultanas sultanas and and currants, currants, It (2i lb., lb., lIIl cups) flour flour sieved sieved with with 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons baking baking powder, powder, 16 16 to to 18 whole 15 g.(:* whole eggs, eggs, according according to to size, size, 15 g. (t o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) allspice, allspice, I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t cup) cup) rum. rum. Line Line the bottom bottom and and sides sides of of three three graduated graduated round round cake tins with buttered buttered paper paper and and fill fil! with with the the mixture. mixture. Bake Bake in in a cool oven oyen (150'C., (l50 a C., 300'F., 300 a F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 2). 2). Test Test with with a a skewer after 33 hours, hours, and and then then at at half-hourly half-hourly intervals intervals until untiJ cooked. The The cake cake should should be be made made several severa! days days before before decorating decorating it, it, to to give give the the mixture mixture time time to to settle. settle. Trim Trim each each tier tier so so that that itit is is flat and round, round, then then spread spread with with apricot apricot jam jam and cover coYer flat and completely completely with with aa layer layer of of almond almond paste, paste, *l cm. cm. (* (i inch) inch) thick. thick. y'.f,tar 24 Level Levcl the the tops tops of of the the tiers tiers with with aa rolling-pin. rolling-pin. After 24 hours, hours, ice ice each each tier, tier, covering covering all al! parts parts which which will will be be visible visible when when they they are are put put on on top top of of one one another. another. Arrange Arrange the the tiers tiers on on aa low low stand. stand. Decorate Decorate the the cake cake with with motifs motifs made made by by forcing forcing Royal Royal icing icing (see (see ICING) lCING) through through aa piping-bag, piping-bag, and and place place an an ornamental omamental motif motif or or spray spray of of flowers flowers on on the the top top tier. tier.

CALABASH GOURD GOURD ororBOTTLE BOTTLEGOURD. GOURD.CALEBASSE CALABASH cALEBASsEFruitof ofthe thecalabash calabashtree treeof whichseveral ofwhich severalspecies speciesare Fruit known. areknown. Onespecies species has haslong long leaves leavesand greenshell andaahard hardgreen shellwith withacid One acid whitepulp pulpinside, inside, which which isismade madeinto intoaasyrup syrupinintropical white tropical Americaand andthe theWest WestIndies. Indies.The gourdsare Thegourds aremade America madeinto into Calabash pipes pipes (imported (imported from fromSouth South Africa), Africa), drinking Calabash drinking vesselsand andother otherarticles. articles. vessels

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Calappa Calappa

Calamary Calamary

(Squid). CALMAR CALAMARY (Squid). cALMAR -- Common Common name name for for certain certain varieties of of cephalopoda, which varieties which have have elongated elongated bodies, bodies, and and arrns or or tentacles with arrns with suckers suckers on on the the tips. tips. They They are are found found mainly in in mid-ocean depths depths or mainly or far far out out to to sea, sea, but but come come to to near the the coasts. coasts. spawn near Like cuttlefish, cuttlefish, calamary Like calamary have have aa bag bag situated situated near near the the heart which which contains contains aa dark heart dark inky inky liquid tiquid used painting used in in painting the name of sepia. under the This mollusc is considered considered aa great delicacy delicacy in tbe the MediterMediterranean ranean region. region. Calamaries in (in their in su su tinta tinta (in their ink) ink) isis aa Spanish speciali ty. speciality. Stuffd calamary (squid) (squid) àI la marseillaise. Stuffed marseillalse. CALMAR clrum FARCI rmcr ÀA LA MARSETLLATSE MARSEILLAISE -- Take 4 calamaries, calamaries, rem ove the remove the black ink bag, bag, the the cranial cranial cartilage and and the the tentacles. Wash the the body sacs and place them flat Hat on aa clotho cloth. Fry a a finely chopped onion onion in aa few few tablespoons oil, oil, add the finely chopped tentacles and 22 or 3 chopped chopped tomatoes. Season Season and and fry fry together. Soak Soak a piece of of French French bread in milk, squeeze it it out and and add add it it to to the the pan pan with 2 2 garlic garlic cloyes cloves chopped chopped with with parsley. parsley. Blend Blend well, weil, moisten moi sten with witb 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) hot water, add 2 or 3 egg yolks and and remove from the the heat. heat. Fill Fill the the calamaries calamaries three-quarters full with the the resulting resulting forcemeat, forcemeat, which which should be fairly thick. Sew them up and put them them one one by by one into a pan with some sorne oil. up separately aa finely finely chopped onion and add a bay bay leaf leaf Fry separately and aa crushed crushed clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Blend Blend in I1 tablespoon tablespoon flour and and and moisten moisten with with I1 glass glass each each of of white white wine and hot hot water. SeaSeason son with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and simmer for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Strain Strain this sauce sauce over over the the calamaries, calamaries, sprinkle with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs this and oil oil and and gently gently brown brown the the top. top. and CALAPPA (Box (Box crab). crab). cALAppE CALAPPE (coe (cOQ or DE uBn) MER) CALAPPA which has has aa certain certain similarity similarity to to the the crab. crab. which

CAXE CAKE RACK RACK or or TRAY. TRA Y. cRTLLEGRILLE - Flat Flat tray, tra y, made made from f rom wirewiremesh, mesh, on on which which cakes cakes are are put put to to cool cool when when they they are are taken taken from from the the oven. oyen.

--

Shellfish Shellfish

CALEFACTION. c,c,rfracfloN CALÉFACTION - Action of warming. warming. CALEFACTION. - Action of Phenomenon whereby whereby aa drop drop of of water water hitting hitting aa very very hot hot Phenomenon 180 180

CAMEL CAMEL surface takes takes on a a spheroid spheroid shape shape and and does does not not dissipate dissipate surfac€ immediately because because of of the the layer layer of of steam steam which which seals seals it off. immediately CALF. VEAU VEAU -- See See also also VEAL. VEAL. CALF. Calves' brains - See See OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS. \1 EA TS. Calves'brainsCalf's crow. crow. FRAISE FRAISE DE DE vEAU VEAU -- Membrane Membrane which which covers covers the the Calf's

intestines of of the the calf. calf. This This may may be be cooked cooked in in various various ways ways (see (see intestines

OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS MEATS Calf's CalFs rnesentery-) mesentery.) OFFAL However the the crow crow is is to to be be prepared, prepared, itit must must first first be be cooked However in aa flour-and-water ftour-and-water stock, stock, as for Calf's CalFs head head (see below). below). in Calf's eors. ears. oREILLEs OREILLES DE DE vEAU VEAU -- Calf's Calf's ears must must be well Calf's and blanched blanched before before use. use. (See OFFAL OFFAL or VARIVARIc1eaned and cleaned MEATS.) ETY MEATS.) Calf's feet. feet. ptnps PIEDS DE DE vEAU VEAU -- Blanch and cook the feet feet in Calf's f1our-and-water stock, stock, llke like Calfs head. head. (See (See OFFAL OFF AL or a flour-and-water VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.)

Cambaceres I 753- I E24) Cambacérès ((1753-1824)

(himself compiling compiling the Cambac6rbs Cambacérès prepared his dinners (himself the menus) with meticulous care menus) with care and good taste. tas te. In In his Mimoires Mémoires 'During the Congress of Lun6ville, Bourienne tells us: us: 'During Congress of Lunéville, the mail coaches coaches were that mail first consul, on first consul, on being being informed informed that delicacies for the table carrying aa lot of of goods, carrying goods, in particular particular delicacies gave an persons, gave an order order that of prominent persons, of that henceforward That postal nothing but but despatches. That carry nothing were to to carry services were postal services where 1 was into the salon, where came into the salon, Cambacerds came evening, Cambacérès evening, the alone first consul, who was already laughing at the al one with the fust "Well, what what can colleague. "Weil, his colleague. causd to to his embarrassment caused "I have come to you want have come to ask want at at this hour, Cambacérès Cambac6ris?" this hour, you 7" "1 you have given given the the in the the order you to make one one exception in you to friends with with post. How do you expect us us to make friends director of post. director give them You know know people if elegant ddishes? if we we can can't them elegant people 't give ishes 7 You great extent, yourself that, it isis at at one's one's table that that one extent, it that, to to aa great yourself great deal, him deal, called called him governs." The first laughed aa great first consul consul laughed governs." glutton and him on on the the shoulder shoulder and finished finished by by slapping slapping him aa glutton poor Cambacérès, and my poor Cambacerds, and "Console yourself, my and saying, saying, "Console and continue to carry will continue to carry mail coaches coaches will The mail angry. The don't be be angry. don't your Mayence p&tis, your your Strasbourg Mayence Strasbourg pâtés, trufled turkeys, your your trufHed your partridges.'" partridges."' and your hams and

head. rBrs TÊTE DE DE VEAU VEAU - Calf's head head is is blanched, Calf's head.

cooked in in a flour-and-water ftour-and-water stock stock and served served à d la vinaigrette. cooked (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) Calf's heafr. heart. coEUR COEUR DE DE vEAU VEAU - All Ali the the recipes recipes for calf's which may be cooked kidneys are suitable for calf's heart, which (See OFFAL whole, braised, pot pot roasted roasted or or roasted. roasted. (See OFFAL or whole, VARIETY MEATS.) VARTETY Calf's kidneys kidneys -- See OFFAL or VARIETY Calf's VARIETY MEATS. See OFFAL Calf's liver liverSee OFFAL OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. Calfns - See RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU - Considered Considered the most Calves' sweetbreads. RIS delicate of of the white offal meats. They can be cooked whole, sliced in médaillons, midaillons, or in various other ways. (See OFFAL VARIETY MEATS.) or VARIETY udder. TÉTINE DE vEAU VEAU - Mostly in Jewish Mostly used used in rfril{s DE Calf's udder. taking the place of cookery, taking of bacon bacon fat. After being soaked in cold water and and blanched, the udder can be braised.

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CALORIE small calorie calorie is the amount of of CALORIE-- Unit of heat. The small

heat necessary necessary to g. of The large l'C. The large raise 1I g. of water water by by 1°C. heat to raise calorie The calorie is used as aa calorie is equal to to 1000 smalJ small calories. calories. The

unit heat and and energy-producing unit in in expressing expressing the the heat energy-producing qualities of food. food. Food substances are the combination combination of results produced by the energy borrowed from solar radiations of radiations -- the source of ail which isis effected all energy On decomposition, which energy on on earth. earth. On first by digestion and they and then by the transformations transformations which they undergo lost restore lost substances restore undergo in in our our organism, organism, these these substances energy which can be released. the heat heat released. be measured by by the Experiments have coto establish the cohave enabled scientists to establish the enabled scientists efficients fats and and released by albuminoids, fats of calories calories released by albuminoids, efficients of carbohydrates. Knowledge of aa food food Knowledge of of the the composition composition of product possible to product makes its value value in in energy, energy, makes itit possible to calculate calculate its measured in calories. These and figures are are only approximate and These figures only approximate average, not be drawn from from and too be drawn average, and too rigid rigid conclusions conclusions should should not them them.. Nutritional called diets called Nutritional experts have devised devised slimming slimming diets experts have 'Iow-calorie 'low-calorie diets' of content of the calorie calorie content on the based entirely entirelv on diets' based foods. foods.

CHEESE. de) -- See See CHEESE. CAMBRAI (Boulette @oulette de)

or two two with one one or mammals with Large mammals CAMEL. cHAMEAU - Large CAMEL. CHAMEAU and the the as dromedaries dromedaries and are known known as former are The former humps. The humps. Israelites to eat to eat the Israelites forbade the Moses forbade latter as as bactriaos. bactrians. Moses latter edict, but but by this this edict, are not not bound bound by Arabs are The Arabs meat. The camel's meat. camel's young and meat isis tender. tender. and the the meat are young when they camels when they are only only eat eat camels regarded meat was was regarded camel's meat Gallien, camel's of Gallien, From the the time time of From was served served to to maintains that that itit was Aristophanes maintains favour. Aristophanes with with favour. praises it. it. and Aristotle Aristotle praises royalty, and royalty, parts most most are the the parts and the the stomach stomach are feet and The hump, hump, the the feet The milk isis excellent. excellent' Camel's miUc connoisseurs. Camel's appreciated by connoisseurs. appreciated by (Arab cooking). AU CHAMEAU cHAMEAU couscous AU cooking). COUSCOUS Camel couscotxt (Arab Carel couscous way, but substitute but substitute in the usual way, the usual couscous in - Prepare the couscous Prepare the (see COUSCOUS) COUSCOUS).. mutton (see young camel's for the the mutton meat for young camel's meat pimentc and TRANcHES aubergines TRANCHES and aubergines. with pimentos Camel Camel escalopes escdopes with iN butter SAUI6 in bUttCT ET AUBERGINES AI'BERGINES -_ Sauté POIVRONS ET AUX POIvRONS DE DE CHAMEAU CHAMEAU AUX have which have from the sirloin, which the sirloin, meat taken taken from slices of camel camel meat slices of juice, sait, pepper and and spi spices. lemon juice, salt, pepper marinated in in oil, oil, lemon been ces. been marinated Put on on each each slice slice dish. Put on aa dish. and set set them them on Drain Drain the the slices slices and them in oil. Pour over over them oil. Pour aubergines sautéed saut6ed in two rounds of of aubergines two rounds juices of added 22 sweet sweet have been been added meat to which have to which the of the the meat the juices in oil; oil; 1l|t dl. dl. cooked in and cooked peeled, cut pimentos, peeled, into strips strips and cut into pimentos, (} pipint" l} cups) cups) tomato tomato pint, j-3 cup) dl. (t wine; 33 dl. (t({ pint, nt, li cup) white white wine; parsley. chopped parsley. garlic. Sprinkle with chopped pur6e; and Sprinkle with purée; little garlic. and aa little r.l PIEDS DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU ÀA LA vinaigrette. PIEDS Camel's feet àt lala vinaigrette. Camel's feet young camel and cook cook inin camel and feet of of aa young VINAIGRETTE Soak the the feet vTNATcRETTE -- Soak (see asfor for Calf'sleet Calf's feet (see in the way as the same same way aa white white court-bouillon court-bouillon in with serve with and serve Drain, and MEATS). Drain, OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). (seeSAUCE). Vinaigrette SAUCE). Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see non -- Marinate Marinate DE CHAMEAU CHAMEAU RÔTI FILET DE Roast fillet. FILET Roast camel's camel's fiUet. juice, salt, pepper and and spices. spices.ItIt salt, pepper the lemon juice, fillet with with oil, oil, lemon the fiUet

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CAL V ADOS -- Famous apple brandy the Normandy Normandy from the Famous apple brandy from CALVADOS region name. region of of the the same same name. CAMBACÉRÈS who duc de) de) -- Cambacérès Cambac6rbs who CAMBACERDS (Jean-Jacques, lJean-Jacqueq duc was Paris in in 1824 1824 in 1753 1753 and and diéd di&J at at Paris was born born at at Montpellier Montpellier in was after the appointed by Bonaparte after the was the the second second consul by Bonaparte consul appointed coup . Marco in his his diary, diary, wrote in coup d'état d'dtat Marco de de Saint-Hilaire Saint-Hilaire wrote 'Yesterday 'Yesterday 1I had table of of honour of admitted to to the the table had the the honour of being being admitted Consul four the four out of of the and 1I must must confess confess that that out Consul Cambacérès Cambac6rds and courses least sixteen sixteen or or courses - each which consisted consisted of of atat least each of of which eighteen quarter of had no no which 1I had dishes, and and about about aa quarter of which eighteen dishes, chance apwould have have been been apchance of of tasting single one one would tasting - every every single proved proved by gastronomical memory. memory. of gastronomical Lucullus or or Apicius, Apicius, of by Lucullus Under made enormous in France France has has made enornous Under the the Republic, Republic, cuisine cuisine in steps proclaim itit to in the the worId.' world.' forward, and to be be the the best best in steps forward, and 1I proclaim

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181 l8l

CAMEMBERT CAMEMBERT can be larded with strips of larding bacon. Roast on a spit can be larded with strips of larding bacon. Roast on a spit thesame sameway wayasasfor foraabeef beeffillet. fillet. ininthe Roastcamel's camel's hump. hump.BOSSE BossrDE DECHAMEAU cHAMEAURÔTIE n6rrr- - Only Only Roast thehump hump of youngcamel ofaavery veryyoung preparedininthis camel isisprepared thisway. way. the juice, salt, Marinate with with oil, oil,lemon lemon juice, pepperand salt,pepper andspices. spices. Marinate Roast inin the thesame sameway way asasfor for roast (See roast sirIoin sirloinofofbeef. beef.(See Roast BEEF, Roast Roast sirloin.) sirloin.)Serve Servewith gravy, and with its itsown owngravy, andwaterwaterBEEF, cress. cresso paunchài lala marocaine. Camel's paunch marocaine. VENTRE vnNtnr DE nECHAMEA cHe,uEnu Camel's U ÀA LA MARocArNe Marinate Z-kg.(4t-Ib.) (4+-lb.) piece piece of ofcamel's camel's LA MAROCAINE - - Marinate aa2-kg. paunch, trimmed and tied with string, in oil, lemon juice, paunch, trimmed and tied with string, in oil, lemon juice, spices and and vegetables. vegetables. Brown Brown inin oil oil inin an an earthenware earthenware spices put 22 casserole and remove when itit isis browned brownedail all over. over. Put casserole and remove when sliced onions onions into into the the casserole casserole and and cook cook slowly slowly until until soft. soft. sliced peeled, seeded Add 44 peeled, seeded and and chopped chopped tomatoes, peeled, tomatoes, 44 peeled, Add seeded and and diced diced sweet pimentos, 44crushed sweet pimentos, crushed cloyes garlic, cloves of ofgarlic, seeded and the quartered core the quartered core of of aa root root of fennel. Season of fennel. Seasonwith with salt salt and pepper. Cook and pepper. Cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. and pour over Return the paunch the camel's camel's pa to the the casserole. casserole. Pour over Return unch to pint, scant dl. Ct(f pint, scant 22 cups) good stock. cups) good Add the stock. Add liquor the liquor itit 44 dl. from the the marinade, marinade, and garni of and aa bouquet bouquet garni parsley, thyme, of parsley, thyme, from bay and and zest zest of of orange. orange. Simmer Simmer for for 2t 2! hours. hours. Add Add 250 250 g.g. bay (9 oz., generous cup) oz., generous cup) rice rice after after removing removing the gorit. the bouquet bouquet garni. (9 Cook for for aa further further 25 25 minutes. minutes. Cook Take out out the the meat, meat, set set itit on on aa large large dish dish and and arrange arrange the the Take rice around around it. it. rice prepare with pilaf. PILAF Camel pilaf. rn,lr DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU -- Prepare with lean lean Camel camel's meat meat taken taken from from the the filIet fillet or or sirloin sirloin in in the the same same camel's way as as Mutton pilaf (see (see PILAF). Mutton pilaf PILAF). way Ragoftt of of camel camel with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. RAGOÛT nlco0r DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU Ragoût A LA re TOMATE roM,c,TE -- Prepare Prepare with with camel camel meat meat cut pieces and cut into into pieces and À juice, salt, marinated in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, pepper and salt, pepper and spices, spices, in in marinated the sa same way as as Ragoût Ragofit of (see of mutton mutton with with LOmato tomato sauce sauce (see me way the MUTTON). MUTTON). Camel's ribs ribs with with rice. rice. CÔTES cdrrs DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU AU AU RIZ Rrz -- Trim Trim Camel's the ribs and and marinate marinate them juice, salt, them in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, the camel's camel's ribs pepper and spices. spices. pepper and Saut6 in butter, lard or oil, oil, drain drain them them of of fat, fat, and garnish and garnish Sauté in butter, lard or with PILAF). Serve Serve with with aa sauce sauce made with with with Rice Rice pilaf pilaf (see (see PILAF). the stock and and aa little little tablespoons stock the juices juices to to which which a a few few tablespoons tomato been added. added. tomato sauce sauce seasoned seasoned with with garlic garlic have have been All of veal veal or AU methods methods of of preparation preparation applying applying to to ribs ribs of pork pork can can be be applied applied to to camel's camel's ribs. ribs.

Asa aslang slangexpression expressionininFrench Frenchthis thisword wordhas hastaken takenthe the As (belly). samemeaning meaningasasbedon bedon(belly). same

CANADA See SeeINTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, COOKERY. CANADA Americancookery. cookery. American CANAPES- -The primary meaning Theprimary meaningofofthis thisword wordisisa aslice CANAPÉS slice ofcrustless crustlessbread, bread,cut cutininrectangular rectangular shapes, shapes,the of thesize sizeand and thickness of ofwhich whichvaries variesdepending depending on onthe thenature natureofofininthickness gredientstotobe puton beput onthem. them. gredients Canapis,which whichare arealso alsocalled calledcroûtons, cro0tons,are Canapés, aremade madeofof toastedor friedbread orfried bread and andcan caneither eitherbe bespread spreadwith toasted withvarious various mixtures or plain,depending leftplain, orleft dependingon onthe thenature natureofofthe mixtures thedishes dishes for which whichthey theyare aretotoserve serveasasan anaccompaniment. accompaniment. for Canapis, used used totoaccompany accompany winged game,are wingedgame, Canapés, arespread spread gratinforcemeat with àdgratin orsorne someother other forcemeat. forcemeat. with forcemeat or (hors-d'cuwes) - - These Canapes (hors-d'œuvres) These canapés aremade canaptisare Canapés madefrom from crustless bread, bread, home-made home-made bread bread or or brioche crustless briochedough, dough,and and garnished with are garnished with various various mixtures. mixtures. are Recipes for for this thistype typeof ofcanapé, canapl,sorne Recipes someof ofwhich whichare arereferred referred toas as canapés canapds àd lala russe, russe, will will be befound found inin the to thesection section entitled entitled HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold Cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d euvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Canapes for for various various dishes dishes -- These These canapés Canapés canapis are arecut cut ininrecrectangles, and and browned. browned. They They are tangles, are mostly mostly described described asas crottons and and are are used used as as foundations foundations for croûtons for fried fried or grilled or grilled escalopes, noisettes, noisettes, tournedos, tournedos, kidneys, escalopes, kidneys, etc. etc.

CAMEMBERT CAMEMBERT -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CAMOMILE. CAMO MILE. cAMoMrLLr CAMOMILLE - Common Common name na me for a genus of

Canary grass

herbs whicL are herbs of of the the Compositae Compositae family, family, two two varieties varieties of ofwhich are the

Roman Roman or or noble noble camomile camomi/e and and the the German German or or common

CANARY GRASS. GRASS. ALprsrE ALPISTE -- Genus CANARY plants of Genus of of plants of the Graminaceae Graminaceae family, family, one species species of of which is is cultivated in the Canary Islands Islands for for its its seed seed which is rich rich in in edible which is edible starch

camomile. camomile.

Camomile Camomile oil, oil, obtained obtained by by gently gently simmering simmering 65 g. g. (Z+ (2t oz.) oz.) camomile camomile flower ftower heads heads in in 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) olive olive oil (cam(camphorated phorated or or not) not) for for 22 days days in in aa bain-marie, bain-marie, is is a a popular popular

and and is is used used as as food food by by the the local inhabitants. inhabitants. It It was was first introduced introduced into Spain; Spain; from from there there it was taken to the south France where it quickly quickly became became naturalised. naturalised. In In some sorne of France parts parts of France it is called canary canary grain, bird bird grain or spike spike

remedy. remedy.

CAMPANULA. CAMPANULA. clrrareNuI-n CAMPANULE -- Common Common field field plant. plant. It It has has

grain. grain. The other other species species of this this plant plant are are suitable suitable only only for for The forage. forage.

aa purplish-violet and one one variety variety isis edible. edible. The The leaves leaves purplish-violet flower ftower and

and and roots roots can can be be eaten eaten in in salad salad ifif picked picked before before the the plant plant develops develops its its stalk. stalk.

CANCALAISE (A (À LA) -- Lenren Lenten garnish garnish composed of CANCALAISE oysters and and shrimps shrimps in in Normandy Normandy sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). oysters

CAMPEACHY CAMPEACHY WOOD WOOD (Logwood). (Logwood). Bors BOIS DE DE c.cup6crfi CAMPÊCHE -Tree Tree which which grows grows in in Mexico, Mexico, chiefly chiefty around around Campeachy Campeachy Bay. Bay. Its Its wood, wood, ifif boiled, boiled, produces produces colouring colouring mattei matter -- red red on on contact contact with with acids, acids, turning turning violet violet on on contact contact with with alkali. alkali. Deprived Deprived ofofits itstoxic toxicproperties, properties, itit isis used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of ofliqueurs liqueurs and and for for improving improving the the colour colour of of wine. wine. CAN, DRlIM. BrDoN BIDON -- Originally Originally aa wooden wood en jug jug of of 55 litres litres CA N, DRUM. (4] (41 quarts, quarts, 5| 5t quarts) quarts) capacity; capacity; nowadays nowadays aa metal metal concontainer tainer for for liquids. liquids.

CANCALE -- Small Small fishing fishing port port situated situated near near the the English EngIish CANCALE Channel and and famous famous for for irc its 'blonde' 'blonde' plump plump oysters. oysters. Channel CANCOILLOTTE -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CANCOILLOTTE CANDLEMAS -- See See FESTM FESTIVE COOKERY. COOKERY. CANDLEMAS CANDY (Sugar). (Sugar). cANDr CANDI (sucne) (SUCRE) - Purified, crystallised CANDY - Purified, crystallised sugar. sugar. 182 182

CARAMEL CARAMEL cooked cooked pour pour in in a a few few tablespoons tahlespoons concentrated concentrated chicken chicken stock to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been been added. added. Serve Serve with with aa ragottt ragoûl of of mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffles saut6ed sautéed in in butter, butter, and and with with SuprAme sauce sauce (sre (see SAUCE) which which has has a a little little Madeira Madeira

CANE. CANE. cANNE CANNE -- Name Name commonly commonly given given to to different differem species species of of reeds. reeds. Sweet Sweel calamus calamlls was was used used in in the the past pasl as an infusion. inrusion. The TOOts of of giant gianl or bamboo reed reed are still used used in popular popular The roots medicine as an an infusion infusion against aga i nst lacteal lacteaJ disorders. disorders. Sugar Sugar rnedici ne as cane cane prodtces produces sugar. sugar. Cane juice. juice. vtsou VESOU -- Liquid Liquid juice juice which which comes cornes out out of or sugar sugar Cane by the the mi[. mil!. It Tt isis also also called vin vin de canne canne (cane (cane cane crushed crushed by cane wine). wine).

.

added.

CAPONATA (Sicilian (Siciliall cookery) - Peel Peel and and dice dice 4 4 auberauhergines. and when when they they have have yielded yielded their Iheir gines. Sprinkle with with salt and juice, in oil. oil. . . fry them [hem in Shred 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., {l cup) CUD) capers, capers, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., OZ., f~ cup) black hlack olives, olives, I heart heart blanched blanched celery, 4 4 desalted desalted anchovies into illtO julienne julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) strips. Fry a thinly sliced onion lightly in oil. aiL Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., lightly in and 22 dl. (* (t pint, pinL scant seant cup) tomato tomato pur6e. puree. Boil Boil *~. cup) sugar and down until itil takes after which which add add I1 dl. dl. takes on a dark colour, after (6 (6 tablespoons, scant scanl *i cup) vinegar. vinegar. Leave Leave to 10 simmer for ror a few minutes, minutes, season season generously, generously, add add some sorne chopped parsley and and mix mix with with the the aubergines aubergines and and the the other other ingredients. Decorate or spiny lobster, Jobster, tuna tuna (tunny) (tunny) Decorale the the top with slices of fish fish in in oil, oll, and poutargue poutargue (salted (sal!ed and and dried grey grey mullet mullet roes). roes). This This dish dish is is served served both hoth in in summer summer and and winter. win ter. It Il is is advisable to to prepare prepare it it well well in in advance advance to to allow allow all ail the the of the sweet-sour taste ingredients be permeated permeated by the the swect-sour taste of the Ingredients to be tomato sauce. sauce.

CANNELONI. clNunroNs CANNELONS cARNIs GARNIS - Pasta Pasta dish dish served served as as hors-d'œuvre or a small entie. en/rée. (See (Sec HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, an hors-d'euvre an Hot Hal hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'œuvre.) CANNING·· PRESERVATION OF FOOD. FOOD. CANMNG - See PRESERVATION CANON -- Old French French wine measure of of rt litre' litre. Slang Slang term CANON ror a unit of or liquid measure measure used usod by wine merchants. The for which means word word comes cornes from from canon canon which means a a glass glass in in masonic termi nology. terminology.

CHEESE. CANTAL -- See CHEESE.

CANTALOUP -- Melon, Melon, thus thus called called because originally it mainlygrownat mainly grown al Cantalupo, Cantalupo, near near Rome. Rome. (See (See MELON.)

was

cANTINE -- Camp CANTEEN. CANTIl'.'E Camp or barrack shop for for liquor liquor CANTEEN. and provisions, provisions, etc. etc. Refreshment room at al work. work. cooking The name also applies to a small box hox containing cooking liquids. carrying liquids. a vessel vessel for carryîng officers, and to a equipment for officers,

CAPSICUM CAPSiCUM - See PEPPER.

The best China. The South China. CANTON capital of Soulh besl of CAI{TON -- Former capital Cantonese. all Chinese ail Chînese cuisine is Cantonese.

CAPUA. cApouE -- Italian town situated near CAPUA. CAPOUE near Naples, once renowned for along with ror its ilS wines wines which, which, along with other Olher 'delights', of Ca Cannae. corrupted soldiers after corru pted Hannibal's HannÎ bars soldiers a ner the the battle of nnae.

Small MeditercAPEL -- Small cAPELAN, CAPEL CAPELIN or CAPLIN. CAPELAN, as whiting (q.v.). fish which is is prepared prepared as ranean fish ranean

call the CAPUCIN -- Name by CAPUCIN by which which French hunters ca)) the hare. !lare. (See HARE.) HARE.) (See

short stalk. CAPENDU red apple with aa very short CAPEI\DU -- Variety of red

glass or or flagon crystal bottle or crystal CARAFE -- Large-based Large-based glass boule or flagon carafe. carafon is used is aa small carafe. tlsed for water or wine. A A carafon

caper bush, which grows of the capu cApns -- Floral bud or CAPER. CAPER. CÂPRE Asia Minor, Turkey, Asia Algeria, Turkey, wild in south of France, Algeria, in the soulh wild as aa seasoning pickled in and used are pîckled etc. Capers Capers are in vinegar and used as etc. (nonesuch) capers are the round (llonesllch) the round The best and condiment. condiment. The and best are Bouches-du-Rh6ne. of Var Var and and Bouches-du-Rhône. ddpartements of from the from the départements capers, and English capers, the English and smaller lhan than the They are are firmer They nrmer and with pickled nasturtium nasturtium seeds. not he be confused confused wilh should not

for colouring colouring (Bunt sugar) --- Used cookery for Used in CARAMEL (Burllt in cookery stocks, jellies, brown stocks, sauces, clear sou soups, stews, gravies, sa uces, brown jellies, clear ps, stews, in pastry-making. It is also used used in etc. Il is also paslry-making. etc. Keep small bottles with longitudinally-incised corks, in small boules wilh Keep in which allow allow the the caramel caramel to he be poured drop by drop. whicn (13 oz., g. (13 (confectionery). CARAMELS oz., Mous -- 375 g. cln,utus MOUS Caramels (confectÎonery). Caramels (l|1 piots, pints, Li pints) double lf pints) cream, double cream. litre (J loaf sugar. sugar, if, litre J3 cups) loar (4 OZ., glucose, (4 OZ., g. (4 g. (4 100 g. o2.,11 cup) cup) glucose, finest butter, oz., ~I cup) finesl 100 g. butter, 100 I vanilla bean. 1 pan and glucose, and and into aa pan and vanilla vanilla into cream, glucose, Put the the sugar, sugar, cream, Put with aa wooden wooden all lhe time wilh stirring all the lime flame, stirring on aa high high tlame, boil on boil the sides sides of of the the scrape the As the to boil, boil, scrape the sugar sugar begins (0 spoon. As spoon. is hf'irl1nnlYH"l beginning with the to detach the the sugar which is basin wilh the spoon to reached the degree of has reached the degree crystallise. When the the sugar sugar has to crystallise. to pieces, in small small pieces, add the butter În as thread, thread, add the butter known as cooking known cooking is reached. reached. degree is all the until hall ball degree Cook until stirring ail the time. time. Cook slirring slightly pan from heat. Pour Pour the the sugar sugar omo onto aa slightly Remove the from heat. the pan Remove made with with oiled in aa frame frame made oiled marble slab, oiled marble slab, keeping ilit in oiled (| inch) inch) thick. thick. mm. (± to 66 mm. The sugar layer should be be 5 to rulers. The rulers. as must on account be be scraped, scraped, as no account The bottom of the on no the pan must The go grilly. gritty. Remove Remove Ihe the to. go mixture to. cause the mixture would cause this would this cold, and and completely cold, leave the caramel until until completely vanilla bean, the caramel bean, leave vanîlla into small cut into small squares. squares. eut AU CHOCOLAT cHocoLAT -Mous AU cARAMEIS MOUS caramels CARAMELS Chocolate caramels. Chocolate (7 oz.) g. (7 chocolate tha! that slab chocolate 200 g. oz.') slab Add 200 recipe. Add Follow basic basic recipe. Fo\low (6 tablespoons, scant tI in 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant melted În has been been previously melted has cup) water, water. Clip) method Basic rnethod clrf -- Basic Mous AU AU CAFÉ cARAMEIS MOUS Cofree caramels. caramels. CARAMEL'; Coffe(' (6 lablespoons, cup) scant t] cup) tablespoons, seant dl. (6 with 1I dl. as above. above. Flavour Flavour with as coffee essence. essence. triple strength strength coffee Iriple Aux AVELlNF.s AVELINES Mous AUX cARAMEIS MOUS hazelnuts. CARAMELS with hazelnuts. Caramels WÏlh Caramels in aa (3 OZ., hazelnuts in cup) blanched blanched hazelnuts 75 g. (3 o2.,3 finely 75 Pound finely -.- Pound } cup) litre moisten with with -1I litre Put into into aa bowl, bowl, moisten mortar or or by machine. Put monar cloth, through aa cloth, milk and and serain strain through (scant pint, pint, 2f cups) cups) boiling boiling milk (seant

fish which resembles for a sea name sea nsh CAPITAINE -- French na CAPITAINE me for (q.v.) and in the the same same manner. and is is cooked in carp (q.v.) castrated has been cock which which has been castra Young cock cHApoN -- Young CA PON. CHAPON led CAPON. prepared are prepared Capons are its flavour. flavour. Capons improve its and fattene CARVING. CARVING. p6coupecs DÉCOUPAGE - The The action actÎon of cutting up up meat, poultry, poultry, game, game. etc. etc. to 10 serve at table. table. In In former times, the carving of carried out of meat meat was was considered a a noble noble art, art, carried solely by high officials officiais of royal or princely households who were known as dcuyers (esquires) as écuyers (esquires) tranchants. IranchalIIs. In royal households, the écuyer icayer ftanchant Iranchalll was was usually a

nobleman nobleman and and he he always always carried carried out out his his duties duties with wÎth his sword at his side. The art of skilful carving carving was considered essential essential by our forefathers forefalhers and was was taught to well-born young men as as an indispensable part part of good good education. The last last tutor proprovided for young noblemen was a master of carving. For for a long long time in in French society society the carving carving and serving of of food was carried out by the head of the household, who regarded regarded itil as a matter of honour to carve skilfully. skilfully. The Russe, in France France of the the service service it à la la Russe, The introduction introduction in which consists consists of of presenting the diners diners with the the food already carved, carved, has has caused the decline at the French French table table of this gracious custom. The carving of meat meal is now done, done, at least in large restaurants, taurants, by by aa specialist known as the the 'earver'. 'carver' He He may may not not have have the the glamopr glamour of the the Ccuyer écuyer tranchant trQl/cham but but he he has the the statns hdtel, and must status of maitre maître dd'hôtel, must know know his his job job inside insÎde out. out. In In addition addition to lO aa complete complete knowledge knowledge of of anatomy, analomy, he he must have have great manual manual skill skill and physical physical strength, so sa as as to be he able able to to sever sever the the joints joints of the the animals animaIs he he has to to carve. He He must must also also have have an an intimate întimate knowledge knowledge of the the grain and and texture of every piece of of meat meat which which he he has has to lo carye, carve, and and he he texture of must must work work with elegance and and delicacy. delicacy. 190 190

CASKING CASKING

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game, fish, poultry, game, fish, meal. meat. carving poultry, Ways of carving Duck;5.5. Turkey;4. l. Chicken; Chicken;2. Goose;3. 1. 2. Goose; 3. Turkey; 4. Duck; 9. 8. Woodcock; Woodcock ; 9. Pigeon ; 6. 7. Partridge; Partridge; 8. Teal ; 7. 6. Teal; Pigeon; 13. Lobster; 13. ll. Salmon; Salmon;12. Turbot; 10. 10. Sole; Sole; II. Turbot; 12. Lobster; Legof lamb; 15. Shoulderoflamb; Shoulderof lamb; Hare; 14. Legoflamb; Hare; Ham 18. Ham Loinofveal; Filletofbeef; 16. Loin ofveal; 17. Fillet ofbeef; 18.

rule. ItIt to this this rule. an exception exception to mutton isis an leg of of lamb lamb or or mutton Only Only leg parallel to or at at right right to or in two ways, either either parallel two ways, can can be carved in be carved notn isis always always or not, Ham, whether whether boned boned or angles angles to the bone. bone. Ham, to the if itit isis there. there. the bone bone if vertically, towards towards the carved carved vertically, into Insert the fork into leg. Insert with the the fork the leg. chicken, begin begin with To To carve carve aa chicken, leg as aa lever lever on on the press down it, using using itit as the leg down on on it, the and press the thigh thigh and to sever sever the the sinews. sinews. along the carcase to the carcase knife slides as as the slides along the knife joint. Next, remove the wing. For For Next, remove the wing. of the cartilage of the joint. Sever the cartilage Sever the and feel feel for for the the wing and purpose, insert fork under under the the wing insert the the fork this this purpose, joint with lay the chicken carcase, lay the chicken knife. To To cut cut up up the the carcase, joint with the the knife. in the the fork high high up up in wedging the the fork Hold itit firm firm by by wedging on its back. on its back. Hold lengthwise along along the the breastbone. breastbone. breast. Divide the carcase lengthwise the carcase breast. Divide joint To joint way as as chicken. chicken. To in the same way Nantes is jointed in the same Nantes duck duck isjointed legs, as as for for the two two legs, aa Rouen by detaching detaching the Rouen duck, duck, begin begirt by off the shave off the two two and shave its back back and chicken. Lay the duck on on its chicken. Lay the duck Pressing breastbone. Pressing side of ofthe the breast the breastbone. halves on either either side halves of ofthe breast on into horizontally into fork, cut cut the the breast breast horizontally firmly with the firmly down the fork, down with last of all. removed last of ail. very wings are are removed The wings very thin thin slices. slices. The

A number of restaurant carvers won aa world-wide world-wide have won carvers have A number reputation. founded the the who founded Dugnol, who famous Joseph Joseph Dugnol, reputation. The The famous Taverne Joseph, was aa mas ter in One of of in the art of of carving. carving. One master the art his feats accomaccomone of the the feats thus describes one his contemporaries thus plished by able man: by this this most able 'It was few important for aa few was at aa dinner held by M. Paillard for guests, members of of the spellbound spellbound guests, of the Paris press. In front of Joseph dining-room of of in charge charge of of the the dining-room was in who was Dugnol, who Joseph Dugnol, this while Rouen duckling duckling while carved aa Rouen this famous establishment, carved holding prongs of fork, so so that that there of aa fork, there on the the prongs holding it up impaled on it up was nothing into very very thin duck into thin it. He He carved carved this this duck nothing to support it. fillets all perfect order, dish underunderonto the the dish fell, in in perfect order, onto all of of which feU, neath. 'with admirable admirable adds the the narrator, narrator, 'with neath. And And that,' that,' adds despatch less time than itit takes to tell.' tell.' and in in less time than takes to despatch and Another Fr6d6ric Delair, Delair, the the the celebrated celebrated Frédéric was the Another such such was ter great Frederick was also master Tour d'Argent, who was also aa mas d'Argent, who Frederick of of the the Tour in jointing and poultry, especially and carving carving poultry, especially in the complex art art of ofjointing the complex Rouen gleat speciality his speciality of of his which was was the the great Rouen duckling duckling which restaurant. restaurant. Principles general principle, principle, ail all meat meat As aa general carving -- As of carving hinciples of should grain of meat. of the the meat. vertically, across across the the grain should be carved vertically, be carved The possible. as possible. large and and as as even even as as large The slices must be slices must be as

in milk milk which which substance in CASEIN. Albumenoid substance csEwr -- Albumenoid CASEIN. CASÉINE of which which isis the the isis coagulated fermentation of rennet, the the fermentation coagulated by by rennet, origin cheeses. all cheeses. origin of of ail varieties of of these these CASHEW. There are are different different varieties AcAJou -- There CASHEW. ACAJOU pear cashew culticashew isis cul trees. tias pear known as The type commonly known type commonly trees. The cashew' so-called cashewvated fruit, the theso-calIed Its fruit, regions. Its vated in in the the tropical tropical regions. nut with with white nut tains an nut, an edible edible white contains and con kidney-shaped and nut, isis kidney-shaped called the the part around nut isiscalled aa sweet around this this nut fleshy part The fleshy flavour. The sweet flavour. of whole of cashew-pear, raw throughout the whole throughout the eaten raw which isis eaten cashew-pear, which hasaa countries. ItIt has South European countries. some European and inin sorne America and South America can be be pleasant, withsugar, sugar,itit can Mixed with pleasant, slightly taste. Mixed slightly tart tart taste. refreshing made well asas aa refreshing preserves, as as well made into into excellent excellent preserves, beverage. beverage. produces aakind wine Fermented, kind of ofwine fruit produces cashew-nut fruit the cashew-nut Fermented, the which or known as asanacard anacardor popular in vinegar known which isispopular in Brazil, Brazil, and andaavinegar cashew-nut vinegar. cashew-nut vinegar.

Poultry Poultry shears shears (Cou/eU. (Coutell, André. Phot. Larousse) LaroussQ Andrl. Phot.

CASKING. liquidinto intoaacask. cask. Pouringliquid ENToNNER- - Pouring CASKING. ENTONNER 191 l9l

CASSATA Method of of preparatroz. preparation. 'Wash 'Wash I1 kg. kg. (2* (2* lb., lb., 4| 4t cups) lukewarm water several times and and put it in Carolina rice in lukewarm a large casserole. Cover Coyer with cold co Id water, bring to the boil, allow to boil for a few seconds, and drain. drain. 'Then 'Then cover coYer the the rice with good beef beef stock to about double double its its volume, volume, and and add add some sorne fat-skimmings fat-skimmings from a a chicken chic ken broth. 'Bring to the boil and then draw off the heat, in order order to rernove re)llove more easily easily the the small small amount of scum that will

CASSATA. cASsArE CASSATE - The cassata is an ice ice cream cream block or mould mould consisting consisting of two two differently flavoured fiavoured ice ice creams creams with a a filling of of Chantilly cream cream and and crystallised crystallised fruits fruits (previously soaked in in brandy brandy or or liqueur). liqueur). It It varies varies greatly gteatly in (previously soaked quality and delicacy. delicacy. quality and Plant native native to to the the West West Indies, -- Plant Equatorial Equatorial America, and and Florida, U.S.A. The root, which which

CASSAVA. CASSA VA. MANroc MANIOC

is is a fleshy fleshy tuber, tuber, contains contains edible starch. The sap, containing containing

hydrocyanic hydrocyanic acid, acid, is is poisonous. poisonous. The poison, however, can be be eliminated e1iminated by by fermentation fermentation and cooking. Some Sorne varieties varieties are sweet and do not oot contain poison; they can be be roasted on embers embers and eaten. eaten.

appear. appear.

'Simmerfor about I1 hour, and stir stir so that that the the grains grains burst burst for about 'Simmer Let itit simmer simmer for for another another 20 20 to 25 25 minutes, minutes, and and stir stir it evenly. Let again. When you find find itit is soft soft and and easy easy to crush between between the the again. fingers, take it off the heat. If still hard, add a little more and leave to cook until perfectly perfectly done. Stir it for aa stock and few minutes. minutes. few 'When the the rice rice is is cool, cool, work it well well for a a time time with with a wooden spoon so so that every grain is crushed. It must must be be wooden firm though though malleable. malleable. firm 'Pour out out the the rice rice into into a baking baking tin and and form it into a casserole-shape 12 12 cm. cm. (4 (4 to to 55 inches) inches) high, making ma king itit smooth smooth cassprole-shape with the the fingers. fiogers. To decorate decorate it, use use the the point point of of a knife and and with of carrot to to emphasise emphasise the the shape shape of the casserole. casserole. slices of 'Cover 'Coyer the the rice rice with with clarified c1arified butter, butter, and put put in a a hot oyen for for about about 1t hours. hours. The colour col our should should be be a vivid vivid oven yellow. yellow. When When it is is cooked, cooked, remove rem ove the the cover coyer which which you outlined when forming forming the the casserole, casserole, taking taking care care to to remove rem ove outlined ail the the rice rice inside inside which does not not adhere adhere to to the the crust. crust, which which all should be be quite quite thin. thin. should 'Mix 1 tablespoon tablespoon rice rice from from the the interior interior with witb a a little little 'Mix béchamel sauce sauce (if (if the the filling filling is is to to use use this this sauce), or or Spanish Spanish bicharnel (if the the casserole casserole is is to to be be filld filled with with a ragottt ragoût containing containing sauce (rf sauce this), or or any any other other sauce, sauce, and and use use to to garnish garnish the the crust which which this), is filled filled with with whatever whatever preparation preparation is is indicated. indicated. Before Before is serving, lightly lightly glaze glaze the the projections projections of the the casserole.' casserole.' serving, (Car6me, Le Phtissier Pâtissier royal.) royal.) (Carême, Le Small casseroles casseroles of of rie riee (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). cAssERoLErrEs CASSEROLETTES Small RIZ - 'These 'These are are made made in in the the same same way way as as casserole casserole of of DE RIz DE rice. ri ce. Place Place them them in in aahot hot oven oyen on on aa metal metal sheet sheet 77 cm. cm. (3 (3 inches) inches) apart. Take Take them them out out when when they they are are all ail aa good good golden golden colour. colour. apart. 'To 'To serve, serve, fill fill them them with with the the appropriate appropriate ragoirt.' ragoût.'

In In South America, America, cassava is is used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of tapioca. tapioca. The The roots roots are are grated, grated, left to ferment ferment and and then then pressed. pressed. The residue, residue, baked baked into into aa flat fiat cake and powdered, powdered, forms forms afarinha afarinha (Portuguese (Portuguese for for meal). meal). The The starch starch of of cassava, cassava, dried dried quickly quickly by by heat heat when when in in a moist moist condition, agglomeragglomerates ates into into small small masses masses known known as tapioca. tapioca. In In Florida, Florida, cassava cassava is is used used as as food food for man man and beast, beast, and and is is used used to to make make starch and and glucose. glucose. CASSE MUSEAU (Jawbreaker) CASSE-MUSEAU (Jawbreaker) -- Very Very hard hard cake, much much in in vogue vogue in in former former times, times, but but hardly hardly ever ever made made today. today. Here Here is is aa recipe recipe for for this this cake, cake, which which dates dates from from 1730: 1730: 'Take 'Take some sorne cream cream cheese, chee se, 4 4 eggs, eggs, 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., *t cup) cup) butter, butter, juice juice of of It lemon, lemon, 300 300 g. g. (ll (11 o2.,2f, oz., 2i cups) cups) flour flour and and a pinch of salt. salt. Mix Mix these these ingredients ingredients into into a soft paste paste and and pincb of

l]

leave leave for for aa few few hours. hours. 'Make 'Make the the casse-museaux casse-museaux in in the the form form of of very very small small buns. buns. Bake Bake for for 15 15 minutes minutes at at aa low low temperature. temperature. Split them them open open

I

and and put put them them back back in in the the oven oyen to to finish finish baking.' baking.'

CASSEROLE CASSEROLE -- Cooking Cooking utensil utensil made made in in copper, copper, alualuminium, stainless stainless steel, steel, nickel, nickel, or or other other metals; metals; and and also also in in minium, terracotta, terracotta, fireproof fireproof porcelain, porcelain, tempered tempered glass, glass, and and enamenamelled elled cast-iron, cast-iron. Many Many are are decorative decorative enough enough to to use use as as serving serving dishes. dishes. Casseroles Casseroles are are usually usually made made in in aa rounded rounded form, form, with with one one

-

or or two two handles. handles. When When deep-sided, deep-sided, as as is is most most common common in in U.S.A., U.S.A., they they are are used used in in the the oven; oYen; when when shallow-sided, shallow-sided, they they are are normally normally called called sautoirs, sautoirs, sauteuses, sauteuses, plats plats dà sauter sauter (saut6 (sauté pan pan or or frying frying pan). pan).

CASSIA. cAssE CASSE -- Pod Pod of of aa leguminous leguminous plant plant divided divided into into CASSIA. compartments, each each enclosing enc10sing a a fairly fairly large large seed, seed, sursurcompartments, rounded by by aa brownish brownish pulp, pulp, which which is is sweet, sweet, slightly slightly acid, acid, rounded that of of the the prune. prune. with aa flavour flavour resembling resembling that with This pulp pulp has has laxative laxative properties. properties. When When sieved sieved itit forms forms This the casse casse mondCe mondée of of the the past. past. the

CASSEROLE -- In In French French cooking cooking the the term term casserole casserole also also CASSEROLE denotes denotes a a preparation preparation generally generally made made with with rice, rice, which, which, after after cooking, cooking, is is fashioned fashionoo in in the the shape shape of of aa casserole, casserole, or or aa timbale. timbale. Casseroles Casseroles are are also also made made with with a a preparation preparation of of duchess duchess potatoes. potatoes. In In U.S.A. U.S.A. aa casserole casserole isis aa dish dish made made of of two two or or more more parts, parts, the basis basis of of which which can can be, be, besides besides rice, ri ce, any any pasta pasta (macironi, (macaroni, the spaghetti, spaghetti, etc.) etc.) with with meat meat or or fish fish plus plus aa sauce sauce or or gravy, gravy, and and vegetables. vegetables. This This one-dish one-dish meal meal can can be be prepared prepared in in advance advance and and served served in in aa decorative decorative casserole. casserole. Fi[ings Fillings for for rice rice casseroles. casseroles. cARNrruREs GARNITURES pouR POUR cAssERoLES CASSEROLES AU AU Rrz RIZ - All All the the fillings fillings indicated indicated elsewhere elsewhere for for timbales, timbales, small small pbtty patty shells shells or or vol-au-vent vol-au-vent can can be be used used for for this this entrie. entrée. Casseroles Casseroles can can also also be be filled filled with with various various minced minced meats meats

CASSIS -- Picturesque Picturesque fishing fishing port port and and commune commune of of CASSIS Bouches-du-Rhône, which which has has given given its its name name to to highly highly Bouchesdu-Rh6ne, esteemed red, red, white white and and ros6 rosé wines. wines. (See (See PROVENCE.) PROVENCE.) esteemed

-

(poultry, (poultry, game, game, etc.),fricassies etc.),fricassées of of fowl fowl with with trufres, truffies, various various preparations preparations of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffied trufHed foie foie gras gras esand with with all ail kinds kinds of of ragofrts ragoûts and and salpicons. salpicons. calopes, and calopes,

i

Rice Rice casserole casserole à I'ancienne l'ancienne (CarGme's (Carême's recipe). recipe). cAssERoLE CASSEROLE AU AU RIz RIZ AÀ t'aNcrENxn L'ANCIENNE -'The - 'The rice rice casserole casserole isis as as elegant elegant as as itit isis

rich; rich; its its shape shape and and appetising appetising appearance appearance give give itit aa distinct distinct character; character; itit isis certainly certainly the the most most arresting arresting entrie entrée cooked cooked in in the oven. oyen. the 'For 'For aa dinner dinner which which includes includes eight eight entries, entrées, one one prefers prefersto to serve aa handsome handsome casserole casserole of of rice ri ce rather rather than than aa hot bot pdti pâté serve or or vol-au-venl, vol-au-vent, and and such such aa preference preference isis right right for for the the casserole casserole isis the the most most attractive attractive of of the the coloured coloured enties. entrées.

Manufactureofofcassis, cassis, Dijon Dijon(French (French Government Governmenl Tourist Tourisl Ofrce) Office) Manufacture

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CASSOULET CASSOULET seven must be done done six six times. Serve Serve after after breaking breaking the the crust crust seven times. A Languedoc this this is is called called a a haricot haricot A royal royal feast; feast; in in Languedoc cream or or cassoulet.' cassoulet.' comique Anatole France loved loved the the cassoulet.ln cassoulet. In Histoire Histoire comique he wrote: wrote: Vavin, in the rue Vavin, 'I'1 am going going to lead lead you you to to aa little little tavern tavern in the rue but a stupendous one dish, dish, but only makes chez Climence, Clémence, who only makes one a stupendous legs of contains of which con de Castelnaudary, one: le one: le cassoulet de Castelnaudary, which tains legs (preserved goose), goose), haricot confit confit d'oie d'oie (preserved haricot beans beans previously previously good it To he it must must be good sausages. blanched, pork pork fat, fat, and little little sa usages. To cdslong time. Cl6mence's castime. Clémence's slowly for have have cooked very very slowly for aa long years. She replenishes She replenishes for twenty twenty years. soulet has been cooking for soulet has pork fat, fat, goose, sometimes with pork sometimes with with goose, sometimes with the the pot pot sometimes is haricots, but but itit is or some some haricots, in aa sausage sausage or sometimes she she puts in sometimes and this remains, and this The basis cassoulet. The basis remains, always same cassoulet. always the the same one gives it it aa savour, savour, which which one and precious substance gives ancient and in the masters, in the old Venetian masters, of the the old finds in in the the paintings finds paintings of you to wish you to taste taste Come, 1I wish women. Come, amber flesh tints of their women. Cl6mence's cassoulet.' Clémence's of Castelnaudary, Castelnaudary, ccssoulets; that of There are three kinds of cassoulets; There and of Toulouse. Carcassonne, and of Carcassonne, differences: following ditferences: have the the following should have The three three types types should The pork, ham, prepared with ham, with fresh fresh pork, that of of Castelnaudary isis prepared that ofCarcassonne ofpork, pork, and fresh bacon skins; that of Carcassonne knuckle of mutton, leg of of mutton, shortened leg of aa shortened addition to to the above of the addition with the has added added breast breast in season; ofToulouse season; that of and partridges in Toulouse has confit confit d'oie d oie or or confit mutton and and confit Toulouse sausage, sausage, mutton of pork, Toulouse de canard. de made is made cassouler is way in in which which the the cassoulet In Languedoc the the way ln it. Some cook the the Some cook is preparing it. whoever is to whoever according to varies according varies together, sausages and sa pork, mutton, skins and mutton, bacon bacon skins usages together, haricots, pork, in the terrine, layers in the terrine, in alterna alternate and then arrange these these in then arrange and te layers bread' of breadsprinkling of with aa thick thick sprinkling surface with covering the the surface covering gently for for to cook cook gently oven to and take take itit to to the the baker's oyen crumbs, and crumbs, hours. some hours. some haricot white haricot Simmer white de Castelnaudary Castelnaudary 1 - Simmer Cassoulet de Cassoulet

CASSOLETTE CASSOLETTE -- Small SmaJl dish dish in fireproof fireproof porcelain, porcelain, metal metal or or fireproof fireproof glass, used used for presenting presenting hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, hot hot or cold, cold, little little entrdes, entrées, and and also also some some desserts. desserts. Duchess potatoes, deep fried, fried, hollowed hollowed out and and stuffed stutfed Duchess potatoes, with with with various various fillings, are are also also called cassolettes. Filled with salpicons salpicons or ragofits ragoûts mixed mixed with with brown or white sauce, they be served served as as hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or entries. entrées. can be as sweets sweets are are filled filled with creams, creams, various various Cassolettes served as Cassolettes sweetened pastes, or fruits fruits poached poached in syrup. pas tes, or CASSONADE -- French French term for semirefined sugar. sugar. The CASSONADE yellow yellow cane cassonade cassonade has has a a slight flavour fiavour of of rum rum and and is used used in pdtisserie pâtisserie for this this reason. reason. The beet beet cassonade cassonade has rather rather an unpleasant unpleasant taste.

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originates in CASSOULET - Haricot Haricot bean bean stew stew which which originates CASSOLJLET with and mutton, or with Languedoc. It is prepared with pork and goose dish which used goose or duck, duck, in in an an earthenware dish used to to be known as the cassolle d'Issel, from whence whence derives iits ts name. known Franc-Nohain, humorous poet, sang the praises of Languedoc cassoulet in in his his Nouvelle cuisiniire cuisinière bourgeoise. He verse for cassoulef, gives a recipe in verse cassoulet, the the substance of even gives is here: here: which is one, aa leg of see two casseroles. In one, 'On aa moderate fire 1I see (preserved goose goose or duck) duck) as de canard canard (preserved confit d'oie or confit de and loin of mutton, are ribs of pork and weil as little sausages, well sausages, ribs and 2 not forget flavouring, 2 tomatoes and forget the flavouring, browning. Do not white Soissons haricots Meanwhile the onions cut in four. four. Meanwhile the white Let the gently in the cooking are in the utensil. Let other utensil. the other are cooking gently and meat arrange the beans and proceed for 2 hours, and proceed and then arrange in the same earthenware vessel, in such a way that the goose or duck, mutton and distributed between layers of and pork are distributed in the oven. cassoulet in the oyen. haricot beans. beans. After which put the which put the cassoulet haricot golden cru forms, thick thick crust Then on st forms, the dish aa golden on the surface of the the surface the incorporated with the and because it must he be incorporated it, because fat. Break it, and fat. wait until until oven, wait in the the oyen, rest Put itit back back in the ingredients. Put rest of the and this this another crust forms, again must he be broken: broken: and forms, which again

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(Rober tCarrier) Cassoulet Cassoulct(Robert Carrier)

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CASTAGNACI CASTAGNA CI beans and and bacon bacon skins glazed earthenware inaaglazed skins in earthenware pot pot with with the the beans usual seasoning, seasoning, meats, meats, aromatic aromatic vegetables vegetables and pinchof andaapinch of usual garlic. garlic. Drain and place them and place them inin an an earthenware earthenware pot pot which which has has Drain been lined lined with with the the fresh fresh bacon bacon skins, skins, knuckle knuckle of pork, of pork, been pork, sa breast of of pork, sausage, and aa leg leg of of confit confit d'oie. d'oie. breast usage, and Sprinkle with with aa layer layer of of coarse coarse breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and add add Sprinkle goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for several hours. goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for several hours. good golden When aa good golden crust crust has has formed formed on on the the surface surface of of When the cassoulet cassoulet stir stir itit inin with with aa spoon spoon and and repeat repeat this this 22 or or 33 the times. times. Gourmets like like this this served served with with either either aa fine fine red red Aquitaine Aquitaine Gourmets wine or or with with an an old old Minervois Minervois wine. wine. wine Cassoulet de de Castelnaudary Castelnaudary fi tr -- For For eight people soak eight people soak Cassoulet (If, pints, litre (I~ pints, generous generous quart) quart) dried dried white white haricot haricot beans beans 1I litre for several several hours, hours, but not for for too but not too long long or or they they may may begin begin to to for ferment. Simmer Simmer in in an an earthenware (l l oz.) earthenware pot pot with g. (lI with 300 300 g. oz.) ferment. salt breast (7 oz.) pork, 200 breast of g. (7 of pork, 200 g. oz.) desalted desalted rolled-up rolled-up bacon bacon salt skins, aa carrot, carrot, an an onion onion stuck stuck with with cloves, cloves, and and aa bouquet bouquet skins, garni containing 33 cloves garlic. Season cloves of of gar!ic. Season with with aa very very little little garni containing salt. salt. In another another pan, pan, brown brown in in lard lard or goose fat, (lft lb.) g. (1 or goose fat,750 lb.) 750 g. In loin of pork and of pork and 500 g. (generous I lb.) boned loin of mutton, 500 g. (generous lib.) boned loin of mutton, loin well seasoned seasoned with with salt pepper. Add salt and and pepper. Add 22 medium-sized medium-sized weil chopped on garni and onions, bouquet garni and 22 crushed crushed cloves cloves of of chopped ions, aa bouquet garlic. Continue Continue cooking cooking with with the lid on the !id gravy or on and and add add gravy or garlic. beef stock stock from from time time to to time. time. beef When the haricots are the haricots are nearly nearly cooked, cooked, remove remove the the carrot, carrot, When onion, and and bouquet garni, and bouquet garni, put in and put in the pork, mutton, the pork, mutton, aa onion, garlic sausage, a leg of confit d'oie or confit de canard, dnd a garlic sausage, a leg of confit d'oie or confit de canard, and a home-made sausage. sausage. Sim gently for Simmer for 1I hour. hour. home-made mer gently pieces of Remove the the pieces meat from of meat from the the haricot beans. Cut Cut Remove haricot beans. pork, mutton the pork, mutton and goose into and goose slices of of equal equal size, size, cut cut the the the into slices bacon skins skins into pieces, the garlic skinned gar!ic bacon into rectangular rectangular pieces, the skinned sausage and and the sausage into slices. the sausage into slices. sausage Put into earthenware pot lined with skins, Put into aa large large earthenware pot lined with bacon bacon skins, of haricot haricot beans beans and and then then aa layer layer of of thc th" various various meats meats aalayer layer of with alternate layers, of their their sauce. sauce. Fill Fill the the pot pot with with alternate layers, with some sorne of seasoning On seasoning each each one one with with a a little little freshly freshly ground ground pepper. pepper. On the the last last layer layer of of haricots haricots lay lay slices slices of of salt salt pork, pork, bacon bacon skins, skins, and slices of and slices of garlic garlic sausage. sausage. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with white white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and pour pour over over them them aa goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for about l] hours. little little goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for about It hours. Serve Serve the the cassoulet cassoulet in in the the pot pot in in which which itit has has cooked. cooked. There There are are other other Languedocian Languedocian cassoulets, cassoulets, that that of of Luchon, Luchon, for example, which pistache. is called for example, which is called pistache.

(A LA) CATALANE LA) -- Garnish Garnish for for large large pieces pieces of of meat meat CAT ALANE (A composed of of aubergines aubergines sautéed saut6ed in in oil, pilaf of oil, and and pilaf of rice. rice. composed (SeeGARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) (See CATECHU. CACHOU cAcHou -- Thick Thick sap sap which which cornes comes from from aa CATECHU. variety of of lndian Indian acacia. acacia. Areca (betel nut). Areca catechu cotechu (betel nut). The variety The catechu isis found found inin compact, compact, crumbly, crumbly, irregular irregular masses masses catechu which are are brownish brownish on on the the outside outside and and reddish-brown reddish-brown on which on inside. ItIt should the inside. should neither neither stick itick to to the the tongue tongue nor nor tint tint the the the saliva red. red. saliva Its taste, taste, at at first first bitter bitter and and astringent, astringent, becomes becomes sweet sweet Its and clean clean without without any any smel!. smell. The The most prized varieties most highly highly prized varieties and come from from Sri Sri Lanka Lanka and and Burma, Burma, the latter having the latter having medicinal medicinal come properties. properties. The catechu catechu contains contains aa strong proportion of strong proportion of tannin, tannin, The gives itit astringent which gives astringent properties. properties. which

Catfish Catfish

porssoN-cHAr - American CATFISH. river fish fish found prinCA TFISH. POISSON-CHAT - American river cipally in in the the Mississippi basin. basin. It It has six bar barbels cipally has six bels or feelers around the the mou mouth from 30 (12 to 30 to to 60 60 cm. cm. (12 to 24 around th reaching from inches) in in length. length. The flesh is is delicate and and there there are not too inches) manv bones. many bones.

A

B

CASTAGNACI CASTAGNACI (Corsican (Corsican cookery) cookery) -- Thick Thick fritters fritters or or waffies made with chestnut flour. waffies made with chestnut flour.

Cat Cat and aDd rabbit rabbit bones: bones: A. of rabbit: Hindlimbofrabbit; A. Hindlimb B. B. Hindlimb Hindlimb of ofcat; cat; C. C. Forelimbofcat; Forelimbofcat; D. rabbit D. Forelimb Forelimb of ofrabbit

preparation CASTIGLIONE CASTIGLIONE (A (A LA) LA) -- Preparation of of small small pieces pieces of of

meat. meaL The The Castiglione Castiglione garnish garnish consists consists of of large large mushrooms mushrooms stuffed stuffed with with rice rice and and browned browned in in the the oven, oven, aubergines aubergines saut6ed in butter, and slices of poached beef marrow- (see sautéed in butter, and slices of poached beef marrow (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES).

CASTRATE. CASTRATE. cuArnrn CHÂTRER -- Castration Castration of of animals animais destined destined for their fattening. fattening. for the the butcher, butcher, to to hasten hasten their The The word word chdtrer châtrer is is also also applied applied to to ihe the removal removal of of the the intestines intestines of ofcrayfish crayfish (U.S. (U .S. crawfish) crawfish) before before cooking. cooking. In In order order

to to do do this this the the central central part part of of the the tail tail is is pinched pinched and and the the

intestines intestines emerge. emerge. CAT. cH,c,r CAT. CHAT -- Domestic Domestic cat cat whose whose edible edible meat meat has has aa flavour flavour halfway halfway between between that that of of rabbit rabbit and and hare. hare. Cat's Cat's meat rneat has has often periods been eaten in of famine famine or or siege. siege. Legend Legend has has often been eaten in periods of itit that that in in the the cook-shops cook-shops the the cat cat isis often often used used in in the the making ma king of of rabbitfricassies. rabbit fricassées. Examination Examination of ofthe the bones bones would would easily easily enable of doubt, doubt, to to distinguish distinguish between between the the enable one, one, in in case case of two animals. two animais.

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CAULIFLOWER CAULIFLOWER or noisette cHouCauliflower with Cauliflower with brown butter butter or noisette butter. butter. CHOUcauliflower florets in salted - Boil the cauliflower in the shape of a dome. water and and arrange them on aa dish in and lemon Cover with Sprinkle with chopped parsley and Sprinkle lemon juice. juice. Coyer (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Combutter (see Brown butter butter or with Noisette butter pound butters.) m CRÈME cnErvrn -- Cook cream. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR A Cauliflower Cauliflower with cream. À LA above, drain, and and toss described above, the cauliflower cauliflower in the way described in their original form. their original in Rearrange the the florets butter. Rearrange florets in in butter. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Crearn Cover with aa Cre Coyer am sauce sauce (see EN FRITOTS FRITors -- Cook the Cauliflower fritters. fritters. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR EN Cauliflower water, keeping them rather florets in in salted salted water, cauliflower florets keeping them in oil, oil, lemon and soak them 30 minutes in Drain, and firm. them for firm. Drain, for 30 juice, pepper. and pepper. chopped parsley, parsley, salt and juice, chopped (see BATTER). in BATTER). Fry Fry in in aa light light batter Dip the Dip the florets florets in batter (see Serve with tomato fried parsley. and sprinkle sprinkle with fried deep fat and parsley. Serve sauce. sauce.

P or KETCHUP -- Condiment of English CATSUP English origin, origin, CATST widely used in England England and and U.S.A. It has has a a tomato used both in base and is highly spiced. spiced.

FLET;R FLEUR AU BEURRE BEURRE NorR NOIR -

CAUF. BANNEToN BANNETON - Receptacle Receptacle with with holes holes which permits permits CAUF. fish to be kept alive in water. This term is also used usee! to describe a baker's bread basket. basket. CAUL. cntprhrr CRÉPINE - Membrane Membrane enclosing the paunch paunch of enclosing the CALTL. animaIs, applied applied particularly to to that that of pork and and mutton. animals, In French, this is also called toilette. CHOU-FLEUR -- Vegetable Vegetable of CAULIFLOWER. cHou-FLEUR of oriental oriental origin, known known in Italy since the sixteenth sixteenth century. A delicate

food which must always always be bought when when its leaves are green. This is is an an indication of freshness. The leaves leaves are are edible. CHOU-FLEUR A À r'lNcrArsn L'ANGLAfSE - Boil Boiled cauliflower. cauliflower. cHou-FLEUR Boiled Boil a drain and and serve with melted in salted water, drain cauliflower in salted water. serve with butter. butter. According to the English Engl.ish method aa cauliflower served in way must must be be cooked whole, whole, with with two this way rows of tender two rows leaves enveloping the flower-head. The leaves, ribs, The ribs, and not be be wasted. wasted. They and stems should not are excellent trimmed and cookee! cooked with the white part. They excellent trimmed can also be used for soup, can also soup, hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, etc. etc.

gratin au gratin Cauliflower Cauliflower au

GRATIN -- Cook Cook the au gratin. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR AU AU GRATIN Cauliflower au and in boiling salted water, water, drain drain them, them, and cauliflower florets in boiling salted cauliflower florets gratin dish dish and and in butter. Arrange on on aa buttered buttered gratin toss toss gently in (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with coyer sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with Mornay Mornay sauce cover with oven. in the grated chee and brown brown in the oyen. grated se and and melted melted butter, butter, and cheese rrtIt,c,NAIsE -rl MILANAISE cnou-rrsuR ÀA LA Cauliflower àI la la milanaise. milanaise. CHOU-FLEUR drain water, drain in boiling salted salted water, Cook florets in Cook the cauliflower florets the cauliflower grated Pargently in Parwith grated and in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with and toss toss them them gently oven. When When in the Brown in mesan melted butter. butter. Brown the oyen. cheese and and melted mesan cheese (see BUTTER, BUTTER, pour on Noisette butter butter (see serving, little Noisette serving, pour on aa little Compound Compound butters). butters). in MoRNAY -- Prepared Prepared in Cauliflower Mornay. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR MORNAY Cauliflower Mornay. gratin. the me way &t gratin. way as as Cauliflower Cauliflower au the sa same pAIN DE in the Made in the Cauliflower DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Made mould. PAfN Cauliflower mould. pur6e of of with aa purée same Endive loaf(see ENDIVE) but but with same way way as as Endive loaf (see ENDIVE) ca uliflower. cauliflower. PoLoNAISE -Cauliflower i, LA LA POLONAISE la polonaise. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-TLEUR À Cauliflower ài la and sprinkle sprinkle Arrange on aa buttered dish and Arrange cooked cauliflower on buttered dish cooked cauliflower yolks mixed with chopped chopped mixed with with egg yolks with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled egg (see parsley. Pour Noisette butter butter (see parsley. cauliflower Noisette Pour over over the the cauliflower fried in which which have have been been fried BUTTER, butters) in BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) (4 oz., g. (4 per 100 g. (1(l oz., 100 g. oz., !I 25 25 g. fresh breadcrumbs oz., tI cup) cup) fresb breadcrumbs per frothy. cup) at once; should be be frotby. cup) butter. Serve at once; the the butter butter should butter. Serve

Cauliflower, Cauliflower, whole and flower and with flower head detached (right), which isis the only only detached (right), part generally generally used used for for consurnption consumption

(cold). CHOU-FLEUR BoiIed with various variors sauces sauc€s (cold). cHou-FLEUR Boiled cauliflower with into florets, florets, cook cook them in cauliflower into them in the cauliflower - Divide the salted put tbem cold tap. water, drain, and put the cold tap. under the drain, and salted water, them under Arrange in their form. Serve Serve with Arrange the florets in their original original form. the Borets Vinaigrette sauce, cold sauce Mayonnaise or or sorne some other other cold sauce sauce, Mayonnaise (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). (hot). CHOU-FLEUR Boiled with various variors sauces sauces (hot). cttou-FLEUR Boiled cauliflower cauliflower with BOUILLI into florets, florets, trim, and boil boil cauliflower into trim, and BourLLr -- Divide the the cauliflower them in their in salted Drain, and and arrange arrange them them in their water. Drain, them in salted water. original form. Garnish with fresh fresh parsley. original form. Garnish with Serve for melted butter butter or or one one of of the the usual usual sauces sauces for with melted Serve with boiled White sauce, sauce, etc. etc. vegetables: Cream, Hollanldaise, White boiled vegetables: Cream, Hollandaise, (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). BOUILLI BourLLI -

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CAVAILLON CAVAILLON punfr DE pur6e. PURÉE Cauliflower purée. DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Cook Cook and and CauliOower drain aa caulifiower, cauliflower, dry for aa moment moment inin the dry itit for the oyen, oven, and and drain pass itit through through aa sieve. sieve. Add Add one-quarter one-quarter of of its its weight weight of of pass potato purée, pur6e, and and heat. heat. Mix Mix inin fresh fresh cream, cream, butter and butter and potato seasoning. seasoning. Cauliflower sai salad. sALADE DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Boil Boil aa caulicauliCauliflower ad. SALADE flower in in salted salted water, water, and and drain. drain. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, flower juice, salt lemon juice, pepper. Sprinkle salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped chopped chervil. chervil. lemon Cauliflower sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR SAUTÉ slur6 AU eu CauliOower BEURRE -- Blanch Blanch cauliflower cauliflower florets, florets, drain, drain, and and cook cook in in BEURRE butter until lightly browned. until lightly browned. Arrange Arrange in in aa dish pour dish and and pour butter the butter butter over. over. the Cauliflower soufflé. sorffd. SOUFFLÉ sourrrf DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Prepare Prepare Cauliflower with cauliflower cauliflower boiled boiled in in salt salt water. water. Pass Pass itit through fine through aa fine with in the (see CHICORY, sieve, in same way as for for Chicory the same way as Chicory soufflé CHICORY, sou,ffii (see sieve, ENDTVE). ENDIVE). Stalks and and stumps stumps of of cauliflower. cauliflower. MOELLE MoELLE DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR Stalks Trim the the stalks stalks or removing the or stumps, stumps, removing woody outer outer the woody -- Trim casing. Blanch Blanch whole whole if if they they are with the vegeare to to be be served served with the vegecasing. are to table. If If they they are be cooked cooked separately, separately, cut to he pieces. cut into into pieces. table. After blanching, these prepared these stalks stalks and and stumps stumps can can be be prepared After in the way as the same same way as artichoke artichoke stalks stalks or or endive endive stumps. stumps. in

The baby baby sturgeons sturgeons rapidly rapidly struggle from the freefrom struggle free fertile the fertile The eggs and, and, after after aa three-month period inin the place of three-month period theplace of their their eggs birth, descend descend to mouth of of the to the the mouth riverwhere wherethey remain the river they remain birth, years. They for several several years. They then move toto the andlive livethere then move thesea sea and for there grown, returning returning toto the until fully fully grown, river only only when the river when they until they reach the age of reproduction. the age of reproduction. reach At one one time, time, the the Cossacks Cossacks of of the Ural River River harpooned harpooned the Ural At holes in fish through the fish through holes in the the ice, ice, thus thus obtaining obtaining the first the the first year. This yellowy-gold caviare caviare of of the This yellowy-gold the year. caviare was was superior superior caviare gift worthy rest, aa gift all the to ail the rest, Tsar, to preworthy of of the whomthey the Tsar, to whom they preto it. sented it. sented Extracting the caviare isis aa knack knack acquired the caviare acquired only only through Extracting through Immediately the gutted (while (while fish isiscaught, experience. Immediately the fish caught, itit isisgutted experience. still alalive, and after after having having let let its its blood still ive, and blood through through an an incision incision under the the caudal caudal fin fin so as to so as to diminish its reactions). reactions). The under diminish its The are immediately immediately extracted eggs are placed on extracted and and placed eggs on aa special special sieve sieve washed, drained, to be be washed, drained, and and salted. salted. to perfected aa type Soviet scientists scientists have have perfected Soviet of Caesarian type of Caesarian operation for for sturgeons possible for sturgeons that makes itit possible operation that makes for them them to to be thrown thrown back into the river alive back into the river alive and and recommence recommence the be the reproduction cycle. cycle. reproduction process, Iran Whatever the the process, Iran and proand Russia, Russia, the Whatever the biggest biggest producers, offer offer three three types types of of caviare: cavi4re: ducers, malossol -- A plump, Caviare firm, plump, Caviare malossol A fresh fresh caviare caviare with with firm, packed in sparkling eggs eggs packed in specially sparkling lasso 1 specially treated treated tins. tins. Ma Malossol 'slightly salted' means 'slightly Russia. salted' in in Russia. means Fresh salted Fresh salted caviare caviare -- From From both Russia and and Iran. both Russia Iran. ItIt isis prepared using prepared using eggs eggs collected collected during during the the hot hot season. season. Packed Packed (132 lb.) in in casks casks which which contain contain approximately kg. (132 approximately 60 lb.) 60 kg. caviare. It It isis difficult difficult to in Europe. caviare. to find find in Europe. Pressed the fishing at the Pressed caviare caviare -- Prepared Prepared at fishing season. the end end of ofthe season. It It consists consists of mass of of aa dense of crushed crushed black dense mass black eggs eggs which which are are jars. packed in glass jars. in small packed small glass production of French French annual annual production of caviare caviare does does not not amount amount to to (which at more more than than 33 tons, tons, and and the the sturgeon sturgeon (which at one one time time was was even even caught caught in rare. in the and more more rare. the Seine) Seine) is is becoming becoming more more and Depending Depending upon yields upon its its age age and and size, size, aa female female sturgeon sturgeon yields (9 to anything anything from from 44 to 16 kg. kg. (9 lb.) eggs. to 16 to 35 eggs. The The average average 35 lb.) yield per (13 lb.) per fish yield in the the Gironde Gironde isis 66 kg. kg. (13 lb.) Eaten fish caught caught in Eaten lightly lightly salted salted aa few few days days after after being being fished, fished, French French caviare caviare is is delicious. Gourmets Gourmets eat eat caviare caviare as as itit is, is, without without toast toast or or butter, butter, juice. simply on juice. simply adding aa sprinkling lemon sprinkling of of lem There qualities of There are are different different qualities of caviare caviare and and many many other other fishes' fishes' eggs are sold eggs are commercially under sold commercially under the the name name of of ('salmon caviare', 'caviare' 'caviare' ('salmon caviare', for for example), example), but but the the term term 'caviare' on its own can on its can only be be used used to to designate products based based on on sturgeon roe.

CAVAILLON -- Little Little town in the Vaucluse district town in the Vaucluse district which which CAVAILLON given its has given (see MELON). its name name to variety of to aa variety of melon melon (see MELON). has CAVEAU Small cellar, cellar, sometimes sometimes reserved for for fine fine wines. wirres. CA VEAU -- Small

CAVEAU(LE)society, bacchic and gastronomic. and gastronomic. CAVEAU .t'LE) - Literary society, in 1729 by Piron, Piron, Collé, Coll6, Gallet Gallet and and Crébillon Cr6billonfils. Founded in fils. CAVIARE. cAvrAR -- The The roe roe of the the sturgeon sturgeon family, family, lightly lightly CA VIARE. CAVIAR salted saI ted or marinated. is the 'fruit' of the 'fruit' of the the sturgeon, sturgeon, aa migra migratory fish, of of Caviare is tory fish, which there there are are aa dozen dozen or or so so different different varieties, varieties, each each which belonging to one of two two species. species. That That found found in in the Gironde sturio. is Acipenser sturio. The sturgeon sturgeon lives lives in in coastal coastal waters waters and and in in the the spring, spring, The it swims up up the rivers to spawn. The time when fully grown, it of this migratory the temperature of migra tory movement depends upon the of the water, which itself depends upon upon the the severity severity of the of preceding win winter and the the melting snows. It It usually usually takes ter and melting snows. place sometime between March and and July. The females year) search their eighth eighth or or ninth ninth year) The females (then (then in in their for a deep sandy pool in the upper reaches reaches of ofthe the river where the water is fresh; fresh; while the males (from six to to seven seven years onwards) love pursuit, pursuit, escorting the of love onwards) engage in in a a kind kind of females to the spawning grounds.

CA VOUR (À (A LA) -- Method of preparing preparing small CAVOUR pieces of small pieces of meat, meat, especially especially veal veal escalopes escalopes and and calves' calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. These are served on circles of polenta, garnished garnished with grilled grilled pur6e of mushrooms and and filled filled with with aa purée livers and of chicken livers and slices of truffie.

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YENNE PEPPER CA PEPPER CAYENNE pimenta. pimento.

See pepper or See PEPPER, PEPPER, Red Red pepper or

CELERIAC or CELERY ROOTS. CÉLERI-RA VE CELERIAC cfr-rRr-n^q,w

- Celeriac - Celeriac is a variety variety of of celery which has has a large edible edible root. Wash and

celeriac. Divide into quarters and pare the celeriac. and cut cut into into pieces or large slices. Blanch them for for 5 minutes in in boiling salted salted water, plunge into cold water, water, drain, water, drain, and and wipe wipe dry. dry. Cook Cook them in butter, adding a little littIe white stock or water. All Ali the are applicable to recipes for branch celery are to celeriac. The following recipes can also be be applied to this this vegetable. The vegetable. JULIENNE oE DE CÉLERI-RAVE Celeriac julienne. JULTENNE cfrenl-nAvE - Used Used as as aa celeriac, wash and cut it into matchgarnish. Pare a root of celeriac, or julienne julienne strips. Put them into aa saut6 sauté pan pan in in which which stick or

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Caviare ((Pelrossian. Phal. Nicolas) C.attlare Petossian. Phot.

196 196

CELERY CELERY Celery Celery contains contains an an essential essential oil, oil, which which isis highly highly aromatic. aromatic. According According to to the the different different varieties, varieties, either either the the stems, stems, elonelon-

I1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter has has been been heated. heated. Add Add salt salt and and aa little little powdered powdered sugar, sugar, and and cook cook slowly. slowly. Celeriac Celeriac purde. purée. punrn PURÉE or DE cfrnru-Rlvs CÉLERI-RAVE -- Garnish Garnish for for large large or or small small pieces pieces of of meat. meat. The The pur6e purée isis prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as for for Cardoon Cardoon purie purée (see (see CARDOON). CARDOON). Salpicon of of celeriac. celeriac. sALPIcoN SALPICON os DE cErrRI-nAvE CÉLERI-RAVE - Cut Cut the the Salpicon celeriac into into squares, squares, blanch blanch in in salted salted water, water, drain, drain, and and celeriac cook cook in in butter. butter. Stuffed celeriac celeriac ilà la la paysanne. paysanne. cfr,Eru-nc,vE CÉLERI-RAVE A À uq. LA p.lvslNNe PAYSANNE Stuffed - Used Used as as a a garnish. garnish. Pare Pare and and slice slice 2 2 oeleriac celeriac roots roots into into rounds rounds 33 cm. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) thick. thick. Blanch Blanch for for 55 minutes minutes in in salted salted water, into cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and and dry dry in in aa cloth. clotho Scoop Scoop water, plunge plunge into its depth. aa hollow hollow in in each each slice slice to to half halfits depth. Dice Dice the the pulp pulp which which has has been been hollowed hollowed out, out, and and add add double double the the quantity quantity of of carrot and and onion onion brunoise brunoise (q.v.) (q.v.) sautéed in in butter butter and and seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. saut6ed Stuff the the celeriac slices with this this mixture. mixture. Put Put them tbem in in aa buttered ovenware ovenware dish, dish, dust dust them them with with grated grated cheese, cheese, buttered sprinkle with melted melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in aa moderate moderate oven' oyen. sprinkle All used for tomatoes tomatoes and artichoke hearts hearts Ali the stuffings used be applied applied to celeriac. celeriac. can also be

gated gated by by trussing trussing or or culture cultrne in in the the dark, dark, or or the the roots roots (celeriac) (celeriac) are are eaten. eaten. Both Both are are eaten eaten raw raw in in salad, salad, or or cooked. cooked.

The The Loire Loire Valley Valley is is the the principal principal region region of of French French proproduction. duction. Celery Celery has has diuretic diuretic and and appetite-stimulating appetite-stimulating properties. properties. Celery Celery juice juice is is rich rich in in Vitamins Vitamins A A and and C. C.

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BRANCH BRANCH (FORCED) (FORCED) CELERY. CELERY. cfrnru CÉLERI EN EN BRANcHBS BRANCHES -Trim Trim off off the the upper upper branches brancbes of of the the celery, celery, keeping keeping only only the the tender tender parts. parts. Remove Remove the the green green outer outer stems stems and and trim trim the the run to water allowing root. root. Wash Wash the the base base of of the the celery, celery, allowing water to run

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between between the the stems stems so so that that all ail earth earth or or other other foreign foreign matter matter is is washed washed away. away. Pare Pare the the outer outer stems stems to to remove remove the the fibres. fibres.

Blanch Blanch the the celery celery in in boiling boiling salted salted water water for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Plunge Plunge into into cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and and wipe wipe dry' dry. Spread Spread out out on on aa cloth, cio th, open open the the stems stems slightly slightly and and season season inside. inside. Tie Tie them them together, together, 22 or or 33 at at aa time, time, and and put put them them in in aa deep deep casserole casserole which which is is already already buttered buttered and and lined lined with with Cover carrots. and sliced bacon bacon rinds, rinds, chopped chopped onions onions and sliced carrots. Coyer with with white white stock stock from from which which not not all ail the the fat fat has has been been skimmed, skimmed,

or or with with beef beef stock. stock. Begin Begin cooking cooking on on the the stove, stove, then then remove rem ove the the pan pan to to the the at a oven oyen and and cook cook for for l] 1t hours hours at a low low temperature. temperature. au maigre Celery Celery can can be be cooked cooked au maigre (without (without meat) meat) by by omitomitstock with replacing the and replacing rinds and ting ting the the bacon bacon rinds the stock with water. water. sfcHlMEL -cELERIS A sauce. CÉLERIS with b6chamel Celery with Celery béchamel sauce. À rl LA BÉCHAMEL each and halve drain, and Braise Braise the the celery, celery, drain, halve it it lengthways. lengthways. Fold Fold each l0 for 10 and sim simmer in aa buttered put in buttered pan portion in half, half, put portion in pan and mer for (see too thick thick (see sauce -- not Bichamel sauce with Béchamel Cover with minutes. minutes. Coyer not too minutes. few minutes. again for for aa few Simmer SAUCE). Sim SAUCE). mer again and Trim, wash, wash, and BEURRE -- Trim, cELERIs AU in butter. butter. CÉLERIS Celery in Celery AU BEURRE Halve water. Halve in salted salted water. l0 minutes minutes in for 10 heads for celery heads blanch celery blancb in aa portion in in two. Place in two. Place each portion and bend bend each lengthways and them lengthways them few tabletablewith aa few pan, season, and moisten moisten with season, and well-buttered pan, well-buttered for 45 45 minutes minutes covered, for Cook, covered, water. Cook, or water. white stock stock or spoons white spoons

hour. or 1I horn. or and shorten shorten Pare and A LA CRÈME cniue -- Pare cfrnp.ls À with cream. cream. CÉLERIS Celery with Celery from fibres from the fibres remove tbe and remove Wash them them and celery. Wash of celery. heads of heads plunge water, plunge boiling water, in salted salted boiling Blanch in stems. Blanch outside stems. the outside the drY. and dry. drain, and water, drain, into cold cold water, into in aa wellwellarrange them them in lengthways, arrange Halve the heads lengthways, the heads Halve (or with with light bouillon bouillon (or with aa light pan, season, and coyer cover with season, and buttered pan, buttered maigre)' au maigre). you want serve them them au want to to serve if you water if water put itit in for pan and in the the oyen oven for and put the pan Cover the Bring to to the the boil. boil. Coyer Bring and pieces in in half, half, and the pieces celery, bend bend the the celery, Drain the hour. Drain about 1I hour. about down. and boil boil itit down. liquor, skim, skim, and the liquor, place on dish. Strain Strain the on aa dish. place sauce B6chamel sauce cup) Béchamel scant I cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (3(3 tablespoons, Add to to itit t+ dl. Add (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see (| pint, fresh cream. cream. thick fresh pint, seant cup) thick scant cup) dl. (1 with 22 dl. Moisten with Moisten Mix, strain, strain, butter. Mix, add 1I tablespoon tablespoon butter. and add half and Boil down down by by balf Boil the celery. celery. pour this over the sauce and porn this sa and uce over rl' (cold hors cfreRJs ÀA LA d'cuvre). CÉLERIS hon d'œuvre). grecque (cold Celery à lala grecque Celery quarters into quarters well, divide divide into wash weil, heads, wash Trim celery celery heads, cREceuE -- Trim GRECQUE fot Artichokes Artichokes àh described for manner described prepare them in the the manner them in and prepare and (see ARTICHOKE). grecque (see ARTICHOKE). lala grecque The same as same as I'ITAIIENNe cfrnrus ÀA L'IT l'italienne. CÉLERIS Celery àI l'italienne. Celery AUENNE -- The (see CARDOON). CARDOON). I'italienne (see for Cardoons Cardoons àd l'italienne for jus. CÉLERIS for Cardoons Cardoons asfor The same same as AUJUS Jus -- The cfrrrus AU Celery au au jus. Celery jus (see (see CARDOON). CARDOON). au jus au as The same same as t A MOELLE l,roslt,s -- The c6rsnts ÀA LA with marrow. marrow. CÉLERIS Celery with Celery (see CARDOON). CARDOON). withmarrow marrow (see forCardoons Cardoons with for for The same sameasas for MoRNAY - Tbe cfrnrus MORNAY Mornay. CÉLERIS Celery Mornay. CeJery (see CARDOON). CARDOOI'{). Mornay (see Cardoons Mornay Cardoons The same same PARMESAN- - The AUPARMESAN cfI.sns AU with Parmesan. Parmesan. CÉLERIS Celery with Celery (seeCARDOON). CARDOOI'Q. Parmesan (see withParmesan forCardoons Cardoons with asasfor peCÉLERIS punfeDE pur6e ininthe the thepurée Prepare the pur6e.PURÉE cfLBRIs- - Prepare Celerypurée. Celery

u

t

i

Varietiesof ofcelerv and celeriac celeriac Varieties celery and

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Usedaa celery. Used wild celery. form of of wild Cultivated form CELERY. cErenr- - Cultivated CELERY. CÉLERI into wider wider not come come into did not Romans, celery celerydid great deal great deal by the Romans, by the havetried tried Growers have century. Growers cultivation the sixteenth sixteenth century. until the cultivation until root. asweil wellasasthe the root. to leaves as the leaves todevelop develop the 197 197

CELLAR same way way as as for purie (see (see CARDOON), for Cardoon Cardoon purée CARDOON), using using same braised celery, celery, cooked cooked with with beef beefbouillon bouillon or or water. water. Add Add braised potatoes inin the proportion of the proportion of aa third third of of the the volume volume of of the the potatoes celery; this this improves improves the the consistency. consistency. celery; Celery with with various various sauces. sauces. CÉLERIS cELERrs AUX AUx SAUCES sAUcEs DIVERSES DrvERsEs Celery Pare, wash, wash, and and blanch blanch celery. celery. Cook Cook inin salted salted water, water, drain, drain, -- Pare, and serve serve like like asparagus, asparagus, with with sauces sauces handed handed separately. separately. and Celery vinaigrette. vinaigrette. CÉlERIS cfrsRrs ÀA LA r.q, VINAIGRETTE vtN.q,rcRETrr -- Scrape Scrape Celery and wash wash the the celery. celery. Arrange Arrange the the sticks sticks in glass. in aa crystal crystal glass. and Serve with (see SAUCE) with Vinaigrellesallce Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE) handed handed separately. separately. Serve

viding him him with with the theenergy energy necessary necessary for physical work, for his his physical work, viding as weil well as glucosides and as valuable valuableglucosides and Vitamin Vitamin B. B. as Flour-refining processes processes too too often often deprive deprive the the cereal cereal of Flour-refining of its husk germ, both husk and and germ, both of of which which contain contain these these vital vital nutrinutriits tive elements. elements. ItIt isis for for this this reason reason that that dieticians dieticians advocate advocate tive the consumption consumption of of wholemeal wholemeal bread, bread, sprouted sprouted wheat wheat and and Ihe whole rice. rice. whole CERVELAS -- Sausage Sausage made made of pork meat of pork meat and pork fal, and pork fat, CERVELAS seasoned with garlic. This with garlic. This type type of of charcuterie charcuterue isis so-called so-called seasoned (cervelle), particularly because brains brains (cervelle), particularly pigs' pigs' brains, brains, once once because formed part part of of its its composition. composition. ItIt isis also also ca called Saucisson formed lied Saucisson (see SAUCISSON, de Paris Paris (sec SAUCISSON, Parisian Parisian saucisson). saucisson'\. de

CELLAR. CAVE cAVE -- Underground Underground room room with with or or without without an an CELLAR. arched ceiling, ceiling, in in which which wine wine isis kept. kept. A good cellar A good cellar must must be be arched (10" to cool (100 to Ire., 12C.,50' to 54'F,), 54'F.), slightly slightly damp, damp, and and the the air air cool 50° to must circulate circulate aa little. little. must Liqueur cellar. cellar. CAVE c,c,vs ÀA LIQUEURS LreuEURs -- Chest, Chest, made made by by aa Liqueur cabinet maker maker or goldsmith, used or goldsmith, used to to lock lock up precious ftagons up precious flagons cabinet and sometimes sometimes liqueur glasses. liqueur glasses. and

CHABICHOU -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHABICHOU CHABISSOUS or or CABECOUS CABECOUS -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHABISSOUS

CHABLIS -- Town Town in in the the district district of of Yonne Yonne famous famous for for its CHABLIS its (see WINE). white wines wines (see WINE). white

CELLULOSE -- A A substance substance of of varying varying degrees degrees of of hardhardCELLULOSE ness which which forms forms the the tissue tissue of of vegetable vegetable matter. matter. ness

CHABOISSEAU -- Freshwaler Freshwater fish fish of of the the Couus Cottus family familv CHABOISSEAU which has has delicatc delicate flesh. flesh. which

CENTRAL AMERICA AMERICA -- Sec See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKCOOKCENTRAL ERY, American American cookery. cookery. ERY,

CHABOT -- Mediterranean Mediterranean fish fish which which locally locally isis called called CHABOT 'scorpion', 'sea-devil', 'sea-devil', and 'toad', on and 'toad', account of on account of ilS its strange 'scorpion', strange appearance. It It isis also 'tadpole' because of its also known as as 'tadpole' its large appearance. head, and and'grumbler' and'sea-cock' of the rumbling 'grumbler' and 'sea-cock' because of head, sound it it makes makes when held in the hand. hand. The ftesh flesh ofthis of this fish is sound delicate and and is is used in bouillabaisse bouillabaisse and fish fish soups. soups. It should delicate used in Il should not be be eaten eaten during Ihe the spawning season from November to not May. In In France, France, chub are sometimes called chabot. May.

CENTRAL EUROPE EUROPE Al\.'D AI\D THE THE BALKANS BALKANS -- See See ININCENTRAL TERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. TERNATIONAL CEPAGE -- Plant, Plant, variety variety of of vine. vine. French French vines, vines, restocked restocked CÉPAGE with American American vines, vines, have have been grafted onto been grafted onto the ancient the ancient with vine stocks stocks which which are are recognised recognised as as the the bcst best in in each each region. region. vine The number of vine vine varieties varieties is is considerable. considerable. Among Among the the The number of principal stocks stocks there there are: are: principal In Bordeaux Bordeaux the the Cabernet Cabernet franc, the Cabernet Cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon, In franc, the the Merlot, the Malbec, and the the Venlot Verdot for the Mer/ol, the Ma/bec, and for red rcd wines; wines; the the Sauvignon, the the Sémillon, Simillon, and and the the Muscadel/e for white Sauvignon, Muscadelle for white wines. wines. In the Pinot noir is ln Burgundy, Burgundy, the Pinot noir is the the principal principal wine wine stock stock for for the the Chardonnay Chardonnay for for the same in the red rcd wines; wines; the the white. white. The Tbe same in Champagne except noir is Champagne except that that the the Pinot Pinot noir is made made into into white white wine. Gamay excellence in wine. Gamay is is the the vine vine par par excellence in Beaujolais. Beaujolais. It Tt is is also also grown grown all ail over over central central France France and and in in the the west. west. The The Syrah Syrah and and the the Viognier Viognier are are found found mainly mainly in in the the northern northern C6tes Côtes du du Rh6ne; Rhône; the the Grenache, Grenache, Carignon, Carignon, Cinsault, Cinsalllt, Mourlv/ourvDdre, and Ugni are the the vines vines common common to to vèdre, Clairette, Clairette, and Ugni blanc blanc are the the south south of of France France and and the the southern southern Cdtes Côtes du du Rh6ne. Rhône. In In Alsace Riesling, TramiAlsace the the principal principal vines vines are are the the Sylvaner, Sylvaner, Riesling, Traminer, gris (Tokay), ner, Pinot Pinot gris (Tokay), and and Muscat. Musem. The The white white wines wines of of the the Loire Loire come come from from either either the the Sauvignon Sauvignon (Pouilly-sur-Loire, (Pouilly-sur-Loire, Sancerre, Sancerre, etc.), etc.), from from the the Chinin Chénin (Vouvray, (Vouvray, Saumur, Saumur, Anjou), Anjou), or or from from the the Muscadet. Muscadet. The The Jura Jura wines wines come come principally principally from from the the pinot Pinot blanc blanc and and the the Poulsart; Poulsarl; the the Muscat Muscat wines wines from from Roussillon Roussillon are arc derived and derived from from the the Alicante; Alicame; the the Grenache, Grenache, the the Aramon, Aramon, and the the Carigane Carigane are are the the vine vine stocks stocks with with aa high high yield, yield, cultivated cultivated in in the the ddpartemenls départements of of Aude, Aude, H6rault Hérault and and Gard. Gard. Among Among the the notable notable vine vine stocks stocks producing producing table table wines wines are are the the various variollS Chasselas, Chasselas, the the Muscats Muscats (white (white and and red), red), the the Oeillade, Oeillade, etc. etc.

Ctpn CÈPE --

CHAINGY -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHAlNGY

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CHALK. CHAUX cHAUx - Calcium Calcium oxide, oxide, found found in in various CHALK. various combinations and in different different forms in binations and in organic tissue. Drinking water contains water often con tains too high high aa proportion of calcium salt and is 'hard'. This and is called called 'hard'. This water water prevents the the satisfactory cooking can remove the calcium cooking of of vegetables. vegeta bles. One One can the ca lei um salts from drinking water by decanting it it after prolonged prolonged boiling from drinking and subsequent cooling, but aerated by and su bseq uent cooling, but it it must must then thcn be be aerated beating. CHAMBERTIN CHAMBERTIN - Vineyard Vineyard on the C6te Côte d'Or in the commune mune of of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gevrey-Chambertin. CHAMBORD CHAMBORD (A (A LA) LA) -- Method of of preparing preparing large large braised braised fish CARP, fish which which includes includes a a very very complex complex garnish. garnish. (See (See CARp, C ar p C hambo r d ; G ARNISHES). Carp Chambord; GARNISHES), CHAMBRER CHAMBRER -"- Said of of wines wines that that are brought brought up up from the the cellar hours before before they they are are due due to to be be served, so so that thal cellar several several hours they room temperature. temperature. All Ail red red they can can be be slowly slowly raised raised to to room Bordeaux Bordeaux should should be be chambri. chambré. The The expression expression goes goes back back to 10 a a time time when when the the word word chambre almost any any room room in in the the house. house. The The chambre could could apply apply to to almost pantry pantry was was the the chambre chambre where where the the wine wine was was usually usually kept kept before drunk. The The cold cold dishes dishes were were kept kepl in in the Ihe pantry pantry before being being drunk. and and its its temperature temperature was was therefore therefore not not very very high. high. Gastronomes Gastronomes are are more more or or less less in in agreement agreement that that the the various be served served at al the Ihe following following temtemvarious wines wines should should be peratures: peratures: Dry Dry white white wines, wines, between bclween 5" 5 and and 8"C. 8e e. (41'and (41° and 46"F.) 46°F.) Dessert Dessert white white wines, wines, between between 2 200 and and 5'C. 5°e. (36" (36° and and 4l'F.) 41 "F.) Rose 8° and and 10"C. 10 0 e. (46'and (46 0 and 50.F.) 50°F) Rosé wines, wines, between between 8o Light Light red red wines, wines, between between l0o 10° and and 12'C. 12°e. (50' (50° and and 53.F.) 53°F.) The The great great Burgundies, Burgundies, between betwecn l5o 15" and and 17"C. Ire. (59. (59 and and 63'F.) 63°F.) The The great great Bordeaux, Bordeaux, between betwecn 16'and 16° and l8'C. 18°e. (61" (61 0 and and 64'F.) 64°F.) Itlt isis also also aa question question of of taste. tas te. A A connoisseur connoisseur who who wishes wishes to Burgundy at at l8'C. 18°e. (64"F.) (64°F) and and his his Bordeaux Bordeaux at at to have have his his Burgundy

French French name name for for boletus boletus or or edible edible mushroom. mushroom.

C

Recipes Recipes will will be be found found under under MUSHROOM. MUSHROOM.

CEREALS. CEREALS. crn6,trrs CÉRÉALES -- Farinaceous Farinaceolls foodstuffs foodstuffs which which are are the the basis basis of of human hu man diet. d iet. Oats, Oats, wheat, wheat, maize, maize, millet, millet, barley, barley, rice, rice, rye rye and and Indian Indian millet millet are are the the gramineous gramineous crops; crops; only only buckwheat buckwheat belongs belongs to group. All Ali cereals cereals can can be be made made into into to the the polygonaceous polygonaceous group. bread, bread, but bul wheat wheat and and rye rye are are particularly parlicularly suitable suilable for for this this purpose. purpose. Cereals Cereals are are indispensable indispensable elements elements of of man's man's diet, diet, propro-

0

198 198

CHAMPAGNE 20'C. 20 e (68"F.) (68°F.) does not have have to uncork uncork the bottles and leave them in the dining-room, as he would have bave done in the old days. central heating, our dining-rooms have a a temdays. With central perature 24"C. (75'F.). peralure often as as high as as 22'C. noe (71"F.) (71°F.) or 24°e (75°F.). It Il is therefore necessary necessary to 10 gauge the proper proper rate of temperature-raising ture-raising to avoid avoid offering offenng guests overheated overheated wine. wine. The process process must must be be slow. slow. A A bottle bottle of wine wine should should never be be plunged into hot hot water or left near near a fire or radiator radiator to hasten hasten

Marne and Aube, Aube, has a world-wide reputation reputation for its great great sparkling sparkling white wines. wines. The The cooking cooking in the province province is rather ralher limited limited but excellent. excellent. The The local local charcuterie is is in in the the first first rank rank of gastronomic gastronomie specialities, especially the the delicious deiicious andouilleues andouillettes of Barsur-Aube sur-Aube and and Bar-sur-Seine; the the andouillettes andouillelles de de mouton mouton and the langues langues fourries fourrées of of Troyes; Troyes; the the famouspigJ' famous pigs' trotters IrOllerS d à la la Sainte-Menehould: Sainte-Menehould; Reims Reims hams hams and and knuckles: knuckles; and many other dishes. Meat, particularly parlicularly mutton, is good, and poultry pouJtry is fairly good. good. Fruit fruit and and vegetables vegetables are are excellent. Freshwater freshwater fish include trout, trout, carp, carp, pike pike and and salmon. salmon. Good Good furred furred and feathered game game is to be be found, and the the Ardennes thrushes thrushes are especially prized prized by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. Culinary Culinary specialities specililities -- Among the dishes of Champagne Champagne are matelotes matelotes (q.v.), (g.v.), using using champagne champagne;; la la potCe potée champenoise; champenoise; quartier de de mouton d à la la champenoise; champenoise; boudin de de lapin d à la Sainte-Menehould; thrushes th rushes dà I'ardennaise, l'ardennaise, poulet poulet d à la peau peau de goret; goret; gougire gougère de I'Aube; l'Aube; salade dc de pissenlit pissenlit an au lard; and,

0

the process. process.

CHAMOIS -- Wild Wlid mammal, mammal, bearing bearing some resemblance resemblance to the goat, goal, found found in i.n the high Alps and in the Pyrenees, Pyrenees, where where itit is called ealled Isard. Isard. Chamois meat is considered considered excellent venison, especially especially when wben the animal is young. young. It It is tS tougher lougher when the chamois chamois is older, and should be he properly marinated marinated before before cooking. cooking. It It is is prepared prepared in the same way as roebuck roebuck (q.v.). CHAMPAGNE CHAlVlPAGNE -- This This province, province, which which comprises comprises approxiapproximately malely the four dipartements départements of Marne, Ardennes, HauteHaute-

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199 199

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Trout. Pork lgrchery

l' :,.'"'"'' t' --t4..;Ki ftn"*.1€"i,ff,:i\ ;:[.J*1, rri1i"",iJ'". ,i,o.o,oon,. ',:'1* J,'\,r
CHICKEN CHICKEN (see SAUCE), Pottr Suprême Suprdme sauce sauce (see SAUCE), made made with with mushroom mushroom Pour essence, over over the the chicken. chicken. essence, pouLARDE (Cr6ole cookery). Chicken with with rice rice ài la la Bourbon Bourbon (Créole cookery). POULARDE Chlcken AU RIZ RIz ÀA LA rA BOURBON souRsoN -- Lightly Lightly brown brown aa chicken chicken in in fat. fat. Add Add aa AU finely chopped chopped cooked cooked on onion, carrots, bunch of of herbs, herbs, ion, 22 car rots, aa bunch finely pepper and salt, pepper and 1I tablespoon pur6e. Add tablespoon tomato tomato purée. Add stock stock and and salt, cook on on very very slow slow heat heat for for about about It l| hours. hours. Boil Boil down down the the cook liquid. liquid. Scald, drain, drain, and and cook cook rice rice in in chicken chicken stock. When soft, stock. When soft, Scald, place the arrange on on aa dish dish and and place pieces round chicken pieces the chicken round it. it. arrange pour over Strain the the stock stock and and pour over the dish. Decorate Decorate with with slices the dish. slices Strain of carrot. carrot. of Chicken and and rice rice with with suprême suprOme sauce. sauce. POULARDE IoULARDE AU AU RIZ Rrz Chlcken supn0l,s -- Half Half cook sAUcE SUPRÊME cook aa chicken, chicken, trussed trussed as as for for boiling SAUCE boiling and covered covered with with bacon fat. inin white bacon fat, white stock. stock. When When halfhalfand cooked, drain drain the Put the the bird. bird. Put the stock stock through through aa fine fine strainer cooked, strainer and replace the pot. Add (9 oz., chicken in g. (9 in the the chicken the pot. 250 g. Add 250 oz.,lJ cups) li cups) and blanched and and drained drained rice, (3 rice, stock, stock, and and 22 tablespoons blanched tablespoons (3 tablespoons) butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking cooking ail all together, tablespoons) together, over over slow slow heat. part of Using part cooking liquor liquor prepare prepare aa Suprême of the the cooking sauce SuprAme sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see chicken with with ririce, Flank the chicken ce, and and serve with suprême suprAme sauce seuce serve with and the chicken broth. the chicken broth. and

An Anold-fashioned old-fashioned spit spitfor forchickens chickens (Grün) Griin\

Surround ions cooked Surround with with carrots carrots and and on onions cooked in in the chicken the chicken broth. broth. poULARDE ROSIÈRE Chlcken a chicken RosiCre. POULARDE Chicken Rosière. RosriRE -- Stuff Stuffa chicken with with Chickenforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Chickenforcemeat with with cream uearn (see FORCEMEAT). Truss Truss it, it, laying laying the flat against feet fiat the feet against the the sides. Rub itit ail all over sides. Rub with over with lemon juice and lemon juice and wrap wrap itit entirely entirely in in bards bards of of bacon bacon fat. fat. Line Line the the bottom bottom of of aa casserole casserole with with strips fresh bacon rinds, strips of of fresh bacon rinds, rounds carrot and ion and herbs. Place rounds of ofcarrot and on onion and aa bunch bunch of ofherbs. Place the the chicken ver the chicken on on top and add add sufficient top and sufficient veal veal stock stock to to co cover the chicken. chicken. Simmer Simmer with with the lid on the lid on for for about about 50 50 minutes. minutes. Blanch, Blanch, trim press under and press trim and under aa weight weight for for 30 30 minutes minutes 33 calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, having having removed removed ail all membranes. membranes. About About 35 35 minutes minutes before before serving, serving, eut cut the the sweetbreads in slices cm. sweetbreads in slices1I cm. (t(| inch) just coyer inch) thick, put in pan, just thick, put in aa pan, cover with with white white veal veal stock, stock, add piece of add aa piece of butter butter and and simmer. simmer.

Roasting chickens, Roasting chickens, Angers (French (French Government Government Tourisi Tourist Office) Ofice)

chlcken. poULARDE POULARDE ndrn RÔTIE - Truss the Roast chicken. the chicken chicken and and season inside and and outside. Coyer season Cover the breast breast with with aa thin thin slice slice

-

of bacon fat, and roast roast in the the oven oyen or the spit. ofbacon cooking or on on the spit. For cooking see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking times, see cooking limes times for roasts. for Serve with the the cooking cooking juices, and watercress. Serve and watercress. Roast chicken chlcken irà I'anglaiss. l'anglaise. poULARDE POULARDE RÔTIE À L'ANGLAISERoast n6rre A L'ANGLATsE Roast the chicken in the usual way. Surround Surround with with slices slices of of grilJed sausages, sausages, and serve serve with Bread sauce bacon or grilled (see with Bread sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Roast chicken chicken d à I'anglaise l'anglaise may may also also be be prepared in Roast in the the Roast turkey turkey ità I'anglaise l'anglaise (see (see TURKEY). same way as as Roast same TURKEY). Chlcken with with rock rock (coarse) (coarse) salt salt. powl.RDE POULARDE AU AU GROS Chicken cRos SEL sEL -Poach the the chicken in in white white stock. stock. Serve with its its strained Poach Serve with strained and rock rock (coarse) salt. salt. cooking liquor Iiquor and cooking

Roast chicken (A.B.e.) Roast chicken (A.B.C.)

230 230

CHICKEN CHICKEN

t

white white stock stock or or broth, broth, the the sauce sauce may may be he thickened thickened with with aa little liUle butter butter and and flour flour worked worked together. together. The The same same applies applies to to dà blanc blanc chicken chicken saut6s. sautés.

Prepare Prepare f litre litre (1| (I! pints, pints, lfIl pints) pints) fresh fresh Mushroom Mushroom purie (see (see MUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS). Add Add 22 dl. dl. (] (1 pint, pint, scant seant cup) fresh cream to to bring bring itie to to the the consistency consistency of of an an ordinary ordinary sauce, sauce, and and cream mix into into itil 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) oz.) mushrooms mushrooms chopped and and cooked. cooked. mix

Sautied Sautéed chicken cruckco Alexandra. Alexandra. PoULET POULET SAUTE SAUTÉ ALExANDRA ALEXANDRA

--

Saut6 Sau té the the chicken chicken in in butter butter dà blanc. blanc. Dilute Dil Ule the Ihe cooking cooking juices juices with dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, scant seant +t cup) cup) white white stock stock and and boil bail with I1 dl. down. down. Stir Stir in in 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant 1: cup) cup) chicken chicken Velouti Veloute sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), add add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tabletablespoons) spoons) Soubise Soubise purie purée (see (sec PUREE), PURÉE), 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream cream and and 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,t oz., 1cup) cup) butter. butter. Strain Strain the the

Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove rem ove the the barding and and trussing Drain and surround surround with with the the slices slices of sweetbread. Coat Coat the strings and chicken and the sauce and the the garnish gamish with wÎth some sorne of orthe sauce and and serve serve the the

I

rest separately. separately. rest

la Rossini. Rossini. poULARDE POULARDE A À r,c, LA nosslNl ROSS1NT -- Cook Cook the the Chicken. Ià la Chicken ehicken, covered, covered, in in butter butter in in the the oven. oyen. Set Set itit on on aa dish dish and and chicken, surround itil with with slices slices of/ore of foie gras gras tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Placn Place 22 surround slices of of trufre lruffle heated heated in in butter butter on on each each slice slice of offoie foie gras. gras. slices

*

sauce. sauce.

Sautded Sautéed chicken ch.ickcn aa I'algSrienne. l'algérienne. PouLET POULET seurf SAUTÉ A À L'arc6ruL'ALGÉRIthe the chicken chicken in in oil oil dil brun. brull. When When half-cooked, half-cooked, add add I1 tablespoon tahlespoon chopped chopped onion. onion. Take Take out out the the chicken; chicken; put in in the the pan pan aa crushed crushed garlic garlic clove clove and 2 peeled, peeled, drained and chopped tomatoes; lomatoes; cook cook for for 88

Pour over over the the chicken chicken its cooking cooking juices diluted dilutoo with w:îth Pour Madeira and and truffie-flavoured truffle-fiavoured Rich Rich brown sauce sauce (see (see Madeira he placed placed in pastry pastry SAUCE). The slices of foie gras may be

-

ENNE ENNE - Saut6 Sauté

cases, or or on on slices slices ofbread fried in in butter. butter. cases. salado sluDE SALADE DE DE voLAILLE VOLA1LLE - Set Set sliced cooked Chicken salad.

minutes, minutes, stirring. stirring. Put Put back back the chicken chicken in in the the pan pan and and simmer 8 to to l0 JO minutes minutes without without boiling. boiling. When When serving the the chicken, chicken, garnish gamish with with 22 diced diced aubergines aUbel"gJllles saut6ed sautéed in in oil. Pour the the sauce over the the chicken ehicken and and sprinkle with wilh chopped parsley. parsley. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chickeo ambassadrice. ambassadrice. PouLEr POULET sAUTE SAUTÉ AMBAsAM BASSADRIcE Sauté the chicken and 8 mushrooms mushrooms in in butter butter dà SADR1CE - Saut6 brun. Dllute DiJute the pan pan juices juices with with + dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant scant IÀ cup) Madeira. Madeira. Boil Boil down the liquid and and pour pour in in l+ It dl. dl. (+ Hgrary. Cook at pint, pint,1J cup) eup) thickened thickened veal gravy. at boiling hoiling point point for for aa few moments. Garnish Gamish the cooked chicken with with 8 cocks' coeks' combs combs and and 88 stock,44 chicken livers cocks' kidneys kidneys cooked cookcd in light ligbt stock, livers saut6ed sautéed in butter, bUller, the mushrooms, and and 8 slices of of truffie. trume. Coat Coat with with the sauce. sauce. A s,c'urE À mode. PoULET Sautded Sautéed chicken chicken A fi I'ancienne l'ancienne mode. POULET SAUTÉ MoDE- Saut6 L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE MODESaute the the chicken cbicken in butterdblanc.Dilute butter à blanc. Dilute cup) white or the pan with with l| q dl. (t white stock stock or the juices in the pan $ pint,3t eup) stir stock. boil mushroom stock, boi1 down to two-thirds two-thirds of of its its volume, volume, stir (see SAUCE) sauce (sec SAUCE) Velouti sauce in U dl. ü in 1-1 dl. $ pint, 3i cup) chicken Velouté (2 oz., and g. (2 oz., t{ cup) butter, and 50 g. and boil and hoil for 5 minutes. Add Add 50 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped truffies tablespoons (3 strain. Add 2 tahlespoons strain. port. (6 tahlespoons, cup) port. scantIt cup) and 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, seant and garnish with rosettes with rosettes and garnish sauce and Coat the chicken with the sauce of puff pastry. ANNETTE -- Sauté Saut6 PouLET SAUTE slur6 ANNETTE Annette. POULET chicken Aooette. Saut6ed chickell juices with with white white pan juices Dilute Ihe the pan in hutter butter àd brun. Dilute the chicken in and liquid, and Boil down down the the liquid, add 1I chopped shallot. Boil and add wine and for aa brown grary. Boil pint, 3 eup) cup) Ihickened thickened brown add 1l|~ dl. dl. Ct add Boil for $ pint, few moments. moments. Add tI tablespoon chopped parsley, chervil few lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of lemon squeeze of and tarragon, tarragon, aa squeeze and fresh butter. fresh (see potatoes (see Annette po/aioes of Annelle in aa crust crust of chicken in Set tbe the ehicken Set sauce. with the sauce. Coat wi POTATOES). Coat th the potatoes with straw potatoes is is made made with straw potatoes The crust crust of Annette potatoes The dish with aa small potatoes, hut small dish but with Anna pOlatoes, like Anna in butter cooked in butter like cooked cake. hollow cake. form aa hollow potatoes 10 to form put in the middle of of the potaloes put ARcHIDUc -PoULET SAUTÉ sA,ur6 ARCHIDUC Archduke. POULET chickm Archdllke. Saut6ed chicken Sautéed cooked half cooked When itit isis half blanc. When in butter butter àit blanc. chicken in Saut6 the the chieken Sauté lightly (3 tablespoons) onion lightly chopped onion tablespoons) chopped tablespoons (J add 22 tahlespoons add paprika. pinch of of paprika. and aa pinch in bUller, cooked in butter, and cooked (6 tabJespoons, juices with scant tablespoons, scant with 1I cU. dl. (6 Dilute the cooking juices the eooking Dilute (+ pinl, pint, tJ cup) cup) pour in in 11 l+ dl. dl. (a down, pour wine, boil boil down, cup) white white wine, 11 cup) g.(2 cup) oz., !* cup) Add 50 50 g. moments. Add for aa few few moments. and boil boil for cream and cream (2 OZ., juice to and sl'rain. st'rain' sauce and the sauce lemon juice to the of lemon and aa squeeze squeeze of butter and butter and in ehunks chunks and cut in cucumbers CUI with cucumbers chicken with Garnish the the chieken Gamish with the the sauce. sauce. Coat with in butter. butter. Coat simmered in simmered

-

shredded lettuce, lettuce, sprinkle sprinkle with chicken on a foundation of shredded Vinaigre/le sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE) and and garnish gamish with with lettuce leltuce Vinaigrette hearts and quartered hard-boiled eggs. hearts Saureoo chicken. pour,Ers POULETS sAUTEs SAUTÉS -- Small Small tender tender fowls, Saut6ed welghing from 900 to 1800 1800 g. (2 to 4 lb.) lh.) are more mOrc suited to weighing this way way than than fat fowls and capons. The The chicken being cooked this he saut6ed sautéed rapidly rapidly in butter, butter, in in oil oil or or in fat, but hut should shouJd should be juices. he allowed to ta boil boil in its itsjuices. not b€ To cut eut up the chicken for cooking, divide it into ioto joints. joints. Cut away the leg at its thickest part, having cut through through the joint. Heating the feet makes them easier to lo skin. Spring chickens are sim ply divided into ioto halves, which whÎch are simply lightly flattened. flaltened. lightly ofchicken To sauté pieces of chicken and put them (hem in sauti àd blanc. Season Season pieces a heated butter. butter. Saut6 Sauté the the pieces without without allowing a!!owing a pan of heated at moderate heat. hrown. Cover Coyer the lhe pan and cook al them to brown. Pour off the Take out Oul the the wings and tirs\. pour the butter, Take and breasts first. juice or white stock, mushroom juice dilute the the pan juices with with white cream, and add a sauce. Garnish. (scant i cup) butter or sauti ilit brull. brun. Heat 3 lablespoons tablespoons (seant! To sauré add seasoned seasoned pieces of chicken. Brown well oil in a pan pan and add and cook over a low heat. After 6 or 8 cover, and on bOlh both sides, sides, cover, and the of breast, breast, and the pieces of minutes, lake take out out the the wings and most delieate, delicate, are being the mûst keep them them warm. warrn. (These parts, heing for cooked the soonest.) Leave the legs and carcases to cook for 8 to 12 minutes, according to sizc. size. to 12 cooking fat, pieces of ehicken, chicken, remove remove the the cooking Take out out the the pieces juices wilh in the recipe -- wine, with the liquid specified in dilute the juiees juices, etc. and Boil down this liquor liquor by by half and etc. Boil stock or meat jUlces, add add aa sauce. sauce. pan, coyer keep cover and and keep pieces of chicken in in the pan, of crucken Put Put back back the the pieces Garnish. warm, wann, but but avoid avoid boiling. Gamish. and cook cook the the pieces To sauté sauti àit bnm la minagire. Brown and Ta brun àd la Add 1I tahletableTake [hem out of of the pan. Add chicken as as ahove. above. Take them out of of chicken pan and colour and allow allow to to colour liquor in in the the pan spoon flour to spoon f10ur to the the liquor and liquid. Boil Boil down down and wine or other liquid. slightly. th wine Dilute wi with or other slightly. Dilute (+ pint, or pint, scant consomm6 or cup) white white stock, stock, consommé then add 22 dL dl. (1 scant cup) then add 15 minutes, with aa wooden wooden 12 to minutes, stining stirring with water. Cook Cook for for 12 to 15 water. spoon, and strain. spoon, and strain. pan, pour the pieces or in the the chicken in the covered covered pan, Replace the of ehicken the pieces avoid boiling. warm, but but avoid sauce sauce over over and and keep keep warm, saut6ed garnishes for chicken include saUléed for sautéed saut6ed chîcken The The many many gamishes pieces of glazd carroIs, celeriac, brussels brussels of celeriac, carrots, smaU small pieces aubergines, aubergines, glazed (zucchinis), marrows (zucchinis), sprouts in in butter, cucumbers, baby baby marrows sprouts butter, cucumbers, glazed onions, noodles, cream, small onions, noodles, in butter or cream, small glazed sweetcom butter or sweetcorn in macaroni, macaroni, riee, rice, etc. etc. pan juices of of the the the diluted diluted pan follow, the In In the which follow, the recipes which as added to to them, such such as have sauces chicken chicken saut6es should sauces added should have (demi-glace) sauce (demi-glace) Rich brown brown sauce stock or or Rich thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock (see SAUCE). added to to them. them. sauce can can he be added Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). Tomato and preparations are with wine wine and are diluted diluted with When When the the sauté saut6 preparations

ARcHIsnurf ARCH1PoULE-t SAUTÉ Archduke Salvator. Salvator. POULET chicken Archduke Sautffi chicken Sautéed Archduke. chickm Archduke. as for for Sautéed Sautied chicken Prepare as - Prepare garnish (see GALETTE) and garnjsh galette (see GALETTE) and Potato galelle Set itit on on aa POlala Set and mushrooms and butter, sautéed saut6ed mushrooms in hutter, simmered in cucumbers simmered with cucumbers with

DUc SALVATOR sALvATon DUC

of truffle. trufle. slices of sUces 23r 231

CHICKEN CHICKEN There are are numerous numerous ways ways of of cooking Chicken Chicken Arch&tke. Archduke. The basic basic recipe recipe is is saut6ed sautéed chicken chicken to to which which has has been been added added onion on ion and and cream. cream. The method method of of diluting diluting the the juices juices may be be varied varied by by using using brandy brandy or or Madeira, Madeira, the sauce finished off with cucumbers, with whisky whisky or or port, port, the the garnish garnish composed of cucumbers, mushrooms, mushrooms, quartered quartered artichokes artichokes or or truffies. truffles. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with artichokes. artichokes. pouLET POULET slur6 SAUTÉ lux AUX ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken in in butter butter dà brun. brun. When When itit is is half-cooked, half-cooked, add add 12 12 quarters quarters of of well weil blanched blanched artichokes. artichokes. Finish Finish cooking cooking all all these these together. together. Take Take out out the the chicken chicken and and artichokes. artichokes. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant +1cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil boil down, down, pour pour in in 1+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, Jt cup) cup) thickened thickened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy. Set Set the the chicken chicken on on a dish, dish, garnish garnish with with the the quarters quarters of artichokes, artichokes, and and coat coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. The The chicken chicken may may also also be be garnished garnished with with artichoke artichoke bases, bases, cooked cooked in in aa flour-and-water fiour-and-water court-bouillon, court-bouillon, sliced sliced and and saut6ed sautéed with with the the chicken. chicken. Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken with with basil. basil. pouI"E-r POULET slur6 SAUTÉ AU AU BAsrLrc BASILIC -juices Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter, butter, browning browning it. it. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with with 22 dl. dl. ({ (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine wine and and add add I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped basil. basil. Boil Boil down down the the liquid liquid by by half. half. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., juice. cup) butter; butter; mix mix well. weIl. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with this thisjuice. *t cup) Sautded Sautéed chicken chicken Ià la la biarrotte. biarrotte. pouLEr POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À r.l LA srA,nBIARRorrE ROTTE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in oil oil dà brun. brun. juices with Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with white white wine, wine, boil boil down, down, and and pour pour in in I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *1 cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add aa crushed crushed clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) cipes cèpes (q.v.) (q.v.) saut6ed sautéed in in oil, oil, 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) diced diced potatoes potatoes saut6ed sautéed in in oil, oil, aa peeled, peeled, diced diced and and saut6ed sautéed aubergine aubergine and and aa medium-sized medium-sized onion onion cut cut in in rings rings and and fried. fried. Arrange Arrange in in separate separate groups groups round round the the chicken. chicken. Sauteed Sautéed chicken chicken ià la la boh6mienne. bohémienne. pournr POULET s.lurf SAUTÉ A À ul LA BoHEMTENNE BOHÉMIENNE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken, chicken, seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, in in oil oil dà brun. brun. When When itit is is half-cooked, half-cooked, add add 44 sweet sweet pimentos pimentos peeled peeled and and cut cut in in large large strips, strips, 22 tomatoes tomatoes peeled peeled and and cut cut in in thick cut in in small small dice dice and and thick slices, slices, aa medium-sized medium-sized onion on ion cut blanched, blanched, aa crushed crushed clove clove ofgarlic of garlic and and aa teaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped fennel. fenne!. Dilute add +1 dl. dl. (3 (3 tabletableDilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add spoons, spoons, scant scant +t cup) cup) thickened thickened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, and and finish finish with with aa squeeze squeeze of oflemon lemon juice. juice. Set Setthe thechicken chicken on onaadish, dish, coat coatwith with the thesauce sauce and and serve servewith with Rice RicedàI'indienne l'indienne (see (see RICE). RICE). Saut6ed Saotéed chicken chicken Boivin Boivin (Mont-Bry's (Mont-Bry's recipe). recipe). pouI,Er POULET slurE chicken lightly SAUTÉ BorvrN BOIVIN -- 'Cook 'Cook aa jointed jointedchicken lightly in in butter, butter, browning browning aa little little on on both both sides. sides. When When the the pieces pieces are are lightly lightly browned, browned, put put in in the the pan pan 24 24 small small onions onions that that have have been been tossed tossed in in butter, butter, 12 12 quarters quarters of of small small blanched blanched artichokes, artichokes, and and 24 24 small small new new potatoes potatoes of of uniform uniforro size size and and shape. shape. Season. Season. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, on on aa gentle gentle heat. heat. 'Drain 'Drain the the pieces pieces of of chicken. chicken. Set Set them them on on aa dish dish and and arrange arrange the the garnish garnish of of onions, on ions, artichokes artichokes and and potatoes potatoes juices diluted round roundthem. them. Pour Pourover overthe the chicken chickenthe thecooking cookingjuices diluted with pot-au-feu btoth, broth, with with the the addition addition of of22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 withpot-au-fat tablespoons) tablespoons)dissolved dissolved meat meat glaze, glaze, sharpened sharpened with with aa squeeze squeeze oflemon lemonjuice, juice, and and with with butter butter added.' added.' of Sauteed Sautéed chicken chicken ià la la bordelaise. bordelaise. pourpr POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À re LA BoRDELAISEBORDELAlSE - Saut6 Sautéthe thechicken chickenininaamixture mixture of ofoil oil and and butter. butter. Finish Finish as as in in the the recipe recipe for for Sautied Sautéed chickm chicken with with white white wine wine (see (seebelow). below).Add Add to tothe thesauce sauce I1tablespoon tablespoon Tomato Tomato sauce sauce(see (see SAUCE) and and aa crushed crushed clove clove of ofgarlic. garlic. SAUCE) Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) sliced sliced potatoes potatoes sautéed in in butter, butter, 22blanched blanched artichokes artichokes cut cut in in quarters quarters and and saut6d cookedinin butter, butter, several several sprigs sprigsfried fried parsley, parsley, and2 and 2mediummediumcooked sized onions onions cut cut in in rings rings and and fried. fried. Coat Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. sized

Sautée
Sautéed chicken ià la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. pouLET POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À r.l LA Sauteed BouRcuIGNoNNs BOURGUIGNONNE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken in butter butter dà brun. When three-quarters cooked add 12 12 small glazed glazed onions, 12 12 mushthree-quarters rooms lightly lightly cooked in butter butter and 22 slices blanched, diced diced rooms lean bacon bacon lightly lightly fried fried in butter. butter. lean Take out out the the chicken chicken and its its accompaniments. Dilute Dilute the the Take pan pan juices juices with with 22 dl. (] (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) red red wine and add a crushed clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Boil Boil down down to to two-thirds, two-thirds, add add l] 11 dl. crushed pint, 3 t cup) cup) Rich Rich brown brown sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), cook cook at $(t pint, boiling point point for for aa few few moments, moments, and and strain. strain. boiling Surround the the chicken chicken with with the the garnish, garnish, and coat coat with with the the Surround sauce. Heart-shaped Heart-shaped crottons croûtonsfried in butter butter may may be be added. added. sauce. fried in Sautéed chicken chicken Ià la la bourguignonne bourguignonne or or en en matelote. matelote. pouLET POULET Saut6ed SAUTÉ A À r,c, LA souncurcNoNNE, BOURGUIGNONNE, EN EN MATELoTE MATELOTE slurf -

in butter butter Fry in

slices blanched blanched lean lean bacon bacon cut cut in in big big dice. dice. Add Add 12 12 blanched blanched 22 slices small onions, onions, cook cook till till golden, golden, and and add add 12 12 small small mushrooms. mushrooms. small Remove these these ingredients, ingredients, which which form forro the the garnish, garnish, and Remove brown quickly quickly pieces pieces of of chicken chicken in in the the same same fat. fat. When When they they brown are half-cooked, half-cooked, put put the the garnish garnish back back in in the the pan, pan, cover,and cover, -and are cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. cook Take out out the the chicken chicken and and the the garnish. garnish. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices Take (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) red red wine, wine, boil boil down down to to half, half, and and with 22 dl. d!. $ with thicken with with I1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter mixed mixed with with aa little little flour. fiour. thicken Strain. Strain. Surround the the chicken chic ken pieces pieces with with the the garnish garnish and and pour pour the the Surround sauce over. over. sauce Sautéed chicken chicken in in butter butter or or ià la la minute. minute. pouLET POULET slurE SAUTÉ lu AU Saut6ed BEURRE, AÀ r,c, LA MTNUTE MINUTE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter ità brun. brun. BEURRE, To serve, serve, squeeze squeeze lemon lemon juice juice over, over, pour pour on on the the very very hot hot To cooking butter, butter, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. cooking Sautéed chicken chicken with with cOpcs cèpes I. 1. pournr POULET s,c,ur6 SAUTÉ lux AUX ciprs CÈPES Saut6ed Sauté the the chicken chicken in in oil oil or or in in aa mixture mixture of of oil oil and and butter. butter. Saut6 When itit is is three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, add add 300 300 g. g. (ll (II oz.) oz.) white white When cèpes (q.v.) (q.v.) which which have have been been cut cut into into thick thick slices slices and and saut6ed sautéed cipes in oil. oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped onion. onion. in juices with Drain the thechicken chicken and, and cCpes. cèpes. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with I1dl. dl. Drain (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *1cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil boil down down and and add add 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., It cup) cup) butter. butter. 50 Gamish the the chicken chicken with with the the cipes, cèpes, coat with with the the juice, juice, Garnish chopped parsley. parsley. A A crushed crushed clove clove of of and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped and garIic may may be be added. added. garlic Sautéed chicken chicken with with cdpes cèpes II. n. pourer POULET slurf SAUTÉ AUx AUX ciprs CÈPES Saut6ed Prepare the the chicken chicken as as for for Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken with with white white wine wine Prepare (see below). below). Garnish Garnish with with Clpes Cèpes dà la la bordelare bordelaise (see (see MUSHMUSH(see ROOMS). Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped ROOMS). parsley. parsley. 232 232

CHICKEN CHICKEN and Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with buttered buttered French French beans, beans, and in truffies truffies which which have have been been cut cut in in thick thick strips strips and and heated heated in sherry. Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. sherry. Coat slur6 Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken fermi0re fernùère or or Ià la la paysanne. paysanne. PouLET POULET SA uTÉ plvslNrrrs rrnMrins, FERMIÈRE, AÀ rlc, LA PAYSANNE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken as as above. above. Add Add (see l+ It dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, J t oup) cup) Vegetable Vegetable fon&te fondue (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Finish Finish cooking cooking together. together. Set Set the the chicken chîcken and and vegetables vegetables in in an an earthenware earthenware dish dish or or casserole, casserole, add add 22 tablespoons tablespoons diced diced lean lean ham ham and and simmer, simmer, covered, covered, in in the the oven. oyen. (* pint, cup) juices with 1| Dilute Dilute the the cooking cooking juices with It dl. dl. (t pint, It cup)

thickened thickened veal veal gravy gravy and and sprinkle sprinkle over over the the dish. dish. pourrr lux chickm aux Saut6ed Sautéedchicken aux fines fines herbes herbes I. J. POULET slurf SAUTÉ AUX brun. d in butter FrNEs FINFS HERBEs. HERBES. Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in butter à brun. wine, Dilute Dilute the tbe pan pan juices juices with with lf li dt. dl. 6r pint, pin t, t cup) cup) white white wine, (+ pint, l+ dl. and add Boil down shallot. a chopped add add a chopped shallot. Boil down and add It dl. (t pint, t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. and tarraAdd Add *t tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and tarrajuice, gon, gon, aa squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice, and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon fresh fresh butter. butter. chicken. When to serve, When ready ready·to serve, pour pour this this sauce sauce over over the the chicken. snurf lux II. pournr fines herbes Sautff Sautéed chicken chic ken atx aux fines herbes II. POULET SAUTÉ AUX put on dish. on aa dish. and put as above, above, and chicken as FrNEs FINFS HERBEsHERBES - Saut6 Sauté the the chicken (3 tablespoons, scant t+ dl. (3 tablespoons, scant cooking juices Dilute Dilute the the cooking juices with with tI dl. and t tablespoon tablespoon shallot and chopped shallot wine. Add cup) cup) white white wine. Add aa chopped away Draw away and tarragon. tarragon. Draw chervil and chopped parsley, finely finely chopped parsley, chervil squeeze and aa squeeze g. (2 butter and cup) butter oz., tI cup) 50 g. add 50 and add from Q oz., from the the heat heat and lemon. of lemon. of PoULET SAUTÉ slurf ÀA LA la Oorentine. florentine. POULET chicken à la Sautded chicken Sautéed various with various chicken with for Sautéed Sautied chicken as for Proceed as FLoRENTINE - Proceed FLORENTINE (see RICE) Risotto (see of Risotto in aa border border of chicken in Set the wines. Set the chicken wines. RICE) (3 tablespoons) truffies. chopped truffies. tablespoons) chopped with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 mixed with mixed boiled down. down. well boiled been weil has been which has with the sauce. which Coat with the sauce, Coat pourEr SAUTÉ snurt ÀA LA forestiire. POULET la forestière. chicken Saut6ed chic Sautéed ken à la with mushmushchicken with for Sautéed Sautted chicken Proceed as as for ronrsrdns - Proceed FORESTIÈRE (5 oz.) g. (5 150 g. by 150 (see below). mushrooms by the mushrooms Replace the below). Replace rooms (see rooms oz.) potatoes sau(5 oz.) saug. (5 diced potatoes oz.) diced 150 g. in butter, butter, ISO saut6ed in morels sautéed morels (4 oz.) cardoons. g. (4 small blanched blanched cardoons. oz.) small 100 g. and 100 in butter butter and t6ed in téed AUx JETS JErs slur6 AUX PouLET SAUTÉ hop shoots. shoots POULET with hop chicken with Sautded chicken Sautéed Dilute the the brun. Dilute in butter butter àd brun. chicken Saut6 the the chic HouBLoN -- Sauté DE HOUBLON DE ken in and add add thickened thickened juices with down and wine, boil boil down with white white wine, pan juices pan (11 oz.) 300 g.g. (II with 300 chicken with gravy. Garnish Garnish the the chicken veal gravy. brown veal brown oz.) in butter. butter. cooked in hop shoots shoots cooked hop pourE'r slur6 I. in cream shoots hop shoots in cream I. POULET SAUTÉ with hop chicken with Saut6ed chicken Sautéed as for chicken as the chicken Prepare the ctitvm -- Prepare rl CRÈME HouBLoN ÀA LA DE HOUBLON Aux JETS JETS DE AUX for in garnish hop shoots with and cream, with chickm Sautded Sautéed chicken with cream, and garnish with hop shoots in cream. cream. poursr s,lur6 II. POULET in cream cream ll. shoots in hopshoots with hop chicken with Saut6ed chicken Sautéed SAUTÉ chicken inin the chicken Cook the cntrr,rr - Cook r.n CRÈME HouBLoN ÀA LA DE HOUBLON AUx JETS JETs DE AUX into flour into Put 1I tablespoon tablespoonflour pan. Put of the the pan. out of and take take itit out butter and butter colour. tocolour. allowing itit to without allowing cook without and cook butter and cooking butter the cooking the or whitestock stock or cup) white scant t1 cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (6(6 tablespoons, Stir inin 1 dl. Stir tablespoons add33tablespoons andadd one-third and byone-third down by Boil down consomm6. Boil consommé. above. (scant tt cup) Garnish asasabove. cream.Garnish cup)cream. (scant I'ntoIENNE slurf ÀAL'INDIENNEPouLETSAUTÉ I'indienne J.I.POULET chicken Saut6ed chic Sautéed ken ài l'indienne chopped largechopped Add1Ilarge oildblanc. oroil butteror chicken inin butter Saut6 the thechicken Sauté à blanc. Add pieces thepieces powder. As Assoon soonasasthe curry powder. tablespoon curry and1I tablespoon onion and onion flour. tablespoon flour. over them them1I tablespoon sprinkle over arefirm, firm,sprinkle chicken are of chicken of pint' pour inin22dl. dl.(t(| pint, and pour stirring,and moments, stirring, foraafew fewmoments, Cookfor Cook with garniand andcook cookwith bouquetgarni Addaabouquet whitestock. stock. Add cup)white scant cup) scant pancovered. covered. thepan the boiledtheboiledwiththe coatwith andcoat timbale and chickenininaatimbale Setthe thechicken Set juice has Serve added.Serve beenadded. hasbeen lemonjuice whichlemon down sauce, sauce, totowhich down (seeRICE). RICE). Riceàit/'indienne I'indienne (see with Rice with pourrr SAUTÉ L'INprENNs slur6ÀAL'INDIENNE II.POULET I'indienne II. chickenàil'indienne Saut6ed chicken Sautéed putititinto intoa a piecesand andput intosmall smallpieces chicken into Cutup upthe thechicken - Cut diced oz.)diced 100g.g'(4(aoz.) onion,100 chopped onion, largechopped which1Ilarge casserole ininwhich casserole been alreadybeen havealready applehave gratedeating eatingapple largegrated and1 large hamand harn bay (withoil sprigofthyme, of thyme,a abay Adda asprig lard)'Add oilororlard). butter(with heatedininbutter heated

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Sauteed Sa utéed chicken chicken chasseur chasseur

Sautéed chicken chicken chasseur. chasseur. PouLEt POULET sAUTE SAUTÉ cHAssEUR CHASSEUR - Saut6 Sauté Saut6ed of oil and butter. When it it is threethreethe chicken in a mixture of mushrooms. quarters cooked, add 125 g. (4 oz.) sliced mushrooms. scant *t cup) Dilute the pan pan juices juices with I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, ta blespoons, scant cup) shallot, boil Add aa chopped shallot, boil down, down, add add It dl. dl. white wine. Add (| (t pint, pint, 3 t cup) thickened veal gravy and It dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, for aa few (see SAUCE). Boil sauce (see scant Boil for few Tomato sauce cup) Tomato scint t cup) finely and 1I tablespoon finely add I1 tablespoon brandy and moments, add parsley, chervil and tarragon. chopped parsley, chopped with chopped Coat the chicken chicken with the sauce and sprinkle with parsley. parsley. AUx sAUrE AUX PouLEr SAUTÉ chayotes. POULET with chayotes. Sautéed cNcken with Saut6ed chicken artichokes. chickm with artichokes. fot Sautéed Sautied chicken as for CHAYOTTES cHAYorrEs -- Proceed as custard or custard quarters of chayotes or Garnish the chicken with quarters the chicken sauce. the sauce. coat with the (q.v.) stewed and coat in butter, and marrows (q.v.) stewed in u' CRÈME cniun slur6 À LA PouLET SAUTÉ cream. POULET Sautéed ken with with cream. chicken Sautfed chic juices with pan juices with Dilute the the pan blanc. Dilute Sauté in butter àd blanc. chicken in Saut6 the chicken half. to half. Boil down down to generous cup) cream. Boil (scant tI pint, cup) cream. pint, generous 2t 2* dl. dl. (scant with the the chicken with the chicken Coat the (2 oz., Add g. (2 cup) butter. butter. Coat oz., t* cup) Add 50 50 g. or with 1I or thickened with be thickened may be sauce. The cooking juices may The diluted diluted cookingjuices (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see VeloutC sauce 22 tablespoons chicken Velouté tablespoons chicken See AU CURRIE cURRIE - See PouLEr SAUTÉ slurf AU Sautéed curry. POULET chicken curry. Saut€ed chicken I'indienne. below chicken àd l'indienne. SautCed chicken below Sautéed DEMIDoFF slur6 DEMIDOFF PouLET SAUTÉ Demidofr. POULET Sautéed chicken Demidoff. Sautfed chicken half-cooked When brun. Wh in butter butter àd brun. Sauté en itit isis half-cooked chicken in Saut6 the the chicken vegetables chopped vegetables pur6e of cooked chopped of cooked add t dl. pint, t3 cup), cup), purée dl. (t add 11| Q pint, àd la Demidoff. la Demidoff. and 1I tabletabletruffies and add 22 sliced sliced truffies At cooking add end of of cooking At the the end chicken the chicken Take out out the parsley leaves. leaves' Take spoon curly parsley blanched curly spoon blanched juices with tablespoons' with t* dl. dl. (3(3 tablespoons, pan juices and garnish, dilute the pan dilute the its garnish, and its pint' t3 cup) cup) l] dl. dl. (t add It and add down and scant Boil down cup) Madeira. Madeira. Boil scant t+ cup) Q pint, (seeSAUCE). Rich SAUCE). sauce (see Rich brown brown sauce with coat wi vegetables, with the vegeta To th the bles, coat th chicken wi the chicken cover the To serve, serve. coyer batter dipped inin batter onion dipped the garnish with of onion with slices slices of and garnish sauce and the sauce and fried. and fried. as Proceed as DURoc - - Proceed s,c,urE DUROC PouLEr SAUTÉ Sautéed Duroc. POULET chicken Duroc. Saut6ed chicken for chasseur. Sautied chicken chicken chasseur. for Sautéed peeledand and tomatoes peeled Garnish with 88 small small tomatoes chicken with Garnish the the chicken potatoes (5oz.) newpotatoes small new simmered 150g.g.(5 oz') small with 150 andwith butter, and in butter, simmered in chopped withchopped sprinklewith cooked withthe thesauce, sauce, sprinkle Coat with in butter. butter. Coat cooked in parsley. parsley. r'fcosPoULETSAUTÉ slurfiÀAL'ÉCOSSautéed l'6cossaise.POULET chicken à l'écossaise. SautH chicken SAISE browning it.it. butter, browning chickenininbutter, Saut6the sAIsE- -Sauté thechicken juiceswith scantt tablespoons, scant Dilute witht dl. dl.(3(3tablespoons, panjuices the pan Dilute the pint,tIcup) cup)thickened thickened cup) dl.(i(+pint, andadd add1tl+dl. Boildown downand cup)sherry. sherry. Boil add5050g.g. andadd brown moments, and fewmoments, gravy.Boil foraafew Boilfor vealgravy. brown veal (2(2oz., i cup) cup)butter. butter. oz.,l

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CHICKEN CHICKEN pinch of leaf,aapinch ofcardamom, cardamom, aapinch pinch of pinch of ofcinnamon, cinnamon, aapinch of leaf, mace and and 22crushed garlic. Sprinkle crushed cloves cloves of of garlic. Sprinkle in.4 in4 teaspoons teaspoons mace powder and curry powder and mix. mix. Add Add 22peeled peeled and and seeded seeded tomatoes. tomatoes. curry pint,scant Pour inin44dL dl. G:(* pint, scant 22cups) cups)cocoout coconut milk milk and andcook cook for for Pour 40 minutes. minutes. Add Add 1I dL dl. (6(6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant 1+ cup) cup) double double 40 juice of cream and and the the juice of 1I lemon. lemon. Serve Servewith with Rice Rice àd l'indienne I'indienne cream (see RICE). (see RICE). Each Indian Indian cook cook has has his his own own method method of preparing of preparing Each

pouLErSAUTÉ Saut6ed chicken chicken ài lala meunière. meuniire. POULET slurE ÀI LA rl Sautéed Proceed as asfor for Sautéed Sautied chicken chicken ininbUller, butter, adding adding - Proceed juice and parsley, lemon chopped parsley, lemon juice and 33 or or 44 tablespoons tablespoons veal veal chopped grary or (seeSA or Rich Rich brown brown sauce. sauce. (see SAUCE). gravy UCE). pouI,Er SAUTÉ Sauteed chic chicken Mireille. POULET sAUTf MIREILLE MTRETLLE - - Sauté Saut6 Sautéed ken Mireille. juices with thechicken chicken inin butter butter àd brun. brun. Dilute Dilute the pan juices the pan with 1I dL the dl. tablespoons, scant scant 1* cup) cup) white white wine; wine; boil boil down down and andstir (6(6 tablespoons, stir in 11 l] dl. pint, -13cup) dl.(i(| pint, cup) thickened thickened brown gravy and veal gravy brown veal and 1I dl. in dl. tablespoons, scant (see SAUCE). scant i* cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). (3(3 tablespoons, Boil for for aa few few moments. moments. Boil Garnish the (gourilos) in the chicken chicken with with 88 endive endive hearts hearts (gourilos) in Garnish cream and and 88 small small tomatoes, peeled, drained tomatoes, peeled, drained and and cooked in cooked in cream butter. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with the the sauce. sauce. butter. pouLET SAUTÉ Saut6ed chicken chicken Monselet. Monselet. POULET SAUTE MONSELET MoNSELET -- Sauté Sautéed Saut6 the chicken chicken in in butter butterdà brun. Drzn. When When itit is is three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, the add 22 artichoke artichoke bottoms, bottoms, blanched blanched and and cut cut in in slices, and, slices, and, add when completely completely cooked, cooked, 22 medium-sized medium-sized sliced sliced truffies. truffies. when Take out out the chicken and the chicken and its its accompaniments, accompaniments, dilute dilute the pan the pan Take juices with (6 tablespoons, with 1I dL dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant J+ cup) cup) white white wine wine and and juices ({ pint, boil down. down. Add Add 11 l+ dl. pint,3-1 cup) dl. (i cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal boil gravy, and and boil boil for for aa few few moments. moments. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with gravy, the artichokes artichokes and and truffies truffies and and coat with the coat with the sauce. sauce. the pouLET Saut6ed chicken chicken with with morels morels and and other other mushrooms. POULET Sautéed slurf AUX AUx MORILLES MoRrLLrs -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Sautéed Saut1ed chicken SAUTÉ chicken with with (see below), mushrooms (see below), replacing replacing the g. latter with the latter with 300 300 g. mushrooms (11 oz.) (or an oz.) morels morels (or an equivalent equivalent quantity of other other mush(II mushrooms). rooms). ltsuNriREMEUNIÈRE

curries of mutton, lamb, lamb, chicken, of mutton, chicken, fish, fish, etc. The basic etc. The basic curries principle, the curry seasoning, the curry seasoning, does does not not vary, vary, but the recipes recipes but the principle, differ from from each each other other in in requiring requiring different different ingredients. ingredients. As As differ well as as the the traditional traditional lodian-style Indian-style rice yellow (saffron) (saffron) rice -- yellow weil rice -- boiled boiled cabbage cabbage mixed mixed with with mashed mashed potatoes potatoes and and rice sprinkled with with curry, curry, thin pancakes made thin pancakes made of of fine fine wheaten wheaten sprinkled

flour, etc., etc., are are served. served. f1our, In France, France, Sautéed Sautied chicken chicken àd l'indienne l'indienne isis often prepared often prepared ln by adding adding curry powder to curry powder to aa chicken chicken sauté saut6 àd blanc, blanc, its itssauce sauce by bound with with aa chicken chicken Velouté Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). bound pourBr SAUTE A L'rr,tLreNNE Sautded chicken chicken ài l'italienne I'italienne I.I. POULET Sautéed SAUTÉ À L'ITALIENNE Saut6 the the chicken chicken in in aa mixture mixture of of oil oil and and butter butter àd brun. brun. -- Sauté juices Dilute the ({ pint, the juices with with I} 1] dL pint,3~ cup) dl. (t cup) white white wine; reduce wine; reduce Dilute (+ pint, and add pint, }J cup) add 11 l* dL dl. (i (see SAUCE). cltp) /talian Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). and pouLET sAUrE A r'rr.lrrrNt.re Saut6ed chicken chicken ài l'italienne I'italienne II. II. POULET Sautéed SAUTÉ À L'IT ALIENNE Saut6 the chicken in the chicken in oil and butter. oil and butter. When When half-cooked, half-cooked, add add -- Sauté tablespoon onion onion which which has has been partly cooked been partly cooked in in butter, butter, 1I tablespoon chopped shallot, shallot, and and 44 chopped chopped mushrooms. mushrooms. 1I chopped juices with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) Dilute the pan juices the pan Dilute with 1 dL (6 tablespoons, scant Jl cup) white wine; wine; boil boil down down and and add (6 tablespoons, add 1I dL dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant white cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock (3 tablespoons, stock and and 1 dl. (3 tablespoons, I dL 1* cup) scant i{ cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Boil Boil for for aa few few scant moments and and add add 1I tablespoon tablespoon lean lean chopped chopped ham ham and and 1I moments tablespoon parsley, parsley, tarragon tarragon and and chervil. chervil. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken tablespoon with this this sauce. sauce. with pourer SAUTÉ Sautded chicken chicken àir la la japonaise. saur6 A t.l Sautéed japonaise. POULET À LA JApoNArsE Saut6 the chicken in brun. When When it JAPONAISE -- Sauté the chicken in butter butter d à brun. it is is half-cooked (ll oz.) add 300 g. (Il 300 g. drained half-cooked add oz.) blanched blanched and and drained Japanese Continue cooking chicken is Japanese artichokes. artichokes. Continue cooking until until the the chicken is ready, for Sautied ready, then then finish finish off off as as for Sautéed chicken chicken with with artichokes. artichokes. pouI.sr SAUTÉ A Sautded chicken Sautéed chicken àir la la livonienne. Iivonienne. POULET slur6 À rn LA LTvoNTENNE - Saut6 the chicken in butter d blanc. When it is LIVONIENNE - Sauté the chicken in butter à blanc. When it is three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked add add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) morels morels saut6ed sautéed in in butter. for Sautded butter. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices and and finish finish as as for Sautéed chicken chicken with with cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with with the the morels morels and and coat coat with with the the sauce, sauce, to which I1 tablespoon tablespoon blanched blanched and and chopped chopped chives chives have have to which been added. been added. Scatter Scatter 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) breadbreadcrumbs crumbs fried fried in in butter butter over over the the morels. morels. poulrr SAUTÉ A Sautfu Sautéed chicken chicken Ià la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. POULET saur6 À re LA LyoNNArsE - Saut6 the chicken in butter d brun. When it is LYONNAISE - Sauté the chicken in butter à brun. When it is half cooked add 2 large half cooked add 2 large chopped chopped onions onions which which have have been been saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking. cooking. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) vinegar. vinegar. Boil Boil down, down, and and add add (+ 22 dl. dL pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy gravy or or Rich Rich brown sauce (see SAUCE). Coat the chicken with the sauce brown sauce (see SA UCE). Coat the chicken with the sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. pouI.Er SAUTÉ .4, Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken ià la la Marengo. Marengo. POULET s,turf À rl LA MARENC,o - Saut6 the chicken in oil d brun. Dilute the pan MARENGO - Sauté the chicken in oil à brun. Dilute the pan juices with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) white wine, boil juices with 1 dL (6 tablespoons, scant +1 cup) white wine, boil down down and and add add I~ dl. dL (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *i cup) thickened "up) thickened brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, lil~ dl. dL (+ (i pint, pint, J~ atp) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and and aa crushed crushed clove cloveof ofgarlic. garlic. Boil Boil for for aa few few minutes minutes and and strain. strain. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 88fried fried mushrooms;4 mushrooms; 4 small small fried fried (or just the yolks); eggs eggs (or just the yolks); 44 crayfish crayfish trussed trussed and and cooked cooked in in court-bouillon;4 court-bouillon; 4heart-shaped heart-shaped crottons croûtons fried fried inin butter; butter; and and g8 slices of truffies truffies saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and slices of sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken au au matelote matelote -- See See Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken dà lala bourguignonne. bourguignonne.

Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with mushrooms mushrooms

Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with mushrooms. mushrooms. pouI-nr POULET s.tur6 SAUTÉ

lux AUX

cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter dà brun. brun. When When three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked add add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz) oz.) sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with ]1dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant +t cup) cup) Madeira, Madeira, boil boil down down and and add add l+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (i pint, pint, J-t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with the the mushrooms mushrooms and and coat coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken nigoise. niçoise. pouLET POULET snurf SAUTÉ NrgorsE NIÇOISE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in oil oil dà brun. brun. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *1 cup) cup) white white wine, wine, add add aa crushed crushed garlic garlic clove, down and and add add l+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (i pint, pint, $-1 cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce clove, boil boil down

ct

(see (see SAUCE.) SAUCE.)

Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 88 artichoke artichoke quarters quarters cooked cooked in in butter, butter, 44 braised braised baby baby marrows marrows (zucchini), (zucchini), l2S 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) small small new new potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and 12 12 stoned stoned black black olives. olives. Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Sautffi Sautéedchicken chickenwith withoysters oystersI.I.pouLETsAUrE POULET SAUTÉaux AUXHuirnnsHUÎTRESSaut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter dà blanc. blanc. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with 11 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant +1cup) cup) white white wint wine and and the the 234 234

CHICKEN CHICKEN liquor liquor from from 12 12 poached poached oysters. oysters. Boil Boil down down and and add add I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *t cup) cup) chicken chicken Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Boil Boil for for aa few few moments. moments. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., {} cup) cup)

cooked, cooked, 22chopped chopped medium-sized medium-sized truffies. truffles. Remove Remove the the chicken chicken and and garnishes garnishes and and dilute dilute the the pan pan juices (3 scant with] dl. tablespoons, juices witht dl. (3 tahles-poons, seantf, cup) eup)sherry. sherry.Boil Boildown down gravy. veal (+ and and add add l+ li dl. dl. (a pint, pint, J! cup) cup) thickened thiekened brown brown veal gravy. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over the the chicken. chicken. Saut6ed Sautéedchicken chickel'liàlalaromaine. romaÎlle.PoULET POULETsAUTE SAUTÉAÀLA LARoMAINE ROMAll'vine - Proceed (see (see below). below). Put the the chicken on a a layer of of Duchess potato patata mixture mixture (see (sec POTATOES) POT A TOES) brushed brushed with egg and browned in in oyen. Garnish with buttered asparagus asparagus tips. tips. Coat with with the oven. sauce. the sauce. slurn PARMENTIER Saut6ed chicken Sautéed chickcn Parmentier. PouLEr POULET SAUTÉ PARMENTIER Saut6 the chicken in butter. When Saulé When two-thirds cooked, add dice and 44 blanched potatoes, cut eut in in large dice and half-cooked half-cooked in in butter. Finish as for Sautéed Sautied chicken with witn white wine (see (see below). sprinkle Garnish wittr with the potatoes, coat with the the sauce and sprinkle with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. pfnlu. PÉRIslur6 A P6rigord. pourE'r la Périgord. chicken ilI la Saut6ed chicken Sautéed POULET SAUTÉ À LA The truffles tqffies. Tbe truffies may be with tru/fies. chicken witl! coRD -- Sec Se Sautéed Sautied cl!icken GORD small olives. cut to look like small eut pourpr SAUTÉ PErIT-DUc - Sauté Saut6 petit-duc. POULET s.lurf PETIT-DUC-chicken petit-duc. Sautéed SautEed chickcn juices with pan juices with tj dl. dl. the pan in butter àd brun. brun. Dilute the the chicken chicken in the and add down and (3 tablespoons, boil down Madeira, boil cup) Madeira, scant * cup) (3 tablespoons, seant (see SAUCE). Boil for for SAUCE). Boil (+ pint, ~I cup) sauce (sec Ricft brown sauce l+ dl. cup) Rich dl. (! li aa few few moments. moments. saut6ed slices sautéed morels and and trume truffie slices with morels chicken with Garnish the the chicken Garnish with the the sauce. sauce. in in butter. Coat Coat with rn pi6montaise. POULET saure ÀA LA PouLE'r SAUTÉ la piémontaise. chicken ài la Sautécd Sautded chicken pduovrxsn -- Proceed white !Vine wine with white chicken as for for Sautéed Sautied ch Proceed as PIÉMONTAISE ick en wilh mixed wi with of risotto mixed (see below). in aa border border of chicken in Put the the chicken (sec th below). Put truffie white truffle garnish with of white with slices slices of and garnish white trumes, truffies, and diced diced white it. over il. Pour the the sauce sauce over in butter. lightly beated heated in butter. Pour lightly pourrr SAUTÉ u slun6 ÀA LA portugaise. POULET chicken ài lala portugaise. Sautéed Saut6ed chicken poRruGAIsE - Sauté in oil. When two-thirds two-thirds oil. When chicken Saut6 the the chic PORTUGAISE ken in out the the Take out onion. Take chopped onion. cooked, add add 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped cooked, and aa clove clove pipped tomatoes peeled and and pipped tomatoes and put 44 peeled and put chicken, chic ken, and (6 tablespoons, pan. Season, dl. (6 tablespoons, add 1I dl. garlic in Season, add in the the pan. of crushed crushed garlic of half. Add Add 33 tabletabledown by by half. wine and and boil boil down white wine cup) white seant scant tI cup) gravy. Coat the Coat the (scant tt cup) veal gravy. brown veal cup) thickened thickened broWll spoons spoons (seant parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped and sprinkle sprinkle with with the sauce and chicken with the sauce chicken poulsr SAUTÉ rl slur6 ÀA LA provengale. POULET chicken ili lala provençale. SlIUtéed Sautied chickel'l pRovENqALE - Procecd portuchicken àh lala portufor Sautéed Sautied chicken as for Proceed as PROVENÇALE gaise. gaise. and 88 olives and blanched olives with 20 20stoned, stoned, blanched chicken with Garnish the the chicken Garnish sauce' with the the sauce. Coat with oil. Coat mushrooms sautéed saut6ed inin oil. small small mushrooms chopped withchopped andsprinkle sprinkle with filletsand anchovy flllets Decorate with with 88anchovy Decorate parsley. parsley. Saut6 the the RIvoLI - - Sauté PouLErSAUTÉ slurf RIVOLI Rivoli. POULET chickenRivoli. Sautéed Sautded chickell add44 cookedadd When thrce-quarters three-quarters cooked brun. When chickeninin butter butter àdbmn. chicken when completely completely and when potatoessautéed butter, and saut6ed inin butter, sliced sliced potatoes

a

a

235 235

CHICKEN CHICKEN Chlcken soufflé. souffid.SOUFFLÉ sourrri DE DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE-- Using UsW raw rawchicken, chicken. Ch.icken Add 55 stiffly (2+ lb.) stifry whisked whisked egg egg whites whites to kg. (2* to 1I kg, lb.) Chicken Chicken Add (see FORCEMEAT), mousseliwforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Put Put in inaa buttered buttered mousselineforcemeat gently in souffi6 dish dish and and cook cook gently in the the oven for 35 35 to 40 minutes, oven for to 40 minutes. soufflé Using cooked cooked chicken. (generous 1I lb,) chicken. Pound Pound 500 500 g.g. (generous lb.) Using cooked chicken chicken meat meat adding (scant l1} cup) adding 66 tablespoons tablespoons (seant cup) cooked (see SAUCE). cold thick co BCchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Season Season and and rub rub thick Id Béchamel pur6e, without through aa sieve. sieve. Heat Heat this this purée, without allowing allowing itto it to boil. boil. through (2 oz" Add 50 50 g.g. (2 yolks and oz.,l cup) cup) butter, butter, 55 egg egg yolks and 66 stiffly stifry Add whisked egg egg whites, whites. Put in aa buttered Put in buttered soufflé souffi6 dish dish and and cook cook whisked gently in in the the oven, oven. gently of ch.icken chicken soup. Cream of soup. CRÈME cniw DE DE VOLAILLE voLArLrJ -- Soup Soup made made Crerun with chicken chicken cooked cooked in in aa veal pounded to veal or or chicken chicken stock, stock, pounded to with pur6e and and finished finished with (See with velouté veloutd sauce sauce and and, cream. cream. (See aa purée souPs AND AND BROTHS,) BROTHS.) SOUPS poT,JLARDE souvmov- Stuffthe chicken Cticken Souvorov. Souyaro% POULARDE Ch.icken SOUVAROV - Stuff t he chicken gras and with chopped chopped foie and truffles, truffies, seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and foie gras with spices and and aa few few drops drops of liqueur brandy. of liqueur brandy. spices Put the the chicken chicken in in aa covered pan with covered pan with some some butter butter and and Put cook until until three-quarters three-quarters done, done. Transfer Transfer the chicken to the chicken to aa cook casserole and and add add 88 medium-sized medium-sized truffles trufres which which have have been been casserole seasoned and and simmered in butter simmered in butter for for 55 minutes, minutes. seasoned juices diluted Moisten the the chicken chicken with with the the cooking cooking juices with diluted with Moisten Madeira, boiled boiled down and mixed mixed with (see down and with Rich Rich brown sauce (see brown sauce Madeira, juices. Co SAUCE) made made with with the the truffle trufre juices, Cover, and seal seal the lid the lid SAUCE) ver, and paste. with f1our-and-water flour-and-water pas Finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen oven for for with te. Finish 20 to 25 minutes, minutes. to 25 20 poussrN Spring chicken. chicken POUSSIN This term can he term can be used used 10 to - This Spring describe aa newly newly hatched hatched chicken, chicken, but but the the flesh flesh of of such such aa descrihe young bird is so so soft soft and and insipid insipid that it is is scarcely that it scarcely edible, edible. ln In young bird is culinary terminology terminology the the word word poussin usually means means aa cuJinary poussin usually young chicken which is chicken which is sufficiently sufficiently well formed for its f1esh flesh young weil formed for ilS to all the and flavour. to have have ail the necessary necessary firmness firmness and flavour. The nameis alsogiven to aavery small chicken, chicken, ofwhich of which the The name is also given to very small the best chicken. These These have delicate flesh and best type type is is Hamburg Hamburg chicken, have delicate f1esh and can be any of small roasting can he prepared prepared in in any of the the ways ways given given for for small roasting chickens. chickens, poussrN (cold). Spriry chicken FROID - Prepared Prepared in in any any of of Spring cblcken (cold). POUSSIN FRorD the dishes. The The chicken chicken the ways ways given given for for cold co Id chicken chicken or or pigeon pigeon dishes. is withfoie gras and diced is stuffed stuffed with with forcemeat forcemeat or or withfoie gras and diced truffies. truffles, For For some some dishes dishes the the chickens chickens are are boned. boned, poussrN Spnry chicken EN coMporE COMPOTE - Stuffed Stuffed Spring cbicken en en compote. compote. POUSSIN EN with fine forcemeat forcemeat (made (made with with the the chicken chicken liver). liver), with aa fine Prepared asfor Compote of ofpigeon pigeon (see (see PIGEON). PIGEON), Prepared as for Compote poussrN Sprfug Spring chicken chlcken (fried). (fried). POUSSIN FRrr FRIT -- Cut Cut the the chicken chicken into into pieces of equal size and marinate pieces of equal size and marinate in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice juice and and salt salt and in flour, flour, coat coat with with egg egg and and breadbreadand pepper. pepper. Roll Roll the the pieces pieces in crumbs crumbs and and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. Garnish Gamish with with fried fried parsley parsley and and lemon Jemon quarters. q uarters. poussrN cnln6 A u Spring grilled chicken i la diable. Spring chlcken grilled à la diable. POUSSIN GRILLÉ À LA DIABLE - Prepared asfor Grilled chickm d la diable. DIABLE - Prepared as for Grilled chicken à la diable, Spring Spring chickcn ch.icken in in marinade marinade (fried). (fried). poussrN POUSSIN EN EN MARTNADE MARINADE (rntr) (FRIT) - Cut Cut the the chicken chicken in in quarters quarters and and take take out out the the small small juice, bones. Marinate in oil, lemon salt, pepper, pepper, and and bones. Marinate in oil, lemon juice, salt, chopped chopped herbs. herbs, Dip Dip the the pieces pieces in in aa light light batter batter and and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. Drain, TomalO Drain, and and garnish gamish with with fried fried parsley. parsley, Serve Serve with with Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). This This dish dish is is often often incorrectly incorrectly served served under under the the name name of of fritot frllOt of of chicken; chicken; butfritot but frllOt denotes denotes previously previously cooked cooked subsu bstances. stances. pETrrs pols preSpring Spring chicken chicken with with peas. peas. poussrN POUSSIN Ar.x AUX PETITS POIS -- Prepared pared as as for for Pigeon Pigeon with with peas peas (see (see PIGEON). PIGEON). pdrraoxr,lrsB Sprfug Spring chicken chicken iil la la pidmontaise. piémontaise. poussrN POUSSIN AÀ r.l LA PIÉMONT AISE the chicken with --- Fill Fill the chicken with fine fine forcemeat, forcemeat, the the chopped chopped liver liver and and aa little little onion onion lightly lightly cooked cooked in in butter. butter, Truss Truss as as for for boiling. boiling, Cook in butter, Cook in butter, browning browning itit all ail over. over. Drain, Drain, and and remove rem ove th1 the trussing trussing strings. strings. Surround Surround the the chicken chicken with with aa risotto. risotto, Dilute Dilute

the juices with with white white wine, wine, thickened gravy and veal gravy thickened brown brown veal and aa thejuices little tomato pur6e. Boil pour over tomato purée. Boil down down together and pour together and over the the little chicken. chicken, poussrN ÀA LA por,oN,l,rsr poloneise. POUSSIN Spring chicken chicken àI la la polonaise. u POLONAISE Sprlng gratinforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT) Stuffa chicken with with àri gratinforcemeal FORCEMEAT) Stuff a chicken mixed with with soaked soaked bread, bread, butter butter and parsley. and chopped chopped parsley. mixed Cook in in aa casserole, Finish as casserole. Finish polonaise. as for for Chicken Chicken àd la la polonaise, Cook poussrN RÔTI Roasted spring sprlng ch.icken. chickeh. POUSSIN garni, ROTr -- Put Puta bouquet garni, Roasted a bouquel tablespoon butter butter and and the the chopped chopped liver, liver, weil seasoned with with well seasoned 1I tablespoon pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and pepper and grated nutmeg, inside inside the Truss, the chicken, chicken. Truss, salt bard with put on with bacon bacon fat fat and and put good on the the spil. spit. Cook Cook on on aa good bard heat, basting basting frequently. frequently. heat, Arrange on long dish dish and and garnish garnish with on aa long with cress, cress. Hand Hand the Arrange the juices separately, separately. juices Spring ch.icken chicken liI la (Prosper Salles' la sicilienne sicilienne (Prosper Salles' recipe). recipe). Spring poussrN A LA r,e SICILIENNE (q.v.) in srcu,rsNNE -- Cook Cook some lasagne (q,v,) some lasagne in salt salt POUSSIN À water. Drain Drain and and reheat reheat for for aa few few moments moments in in hot hot butter. water. pur6e of with aa purée nuts. Season of pistachio nuIS. Season weil well and and allow allow to Bind with to cool. Stuff Stuffthe chicken with this this mixture and and trus5 truss as as for for spit spit cool. the chicken roasting. Cook good heat, Cook at at aa good heat, basting frequently. When basting frequently, roasting, When thiee-quarters cooked sprinkle sprinkle with grated breadwith freshly freshly grated breadthree-q uarters cooked crumbs and and let let itit col colour. the juices separately, separately. crurnbs OU!', Hand thejuices poussrN À Spring chlcken chicken liI la la tartare. tartare. POUSSIN rmrlnr -- Split A LA r,a TARTARE Split Spring the chicken chicken down the the back, back, season, season, brush over over with melted melted the and sprinkle with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs. Grill on aa gentle heat. butter and (see SAUCE), Serve with with Tartare sauce (see SAUCE). Serve poussrN À Spring ch.icken chicken liI la la viennoise. POUSSIN A LA L,q, VIENNOISE vleNxorsE -Spring Divide the quarters. Season, the chicken chicken into into quarters, Season, sprinkle sprinkle with Divide flour, and coat with egg and breadcrumbs. Brown them well fioul', (or lard), or fry in deep fat. both sides sides in clarified butter (or on both with fried parsley quarters. Garnish with parsley and lemon quarters, Chicken Stanley. POULARDE IoULARDE STANLEY srANLEy -- Poach the chicken Chicken in chopped onions have been in a white stock to which 44large large chopped added. Put the chicken on a dish and surround with 20 20large added. large mushrooms and 8 tartlets filled with chopped chopped truflles, truffies. Finish u for SautCed chickm Stanley, Stanley. Sautüd chicken Finish as Sttrd chicken Sl:Uffed ch.icken iil I'ariegeoise. l'ariégeoise. pouLET POULET r,mcl FARCI A À L'ARrfL'ARlÉcEoIsE -- Stuff Stuff the chicken with forcemeat made as follows: GEOISE oz.) crustless squeeze and put in soak 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 OL) crustless bread in milk, squeeze a basin. 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) oz,) chopped raw ham, the chopped basin, Add Add 100 chicken liver gpzzard,2 liver and and gizzard, 2 finely chopped cloves of of garlic garlic and 2 and 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) chopped onion cooked lightly lightly in in fat. Bind Bind with an egg egg and the the blood blood of of the chicken. chicken, Season Season with with salt, pepper pepper and grated nutmeg. nutmeg, Add I1 tablespoon spoon chopped parsley. parsley, Truss the Cook in aa pot-au-fat pot-au-feu with with the chicken as as for for boiling. boiling, Cook a piece piece of of beef beef and and a piece piece of of chined salt salt pork pork (pork back). back), Take Take the the trussing trussing strings offthe off the cooked chicken chicken and and garnish garrush with of stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, potatoes potatoes sliced sliced and cooked cooked in in with balls balls of the pot-au-feu broth, broth, and and the the boned boned and and sliced sliced pork. pork, the pot-au-fan Serve with TomalO sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) seasoned seasoned with with with Tomato garlic. garlic, The The pot-au-fat pOl-au:feu broth broth is is served served as as aa soup, soup, with with rice rice or or vermicelli. vermicelli, Strffed la mode mode de de Sorges Sorges @6rigord (périgord cookery). cookery). Sluffed chicken chickell iil la pouLET POULET rlncl FARCI A À LA LA MoDE MODE DE DE soRGEs SORGF~~ -- Stuff Stuff the the chicken chic ken with with forcemeat ofchopped chopped chicken chicken liver, liver, stale stale breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, forcemeat made made of chopped chopped bacon, bacon, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chopped chopped spring spring onions, onions, chopped chopped garlic, garlic, all ail well weil seasoned seasoned with with chopped shallot shallot and and chopped salt, pepper and and grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and bound bound with with the the blood blood of of salt, pepper the the chicken chicken and and eggyolks. eggyolks, Brown Brown the the chicken chicken all ail over over in in goose goose fat. fat. Put Put itinamarmite it in a marmite and and cover cover with with boiling boiling water. water. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil and and skim. skim, Add Add 33 carrots, carrots, 22 turnips, tumips, the the white 3leeks, I1celery of3leeks, celery heart, heart, I\ large large onion anion stuck stuck with with white parts parts of I1clove, clove, and and beet beet stalks stalks tied tied in in aa bunch. bunch, Cook Cook very very slowly slowly for for I1hour. hour. Drain Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove rernove the the trussing trussing strings, strings, and and garnish gamish with with the the sliced sliced carrots carrots and and turnips. tumips.

*

236 236

CHICKEN CHICKEN Serve with with Sorges Sorges sauce, sauce, which which is is aa highly highly seasoned seasoned Serve [vinaigrette sauce sauce with with chopped chopped parsley, parsley, spring spring onions onions and and vinaigrette ,shallotsadded, added,bound boundwith with22egg eggyolks yolkscooked cooked for for 33minutes minutes shallots these eggs, boil ingwater. wa ter.Finish Finishwith withthe thewhites whi tesofofthese eggs,recooked recooked ininboiling thechicken chickenbroth broth and and cut cutinindice. dice. in l in the Suprêmes of ofchicken cbicken. suPRtMEs SUP~MES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE -- The The breast breast Supr0mcs and wings wings of of poultry, poultry, removed removed when when raw. raw. Also Aiso known known as as and côtelettes orfilets, or filets, and and served served as as small small entCes. entrées. c\telettei When suprAmes suprêmes ofofpoulardes poulardes or or fat fat hens hens are are used, used, they they are are When divided into into22or or33slices, slices, flattened, flattened, trimmed trimmed into into oval oval shapes, shapes, 1divided and cooked cooked like Iike chicken chicken c6telettes. côtelettes . and Suprêmes of of chicken chicken ambassadrice. ambassadrice. supntuns SUPR~MES DE DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE SuprGmes AMBASSADRICE -- Saut6 Sauté in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with chicken chicken livers livers AMBAssADRIcB sautéed in in butter, butter, cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, and and truffies truffles cutcut saut6ed into the the shape shape of of olives. olives. Dilute Oilute the the pan pan juices juices with with Madeira Madeira' into and thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Pour Pour over over the the dish. dish. and Place on on top top of of the* these suprdmes suprêmes the the filets filets mignons mignons' (pieces (pieces Place which lie lie against against the the breast breast bone), bone), studded with trufles. truffles. which Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Cam6rani. Camérani. supn8uns SUP~MES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE Supr6mes CAMÉRANI - Coat Coat the suprAmes suprêmes with with a mixture of egg and crufnlm breadcrumbs and and chopped truffies. truffles. Saut6 Sauté in butter. butter. breadcrumbs juices, Place on on aa bed bed of ofnoodles. Makeaa sauce saucewith panjuices, with the pan noodles. Make Place 1 gravy, to ! mixed mixed with with Madeira Madeira and and thickened brown veal veal gravy, which has has been been added added 1 tablespoon ta blespoon iulienne julienne (q.v.) (q. v.) of celery which truffles, cooked in butter butter until tender. and truffies, DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Car0me. Carême. supnf;runs SUPRÊMES DE Supr0mes CA~ME - Slit open fil 1 with aa thick mushand fill suprAmes and opur the suprêmes cAnEus and purée, to which a fine fine julienne julienne (q'v.) (q.v.) of cocks' combs and ofcocks' room pur6e, truffles has has been been added. Sauté Saut6 in butter. truffies Place on in butter. fried in butter' Garnish with bread fried cro0tons of bread on croûtons Place Chicken iltto olive olive cut into truffies cut quenelles (see QUENELLES), Chicken quenelles QUENELLES), truffles veal shapes, thickened brown veal use thickened sauce use shapes, and mushrooms. For sauce mignons, gravy the filets Put the and butter. butter. Put gravy with with tomato tomato and filets mignons, studded supr0mes. of the suprêmes. pickled tongue, on top top of tongue, on with pickled studded with Suprêmes voLAILLE DE VOLAILLE swnElrars DE la florentine. florentine. SUP~MES chicken àI la of chicken Supr6mes of À until chicken stock stock until or chicken in veal veal or Poach in A LA FLoRENTINE - Poach r,c, .FLORENTINE three-quarterscooked. SAUCE) Mornay sauce(see SAUCE) with Mornaysauce(see Coat with three-quarters cooked. Coat to with Sprinkle with added. Sprinkle has been been added. essence has chicken essence which chicken to which grated quickly. brown quickly. and brown grated Parmesan Parmesan and Suprêmes voLAILLE DE VOLAILLE supnBMes DE Gabrielle. SUPR~MES chicken GabrieUe. of chicken Supr6nes of GABRIELLE the detaching the without detaching suprAmes, without the suprêmes, Remove the cABRIELLE - Remove (q-v.) filets mignons. .v.) mirepoix (q of mirepoix layer of thin layer with aa thin Cover with filets mignons. Coyer cooked breadand breadwith egg egg and Coat with tender. Coat until tender. in butter butter until cooked in crumbs. in butter. butter. Saut6 in crumbs. Sauté Suprêmes voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE supnf;uns DE I'imsriale. SUPRÊMES chicken àt l'impériale. of chicken Supr6mes of ÀA L'IMPÉRIALE of with semi-circles semi-circles of supr4me.l with the suprêmes Studthe r'itpfruaLp - Stud [ruffles stock. white stock. Cook inin white pickled tongue. tongue. Cook and pickled truffies and Fill crlme pur6e of of truffles trufres àdlalacrème with aa purée barquettes with Fill cooked cooked barquettes and sauce SuprAmesauce with Suprême lightly with Coat lightly supr1mes. Coat put inin the the suprêmes. and put (see mignons, studded with truffies, on trufres, on (see SAUCE). thef/etsmignons,studdedwith Putthefilets SAUCE). Put top of the thesuprêmes. supr€me* top of Suprêmes voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE supnBursDE marquise. SUP~MES chickenmarquise. ofchicken Supr€mesof MARQUISE puff ofpuff bouchiesof tvtthbouchées Garnishwith butter.Garnish Saut6 ininbutter. MARQUIsE - - Sauté pastry and kidneysand combs, kidneys cocks'combs, ofcocks' salpiconof pastry filled with aasalpicon flled with truffles juices with withcream, cream' panjuices thepan Dilute the cream. Oilute withcream. boundwith iruffies bound totowhich tabletablespoons(3(3tableand22tablespoons butterand added butter hasbeen beenadded whichhas spoons) put andput sauceand thissauce withthis suprAmes with thesuprêmes Coat the truffies. Coat spoons)truffles. filets mignons, poached ininwhite stock, on top. top. on white stock, poached mignons, filets Suprêmes voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE suPRtMEs DE Montpensier.SUPR~MES ofchicken chickenMontpensier. Supr6mesof MONTPENSIER - Coat andbreadcrumbs breadcrumbs withegg eggand suprAmeswith thesuprêmes r,{oNrpsNsrER - Coatthe and tipsinin asparagus tips withasparagus Garnishwith butter'Garnish themininbutter. andsauté saut6them butter Dot suprAme'Dot eachsuprême. oneach truffieon oftrume puttwo slicesof twoslices andput butterand with butters)' (seeBUTTER, Compoundbutters). BUTTER, Compound butter(see Norieitebutter with Noisette For use thickened brown veal gravy. Forsauce sauce use thickened brown veal gravy. Suprêmes of chicken à la Périgueux. SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE Supr6mes of chicken t la P6rigueux. supn0Mss DE VoLAILLE À LA PÉRIGUEUX fried putononcroûtons cro0tonsfried andput butterand Saut6ininbutter A r,c, pfRrcuEux- -Sauté ininbutter. Demi withDemicoatwith andcoat truflesand withsliced slicedtruffles Garnishwith butter.Garnish glace (see SAUCE), flavoured with Madeira. glacesauce sauce (see SAUCE), flavoured with Madeira. 1

1

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DE VoLAILLE Supr0mes Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Pojarski. Pojarski. supnBurs SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE Add 50 g. (2 oz., suprdmes. of the flesh the Chop POJARSKI - Chop the flesh of the suprêmes. Add 50 g. (2 oz., g. (2 and squeezed, in milk soaked I1cup) breadcrumbs, cup) breadcrumbs, soaked in milk and squeezed, 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz., *t cup) cup) butter, butter, and and I1 or or 22 tablespoons tablespoons fresh fresh cream. cream. Season Season flour wprAmes. Reshape the withsalt, with salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Reshape the suprêmes, flour lightly and saut6 sauté in in butter. butter. lightly and Garnish Garnish with with aa green green vegetable vegetable cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and dot dot with with Noiselte Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters)butters). VoLAILLE DE princesse. supnBuns Supr6mes Suprêmes of of chicken cbicken princesse. SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE pRINcEssB PRINCESSE -- Cook Cook in in veal veal or or chicken chicken stock. stock. Put Put the the suprdmes suprêmes on on crofitons croûtons fried fried in in butter, butter, garnish garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips tips in in with Allemande butter butter and and coat coat with Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE)' SAUCE). Place Place mignons, Put thefilets suprAme. two two slices slices of of trufres truffies on on each each suprême. Put thefilets mignons, studded studded with with truffies, truffles, on on top. top. DE VoLAILLE Supr6mcs Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Richelieu. Richelieu. supnBuns SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE in and sauté saut6 in and breadcrumbs egg and nrcnrrnu RICHELIEU - Coat Coat with with egg breadcrumbs and (see BUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see butter. butter. Dot Dot with with Maitre Maître d'h6tel d'hôtel butter oneachsuprAme. of trufre on put 44 slices and put slices oftruffle Compoundbutterst) Compound butters) and each suprême. RossIM DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE ROSSINI chicken Roasini. Supr0me of Suprême of chicken Rossini. suprBurs SUP~MES DE Garnish in butter. fried in butter. Garnish put on on croûtons cro0tons fried and put Saute in in butter, butter, and - Sauté trufles. and sliced sliced truffles. g/at sautéed in butter, butter, and saut6ed in of foie gras with slices slices of with (se SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see with Madeira Madeira sauce Coat with supnturs vegetable* SUP~MES various vegetables. with various of chicken, chicken, with SuprGmes of Suprêmes and supr€mes and the suprêmes Season the DIvERs -- Season Lux LÉGUMES lfcuurs DIVERS DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE AUX DE in butter. butter. saut6 in sauté diced vegetables: diced following vegetables: of the the following with any any of Garnish with Garnish braised peeled mushrooms, mushrooms, braised in butter, butter, peeled fried in aubergines fried aubergines in butter, butter, and simmered simmered in in chunks chunks and cut in cucumber eut endives, cucumber endives, of macCdoine of lettuce, macédoine braised lettuce, in butter, butter, braised French beans beans in French aspara' hfranPaise, asparaot àd lafrançaise, peas in in butter butter or in butter, butter, peas vegetables in vegetables pur6es. vegetable purées. or cream, cream, vegetable gus tips in butter butter or tips in gus juices, mixed wine white wine with white mixed with cooking juices, the cooking use the Foi sauce sauoe use For gravY. veal gravy. brown veal and thickened thickened brown and VERDI DE VOLAILLE VoLAILIJ VERDI supnElrlrs DE Verdi. SUP~MES dchicken Suprames of Suprêmes chicken Verdi. pastry shell filled shell filled inaapastry Put them them in in butter. butter. Put suprhmes in the suprêmes Saute the Sauté gras.Put Put two two pur6e of of foie with purée bound with macaroni bound with diced diced macaroni foie gras. with lightly wi with coatlightly and coat suprdme and eachsuprême top of ofeach on top of truffie trufle on slices of th slices Marsala. with Marsala. (se SAUCE), finished with SAUCE), finished sauce (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace and eggand coated inin egg slices, coated cut inin slices, Add the mignons, cut the filets Add filets mignons, in butter. butter. andsautéed saut6ed in breadcrumbs and breadcrumbs pounos ÀAL'ESTRAGON Poach L'rsrRlGoN - - Poach tarragon J.I. POULARDE with tarragon Chicken with Chicken Decorate oftarragon. tarragon. Oecorate withaabunch bunchof white stock stock with chicken ininwhite aachicken chicken thechicken over the Pourover leaves. Pour tarragon leaves. blanched tarragon with blanched with and liquor,strained strainedand cookingliquor, thecooking ofthe tablespoons of several tablespoons several has tarragonhas choppedtarragon whichchopped arrowrool totowhich witharrowroot, thickened with thickened added. beenadded. heen poJARsKI

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withtarragon Chickenwith tarragon Chicken

237 237

CHICK.PEA CHICK-PEA pouuq,nnr

Chicken with withtarragon tarragonn. If.POULARDE ÀAL'ESTRAGON r'rsrR^ec,oN- - Cook Cook Chicken the chicken in butter in a covered dish in the oven. To serve the chicken in butter in a covered dish in the oven. To serve pour over it the cooking juices, diluted with white wine and pour over it the cook.ing juices, diluted with white wine and thickened veal gravy, to which a handful ofchopped tarragon thickened veal gravy, to which a handful of chopped tarragon has been added. has been added. Chicken timbale. See TIMBALE, CROOTES. Chicken timbale. See TIMBALE, CROÛTES. pouLARDE ,l LA rosclNs Chicken ài lalaToscane. Toscane. POULARDE Stuff the the À LA TOSCAl'\E - - Stuff Chlcken chicken wi with 100g.g. (4(4 oz., oz.,l1 cucup) cooked spaghetti, spaghetti, 100 100g.g. chicken th 100 p) cooke
nosae)originating originatingininthe the Mediterranean Mediterranean area, area, one onespecies species of of I/osae) whichisiscultlvated cultivated ininFrance. France. which south-western France France chick-peas chick-peas are are cooked cooked enen lnIn south-western estoufade (q.v.). (q.v.). They They are are used usedinin Spain greatdeal, Spainaagreat deal, being being eSlouffade an essential essential ingredient ingredient of of many many soups. soups. Chick-peas Chick-peas are arealso also an popular inin North very popular North Arrica, Africa, where where lhey partof they are are part of the the very garnish for for the the classic classic couscous. couscous. garnisn Chick-peas Catalan Catalan style. style. POIS nors CHICHF,S cHrcHEsÀALA m CATALANE c^a.rnrANE -Chick-peas Soak the the chick-peas chick-peas untiJ until they quite soft. they become become quite Boil inin soft. Boil Soak water with with aa vegetable vegetable garnish garnish (for (for example, example, white white dried dried water beans), aa bouquet garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and bouquet garni piece of and aa piece of bacon. bacon. Season Season heans), with salt pepper. AdJ salt and and pepper. Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons oil oil to to form form aa with layer of of fat fat on on the the surface. surface. Add Add Spanish Spanish sausages sausages called called layer chorizos. Simmer Simmer very gently for very gently for about about 44 hours. hours. chorizos. Drain the the chick-peas, chick-peas, remove remove the vegetable garnish and the vegeta and Drain hIe garnish garni and the bouquet bouquet garni put the and put the chick-peas chick-peas into into aa saucepan. saucepan. the Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons tomato pur6e, the tomato purée, the chorizos chorizos and and the the Add bacon eut in unifonn pieces. Add cut in uniform pieces. Add aa pinch pinch of garlic and of garlic and aa few few hacon tablespoons of of the the liquid liquid left left over over from from boiling boiling the the chickchicktablespoons peas. Simmer Simmer for for 1I hour. hour. peas.

(U.S. Endive). CHICORY (V.S. Endive). ENDIVE nNorw -- Magdehourg Magdebourg chicory chicory isis CHICORY known in in France France and and U.S.A. U.S.A. as as endive endive and and in in Belgium, known grown in where itit is is grown quantities, as large quantitîes, in large as chicorée chicorie de de Bruxelles, Bruxelles, where (goat's witloof or or barbe-de-bouc barbe-de-bouc (goat witloof 's beard). Chicory roots, grown Ln roots, grown in the the dark, dark, are are white and and delicate. delicate. Clticory Chicory cornes comes into into season season in in Octoher October and and isis availahle available Chicory throughout the the win winter. It isis eaten eaten raw raw in salads, salads, or cooked in throughout ter. ft various ways. ways. various Method of of cooking. Trim and wash the cooking. Trim the chicory, leaving ilit Method in water for as short a a time as as possible. in water for as possible. Place in in aa saucepan (l oz.,2 g. (1 with 25 25 g. o2'2 tahlespoons) juice tablespoons) butter, aa pinch of salt, juice with (6 tablespoons, of I dl. (6 and 1 scant * of f~ lemon lernon and tablespoons, seant t cup) water, for (generous 1 500 g. I lh.) lb.) chicory. Cover and bring boil. 500 g. (generous hring to the hoil. Simmer Simmer steadily steadily for for 45 45 minutes. minutes. Another Trim and chicory and place in a Anolher method. method. Trim and wash the chicory saucepan saucepan with with 50 50 E.(2 g. (2 oz.,* OZ., t cup) butter, hutter, a pinch of of salt and a few few drops drops of of lemon lernon juice. juice. Cover Cover and stew stew for 45 minutes. Chicory in this Chicory cooked cooked in Ibis way way can can be he used used for the recipes given given below. helow. Chicory Chicory should should never never be be parboiled parhoiled before before stewing. stewing. Chicory Chicory irà la la bechamel. béchamel. nNnrvns ENDIVES A À re LA sfcHAMer BÉCHAMEL - Cook Cook the chicory chicory as as above. a hove. Cover with with Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE). and and the the cooking cooking stock, stock, boiled boiled down down with with butter. butter. Chicory Chicory with with brown brown or or noisette noisette butter. butter. ENDrvtrs ENDIVES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE NoIR Nom - Cook Cook the the chicory chicory as as in in the tbe first nrst recipe. recipe. Drain. Drain. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish. dish. Pour Pour on on lemon lemon juice juice and, and, just just before before serving, serving, hot hot Brown Brown or or Noisette Noiselle butter bu/ter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Chicory Chicory with with butter. butter. ENDrvEs ENDIVES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE -- Cook Cook as as in in first first recipe. recipe. Pour Pour on on the the stock stock with wi th aa piece piece of of butter butter added. added. Chicory Chicory chiffonnade. chiffonnade. cHTFFoNNADE CHIFFONNADE D'ENDrvEs D'ENDIVES -- Remove Remove the the outer outer leaves. leaves. Wash, Wash, dry dry and and shred shred them them finely. finely. Cook Cook in in butter, butter, in in aa covered covered pan, pan, with with aa pinch pinc.:h of of salt salt and and sugar. sugar. Chicory Chîcory chiffonnade chiffonnade with with cream. cream. cHTFFoNNADE CHfFFONNADf. D'ENDrvEs D'ENDIVES IÀ uLA cniur CRÈME -- Cook Cook as as in in the the first first recipe. recipe. Five Five minutes minutes before before serving, serving, moisten moislen with with 22 dl. dl. (| (!- pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) boiling boiling cream. cream. Boil Boil fast fast for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Serve Serve with with the the cooking cooking stock stock and and fresh fresh butter. butter. Chicory Chicory ià la la flamande. flamande. ENDrvEs ENDIVES A À r,c LA TTAMINDE FLAMANDE -- another another name name for for Chicory Chicory with witlt butter. buller. Chicory Chicory fritots. fritots. ENDrvBs ENDIVES EN EN FRrror FRJTOT -- Cook Cook the the chicory chicory as as in in the the first first recipe. recipe. Drain Draio and and dry. dry. Quarter Quarter the the shoots shoots and and steep in aa marinade marinade of of oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. steep in Before Before serving, serving, dip dip them them inin light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-f"ry. Serve Serve garnished. gaOlished. Chicory Chlcoryau augratin. gratin.ENDrvEs ENDIVESAU AU GRATTN GRATIN -- Cook Cook the the chicory chicory inin butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. pour Pour on on melted melled butter. the oven. oven. butter. Brown Brown inin the Chicory Chicory inin gravy. gravy. ENDrvEs ENDIVES AU AU JUS JUS -- Cook Cook as as in in the the first first

pon CHICK-PEA. Plant (of the family CHICHF. - Plant (of the family LegumiLegumiCHICK-PEA. POIS cHrcrrE 238 238

CHIFFONNADE CHIFFONNADE

(Mcolas) Chicory (Nicolas) Chicory

tablespoons few tablespoons pour on on aa few and pour dish and recipe. on aa dish Arrange on recipe. Arrange the of the stock of cooking stock and the the cooking veal stock stock and concentrated con;entrated brown veal chicory. chicory. cnscQUE A LA rl GRECQUE rNoIvEs À (hors-d'auvre). ENDIVES grecque (hors-d'œuvre). Chicory àdr la grecque cloth.. and dry dry inin aa cloth Wash and shoots. Wash -- Trim chicory shoots. Trim small small chicory la Artichokes àd la for Artichokes prepared as as for stock prepared Plunge into aa stock them into Plunge them recipe' in that that recipe. as in Finish as (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE) grecque grecque (see HORS-D'(EUVRE).. Finish Name unuNriinn -- Name rlr MEUNIÈRE ENDIvEs Àa, LA Chlcory la meunière. mermiire. ENDIVES Chicory àir la butter. used brown butter. with brown for Chicory Chicory with used for the Cook the rralrnNnlsn -- Cook Ln MILANAISE ENDIvEs ÀA LA Chlcory la milanaise. milanaise. ENDIVES Chicory àir la dish. an ovenproof ovenproof dish. on an Arrange on chicory recipe. Arrange first recipe. as in in the the first chicory as (see ASPARAGUS). ASPARAGUS)' Proceed for Asparagus milanaise (see Asparagus àd lalamilanaise Proceed asasfor the Cook the tr{onNlv- - Cook Ll MORNAY ENDIvEs Ài LA Chicory Mornay. ENDIVES Chicory ài lala Mornay. dish ovenproof dish an ovenproof Arrange inin an recipe. Arrange chicory first recipe. in the as in the first chicory as conand the the con(seeSAUCE) SAUCE) and sauce (see and Mornay sauce with Mornay coverwith and coyer grated cheese. cheese. with grated Sprinkle with centrated chicory. Sprinkle of the thechicory. stock of centrated stock oven.. hot oyen veryhot Pour and brown brown ininaavery melted butter butterand onmelted Pour on poloNllsE- -Cook the Cook the rePOLONAISE ENDIvEs ÀALA Chicory polonaise. ENDIVES Chicoryài lalapolonaise. proceed andproceed dishand Arrange ininaadish chicory recipe.Arrange firstrecipe. thefirst chicory asasininthe (seeASPARAGUS). ASPARAGUS). polonaise (see asasfor Asparagusàdlalapolonaise for Asparagus punrn D'ENDIVES chicoryasas Cookthe thechicory Purée D'ENDIvES- - Cook ofchicory. Puree of chicory. puRÉE pur6eand and Heatthe thepurée sieve.Heat ininthe ub through through aasieve. recipe.RRub firstrecipe. thefirst add cream. little butter butterororcream. addaalittle fewtablespoons tablespoonsofof withaafew This pur6ecan thickened with can be bethickened This purée (seeSA SAUCE), sauce(see Béchamel UCE), ororaa Veloutisauce thickVelouté sauceororthick Bichamel sauce biown Concentratedbrown potatoes.Concentrated third mashedpotatoes. weightofofmashed itsweight thirdofofits veal added. maybebeadded. vealstock stockmay drythe the anddry Washand Chicory D'ENDIvns- - Wash slrlDED'ENDIVES salad.SALADE Chicorysalad. remaining theremaining Separate the chicory. leaves.Separate fadedIeaves. Removefaded chicory.Remove juice lemonjuice oil,lemon withoil, Seasonwith leaves . Season them' shredthem halveororshred andhalve leavesand ororvinegar, pepper. andpepper. vinegar,salt, salt,and alsobebe canalso shredded,can Chicory, wholeOrorshredded, leaveswhole theleaves withthe Chicory,with sauces). (seeSAUCE, Coldsauces). SAUCE,Cold dressed Mayonnaise(see withMayonnaise dressedwith intoa asalado salad. Cooked madeinto alsobebemade canalso chicorycan Cookedchicory

D'ENDIVE - Using cooked chicory sounruf D'ENDIVE sorff6. SOUFFLÉ Chicory souffli. Chicory - Using cooked chicory proceed asfor Endive souffid (see fine sieve, sieve, proceed rubbed through througb aa fine rubbed as for Endive soufflé (see ENDTVE). ENDIVE).

The wild chicory c.lrs -- The cHIcoREE ÀA CAFÉ COFFEE. CHlCORÉE CHICORY, COFFEE. CHICORY, wild chicory for coffee coffee since 1769. It substitute for as aa substitute used as has been been used root has root since 1769. It given rise to has and Germany and in Germany then in in Sicily, Sicily, then used in first used was first was has given rise to up-into cossettes,are roots, The industry. important an an important industry. The roots, cut -cut up into cossettes, are less finely' The different types or less more or powdered, more and powdered, dried and dried finely. The ditferent types selected ftom selected gros-grains, as commercially as gros-grains, from known commercially are known are cossetres; chicory small from (roots); demi-grains, cossettes cossettes (roots); demi-grains, from small cossettes; cbicory form' powder form. chicory inin powder and chicory courantes; and courantes; coffee, although this is than coffee, value than foodvalue more food has more Chicory has Chicory although this is small. It produces consumed isissmal!. amount consumed the amount impoitant asasthe not important not lt produces prevents andprevents properties, laxative properties, and with laxative infusion with dark infusion aa dark much real coffee too when occurs which poisoning laffeine caffeine poisoning which occurs when too much real coffee justifiably, do not allow the addiuddi"ts, justifiably, Coffeeaddicts. drunk. Coffee isisdrunk. do not allow the addicoffee' chicory inincoffee. anychicory ofany tionof tion

plants, foraUallplants, cookingfor usedinincooking Term used CHIFFONNADE- - Term CHIFFONNADE ribbons.ItItisis stripsororribbons. finestrips intofine cutinto otherwise, cut herbalororotherwise, herbai lettuce cut into andlettuce sorreland mixtureofofsorrel foraamixture usedfor specially used specially cut into butter. juliennestrips cookedininbutter. andcooked stripsand julienne for soups' garnish usedasasa agarnish areused chffinnade sare ihechiffonnades ofthe Mostof Most for soupS. cHIFFoNNADE DE in butter. cooked chiffonnade Lettuce Lettuce chiffonnade cooked in butter. CHIFFONNADE DE finely, lettucefinely, leavesofofa alettuce theleaves Slicethe BEURRE- - Slice AUBEURRE LAITUEAU LAITUE lettuce in a slicedlettuce Putthe thesliced leaves.Put coarserleaves. thecoarser asidethe leavingaside in a leaving forevery every butterfor tablespoons) butter panwith tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) *1th22tablespoons pan gently until the liquor cookgently andcook Seasonand lettuce.Season oz.)lettuce. 2SOg.g.(8(goz.) 250 until the liquor evaporated. hasevaporated. has LArruE cHIFFoNNADE cream. with chifronnadewith cream. CHIFFONNADE DEDELAITUE Lettucechiffonnade Lettuce Lettuce chffinnade wayasasLettuce sameway thesame cnDMs-Prepared À ALAr-a,CRÈME - Prepared ininthe chiffonnade moisten softened,moisten hassoftened, lettucehas thelettuce Whenthe buttei.When cookedininbutter. cooked down until the andboil boildown creamand freshcream fewtablespoons tablespoonsfresh witha afew until the with 239 239

CHIMNEY HOOK

CHIMNEY HOOK

liquor has evaporated. Iiquor haschffinnade evaporated. This can also be moistened with cream sauce. chiffonnade can also be moistened with cream sauce. This Mixed chiffonnade (garnish for soups).CHIFFONNADE cHTFFoNNADE Mixed chiffonnade (gamish for soups). MELANGEE - Prepared in the same way as iettuce chiffonnade, MELANGÉE - Prepared in the same way as Lettuce chiffonnade, with a mixture of equal parts of sorrel and lettuce lJaves. withSorrel a mixture of equal parts ofsorrel and lettuce le.aves. chiffonnade. cHTFFoNNADE D'osErLLE _ prepared Sorrel chiJfonnade. CHIFFONNADE D'OSEILLE - Prepared with sorrel leaves in the same way as Lettuce cntXonniae. tt with sorrel leaves in the same way as Lettuce chiffonnade. It potage t!_lrg specially for sanft (see SOUPSAND AND isBROTHS). used specially for Potage santé (see SOUPS BROTHS). CHIMNEY HOOK. cnfumrinr - A toothed pot-hook CHIMNEY HOOK. CRÉMAILLÈRE - A toothed pot-hook used for suspending cauldrons and cooking pots in usedThe. for symbolic suspending cauldrons and cooking pots in chimneys. "hi-rr"yr. expression pendre ta ueiaiilire (to hangup up -The symbolic expression la crémaillère (to hang the chimney hook) means pendre the first meal in a new home. the chimney hook) means the first meal in a new home. CHINA See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. CHINA - -See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. CHINCHARD - See SAUREL. CHIN CHARD - See SA UREL. CHINE. cHATNE - The bony part adhering to the fillet of a CHINE. CHAINE - The bony part adhering to the fillet of a loin. of veal, mutton, lamb or pork, or the 6ony part of a rib loin of veal, mutton, lamb or pork, or the bony part of a rib or sirloin of beef. or sirloin of beef.

pE-TSAI.CHOU CHINESECABBAGE CABBAGEororPE-TSAI. _ This cHouDEDE CHINESE CHINE - This cHrNE fairlycommon commoncabbage cabbagehas has ovalheart heartwith ananoval fairly withvery verytightly tightly closedleaves. leaves. closed Allrecipes recipesgiven givenforforgreen green cabbagecan canbebeused. also cabbage used.It Itcan can also _Ail usedininraw rawsalad, salad,ororinina amarinade, marinade,like likered bebeused redcabbage. cabbage. (FruiQ- -French CHINOIS(Fruit) Frenchname namefor forsmall greenororyellow smallgreen CHINOIS yellow Chineseoranges, oranges,which whichare preservedininbrandy. arepreserved braridy. Chinese

rwoll:::ffiinois Two types of chinois (Larousse)

(Utensil)-- ConicaI CHINOIS (Utensil) Conicalstrainer CHINOIS strainerwith withaafine finemesh. mesh. CHIPOLATA Garnish of ofbraised CHIPOLATA -- Garnish braisedchestnuts, chestnuts, smal! glazed smallglazed onions, diced diced breast breast of pork, chipolata of pork, chipolata sausages, onions, somesausages, and andiome_ glazed carrots times glazed (see GARNISHES). carrots (see GARNISHES). Applies times eppiiesalso alsototo cuts of of butcher's butcher's meat meat and and to to chicken. cuts chicken. Chipolata was originally originally an an ltalian Italian ragoût ragoitt with with an an onion onion ^ Chipolata was foundation. The word word isis also foundation. The also applied applied to to small small sausages sausages enclosed in in sheep's sheep's intestines. intestines. enclosed

CHIQUETER -- To To indent indent the CHIQUETER the margins margins of of aa vol-au-vent vol-au_ventcase, case, the rim rim ofa of a tart, tart, or gdteau, with or gâteau, the with aa small small knife. knife.

Chinese artichoke

Chinese artichoke

CHINESE ARTICHOKE. cRosNE DE JApoN plant CHINESE ARTICHOKE. CROSNE DE JAPON Plant originating in china and Japan, first cultivated in France for originating in China and Japan, first cultivated in France for its edible tubers, at crosnes (seine-et-oise). It is arso called its edible tubers, at Crosnes (Seine-et-Oise). It is also called knotroot, chorogi and Japanese artichoke. knotroot, chorogi and Japanese artichoke. vegetable, Tubers _This -are This vegetable, delicious delicious when when fresh, fresh, is is white. white. Tubers which have dried soating, are which have dried out out and and been been revived revived by by soaking, sometimes sold as fresh, and can be recogniied by a Siown sometimes sold as fresh, and can be recognised by a brown discolouration. discoJouration. The Chinese artichoke is rich in carbohydrates, mostly The Chinese artichoke is rich in carbohydrates, mostly sugars..It hasa pleasant, though rather insipid, tasie and is sugars. It has a pleasant, though rather insipid, taste and is easily digested. easily digested. Put the tubers in a strong linen cloth with a handful of Put the tubers in a strong linen cloth with a handful of sea-salt, and shake them well. Wash them and ..mou" uny sea-salt, and shake them weil. Wash them and rem ove any skin that is left. Blanch in salted water. simmer in butter skin that is left. Blanch in salted water. Simmer in butter without allowing them to brown. without allowing them to brown. Tubers prepared in this way can be served as thev are as a Tubers prepared in this way can be served as they are as a vegetable, or used to garnish a roast. vegetable, or used to garnish a roast. They can-also be prepared d la uime, aux . They fines herbes, herbes, au au can also be prepared à la crème, auxfines jus and in aU the theways ways given given for for Jerusalem Jerusalem aitichokes artichokesfq.u.j. (q,v.). jus and in all

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Chives Chives

CHMS. CHIVES. crBouLETTE, CIBOULETTE, crvETTE CIVETTE - Chives Chives are are used used as as aa seasoning, seasoning, mainly mainly in in salads. salads.

-

CIILORIDE. CmORIDE. orr CHLORE Metalloid that that enters enters the the system system in in onr -- Metalloid

the ofsodium sodium chloride. chloride. ItIt isis found found in in most most of of ihe the bodv body the form form of tissues tissues and and body body liquids, liquids, particularly particularly the the blood. blood.

In In certain certain illnesses illnesses a a salt-reduced salt-reduced (salt-free) (salt-free) diet diet isis prescribed. prescribed. This This requires requires not not only only the the drastic drastic cutting cutting down down of of condiments condiments but but also also the the elimination elimination of of foods foods -rich rich inin chloride. chloride. CHOCOLATE. CHOCOLATE.csocor.trCHOCOLAT-The Thedried, dried,roasted roastedand andpolished polished 'nibs' 'nibs' or or almonds almonds of ofthe the cacao cacao bean bean are are crushed, crushed, and and the the resulting of good good quality, quality, isis about about 50 50 per per cent cent resulting liquor, liquor, ifif of cocoa liquorisispartly partlydefatted, defatted,ititisiscobled cooledand and cocoafat. fat.When Whenthe theliquor solidifies solidifiesinto intoaahard hardblock, block,known knownasasbitter bitterchocolate. chocolate. This This isis used used for for baking bakinginin U.S.A. U.S.A. The The cooking cooking chocolate chocolate used used

Chinese cabbage or Pe-tsai Chinese cabbage or Pe-tsai

240 240

CHOLESTEROL CHOLESTEROL bay, The The seasoning seasoning usually usually consists consists of of onions, onions, thyme, thyme, bay, with cloves, andsalt. salt.The Thesauce sauceisiscombined combined with c1oves,nutmeg, nutmeg, pepper pepperand (lambic). aaglass glass of ofMadeira, Madeira, or orstrong strongBelgian Belgianbeer beer (lambic). Brown Choesels Choeselsiàlalabruxelloise bruxelloise(Paul (PaulBouillard's Bouillard'srecipe) recipe)-- Brown an ox tail, cut into pieces, together with two calf (U.S. veal)

an ox tail, cut into pieces, together with two calf (U.S. veal)

clarified (4 oz., *1cup) sweetbreads sweetbreads in in 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., cup) smoking-hot, smoking-hot, clarified

Encyclopddie). The Themanufacture manufacture of ofchocolate chocolate(l'(l'Encyclopédie). From to right: From left leftto right: Sifting Siftingthe thealmonds almonds ofthe of the cacao cacao beans; beans; Roasting; Roasting; Grating Gratingthe the almonds; almonds; Crushing Crushing the thechocolate chocolate

most most in in England England and and Franc€ France is is aa mixture mixture of of the the chocolate chocolate with some sorne of of the the fat fat removed removed and and sugar sugar added. added. In In liquor with

England this this isis known known as as pure pure chocolate chocolate and and in in the the U.S.A. U ,S.A. as as England bitter-sweet chocolate. chocolate. Milk Milk chocolale chocolate has has powdered powdered or or conconbitier-sweet added to to the the sweetened sweetened chocolate chocolate and and is is densed milk milk added densed fiavoured with vanilla, almond, cinnamon, cinnamon, etc. etc. Chocolate Chocolate flavoured used used in confectionery confectionery to coat sweets has has added added cocoa cocoa fat. fat. Cocoa is is made from powdered chocolate chocolate which which contains con tains Cocoa 18 per cent fat. only l8 Chocolate is is a a concentrated concentrated food, food, but but should should not not be be ihocolate abused. The The cocoa from from which it it is is made contains con tains theotheoabused. caffeine, which bromine -- a nitrogenous nitrogenous substance similar similar to to caffeine, which bromine a stimulating effect on on the nervous system, system, and and makes makes stimulatingeffect has a also but also intellectual fatigue fatigue - but chocolate an excellent excellent tonic for intellectual and those obese and the obese is harmful to which is calcium to the those calcium oxalate, which with rheumatic or liver complaints. Vitamin and Vitamin phosphates and calcium, phosphates in calcium, rich in is rich Chocolate Chocolate is is therethereand is irelps the bones to absorb calcium -- and D -- which helps and workers and heavy workers valuaUh food for children, athletes, heavy fore a valuable for recommended for not recommended It isis not in moderation. It but in intellectuals, but diabetics, for diabetics, nor for constipation, rheumatism, nor from constipation, sufferers sufferers from eaten It isis better better eaten chocolate. It special chocolate, own special who have their their own who have meals. between meals. who the Spaniards, Spaniards, who by the to Europe Europe by brought to was brought Chocolate Chocolate was through spread through Its use use spread 1519. Its in 1519. Mexico in in Mexico had had discovered discovered itit in after. soon after. Europe Europe soon the increasing the of increasing secret of the secret divulges the Brillat-savarin divulges Brillat-Savarin Mother d'Arestrel, Mother Mme. d'Arestrel, which Mme, of chocolate chocolate which fiavour flavour of revealed Belley, revealed at Belley, Visitation at of the the Visitation of the the Convent Convent of Superior Superior of the make itit the good chocolate, chocolate, I)1ake you want to taste taste good 'When you want to to to him: Lim: 'When chocoit. The leave it. pot, and The chocoand leave coffee pot, faience coffee in aa faience night before before in night gives itit aa this gives and this night and during the the night concentrated during late hG becomes becomes concentrated consistencY.' tency. ' m uch better much better consis 40 g.g. Use 40 (beverage). CHOCOLAT cuocolAr -- Use chocolate (beverage). of chocolate Preparation Preparation of liquid' of liquid. cup of breakfast cup for aa breakfast good sweet chocolate for sweet chocolate oi.) good (11 Qtr oz.) hot and hot water and little water pieces, add addaa little into pieces, chocolate into the chocolate Brlak the Break soften' pan, let chocolatesoften, thechocolate the pan, let the gently' Coyer Coverthe heat gently. milk and heat milk and paste. or Add 22or smooth pas into aasmooth whip into andwhip t[e heat heatand from the remove te. Add remove from paste, then then thepaste, dilute the todilute milk to or milk water or boiling water 33tablespoons tablespoons boiling or chocolate or Thechocolate time. The the time. all the stirring ail liquid, stirring ofthe theliquid, restof the therest boil. allowed totoboil. mustnever never be beallowed cocoa cocoa must and tripeand oftripe madeof ragofrt made (Belgran cookery) cookery)-A CHOESELS - A ragoût CHOESELS(Belgian pancreas. pancreas. meat, resembles meat, pancreas resembles removed,pancreas fatremoved, thefat with the C1eaned, Cleaned, with usually pancreas,which whichisisusually Beefpancreas, andelongated. elongated. Beef flatand but butisisfiat (18oz.). oz.). 500g.g.(18 about500 weighsabout forchoesels, choesels, weighs used usedfor partsof ofthe the otherparts byother supplemented by pancreasisisoften oftensupplemented Thepancreas The dish. thedish. flavourofofthe qualities totothe thefiavour addtheir theirqualities whichadd animal, animal, which breast andbreast sweetbreads,and calves'sweetbreads, quenellesof ofcaJves' kidneys, quenelles Ox-tail, Ox-tail, kidneys, choesels' featureininchoesels. feetoflamb of lambfeature andfeet and

gently for 45 beef temperature and and cook cook gently for 45 beef fat. fat. Reduce Reduce the the temperature veal, cut into pieces, and minutes. minutes. Add Add 11kg. kg. (2i (2ilb.) lb.) breast breastof ofveal, cut into pieces, and minutes, stirring. I1large large sliced sliced onion. onion. Cook Cook for for aa further further 30 30 minutes, stirring. pieces' When the kidney has Addl Add 1beef beefkidney, kidney, cut cutinto intolarge large pieces. When the kidney has (* pint, lf cups) lambic stiffened, stiffened, moisten moi sten the the stew stew with with 33dl. dl. (1 pint, li cups) lambic garni (q.v.). Season with salt (Belgian (Belgian beer). beer). Add Add aa bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.). Season with salt and and cayenne. cayenne. a bottle of Cooi< Cook gently gently for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Add Add to to the the choesels choesels a bottle of cooking liquor of the (scant pint,2l cups) S at. lambic anO lambic and 5 dl. (scant pint, 2i cups) of the cooking liquor White from from some sorne mushrooms mushrooms (see (see COURT-BOUILLON, COURT-BOUILLON, White o oms). cour t-bouillon for for mushr mushrooms). court-bouillon Fatty substance rendered CHOLESTEROL. CHOLESTEROL. cnorrsrfnor CHOLESTÉROL -- Fatty substance rendered atheroma, of sufferers from diets The liver. by the assimilable from atheroma, assimilable by the liver. The diets ofsufferers contain arterioscleroiis, arteriosclerosis, gout gout and and liver liver complaints corn plaints should should contain only only moderate moderate amounts amounts of of cholesterol. cholesterol. contained in some Iielow is the the proportion proportion of of cholesterol cholesterol contained in sorne Below is foods: common common foods: 20.00 per 1000 Brains Brains 20·00 per 1000 4'00 ,, Butter Butter 4·00 1.50 ,, Calf's Calf's heart heart 1· 50 3'50 ,, Calf's Calf's kidney kidney 3· 50 4.50 ,, Calf's Calf's lights lights 4·50 2.50 ,, Calf's Calf's liver liver 2· 50 2'80 ), Calf's sweetbread Calf's 2·80 20'00 ,, Egg yolk Egg 20·00 " less than I per 1000' contain less foods contain Ot[er foods Other than 1 per 1000. (phytosterol and ergoplants (phytosterol in plants found in Two substances substances found Two and ergoTherefore cholesterol. Therefore to cholesterol. resemblance to strong resemblance bear aa strong sterol) bear sterol) that vegetables avoid must diets must cholesterol-reduced diets on cholesterol-reduced those on those avoid vegetables that such as the substances, two in these particularly rich are are particularly rich in these two substances, such as the beans, broad beans, lentils) (peas, chick peas, haricot haricot beans, pulsls (peas, chick peas, pulses broad beans, lentils) and mushrooms. mushrooms. and comes either from origin. It cornes dual origin. has aa dual Cholesterol has Cholesterol either from (egg yolk, offal, milk, cream' butter) foods cholesterol-rich cholesterol-rich foods (egg yolk, offal, milk, cream, butter) mainly by the liver. effected mainly synthesis effected of aa synthesis result of or as as the the resuIt or by the Iiver. form itself in the body to form continue to can therefore therefore continue Chblesterol can itself in the body Cholesterol is reduced. foods cholesterol-rich foods is reduced. of cholesterol-rich intake of when the the intake even when even It forms part functions. variety of wide has a Cholesterol Cholesterol has a wide variety of functions. It forms part it enters into the composition of membranes; cellular of the of the cellular membranes; it enters into the composition of plasma to ensure the transpresent in in the the plasma fats; itit isis present tissue fats; tissue to ensure the transliver where where they are the Iiver fats to to the reserve fats by reserve acids by ference of of acids ference they are up. burned burned up. acids which act as produces bile bile acids liver produces the liver Its oxidation oxidation inin the Its which act as intestine. in the the intestine. agent in an emulsifying emulsifying agent an seems hormones corticosurrenaloma of the the corticosurrenaloma honnones seems The synthesis synthesis of The cholesterol. of that parallel to course a follow to to follow a parallel course to that of cholesterol. with the the excessive wrestle with to wrestle matter to delicate matter While itit isisaadelicate While excessive very easy to put a internally, itit isis very cholesterol internally, of cholesterol formation of formation easy to put a by eliminating simply cholesterol of intake of cholesterol simply by eliminating excessive intake stopto toexcessive stop diet. thediet. from the foods from certain foods certain especially in the overweight, especially avoid becoming becoming overweight, One should should avoid One in the limit the the percentage of calories wisertotolimit and ititisiswiser fifties,and earlyfifties, early percentage of calories per cent. 30 fats toto30 per cent. fromfats derivedfrom derived be avoided: offal fatsshould should be animal fats containinganimal Allfoods foodscontaining avoided: offal Ali egg yolks, sweetbreads), kidneys, livers, (calves' and sheeps' (calves' and sheeps' Iivers, kidneys, sweetbreads), egg yolks, cream cheese milk,cream chocolate, milk, oysters, chocolate, margarine,oysters, butter,margarine, butter, cheese Port-Salut, Dutch, Gruydre,Port-Salut, quantities of ofGruyère, (apartfrom from small imallquantities (apart Dutch, potV', stews, sauc€s' charcuterie,pork, sauces, stews, cheeses),charcuterie, milkcheeses), andskimmed skimmedmilk and fats may be following the quantities of Small fried foods. fried foods. Small quantities of the following fats may be oil,sunfiower sunflower saffron oil, oil,saffron walnutoil, oil,walnut soyaoil, comoil, oil,soya eaten:corn eaten: from first pressing' oilfrom oliveoil virginolive alsovirgin andalso grapeseedoil, oil,and oil,grapeseed oil, first pressing.

sweetbread yolk

,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,,

It

241 241

CHOPE CHOPE Allowed. Grilld roasted red (inmoderation), redmeats meats(in moderation), Allowed. Grilled ororroasted fish. fish. Recommended. Vegetables (French beans, endive, spinach, Recommended. Vegetables (French beans, endive, spinach, celery, leeks, beetroot, carrots, carrots, tomatoes, tomatoes,aubergines, aubergines, ail all celery, leeks, beetroot, types of green salad vegetables, asparagus, sorrel, onions, vegetables, asparagus, sorrel, onions, types of green salad artichokes, melon, cucumber, radishes, potatoes), all kinds artichokes, melon, cucumber, radishes, potatoes), ail kinds of fruit (but not walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and almonds). of fruit (but not walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and almonds). CHOPE Goblet of glass or earthenware, containing about ofglass CHOPE -- Goblet or earthenware, containing about litre (12fl. oz.), used for beer. t] litre (12 ft. oz.), used for beer.

CHOPINE- Old measure measureforwine, (lgft.fl.oz.). equal to totIlitre oz.). CHOPINE- Old for wine, equal litre (18 CHOPPING. sr,cnlcr - French term for chopping food is CHOPPING. HACHAGE - French term for chopping food is hachage or hachement. hachage or hachement. Hachage can also mean food which has been chopped, as Hachage can also mean food which has been chopped, as in onion hachage, though the more common word ii hachis. the more corn mon word is hachis. in onion hachage, though Meat is chopped on a chopping block, usually made of Meat is chopped on a chopping block, usually made of cross-grained planks set upright in a wooden frame. The cross-grained planks set upright in a wooden frame. The chopping blocks or tables must not be washed with water but chopping blocks or tables must not be washed with water but scraped with special scraper, thoroughly dried with sawscraped with aa special scraper, thoroughly dried with sawdust, and then rubbed clean. dust, and then rubbed c1ean.

sq uo'ine'ho,Hlllil"lto bakin gIray trav Squeezing cbou paSle onlO baking

(Larousse)

Choux or puffs ài la or cream cream puffs la ChantilJy. Chantilly. CHOUX cHorrx ÀA LA Choux ra CHANcnaNrPrepare and and cook cook as as for for Choux Choux or or cream puffs àd lata cream puffs - Prepare (see below). crime (see below). Leave Leave them them to to cool, cool, split split and crème and fill fill with with (see CREA Chantilly cream cream (see CREAMS) flavoured with with vanilla. vanilla. Chantilly MS) ftavoured Chocolate choux choux or or cream cream puffs. puffs. CHOUX cnoux AU AU CHOCOLAT Chocolate cHocolAr -Prepared in in the the same same way way as as Coffee Coffee choux choux or puffs or cream Prepared cream puffs (see below). below). (see Coffee choux choux or or cream puffs. CHOUX cream puffs. cnoux AU lu CAFÉ cmn -_ FiJI Coffee Fill the the cooked puffs puffs with with French pasty cream French pastry (see CREAMS) cream (see cooked CREAMS) flavoured with with coffee coffee essence. essence. Glaze Glaze with with sugar ftavoured sugar ftavoured flavoured with coffee. coffee. with Choux or or cream puffs àA la cream puffs la crème. crime. CHOUX cHoux ÀA LA Choux m CRÈME cntm -When the puffs are the puffs are cold, cold, slit slit them them on on one one si side When de and and fill fill with with French pastry (see CREA cream (see CREAMS). French pastry cream MS). Close Close the puffs and the puffs and sprinkle with with icing sugar. sprinkIe pufrs ài la Ia frangipane. frangipane. CHOUX Choux or cream puffs cHor.x À A LA r,c, FRANGInnaNcrIANE -- The The same same as as Choux Choux or or cream puffs àd la PANE la crème, crime, with with Frangipane (see CREAMS). creom (see Frangipane cream Glazed choux choux or or cream prffs. CHOUX cream puffs. cuoux GLACÉS Glazed GLAcEs -- Ordinary puffs cream or any other other filling, and and glazed with puffs filled filled with with cream witir sugar cooked cooked to (see SUGAR, crack degree degree (see SUGAR, Sugar sugar to the the crack boiling). bOiling). Choux cream puffs Choux or or cream puffs Montmorency. Montmorency. cHorlx CHOUX MoNTMoRENcy MONTMORENCY -- Made crime. Fill the puffs, Made like like Choux or cream puffs d à Ia la crème. when pastry iream when cold, cold, with with a mixture mixture of of cherrie cherriess and Frenchpastry cream and French (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured ftavoured with with cherry brandy. Choux Choux or or cream cream puffs puffs ià la la normande normande -- cnoux CHOUX iÀ rl LA NoRMANDB NORMANDE -- Choux filled filled with with a a stiff apple apple pur6e purée mixed with with a a third third of of its its weight of of French pastry pastry ueam cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured fiavoured with with calvados. calvados.

BABTNEs - Slang name for lips of some animals, 'CHOPS'. BABINES 'CHOPS'. - Slang name for Iips of sorne animaIs, such as dogs or monkeys. The expression'to lick one's chops' such as dogs or monkeys. The expression 'to lick one's chops' indicates satisfaction at a good dish. indicates satisfaction at a good dish.

TILLY TILLY

CHOPSTICKS. BAGUETTES sacuerrEs -- The The 'fork' 'fork' of of the Far East, the Far East, CHOPSTICKS. indispensable to an Asian meal, made in ivory, ebony, or indispensable to an Asian meal, made in ivory, ebony, or plastic. The Chinese call them 'lively fellows'. They are not plastic. The Chinese cali them 'Iively fellows'. They are not difficult to to manipulate manipulate and and can can be be adapted adapted to to the the requirerequiredifficult ments of various dishes. They are used, for example, to pick ments of various dishes. They are used, for example, to pick up pieces of food, also to push rice into the mouth whenever up pieces of food, also to push rice into the mouth whenever it is permitted to raise the bowl to chin level. it is permitted to raise the bowl to chin level.

CHORON-- Chef Chef de de cuisine cuisine of of the the Voisin Voisin restaurant. restaurant. CHORON (Pastry) CHOU Bun made with chou which is is CHOU (pastry) -- Bun made with chou pastry, pastry, which pushed through a forcing (pastry) bag onto a metal baking pushed through a forcing (pastry) bag onto a metal baking tray. The chou, chou, which which is either served served as it is, is, or oi tray. The is round, round, is is either as it stuffed some other stuffed with with cream cream or or sorne other preparation. preparation. Chou Chou pastry pastry or or cream cream puffpastry. puff pastry. pArs,\ PÂTE À cHou CHOU - Ordinary Ordinary chou pastry is made as follows: chou pastry is made as follows: Ingredients. Ingredients. I1 litre litre (If, (1 i pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water, water, 375 g. (13 oz., generous l{ cups) butter, 500 g. (lB oz., 4! 375 g. (13 oz., generous 11 cups) butter, 500 g. (18 oz., 41 cups) tabletablespoon salt, salt, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz, oz., 2 2 tablecups) sifted sifted flour, ftour, I1 tablespoon spoons) spoons) sugar, sugar, 16 16 eggs; eggs; I1 tablespoon tablespoon orange orange blossom blossom water water or or I1 teaspoon teaspoon orange orange extract. extract. Method. Method. Boil Boil the the water, water, butter, butter, salt salt and and sugar sugar together together in in aa deep deep flat-bottomed ftat-bottomed pan. pan. When When the the mixture mixture boils, boils, remove rem ove pan from the heat and pour in the sifted flour. Mix well. the the pan from the heat and pour in the sifted ftour. Mix weil. Dry Dry out out the the mixture mixture over over a a low low heat, heat, working working it it with with aa wooden wood en spoon spoon until until itit comes cornes away away from from the the sides sides of of the the pan pan and and oils oils aa little. little. Add Add the the eggs, eggs, off off the the heat, heat, two two at at aa time, time, stirring stirring vigorously, vigorously, and and then then the the flavouring. ftavouring. Various Various cakes cakes such such as as 6clairs, éclairs, Jacob's Jacob's ladders. ladders, SaintSaintHonorC, are made made with with this this pastry, pastry, as as are are Honoré, profiteroles, profiteroles, are soufl6 soufflé fritters. fritters. Cooking Cooking the the choux choux or or cream cream puffs. puffs. onEssAcE DRESSAGE Er ET curssoN CUISSON DEs cHor.x - Put the mixture through a forcing-bag onto a DES CHOUX - Put the mixture through a forcing-bag onto a buttered buttered baking baking tray, tray, allowing allowing aa space space between between each. each. Make Make them them the the size size of ofaa walnut walnut or or smaller smaller ififthey they are are to to be be used used as as profiteroles. profiteroles. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen at at (400'F., 200"C. Gas Mark 6) for 15 200°C. (400°F., Gas Mark 6) for 15 minutes. minutes. When When cold, cold, these buns are filled with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) these buns are filled with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) or orwith withany anyother otherfilling, filling, according accordingto to the therecipe. recipe. Chorx Chouxororcream creampuffs puffsiàlalac6venole. cévenole.cHoux CHOUXAÀra LAcfvrNorn CÉVENOLE-These are made like Choux or ueen These are made like Choux or cream Wffs puffs dà la la udme crème (see (see below). When below). Whencold, cold,fill fill with withaa pur6e purée of ofchestnuts chestnutsmixed mixed with with whipped whipped cream cream and and flavoured ftavoured with with kirsch. kirsch.

Plate Plate of of cream cream puffs puffs

CHRISTMAS. CHRISTMAS. Ndnr NOEL -- In ln the the fourth fourth century century Pope Pope Julius Julius I1 fixed fixed 25 25 December December as as the the date date on on which which the the birtl birth of of Christ Christ

was was to to be be celebrated. celebrated. In ln France, France, the the main main Christmas Christmasmeal meal isis served served on on the the night night 242 242

CINNAMON

CINNA MON

24 to to 25 25 December, December, after after the the celebration celebration of of Midnight Midnight ofof24 Mass.This Thismeal mealisiscalled called the thereveillonreveil/on . Mass.

Themenu menu for forthe thereveillon reveiflonand and for forChristmas ChristmasDay Dayitself itself-The essentiallyaafamily family celebration celebration-- must mustinclude includedishes dishes which which essentially ri tuaisignificance. significance.Even Evenififthe thereveillon reveiflonmenu menu includes includes haveaaritual have various expensivedelicacies delicaciessuch suchas/oiegras, asfoie gras,truffies, truffies,game gameofofvarious expensive kinds,rare rarefish fishand andshellfish, shellfish,ititmust mustalso alsoinclude, include,inindeference deference kinds, tradition, aa black black or orwhite whitepudding, pudding, sometimes sometimes both, both, and and tototradition, goose or or turkey turkey with with chestnuts, chestnuts, often often enriched enriched with with aa goose truffies. truffies. In Britain, Britain, Christmas Christmas Day Day isis celebrated ceJebrated with with even even more more In gastronomic splendour splendour than than in in France. France . gastronomic 'For many many of of the the islanders,' islanders,' wrote wrote Alfred Alfred Suzanne Suzanne in in his his 'For book /a la Cuisine Cuisine anglaise anglaise et et americaine, americaine, 'this 'this anniversary anniversary isis book memorable (apart (apart from from all ail religious religious significance) significance) because because itit memorable slaughter of of turkeys, turkeys, geese geese and and all ail kinds kinds of of evokes ua great gr"ai slaughter evokes game, aa wholesale wholesale massacre massacre of offat fat oxen, oxen, pigs pigs and and sheep' sheep. They They game, envisage garlands garlands ofblack of black puddings, puddings, sausages sausages and and saveloys saveloys Invisage mountains of of plum-puddings plum-puddings and and ovens-full ovens-full of of mincemince.. .. .. mountains pies . .. .. .. pies. that day day no-one no-one in in England may may go hungry. hungry . '. '. '. This is is 'On that 'On family gathering gathering and and on on every table table the the same menu menu is is a family prepared . A A joint of of beef, a turkey turkey or goose' goose, which is usually pr.pated. sausages, and de iesistance, résistance, accompanied accompanied by byaa ham, ham, sausages, the pièce de ihe'piice and the game; then then follow follow the the inevitable plum-pudding and game; mince pies.' famous mince

Insect common to southern countries. CICADA. CICADA. cIGALE CIGALE -- Insect common to southern countries. cicadas

were very fond of According Accordingto to Aristotle, Aristotle, the theGreeks Greeks were very fond of cicadas larvae. and their and their larvae. Fermented drink with an apple base' It was CIDER. CIDER. cIDRE CIDRE-- Fermented drink with an apple base. It was in the thirteenth century already already being being made made in in Normandy Normandy in the thirteenth century Charlemagne. Special and and isis mentioned mentioned in in the the Chronicles Chronicles of of Charlemagne. Special which have given a tart, and acid, sweet, are used, apples apples are used, sweet, acid, and tart, which have given a where they grow. There districts of the cider to the reputation reputation to the cider of the districts where they grow. There is made with sweet aie are early early and and late late species. species. A A good good cider cider is made with {t sweet ripening apples-are apples apples and and $J sour sour and and acid acid apples. apples. Early Early ripening apples are the rest should be put put in in the the press press as as soon soon as as they they are are ready; ready; the rest should be heaps at the foot oftrees. in not and in attics, itored stored in attics, and not in heaps at the foot of trees. put in a press. The marc The The apples apples are are crushed crushed and and put in a press. The marc juice pressed out) is (what (what isis left left of of the the fruit fruit after after the the juice has has been been pressed out) is sprinkled sprinkled with with water water and and pressed pressed aa second second time. time. way as with wine. Fermentation Fermentation is is started started in in the the same same way as with wine. and the same same diseases Cider Cider is is subject subject to to the the same diseases as as wine, wine, and the same remedies remedies can can be be applied applied to to it. it.

of cider: sweet commercial brands There There are are different different commercial brands of according to or not, sparkling or cider, sparkling cider and cider and bottled bottled cider, not, according to fercomplete ferafter complete or after bottled before has been been bottled whether whether it it has before or less alcoholic and less drink and refreshing drink It isis aa refreshing cask.. It in cask mentation mentation in alcoholic wine. than wine. than cider:

sweet

Chub (J. Boyer) Boyer) Chnb(J.

long CHUB. with aa long fish with Freshwater fish cHEvEsNE -- Freshwater cI{EVAINE, CHEVESNE CHUB. CHEVAINE, opening' spindly body, ventral opening. the ventral fin set set below below the dorsal fin the dorsal body, the spindly nab, The , nab , coheven, in English, English, coheven called in chub, called The- common common chub, bot/ing, , chabot, chavanne, chabot, chavanne, cabot, meunier, cabot French, meunier, and inin French, botlW, and of size of tes/ard, reaches aa size sometimes reaches etc.sometimes caboda,etc. rotisson, caboda, testai, rotisson, 50 (20 inches). inches). cm. (20 50 cm. and In blackfinand longjaw, black.fin the longjaw, known asas the chubs, known In U.S.A. U.S.A. chubs, the bloater, LakeSuperior Superior isisthe Lakes. Lake Great Lakes. theGreat are found found inin the bloater, are source fin, which used chubused theonly onlychub whichisisthe blackfin, of the the black most of of most source of extensively fish.. freshfish asfresh extensivelyas Ali .v.) (a(afish fishbelonging belongingtoto f6ra(g(q'v.) for the theféra given for recipesgiven therecipes All the the also fishisisalso Thisfish chub.This applicable totochub. areapplicable famitil are salmon family) the salmon used malelote (g(q.v.). .v.) . thematelote inthe used in

CHUTNEY made whichisismade origin which Indianorigin CondimentofofIndian CHUTNEY- - Condiment garlic, comrriercially. raisins,garlic, seededraisins, withseeded pur6emade madewith commercially. IlItisisaapurée shallots,pimentos, vinegar' andvinegar. sugarand mustard,brown brownsugar apple,mustard, shallots, pimentos,apple, Bring t pints, th9 vinegartotothe quart)white whitevinegar generousquart) pints,generous litre(1(l* Bring1ilitre boil. sliced' andsliced. peeledand apples,peeled (3+lb.) lb.)cooking cookingapples, ke.(3{ AddItUkg. boil.Add Cook (18 oz., sugar, brownsugar, cups)brown oz',2t2|cups) 500g.g'(18 add500 andadd themand Cookthem 2525g. (1 oz., t cup) finely chopped chillis, 200 g.g.(7(7oz., oz',lill e. 0 oz., I cup) finely chopped chillis, 200 cups) chopped, (18oz., finelychopped, cups)finely oz.,3 3cups) 500g.g.(18 iaisins,500 seededraisins, cups)seeded preserved 2 cups) preserved dicedpreserved (18oz., cups)diced o2.,2 peel,500 500g.g.(18 preservedlemon lemonpeel, ginger, shed garlic salt, teaspoonssalt, with4 4teaspoons Seasonwith garlicc1oves. cloves.Season grnger,2 2cru crushed 125 g. (4(4oz., (toz., 2 tablegrains,and and1515g.g.(toz.,2table' mustardgrains, cup)mustard oz.,1 tcup) 7Z{e. spoons) (18oz.) oz') 500g.g.(18 add500 possible,add ginger.IfIfpossible, powderedginger. spoons)powdered preserved glass warmglass intowarm Putinto minutes.Put for8 8minutes. Cookfor pi"seru"dmangoes. mangoes.Cook jars jarswhile andseal. seal. hot,and whilehot, Ordinary caps screwcaps jarswith ringsand andscrew rubberrings withrubber bottlingjars Ordinarybottling are best. are best.

press for cider Applepress Apple for eider

CHEESE. SeeCHEESE. LUCHON- -See DELUCHON CIERPDE CIERP mealinina a offa ameal roundsoff Tobacco CIGARETTE CIGAR, CIGAR, CIGARETTE - -Tobacco rounds even beforeoro^reven Smokingbefore likeil.it.Smoking wholike forthose thosewho pleasant way wayfor pleasant taste' senseofoftaste. thesense destroysthe anddestroys heresyand mealisisaaheresy themeal duringthe during altogether' glveup smokingaltogether. upsmoking havetotogive tastershave Profeisionaltasters Professional The tree'The cinnamontree. thecinnamon Barkofofthe ceNNulre- -Bark CINNAMON.CANNELLE CINNAMON. resemble whichresemble barkwhich kindsofofbark giventotoother otherkinds alsogiven nameisisalso name speciesisis medicinalspecies Theonly onlymedicinal flavour.The smellororftavour. cinnamonininsmell cinnamon fgrm theform shopsininthe theshops foundininthe whichisisfound cinnatnonwhich Ceyloncinnamon theCeylon the andupuptoto1 Im.m' diameterand cm.(t(1inch) about1 1cm. sticks,about thinsticks, ofofthin inch) inindiameter each piecesofofbark, bark,each rolledpieces consistingofofrolled yard)ininlength, length,consisting (1(lyard) easily colour,easily yellowinincolour, thick.ItItisisyellow inch;thick. abouti imm. about --. (io(6inch) hot sweet,hot fine,sweet, veryfine, anda avery aromaand spicyaroma witlia aspicy breakable,with breakable, taste. taste. shorter, foundininshorter, (Cassialignea) lignea)is isfound cinnamon(Cassin TheChinese Chinesecinnamon The yellowish bark,yellowish rolledbark, layerofofrolled onelayer formedofofone sticks,formed thickersticks, thicker easily spots,easily blackspots, fewbrown brownororblack witha afew colour,with brown browninincolour, taste' andtaste aromaand pleasantaroma less witha aless butwith breakable pleasant . breakablebut cinnamon Powderedcinna oil:Powdered volatileoil: containsa avolatile Cinnamoncontains Cinnamon mon is is adulterated' andadulterated. qualitybark barkand inferiorquality frominferior madefrom often oftenmade (withthetheessential oils essentialoils dried(with sometimesdried aresometimes sticksare Cinnamon cinnamonsticks practiceis is fraudulentpractice suchfraudulent butsuch sold,but beingsold, beforebeing extracted) extracted)before rare. rare.

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CINNAMONE

CINNAMONE

CITRON.CÉDRAT cfDRAr- -Species Speciesofoflemon lemonwith witha avery verythick thick CITRON. coruscatedskin, skin,cultivated cultivatedononthe theMediterranean Mediterraneancoast. coast. coruscated perfumedand, highlyperfumed and,unlike unlikethe theordinary ordinarylemon lemonoror ltItisishighly orange,isisseldom seldomeaten eateninina anatural naturalstate. state.Because Becauseofofitsits orange, thickskin skinititisischiefly preserved,and chieflypreserved, andisismuch muchused usedinincakecakethick makingand andconfectionery. confectionery. making Corsica, where1titisiswidely widelycultivated, cultivated,a aliqueur liqueurcacalled sica, where lied lnInCor cidratine isismade madewith withthe thefruit. fruit. cédratine CITRONELLA. CITRONELLE cnnoNsr,r.s- -Common Commonname namefor forCollinCollinCITRONELLA. soniacanadensis, canadensiJ, aacoarse plantofthe coarseplant of themint mintfamily. family.ItItexudes sonia exudes penetratingscent, scent,rather ratherlike likelemon. lemon.The Theleaves leavesare areused usedfor for aapenetrating seasoning. Digestive Digestive liqueurs liqueursare aremade fromitsitsflowers. madefrom seasoning. flowers.

CITRUS AURANTIUM AURANTIUM (Seville (Sevilleorange). orange).BIGARADIER, BTcARADTER, CITRUS stclnlos - -Species Speciesof bitterorange ofbitter orangeused usedininconfectionery confectioneryand arid BIGARADE distillingcertain certainliqueurs liqueursand anddrinks. drinks. ItItisisused usedinincookery cookery inindistilling for spicing spicing various various sauees game, inin particular saucesfor particularfor for game, foi for waterfowl, and andalso forma alsofor making bitter orange orange marmalade. marmalade. waterfowl, king bitter green leaves Thegreen principally used leavesare areprincipally (see usedas asan aninfusion infusion(see The TTSANE). TISANE). The flowers, flowers, or or orange orange blossoms, blossoms, are are used inconfectionery, confectionery, usedin The pharmaceutics and perfumery (distilled and perfumery (distilled orange orange blossom pharmaceutics blossom water, essenceofneroli). essenc€ of neroli). water, CITRUS FRUIT. FRUIT. AGRUMES AGRUMEs - - Collective Collective noun noun for CITRUS for oranges, oranges, lemons, tangerines, grapefruit and tangerines, grapefruit and other cultivated Rutaceae. other cultivated lemons, Rutaciae. CITRUS MEDICA MEDICA -- See See AIGRE AIGRE DE DE CÈDRE. CEDRE. CITRUS

Cinnamon

trees Cinnamon trees

CMT-Word mainly used used for forragodls game, which CIVET - Word mainly ragoûtsoffurred of furred game, which are moistened moistened with with red red wine, wine, garnished garnished with are with small small onions, onions, lardoons and and mushrooms, mushrooms, and and combined, combined, when lardoons when cooked, cooked, with the the blood blood of of the the animal animal in question. This in question. with This liaison liaison with with blood is is essential essential to to the the dish. dish. blood The name preparation cornes name of of this this preparation The comes from from the the word word cive cive (green onion) onion) because because the the dish dish was was flavoured (green flavoured with with these these onions. It can can be be made made with with any any furred furred game, game, and It and also also with with feathered or fowl. fowl. There There are feathered game or are even civets de even civets fu viandes viandes in in some districts, and and spiny lobster civets sorne civets in in Languedoc. Languedoc. Civet ofhare of hsre -- See HARE. Civet Civet of spioy spiny lobster lobster -- See See SPINY Civet of SpINy LOBSTER, LOBSTER, Spiny Spdny .lobster /obster stew.

CINNAMONE

Old name name for for aa spice spice which which isis probably probably CINNAMONE -- Old

cinnamon (cannelle). cinnamon (cannelle). CISELER French term for superficial incisions on the back CISELER -- French term for superficial incisions on the back of a fish to hasten its cooking. Also applied to the slicing of of a fish to hasten its cooking. Also applied to the slicing of any kind of leafy herb which is to be cut up into jutinne any kind of leafy herb which is to be cut up into julienne (q.v.) strips or into a chffinnade (q.v.). (q.v.) strips or into a chiffonnade (q.v.). CITRIC ACID. CITRIQUE crrRreuE -- Organic Organic acid acid found found in great in aa great CITRIC ACID. many fruits (lemons, oranges, gooseberries, gooseberries, raspberries, raspbeiries, many fruits (lemons, oranges, etc.) and some other plants. It is extracted from lembn juice; etc.) and sorne other plants. It is extracted from lemon juice, or it is prepared commercially by fermentatio-n of glucose. Ii or it is prepared commercially by fermentation of glucose. It appears in large fragile crystals, with an'agreJable appears in large fragile crystals, with an ·agreeable acid flavour, dry, but and is is soluble soluble in in water. water. It It keeps keeps well weil when when dry, flavour, and solutions of citric acid are rapidly invaded by moulds. solutions of citric acid are rapidly invaded by mou Ids. Citric is used used for for making making lemonade lemonade ind and also also orange orange Ci tric acid acid is and and lemon lem on syrups, syrups, etc. etc. Citric Citric acid acid syrup syrup -- See See SYRUp. SYRUP.

CLAFOUTI -- Fruit Fruit pastry or thick fruit pancake CLAFOUTI pancake from the Limousin, Limousin, usually made with black cherries. cherries. 125 g. generous cup) oz., generous g. (4+ (4t oz., Ingredients. 125 cup) flour, flour, 22 eggs, eggs, - -Ingredients. 100 100 g. g. q (4 oz., scant cup) cup) powdered sugar, haliof half ofwhich which is kept kep; to sprinkle sprinkle over over the fruit, fruit, 2 dl. (| (t pint, scant cup) boiled mili
-

- Cream Cream not not only only contains of fat, fat, used used for for butter, butter, but but also also aa proporproporcontains globules globules of tion of water, water, casein, casein, lactose lactose and and mineral minerai salts salts (see (see MILK). M ILK). tion of There There is is a a difference difference between between single single cream cream which which is is obtained obtained by by skimming skimming milk milk that that has has been been left left to to settle settle in in shallow shallow bowls, bowls, and and which which contains contains 10 10 to to 20 20 per per cent cent butter, butter, and obtained by by aa separating separating machine maclùne and double double cream, cream, which which isis obtained and 30 per per cent cent butter. butter. Possible Possible and which which must must contain contain at at least least 30 adulterants adulterants are are starch, starch, fecula fecula (potato (potato flour) flour) and and gelatine. gelatine. These to detect detect as as they they give give the the cream cream aa mealy mealy or or These are are easy easy to gluey gluey flavour. flavour. Since is largely largely composed composed of of fatty fauy substances, substances, Since cream cream is sufferers sufferers from from liver liver complaints cornplaints should should not not eat eat it. il. Ilealthy Healthy people people should should use use itit sparingly. sparingly.

CREAM (from (from milk). milk). cniMe CRÈME DU DU LAIr LAIT CREAM

CREAM CREAM CHEESES. CHEESES. FRoMAGEs FRO~AGES AÀ r.l, LA cnirran CRÈME -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CREAM CREAM HORNS HORNS AÀ T,^q. LA CHIBOUST. CHIBOlJST. coRNETs CORNETS nnulLreT6s FEUILLETÉS AÀ r,l Ingredients (for LA cntrr,m, CRÈME, olrs [)ITS AÀ LA LA cHrBousr CHIBOUST --Ingredients (for 12 12 cornets). cornets).

500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz.) oz.) Puff Puff pastry pas/ry (see (see DOUGH), DOUGH), 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., generous cup) fine fine sugar, sugar. 55 egg egg yolks,4 yolks, 4 egg egg whites, whites. 50 50 g.g. generous *1cup) (2 (2 oz.,* oz., -1 cup) cup) flour, flour,! litre (scant (scant pint,2l pint, 2! cups) cups) milk, milk,! vanilJa ] litre I vanilla pod or aa few few drops drops vanilla vanilla essence essence and and aa pinch pioch salt. saIL pod or pastry (see M e thod. Make Melhod. Make the the pastry pastry as as for for Puff PlJffpas/rY (see DOUGH) DOUGH) and and roll roll itit out out 22 mm. mm. (t (~. inch) inch) thick. thick. Cut CUI into into 12 12 strips, strips, 33 crr1. cm. (l(1 inch) inch) wide wide and and 25 25 cm. (10 (10 inches) inches) long. long. Roll Roll these these strips strips

round round cornet cornet moulds. moulds. Arrange weI baking baking sheet; sheet; leave leave for for l0 10 Arrange the the cornets cornets on on aa wet minutes. minutes. Brush Brush them them with with egg egg and and bake bake in in aa hot hot oven oven for for 12 12 to to l5 15 minutes. minutes. When When nearly nearly cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with with icing icing sugar, sugar, glazs, of the oven oven as as soon soon as as they they glisten. glisten. glaze, and and take take them them out out ofthe The The cream. cream. The The base base of of this this preparation preparation is is the the CrCme Crème phtissiire pâtissière (French (French pastry pastry cream). cream). Put Put the the sieved sieved flour, flour, sugar sugar and in aa pan. pan. Add Add the the egg egg yolks yolks and and whip whip until until the the and salt salt in mixture smooth. mixture isis smooth. Moisten Moisten with with the the milk, milk, which which has has been been boiled boiled with with t vanilla vanilla pod. pod. Mix Mix carefully carefully and and cook cook on on aa good goocl heat, heat, beating beating

I

285 285

CREAMS Add melted Chocolate cream cream II. n. cnirun CRÈME AU AU cHocoI-lr CHOCOLAT -- Add melted pint,2l Custard cream (see cups) Cuszard (seant pint, 2t cups) (see chocolate to 1-] litre (scant below). egg yolks, L'ANGLersr -- Work 88 egg Custard cream. cniMs CRÈME A À L'ANGLAlSE 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) fine sugar, and and a small pinch of until the salt in over a salt in a a pan with with aa spatula, over a gentle heat, heat, untîl is lifted. mixture forms ribbons lifted. Moisten Moisten ribbons when the the spatula is gradually (scant pint, dl. (seant 5 dl. pint, 2f, cups) cups) boiled boi!ed milk, gradually with with 5 flavoured, lemon or orange orange according to ftavoured, aeeordÎng ta taste, with vanilla or lemon zest. all the time, Mix well. weiL Keep the pan pan on the heat, heat, stirring ail lime, until the AI this this point point the the custard until the contents almost almost boil. boil. At cling to the spatula. should c1ing Pass the cuslard custard through through a fine sieve and keep it warm in a bain-marie (double boiler) if required to to accompany aa hot pudding, and keep in lum it il out ouI into inlo a basin and În a cool place pudding, or turn it should be if to case, il be served cold. cold. In In the latter lat 1er case, be stirred ta be while cooling to 10 prevent prevenl a skin forming. This custard can be made more cheapl)' cheaply by using fewer egg yolks (6 instead of of 8) and by adding to the egg yolk and sugar mixture aa teaspoon teaspoon of arrowroot or fecula fecula (corn (corn or potato consistency to the the custard and starch). This gives a thicker thieker eonsistency prevents it allowed to overheat. il from clotting if alJowed addition of gelatine, for It is cold, with the Il is used used cold, the addition for cold (q.v.), Rice such as as bavarois bavarois (q.v.), charlottes (q.v.), sweets, (q.v.), charlottes Rice àd sweets, such 1>Vl:nérn"·,rp (see RICE), etc. I'impiratrice A L'auctAIss coI-rEr gelatine. CRÈME L'ANGLAISE COLLÉECustard cream with gelatine. cRiME À (desserts). Prepare the custard as Used cold sweels sweets (desserts). Used for for cold the custard (l oz.) g. (1 25 g, above. When When it add 25 it is is cooked, add described described above. in cold cold water. Sli!" Stir while soaked in while it gelatine which which has has been soaked the custard, dissolves. Strain S'rain Ihe custard. and stir while it cools. Custard cream with with liqueurs. liqueurs. CRÈME À L'lucLAIsE l'ANGLAISE AUx AUX Custard cream cRiiME A in the same way LIeUEURs Prepare the custard cream cream in LIQUEURS -- Prepare the same way as gelatrne. When When it is cool, creamwith cool, add a tablespoon Custard creom Cuslard with ge/mine. kirsch, maraschino, of liqueur: Curagao, kirsch. of ligllel!!" Curaçao, maraschi no. rum, ru m. etc. MIRoIR -- Custard cream au au miroir. cRiME AU AU MIROlR Custard cream Custard miroir. CRÈME glazed wilh cream glazed with a salamander salamander or hot hOI poker. cream pouR FOURRER filling for wafres 1. I. cniuE POUR FoURRER cream filling Custard cream Custard for waffles (9 oz g. (9 generous cup) butter, LEs cAUFRES - Whip 250 250 g. oz., .. generous g. (7 oz I cup) praline 250 g. (9 o2.,2 cups) icing sugar, 200 g. oz., .. 1 in use as as a m aa slightly warmed basin. When well weIl blended, blended, use filling filhng for waffies. filling for wames wafres n. II. CRÈME cninas pouR FoURRER Custard cream filliog Custard POUR FOURRER (9 oz"' g. (9 LEs cAUFREs -- Cook Cook 250 250 g. o2.,22 cups) lump sugar and LES GAUFRES ball I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, reaches the bal! scant 1 tablespoons, seant * cup) water till it reaches (see SUGAR). Skim and Put 15 15 egg and strain Ihe the syrup. Put stage (see letting ilit fall syrup over them, letting yolks in a basin. Pour the sugar syrllp in a thin thread. Mix. Add 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter (7 oz" g. (7 cup) praline, worked into aa cream. cream. Add Add 200 g. oz., 1I Clip) worked into beating all the time. beating ail is given for these creams, one Although praline flavouring ftavouring IS flavouring. can also use coffee, chocolate, vanilla or orange flavourîng. t'e,NGu.ISr AU lu cniw ÀA L'ANGLAISE with tea. flavoured "ith tea. CREME Custard cream flavoured Custard replacing the castard cream, cream, replacing ruf -_. Prepare Prepare llke THÉ like Mocha Mocha cus/ard coffee with aa strong infusion of tea. made by adding adding ta to the egg yolk can aiso also be custard can be made the egg The clJstard tea leaves have been infused whîch tea and sugar mixture mixture milk in which (without boiling). cream. CRÈMJ' cnurc PÂTISSIÈRE, rAnssiltnr, DIfi FRANGIDIT"E FRANGIFrangipane Frangipane pastry cream. g. (7 oz., vrvr, -Ingredienls. flour, 4 whole oz., 1 lfi cups) sifted flour. PANE - Ingredients.200 g, yolks, Il litre pints, generous generous quart) milk, eggs, 6 egg egg yolks, litre (lf pints, eggs, (2 oz., g. (2 (4 oz. g. (4 50 g. oz., f~ cup) cup) butler, butter, 100 oz. I cup) fine 50 lOQ g. fine sugar, Method. Mix the whole eggs, egg yolks, flour and sugar in in low heat. When they and form aa over low they are are smooth smooth and aa pan pan over beat. When when the spatula is lifted out of the pan add the milk milk the spalula Îs lîf!ed ribbon when and butter. Cook over the heat, stirring cootinuously continuously with and butter. Cook the heat, the spatula. the crushed crushed macaroons. Cook, Cook, stirrîng stirring spatula. Add the Add the prevent a skin fOl·ming. from time to time, to prevent forming. from

consistency. The cooking must be until undl the cream is the right eonsisteney.

rapid, not This makes the crème crime not more more than than 5 5 minutes. minutes. This makes the pdtissiire. "nl>
298 298

CURNONSKY CURNONSKY ferments. It [t isis aa result result of the casein and ferments. the precipitation of of casein contains varying proportions of butter, depending on con tains varying proportions of butter, depending whether or not the milk has previously been skimmed. When curd is obtained by action of rennet, the curd is obtained the action by the of rennet, the serum serum still contains which can can be con tains aa considerable proportion of casein, which precipitated by The serum by aa second second coagulation. coagulation. The serum of milk precipitated casein. curdled by acidification contains very little casein. as it it is cream. Curdling is is the Curd can can be Curd be eaten as is or with cream. in the manufacture of cheese (q.v.). first operation in

Sautés frying pan, cooking in a wide, shallow frying Saut6s -- Method of cooking In France these portions of food. food. In generally used used for small small portions pans are called sautoirs, sauteuses. sautoirs, plats àd sauter or sauteuses. cooking is done in heated fat, butter The cooking butter or oil. The food is seasoned butter or fat is thoroughly thoroughly heated, it is seasoned and when the butter laid fiat flat in the pan so that it is thoroughly sealed. sealed. and fillet treated in in this way are rump and meat treated Small cuts of meat and noisettes steaks, médaillons medaillons and and tournedos (beef); cutlets and veal sweetsweetand escalopes or veal chops and (mutton or lamb); veal veal chops breads. quickly as as quickly as possible Red meat meat must must be saut6ed as possible in Red be sautéed fresh butter meat can can be saut6ed in in fresh claritied be sautéed clarified butter. butter. White meat These cuts cuts are and, after after sealing, more slowly. and, may cook cook more slowly. These sealing, may sautéed saut6ed with the pan uncovered. uncovered. etc.) is size, pigeon, etc.) Saut6ed poultry (chicken of medium size, Sautéed apply as as in case of The same always jointed. jointed. The in the case same principles apply white meat. well browned on both sides and Pieces oflarger of larger poultry are weil with covered. left to cook further wi th the pan covered. pan and Serving. Sauté taken out out of the the pan Serving. be taken Saut6 dishes must be The dishes as indicated recipe. The dishes are the selected selected recipe. served indicated in in the served as fried bread into shapes. arranged with with pieces cut into shapes. After arranged pieces of fried bread cut has been diluted with cooking stock which been diluted garnishing, the which has the cooking red or white wine, white or brown stock. cream, m, is poured stock, or crea over the dish. given to various ragoûts ragottts where where the Mixed sautés saut6s -- Name given grary is not thickened with fiour. ragoftts, made up of flour. These ragoûts, gravy small pieces pieces of of boned lamb, beef, mutton or veal, are fried in butter, fat or oil. are cooked with various cooked in own stock diluted diluted with They are in their own ragoftts, and liquids, as as with and served with various with ordinary ragoûts, served with garnishes. garnishes.

CURE -- See CHEESE. CHEESE. CURÉ

CURLEW. COURLIS couRLIS - Wader, Wader, aa marsh which is is not bird which CURLEW. marsh bird highly esteemed from the culinary point of view. Cooked in rughlyesteemed as plover (q.v.). the same same way as

CURNONSKY -- Maurice Maurice Edmond Edmond Sailland, Sailland, the the future CURNONSKY October 1872. After Curnonsky, was was born l2 Octo Curnonsky, in Angers on ber 1872. bom in on 12 literature secondary school education, he went on to study literature aa secondary at the The attractio'1s attractions of journalism Sorbonne. The speedill' at the Sorbonne. journalism speedily enticed him away from aa university career, and in 1892 he career. and in 1892 enticed him away began to newspaper offices and and literary circles. circles. He to frequent newspaper made friends wherever he went.

long and and spindle-shaped CUMIN -- Plant whose whose long spindle-shaped seeds are and five-sided and dull yellow or 1light ight brown in col our. They are five-sided colour. and spicy smooth or covered with tiny hairs. They are acrid and in taste. and in in the Cumin is for seasoning and the preparation Cumin is used preparation of used for Wild cumin Bread is is also also made with cumin cumin seeds. Wild liqueurs. Bread is sometimes cheeses, Munster cheese. ses, such as Munster sometimes used in certain chee metal in r.c,ssr -- Receptacle Receptacle made of china or metaJ CUP. TASSE in various shapes and sizes, provided with a handle.

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EcslNsoN -- Official Official charged with the dut CUP-BEARER. ÉCHANSON dutyy of pouring pouring wine for aa king or other great personage. personage. cup-bearer or bouteiller de France was a The title of senior senior cup-bearer purely honorary one under Louis XIV. XIV. This This officer had had no gentlemen under rus were twenty-four gentlemen his though there were duties though command. commando armorial bearing of this office The armorial office showed two silver-gilt silver-gilt arms of the king, engraved with with the arrns king, supporting bottles engraved supporting the gradually arms of the holder of the fell gradually the office. office. His functions feU arrns into disuse, until until finally they were exercised only only at coronations, ceremonial feasts, feasts, at Communion Supper on Maundy Thursday, etc. The office itself was left vacant. etc. The was sometimes Thursday, vacant. sometimes left The last bouteiller de France under the old monarchy was the de Lamerrnary, Lamermary, appointed in in 1702. marquis de The Echansons de Paris was founded founded after after the The Échansons de Paris was the Second good wine. wine. World War. Its aim is to publicise good

(Ke-r'slone) Curnonsky at 80 years orage of age (KeyslOne) Curnonsky

On the advice of Alphonse Allais, the of one of these friends, Alphonse decided to to choose aa pseudonym. It was the young Sailland decided period of Franco-Russian "Why not Franco-Russian entente. "Why not Sky?" someperiod one suggested. He replied, 'Cur non Sky?' Sfty?' The pseudonym one had been found. had gives the Simon Arbellot, Arbellot, his biographer, gives the following Simon his biographer, life and and career career of this unrivalled princedescription of the life this unrivalled gastronomes. elect of gastronomes. 'Tracing Curnonsky's life through part of the Curnonsky's life through the the early early part century means ostentation of of the the boulevard, bou I ev ar d, century means reliving reliving all the gay ostentation and breathing air of what what is is called breathing again the the perfumed air called la /a and belle époque. ipoque. He He was was to be found found wherever wherever imagination imagination belle to be

CURAQAO -- Liqueur Liqueur made from the rind rind of Seville oranges CURAÇAO and brandy or gin. and

CURCUMA-- Indian Indian plant whose yellowish rhizome has an CURCUMA acrid and ginger. and bitter and smells flavour and saffron and and ginger. acrid bitter fiavour smells of saffron Powdered, the is used in curry powder and and English the rhizome is mustard. clIrr-e -- Precipitate or in milk or coagulum formed formed in CURD. CAILLÉ subjected to action of acidified by to the of rennet or aciditied rennet or by lactic subjected the action 299 299

CURRANT CURRANT His His friends joined joined him -- Maeterlinck in in Vergilius Maro's

triumphed triumphed over conformity. confonnity. P. P. J. J. Toulet and Jean de de Tinan were circle and were friends friends of his; his; Willy Willy invited him him into his his circJe Curnonsky collaborof his favourite Cu monsky was later later to become become one of fa vouri te collaborators. author ,Hors. Everyone knew that the old old master humorist, humorist, author of sa so many licentious licentious novels, had had the knack of surrounding surrounding himself himself with with young intellectuals intellectuals who had had fun fun ghosting for him. pe/il vieux bim bien propre propre is attributed to Curnonsky; him. Un petit Toulet of Maugis Toulet is is supposed supposed to to have have written written aa part part of Maugis en great many minage; and the the two two together together wrote a a great many nowménage; and forgotten works signed which have have a signed 'Willy', 'Willy', the the titles of which strong fin savour: des courtisanes, fin de de slbcle siècle sa vou r: le le Brtviaire Bréviaire des courtisanes. le Mitier elc. Métier d'amant, d'amanl, Jeu leu de prince, etc. 'Curnonsky 'Curnonsky was to be found wherever wherever there there was a meeting of of minds. L6on Léon Daudet, in his Souvenirs, gives gives us a picture picture of him as a regular regular visitor to Weber's, Weber's, joining joining in the debates of Forain, Maxime Dethomas, Adrien Adrien H6brard, Hébrard, Maurice Maurice de Fleury, of Marcel Fleury, while the slight, slighl, vaguely vaguely disturbing disturbing shadow shadow of Proust hovered background. He was also to be found hovered in the background. at Maxim's conversing conversing with Feydeau Feydeau and Maurice Maurice Bertrand. Bertrand. He used to join join Paul Fort occasionally in the evenings at the Closerie Closerie des des lilas, lilas, but but secretly he he preferred preferred the the poetry of George George Fourest fourest and Raoul Ponchon to symbolism. 'One travel and distant 'One day he he yielded to the temptations temptations of oftravel horizons. On his retum he he wrote wrote the account of the African expeditions of of the duc de Montpensier. Montpensier. He was to become a skilful "biographer" "biographer" of of this hunting hunting prince. He moved on to China country left China where where the the cuisine cuisine of the the country lefl an an indelible indelible imprint on his mind; he he proclaimed procJaimed it to be be the best of the world. 'This somewhat bohemian way way of life was, was, nonetheless, nonetheless, marked by a a considerable literary literary output. output. Novels, Novels, short marked by stories, collections of anecdotes anecdotes made made the stories, an an anthology, anthology, collections name a familiar familiar one one in in the press and in the na me of Curnonsky a publishing world. he wrote Une riche nature, na/ure, wor/d. For Dranem he for Charles Charles Barret, Barret, Un homme qui a bien tourni. tourne. 'Writing 'Writing was his passion. passion. And his masters? masters? First FirSI and foremost was La Bruydre, Bruyere, whose whose advice advice he he loved to 10 repeat to his young "If you wish to say it is raining, young friends: friends: "If raining. then say it isis raining." raining." Then Then Anatole Anatole France France (the (the Anatole Anatole France France of or Jacques Tournebroche Tournebroche rather than than of M. M. Bergeret), for the clarity his old-fashioned, old-fashioned, methodical methodical style. I1 have have heard clarit)' of his Curnonsky Curnonsky cry out in indignation indignalion at the the sight of of a solecism. solecism. Language Language was no mere form of of words to to him. him, 'Then came carne the gastronomic gastronomie period, together tagether with princedom dom and and public acclaim. Fifty or so so academies academics and and clubs clubs fought for his presidency and solicited his his presence at their feasts. feaSlS. "Cur" "Cur" had had always loved loved his his food. The Anjou Anjou wine and rillauds of his his childhood had trained trained his his appetite, and the rillauds and while the rue Jacob period-- so discreetly touched lOuched on by Jacob period Madame Madame Colette Colelle - seems to 10 have have been been somewhat somewhat disappointdisappointing in this this respect, respect, the Maxim Maxim and Weber Weber era era followd followed closely closely ing in on its heels. of an an epicure and heels. Later, with with the the collaboration of great great amphitryon, amphitryon, Marcel Marcel Rouff, Rouff, Curnonsky undertook undertook what amounted to Il was to this this cause cause that to a tourist tourist crusade. crusade. It he he began to ta devote devole all ail his time. ti me. I-a Ln France France gastronomique gastronomique (32 (32 volumes, interrupted in!errllpled at the twenty-eighth twenty-eighth by the death of of his collaborator) is a monument monument of erudition, and a tribute to to eollaboralor) is the soil. There are also dozens dozens of cookery cookery the richness richness of our soil. books, Jess a literary 1i tera ry than than aa gastronomic gast ronomic delight. de] ight. books, each each one no no less 'A public public referendum referendurn in May 1927 1927 crowned him him Prince of Gastronomes, Gastronomes, and there Ihere was was no no respite respite for for him him after that. tha\. He He went dünées to light light snacks, snacks, inaugurations inaugurations and and enwent from from disnies thronements, tâte-vins and and barbecues barbecues without without a a break. break. thronements, tArc-vins Wherever he went there there was was a table table laid laid ready ready for him, him, the Wherever he finest flnest wines wines placed placed at his his disposal. disposaI. 'On 23 March March 1928 he founded the Academy Academy of of GastroGastronomes, nomes, modelled on the the Acad€mie Académiejrançaise, fort Yseats seats frangaise, with forty and with symbolic symbolic titles titles ranging ranging from from Epicure Epicure to to Talleyrand. Talleyrand.

seat, Marcel Roufl Rouff in that of Honor6 Honoré de Balzac. Balzac. For himself himself seat, he chose chose the seat of of Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, in whose honour honour he gave gave an address. 'Curnonsky enjoyed enjoyed a a sprightly old old age. age. Honoured Honoured and fEted fêted wherever he went, he had the satisfaction of seeing his young disciples disciples carrying earrying on his good work and and realising the idea that was so close to 10 his heart, that oflÎnking of linking the route to tourism. He died d ied as the ta the interests interests of the good restaurant to of tourism. result of an accident ofan accident in 1956.' GROSEILLE * - There are various variOliS types of of currant, currant, CURRANT. cRosEILLE blackredcurraJ/ts, whitecurranls II'hitecurrants and and black· the best-known being redcurrants, Red and and whitecurrants whitecurrants are cliitivated in in several are cultivated currants. Red and in regions of France, notably on the outskirts outskins of Paris, Paris, and the Meuse and and Puy-de-D6me Puy-de-Dôme districts. districts. Blackcurrants Blackcurrants are the grown mainly on the COte Côte d'Or. In Dijon blackcurrants blackcurrants are to make make Cassis de de Dijon, an an internationally famous used to used liqueur. liqueur. Red and whitecurrants raw. as a dessert, but whiteeurrants can be eaten raw, a re more more commonly com monly used used in in jellies, jell ies, syrups sy rups and in various t hey are they sweets. Red Red and and whitecurrants whitecurrants are are used used at at Barle-Duc Bar-le-Duc to sweets. ma ke a jelly jelly which enjoys enjoys a great reputation. repu ta t ion. make compote. coMporE COMPOTI DE DE cRosErlrss GROSEILLES -- Wash Wash and Curra nt compote. Currant clean the currants currants and put them in io a bowl. Pour pour over over them rhem a boiling syrup cups sugar plus plus lj 11 cups water) water) boiled boiled to syrllp (2 cups tzt"c. 121e. (250.F.). (250°F.). lel/ies. Currant jam -- See JAM, JAM', Jellies. Currant Curra nt juice for fOr ices ices. rus JUs DE DE GRosETLLE GROSEILLE pouR POUR GLAcEs GLACES Currant STRAWProceed as as for for strawberrv strawberry ice iee mixture. mixture. (See (See STRA WProceed BERRY.) CAIU - Combination of spices, thoroughly dried, CURRY. cARI ground powder, and cooked slowly in clarified clarified butter, burter, ground to a powder, vegetable vegetable oil or or soured milk milk before adding adding the fish, fish, meat, Ineat, eggs or vegetables curried. The curry curry powders vegetables that are to be curried. sold in grocery shops are usually a combination combination of of fifteen Rfteen or twenty lwenty herbs, seeds and spices. Those Those who really appreciate appreciate curry spices to ta go go with curry choose choose special special combinations combinations of spices various sOllle of of which which call cali for for mild, mild, subtle subtle seasonings various dishes, some and others for hotter Orles. The strength ofa of a curry curry depends hotter ones. on how used. how much chilli ehilli is used. The principal principal ingredients ingredients of curry powder powder are are allspice, allspice, anise, anise. bay bay leaves, cinnamon, cînnamon, caraway, earaway, celery seed, seed, cloves, coriander, diU, fennel, fenugreek fenugreek (seeds coriander, cumin, curry leaves, Ieaves, dill, and leaves) ,. garlic, ginger, mace, mustard, nutmeg, nutmeg, pepper (white (whitt! and black), paprika, paprika. poppy seeds, saffron, turmeric, tunnerie, mint, cubeb berries, zedoary berries, sumach seeds, juniper juniper berries, berries, zedoary root, TOot, salt. For the the preparation of different curries curries see see MUTTON, CHICKEN. CHlCKEN. Bichique Bichîque curry curry (Cr6ole (Créole cookery). cARr CARI DE DE BIcHIeUES DlCHIQUIS -- The bichique bichique is is a minute minute fish found near near the island of of R6union. Réunion. It Il is is exported in tins and prepared as follows: Cook Cook a finely finely chopped chopped onion onion in in good good quality quaJity fat or or oil until golden. For a small tin tin of bichique add a large large peeled and seeded tomato cut eut into into tiny tillY pieces, pieces, and and I1 coffeespoon coffeespoon seeded tomato R6union Réunion saffron. Cover. Coyer, and cook for a few seconds. Pound together in in a mortar moTtar some sorne ginger, I1 clove c10ve of of garlic, a sprig of parsley, parsley, and and salt. salt. Mix Mix with with the the ingredients ingredients in in the the pan. pan. Carefully Carefully add the fish. Do not stir stir or they they may may break break as they are to soak for 20 minutes. Cover Coyer the the pan pan are very very fragile. fragile. Leave Leave to and pUI itli in in aa moderate moderalt! oven oyen for for 20 to to 25 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve with and put Rice Rice dil la criole créole (see (see RICE). RICE). Bringelle CAJU DE DE BRTNGELLES RRINGELLES -- Cut Cut Bringelle curry curry (Cr6ole (Créole cookery). cookery). cARr some sorne lean lean and fat pork pork into Înto large large cubes as for for a stew. Brown them in fat with \VÎth finely chopped onion. Add 2 teatea· them lightly in well-crushed spoons saffron, parsley, parsley, thyme, thyme, garlic, aa piece piece of ofwell-crushed spoons stem ginger ginger and and chopped tomatoes. tomatoes. Slice Sliœ aubergines aubergines into into

300 300

CUSTARD CUSTARD MARROW rounds and dip them in water slightly slightly seasoned seasoned with salt and vinegar. Drain thoroughly and put them in a saucepan with the pork. Moisten Moisten with a little olive oil and cover. coyer. Stir from time to time, crushing the aubergines aubergines with the spoon.,Allow spoon.rAllow 2| 2t hours for cooking cooking on a low flame. Serve when the sauce is thick.

CUSTARD. cniur CRÈME -- Custard is a mixture mixture of of beaten eggs and

Custard apple: a, fruit a. Section Section of offruit

milk variously variously sweetened and and flavoured, and cooked either over hot water or baked in the oven. oyen. Caramel custard. cnirvm Line a CRÈME uourfr MOULÉE AU AU cARAMET CARAMEL - Line mould with caramel and fill it with a preparation preparation of Vanilla custard a pan half-filled with custard (see below). Set the mould in a hot hot water and cook slowlv slowly in the oven. oyen.

CUSTARD MARROW. CHAYOTE cHAyorE

-

-

Vegetable, also Vegetable, also known

in France as that is is the in as brionne, brionne, that fruit of aa climbing plant the fruit belonging to to the the same family as marrows. The belonging as marrows. The custard same family marrow is a native of of Mexico Mexico and the Antilles. Its cultivation marrow notably Algeria. has spread to other hot countries, notably Algeria. The fruit of the custard marrow marrow is aa large green pear with deep ribbing. ribbing. Its Its surface is somewhat spiny. deep surface is The flesh spiny. The flesh is white, firm, homogenous, without smell or too pronounced a taste. It is prepared in many ways. Before cooking cooking it must like cardoons (q.v.), (q.v.), being be blanched or cooked au aa blanc, blanc,like quarters and first cut into quarters and trimmed trimmed into into lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped first cut into pieces. pieces.

':,S'

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Caramel custard custard Caramel CRÈME FRIrE FRITE - Put 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2{ oz., 2~- cups) cups) Fried custard. cRiIrE sifted flour in in a pan with 125 g. (4 oz.,l oz., -t cup) fine sugar, 12 12 yolks, 4 whole whole eggs eggs and and a a small pinch of salt. Moisten Moisten egg yolks, with I1 litre (lf (li pints, pints, generous generous quart) milk which which has been with boiled with with a vanilla vanilla pod. Add 50 50 g. (2 oz., f,J cup) cup) butter. butter. Mix boiled well and and cook on the the stove stove in the the same same way as French French pastr)) pastry well cream (see CREAMS), CREA MS), stirring all ail the time. Spread Spread out this cream on a buttered baking baking sheet in an even layer, layer, about 55 mm. mm. (+ Ci inch) thick, thick, and and leave to cool. Cut Cut into pieces pieces and dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. boiling fat. fat. Drain the pieces, dry them on a Fry in deep boiling sprinkle with powdered powdered sugar. sugar. Serve Serve with Apricot cloth, and sprinkle sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with liqueur. liqueur. sauce Vanilla custard. cRiME CRÈME uourEn MOULÉE A À rn LA v.rNrI-m VANILLE _. Dissolve Yanilla g. (4 oz., *t cup) sugar in {1 litre (scant pint, 2} 2J cups) cups) 100 g. boiled milk. milk. Add Add t,! vanilla pod, and leave to infuse infuse for 20 boiled minutes. Pour this, this, little !ittle by little, over 2 whole eggs eggs and 4 minutes. yolks which which have have been been beaten beaten together together in a basin. basin. Mix egg yolks well and and strain. Remove Remove the froth froth which which forms on the surface surface well of the the cream. cream. of Fill a a charlotte charlotte mould mould with the the mixture mixture and and cook in in a Fill bain-marie in the the oven. oyen. Let it cool thoroughly thoroughly before before turning bain-marie out. itit out.

Custard marrows marrows Custard

Custard marrows marrows in b6chanel béchamel sauce. sauce. cHAyorEs CHA YOTES AU BLANc BLANC Custard in the the same sa me way way as as Custard marrows d à la Prepared in h crème crime (see (see below) but moistened moistened with with Bdchamel Béchamel sauce (see (see SA UCE) SAUCE) place of of fresh fresh cream. cream. in place au jus. jus. cHAyorEs CHA YOTES snA.rsfns BRAISÉES eu AU Braised custard marrows au JUS - Trim into lozenge lozenge shapes and and blanch in boiling salted JUs water. Drain. Put them in a buttered pan lined with strips of bacon rind rind and sliced carrots and onions. Season. Season. Cover Coyer with bacon consommé from which not all ail the fat has been been skimmed, a consomm6 reduced to aa and cook with the lid on. When the liquor is reduced glaze add a few tablespoons rich brown brown veal stock. Simmer. Simmer. Drain the custard custard marrows marrows and pour pour over over them them aa sauce sauce made Drain the liquor remaining remaining in in the the pan, pan, adding by boiling down the butter and straining straining through through a sieve. sieve. butter Custard marrows with butter. cHAyorEs CHAYOTES AU BEURRE - Cut BEURRE marrows into into large large lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped pieces. Cook Cook the custard marrows in White White court-bouillon court-bouillon for for vegetables vegelables (see (see COURTCOURTin BOUILLON) keeping them them firm. firrn. BOUILLON) put them into a a saut6 sauté pan pan or Drain and dry the pieces, put heavy frying pan pan in which which 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant i} cup) butter butter heavy has been been heated. Moisten with 3 tablespoons (scant *J' cup) cup) has

CUST ARD APPLE APPLE coRossorCOROSSOL -- Common Common name na me for for a species species CUSTARD of annona annona and and its its fruit.It fruit. It sometimes sometimes attains a weight of of 4 kg. of (8i (8t to to 99 lb.), lb), though though the the tree tree that that produces produces it is is stunted and bare. bare. The fruit, fruit, which which resembles resembles a large large pimento pimento in shape, has has aa The smooth green green skin with with a few hairy hairy protuberances. protuberances. The The pulp pulp smooth is white, white, compact and full full of of black black seeds the the size of of apricot apricot is kernels which, which, when the the fruit is is ripe, ripe, give give off an agreeable agreeable kernels The taste taste is is slightly acid. acid. When When crushed and mixed odour. The with four four or or five five times times its its volume volume of ofwater, the pulp pulp produces produces with water, the liquid similar similar to to milk. milk. After After being being sweetened sweetened and chilled it aa liquid makes aa pleasant pleasant drink. drink. makes 301 301

CUTTING BOARD BOARD CUTTING (Recipe taken cook inin aa moderately moderately bot hot oyen. oven. (Recipe from the cook taken from the Bulletin de de la la société sociitd d'horticulture d'horticalture d'Algérie.) d'Algdrie.) Bulletin marrows mornay. Custard marrows mornay. CHAYOTES cHAyorEs MORNAY MoRNAy -- Prepare Prepare in in Custard gratin. The the same way as as Custard Custard marrows same way manows au oil gratin. The custard the custard marrows are are arranged arranged in in aa dish layer of dish on of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce marrows on aa layer (see SAUCE), SAUCE), covered covered with with the sauce, sprinkled the same sprinkled with with (see same sauce, grated cheese and and browned browned in in the the oven. oven. gra ted cheese marrow salado salad. SALADE SALADE DE DE CHA Custard marrow Custard YOTES -- Quarter cHAyorEs the Quarter the marrows and custard marrows and cook cook in Vlhite court-bouillon in White court-bouillon for custard for (see COURT-BOUILLON). vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain Drain and vegetables and slice slice Season with with oil, pepper and oil, vinegar, them. Season vinegar, pepper and chopped chopped herbs. herbs. them. Stuffed custard custard marrows. malrows. CHA cHAyorES FARcrEs -- Halve YOTES FARCIES Stuffed Halve the the custard marrows marrows crossways, crossways, trim trim and and slightly hollow them custard slightly hollow them Blanch in in salted out. Blanch water, drain drain and salted water, and dry dry them. them. out. gently in in butter. Simmer gently When nearly nearly cooked, Simmer butter. When cooked, fill fill them them (q.v.). pork forcemeat with aa mixture mixture of forcemeat and of pork and dry dry duxelles duxelles (g.v.). with Arrange the forcemeat in in the the forcemeat the form form of dome. Put Arrange of aa dome. Put the the gratin dish, custard marrows marrows on custard on aa buttered buttered gratin with dish, sprinkle sprinkle with gently in and melted melted butter, in the breadcrumbs and butter, and and brown brown gently the oyen. oven. prepared in in this Custard marrows prepared Custard this way way can can be be served as aa served as part of as part vegetable or garnish of particular dish. or used used as vegetable the garnish ofthe ofaa particular dish. pork forcemeat, Instead of forcemeat, tbey of pork Instead they can can be be filled filled with with one one or or preparations indicated indicated for other of of the the preparations for various various stutfed other stuffed (see TOMATO, TOMATO, AUBERGINE, vegetables (see AUBERGINE, etc.). etc.).

veal or gently or chicken chicken consommé, consomm6, or or water. water. Coyer Cover and and cook cook gently veal until cooked. cooked. Pour Pour over over them liquor in in which them the the liguor which they have they have until cooked. witb with aa little little butter butter added. added. cooked, Custard marrows malrows ài la la crème. crdme. CHA cHAyorEs A LA r..l CRÈME cntrrap -- Cook Cook Custard YOTES À marrows in the custard custard marrows in the the same same way way as as for for Custard Custard marrows manows the with buller. butter. When When nearly nearly cooked cooked coyer cover them fresh them with with fresh with boiled cream cream and and finish finish cooking cooking with with the lid on. the lid on. boiled pour over To serve, serve, pour over them them the the cream cream in in which which they were they were To cooked. cooked. Custard marrows marrows ài la la créole. cr6ole. CHA cHAyorEs A LA ra CRÉOLE cnEore --Custard YOTES À the custard custard marrows, marrows, blanch in salted blanch them them weil well in salted Quarter Quarter the (4 oz., g. (4 water. Cook Cook 100 100 g. oz.,l1 cup) cup) chopped chopped onions in butter onions in butter water. (half and and oil and half). oil (half half). Add Add 33 tomatoes, peeled, seeded tomatoes, peeled, seeded and and and garni (g.v.) (q.v.) aa minced coarsely chopped, chopped, aa bouquet bouquet garni minced clove clove of of coarsely garlic, and and the the custard custard marrows. marrows. Cook with the !id lid on. Cook with on. garlic, Serve in in aa border of rice, cooked of rice, cooked in in bouillon. bouillon. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the Serve custard marrows with chopped chopped parsley. custard marro\ly fritters. fritters. CHA cHAyorEs EN FRITOT FRrror -- Quarter the Custard marrow VOTES EN Quarter the custard marrows marrows and and cook cook in in White White court-bouillon court-bouillon for custard for (see COURT-BOUILLON). vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain and and dry dry them. them. vegetables juice, salt Put them in aa marinade of them in of olive olive oil, lemon juice, oil, lemon and salt and Put pepper. Dip piece in Dip each each piece in aa light light batter batter and and deep-fry deep-fry in in pepper. boiling oil. oil. Garnish with fried parsley. boiling pouR garnish. CHA marrows used Custard marrows used as as aa garnish. cHAyorEs Custard YOTES POUR GARNITURES -- Quartered custard marrows, cooked in butter cooked in GARNITURES Quartered custard part of as part or braised, braised, can can be garnish for be used used as of aa garnish for eggs, eggs, fish, or pieces of meat, fowl, etc. small pieces etc. small garnish eggs or fish, the custard marrows are are When used to garnish cut up into into large dice, blanched and cooked cooked in butter. garnish pieces To garnish pieces of meat or of meat or fowl, fowl, trim trim the the custard custard To in butter butter or braise, marrows into large lozenge shapes, cook in juices of the meat when they are nearly cooked, add the juices they are and when fowl which they are or fowl are to accompany. marrows au gratin. CHA Custard marrows cHAyorEs GRATIN-- Quarter Custard YOTES AU GRATIN Quarter the custard custard marrows, cook in in White White court-bouillon for the marrows, cook for (see COURT-BOUILLON) vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON) then then simmer simmer in in vegetables butter. dish and and sprinkle with butter. Arrange in aa buttered gratin gratin dish grated grated cheese. Pour melted butter over them and brown in a moderate oven. oyen. marrows à la grecque. CHA i la cHAyorEs,r r.l, GRECQUE cnrcqun -Custard marrows YOTES À LA Dice the custard marrows. Blanch in in salted water and and cook in same way way as as Aubergines Aubergines àd la Ia in aa court-bouillon in in the the same grecque (see (see AUBERGINE). Leave Leave to to cool cool in in their liquor liguor before serving. hors-d'ouuvre. serving. Use as an hors-d'oœuvre. Custard la martiniquaise. i la martiniquaise. CHA csayores Custard marrows marrows à YOTES A À ra LA ulnrnvt{ulIsn MARTINIQUAISE - Press Press boiled custard marrow in a a cloth c10th to water, then pound the pulp together extract the maximum maximum of ofwater, with bread dipped dipped in in milk. milk. Cook finely finely chopped onion in butter, butter, add the custard marrow marrow mixture mixture with a little salt and pepper, pepper, and milk. Smooth the surface with breadcrumbs and

pLANcrrE À CL-IITING BOARD. BOARD. PLANCHE ClJTTING A DÉCOUPER o6coupnn -- Beechwood Beechwood for cutting up groove and board used used for up meat, provided with with aa groove and hole to to catch catch the juices. aa hole

CUTTLEFISH. SEICHE, snlcrm, SÈCHE sitcrs -- Cephalopod mollusc with ClJTTLEFISH. with (cuttlebone), secreting an internaI internal shelJ an shell (cuttlebone), an inky inky liguid liquid secreting an (sepia). The The tough flesh becomes eatable (sepia). tough flesh eatable if itit is is vigorously vigorously was popular with the beaten. It was the Romans Romans and and is is stillliked in still liked in certain countries, notably notably in certain in Spain. Spain. Powdered Powdered cuttlebone cuttlebone formerly used was formerly used as as an an absorbent. absorbent. is prepared prepared like octopus. Cuttlefish is CIIVE --Large CUVE Large tun made of wood, cement or metal in in which grapes are pressed for the grapes are pressed the for wine wine and and in in which which red red wine wine is fermented. CUVEAU -- Small cuve. cave. CUVÉE CWEE -- Product of a particular cuve. A cuvée cuvie can also be a mixture mixture of ken from ditferent of grapes, either ta taken different parts ofa of a large as in the vineyard, as the Bordeaux district, bought from from different different growers under similar climatic conditions, in Burgundy, conditions, as as in or the product of different harvests in the same of different same region, region, as in Champagne and on Champagne opes of Rh6ne. The final on the sI slopes of the Rhône. final result depends upon upon the quality guality of depends vintage and the skilful of the vintage skilful balance mixture. of the mixture.

Cutting board board ((Larousse) Cutting Larousse)

302

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(4 oz., g. (4 yolks, 100 g. melted butter, butter,22 dl. oz., *crrp) sugar,5 egg egg yolks, sugar,5 cup) melted

(* oz.) (f pint, seant g. (1 of milk, 10 10 g. oz.) yeast, aa small pinch of scant cup) milk, (1 salt. lemon rind. salt, quarter of the the flour, flour, the Method. Make Make aa leaven with aa guarter Method. leaven with Keep in yeast and in aa moderate warmed. Keep milk, slightly slightly warmed. and the the milk, yeast temperature. the melted melted in volume, mix in the When the leaven has doubled in yolks, sugar sugar rind, egg egg yolks, little at aa time, time, the salt, salt, lemon rind, butter, aa Iittle rest of the the flour. flour. and and the the rest for 55 minutes. minutes. Cut Cut roll out. out. Leave Leave for and roll Dredge with with flour and cloth, thern on on aa floured cio into rounds with aa pastry-cutter, put them th, for 1I hour. hour. temperature for rise in in aa moderate moderate temperature and and leave leave to to rise in aa fine sugar sugar and and bake bake in with fine sprinkle with Baste Baste with with butter, butter, sprinkle slow oyen. oven. jam. stewed fruit fruit or or jam. served with stewed Dampfnudeln are are usual1y usually served Dampfnudeln thick apricot apricot fillod with with 1I teaspoon teaspoon thick rounds can can also also be be filled The The rounds put them them on pur6e flavoured seal, put on aa rum. Fold Fold and and seal, flavoured with with rum. purée join downward, downward, and and bake. bake. the joïn buttered sheet with with the buttered baking baking sheet

Dab

DAB. family, the P/euronectidae Pleuronectidae family, Flat fish fish of of the rnrlNDE -- Flat DAB. LIMANDE (8 and between long, with with scales 12 inches) inches) long, and 12 20 and 30 cm. cm. (8 between 20 and 30 almost as less elongated elongated than file. It isis oval oval and and less as rough as as aa file. the sole. eyes are placed, is coloured, sole. Its right side, where the eyes with head to to tail; tail; from head line running running from lateral line with aa semi-circular lateral its digested. and easiJy easily digested. The flesh flesh is is soft soft and side is white. The its blind blind side is white. The American very different. different. American dab dab is is not very AU (q.v.) are plaice (g.v.) suitable for dab. are suitable All recipes for plaice

plssnNur -- Weed toothed or or pinnated Weed with with toothed DANDELION. PISSENLIT gathered in yellow flowers, fields from from in the the fields flowers, gathered leaves and yellow leaves and varieties, such such as as are improved improved varieties, to March. March. There There are November to plein coeur are cultivated. cultivated. and très tris hâtif, hdtif,which plein which are coeur amélioré arniliord and young dandelion salads. leaves are eaten raw, raw, in in salads. are eaten Tender Tender young dandelion leaves (q.v.). spinach (g.v.). like spinach They They can can also also be be cooked cooked like

DACE. DARD family, fish of the Cyprinidae Cyprinidae family, DARD -- Freshwater fish of the also known lt is gravelet or vandoise.lt is or vandoise. as aubourg, grave/et known in in France as caught in most is rather of central France but it is most of the rivers of leathery to preparod en m mate/ote. matelote. to eat and is is usually prepared eat and DAGH (furkish cookery) of shin shin veal DAGH KEBAB cookery) -- Pieces Pieces of KEBAB (Turkish grilled and skewered tomatoes, grilled and with slices slices of of onions onions and and tomatoes, skewered with sprinkled pilaf of of rice, rice, okra okra It isis served sprinkled with thyme. It servod with with pilaf with thyme. (g.v.), (q.v.), or sorne garnish. some other garnish. DAHLIA -- Ornamental plant, originally originally found found in in Mexico, Ornamental plant, which Dahl of of Antwerp. Antwerp. name to to the the botanist botanist Dahl which owes owes its its name Dahlia to the the Jerusalem Jerusalem and are are similar similar to Dahlia tubers tubers are are edible edible and artichoke way as as in the the same same way in flavour. flavour. They They are are cooked cooked in artichoke in Jerusalem artichokes (q.v.). artichokes (g.v.).

Daïkon

DAIKON. DAÏKON radish which which can can be be Large Japanese Japanese radish oniroN -- Large eaten and cooked cooked radish, or or parboiled and eaten raw raw like the the common common radish, like like turnips. turnips. DAISY. PÂQUERETŒ field flowers. flowers. nAqurnnrre -- One One of of the the commonest commonest field Its young leaves salads. Its young leaves and and buds buds are are eaten eaten in in salads. DAME-BLANCHE (CoH sweet A kind kind of of or dessert) dessert) -- A DAMF-BLAI\CI{E (Cold sweet or Plombières (See ICE ICES.) ICE CREAMS AND ICES.) ice cream. cream. (See CREAMS AND Plombidres ice DAMPFNUDELN g. (German pâtisserie) pAtisserie) -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 500 500 g. DAMPIIJUDELN (German (18 oz., (18 oz., 4t 4| cups) (4 oz., cups) sieved g. (4 fine cup) fine sieved flour, flour, 100 100 g. oz., -tI cup) 303 303

DARIOLE DARIOLE glaze on oven until the sugar sugar forms aa glaze in the the oyen back in on top. top. Cut into sections at once, following the lines marked out before baking. The base of this cake be made made with The base of this cake may may be with flaky flaky pastry (* inch) trimmings. to 3 mm. trimmings. It need need only be 2 to inch) thick -- the mm. (i (f inch) thick; upper layer about 5 mm. mm. Ci thick; or both layers may (f inch). thickness of be of equal thickness of 4 mm. (i Creamfor filling dartois. finely in aa mortar Crearn for filling dartois. Pound finely mortar 100 g. (4 oz., (4 oz., g. (4 oz., i~ cup) sugar sugar with 100 g. (4 ~ cup) with 100 oz., ? cup) blanched "up) 2 eggs to prevent the mixture almonds, adding mixture from becomg. (4 oz., ing oily. paste, and oily. Soften 100 100 g. oz.,l~ cup) butter to aa paste, add to add to the the mixture. mixture. Add Add also also aa smaU small glass of rum rum and, and, if if (3 tablespoons) French pastry desired, pastry cream desired, 2 tablespoons (3 (see CREAM). CREAM). good cream ground almonds A good cream can be made by by mixing ground can be with French pastry pastry cream, cream, and and flavouring the mixture with vanilla vanilla or rum. rwn. The greatest care must be be taken to seal seal the layers of pastry as the cream boils during layen during cooking cooking and and tends to ooze out.

(Dehillerin. Phot. Larousse) Dariole Dariole moulds mou Ids (Dehillerin. Larousse)

DARIOLE Small cylindrical cylindrical mould. The name DARIOLE -- Small mould. The name also applies to the cakes baked in these these moulds. Line with Puff pasty Line dariole dariole moulds mou Ids with pastry (see (see DOUGH) folded folded and and rolled out 6 times. Fill FiU with Frangipane Frangipane cream (see almonds and and flavoured (see CREAMS) CREA MS) mixed mixed with with almonds flavoured with kirsch some other or sorne other liqueur. liqueur. Bake Bake in in a a hot hot oyen, kirsch or oven, and sprinkle sprinkle with sugar. DARI\E DARNE -- Thick slice of of a large large raw fish. This cut used used to be called, a dalle (slab). (slab). Darnes Darnes of of fish can be poached, poached, braised, grilled, grilled, or sautéed saut6ed in butter. butter. This is a typical recipe. Darne of salmon ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. DARNE DARNE DE DE SAUMON À L'Al.rL'ANsAUMoN A CIENNE - Season with with salt salt and and pepper a a darne darne of salmon cIENNE weighing between between 500 and 600 g. (about l+ 1t lb.) and place it buttered fireproof fireproof dish. dish. Moisten Moisten with I1dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, in a buttered scant j~ cup) cup) white wine and and the same quantity of concenconcenfish stock. Add a small sliced onion, aa bouquet garni trated fish and and the trimmings and peelings of mushrooms, the mushthemselves to be used Jater rooms themselves later for the garnish. Bring to the boil on the stove, and then place in the oven. oyen. time. About 10 10 Cook for 20 minutes, basting from time to time. ta king it out of the oven, oyen, add the peeled and minutes before taking trimmed mushrooms. Drain the salmon, and garnish with trimmod the mushrooms mushrooms arranged at each end of the dish. Top each mushroom mushroom with a poached poached oyster, decorated with a strip of truffe truffle tossed in butter. butter. Surround Surround the salmon salmon with freshwater crayfish crayfish which which have have been been tossed tossed and and cooked cooked in in a a courtbouillon (q.v.). Boil down the cooking stock of the the salmon and thicken butter. Add I1 tablespoon liqueur liqueur brandy with egg yolks and butter. and and a a touch of cayenne cayenne pepper. Pour some sorne of this this sauce sauce round round the salmon and serve the rest separately. separately.

Dates Dates and date-palm

DATTE DATE. DArrE

-

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The fruit was known to fruit of the date-palm was The

grows wild in the area bounded the Chaldeans Chaldeans in antiquity. It grows by the the Euphrates Euphrates and and the the Nile, Nile, and and is is cultivated in the cultivated in by desert oases of southern Algeria and Tunisia. The male and

on separate trees and and artificial female principles principles grow grow on separate trees female pollination pollination is therefore necessary. There hard and dates, the the latter latter being being more There are are hard and soft soft dates, prized. The best dates from Tunisia, Algeria highly prized. dates come Tunisia, Algeria come from The best western Asia. They are about the size of a thumb, with and western

Dartois (Larousse) (Larousse) Dafiois

yellowish-red yellowish-red skin, and have a sweet sweet flavour. Excellent dates are grown grown in in South Carolina and and Arizona (U.S.A.). Since are a concentrate ofsugar of sugar (73 per cent oftheir of their Since dates are nourishweight is rapidly assimilable sugar) they are full of nourishquantities of phosphorus ment. They They contain contain appreciable quantities phosphorus ment. and calcium and and are rich in in Vitamins A A and and B. B. Sorne and calcium are rich Some made from dates. alcoholic drinks, including brandy, are made alcoholic (dessert) fritters. frittas. Date fritters -- See FRITTER, Sweet (dessert) DATTES FOURRÉES - Stone the FoURREEs Stuffed dates (petits fours). DATTEs dates, and stuff with almond paste flavoured with kirsch or pistachio nut paste. Sprinkle Sprinkle with crystallised rum, or with pistachio sugar.

DARTOIS -- Small Small snacks served served as as an an hors-d'oeuvre hors-d'oeuvre or

light light main main course. course. For For recipes recipes see see HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot hors-d'auvre. hors-d'œuvre.

DARTOIS @f,tisserie) (pâtisserie) -- Make Make two two layers of Puff pasty pastry (see (see DOUGH). Fill Fill the the middle of one one layer layer with almond almond cream and cover coyer with the second layer. Brush the top with egg, leaving the edges untouched untouchcd or the pastry will wiil not rise

DAUBE -- Method cooking meat. Although this method DAUBE Method of cooking used for other meat, as as well weil as poultry and game, the can be used qualification means a cut term daube without without qualification cut of ofbeef beef cooked term daube en daube, that is, is, braised in in rod rcd wine wine stock well well seasoned seasoned en with herbs.

baking. during baking. Lightly mark dividing lines at evenly spaced intervals to indicate be cut cut later. Bake Bake in a moderate indicate where where the pastry pastry is to be oven, oyen, then then sprinkle sprinkle the top lightly lightly with icing sugar sugar and put

304 304

DECANT DECANT

Stuffed tes dates Stuffed da (Scarnati) (Scarnori)

The name daube àd l'avignonnaise I'avignonnai,te means aa dish made with in red red wine. mutton cooked in For of daube see BEEF, BEEF. MUTTON, MUTTON. daube see kinds of For different different kinds TURKEY, TURKEY, PHEASANT. PHEASANT. r

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(especially peaches peaches and and and fruit fruit trees trees (especially vegetables and spring spring vegetables famous Rhône Rh6ne bear the the famous its sunlit sunlit slopes slopes bear apricots), and and its apricots), found. trees are are to to be be found. south, olive olive trees vineyards. In In the the extreme extreme south, vineyards. great pasture for rearing great rich pasture for rearing of the Alps Alps provide rich The The valleys of yield excellent Here, too, too, are are excellent milk. milk. Here, which yield numbers of of cows cows which numbers gathered. are gathered. groves from chestnuts are Lyons chestnuts from which which the the Lyons the the groves yield an an abundant abundant crop. crop. which yield hazelnut trees trees which There There are are also also hazelnut prized. The pastures isis highly prized. The honey From from these these upland upland pastures The The honey places provide trout crayfish. In In sorne some places trout and and crayfish. lakes and rivers provide lakes and rivers common in in the the woods. woods. mushrooms are are common trufftes found, and and mushrooms are found, truffies are shows aa marked marked Regional cookery cookery shows CuHnary Culinary speciaHties specialities -- Regional gratin dishes. not only only with with These are are made made not predilection for predilection for gratin dishes. These porridge, potatoes but chopped porridge, also with with chopped macaroni and potatoes but also macaroni and crayfish tails. tails. cipes and and crayfish white swedes, cèpes white beet, beet, swedes, Vienne enjoy enjoy aa and those those of of Vienne Daubes Daubes are favourite dishes dishes and are favourite this specialities of of this the specialities Among the considerable reputation. Among considerable reputation. quails; grillades marinière; thrush difarde; baby baby qua region ils ; thrush marinidre; défarde; region are are grillades pdtis des salmis ofthrush; of thrush; des Alpes; Alpes; salmis withjuniper thrush pâtés berries; thrush with juniper berries; pickled truffies de Nyons; Nyons; and ar'd pickled lhrush; truffies de pickled the excellent excellent pickled thrush: the quails. Chabeuil Chabeuil quails. provide milk pastures provide milk alpine pastures The farms in in these these alpine The dairy dairy farms Saintwhich cheeses: Sassenage, Sassenage, Saintto manufacture manufacture cheeses: used to which isis used and the the white Marcellin, Briangon and white Pelvoux, Briançon Marcellin, Champoléon, Champol6on, Pelvoux, (a cheese fermented buttennilk). buttermilk). cheese, made from from fermented tomme (a cheese made cheese, tomme pastry isis the pogne, an The the pogne, an immense immense regional pastry characteristic regional The characteristic pumpkin. tart lied in and in in autumn autumn with with pumpkin. with fruit fruit and tart fifilled in summer summer with pogne ln pogne isis aa kind brioche. The The pogne of brioche. kind of area, aa pOfine In the the Drôme Drdme area, Among the the of high reputation. reputation. Among an especially especially high of Romans Romans enjoys enjoys an pognes and the sweet and meringues, meringues, the Valence pognes sweet specialities specialities are are Valence honey Voiron and and the the sweetmeats of of Voiron of Gap, Gap, the the sweelmeals honey tourons tourons of famous of Montélimar. Montelimar. famous nougul nougat of produce some highly Wines very highly some very slopes produce Rh6ne slopes Wines -- The The Rhône white reputed ch as Hermitage and and Crozes; Crozes; white of Hennitage such as those those of wines, su reputed wines, Die. and de Die. famous Clairette Clairette de the famous Hermitage and and the and red red Hermitage

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DAUBIÈRE earthenware or or DAUBTDRE - Casserole of stoneware, earthenware tinned copper the cooking cooking of of daubes. copper for for the DAUCUS -- Plant medicinally seeds, used used medicinally whose aromatic aromatic seeds, Plant whose in preparation of some of sorne now used in the the preparation former times, times, are are now used in in fonner liqueurs. liqueurs. DA UMONT (À preparing large fish. The The (A LA) large fish. Method of of preparing DAUMONT LA) -- Method Daumonl quenelles, (see GARNISHES) garnish (see comprises quenelles, Daumont garnish GARNISHES) comprises soft served crayfish tails, tails, served roe, mushrooms and freshwater freshwater crayfish soft roe, mushrooms and with with Nantua Nantua sauce. sauce.

DAUPHINE (A LA) given to several different different Name given to several DAUPHINE (À LA) -- Name potato preparation preparation dishes. for aa potato used for dishes. Most Most commonly commonly itit isis used paste. This made potato mixture This mixture and and chou chou paste. made from from duchess duchess potato (See POT mixture Adeep-fried. (See POTAinto balls balls and and deep-fried. mixture isis shaped shaped into TOES.) TOES.)

DAUPHINÉ DAUPHINE -- The region stretches from the the Alps Alps ttre Dauphiné Dauphin6 region stretches from to ers on Rh6ne Valley. In the north itit bord borders on the the Lyonnais Lyonnais to the the Rhône Valley. In the north district area, from from which which itit isis separated separated by by district and and the the Bresse Bresse area, the any the Rhône. Rh6ne. In In the adjoins Provence Frovence without without any south itit adjoins the south clear-cut geographical demarcation demarcation line. line. Its Its north-eastern north-eastern clear-cut geographical border high, mountainous mountainous Isère Isdre border isis Savoy on the the edge edge of of the the high, Savoy on valley. geographical and valley. The and climatic climatic conditions conditions The diversity diversity of of geographical of produce. The region, explains of its its produce. The variety of explains the of this this region, the variety Rhône Rh6ne Valley Valley has has aa climate climate favourable favourable to to the the cultivation cultivation of of

DAUPHINOISE preparing potatoes potatoes (A LA) Method of of preparing DAUPHINOISE (À LA) -- Method (q.v.). (q.v.). DECANT. pour any liquid from from one cono6caNrsR -- To any liquid one conDECANT. DÉCANTER To pour 305 305

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Vineyards ~

'?J Gastronomic Gastronomie map map of o( Dauphin€ Da uphiné

tainer tainer into ioto another. another. Wine Wine is is decanted decanted into into a a carafe carafe to to get get rid rîd of of the the deposit deposit formed formed at at the the bottom bottom of of the the wine wine bottle. bottle. Decanting Decanting has has the the added added advantage advantage of of oxidising oxidising the the wine. wÎne. This This operation operation must must be be carried carried out out with with great great care, care, traintraining on the the carafe carafe to to make make sure sure that tbat the the wine wine is is clear, clear, ing aa light light on and and allowing allowing as as little litlle as as possible possible of of the the residue residue to 10 get get in. in. Butter is also said Butter is also said to to be be decantod decanted when when itit is is melted mehed and and purified purified by by being being transferred transferred from from one one container container to to another. aoother.

In In hotel hotel kitchens kilchens a a large large number number of of different fats fats are available. available. These These are are chosen chosen with with care and used lavishlv. lavishly. In In private private households, households, the the fats faIs are are not not always aJways pure, pure, and, and, for for reasons reasons of of economy, economy, the the housewife housewife uses uses her ner fats fats too tao sparingly. sparingly. This This is is false false economy. eeonomy. Deep-frying Deep-frying can can only only be be successful successful if if aa great great deal deaJ of of fat fal is is used. used. The The more more fat fat the the less less wastg waste, since, since, where where too too little litlle fat fat is is used, used. itil is is absorbed absorbed into into the the food food and and the the pieces pieces stick stick to to one one another anolner and and become become soggy. soggy. Food Food frid fried in in abundant abundant fat fat is is crisp, crisp, firm firm and and cooked cooked all aU through. through. ItIt isis properly properly sealed sealed at at the the outset outset and and therefore therefore does does not not absorb absorb the the fat. fat. There There must must be be ample ample space space in in the the cooking eooking utensil utensil which which should snould be be made made in in aa single single piece, piece, of of sheet-iron sheet-iron or or hammered hammered copper. copper. As As itit isis gften often necessary necessary to to fry fry aa number number of of thinp things at al the the same same time, time, itit is is desirable desirable to to have have at at least least two two such such pans pans in Ln the tne kitchen. kitchen. One One of ofthese these should snould be be kept kept exclusively exclusively for for fish. fish. Other Other necessary necessary equipment equipment for for deep-frying deep-frying are are grids, grids, baskets baskets and and skimmers. skimmers. The The pan pan must must be be carefully carefully cleaned cleaned each eaeh time time itit is is used, u~, inside inside and and out. out. The The fat fat should should be be strained strained and and pourod poured back back into into the the pan pan for for storage. storage. Fats Fats for for deepfrying. deep-frying. LA LA cRArssE GRAISSE DE DE FRrruRE FRITURE-- The The best best fat fat to to uso use in in all ail deep-frying deep-frying isis beef beef kidney kidney fat fat (suet), (suet), clarified c1arified and and purified purified with with scrupulous scrupulous care. care. This This fat fat isis odourless odourless and and can can be be heated hea ted up up to to 180'C. 180 a C. (350'F.) (350°F,) without wi thout burnihg. burning. IfIf itil

DECIZE DECIZE -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. DECOC:TION. DECOCTION. n6cocnoN DÉCOCTION -- Process Process of of boiling boiling aa solid solid for for aa period period in io water. water. Clear Clear soup soup is is aa decoction deeoction of of meat. meal. The The decoction deeoction of of vegetable vegetable matter matter has has the the disadvantage disadvantage of of sap sapplng ping many many of of its ils nutritive nutritive properties properties and and evaporating evaporating its its volatile volatile elements. elements.

DECOMPOSITION. DECOMPOSITION. ofcorrlposlrroN DÉCOMPOSITION

--

Destruction DestructÎon of of aa

body body by by the the disintegration disintegration of of its i15 elements. elements.

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DEEP-FRYING. DEEP-FRYING. rnrruns FRITURE - Immersing Immersing foods foods in in aa large, large, deep deep pan pan of of boiling boiling fat. fat. The The French French term term for for deep-frying deep-fryîng isis friture, friture, aa word word also also applied applied to to the the fat fat used used in in deep-frying. deep-frying. 11 the great kitchens of a hotel or restaurant, deep-frying In the great kitchens of a hotel or restaurant, deep-frying isis almost alwaya carried out successfully, almost always carried out successfully, but but this this cannot cannot bi be said of home home cooking, cooking, where where more more often often than than not not the the said of methods methods and and ingredients ingredients used used are are quite quite unsuitable. unsuitable.

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DEEP-FRYING also deep-fried deep-frid in in moderately hot hot fat; fat; they also not be they would not through if they were sealed cooked right througb sealed at once by contact heat. with too intense aa beat. Very hot fat fat is is used used for foodstuffs which must be Very be sealed example, anything anything dipped dipped in in egg egg and and breadinstantly, for example, crumbs or batter. This also applies to precooked foods sucb such croquettes and very small foodstuffs which must be sealed as croquettes immediately. Soufflé Souffi6 potatoes must must be dropped into into very immediately. be dropped hot fat after having first been cooked in moderately hot fat. theory ofdeep-frying: This was Brillat-Savarin's theOl"y of deep-frying: 'Not all liquids exposed to the action of of fire can absorb absorb the 'N ot allliquids same amount heat. Thus, amount of of heat. Thus, one one may may with with impunity impunity dip same into boiling spirits of wine, wine, where where one one would one's finger finger into boiling spirits and still more hastily from withdraw it hastily from brandy, and water, while water, while any any contact contact with with boiling boiling oil oil would cause cause an painful blister, since oil hold at blister, since oil can can hold at least least three intensely painful as much heat as as water. muchheat times as is as aa result of these differences differences that hot liquids act in 'It is different ways ways upon the foodstuffs which which are are immersed immersed in upon the different cookod in in water are are softened softened and and reduced reduced by them. Those cooked boiling; soups soups and and extracts are their extracts are their by-products. by-products. Foods boiling; hand, are compressed; fat, on the other hand, compressed; they take cooked in fat, colouring, and in the end become charred. on aa dark col ou ring, and 'In the the first first case, case, water dissolves dissolves and and absorbs 'In into itsetf absorbs into itself cookod in it; the inherent juices of the foods cooked it; in in the second, juices are preserved intact because because they are are insoluble in the juices If fried fried foods eventuaIJy eventually become desiccated it is because oil. If because heat has has evaporated ail to heat all the the moisture moisture in over-exposure to them. 'These two are known different 'These known by by different two methods of cooking cooking are names, and fat is and the the process of boiling foodstuffs in oil oil or fat asfrying. known as frying. 'The virtue of good frying lies lies in in aa kind kind of shell shell formed 'The prevents the fat round the food, food, which fat from penetrating it which prevents round seals the juices and seaJs inside. These juices are thus and juices inside. juices are thus cooked flavour of within the shell so that preserved. that the full flavour of the food is preserved. The boiling liquid must have attained aa sufficient degree of heat for for its action action to to be reach this point, heat be instantaneous; to reach it must be heated for quite a long time over a very hot flame. quick frying or for used only for very quick Olive oil should be used processes which which do do not heat. This is processes not require great heat. is because because olive oil, oil, if heated for aa long long time, develops olive develops an unpleasant taste which it is difficult to eradicate.' (Physiologie du Goût.) Gofrt.\

carefully looked after, it can be used used over and and over again. is carefully A little veal fat can be added if desired, desired. but veal veal fat must A quickly. An not used alone, very quickly. not be be used alone, since since it it deteriorates very alternative household household fat fat can can be alternative mixing ox be prepared by by mixing kidney-fat with an equal equal quantity of lard lard or or oil, but but these with an mixtures, apart from from being being more expensive, cannot cannot be more expensive, mixtures, apart heated to to tbe high degree without the same same higb without burning, burning, nor beated nor can they be be used used again much. Mutton fat fat should should never they never be again as as much. used in in deep-frying, deep-frying, since since it it impregnates the the food food witb with a used taste of tallow. Among the fats fats which which are are suitable suitable for for frying frying certain Among the fish, fritters, which is suitable for fish, special foods are olive oil, wbich rice and cream croquettes, etc; and cream etc; c1arified clarified butter which which may rice be used used in in the flavoured sweets; the preparation be preparation of delicately flavoured and groundnut (peanut) oil and and and cereal oils. cheaper vegetable oils oils'include The cheaper inc1ude various types of cocoquite suitable in certain cases, but are nut butter. butter. They are are quite poor substitute for ox kidney fat. still a poor fat of duck, The fat duck, goose and and other other fat fat poultry, as as weil well as The butter for browning browning or in the preparalard, may be used with butter tion of roux, but ox kidney is more efficient. In his book, le le Cuisinier Cuisinier praticien, praticien, Reculet says: In amount of fat fat used frying must must always depend in frying 'The amount used in greater the upon the the size object to fried; the upon size of of the the object to be be fried; the greater liquid, the more it can hold hold the heat, and and itit is quantity of liquid, able to to counteract the cooling caused by by the the immersion imrhersion of able and the moisture given off during cooking. cooking. the object and desirable to have have two lots of of cooking cooking 'In a busy kitchen it is desirable fat, one one white white and fresh or at and one one brown. brown. The white fat fat is is fresh fat, used: it should should be used used for ail all deep-frying deep-frying except least little used: fish. The brown fat, darkened by long long service should be for fish. all cases. cases. used for fish, though good white fat is preferable in ail 'There are several signs to be seen when frying-oil becomes hot: l. A slight tremor on the surface. 1. characteristic smell. 2. A strong characteristic vapour given off by the fat. 3. A dry whitish vapour fat by adding a drop of water to it or Test the heat of the fat purified fat into it. If dipping any substance other than purified If the by dipping sound is is sharp sharp and and high, high, the the fat fat is is hot enough enough for for frying.' sound proportion of Vegetables and fruit, which which have have aa high high proportion and fruit, Vegetables fried in moderately fat. This This applies water in them, are are fried moderately hot fat. applies and other large foodstuffs particularly to potatoes. Fish and foodstuffs are

Electric deep-frying equipment, Electric deep-frying equipment, commercial commercial Photothique E.D.F.) E. D.F.) (Brigaud. Phot. Photothèque

Deep-frying basket Deep-frying (Dehillerin. Phot. Larousse) (Dehillerin. Larousse)

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DEEP.FRYING DEEP-FRYING BASKET BASKET joint of away sorne some of of the the fat fat which which forms forms aa coating away coating on on aa joint of meat. Ali All fat fat thus removed, whether thus removed, whether from from liquids liquids or meat. or meat meat of mutton or or lamb) lamb) must must be (except that of be clarified. clarified.ItIt can can then then be used used for for deep-frying. be

DEEP-FRYING crurrn -- Wire utensil in in which DEEP-FRYING BASKET. GRILLE food liftd can be b€ lifted Fried foods can food is contained for deep-frying. Fried out of the fat in this utensil.

DEGRAISSIS -- Term in French fat DÉGRAISSIS Term used used in French cookery cookery for for the the fat skimmed skimmed off off clear clear soup, soup, stock, stock, or This fat, fat, which which or sauce. sauce. This 'economy fat', must must be be clarified, is is known known in in France France as as 'economy fat', and and is fat. is used to fry certain vegetables, or or as as deep-frying deep-frying fat.

DEHYDRATING. ofsttyDRArER DEHYDRATING. DÉSHYDRATER (q.v.).

-- Wild

Synonym for drying drying Synonym for

(breakDÉJEUNER DEJEUNER -- In In France, France, the the first meal of of the the day day (breakfirst meal (i.e. little fast) dijeuner (i.e. fast) is is called called the the petit déjeuner dijeuner or premier déjeuner little or distinguish itit from or first first déjeuner) dijeuner) to to distinguish from déjeuner, dijeuner, which which isis taken in in the middle of the day. day. The The institution institution of of this midday meal back to to the meal dates this midday dates back the French Revolution. Revolution. In the eighteenth the main meal century the main meal eighteenth century, (dinner) was of of the the day, day, dîner diner (dinner) was taken first at at midday midday and and taken first later p.m. The déjeuner, later at at 1I p.m. dijeuner, taken taken upon waking, waking, consisted consisted of aa soup or coffee with milk. The Constituent bly began its deliberations Assembly Constituent Assem deliberations at at about about midday, to p.m. It was, at about 66 p.m. therefore, necessary necessary to rise at was, therefore, to change the dinner hour hour to to 6 p.m., and and since since the the members could not sit sit fasting, fasting they could not they were were obliged obliged to to take take aa second second breakfast at at II I I a.m. a.m. This This second second déjeuner dijeuner was was more more subsubstantial than the first and the first and included eggs and and cold cold meat. meat. According ( I 822-1 896) According to the the Goncourt Goncourt brothers, Edmond (1822-1896) and (1830-1870), itit was Handy who and Jules Jules (1830-1870), was Mme. Mme. Handy who invented invented fork fork luncheons, luncheons, by setting setting out cutlets, cutlets, kidneys and and sausages sausages on aa buffet her café on buffet in in her caf6 on on the the boulevards the opposite the boulevards opposite Comédie-Italienne, pressing her and pressing Com6die-Italienne, and her clients clients to to take take these these savouries savouries with their meal. Nowadays, in in France, France, déjeuner has largely largely usurped usurped the ddjeuner has the place of the original dîner. place lt includes diner. It includes the the same same dishes dishes and and is eaten later and is and later in the day. day. in the The experts maintain maintain that The experts that aa substantial dinner dinner does not does not necessarily cause provided that restless night, night, provided that there necessarily cause aa restless there is is aa enough interval interval between long enough dinner and and going to and between dinner to bed, bed, and because too large aa lunch makes makes work in the because too large diffcult in the afterafterwork difficult noon, more and and more people people are habit are following the the British British habit of having a substantial breakfast followed followed by aa light light lunch.

Deer Deer on display in shop shop window window

DEER. cERF CERF DEER.

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mammal whose whose flesh flesh is tender up up to mammal

one year, year, and and from from then then on on becomes more and more tough. one particularly indigestible indigestible and even ev en poisonous poisonous when the the ItIt isis particularly brought down after a long long chase. chase. deer has has been been brought deer Ali methods methods of preparation preparation given given for for the the buck buck are All are applicable to to the the doe. doe. applicable

DEFRUTUM -- Latin term tenu used used by Apicius and and found found in DEFRUTUM to designate designate grape grape juice juice reduced reduced by evaporaevaporaancient recipes recipes to ancient tion to to aa third third of of its its volume. volume. This This juice juice was was widely used used in in tion Roman cookery. cookery. Roman

DÉLICE -- This strictly means means aa DELICE This word, word, which which in in French French strictly certain type type of pastry, is is nowadays certain of pastry, nowadays misused misused by some by sorne

pretentious maîtres in the pretentious maitres d'hôtel d'h6tel in the drawing drawing up up of of their their menus. menus. Having no no precise precise culinary Having culinary meaning, meaning, the the word word (which implies delectability), delectability), is implies is exploited exploited for for its very vagueness, its very vagueness, implying in in ad vance that implying advance that the the dish dish offered offered is is delectable, delectable, though, in fact, ail is to to put though, put the patron on all it it does does is the wary wary patron his on his guard.

DÉGLAÇAGE -- Technical Technical term term in in French cookery cookery for the the DfGLACAGE operation of of pouring pouring any any liquid liquid into into the pan pan in in which which food operation

in butter butter or or other other fat. fat. has been been cooked cooked in has Wine is is used used for for this this purpose, purpose, heated heated and and stirred stirred in in the the Wine pan so so that that all ail the the concentrated concentrated juices juices are are incorporated incorporated into into pan it. White White or or brown brown stocks, stocks, cream, cream, vinegar, vinegar, or or alcohol alcohol can can it. also be be used. used. also

DEMI -- In In English the term term 'ha Ir is glass of 'half DEMI English the is used used of of aa glass of beer beer holding approximately approximately 33 dl. dl. (t (| pint, pint, li holding lf cups). cups). France, a a demi demi is is aa glass glass of In France, In holding about of beer beer also also holding about

DÉGLACER -- Technical Technical term term in in French French cookery cookery for for the the DfGLACER


sAUCE). SAUCE). Anchovy Anchory eggs eggs 1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). onurs OEUFS lux AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOIS - Arrange Arrange the the cooked eggs on bread fried fried in butter butter on both sides, or on puffpastry croustades. puff Mask Mask with Anchovy Anchovy Sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Garnish Garnish each each egg egg with with a desalted desalted anchovy fillet. Anchovy Anchovy eggs eggs tr Il (mr (sur le plat). plat). orurs OEUFS Ar.x AUX ANcHors ANCHOIS - Desalt Desalt and and dice I1 anchovy per per egg. Put PUI them Ihem into into a buttered buUered ovenovenproof dish and break break the eggs onto onlO them. Cook Cook in in the the oven oven and decorate decorate with with more more anchovy fillets. fillels. Anchory Al1chovy eggs eggs Itr m (frid). (fried). oEr.rFs OEUFS Arrx AUX ANcHorsANCHOIS - Fry Fry the the eggs eggs in oil. Arrange Arrange each each one one on an oval piece piece of of bread, bread, fried in butter butter on on both both sides. sides. Garnish Garnish with with anchovy ancbovy fillets, tillets, arranged criss-cross. criss-cross. Sprinkle with with Norette Noiselle butter buller (see (see BUTTER,

I

Compound Compound butters). bUllers).

Eggs Eggs ià l'ancienne l'ancienne I1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). oBurs OEUFS A A Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on 00 a a mound mound of of rice, ri ce, - Arrange cooked cooked in in meat meat stock. stock. Cover Coyer with with Veloute Veloute saucd saucé (see (see SAUCE). julienne (q.v.) of of truffiesblended truffles blended SA U CE). Put Put Il teaspoonof teaspoon ofjulimre with with thick thick Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) between the the eggs. Eggs Eggs ià I'ancienne l'ancienne tr n (cold). (cold). oEr-rFs OEUFS A r'.lNcreNxs L'ANCIENNE- Mask soft-boiled soft-hoiled eggs eggs or or poached poached eggs cggs with with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce (sec SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been becn added. added. sauce (see Decorate Decorate with wilh truffies truffles and and glaze glaze with with jelly. jelly. Serve Serve in in aa dish dish lined lined with with aa layer layer of of chicken chîcken jelly. jelly. Separate Separate the the eggs eggs with with slices slices of of pickled pickled tongue tongue cut eut into into flutd fluted half-circles. half-circles. Cover Cover with with thin thin jelly. jelly. Add Add chopped chopped jelly jeUy

L'ANcTENNE L'ANCIENNE -

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EGGS EGGS to to the the middle middle of ofthe the dish. dish. Keep Keep cold cold until until serving' serving. Eggp ià l'andalouse le plat). plat). onurs OEUFS AÀ t'itNpAtousn L'ANDALOUSEl'andalouse I1(srr le the eggs eggs rrr sur lele plat in in oil oil in in aa dish dish which which has has been been Cook the rubbed rubbed with with garlic. garlic. Peel and and dice dice sweet sweet peppers peppers and and cook cook them in in oil. oil. Add Add them them to to Tomato Tomato fondue fondue (see (see FONDUE) FONDUE) them and garnish the the eggs eggs with with the the mixture. mixture. and l'andalouse tr II (frid). (fTied). oEUFs OEUFS AÀ t'lNoAl-ousn L'ANDALOUSE -- Fry Fry Eggs nà I'andalouse the eggs eggs in in oil. oil. Arrange Arrange alternately alternately with with grilled grilled tomatotomatothe halves in in the the shape shape of of aa crown. crown. halves Garnish with with sweet sweet peppers peppers and and onion onion rings rings fried fried in in oil. oil. Garnish l'anglaise I1(srr (sur lele plat). orurs OEUFS AÀ t'enctusr L'ANGLAISE -- Break Break Eggs ià I'anglaise Eggs eggs over over aa slice slice of of grilled bacon bacon in in aa buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof 22 eggs dish. Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. dish. tr (fried). oEUFs l''''·· ... I
FONTAINEBLEAU-- Town Town weil well known in thegastronomic the gastronomic FONTAINEBLEAU because of ilS grapes, whÎch its famous grapes, which are are found found in world because in and and (see GRAPES), near Thomery Thomery (see GRAPES), and and also also because because of its near its suc.succream cheese, cheese, which which isis eaten eaten as as a dessert. culent cream See CHEESE. FONTINA -- See

PROCESSOR -- A powerful powerful time-saving appliance FOOD PROCE.."SOR FOOD operated by e1eclricity electricity and equipped with a variety of cutting operated gadgets for pur6eing, emulsifying, chopping, slicing, shredding, and and whipping. Originated in France under ding, under the trade name of of Cuisinart, simîlar processors are similar food food processors name are now manufactured in England, Germany, and Ihe the United States. pur6e. Fruit of aimosi FOOL -- Fruit purée. almost any variety is is cooked FOOL with very little and passed through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. The licHe water warer and passed through with pulp is and kept cool -- on ice if possible. Whipped is sugared and Whipped to l, 1, mixed cream is added to the pulp in the proportion of 2 [0 and served served in sherbet glasses. gently and

pouR GALANl1NES, pAr6s, TERR1NES FARCE FARCE 1'00JR. GALANTINES, PÂTÉs, TERRINES -

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Inl1r1-"fI./pnl'.L 250 g. veal, 500 (9 oz.) lean (18 oz.) fresh g. (9 Ingredients.250 lean veal, 500 g. (18 fresh tab1espoons Spiced (see SALT), pork fat, 2 eggs, 22 tablespoons Spiced salt (see brandy. 1+ dl. (+ pint, J cup) brandy. Me/hod. Dice the veal, veal, pork, and pork fat and pound in în a Method. with the the seasoning and Add the mortar with and brandy. the eggs eggs and brandy. Add mix weIl. well. Rub Ihrough through a fine sieve. Slir Stir until very smooth. FARCE DE GIBlERS - Prepare Prepare like Chicken Game forcemeat. forcemeat. FARcE GIBTERs like Chicken (or other poultry)forcemeat,replacing chicken chickeo by game meat. meal. aoo potted preparations. FARCE Gamc forcemeat for plt6s pâtés and Game pArEs ET DE GIBIER poun POUR PÂTÉS ET TERRTNES TERRINES - Using whatever game is indicated in the the recipe, recipe, proceed proceed as as for for Chicken indicaled in Chickm (or other poultry) poul/TY) forcemeat. forcemeal. To To render render this this stuffing stuffing more more delicate, delicate, the the trimmings of freshfoie iL It ft can aalso Iso be enriched by the fresh foie gras are added to it. à gratin game game stuffing swjjing (see (see below) be!ow) and addition of d addition and Game fumet (see FUMET). A gratin calves' ulves' Iiver liver forcemeat for borders borders and and hot pfftds. pâtés. FARcE FARCE A À cR,lrnq GRAnN DE DE ForE FOlE DE DE vEAU VEAU poLJR POUR BoRDUREs BORDURES ET pAres PÂTÉS

(Wine) -- French FORCE FORCE (Wine) French term lerm for incompletely incomplelely fermented fermeOled wine to develop aa .sparkle, in small reinforced reinforced casks 10 'sparkle' wine kept in just as Champagne wine develops develops it in bottles. boules. just as

FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS or STUFFINGS. rlncps FARCES - Forcemeats or stuffings, stuffings, which which are are a a mixture mixture of ingredients ingredienl~ minced minced or chopped chopped and and spiced, spiced, are are among among the the preparations preparations most cooking. They are often from charin cooking. They are often made made from charwidely used used in cuterie, ell/erie, and and are are used used in pdtis, pâtés, potted pattee! preparations, preparations, galantines, and sluft' or garnish eggs, fish, poultry, poultry, and ballottines, ballottines, to stuff game, game, meat, meal, vegetables, etc. Forcemeats making of of forcemeat farcemeat balls, balls, Forcemeats are are also used in the making borders, mousses, moulds, moulds, etc. Forcemeats Forcemeats or or stuffings sluffings can be be made made with or or without meat, meal, though all al! of of them them derive derive from 55 basic forcemeats. forcemeats. These are: l. Pork forcemeat. forcemeal. 2. Yeal Veal and and fat fal forcemeat, forcemeat, known known as as godiveau. godiveau, 3. Fine Fine forcemeat, forcemeat, with with cream. cream. 4. Forcemeat made of special ingredients, with with or or without without made of meat. meal. 5. 5. ità gratin gratin forcemeat. forcemeat. Forcemeats various by the the addition of ofvarious Forcemeats are are given given substance substance by panadas panadas (see below). below). Most forcemeats meal, poultry, poultry. or game, are forcemealS made made of meat, bound bound with wilh eggs. Panada Panada for for forcemeats or sfuffings. stuffings. nANADE PANADE -- Preparation Preparation made bread, usually usually boiled boiJed in in water, water, made with with various variolls flours or bread, milk, forcemeats. milk, or or stock, and and used used to to bind bind stuffings or forcemeats. Panadas 2 parts Panadas are are added added to to stuffings in in the the proportion proportion of of2 parts basic basÎc ingredients ingredients to 10 I1 part part panada.

_ CHAVDSCHAUDS

Ingredienls. 300 g. g. (ll (lI oz.) trimmed calves' livers, 250 g. Ingredients.300 (9 (9 oz.) fat fat belly belly of pork, pork, 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., 3 cups) CUPS) mushroom mushroom peelings, peelings, 50 e.Q g. (2 oz., I±cup) chopped shallots, 150 g. (5 oz., oz." generous generous *-t cup) cUP) butter, butter, 4 teaspoons leaspoons salt, I1 teaspoon 1",,,~nr'l""In pepper, j~ teaspoon teaspoon ground cloves, cloyes, a a small smaU sprig of thyme, * bay leaf,ll leaf, Ji dl. $ (t pint, pint, 3 cup) white white wine, 3 egg yolks. Method. Method. Brown Brown the the diced diced belly of pork in 50 g. g. (2 oz., în the the butter. Remove the pork from the the pan, pan, and, in i cup) butter. bro'k'T1 very very quickly the the diced calves' calves' liver. liver. Put same butter, brown the diced diced pork pork back back in in the the pan. pan Add Add the the mushroom musbroom peelings peelings the and shallots, sballols, seasoning seasonÎng and spices. Saut6 Sauté the the mixture mixture on aa and of the the very hot hot flame Rame for for 22 minutes. minutes. Take the the calves' calves' liver liver out out of very pan. pan. Dilute Dilute the the juices juices with wilh the the white white wine, wine, boil boil down down and and add add to the the liver. liver. Pound Pound in in a mortar, mortar, adding adding the the rest rest of of the Ihe butter buller to aod the tbe egg egg yolks. yolks. Mix Mix well. weil. Rub Rub through Ihrough aa sieve. Mix Mix with with and is very very smooth. smooth. wooden spoon spoon until uotiJ itit is aa wooden The is added added to lo forcemeats forcemeats for pdtds pâtés and and potted polted The mixture mixlure is products. Il is is also also used used in in the the preparation preparation of of borders borders and and products. It poultry or game game moulds. moulds. Truffie Tmffle peelings peelings may may be be added added to to poultry or

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FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS Panada Pana da forcemeat forcemeat with wilfl cream cream (fine). (fine). rencr FARCE (nNr) (FINE) A À r,l LA eANADE PANADE rr ET A À LA cnirraE CRÈME - Ingredienls. Ingredients. 1 kg. kg. (2+ (2± lb.) lb.) veal veal or or

this this forcemeat forcemeat and and pounded pounded with with the the calves' calves' liver. liver. A A little little concentrated concentrated Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UeE) can can also also be be

u

A

À gratin gratin forcemeat forcemeat for for canap6s canapés and and croiitons. croûtons. re.ncs FARCE A À cRATTN GRATIN pouR POUR cANApEs CANAPÉS ET cno0roNs CROÛTONS - Heat Heat in ill a pan pan 150 150 g. g.

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I

poultry, poultry, boned boned and and trimmed, trimmed, with with all aU gristle gristle and and tendons tendons removed, removed, 400 400 g. g. (14 (14 oz.) oz.) Bread Bread panadn panada (see (see PANADA), PANADA), 44 egg It litres litres (2f (21 pints, pints, 3| 3± pints) pints) double double cream, cream, I1 egg whites, whites, l!

added. added.

-

teaspoon teaspoon salt, sail, jt teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the meat meat or or poultry poultry with with the the seasoning seasoning and and the the egg egg whites, whites, adding adding aa little little at at aa time. time. Add Add the the panada. panada. Pound Pound vigorously vigorously until until the the ingredients ingredients are are thoroughly thoroughly mixed. mixed. Rub througha through a fine fine sieve. steve. Keep Keep on on ice iee for for I1 hour. hour. Add, Add, aa little little at aa time, time, aa third third of of the the cream, cream, stirring stirring with with aa wooden wooden spoon. Add the the rest rest of of the the cream, cream, partly partly whipped. whipped. This This forcemeat forcemeat may may be be prepared prepared in in an an electric electric blender blender and and is used used for for fine fine forcemeat forcemeat balls. balls. Forcemeat Forcemeat for for pAt6 pâté of of foie foie gras gras or or potted potted foie foie gras. gras. FARCE FARCE poun POUR pAri PÂTÉ ouTERRINE OUTERRINE DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 375 375 g. g. (13 (13 oz.) lean pork, pork, 450 450 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) lb.) fresh fresh pork pork fat, fat, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) gras, 4 4 teaspoons teaspoons Spiced Spiced salt salt (see (sec SALT), SAL Tl, 1 1 dl. dl. fresh foie gras, (6 (6 tablespoons, scant scant11 cup) cup) brandy. brandy. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the meats meats finely finely in in a a mortar. mortar. Add Add the the seasoning and seasoning and the the brandy. brandy. Rub Rub through through a a sieve. sieve. pEnIGouRDINE - Make P6rigourdine FARCE PER IGOURDINE Make with with Périgourdine forcemeat. forcemeat. rlnct chopped breadcrumbs breadcmmbs steeped in in clear clear soup soup or or milk, milk, and and chopped or pork chopped ham fresh fresb pork pork or chopped ham or pork fat. fat. Add Add chopped chopped parsley parsley salt, pepper, egg yolks. and garlic garlic and bind with with egg yolks. Season Season with with salt, peppcr, cabbage leaves, spices. Wrap and and spiees. Wrap in in white white cabbage leaves. cabbage, rolled The The stuffed cabbage, rolled into into a a large large ball, baIl, is is wrapped wrapped (U.S. cheesecloth) and braised. cheesecloth) and in muslin (U.s. braised. chicken' stuff pot-roasted is also also used This forcemeat lIsed to to stuff pot-roasted chicken. This forcemeal is are added added to of the The liver liver and blood blood of the chicken chicken are ta it. il. with PoRc -- Make DE PORC fine. FARcE Pork forcemeat, Pork forcemeat, fine. FARCE FINE FINE DE Make with as Pork pork fat same way fat in pork and in the the same lean pork and pork way as Pork forcemeat, lean sieve. (see below) and rub rub the ordinary (sec ordinary below) and the mixture mixture through through aa sieve. forcemeat. purposes as as ordinary ordinary pork same purposes for the same It is is used used for Jt pork forcemeat. A SAUCISSESsluclssrs DITE CHAIR FARcE DITE cHAIR À ordinary. FARCE Pork forcemea! Pork forcemeat, ordinary. pork pork and and pork lean pork quantities of finely minced of finely Mix equal equal quantities Mix minced Iean (see SAL SALT). sa# (see fat. Season with Spiced salt Season with fat. Tl. etc. vegetables, etc. stuffed vegetablcs, sausages, stu/fed for crépinelles, cripinettes, sausages, Used for Used potted preparatiollS. preparations. pflt6s and and potted for pâtés forcemeat for Poultry forcemeal Poultry pAr6s ET Ingredients. Br TERRINES TERRINEs -- Ingredients. PouR PÂTÉS voLAILLE POlIR FARcE DE DE VOLAILLE FARCE (2 lb.) g. (2 lb.) fresh fresh veal, 900 900 g. oz.) veal, g. (li lb.) poultry, poultry, 200 2A0 g. 575 g. 575 (7 oz.) e.Q (see solt (see Spiced salt g. (2 tablespoons) Spiced oz., 33 tablespoons) pork fat, 50 g. fat, 33 eggs, eggs, 50 Q oz., pork generous cup) (scant I plllt, pint, generous brandy. cup) brandy. 2f dl. dl. (scant SALT), 21 SALT), mortar in aa mortar finely in fat. Pound Pound finely poultry, veal, veal, and and fat. Dice the the poultry. Dice Mix weil. well. the brandy. brandy' Mix eggs and and the Add the the eggs the seasoning. seasoning. Add with the sieve. Rub th through Rub rough aa sieve. poultry. FARCE FARcE roast poultry. poached, braiscd, or roast braised' or for poacbcd, Forcemeat for Forcemeat pocuEES, BRAISÉES, pouR VOLAILLES This stuffing stuffing isis n6nrs -- This uteIsErs, RÔTIES vot,Alrrns POCHÉES, POUR parsley with chopped chopped parsley meat, with sausage meat, made with with sausage usually made usually slowly in in butter butter cookod slowly onion, cooked chopped onion, Sometimes chopped added. Sometimes added. added. are added. soft, and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are very soft, until very until Dice poultry. FARCE FARcE TRlIFFÉE rnurr6n - Diee for truffled trufled pooltry. Forcemeat for Forcemeat gras. (9 oz.) g. (9 raw foie pork fat oz.) raw fat and and 250 250 g. lb.) fresh fresh pork ke. (2i foie gras. 1I kg. Qi lb.) g' to peelings from to from 800 800 g. cleaned peelings the cleaned Add the mortar. Add in aa mortaL Pound in pepper, and and aa with salt, salt, pepper, (11 lb Season with truffies. Season lb to Ztlb.) to 2* kg. (Il 1I kg. lb.) truffies. take itit very smooth, smooth, take mixture isis very pinch of the mixture spices. When When the of spices. pinch gently over low fla flame. very low over aa very cook gcntly and cook mortar and out of of the the mortar out me. fine sieve. sieve. Rub through through aa fine Rub (18 oz.) Add ta to itit fat. Add g. (18 truffied fal. of this this truffied oz.) of 500 g. melt 500 Slowly melt SIowly as inin(the peelings peelings having been used, used, as having been peeled truffies truffies (the the peeled Ihe quartered if if large large or or pork fat), fat), quartered the pork flavour the to flavour dicated above, above, to dicated powdered thyme, pepper, powdered thyme, salt, pepper, with salt, Season with small. Seasoll whole ifif smalt whole Leave to 10 10 minutes. minutes. Leave heat for for 88 to low heat on aa low leaf. Poach Poach on and bay bay Ieaf. and quite cold, cold, add add they are are quite When Ihey covered. When cool, covered. to cool, the truffies trufres 10 the mix and mix pork fat. Add aa little little brandy brandy and fat. Add the pork rest of of the to the the rest them to them

(5 (5 oz.) oz.) grated grated fresh fresh pork pork fat. fat. When When it it is is very very hot, hot, put put in in 300 g. (l(III oz.) oz.) trimmed trimmed chicken chicken livers, livers, 15 15 e. g. G (! oz., OZ., 2 2 table300 g. spoons) spoons) chopped shallots, 25 25 g. (l (l oz., oz., I1 cup) mushroom mushroom

+

peelings, peelings, a a sprig of of thyme, thyme, L buy bay leaf. Icaf. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, and and a little spice. spice. Brown the the livers livers quickly over aa hot flame flame to to seal them. [hem. very hot very Leave Leave to to cool. Pound Pound in in a mortar mortar and and rub rub through through aa sieve, sieve, or or reduce reduce to to a a pur6e purée in III an an electric electric blender. blender. Keep Keep in in an earthenware container in in a a cool cool place, place, and and cover cover with buttered buttered paper. paper. Prepared in in this this way, way, the the forcemeat will will keep keep for for several several days. It is spread on the the crottons croûtons of of fried bread bread which are used used as salmis as a base base for small roast game birds, or served with salmis and civets. civets. A À gratin game game forcemeat. FARcr FARCE A À cnern GRATIN DE DE cIBIER GIBIER Proceed Proceed as as for for A À gratin gratin calves' ca/ves' liver /iver forcemeal, forcemeal, using using the following ingredients:: following ingredients g. of game, 250 g. 250 g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) livers livers of of various various types types of game, 100 100 g. (9 oz.) young rabbit meat, 50 g. g. (4 oz.) belly of pork, 250 g. (9 g. (1 (2 oz.) foie gras, gras, 25 25 g. oz., 2 tablespoons) butter, 3 egg (2 oz) foie 0 o2.,2 (se SA Game SAUCE) yolks, sauce (see Espagnole sauce UeE) made made with with Came yolks, Espagnole (see f'UVnT), fumet (see FUMET), seasoning and and spices as as for for A À gratin gralin fumet (6 tablespoons, seant! scant 1 cup) .up) dl. (6 calves' forcemeat, I1 dl. calves' liver forcemeat, Madeira. Madeira. gratin purposes as as A This stuffing stuffing is is used used for for the the same purposes À gratin for hot is especially especially used liver forcemeat. forcemeal. lt lt is used for hot pdtds pâtés calves' calves' /iver and game pies. and currN os gratin poultry forcemeat. r.lncs À poultry liver liver forcemeat, FARCE A À GRATIN DE A gratin gratin ca/yesO liver calves' /iver for A as for À gratin FOIES DE VOLAILLE -- Proeeed Proceed as FoIEs DE VoLAILLE quantity of of trirruned trimmed an equal equal quantity substituting an forcemeat, substituting forcemeat, for pdtis used for This is is used livers. This poultry calves' Iivers. livers for for the the calves' poultry Iivers pâtés preparations. and potted preparations. and MoUssELINE DITE MOUSSELINE A LA rl CREME, cRirrar, DITE FARCE À forcemeat. FARCE Mousseline forcemeat. Mousseline poultry, or game, (2+ lb.) or game, veal, poultry, lb.) boned boned veal, Ingredienls. 1I kg. -- Ingredients. kg. (2;jegg removed, 44 egg etc. removed, tendons, etc. with aU all gristle, tendons, trimmed and with trimmed and (2f pints, pints) thick fresh cream, cream, 33 thick fresh pints, }1 3f pints) 1| litres litres (2i whites, li whites, teaspoon white pepper. teaspoons salt, iI teaspoon Season. Add finely in in aa mortar. mortar. Season. Pound the the meat meat finely Method. Pound i'vfethod. pounding weIl. through well. Rub through time, pounding little at at aa time, whites aa Iittle the egg whites Keep itit spoon. Keep wooden spoon. with aa wooden vigorously with sieve. Stir Stir vigorously aa fine fine sieve. cream aa hours. Then Then add add the the cream possible, for for 22 hours. cool, on on iee ice if if possible, cool, on iee ice if possible. stirring weIl, well, on little at at aa time, time, stirring little mousselines. mousses and and mousselines. balls, mousses for fine fine forcemeat forcemeat balls, Use Use for p.l,N.c,oE ET AU Er Ali A LA rn PANADE FARCE À with butter. butter. FARCE forcemeat witll Panada Pana da forcemeat (2+ lb.) poultry, bOlled boned veal or or pouItry, kg. (2t lb.) veal BEURRE -- Ingredients. Ingredienls. 1I kg. BEURRE g. gristle and removed, 500 500 g. and tendons tendons removed, all gristle with ail and and trimmed, trimmed, with (18 oz., whole eggs, eggs, (18 Ol.) panada, 500 oz.,2f,cups) 500 g. oz.) panada, (18 2* cups) butter, 44 whole e. (l8 pinch pepper, pinch white pepper, yolks, 22 teaspoons salt, j teaspoon teaspoon white teaspoons salt, 88 yolks, grated nutmeg. nutmeg. grated mortar with with poultry. Pound in aa mortar Pound in veal or or poultry. Method. Diee Dice the the veal Method. panada. put in the panada. in the the mortar mortar and and put Take out out of of the seasoning. Take seasolling. pound vigorously. vigorously. the meat meat and and pound Add butter. butter. Put Put back back the Add yolks, one Rub the the forceforcetime. Rub one al at aa time. the yolks, Add the the eggs eggs and and the Add wooden spoon spoon well with with aa wooden Work weil fine sieve. sieve. Work meat through through aa fine meat in an an may be be made made in This forcemeat forcemeat may very smooth. smooth. This untiI until very blender. electric blender. electric to moulds, and to borders, mou balls, borders, for forcemeat forcemeat balls, used for 1tIt isis used Ids, and poultry, etc. stuff poultry, etc. stuff plNlnn (game). FARCE r,c, PANADE FARcE ÀA LA butter (game). with butter forcemeat with Panada forcemeat Panada (crnrrn) -- Proceed above recipe recipe for the the above as for Proceed as Er Ali AU BEURRE BEURRE (GIBIER) ET game. trimmed game. boned and and trimmed using using boned moulds, borders, mou for forcemeat forcemeat balls, balls, borders, This stuffing stuffing isis used used for This Ids, game birds. stuff game birds. and 10 to sluff and

(I±

±

+

thoroughly. thoroughly. u GRAISSE, curssn, ÀA rlncs ÀA GODfVEAU coorveau ÀA LA forcemeat I.I. FARCE Quenelle Qlrenelle forcemeat 387 387

FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS LA GLACE cLAcE -- Ingredients. Ingredienls. 1I kg. (2+ lb.) kg. (2~ lb.) lean lean veal gristle veal wilh with grislle LA (18 oz.) and tendons tendons removed, removed, 500 500 g.g. (18 oz.) well-dried well-dried beef beef suet, suet, and whole eggs, eggs, 44 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, l teaspoon pepper, teaspoon white white pepper, 88 whole pinch graled grated nulmeg, (lt lb.) nutmeg, 800 800 g.g. (I~ lb.) chopped chopped ice, ice, or or failing failing pinch (l+ pints, pints, li this, 77 dl. dl. (I~ pints) iced lj pinls) iced water. water. tbis, Mince the Method. Mince the veal veal and and the the suet suet separately. separately. Add Add the the Melhod. seasoning. Still keeping Ihem Still keeping pound Ihe thern separate, separate, pound the veal veal and and seasoning. the suet. suet. Then Then put put them them together together and pound 10 and pound paste. to aa fine fine pas the te. Add the the eggs, pounding. Rub eggs, one one by by one, one, still still pounding. Rub through through aa Add fine sieve. sieve. Spread Spread the mixture out plate, and the mixture out on on aa plaIe, and leave leave itit on on fine ice tiU till the the next next day. day. ice Pound the the stuffing stuffing once once more more in in the the mortar, mortar, adding adding the the Pound ice, broken broken into pieces and into small small pieees put in gradually. Mix and put in gradually. Mix weIl. well. ice, Test the the foreemeat forcemeat by poaching aa small by poaehing piece. Add small piece. Add aa little little Test iced water water if if ilit isis too too firm; firm; aa little little white white of if too of egg egg if too soft. soft. iced This stuffing stuffing isis made made inlo into forcemeat forcemeat balls balls which which are are served served This pies, or invol-au-venf garnish large or pies, or used used to to garnish large cuts cuts ofmeat of meat or or vol-au-vent or in poultry. poultry. II. FARŒ forcemeat II. rancs ÀA GODIVEAU coorvsA.u ÀA LA ra CRÈME cnirr,m Quenelle foreemeat Quenelle Ingredimts. 1I kg. kg. (2;;' lb.) trimmed trimmed noix noix or or loin loin 'of bf veal, veal, 1I kg. kg. Qi lb.) Ingredients. (2* lb.) lb.) beef beef suet, suet, 44 whole yolks, 77 dl. whole eggs, eggs, 33 yolks, pinti, dl. (1 ~ pints, (2~ pints) fresh lf pints) fresh cream, cream, 44 teaspoons teaspoons salt, pepper, salt, 11 teaspoon teaspoon pepper, l! pinch nutmeg. nutmeg. pinch Method. Pound Pound the the chopped chopped veal veal and and suet suet in in aa mortar mortar Melhod. separately, then then mix mix them. them. Add Add the the seasoning, seasoning, the the eggs eggs and and separately, yolks, one one by one, mixing mixing vigorously. vigorously. Rub Rub through through aa fine fine yolks, by one, sieve and and spread spread il it out out weIl well on on aa board. board. Leave Leave on on ice ice until until sieve the next next day. day. the Pound the the sluffing stuffing ouce once more more in in the the mortar, mortar, adding adding the the Pound cream aa [itUe little at at aa time. time. cream Test the as indicated in the the preceding recipe, Test the forcemeat forccrneat as indicated in preeeding recipe, adjusting the the consislency consistenry if if necessary. This forcemeat is adjusting necessary. This forcemeat is used in same way way as as Quenelle Quenelle forcemeat used in the the same forcemeal I. l. forcemeat balls. A GODIVEAU coorwau -- These These balls Quenelle forcemeat Quenelle balls, runcr FARŒ À balls can be are usually can be piped piped through through aa forcing-bag, forcing-bag, but but they they are usually rolled by and poached salt water. rolled by hand hand and poached in in salt water. They can also They can also be be poached poached dry, dry, as as follows: follows: Pipe onto buttered Pipe the the forcemeat forcemeat through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag onlo buttered paper sheet. Put paper laid laid on on a a buttered buttered baking baking sheet. Put the the balls balls fairly fairly close Cook in 8 minutes. close together. together. Cook in a a moderate moderate oven oven for for 77 to to 8 minutes. When When little liule pinkish pinkish beads beads of of fat fat begin begin to to appear appear on on the the surface, surface, the the balls balls are are ready. ready. Take Take them them out out of of the the oven. oyen. Overturn Overtum on on aa board board or or marble marble slab, slab, peel peel off oIf the the paper, paper, holding holding it il at at one one corner. corner. Use Use as as required. required. Verl Veal forcemeat foreemeat for for borderg bord ers, large large strfred stulJed forcemeat forcemeal ballg balls, lininEs linings (for (for the the presentatim presentation of of hot hot entrees). entrées). FARcE FARCE DE DE vEAU VEAU poLJR BoRDURES, cRossns euENELrss rounnfts, FoNDs DE POUR BORDURES, GROSSES QUENELLES FOURRÉES, FONDS DE pLAr - Ingredients. I kg. (2t lb.) lean veal, 300 g. PLAT - Ingredients. l kg. (2;\ lb.) lean veal, 300 g. (Il oz.) oz.) Flour Flour panada panada (see (see PANADA), PANADA), 55 whole whole eggs, eggs, 88 yolks, yolks, l! 1~ dl. dl. cold Bichamel Gl (;\- pint,3 pint,! cup) cup) very very thick, thick, cold Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAU-E), SAUCE), 33 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, I teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nulmeg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the veal veal finely finely in in aa mortar mortar with with seasoning. seasoning. Take Take it it out out of of the the mortar rnortar and and put put the the panada panada in in its ils place. place. Pound Pound until until it it is is very very creamy. creamy. Add Add the the veal vea] and and pound pound thoroughly. thoroughly. Add Add the the eggs eggs and and yolks, yolks, one one at at aa time, time, then then the the bichamel béchamel sauce. sauce. Rub Rub through through aa sieve. sieve. Work Work with with aa spatula spatula until it is until it is very very smooth. smoolh. veal Veal and and port pork forcemat. foreemea!. FARCE FARCE DE DE VEAU VEAU ET ET DE DE PORC PORC Chop Chop 300 300 g. g. (11 (Il oz.) oz.) round round of of veal, veal, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) lean lean pork pork and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) fresh fresh fat fat bacon. bacon. Pound Pound together together in in aa mortar, mortar, add add 22 whole whole eggs eggs and and I1 dl. dl. (6 salt (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant It cup) cup) brandy, brandy, season season with with Spiced Spiced salt (see (see SALT) SALT) and and rub rub through through aa sieve. sieve.

Anchovy foreemeat forremeat J.f. FARCE r.lnce AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Make Make aa white white Anchovy roux of of 1I tablespoon tablespoon buller butter and and 22 tablespoons tablespoons fioul. flour. Moisten Moisten roux (6 tablespoons, with 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant !cup) boiling milk. milk. Cook Cook for for with I cup) boiling few minutes minutes over over aa very very hot hot fla flame, stirring with with aa wooden wooden aa few me, stirring spoon. When When very very thiek, thick, remove remove from from the the stove. stove. spoon. Add 1I whole yolks, and whole egg, eEE,2 and the the filJets fillets of of 44 desalted desalted Add 2 yolks, anchovies. Rub Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Cook Cook for for aa few few seconds, seconds, anchovies. stirring. Rub Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. stirring. This stuffing stuffing isis used used as filling for as aa filling for savoury savoury tarts, tarts, dartois, Thil; dartois, pdtis, pies, pies, etc. small pâlés, etc. small (Car6me's recipe). Anchovy forcemeat forcemeat II, tr. (Carême's FARcE D'ANCHOIS recipe). FARŒ D'ANcHors Anchovy 'Soak 275 g. (10 (10 oz.) 275 g. oz.) anehovies anchovies to to remove remove the the salt; salt; c1ean clean -"- 'Soak and bone bone them. them. Toss Toss for (4 oz., for 22 minutes minutes in g. (4 in 100 100 g. oz.,1c.rp) and t cup) seasoned with butter, seasoned with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fines butter, fines pinch of herbes, aa pinch of nutmeg, nutmeg, and (see and aa very very little little Spiced Spiced salt sclt (see herbes, SALT). SALT). 'When the the mixture mixture isis cold, pound the eold, pound the fillets fillets of of anchovy anchovy 'When (6 oz.) g. (6 with 175 panada (see 175 g. (see PANADA). Add oz.) Bread panada Add the with the cooking butter butter with with the thefines herbes. Pound Pound Ihis this mixture mixture for for cooking fines herbes. (4 oz., g. (4 add 100 100 g. (crayfish butter oz.,lt cup) cup) butter (crayfish 55 minutes, add butter or or some other yolks. Mix other kind) kind) and and 33 egg egg yolks. Mix weIl.' well.' sorne This mixture mixture is is used used mostly mostly for for stuffing stuffing large large fish. fish. It It can This can also be be used used ta to stuft' stuff vegetables, vegetables, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, mushmushalso rooms, tomatoes, tomatoes, etc. etc. to to provide aa Lenten dish. rooms, Freshwater crayfish crayfiS forcemeal. forcemeat. FARCE FARcE D'ÉCREVISSES o'fcnsvlssns Fresbwater Proceed as for Prawn or shrimp forcemeat (see as for (see below). Procecd Cream fisb fsh forcemeat forcemeat (L~mten), (Lenten). FARCE (r,r.llcnu) FARcE À A LA rn CRÈME cnirr,m (MAIGRE) Cream Proceed as as indicated indicated for for veal poultry Mousseline veal or or poultry -- Proceed Mousseline fish instead instead of rneal. meat. Pike, whiting, or sorne forcemeat, using fish some other suitable suitable fish may be used. other porssoN Fish foreemeat forcemeat l. I. FARCE Elncr DE Fish DE POISSON Ingredients. 1I kg. - Ingrediens. (2+ lb.) lb.) pike other white-fleshed g. (14 fish), 400 4gp g. oi.) (2t pike (or (or other whitc-fieshed fish), Oa oz.) Frangipane panada (see PANADA), 44 egg or Rice panada or Riœ panada panada (see whites, 44 teaspoons salt, LI teaspoon pepper and and aa small whites, teaspoons salt, pinch grated nutmeg. of grated pinch of Method. as Quenelle Melhod. Prepare as j'orcemeal IL li. Quenelle forcemeat FiS Fish forcemeat tr. FARcE FARCE DE porssoN POISSON - Chop finely 300 g. (ll g. (7 (7 oz.,3l (lI oz.) whiting whiting or or other white fish. fish. Add 200 200 g. oz., 3t cups) soaked in cups) breadcrumbs, soaked in milk milk and and squeezed, squeezcd, 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., it cup) butter, butter, I1 tablespoon choppod chopped blanched chives, chivei, I1 tablespoon Season with salt, tablespoon chopped chervil chervil and parsley. parsley. Season pepper, pepper, and nutmeg. nutrneg. Bind with 2 eggs. eggs. Mix thoroughly. Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat for for fr$ fisil nousses mousses and and mousselines. mousselines. FARCE FARCE MOUS$LINE MOUSSELINE POIjR POUR MOUSSES MOUSSES ET ET MOUSSELINES MOUSSELINES DE DE polssoNs lb.) skinned and boned POISSONS -- Ingredients. Ingredients. I1 kg. (2+ (2ilb.) boned pike, whiting, whiting, sole, sole, salmon, or or trout, trout, 4 egg whites, whites, lf li litres (2{ (2;\pints, pints, 2f; 2~ pints) pints) fresh fresh cream, cream, lf lt teaspoons salt, jt teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nutrneg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the fish fish in in a mortar mortar with the the seasoning. seasoning. Add Add the the egg egg whites, whites, a a little little at at a a time. time. Rub the mixture through through a fine fine sieve. Stir on ice ice until until very very smooth smooth and and leave leave on on the the ice ice for for 2 2 hours. hours. Add Add the the cream, cream, a little little at a a time, time, stirring stirring gently gently with with a spatula. spatula. This This mixture mixture is is used used for for light light fish fish quenelles, quenelles, mousses, mousses, and and mousselines, mousselines, and also also for for stuffing stuffiug large large braised braised fish. fish. Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat with with butter butter @enten). (Lenten). M,ncs FARCE A À r,c, LA IANADE PANADE ET ET AU AU BEURRE BEURRE (rrHrcnr) (MAIGRE) - Proceed Proceed as as for for veal veal or or chicken chicken Panadaforcemeat Panadtlforcemeat with wilh butter butter using using pike, pike, whiting, whiling, or or some sorne other other suitable suitable fish. fish. This This isis used uscd for for plain plain fish fish quenelles, quenelles, borders, borders, moulds, rnoulds, and and for for stuffing stuffing large large fish. fish. Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat for for fi$ fisil and and shelffish sbellfisb mtltrsses. mousses. FARcE FARCE por.JR MoussEs DE porssoNs E'r DE cRusrAcfs (A u rlNlon) POUR MOUSSES DE POISSONS ET DE CRUSTACÈS (À LA PANADE)Proceod Proceed as as for for Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat forcemeat for for fish fish mousses, mousses, using using the following ingredients: (2* I kg. lb.) boned and skinned the following ingredients: 1 kg. (2~ lb.) boned and skinned fish, fish, 450 450 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) lb.) Frangipane Frangipane panada panada (see (see PANADA), PANA DA), 44 egg lt litres litres (2| (2~ pints, pints, 3f 3± pints) pinls) cream, eream, salt, salt, pepper, pepper, egg whites, whites, l| grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg.

I

-

(l|

n.

(ll

I

-

FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or or STUFFINGS STUFFINGS MADE MADE WITH WITH FISH. FISH. FARCES FARCES DB DE PorssoNs. POISSONS, cnusmc6s: CRUSTACÉS:

388 388

HAM FORELEG FORELEGHAM vated vated mu$room$ mushrooms, moreb morels., St. St. Goorge's mushroong etc. FARCE fARCE DE DE cHAMpIcNoNS CHAMPIGNONS DIvERs DIVERS - Proceed, using using one one or or other of of these these fungi, first first tossed tosscd in in butter, butter, as as for for Truffie Trulfle jorcemeal (see below). These These forcemeats are are usd used in in the forcemeat

The Tbe addition addition of of the the panada panada to to this this forcemeat forcemeat gives gives it it body, body, but but makes makes it il less less delicate in flavour. ftavour. It is is used used for the the same purposes as Moasseline forcemeat for fish mousses. Pickled herring or sardine forremeat. FARcE DE HARENGS Use fillets sAURs, DE SARDTNEs fiJJels of of pickled herring or f()rt~pm'p{}/ L l. sardines, as for Anchovy forcemeat la lyonnaise, or Pike forcemeat or fuiveau GOOiveau lyonnaise. lyo!lllaÎse. FARCE FARCE DE DE BRoCHET BROCHET A À Ln LA rvor.rNArsn, LYONNAISE, DITE GoDTvEAU GODIVEAU LyoNLYONNAIsE NAISE - Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz.) skinned and boned pike, pike, 500 g. (18 oz.) trimmed and and minced mînced beef beef suet, 500 g. (18 oz.) teaFrangipane Fran.gipane panada (see (see PANADA) PANADA) 4 egg egg whites, whites, Zf, 2± teaspoons salt, f; teaspoon pepper, pinch nutmeg. Method. Melhod. Pound the fat, the panada, and the egg whites in a mortar. morlar. Add the pike and the seasoning. Work the stuffing stuffing vigorously Vl""H'''''''V with with the the pestle. pestle. Rub Rub through a a fine tine sieve sieve and work with a a spatula until the mixture is very smooth. An An electric blender can be used. This This forcemeat forcemeat is is used used for for large large fish fish balls balls known known as quenelles lyonnaises. To make these, these. shape the forcemeat in a a spoon and poach in salt water. Simmer for l0 10 minutes in În with them, the served with the sauce sauce to to be be served them, usually usually a a meatless (se SAUCE) containing mushrooms, Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (sec SAUCE) containing stoned olives, olives, truffies, truffles, and other small delicacies. sauce such with aa thick are served with When pike quenelles are thiek sauce When other white as Nantua, lobster, shrimp, white whÎte wine or any olher as shellfisfu they sauce suitable for fish and shellfish, they should simply be poached drainrng and and drying them in salt water. After poacherl in salt Afler draining in a artichoke on artichoke on bread cloth, serve serve them cloth. them on bread fried fried in in butter, bUller, on with the sauce cover wlth hearts, or on flaky pastry. Garnish, and cover indicated indicated in the Ihe selected recipe. DE CREVETTES cREvETTES forcemeat. FARCE Prawn or shrimp forccmeat. FARCE DE - Pound (4 oz., with g. (4 or shrimps with o2.,3 in aa mortar mortar 100 100 g. prawns or in "up) to sieve. Add 10 g. ((4 oz., It cup) butter. through a fine butter. Rub fine sieve. 100 g. of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, of yolks of its volume volume of this mixture half its well. sieve. Mix weil. rubbed through lhrough aa fine tine sieve. hors-d'euvre. This mixture is used for cold hors-d'œuvre. FrNE DE DE CRUSTAcF.S cnusuc6s fine. FARCE rlncs FINE Shellfish forcemeat, Bne. Shelffish cream forcemeat, indicated for shellfish, as as indicated using shellfish, A LA r,c, CRÈME cRit'fi - Proceed, Proceed, using À for Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat for for jish ftsh mousses. used for for quenelles. This is used

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same same way way as as truffie trume forcemeat. forcemeaL Garlic forcemeat forcemeat - See GARLIC. GARLlC. Raviofi Ravioll forcemeat forcemeat - See RAVIOLI. RA VIOU.

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Sage and onion oniOIl forcemeat forcemeat @ngli$ (English cookery). r'rlRcE FARŒ A À LA LA sAUcE SAUGE - Used Used to stuff stutr poultry, especially duck duck and and goose. goose.

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Bake Bake 2 large onions in their skins in the oven. oven. Leave Leave to to cool. Skin and chop them. Mix Mil< with with 150 1 g. (5 (5 o2.,2| oz., 2! cups) breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, which which have been dipped dappe
thoroughly. Trufle forcemeat lorCernejlt (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). FARcE FARCE Aux AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES 'Chop 'Chop 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) black truffies, trumes, and toss them for for a a few (4 oz., i~ c,rp) butter with Spiced Spiced minutes minutes in 100 g. (4 butter seasoned seasoned with (see SALT) and a touch of nutmeg. Drain salt (see Drain the trufles truffles on 75 e.Q aplate, andpound a and g. (3 oz.) Breadpanada(sePANADA). Breadpanada(see: PANADA). 'When the trufres in the mortar HUmes are cold, cold, put put thern tbem in mOrlar and pound pound them with with the the panada panada for for aa few few minutes. Add Add the cooked, and butter butter in in which the the truffies truffies were were cooked, and pound pound totogether Mix in smooth. Mix gether until untiJ the mixture is is perfectly perfectly smooth. in 3 egg yolks.' yolks.' and winged used for This forcemeat is This is used for stuffing stuffing poultry poultry and is also also used game, and and for for meat meal or fish paupiettes paupielle.ç (q.v.). (q.v.). It It îs in various various hot pdtis. plah. for vegetables (various). FARcE poun r,6cuurs SfutrngF for Sruffings Used to stuff stuff vegetables such as aubergines, small vegetable vegelable artichoke zucchini), tomatoes, marrows (courgettes marrows (courgettes or or zucchini), tomatoes, artichoke hearts, hearts, etc. elc. It Il is is really really aa thickened thickened Duxelles Duxelles sauce (see of the the vegetables, the pulp of which is added the SAUCE) to SAUCE) to which is addcd oil. scooped out after they have beentcooked in oi!. DE JAUNES D'oEUFs-- Cold. Cold. Rub Rub JAUNES D'OEUFS Yolk of egg stuffing. FARcE fARCE DE sieve. Add Add fine sieve. yolks of through aa fine l0 hard-boiled eggs through the yolks of 10 paste. Season with g. (4 (4 oz., t* cup) butter with to aa paste. butter softened to 100 g. pepper, and mix. salt and white pepper, salt mix. hors-d'ouvre, especially especially spread in in co cold This is is used used as as aa spread This Id hors-d'œuvre,

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(see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold horsrusse (see la russe for Canapds àit la for halvod hard-boiJerl hard-boiled for halved used as as filling for d'euvre\. It is is also also used d'œuvre). tartlets barquettes or or t.artlets hearts, and and small barque/les eggs, artichoke artichoke hearts, eggs, garnishes wiÙ1 dishes. served as with cold dîshes. as garnishes yolks of hard-boiled eggs through aa sieve. of hard-boiled .F/ot. Rub the the yolks HOI. Rub thick Bichamel sauce of thick half Iheir their weight of Mix with with half Season. Mix Season. passed through (see SA through aa fine sieve. SAUCE) (sec UCE) passed prehard-boiled eggs to fill fill hard-boile
STUFFINGS. or STUFFINGS. FORCEMEATS or MISCELLANEOUS FORCEMEATS FARCES DlVERSESDIVERSES _ FARCES VARIETY MEATS. forcemeat -- See 0OFFAL Brain forcemeaf FF AL or V A RlETY M EA TS. pouR POISSONS polssoNs - Soak Soak 250 250 g. r.lnct POUR Forcemeat for for ftsh, fish. FARCE Forcemeat (9 oz., them. milk and and squeeze squeeze them. in milk o2.,4| cups) cups) breadcrumbs in (9 g. (3 (3 oz., chopped cup) finely finely ehopped Add 75 75 g. o2.,1 Beat in in aa bowl. Beat %cup) bowl. Add (l oz., g. (1 soft, 25 25 g. in buller until very soft, butter untiJ onion, cooked cooked slowly in onion, the white wine wine until until aH all Ihe cooked in in white shallot, cooked c,rp) chopped shallot, i* cup) g. (4 OZ., chopped raw o2.,2 moisture has evaporated, 100 g. 2 cups) chopped (or 3 tab1espoons tablespoons have been been squeezed squeezed (or mushrooms, which have (scant t cup) chopped tablespoon chopped duxelles),, and and 1 tablespoou cup) dry dry duxelles) (seant pepper, parsley. Bind with salt, salt, pepper, Season with whole eggs. Bind with eggs. Season parsley. with 22 whole and grated nutmeg. and forcefor which which the the forcethe dish dish for According to of the Ac,.:,orOWlg to the nature of garlic may added. may be be added. touch of garlic meat is is to to be used, used, aa toueh potssoNs À poun POISSONS A fish. FARŒ rmcr POlJ'R Forcemeat Forceneat à la la provengale for Ilsb. (4 oz., g. (4 oz., 1I cup) finely 100 g. Cook slowly slowly 100 LA pRovENgALE (* cup) very cup) oit oil until very in 44 tablespoons tablespoons (1 chopped onions ln garlic and g. and 150 150 g. chopped clove of garlic Add aa finely finely chopped clove of tender. Add (5 oz., few for aa few raw mushrooms. Brown Brown for oz.,2f cups) chopped chopped raw (5 2{- cups) seconds. seconds. g. (9 oz., pan from 250 g. from the the stove stove and and add add 250 Remove the the pan Remove grated breadcrumbs, 1I tablespoon chopped 4{ cups) freshly freshly grated 4! parsley and and chervil, and 3 chives, tablespoon chopped parsley tablespoon chopped chives, hard-boiled eggs. eggs. chopped hard-boiled chopped salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Season Season witb with salt, Forcemeat of of various fungi and mushrooms, cipes, cultiForCêmeat

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41

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growing vegetablcs vegetables and and of growing Process of FORCING. FoRgAcE -- Process glass in order ripen them them before before their their time. time. to ripen fruit under glass order to fruit 'forced'products. called 'forced' These products are are then then called These products. fruits and and vegetables is is these fruits The distinguishing quality of these The price. Good cooks seldom buy Good cooks their rarity and their high priee. theu proper season. products in iniheir season. them, preferring to use these products their proper

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PocIrE - Funnel-shapep FORCINC-BAG (U.S. Pastry-bag). POCHEFORCING-BAG (French douilles) of nozzles (French bag which which cau can be fitted with nozzles bag with made with These nozzles nozzles are are made sizes. Thes.e different shapes shapes and and sizes. different plain or or fluted, fluted, so so which can can be be plain apertures which large or or sm small large ail apertures piped in in aa wide wide range range of of be piped can be mixtures can that creamy mixtures that decorative designs.

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The French French word word TAMBoNNEAU HAM. JAMBONNEAU FORELEG HAM. FORELEG The 389 389

FORESTIERE FORESTIÈRE (A (À LA) jambonneau which is is sometimes sometimes translated as as foreleg ham, ham, or picnic picnic ham in the U.S.A., refers to the portion below the ham and hind legs legs of the pig. pig. (See harn or shoulder of both fore and HAM.) HAM.)

QUATRE EptcssÉPICES - A much used mixture, for FOUR SPICES. SPICES. euArRE which, purveyor had aa special formula. which, formerly, each purveyor formula. The most usual is the following: following: (* oz.) powdered cloyes, 125 e. g. g (4 oz.) white pepper, l0 10 e. g. (t n5 cloves, (generous I1 oz.) grated nutmeg. (l oz.) ginger, 35 g. 30 g. (1 g. (generous

fOnfSffDRE FORESTIÈRE (A (À LA) --

Method of preparation of smalJ small cuts of meat and poultry, garnished ofmeat garnished with with morels, morels, lean larding bacon bacon cut in large large pieces, and diced potatoes fried in butter. butter.

FOUR YELLOW YELLOW FRUITS. FRUITS F'OUR FRUITS. QUATRE euArRE FRUrrs Oranges, lemons, lemons, bitter bitter oranges, and citrons. citrons. Oranges,

(See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.)

FOX. nsxlno RENARD - Animal Animal ranking as vermin. Its flesh f1esh is very tough and with an extremely unpleasant 'wild' taste, but it tough eaten after the the animal animal has has been been skinned and is sometimes eaten f1esh soaked in running water or boiling water. the flesh

FOR](, FouRcHErrE FOURCHETTE - Table utensil utensil designed designed to to pick up FORK meat food. It It is is of very very ancient ancient origin origin as as it is meat and and other food. mentioned in the Old Testament. It was first used used as a ritual instrument to to grip grip pieces pieces of meat meat destined for for sacrifices; sacrifices; later it was used in the kitchen. kitchen. According to the eleventh eleventh century Italian Italian scholar, Damiani, Damiani, forks forks were introduced introduced into century Byzantine princess and thence spread through Venice by a Byzantine Italy. They are mentiond mentioned in in 1379 1379 in in an an inventory of the French king, king, Charles Charles V; V; and and Edward Edward II II of of England's England's French favourite, favourite, Piers Gaveston, Gaveston, is recorded recorded as having having eaten a pear pear the early fourteenth fourteenth century. century. However, eating with a fork in the not become fashionable fashionable until until the the sevensevenwith forks forks did did not with century. teenth centurv.

COOKERY, WINE. FRANCE -- See See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, FRANCHE-COMTÉ -- Mountainous region in the western FRANCHF-COMTE part of the Belfort Gap, surrounded surrounded by regions regions abundant in edible products products and famous famous wines. In edible ln the north are Lorraine inc1uding the Bugey, which and Alsace; in the south Savoy, including a great centre of fine fine cuisine. To west it borders on is a To the west Bresse, and and Champagne. To the east Burgundy, Bresse, To the east its its immediate neighbour neighbour is Switzerland. The mediate The geographical position of Franche-Comt6 Franche-Comté has influenced its inhabitants inhabitants to be great of gastronomes. gastronomes. A variety of excellent foods is produced in this province. Franche-Comté and the Jura, the beef beef cattle are famous In Franche-Comt6 their well-flavoured well-f1avoured meat and and high-quality milk, milk, from for their cheese and and other other dairy dairy products products are are made. made. In In the which cheese orchards of Franche-Comt6, Franche-Comté, excellent excellent fruit, fruit, particularly particularly orchards an abundant stone fruit, is grown. This part of France has an variety of of game. In the rivers, streams, streams, and ponds, ponds, numerous variety quantities. The inhabitants in habitants kinds of fish are found in great quantities. cook them them in in delicious delicious ways, ways, notably in in succulent stews. cook stews. red mullet, pike Known for their delicacy are Saulon carp, red Doubs and and Dessoubs Dessoubs trout, trout, and and Breuchin Breuchin from Ognon, Ognon, Doubs from trout the the flesh f1esh of which is is very well weil flavoured. f1avoured. In salmon trout Breuchin there there are also good crayfish. the Breuchin Franche-Comté include inc1ude Septmoncel, Septmoncel, which which Chee ses from Franche-Comtd Cheeses knowledgeable people consider a rival to Roquefort, some knowledgeable Comté cheese, which is a kind of Gruydre, Gruyère, Fromagdre, Fromagère, and Comt6 Fromage fort. Fromage

dfl

Renaissance forks

-In the seventeenth seventeenth century, century, use use of the the fork, which was originally two-pronged, two-pronged, then three-pronged, and later la ter fouroriginally pronged, pronged, spread spread from from Italy Italy and and Spain Spain into into France France and England. England. An English English traveller named Thomas Thomas Coryate is bringing the the use use of the the fork to England after a credited with bringing trip to 1608. to Italy in 1608. While in Paris in in 1612, Coryate Coryate remarked that the the fork While was though not yet amongst the the comwas used used in good society, though mon people. H6rouard Hérouard in the Journal Journal of of Louis Louis XIZ XIV speaks speaks mon of the the Dauphin beating beating the the table table with his his fork and spoon. spoon. of Modern forks forks are made made in in many sizes and and many metals, metals, as Modern as to to the weil as as in plastics plastics and and woods. woods. Etiquette varies as well proper proper way of of holding holding and using using a fork, and in which hand. FORK LUNCIIEON. LUNCHEON. orretrNm. DÉJEUNER A Àu LA rouncHErrE FOURCHETTE - A meal meal FORK taken towards towards the middle middle of of the the day. day. FOUNT AIN. roxrl'trqs FONTAINE - Term Term employed in pastry-making pastry-making FOUNTAIN. to describe describe placing placing flour f10ur on the the board board in a circle. circle. to various ingredients ingredients used used to to make make the the pastry pastry are then then The various placed placed inside inside the'fountain'. the 'fountain'.

FOURDERAINE -- Home-made Home-made liqueur which used used to to be be FOURDERAIhIE common in in the the north north of of Franoe France and is still sometimes sometimes found common there. The hedge hedge sloes used in making making it are picked picked after after the the there. is prepared in in the the first frost, frost, when when they they are are ripe. This This liqueur liqueur is first same way as as cassis. cassis. s:!me FOURME -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. FOURME

FOUR FOUR MENDICANTS. MENDICANTS. euArRE QUATRE MENDTANTs MENDIANTS -- Dessert Dessert made made up up of figs, figs, raisins, raisins. hazelnuts, hazelnuts, and and almonds, whose whose colours of the the four four mendicant mendicant Orders. colours recall recall those those of

FOUR RED RED FRUITS. FRUITS. eu.rrnr QUATRE FRUrrs FRUITS RoucEs ROUGES berries, cherries, cherries, redcurrants redcurrants and and raspberries. raspberries. berries,

--

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JAUNES TAUNBS -

StrawStrawFranche-Comté (French (French Government Government Tourist Tourisi Office) Office) Franche-Comt6

390 390

FRANCHE-COMTE FRANCHE-COMTl ~

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Pike. Motelote of fish Snails. fimbole graYloise

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Lons-lej-S Barquette of \ duck', Ilver Hot pigeon Sweetbre.d morels

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SAVOY SAVOY of Frar.che-Comte Franche-Comt6 Gastronomic map map or Gastronomie

gratin; cheese an gralin; cheese pain d'écrivisses; marrow au d'ioivisses; marrow cheese fondue; cheese fondue; pain pancakes called called onion /Ourle; tourte; pancakes potatoes; morels toast: onion morels on on loasl; po/alOes,' specially cheese tart tart specially ramekins ; frillers; matefaim ; rumekins; male/àim; flamus se, cheese frit ter s : flamusse, and made with with eggs eggs and flat bread bread made siche, flat made Ln in Burgundy; Burgundy; sèche, made pastry and and almond pas/l'y Baume-les-Dames; a/mond of Baume-les-Dames; sugar; craquelins craquelins of sugar; malakof of of Montb6liard; malakoff viques of of Montbéliard; Montbozon; viques biscuits of of Montbozon; bL5cuils galette de goumeau of of Saint-Amour; Saint-Amour; quiche com/Oise; de goumeau comtoise; ga/elle DOle; quiche Dôle; chestnut of Baume-les-Dames; Baume-les-Dames; ches/nu/ gaufres de de chanoinesses chanoinesses of gaufres paste made from made from Dole; pas/e pain d'épice Vercel and and Dole; of Vercel d'dpice of cakes; pain cakes; andwhortlebilberry and quinces growing growing in Baumeles-Dames; bilberry in Baume-les-Dames; quinces who rllejam l'rom Melisey. from Melisey. berry jam berry (and particularly particularly Franche-Comt6 (and Wines and and liqueurs liqueurs -- Franche-Comté Wines produces white, red, red, and and excellent white, Jura) prod of Jura) the déparlemenl dipartemmt of uces excellent the yellow wine, wine, which which the celebrated celebrated yellow not to to mention mention the ros6 wines, wines, not rosé (vins de paille) de paille) and s!raw straw wines wines (vins region, and speciality of of the the region, isis aa speciality and Hermitage, Hermitage. Jura and which are find outside outside Jura are difficu]! difficult to to find which

the specialities specialities among the Foremost among Cutinary specialities specialities -- Foremost CuJinary prepared potie franc-comlOise, which isis prepared porridge, pOlée are maize maize porridge, are franc-comtoise, which has Morteau Morteau (q.v.) from but has potie (q.v.) other regions regions but from other like pOlée Iike panada, aa dish like aa dish like leg soup; soup; panada, to il; it; frog's sausage added added to sausage frog's leg pulp; cherry soup; cherry soup; boiled to to aa pulp; and butter butter boiled soup with with bread bread and soup vegetables. fresh vegetables. soups made made with with fresh range of of soups and aa whole whole range and and can can be be Franche-Comt6 and in Franche-Comté All charculerie charcuterie isis excellent excellent in Ail includes large towns. towns. IlIt includes many other other large in Paris and many bought in Paris and bought kinds of of different kinds from Luxeuil; Luxeuil; different ham, mainly mainly l'rom smoked ham, smoked and Montbozon; and from Montbozon; sausage from sausages including including caraway caraway sausage sausages Besangon. stufed lOngue tongue from from Besançon, slUffed found in in Franche-Comté Franche-Comt6 dishes to to be be round The most most làmous famous dishes The or red red white or fish with with white from freshwater freshwater fish stews made made from are fish are fish Slews very in wine, cooked very wine, cooked herbs; meal meat braised braised in wine, onions onions and and herbs; wine, juices; preserve ail all the the meat meat juices; to preserve casserole to slowly in in aa covered covered casserole slowly jugged hare hare àd /ala fi'anc-comlOise; pike quenelles quenelles of of Vesoul; Vesoul; jugged pike franc-comtoise; 391 391

FRANCILLON SALAD SALAD FRANCILLON yellow wine The yellow wineisismade made from fromthe grape.The theSavagnin Savagningrape. The The distinctive nutty f1avour jaune) demands (gotit de flavour(goût dejaune) demands strictly strictly distinctive nutty controlled and highly specialisod methods of vinification. controlled and highly specialised methods of vinification. fermentation, and conservation. conservation.The The best yellow wine best yellow wine isis fermentation, and that of Chfl teau-Chalon. tha! of Château-Chalon. Straw wine wine isisso-called so-called because grapes are because the the grapes aresun-dried sundried Straw on straw mats mats before pressed. before being being pressed. on straw The Jura appellations appellationsare: are: The Jura Yellow wines. wines. Arbois, Arbois, Côtes C6tes du du Jura, Jura, Château-Chalon, Chdteau-Chalon, Yel/ow Etoile. Étoile. Straw wines. wines. Arbois, Cdtes du Jura, Etoile. Straw Arbois, Côtes du Jura, Étoile. Red and rosi wines. Arbois. C6tes du Jura. Red and rosé wines. Arbois, Côtes du Jura. While wines. Arbois, C6tes du Jura, Etoile. White wines. Arbois, Côtes du Jura, Étoile. Some well-known well-known liqueurs liqueurs are are also also made made in in FrancheFrancheSorne Comt6. The The kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly well known. Comté. kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly weU known.

Since 1888, 1888, various various laws laws have havedefined defined the thercpression repression of Since of fraudulent practices practices inin the the marketing marketing of goods. Acts of goods. Acts and and fraudulent decreeshave have been, been, and and continue continue toto be passed to protect be passed to protect decrees drink and produce. and food food produce. drink In France, France, from from the the Middle Middle Ages Ages onwards, quality and onwards, quality and ln quantity were were under understrict strict surveillance. surveillance. River ports, markets, River ports, markets, quantity and shops shops were wereail allcontrolled. controlled. Thus Thus in in 1577 1577 Henri Henri III III ordered ordered and all bakers bakers to pair of to keep keep aa pair of scales scales and and legitimate legitimate weights weights inin ail their windows, windows, workrooms, workrooms, and and carts, carts,50 so that that each each eus customer theu tomer might check check the the weight weight of his bread of his bread himself. himself. ln ln the rhe eigheighmight teenth century, century, the the Police Police Code Code added that the addod that thescales scales had had to to teenth be hung hung sufficiently sufficiently high high to preclude the to preclude possibility of the possibility of the the be seller tipping tipping itit with with rus his thumb. thumb. seller Fraudulent practices were severely reprimanded: were severely reprimanded : penalties penalties Fra udulent practices included the the confiscation confiscation of goods, demolition of goods, demolition of of ovens, ovens, aa included fine or or an an amende amende honorable, honorable, and, and, in in the Middle Ages, the Middle Ages, fine public flogging. flogging. public In 1431, 1431, if if aa cookshop proprietor sold cookshop proprietor sold aa cat cat for for aa rabbit, rabbit, ln he was was condemned condemned to go to to go to the the banks banks of of the the Seine Seine in in the the he part of busiest part of the the day day and and shout shout an an apology apology to to the the crowd crowd busiest while throwing throwing the the offending offending cat cat into the the river. river. The The butchers butchers while were forbidden forbidden to pigs nourished to buy buy pigs nourished on human blood. on human blood. It It were was forbidden forbidden to to sell sell reheated reheated meat, meat, to keep meal to keep meat more more than than was two days days in in win winter and one one and and aa half days days in in summer, summer, to two ter and sell meat meat by by lamplight lamplight or or candlelight candlelight (such (such Iights lights made made it it sell easier for for discoloured, putrid meal discoloured, putrid passed off as meat to to be be passed as rosy easier and fresh). fresh). A A regulation regulation in in 1399 1399 controlled controlled the the time time of of day day and during which which candies candles might might be used. during On22 June 1351 l35l sorne some suspect meat was confiscated confiscated in Ihe the On 22 June master butcher Bardel's shop in in rue Baudet-Saint-Antoine. mas ter butcher Bardel's shop Baudet-Saint-Antoine. The Corporation, Corporation, outraged outraged that one of of their members The that one their members should disgraced himself, demanded thal that he he be shou Id have have disgraced himself, demanded be condemned. He accused as demned. He was was accused as a poisoner poisoner and was taken to the pillory in Les subsequently put to death. pillory in Les Halleswhere Halles where he he was was subsequently paris butchers One hundred One hundred and and twenty-seven twenty-seven bareheaded bareheaded Paris witnessod execution of witnessed the the execution of their their confrire. confrère.

IilUUYCIIr.ON SALAn SALN) - Title Title of of aa Japanese Japanese. salad, salad, the the FRANCILLON recipe for given by for which which was younger Alexandre was given by the the younger Alexandre recipe Dumas in play Francillon in aa play performed at Francillon perfonned at the the ComédieCom6dieDumas Francaise. The The recipe recipe for for this potatoes, this salad, salad, of of mussels, mussels, potatoes, Francaise. and truffies, trufres, will will be be found found under under SALAD. SALAD. and FRANCOLIN Wild bird bird resembling resembling aa partridge, partridge, found found in in FRANCOLIN -- Wild wann countries, especially in Sicily and Greece. Its flavour warm countries, especially in Sicily and Greece. Ils f1avour is something like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared is something like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared in the same same way. in the way.

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FRANGIPANE Mixture of of flour, flour, egg yolks, butter, egg yolks, butter, and and FRANGIPANE - Mixture milk, which which isis cooked (cream puB) cooked like like aa chou pvfr) pastry. chou (cream milk, paslry. Used in poultry and fish forcemeat. Used in poultry and fish forcemeat. FRANGIPANE CREAM -- Cream Cream used preparation in the the preparation FRANGIPANE CREA.c'\1 used in of different different desserts desserts or or sweets sweets and and cakes, cakes, made made like of like French French pastry uearn (see CREAM). pastry creonl (see CREAM). Ingredients. g. (9 generous 250 oz., cup) sugar, g. 250 g. Ingredients. 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) sugar, 250 (9. o2.,2| c3ns) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs ind 8 egg yolki, (9 oz., 2:\: cups) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs and 8 egg yolks, (2| pints, 3f pints) lf litres pints) milk and flavou-rd If litres (2l pints, :Ji milk boiled boiled and flavoured with with vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz., crrp) butter, vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz., t cup) butter,

i

a pinch

of salt. salt. a pinch of Method. sugar, sieved Melhod. Put Put the the sugar, sieved flour, Hour, and and salt salt into into a a heaw heavy saucepan with a flat bottom. Add the eggs and yolks. Mix saucepan with a flat bottom. Add the eggs and yolks. Mix all the ingredients ail the ingredients thoroughly thoroughly and and add add the the milk milk very very gradugradually.. Cook slowly, stirring all the time, for 2 to 3 minutes. ally. Cook slowly, stirring ail the lime, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the butter and the crushed Add the butter and the crushed macaroons. macaroons. Mix. Mix. FRANKENTAL grape Black also known as FRANKENT AL - Black grape also known as Black Black HamHampurg, and burg, originating originating in in Germany. Germany. The The fruit fruit is is very very large juicy, and is often included in gift baskets of fruit. large and juicy, and is often included in gift baskets of fruit. FRASCATI - See }'RASCATISee RESTAURANTS RESTA URANTS OF OF BycONE BYGONE DAYS. DA YS.

ITREEZINGFREEZING See See PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF FOOD. FRENCH CULINARY FRENCH CULINARY AND AND TABLE TABLE SLANG. SLANG, ARGoT ARGOT

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DE DE

cuIsINE CUISINE ET ET DE DE TABLE TABLE - Slang, wrote Gaston Esnault Esnault in his his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire historiEte historique des des argots argots frangais français (Larousse) is is 'a

collection collection of of non-technical non-technicaJ spoken words that appeal to to aa social group. The The group group - corporative, corporative, schoolboy, schoolboy, fashionfashionsocial group. able able society society -- is, is, he he specifies, specifies, a more more or or less less coherent one. one, adding, adding, 'Slang 'Slang varies varies from from profession profession to to profession'. profession'. ItIt isis therefore therefore only only right right and and fitting fiuing that that the the culinary culinary proprofession fession should should have have its ils own own brand brand of of slang. slang. The The table table is is la la carante. caran te. Then Then the the food, food, in in other other words words /a la fripe, fripe, la la crofite, croûle, k la briffe, briffe, h la cuistance, cuislance, Ia la bdquetance, béquelance, lala jaffe, jaffe, Ia la graine, graine, la la tortore, IOrtore, la la daronge, dnronge, Ie le frichti frichti arrives. arrives. Everyone Everyone has has tm un estome eSlOme (stomach), (stomach), and and one one has has to to eat eat in in other other words, words, claper, claper, croquer, croquer, tortorer, IOrlOrer, cacher, cacher, grainer, grainer, claboter, claboter, clapoter, clapoter, claquer, claquer, gousser, gousser, morfiler, morfiler, morfier, morfier, to to live. live. And And ifif la la jaffe jaffe isis good good then then on on se se morfale, morfale, on onfircote, fircote, on on se se bigale bégaie (one (one enjoys enjoys

(A LA) -- Garnish FRASCATI FRASCATI (À tA) Garnish for for meat meat dishes dishes with with consists consists of of thin thin slices sUces of/ole of foie gras, gras, asparagus asparagus tips, tips, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and (See GARNISHES.) truffies. trumes. (See GARNISHES.)

FRAUDULENT FRAUDù'LENT MISREPRESENTATION MlSREPRESENTATION OF OF F'OOD. FOOD,

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Deception Deception in in the the manufacture manufacture and and sale of food products. Fraud occurs when the type and sale of food products. Fraud occurs when the type and origin of the product food origin of the food product does does not not correspond correspond to to the the name name under which it is sold (for example, pdte de foie gras conunder which il is sold (for example, pâte de foie gras containing other than goose or duck liver) or when the quantity taining other than goose or duck liver) or when the quantity goods is not of of goods is not as as specified. specified. (See (See also also ADULTERATION) ADULTERATION.) Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has always been the duty of the authorities to try to uncover it always been the dut y of the authorities to try to uncover it and stamp and stamp itit out. out. When When the the corporations corporations were were in in command command and free trade did not exist, the legislator at that time had no and free trade did not exist, the legislator at that time had no scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to preventive measures. All secret work was forbidden and preventive measures. Ali secret work was forbidden and consequently all night work was forbidden. Itwas forbidden consequently ail night work was forbidden. Il was forbidden to keep to keep aa variety variety of ofproducts products in in the the same same shop. shop. Distinctive Distinctive trademarks and certain symbols were compulsory on manutrademarks and certain symbols were compulsory on manufactured products. factured products. Offenders Offendcrs were were severely severely punished. punished. FRAUDE ALMENTATRE FRAUDE ALIMENTAIRE -

oneself). oneself).

Bread Bread and and wine wine are are placed placed on on the the table table first. firs!. Bread, Bread, or or le le gringue, gringue, I'artifaille, /'artifaille, la la brique, brèque, le le brigetcn, brigetcn, le le brignollet. brignollet. Wine, Wine, or or le le sirop, sirop, lele pivois, pivois, lelejaja, jaja, lelepive, pive, le le tutu, lutu, lele busard, busard, le le picrate, picrate, lele pichtegom. pichtegom. IfIf itit isis aa robust robust red red wine wine itit is is /ele coaltair; coaltair; ififitit isis aa fine fine lightwine, light wine, itit isis lele coulange. coulange. Itlt can can be be rouquin rouquin (red) (red) or or beaujolpif beaujolpif and and will will be be inin aa bottle, boUle, that that isis to to say say Ia la betterave, betterave, la la boutanche, boutanche, lala rouille.If rouille. If itit isis inin litres. litres, itit isis Ielekil kil or or kilo kilo and and on on lelepictera pic/era (it (it will will be be quaffed quaffed with with aa right right good good will). will). IfIfititisisaa bottle botlleof ofchamp champ(Champagne) (Champagne)itit becomes becomes aa roteuEe.It rOleuse. lt isis drunk drunk nin un unguindal, guindai, tm un bennard bennardor or tm unglasse. glasse. The The appetite appetite begins begins with with I'apdro l'apéro (the (the alfa alfa of ofthe the good good old old days I'alfa being days has has gone go ne--l'alfa being the the absinth absinth (la (la verte\ ver le) of oflalaBelle Belle Epoque). Epoque). From From /a la bouillante bouillante (soup) (soup) we we move move on on to to lala 392 392

FRENCH FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY NAMES NAMES Cond6 certain preparations preparati.ons by by tu certain Condé (A (À ta) la) -- Name N ame given to Feuillet, Condé household household during during the the Feuillet. master mas ter chef chef of o!' the Conde

barbaque or or bidoche, bidoche, le le saciflard saciflard (saucisson), (saucisson), also also called called du du barbaque bits, then then came les les navarins navarins (turnips), (turnips), les les loubiats loubiats (haricot (haricot Dils, beans), then then le le calendo calendo (Camembert) (Camembert) which which is is rm un rAme l'ème beans), (cheese), (cheese), then then le le caowt caoua (coffee) (coffee) which, which, being being black, black, can can also also biffi. At At last last itit isis time bme for for la la consolante, consolante, aa bottle bottle of of be called called biffi. be wine drunk drunk before before leaving leaving (or (or after after the the coup coup de feu). (Slang (Slang wine

restaurant chefs chefs around around 1910. 1910. Taken used by by restaurant used Dictionnaire of of Gaston Gaston Esnault). Esnault). Dictionnaire

Restoration. Restora tion. Conti Conti (A (À h) la) - Name Na'11e given to to several several recipes recipes created created by by the of the the Prince Prince of Conti. Conti. the chefs chefs of But But itit was was the the Princess Princess of of Conti Conti who whc 'invented' 'invented' the the loin loin of of mutton mutton that that bears bears her her name, name, the the famous famous loin loin gourmande gourmandé mentioned de de persil (gourmandised (gourmandised with with parsley) parsley) that that is is mentioned in in le le Bourgeois Kn:lJrC,pnl~ gentilhomme. ,f?,em'lIfl'onlme. Cussy (A ta) - Louis Louis de de Cussy, Cussy, one one of of the the wittiest wittiest gourmets a""rlYlp!C of of the the early early nineteenth nineteenth century century was was prefect prefect of of the palace palace under under Napoleon Napoleon I. 1. and and the the chef chef dedicated dedicated some sorne recipes recipes to to him. him. Duroc la) - V6ry, Véry, who who owed owed much much in in his bis early days days to to Duroc (A ta) . . to the the protection protection of of Marshal Marshal Duroc Duroc and and .... to the love love of of few dedicate a Madame Madame V6ry, Véry, could could hardly hardJy do do less Jess than than dedicate a few recipes to :0 his his benefactor. benefactor. C6sar owe this ta) -- We Frangipane (A l
ken casserole, for drumsticks or breasts of chicken or or chic chicken

poultry. Chestnuls. Chestnuts. Braised or or stewed stewed for for braised braised or or pot-roasted chic ken, for braised or chicken, for braised or pot-roasted young turkey, turkey, for for potroasted roasted pigeon. pot-roasted, or Lettuce. Braised Lettuce. for braised, Braised for braised, pot-roasted, or poached chicken, braised or pot-roasted young young turkey, braised or chicken, braised or potroasted pigeon. Mushrooms. Mushrooms. Cooked in aa white stock for forpoached poultry, for breasts of poultry; poultry; cooked in aa brown for drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts stock braised, pot-roasted, pot-roasted, sautéed, saut6ed, or stock for for braised, or casseroled poultry, drumsticks poultry, pot-roasted drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry, pigeon, nOll-f()astoo pot-roasted guinea-fowl. guinea-fowl. pasta. For Noodles and and other other pasta. For braised braised or or pot-roasted ken, "'AT-rtV""",.. poultry, sautéed pot-roasted turkey. saut6ed or casseroled chic chicken, Pilaf With pot-roasted poultry, poultry, sautéed Pilaf. With pot-roasted saut6ed or or casôsel'olex! casseroled chicken, drumsticks poultry, pot-roasted chicken, drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry, turkey. Rice. Cooked in fat, poached poultry. Rrce. fat, for poached Risotto. For braised or pot-roasted poultry, poultry, chicken Risotto. For braised or pot-roasted sautéed or cooked in saut6ed in aa casserole, drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts of poultry. for braised braised poultry poultry or Turnips. Glazed Glazd for or braised braised or or potroasted Nantes duckling. duckling. Vegelab/es (various). Glazed Vegetables (various). gravy or in gravy Glazod carrots carrots in or àd la la Vichy; cauliflower sprinkled Vichy; cauliflower sprinkld with with cheese cheese and/or and/or breadcrumbs and browned; Sauerkraut braised fennel; crumbs and browned: Sauerkraut;.. braisd fennel; broad beans in in butter butter or glazd turnips; beans or cream; cream; glazed turnips; glazd onions; French beans beans in in butter butter or peas cooked in various French or cream; cream; peas ways; salsify salsify sautéed ways; in cream; saut6ed tomatoes; saut6ed or or in cream; sautéed these vegetables may Jerusalem artichokes Jerusalem artichokes in butter, etc. Ali All these be served served with braised, pot-roasted, or poached poultry. poultry, be with braised, or poached sautéed chicken chicken or saut6ed or chicken casserole, casserole, cutlets, cutlets, breasts, breasts, or fillets of chicken. Young corn on on the the cob. In butter butter or cream cream for braised, braised, potroasted, or or poached poached poultry, poultry, sautéed breasts, roasted, saut6ed chicken, chicken, cutlets, cutlets, breasts, of poultry, pot-roasted guinea-fowl. guinea-fowl. or fillets of por.rR OEUFS GARNISHES FOR FOR EGGS. EGGS. cARNrruRRs GARNITURES POUR GARNISHES oEUFs -Like all al! other basic foods, foods, eggs, eggs, especially soft-boiled soft-boilod or the ordinary way or be served poached in the or in moulds, may be served with aa great variety of garnishes. Detailed recipes recipes for for those those garnjsh(~ and instructions for setting them out on garnishes setting thern on the the dish dish

are to be be found among among the the recipes recipes for for egg egg dishes (see EGGS). dishes (see EGGS). porssoNs GARNISHES FOR FISH. FISH. cARNIrr.JREs GARNITURES por;R POUR POISSONS GARNISHES whole or in thick slices, sUces, is is garnished garnished according Braised fish, whole to the instructions instructions set set out for main main meat meat dishes. dishes. Poached fish fish (fish cooked cooked in in a a court-bouillon), Poached court-bouillon'), whole whole or is invariably garnished with boiled boiled or steamed sliced, is steamed potatoes and and fresh parsley. The The dressing is is aa sauce sauce of sorne toes some kind, served separately. separately. To To this trus standard garnish are are sometimes served sometimes

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added further further ingredients ingredients such such as as very fish, added very small small fried fried fish, minute croquettes, or or shells shells filled filled with with various various garnishes, garnishes, etc. minute etc. Small fish, or fillets fillets poached in a a little court-bouillon, Small court-bouillon, are are served with various various garnishes, garnishes, simple simple or composite. composite. Details Details served of these these garnishes garnishes are are given with with the the recrpe recipe for for the the fish fish in of in question. Small f,sh fish and and their their garnishes garnishes are are normally nonnally covered Small covered with with sauce prescribed for for them, them, unless unless they they are are frid fried dà la meunière sauce la meuniire or sprinkled sprinkled with with cheese cheese or or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned. browned. or Grilled fish, fish, whole whole or or sliced, sliced, is is garnished as as aa rule Grilled rule with with boiled potatoes, slices slices of of lemon lemon cut eut with with aa fluted f1uted knife, knife, and and boiled fresh parsley. Some Sorne types types of of grilled fish fish have have special special gargarfresh nishes. Details of of these these are are given given with with the the recipe recipe for for the the fish in nishes. fish in question. question. Fried fish fish is is invariably invariably garnished garnished with with fried fried parsley parsley and and Fried halved or or quartered quartered lemons. lemons. halved

409 409 gourmet spread: spread: duck duck dàI'orange, l'orange, turbot, turbot, lobster, lobster, AA gourmet and wines wines (Zasserre. (Lasserre. Phot. Phal. Nicolas) Nicolas) limbale Elysée. assorted assor1ed cheeses cheeses and timbaleElysbe,

GARNISHES cARMruREs COMPOSÉESCOMPOSITE GARNISHES. GARNISHES. GARNITURES coMposfgs (potatoes whose pulp is dark potatoes (potatoes A l'africainePafricaine- Black potatoes À colour -- see POT look like marbles, bluish in colour A TOES), cut to look POTATOES), marbles, butter; braised blanched blanched in in salt salt water, water, and and cooked cooked in in butter; braised courgettes courgettes (zucchini). flavourod with Serve with rice cooked in fat stock lightly flavoured saffron. (q.v.) of pickled pickled tongue, mushAgnès Agp&s Sorel Sord -- Salpicon Salpicon (q.v.) and truffles, truffies, with little mounds of white rvhite rice. rooms, and blended with Madeira Madeira and a Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended (see, SA Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). UCE). Uses. For large cuts of meat; poultry; eggs. Albigeoise Afbigeoise -- Potato Potato croquettes prepared as as for for Duchess potatoes (see POT ATOES) mixed with lean chopped ham; POTATOES) (duxelles) small tomatoes stuffed with chopped mushrooms (duxel/es) small have been which fried in been fried which have in butter with chopped onion onion and garlic, and parsley. and chopped parsley. mixed with breadcrumbs, garlic, (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with Sauce. tomato. tomato. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. garnished Albuféra shed with truffies truffles shaped Albuf6ra -- Small Small tartlets tartlets garni with aa bali-scoop ball-scoop (the size of aa pea) and and chicken forcemeat and kidneys; mushrooms, and balls balls of the same shape. Cocks' Cocks' kidneys; slices of of pickled tongue shaped like cocks' combs combs are placed on top of each tartlet. (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Albufera sauce (see poached chicken. Chickens thus garnished are Uses. For poached gras and stuffed foie gras stuffed with with rice rice mixed mixed with with aa salpicon salpicon of foie and truffies. truffles. Algérienne Ng6rienne 1I -- Sweet potato croquettes; small small tomatoes stewed in oil. tomato. Sauce. veal stock flavoured with tomato. Sauce. Clear veal Uses. For large or small cuts of meat; poultry. II-- Croquettes of rice and sweet peppers; peppers; thick Algérienne Alg6rienne fi slices of aubergines. aubergines. veal stock flavoured with tomato. Sauce. tomato. Sauce. Clear veal poached Strasbourg Braised sauerkraut; sauerkraut; poached Alsacienne -- Braised Alsacienne potatoes. sausages sa usages cut into rounds; boiled boiled potatoes. stockora thin Demi-glace sauce(see SAUCE). Sauce. Veal stock or a thin Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). goose and Uses. For large cuts of meat; poultry, especially especially goose duck. Ambassedrice -- Cocks' saut6ed combs; cocks' cocks' kidneys; kidneys; sautéed Ambassadrice Cocks' combs; saut6ed chicken livers; mushrooms; mushrooms; sautéed livers; shredded shredded truffies. Madeira and Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended blendod with Madeira thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat and poultry. Amdricaine -- Sm slices of of crayfish crayfish or or lobster lobster tails Américaine ail slices Small I'amdricaine. cooked àd l'américaine. (se SAUCE) Sauce à d l'américaine I'amiricaine (see SAUCE) to to which which is Sauce. Sauce. Sauce added used for the main added the concentrated stock of the fish used l'amiricaine.) dish. (See BRILL, Brill àd l'américaine.) Uses. For fish. lambb truffies ;; lam and truffles balls of ofchicken À orcemea t balls chicken and I -- F Forcemeat A l'ancienne I'ancienne 1 mushrooms; fresh olives; mushrooms; sweetbreads; sweetbreads; truffles truffies shaped like olives; crayfish crayfish cooked in a fish court-bouillon (q.v.). (se SAUCE) to sauce (see Sauce. has been Sauce. Suprême Supr€me sauce to which has (mirepoix), flavoured pulp (mirepoix), fine vegetable vegetable pulp flavoured with added added aa fine Madeira. Madeira. poached or For ca sweetbreads; poached or braised braised Uses. Ives' sweetbreads; Uses. For calves' vol-au-vent; hot pdtds; poultry; vol-au-vent; pâtés; savoury tarts. A l'ancienne l'ancienne fi II -- Little Little savoury nests made of À of fried Duchess (see POTATOES) filled potatoes filled with with aa mixture of diced potatoes (see calves' in butter, butter, and calves' kidneys kidneys sautéed saut6ed in and diced diced mushrooms, grary; stuffed th thickened veal bound with veal gravy; stuffed braised lettuce; bound wi potato balls in butter; beans in French beans small small potato browned in butter; French balls browned butter. butter. pot-roast juices. Sauce. Sauce. Braising liquor or pot-roast pot-roasted cuts Uses. large braised braised or Uses. For For large or pot-roasted cuts of of meat, of veal. saddle le of especially especially loin and sadd

Garnish il l'ancienne round a saddle ofveal

pastry boats garnished with Itr -- Small À A l'ancienne I'ancienne ru Small pastry with a boats garnished (see salpicon of of soft soft roes roes blended blended with wth Normande sauce (see salpicon Normande sauce SAUCE); truffles trufles trimmed to look like olives; mushrooms; mushrooms; freshwater crayfish cooked in aa court-bouillon. Sauce. Sauce. Reduced pan juices of the main dish blended with (se,e SA sauce (see Madeira-flavoured Velouté Velouti sauce aa Madeira-flavoured UCE) based on SAUCE) fine vegetable fish stock and to which which aa fine vegetable mirepoix mirepoix is fish and cream, to added. poached fish. Uses. For baked or poached À A l'anglaise fangtaise 1I -- Carrots Carrots cut in 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) lengths and leg of of lamb; lamb; mashed cooked with medium-sized onions onions cooked with leg and mashed. turnips also cooked with leg of lamb, drained and (s* SAUCE) with capers in vinegar sauce (see Sauce. Butler sauce Sauce. Butter added, served separately. sep,arately. added, poached leg of lamb. Uses. For poached A l'anglaise II -- Carrots and turnips cut in 5-cm. S-crn. (2-inch) À langtaise fi lengths, cooked with chicken; chicken; celery celery hearts also cooked cooked with lengths, chicken; chicken; French beans and and cauliflower, cauliflower, boiled. (see SA SAUCE) Sauce. Butler sauce UCE) with capers in vinegar Sauce. Butter sauce (see (See CHICKEN, added, added, served served separately. separately. (See CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken àd l'anglaise.) potatoes cut to look A l'Anversoise -- Hop shoots in cream; potatoes A I'Anversoise artichoke hearts like olives like in butter. Or olives deep~fried deep-fried in Or small small artichoke chicory stewed in butter butter and filled with hop shoots in cream; chicory (endive) àdlaflamande. laflamande. (endive) stock. veal stock. Sauce. Sauce. Juices from the roast or clear veal Uses. For large or sm ail cuts of meat; poultry. small (see POT POTATOES); A TOES); Armenonville -- Small Small Anna potatoes (see morels in cream; and and tartlets filled with a salpicon of cocks' and kidneys. combs and calves' sweetbreads. Uses. For small pieces of meat; calves' quenelles ; mushrooms; mushrooms ; shredded À A la h banquièrebanquilre - Chicken quenelles; trufles. truffies. (According to the nature of the main dish, the ingredients separately or mixed in a of this garnish are either prepared separately rago,frt.) ragoût.) SAUCE). Sauce. Banquière sauce (see SA UCE). Sauce, Banquiire poached or sweetbreads and Uses. Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads and poultry poached blanc: vol-au-vent. braised àd blanc; vol-au-vent. glazed carrots; saut6od in butter; glazeQ carrots; braised braised Béatrix B6atrix -- Morels sautéed quartered artichokes; artichokes; browned new potatoes. cooking pan. Sauce. Sauce. Diluted meat juices from the cooking Uses. For small cuts of meat. À ail artichoke A la Beauhamais -- Very sm small artichoke hearts filled with h Beauharnais (se SA puree has Béarnaise sauce (see UCE) to which tarragon purée Bdarnake SAUCE) been added; small potato balls browned in butter. main dish diluted with with Madeira Sauce. Sauce. Pan juices of the main . and veal stock, together with chopped truffles. truffies. and veal Uses. For small cuts of meat. 410

GARNISHES GARNISHES Dispose these these vegetables round the vegetables round the main main dish dish in in separate separate Dispose groups. groups. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the roast. the roast. Sauce. [/ses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. la bouquetière bouquetibre II II -- Very Very small small artichoke artichoke hearts hearts simmered simmered ÀA la in butter, butter, filled filled alteroately alternately with with carrots carrots and and tumips; turnips; buttered in buttered French beans; beans; small small bunches bunches of of asparagus asparagus tips, tips, held held upright French upright by aa ring ring of of carrots; carrots; cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into into florets florets and by and covered with (see SAUCE); with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce sauce (see potatoes cut SAUCE); potatoes cut covered to look look like like olives olives and and sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter. to Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Sauce. Uses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. (sometimes caUed la bourgeoise bourgeoise (sometimes called àt la la mode) mode) -- Glazed Glazed ÀA la carrots cut cut in in ovals, ovals, and and onions, onions, both both cooked cooked with with the the meaL meat. carrots Sometimes braised braised fresh fresh vegetables vegetables su such as celery, celery, lettuce, lettuce, ch as Sometimes etc., are are added. added. etc., Sauce. Braising Braising liquor liquor of of the the main main dish. dish. Sauce. Uses. For For large large braised braised cuts of meat, cuts of meat, notably notably beef beef rump rump Uses. braised àd la (see BEEF), but la bourgeoise bourgeor'se (see garnish may this garnish but this may be braised be used with with braised (noix de braised ox ox tongue, tongue, veal veal (noix fu veau), veau), or used or leg leg of of lamb or or mutton. mutton. lamb A lata bourguignonne bourguignonne 1I -- Small glazd onions; Small glazed onions; whole whole or À or quartered mushrooms sautéed saut6ed in in butter; butter; diced, diced, blanched, quartered blanched, (pickled) pork. and browned salt salt (pickled) pork. and (see SAUCE). Sauce. Bourguignonne Bourguignonne sauce seuce (see SAUCE). This garnish, This garoish, Sauce. generally served served with with braised braised meat, meat, should should be be added generally added to to the dish aa short time before it is is completely completely cooked. main dish Uses. For large large cuts of of meat, meat, especially beef. Uses. A la bourguignonne bourguignonne II tr -- The The same as garnish, as the previous garnish, À without the pork. the pork. but without Sauce. Red wine sauce sauce made with vegetable or fish Sauce. fish stock little fresh fresh butter added. with aa \ittle Uses. For braised braised fish. Uses. A la la brabançonne brabangonne 1I -- Braised Braised chic chicory; À ory ; Potato fondantes (see POTATOES). (see Sauce. Reduced veal veal stock. Sauce. Uses. Large cuts cuts of meat. A la la brabançonne brabangonne II II -- Little À Little tartlets tartlets garnished garnished with Brussels covered with Mornay Brussels sprouts simmered in butter, covered Mornay sauce (se SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sauce (see SAUCE), browned croquettes. browned;; potato potato croquettes. Sauce. Sauce. Reduced Reduced veal stock. Uses. For large pieces of meat. meat. Brancas - Anna potatoes cooked in potatoes (see (see POTATOES) cooked individual moulds and turned out; olt; Chffinade Chiffonade of of lettuce lelluce with with crearn cream (see (see LETTUCE) LETTUCE) quite dry. dry. Sauce. Thickened veal stock stock or a Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat; meat; white white meat meat especially especially popltry. poultry. A À la la bretonne bretonne I1 - Dry white white beans beans or small kidney kidney beans, beans, cooked cooked in in meat meat stock stock and blended blended with Bretonne Bretonne sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Roast pan pan juices juices or veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato. tomato. Uses. Uses. For For large large cuts cuts of of meat meat (especially (especially leg leg of of lamb) lamb) potpotroasted roasted or or roasted. roasted. A Àh la bretonne bretonne II II - Breton Breton white white bean bean pur6e purée (see (see PUREE). PÙRÉE). Sauce. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Uses. Uses. For For large large cuts cuts of of meat. meat. A À la la bretonne bretonne III ID -- Leeks, Leeks, onions, onions, celery celery and and mushrooms, mushrooms, cut cut in in thin thin strips strips and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter butter until until they they are are very added to to the the main main fish fish dish dish before before itit isis fully fully very tender, tender, and and added cooked. cooked. Sauce. Made with with a a Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (sre (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and Sauce. Made cream. cream. Uses. For baked baked or or poached poached fish. fish. Uses. For Brillat-Savarin ofDuchess Du ch esspotatoes potatoes (see (see Brillat-Savarin-- Little Little nests nests made made of

Garnish Béa (Debillot. PMI. Blatrix Phot. Larousse) Larousse) Garnish triK (Debi/wl.

Beauvillien -- Small Small spinach spinach kromeskies (prepared by kromeskies (prepared by Beauvilliers pancakes with filling pancakes spinach, rolling with spinach, rolling them them up, up, cutting cutting them them filling in rounds, rounds, dipping dipping them them in in batter batter and and frying frying them them in in deep deep in fat); small small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed with with cooked pur6e, cooked brain brain purée, fat); browned with with breadcrumbs; breadcrumbs; salsify salsify cut cut into into rounds, rounds, sautéed saut6ed browned in butter. butter. in Sauce. Braising Braising stock. stock. Sauce. Uses. For For large large cuts cuts of of braised braised meat. meat. Uses. A la la bénédictine b6n6dictine -- Very Very small small tartlets pastry boats tartlets or or pastry À garnished with with Brandade Brandade of of salt cod(see COD, Salt Salt cod) cod)with garnished salt cod (see COD, with chopped truffies trufres added. added. chopped (see SAUCE) Sauce. White White wine sauce (see wine sauce SAUCE) if if accompanying accompanying Sauce. fish; Cream Cream sauce sauce for for eggs. eggs. fish; Uses. For For fish poachod eggs. fish or or coddled coddled or or poached eggs. Uses. A la nerricnonne -- Braised U Berrichonne cibbag"; sm smill onions; chestÀ Braised cabbage; ail onions; nuts; rashers oflean oflean bacon. nuts; rasheŒ bacon. Uses. For For meat, in big cuts. t meat, principally principally mutton, mutton, served served in big cuts. Uses. A la Biarrotte Grilled cipes and of Da cakes chess À la Biarrotte -- Grilled cèpes and cakes of Duchess potato potato (see POTATOES) as a (see POTATOES) used used as a foundation foundation for for mear. meat. Uses. For For meat Uses. meat served served in in small small portions. portions. Bonne-femme small ovals. small Potatoes trimmed trimmed into into small ovals, small Bonne-femme I1 - Potatoes onions, bacon and and mushrooms, mushrooms, cooked cooked with with onions, lean lean larding larding bacon chicken. chicken. Uses. For poultry. Uses. For poultry. Bonnefemme Bonne-femme tr II -- Thinly Thinly sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked with with fish. fish. Uses. For fish. fish. Uses. For A À h la bordelaise bordelaise I1 -- Cipes Cèpes d à la la bordelar'se bordelaise (see (see MUSHMUSHROOMS); ROOMS); potatoes potatoes cut cut to to look look like like olives olives and and cooked cooked slowlv slowly in in clarified c1arified butter. butter. Sauce. of the the roast. roast. Sauce. Juices Juices of Uses. Uses. For For large large joints. joints. A - Small À Ia la bordelaise bordelaise tr 11Small quartered quartered artichokes artichokes stewed stewed in in butter; butter; raw, raw, thinly thinly sliced sliced potatoes potatoes saut6ed sautéed in in butter; butter; fried fried onion onion rings; rings; fried fried parsley. parsley. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of main main dish dish diluted diluted with with white white wine wine and and veal or chicken chicken stock. stock. veal or Uses. For jointed jointed poultry. poultry. Uses. For A À la la boulang0re boulangère -- Thinly Thinly sliced sliced or or quartered quartered potatoes potatoes and and thinly cooked with with the the main main dish. dish. thinly sliced sliced onions, onions, cooked Sauce. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Uses. For shoulder, shoulder, leg, leg, and and other other cuts cuts of of mutton mutton and and Uses. For lamb; lamb; occasionally occasionally for for poultry. poultry. AÀ la la bouqueti&re bouquetière I1-- Glazed Glazed carrots carrots and and turnips turnips trimmed trimmed into or shaped shaped with with aa ball-scoop; bali-scoop; peas peas and and into very very small small ovals ovals or diced diced French French beans, beans, boiled boiled separately separately and and blended blended with with butter; butter; cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into into florets florets and and boiled, boiled, covered covered with SAUCE) or or melted melted butter; butter; new new with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) potatoes in butter. butter. potatoes browned browned in 411 411

GARNISHES GARNISHES POTATOES) frid fried and and hollowed hollowed to to hold hold a a salpicon of POTATOES) concentrated Demiglace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Asparagus Asparagus tipe tips can be arranged arranged on top. top. Sauce. TIin Thin demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce for large cuts. Stock of the Satrce. flavoured with white Malaga wine, a a third veal main dish flavoured SAUCE), stock and Velouté sauce (se (see SAUCE), and two-thirds chicken chicken Velouti cuts. for small cuts. U-ses. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. meat. in butter; la bruxelloise -- Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts in butter; Potato Ah cut to (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) or or potatoes cut to look look like fondantes (see fondantes cooked slowly in clarified c1arified butter. butter. olives and cookod (see saace (see Sauce. Clear veal veal stock stock or or thin thn Demi-glace sauce Sauce. SAUCE). meat. and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and purée (see (see Camdrani - Small tartlets filled with Foie gras purie shredded trufles; truffles; slices of of pickled tongue shaped PUREE); shredded MACAROND. Macaroni dà l'italienne as cocks'combs; cocks' combs; Macaroni I'italienne (see MACARONI). as Suprême sauce (see SAUCE) to which the reduced Sauce. SuprAme been added. added. pan juices have bee,n Ives' sweetbreads. calves' Uses. Poultry and poached ca À h la cancalaise and shrimps' oysters and A cancelaise -- Lenten garnish of oysters (se SAUCE). Normande sauce (see tails in Normande À la little coquilles garnish of little coquilles cardinal; Fish garnish A h cardinal - Fish mushrooms; slices of truffie. truffle. mushrooms; carrot timbales. timbales. PETITS ttered Little carrot Buttered PETITS PAINS PATNS DE CAROTTES cARorrns-- Bu Litfle custard as dariole moulds filled with carrots prepared as custard cups or dariole for Carrot timbale moderate oven timbale (see CARROT). Cook in a mCloel:ate in a pan of hot water or bain-marie. Castiglione -- Large mushrooms filled with risotto mixed filled with with and ham, sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and lean ham, choppod lean with chopped (to be browned; rounds of aubergine sautéed be used saut6ed in in butter (to browned; as bone-marrow. as canapis); strips of poached bone-marrow. Sauce. white wine the main main dish flavoured with white Sauce. Stock of the to which chopped have been veal stock stock have been added. and veal chopped shallots and Butter should should be be added to this sauce after it has been reduced. Uses. small cuts cuts of meat. Uses. For For small À in oil; oil; sauteed in coarsely diced, diced, sautéed A la catalane -- Aubergine, coarsely h catalane Rice pilaf (see PILAF). pi@(see Sauce. (see SAUCE) flavoured with with sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured A Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce Sauce. A tomato. Uses. cuts of meat. Uses. For large cuts Cavour (q.v.) made with polenta (q.v.) with of polenta baked rounds of Cavorr -- Small baked cheese grilled mushrooms filled mushrooms filled large grilled as canapés); canapis); large be used used as cheese (to be with purée shredded truffles. trufles. pur6e of chicken Iiver; liver; shredded Sauce. Marsala or or tomato. flavoured with with Marsala Veal stock stock flavoured Sauce. Veal Uses. escalopes saut6od escalopes cuts of of meat, meat, especially sautéed small cuts Uses. For small (U.S. cutlets) sweetbreads. veal and and breadod calves' sweetbreads. cutlets) of of veal A la garnished with with cocks' cocks' Small tartlets tartlets garnished h chalmmaise cnabnnaise -- Small (see kidneys sauce (see Veloutd sauce concentrated Velouté kidneys blended with concentrated blended with SAUCE); cocks' combs combs àd la la Villeroi; Villeroi; slices slices of of truffles; trufles; SAUCE); cocks' mushrooms. Sauce. (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Suprême Supr€me sauce Uses. poultry; calves' poached or calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads poached or Uses. For For poultry; braised white stock. stock. braised in in aa white Cbambord quenelles; mushrooms; Large and small fish fish quenelles; Chambord -- Large and small mushrooms ; fillets u téed in tter; truffles fillets of sole; soft soft roes roes sa saut6ed in bu butter; trufles cut cut to to look look of sole; like freshwater crayfish crayfish cooked cooked in in aa court-bouillon; court-bouillon; like olives; olives; freshwater small small fried fried croûtons. cro0tons. Sauce. sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Red Red wine wine sauce Uses. Uses. For For large large braised fish. À - Very A la h cbanoinesse chanoinesseVery small small carrots carrots in in cream cream mixed mixed with with coarsely Arranged as for tartlets. coarsely chopped chopped truffles. trufres. Arranged as aa filling filling for tartlets. Sauce. juices diluted Pan juices diluted with with sherry sherry and and veal veal stock. stock. Sauce. Pan Uses. (see sweetbreads; Suprême Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads; Supr€me of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); CHICKEN); coddled coddled or or poached eggs. eggs. À A lah châtelaine hearts filled filled with with chestnut chestnut chltelaine -- Artichoke hearts purée pur6e mixed mixed with with rice, rice, sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and

in butter. browned; browned; braisod braised lettuce; potato potato balls browned in juices of pan juices of the diluted pan Sauce. Thickened veal veal stock or diluted main dish. Uses. For large cuts of meat. pLUcHEs DE CERFEUIL of stalk All traces of cERFEUIL -- AIl Chervil leaves. leaves. PLUCHES Most and fibre should be removed removed from the leaves of chervil. Most pur6ed vegetables should should have of whole or puréed soups with a base ofwhole quart, litre (scant quart, to every every litre chervil added added - 1 teaspoon to chervil generous quart) soup. soup. Because of the very delicate aromatic the soup at herb, the leaves must be be addd to the flavour of this herb, the soup is is off the the boil. when the the last moment, when For soup. Uses. For leaves and and sorrel shredded lettuce leaves Chifionnade - Finely shredded Chiffonnade used in in many is used This chiffonnade chffinnade is in butter. butter. This slowly in stewed slowly stewed different soups. different green cabbage stuffed with with A la h cbinonaise chinonaise -- Small rolls of green À potatoes sprinkled chopped sprinkled with chopped sausage meat and braised; potatoes parsley. (se SAUCE). Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. meat. of meat. large cuts of Uses. For large Uses. glazed onions; onions; small glazed chestnuts; small Braised chestnuts; Chipolata - Braised sausages ; mushrooms. chipolata lta sausages; Chlpclla (se SAUCE) or the the braising braising SAUCE) or sauce (see Sauce. Demi-glace sauce stock of the main dish. and diced, blanched, blanched, and coarsely diced, bacon, coarsely lean bacon, Sometimes Sometimes lean also served. served. is also carrots, is braised carrots, in butter butter with braised browned in of meat meat or or poultry. cuts of Uses. Uses. For large cuts hearts artichoke hearts butter; artichoke Cboron Choron-- Potato balls browned in butter; in butter. butter. simmered in (or asparagus tips) and and simmered asparagus tips) filled filled with peas (or (se SAUCE) with flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Biarnaise sauce dish. round the the main main dish. in aa ring round arranged in tomato, tomato, arranged grilled. or grilled. meat, fried fried or small cuts cuts of meat, Uses. For small Uses. For pnonrERoLEs - Using (see paste (see Chou paste paste balls. Using Chou Chou balls. PROFITEROLES Chcr paste out squeeze out round nozzle, nozzle, squeeze with aa round in aa forcing-bag forcing-bag with DOUGH) DOUGII) in in aa of a nut. nut. Bake Bake in size ofa each the the size sheet little little balls each onto onto aa baking sheet for 20 20 to to 25 25 minutes. minutes. me)derat:ely hot oyen oven for moderately hot puree or other In,!!:reclle!lt ingredient or whatever whatever other Stuff with aa purée Stuff the balls with soup in which which for the the soup to the the recipe recipe for isis appropria te, according according to appropriate, up. heat them and heat them up. served, and they are are to to be be served, For soup. Uses. For peas in in filled with with peas Artichoke hearts hearts filled À A la Clamart Clamart I Artichoke potato balls in butter. butter. butter; potato balls browned browned in (see sauce (see Demi'glace sauce wr/.h Demi-glace Sauce. stock blended blended with Veal stock Sauce. Veal SAUCE). sAUCE). meat. Uses. small cuts cuts of of meat. For large or or smaU Uses. For garnish 1/ /1(below). A lah Clamart St Germain Germain garnish See St Chmart tr -- See green cabbage stuffod and Rolls of of green À A la Clermont Clermont - Rolls (pickled) pork cooked with braised; of salt salt (pickled) slices of rectangular slices braised; rectangular potatoes. the the cabbage; potatoes. (se, SAUCE) or the the braising braising Sauce. sauce (see SAUCE) or Sauce. Demi-glace sauce liquor. liquor. Uses. meat. large cuts cuts of of meat. For large Uses. For garnish. ROGNONS DE COQ coQ - Wash Wash inin Cocks' RocNoNs DE as gamish. Cocks' kidneys kidneys as kidneys. Put Put (a oz.) g. (4 cocks' kidneys. several firm, white white cocks' 100 g. oz.) finn, waters 100 several waters scant them tablespoons, scant with 1I dl. dl. (6(6 tablespoons, small saucepan with them into into aa small pinch of salt, o2.,2 tablespoons) t* cup) water, 2 tablespoons) salt, 25 25 g. (1Qoz., water, aa pinch "up)and butter of lemon lemon juice. and aa few few drops drops of butter good heat. soon as the liquid liquid Start heat. As As soon as the over aa good Start cooking cooking over begins cookitg, very low and continue continue cooking, heat very low and turn the the heat to boil boil turn begins to covered, avoid boiling. boiling. care to to avoid taking care 12 minutes, minutes, taking l0 to to 12 covered, for for 10 Use recipe. to the the recipe. according to Use according (rolled into ÀA la - Small into puree of lentils (rolled of lentils Small croquettes of of purée h Conti Contiballs); potato€s cut fried inin butter. butter. olives, fried like olives, cut to to look like balls); potatoes Sauce. Demi-glace and Demi-glace with Madeira Madeira and diluted with Pan juices diluted Sauce. Pan (see SAUCE). sauce sauce(s* Uses. of meat. meat. For small small cuts cuts of Uses. For (4oz., 1 cup) o2.,1 100g.g.(4 dish 100 Place in inan anearthenware earthenware dish Cr0pes - Place Add 22whole wholeeggs, eggs, mix teaspoon table tablesalt. salt. Add sieved flour and and1I teaspoon

gras and truffies truffles blended blended into a a foie gras

- I

-

F' _ _ " __ ._! _

-

-

h

-

h

-

-

412 412

GARNISHES GARNISHES

A À ta la duchesse duchesse - Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) in different shapes according according to the nature of of the main dish. dish. Sauce. Thickened veal stock or roast pan pan juices. juices. Uses. For large or small cuts of of meat. meat. Duroc Duroc - New potatoes (very small), browned in butter. butter. Sauce. Chasseur sauce (s* (see SAUCE) cooked in the the pan pan used for the main dish. disb. Uses. For small cuts of of meat and poultry, saut6ed. sautéed. Duxelles DuxeUes - Chopped mushrooms browned in butter and oil mixed with chopped cbopped onions and shallots, moistened moistened with white white wine, with chopped parsley added. Uses. For small cuts of meat. Favart Favart - Chicken Chicken quenelles quenelles seasoned with with chopped tarragon, tartlets of rich pastry filled with a salpicon salpicon of mushmushrooms (cdpes) (cèpes) in cream. cream. (se SAUCE) of Velouti sauce (see of chicken with Sauce. Sauce. Thick Velouté butters). Compound butters). Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound sweetbreads. Uses. For poultry; veal; sweetbreads. quarters of A artichokes) Small artichokes (or quarters Àh la favorite favorite -- Small of articbokes) braised; lettuces lettuces stuffed and braised; mushrooms cooked in small Anna with mixed diced vegetables; vegetables; small butter and and filled filled with mixed diced potatoes POTATOES) A TOES) baked in individual moulds mou Ids and potatoes (see POT turned out. (see veal stock, stock, Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. Thickened Thickened veal Sauce. Demi-glace sauce juices of the main dish. SAUCE) or the diluted pan juices and small cuts of meal. meat. Uses. For large and (q.v.) A Ia fermilre -- Artichoke hearts filled with aafondue A la fermière fondue (q. v.) lettuces. vegetables; braised lettuces. of mixed vegetables; (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Demi-glace Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see Uses. For large cuts of meat. quenelles; cocks' combs combs A la U financière nnancilre -- Chicken or veal veal quenelles; A and Stoned and truffies. Stoned kidneys; mushrooms; mushrooms; shredded and kidneys; shredded truffies. and are sometimes sometimes freshwater crayfish crayfish are olives, and and freshwater blanched blanched olives, added. (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Financiire sauce (see Sauce. Financière Sauce. meat; calves' calves' sweetsmall cuts cuts of of meat; Uses. For For large large and and small Uses. poultry; vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, etc. etc. breads; poultry;

well, and and dilute dilute the the mixture mixture with with 2f 2i dl. (scant (scant Ii pint, pint, generous generous well, boiled milk. milk. cup) boiled Make pancakes pancakes and use them as appropriate. appropria te. Clear soup soup Make in the the preparation of this may be be used used instead instead of milk in may garnish. garnish. For soup. soup. Uses. For CROÛTES Croûtes ganrished gamished and and browned à l'ancienne. cno0rrs Cro0tes GARNIES rr ET cneuN6ps GRATINÉES A À t'lNctsNNEL'ANCIENNE - Cut Cut a long long French loaf cARNIES into slices slices 3 to 4 cm. cm. (li inches) incbes) thick. thick. Scoop out three three into quarters of the bread to make nests. Brush with butter or fat from a pot-au-feu. pot-au-feu. Toast Toast lightly in the oven. oyen. Chop or fat sieve the vegetables from the pot-au-feu, pot-au-feu, add grated cheese, cheese, mixture. and garnish garnisb the the bread with little !ittle mounds of this mixture. and these cro0tes croûtes on on a a baking sheet sheet and and sprinkle with Place these few drops drops of the the fat, fat, and grated cheese. cheese. Moisten with a a few grated 'brown. ·brown. soup. Uses. For clear soup. of sandwich sandwich loaf loaf into into cubes approxiCroûtons - Dice slices slices of cubes approxiCroiitons(i inch) across. Fry them in clarified clarified butter butter just mately i* cm. (* before serving. serving. Uses. For soups. Allow 50 g. (2 oz.) fried fried bread for every Uses. generous quart) soup. litre (scant quart, generous pur6e, A hla CussyCussy- Artichoke hearts hearts filled with musbroom mushroom purée, A kidneys; sprinkled cocks'kidneys; sprinkled with breadcrumbs and and browned; cocks' shredded truffies. shredded Sauce. fiavoured with Madeira Madeira or port. Sauce. Sauce flavoured Uses. For sm aIl cuts of meat; small mebt; poultry, whole or jointed. À tai! ragoût Nantua (see la Nantua ragofit àd la A la h Daumont - Crayfish Crayfish tail CRA YFISH) (in scallop shells or pastry pastry boats); boats); large fish fish CRAYFISH) QUENELLES), decorated with truffies; quenelles (see QUENELLES), quenelles (see decorated with truffies; truffles cut fillets of sole in fancy fancy shapes; cut in fillets sole decorated with with truffies slices of truffie; mushrooms cooked in tn court-bouillon. (se,e SAUCE) witb Sauce. Normande Normande sauce (see with Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Uses Uses.. For large baked fish. (see POT À Dauphine potatoes potatoes (see ATOES). POTATOES). Dauphlre -- Dauphine A la h Dauphine Sauce. veal stock. Sauce. Roast pan juices or clear veal Uses. meat. small cuts of meaL Uses. For large or small is covered prepared à À demi-denil is d la demi-deuil A la ta demi-deuildeni-deuil - Food prepared (se SAUCE) garnished with shed with with SAUCE) and and garni with aa Suprême sauce (see Supr€me sauce truffies. Uses. poached poultry and veal veal braised braised àd blanc. Uses. For poached (shelled) in À wine; tails tails of of Mussels (sbelled) in white wine; A la U dieppoise aieppoise - Mussels freshwater crayfish, grey grey or pink (shelled); mushrooms. (se SAUCE). Sauce. White wine sauCe saucq (see SAUCE). Sauce. White poached in Uses. in white wine. Uses. For fish fish poached Dubarry masked with with into balls, balls, masked shaped into Dubarry - Caulifiower Cauliflower shaped grated cheese Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) and cheese and SAUCE) sprinkled with grated browned. Uses. small cuts of meat. Uses. Large or small

i

(lj

-

-

-

fillet of of beef beef la flamande flamande round round aa fillel Garnish àd la Gamish

stuffed, rolled rolled up, up, and and A lah flamande flamande -- Green Green cabbage cabbage stuffed, À large oval oval shapes shapes trimmed into into large braised; carrots carrots and and turnips turnips trimmed braised; glazed; potatoes. potatoes. Diced pork fat fat and sausage Diced pork and slices slices of of sausage and glazed; and cooked with with tbe the cabbage cabbage a,re a-re sometimes sometimes added added.. cooked (se SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see veal stock, stock, or or the the SAUCE), veal Sauce. Demi-glace Sauce. juices of pan juices diluted pan of the the main main dish. dish. diluted For large large and small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. For and small Uses. potato balls sautEed in in butter; balls forestilre -- Morels Morels sautéed butter; potato A lah forestière (pickled) pork, pork, diced, salt (pickled) diced, browned in in butter. Sometimes salt browned butter. Sometimes fried in in butter added. blancbed, butter isis added. blanched, and and fried

Garnish (Debillot. Phol. Iarousse) Garnish Dubarry Dubarry (Debillol. Phot. Larousse)

413 413

GARNISHES GARNISHES Gorenffot shredded red GorenOot -- Braised Braised coarsely coarsely shredded red cabbage; cabbage;

(see SAUCE), Sauce. SAUCE), reduced Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see reduced veal stock, or the diluted dilutod pan juices of the main dish. Uses.Large Uses. Large and and small pieces of meat; poultry. A from Duchess À h la frangaise française -- Small Sm ail nests made from Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) hollowed hollowed out, dipped in egg and and breadcrumbs, vegetables; crumbs, fried, fried, and and filled filled with with diced diced mixed mixed vegetables; bunches ofcaulibunches of asparagus tips; braised lettuces; florets of cau liflower coated with Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Thin Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) or clear veal gravy. large cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large

rounds of Saveloy Saveloy sausage sausage cooked cooked with with the rounds of the cabbage; cabbage;

Potatoes Ia ménagère mdnagire (see Potatoes àd la (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). Sauce. Braising stock. Sauce. Braising meat. Uses. For large braised cuts of meat. Gouffé Little nests nests of Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) Gouff6-- Little of Duchess

cream: fried and and hollowed hollowed out out to to hold hold morels morels cooked in in cream; fried asparagus asparagus tips in butter. Madeira and Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended with Madeira

thickened veal stock. and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and meat. of potatoes la dauphinoise. Gratin dauphinois. dauphinois. Gratin Gratin of potatoes ài la dauphinoise. Gratin r.e n.c,upHrNorsE GRA TIN DE poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE À LA DAUPHINOISE - Slice thinly cRATTN TERRE A kg. (2i lb.) potatoes. Season pepper and put I1 ke.(41b.) Season with salt and pepper them in an ovenproof ovenproof dish previously previously rubbed with with garlic and butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle grated cheese on the potatoes, spread out in butter. the dish in even layers. layers. (1 pint, of 2 eggs eggs and 6 dl. (I cups) over this this a mixturc mixture of pint, 2f 21 cups) Pour over grated nutmeg. little salt, salt, and boiled milk, milk, a a !ittle and aa dash boiled dash of of grated Sprinkle with grated cheese and butter. Sprinkle and dot the top with butter. Bring to the boil on the stove and complete the cooking cooking in Bring oyen for about 40 minutes. Serve in the baking dish. the oven omitted if desired, desired, The garlic gar!ic and grated nutmeg may be be omitted though, strictly speaking, they form an an essential seasoning thoug[ seasoning of this dish. GRATIN DE DE poMMEs POMMES DE Gratin of potatoes ià la savoyarde. cnrrrN TERRE À r,c. LA s,avovARDE SA VOY ARDE - Prepared as as for Gratin dauphinois, fiRRE A dauphinois, substituting substituting clear c1ear stock for the milk. Helder -- Potato Potato balls browned in butter: butter; Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE), traced in a circle circ1e on the meat; meat; thick Tomato fondue (see FONDUE) FONDUE) placed placed in the the middle middle of the bearnaise béarnaise fondue sauce. sauce. Meat juices of of the main dish blended blended with reduced reduced Sauce. Meat veal stock. Uses. For small saut6ed sautéed cuts of meat. meat. Artichoke hearts filled with Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce Henry IV -- Artichoke (see (see SAUCE) with concentrated veal veal stock added; potato shredded truffies. balls browned in butter; shreddod Madeira and Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended with Madeira thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat. meat. À h la hongroise hongroise I1 -- Large florets of of cauliflower cauliflower coated with A Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, Mornay breadcrumbs and browned browned under under the grill; grill; sprinkled with breadcrumbs ppatata ot at o fondante POT ATOES). fondantess (see (see POTATOES). Thin Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Thn of meat. meat. Uses. For large and small cuts of À la la hongroise hongroise II II -- Nests Nests of of Duchess Duchess potato patata (see A POTATOES) POT ATOES) garnished garni shed with florets florets of cauliflower cau!iflower coated coated with Mornay Mornay sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), to which which is added chopped seasoned with paprika. paprika. onion simmered in butter and seasoned juices of the main dish dish blended with cream, cream, Sauce. Pan juices seasoned with paprika and and thickened with a little little Velouti Velouté Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce or Bichamel sauce smaIJ cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. For small Àh la hongroise hongroise Itr ID -- Rice Rice pilaf; pilaf; diced diced tomatoes tomatoes simmered simmered in A butter. Sauce. Hongroise Hongroise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. sautéed. Uses. For poultry, poached or saut6ed. garnish -- See JAPONAISE JAPONAISE (A (À LA). Japanese garni$ À la jardinilre jardinière -- Glazed carrots carrots and turnips in small oval A with a ball-scoop); bali-scoop); peas; French beans; beans; shapes (or rounded with shapes smaJl kidney kidney beans beans in butter butter -- all ail disposed disposed round round the the dish in small separate groups. separate Florets of of cauliflower, cauliflower, coated with Hollandaise sauce (see Florets sometimes added. added. SAUCE) or melted butter are sometimes c1ear veal stock. Sauce. Pan juices or clear cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large and small cuts

beef A Frascati Frascati gamish garnish round round a fillet fille! of ofbeef A

Frascati Frascati -- Large baked baked mushrooms, some sorne filled with a salpicon of truffies, truffies, others others with buttered buttered greur green asparagus asparagus tips; small slices of/ore of foie gras saut6ed sautéed in butter. Sauce. Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with port. Uses. For large large cuts of meat. meat. A À la gauloise gauloise I1 -- Tartlets Tartlets filled with cocks' kidneys; kidneys; cocks' combs combs fried rià la la Villeroi; mushrooms; mushrooms; trufles. truffies. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of the main main dish dish diluted diluted with with white white wine. Uses. For small cuts cuts of of meat; jointed poultry. poultry. A Ah la gauloise gauloise tr II -- Pastry boats filld filled with a salpicon salpicon of truffies and mushrooms ci à la crime; crème; potato patata croquettes; croquettes; freshfreshwater water crayfish cooked in a court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Sauce. Matelote Matelote sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Uses. For large large baked or poached poached fish. Glazed Gh~zed carrots for garnish gamish -- See CARROTS. CARROTS. Glazed Glazed ltalian Italian marrow (zucchini) gamish gamish -- See ITALIAN IT ALlAN MARROW. Glazed onions onions for garnish. orcNoNs OIGNONS cLAcES GLACÉS - Skin small, uniform-sized unifonn-sized onions. Fry them very lightly lighily in butter in a shallow season. shaIJow pan. Sprinkle Sprinkle with a little !ittle sugar sugar and season. Moisten Moisten with stock (or (or water, water, ifif the garnish is is required for a Lente,n Lenten dish) so that the liquid liquid does not quite quite cover coyer them. them. Simmer gently gently with the lid on the pan pan until the liquid !iquid has completely completely disappeared. disappeared. If, after this reduction of liquid, liquid, the onions are not yet yet cooked, add a few tablespoons of hot stock, finish cooking cooking and glaze, without without stirring them. them. God$dGodard - Large Large decorated quenelles; quenelles; small small poultry poultry orveal or veal quenelles with with truffies; truffies; sheeps' sheeps' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, braised braised and glazed; cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys; small truffies, whole or cut to look look like olives; mushroom mushroom caps. garnish is is for for a a substantial substantial second second course, course, When this garnish sweetbreads stuffed with bacon and braised may be be calves' sweetbreads substituted for the sheep's sweetbreads. sweetbreads. (For (For fuller informainformasubstituted CHICKEN, Chickm Chicken dà la Godard.\ Godard.) tion, see CHICKEN, Sauce. Godard Godard sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). For large large cuts of of meat; meat; poultry. poultry. Uses. For

414

GARNISHES A la h maraîcbère naralch0re -- Carrots trimmed into large Carrots trimmed large ovallengths oval lengths A glazed; small glazed on and glazed; small glazed onions; slices of thick slices of stuffed stuffed and and and ions ; thick quartered artichokes braised cucumber; cucumber; quartered artichokes which which have have been braised simmered in in butter in in aa covered covered pan. simmered Sauce. Strained Strained braising liquor, liquor, with aU all fat fat removed. removed. Sauce. Uses. For large large braised cuts of meat. braised cuts meat. Uses. la marécbale marechale -- Asparagus tips tips in in butter; sliced truffles. trufres. A la la maréchale marichale are are dipped dipped in in aa mixture Ingredients prepared àd la of two two thirds thirds breadcrumbs and and one one third third finely finely chopped chopped of truffies. (see BUTTER, Mattre d'hôtel Sauce. Maitre d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound Sauce. (see SAUCE). butters) or or Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce (see SAUCE). butters) (see CHICKEN); Uses. For Suprême SuprAme of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); escalopes escalopes Uses. (U.S. of veal; sweetbreads; sweetbreads; sometimes fillets fillets of of fish. (U .S. cutlets) of h Marigny -- SmaU Small artichoke artichoke he hearts filled wi with corn A la arts filled th corn kernels in cream; potato balls, balls, browned in in butter. kernels juices of the main dish diluted with white wine Sauce. Pan juices Sauce. and thickened veal veal stock. and Uses. For small cuts cuts of meat. Uses. h marinière marinilre -- Shelled Shelled mussels cooked cooked in in white white wine; wine: A la crayfish. shelled tails of freshwater crayfish. (se SAUCE). Sauce. Mariniire SAUCE). Sauce. Marinière sauce (see Uses. For fish. fish. Uses. Marivaux -- Oval (see Oval nests nests made Duchess potato made of of Duchess Marivaux potata (see POTATOES), in the the oven, filled filled with aa mixture of of POT ATOES), browned in finely chopped carrots, celery, celery, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, and and mushfinely rooms -- which have aIl all been simmered in butter in a covered been simmered pan and (see SAUCE) blended with and blended with Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) -pan sprinkled with with Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sprinkled browned; French beans in butter. (see SAUCE) or thickened Sauce. Thin Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. veal stock. veal Uses. For large large cuts cuts of meat. Uses. A la la marocaine pilaf, lightly marocaine -- Little mounds of rice pilaf, lightly seaA (to be soned with with saffron saffron (to used as be used as canapés); canapis); diced diced baby soned (U.S. marrows zucchinis) sautéed saut6ed in in oil; oil; braised braised sweet .S. zucchinis) marrows (U stuffed with chicken forcemeat. peppers stuffed Pan juices diluted with tomato tomato juice. Sauce. Pan juices diluted juice. Uses. For noisettes of mutton or lamb. A la h mascotte mascotte -- Sliced artichoke artichoke hearts sautéed saut6ed in butter; A potatoes trimmed into into small small oval oval lengths, lengths, browned potatoes trimmed browned in butter; trufres. bu tter; sliced truffies. in a Ingredients prepared àd la mascotte are usually served in deep pie dish or in earthenware dishes. Sauce. Pan juices white wine wine and and thickened Sauce. juices diluted with white veal stock. small cuts of meat; poultry. Uses. For smaIl Mrssena -- Artichoke garnished with hearts garnished with strips strips of Massena Artichoke hearts poached bone-marrow. bone-marrow. (se SAUCE) prepared by Sauce. Marrow sauce by diluting Sauce. sauce (see the the marrow has been cooked. the juices juices in which themarrow been cooked. small cuts of meat. Uses. For smaU Massenet- Anna potatoes individual mou moulds Massenetpotatoes baked in individual Ids and (see POT turned out (see POTATOES, turned out ATOES, Anna potatoes potatoes for for garnish); small artichokes artichokes filled with aa salpicon salpicon of of bone-marrow; bone-marrow; small filled with French beans in butter. butter. Sauce. Meat juices dish or aa Demi-glace sauce Sauce. juices of the main dish (see SAUCE) flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. (see Uses. For large or small cuts of meat. meat. glazd onions; Matelote onions; mushrooms; mushrooms; small Matelote - Small Small glazed cro0tons croûtons fried in butter. butter. (se SAUCE) with red wine. Sauce. Matelote Sauce. Matelote sauce (see Uses. For fish. Matignm stuffed with with aa matignon matignon Matignon -- Artichoke Artichoke hearts hearts stuffed (q.v.), sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and and browned; stuffed (q.v.), braised lettuces. lettuces. Sauce. Madeira (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Madeira sauce or Port wine sauce (ser, Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. meat.

Tiny artichokes cooked cooked in in butter, butter, stuffed stuffed with aa Jessica -- Tiny salpicon of of bone-marrow bone-marrow with with shallots; shallots; morels morels sautéed saut6ed in in salpicon potatoes (see (see POT butter; Anna potataes POTATOES) in individual butter; ATOES) baked in moulds. (s* SAUCE) Sauce. Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE) increased bya by a third Sauce. with concentrated (see concentrated veal veal stock stock and and Truffle Truffie essence essence (see with ESSENCE). (see CHICKEN); Uses. For For Suprême SuprAme of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); veal Uses. (U.S.. cutlets); coddled or poached eggs. escalopes (U.S Joinville -- Salpicon of shrimps, Salpicon of shrimps, truffies and and mushrooms, Joinville blended into (se SAUCE); into Velouté Velouti sauce or Normande Normande sauce (see SAUCE); blended truffies. sliced truffles. Squce. Normande (see BUTTER, Normande sauce saucewith butter (see Sauce. with Shrimp butter Compound butters). Compound Uses. For baked fish. Uses. Shred into into matchstick strips, carrots, turnips, Julienne -- Shred and celery. celery. Cook them in in butter until until tender. leeks, onions, and clear meat stock. If If a vegetarian soup is is required, water Add clear is added added instead instead of of stock. stock. To To this this mixture mixture add add shredded is cabbageandlettuce freshpeas, or22 tablespoons cabbage and lettuce hearts, fresh peas, and 1I or shreddod sorrel. shredded For soup. Uses. For A la h languedocienne hnguedocienne -- Cèpes Cdpes sautéed oil; diced saut6ed in butter or oil; A or sliced sliced aubergines fried in aubergines fried in oil; oil; potatoes cut cut to to look look like or olives and cooked slowly in clarified butter. (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured Sauce. Demi-glace sauce tomato. Uses. For large and small and sm aIl cuts of meat; poultry. Uses. A la la lorraine -- Red Red cabbage braised in red red wine; wine; Potato A braised in (see POTATOES). POTATOES). fondantes (see Sauce. Diluted Demi-glace (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or braising Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see stock; in in addition, Horseradish (see SAUCE) served sauce (see stock; Horseradish sauce grated horseradish. separately, or grated horseradish. separately, Uses. For large cuts of meat, particularly braised braised cuts. A la la lyonnaise Medium-sized stuffed onions, onions, braised; lyonnaise -- Medium-sized (see POT Potato POTATOES). ATOES). Po tata fondantes fondantes (see (se SAUCE). Sauce. Lyonnaise sauce (see Sauce. Uses. For large cuts of meat. meat. Macedoine which have have been of vegetables vegetables which Macédoine -- Mixture Mixture of water separately, separately, drained, and tossed in butter; in water drained, and cooked in carrots and turnips turnips diced or shaped with a ball-scoop; bali-scoop; diced French small kidney kidney beans; etc. Cauliflower Cauliflower French beans; beans; smaIl beans; peas, peas, etc. florets may be added. Sauce. Juices of the roast or clear veal stock. Sauce. small cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large or smaU Maillot PorteMaillot) -- Glazed carrots and Maillot 1I (also (also called caUed Porte-MaiUot) turnips in small oval lengths (or ovallengths (or shaped with aa ball-scoop); bali-scoop); French French beans in in butter; butter; braised lettuces. lettuces. These vegetables, vegetables, arranged round the dish in separate groups, are sometimes sometimes glazd, onions interspersod knobs of of cauli-. caulionions and and knobs interspersed with with little little glazed flower sprinkled with melted butter. butter. (se, SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce SAUCE) flavoured fiavoured with Sauce. sauce (see Madeira. Madeira. Uses. For large large cuts of meat, especially especially ham. Maillot Coarsely shredded Maillot II II -- Coarsely shredded carrots carrots and and turnips, turnips, simmered French beans in butter. butter in aa covered covered pan; French butter. simmered in butter Sauce and uses. As Maillot Maillot I. 1.

Maillot Maillot garnish gamish round round aa ham

415 415

GARNISHES GARNISHES Very small small tomatoes filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of Melba -- Very Velouti sauce in Velouté blendod in chicken, truffies, and and mushrooms, blended (see SAUCE), sprinkled with breadcrumbs and and browned; (see sprinkled with braised lettuce. flavoured with port. Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock fiavoured Uses. For small cuts of meat. slices of small small vegetable vegetable marrows Mentonnaise -- Thick Thick slices stuffed with tomato-fiavoured rice; small cooked artichokes tomato-flavoured rice; to look cut to simmered in butter in aa covered pan; potatoes cut clarified butter. like olives and cooked slowly in c1arified (se Thickened veal veal stock stock or or Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Thickened SAUCE). SAUCE). and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and curriod rice to be Mikado -- Small rice to used as Small mounds mounds of curried be used filled with soya bean shoots in cream. canapis; tartlets filled canapés; (see, SAUCE) with soya added. Sauce. Sauce. Curry sauce (see suprAmes of chicken, escalopes (U.S. cutlets) of Uses. For suprêmes veal. (see MACARONI); Macaroni à MACARONI); Milanaise Milanaise 1| -- Macaroni d l'italienne I'italienne (see cooked ham in dariole moulds. tomato. Sauce. Sauce. Veal stock flavoured with tomato. Uses. For large pieces of meat. lozenges and Mlanaise tr - Semolina gnocchi (cut in lozenges rec:tallgleS) .. init-IM with cheese and browned. u"p,,,_,,,;;,,~. rectangles) "", sprinkled Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock fiavoured flavoured with tomato. (se MACARONI); Milanaise m III-- Macaroni I'italienne (see MACARONI); Milanaise Macaroni àd l'italienne ham, pickled cooked harn, pickled tongue, mushrooms, and truffies, cut flavoured into strips and blended blended in concentrated veal stock fiavoured with toma to, making aa coarw julienne. tomato, either mixed with the macaroni or arranged Thisjulienne This julienne is either in a circle round it. especially veal cutlets (U.S. Uses. For small cuts of meat especially chops) in breadcrumbs. Mirabeau -- Stoned Stoned olives; olives; anchovy anchovy fillets; fillets; blanched Mirabeau and occasionally occasionally matchstick matchstick tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Watercress and potatoes are also included in this garnish. Compound butters). butters). Sauce. Anchovy Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, Compound gnlled steaks. especially grilled Uses. For small cuts of meat especially (q.v.) of vegetables in A h moderne -- Chartreuse Charteuse (q.v.) rn dariole À la potatoes. moulds; stuffed, braised lettuces; small potatoes. moulds; Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock with butter added. Uses. Large cuts of meaL meat. Little cakes of of spinach spinach with Parmesan cheese; Mont-Bry -- Little cheese;

Nichette -- Grilled filled with grated horseGrilled mushrooms filled ragofit of cocks' radish; ragoût cocks'combs and cocks' cocks'kidneys, blended radish; combs and (se SAUCE). in Marrow sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Marrow sauce. Uses. For small cuts of meat; suprAmes. A la simmerod in À niçoise 1I -- Small h nigoise Small skinned tomatoes, tomatoes, simmered (courgettes or vegetable marrows (courgettes butter; very small braised vegetable stewed in zucchini); small small artichokes artichokes stewed in butter; butter; potato balls browned in butter. butter. Thickened veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato, tomato, or Sauce. Sauce. Thickened pan juices of the main dish flavoured fiavoured with tomato. Uses.Large and and small cuts ofmeat; of meat; poultry. A h nigoise n tr -- Small tomatoes ",",,,,prl"f1 simmered in butter with a little chopped garlic; French beans in butter; new potatoes look like like olives and browned in butter, or potatoes cut to to look browned clarified butter. cooked slowly in c1arified Sauce and uses. As above. A h nigoise In Itr -- Tomato Tomato fondte d la nigoise (see TOMATO); blanched blanched green or black olives; anchovy fillets; capers. fish, the fondue is cooked in the When served with baked fish, same dish as the fish; for grilled fish, it is prepared separately. Uses. U.res. For fish. Ninon -- Nests Duchess potato (see POT POTATOES) filled Nests of Duchess ATOES) filled kidneys blended with aa salpicon salpicon of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys blended in with (se SA Velouti sauce (see Velouté UCE); asparagus tips in butter. SAUCE); Sauce. Sauce. Marrow sauce (see SAUCE). meat. Uses. For small cuts of meaL trimmed in small ovallengths; oval lengths; small Nivernaise Nivernaise -- Carrots Carrots trimmed glazed onions. SAUCE) if the main dish Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (se SA UCE) or, if is braised, the braising stock. Uses. For large cuts of meat. Normande -- Oysters, trimmed and Oysters, trimmed and poached; mussels; "LU lUI!:," , mushrooms; frp.,huI
HIPFOCRASHIPPOCRAS - Spiced Spiced aromatic aromatic wine wine much enjoyed by by our ancestors. It was was so called because becaus.e it was was filtered filterOO through Ihrough a ancestors. of a type said to to be be invented by Hippocrates, Hippocrales, the the great bag of physician who lived lived in the the fifth fifth century cenlury B.C. B.C speaking Hippocras Hippocras was was a a type type of of aperitif apéritif Properly speaking similar to la the vermouths vermouths made made nowadays, rather than a table similar wine. Our Our forebears, forebears, in În fact, facl, drank drank itit before before meals meals or, ifif itit was of the meal. roeal. served at table, at the end of Arnaud de Villeneuve, Villeneuve, famous'thirteenth famous' thirteenth century physinumber of of different different recipes for the spiced wine. cian, gives a number wine to the boil In one recipe he he recommends recommends bringing the wîne J litres (5| (st pints, and putting in it a sachet containing, for 3 75 g. g, (3 oz.) oz.) each each of the the following following spices: 6l pints) wine, 75 raisÎns. Boil the wine wîne until it is cubeb, cloves, nutmeg and raisins. sugar. reduced reduced by byaa third of of its volume. Add sugar. In ln another another recipe, the wine wÎne is is spiced spiced with a a mixture mixture of of nuts, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, paradise DutS, cloves, sugar and a a pinch pinch cinnamon, ofmusk. Hippocras Hippocras was was drunk drunk cooled cooled or or even even iced iced whenever possible. possible. This wine remained popular for a a very long time; it it was it were still in fashion in the eighteenth century. Presents of it made made to the king and to foreign nobility. Here is Îs a more recent rceent recrpe for Hippocras: g. (If lb., 3 cups) sugar in aa saucepan wilh Put 700 g, with 4 dl. (i scant 2 cups) water and the following spices: 4 teatea(1 pint, pmt, seant (ground), cloves, t of nutmeg (ground), of aa nutmeg to 2 spoons grnger, ginger, 2 cloves, to tablespoons cinnamon and the zest of Seville oranges. tablespoons cinnamon of 2 Seville Boil this syrup for a few few minutes. Add 2 litres litres (3| pints, (white or red). a| pints) of old wine (white rOO). Leave the mixture on the stove until until the surface turns it into aa large stave tums white, then pour it jug and leave Strain through jug leave to ta infuse infuse for 30 minutes. Strain through muslin, and bottle. bottle.

Swallow's SwaIJow's nest nesl soup

Brill lzard Izard cutlets Capercaillie Capereaîllie Good Hope. Hope, etc. Wines Wines from Tokay, Tokay, the Rhine, Cape of Good dishes. Monselet gave the highest prai.se praise to each of of these dishes. Joseph H6mard Hémard describes how how Chavette, looking looking stern and tragic, tragie, pointed an accusihg accusihg finger l'inger at al Monselet when the meal had had ended: ended: 'You have just, 'Vou just, he jeered jeered with witb a fiendish laugh, 1augh, publicly public1y your ignorance. The was a The swallow's nest soup soup was swallow's nest admitted your admitted pur6e ofnood1es cooked of noodles and kidney beans; purée beans; the brill briB was cod cooked on a fine comb (and (and to illustrate illustrale his point he showed showed him the carefully preserved of two carefully preserved backbone made of two yellow yellow combs were lamb cutlets were izard euùets sewn together back sewn back to ta back); baek); the tbe izard small was aa small capercaillie was cutlets marinated in bitters; the capercaîllie cutlets marinated in bitters; the Clos-Vougeot turkey sprinkled with a a glass of absinth! The Clos-Vougeot of cognac and aa flower of cognac by adding a was made made by a spoonful of fiower of was nothing violet to the Tokay was an ordinary ordinary wine; the violet to an nothing but but a punch added; for the South as for the South M6gon added; and as with aa Utile little punch Mâçon with simply aChablis.' African wine, it was u,as simply African wine, a Chablis.' recognised the . . :, .', Monse\e1 Monselet protested timidly, timidly, 'l'I recognised ·'But "But .. perfume of the little . . .' little Rhine flower .. perfume 'Which we obtained with a few drops of of thyme.' thyme.' ofessence 'Which essence of Then confronted confronted head. Then Monselet lowered his his head. Overcome, Monse!et and lheir their by the laughter of of the the other other guests and the unrestrained laughter and penance, for for an exhortations for for peaance, an amende amende honorable, and flung hims.elf himself to to his sort, he he fiung other encouragements encouragements of of [hat that sort, other in aa clasped, and and entreated entreated in in front front of of Chavette, hands dasped. knees in trembling voiee: voice: trembling 'Mercy! Pray don't Don't spread this abroad! don't betray me! Doo't you! lI have children!' children!' Save me from dishonour, 1I beg of you! probably conc\uded The soirée concluded with with much much drinking drinking and soirEe probably The not seem merriment. At At ail secret does does not seem ta to have all evenls, events, the the secret merriment. yet another been weil well kept. kept. No No more, in fact, fact, than than on on yet more, in been guest of the author occasion when the same Monselet was the guest same Monselet occasion Favre. The The latter latter Dictionnaire de de cuisine, cuisine,Joseph of the Grand Dictionnaire Joseph Favre. had wri written: tten : 'Dear Maître, fork will be be aa fork there will Maitre, tomorrow tomorrow at at midday, midday, there 'Oear party at Fulbert Dumonteil. Dumonteil. at the home of our friend Fulbert luncheon party shall be doing the eooking.' cooking.' 1I shall journalist, novelist aod guest, the joumalisl, There was was to be aa fourth fourth guest, and politician, Tony The meou follows: R6villon. The as foUows: menu was was as Tony Révillon. polîtician,

(lj

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Large amphibious amphibious HIppoporAME --- Large HIP PO POT AMUS. HIPPOPOTAME HIPPTOPOTAMUS. food by the for food pachyderm whose flesh is mueh much sought after for pac:;n"loerm natives. African natives. (Gastronomic). SUPERCHERlES cAsrRoNoMIQUEs -surnncnnnres GASTRONOMIQUES HOAXES (G.astrollomic). of one gastronomic hoaxes By gastronomie we mean the substituting of hoaxes we By mean the product for anolher, another, or practical jokes and tricks of a similar product are nature. The various forms of falsification involving fraud are mystify and surprise Hoaxes intended to mystil'y not dealt with here. Hoaxes downfalsification harmless; while commercial falsifica are usually harmless; tian is dowoto or or detracting right dishonest. dishonest. The latter involves adding to right product and an and offering offering an from aa wholesome, wholesome, high-grade product from purpose of (or even of its place for the the purpose in Îts even harmful) one in inferior (or gain. illicit gain. îllicit It may be gastronomic hoax may take severaI forms. lt several forms. The gastronomie his guests of his advantags of who takes takes unfair advantage the jest of aa host host who to test the the it may may be [0 meal; it before serving them them with aa proper meal; the gastronomic skills order ta to amuse the gastronomie skills of aa particular guest in arder with the others; itit may be dietated dictated by by evenL~ events with the tacil tacit may even even be others; the agreement of be aa practical joke, where the finally, it may he of all; finally. agreement out of of host mystifies mystifies everybody by suddenly producing from out host all that that itit some startling novelty (which may not be ail the blue sorne be) ! appears to be)! out invitations invitations de la la Reynière Reyniire sent sent out host - Grimod de Jest of aa host'Economists' luncheon', for aa luneheon luncheon party, aa SQ-called so-called 'Economists' for world. and agricultural agricultural world. reserved for specialists in the business and announced that that When they arrived, the master of the the house announced the mas When 1er of guests together could taste ail all he had so that that they they could had gathered his gueslS together so he grain(baked for vary and grainsorts of of breads (baked varying of time) and sorts mg lengths of based beverages. beverages. based Knowing the la Reynière's Reynidre's reputation of of Grimod Grimod de de la the reputatîon Knowing guests had can table, the fasted the before. So So one one can the guests had faste
Stuffed tomatoes

plate, sprinkle with the marinade, an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'uavre dish dish or plate, and garnish with fresh parsley and half slices of lemon cut with a fluted cutter. Tomatoes, ToMATHI FARCIES FARcIES -- Prepare tomatoes as Tomatoesr stufJed. strffed" TOMATES described described in the recipe for Tomatoes à d l'antiboise I'antiboise (see above). Garnish with a compound purée, Russian Russian salad, or a compound butter, pur6e, salpicon salpicon (q.v.).

presented in aa Stuffed tomatoes presented hollowed-out hollowed-out cucumber

noRs-p'GUvRE CHAUDS HOT HORS-D'ŒUVRE. HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'œuVRE cHAUDS -Allumettes -- Puff pastry rectangles, spread with aa suitable and baked in the oven. mixture and Make Puffpastry(see Puffpastry (see DOUGH). Roll out to a thickness thickness of (3 inches) c-. (t inch) inch) and and cut cut into into ribbons ribbons 71 7t cm. cm. (3 inches) long. 1* cm. fish, and add the Spread with aa cold forcemeat of poultry or fish, garnish appropriate appropriate to to the the recipe. (l inch) wide. Cut the ribbons into rectangles about 2lcm. cm. (1 Put Put on on aa baking baking sheet sheet and and bake bake in in the the oven oven for for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. Arrange on aa napkin and and serve very hot. Allumettes with L ALLUMETTES lrluugTrrs AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -with anchovies anchovies I. (see FORCEMEAT) Spread forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) with Spread with with Fish Fisft forcemeat Anchovy Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters.) Garnish with fillets fillets of anchovy. Allumettes with II. ALLUMETTES ALrx ANCHOIS ANcHors -with anchovies n. lnul,tpTTEs AUX Spread with Salpicon anchovies and and hardSalpicon (q.v.) of fillets of anchovies boiled eggs blended with thick Béchamel UCE). Bichamel sauce (see SA SAUCE). Allumettes ài l'andalouse forcemeat l'andalouse -- Spread Spread with with Poultry forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) seasoned paprika, mixed (see with paprika, nixed with with aa seasoned with salpicon salpicon of and onions onions cooked cooked in in butter, also ham and of lean lean harn butter, also seasoned seasoned with paprika.

Tomatoes TES À A LA rl VINAIGRETTE vINAIcRETTE -la vinaigrette. TOMA rou.e,tss Tomatoes ài la Skin the tomatoes, take out the seeds and water and cut into slices or quarters. Put on aa towel, cover with salt and and leave them to to render their liquor for 1I hour. Arrange and dish, sprinkle sprinkle with with oil oil and hors-d'euvre dish, Arrange in in an an hors-d'œuvre parsley, chervil vinegar, and tarragon. tarragon. Sprinkle chervil and vinegar, chopped chopped parsley, ground pepper pepper and with freshly ground and garnish with thin rounds of raw raw onion. Tongue, ruut -pickled and LANGUE ÉCARLATE, fcmtltr, FUMÉ Tongue, pickJed smoked. LANGUE and smoked. Cut into thin slices and hors-d'euvre dish. dish. and serve in an hors-d'œuvre Trout, MARINEEs -- Cook very small Trout marinated. TRITITEs MARINÉES Cook very mrrinated. TRUITES (see COURT-BOUILLON). trout in Court-bouillon trout in XII (see Court-bouillon XII Leave Leave them them to in their to cool in their cooking cooking stock. stock. Arrange Arrange in in an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. dish. Pour Pour the the stock over the the fish fish and and garnish parsley. with seeded and slices of lemon, and and peeled slices and fresh fresh parsley. Trout ài l'orientale. I'orientale. TRUITES A L'ORIENTALE t'onIENrAln -- Prepare TRUITES À Prepare and and cook very small trout as mul/et àd l'orientale as indicated for for Red Redmullet I'orientale above. Arrange Arrange on an hors-d'euvre dish. an hors-d'œuvre dish. Trout, smoked. TRUITES ruvrfss -- Garnish and TRUITES FUMÉES and serve with with toast and and lemon.

2t

469 469

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE Allumettes èi la la chalonnai.se chalonnaise -- Spread with with Poultry Poultry forceAllumettes force(s@ FORCEMEAT) to meat (sec to which diced diced cocks' cocks'combs and meat combs and have been kidneys, mushrooms mushrooms and truffies truffes have been added. added. kidneys, Allumettes Chavette Chavette -- Spread Spread with with Fish Fisft forcemeat AUumettes forcemeat (see (see BUTTER, FORCEMEAQ wÎth with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER', ComFORCEMEAT) pottnd butters). butters). Garnish Garnish with with crayfish crayfish tails tails and and truffies. trufres. pound Alhmettes P6carlate -- Spread Spread with wth Vea/ Veal forcernear AD 0 mettes èi l'éclU"late forcemeat (see pickled or FORCEMEAT) to which which aa salpicon salpicon of of pickled or smoked FORCEMEA T) to tongue has has becn been added. added. puree of Nhrmettes èi l'écossaise l'6cossairse -- Spread Spread with with purée haddock of haddock AUl.lmCUI~ with thick lldchamel sauce blended with thick Béchamel sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). bleoded Allumettes ài la Ia florentine florentine -- Spread with with spinach spinach cooked cooked in in Allumettes butter, blended blended with with thick thick Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE), grated cheese to which grated has been cheese bas been added. added. Sprinkle with to just before serving. Parmesan cheese and brown in the cheese and brown in the oven oven jusl serving. Parmesan prssALAT pissalat TOlmTE Anchory fart tail widl with pissalat. ToT.JRTE D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors AU AU PISSALAT Anchovy pasre (see (see DOUGH) Roll out ourt Lining Lining paste DOUGH) 1I cm. cm. $ inch) truck. thick. -- Roll Line aa large large tart tart tin tin wi with the pastry, crimp the the edges. edges. Line th the fillets of of anchovy, dry dry them well in a cloth and and cover cover Desalt fillels pastry with the pastry with [hem them in in aa criss-cross criss-cross pattern. Sprinkle with with the tablespoon finely finely chopped onions and distribute 20 20 black 1I tablespooo (scant tI cup) olive olives on on top. top. Dress Dress with with 33 tablespoons tablespoons (seant olives (3 tablespoons) pissalat (q.v.). (q.v.). oil mixed with with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) pissalal oil in aa slow oven. oven. Serve Serve very hot. Cook in Anchoyade 1I -- Desalt Desalt and and scrape fiJlets fillets of of anchovy and Anchoyade ste€p them for for several several minutes in in olive oil oil to whieh which chopped chopped steep garlic and ground pepper pepper have and ground have been added. garlic pieces of Arrange the the flllets fillets on on large pÎeces of crust crust eut from the cut from Arrange part of lower part of home-made bread. Crush the fiJlets fillets ooto onto the Jower pieces of bread thern with with other other pieces brpad cut of bread cut into into bread by by pressing pressing them squares, which are then The diners diners eat eat these squares, which are then removed. removed. The with squares one after the other, as they become impregnated with anchovy. anchovy. Moisten the crusts with with the the oil oil in in which Moisten the crusts wruch the fillets flllets have grill. soaked, and and grill. This Provengal dish dish is This is known known in in the Bouches-du-Rh6ne Bouches-du-Rhône district of quichel. district under under the name na me of Etichet. Archoyade II - Desalt of anchovy. Pound, moistenAncboyade IlDesalt fillets fillets of ing with and vinegar. with a a few few tablespoons I.2.blespoons olive oil oil and Spread this Cover with on large slices slices of of bread. bread. Cover [his pur6e on slices of eggs and minced onions. Add of hard-boiled eggs minced onions. Add aa few slices drops oil, season pepper and drops of of olive olive oi!, season with with freshly ground ground pepper heat heat lightly lightly in in the the oven. oven. Attereaux to the the method melhod of of cooking on Attereaux -- Name N ame given to skewers, skewers, in in which which the the ingredients, instead of of being grilled, are are coated coated with with a a sauce, sauce, dipped into into egg egg and breadcrumbs, and and fried. fried. All Ali the the ingredients Ingredients are first first cooked, then theo cut cut into into pieces. pieces. Any ingredient for attereaux Ingredient used used for allereaux must be be quite cold before it is put on on a a wooden wooden or or metal metal skewer. skewer. The different diiferent ingredients used used are are garnished garnished according according to ta their their nature with with mushrooms, mushrooms, truffes, truffles, etc. etc. The The sauce sauce must must be he thick thick and and almost almost cold. cold. When When the the skewer skewer is is full full and and coated coated with with sauce sauce itit is is left left to ta get quite quite cold before itÎI isis dipped into egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Attereaux are are fried just just before serving, drained and and dried, dried, arranged on on aa napkin napkin and and garnished garoished with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. If]f wooden waoden skewers skewers are are used used they they are taken taken out when the the cooking serving. cooking isis finished finished and and replaced by by silver skewers skewers for 1"''''''''~''J ..'l,n Use Use short short metal metal skewers instead instead of of wooden wooden ones ones if possible. This This does does away away with with the the necessity nece.ssity of of replacing replacing the the skewers after after cooking. cooking. In In ancient ancient times times attereaux attereaux wete were served served as as an an entrie entrée volante volante or or small small enftie. entrée. They were were served served in in a circle on aa crust crust of of fried fried sandwich sandwich bread, or or on on aa foundation foundation of of rice. nce. All of meat, meat, fish, fish, shellflsh shellfish and and aa variety variety of of other other Ali kinds kinds of food, food, cut eut into into small small square square pieces, pieces, can cao be he used used for for attereaux. attereaux. The The sauce sauce can can be he white white or or brown, brown, made made from from meat, meat, fish fish

or vegetable vegetable stock. stock, according according ta to the the principal ingredient ingredient of of or the atlereaux. attereaux. Thjs This ingredient given to ingredient rti>II the ... ,.,ml1nP< the name determines name given to the attereaux attereaux on on the the menu. menu. the Attereaux èi l'écarlate l'6carhte -- Pickled Pickled or or smoked smoked tangue, tongue, Attereaux mushrooms and and truffies trufres coated coated with with thick thick Velouté Velouti sauce sauce mushrooms (see SAUCE) puree added. SAUCE) with with tomato tomato purée added. (sec Attereaux àI la la Villeroi Villeroi -- Brains. Brains, cocks' cocks' combs combs or or combs combs of of Attereaux gras, sweetbreads. other birds. birds, foie sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'kidneys, etc. The The other kidneys, etc. foie gras, dish may may be be completed completod with with the the addÎtÎons additions of of mushrooms. mushrooms, dish pickled tongue, truffies, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, pickled ham, etc. tongue, harn, etc. Poultry Poultry truffles. or other cold cold meat meat can can be be used used in in the same way. the same way. Coat with Coat with or Villeroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Villeroi ATTEREAUX on ::::.:R crnveI,rn Attereaux of brain i I'ancienne. A TfEREAUX DE VELLE À A L'.a,NcIENNE -- Poached Poached brain, brain, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies trufles L'ANCIENNE coated with with Villeroi sauce (see SA SAUCE). coated UCE). Attereaux ofbnùn of brain àA ltitalienne. ATTEREAUX ATTEREAT.TX DE oe CERVELLE cERvnr-l.g À Attere1!UX A L'ITALIENNE -- Poached Poached brain, brain, haro ham and and mushrooms coated L'ITALIENNE coated with Duxelles sauce (see SA SAUCE). with U CE). la mirepoix. nirepoix. AATTEREAT.TX brain i la DE CER ctsRvELLE TTEREAUX DE VELLE Attereaux of bram A LA r.l MIREPOlX rr,rnnpoD( -.- Poached Poached brain and harn ham coated brain and coated with À with mirepoix (q.v.) of (see of vegetables blended blended with with Villeroi sauce (see mirepoix sAUCE). SAUCE). Attereaux of cbicken chicken livers èi hl la duxeUes. duxelles. AITEREAUX ATTEREAUX DE DE Attereaux FoIEs DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE À A LA r,c, DUXELLES ouxerrss -- Chicken Chicke,n Iivers livers browned fOIES lightly in butter and mushrooms eoaled coated with with Duxelles sauce (see SAUCE). (see Attereaux of of cocks' cocks' combs combs Ili l'ancienne. l'ancienne. AT11:lREAUX ATTEREAIx DE Attereaux cRErEs DE DE COQ coe ÀA r'lNcrrNr*s Cocks' combs combs stuffed stuffed àri la cR!n:.s L'ANCIENNE -- Cocks' /a (q.v.), ham &txelles (q.v.), and mushrooms coated coated with with Villeroi duxelles haro and (see SAUCE) with tomatoes. sauce (see Attereaux lobster. ATTEREATTx DE DE HoMARD Attereaux of lobs ter. ATTEREAUX HOMARD - Lobster, (see mushrooms and truffles trufres coated coated with with Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see mushroorns and SAUCE) or Shellfish Shellfish butter butter (see BUTTER', Compound Compound SA UCE) or (see BUTTER, butters\. butters). Attereaux of of oysters. ATTERBALx Attereaux ATfEREAUX n'HulTnns D'HuîTRES - Poached Poached (xe oysters and coated with with Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see and mushrooms coated SAUCE) based on fish flsh stock. Attereaux i Lala royale and ài la Attereaux of of Parmesan, Pa!'tlleSSIl, also knonm knOWll as è princesse. ATTEREALx AU princesse. ATTBREAUX AU IARITTEsAN PARMESAN - Cook a stiff semolina with Spread out to with Parmesan. Spread 10 cool on a a baking sheet in a 2tctn. ~-cm. (finch) (i-înch) layer. layer. When quite cold, cut eut into ioto circlets 21 cm. l-cm. (l (1 inch) in diameter. diameter. Put these on the the skewers, skewers, alternating alternating with with rounds of Gruydre Gruyère cheese. cheese. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs, crumbs. but not with any sauce. Attereaux ATI"EREAUX DE RIs RIS D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, RIs RIS Attere.aux of sweetbreads. ATTEREALTX DE DE vEAUVEAU - Sweetbreads, Sweetbreads. mushrooms mushrooms and truffies coated coated with Villeroi VUleroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Attereaux Attereaux of various various vegetables vegetables. ATTEREATIx ATTEREAUX os DE LfcuMss LÉGUMESCooked Cooked or or parboiled vegetables, such such as as artichoke hearts, hearts, pumpkin, carrots, celeriac, etc. carrots, etc. One One of of these these or or various various combinations combinat ions can cao be used. Coat Coat with thick Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Barquetteg Barquettes., gamished. garnisbed. BARe{JETTEs BARQUETTES cARNTES GARNIES -- Oval-shaped tartlets tartlets lined lined with with different kinds kinds of of pastry (puff pastry, ordinary lining (pie) pastry, paslry, etc.) etc.) baked blind and filled with different ingredients. Roll out out the the pastry pastry 2l 2i mm. mm. ($ (~ inch) inch) thick. thick. Stamp Stamp the the dough dough out out with with aa fluted ftuted oval aval pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Butter Butter barquette barquette baking baking tins, tins, plain or fluted. fluted. Put Put the the cut-out eut-out pieces of of pastry into into the the moulds, pressing pressing well weIl down down so that that they cling cling to to all sides sides of of the the tins. tins. Prick Prick the the pastry pastry lining lining the the base base of the the tins tins to to prevent prevent blistering. Put Put greaseproof greaseproof paper paper in in each each and fill fil 1 the the tins tins with with dried peas or or rice. rice. Bake Bake in in aa moderate moderate oven oyen for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Remove the the paper paper and and the the peas peas or or rice. rÎce. Take Take the tbe pastry pastry out out of of the the tins, tins. brush brush with with egg egg and and put put back baek into iOlo the the oven oven for for aa few few minutes minutes to to dry, dry, leaving leavll1g the the oven oven door door open. open. This This way way of of preparing prepanng pastry pastry is îs called caUro baking baking blind blind (un(un470

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

filld). The The reason for filling filling the reason for the tartlets tartlets with with dried drid ve~~et sauce SA UCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Cxnied Curried tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTEs TARTELETTES A À I'tNplENNn L'iNDIENNE -- Fill Fill with with aa prawn ragofrt made with with cuffy. Put Put I1 teaspoon tcaspoon Rice Rice dà I'inl'inragoût made dienru (see RICE) on on each each tartlet. (sec RICE) Tartlets ià l'6coss8ise. l'écossaise. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES A À r'fcosslts L'ÉCOSSAISE - GarGarnish nish with with Salmon Salmon purie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Cover with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated cheese, cheese, and and brown. brown. Put Put aa piece of of sliced sliced truffie trurne on on each tartlet. tartlet. Tartlets ià la la japonaise. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES A Â r"l LA r.lpopusn JAPONAISE -- Fill Fil) with with Chinese Ch.inese artichdkes with with cream. cream. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried through in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Warm Wannthrough in the the oven. oven. Metternich Mertemicb tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES METTERNIcS METTERNICH - Garnish Garnish with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads sweelbreads and and truffies truffles seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Put Put aa small small slice slice of of calf's calf's brain brain on on each each tartlet. tartlet. wth Hungariot Cover Cover with Hungarian. sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Tartlets Tartlets ià la la mirepoil. mirepoix. rlnrsrsmns TARTELETTES A Â r,l LA unspox MIREPOIX - Fill Fil! with wÎth aa mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables cooked cooked in in butter butter with with aa salpicon salpicon of ham harn blended blended with rich rich veal veal gravy. Cover Cover with with (see FORCEMEATS). a a thin thin layer layer of of Chicken Chicken forcemeat forcemea/ (sec Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. TARTELETTEs PRINTANIA Printania Printania tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES PRINTANlA - Fill Fill with with Sprinkle with cream. Sprinkle morels in in cream. with fried fried breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Warm Wann and then through through in in the the oven oven and then put put I1 teaspoon teaspooD asparagus asparagus tips tips tartlet. cooked cooked in butter butter on on each each tartlet. with aa salpicon salpicon Fill with nfcIN,c. -- Fi!! TARTELETTEs RÉGINA Regina tarttets. tliIrtlets. TARTELEl"TES Sprinkle with with cream. cream. Sprinkle and truffies of mushrooms and of truffies with with fried fried put aa and then then put oven and through in breadcrumbs. Warm Warm through in the the oven each on each in butter saut6ed in of sweetbread sweetbread sautéed slice of very small small slice butter on very tartlet. tart/et.

(see

mix. mile. Finish Finish the the subrics subrics in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Semolina Semoli.na subrics. subrics. sLJBRIcs SUBRICS DE Dr; sEMouLE SEMOULE -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Rice Rice subrics subrics d à Ia la piimonlaise, pîémonlaise, using using semolina semolina cooked cooked in in aa clear stock or or in in milk. milk. Omit Omit the the chopped chopped ham, ham, ifif desired. d~ired. cJear stock Sweetbread Sweetbread srbrics. subrics. suBRIcs SUBRICS DE DE RIs RlS DE DE vEAU, VEAU, D'AGNEAU n'AGNEAU -Proceed Proceed as as described described for for Brain Brain subrics, subrics, using using aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Talnouse Talmouse -- This This can be he made made in many many different different ways ways but but itit should always always have have cheese checs.e as a basis. basis. Line tartlel tins tins with with Fine Fine linW lining paste(see pasle (see DOUGH) DOUGB) Line fluted fluted tartlet and and fill fil! with whatever whatever cheese chccse preparation preparation is is given given in in the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Brush with with egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with Gruydre Gruyère cheese, cheese. dîce, and and bake bake in a slow oven. oven. Take tbe the talmouses out oui of of the the dice, tins. tins. Talmouses which which have Gougire Gougère batter baller (see (sec DOUGH) DOUGH) as aa basis basis are often filled fùled with with a cream cheese cheese mixture after after they are cooked. Talmouses Talmouses A à I'ancienne J'ancienne - Roll RoU out out some sorne left-over puff puff pastry to ta a thickness of 5 mm. (+ inch). Cut into squares of of 6 cm. cm. (2t (21· inches). inches). Coat with a thin layer of the mixture ml."
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487 487

HORSE HORSE BUTCHERY BUTCHER y forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Fill Fil! with diced macaroni, macaroni, forcemeat blended blendcd with with cream, crcam, to to which which a a salpicon of of truffies trumes and chopped choppcd tongue tongue has has been been added. added. Finish Finish in the usual usual way way and serve serve with SuprAme Suprême sauce sauce (sw (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Beauvilliers Beauvilliers timbales. timbales. TTMBALES TIMBALES BEALTwLLTERS BEAUVILLIER.t1 cro0tons. alternating altemating with rows of fried fried heart-shaped Put into into the the pan 22 tablespoons (3 tab,lesIPOc)fls) tablespoons) Bayonne ham drained, dried, and finely which has ham which has been blanched, drained, shredded. When the ham is is lightly lightly browned the ham shredded. When browned add 2 tablecdpes or caps, spoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) shredded cèpes or mushroom caps, and saut6lightly. Add 2 c10ves cloves of garlic, also finely chopped. chopped. ($ pint, vinegar, add Dilute with 1I tablespoon wine wine vinegar, add 22 dl. (t U CE). Demi-glace sauce (see SA scant cup) tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured Demi-glace SAUCE). Cook for 5 minutes. Pour over over the chops. papillotes. CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU EN Lamb chops en papillotes. cOrsr,rrrEs D'AGNEAU EN pApILLorEs described in recipe for for Veal Veal in the the recipe - Prepare asas described chops en papillote (see VEAL). VEAL).

538

LAMB LAMB in in a a ring ring on on a a layer layer of of Potatoes Potatoes d à la la

Fricass6e Fricassée of of lamb. 18mb. rnrclssm FRICASsÉE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - This is the same same as the second recipe for Blanquette of larnb above. above. Lamb's Lamb's head à I'6cossaisc. rBre o'lcNEAU A, À I'fcossnsn L'ÉCOSSAISE -

sarladalse sarladaise (see (see POPO-

TATOES). T ATOES). Pour Pour around around the the potatoes several several tablespoons tablespoons of of Pirigueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE).

i

fJO"""'biJY

Lamb chops soubise. CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU souBrsE SOUBISE -- Grill soubise. c6rnlnrrrs or fry the chops. Arrange in a crown. Garnish orfrythe Gamish with with aa fairly fairly tlick thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Lamb Lamb chops cbops Talleyrand. TaUe'VI'and. c6rsrnrrEs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU TALLEvTALLEYRAND Sauté the chops in in butter. butter. Arrange in in a crown. crown. RAND - Saute Garnish Gamish the the middle of the the dish dish with with aa fairly thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Pour Pour over over the the chops chops the followirrg following soubise (see sauce: sauce : In In the the butter butter left left over over in in the the pan, pan, lightly lightly fry diced mushmushrooms rooms and and diced diced truffes. truffies. Dilute Dilute with with sherry sherry and and add thick thick fresh fresh cream. cream. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments moments and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. Lamb Lamb chopo chops à la la Toulouse. Toulouse. cOTELETTES CÔTELETTES o'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A À L.q. LA ToulousEglazn in TOULOUSE - Braise Braise the the chops chops and glaze in the the oven. oyen. Boil Boil down down the the stock stock until until thick thick and and add add to to it it 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Madeira. Madeira. Arrange the the chops chops in in aa slightly slightly raised raised puff puff pastry pastry shell shell (or in in aa circle on on cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter) butter) and and garnish garnish them, them, in in the Ragoût d à la toulousaine toulousaine (see (see RAGOOT). RAGOÛT). the centre, centre, with Ragorfrt Sprinkle Sprinkle the the chops chops with with the the pan pan juices. juices. Put Put paper paper frills frills on end bones. bones. end Lamb Lamb chops chops à la la turque. turque. cdrnr,rrrrs CÔTELETTES o'.c,cNEeu D'AGNEAU A À LA, LA TUReUE TURQUE -- Fry Fry the the chops chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in aa circle circle on aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish the the middle middle of the the dish dish with Rice Rice pilaf pilaf d à la turEte turque (see (see PILAF). PILAF). Dilute Dilute the the pan juices juices with stock and Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se SAUCE), SAUCE), add aa pounded pounded clove c10ve of of garlic garlic and pour pour over over the chops. chops. and Lamb chops chops Villeroi. Villeroi. c6rersrrns CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU vrLLERor VILLEROI Lamb See MUTTON, MUTTON, Mutton Multon chops chops dà h la Villeroi. Villeroi. See Crépinettes of of lamb. 18mb. cnfpNnrrss CRÉPINETTES n'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -- Prepare Prepare like like Cr6pinettes r:n;nit:IPltp~ of ofpork pork (see (see PORK) PORK) using using lamb lamb salpicon salpicon (q.v.). (q.v.). Cripinettes of lamb lamb il la la p6rigourdine. périgourdine. cn6pNrrrss CRÉPINETTES Cr6pinettes of D'AGNEAU A À le LA pfnrcouRDrNE PÉRIGOURDINE - Flatten Flatten and and trim trim 6 6 lamb lamb D'AGNEAU cutlets, season season with with salt and and pepper, pepper, and braise. braise. Allow to cutlets, cool in in the the pan juices. juices. cool Prepare 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) finely finely pounded pounded Pork forcemeat (see Prepare FORCEMEATS), add add to to it it 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) foie gras, and 2 FORCEMEATS), Mix well. weIl. diced truffies. truffies. Mix diced Drain the the chops and and dry them off. Coat on both sides Drain with aa layer layer of of the above above forcemeat. toncenl1eat. Wrap each cutlet in a with thin piece piece of of pig's pig's caul caul or or salt salt pork, pork, making sure that that it it is is thin entirely closed. closed. entirely Brush the the cripinetfes crépinettes with with melted melted butter, butter, coat coat with with breadbreadBrush crumbs, and and cook cook under under aa low low flame. fiame. crumbs, Lamb curry. curry. CARI CARl D'AcNEic,u D'AGNEAU - Follow Follow directions directions for Lamb Curried mutton mutton (see (see MUTTON), MUTION), reducing reducing the the cooking cooking time time Curried slightly to to allow allow for for the the tenderness tende mess of of the the meat. meat. slightly Double of of lamb. lamb. EoUBLE DOUBLE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU -- This This is is aa joint joint comcomDouble prising the the two two legs of of the the animal. animal. You Vou can can either either roast roast or or prising pot-roast it. it. Garnish with with vegetables vegetables and and serve serve with with its own pot-roast gravy, clear c1ear or or thickened, thickened, depending on on vegetable vegetable chosen. chosen. ryavy, Cook for for l8 18 to to 20 20 minutes minutes per 500 g. g. (l (lIb.) 18 minutes minutes lb.) plus l8 Cook at 200"C. 200°C. (400"F., (400°F., Gas Gas Mark 6). at AlI the the garnishes recommended for for the the baron baron are are suitable suitable All for aa double of of lamb. lamb. for Filets mignons mignons of of lamb. lamb. FTLETS FILETS MIcNoNs MIGNONS D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -- Small Fileb pieces of of lean lean meat meat found found on the the bone bone of the the saddle. saddle. In pieces general, these these small small fillets fillets are are left left with with the the big big fillets fiUets of of the the general, saddle when when the the saddle saddle is is boned, boned, but but they they can can also be be prepresaddle pared separately. (See MUTTON, Filets Filets mignons of mutton.) pared Fillets of of lanb (U.S. loin of lanb). FrLErs D'acNEAU - Half Fillets of the the saddle, saddle, boned, rolled rolled and and secured secured with with string. It can can of be roasted, roasted, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or braised. braised. be Ali methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for for loin loin or or shoulder shoulder of All lamb are are applicable. applicable. lamb

Remove separately in Remove the the brains, brains, which which are are cooked cooked separately cour t-bouil lon (q.v.). court-bouillon Cook onions Cook the the 22 halves halves of of the head head in in water water witl with carrots, on ions and celery celery as as a pot-au-feu pot-au-feu (q.v.). (q.v.). (Cooking time time about 2

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hours.) hours.) Drain the head, put it in an ovenproof dish, brush with melted butter and and put put in a very hot hot oven. oyen. Serve with with a white white sauce to which I1 tablespoon chopped and and blanched blanched sage and the diced diced brains have been added. added. Stuffd Stuffed lamb's head head Ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. tErE TÊTE o'^r,cNEq,u D'AGNEAU rencrs FARcœ A À L'ANGLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Scald Scald the lamb's head and remove all ail bones. Fill FiU itit with a stuffing dà l'anglaise, made made of chopped suet and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, well seasoned seasoned and and mixed mixed with forcemeat made made from minced lamb's lamb's liver Iiver and bacon. bacon. Wrap the lamb's Jamb's head in a napkin and secure both ends with string. Brown Brown chopped bacon rinds, carrots and onions in butter in aa braising braising pan. Put in the head. Add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and and a clove. clove. Braise Braise for 30 minutes. Serve with Pascaline Pascaline sauce prepared as as follows: Toss Toss I1 chopped onion in 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter, and moisten with 2 dl. ($ (t pint, scant scant cup) white wine. butter, Boil down and add 3 dl. (+ (t pint, pi nt, lf It cups) white sauce. Bring bind with wi th 2 egg egg yolks and and add add 1 tablespoon to the boil, bind chopped, blanched blanched parsley, parsley, a dash of oflemonjuice pin ch lemon juice and a pinch chopped, of cayenne pepper. ofcayenne Lamb's kidney - See See OFFAL OFF AL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS. Lamb's GIGOT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - The best way to prepare Leg of lamb. crcor [eg of of lamb lamb is is to roast, pot-roast pot-roast or or braise braise it. This joint, when leg This jointo also be be boiled, boiled, according to the English English method. itit isis big, can also Roast, pot-roast pot-roast or boiled leg of lamb can be served with Roast, ail the garnishes gamishes recommended for for leg, leg, baron, double double or all shoulder of of mutton. shoulder see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average For cooking time see cooking times for roasts. roasted or potThe leg of baby or milk-fed lamb is either roasted roasted. roasted. of lamb lamb is served garnished garnished with watercress watercress and Roast leg of quarters quarters of of lemon and and accompanied by its own gravy. It can also be be served, as is customary customary in England, with Mint sauce also (see SAUCE, Cold Cold sauces). sauces). Leg of of lamb A il I'anglaise. l'anglaise. crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU A À r'.lucI.AlsE L'ANGLAISELeg Season a leg of lamb, trim and bone it almost completely. Wrap it in a a napkin, lightly buttered buttered and and sprinkled Wrap sprinkled with fiour. Secure Secure with string. flour. 2 nllJ""."'-JL1. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes Duroc" NoIsETrEs NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU DtrRoc DUROC - Proceed as for Lamb noisettes small noisettes chasseur. chasseur. Garnish Garnish witl with very smal! potato potato balls balls fried in butter. Sprinkle with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Lanb Lamb nofuettes noisettes à I'italienne. NorsETTBs NOISETTES D'AcNBAU D'AGNEAU A À L'ITALENM the noisettes in oil. L'n ALIENNE - Saut6 Sauté the oil. Arrange on on fried cro0tons croûtons and put on each noisette noisette a small smaU slice of lean ham fried fried in oil. oil. Serve with a a sauoe sauce made from from the the pan juices mixed with ltaliut Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb Saut6 Lamb noisettes Melba. Melba. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU MBLBA MELBA - Sauté ttre the noisettes noisettes in butter, arrange on on fried cro0tons, croûtons, garnish with braised lettuce hearts, or with small smaU tomatoes stuffed with a mixture of of chicken, truffies and mushrooms, bound bound with with Veloutd Velouté sauce (see (see SAUCE). Brown Brown in in the the oven oyen or under un der a grill. Serve with a sau@ sauce made from the pan juices mixed with Madeira Madeira and and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU MoNTMONTLamb noisettes Montpensier. NoIsETTEs PENSIER PENSIER - Saute Sauté the noisettes in in butter, butter, arrange on on fried the noisettes crofftons, croûtons, and and garnish with coarsely shredded shredded trufres and asparagus asparagus tips tips both fried fried in in butter. butter. Serve Serve with with a a sauce sauce made from the pan juices juices mixed with Madeira and and Demighce SAUCE). glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Lamb noisettes Nichette. Nichette. NorsETTEi NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU NrcrrETTE NICHETTE Lamb Grill the noisettes noisettes and put each on a cake made of Duchess potato (see (see POTATOES) cooked in the the oven until golden. Garnish Gamish with cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys. Put a grilled grilled mushroom room filled with grated horseradish on top of of each noisette. noisette. Serve Serve with Marrow Marrow sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb noisettes noisettes à la nigoise niçoise I. 1. Norsrrrrs NOISETTES D'aclrslu D'AGNEAU A À r,A LA NtgoIsE NIÇOISE - Saut6 Sauté the noisettes noisettes in oil and garnish dà la nigoise niçoise (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Serve with a sauce made from the pan juices juices diluted with white wine and and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal veal stock. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes à la nigoise niçoise II. Il. NorserrEs NOISETTES p',r.cNreu D'AGNEAU A À la LA NIgoIsE NIÇOISESauté the noisettes noisettes in oil oil and garnish gamish with with small small new - Saut6 potatoes tossed tossed in butter, butter, and and French beans beans in butter. butter. Put Put on

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542

LAMB LAMB

(3t

pieces. Brown in butter l| kg. (3* lb.) boned lamb into pieces. Cut It Season. with a carrot and an onion cut in quarters. Season. and put into a Remove the lamb with aa perforated spoon and Remove the recipe chosen. saut6 pan with the garnish indicated in the sauté juices with 22 dl. pint, scant cup) cup) white dt. (~ Dilute the pan juices $ pint, (i recipe, and and add add 44 dl. dl. (,f on recipe, wine, depending on wine or other wine, wine (6 tablepint, scant 2 cups) thickened brown stock and dl. (6 and 1I dl. pur6e. Strain Strain through fine through aa fine cup) tomato purée. spoons, scant scant t+ cup) spoons, and pour over the the lamb. strainer and (q.v,) and in the and finish cooking in the oven Add aa bouquet garni (q.v.) for 25 minutes with a lid on the pan. L'ANcIENNE o'lcNElu ÀA L'ANCIENNElamb I l'ancienne. I'ancienne. SAUTÉ sAur6 D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lambà Sautéed pieces and in butter. Add Add and sauté Bone and saut6 in and cut the lamb into pieces Bone half and half blanched and 125 g. (4 oz.) lambs' sweetbreads (soaked, blanched (8 oz.) g. (8 lightly 225 g. oz.) small in butter), small mushrooms lightly cooked in butter), 225 (4 oz.) cocks' g. (4 combs and and kidneys, kidneys, 125 g. cocks' combs and 125 tossed in butter, and pan with the pan cooked in a white court-bouillon (q.v.). Moisten with pint, Madeira, to which which scant cup) cup) Madeira, juices diluted with 2 dl. (t t, scant $ pin (see SAUCE) (+ pint, and 22 dl. dl. pint, li Veloutt sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and lf cups) cups) Velouté dl. (1 3 dl. added. have been pint, scant fresh cream cream have been added. cup) thick scant cup) thick fresh (t $ pint, gently for 20 20 minutes. minutes. and strain. simmer Season and strain. Leave to sim Season mer gently cro0tons fried fried in in butter. butter. heart-shaped croûtons Garnish with heart-shaped D'AcNEAU AUX At.rx seurE D'AGNEAU lamb with with artichokes. artichokes. SAUTÉ Sautéed SautH lamb (l+ lb.) g. (It lb.) neck neck or 750 g. or ARrrcHAUrs -- Fry Fry in in butter butter or or oil oil 750 ARTICHAUTS pieces. Season in pieces. Season with with salt salt and cut cut in boned and shoulder shoulder of of lamb, boned and cook cook until until done. done. and and pepper and and cut cut in in hearts, blanched blanched and Decorate with artichoke hearts, Decorate with 44 artichoke in butter and fried fried in butter or or oil. oil. large dice, or or sliced sliced and (6 tablespoons, pan juices with 1I dl. scant + cup) cup) dl. (6 tablespoons, scant Dilute the panjuices pint, scant add 22 dl. dl. $ pint, scant cup) cup) thickened thickened down, add white wine, wine, boil boil down, pour over chopped lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped veal veal stock and pour over the the lamb. stock and parsley. AUx D'AGNEAU AUX Sautéed lamb with aubergines. SAUTÉ s.turf D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb with aubergines. (3* lb.) and trimmed lamb's kg. (Ji lb.) boned boned and trimmed lamb's AUBERGINES AUBERcINEs -- Cut Cut 1ti kg. pepper and pieces. Season until and cook neck and pepper cook until neck into into pieces. Season with with salt salt and proportions. and oil equal proportions. in equal brown mixture of oil in brown in in aa mixture of butter butter and in aa shallow dish. Put Put on on top top When heap in shallow dish. When the lamb isis cooked, cooked, heap the lamb pieces and peeled, cut 33 small in pieces and fried fried in in oil. oil. Mix Mix cut in aubergines, peeled, small aubergines, juices with veal stock the pan juices brown veal stock with white white wine, wine, thickened thickened brown the pan garlic. pinch of pur6e, flavoured and flavoured with with aa pinch of chopped chopped garlic. and tomato tomato purée, pour over Boil lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the lamb. and pour over the Boil down, down, strain, strain, and chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Sautéed agaric. St. George's motels, St. Saut6ed lamb lamb with with cèpes, cipes, morels, George's agaric. SAUTÉ - Cook D'AGNEAUX AUX MoRILLES, MOUSSERONS MoussERoNsCook slur6 D'AGNEAUX lux CÈPES, ciirrs, MORILLES, the recipe for for sautéed sautied /amb lamb with with lamb as as described in the the recipe the lamb described in (8 oz.) g. (8 aubergines, aubergines by 250 g. cipes, aubergines, replacing replacing the by 250 oz.) cèpes, the aubergines morels agarics, fried fried in in butter butter or or oil. oil. morels or or St. St. George's George's agarics, Sautéed D'AGNEAU CHASSEUR Prolamb chasseur. chasseur. SAUTÉ SAUTE D'AGNEAU CHASSEUR -- ProSaut6ed lamb ceed given for recipe given for Sautéed Sautied veal veal ceed as as described described in in the the recipe chasseur (see VEAL). chasseur (see VEAL). Sautéed D'AcNEAU ÀA LA r,c, CRÈME cRtME -Saut6ed lamb lamb àI la la crème. cr&me. SAUTÉ sAure D'AGNEAU Bone pieces.Season and lamb into into pieces. Season with with salt salt and Bone and and cut cut the the lamb paprika paprika and and fry fry in in butter. butter. juices with Heap pan juices Dilute the with 21 2f dl. Heap on dish. Dilute the pan dl. on aa shallow shallow dish. (scant (scant tI pint, pint, generous generous cup) Boil down down by by one-third, one-third, cup) cream. cream. Boil i cup) add pour over (2 oz., g. (2 and pour lamb. add 50 strain, and over the the lamb. 50 g. oz.,* cup) butter, butter, strain, Sautéed D'AGNEAU AUX ALrxFINES FINES lamb aux herbes. SAUTÉ slur6 D'AGNEAU Sautffi lamb aux fines fines herbes. HERBES in the recipefor for Sautéed HERBEs -- Proceed as described Sautied Proceed as described in the recipe lambs (see below), adding to lambs àd la below), adding to the the sauce sauce 1I tabletablela minute minute (see spoon and 22 tablespoons tablespoons) chopped shallots shallots and tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) spoon chopped of parsley, chervil and tarragon. mixture of chervil and tarragon. of aa mixture of chopped chopped parsley, Sautéed D'AcNEAU ÀAL'INDIENNEI'INDENIIE lamb ài l'indienne. I'indienne. SAUTÉ slurf D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb Proceed l'inin the recipe for for Sautéed Sautied veal veal àd l'inProceed as as described described in the recipe dienne (see VEAL) dienne (see VEAL).. Sautéed I'itaHenne. SAUTÉ o'lcNreu ÀAL'ITALIENNEL'ITALIENNE Saut6ed lamb lamb àI l'italienne. slurf D'AGNEAU Proceed lamb àd lala recipefor for Sautéed Proceed as as described in the the recipe Santiedlamb described in minute (see below). pan juices with withwhite wine and and Dilute the whitewine minute (see below). Dilute the panjuices Italian (see SAUCE) Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE)..

dictionary, gives gives for the preparation of Pascaline Pascaline of lamb the the following following recipe, recipe, different different from that that given given by Plumerey: Plumerey: of lamb ià la royale. pAscALINE PASCALINE o'AcNreu D'AGNEAU A À L.l, LA Pascaline of Pascalire RoyALE ROY ALE - 'The custom of serving a lamb whole whole on on Easter Easter until the the time of Louis XVI. Sunday was kept in France until is how how the the dish dish was was prepared: prepared : This is This 'The of a six-month-old six-month-old lamb lamb was boned, the breast breast 'The neck of through and and the the shoulder shoulder bone bone broken broken and bone sawn sawn through bone of the legs were also trussed to to the the breast. breast. The The 2 shank shank bones of trussed sa me manner. broken and and fastened in the same broken 'It was stuffed with a forcemeat of pounded lamb, lamb, yolks hard-boiled eggs, eggs, stale fines chopped fnes of hard-boiled stale breadcrumbs and chopped seasoned with with 4 spices. spices. herbes, and seasoned herbes, fiesh was carefully larded and put to roast before a 'The flesh big fire. It was served whole, as as a separate course, after the a ragoût a green green sauce ragofrt of truffi.es truffies sauce or on on a soup, either with a ham jelly.' cooked in ham Pâté of of lamb lamb tà la perigourdine périgourdine -- See P0t6 PATE. See PÂTÉ. p'r,cNEitu A la languedocienne. ToURTE TOURTE D'AGNEAU À LA pie Ià la Ll Lamb pie LANGUEDOCIENNE -- Puff Puff pastry pastry pie with with a fiJling filling of of smalliamb small lamb LANGUEDocTrNNE noisettes sautéed noisettes saut6ed in butter; salsify cooked in Court-bouillon IX (see COURT-BOUILLON), cut into pieces and tossed tossed in IX(see butter; sliced mushrooms; and blanched olives. olives. Put mushrooms; stoned stoned and these ingredients into a pastryJined pastry-lined dish on a layer of finely finely these (see FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see pounded Pork forcemeat with a FORCEMEAT). Dot with few dabs of butter. Cover with aa piece of rolled-out pastry, egg and 45 minutes. and bake in the oven oven for for 40 40 or 45 brush with egg Pour into the pie aa few tablespoons of boiled down Demiboiled down glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE), fiavoured glace flavoured with Madeira. Lamb pilaf. PILAF like Mutton Mutton pilaf Prepared like rner D'AGNEAU -- Prepared PILAF). (see PILAF). Lamb's pluck -- See AL or V ARIETY MEATS. OFFAL VARIETY See OFF Lamb parts which D'AcNEAU -- The The parts are ragoOt. RAGOÛT which are n^lco0r D'AGNEAU Lamb ragoût. most suitable ribs, neck, shoulder and and are lower ribs, suitable for this dish are breast. breast. Ragoût (A A BLANC nrlxc (À I'anglaise. RAGOÛT RAc,otT D'AGNEAU À Ragofft of lamb à i l'anglaise. L'ANGLAISE) g. pan, in layers, 750 750 g. r',lNcrusr) -- Put Put into into aa pan, in alternate alternate layers, 01 (l+ lb.) pieces and medium-sized sliced lb.) lamb lamb cut in pieces and 33 medium-sized sliced cut in potatoes mixed potatoes onions.. chopped onions mixed with medium-sized chopped with 22 medium-sized Season, gorni (q.v.). (q.v.). Pour in enough water water Season, and add aa bouquet bouquet garni or light fairly briskly with aa light stock to cover the meat. Cook Cook fairly the meat. lid lid on on the pan. Heap in aa deep parsley. and sprinkle chopped parsley. deep dish dish and sprinkle with chopped Ragoût o'lcxeau ÀA LA la bonne RAcofr D'AGNEAU rA, bonne femme. femme. RAGOÛT Ragofit of lamb àI la BONNE g. (l* lb.) lb.) lamb lamb in in clarified clarified fat, fat, BoNNE FEMME FEMME -- Brown Brown 750 750 g. and pinch of and aa pinch sugar. Sprinkle Sprinkle of sugar. and season season with salt, salt, pepper and with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) lightly. flour and and brown brown lightly. tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour Moisten with if litre O~ (l$ pints, pints, li lt pints) water, water, add add aa bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.) and garlic. clove of of garlic. and 1 crushed clove I crushed Cook with aa lid on Drain the lamb, for 40 40 minutes. minutes. Drain the lamb, on the the pan for trim, pan. pieces back in the back in and put the the pan. trim, and the pieces Add 500 (18 oz., potato balls and 12 12 small g. (18 cups) small 500 g. o2.,33 cups) balls and small small potato onions pan for lid on for lightly fried in in butter. with aa lid on the the pan onions lightly butter. Cook Cook witb 40 (3 tablespoons) 40 to 45 minutes. minutes. 22 tablespoons tablespoons) tomato tomato to 45 tablespoons (3 sauce can he be added. added. sauce can Ali (q.v.) can given for ragofrts given for mutton mutton (q.v.) can he be used used for for All the the ragoûts lamb. lamb. Rib (U.S.) -- See lamb. roast of lamb (U.S.) Loin of of lamb. Rib roast of lamb Se Loin Saddle le of o'.l,cNEeu -- The The sadd lamb can can of lamb, SELLE snLLE D'AGNEAU saddle of lamb Saddle oflamb. be prepared by pot-roasting or like Saddle Saddle be prepared roasting, pot-roasting or braising, braising, like by roasting, of (see MUTTON). garnishes recommended recommended mutton (see All the the garnishes of mutton MUTTON). Ali for for mutton mutton can applied to to it. it. can he be applied The roasted or either roasted or milk-fed lamb lamb isis either The saddle saddle of baby or or milk-fed of baby pot-roasted. le usually pot-roasted. This remains attached attached to to two two This sadd usually remains saddle legs joint known known as as the legs of the animal, animal, which which constitutes constitutes the the joint the of the baron baron of lamb. of lamb. Sautéed D'AcNEAU -- Prepared Prepared from from the Saut6ed lamb. lamb. SAUTÉ s.lur6 D'AGNEAU the same same parts parts of are used for ragoûts. ragofits. of the the animal animal as as are used for


l*

(3* (31 lb.) lb.) boned lower ribs ribs or or shoulder shoulder of lamb. Brown Brown in

butter. butter. As soon saon as the the lamb lamb is well weil browned, browned, add 22 chopped Sprinkle onions. Season Season with salt salt and I1 tablespoon paprika. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) flour. flour. Moisten with 2 dl. ($ (! pint, scant seant cup) white white wine. Boil down, and then add 3 dl. (f (t pint, pint, l| Il cups) cups) white stock, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tabJespoons) bouquel garni gami (q.v.). (q.v,). Cook Cook with a lid on tomato pur6e, and a bouquet of lamb out with a tue pieces of the pan for 30 minutes. Take the nPT·rnT·I~,rI spoon, and put put them in a pan with 250 g. g. (8 oz.) perforated mushrooms mushrooms which which have have been been sliced sliced and and lightly tossed tossed in butter. Add Add fresh fresh crfflm cream seasoned with paprika paprika to the sauce sauce left in the the first pan. pan. Boil down, strain, slrain, and and pour over the lamb. Simmer gently with a lid on the Ihe pan for 25 minutes. Saut6ed SAUTÉ D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU pARMENTTER PARMENTIER Sllutéed lamb Parmentier. s.lur6 Cook Cook the meat meat and and sauce sauce as as described descdbed in in the the recipe for Sautied Sauléed lamb with with aubergines, replacing replacîng the aubergines aubergines with 44 diced diced potatoes fried fried in butter butter or or oil. oi]. 10mb à la la printaniCre. printanière. slurf SAUTÉ n'lcNnlu n'AGNEAU A À L.n LA Saut6ed lamb pnnraNtinr PRINTAN1ÈRE - Proceed as in the recipe for Sautded Sautéed veal dà la printaniire prinlanière (see VEAL). Sautéed lamb lamb with with tomatoes. tomatoes. slurf SAUTÉ D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU AUx AUX Saut6ed ToMATBS TOMATES - Proceed Proceed as as described in the the recipe for Sautied Sautéed lamb lamb with wilh artichokes, Grtichokes, replacing replaclng the the artichokes anichokes by 8 small peeled, seeded cookOO in butter or oil. ail. A grated seeded tomatoes, tomatoes, cooked clove of garlic can be he added. added. Shoulder of of lamb. Illmb. 6pe,urn ÉPAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -- All AU the recipes given for Shoulder of of mutton multon (see (see MUTTON) are applicable "IJIJ,,~.a.UlÇ to for Shoulder shoulders of of ordinary lamb. lamb. They can be be boned and stuffed before before cooking. Shoulders of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb and and Pauillac lamb lamb should he boned. boned. These are should not not be are grilled grilled or roasted, roasted, and and served with with various various garnishes. garnishes. Shoulder Shoulder of of lamb 18mb à I'albigeoise. fplurn ÉPAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A A L'ALBlcEoIsE. L'ALBIGEOISE. Bone Bone the the shoulder and stuff with forcemeat forcemeat made of sausage meat meat and minced pig's liver Iiver in equal propromade of portions, portions, flavoured ftavoured with with chopped garlic and parsley, parsJey, and well weil seasoned. seasoned. Roll Roll the the shoulder shoulder and secure secure with with string. string. Fry it it lightly lightly until until golden in in sizzling sizzling goose goose fat fat in in an eafthenware casserole. Srirround with quartered potatoes potatoes or whole new potatoes, fJV 1.'" 'LI'-", and 12lightly 12lightly blanched bJanched cloves cloves of of garlic. gadie. Season, liule goose goose fat and and cook cook in the the oven. aven. Season, sprinkle with wÎth a little ît Sprînkle with with chopped parsley. parsley, Serve Serve in in the the dish dish in in which which it Sprinkle was was cooked. of lamb à la boulang&re. tplur,n ÉPAULE D'AGNE.Lu D'AGNEAU A À ul LA Shoulder of Shoulder BoULANciRE BOULANGËRE - Bone Bone the the shoulder, season it il on the the inside, imide, roll, roll, and and secure secure with wîth string. string. Cook Cook for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in an earthenware in which whîch 3 to to 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons earthenware fireproof fireproof dish dish in butter butter have have been heen heated. heated. Surround Surround with with 3 sliced or quartered large potatoes and 3 onions, finely finely chopped chopped and and lightly Iightly fried fried in in butter. Season Season the the onions, garnish, garnish, sprinkle with the the butter butter left left over in in the the pan pan and and finish in the the oven, basting frequently. Just Just before before finish cooking in serving add add 4 tablespoons tab1espoons (* cup) thickened brown stock. stock. serving

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ÉPAULE fplurE

D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU snnlsfg BRA1SÉE -- Bone Bone a shoulder shoulder of of lamb. Season Season inside. inside,

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LAMPREY

Lamb on skewers Carrier) Lamb skewers or brochettes (Robert Carrier)

L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE - Line a Charlotte Charlotte mould with pie pastry. Put in

(see SOUPS tapioca cooked in it to to aa pur6e purée of fresh fresh peas peas (see tapioca Potage Lamballe). Lamballe). AND BROTHS, Potage

sweetbreads sweetbreads cooked in butter, and truffies and and mushrooms,

LAMBICK -- Highly intoxicating Belgian beer, beer, rather sour LAMBICK

Timbale of of lamb lamb ir à I'ancienne. l'ancienne. TIMBALE D'AGNEAU Timbale TIMBALE D'AGNslu

A À

it small lamb noisettes braised in court-bouillon (q.v.),lamb (q.v.), lamb

in taste. (See BEER.) BEER.)

all with Velouté Velouti sauce al! blended blended with sauce (see (see SAUCE) diluted with

LA MOTHE.SAINT-HERAYE MOTHE-SAINT-HÉRA YE -_ See LA SCE CHEESE. CHEESE.

cream Madeira. Alternate Alternate with layers of cream and flavoured with Madeira.

macaroni cooked in water and and blended with cream, butter and and grated cheese. cheese. These fillings must must be be completely completely cold before being put into into the the pie pie dish. dish. Cover Coyer the the dish dish with a pastry lid and decorate the top with pastry leaves. Ieaves. Make Make an opening to allow steam to escape and brush brush over over with beaten beaten egg. Bake Bake in a hot oven oyen for q 40 b to 45 minutes. Before serving, serving, pour pour into the pie through the opening, a few tablespoons of the Velouté Veloutd sauce. the sauce. Lamb's trotters (feeQ. (feet). pIEDs PIEDS D'AGNEAU - These These are are prepared as VARIETY as Sheep's trotters trotters (feet) (jeet) (see OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Vol-au-vent of lamb with tnffes truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms 1. VOLI. vorAU-VENT D'AGNEAU AUx AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES ET ET cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Fill Fili a vol-au-vent soon as as it it is is out of the the oven, oyen, with with a vol-au-vent case, case, as as soon ragofrt sweetbreads ragoût of braised thin noisettes of lamb, lamb sweetbreads cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and sliced truffies truffies and and mushrooms, all ail moistened with white brown thickened stock. white or brown Vol-au-vent of lamb with ftufles truffles and mushrooms mushrooms II. n. vorVOLAU-vENT TRUFFES ET cHAMpIGNoNs AU-VENT D'AGNEAU Aux AUX TRUFFES CHAMPIGNONS - Prepare Prepare a vol-au-venl vol-au-vent case in the usual usual way. As soon as as it is removed removed from fil! with with a a ragofit ragoût of of lamb lamb sweetbreads sweetbreads from the the oven, oyen, fill braised in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), with trufres truffies and mushrooms mushrooms braised added, added, the whole blended blended with a piping hot Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

LAMPROIE - There three types types of edible LAMPREY. LAMrRoIE There are are three lamprey: the or sea-lamprey, sea-lamprey, the lamprey: the lampern larnpern or the lamprey-eel or

proper. river lamprey lamprey and the lamprey proper. The found in the Atlantic and the MediterThe lamprey-eel found and the ranean is higbly prized. prized. It is is similar to the eel in is the most highly general appearance, appearance, but but different from from it in in aa number of yellowish with brown markings, its dorsal details: its skin is yellowish fins are are spaced spaced along along its its back, back, and fins has seven and it has seven bronchial which form form two two vertical lines on either side side of its orifices which neck. In In spring, the lamprey-eels migrate migrate to to the the mouths mouths of spring, the rivers. rivers. They They are to be found in large numbers numbers in the Loire, Loire, the Rhône Gironde. Rh6ne and the Gironde. of the lamprey lamprey is delicate delicate but, being being very very fatty, it The flesh of is somewhat indigestible. indigestible. Lampreys of medium size are the most sought after, especially those caught in the mouths of rivers. so that that the the skin skin can be easily removed. Scald the the fish fish so Scald can be tbe manner in which it is to be cooked, cut it According to the into thick slices or leave it whole. Prepare according to the selected recipe. recipe. The lamprey can be cooked cooked in aa great great many many different different ways. The lamprey commonly it is stewed in wine (en matelote) flavoured flavoured Most commonly of the fish. All Ali recipes for eel (q.v.) (q .v.) are are suitable with the blood blood of with lamprey. for lamprey. Bordelaise (Bordearx (Bordeaux cookery). r,lupnon LAMPROIE A À Lamprey Ià la Bordelaise Lamprey BORDELAISE - Bleed Bleed a a medium-sized lamprey. lamprey. Keep the LA BoRDELAIsp

LAMBALLE -- Name given to various various dishes. It is usually LAMBALLE applied by adding consommé with wi th a pplied to a meat broth made by adding consomm6 545

LAMPSANA LAMPSANA blood blood aside to to flavour flavour the the sauce. sauce. Scald the fish and scrape off the the skin. Remove Remove the central central nerve. (To (To do this, this, cut off the tip tip of of the the lamprey's lamprey's tail, make an incision round the neck neck below the gills gills and, through through this opening, catch hold of of the below the nerve nerve and and pull puil it it out.) Cut Cut the the fish fish into into slices slices 55 crn. cm. (2 inches) inches) thick. Butter Butter a pan and and line line itit with with sliced sliced onions onions and carrots. carrots. Put Put in the slices slices of lamprey. lamprey. Place Place aa bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.\ (q.v.) and a clove of of garlic garlic in the the middle middle of of the the dish. dish. Season Season with salt salt and pepper. pepper. Moisten with with enough enough red red wine wine to to cover coyer the the fish. Boil for 12 minutes. Cook white leek Cook 12 12 slices slices of ofwhite leek with with 4 tablespoons tablespoons (l (t cup) cup) raw diced diced bacon bacon in butter butter in aa covered pan. Drain the slices of lamprey lamprey and and put put them them in in aa pan, pan, alternating alternating with the the slices slices of white white leek. leek. Make Make a roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) of of flour flour and butter. Moisten with with the the cooking cooking stock stock of of the the lamprey. lamprey. Cook Cook this sauce sauce for I155 minutes, minutes, strain, and and pour pour over over the the lamprey. lamprey. Simmer very slowly slowly until until the the fish fish is is cooked. cooked. Arrange Arrange the the fish on a serving serving dish and pour pour over over itit the the sauce sauce mixed mixed with with some sorne of of the the blood. blood. dish and Garnish Gamish with with slices slices of of bread bread fried fried in butter. butter.

LAMPSANA" LAMPSAN~ NIPPLEWORT. NIPPLEWORT.

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LAMrSANE LAMPSANE - Plant of the

endive endive family, family, similar similar to to the the sow-thistle. sow-thistle. Its Its leaves leaves are eaten raw raw in in salad. salado Cooking Cooking turns turns them them bitter. bitter. Ambialet, Tarn Tarn (French (French Governnent Governmenl Tourist Tourisloffice) Ambialet, ofice)

LANGUE-DE-CHAT LANGUE-DE-CHAT (Cat's (Cat's tongue) tongue) -- In In the the view of of some sorne experts, name from its its shape -- thin, thin, experts, this this biscuit biscuit derives derives its its name

recognisable. ln In this this province, province, which which was was called recognisable. called Gallia

flat flat and and narrow, narrow, somewhat somewhat like like aa cat's cat's tongue tongue in in appearance. appearance. Langues-de-chat, which are crisp, crisp, dry dry biscuits, biscuits, can can be be made made Langues-de-chat,whichare and and flavoured flavoured in in various various ways. ways. Only Only biscuits biscuits made made according according to to one one of of the the recipes recipes given given below, below, however, however, can can properly properly be be called lqngues-de-chat. langues-de-chat. called These These keep keep for for a a long long time time and and are are served served with some sorne liqueurs liqueurs and and sparkling sparkling wines. wines. They They are are also also served served with with iced iced and used used as as an an ingredient ingredient of various various sweets (desserts) (desserts) and sweets puddings. puddings. Langue-de-chat 1 - Work Work together, together, in in aa bowl, bowl, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., Langue-de-chat cups) fine fine sugar sugar and 2t 21 dl. dl. (scant (scant 1 pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) 22 cups) fresh cream. cream. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, I1 fresh tablespoon vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured fine fine sugar, sugar, and, and, when when the the tablespoon mixture isis quite quite smooth, smooth, 55 stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten egg egg whites. whites. mixture Rub aa metal metal baking baking sheet sheet with with pure pure w{D( wax or or line line with with heavy heavy Rub paper and, and, using using aa forcing-bag forcing-bag with with aa round round nozzle, waxed paper waxed the mixture mixture to to make make little little strips strips about about 4 2i cm..(l (1 inch) inch) pipe the pipe apart, so so that that they they will will not not run run into into one one another another during during apart, baking. baking. Bakein in aa hot hot oven oyen for for about about 88 minutes. minutes. Bake Langue-de-chat IIfi -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 125 125 g. g. @l (41 oz., oz., generous generous 1 Langue-dechat cup) butter, butter, 125 125 g. g. (4 (41 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sieved sieved flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. cup) (4 (4 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., + cup) cup) vanillavan illaflavoured fine fine sugar,2 sugar, 2 eggs. eggs. flavoured Cream the the butter butter in in aa warmed warmed bowl. bowl. Add Add the the Method. Cream Method. sugar and and vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. sugar. Work Work the the mixture mixture for for 22 sugar and mix mix in in the the eggs, eggs, one one at at aa time. time. Add Add the the sieved sieved minutes, and minutes, flour. flour. onto aa baking baking sheet sheet as as indicated indicated above. above. Pipe this this mixture mixture onto Pipe

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Narbonensis under the Romans, was invented the ragoût Narbonensis ragofit of was the the prototype of that mutton with white beans which was robust dish known as as cassoulet. cassoulet. robust The Languedoc Languedoc larder larder is is well weIl stocked. stocked. In In the the southThe western provinces of of France are to be be found excellent excellent meat, meat, western poultry, and good winged and ground game. The succulent poultry, finest foie foie gras gras is made in this region from goose and· finest and duck and their their indispensable foil, foil, the the truffie, truffie, the the 'subterliver and ranean empress' empress' as as it was called by by the the Marquis de de Cussy. Cussy. ranean To these these delicacies delicacies must be be added excellent saltwater and To freshwater fish. fish. Among the latter latter are the the trout of the the icy freshwater Pyrenean streams, streams, the the perch, bream, tench, tench, pike, etc., etc., which which Pyrenean are found found in abundance in the Garonne, Garonne, Aridge, Ariège, Tarn and are Aude rivers. rivers. Aude The Languedoc Languedoc kitchen kitchen gardens are are well weil stocked stocked with The and the the orchards orchards with delicious delicious fruit. Languedoc vegetables and vegetables also has has its its vineyards vineyards and produces produces excellent excellent wine. also With such such natural natura! resources, resources, it is is no Culinary specialities specialities -- With Qnlinsry wonderthat the caisine cuisine of of Languedoc Languedoc is is excellent excellent and and that that the the wonder that the large number number of of succulent succulent specialities. specialities. region has has aa large region Here, first, first, are are some sorne typical typical Languedoc Languedoc broths broths and and soups: soups: Here, Pot-au-feu dà la la poulefarcre poulefarcie (stuffed chicken chicken hotpot); hotpot); soup soup au au Pot-au-feu farci; pot-au-fat pot-au-feu ahigeois albigeois (with (wi th stuffed stuffed goose gooseneck); pot-auneck); pot-aufarci; feu carcassonnais carcassonnais (with ribs of of beef, beef, neck neck of of mutton, lean lean fan bacon, stuffed stuffed cabbage cabbage and and white white beans); beans); ouillade ouillade catalan; catalan; bacon, (Rousbraou boufat bouffat de de Cerdagne; boullinade boul/inade des des pAcheurs pêcheurs (Rousbraou sillon); bouillabaisse bouillabaisse Catalane Catalane (which (which is is nothing nothing like like the the sillon); bouillabaisse of of Marseille'1; Marseille); soupe soupe aux aux poissons de Site Sète (fish poissons de bouillabaisse soup); soupe soupe aux aux clovisses clovisses (cockle (cockle soup); soup); soupe soupe dà l'ail l'ail (garlic soup); soup); soupe soupe dà Ia la courge courge (pumpkin (pumpkin soup); soup); soupe soupe aux aux choux choux soup); soup); soupe soupe oux aux tomates tomates (tomato (tomato soup); soup); tourin; tour in ; (cabbage soup); (cabbage and succulent succulent garbure. garbure. and Among the the hors-d'ouvre hors-d'œuvre of of the the area area are: Black Mountain Mountain Among are; Black and Aridge Ariège ham; ham; sausages sausages from from Luchon, Luchon, Toulouse, Toulouse, the the and Black Mountain Mountain and and Aridge; Ariège; frittons frittons or or grattons grattons of of pork, pork, Black goose and and turkey; turkey; dried dried ftche fiche with with radishes radishes from from Tarn; Tarn; goose melsat from from Dourgne; Dourgne; Ianguettes languettes (little (little tongues) tongues) from from Tarn; Tarn; melsat anchovy pdti pâté from from Collioure; Collioure; little !ittle pdtis pâtés of of P6zenas Pézenas or or anchovy Béziers (which (which are are also also eaten eaten as as aa dessert); dessert); anchoiade; an cho iade ; fresh B6ziers fresh la croque-au-sel; croque-au-sel; fresh fresh figs. figs. white beans beans dà la white Among the the special special egg egg dishes dishes of ofLanguedoc Languedoc are: are: Omelettes Omelettes Among la cansaldo; cansaldo; omelettes omelettes with with ham, ham, blood, blood, wild wild asparagus asparagus tips, tips, dà Ia hop shoots shoots (called (called omelette omelelle dà la la Saint-Jean), Saint-Jean), agaric, agaric, peppers, peppers, hop

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LANGUEDOC, ROUSSILLON, ROUSSILLON, COMTE COMTÉ DE DE FOD( FOIX LANGUEDOC, The land land of ofOc Oc (Languedoc) (Languedoc) isis aa district district which which for for centuries centuries The has had had aa tradition tradition of of fine fine cooking. cooking. Its Its people people have have always always has connoisseurs of of good good food. food. Not Not only only have have they they proprobeen connoisseurs been vided substantial substantial dishes dishes in in abundance, abundance, such such as as the the famous famous vided cassoulet (q.v.) (q.v.) of of Castelnaudary Castelnaudary and and the the daube daube languelanguecassoulet but also also subtly subtly flavoured flavoured and and delicate delicate appetisers appetisers docienne, but docienne, suchas as the thepdti pâté defoie defoie gras gras with with truffies, truffies, gem gem of ofthe the LangueLanguesuch docculinary culinary repertoire, repertoire, which which has has made made famous famous throughout throughout doc the world world the the names names of of Toulouse, Toulouse, Cazdres, Cazères, Albi Albi and and other other the citieswhere wherefor for so so long long these these delicacies delicacieshave have been been made. made. cities In Languedoc, Languedoc, the the Roman Roman and and Arab Arab influences influences which which In gradually determined determined the the character character of of its its cooking cooking are are still still gradually 546 s46

LANGUEDOC with olives; head with lamb's sweetbread pie with with salsify; calf s head sweetbread pie calf s brain en calfs m papillote; veal kidneys d la catalane. agaric, salsify, poultry pie pie .with with agaric, Fricassée of Fricasste of chicken; chicken; poultry truffied capon; capon; stuffed chicken.. chicken; truffled mushrooms and truffles.. truffies; stuffed mushrooms and (stuffed with with sa sausage, olives, la carcassonnaise (stuffed usage, olives, capon capon àd la chicken livers, the neck stuffed with garlic bread, roasted on turkey with with olives olives;.. truffied young turkey; young turkey the the spit); spit); truffled of duck; pigeon àd duck with olives; salmi of duck àd la bigarade; duck goose in blood; blood; go ose with la la catalane; compte of of pigeon; pigeon in salmi of gainea fowl ; chestnuts; ragofit of goose with celery ;'salmiofguineafowl; goose; sanguette of chicken chicken;; a/icuit aliait of chicken, turkey and goose; or sailAed with garlic and olives, or turkey turkey livers with with capers, olives, trufies, capers, grapes truffles, duck or goose with capers, lemon; foie gras of lemon; foie of duck wine, in pies, pies, charcoal-grilled, potted; Toulouse, Frontignan wine, Cazères pâtés de foie foie gras with truffies;. pickled and Luchon Luchon pdtds Cazdres and goose and duck; partrrdge la catalane; salmi of partridge; goose partridge àd la

pine pine kernels, garlic, tomatoes and Quercy poached or Quercy truffies; poached

poached or fried eggs with ham, tomatoes, aubergines, garlic; poached cansalado, fried eggs àd la cansalado. fried are made made from saltwater and The following dishes are and freshwater fish, kinds, snails and frogs: all kinds, water fish, shellfish of ail frogs: Cod àd snails and I'ailloli; ragoût ragofit of cod à d la h carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; cod of cod cod à d la persillade l'ailloli; (with parsley); parsley); brandade of cod; cod; cod bouillabaisse; shad à (with d on the spit ;. lamprey en la persilhde; persillade .. stuffed shad on en matelote; matelote; tunny (tuna) fish catalane, with with olives olives or fricandeau of tunny fish àd la catalane, fricandeau (tuna) àd la palavasienne; river tunny (tuna) iver with anchovy; chopped tunny meuniire; river trout in court-bouillon; court-bouillon; small small fry trout àd la meunière; fry in court-bouillon; Eel àd la catalane; elver court-bouillon; fry; pike on elver fry; on the spit; matelotes of various freshwater civet of spiny sptny lobster freshwater fuh; fish; civet matelotes (Roussillon) ; freshwater crayfish in in court-bouillon; court-bouillon; mussels mussels (Roussillon); freshwater crayfish la ravigote; ravigote; mussels mussels àd la la catalane; catalane; mussels mussels with with rice; àd la cockles àd la la persillade; snails àd la la languedocienne, àd la persillade; snails cockles sommeroise; mourguettes mourguettes àd lodivoise, àd la narbonnaise, àd la sommeroise; lodévoise, h meridionale; meridiotule; frogs la frogs legs àd la persillade. Here are meat, poultry and game dishes of Here poultry and are sorne the meat, some of the d l'albigeoise, l'albigeoise, à d la carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; Languedoc: Daube ofbeef of beef à Languedoc: of estouffat estouffat of of beef beef àd la catalane; veal slices with agaric; roll of ragofit of of veal with olives; olives ; veal en persillade; ragoût m papillote; veal en persillade; veal with with sa salsify; ls ify ; pistache of mutton; gasconchump end of veal salsify; ragofit of of mutton; braised of mutton with sais nadc of ify ; ragoût nade braised leg of of with white beans; beans; leg of of mutton with garlic; Luchon mutton with lamb àd la Ia persillade; salted ewe persillade; blanewe;.. Toulouse Toulovse quarter of lamb quette of lamb; cutlets of milk-fed lamb leg of lamb en m culotte; leg quette ribs of pork lamb with with agaric; galimaufry of pork; lamb pork; ribs pork àd la persillade; ribs Iumbet of pork with ribs of pork en en papillotes; lumbet potatoes, cassoulets from Carcassonne, Carcassonne, Castelnaudary and Toulouse; estoufat of white white beans beans from from Carcassonne; sucking pig with saupiquet ariigeois (with white beans); beans); roast sucking piglet skins; I'albigeoise; tripe lripe àd la mode mode narbonnaise; narbonnaise; skins; tripe àd l'albigeoise; (H6rault); manouis (Hérault); (H6rault); tripe "vith with saffron; sffion; cabassols (Hérault); cabassols petarran Luchon; lamb's lamb's pluck la languedocienne; pluck àd la petarram of of Luchon;

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..-lr.-:;i:NV', HTE: gAR'oN:N.E;:l:.#lid,"m'toc" ".::::' ".--:,!:: -p l/^"-,*$]StEX; ii"' ..0.'. . *;il, (+EAaVLT .19,1"1bi)rurat - "qilea:ifi;.,{r:#edr",S*'-"^N-\ ",ni (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Cook Cook in in front from of a very hot hot fire, basting frequently. A A lobster Jobster weighing 1t kg. kg. (about (about 33 lb.) lb.) needs to to be cooked for 40 to to 45 minutes. Remove Remove the the lobster lobster from from the the spit and arrange on a long dish. dish. Serve with with the the juice collected in in the the dripping pan. Lobster Lobster on on the the spit can can be he served with with spicy sauces such as as Biarnaise, Béarnaise, Curuy, Curry, Ravigote Ravigole (see (see SAUCE). ...,,,,'--"'.......... ,. Lobster Lobster thermidor. thermido:r. HoMARD HOMARD rrrERMrEoR THERMIDOR -- Split Split aa lobster lobster in in two, [WO, lengthwise. Iengthwise. Crack Crack the the shell sheH of of the the claws c1aws and and pick out the the meat. meaL Season Season both both halves halves of of the the lobster lobster with with salt. pour Pour oil oil over over them them and and roast roast in in the the oven oven for for 15 15 to to 20 20 minutes. minules. Dice white wine, Dice the the flesh. flesh. Make Make aa stock stock of ofwhite wine, frshfumet tîshfume/ and meat meat juices, juices, flavoured flavoured with wilh chervil, chervil, tarragon tarragon and and chopped chopped shallots. shallots. Boil Boil itit down down to ta a a concentrated concentrated consistency. Add Add to tO this thîs aa little liHle very very thick thick Bichamel Bechamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and some some English English mustard. mustard. Boil Boil the the sauce sauce for for a a few few seconds, seconds, then then whisk whisk in in fresh fresh butter butter (one-third (one-third of of the the volume volume of of the the sauce). sauce). Line Line the the two two halves ha Ives of ofthe the carcase carcase with with aa little little of ofthis this sauce. sauce. Fill Fil! them them with with the the flesh ftesh of ofthe the lobster, la bster, coverwith cover wi th the the remainder remainder of ofthe the sauce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with wilh grated grated Parmesan Parmesan and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown quickly quickly in in the the oven. oven. (This (This is is the the recipe recipe for for lobster lobster thermidor thermidor given to us by M. M. Tony Tony Girod, Girod, for for many years master master chef of the famous Parisian Parisian restaurant, restaurant, the the Cafi de de Paris.) Paris.) This prepared in aa different This dish dish isis often oft enin different way. way. The The tail tail of of the the lobster lobsterisis split splitinin half and grilled, grilled, then then the the flesh flesh isis cut cut into into thick thick slices slices and and put put back back in in the the shells, sheHs, which which have have been been

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SPINY LOBSTER). Lobster Lobster pilaf. pilaf. rn.,u PILAF DE DE HoMARD HOMARD -- Coarsely Coarsely dice dice the the flesh ftesh of of boiled boiled lobsters lobsters or or cut cut it it into into pieces. pieces. Brown Brown lightly lightly in in

butter. butter. Line Line aa domed domed mould mould with with Rrce Rice pilaf pilaf (sw (see PILAF), PILAF), and and fill fiJi with with the the lobster. lobster. Tum Turn out out the the mould mould on on aa serving serving dish. dish. Surround Surround with with Lobster Lobs/eT sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or or any any other other sauce sauce suitable suitable for for shellfish. shellfish. Lobster Lobster risotto. risotto. Rrsorro RISOTTO DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Proceed Proceed as as for for Inbster Lobs/erpilaf. pilaf Fill FiH aa ring ring mould mou Id with with risotto. risotto. Turn Turn itit out, out, and and heap heap pieces pieces of of lobster lobster in in the the middle. middle. Lobster Lobster salad. salado slrlpE SALADE DE DE HoMARo HOMARD -- See See SALAD, SALAD, Lobster Lobs/er salad. sa lad. Cold Cold lobster lobster with with various various sauces. sauces.. HoMARD HDMARD FRorD FROID AvEc AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES DrvERsEs nrVERSES -- Boil Boil the the lobster lobster in in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). (q .v,). Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Split Split itit in in two IwO lengthwise. lengthwise. Crack Crack the the shell shell of of the the claws claws so 50 that Ihal the the flesh ftesh can cau be taken taken out out easily. easily. Garnish Gamish with with fresh fresh parsley or or lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Serve Serve with with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce or any other cold cold sauce, sauce, such such as as Gribiche, Gribiche, Rdmoulade, Rémoulade. Tartare (see SAUCE, .... " 'J"'~-'--. Cold Cold sauces\. sauces). (cold). Iobster in scallop shells Lobster in scallop shells (cold). coqunrrs COQUILLES FRorDEs FROIDES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD -- This This dish dish isis usually usually made made from from scraps. scraps.

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LORRAINE LORRAINE LORRAII\ELORRAINE - District District of ofhigh high gastronomic gastronomic repute' repute. Here Here the the connoisseur connoisseur of of good good cooking eooking will will savour savour many many succulent succulent

coatd coated with with aa little little cream cream sau@ sauce seasoned seasoned with wÎth

mustard. mustard. They They are are covered covered with with the the same same sauce sauce and and browned browned in in the the oven. FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY APPELLATIONS.) APPELLATIONS.) oven. (See (See FRENCH

dishes, dishes, and and will will find find white, white, red red and and rose rosé wines, wines, all ail delightful' delightful, though though some sorne are are more more fragrant fragrant than than others. others. Culinrry Culinllry specialities specialfties -- The The dishes dishes of of Lorraine Lorraine are, are, for for the the most most part, part, substantial. substantial. Heading Heading the the list list of of the the culinary culinary specialities specialities of of what wha t was was once once the the ancient ancient province province of of Lotharingie Lotharingie is is the the potie, potée, the the national national soup soup of of this this region. region.

LOCUST LOCUST or or CAROB CAROB TREE. TREE. cARouBE CAROUBE -- Leguminous Leguminous plant plant which which grows grows in in the the East East and and in in the the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. The The long long pod con tains numerous numerous seeds seeds and and aa rather rather insipid insipid sweet sweet pod contains pulp. pulp.

LOIN. LOIN. clnnf CARRÉ -- The The front front part part of of a a hindquarter hindquarter of of beef, beef,

Then Then there there is is the the quiche, quiche, aa dish dish which which goes goes back back centuries centuries

in in the the gastronomic gastronomie history history of of Lorraine. Lorraine. This This is is aa tart tart made made

mutton, mutton, lamb, lamb, pork park or or veal veal with with the the flank flank removed. removed.

with with eggs, eggs, cream cream and and lean lean bacon. bacon. Itlt isis also also calledfdouse. caUed féouse.

LONGCHAMP -- A A broth broth fundamental fundamental to to Parisian Parisian cooking' eooking. LONGCHAMP shredded shredded sorrel sorrel and and vermicelli vermieelli in in consomm6 consommé and and adding a a puree purée of of fresh fresh green green peas. peas. (See (See SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.)

Another characteristic local Anothercharacteristic local dish dish is is the the tourte tourie dà Ia la Lorraine, Lorraine, made made with with two two kinds kinds of of meat, rneat, veal veal and and pork. park. These These are are first first steeped steeped with with herbs herbs in in aa marinade marinade and and then then baked baked together together pastry. on on aa bed bed ofsavoury of savoury egg egg custard eustard in in aa pie pie crust erust offine of fine pastry. Other Other specialities specialities include include rarnequins; ramequins; kneppes; kneppes; oatfs oeufs dà l'escargot l'escargot (eggs (eggs with with snails); snails); choucroute choucroute (sauerkraut) (sauerkraut) d à la la

ItIt isis made made by by cooking eooking

LONGE LONGE - This This French French term term should refer refer only to to the the top top part part of of the the loin of of veal veal (see (sec VEAL). VEAL).

messine; messine; tourte tourte aux aux oignons oignons (onion (on ion tart tart similar sirnilar to 10 the the Strasbourg Strasbourg onion onion tart); tart); pdtis; pâtés: quenelles quenelles de de foie foie de de veau veau (calves' (calves' liver liver forcemeat forcemeat balls); balls); civet civet de de pork pork frais (civet (civet of of fresh fresh pork); park); and and aa whole who le series series of of local local pork park products, products, the the finest famous black black pudding pudding of of Nancy. Nancy. The The finest being being the the famous potted and pdtis potted meats meats and pâtés de de foie foie gras gras of of Lorraine Lorraine rival rival in in delicacy delicacy those those of of neighbouring neighbouring Alsace. Alsace. A Lazarque, devoted devoted a a book book of of A local local writer, writer, Auricoste A urieoste de de Lazarque, some sorne 300 300 pages pages to ta the Ihe gastronomy gastronomy of of his his homeland. homeland. He He d the matelote speaks speaks with with eloquence eloquence of of the matelole de de Metz; Metz; crayfish cray.fish à la la de Riom; mode de mode mode de de Boulay; Boulay; frogs frogs' legs legs d à Ia la mode Riom,' parttidge parlridge

It is, is, however, inaccurately inaceurately extended extended to ta refer to to the the same same part part of of any slaughtered animal. animal.

LONZO LONZO (Corsican (Corsiclln cookery) cookery) - Pork Pork product product eaten raw as as an euvre, like raw hors-d hors-d'œuvre. raw salt salt ham, harn, made from from boned fillet fi Il et of of pork. pork. This This is is steeped in brine with herbs and then dried.

LOQUAT LOQUAT or or JAPANESE JAPANESE MEDLAR. uirrr NÈFLE DU DU rAPoN JAPON small Fruit of the Japanese biwa.It biwa. It looks something like like a smatl plum. p[um. Its seeds are enclosed in a large stone. stone. Loquats Loquats ripen Provence from from April April onward. onward. They They are are quite quite sweet, slightly slightly tart, and refreshing. ptso-oE-vrAu -- Comman Common name LORDS LORDS AI\D AND LADIES. PIED-OE-VEAU contain edible roots of of which wild arum, arum, the for wi/d the tuberous raots for which contain cuckoo-pint and wake-robin. known as cuckoo-pinl fecula. It is also known wake-robin.

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LOTUS LOTUS goose pâté pdti ofof Rupt-de-Mad; the goose Rupt-de-Mad; soupe soupe dorée; dorie; meillal meillat or or the (applepies); miot; rouyals rouyals (apple pies); chaudée (a kind chaudee (a kind of apple tart); of apple tart); miol; (a kind chemitrds (a kind of of waffie); waffie); and and mally many other other delicious delicious chemitrés dishes. dishes. Among the the delicate pastries made delicate pastries made in in Lorraine Lorraine are are the the Among macaroons and and bergamotes bergamotes of of Nancy; Nancy; the the madeleines madeleines of of macaroons Commercy; the (similar to the kugelhupf kugelhupf (similar to that that of of Alsace); Alsace); Commercy; Nancy cake; cake; the the none nonettes of Remiremont; Remirem ont; aniseed aniseed bread; bread;and and Nancy Iles of plum larl. jams; the mirabelle plum tart. There There "·o_."m',,,,~n hors-d'euvre. as aa sai salad or an be eaten eaten either either as Macédoine DE uacfootxr DE cream. MACÉDOINE Mac6doine of vegetables with with cream. of vegetables LÉGUMES mixture of cook the same same mixture of r6crnars À A LA rl CRÈME cniw -- Prepare and cook ve)get.ables Blend in in fresh cream. vegetables as as above. above. Blend fresh cream. M:acÉ~doine A op LÉGUMES I-fcuuns À MAcfDoINE DE Mac6doine of vegetables in jeUy. ielly. MACÉDOINE LA which isis usually usually served served rr GELÉE This type of macédoine, macidoine, which cnlfn -- This type of jelly stock, with mayonnaise set mixed with with concentrated concentrated jelly stock, isis set mayonnaise mixed jelly. ItIt ISis also in as aspic aspic of of also known known as mould Iined lined with with jelly. in aa mould vegelables. vegetables.

LÉGUMES rfcuuns

MACKEREL. - A fish. A long, slender. saltwater fish. MACKEREL. MAQUEREAU MAeuEREAUslender, saltwater Ils blue or or and smooth, back steely steely blue Its scales are small smooth, its back scales are small and greenish, and greenish, its white. It It isis fatty fatty and an opalescent opalescent silvery white. its belly an savoury, or soused. soused. and is is eaten eaten fresh, fresh, smoked, smoked, salted or savoury, and lts mackerel isis derived derived soombrid. The The name name mackerel Its real real name name is is soombrid. from means aa which also also means word maquerean which from the French word the French 'procurer' or fish because of its its 'pimp'. ItIt was was given to to this this fish because of or 'pimp'. (known as 'virgins') to as 'virgins') to the the habit of of escorting escorting the the young shad (known males. males. The The male mackerel mackerel is is polygamous. The young mackerels sansonnets. for young mackerels isis sansonnets. The French French name name for Mackerel A L'ANGLAISE t'lNctltss -- Cut Mackerd àI l'anglaise. I'anglaise. MAQUEREAU MAeT.JEREAU À Cut the the v.) flavoured fish (q.v.) flavoured in aa court-bouillon fish into court-bouillon (q. into thick Poach in thick slices. slices. Poach with fennel. gooseberry purée. pur6e. rather liquid liquid gooseberry fennel. Serve with aa rather Serve with Mackerel nouroNu BOULONMackerel ài la la boulonnaise. boulonnaise. MAQUEREAU ueeuEREAU ÀA LA NAISE Poach in in aa courtcourtmackerel into NAISE -- Cut into thick slices. Poach thick slices. Cut the the mackerel with aa good deal bouillon and skin. Drain and skin. Arrange deal of vinegar. Drain bouillonwith on on aa dish dish and surround surround with shelled, shelled, poached mussels. Coyer (see SAUCE) moistened with a little wfih Buller Butter sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mc,isten(x! Cover with of mussel cooking of the mackerel and and mussel cooking stocks. stocks. the mackerel Mackerel BEURRE rraleunnsAu AU AU BEURRE Mackerel with with browned browned butter butter J.I. MAQUEREAU 569 s69 Newly (Poilane. Phol. phot. Nicolas) Newly baked baked bread bread(Poilane. Nicolasl

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How contourt of of the How to fillet fillet mackerel mackerel:: Trace the contour'S (Laroussel fillet with aaknlfe fillet knife (Larousse)

Slide the knife knife along the backbooe backbone and detach Slide (.I-arozsse) the fillet (Larousse)

dip in egg and fillets and and dip the fillets in egg rn Season the - Season breadcrumbs. Fry in butter. (q.v.) and surround with a of risotto risotto (g.v.) Serve on a foundation of FONDUE). border of Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). la vénitienne. FiBets Filleb of mackerel àdr la v6nitienne. FILETS FILETS DE MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU wine with À LA - Cook the fillets fillets in in white A re VÉNITIENNE vENnTENNE Cook the white wine and chervil. chopped shallots and chervil. Drain. Put on aa serving dish. (sw SAUCE) Venetian sauce sauce (see which the Coyer to which with Venetian SAUCE) to Cover with boiled-down pan juices have been added. boiled-down AU Filleb of mackerel rrrEls DE MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU AU Fillets mackerel in white wiue. wine. FILETS BLANC- Trim the fillets vrN BLANCfillets and and season VIN season them with salt and pepper. Put in in aa buttered baking tin. Moisten with with conpepper. Put buttered baking tin. Moisten (q.v.) and and bake in centrated white wine fumet (g.v.) wine fish fumet in the oyen oven for 8 to to 10 minutes. Drain, boil down the pan juices and use for White wine sauce (see SAUCE). as a basis for SAUCE). Pour the sauce over the mackerel and and serve. u.a.quEREAU FRIT FRIT -- This This is is especially especially Fried Fried mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAU suitable for in cold, boiled milk. Flour for small mackerel. Dip in lightly and deep-fry deep-fry in very hot fat. Drain, dry on a cloth and and parsley and with dry dry table season season with table salt. salt. Gamish Garnish with with fried fried parsley lemon. MAeUEREAU GRILLÉ GriUed Gri[ed mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAU cRrrrf -- Snip off the the tip of jaw and and slit the fish along the the mackerel's jaw the fish the back. back. Open Open it places without separating and cut the bone in two places separating the halves. grill slowly. Season, baste with melted butter and grill form. Pour Shape Shape the in its its original Pour on on half the mackerel in original form. (see BUTTER, melted Maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter melted Maître butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). grilled fish, Any sauce for grilled fish, e.g. Any sauce suitable suitable for e.g. Bordelaise, Bordelaise, (see SAUCE) can Provençale, Provengale, Saint-Malo Saint-Malo (see can be be served served with mackerel. Mackerel la meunière. meuniire. MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU À A LA LA MEUNIÈRE urtrNrine -Mackerel ài la Prepare like Bass àd la la meunière like,Bass meuniire (see BASS). BASS). Mackerel roes. LAITANCES LArrANcEs DE DE MAQUEREAU Mackerel soft soft roes. MAeUEREAU -- See See SOFT ROES. Soused Sorned mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAUX MAeuEREAtrx MARINÉS MlnrNss -- Usually Usually served served as as aa cold cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Proceed Proceed as as for for Marinade Marinade of of fresh fresh herrings (see HERRING).

all from and Pouilly-Vinzelles, Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles, ail from the Fuiss6, Pouilly-Loch6 Micon. (See BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.) Solutré Solutr6 region, south of Mâcon.

,d, À LA prcraoNrArsE PIÉMONTAISE -

MACONNAISE -- Wine Wine cask Miconnais cask in in use use in in the the Mâconnais MÂCONNAISE (46| gallons, 58 gallons). about 212 2l2litres district. It holds about litres (461 (1+ is also applied to aa bottle, containing 8 dl. bottle, containing dl. (1 This name is t Mnconnais wines. lJ pints), which is used for Mâconnais pints, IJ

(A LA) given to various meat Name given to various MACONNAISE (À MÂCONNAISE LA) -- Name dishes flavoured with red wine. in dyeing, dyeing, from used in cARANcE -- Plant Plant used MADDER-WORT. MADDER-WORT. GARANCE which a kind of beer can be brewed. g. (18 oz., 4t cups) sifted flour MADEIRA CAKE CAKE -- Mix 500 g. (l lb., g. (1 and 1b.,2 with tI teaspoon 2 cups) butter and teaspoon salt. salt. Cream 450 g. (l lb., and Beat 10 l0 egg yolks untillight until light and g. (1 1b.,2 450 g. 2 cups) sugar. Beat mixture. Sift in the add to the flour gradually. Add t+ add to the the butter mixture. grated rind of I lemon. Beat teaspoon teaspoon lemon essence and the grated Line 22 900-g. 900-9. (2-lb.) and fold fold in. in. Line stiff, and the the egg egg whites until stiff, paper. Pour paper or Pour the or waxed waxed paper. with buttered bread buttered paper bread tins tins with pans and with sugar. and sprinkle sprinkle the the surface surface with batter into the the pans batter into (300"F., Gas Mark 2). Place small lf hours at at 150°C. 150'C. (300°F., Bake liafter the the cake after citron on on the the surface surface of the slices of éandied candied citron first 15 l5 minutes of baking. first

t

This wine, wine, which which is vIN DE DE MADÈRE MADTRE -- This WINE. VIN MADEIRA WINE. grown on Madeira in in the grapes grown the on the the island island of Madeira made made from from grapes Atlantic Atlantic Ocean, is one of the finest of fortified wines. Madeira, such such as are made made in in Madeira, Various types of wine wine are Various types of of Malmsey, Muscatel, Dry Madeira, made from the grapes of into Madeira Madeira have been imported into vines which are said to have been imported vines which are said to fifteenth century. Funchal, the century. Funchal, in about about the the fifteenth from from Cyprus Cyprus in the storehouse storehouse of these wines. capital of the island, is the It is drunk as wine. It as exhilarating wine. Madeira is aa tonic and an exhilarating great deal in is used in cooking. an an apéritif ap6ritif before meals and is used aa great pie served pie. CROÛTE .lu MADÈRE rvrl,oinn -- Fruit pie with Madeira pie. cno0rn AU served with Madeira apricot sauce flavoured with Madeira. Lu MADÈRE demi-glace sauce Madeira sauce. sauce. SAUCE sAUcE AU Meoins -- A A demi-glace Madeira (See SA SAUCE.) boiled down with Madeira. (See UCE.) nu MADÈRE in soRBETs AU M,qoiRE -- Sherbets served served in Madeira sherbets. SORBETS just before Madeira poured over over them just with Madeira sherbet sherbet glasses with serving.

MÂCON VIACON WINE. VIN vrN DE MÂCON MAcon is weil well ruAcoN -- The name of Mâcon grapes from the known, the grapes known, thanks to the excellent wines made from to the grown around this town dipartement. in the the Saône-et-Loire town in Sa6ne-et-Loire département. The tends along the opes which which run The Côte C6te mâconnaise mdconnaise ex extends the si slopes almost parallel to right bank bank of of the Sa6ne between almost parallel to the the right the Saône Tournus and Rhdne département. dipartement. and the the boundary boundary of the the Rhône (known as Mâconnais as Mâcon Mdcon wines) are full bodied Mdconnais wines (known aroma. and very smooth, with aa delicate delicate and distinctive distinctive aroma. Tbe are PouillyPouillvMdcon wines The most famous of the white white Mâcon wines are

and of flour, butter, eggs and MADELEII\E - A small MADELEINE-A small cake made offlour, sugar. pastry-making says the of pastry-making says that the A chronicler chronicler of the the history of madeleine when when he Avice, invented the great pastry-cook, Avice, the madeleine of using Talleyrand. 'He had the idea of was working for Prince Talleyrand. (q.v.) or (q.v.) mixture mixture for quate-quarrs (q.v.) for little little cakes cakes tôt-fait tlt-fail (q.v.) or quatre-quarts mould. M. M. Boucher and and Carême Car6me approved approved baked in an an aspic aspic mould. 570 570

MAIGRE MAIGRE The term maddrist madérisé in in modern French also also applies applies to to the unpleasant bottle bottle smell smell of of aa wine kept for for too long long aa period. period. soup MADRILENE MADRILÈNE (A (À LA) LA) - Name Name given given to to a a clear clear soup (generally with (generally served served cold cold or or chilled) chilled) which which is is flavoured ftavoured with tomato other dishes, tomato juice. juice. The The name name is is also also applied applied to to other

flavoured ftavoured with tomato tomato juice. juice.

MAGISTDRBS MAGISTÈRES - Name Name given to a a number number of of nourishing nourishing

of la soups invented by Brillat-Savarin, author author of la Physiologie du go,frt. goût.

Madeleines old-fashioned moulds Madeleines made made in old-fashioned moulds

'The first of the magistires', magistères', says Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, 'is 'is made made as follows:

idea. He gave the name of madeleines madeleines to these cakes.' cakes.' the idea. (Lacam, Mdmorial la pdtisserie.) Mémorial de la pâtisserie.) Other authorities, authorities, however, hold hold that that far far from from having Other been invented invented by by Avice, these these little little cakes cakes were known in been They believe France long before his his time. time. They believe that that they they were France made at at Commercy, Commercy, and and were were brought into into fashion first made first Stanislas Versailles and then, in Paris, by Stanislas about 1730, first at Versailles Leczinski, father-in-law father-in-Iaw of Louis XV, who was very partial them. to them. The for madeleines madeleines remained a a secret for for aa very recipe for The recipe very large large sum to the long time. It is said that it was sold for a very pastry-makers who made pastry-makers of of Commercy, made of of this this great Commercy, who gastronomic specialities of their finest gastronomic delicacy one the finest one of the town.

Chop 'Take 6large handful of of parsley. 6 large onions, 3 carrots, a handful parsley. Chop

pot to and put all ail these these ingredients and put them them in in a a pot to warm warm and

brown brown with a piece of good fresh butter. just right, (6 oz.) g. (6 in 175 175 g. 'When the throw in the mixture is is just right, throw of grains pounded amber, with with aa slice slice of 20 grains sugar, 20 candied sugar, pounded amber, 45 minutes and and add Boil for for 45 water. Boil toast and 3 bottles toast and bottles of water. lost through through amount lost small fresh water to fresh water to make make up up the the sm ail amount liquid remain. full of liquid evaporation, so so that 3 bottles full evaporation, all, in in a mortar with with and ail, flesh, bones and an old fowl, ftesh, 'Pound an (2 lb.) carefully g. (2 carefully chosen beef. an iron pestle. Chop 900 g. and adding salt salt and 'When this is mix the the two two meats, is done mix 'When meats, adding flame, so so pepper. Put the mixture in aa saucepan over aa high Bame, pepper. and from from time right through, time to through, and heat penetrates that the that the heat penetra tes right mixture is is weil well so that that the the mixture little fresh fresh butter add aa little time add time butter so pan. sticking to the pan. browned without sticking strain the soup which is 'When the stock begins to brown, strain little the little by by little With this, first saucepan. With this, moisten little in the the first in in, it is is ail all mixed in, mixture in the second saucepan, and, when it mixture liquid ripples 45 minutes so that the surface of the liquid boil it for 45 from time be taken taken to to add hot water from throughout. Care must be throughout. result The result level remains remains constant. The that the the liquid level so that to time so long as as long as the is certain as effect is whose beneficial beneficial effect is aa potion whose is able to digest may be, is still to digest be, is still able he may invalid, however however exhausted he food.' how the magistdre the magistère goes on on to explain how to explain Brillat-Savarin goes BrilIat-Savarin given to invalid. the invalid. be given to the should be given aa cup hours cup every every 33 hours 'On the be given he should first day day he should be the first 'On days, aa following days, on the the following he settles down for the the night; on until he settles down until in the amount in and the the same same amount only and large cup morning only cup in in the the morning large The invalid invalid should should be are used up. The evening, until the 3 bottles are of legs of as legs nourishing diet, diet, such such as light though kept on on aa light though nourishing kept jam. and jam. fish, sweet sweet fruit and poultry, fish, be able able to invalid should should be fourth day day the the invalid 'Towards the the fourth 'Towards normal life. return to to normal retum 'is intended points out, intended 'This magistère,' out, 'is Brillat-Savarin points magistire,' Brillat-Savarin 'This people who and for for people who dynamic characters characters and and dynamic for robust robust and for energies.' up their their energies.' generally wear out by by burning up wear themselves out generally made from from shin of shin of another magistère magistire made The mas master suggests another The ter suggests 'the weak for 'the weak and and the the pigeons and intended for and crayfish, veal, pigeons crayfish, intended veal, infirm'. infirm'.

Commercy Commercy madeleines madeleines

Commercy Commercy madeleine. MADELEINE MADELETNE DE DE COMMERCY coMMERcv -- Work (1 lb. g. (1 together in lb. 66 oz., fine sugar, in aa bowl bowl 625 625 g. oz., 55 cups) cups) fine sugar, (l lb. g. (1 lb.66 oz., flour, 12 l2 eggs, l| teaspoons 5t cups) sieved 625 625 g. o2.,Slcups) sieved ftour, eggs, 1t grated rind pinch of bicarbonate of soda, rind of aa lemon, aa pinch of soda, the the grated salt. (ll oz., g. (Il very smooth, When this mixture is When is very smooth, add to to itit 300 g. Mix weIl. cups) melted melted butter. well. Put Put in in buttered madeleine 11$ t cups) butter. Mix moulds. Bake in very slow slow oyen. oven. in aa very Plain madeleines. MADELETNES ORDINAIRES Ingredients. Plain madeleines. MADELEINES oRDTNAIRES -- Ingredients. (9 oz., (9 oz., g. (9 g. (9 250 2* cups) 250 g. fine sugar, 250 g_ oz,2f cups) sieved o2.,22 cups) cups) fine sugar, 250 sieved (9 oz., g. (9 generous cup) flour, 250 melted butter, eggs, aa ftour, 250 g. oz., generous cup) melted butter, 44 eggs, pinch of flavouring. of salt, salt, vanilla vanilla or or other other ftavouring. and ftavouring flour, eggs, flavouring into Method. Method. Put eggs, salt salt and into Put the the sugar, sugar, ftour, mixture isis smooth. aa bowl. bowl. Work Work with with aa spatula spatula until until the the mixture smooth. Add Add the melted butter. the melted required number number of of madeleine Butter Butter and and Bour flour the the required mixture. The moulds should moulds. moulds. Spoon The moulds should be be twotwoSpoon in in the the mixture. (375'F., Gas thirds 190'C. (375°F., Mark 5) 5) for for 15 l5 to 20 full. Bake Bake at at 190°C. Gas Mark to 20 thirds full. minutes. minutes.

DAYS. BYGONE DA OF BYGONE RESTAURANTS OF See RESTAURANTS MAGNY -- See MAGNY YS. prc -- Corn France, sometimes sometimes eaten eaten bird in in France, MAGPIE. PIE Common MAGPIE. mon bird mainly for for very dry and isis used used mainly The ftesh flesh is is very dry and in the country. The the country_ in and more more edi edible. are more more tender tender and Young magpies magpies are stock. Young stock. ble_

given in milk soured Balkans to soured by by in the to milk MAIA -- Name Name given the Balkans MAlA preparaleaven in previous fermentation as aa leaven in the the preparaand used used as fermentation and previous ofyoghourt. tion of tion yoghourt. prescribed by foods prescribed by the the describing foods word describing French word MAIGRE -- French MAIGRE and days days of of abstinence. abstinence. during Lent Lent and for consumption consumption during Church for Church pervegetable origin origin were were peronly foods foods of of vegetable In the early days, days, only the early ln and eggs; eggs; gradually authorised butter butter and Church authorised mitted, but but grad the Church ually the mitted, as fish; fish; then creatures su such then flesh of of cold-blooded cold-blooded creatures then the the ftesh then ch as

acquire MADERISED. MADERISED. MADÉRISÉ wines acquire white wines trrnr6nls6 -- Certain Certain white maderwith id to Madeira. These These are are sa to be be maderwith age age aa ftavour flavour of of Madeira. said ised. ised. 57r 571

MAILLOT (considered ta certain waterfowl waterfowl (considered to be be cold-blooded, cold-blooded, too) too) such such certain as the pintail, the duck, the the shoveller shoveller duck, the pintail, the scotcr, scoter, the waterhen, the waterhen, as coot, the the coot, the teal, teal, the water-rail, the the water-rail. curlew, the the curlew. heron, the the heron, the the godwit, the the sandpiper sandpiper and and the the wheatear. wheatear. godwit,

the office office of of maître maitre d'hôlel d'h6tel was was always always held persons of held by by persons of the the the highest rank, rank, sometimes sometimes princes of royal. Although of the Although the blood royal. at that lime time the the office office was was aa sinecure. sinecure, the maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel was, the maître was, at least nominally, at least nominally, in in charge charge of of all all departments departments of of the royal the royal al household, including including the the kitchens and and cellars, cellars, and and ail all the household. the functionaries and and servants. servants. functionaries The martre maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel of of aa modem modern restaurant great restaurant or or aa great The private establishment establishment today, today, must must have have aa very very extensive extensive private range of of technical knowledge. He qualities of technical knowledge. He must must have have qualities range of which will will enable him to his staff to command his leadership which with staffwith authority and and courtesy. courtesy. He He must must he first-class adminibe aa first-class administrator and aa tactful diplomat. diplomat. strator He must must be thoroughly familiar with details details of of the the special special He work of of the the dining-room, kitchens and and cel/ars. cellars. He He must must be work able to talk talk 10 politely but to the clients -- in several several languages -- polilely able but not obsequiously. He He must must he be able able to his clienls, to advise his clients, 10 not to guide them in in their choice of of dishes, the go with their choice the wines wines to to go them and the fruit fruit to follow. qualities which are the the qualities which the the modern maître mattre d'hôlel d'h6tel These are must possess. If he is grand seigneur, as is no longer aa grand as were the must the in the this office in the great royal important personages who filled lhis households, he is is usually aa man of distinction, good good educahouseholds, particularly, aa master and, particularly, master of of his his an, art, for for service at at the tion and, the an arl as cooking. art as cooking. table is îs as much an

MAILLOT -- See See GARNrSHES. GARNISHES. MAILLOT MAINE - See See ORLÉANAIS. ORLEANAIS. MAll't'E-

(A LA) MNNTENON (À LA) -- See MIXTURES, Maintenon See MIXTURES, Maintenon MAINTENON mixture, mixture. MAIRE -_ See RESTAURANTS OF See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE BYGONE DA DAYS. MAIRE YS. MAISON -* The The term maison is is often often abused abused in in restaurants. restaurants. term maison MA1SON (or sorne All too too often often one one reads: reads: sole sole (or other fish) some olher fish) maison, maison. Ail chicken maison, maison. etc. etc. chicken The epithet epithet maison, maison, in in its its origin and in the minds of The restaurateurs who honestly, indicates (hat who use use it it honestly, dish in that the the dish in restaurateurs question has has been made by been made by the restaurateur himself or the restaurateur or his question following aa recipe which he can staff, following can daim claim aniurt:,mtnp~ hpigrammes. recipe, see For aa recipe, see LAMB, Breast style). Filets mutton en en chevreuil cheweuil (venison style). Fitets mignons mignons of of mution for as for Proceod as FILETS EN CHEVREUIL cHEvREUn -- proceed DE MOUTON MouroN EN FTLETs MIGNONS MrcNoNs DE (see BEEF). BEEF). venison style style (see en chevreuil, chevreuil, venison Beef filets mignons en MIGNoNS DE DE mutton FILETS FILETS MIGNONS of mution. Grilled filets mignons of season; baste baste fillets slightly. Season; the fillets MOUTON Cnrrr,ns - Flatten the Pour with coat with breadcrumbs. Pour oil and and coat melted butter or oil with melted butter or grill slowly. with Maitre Maitre Serve with melted and grill slowly. Serve over them them and melted butter butter over (see BUTTER, or any any d'hôlel butters) or Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound d'h6tel butter butter (see other meat. for grilled meat. other sauce sauce suitable suitable for FILEr DE DE MOUTON MouroN Fillet roast). FILET Fillet of mutton (U.S. Sirloin roast). of mution Name lengthwise. given to split lengthwise. Name given to the the half-saddle, split roasted, This can be be roasted, after boning. boning. ItIt can rolled and and tied This cut cut isis rolled tied after garnishes pot-roasted All garnishes rib or or shoulder. pot-roasted or as for for rib shoulder. Ali or braised, braised, as for of mutton. mutton. for fillet fillet of are suitable suitable for rib or for rib or shoulder shoulder are (of mutton The lamb) isisused of the the mutton or or lamb) usedof The termfilets mignons (of termfilets mignons two found under under the the saddle. saddle. meat found of meat two thin thin slivers slivers of Fillets DE FILET FILEr DE DE BRocHETTES DE skewers. BROCHETTES mutton on on skewers. Filleb of of mution MOUTON lamb into into mutton or or lamb loin of of mutton well-trimmed loin Cut aa well-trimmed MouroN -- Cut Thread these onskewers skewers theseon pieces about inch) thick. thick. Thread about 1-* cm. (* inch) alt.errlating hlanched dip piecc of lean bacon. Season,dip of lean bacon. Season, alternating with with"p. blanched pieces into sprinkle with white white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sprinkle cover with butter, coyer into melted butter, with grill. melted butter, and grill. with melted butter, and Pieces lightly tossed in tossed in mushrooms, Iightly and sliced sliced mushrooms, Pieces of of bacon, bacon, and butter, added. can also also be beadded. butter, can Proceeding bove, various disheson onskewers, variousdishes skewers, as described described aabove, Proceeding as such of or escalopes escalopes of livers, lamb's lamb's sweetbreads sweetbreads or as chicken chicken livers, such as calf's veal, lamboror veal, of beef, fillets of beef, mutton,lamb calf's sweetbreads,fiUets fillets (for the fillets of of latter omit omit the the bacon),fillets the latter fillets of of various various fish(for chicken, replaced prepared. Lean can bereplaced Lean bacon baconcan chicken, etc., etc.,can canbe be prepared. by does not notneed need to pieces of whichdoes tobe be ofsmoked smoked bacon, bacon, which bysquare square pieces blancbed. blanched. Fillets AUVIN vIN DEMOUTON MouroN AU rrrsrs DE red wme. wine. FILETS Filleb of of mution mutton inin red ROUGE with pieces.Season Seasonwith littlesquare fillets into into Iittle square pieces. RoucE - - Cut Cut the the fillets salt keeping slightly pepper. Cook slightly butter, keeping and pepper. Cook inin sizzling butter, salt and underdone generous 125g.g.(4oz., oz.,generous inside. Drain. Drain. Toss 125 on the theinside. underdoneon 22cups) Take butter.Take mushrooms inin the thesame samebutter. cups) thickly thickly sliced sliced mushrooms the meat. panand putthem with the themeat. andput them with outof ofthe thepan mushrooms out themushrooms Pour pan.Boil Boil pint,lil{ cups) red wine wineinto into the cups) red the pan. dl.(t(t pint, Pour 33dl.

the cutlets. cutlets. Drain and and remove the pork fat. fat. Glaze Glaze them. tbem. the Arrange in in a circle on a dish, and garnish as indicated. indicated. Boil Arrange over the dish. and strain the cooking cooking stock stock and pour pour over down and Prepared in this way, cutlets can be garnished with vegePrepared tables, tossed in butter butter or braised, braised, and served served with garnishes cy" ... n;~h,>~ tables, etc. (see as Chipolata, Forestiire, Forestière, Financiire, Financière, etc. (see GARsuch as NISHES). They They can can also also be be garnished garnished with with vegetable vegetable NISHES). prepared in different different ways, risotto, etc. purées, pasta prepared pur6es, Mution cutleb cutlets (chops) (chops) La La Varenne. Varenne. CÔTELETTES c0rslsrrEs DE Mutton cutlets. MOUTON LA vARENNE VARENNE -- Cut the medallions out of 6 cutlets. MouroN chop this meat meat with with I its weight of dry Duxelles Duxelles (q.v.), Finely chop chopped (3 tablespoons) butter, 2 teaspoons chopped 2 tablespoons (3 and pepper. pepper. Reshape Reshape the tbe cutlets cutlets with with this parsley, salt and in tbem back on the bone. bone. Dip the the cutlets in mixture, and put them and sauté egg and breadcrumbs and saut6 in clarified butter. Arrange with th very thick on a dish. Fill the middle of of the dish wi in aa circle on Mushroom purie purée (se (see PUREE), made made with the addition of with the of g. (4 oz., 2 cups) diced tossed in butter. butter. Make aa diced truffies tossed 100 g. (see SAUCE) ofaa few tablespoons tablespoons of sauce of SAUCE) Demi-glace sauce (see of Demi-glace cooked with witb Madeira. Madeira. Add butter and and strain. Pour over the dish. Mution cl.ltlets (chops) à la os la villageoise. CÔTELETTES c6rrl.nrtss DE Mutton cutlets (chops) MOUTON A À LA in their their vLLIcEoISE -- Braise and leave to cool in MouroN t,c. VILLAGEOISE pUItED with very concentrated stock. Make aa Soubise concentrated Soubise (see PURÉE) veal stock in butter. saut6ed in add sliced mushroolns sautéed sliced mushrooms veal and add stock and each cutlet. cutlet. Proone side side of each Heap sorne mixture on on one some of this this mixture ceed as as for Mutton Mutton cutlets Maintenon. Mution DE la Villeroi. Villeroi. CÔTELETTES cOrsrnrrrs DE Mutton cutlets cutleb (chops) à la MOUTON À cool leave to and leave to cool A LA v[LsnoI -- Braise the cutlets and MouroN Le VILLEROI in (see Villeroi sauce sauce (see Dip in in Villeroi and trim. Drain and trim. Dip in their their stock. stock. Drain SAUCE) and in c1arified clarified Cook in and breadcrumbs. in egg and breadcrumbs. Cook and in and doyley and and drain. butter and drain. Arrange in a circle on a paper doyley sauce or or garnish with with fried fried parsley. Serve with Pirigueux sauce (see SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see Civet of mution. in butter 24 DE MOUTON Brown in butter 24 MouroN -- Brown mutton CIVET cryET DE li loosely packed cups) small onions and 200 (7 oz., g. (7 diced cups) diced oz.,lt 200 g. and pork. of pork. and blanched blanched belly of Take pan and, fat, brown brown and, in in the the same same fat, Take them them out out of of the the pan thoroughly (generous 11 g. (generous lb.) lower lower mutton mutton cutlets cutlets l+ lb.) 750 g. thoroughly 750 (U.S. (U.S. rib into squares. squares. Season Season and trimmed rib chops), chops), boned boned and trimmed into with shed c10ve garlic clove of pepper and crushed of garlic and spices. spices. Add Add 1I cru with salt, salt, pepper and (3 tablespoons) flour. tablespoons) flour. and sprinkle with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 sprinkle with Cook golden-brown. Moisten with equal Moisten with until the flour isis golden-brown. the flour Cook until parts garni and 22 parts red Add aa bouquet garni red wine wine and and clear clear stock. stock. Add tablespoons) an for an in the oyen oven for and cook cook in Cover and tablespoons) brandy. brandy. Coyer hour. hour. Drain pan and and add add pieces back in the the pan back in Drain on on aa sieve. Put the the pieces sieve. Put the mushrooms pork lardoons, and 24 24 smaU small mushrooms lardoons, small onions and small onions the pork previously over and pour itit over previously tossed Strain the sauce and in butter. the sauce butter. Strain tossed in the for an an hour. cook in mutton. Coyer and cook in the the oyen oven for the mutton. Cover and The of aa with the blood of civet isis thickened the blood The sauce of this thickened with sauce of this civet chicken or rabbit. rabbit. chicken or Curried L'INDIENNE DE MOUTON MouroN ÀA L'INDIENNE nlco0r DE mutton RAGOÛT Curid mution. (CURRIE lb.) lean (neck (41b.) (cunnm DE lean mutton mutton (neck t* kg. kg. (JiDie It on MOUTON) uouroN) -- Dice chops pieces 44 cm. cm. ut inches) square. into pieces chops or or shoulder) shoulder) into Brown (5 oz., Ii cups) g. (5 150 g. cups) chopped onions. lard with with 150 Brown in in lard Season powder. Brown for for aa and 1I teaspoon curry powder. Season with with salt salt and few garlic. of crushed crushed garlic. few seconds on the the stove. stove. Add aa clove of seconds on t cup) Sprinkle (2 oz., moisten with with and moisten g. (2 flour. Mix Mix and with 50 50 g. oz.,* cup) flour. Sprinkle with clear just enough meat. Add Add 1I enough to cover the the meat. water, just to coyer clear stock stock or or water, chopped removed, and and aa peeled tomato, with the the seeds seeds removed, tomato, with chopped peeled garni. Coyer l| hours. for I-!hours. and cook cook for bouquet garni. Cover and on the Pour on in aa bowl. the meat in Put the bowl. Pour out the the meat Take out the bouquet Put sauce, juice. with lemon lemon juice. necessary, flavoured flavoured with boiled down down if necessary, sauce, boiled Serve (see RICE). RICE). with Rice I'indienne (see Serve with Rice àd l'indienne Curried prepared in way as as in the sameway also be the same can also be prepared mutton can Curried mutton Chicken (see CHICKEN). curry (see CHICKEN). Chicken curry ItIt isis also preparing itit in way as as possible, still in the French way the French also possible, still preparing

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613 613

MUTTON MUTTON down, down, add a a few few tablespoons thickened brown veal veal stock, simmer to aa concentrated consistency, some butter, consistency, blend in sorne strain, and pour pour over the mutton and mushrooms. Haricot Haricot or or halicot halicot of of mutton. mutton. HARrcor HARICOT (rnr,rcor) (HALICOT) on DE MoUToN Mutton ragofrt ragoût whose name is no doubt derived MOUTON - Mutton from the old French halicoter, to cut into tiny morsels. morsels. There are recipes fs1 for this dish which date back to a a time before the the vegetable vegetable bean (haricot) (haricot) was generally known. known. In one of of the the oldest oldest formulae formulae given given by Taillevenf Taillevent, the following recipe recipe is given. given. all raw to fry in lard, cut into tiny pieces with 'Put them themall sliced onions and some sorne beef beef broth, broth, verjuice, parsley, parsley, hyssop hyssop sIiced onions and and sage, sage, and and boil boil together, together, with with fine-powdered spices.' Thus in in former former times haricot haricot (or (Of halicot) of of mutton was made made without without haricot haricot beans. The only garnish was turnips, turnips, potatoes potatoes and onions. onions. Haricot of of mutton mutton is made made hke like a ragofrt ragoût of of mutton with potatoes, potatoes, and has has nothing in in common with the the rago,fit ragoût of mutton mutton with with white white haricot haricot beans beans for for which which the the recipe recipe is given below. below. Mutton Mutton hash, hash. rncrn HACHIS DE DE MouroN MOUTON - Made Made from from cooked meat, meat, braised braised or roasted roasted in in the the same same way way as as Beef Beef hash hash (see (see BEEF). BEEF) . Mutton Mutton head head - See See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Sheep's Sheep' s head. head. Muttm Mutton hindquarter. hindquarter. oousr; DOUBLE DE DE MouroN MOUTON -- This This cut cut is is made made up up of of the the two two hind hind legs legs of of the the animal. animal. They They are are not not split. split. The The hindquarter hindquarter isis usually usually roastd roasted and and served served as as an an intermediate intermediate meat meat course, course. All Ali garnishes garnishes and and sau@s sauces indicated indicated for Baron Baron of of mutton mutton can can be he served served with with this this dish. dish . Mutton Mutton kidnep kidneys -- See See OFFAT OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS . Leg Leg of of nutton mutton ià I'angld5s l'anglaise I.I. clcor GIGOT DE DE MouroN MOUTON A À L',q.NGL' ANGulsn LAISE-- Take Take aa leg leg of ofmutton, mutton, trim, trim, cut cut off offthe the end end of ofthe the bone, bone, wrap wrap in in aa buttered buttered and and floured floured cloth cloth and and plunge plunge into into aa pan pan of of boiling boiling salt salt water. water. Add Add 44 medium-sized medium-sized carrots carrots cut cut to to look look like like big big olives, olives, 66 medium-sized medium-sized onions onions (one (one studded studded with with 22 cloves), bouquetgarni garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and and 22 cloves cloyes garlic. garlic. In In the the same same cloyes), aa bouquet pan pan put put I1dozen dozen large, large, tender tender turnips, turnips, quartered quartered and and tied tied in in aa cloth. clotho Boil pound of of meat. meat. Boil steadily, steadily, allowing allowing 30 30 minutes minutes per per pound Drain Drain and and unwrap unwrap the the leg leg of of mutton. mutton. Put Put itit on on aa serving serving dish, dish, and and surround surround with with the the carrots carrots and and onions. onions. With With itit serve serve the the turnips, turnips, rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve, sieve, and and aa Butter Butter sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made made with with the the cooking cooking stock stock of of the themutton, mutton,with with22tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) tablespoons)capers added. capers added.

Skim and drain the rest of the stock and serve separately. separately. Leg of mutton ài l'anglaise I'angfaise II. GIGOT crc,or DE MOUTON MouroN À A L'ANGI'ANGpur6e of LArsE LAISE -- Proceed as as indicated above, above, substituting substituting aa purée pur6e of turnips. celery for the the turnips, the the purée turnips. (Like the the celery must he the mutton.) be cooked with the potatoes cooked Mashed potatoes with the mutton mutton can he Mashed cookedwith be served served in place of turnips or celery. celery. Leg of mutton cooked according to to the the English method should purée of turnips turnips only, should he be served served with aa puree which are only, which cooked with the meat. grosses piices Carême, in in his his Traité des grosses pièces de de mouton, Car6me, Traili des mouton, advises glazing glazing the the leg after boiling boiIing with with the the usual ingredients. advises He also advises garnishing garnishing with cauliflower cauliflower covered covered with a sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE) . very smooth Espagnole scuce adds that all ail kinds of vegetables and and sauces sauces can can be be He adds of mutton cooked in this way. way. served with leg of 'It is a strange error on the part of of many chefs,' he he conEngIish gounnets gourmets will eat this this leg cludes, 'to suppose that English only if if served served with with boiled carrots and and turnips. What What the only like best best is to see see the the juie juice coming coming from the leg leg when English like they slice it.' iL' they Leg of of mutton mutton ià la .bonre bonne femme. femme. crcor GIGOT pB DE uourox MOUTON A À le LA Leg BONNE FEMME FEMME -- Proceed Proceed as indicated indicated for Shoulder Shoulder of of mutton BoNNE la bonne bonne femme femme (se (see below). below). dà la Leg of of mutton mutton ià la bordelaise bordelaise (Car€me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). crcor GIGOT DE DE Leg À rA LA soRDeLArsE BORDELAISE -- 'Take 'Take a leg of of mutton which which has MOUTON A MouroN hung until until very very tender. tender. Bone Bone it, it, except except for for the the projecting projecting been hung been Stuff with with ham ham and fillets fillets of of anchovy anchovy from which all aIl bone. Stuff bone. has been been removed, and also also with chopped parsley, parsley, 22 salt has and I1 clove clove of of garlic, garlic, chopped chopped and and blanched. blanched. Tie Tie the the shallots and aU the the stuffing. stuffing. Brown Brown lightly lighùy in in butter. butter. leg to to keep keep in in all leg Moisten with with a a bottle bottle of of good good red red Bordeaux Bordeaux rvine. wine . Add Add 22 Moisten carrots, 33 onions onions (1 (1 studded studded with with 22 cloves), cloyes), aa bouEtet bouquet garni carrots, of thyme, thyme, bay bay leaves leaves and and basil. basil. Cover Coyer and and stew stew slowly, slowly, but but of in such such aa way way as as to to reduce reduce the the stock stock to to aa Demi-glace Demi-glace (see in SAUCE). Cook Cook for for 1| 1t hours. hours. Have Have ready ready lf li litres litres (2| (2i pints, pints, SAUCE). 3i pints) pints) perfectly perfectly skinned skinned cloves cloyes of of garlic. garIic. Boil Boil in in aa lot of 3| water. Drain. Drain. Cool Cool under under runningwaterand running water and saut6 sauté in in the the best best water. butter. Keep Keep them them hot. hot. Drain Drain the the leg leg of of mutton. mutton. Put Put itit on on aa butter. serving dish. dish. Boil Boil down down the the stock stock with with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons serving Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Espagnole 'After taking taking out out the the vegetables vegetables and and the the bouquet bouquet garni, garni, 'After strain the the stock stock through through muslin. muslin. Pour Pour over over the the joint. joint. Dress Dress strain tablespoon Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) the garlic garlic with with I1 tablespoon the and aa small small pinch pinch of of Cayenne Cayenne pepper. pepper. Serve Serve in in aa sauceboat sauceboat and or silver silver bowl.' bowl.' or

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Howtotocut cutaaleg legofmutton: How of mutton: Lefl :p:rallelto parallel to Left: the bone the bone Righi: :perpendicular perpendicularto to Rigftr thebone bone the (LArousse) (Larousse)

614 614

MUTTON ue MOUTON r,rouroN À A LA mutton ià la la bouhngCre. bouJangère. GIGOT Leg of muttm crcor DE r,A, mutton àd la BOULANGÈRE - Proceed Proceed as as for for Shoulder sourn{ciRE Shoulder of of mutton

g. (4 oz., 75 g. tossed in butter, 75 chopped mushrooms tossed oz.,2f (4!2± cups) chopped in butter (3 oz., butter cooked very slowly slowly in chopped onions cooked oz.,li cup) cup) chopped (3 garlic, pa.rsley, aa touch of of garlic, until tender, tender, 1I tablespoon chopped parsley, (see (6 tablespoons, sance (see c,rp) Espagnole sauce and 1 dl. dl. (6 and tablespoons, scant 1 i cup) Season with with salt, salt, tomato. Season SAUCE) strongly flavoured with tomato. pepper and spices. thoroughly. Bind with 2 or 3 eggs. Mix thoroughly. line aa preparatioru for moussaka. Completely Completely line the moussaka. Final preparations for the aubergine skins, mould with with the skins, the aubergine large large buttered charlotte mould buttered charlotte layers mould with alternate alternate layers Fill this purple side this mould side downward. FiIl fried aubergine. aubergine. Press Press these of fried round slices of mince mince and and round slices of aubergine Cover with aubergine ingredients weIl well down into the mould. Cover greaseproof of buttered greaseproof lay a sheet skins. On sheet of On top of the skins laya pan of water and and cook cook the the paper. Stand mould in in aa pan of water paper. Stand the the mould for 1I hour. moussaka in in the oven for the oven on to to aa out on turning out minutes before Let few minutes before turning Let itit stand stand for aa few serving dish. serving dish. made may be If aubergines moussaka may be made are not available available the the moussaka aubergines are (zucchini, courgettes). courgettes). with very very smaIl small vegetable marrows (zucchini, portions served restaurant, the the For served in in aa restaurant, For individual individual portions mould. moussaka is large rectangular rectangular mould. in aa large is usually made in gar ragofit garA ragoût Navarin of DE MOUTON MouroN -- A NAVARIN DE of mutton. mutton NAVARIN nished with different vegetables. vegetables. NAvARIN DE Dts MOUTON MouroN AUX AUx Navarin of nutton witb with potatoes. NAVARIN of mutton poMMEs DE given to POMMES Ragofrt of of mutton mutton àd la la Name given to Ragoût TERRE -- Name DE TERRE (see below). pork (see bonne thout belly of pork below). cooked wi without belly of bonne femme femrne cooked printrnier. NAVARIN MouroN Navarin NAVARIN DE DE MOUTON Navarin of mutton printanier. of mutton pRTNTANTER - The mutton cut into PRINTANIER cut into of mutton chuck and and shoulder shoulder of - The chuck wittr salt, pieces oz.) Season Season with salt, pieces each about 60 ffi g.e. (2t weighing about each weighing Qi oz.) fine sugar. pepper and and aa pinch of offine sugar. (3 tablespoons) With or butter, fat or butter, stock fat With 22 tablespoons tablespoons) stock tablespoons (3 (3 brown the pieces thoroughly. with 22 tablespoons Sprinkle with tablespoons (3 the pieces thoroughly. Sprinkle tablespoons) oven. Add lightly in in the Add and brown lightly the oven. flour, mix, mix, and tablespoons) flour, enough meat. Bring Bring to boil, to the the boil, water to cover the the meat. enough tepid to cover tepid water stirring tan tly, to roux isis weIl well blended blended ensure that the roux to ensure that the constantly, stirring cons garlic, into clove crushed crushed garlic, chopped tomatoes,1 into the Add chopped tomatoes, I clove the stock. stock. Add (q.v.). and a bouquet garni v.). Bring and simmer garni (q. cover and simmer Bring to to the tle boil, boil, cover andabouquet in pieces of meat and and strain Remove the of meat strain hour. Remove the pieces oven for in the oven for 1I hour. the hot water water 10 detach bone bone in hot to detach Rinse the saucepan in the sauce. sauce. Rinse the saucepan splinters. in the back in the and the ingredienb and the sauce sauoe back all the the ingredients splinters. Put Put ail pan. more and and add add smaIl onions, small onions, pan. Bring once more Bring to to the the boil boil once quartered and new new like olives quartered carrots, olives and look like to look cut to carrots, turnips turnips cut potatoes. for 1I hour. hour. potatoes. Continue very slowly, slowly, for still very cooking, still Continue cooking, (4 oz., g. (4 Add peas and 100 g. (6 oz., and 100 oz., g. (6 cup) shelled shelled peas 175 g. Add 175 oz.,l1 scant scant cup) t1 cup) French navarin, still still cooking the the navarin, Finish cooking French beans. beans. Finish "rrp) very simmering gently, for hour. further 1 very gently, for aa further simmering I hour. Skim the navarin and serve. all fat fat off offthe navarin and serve. Skim aIl Noisettes These small MouroN -- These small NoIsETTEt DE DE MOUTON Noisettes of mutton. NOISETTES of mutton. pieces noisette isis leg, since pieces should nolx of of the the leg, since noisette cut from from the the noix should be be cut the practice, however, very however, these these very noix. In ln practice, of noix. diminutive of the diminutive

boulangère (see below). boulanglre

Braised leg of mutton. GIGOT MOUTON BRAISÉ Braised crcor DE DB MouroN sRAtst -- Proceed of mutton

for Erarsed Braised shoulder shoulder of ofmutton as for mutton (see below).

Leg of muttm mutton ià Ia la bretonne. on MOUTON nourox ÀA Leg bretonne. GIGOT clcor DE

LA r,c,

diluted Roast a leg of mutton. Serve with it the the diluted pan juices with a little fat left in them. Garnish with white Purde of smaIl kidney beans à haricot beans, small ri la bretonne, or Purée haricot beans àd la bretonne The garnish must haricot bretonne (see BEANS). The

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BRETONNE BREToNNE

be served separately. separately. (venison style). Leg of chevreuil (venison style). GIGOT clcor DE en cheweuil of mutton mutton en the chump MOUTON EN EN cHEvREUn CHEVREUIL - Bone leg of MouroN Bone the end of aa leg chump end mutton and fix the bone into the so that it prothe smaller end so jecs. jects. Completely the meat with best meat and and interlard interlard with Completely skin skin the

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lardoons, as for a haunch of roebuck. ofroebuck. as fora (see MARIPut the the leg to steep in in aa special Put leg to special marinade (see NADE). in this marinade for sorne NADE). Leave it some time, depending il il on the tenderness of the the meat and days in and on the weather (2 days summer and 4 to 55 days in winter). winter). summer Dry the leg of mutton in aa clotho it. Serve Serve Roebuck cloth. Roast it. (se, SAUCE) separately. sauce or Poivrade Poivrade sauce (see separately. Bone the crcor DE DE MOUTON MouroN RÔTI. n6tt. Bone the Roast leg leg of mutton. mutton GIGOT chump (U.S. loin) leg. For For cooking cooking time of the time see see loin) end chump (U.S. end of the leg. CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average cooking timefor roasts. Serve the diluted pan juices with it. It is customary to leg near near the the projecting bones stud the the leg to stud with 2 or 33 smaIl small cloves of garlic. Cold leg of mutton is me way as roast leg as roast is cooked in the sa same of mutton. garnished only with watercress. mutton. It is served served plain, garnished Leg la cuiller. clcor DE DE or àI la cuiller. GIGOT Leg of of mutton mutton de de sept sep heures heures or MOUTON (A LA leg and cut t l CUILLER) cut MouToN DE SEPT HEURES (À cult lrn) -- Trim the leg sBpT HEUlŒi off the way, but cook for for the end of the the bone. Braise in the usual way, a long time at at aa moderate temperature. After cooking, this mutton should be it can be so so tender that it be be cut with a spoon. spoon. Serve and boiled down. down. strained and Serve with the the braising liquor, strained AlI garnishes indicated for Braised Braised rib rib or or Shoulder Shoulder of of All garnishes indicated for mutton (see (see below) are cuiller. for Leg Lq ofmutton of mutton àd la la cuiller. are suitable for pB MOUTON Leg DrouroN ÀA LA la Soubise. Soubise. GIGOT clcor DE t,c, Leg of of mutton mutton àI la SOUBISE and braise way. souBrsE-- Trim Trim the braise in the usual way. the leg of mutton and When it is is half-cooked, drain drain it. it. Strain Strain the the briasing stock. stock. Put pan. Surround with 22 kg. kg. Surround with leg back Put the in the the braising pan. the leg back in (41 ions. Pour (4+ lb.) parboiled quartered on on the onions. Pour on the braising lb) parboiled stock. all together. together. stock. Finish cooking aIl Drain and add add in aa saucepan, saucepan, and Crush them them in Drain the the onions. onions. Crush 250 (9 oz., g. (9 chicken soup. rioe cooked cooked in in clear clear chicken soup. 250 g. l{ cup) cup) rice oz., l± Simmer for fine sieve Rub the 10 minutes. Rub the onions through aa fine sieve for 10 (or through aa tammy cloth, pur6e, cloth, pressing hard). Heat Heat this this purée, and dish on aa serving senring dish it. Glaze Glaze the the joint. Put itit on and add add butter to it. butter to and and pour over of stock, strained and few tablespoons stock, strained it aa few tablespoons of and pour over it boiled and with the stock and necessary. Serve Serve with the braising stock down, if if necessary. boiled down, the (onion purée). pur6e). soubise (onion the soubise The with the way, with the in the usual way, the usual The leg leg can can also also be be braised braised in soubise separately as for this recipe for in the this prepared.separately indicated in the recipe as indicated soubise prepared purée (see PURÉE). pur6e (see PUREE). Mutton FoIE, COEUR coELJR ET r.r spleen FOIE, liver, heart heart and and spleen. lamb's liver, Muttm and and lamb's RATE parts constitute called the what isis called the These parts constitute what MouroN -- These RATE DE DE MOUTON pluck. Sheep ragoûts. is used mostly in rnragofits. lamb pluck is used mostly Sheep and and lamb Moussaka (Rumanian cookery). MoI-tssAKA DE DE cookery). MOUSSAKA Moussaka of of mutton muttm (Rumanian MOUTON prepared in cooked Using cooked in advance. advance. Using MoUToN -- Ingredients Ingredients prepared mutton lb., 4!- cups) mince. mince. mutton make make 1I kg. ke. (2± Qilb.,4+cups) Cook and lightly lightly lengthwise and halved lengthwise aubergines, halved Cook in in oil oil 66 aubergines, scored it. Keep Keep the and chop chop it. the knife, Scoop Scoop out out the the pulp and with aa knife. scored with skins line the mould. skins to to line the mould. Cook and peeled aubergines, cut into into slices slices and aubergines, cut in oil oil 22 peeled Cook in chopped. g. 125 g. also 125 mince, and and add add also mutton mince, chopped. Add Add to to the the mutton

Noisettes of mutton Armenonville

615

MUTTON MUTTON delicate cuts cuts are are taken taken from the the fillet (loin) (loin) or the rib of of the animal. animal. Noisettes Noisettes cut from from the the rib rib are more more regular regular in shape than those those cut cut from from the the loin. These These may may be be saut6ed sautéed or grilled, grilled, and served with with all ail garnishes nishes suitable suitable for Mutton Mutton cutlets cutlets and, and Noisettes of of lamb (see LAMB). LAMB). Noisettes Noisettes of of mutton muttoo Armenonville. Armenonville. NorsETTEs NOISETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON ARMENoNvInT Sa uté the noisettes noisettes in in butter. butter. Set each one ARMENONVILLE -- Saut6 on on aa small small Anrw Anna potato potato (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) cooked cooked in in aa tartlet. tarti et. Garnish Garnish with with cocks'combs cocks' combs and and cocks' cocks' kidneys, kidneys, alternated alternated with with the the noisettes, noisettes, and and morels morels in in cream, cream, piled piled in in the the middle middle of the the dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, heat heat and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. Noisettes Noisettes of of mutton mutton Nichette. Nichette. NorsETTEs NOISETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON NTcHETTE NICHETTE -- GriU Grill the the noisettes. noisettes. Put Put each each one one on on a a bed bed of browned browned Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). On On top top of of each each put put aa large large grilled grilled mushroom. mushroom. In In the the middle middle of of the the dish dish heap heap morels morels saut6ed sautéed with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Pour Pour concentrated concentrated veal veal stock. stock, enriched enriched with with butter. butter, round round the the dish. dish.

Bring to the boil. Cover the pan. Cook in a hot oven for about I1 hour. Remove Remove the bouquet and serve serve in a deep dish. dish. This This stew stew has has no no thickening other other than than the the potatoes, potatoes, which which in cooking cooking should thicken the stock sufficiently. sufficiently. Ragoftt Ragoût of mutton ià Panglaise l'anglaise tr II flrish (Irish stew). stew). nlco0r RAGOÛT on DE MouroN MOUTON A À r'.tNclqlse L'ANGLAISE - Prepare Prepare the stew as indicated in the previous previous recipe, but but using only only half half the quantity of of potatoes and onions. on ions. Boil the stew for 35 minutes. Drain Drain on on a a sieve. sieve. Put the the pieces pieces of meat meat back back in in the saucepan. saucepan. Cover with 400 g. (14 o2.,2$ oz., 2t cups) cups) potatoes cut into and 24 into ovals ovals and 24 small small parboiled parboiled onions. onions. Pour strained cooking stock stock over all ail these these ingredients. ingredients. Cover, and cook cook in the the oven oven for 35 35 to to 40 40 minutes. Serve Serve in in a deep dish. dish. Rago0t Ragoût of mutton mutton with barley. buley. RAcoOr RAGOÛT pr DE rraouroN MOUTON A À L'oRGE L'ORGE -- Use Use the same same ingredients ingredients and and procedure procedure as as for Rago,frt Ragoût of mutton mutton with with white white haricot haricot beans beans (se (see below), below), leaving the belly and and substituting for the the beans beans 150 g. leaving out the (5 (5 oz., oz., scant cup) cup) pearl pearl barley, barley, previously previously cooked cooked in in salt water water for for I1 hour. hour. The The cooking cooking water water of of the the barley barley should be be used to to moisten moisten the ragofit. ragoût. used Ragoût of of mutton mutton with with red red beans. beans. nlc,o0r RAGOÛT DE DE MouroN MOUTON AUx AUX Rago&t HARrcors HARICOTS RouGEs ROUGES -- Proceed Proceed u as for for Rago,frt Ragoût with with white white haricot haricot (see below), below), substituting substituting for for the the white white beans beans the the same same beans (see beans quantity quantity of of red red beans, beans, three-parts three-parts cooked cooked in red red wine. wine. Ragoût of mutton mutton with white white haricot haricot beans. beans. nAc,ofr RAGOÛT os DE Rago0t MouroN MOUTON Ar.rx AUX HARrcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS -- This ragofit ragoût should not not be be confused confused with haricot haricot of of mutton. mutton. Brown in in fat 125 125 g. g. (* (t lb., lb., I1 cup) cup) diced diced and and blanched blanched belly belly Brown of of pork. pork. Take Take these these lardoons lardoons out out of of the the pan pan and and in in the the same same fat fat brown brown 750 750 g. g. (l| to to lili lb.) lb.) mutton mutton cut cut into into square square pieces pieces and seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. and Oust flour Hour over over the the ragofrt ragoût and and proceed proceed as as indicated indicated for for the the Dust first stage stage of of Ragofrt Ragoût of ofmutton mutton dà la la bonne bonnefemme femme (see, (see below). below). first Drain the the mutton mutton and and put put the the pieces pieces back back in in the the pan. pan. Add Add Drain litre (scant (scant pint,2t pint, cups) white white beans, beans, three-parts three-parts cooked, cooked, cups) It titre and the the browned browned lardoons. lardoons. Skim Skim all ail fat fat off off the the sauce. sauce. Strain Strain and and and pour pour over over the the ragofit. ragoût. Cover and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for for l| 1t hours. hours. Cover Ragoût of of mutton mutton ià la la bonne bonne femme. femme. uco0'r RAGOÛT DE DE MouroN MOUTON Ragofft LA soNNE BONNE FEMME FEMMECut into ioto square square pieces pieces 7750 g. (l! to to l1 I~ lb.) lb.) AÀr,q, 50 g. - Cut mutton. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and brown brown with with I1 mutton. quartered quartered onion onion in in cooking cooking fat. fat. Pour Pour off off some sorne of of the the fat. fat. Add aa pinch pinch of of fine fine sugar sugar (this (this sugar, sugar, turning turning into into caramel, caramel, Add will give give the the necessary necessary colouring colouring to to the the sauce), sauce), and and 22 tabletablewill spoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour. fiour. Mix. Mix. Add Add I1 small small clove clove of of spoons crushed garlic. garlic. Moisten Moisten with with I1litre litre (lf (Ii pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) crushed water or or clear clear stock. stock. Add Add 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant * cup) cup) water

ot

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Noisettes Noisettes of ofmutton mut tondàlala tyrolienne tyrolienne

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Noisettes Noisettes of of mutton mutton à ln la tyrolienne. tyrolienne. NorsETTEs NOISETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON AÀ LA rynorrENNr TYROLIENNE-- Saut6 Sauté the the noisettes noisettes in in butter. butter. Set Set each each on on aa small small Anna Anna potato potato (see (see POTATOES), POT A TOES), and and decorate decorate the the top top with with aa spoonful spoonful of of Tomato Tomato fondue fondue (see (see TOMATO, TOMA TO, FONFON-

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DUE). DUE). Fill Fill the the middle middle of of the the plate plate with with fried fried onion on ion rings. rings. Pour Pour the the cooking cooking stock stock over over tlrc the noisettes. noisettes. Mutton Mutton pie pie (English (English cookery) cookery) -- See See PIE. PIE. Pistach Pistache of of muttm mutton or or mutton mutton à la la catalane catalane (Languedoc (Languedoc cookery). cookery). prsrAcHE PISTACHE DE DE MouroN MOUTON (rrlouroN (MOUTON A Àm LA clr,c,rANE) CATALANE) Made Made from from boned boned shoulder shoulder of of mutton mutton or or part part of of the the leg. leg. The Thedistinctive distinctivefeature feature of ofthis thisdish dishisis that thatititisis garnished garnished with with aa considerable considerable amount amount of of garlic. garlic. (See (See Shoulder Shoulder of ofmutton mutton dà la la catalane, catalane, below). below). Ragoft of mutton. mutton. n,c.co0rs RAGOÛTS DE DE MouroN MOUTON - Ragotts Ragoûts are are RagoOt of made made with with the the shoulder, shoulder, neck, neck, neck neck chops chops and and breast breast of of the the sheep. sheep. These These are are ffimmed, trimmed, boned boned and and cut cut into into pieces pieces weighweighing ingup up to to 100 100g. g. (3 (3 to to 4 3t or.). oz.). Ragofrts Ragoûts may may be be prepared prepared in in white white or or brown brown stock. stock. Different Different vegetables, vegetables, fresh fresh or or dried, dried, and and rice rice or or barley barley are are served with with them. them. served Ragott Ragoût of of mutton mutton à l'anglaise l'ang1aise I1 Oridr (Irish stew). stew). nec,o0r RAGOÛT os DE MouroN MOUTON AÀ r'rlNcLqlss L'ANGLAISE -- Cut Cut into into pieces pieces of ofequal equal sire size 750 750 g.g. (li toto li lb.) lb.) mutton. mutton. Put Put these these in in aa saucepan saucepan in in alternating alternating layers layers with with 500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz., oz., 33cups) cups) sliced sliced potatoes potatoes and and 200 200 g.g. (7 (7 oz.,lf oz., licups) cups) sliced sliced or orchopped chopped onions. onions. Put Putaabouquet bouquetgarii garni in in the the middle middle of of the the pan. pan. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten with with enough enough water water just just to to cover cover the the meat meat and and Moisten potatoes. potatoes.

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Ragoûtof ofmutton withwhite whiteharicot haricotbeans beans Ragofit mutton with

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MUTTON MUTTON Tomato Tomatopurie purée(see (see SAUCE) SA U CE) 100 100g.g. (4(4 o2.,4 OZ., 1cup) cup) fresh, fresh, pulped pulped bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Cover Cover and and cook cook in in the the tomatoes, anda and a bouquet tomatoes, oven for for an an hour. ho ur. oven mutton on Drain the thepieces piecesof ofmutton on aa sieve. sieve. Remove Remove the the skin skin and and Drain cooking. Put bone separated splintersofofbone separated during duringcooking. Put the the meat meat back back splinters cups) in g. (14 (14 o2.,2$ OZ., cups) potatoes potatoes cut cut to to look look in the the pan. pan. Add Add 400 400 g. like big big olives, olives, 24 24 smill small glazedonions glazed onions and and 125 125 g. g. (+ (t lb., lb., I1cup) cup) like pork cut cut into into little little squares. squares. blanched and and browned browned belly belly of of pork blanched pour over over the the ragofrt. ragoût. Skim all ail fat fat off off the the sauce. sauce. Strain Strain and and pour Skim Bring to to the the boil. boil. Cover Cover and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for for I1 hour. hour. Bring Ragoût of of mutton mutton with witb celeriac. celeriac. nc'c'o0r RAGOÛT DE DE MouroN MOUTON AU AU Ragofit CÉLERI-RAVE -- Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated fot for Ragofrt Ragoût of of mutton mutton dà cfrsnt-RrvE la bonne bonne femme, femme, substituting substituting for for the the garnish garnish indicated indicated an an la equal quantity quantity ofceleriac of celeriac cut cut into into large large oval oval pieces pieces and parparequal boiled. boiled. catalane. uco0r RAGOÛT Ragoût of of mutton mutton with with chick-peag eruek-peas, Ià la catalane. Ragofft DE MouroN MOUTON AUx AUX Po$ POIS cHIcHEs CHICHES (A (À r,l LA clurANE) CATALANE) -- Proceed as as DE mutton dà la bonne of Ragofit Ragoût of ofmutton bonnefemme femme,,ursing using for the the first first stage stage of for and little more Tomato Tomato purie purée (see SAUCE, Tomato Tomato sauce) and aa little seasoning liberally liberally with with crushed garlic. garlic. Put Put the the pieces pieces of of seasoning separately. mutton back back in the pan. Add chick-peas, chick-peas, cooked separately. mutton cooking in Strain the sauce sauce and pour pour it over over the dish' dish. Finish cooking Strain oven. a slow oven. AUx MouroN AUX with kohl-rabi. kohl-rabi. RAGoOl RAGOÛT DE DE MOUTON Ragoût of mutton with Ragoft Ragofrt of mutton proceed as a~ indicated indicated for Ragoût CHOUX-RAVES - Proceed cHoux-RAVDs like big look like to look cut to kohl-rabi, cut with celeriac, with celeriac, substituting kohl-rabi, olives and parboiled, parboiled, for celeriac. celeriac. olives RAGoOT milanaise. RAGOÛT la milanaise. macaroni, ài la Ragoût of muttm mutton with macaroni, Ragolit (A LA as for Proceed as rrnrnNllse) -- proceed DE MouroN MOUTON AU r.l MILANAISE) MAcARor.n (À AU MACARONI DE using aa bonnae femme, using first stage of Ragoût of mutton àd la bonnaefemme, Rag ofit ofmutton the first (se SAUCE) and cooking cooking purie (see SAUCE) and larger quantity of Tomato purée the completelY in one stage. the meat completely flat in aa flat and trimmed, trimmed, in Put mutton, drained and pie-es of mutton, Put the the pieces in salt salt half-boiled in earthenware dish. macaroni half-boiled with macaroni dish. Cover with (2| inches), then and then inches)' and water, drained, cut of 6 cm. crn. (21 cut into lengths of6 into the the grated Parmesan Parmesan into cooked Thoroughly mix grated in butter. Thoroughly cooked in fine through aa fine macaroni. Pour strained through sauce strained the sauce over this this the Pour over in the the slowly in sieve, and brown brown slowly butter, and melted butter, with melted sprinkle with sieve, sprinkle oven. oven. I-a on MOUTON uouroN ÀA LA Ragoût nA'co0r DE la niçoise. nigoise. RAGOÛT mutton ài la Ragofit of of mutton (lt toto lili lb.) lb.) g. (lt pieces 750 NIçoISE 750 g. into square iquare pieces cut into Bone and and cut rorgorJr -- Bone and it, and over it, flour over shoulder in oil, oil, sprinkle sprinkle flour Brown in mutton. Brown of mutton. shoulder of add garlic. of crushed crushed garlic. cloves of add 22 cloves down. Boil down. wine. Boil (f pint, white wine. t cup) white Moisten pint,3 lj dl. dl. (t with It Moisten with the Add stock to tablespoons (t$ meat, 44 tablespoons the meat, cou.r"up) io cover cleaistocli enough clear Add enough (q'v-)' garni (q.v.). cup) (se SAUCE) and aa bouquet bouquet garni purie (see SAUCE) and Tomato purée cup) Tomato put the the and put Cook ur. Drain meat, trirn trim it,it, and the meat, Drain the hour. for one one ho Cook for potatoes and and new potatoes pieces 30small small new pan. Add about 30 Add about pieces back in the the pan. back in pour itit over over 12 andpour sauoe and thesauce Strain the onions. Strain browned onions. i2 small small browned 45minutes. minutes. the for 45 oven for the oven cook inin the and cook Cover and mutton. Cover the mutton. vegetable Without verysmail small vegetable add to to itit44 very ragofrt, add theragoût, stirring the Without stirring Cook inin marrows, oil.Cook browned ininoil. and browned diced and peeled, coarsely coarsely diced marrows, peeled, aa slow 15 minutes. minutes. for 15 oven for slow oven rA. Ragoftt osMOUTON MouroN ÀALA paysanne. RAGOÛT RAGofrDE mutton àil lala paysanne. Rago0tof ofmutton PAYSANNE plvsllwn - - Proceed bonne mutton àdlalabonne of mutton for Ragoût Rago'frt of asfor Proceed as femme, and onionsand turnips,onions with carrots, carrots, turnips, meatwith cooking the the meat femme, cooking quartered potatoes. potatoes. quartered - This ragoût and onionsand turnips, onions withcarrots, carrots, turnips, made with also made This ragofitisisalso potatoes celery andpotatoes butter,and andtossed tossed inin butter, cutinto into triangles triangles and celerycut cut likeolives. looklike olives. cuttotolook Ragofit PRINMouroNPRINprintanier.RAGOÛT uc'ofr DEDEMOUTON mutton printanier. Rago&tofofmutton TANIER printanier. of muttonprintanier. Navarinofmutton forNavarin namefor Anothername TANIER - - Another Ragoût AURIZ Rtz- MotrroNAU DEMOUTON RAGoOTDE rice.RAGOÛT withrice. muttonwith Ragofttofofmutton Proceed ofmutton mutton Ragofitof forRagoût ingredientsasasfor withthe thesame sameingredients ProcJedwith \Vith cup) oz',~tcup) 150g.g.(5(5OZ., barley150 forthe thebarley substituting for withbar/ey, barley,substituting rice, serving' beforeserving. minutesbefore 30minutes ragofit30 addedtotothe theragoût rice,added Rib muttonisis Ribofofmutton MouroN- - Rib clnn6DEDEMOUTON mutton.CARRÉ Ribofofmutton. usually braised roastedororbraised alsobeberoasted canalso intocutlets. cutlets.ItItcan dividedinto usuallydivided

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(Karquet) mutton (Karquel) Ribs of of mutton Ribs

as served as It should should be be served vegetable. It garnished with with vegetable. and garnished whole, and whole, not include include mutton should should not rib of of mutton A rib course. A intermediate course. intermediate chump. from the the chump. starting from cutlets, starting to 99 cutlets, more than than 88 to more the Remove the chuck. Remove at the the chuck. rib : Sever Sever at whole rib: of aa \Vhole Preparation of Preparation remove and remove meat, and covers the the meat, which covers parchment-like skin skin which thin th in parchment-like Bard the the cutlet bones. bones. Bard of the the cutlet tips of Loosen the the tips backbone. Loosen the backbone. the of with severallengths several lengths of pork fat on with fat tied tied on with pork meat with skinned meat skinned string. string. pn (Car0me's recipe). recipe). cARRÉ clnnf DE I'ancienne (Carême's of mutton mutton ài l'ancienne Rib of Rib from the mutton rtbs of 'Cut two A r'lNcIENNn MouroN MOUTON À L'ANCIENNE -- 'Cut two nbs of mutton from the (rib) from neck. the neck. (loin) to from the cutlet (rib) fourth cutlet to the the fourtb fillet (loin) fillet after fillet, after the fillet, covering the all the the skin skin covering remove 'Completely rem 'Completely ove ail Detach to to fillet. Detach and trim the fillet. trim the backbone, and removed the the backbone, having removed having ribsatat the top the top the ribs covering the meat covering the meat width of of aa thumb thumb the the width the pair of the cutlets so so that that the of cutlets each pair ofeach one bone bone of Saw through through one end. Saw end. ribs of the theribs one of long. Interlard Interlard one inches long. are only only 2t inches remainder are remainder parsleyinto into the the of parsley Thread sprigs sprigs of lardoons. Thread with best best square square lardoons. with other. other. into cutinto anonion onion cut ofan composed of marinade composed inaa marinade 'Put the ribs in the ribs 'Put glassof of halfaaglass pepper and andhalf leaf,salt, salt, pepper bayleaf, parsley, thyme, thyme,bay rings, parsley, rings, good oil. oil. good putitit on onthe the serving, put before serving, hour before anhour 'Three-quarters of ofan 'Three-quarters frequently. paper. Baste Baste frequently. of buttered buttered paper. sheet of Wrap ininaasheet spit. Wrap spit. pour glaze, serve andpour serveand unwrap, glaze, serving,unwrap, beforeserving, minutes before Five minutes Five it.' overit.' clear stock stockover c!ear rl uouroN ÀALA cmnfDEosMOUTON boulangire. CARRÉ mutton àI lalaboulangère. Ribofofmutton Rib boulambàdlalabouoflamb forShoulder Shoulderof Proceedasasfor BouLANGiRE- - Proceed BOULANGÈRE (seeLAMB). LAMB). langire(see langère r.A luouroN Ài LA oeMOUTON cARRfDE bretonne.CARRÉ muttonài lala bretonne. niUofofmutton Rib Serve spit.Serve onthe thespit. ovenororon ribininthe theoven Roastthe therib BREToNNE - - Roast BRETONNE (see bretonne(see beansàdlalabretonne kidneybeans orsmall smallkidney beansor whitebeans withwhite witb roastseparately. separately. gravyofofthe tl-reroast Servethe thegravy BEANS).Serve BEANS). rib withrib alsobebeserved (seePURÉE) servedwith canalso PUREE) can bretonne(see Puriebretonne AAPurée mutton. ofmutton. of rl rraoutor'rÀALA clnn6DEoPMOUTON boulangire. CARRÉ mutton à i lalaboulangère. Ribofofmutton Rib ribinina a andtied tiedrib bardedand thetrimmed, trimmed, barded Putthe SRAI$- -Put MouroNBRAISÉ MOUTON anda asliced porkskin, sliced skin,and panlined withpork linedwith braisingpan buttered butteredbraising Adda a butter.Add tossedininbutter. havebeen beentossed whichhave carrotwhich andcarrot onionand onion gentlyfor for1515 cookgently andcook Coverand garni.Season. Season.Cover bouquet bouquetgarni. down Boildown wine.Boil whitewine. pint,~ tcup) cup)white MoistenHl*dl.dl.(i(+pint, minutes.Moisten minutes. pint"lilfcups) cups)thickened thickened with3 3dl.dl.(t(*pint, Moistenwith essence.Moisten totoananessence. for4545 ovenfor theoven andcook cookininthe Coverand clearsoup. soup.Cover veal vealstock stockororclear joint. thejoint. thesize sizeofofthe accordingtotothe hour,according minutes minutestoto1 Ihour,

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MUTTON MUTTON Drain the rib. Glaze, and garnish it as indicated. pour over the rib. Glaze and garnish it as indicated. Pour over itDrain the reduced and strainedbraising braisingstock stockwith withthe fat thefat it the reduced and strained skimmed off skimmed off. Garnishes for rib of munon. Most garnishes indicated for Garnishes for rib of mutton. Most garnishes indicated for Baron of mutton are suitable for this cut. It can also be garBaron of mutton are suitable for this cut. It can also he garnished (these ganrishes are very suitable for the riU; riith nished (these garnishes are very suitable for the rib) with pur6es offresh or dried vegetables, especially pulses (lentils, purées of fresh or dried vegetables, especially pulses (Ientils, dried beans,etc.), etc.),risotto risottoand andpasta pastaprepared prepared inindifferent different dried beans, ways.

ways. As appropriate, these garnishes garnishesare arearranged arranged round roundthe the As appropria te, these meat or served separately. meat or served separately. Cold rib of mutton c,lr.nn DE MouroN FRorD - Roast the Cold rib of mutton. cARRÉ DE MOUTON FROID - Roast the rib the oven oven or oron onthe thespit, andleave spigand leaveuntil untilcold. cold. rib inin the jelly. Serve Trim. Glaze with jelly. Serveon onaalong long dish. dish.Garnish, Garnish, atat Trim. Glaze with each end of the dish, with bunches of watercress and, along each end of the dish, with bunches of watercress and, along the sides, with chopped jelly. the sides, with chopped jelly. In England England itit isis customary customary totoserve servemint mint sauce sauce with with cold cold In lamb or mutton (see SAUCE, Cold Sauces). lambor mutton (see SAUCE, Cold Sauces). psMOUTON Rib of of mutton muttm ài lala Maintenon. Maintenon. CARRÉ c.q,RR6 DE ruouroN ÀALA rA, Rib MATNTENoN Proceed as as for for Saddle Saddle of of mutton mutton àdlalaMainMain_ MAINTENON -- Proceed tenon (see below). tenon (see below). Rib of of mutton mutton ài l'orientale. I'orientale. CARRÉ c.lnnf DE DE MOUTON MouroN ÀA L'ORIENr'onrnNRib TALE - Trim a rib of mutton and braise in the usual wav. TALE - Trim a rib of mutton and braise in the usual way. Drain it. it. Garnish Garnish along along the the sides sides with with small small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed Drain (q.v.) of with salpicon (q.v.) (lamb's) liver, of sheep's sheep's (Iamb's) liver, sautéed saut6ed in in with aa salpicon butter, blended blended with with truck thick brown brown stock stoek with with aa salpicon salpicon of of butter, peppers cooked sweet peppers cooked in in oil oil added added to to it, it, and and with with small small sweet artichokes, filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of of onions onions cooked cooked in in butter butter artichokes, until very very tender. tender. Garnish Garnish each each end end of of the the serving serving dish dish with with until saffron-flavoured Pilaf of rice (see PILAF). rice (see PILAF). Serve Serve with with the the saffron-flavouredPilafof braising liquor. liquor. braising Roast rib rib of of mutton. mutton CARRÉ cannf DE DE MOUTON MouroN RÔTI nOn -- Trim Trim aU all skin skin Roast from the the rib. rib. Bard pork fat joint. Roast Bard with with pork fat and and tie tie the the joint. Roast in in the the from oven or or on on the the spit. spit. When When itit is is ready, ready, the the inside inside of of the the meat meat oven pinkish in should be be pinkish colour. in colour. should Garnistr with with watercress. watercress. Serve juices, with Serve with with its pan juices, its pan with Garnish the surplus surplusfat (See CULINARY skimmed off. off. (See CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, fat skimmed the Average cooking timefor tirne for roasts). roasts). Average cooking Roast rib rib of of mutton with various various garnishes. garnishes CARRÉ c.q,RR6 DE os Roast mutton with MouroN n6n -- Prepare and cook cook as as indicated indicated in in the the preMOUTON RÔTI Prepare and vious garnish indicated. the garnish indicated. Serve Serve Surround with with the vious recipe. recipe. Surround with slightly thickened, pan juices, juices, clear clear or or slightly thickened, according to with the the pan the the nature nature of of the the garnish. garnish. Garnishes of rmttton. Garnishes suitable suitable for roast roast rib rib of mutton. All AlI those indicated for Baron Baron of of mutton. mutton. cated for Saddle This cut is is most Saddle of of mutton muttoD. SELLE SELLE DE DE MouroN MOUTON - This commonly commonly roasted roasted and and sometimes sometimes braised braised (see (see CULINARY NARY METHODS). METHODS). It It provides provides an an interrnediate intermediate meat course. course. It It is is served served surrounded surrounded by by the desired desired garnish and with with the the pan pan juices, juices, clear clear or or thickened, depending on on the nature nature of of the the garnish. garnish. All Ail garnishes garnishes indicated indicated for RiD Rib or l-eg Leg of mutton are ofmutton are suitable suitable for for saddle saddle of of mutton. mutton. proceed Cold Cold saddle saddle of of mutton. mutton. sELLE SELLE FRoTDE FROIDE DE DE MouroN MOUTON -- Proceed as as for for Roast Roast of ofleg leg of ofmuf/on, mutton, served served cold. cold. Saddh of mutton mutton ià la la Maintenonr Maintenon. sELLE SELLE nn DE uouroN MOUTON A À ra LA Saddle of MAINTENoNmutton cut Trim aa saddle sadd le of ofmutton cut near near the the upper upper leg. leg. MAINTENON - Trim Braise is three-parts three-parts cooked. cooked. Strain Strain the the stblt stock and and Braise until until itit is leave leave the the meat meat to to cool cool in in it. it. Drain, Drain, and and cut cut thin thin long long slices slices inside inside the the saddle, saddle, leaving leaving the overhang on on either either side. side. Put Put these these slices slices back back inside inside thE the the overhang saddle saddle with with layers layers of of Maintenon Maintenon mixture mixture between between (see (see MXTURES), MIXTURES), all ailpressed pressed close close together, together, so soas as to to reshape reshape the the saddle. saddle. Cover Cover tvrth with Soubise Soubisepurde purée (se (see PUREE) PURÉE) bound bound with with egg. egg. Put Put the the saddle sadd le on on an an oven-proof oven-proof dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and pour pour on on melted meIted butter. butter. pouriound Pour round aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of the the strained strained braising braising stock. stock. Cook Cook in in aa slow slow oven top of of the the saddle saddle isis lightly lightly browned. browned. Serve Serve oven until until the the top with strained and and boiled boiled down. down. withititthe thebraising braisingstock, stock, strained

Shoulderofofmutton mutton Shoulder ballon enenballon

Saddleofmutton of muttonàdlaIaMaintenon Maintenozisisusually garnished with Saddle usuallygamished with braised vegeta vegetables. braised bles. Shoulderof ofmutton muttonenenballon ballon ororen Shou1der enmusette. musette.ÉPAULE fplurl DEos MouroN EN ENBALLON BALLoN(EN (mtMUSETTE) uusmre) - - Bone MOUTON Bonethe theshoulder. shoulder. season, and andshape shape ititinto intoaabail. ball.This season, Thistype rolledmutton typeof ofrolled mutton isis calleden enbal/on ballonor orenenmusette. musette.Braise called Braise the theshoulder shoulder ininthe the (seeCULINARY usual way way(see CULINARY METHODS). usual METHODS). Drain Drainand anduntie. untie. pourthe Glaze. Garnish Garnish according according totothe Glaze. therecipe recipe selected. selected.Pour the braising stock stockover over it. it. braising Shoulder of oflamb larnb en mbal/on ballonmay Shoulder may he bestuffed. stuffed. Shoulder of of mutton muttm ài lalabonne Shou1der bonre femme femmeJ.I.ÉPAULE fp,c,urrDE DEMOUTON MouroN rl BONNE soNNE FEMME rnulre - - Bone Bone the ÀA LA theshoulder shoulder and andseason. season. Stuffwith Stuffwith sausage meat. meat. Rolllengthwise Roll lengthwise and sausage and tie. Half-cookititininbutter tie. Ralf-cook butter or lard. lard. Put Put itit in in an an earthenware or earthenware dish dishlined lined with with 600 600g.g.(1(l lb. lb. oz, Ji potatoes cut cups) potatoes or new 55 OZ., cut to to look look Iike like big big olives olivesir'new $ cups) potatoes, 150 g.g. (5(5 OZ., generous cup) pota toes, 150 oz., generous cup) small small half-cooked half-cooked onions and (5 OZ., and 150 g. (5 150 g. generous cup) onions oz., generous cup) blanched blanched and and fried fried pork lardoons. pour on lardoons. Season Season these pork these ingredients ingredients weIl. well. Pour on melted melted butter. Add Add aa bouquet garni. Cook bouquet garni. butter. Cook inin aa moderate moderate oven, oven. basting frequently. frequently. basting Shoulder of Shou1der of mutton muttm ài lala bonne pr bonne femme femme II. II. ÉPAULE nplulr DE uouror* ÀA LA LA BONNE BoNNE FEMMEMOUTON FEMME - Trim Trim aa shoulder shoulder ofmutton. of mutton. Cut Cut offthe end of of the off the end the bone, do not bone, but but do not bone bone the meat. Brown the meat. Brown itit in in butter in in an an earthenware butter earthenware dish dish and and remove remove itit from from the the dish. dish. the same In the same butter, butter, lightly lightly brown (5 OZ., g. (5 150 g. brown 150 generous cup) oz., generous cup) blanched and blanched bout 20 and drained pork lardoons drained pork lardoons and· and aabout 20 small smali onions. Take these ingredients out the dish onions. out of ofthe dish and and put put back back the shoulder of mutton. 3t mutton. Surround Surround with (l lb. 55 OZ., g. (lIb. with 600 600 g. oz.,3t cups) quartered potatoes, potatoes, the the small small onions onions and and the the lardoons. lardoons. Pour butter over the the dish. dish. Season. Season. Cook Cook in in the the oven, oven, basting basting frequently. frequently. Shoulder of mutton Shou1der mutton ài la la bou1angère. boulanglre. ÉPAULE EpluLu DE or MOUTON uouroN ÀA LA BouLANcinE BOULANGÈRE -- Bone LA Bone the the shoulder, (Roll shoulder, season season inside. inside. (Roll lengthwise, if desired.) desired.) Tie. Tie. Cook for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Surround Surround (ll OZ., g. (II 2i cups) sliced onions or about with 300 g. oz.,2f about 20 20 smaU small onions tossed in butter. Season and and pour the the cooking cooking butter butter basting frequently. over them. Finish cooking in the oven, oven, basting frequently. Just before serving, serving, add aa few tablespoons Just tablespoons thickened thickened brown brown stock. stock. ÉPAULE DE MOUTON À Shou1der of mutton ià la bourgeoise. 6pnur.u Shoulder on uouroN A LA BouRcEorsn BOURGEOISE - Bone the the shoulder and and stuff stuff it it if if desired. Ll desired. When the joint is half-cooked, half-cooked, drain drain and and put put it it in Braise. When in another braising braising pan pan or or in in a a deep deep earthenware earthenware disi dish with another with 66 carrots (200 (200 grams, 7 oz.), cut cut to to look look like Iike big big olives olives smaU carrots small and half-cooked half-cooked in in butter, butter, 20 20 small smaU glazed onions (150 (150 and gJazed onions grams, 55 oz.),175 oz.), 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz.,lt oz., 11 cups) cups) coarsely coarsely diced diced belly bellyof grams, of pork, blanched blanched and and browned. browned. Moisten Moisten with with the the strained strained pork, cooking stock. stock. Cover Cover and and finish finish cooking cooking all ail together together in in the the cooking oven. oven. ÉPAULE Braised shoulden shou1der of of mutton mutton with with various varions garnishes garnishes. EplurE Braised Bone the the shoulder. shoulder. Season Season inside inside with with DE MouroN MOUTON sRArsE BRAISÉE - Bone Dts saltand and pepper. pepper. Roll Rolllengthwîse and tie. tie. salt lengthwise and

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MUTTON MUTTON The The sauce sauce for forpistache pistache of ofmutton mutton can can also also be be thickend thickend with with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. ps Shoulden Shoulder of of mutton motton ià la la chipolata. chipolata. fplur,e ÉPAULE DE uouroN MOUTON A À LA LA cHIpoLATA CHIPOLATA - Bone Bone and and braise. braise. Proceed Proceed as as for for Shouldu Shou/der of of mutton mutton dà la la bourgeorse, bourgeoise, garnishing garnishing with with chipolata chipolata sausages. sausages. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) Shoulder Shoulder of of muttm mutton tn in ielly. jelly. fpeurr ÉPAULE DE DE MouroN MOUTON rNr EN cnrfe GELÉEBone Bone the the shoulder. shoulder. Stutrwith Stuff with aa Fircforcemeat Fine forcemeat (see (see FORCEFORCEMEAT) MEAT) mixed mixed with with lean le an diced diced ham ham with with I1 or or 22 eggs eggs to to bind bind lengthwise and it. iL Roll Rolllengthwise and tie. tie. Put Put the the shoulder shoulder in in aa stock stock mixed mixed wth with mireporx mirepoix (q.v.). (q.v.). Cook Cook for for I1 hour. hour. Drain Drain the the meat meat and and leave leave it it to to cool cool under under aa weight. weight. Untie. Untie. Skim Skim off off surylus surplus fat fat from and strained strained aspic aspic from the the stock. stock. Mix Mix in in aa little little concentrated concentrated and jelly. Pour over over the the meat meat and and leave leave to to cool. cool. Put Put the the shoulder shoulder jelly. Pour in in an an earthenware earthenware dish dish on on aa foundation foundation of of jelly jelly set set firmly; firmly; cover coyer completely completely with with half-set half-set jelly. jelly. Leave Leave until until quite quite cold. cold. Serve Serve in in the the earthenware earthenware dish. dish. Shoulder Shoulder of of muttm mutton with with rice. rice. fpitulE ÉPAULE DE DE MouroN MOUTON AU AU RIz RIZthree-parts and tie. Bone. Bone. Roll Roll lengthwise lengthwise and rie. Braise Braise until until three-parts stock. thin stock. amount of cooked, cooked, moistening moistening with with aa fair fair amount of rather rather thin (1 lb. 3 oz'' g' (1 500 g. Add 500 another saucepan. Drain Drain and and put put it in in another saucepan. Add lb. 3 oz., stock. strained stock. with the Moisten with cups) parboiled 3| cups) 3! parboiled rice. rice. Moisten the strained all together. together Finish cooking ail Finish cooking DE MOUTON MouroN 6pAws DE braised" ÉPAULE muttoq braised. of mutton, shoulder of Stuffed shoulder inside. and season season inside. shoulder and Bone the the shoulder sRAtsfo - Bone FARcIE FARCIE BRAISÉE (see FORCEMEATS, Por& FORCEMEATS, Pork pork stuffing stufing (sec Fine pork with Fine Stuff with Stuff (5 oz., g. (5 cups) o2.,1| 150 g. with 150 mixed with or stuffingJine) stuffing,fine) mixed li cups) forcemeat or very tender tend€r and until very in bu butter cooked in onions cooked chopped onions Uer until 14 g.1I for 500 500 g. quantities are are for These quantities parsley. These chopped parsley. tableipoon chopped tablespoon with salt, salt, well with Season weil (1 lb. stuffing. Season generous 22 cups) cups) stuffing. lb. 33 oz., generous (1 and tie. tie. lengthwise and shoulder lengthwise Roll the the shoulder pepper and and spices. spices. Roll pepper with mutton with Braised mutton for Braised recipe for in the the recipe as indicated indicated in Braise as Braise garnishes. various garnishes. various Pour 'on bn the the preceding recipe. recipe. Pour in the the preceding as indicated indicated in Garnish as and strained. strained. down and boiled down stock, boiled braising stock, braising la bourguignonne. bouguignonne. en daube daube à la mutton en of mutton shoulder of Strffd shoulder Stuffed nour'culcNoNNE A LA Ll BOURGUIGNONNEDAUBts À EN DAUBE FARCIE EN MouroN FARCIE DE MOUTON 6plur.u DE ÉPAULE (see pork stuffing stuffing (see fine pork with fine Stuff itit with Bone the the shoulder. shoulder. Stuff Bone to this adding STUFFINGS), FOR FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS FOR STUFFINGS), ad ding to this 1I very tender, tender, 33 until very in butter butter until cooked slowly slowly in onion cooked chopped onion chopped (q.v.), and some and some (scant t cup) dry duxelles duxelles (q.v.), cup) dry tablespoons (scant tablespoons parsley. chopped parsley. chopped (en ballon musette, see see en musette, or en ballon or ball (en into aa bail Roll the the shoulder shoulder into Roll drain, half-cooked, drain, When itit isis half-cooked, wine. When red wine. in red and braise above), and braise in above), 2N g.gAdd 200 dish. Add earthenware dish. put itit in deep earthenware in aa deep and put untie and untie glazed 20 small smallglazed in butter, butter, 20 (7 oz., tossed in mushrooms tossed cups) mushrooms o2.,2 (7 2 cups) (4 oz., coarsely cup) coarsely or, 1I cup) 125 g.g. (4t (150 grams, grams,5 oz.\, 125 onions (150 onions 5 oz.), with Moisten with and'browned. pork, blanched blanched and· of pork, diced belly belly of browned. Moisten diced tabletablespoons (3(3 tableAdd 22 tablespoons stock. Add cooking stock. the strained strained cooking the flour-andwith flour-andSeal with dish. Seal thedish. Cover the brandy. Coyer blazing brandy. spoons) blazing spoons)

Put itit in in aa buttered buttered braising braising pan pan lined lined with with pork pork skin skin or or Put bacon rinds, rinds, carrots carrots and and onions onions sliced sliced and and tossed tossed in in butter. butter. bacon Surround the the shoulder shoulder with with its its bones bones and and trimmings trimmings cut cut into into Surround small pieces pieces and and tossed tossed in in butter. bu tter. Add Add aa latge large bouquet bouquet garni garni small (q.v.). (q.v.). Season. Season. Cover Coyer and and cook cook gently gently for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Moisten with with 22 dl. dl. (* (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) dry dry white white wine. wine. Boil Boil Moisten down. Add Add 44 dl. dl. G(à- pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) thickened thickened brown brown stock stock down. and 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scantI (scant t cap) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). and Bring to to the the boil. boil. Bring Coyer and and cook cook in in the the oven oyen for for about about 1| I"Î hours. hours. Drain Drain and and Cover unrie the the shoulder. shoulder. Glazn, Glaze in in the the oven. oyen. Put Put itit on on aa dish dish and and untie surround with with a a suitable suitable garnish. gamish. Boil Boil down down the the braising braising surround stock, remove remove surplus surplus fat, fat, strain strain and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. stoch Suitable garnishes garnishes for for braised braised shoulder shoulder of of mutton' mutton. Nl AlI Suitable Braised for garnishes indicated for Braised rh rib of of mutton, mut ton, especially especially garnishes indicated -Bretonnc Bretonne garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES), GARNISHES), various various vegetable vegetable purées, dri-ed dried vegetables vegetables in particular (see (sec PUREE),.risotto, PURÉE),.risotto, pur6es, and pasta pasta prepared prepared in various various ways. ways. and Shoulder of of mutton mutton ià lr la bretonne. bretonne. rp,q'urr ÉPAULE os DE MouroN MOUTON A À LA, LA Shoulder with white haricot BRETONNE - Bone and braise. braise. Garnish with BREToNNE beans d àh la bretonne bretonne (see (see BEANS), or or beans or small Kidney beans beans (see with a a puree purée of of White White haricot haricot beans d à h la bretonne bretonne (sec with PURÉE). Pour the strained braising stock stock over over the shoulder. strained braising PUREE). of nutton mutton with with red cabbage cabbage ài la flamandeflamande. tpluI,s ÉPAULE Shoolder of Shoulder le rr-lueNoe MOUTON ALx AUX cHoux CHOUX RoucEs, ROUGFS, A À LA FLAMANDE -- Bone the DE MouroN lengthwise and tie. Braise Rolllengthwise shoulder and stuff stuff if desired. Roll dish with deep earthenware dish until half-cooked. half-cooked. Line aa deep with red until (see CAB CABBAGE) laflamanfu (see BAGE) but which prepared àd laflamande cabbage prepared and coyer cover s1 this bed bed and is only half-cooked. half-cooked. Lay the shoulder on oven. the oyen. Cover and cook slowly in the with more red cabbage. Coyer back When the shoulder is ready, drain and untie it. Put it back it aa few few tablein the cabbage. Pour over it in the the dish on top of the spoons of stock. ue fplur,E DE eu pistache. ÉPAULE or en Shoulder of mutton ài la catalane or (F.I PISTACHE) Bone the the shoulder, shoulder, ntsucru) -- Bone MOUTON A LA r.l, CATALANE cernr,AI.IE (EN MouroN À large lined with 1I large in aa saucepan saucepan lined rolllengthwise roll lengthwise and tie. Put itit in and carrot. carrot. (not smoked), onion and sliced onion slice of raw harn smoked), 1I sliced ham (not goose (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) goose Season. tablespoons (3 over itit 22 tablespoons Season. Pour Pour over 30 25 to to 30 for 25 gently on on the the stove stove for fat cook gently and cook lard. Coyer fat or Cover and or lard. out of of the the of ham ham out slice of and the the slice minutes. Take the shoulder and minutes. Take the shoulder (3 tablespoons) in it.it. flour in tablespoons) flour pan. pan. Brown tablespoons (3 Brown 22 tablespoons dl. Add 44 dl. wine. Add white wine. (* pint, pint" scant cup) white Moisten scant cup) dl. (t with 22 dl. Moisten with well; Mix weI!; clear soup. soup. Mix or clear (à-(* pint, stock or pint" scant cups) brown brown stock scant 22 cups) joint, and in the the back in ham, diced, diced, back of harn, strain. and the the slice slice of Put the the joint, strain. Put garlic and and aa bouquet bouquet of garlic cloves of saucepan. 50 blanched blanched cloyes Add 50 saucepan. Add peel' Moisten Moisten piece dried orange peel. dried orange (q.v.\ containing garni garni (q.v.) containing 1I piece oven moderate oyen in aa moderate and cook cook in with Cover and cooking stock. stock. Coyer with the the cooking for hour. for about about 1I hour. over itit dish. Pour Pour over on aa dish. Drain Put on shoulder. Put and untie untie the the shoulder. Drain and garlic. the of garlic. cloves of and the the cloyes the sauce sauce and

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I

(Inrousse) of mutton(Larousse) shoulderofmutton Rolledshoulder Rolled

(Latousse) Untrimmed of mutton (Larousse) shoulderofmutton Untrimmed shoulder

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MYRTLE MYRTLE paste and water paste and cook cook inin the theoven ovenfor 45 minutes for 45 minutes toto1I bour, hour, water according to to tbe thesize sizeof of the theshoulder. shoulder. according Shoulderof of mutton muttm witb with trnnipo ÉPAULE 6p,lurn DE DE MOUTON MouroN AUX Atx Sboulder NAvErs Bone the shoulder shoulder and stuff if desired. RolliengthRoll lengthNAVETS -- Bone the wise and and tie. tie. Braise Braise until until three-parts cooked. cooked. Drain, put the Drain, put the wise shoulder in in another another saucepan (2 lb. sauoepan with 1I kg. kg. (2 lb. 33oz., oz.,seant scant 66 shoulder cups) tender tender tumips, turnips, cut cut to look like like big to look olives and big olives and browned browned cups) in butter, and 30 (9 oz.) butter, and 30 sm g. (9 small onions 250 250 g. oz.) aiso also browned browned in in in ail onions the frying pan. the Skim all fat off off the the braising braising stock, stock, strain, pour over strain, and and pour over the dish. dish. Finisb Finish cooking cooking ail all together. together. the Slicd muttol1. mutton ÉMINCÉS nrr,rnrcfs DE DEMOUTON Mor.rroN -- Prepare with cooked Sliced mutton, in in the (see BEEF). the same way as same way as Sliced Slicedbeef mutton, beef(see (Car€me,s recipe). Braised sheep's sheep's tails tails (Carême's recipe). QUEUES DB MOUTON MouroN euEUEs DE Braised nndsfss -- 'Take 12 medium-sized 'Take 12 medium-sized tails. tails. Soak Soak in in co cold water BRAISÉES Id water for 1I hour. hour. Pour Pour boiling boiling water water over over them. them. Line saucepan Line aa saucepan for with mutton mutton trimmings, (q.v.), 22 onions, garni (q.v.), trimmings, aa bouquet bouquet garni onions, 22 with carrots. Cover with thin Cover with thin strips pork. Tie strips of of belly belly of of pork. Tie the the tails tails carrots. pairs. Moisten in pairs. good c1ear with good Moisten witb clear soup. soup. Cook for li l| hours. Cook for hours. in Drain the the tails and put them tails and thern in in aa press. Skim Skim ail all fat fat off off the the Drain jelly. When the stock; boil boil down down almost to to aa jelly. the tails tails are are cold, cold, stock;

trimthem andheat themand heatslowly slowly ininthe reducingthis thestock, stock, reducing thisslowly slowly trim jelly.Tum liquid jelly. Turn the the tails tailsover over and andover overso sothat are that they they are totoaaliquid thoroughly irnnr'>OT1I"t"f'i impregnated with with this thrWI"'t110hhl this liquid jelly. Serve Serve them them like cutlets, with Espagnole sauce (see SAUCE), boiled down boileddown like (reduced) toto halfits half its volume.' (reduced) (Car0me,s recipe). QUEUES Gdlld sheep's sherp's tails taib(Carême's DEMOUTON MouroN Grilled. erJEr.JEr DE plc'NErs crurdss-Prepare 12 sheep's tails as indicated PANÉES GRILLÉES - Prepare 12 sheep's as indicated ininthe the previous recipe, recipe, trim trirn them, them, dip them them inin melted melted butter butter and and breadcrumbs, and grill until and grill good colour. until they are areaagood colour. Serve Serve with Hachée Hachde sauce sauce or (sen, SAUCE). or aa thin thin Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see with Sheep's tongues tongues -- See See OFF OFFAL OR VVARIETY Sbeep's AL OR ARIETY MEATS. Sheep's trotters trotters -- See SeeOFFAL OFFAL OR VARIETY MEATS. OR VARIETY MEATS. Sheep's MYRTLE. MYRTE MyRrE -- Fragrant Fragrant evergreen evergreen shrub shrub corumon common aU MYRTLE. all over Europe. Europe. Myrtle Myrtle berries berries were were used place of in place pepper usedin over of pepper among the ancients, and the ancients, and ev gave their even their name name to among en gave to aa stew, stew, myrtalum. There There was was also also aa spiced spiced wine wine made from myrtle myrtle myrtalum. made from (Myrtidanum). (Myrtidanum). pepper myrtle has The pepper has leaves leaves similar similar to to those The those of of the the bay bay powdered berries tree. Its Its nO'wden~ berries are are known known as pepper. as Jamaican Jamaican pepper. tree. MYSOST -_ See See CHEESE. CHEESE. MYSOST

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and Savoie Savoie cakes which,like NAPOLITAIN NAPOLITAIN - Large Large cakes which, like breton breton and once used were once and croquembouche, croquembouche, were cakes, millefeuilles and used to to

NAGE (A (À L.q,) LA) -- Method of preparing 1-/'''lJ
631 631

OFFAL OFFAL

Preparation of of tripe tripe dà la la mode mode de de Caen Caen (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Preparation

Cut cooked cooked and and drained drained tripe tripe into into small small pieces pieces and simmer simmer -- Cut for for aa few few minutes minutes in in 33 dl. dl. $(~ pint, pint, lf li cups) cups) poulette Poulette sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add lzlightly 12 lightly cooked cooked mushrooms mushrooms and I1 tabletablespoon spoon chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Heat Heat in in aa serving serving dish. dish. Tripe Tripe ià la la provengale. provençale. cR,c.s-oouBLE GRAS-DOUBLE DE DE nopur BOEUF A À re LA pRovENgALE PROVENÇALE -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Tripe m en blanquetfe, blanquette, using using shredded shredded bacon bacon fat fat or or pork pork fat fat instead instead

of butter. After After binding binding the the sauce with egg of yolk, add sauce with egg yolk, add aa few few

of basil basil pounded with with bacon bacon fat pork fat. leaves of fat or or pork fat. sautéed in in butter. butter. cRAs-DouBLE GRAS-DOUBLE DE BOEUF SAUTÉ Tripe saut6ed DE BoEuF slurs AU eu cooked tripe tripe into into square rectangular pieces. pieces. BEURRE - Cut BEURRE square or or rectangular - Cut cooked and pepper, sprinkle with Rour, and fry Season with salt Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with flour, and fry in in until golden brown. brown. butter until Place on on a a serving serving dish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped Place chopped 632

OFFAL (see COURT-BOUILLON) III (see COURT-BOUILLON) in Court-bouillon cooked in Court-bouillon III cooked in c1arified clarified and brown brown lightly in into slices. with flour and slices. Dredge with into rows of of ovalovalwith rows alternating with in aa crown, crown, alternating Arrange in butter. butter. Arrange few tabletableAdd aa few fried in in butter. butter. Add crottons of bread bread fried shaped croûtons (see SAUCE). wine (see Bordelaise sauce sauce with with red wine SAUCE). spoons of Bordelaise DE MOUTON, braire àI l'indienne. I'indienne. CERVELLE cERVELLE DE MouroN, Sheep's (lambs) brains D'AcNEAU, A L'INDIENNE r'nvDmNwn -- Like Like Ca/ves' Calves' brains brains àd l'indienne I'indienne D'AGNEAU, (see below). (lambs) brains with red wine. CERVELLE DE MOUTON, MouroN, Sheep's (Iambs') cERVELLE DE Sheep's brains with D'AGNEAU, AU VIN vIN ROUGE RoUGE -- Like Calves' with red redwine, Calves' brains D'AGNEAU, wine, (ser', below). or àd la la bourguignonne (see Sheep's head. rBrr DE MOUTON MouroN-- Only Only the the tongue and and brain brain are used in cookery, cookery, though sheep's head can can be be of the sheep are sheep's head used in (see LAMB). prepared in the as lamb's lamb's head head (see LAMB). the same same way way as prepared RocNoNs DE DE MOUTON, MouroN, Sheep's(lambs') kidneys kidneys ili l'anglaise. I'anglaise. ROGNONS Sheep's{lambs') D'AcNEAU, ÀA L'ANGLAISE Remove the L'aNct-nrss -- Remove the skin skin of of the the kidneys D'AGNEAU, and slit slit on on the the bulging bulging side. side. Open Open without without separating separating the and kidney keep the two halves completely. completely. Put on on aa skewer skewer to to keep the kidney two (2 pieces per skewer). pieces of and Season with with salt kidney per open (2 of kidney salt and skewer). Season open pepper, bmsh melted butter, in breadcrumbs and dip in brush with with melted butter, dip breadcrumbs and grill. Garnish grilled rashers potatoes Garnish with with grilled rashers of of bacon, bacon, boiled boiled potatoes (see pat of and watercress. Maftre d'hôtel d'hdtel butter butter (see watercress. Put Put aa pat of Maitre and of aa walnut, walnut, on on each each Compound butters), butters), the the size size of BUTTER, Compound kidney. prepared without without being being also be be prepared l'anglaise can can also Kidneys àd l'anglaise in butter and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. butter and dipped in MouroN, (lambs') kidneys RocNoNS DE DE MOUTON, kidneys Carvalho. Carvalho. ROGNONS Sheep's (lambs') cut in in two two and cut D'AGNEAU, Remove the the skjn skin and D'AGNEAU, CARVALHO cARvALHo -- Remove in sizzling sizzling butter. butter. lengthways. and sauté them briskly briskly in lengthways. Season Season and saut6 them dish, placing in aa crown crown on on aa dish, Arrange halved kidneys kidneys in Arrange the the halved frid inin butter. butter. Put on on them the same same shape, fried them on on croûtons crottons of of the and 1I mushroom mushroom each ney 22 thin slices of truffie truffie and each half half of kidney thin slices of aa kid cap in butter. cap fried fried in butter. with Demi-glace Demi-glace Lace pan juices with Madeira, dilute dilute with with Madeira, Lace the the pan pour over (see SAUCE), kidneys. and pour over the the kidneys. (see butter, strain, strain, and SAUCE), add butter, DE MOUTON, MouroN, Sheep's RocNoNS DE Sheep's (lambs') $ambs') kidneys au gratin. ROGNONS D'AGNEAU, kidneys, seasoned halved kidneys, seasoned AU GRATIN D'AGNEAU, AU cRATIN - Saut6 the halved just to flame, to me, just with pepper, in brisk fla in butter butter over over aa brisk with salt and pepper, salt and stiffen stiffen them. them. Arrange Arrange them, them, bulging side up, on sausage stuffing or forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS or forcemeat (see or STUFFINGS) mixed (q.v.) piped in a with dry duxelles duxelles (q.v.) with aa third of its its weight inin dry third of into the forceforcePress them them slightly slightly into circle on a buttered dish. Press If kidney meat. half kidney and and on each each ha mushroom on meat. Put Put 1I cooked cooked mushroom surround forcemeat studded with slices slices of of uncooked uncooked surround with with forcemeat studded with (see SAUCE). mushrooms. Duxelles sauce sauce (see mushrooms. Pour Pour over over Duxelles Sprinkle melted butter and brown brown in and melted butter and Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and aa very very hot hot oyen. oven. Remove lemon few drops drops of Remove from squeezp aa few of lemon from the the oyen, oven, squeeze juice over and sprinkle with with chopped parsley. Sheep's kidneys saut6ed with mushrooms or with Sheep's (lambs') kidneys various nux D'AGNEAU, SAUTÉ slut6 AUX DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU, RocNoNs DE various wines. wines. ROGNONS CHAMPIGNONS with mushmushsauthed wilh kidneys sautéed Like Cèpes' Calves' kidneys cHAMpIGNoNs -- Like (see rooms various wines wines (see with various and Calves' kidneys sauléed sautAed with rooms and Calves' kidneys below). below). Sheep's DE BRocHETTES DE on skewers. skewers. BROCHETTES Sheep's (lambs') Qambs') kidneys on ROGNONS Thread on on skewers skewers DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU -- Thread RocNoNS DE sheep's pieces of lightly of lightly square pieces cut into into small small slices, slices, square sheep's kidneys kidneys cut (see fried mushrooms tossed tossed inin butter butter (see fried bacon, and sliced sliced mushrooms bacon, and below, Ives , kidneys on onskewers). skewers). Calves' below, Ca Sheep's (lambs) kidneys Turbigo. RocNoNs DE MouroN, Sheep's (lambs') D'AGNEAU, Ives and and fry in ha halves TURBIGo -- Divide the kidneys in D'AGNEAU, TURBIGO briskly dish. Put Put inin the Arrange inin aa circle circle on onaa dish. in butter. briskly in butter. Arrange middle which the the butter inin which peeled mushrooms mushrooms fried fried inin the the butter middle peeled put 22 half of kidney put Between each each half of kidney cooked. Between kidneys were were cooked. butter, fried inin butter, link sausages, grilled or or fried chipolata,or small small link cap fried fried inin mushroomcap halves place I mushroom and on each of of the the halves on each butter. butter.

parsley and a little liule vinegar or lemon juice. juice. Heat the butter remaining remaining in the pan until sizzling and pour over the tripe.

VARIETY MEATS. LAMB LAMB or or MUTTON MUTION OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY ABATS D'AGNEAU. D'AGNEAU, DE MouroN: MOUTON'

for the the testicles AnimelJES (U.S. fry) -- Culinary terrn tenu for testicles of Animelles and sheep. sheep. In male male animals, in particular those those of lambs and animelles were very much in vogue in France, Spain the past animelles ltaly. and Italy. meats) and and there This is a delicate piece of offal (variety meats) are given which are preparing it, it, sorne some of which are many recipes for preparing below. and soak the animelles preparing them, scald, skin and Before preparing in cold water for 2 to 3 hours. lNlunlrns ÀA LA r.L AnimelJES (U.S. (U .S. fry) in in cream sauee. ANIMELLE5 Animelles cream sauce. Cut in in thin thin slices. Season with CRÈME - Cut and pepper. with salt salt and cniun in butter. Add Add aa few sauce (see few tablespoons Creun sauce Cook in tablespoons Cream add aa !iule gently. Before little SAUCE) and Before serving serving add SAUCE) and simmer simmer gently. and sorne butter. Mix weil. well. cream and some fresh fresh butter. thls manner, the animelles are mostly used as Prepared in this patties, pies and vol-au-vent dishes. Mushrooms a garnish for patties, truffles can be added to them. and trufres Fricassée ANIMELLEs EN E.N FRICASSÉEFRtcassfE Fricassde of ammelJES animelles (U.S. fry). ANIMELLE5 Slice the the animelles and cook cook in in CourlCourtinto escalopes escalopes and Slice animelles into bouillon XII (see (se COURT-BOUILLON). Drain, put into a (or left whole, shallow pan with cooked, sliced mushrooms (or (see SAUCE). Simmer if they are small). Add Poulette sauce (see Add Poulette gently gently without Before serving, serving, add sorne some without allowing to to boil. boil. Before butter. fresh fresh butter. Fried Frid ammelJes animelles (Plumerey's recipe). ANIMELLES DE MOUTONS - 'Choose 3 MouroNs FRITE5 FRITES-'Choose 3 fresh sheep's (mutton) animelles, rem ove the size. remove and cut cut each each into 8 pieces of uniform size. the skin and Put into an earthenware earthenware bowl with salt, pepper, 2 teaspoons j bay tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons olive oil, little thyme, oil, aa !iUle thyme, 1 leaf, Cover the the few sprigs of of parsley. Coyer leaf, 1I sliced sliced onion onion and aa few bowl. After After one give out liquid. out their liquid. hour they they should give bowl. one hour Drain, put back back into the bowl with the rest ingredients, rest of of the the Ingredients, and Before serving, lemon. Before serving, with the juice of half aa lemon. and sprinkle with drain on and fry with flour flour and fry dredge with on aa cloth, cloth, pressing lightly; dredge until garnish napkin and and garnish on aa napkin until golden. Arrange Arrange in a heap on with fried parsley.' Animelles (U.S. (U.S. fry) ANIMELLES FRITES FRITES -fry) fried fried in in batter. batter. ANIMELLE5 Cut Marinate for for 1I into broad, slices. Marinate animelles into broad, thin thin slices. Cut the the animelles hour in and pepper. choppd parsley, salt salt and in oil, oil, lemon juice, chopped When into light batter (see BATTERS When required, dip them them into FOR FRYING). Fry, and Serve and garnish with fried parsley. Serve with Tomato sauce with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). Fried (U.S. fry) ANIMELLES fry) with with mushrooms. mushrooms. ANlMELLES Fried animelJES animelles (U.S. SAUTÉE5 and thoroughly thoroughly Aux CHAMPIGNONS Scald, skjn skin and s,turEES AUX cHAMpIcNoNs -- Scald, soak and dry. animelles, then then slice slice and soak the the animelles, Sauté me in in sizzling butter off and finish finish off flame butter and Saut6 on on aa brisk brisk fla as with for Calves' kidneys kidneys sautéed sautded with recipe for as described describod in in the the recipe mushrooms (see below). mushrooms (see below). AnimeUES .S. fry) (U.S. lNrrrnlrns ÀA LA u fry) ài lala vinaigrette. ANIMELLE5 Animelles (U VINAIGRETTE white court-bouillon court-bouillon animelles in aa white vINAIGRETTE -- Cook Cook the the animelles as (see below). sauce with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce for Calf s head below). Serve Serve with as for head (see (see (see SAUCE). Sheep's D'AGNEAU DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU brains. CERVELLE cERVELLE DE Sheep's (lambs') Qambs) brains. -- Ali and calves' calves' for ox ox (beef) and All methods methods of of preparation given for brains and lambs' lambs'brains. applied to brains can can be be applied to sheep's and The membranes covering covering The brains must be be first first soaked, the the membranes brains must them III in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon 11/ removed, and and the the brains brains cooked cooked in them removed, (see (see COURT-BOUILLON). COURT-BOUILLON). Sheep's DE (lambs) brains fried inin batter. batter. CERVELLE cERvELLE DE brains fried Sheepns (lambs') MOUTON, FRIToT -- Like Like Calves' Calves' brains brains fried MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AcNEAU, EN EN FRlTOT fried intn balter (see below). batter (see below). Sheep's DE bordelaise. CERVELLE csnvELLE DE brains ài )ala bordelaise. Sheep's (lambs') Qambs') brains MOUTON, brains, La BORDELAlSE soRDELAIsE -- Cut Cut the the brains, MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, ÀA LA

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OFFAL OFFAL

Kidneys on on skewers. skewers. How How to to open open kidneys kidneys and and how skewer [hem how to Kidneys them to skewer

juices with Add white white wine wine to pan juices to the the pan with tomato-fiavoured tomato-flavoured Add (see SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE), blend, pour over blend, and and pour the over the Demi-glace dish. dish. kidneys au au vert-pré. vert-pr6. ROGNONS DE MOUTON, MouroN, RocNoNs DE Sheep's (1ambs') Qambs) kidneys D'AGNEAU, AU itu VERT-PRÉ vnnr-pRf -- Prepare Prepare as as for for Sheep's Sheep's kidneys kidneys on on D'AGNEAU, garnish with Arrange on on aa dish dish and and gamish potato straws with potato straws skewers. Arrange pat of on the the kidneys kidneys aa pat Maitre d'hôtel of Maître d'hdtel and watercress. Place on (see BUTTER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). butter Lamb's lillver. ron D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU -- Lamb's Lamb's liver liver isis rarely rarely Lamb's ver. FOIE prepared by itself. It It fonns part of by itself. forms aa part pluck, of the the animal's animal's pluck, prepared is used for ragoûts. used for ragofrts. which is The liver liver can can be be cooked cooked on on skewers skewers as as Calfs Calfs /iver liver on on The (see below), or it it can can be fried in in butter be fried butter like like Calfs Calf s skewers (see (see below). Iiver àd l'anglaise I'anglaise (see /iver pluck ài l'anglaise. Lamb's pluck I'anglaise. FRESSURE FRESSURE D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU ÀA Lamb's L'ANGLAISE -- Slice the the lamb's lamb's liver, liver, heart, heart, spleen and and lungs lungs L'ANGLAISE (the last last two having previously previously been two having for 10 l0 been blanched blanched for (the minutes in salted water). the lamb's sweetbread. pepper sweetbread. Season with salt and pepper Season with salt and Slice the all the above ingredients in fiour. flour. Fry in a shallow and dredge ail pan in c1arified clarified butter. butter. Drain Drain and and arrange arrange on aa dish. Put 1I dish. Put pan in tablespoon fiour flour into the pan in which which the the pluck was was fried and few moments to to brown lightly; lightly; add add 1I dl. and cook cook for for aa few (6 tablespoons, scant t* cup) Madeira, aa few few tablespoons of (6 tablespoons, "rrp) of Harvey sauce and aa few drops drops sauce (English spice veal stock and sauce). Pour this sauce over the pluck. pluck. Lambs'tongues LANGUEs D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU -- These are are usually Lambs' tongues. LANGUES They can braised. They can also also be cooked in in white white court-bouillon be cooked (q.v.) Calf s tongue (see below) and and treated in the the sa (q.v.) like Calfs me same way. Serve with a garnish dressed with butter or Serve gamish of vegetables, dressed braised; braised; as as a a ragofit, ragoût, with with mushrooms, with chipolata or link etc. link sausages, sausages, with young carrots, carrots, àd la bouguignonne, bouguignonne, etc. The tongue diable, fried ton gue can also be prepared grilled àd la diable, fried in butter, in buttered papers (as ln Sainte(as rib chops of veal) àd la SainteMmehould Menehould (as (as pig's trotters, see below), in cripinettes crépinettes (q.v.) etc. Lembo' Lambs' sweetbreads. Rrs RlS D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - Most of the recipes

given for for Calves' Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads can given for lambs' lambs' sweetcan be be used used for sweetbreads. breads. put them pan. Moisten Soak the the sweetbreads sweetbreads and and put Soak them into into aa pan. Moisten with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons white white stock. with Add 1I teaspoon stock. Add teaspoon butter butter juice. Coyer and aa few few drops drops of and of lemon lemon juice. and simmer Cover and for 25 25 simmer for (strained) in minutes. Leave Leave to minutes. to cool cool in in the the stock in which stock (strained) which they they proceed as were cooked, cooked, and and proceed were as indicated indicated in in the the selected selected recipe. recipe. Lambs' sweetbreads Lambs' sweetbreads are are used garnish for as aa gamish used as for vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, patty shells, pies, timbales, patty shells, raised raised pies, timbales, various various decorative decorative borders, etc. etc. borders, They can can also also be They be served servd fried fried with with Cream, Crearn, Poulette, Poulette, (se SAUCE), Curry or Curry or Hungarian Hungarian sauce souce (see SAUCE), on on skewers, in skewers, in scallop shells, scallop shells, in in batter, as cromesquis batter, as cromesqurs or or croquettes, croquettes, with with pilaf, etc. etc. pilaf, garnish for They are are aise also used They used as as garnish for eggs, and for eggs, and for small small entrie dishes dishes of meat chicken, entrée of meat, chicken, etc. etc. (For these (For these dishes, dishes, see Calves' sweetbreads se Calves' sweetbreads below.) below.) pArn CHAUD pflt6 of Hot pâté Hot of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbrea& ài l'ancienne. l'ancienne. PÂTÉ cHAUD DE RIS RIs D'AGNEAU DE D'AcNEAU -- Line Line the the sides sides and and bottom bottom of of aa buttered pdti mould (see DOUGH). paste pâté with Lining pas te (see mouldwith DOUGH). Coyer Cover the the inside inside of the the baking dish dish with with aa thick thick layer layer of of (see FORCEMEA Forcemeat àd la Forcemeat TS or la crème crime (see FORCEMEATS or STUFFSTUFFrNGS). INGS). On this put aa layer of lambs'· On lambs'. sweetbreads sweetbreads half-cooked in in butter, slices of mushrooms lightly fried fried in in butter, and and thick thick slices of of truffies. slices trufres. Coyer with another Cover with another layer layer of of forcemear, forcemeaf another layer of sweetbreads, mushrooms and and truffies, and and finish with aa layer of forcemeat. forcemeat. pdti with aa piece of rolled-out pastry and Coyer Cover the pâté and seal seal the edges. Make Make an an opening in the pastry lid lid to allow steam steam to escape. escape. Decorate the to the top top with with small pastry decorations and brush and brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Bake in in aa moderate oyen for oven for 45 minutes 45 minutes to to 1I hour, hour, depending on on the the thickness thickness of of the pastry. Put pâté on Put the pdti on aa dish. dish. Through Through the the opening in in the the top (ser', SAUCE), pour in several tablespoons Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see fiavoured with truffies. flavoured trufres. Lambs' sweetbreads pilaf. pilaf. PILAf nur DE DE RIS Rrs D'AGNEAU -- Pre(see PILAF) replacing the pare like Chicken /iver pilaf pilaf(see Chickm liver the latter by lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads cooked by cooked in in butter which which have have been previously previously soaked in cold water and and blanched. Vol-au-vent of lrmbs' lambs' sweetbreads with Vol-auvent witr truftles trfles and mushVOL-AU-VENT DE DE RIS D'AGNEAU AUX rooms. voL-AU-vENT rtxrrnsl RIs D'AGNEAU Atrx TRUFFFS TRUFFES ET CHAMPIGNONS - Prepare Prepare the vol-au-vent case cHAMpIcNoNs c,ase (see VOL-AUthe vol-au-vent VENT). VENT). ragoût of lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads braised braised in courtFill with a ragofrt (q.v.), together with sliced truffies and mushrooms bouillon (q.v.), and mushrooms sauce (see SAUCE). in very hot Allemande sauce Ragoûts of of lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads intended for filling vol-auvol-auRagofits similar dishes can be be cooked either in aa white white or vent cases vmt ep,ses or similar brown stock. brown truffies and mushrooms, these these ragofrts ragoûts cao In addition to trufles can

Lambs' Lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads Villeroi Villeroi on on skewers skewers (.Izroasse) (Larousse)

634

OFFAL skewers. In cool. cool. Slice and and thread thread the the pieces on on skewers. In between each piece put put a a slice slice of mushroom tossed in in butter butter and and aa

be supplemented with with various various ingredients ingredients such as quenelles, quemdle;s, be

combs and and kidneys, kidneys, brains brains in in large large dice, sliced sliced cocks' combs artichoke hearts, hearts, etc. etc. The The lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads must, must, of artichoke

square pieoe piece of bacon, lightly browned. butter Baste with butter butter and coat coat with breadcrumbs. Pour butter

course, be he the predominating predominating ingredient. ingredient. course, (lambs') torgues. LANcuEs LANGUES DE DE MouroN, MOUTON, D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU Sheep's (lembc) he prepared in various ways. First soak in cold -- These can be water and scald for skinning. Braised sheep's Qambs) (lambs') tongues ton gues with widl variore various garnishes. galrni!5hes. Brrts€d LANGUES DE MouroN, MOUTON, D'AGNEAU, nnlrsiss BRAISÉES - Braise Braise in a very LANGUES

grill slowly. over them and and grill Serve with Piquante sauce sauce made with with the braising braising stock SAUCE). of the tongues, or with Diable sauce (seo SAUCE). LANcLJES DE DE la vinaigrettc LANGUES Sheep's (tambs) tongues à la Sheep's in aa white MouroN, D'AGNEAU, A LA vm.lIcRETTE VINAIGRETTE - Cook in fresh head.Drarn Calf s head. stock, as as for Calfs Drain and skin. Garnish with fresh (se SAUCE), parsley. Serve with saace (see SAUCE), capers, with Vinaigrette sauce onions and chopped parsley.

!ittle stock. Arrange on a dish and surround with a suitable little

gamish. Pour the braising stock, boiled down and strained, garnish. over the dish. AlI garnishes indicated for Braised shoulder or rh of All mutton(see MUTTON, GARNISHES), are suitable. LANcuEs DE Sheep's Qambs) tongues en crdpinettes LANGUES MOUTON, D'AGNBAU, srv EN cnfprNnrrEs - Braise the the tongues tongues MouroN, in half, enclose and leave to cool in their their stock. Cut them in and (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or in Fine Fine pork stufing stuffing (see each half in each STUFFINGS) of pork caul. STUFFINGS) with trufres; wrap in a piece of Dip in in breadBaste the the crdpinettes wittr melted butter. Dip Baste (see sauce (see and grill slowly. Serve with Piriguanx Périgueux sauce crumbs, and SAUCE). sAUCE). DE MOUTON, MouroN, DeviUed sheep's sbeep's Qambs) tongues. LANGUES DE tongue* LANGUES Devilld and leave leave to DIABLE - Braise the the tongues and A LA ollnrr D'AGNEAU, À each half in hal[ half and spread each Cut them in cool in their stock. stock. Cut pepper. with mustard mustard seasoned cayenne pepper. with aa touch of cayenne touch of with seasoned with pour butter Baste with butter over Baste with butter. butter. Dip in breadcrumbs, pour (se SAUCE). them and grill slowly. Serve with Diable sauce (see SAUCE). them DE MOUTON, MouroN, Fritot of sheep's LANcuEs DE sheep's Qanbs) tongues. LANGUES D'AGNEAU, EN FRlTOT in FRrror -- Braise the tongues (or poach them in very Drain. Cut in their stock. stock. Drain. Leave to to cool cool in very Httle little liquid). liquid). Leave into thin slices, in aa marinade of for 1I hour hour in slices, and and steep them for oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley, parsley, salt and p€pper. salt and Dip Garnish deepfry in in boiling fat. Gamish and deep-fry Dip in in light batter batter and with fried parsley. Serve with SAUCE). Toman sauce (se SAUCE). with Tomato fried parsley. Sheep's (lambs') (lembs) tongues au grath. LANGUES DE DE MOUTON, MouroN, au gratin. D'AGNEAU, in and cut cut them them in the tongues and D'AcNEAU, AU Au GRATIN GRATIN -- Braise the hal[ dish masked with with in an an ovenware lengthwise. Put them in ovenwar€ dish half lengthwise. (se SAUCE). Mornay half tongue with with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate each hal[ aa cooked mushroom. Coyer dust with sauce, dust Cover with Mornay sauce, breadcrumbs, slowly. melted butter; butter; brown brown slowly. on melted and pour on breadcnrmbs, and Sprinkle with chopped parsley. la LANcuEs DE DE tongues la hongroise. hongroise. LANGUES Sheep's Qambo) tougues noNcnolsp-- Half-cook Half-cook the tongues u, HONGROISE MouroN, D'AGNEAU, ÀA LA (a oz., g. (4 100 g. oz., 1I cup) Drain; skin them. them. Cook Cook 100 in clear soup. Drain; Season with Put the tongues on top. Season chopped onions slowly. Put pint, and stew. dl. (t cover and stew. Moisten with 1lj dl. salt and paprika, coyer $ pint, 13 cup) down. cup) white wine. wine. Boil down. (se SAUCE). Moisten Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Moisten with rather thin thin Velouté with aa rather Coyer in aa deep deep dish. dish. tongues in cook. Pour sauce sauce over over tongues and cook. Cover and Sbeep's DE MOUTON, MouroN, l'italienne. LANGUES LANGUEII DE tongues ài l'italienne. Sheep's (lambs') [ambs') tongues D'AGNEAU, ltalian and simmer tn /talian Braise and simmer in D'AGNEAU, À A L'ITALIENNE I'ITALIrNNE - Braise sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Pickled (lanbs) tongues. DE MOUTON, MouroN, LANcuEs DE sheep's (lambs') tongues. LANGUES Picklcd sheep's D'AGNEAU, and put them them Wash the tongues, and o'lcNrlu, ÀA L'ÉCARLATE r'fcmr,lre -- Wash the tongues, in in for 33 or or 44 days. days. Cook in ox tangue, tongue, for in brine, as for for Pickled ox brine, as the way as as OK tongue. the same same way ox tongue. (esThese garnish (esany gamish hot with with any These tongues can he be served served hot tongues can green or or pecially with puree of or with with green lentils or or chestnuts), chestnuts), or with purée of lentils simmered. be simmered. which the the tongues tongues should should be red cabbage, in in which They having been after having been like ox They can cold, like ox tongue, tongue, after can be served served cold, coloured caramel. with carmine carmine or or caramel. coloured with Sheep's poulette. LANGUES DE LANcLJES DE la poulette. Sheep's Oambs') tongues à la Qanbs) tongues powsrrB -- Cook MOUTON in white white stock. stock. r,.l POULETTE Cook the the tongues in MouroN ÀA LA Drain (lambs') as indicated indicated for Sheep's Sheep's (lambs') Drain and and slice. Proceed as slice. Proceed trotters (see below). below). trotters àd la la poulette (see DE MOUTON, MouroN, LANGUES DE tongucs. LANGUES Skewered sheepts (lambs') Qambs') tongues. D'AGNEAU, to and leave leave to Braise the D'AGNEAU, EN BRocHETTEs -- Braise the tongues tongues and EN BROCHETTES

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D'AGNEAU (ambs) trotters. DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU PIEDS DE trotters PIEDS Sheep's (lambs') in the shops be bought in lambs'trotters, Sheep's or lambs' trotters, which can he and the little tufts be boned, boned, singed and already blanched, must he removed. of hair between the cleavage in the hoof removed. and proceed as light white white court-bouillon (q.v.) and Cook in aa light given recipe. in the given described in described DE MOUTON, MouroN, blanquette. PIEDS PtEDs DE trotters en en blanquette. Sheep's (lambs') Qambs) trotters as Sheep's This is is the BLANeLJETTEs - This the same same as EN BLANQUETTES D'AGNEAU, EN (lambs) trollers poulette (see below) below) to which, in addition trotters à d la poulette (lambs') cooked in aa veal or chicken chicken mushroonrs, small onions cooked to the mushrooms, consomm6 are added. consommé perigourdine. (lanbs) trotters la périgourdine. in crépinettes cr6pinettes à la trotten in Sheep's Oambs') pfnlpIEDs DE D'AGNEAU, EN EN CRÉPINETTES cRfprNrmrs ÀA LA PÉRIDE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU, PIEDS in their and allow allow to cool in their to cool couRDrNE - Braise Braise the the trotters trotters and GOURDINE half each each trotter between two two and drain. drain. Put Put hal[ braising stock and of minced truffied forcemeat. forcemeat. Wrap in pieces of layers of finely minced pork. Brush with melted melted pig's caul or paper-thin slices slices of of salt salt pork. gentle flame. grill under aa gentle flame. and grill dip in breadcrumbs and butter, dip juices in were braised, in which which the the trotters were Serve with the pan juices Serve glass of Madeira, strained, strained, and and wine glass of Madeira, with 1 wine boiled down down with boiled added. few diced diced truffles trufres added. with aa few

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DE cRoQuErrEs DE of sheep's (lambs) trotters. CROQUETTES Croquettes Croquettes of are prepared with with aa - These are (q.v.) of mixed with mushrooms mushrooms trotters mixed salpicon (q.v.) of sheep's sheep's trotters salpicon (see SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) with Allemande Allemande sauce and truffies, and bound bound with and trufles, and (See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, IIol HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot like ordinary croquettes. croquettes. (See like

prEDs DE DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU PIEDS

hors-d'euvre.)

MouroN, PIEDs DE DE MOUTON, trotters. PIEDS Frid sheep's shcep's (lambs') Fried Qambs) trotters. in white white halved sheep's trotters trotters in Cook halved - Cook minutes for 30 30 minutes and dry. dry. Marinate for drain and court-bouillon (q.v.), drain court-bouillon pepper. parsley, salt and pepper. salt and in oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley, oil, lemon in fat. and deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling sizzling fat. into batter and When needed, dip dip into When (see parsley. Serve Tomato sauce sauce (see with Tomato Serve with Garnish with with fried fried parsley. Gamish SAUCE). SAUCE). PIEDs DE DE l'ancienne. PIEDS trotters aa l'ancienne. Fried sbeep's sheep's (lambs') Fried Qambs) trotters the trotters trotters rrurs ÀA L'ANCIENNE Cook the L'ANCIENNE -- Cook MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, FRITS MOUTON, (q.v.), or DraiD, dry, drY, or braise braise them. them. Drain, in white white court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), in pounded layer of of finely finely pounded half with with aa layer and cover cover each each half split, split, and Put mixed with with chopped chopped truffies. trufres. Put forcemeat or stuffing (q.v.) mixed forcemeat or stuffing Wrap in in aa piece of of tightly. Wrap the the halves halves together, together, sandwiching tightly. pork. Leave to to pig's caul paper-thin sheet of of salt salt pork. caul or pig's or aa paper-thin with in batter and fry. fry. Serve Serve with required, dip dip in batter and marinate. When When required, marinate. D'AGNEAU, FRITS FRITS D'AGNEAU,

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(see SAUCE). sauce SAUCE). sauce (see

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DE MOUTON, PIEm DE la hongroise. MouroN, hongroise. PIEDS trotters à la Sheep's Qambs) trotters (lanbs') like Sheep's Sheep's (lambs') noNcnotsr -- Prepare Prepare like D'AGNEAU, D'AcNEAU, A LA r,l HONGROISE

(see below), poulette (see finely chopped chopped onion, onion, below), with with finely trotters trotters àd lala poulette paprika. with paprika. in butter, and seasoned seasoned with slightly butter, and slightly browned browned in PIEDS DE DE MOUTON, MouroN, trotters àI lala poulette. PIEDS Sheep's Sheep's Qambs) trotters pouurre -- Cook 250 cups) 250 g.g. (9 oz., oz.,3 3 cups) D'AGNEAU, i LA m POULETTE and cook cook Bone 12 12 trotters, split inin hali and sliced trotters, split sliced mushrooms. Bone (q.v.). Put pan with with into aa shallow shallow pan Put into in white court-bouillon in white court-bouillon (q.v.). white cup) white mushrooms. Add Add 44 tablespoons ct(} cup) the cooked mushrooms. the cooked stock (see stock of mushroom stock stock and the same amount of Add 33dl. dl. (!$ pint, lf STOCK). Boil down almost entirely. Add tablespoons (scant I cups) Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE) and 3,3,tablespoons cup) cream. Simmer for 5 to 6 minutes.

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OFFAL OFFAL Bind the the sauce sauce with with aa liaison liaison of yolks mixed of 33 or or 44 egg egg yolks mixed Bind (scant I or with 33or or 44 tablespoons tablespoons (scant;} or t{ cup) cup) eream. cream. Simmer Simmer the the with trotters but but do do not not boil. (scant * cup) boil. Add Add 33 tabJespoons tablespoons (seant! trotters ",rp) juice and butter, aa dash dash of of lemon lemon juiœ and 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped butter, parsley. Mix Mix weil. well. parsley. prEDs DE Sheep's (Iambs') hotters ài lala rouennaise rouennaise I.I. PrEDS DE Qambs) trotters Sheep's MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, ÀA LA re ROUENNAISE noueNNArsn -- Blanch Blanch the the trotters trotters MOUTON, whole and and braise good strong braise them in aa good them in strong stock. stock. Drain, Drain, and and whole remove ail all bones. bones. Fill Fill the the inside inside with with sausage sausage meat meat mixed mixed remove with 1I lightly lightly browned browned chopped chopped on onion, parsley chopped parsley with ion, chopped and the the stock stock left left over over from from the the braising, braising, boiled boiled down down and and and strained. strained. Dip the the trotters trotters in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Just Just before before Dip serving, deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling srzz,ling fat. fat. Garnish Garnish with with fried parsley. fried parsley. serving, prEDs DE Sheep's (Iambs') trotters ài lala rouennaise rouennaise n. II. PIEDS DE flambs) trotters Sbeep's MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, À A LA r,c, ROUENNAISE nousNNArsn _.- Braise Braise the the trotters trotters MOUTON, and divide divide in in halves. halves. Sandwich Sandwich them them between between two layers of two layers of and prepard as stuffing or or forcerneat forcemeat prepared as described preceding described in in the the preceding stuffing recipe. Wrap pieces of Wrap in in pieces pig's cauJ of pig's paper-thin slîces caul or or paper-thin slices of of recipe. pork. Brush salt pork. Brush with with melted melted butter, roll in in breadcrumbs butter, roll breadcrumbs and and salt grill under under aa low low ftame. flame. grill prcos DE (lambs) trotters Sheep's (Iambs') trotters ài la la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. PIEDS DE MOUTON, MouroN, Sheep's D'AcNEAU, À r,c, VINAIGRETTI A LA vrNA,rcRETTE -- Cook Cook the the trotters in aa white white trotters in D'AGNEAU, (q.v.). Drain, court-bouillon (q.v.). Drain, and and bone bone them them completely. completely. court-bouillon Season while while hot hot with with oÎl, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt, pepper and salt, pepper and ônely finely Season chopped herbs. herbs. chopped (which is This salad salad (which is served as an served as an hors-d'œuvre) hors-d'euvre) is generally is generally This flavoured with with chopped chopped spring spring on onions. flavoured ions.

ears, arrange Drain the the ears, arrange on on aa serving dish and and garnish garnish as serving dish as Drain indicated inin the the recîpe. recipe. Boil Boil down down the the braising braising Iiquor, liquor, indicated pour over strain itit and and pour over the ears. the ears. strain poRc AU gratin OREILLES Pigso ears ears au au gratin. oRETLLEs DE DE PORC AU GRA GRATIN Braise Pigs' TIN -- Brajse in two the ears ears and and eut cut in lengthways. Put two lengthways. Put them into aa buttered them ioto buttered the oven-proof dish. dish. Surround Surround with with sliced mushrooms. Coyer sliced mushrooms. Cover oven-proof gratin sauce (made of with gralil/ (q.v.) and sauce (made of Duxelles Duxelles mixIure mixture (q.v.) and the the with liquor left left from from braising braising the the ears). ears). Sprinkle grated Sprinkle with with grated liquor breadcrumbs and and mehed melted butter. butter. Brown Brown the the top top slowly slowly in in the the breadcrumbs Before juice over oven. Bef serving squeeze squeeze aa few few drops drops of lemon juice of lemon over OTe serving oyen. the ears ears and and sprinkle sprinkle them them with with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. the poRc GRJLLÉES pigs' ears. Grined plgs' ean. OREILLES oRETLLES DE DE PORC cnrlr,fps - Boil Boil or or Grilled braise the ears and and cut the ears cut in in two lengthways. Coat two lengthways. Coat with with melted melted braise butter and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Spriokle Sprinkle with with melted melted butter and butter and butter grill gently. gently. Serve Serve with with aa well-spiced well-spicod sauce. sau@. grill pigs' ears Grilled pigs' generally accompanied ears are are generally accompanied by mashed by ma Grilled shed potatoes, served separa separately. pota toes, served tely. poRc pigs' ears Grilld pigs' ears Sainte-Menehould. Sainte-Menehould. OREILLES oRrrLLEs OF. DE PORC Grilled cnufns SAINTE-MENEHOULD sATNTE-MENEHouLD - Boil pigs' ears Boil the the pigs' ears in in aa GRILLÉES (q.v.), like spiced court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), like pigs' pigs' feet. feet. Drain Drain and and cool cool spiced press. Cut under aa press. Cut in in two, coat with two, coat melted butter with melted butter and and under breadcrumbs and and cook cook either grill or either under under the the grill or in in the the breadcrumbs oven. oyen. poRc À la hongroise. hongroise. OREILLES oRETLLEs DE DE PORC A LA ra HONGROISE noucnolsn Pigs' ears ài la pig's ears Boil the pig's ears as as described described above and cut into uniform -- Boil pieces. Melt Melt sOrne some butter butter in in aa sauté pan, soften (for 2 saut6 pan, soften in in itit (for pieces. (4 Ol., g. (4 ears) 100 g. oz.,l1 cup) diced diced onions, season with salt and and ears) paprika, and put in and put pig's ears. in the the pig's ears. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, for for 10 l0 paprika, minutes. Add (* cup) mushrooms cut in in large minutes. Add 44 tablespoons (t and tossed (f, pint, scant 2 tossed in in buller. butter. Moisten Moisten with 4 dl. dl. (l dice and (see SAUCE). cups) Velouté Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE). cups) Cook with with aa lid on for for 14 minutes. Before serving, serving, add add 3 Cook lid on (scant *t cup) tablespoons c,rp) butter. tablespoons (seant poRc FARcrEs pigs' ears Stufred pigs' oRETLLES DE PORC Stuffed ears. OREILLES FARCIES - Prepare Prepare like (see below). Calves' Calves' ears earS Villeroi Vil/eroi (see Pigs'feet Pigs' feet (hotters). (trotters). prEDs PIEDS DE DE poRc PORC - Tie the pig's feet two by and add by two, two, boil boil in in stock prepared prepared like like aa meat meat stock, and carrots, (q.v.). Drain, straighten carrots, onions and a bouquet garni (q.v.). by by placing placing between between two two thin thin boards tied tied with string, string, and cool cool under under a press. press. When When cold, cold, cut cut each each trotter trotter in two lengthways, brush with wÎth butter butter or or lard, lard, and and grill grill gently. gently. Pigs' Pîgs' feet feet are usually accompanied panied by by mashed mashed potatoes potatoes served separately. separately. Pigs' Pigs' feet feet can cao be be braised. braised. They They are are cooked cooked in in this this way way when they they are are intended intended for for preparing preparing a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) or or when when they are are used used as as an an element element of of various various garnishes. garnishes. They They can can also also be be prepared prepared in any way suitable suita ble for Calves' Calves' feel. feet. Pigs' Pigs' feet feet Sainte-Menehould. prEDs PIEDS DE DE poRc PORC sATNTESAINTEMENEHoULD MENEHOULD -- This This is is aa special special way way of of cooking cooking pigs' pîgs' feet feet to to obtain obtain aa particular particular softening softening of of the the bones bones so sa that that they they can be he easily easily crunched. crunched. Cook Cook the the feet feet very very slowly for for aa long long period. period. Brush Brush them them with with melted melted butter butter and and coat coat with with white white breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter or or lard lard and and cook cook in in the the oven oyen until with mashd mashed potatoes. potatoes. until golden. golden. Serve Serve with Trrffed Truffied pigs' pigs' feet feet I. J. preDs PI~OS DE DE poRc PORC rnurrrs TRUFFÉS - Cook Cook the the pigs' pigs' feet feet (either (either boil boll or or braise braise them) them) and and bone bone completely. completely. Cut Cut the the flestr flesh into into large large dice. dice. Mix Mix with with Fine Fine pork pork forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or or STUFFINGS) STUFFINGS) to to which which some sorne diced diced or or choppod chopped trufres truffles have have been been added. added. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and spices, spices, and and add add aa dastr dash ofbrandy. of brandy. Divide Divide into into 100-9. loo-g. (4-o2.,j (4-oz., ! cupful) eupful) parts parts and and shape shape them them into into crdpinettes crépinettes (q.v.), (q.v.), pointed pointed at al one one end. end. Put Put 22 or or 33 fine fine trufle on each each crdpinette crépinette and and wrap wrap in in aa piece piece of of pig's pig's truffie slices slices on caul. cau!. Brustr Brush with with melted melted butter, butter, coat coat with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and grill grill gently. gently. Serve Serve with with mashed mashed potatoes. potatoes. pleDs Tnffed TruflIed pigs' pigs' feet fee' If. PIEDS DE DE poRc PORC rnur.rrs TRufFÉq -- Braise Braise the the

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poRc PORK OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. ABATS ABArs DE DE PORCPORK poRc - This part of the animal, Pig's bladder. bladder. VE.'>SIE vEssrE DE DE PORC Pig's - This part of the animal, after careful careful washing, washing, is is blown up and and dried, dried, and and then used after blown up then used pig's as aa casing casing for for big big sausages. sausages, and and for for wrapping lard. Pig's as wrapping lard. bladder also used used in for wrapping wrapping ducks ducks and and bladder is is also in the the kitchen kitchen for other chemise (see other poultry poultry prepared prepared m f!1I chemise (see DUCK). DUCK). poRc Pigs' brains cERVELLE DE Pigs' brains can be Pigs' brains. CERVELLE DE PORC -- Pigs' brains can be prepared any way for Ca/ves' Calves' brains. prepared in in any way suitable suitable for brains. poRc FUMÉE -Smoked Smoked pig's plg's cheek cheek (bath (batb chap). chap). JouE JOUE DE DE PORC rurvr6s This Smoked This part part of of the the animal animal is is much much prized prized in in England. England. Smoked pigs'cheeks pigs' cheeks (bath (bath chaps) chaps) are are boiled boiled in in water waler and and eaten eaten cold, cold, like like ham. ham. poRc Pigs' Pigs' ears. ears. oRETLLEs OREILLES DE DE PORC -- Pigs' Pigs' ears ears are are mainly mainly used used in preparation of of various various pork pork butchery butchery products, products, in the tbe preparation chiefly chiefly for for brawn brawn or or head head cheese. cheese. They They can can also also be he served served separately, separately, as as a a small small entrie. entrée. Boil Boil ina cauri-bouillon (q.v.) (q.v.) asfor as for Pigs'feet Pigs 'feet (see (see below), below), or or braise. braise. in a court-bouillon poRc BourLLrEs pigs' Boiled ears. oRETLLEs DE Singe the the Boiled pigs' ears. OREILLES DE PORC BOUILLIES -- Singe earso ears, clean c1ean the the inside ioside thoroughly thoroughly and and boil boil them them in in salted salted water, water, allowing allowing lf, Hteaspoons teaspoons salt salt per per litre litre (lf (lt pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) with with carrots, carrots, I1 onion onion studded studded with with a a clove clove and and aa garni (q.v.). bouquet gently Simmer bouquet garni (q.v.). Simmer gently for for about about 50 50 minutes. minutes. Drain indicated in Drain the the ears ears and and prepare prepare as asindicated in individual individual recipes. recipes. Having Having been heen boiled boiled in in this trus manner, manner, pigs' pigs' ears ears can can be be treated treated in in various various ways, ways, coated coated with with batter balter and and fried fried in in deep deep fat, fat, d à la la lyonnaise /yormaîse (cut (eut into into coarse coarse julienne julielUle strips strips and and fried fried . in in butter butter with with sliced sliced onions), onions), d à Ia la vinaigrette vinaigrelle (se (see below, below, Calf Calfss head), head), etc. etc. poRc Braised 8ralsed pigs' pigs' ears ears with wlth various varioll'li gamishes garrusbes. oRETLLEs OREILLES DE DE PORC snAlsfns BRAISÉES -- Singe Singe 44 pigs' pigs' ears ears and and clean c\ean the the inside inside thoroughty. thoroughly. Blanch Blanch for for 55 minutes minutes in in boiling boiling water. water. Drain Drain and and cut eut each each in in half half lengthways. lengthways. Lay Lay them them flat fiat in in aa buttered buttered saut6 sauté pan pan on on aa foundation foundation of of bacon bacon rinds rinds and and sliced sliced onions onions and and carrots. carrots. Put Put aa bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.) in middle the middle of of the the dish. dish. Cover Coyer and and cook cook on on garni (q.v.) in the top top of ofthe the stove. stove. Moisten Moisten with with 22 dl. dl. ($ (! pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil boil down down completely, completely, add add 44 dl. dl. (f; (~ pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock stock and and finish finish cooking cooking in in the the oven, oyen, with a lid on, for 50 minutes. with a lid on, for 50 minutes.

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OFFAL Pig's Pig's lighb iil la la provengde. provençale. uou MOU DE DE PoRc PORC A À r,e LA nnovrNqlLr PROVENÇALE Cut the lights lights as as described deseribed above above and and fry fry in in oil. oil. Add Add 22 -- Cut

pigs' feet feet in in Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured stock, stock, Leave Leave in in the the braising braising

until cold, cold, then then drain drain and and bone. bone. Cut Cut half half the the ffesh flesh into into liquor until as many many pieces pieces as as there there are are feet feet to to be be served. served. Chop Chop the the rest, rest, as mix with with Fine Fine tufied truffled forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS or or mix STUFFINGS) and and add add the the braising braising liquor, liquor, boiled boiled down down and and STUFFINGS)

crushed and a a big big bouquet bouquet garni garni consisting consisting of of crushed garlic garlic cloves cloves and thyme, thyme, bay leat leaf, parsley parsley and and basil. basil. Dilute Dilute with 22 dl. dl. (} (~ pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine wine and and boil boil down. (-~ pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) thickened thickened veal veal down. Moisten Moisten with with 22 dl. dl. ($ Tomato stock stock and and 88 dl. dl. (generous (generous l{ It pints, pints, lt pints) light light Tomalo sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for lj hours. Drain Drain the the pieces, pieces, trim trim them them and and put put into into another another casserole casserole Strain the with g. (9 (9 oz., oz., scant seant l+ It cups) cups) black black olives. olives. Strain the with 250 g. for 25 sauce over them and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for 25 minutes. minutes. When When serving, sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. can chopped, can Fresh tomatoes, tomatoes, peeled, peeled, seeded seeded and and coarsely eoarsely chopped, sauce. be used used instead instead of of tomato tomato sauce. as aa used as Pig's Pig's liver. Iiver. FoIE FOIE DE DE PoRc PORC - Pig's Pig's liver liver is is mainly mainly used as pork such as charcuterie, such various charcuterie, for variou." forcemeat ingredient ingredient for (q.v.). It hot cookd in served hot also be It can can also and gayettes brawn and gayettes (q.v.). be served liver (see given for for Calfs Calfs /iver recipes given All the the recipes various variou.
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OFFAL OFFAL parsley and lemon of lemon and aa few few drops drops of chopped parsley with chopped Sprinkle with juice, and liver was was in which which the the Iiver pour over the butter butter in and pour over itit the juice, cooked. by grilling can also also he be prepared by I'anglaise can liver àri l'anglaise Calf's Iiver garnishing the dish with with boiled bacon, garnishing and the the bacon, liver and the the liver (see butter (see Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter potatoes and with Maître and dabbing dabbing with potatoes butters). BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). vEAU BERCY BERcY -- Slice, Slice, season, season, FoIE DE DE VEAU llven Bercy. Bercy. FOIE Calf's Calfs liver (see grill. Serve with Bercy Bercy butter butter (see Serve with flour and and grill. dredge with with Bour but t er s). BUTTER, Compound C ompound butters). A LA rl BORDELAISE nonoelAlsn -FoIE DE DE VEAU vEAU À Calf's la bordelaise. bordelaise. FOIE Cdfs liver liI la and fry in in butter. butter. Arrange on with flour flour and Slice, dredge with Slice, season, season, dredge ham fried fried in in butter. with slices slices of ham rows with aa dish in alternate alternate rows dish in (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve sauce (see with Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce Serve with BouRcEoIsE vmu ÀA LA t.A BOURGEOISE FoIE DE DE VEAU Ca.lf's la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. FOIE Calfs liver liI la fat 1 crn. square bacon fat square -- Lard strips of of bacon liver with with thick thick strips Lard the the liver { cm. (2 to inches) long, long, seasoned seasoned to 33 inches) cm. (2 and 55 to inch square) to ft cm. square) and $ inch with Sprinkle with with pepper, spices spices and chopped parsley. Sprinkle rump àd lala with string. string. Braise llke Top rump brandy. Secure with (see BEEF). bourgeoise BEEF). bourgeoise (see rA BOURsounCalf's FoIE DE DE VEAU vEAU ÀA LA la bouguignonne. bouguignonne. FOIE livcr liI la CdPs liver GUIGNONNE as described described liver as calf's liver using sliced sliced calf's Proceed using cuIcNoNNE -- Proceed (se BEEF). in BEEF). Entrecdte àd la la bourguignonne (see in the for Entrecôte the recipe for Calf's FolE DE r,c, (Creole cookery). FOIE DE VEAU wnu ÀALA la créole cr6ole (Créole Calfs liven àI la pieces of CRÉOLE of and lard with with small in slices small pieces liver in slices and Cut the the liver cnfou -- Cut larding Dust few drops drops of of oil. oil. Dust marinate in in aa few Leave to larding bacon. bacon. Leave to marinate lightly leave in in the in fat fat and and leave the Brown on on both both sides sides in lightly with with flour. flour. Brown corner pan, fry fry lightly 1I teaspoon teaspoon In the the same same pan, corner of of the the pan. In finely chopped and add add the the same same quantity chopped onion, and finely chopped onion, purie parsley, Tomato purée Blend aa little Tomalo parsley, breadcrumbs and and salt. salt. Blend (see (see SAUCE, white sauces) with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon white basic sauces) Brown basic SAUCE, Brown put wine and put Remove the the slices slices of of liver, and wine and and add add to to the the pan. Remove on Heat aa dish, put a mixture in in the the pan. Heat each aa little little of of the mixture on each knob and fill with with the the slices slices of liver. bottom, and at the knob of butter at the bottom, of butter Pour thick. which should should he be thick. Pour over sauce, which over the the sauce, Calf's vmu ÀA L'ESPAGNOLE L'EsPAcNoE - FoIE DE DE VEAU liver ài l'espagnole. ltespagnole. FOIE CalPs liver Cut and fry fry inin butter. butter. flour and with flour in slices, dredge with Cut in slices, season, season, dredge (see FONArrange FONArrange on on aa bed bed of of Tomato fondte àd lala Nigoise (see DUE). parsley. and fried parsley. rings and frid onion rings Garnish with \4rith fried DUE). Garnish CaIf's Cut FoIE DE DE VEAU vslu ÀA L'ITALIENNE L'nALIENNE- - Cut I'italienne. FOIE liver àI l'italienne. Cdf's liver into pepper, and and fry fry briskly briskly and pepper, with salt salt and into thin season with thin slices, slices, season (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see with Tomato in sizzling butter. Serve with butter. Serve LYoNNAISE- FoIE DE DE VEAU vE,c,u ÀALA LA LYONNAISE la lyonnaise. FOIE CalPs livcr lii la Cut flour, fry fry briskly briskly inin with flour, into thin Cut into strips. Season, dredge with thin strips. butter, mixed. Fry lightly lightly sliced sliced onion onion inin and oil oil mixed. or butter butter and butter, or butter few tablesp04:ms tablespoons Add aa few liver. Add and put on on top top of of the the liver. butter and rich jelly. Sprinkle with with aadash dash of vinegar veal stock or meat jelly. rich veal or meat heated parsley. pan and chopped parsley. and with chopped heated in in the same pan the same Calf's pilaf. FOIE DE VEAU VEAU EN EN P1LAF PILAF - - Cut Cut the the rore DE liver witb with pilaf. CalPs liver liver Fry briskly pieces, season with flour. flour. Fry briskly and dredge dredge with into pieces, season and liver into in (se PILAF). Rrce pilaf (see PILAF). dish with with Rice in aa dish in butter. butter. Serve Serve in Sprinkle Tomato with Tomato little veal veal stock, stock, flavoured with Sprinkle with with aa !ittle purée purde (see (see SAUCE, and boiled boiled down down to to basicsauces) sauces) and Brown basic SAUCE, Brown thicken it. thicken it. Calf's "-'V v '_l~'J""L.1O provengde. FOIE r.,tr rnoveNgru,n FoIE DE DEVEAU VEAU ÀALA liver lii lala provençale. Calfs liver - Cut giveninin the proceed as recipe for for Calves' asgiven therecipe and proceed Cut inin slices slices and -brains provengale. brains àd lala provençale. Roast Lard the liver with with vrlu RÔTI ROn- - Lard theliver liver. FOIE FoIE DE DEVEAU Roast calf's calfs Iiver. lardoons and 55cm. inches) inch) wide wide and cm.(2(2inches) cm. t\:Ginch) lardoons of of bacon bacon fat j cm. long. parsley,and and pepper, spices andchopped chopped parsley, with pepper, spicesand long. Season Seasonwith sprinkle sheet of ofsalt salt caulor Wrap ininaacau] or thin thinsheet with brandy. brandy. Wrap sprinkle with pork, andtie pork, previously soaked water, and tiewith with string. cold water, soaked inincold (se ~'-)'-".l'l~'" CULINARY roast inin the the oyen oven(see or roast Cook on on aa spit spitor METHGDS, verage cooking lime roasts). Dilute Dilute the time for the METHODS, AAverage forroasts). pan juices with pour over overthe the vealstock, pan juices stock,pour white wine wine or or clear veal with white liver liverand and serve. serve. Calf's vEAUEN ENBROCHETTES BRocITETTES - FoIEDE DEVEAU liver 011 skewers. FOIE CalPs Iiver onskewers. Cut (l| inches) pieces 31 andi f toto inches)square square and 3*cm. t-. 01 liver into into pieces Cut the the liver

cooked in cut down down to to the the size size of olives, olives, three-quarters cooked butter. butter. Season with with salt salt and pepper. Cook in the oyen, Season oven, uncovered. uncovered. in the 4 tablespoons ({ cup) Baste with 4 cup) veal veal stock. stock. Serve Serve in casserole. Sometimes mushrooms musbrooms lightly tossed in butter are added Sometimes to the garnish of the kidney. Grflled calves' ulves' kidneys. kidneys. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE VEAU GRILLÉS DE VEAU cnu,rfs -- Sii Slitt Grllled the kidney lengthways without without completely dividing itit into the halves. Put 22 metal metal skewers skewers through it to keep it it open. halves. through it to keep brush over over with melted melted butter and and cook cook under under aa Season, brush Maître d'hôtel grill. Serve with Matte d'h6tel butter (separately or on the butter, or any other kidney), Bercy butter, other sauce sauce specially recomfor grills. grills. (See (See BUTTER, Compound butters; mended for SAUCE.) ps VEAU Calves' kidneys li ]a veA,u A rA, la liégeoise. lt6geoise. ROGNONS RocNoNs DE Cdves' LIÉGEOISE - Cook the kidneys as in the as described in the recipe for rdcmlse Cook the Casserole of calves' kidneys. ki&teys. Add Add to to the the casserole 44 crushed juniper berries, 2 tablespoons tablespO()ns (3 (3 tablespoons) gin which has has tablespoons) gin set ablaze, (2 tabiespoons) ablaze, and and tablespoons tablespoons (2 tablespoons) thickbeen set ened veal stock. Serve as as it is.

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Calves' witb pilaf. ROGNONS DE VEAU VEAU EN EN PILAF PILAF -RocNoNs DE Calves'kidnefn with pilaf.

Prepared like like Calfs Iiver liver with pilaf (se below). RocNoNs DE DE VEAU vEAU kidneys sautéed Calvest kidneys saut6ed liI la bordehise. ROGNONS À LA BORDELAISE SAUTÉS A and cut into into small soRpsrAtsc -- Skin tbe slurfs the kidney and small slices. Season Season with salt and and pepper. Sauté Saute briskly in sizzling briskly in sizzling ove the hot. butter, rem remove the kidney and keep bot. Add (6 tablespoons, scant * cup) white wine wine to Add 1I dL dl. (6 to the the butter. Put Boil butter. Put in in 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots. shallots. Boil down; (scant i pint, generous cup) pint, generous down; add add 2| dl. cup) thickened dl. (scant thickened brown veal pan juices left veal stock, and the left over over from from frying the brown stock, and the pan Put the kidney kidney. Boil down to the desired desired consistency. consistency. Put to the into the sauce (3 tablespoons) diced diced beef sauce with with 22 tablespoons (3 marrow, and weil marrow, poached and well drained. Mix, and serve in a dish sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped chopped parsley. Ca.lves' sautdcd witb with mushrooms. mushrulnr$ ROGNONS RocNoNs DE DE Calves' kidneys kldneyr santéed VEAU vrlu SAUTÉS kidney into into small slurts AUX AUx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNs -- Cut Cut the the kidney small sUces, pepper and and sauté briskly in in and pepper slices, season season with with salt salt and saute briskly sizzling Remove the and keep keep hot. hot. sizding butter. butter. Remove the sUces slices and Fry Remove them Fry 44 sliced mushrooms in in the same butter. butter. Remove them the same sliced mushrooms and and add add to to the the kidney. Pour (6 tablespoons, scant cup) Madeira Madeira into into aa Pour 1I dl. dl. (6 scant + cup) ''''HJ'''''pa,", i cup) thickened pint,3 veal add 1-!l{ dl. dl. (| pint, brown veal saucepan, add thickened brown . . ,.,. ou ,~ ...... , and juices left (ser', .SAUCE) and the left or Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see the juices stock or over Boil down down bya over from from the the kidney. kidney. Boil by a good third. third. Put mushrooms into this which Put the kidneys and and the this sauce, sauce, which the kidneys the rnushrooms should quite tbick. Add 11 tablespoon butter. butter. Shake Shake the should he be quite the thick. Add pan pan to mix weil. Heap on well. Heap on aa shallow shallow dish. to mix Sautéed with various various wmes. wines. ROGNONS RocNoNs Saut6ed calves' calves' kidneys kidneys witb SAUTÉS (with or or without without slurfs AU AU VIN vrN -- Prepare Prepare as as described described above above (with mushrooms) mushrooms) and replace Madeira Madeira by Chablis, Sauternes, and replace Chablis, Sauternes, Graves Burgundy, Graves or or another another white white wine wine or or aa red wine: wine: Burgundy, Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Côtes wine, Rhine Rhine wine, wine, etc. etc. C6tes du du Rhône, Rh6ne, Alsatian Alsatian wine,

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Ca.lves' DE VEAU vEAU EN EN RocNoNs DE Calves' kidneys kidneys 00 on skewers. skewers. ROGNONS Skin kidneys and and cut into unifonn uniform pieces. Skin the cut into the kidneys Season metal skewers, Season with with salt and pepper. Put Put on on metal skewers, alternsalt and Dip inin ating with with pieces of lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Dip of bacon, lightly grill under flame. Serve Serve with with breadcrumbs and and grill under aa brisk brisk flame. Maitre Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter, Bercy butter butter or recombutter, Bercy or aa special special sauce sauce recommended (see BUTTER, grills (see mended for for grills BUTTER, Compound Compound butters; butters;

BROCHETTES BRocHETTES -

SAUCE).

Calf's ForE DE DE VEAU vnlu ÀA L'ANGLAISE L'ANGLAIsE -- Cut Calfs liver lii I'anglaise. FOIE Cut the pepper, calf's liver liver into with salt and pepper, into thin slices, the calf's slices, season season with salt and dredge quickly inin sizzling and fry dredge Iightly lightly with with flour flour and fry very very quickly sizzling butter. Arrange on dish with with thin Brown on on aa dish butter. Brown on both both sides. sides. Arrange thin rashers pan as rashers of as the of bacon, fried in in butter butter in in the liver. bacon, fried the same same pan the liver. me size, Serve in down to Serve with with potatoes cut cut down to the same size, boiled boiled in the sa salted potatoes. salted water water and well well drained, drained, or or with with steamed steamed potatoes. 643 643

OFFAL OFFAL cm. (} inch) thick. quickly in to I inch) thick. Fry Fry these these quickly in butter butter to to stiffen stiffen $ loi 1I cm. metal skewers, them. Put Put them on metal them on skewers, alternating alternating with with rows rows of of them. lean bacon bacon cut cut to to the the same same size and lightly size and lightly fried. fried. Brush Brush with with lean melted butter butter and and dip in breadcrumbs. dip in breadcrumbs. Grill, Grill, and and serve with serve with melted (see BUTTER, Maftre d'Miel d'h6tel bul/er butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound bul/ers), butters), MaÎlre or serve serve with with one one of of the the sauces sauces specially specially recommended recommended for for or grills, such (see SAUCE). such as as Diable, Diable, Piquante, Piquante, Bordelaise Bordelaise (see SAUCE). grills, Mushrooms, eut cut into into thick thick slices slices and and lightly lightly tossed in tossed in Mushrooms, can also also be added to butter, can be added to the the liver. liver. butter, liver soufflé. sorff6. SOUFFLÉ CalPs liver sourr,f DE DE FOIE ForE DE DE VEAU vEAU ~- Pound Pound Calf's (18 oz.) g. (l8 500 g. oz.) braised braised calf's calf's liver liver in pur6e in in aa morlar mortar or or purée in 500 (3 oz., electric blender g. (3 blender with with 75 75 g. o2.,6 tablespoons) butter butter and and 6 tablespoons) electric pint, seant dl. (~(+ pint, scant cup) cup) very very thick (see thick Béchamel Bdchamel sauce sa:uce (see 22 dl. yolks and SAUCE). Bind Bind with with 33 cgg egg yolks and I dl. dl. (3(3 tablespoons, tablespoons, SAUCE). scant :tI cup) cup) double double crcam. cream. Season pepper and Season with with salt, and salt, pepper scant nutmeg. Rub Rub through through aa sieve sieve with with aa wood wooden spoon. Add Add 33 nutmeg. en spoon. very stiftly stifly beaten beaten egg egg whites. whites. very (see Pour into into aa buttered buttered soufflé souffi6 dish dish and and bake in in the oyen oven (see Pour SOUFFLE,). SOUFFLÉ). lungs ili la la bourgeoise. Calves' bourgeoise. MOU Mou DE DE VEAU A LA VEAU À r,q, BOURnounCa Ives' lungs cEoIsE ~- Calves' prepared àd la Calves' lungs lungs can (see can be be prepared la bourgeoise bourgeolse (sec GEOISE GARNISHES). See See below, below, Slewed Stewed calves' for method. method. calves' lungs Iungs for GARNISHES). pouLETTE ~ poulette. MOU Calves'lnngs la poulette. Mou DE DE VEAU veeu À A LA LA POULETTE Ca Ives' luugs ili la pieces, simmer Cut in in small small pieces, simmer in in bUller pan and butter in in covered covered pan Cut finish cooking cooking as as described (lambs') described in in the recipe recipe for for Sheep's Sheep's (lambs') finish poulette. trotters àd la la pou/elle. trollers Stewed calves' calves' hmgs. lungs. CIVET crvEr DE DE MOU Mou DE DE VEAU vEAU ~ Cut the Stewed - Cut (2 oz.) g. (2 pieces. Season lungs into into 50 50 g. oz.) pieces. pepper. Season with with salt and pepper. salt and lungs Brown in in bu butter. Brown tter. pieces are When the the pieces are brown, sprinkle in in 33 tablespoons tablespoons When brown, sprinkle (scant if, cup) cup) flour. flour. Allow flour to the flour cook for for aa few moments, moments, (seant Allow the to cook (undiluted red wine or it. Add stirring il. Add enough enough red wine (undiluted or half stirring red wine half wine and half stock) to cover the good bouquet the lungs. lungs. Add wine and half stock) to cover Add aa good (q.v.) and garni (q.v.) garlic and and 1I crushed crushed clove clove of of garlic and mix. Cook in mix. Cook in aa garni moderate oyen with aa lid oven with lid on on for for l~ l| hours. hours. moderate Remove put them of lung, them into Remove the the pieces pieees of lung, put into aa shallow pan pan (9 oz., with 250 g. cup) lean oz., generous diced bacon, B. (9 with 250 generous cup) lean diced bacon, blanched blanched (9 OZ., and g. (9 250 g. o2,33 cups) cups) mushrooms, and frid fried in in butter, butter, 250 mushrooms, sliced ifif they they are are big, big, whole whole if if small, small, 24 24 small small fried fried onions. Strain the and pour Continue to the pan pan juices juices and pOUI over. over. Continue to cook in in the oven oyen for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Garnish Garnish with with heart-shaped heart-shaped crottons croûtons of of bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Calfs Calf's mesentery. mesentery. FRATSE FRAISE DE DE vEAU VEAU -~ The The fold fold of of peritoneum peritoneum which which attaches attaches part part of of the the intestinal intestinal canal canal to to the posterior posterior wall sold in wall of of the the aMomen. abdomen. It It is is not not sold in the the U.S.A. U.S.A. Fried Fried calfs ca.lf's mesentery. meselltery. FRATsE FRAISE DE DE vEAU VEAU FRrrE FRITE -~ Drain Drain the mesentery mesentery cooked cooked in in the the special special court-bouillon court-bouillon given given for for (see above). Calf Calj'ss head head(see above). Dry, Dry, cut cut in in square square pieces, pieces, season season the pieces, dip in in lightly lightly beaten beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and deeppieces, dip fry in sizzling sizzling fat. fat. fry in Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with aa spiced sauce sauce such as Diable, Piquante, Piquallle, etc. etc. (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). as Diable, Calf's Calf's mesentery meselltery ià la la hongroise. hongroise. FRATSE FRAISE on DE veau VEAU A À rl LA HoNGRoISE HONGROISE -~ Cut Cut the the mesentery mesentery into into uniform unifonn pieces, pieces, fry fry briskly briskly for for aa few few minutes minutes in in butter, butter, sprinkling sprinkling them them with with aa good good pinch pinch of of paprika. paprika. Serve Serve with with Hungarian Hungarian sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Calf's Calfs mesentery meselltery ià lTndienne. l'indielllle. FRATSE FRAISE DE DE VEAU VEAU A À r'nvnrcNNn L'INDIENNE Cut the the mesentery mesentery into into uniform unifonn slices, put put them them for for a few few -~ Cut moments moments into into Curry Curry sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with Rice Rice dà l'l'indienne indienne (see' (see RICE). RICE). Calfs Calf's mesentery mesentery Ià la la lyonnaise. IYOllllaise. FRATSE FRAISE on DE vulu VEAU A À ra LA LyoNNArsE Cook the the mesentery mesentery as as described described above, above, cut cut itit LYONNAISE -~ Cook into into thin thin strips strips and and proceed proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Tripe Tripe dà ln la lyonnaise lyonnaise (see (see above). above). Calfs Calf's mesentery mesentery iil la la poulette. poulette. FRATsE FRAISE oE DE vsau VEAU A À rA, LA IoULETTE POULETTE -~ Cook Cook the the mesentery mesentery as as above, above, cut eut into into uniform uniform

pieces and proceed as and proceed as described described in in the for Tripe recipe for the recipe Tripe àd la la pieces poulette (sec (see above). above). poulelle Calves' sweetbreads. RIS Rrs DE DE VEAUvEAU - Soak Soak the the sweetbreads Ca Ives' sweetbreads. sweetbreads in cold cold water water until until they they become become white. white. Cover Cover with with salted in salted cold water water in in aa saucepan, saucepan, and and bring bring slowly slowly to to the the boil, cold boil, frequently with stirring frequently with aa wooden wooden spoon. At the the tirst spoon. At first sign sign of of stirring boiling, cool cool under under running running water. water. boiling, Drain the put between the sweetbreads, sweetbreads, trim, trim, put between two two cloths cloths under under Drain board with with aa weight weight on on top. top. aa board With aa larding larding needle needle insert insert into into the the sweetbreads sweetbreads strips strips of of With pieces oftruftle, bacon, stud stud with with pieces of truffie, ton ham; or tongue, or leave leave them bacon, gue, ham; them are, according as they they are, according to to the the use use for for which which they are are intended. as Cook aceording according to recipe chosen. to the the recipe chosen. Cook Calves'sweetbreads I'anversoise. RIS Rrs DE DE VEAU velu ÀA l.'ANVERL'ANvERCalves' sweetbreads àI l'anversoise. solsE ~- Braise Braise in in white garnish white stock, stock, serve with Anversoise gamish serve with SOISE (see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) and pan juices, with and the the panjuices, with veal veal stock stock added added (sce and boiled dO'INTI down to to the the desired desired consistency. consistency. and Attereaux of calves' calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ~- Sec ATTEREAUX. See ATTEREAUX. At1ereaux Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads àt la la banquière. banquiire. RIS nrs DE os VEAU vrA,u ÀA LA r.a Calves' sA,|reuriRE ~- Braise (see below). Braise in in white white stock below). Serve stock (sce Serve with BANQUIÈRE (see GARNISHES). garnish (see Banquiire gamish GARNISHES). Banquière Calves' sweelbreads sweetbreads braised braised in in brown brown stock. stock. RIS Rrs DE DE VEAU Calves' sRAtsfo À A BRUN snuN ~- Put Put the the calves' calves' sweetbreads, prepared as sweetbreads, prepared as BRAISÉS describod above, above, into aa shallow pan pan with butter, in in which which 1I described tablespoon diced diced salt salt pork or bacon bacon rinds rinds have have been tablespoon pork or Add thinly sliced slicod on onions Season, and and browned. Add ions and carrots. Season, (q.v.). add aa bouquel bouquet garni (q.v.). add gently in Cook gently in the pan, add the covered covered pan, add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons Cook glazd condition, and and add add aa few few white wine, boil down to aa glazed tablespoons brown veal tablespoons veal stock. Finish cooking cooking as as described described in in the recipe for for Ca/ves' Finish the recipe Calves' sweetbreads braised braised in white glare for a little longer. while stock but glaze sweetbreads garnish as indic3ted and garnish indicated in the Serve and the chosen recipe. The liquid for moistening should be The liquid used used for moistening sweetbreads should very thick. Calves' sweetbreads braised stock. Rrs Calves' braised in in white white stock. RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU BRAIsf,s cooled and À nuNc BLANC ~ Put Put the the blanched, cooled and pressed BRAISÉS A (larded, studded sweetbreads (larded, studded or or left sweetbreads left plain, plain, according according to recipe) into into aa shallow pan in which which some bacon rinds rinds have been been browned in butter, butter, with finely fmely sliced carrots carroIS and onions. Season and add a a small bouquet bouquel garni garni (q.v.). (g.v.). Stew under a a lid lid on aa gentle gentle fire. lire. Add a few tablespoons white stock. Bring to the boil, cover, coyer. cook in the oven oyen from 35 35 to 45 minutes, basting frequently frequently with the juices. juices. As As soon as the sweetbreads sweetbreads are cooked, glaze them very lightly (if the recipe calls for such glazing) by exposing exposing them lightly (if for for a few minutes, uncovered, to the heat of the oven, oyen, and basting basting them them with with the fat fat of the pan juices. juices. Remove the sweetbreadg sweetbreads, strain strain the the pan juices. juices. Serve Serve and and garnish gamish as indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. Calves' Ca Ives' sweetbreads sweetbreads Clamart. Rrs RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU cLAMART CLAMART ~ Braise Braise in in brown brown stock. Serve with Clamart Clamart garnish (or with green green peas peas and butter) butter) and the the pan pan juices juices poured poured over over (see (see GARNTSHES). GARNISHES). Escalopes Escalopes ofcalvesn of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. EscALopEs E.~CALOPf.S DE DE Rrs RIS DE DE velu VEAU A À L'ANcTENNE L'ANCIENNE ~ Cut the the sweetbreads sweetbreads into into thick thick slices and and braise braise in in white white stock stock as as in in recipe recipe above. above. Arrange Arrange on on the the inner inner edge edge of of aa large large puff puff pastry pastry shell. Fill Fill the the centre centre with with a ragofrt rago';l of of cock's cock's combs combs and and cock's cock's kidneys, kidneys, trufres truftles and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with Veloutd Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made made with with chicken chic ken stock stock boiled boiled down down with with cream cream and and flavoured fiavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. Put Put a a sliver sliver of of truffie truffie on on each each escalope. escalope. Escalopes Escalopes of ofcalves' calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads in in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. EscALopEs ESCALOPES DE DE RIs RIS DE DE velu VEAU plNfns PANÉES -~ Cut Cut the the escalopes escalopes as as describd described above. above. Dip Dip in in lightly lightly beaten beaten egg cgg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Fry Fry them them in in clarifiod clarified butter butter (see (sec CLARIFICATIONI). CLARIFICATION). Serve Serve with with garnish gamish and and sauce sauce recommended recommended in in the the recipe. recipe.

J

6M 644

OFFAL OFFAL slie slice the the sweetbreads, sweetbreads, arrange in a circle circle on a buttered buttered dish, surround surround with with sliced sliced mushrooms, mushrooms, cover cover tvith with Duxelles Duxelles sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), sprinkle sprinkle with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and brown brown the top. When ready ready to serve, sprinkle sprinkle with aa little little lemon lemon juice juice and chopped parsley. parsley. Escalopes Escalopes of of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ià I'italienne. l'italienne. EscALoPEs ESCALOPES DE DE Rrs RIS DE DE vnlu VEAU A À L'ITALIEI.IvE L'ITALIENNE - Fry escalopes of of braised sweetbreads breads in oil. Pour Pour over ltaliot Italian sauce sauce (s* (see SAUCE). Escalopes of maréchale. rsclroprs ESCALOPES of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ià la mar6chale. DE DE Rrs RIS DE DE VEAU VEAU A À r.,c, LA T,IAR6cHALE MARÉCHALE - Dip Dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and and fry in breadcrumbs of breadcrumbs and and fry in butter. butter. Garnish with with slivers slivers of truffies trufHes and and cooked cooked asparagus asparagus tips tips dressed dressed with with butter. Sprinkle with the butter Sprinkle butter left in the pan pan in which which the the escalopes escalopes were cooked. Escalopes of calves' sweetbrea& sweetbreads à la milanaise. milanaise. EscALoPEs ESCALOPES DE Rrs RIS DE DE VEAU A Àu LA urrlNltsn MILANAISE -- Coat Coat witha with a mixture mixture of of grated grated cheese and in the the and breadcrumbs, and finish off as described described in milanaise (see recipe for Veal chops àd la milanaise recipe for (see VEAL). VEAL). ESCALOPFS DE DE Escalopes of of calves' calves' sweetbreads Rossini Rossini. EscALoPEs as described described complete as RIs RIS DE vEAU VEAU nossttu ROSSINI -- Fry Fry in butter, butter, and complete Rossini (see in the recipe for for Tournedos Rossini (see BEEF). BEEF). EscALoPEs Saint-Germaitl ESCALOPES Escalopes of sweetbreads Saint-Germain. Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads DE RIS Rrs DE vEAU sArNT-cERMlnq -- Cut a sweetbread which which has VEAU SAINT-GERMAIN into four and cooled under a been been soaked, blanched and a press press into and pepper, dredge with with salt Season salt and escalopes. Se as on with pepper, dredge with flour Rour and fry in butter. RIs RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU AU AU cRATIN GRATIN - Braise and and

-

Escalopes Escalopes ofcalves' of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads dà I'ancrenne l'ancienne

The The escalopes escalopes can can be be coated coated with with mushrooms, mushrooms, ham, chopped parsley, truffies, truffles, grated Parmesan, Parmesan, mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.), (q,v.),

i

etc. (See GARNISHES; SAUCE.) Escalopes of calves' calves' sweetbreads in butter. butter. EscALoPEs ESCALOPES DE Rrs RIS DE DE VEAU VEAU AU AU BEURRE - Blanch and and cool under a press. press. Cut the sweetbreads sweetbreads into 3 or 4 escalopes each, depending saut6 in butter. Rour and sauté butter. on thickness. Season, dredge with flour Serve with the garnish and sauce recommended Serve recommended in the recipe

-

GARNISHES, SAUCE). GARNISHES, SAUCE). sauce. Fried escalopes escalopes of calves' sweetbreads in allemande sauce.

(see

- Fry in crofftons, and and serve with Allemande fried croûtons, butter, arrange on fried sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). gratin. EscALopEs sweetbreads au au gratin. ESCALOPFS DE Escalopes of calves' calves'sweetbreads EscALopEs DE Rrs slur6ns A ESCALOPES RIS DE VEAU VEAU SAUTÉFS À t'artnu,tNoE L'ALLEMANDE -

(Roberr Carrier) pastry case Escalopes of served in in aa pastry case (Rober! ofcalves' sweetbreads served Carrier) Escalopes calves' sweetbreads

u5 645

OFFAL OFFAL Arrange each on a little cake of Anna potatoes (see Arrange each on a little cake of Anna potatoes (see POTATOES). Top with a trickle of very thlck Biarnaise POT ATOES). Top with a trickle of very thick Béarnaise sauce (see SAUCE) and in the centre of the sauce put a in the centre of the sauce put a sauce (see SAUCE) and small teaspoon meat jelly. Add a little butter to the boiledjelly. Add a little butter to the boiledsmall teaspoon meat

japonaise. RIS Calyes'sweetbreads sweetbreads àil lata japonaise. DEVEAU RrsDE vEAUÀALA LA Calves' Braise ininbrown brownstock stockasasininabove above recipe. recipe. Serve Serve -Braise juicesand withthe theboiled-down boiled-downpan panjuices garnish with andgarnish withChinese with Chinese (seeGARNISHES). artichokes (see GARNISHES). artichokes jardini0re. RIS pe VEAU Calves'sweetbreads sweetbreads ài lala jardinière. rusDE vnA,uÀALA rA, Calves' ranDrNdnn- - Braise Braise ininbrown brown stock stockasasininabove above recipe; recipe;serve JARDINIÈRE serve withJardinière Jardiniiregarnish garnish(see (seeGARNISHES) GARNISHES)and pan with and the the pan juices boiled boiled down. down. juices Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads àI la la macédoine. mac6doine. RIS nrsDE oB VEAU vreu ÀA LA u Calves' uecfoonr - - Braise Braise inin brown brownstock, stock, as as described described above. above. MACÉDOINE garnish àdlalamacédoine Servewith with garnish (see GARNISHES). macddoine (see GARNISHES). Serve Calves'sweetbreads Nantua I.I. RIS Rrs DE DEVEAU vEAU ÀALA r-l NANTUA NeNrul Calves' sweetbreads àlla la Nantua Braisein in white white stock, stock, without (see above). without larding larding (see above). Scoop Scoop -- Braise about two-thirds two-thirds out out of of the the top top part. part. Fill Fill with with Crayfish Crayfish tail tail about ragofrt àd laIa Nantua (see CRA Nantua (see CRAYFISH), substituting, ifif ragoût YFISH), substituting, necessary, 22 small lobsters for small lobsters for the the crayfish. crayfish. Garnish Garnish the necessary, the part of main part of the the sweetbreads sweetbreads with with this this mixture. mixture. main Cover with with Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkle sprinkle with with Coyer breadcrumbs, glaze glaze ligh lightly in the the oyen. oven. Arrange Arrange on on croûtons, breadcrumbs, tly in cro0tons, garnish with with very very small patty shells small patty shells filled filled with with the the crayfish crayfish garnish garnish and and slivers slivers of of truffles. truffies. Serve Serve with with Suprême SuprAme sauce, sauce, to to garnish which Crayfish Crayfish butter butter isis added. (See SAUCE; added. (See SAUCE; BUTTER, BUTTER, which Compound butters.) butters.) Compound Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ài la la Nantua Nantua II. II. RIS nrs DE DE VEAU vEAU À Calves' A LA LA NANTUA -- Braise Braise in in white white stock (see above). stock (see above). Garnish Garnish with NANTUA with crayfish tails, tails, shrimps shrimps or pieces of or pieces meat and of lobster meat and slivers crayfish slivers of truffle. truffie. Coyer Cover with with Suprême SuprAme sauce sauce with with the the boiled-down of juices, pan juices, to to which which Crayfish Crayfish butter butter has (See has been been added. added. (See pan SAUCE; BUTTER, BUTTER, Compoundbutters.) Compound butters.) SAUCE; Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ài la pdrigourdine. RIS la périgourdine. Rrs DE DE VEAU vBau À Calves' A LA r_A, p6RrcounornE Braise in in brown stock (see above). Garnish PÉRIGOURDINE -- Braise with truffles truffies cut cut in in thin thin slices or diced. diced. Serve with Madeira with (see SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) made with boiled-down juices. boiled-down pan juices. sauce pocH6s - PrePoached calves' calves'sweetbreads. Rrs DE Poached sweetbreads. RIS DE vEAU VEAU POCHÉS - prepare sweetbreads as as described described at at the beginning of this pare the the sweetbreads section and and put Cover with white stock. section put into into aa saucepan. Coyer Bring to Bring to the the boil, boil, remove scum and simmer gently 35 to 40 minutes, depending on size. size. Drain Drain the sweetbreads sweetbreads and strain minutes, depending the the stock. stock. Serve Serve and and garnish garnish as as described described in the recipe recipe used. used. Calves' RIS or DE vrlu VEAU pof;r,fs POÊLÉS -- prepare Prepare the Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads poGl6. poêlé. nrs sweetbreads Heat I1 generous generous tablespoon sweetbreads as as described described above. above. Heat butter butter in in a a shallow shallow frying frying pan, pan, put put in in the the sweetbreads, sweetbreads, season, and cook cook covered on gentle gentle heat heat 35 to to 40 minutes. minutes. season. and Garnish, Garnish, and and serve as as described described in in the the particular particular recipe. recipe. Calves' RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU pRrNcEssE PRINCESSE -Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads princessg. princesse. RJs Poach Poach or or braise braise in in white white stock stock (see (see above). above). Serve Serve with with Princess GARNISHES) and and white white Allemande Allemande Prin cess garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES) sauce made with with the the boiled-down boiled-down pan pan juices. juices. sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) made Calves'sweetbreads Calves' sweetbreads with with various various pur6es. purées. Rrs RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU AUx AUX punfns PURÉES -- Braise Braise in in brown brown stock stock (see (see above). above). Serve Serve with with pur6e purée of of any any of of the the following following vegetables: vegetables: artichokes, artichokes, asparagus, asparagus, aubergines, aubergines, carrots, carrots, mushrooms, mushrooms, cucumbers, cucumbers, kidney kidney beans, beans, French French beans, beans, lentils, lentils, onions, onions, green green peas, peas, soubise. soubise. Calves'sweetbreads Calves' sweetbreads R6gence. Régence. Rrs RIS DE DE vnau VEAU nfcsNcE RÉGENCE -- Stud Stud with with slivers slivers of of truffie. truffle. Braise Braise in in white white stock stock (see (see above). above). Serve Serve with with Rigence Régencegarnl'sfr garnish and and Allemande Allemandesauce sauce madewith made with the the concentrated concentrated pan panjuices juices (see (see GARNISHES, GARNISHES, SAUCE). SAUCE). Roast Roast calves' calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Rrs RIS DE DE vs.Au VEAU ndrts RÔTIS -- prepare Prepare sweetbreads sweetbreads as as described described above. above. Lard Lard them them with with strips strips of of fat fat bacon, bacon, or or leave leave plain. plain. Season, Season, wrap wrap in in aa sheet sheet oi of salt salt pork pork or orin in aa piece pieceof ofcaul, caul, and and put put on onaa spit. spit. Cook Cookover overbrisk briskheat heatfor for35 35minutes. minutes.Serve Serveand andgarnish garnishas as described particularrecipe. recipe. described in in the theparticular Soufr6 of calves' calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Rrs RIS DE DE vseu VEAU souFFr,6 SOUFFLÉ -Soufflé of Braise Braise sweetbreads sweetbreads in in white white stock stock (see (see above) above) and and hollow hollow out. out. Prepare Prepare the the sgooped-out scooped-out pieces piecesas as aa souffi6 soufflé(q.v.) (g.v.) and and JApoNArsEJAPONAISE

down pan juices, and spoon around the escalopes. down pan juices, and spoon around the escalopes. Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads can be grilled instead of ca Ives' sweetbreads can be grilled instead of Escalopes of being fried in butter. being fried in butter.

Escalopes ofcalves' sweetbreads with trufles Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads with truffles

Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads with truffies. EscALopEs Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads with truffles. ESCALOPES Cook the the escalopes escalopes in in butter. butter. - Cook Arrange on cro0tons of bread fried in butter and put on Arrange on croûtons of bread fried in butter and put on each escalope or 4 slivers of truffie heated in butter. Garnish each escalope 33 or slivers oftruffle heated in butter. Garnish the middle of 4the the dish dish with with Noisette Noisette potatoes (see the middle of potatoes (see POTATOES). Add Madeira and veal stock toihepan juices, POT ATOES). Add Madeira and veal stock to the panjuices, boil down, and pour over the escalopes. boil down, and pour over the escalopes. Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads Villeroi. EscALopEs DE Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads Villeroi. ESCALOPES DE RIs DE VEAU vrLLERor - Braise and slice the sweetbreads, coat RIS DE VEAU VILLEROI - Braise and slice the sweetbreads, coat with Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE), dip with Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE), dip in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry. fry. in a ring _ Arrange Arrange in a ring on on aa dish, dish, and and garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve with Pirigueux or Tomato sauce (see SAUCEi. Serve with Périgueux or Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). Calves'sweetbreads i la fermiire. Rrs DE vr.nu rrRurine Calves' sweetbreads à la fermière. RIS DE VEAU FERMIÈRE -Braise in brown stock (see above). When half-cooked add Braise in brown stock (see above). When half-cooked add Fermilre garnish (see GARNISHES) .. Finish Finish cooking cooking Fermière garnish (see GARNISHES).. together and serve with its own juices. together and serve with its own juices. Calves'sweetbreads i la financiire. nrs op vnau A ur Calves' sweetbreads à la financière. RIS DE VEAU À LA rsNrA,NcdRr - Stud the sweetbreads with pieces of truffe FINANCIÈRE - Stud the sweetbreads with pieces of truffle and Pickled(scarlet) beefor ox tongue (see above). Braise in and Pickled(scarlet) beefor ox tongue (see above). Braise in brown stock, serve with Financidre garnish and Financiire brown stock, serve with Financière garnish and Financière sauce with the pan juices added (see GARNISHES: sauce with the pan juices added (see GARNISHES; SAUCE). SAUCE). This is usually served either on frie-d crottons or in a pie This is usually served either on frie'd croûtons or in a pie crust. crust. Grilled calves' _ Rinse, DE VEAU cRrLLEs RIS DE vEAU GRILLÉS - Rinse, GriUed calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Rrs blanch, cool and press the sweetbreads. Brush with melted blanch, cool and press the sweetbreads. Brush with melted butter, season and grill under a moderate flame. Serve and butter, season and grill under a moderate ftame. Serve and garnish as indicated in the recipe. garnish as indicated in the recipe. IfIfthe the sweetbreads sweetbreads are are too too big, big, divide dividethem them horizontally horizontallyin in halves before grilling them. halves before grilling them. Grilled calves'sweetbreads with various gamislres. Rrs DE GriUed calves' sweetbreads with various garnishes. RIS DE vEAU GRTLLf - Garnish with braised or buttered vegetables, VEAU GRILLÉ - Garnish with braised or buttered vegetables, pur6es of green or dried vegetables (the pur6es are usually purées of green or dried vegetables (the purées are usually served separately), fried mushrooms, grilled or saut6ed served separately), fried mushrooms, grilled or sautéed tomatoes, spinach, braised chicory, noodles, risotto, etc. tomatoes, spinach, braised chicory, noodles, risotto, etc. (see GARNISHES). (see GARNISHES). According According to to the the garnish garnish chosen, chosen, serve serve with with Maitre Maître d'h6tel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters), or one of d'hôtel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters), or one of the sauces specially recommended for grills: Diable, Italian, the sauces speciaHy recommended for grills: Diable, ltahan, Marrow, Piquant, Robert, etc. (see SAUCE). Marrow, Piquant, Robert, etc. (see SAUCE). DE Rrs DE vEAU AUx TRUFFES DE RIS DE VEAU AUX TRUFFES -

646 646

OIL OIL into two two categories: categories: siccative siccative In industry, oils are divided into (which thicken not turn turn rancid do not quick-drying oils (which or nl1'l"Lc_l1rVIInO thicken but do air), and non-siccative oils, which tend when exposed to the air), do not not thicken. thicken. to the the air, but but do to turn rancid when exposed to nt6rfrlQun -- Dieticians Dieticians and and HUILE EN eN DIÉTÉTIQUE OiI in OH in dietetics. dietetics. HUILE all gastronomes both agree that vegetable oils are the best of of ail gastronomes

fill the the hollowed-out hollowed-out parts with it. Bake Bake in a slow oven oyen l2 12 to fill 15 minutes. minutes. Arrange on a cro0ton. croûton. Serve with the garnish sauce recommended recommended in the recipe. recipe. and sauce rus DE DE VEAU VEAU TALLEYRAND TALLEYRANDCalves' sweetbreads sweetbreads Talleyrand. TaUeyrand. RIs Calves' Stud with with truffies. truffles, braise braise in brown brown stock as described described above, above, Stud Talleyrand sauce (see (see SAUCE) rnade made with with the serve with with Talleyrand serve boiled-down pan pan juices. boiled-down Toulousaine. Rrs RIS DE vEAU VEAU Calves' sweetbreads Toulouse Toulouse or Toulousaine. Calves'sweetbreads TOULOUSE, TouLousAINn TOULOUSAINE - Poach or braise in white stock Tout-ousE, and Allemande (see (see above). above). Serve Serve with with Toulouse garnish garnish and Allemande (see GARNboiled-down pan juices juices (see sauce made with the boiled-down ISHES; SAUCE). ISHES;SAUCE). Calves' sweetbreads with various vegetables. RJs rus DE DE vEAU VEAU Calves'sweetbreads (see above), above), and AUX r,6cuues LÉGUMES - Braise in brown brown stock stock (see Braise in nux various buttered or braised vegetables: vegetables: young garnish with various carrots, mushrooms, mushrooms, celery, celery, cipes, cèpes, chicory, chicory, cucumbers, cucumbers, carrots, endives, young beans, shoots of young hops, hops, kidney kidngy beans, ofyoung endives, glazed onions, French beans, beans, lettuce, Iettu ce , sweet corn, morels, morels, glazed French boiled-down pan juices. green peas and the boiled-down tongue. LANcuE LANGUE DE VEAU -- All Ail the the methods methods of DE vEAU Calfs tongue. given for beef or preparation given braised, with for beef or ox ox tongue: braised, garnishes, grilled, Italian grilled, àd la with ltalian la diable, diable, fried, with various garnishes, sauce, etc., can be used used for cooking tongue. cooking calf's tangue. (see Calf's tongue, cooked court'bouillon (see in aa special special court-bouillon cooked in Calf's tongue, is always always served served with Calf ss head), head), is recipe for for cooking cooking Calf' calf's head.

in the provided that they have not been been adulterated in food fats, provided process of manufacture.

It isis made made from from carefully oil. It ideal oil The ideal oil isis unrefined oil. The or grain, nuts which are are husked, husked, shelled shelled or fruit, which or fruit, selected grain, selected nuts or stoned as the case may be. stoned pressed in in aa hydra hydraulic are then then pressed The fruits fruits and and almonds are The ulic presses of presses is, in in aa cold cold press. Other Other types of press, ideally, that is, 60' of the product to between 60" can raise raise the the temperature of can v (140"0 and 194' 194"F.). 90"C. and 90 C. (140 F.). 'virgin' oil. guaranteed 'virgin' oil. ItIt isis The ail oil th thus obtained isis guaranteed The us obtained point of view and and isis the the of view culinary point the best from aa culinary considered the considered 'guaranteed labelled 'guaranteed authorised to to be be labelled which isis authorised only one one which only 'guaranteed first first cold-press cold-press of 'guaranteed addition of virgin oil'. The addition oil'. The virgin in its its have been been used used in no solvents that no solvents have extraction' indicates that manufacture. disrefined oils the use use of of refined oils isis disThis does does not not mean mean that that the This fact, sorne are harmful. In In fact, some oils oils are nor that that they they are are harmful. couraged, nor couraged, case with with Such isis the the case refined. Such not edible they are are refined. edible unless unless they not refined, their their Even though though refined, and peanut oils. oils. Even maize, soya and maize, may quality content may their vitamin vitarnin content is indisputable. Certainly Certainly their qua lit y is valuable many other they retain retain many other valuable but they be slightly slightly reduced, but be anticholesterol; soya soya for example, properties. Corn example, isis anticholesterol; properties. Corn oil, for rich in in albuminoids albuminoids for diabetics, since since itit isis rich excellent for oil oil isis excellent Nevertheless, gourmets in carbohydrates. carbohydrates. Nevertheless, and deficient deficient in and just as dietas the dietprefer to olive oil, oil; just to cook cook with with unrefined unrefined olive prefer prefer unrefined even sesame or or even unrefined sunflower, sunflower, sesame conscious conscious prefer pumpkin oil. pumpkin oil. fats.It food fats. of ail all food the best best of It Virgin Virgin olive olive oil oil isis undoubtedly undoubtedly the (for preferably in in its its raw raw state frequently and and preferably state (for should should be be used used frequently the in mind, mind, however, however, that that the seasoning, etc.), bearing bearing in seasoning, salads, salads, etc.), for aa 50 g.g. (1* oz.) oz.) for not to to exceed exceed 50 daily ought not fat ought daily intake intake of of fat very active active labourer or g. (2i for aa labourer or very sedentary adult; 65 oz.) for 65 g. sedentary adult; Q* oz.) individual. individual. D'AMANDES DOUCES DoucEs HUILE D'AMANDES Oïl bitter almonds. almonds. HUILE Oil of of sweet sweet and and bitter pr rurainrs - Extracted in linen and linen bags almonds put in bags and from almonds Extracted from confectionery. This oil used in confectionery. oil isis used subjected to pressure. This from cotton LOU(]ln-l5ee~(I cotton nuIls DE DE COTON coroN -- Extracted Extracted from oil. HUILE Cotton-seed oil. purified and seed. urand rendered rendered cola colourcan be Now that that this this oil oil can be purified seed. Now an ingredient ingredient ofvegetable of vegetable Jess, in cookery, chiefly as as an less, itit is is used cookery, chiefly used in cooking fats or oleomargarine. cooking fats or oleomargarine. (peanut oil). HUILE A clear, clear, GrOlmdnut nurle D'ARACHIDES D'ARAcHIDES - - A oil (peanut Groundnut oU non-siccative and tasteless and non-siccative ail oil extracted extracted from.peanuts. ItIt isis tasteless people who prefer an an odourless, who prefer table oil by by people and used used as as aa table odourless, and oil taste. without taste. oil entirely entirely without par excellence, Olive excellence,since since D'oLIvE -- The The oil oil par HUILE D'OLIVE Olive oïl. oil. HUILE 'oil'is There etymologically is derived 'olive', There from'olive'. derived from the ward word 'oil' etymologically the are grades of of olive olive oil. oil. are different different grades Pure is extracted finest fresh fresh olives, olives, which which from the thefinest Pureail oilis extracted cold cold from are ply crushed. has aa distinctive distinctive fiavour, flavour, isis This oil oil has are sim crushed. This simply greenish long time. fresh for greenish in for aa long time. and keeps keeps fresh in colour colour and pressure under Second heat.ItIt isis grade ail under heat. oil isis extracted extracted by by pressure Second grade quickly when white rancid more more quickly when in colour becomes rancid and becomes white in colour and air. to the the air. exposed to (lubricating ail) from windfalls windfalls extractedfrom Third grade ail oil (lubricating oil) isisextracted or preserved olives. treated with with olives.ItIt isis often often treated fermented or or preserved or fermented sulphate and rendered rendered neutralised and and then then neutralised of carbon, carbon, and sulphate of odourless. industrial use, use, but butisis for industrial intended only only for This oil oil isisintended odourless.This ail for adulteration, adulteration. all too too often used for often used Connoisseurs distinguish between the various 'vintages' of olive oil, and hold the oil of Provence in particularly high esteem. esteem. pALME - - This Palm normal DEPALME This oil solid atat nonnal HUILEDE oil isissolid Palm oiJ. oil. HUILE

POULTRY OFFAL also MEATS -- See See also VARIETY MEATS or VARIETY OFFAL or GIBLETS. prepared Chic ken livers. These are are prepared DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- These FoIEs DE livers. FOIES Chicken skewered, various garnrisotto, sautéed with various in aa pilaf or saut6ed with or risotto, skewered, in ishes, etc. They are also used as garnishes themselves, and as as garnishes particularly of an of Ài various forcemeats, forcemeats, particularly ingredient of an ingredient of various gratinforcemeat (see FORCEMEATS gratin forcemeat (see STUFFINGS). FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS). Chicken DE BRocHETTES DE I'indienne. BROCHETTES on skewers skewers àI l'indienne. livers on Chicken livers pouLET À FOIES into livers into the trimmed trimmed Iivers Cut the A L'INDIENNE L'INDITNNS -- Cut ForEs DE POULET 33 or 4 pieces. Season fry in in sizzling and fry sizzling and pepper and salt and Season with salt butter. in rows, alternating rows, alterrlatmg metal skewers skewers in them on on metal butter. Thread them with blanched bacon cut in and sUces in thick slices of thick square square pieces and mushrooms, both in butter. lightly tossed tossed in butter. both Iightly Dip the threaded and left in in the in the butter the pan, and butter left threaded skewers skewers in roll fire. grated breadcrumbs. Grill on on aa brisk fire. breadcrumbs. Grill roll in in freshly freshly grated Serve (see RICE) sauce Curry sauce RICE) and and aa Curry l'indienne (see Rice àd l'indienne with Rice Serve with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Duck livers. FOIES prepared in in the the These are are prepared DE CANETON cANEToN -- These FoIEs DE same pilaf, poultry: on in aa pilaf, on skewers, skewers, in other poultry: as those those of of other same way as as garnishes. They They are are also also various garnishes. with various risotto, sautéed saut6ed with as aa risotto, used gratin for ÀA gratin in forcemeats, forcemeats, especially for an ingredient ingredient in used as as an forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS). FORCEMEATS or forcemeat (see pArss OFFICINALES OFFICINAL Substances oFFIcINALES -- Substances OFFICINAL PASTILLES. PASTILLES. PÂTES of (small aromatic confections, usually usually aromatic confections, firm consistency consistency (small of aa firm hard jujubes), which jelly jujubes), the fingers fingers gums or do not not stick to the which do stick ta hard gums or jelly and gum and in water, dissolved in water, and sugar composed of of gum sugar dissolved and are are composed with They are are medicaments. They or medicaments. flavourings or with aromatic aromatic flavourings transparent if to the the moulded and and brought brought to have been if they they have been moulded right evaporation and process of and dried dried ofevaporation right consistency consistency by by aa slow slow process in have been evaporated been evaporated drying oyen, and opaque opaque ifif they have in aa drying oven, and with aa wooden wooden spoon. and stirred with in a very high high temperature and light coating of with aa light 'sugared pastilles' are are covered covered with crJ"statll!~;ed quality. keeping quality. increases their their keeping which increases crystallised sugar, sugar, which

OGNONNADE containing aa Stew containing or OIGNONADE OIGNONADE -- Stew OGNONNADE or large to finely finely proportion of also applies applies to The term term also large proportion of onions. onions. The chopped in white white wine. wine. in butter cooked in butter or or cooked melted in chopped onion, onion, melted OIL. temperatures. normal ') (| pint, teaspoons) salt, pint, li salt, 33 dl. dl. (, 1{ cups) water water and (l oz., and 30 3-0 g. (1 oz., 2- tablespoons) butter, butter, prepare semi-puff pastry, pastry, allowing ums. Roll out 5j tturns. out two-thirds of pasiry into of the the pastry into 31-cm.3t-cm.l sq uare (12-jnch-square) (12-inch-square) sheets. square sheets. Line Line the the middle middle of of this this rolled-out piece of pastry with thin bacon bacon rashers rashers leaving leaving aa border border of of pastry of (5 inches). Spread of about 13 l3 cm. (5 Spread half half of the of the first forcemeat on the the bacon rashers in in an an even even layer. layer. 'Spread the pheasant pheasant on the table skin downwards, caver skin downwards, cover with half the the woodcock the goose liver woodcock forcemeat, put the liver on on with the the rest (est of the the forcemeat. Bring Bring the the top and and cover cover with flesh together, so to edges of the pheasant's skin skin and and flesh so as is to ta form form aa kirrd kind of of slightly flattened flattened enclose the liver and and to galantine. galantine. Place Place this this on on the layer of forcemeat spread spread on on Caver completely with with the the other other half ha If of of ihe the forceforcethe pastry. Cover meat and on top of of that lay a few thin thin rashers rashers of of bacon. bacon. meat 'Sprinkle with aa pinch pinch of spiced salt, salt, add add aa small small pinch pinch of of 'Sprinkle leaf and aa little liule powdered powdered dry thyme. thyme. crushed bay leaf out the the rest rest of of the the pastry pastry into into aa sheet sheet aa little little thinner thinner 'Roll out than the the first piece. Pinch Pinch up the the edges of of the the first firs! piece of of than pastry pastry all ail round the the filling. filling. Cover with the the second second piece of of pastry pastry and and seal seal up up the the edges. edges. Trim Trîm away away surplus surplus pastry, pastry, crimp the the edges edges and decorate decorate the the sides sides with with fancy fancy pastry pastry crimp shapes, crescents, crescents, circles, circles, lozenges, which which are are made made to ta adhere adhere shapes, by moistening moistening the the pastry pastry slightly. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with by pastry pastry leaves. Jeaves. 'Put 'Put 33 scallop-edged scallop-edged pieces pieces of of pastry, pastry, each eath of of aa different different size, one one on on top top of of the the other other in in the the middle middle of of the the pie, and and size, make aa hole hole in in the the centre centre to to allow allow steam steam to ta escape escape during make cooking. cooking. 'Brush the thepie piewith with beaten beaten egg. egg. Surround Surround itit with with aa piece piece of of 'Brush buttered greaseproof greaseproofpaper fastened fastened with with string, string, all al! round; round; buttered this can can be be removed removed after the the pie pie has l'las been been in in ihe the oven oven for for this ofan an hour. hour. three-quarters of 'Put 'Put into aa hot hot oven, oyen, keeping keeping aa regular regular heat. heat. Allow Allow from from 30to to 32 32 minutes minutes per per kg. kg. (15 (15 to ta 16 16 minutes minutes per perpound). pound). 30 'When 'Whcncooked cooked and and the thepastry pastryisisno nomore morethan thanwarm, warm,pour pour dl.(+ pint, pint,J,cup) gameliquid liquidaspic aspicjelly through theiole the hole l+11dl. jelly through cup) game thetop. top. inin the 'This 'Thispie pieshould shouldbe beprepared prepared atatleast least24 24hours hoursininadvance.' advance.' (Phil6as (PhiléasGilbert.) Gilbert.)

(l

-

(3,

*

ORANGE MILK MILK AGARIC. AGARIC. ORONGE oRoNcE -- Common Common name for for aa ORANGE mushroom of of the the amanlla genus (see amanita genus (see MUSHROOMS). mushroom ORANGINE - Genoese Genoese pastry, flavoured flavoured with with candied candied ORANGINE peel, eut orange peel, cut transversely into into three three Jayers, layers, sandwiched sandwiched orange with French (see CREAM) CREAM) and and iced iced with with French pastry cream (see Fondant icing rcizg (see ICING). Fondant (q.v.), flavoured with candied Cut at Genoese Genoese cake (q.v.), candied orange orange Cut peel and and baked baked in a flan ring with with high high sides, into into three layers. peel Cover eacn each with with an orange-flavoured French pastry cre(nn Caver an orange-flavoured paslry cream (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Reshape cake. Ice Ice wilh with orangeorange(see Reshape the the cake. flavoured (see ICING). fiavoured Fondant Fondnnl icing icing (see lCING). Decorate with with candied

5,

-

orange peel. This gdteau can can also also be made by putting putting Genoese cakes,

each cach baked in in a a flan flan ring ring in in layer layer cake cake tins tins of different different dimensions, dimensions, one one on on top top of of another, another, sandwiching sandwiching with orange-flavoured ench pas try cream. orange-flavoured Fr French pastry cream.

OREILLER OREILLER DE DE LA LA BELLE BELLE AURORE AURORE (The (The pilow Pillow of

Belle Belle Aurore) -- In In his his book, book, la la Table au pays de de BrillatBrilla/Savarin, Lucien Tendret Tendret gives gjves a a recipe recipe for for this grandiose grandiose game pie, which, which, he he says, says, was was one one of of Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's favourite dishes. dishes.

'At midday',, wrote wrote Tendret, Tendret, 'we 'we would would sit sic at al table, table, drink C6te-Gr0le wine, from Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's vineyard, vineyard, wine, from

and and eat eat the the traditional tradilional pie, pie, square square shaped shaped and and for for that chat reason reason called called l'Oreiller l'Oreiller de de la la Belle Belle Aurore Aurore after after Brillat-savarin's Brillat-SavarÎn's mother, mother, Claudine-Aurore Claudine-Aurore R6camier.' Récamier.' Lucien Lucien Tendret's Tendret's recipe for for this this pie pie was was modified modifjed by by Phil€as Philéas Gilbert, Gilbert, and and itit is from this Ihis version versÎon that that we we quotl quote

below: below: 'In aa pie _ 'In

in which which game game is is the the principal

element the

flav_our of game meat meat must must be he the the predominating ffavour. 'Ch_oose a plump, tender tender pheasant, pheasanl. bone bone it, it, having first

cut off the drumsticks; ; season season with with aa good good pinch pinch of ofSpiced sall sali (see (see SALT) SALT) and and put put into into an an earthenware earthenwarecasserole casserole with with

55tablespoons tablespoons (6 (6 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine Champagne Champagne brandy brandy and and the thesame sameamount amount of ofMadeira Madeira. 'Remove 'Removeall ail sinews sinews from from aa big bigfat fat goose goose liver, liver, and and stud stud itit generously with with quarters quarters of of fresh, fresh, peeled peeled trufles. tfUtRes. Season Season with with spiced salt salt and and put put itit with with the the pheasant. pheasant. Leave Leave toto marinate marinate for for one one hour, hour, turning tuming both bolh the the pheasant pheasant and and the the liver fromtime timetototime. time. liverfrom

llolhh, before before serving. serving. Chill thoroughly Stufred partridges nmrtri.tm~~ in aspic (tinned or canned). rERDREAUx PERDREAUX FARcIs FARCIS iÀ u, LA cerEn - Partly bone the partridges. Stuff them with a big piece of of raw fat goose liver, liver, encrusted encrusted with one or two medium-sized truffies which which have been peeled, seasoned seasoned with spiced salt and sprinkled sprinkled with brandy, brandy, and and enclosed in a salt and layer of truffied Fine Fine pork porkforcemeat FORCEMEATS). forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). Truss the partridges as as for an an entrde, entrée, wrap each each in a thin rasher ofbacon fat or a piece ofpig's of of pig's caul. Put them into a saut6 sauté pan on a foundation ofchopped of chopped bacon rinds, carrots carrots and onions and the giblets of of the birds, all ail lightly lightly tossed in butter. wine. butter. Moisten with with Madeira or any other liqueur wine. Cook gently, with the lid on, for l0 10 minutes. Moisten with good strongjelly prepared bacon prepared from calves'feet calves' feet and fresh bacon rinds (but Cook in the oven oven for for 30 30 to 35 minutes. minutes. (but no gelatine). gelatine). Cook Drain the partridges, remove remove barding barding and trussing string, and dry the birds on a cloth. Put each into a tin-plated can, breast breast downwards, and leave leave to cool. When Wh en quite cold, cover them them with with the the jelly jelly in which they were cooked, clarified c1arified in the usual manner (see ASPIC, ASPIC, Clarffication of of aspic aspic jelly). jelly). Leave Leave until quite cold. Solder Solder the tins (cans). Boil Boil them them in water for 45 45 minutes, making ma king sure that during this operation operation boiling does single moment. does not cease for a single Take the tins water, put Take tins out of of the water, put them them on on the table table in such are breast breast downwards. Cool. Mark a way that the partridges are the tin on the top to make sure it is breast breast side up when when you open it. aspic

Terrine of partridge. TERRTNE DE eERDREAU - Prepared like Potted pheasant (see PHEASANT). partridge. TIMBALE Timbale of n~lrtr'Îtlo'" Prepared like TIMBALE DE IERDREAU PERDREAU -- Prepared Timbale of woodcock (see WOODCOCK). WOODCOCK). (roast). IERDREAU Truffied partridge (roast). rnurre (n0n) PERDREAU TRUFFÉ (RÔTI) -- Partly bone a plump partridge, partridge, opening opening it on the back, back, near near the neck (the bird having been cleaned from the front). Through this pork fat studded with I cup) pork opening stuff it with 100 I 00 g. (4 oz., 1 pieces of truffie, and quarters. Truss Truss and75 75 g. (3 oz.) truffies cut in quarters. partridge and wrap it in a thin slice of the partridge of bacon Roast in bacon fat. Roast slow oyen METHODS, Average cooking CULINARY METHODS, oven (see CULINARY a slow

wooDcocK).

pnnpRrau À Partridge V AROF -- Stuff Partridge ài la Souvarof. PERDREAU rl SOU A LA souvnnor gras and the partridge foie gras truffies cut in in large large dice, the partridge with foie and truffies pepper and sprinkled seasoned with salt and pepper sprinkled with aa dash of brandy. Truss as as for an an entrée. entrde. Brown quickly in butter, to stiffen it. it. Put Put into into an stiffen an oval-shaped oval-shaped earthenware cocotte. Surround with 3 truffies cut in large pieces, or whole truffles, truffies, peeled and seasoned. seasoned. Moisten with with 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant I cup) Madeiraflavoured gamefumet (q.v.), to which the pan juices, diluted with with Madeira, have been added. Sprinkle with a dash of brandy. Coyer Cover the cocotte with its lid and seal with with fiour-and-water fiour-and-water partridge in a hot oyen paste. Cook the partridge oven for 40 minutes. Serve in the cocotte. inthe Stuffed FARcIs À l LA re GELÉEcrrfn Stufred partridge in aspic. PERDREAUX IERDREAUx FARCIS Slit the partridges along the back, bone, and bone, open them out and season with diced season diced spiced salt. salt. Stuff each each with truffied Game Game (see FORCEMEATS), placing fnr'f'PI'l1P,'lt (see placing in in the the middle middle aa forcemeat piece of g'ras, encrusted with of foie with 1I peeled truffie, truffie, seasoned seasoned foie gras, with spiced salt and sprinkled with brandy. in aa Reshape the the partridges. Truss them, them, wrap wrap each each one one in thin slice of bacon fat fat or aa piece of pig's cau!. caul. Cook in aa little (see JELL Madeira-flavoured Y, Game jelly stock) Madeira-flavoured aspic jelly (see JELLY, stock\ made made from from the veal knuckle the scraps trimmed trimmed off the birds, aa veal and fresh bacon rinds. When When the f."", are the partridges are cooked, cooked, drain drain them, them, unwrap, untruss untruss and and dry on cloth. Put into terrine on aa clotho into an an oval-shaped oval-sha d terrine

times for roasls). roasts). timesfor Serve either with the diluted pan juices or with Pdrigueux SAUCE) to which the diluted pan juices have been sauce (see SAUCE) added. truffling of game or poultry should be done at atleast24 The truffling least 24 in advance. advance. This will render the the flesh flesh more more flavourhours in some. When When the cooked on spit, coyer cover it the bird bird isis being cooked on aa spit, sorne. completely with with aa piece of buttered greaseproof paper; of buttered completely remove minutes before taking taking the bird off offthe rem ove a few minutes the spit, so as to brown it. partridge,like Truffied partridge, all other trufHed truffied winged game, can Truffied like ail cooked in a casserole casserole or a cocotte. also be cooked pERDRE,c,u À la vigneronne. PERDREAU A LA r,l VIGNERONNE vIcNERoNNE -Partridge ài la partridge as Truss the partridge an entrée butter in a as for an entrde and cook it in butter casserole or a cocotte. casserole 24 cocotte . Untruss it, and put into the casserole casserole grapes. Add seeded grapes. Add 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant ~* cup) peeled and seeded "up) game fumet (q.v.) and and 1I tablespoon flaming brandy. Simmer gamefumet it minutes. Serve in the casserole in which it with aa lid on for 5 minutes. cooked. was cooked.

(Russian cookery) -- This PASKHA (Russian This dish dish used used to to be be an PASKHA essential part of the Easter table in Russia. (S lb.) Press out from 22 kg. kg. (4~ lb.) cream out any any excess moisture from Press (U.S. cottage) cheese, blend (2i lb.) sour cream, blend with with 1I kg. (2;j; g. (9 (9 oz., 125 g. butter, I teaspoon teaspoon salt, salt, 125 250 g. oz., generous cup) butter, (3 tabletablespoons (3 (4 oz., ti cup) vanilla flavoured sugar, 2 tablespoons (2 oz., g. (2 grated lemon rind, oz.,it cup) cup) chopped chopped rind, 50 g. spoons) finely grated

L"UF,'v",

669 669

PASSARELLE PASSARELLE almonds and 5 tablespoons (6 tablespoons) seedless raisins. raisins. When Wh en the the mixture is very smooth, place in a a muslin-lined muslin-lined receptacle receptacle (traditionally (traditionally pyramid pyramid shaped) shaped) which which will allow the top and and leave in a cool the mixture mixture to drain. Put a weight on top place. place. Turn out on on a dessert dish dish and and decorate with sultanas, sultanas, chopped chopped pistachio pistachio nuts nuts or or crystallised fruit.

General General rules rules for for making pastilles. 1. 1. Choose very white, Choose very well weil grained and odourless odourless sugar. Pound it into powder, sift through a a horsehair horsehair sieve, the finest part by sieve, and and remove the finest part means of a silk sieve. This powder, being too fine, fine, has the drawback drawback of making the the pastilles too too heavy heavy and compact, and and less shiny. shiny. 2. Dilute Dilute the sugar sugar with aromatic quantity of aromatic essence and a quantity water. water. Use Use a a small small silver pan, if if possible, possible, as will not silver pan, as it will communicate communicate any unpleasant unpleasant taste to the mixture. mixture. 3. Watch the sugar sugar carefully carefully while it is on the heat, stirring from from time to time when when the mixture mixture begins to simmer. simmer. 4. Make Make sure sure that that the mixture mixture is not too liquid for pouring. pouring. Should that that be be the case. case, take take the mixture mixture off the heat and stir offthe with with a wooden wooden spoon spoon until it acquires acquires the desired consistency. consistency. 5. 5. Make sure that the flavourings flavourings used, which which are juices pressed pressed out out from from various kinds of offruit, are fresh. fruit, are Coffee PASTILLES nu AU c,lFf CAFÉ - Prepare l* It kg. (3 lb.) CofJee pastilles. pastilles. pAsrrLLEs finest quality sugar sugar as described described above. above. Bring Bring 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,l oz., t cup) ground ground coffee corree to the boil several sever al times in jt litre (scant (scant pint, 2f 2t cups) cups) water. Pour Pour through through a straining straining bag in which a piece piece of of gelatine gelatine has has been been put, to make make the grounds grounds settle. seule. use for for diluting the When the liquid is cold, strain and When and use sugar, sugar, then then proceed proceed to pour pour the pastilles. pastilles. Jasmine pastilles. pastilles. pASrrLLBs PASTILLES AU AU JAsMTN JASMIN - Pound and sift 1| li Jasmine kg. kg. (a (4Ib.) sugar, put put it into aa china bowl bowl and and dilute dilute with 50 g. lb.) sugar, (2 oz.) oz.) jasmine jasmine essence, adding water until it forms a paste. Roll, and and make make into into pastilles. pastilles. jonquil and tuberose pastilles are made in a Mignonette, jonquil Mignonette, similar manner, manner, using using the same sa me quantity of the essence of these flowers flowers per per pound pound ofsugar. of sugar. these PASTILLES A À rl LA rlrun FLEUR D'oRANcER D'ORANGER Orange-blossom pastilles. pastilles. pAsrrLLES Orange-blossom li kg. kg. (4 lb.) white white superfine sugar in a a marble -- Pound l* mortar. Sift Sift itit through through a horsehair horsehair or or silk sieve sieve to extract extract the mortar. finest part, part, which can be be kept kept for other other uses. uses. finest Put the the rest of of the the sugar sugar into into a china china bowl bowl and add double double Put orange-blossom water, water, stirring stirring with a wooden spoon. spoon. Pour Pour a orange-blossom on at at aa time time and and stir stir continuously continuously until the the paste paste is liule water water on little quite quite firm. If If too too much much water water has been been added, added, and and the the paste

PASSARELLE PASSARELLE -- Dried Dried Muscatel grapes, grapes, prepared in the

Frontignan Frontignan region as well weil as as in Smyrna Smyrna and and Damascus. Damascus. The process process of of turning turning these these grapes into raisins is called passerillage sarillage. passerillage or or pas passarillage.

Passe-Crassane Passe-Crassane pear pearss (Wide (Witte W World) or Id)

PASSE"CRASSANE PASSE-CRASSANE -- Variety Variety of of very very fragrant fragrant winter win ter pear. pear. PASSE POMME -- Name PASSE-POMME Name given given to to three three varieties varieties of of apple which which ripen ripen in in August: August: white, white, red red and and Jerusalem. Jerusalem.

PASSE"TOUT-GRAIN PASSE-TOUT-GRAIN or or PASSE-TOUS-GRAINS PASSE-TOUS-GRAINS Name Name of of aa red red Burgundy Burgundy wine wine made made partly partly from from black black Pinot Pinot grapes grapes and and partly parti y from from Gamay Gamay grapes grapes (the proportion proportion of Pinot Pinot being being at at least least one one third). third).

PASSION PASSION FRUIT. FRUIT. BARBADTNE BARBADINE -- Edible Edible fruit fruit of of the the passionpassionflower or giant giant granadilla, granadilla, used used as as aa dessert. dessert. flower tree tree or

PASTA PASTA

See ITALIAN ITALIAN PASTA, PASTA, MACARONI, MACARONI, See

NOODLES, NOODLES, RAVIOLI, RAVIOLI, SPAGHETTI. SPAGHETTI. PASTA PASTA FROLLA FROLLA -- Italian Italian name name for for aa very very delicate delicate sweet sweet pastry pastry similar similar to to Savarin Savarin pastry pastry (see (see DOUGH, DOUGH, Savarin Savarin dough\. dough).

PASTEURISATION PASTEURISATION -- Process Process of of heating heating aa liquid liquid up up to to aa temperature temperature between between 70' 70° and and 80'C. 80°e. (158" (158° and and 176"F.), 176°F.), then then cooling cooling quickly. quickly. Pasteurisation Pasteurisation arrests arrests development development of of cercertain and increases increases the the duration duration for for which which the the product product tain bacteria bacteria and can can be be kept, kept, without without assuring assuring complete complete sterilisation. sterilisation. UnforUnfortunately, tunately, pasteurisation pasteurisation often often removes removes valuable valu able nutrients. nutrients.

PASTILLAGE PASTILLAGE -- Paste Paste which which was was much much in in demand demand in in the the past decorating big big pastry pastry and and confectionery confectionery creations, creations, as as past for for decorating well and ornaments ornaments used used for for dressing dressing big big cakes. cakes. This This well as as pillars pillars and

paste made from from icing icing sugar, sugar, powdered powdered starch, starch, gum gum paste was was made tragacanth and and water. water. Pastillage Pas tillage isis not not much much used used nowadays. nowadays. tragacanth

PASTILLE PASTILLE -- Small Small round round confection confection made made from from dissolved dissolved sugar and and water, water, poured poured hot, hot, drop drop by by drop, drop, onto onto aa cold co Id sugar marble slab. slab. The The sugar sugar is is usually usually flavoured flavoured with with various various marble aromatic flavourings. flavourings. Pastilles Pastilles are are manufactured manufactured almost almost aromatic

(Maison Moral) PPastillage astillage (M ai s o n M o r at)

entirely in in factories. factories. entirelv 670 670

PASTRIES, PASTRIES, BASES BASES FOR FOR dough or or short short pastry. pastry. Recipes Recipes for for both bath these these will be be found found in

liltle powdered powdered sugar sugar itil with aa little (some (sorne of which which should be he kept kept in in reserve reserve for for such such an

has has become become too tao liquid, liquid, thicken

the the section section entitled entitled DOUGH. DOUGH. Lard Lard pastry pastry dough. dougb. pArs PÂTE au AU sArNDoux SAINDOUXkg. - Ingredients. I1 kg. (2+ (2t lb.) lb.) sifted sifted flour, 250 250 g. g. (9 oz., OZ., generous generous cup) cup) warm, melted melted lard,2 lard, 2 whole whole eggs, eggs, 44 dl. (f (t pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) warm water and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon salt. salt. Method. Prepare in the same manner manner as ordinary pastry dough (see (see above). above). Use Use for for big big cold pies. pies. Pufr Puff pastry pastry shells. shells. cRoOrEs CROÛTES on DE soucnErs BOUCHÉES rsu[rrr6rs FEUILLETÉES Prepare Prepare with with puffpastry puff pastry rolled rolJed out OUl six six times, limes, and and leave leave to ta rest.

emergency) . emergency).

To Ta test tes! whether whelber the the composition composition has has reached reached the desired desired

if

degree, take aa little litt]e of ofit on a wooden wooden spoon, spoon. hold hold itil up, up, and if degree, take it on

just right. becomes detached detClched it isisjust right. it becomes Put 100 g. (4 oz.) oz.) of of this this paste paste into into a small pan pan with a long long spout. spou\. Heat Heut on the the stove stove until itit becomes hecomes liquid, liquid, stirring stirring with with the the wooden spoon. spoon . Remove Remove from the the heat when when the paste pas te is just abolit to boil. Stirring Stirring it a few rew more times, times. begin begin to pour just about onto tin-plated tin-plated metal sheets sheets in the following manner: manncr : onto Hold the pan with your left hand hand and, tipping the spout SPOU! very gently, pour the paste with the aid of a knitting knitting needle

Roll Roll out out 8 mm. mm . (t (t inch) thick. thick . Cut Cut out out pastry rounds about 6 cm.. (2linches) cm (2! inches) in diameter. Put Put these these onto onto a a wet weI baking sheet, turning turning them them over. over. Using a round round cutter, cUlter, 3 cm (l| o! inches) Înches) across, dipped in hot pastry,, and mark water, waler, mark mark out out the lids of of the pieces pieces of ofpastry mark the the edges edges with a knife. Cook Cook in in a hot oven. oyen. When baked baked take take out out of of the the oven oyen and remove remove the the lids. lids. Fill FiJI them Ihem with with whatever whatever preparation preparation is indicated. Raised pastry case case cooked cookerl blind. blind. cno0rE CROÛTE DE DE cRANDE GRANDE Raised pastry charlotte TIMBALE cure CUITE A À BLANc BLANC ,- Butter the interior interior of a a charlotte (see mould decorate the sides with pieces of noodle paste mould and decorate pieces ofnoodle paSle (sec NOODLES). Roll sorne some short pastry cm.. (8 pastry into into a round round about 20 20 cm (8 inches) in diameter. Sprinkle Sprinkle lightly !ightly with with flour Aour and fold in half. Draw this half-circle Draw the points of ofthis half-circle together together in such a way as (f inch) thick. to form a dome. dome. Roll RoH it out once 8 mm. (1 thick . Press into noodle paste inlo the Ihe mould, mould, without without disturbing the the noodle pasle decorations. Line with a fine buttered paper paper and fill 611 it up with dried raw beans. Put PUI aa dome-shaped dome-shaped piece of paper on top of the dry joining the filling, and sheet of pastry on top of this, joining and aa thin sheet fingers. Make the with the fingers. edges together by gently pressing wilh rim of pinching this borderwilh of the pie by pinching border.with pastry both pastry pincers pincees bath part forming the lid, inside out. Moisten with water the part and OUI. inside and it. ofpastry on il. and put leaves and roses cut from a thin sheet ofpastry pastry.. Stick Put circles of on top of small circles of the lid of pastry lid 33 or 44 small Put on these together for' opening in the middle to allow for' together and make an opening the escape of steam during during cooking. Brush the olltsideof outside'of the of stcam pie wilh to with egg and cook in the aven oven al at moderate moderate heat for 30 ta 35 minutes. minutes . Remove the is cooked off the the lid lid.. Remove the pastry is cooked,) take off When the paper and provisional provisional filling; brush the interior with egg and and preparation is dry off in in aa warm place. Fill Fill itit wilh with whatever preparation dry indicated. cooked blind in this way, are used used or timbales, timbales, cooked Raised pies, pies, or for aa number filled aCter number of They can can be be filled after of mixed mixed entrées. entrdes. They for in cooking with various ragoûts arranged in ragofrts or with macaroni arranged cooking layers alternating various incomposed of of various alternating with with aa ragoût ragofrt composed layers gredients combined with a white or brown sauce. gredients Pastry sticks STRAWS.. sticks-- See ALLUMETTES, STRAWS

fixed fixed in a small small piece of ofwood, held in your your right right hand. Move Move wood, held such a way as as to ta make the the saucepan and the needle in such paste drop on the metal sheet in the shape of little liule buttons buttons (which are are called called pastilles). pastilles). There There are special droppers droppers for shaping shaping boiled sugar sugar drops. drops . Take care to to space the pastilles properly pro perl y when when pouring pouring Take pour the same same quantity of of paste pasle for all ail of of them. them. them, and to pour sheets, put Leave Leave for I1 hour, hOllf, take the pastilles pastilles off the metal sheets, them on a paper-covered paper-covered sieve, and leave leave in a warm place for them a day day.. Longer than that would diminish the aroma. (a lb.) Rose pastilles. l? kg. (4 pastilles. pAsrrLLEs PASTILLES À LA RosE R.OSE -'Pound - 'Pound Il lb .) e re best sugar in a marble mortar, mortar, sift through through a horse-hair sieve into a bowl, dilute with attar altar of roses roses until until it forms a a fairly paSle, and drop drop from the pan with wilh the aid of knitling thick paste, of a knitting (.Le Confiseur needle as described above.' (Le 8 2 1 .) C onfiseur moderne, 1J82J.) (B6arn cake) -- ''Mix PASTlS (Béarn Mix 12 12 eggs wilh 1I tablespoon tublespoon PASTIS eggs with orange blossom water, I1 small glass of orange blossom of brandy, 400 g. (14 oz., (a oz., Itcups) I~cups) fine finesugar. 1cup) melted melted little milk and 100 g. (4 oz.,lcup) sugar, a little butter and whisk vigorously. butter 'Add aa tittle 'Add Aour until until the little baker's yeast and stir, stir, adding flour paste is sufficiently thick. paste loaf in the bowl, sprinkle 'Blend the dough weil, well, roll into a loafin with next with a c10th cloth and lave, near the fire, until next with flour, cover with day day.. in aa hOI hot oven.' 'Put the dough inlo into a buttered tin and bake in (Simin Palay: La Cuisine en Béarn.) Bdarn.\ is an called by by this an Armagnac pastry delicacy delicacy also called There is name name..

enjoyed in in name for for an an aniseed aniseed apêrilif ap6ritif enjoyed PASTIS -- Popular name the south of Fra nce. There are severa! several varieties. varieties. ofFrance. (called 'la verre'). has taken the place of absinth (called verte'), the the Pastis has prohibited. There There is is an popular pre-1914 drink, now now prohibited. an Order called Anysetiers Anysetiers du Roy.

pArn-- See also DOUGH DOUGH.. PASTRY. PÂTE pies. l'ÂTF. Pastry dougb rArn ORDINAIRE oRDINAIRE -Pasrry dough for for hot hot or or cold cold pies. Ingredients. 1I kg. (2i oz., generous Ingredients. sifted Aour, flour, 250 250 g. (9 oz., Qla lb.) sifted (t cup) buuer, tablespoon salt, salt, about about 44 dl. cup) butter, 22 whole eggs, eggs, 1I tablespoon dl. (~ pint,, scant quantity of water water may may vary vary pint scant 22 cups) water. The The quantity cups) water_ quality quality offlour depending on The better the quality depending used. The of flour used. on the quality of flour, the more water it can can absorb absorb.. put and PUI Method. Spread in aa circ1e circle 00 on the board and Melhod. Spread the the flour in salt,, water, water, eggs in the middle. Mix in the usual the salt eggs and and butter in paste 1O manner and make ilit smoolh smooth and and manner and knead knead the the paste to make keep in in aa homogeneous. _Roll homogeneous Roll into aa baH, ball, wrap in in aa cloth cloth and and keep cool cool place uOlil until required for use. pastry, like prepared at pastry, should least 12 12 Pie pastry, at least Pie like ail all pastry, should be be prepared (and the pastry (and before itit is A well-rested well-rested paslry hours berore is to to be be used. used. A pastry made 24 hours) rest up made according tp ta to 24 pastry according to this this recipe recipe can can rest less colour during baking. baking. easier to work isis easier work and and takes takes on on less colour during pArr.A, Common briocbe Some Common À BRIOCHE dough. PÂTE BRrocI{E COMMUNE coMMUNE -- Sorne brioche dough. pies, especially small pies, or small those made made in in the the shape shape of of aval oval or especially those patties or by hand, hand, without without rectangular patties or turnovers, are are shaped shaped by mould, and common brioche aa mould, mon brioche and are are made made of of unsweetened unsweetened corn

pArtssrinn -- Custard PASTRY CREAM, FRENCH. CRÈME cntrr,m PÂTISSIÈRE PASTRY made of eggs, is used eggs, sugar, sugar, Aour, flour, milk and flavouring, which is pastry-making as in pastry-making for various cakes, cakes, such such as as choux. choux, as filling for in (See CREAMS.) This preparation preparation is is dclairs, batons de de Jacob Jacob.. (See éclairs, also known as confectioner's confectioner's custard. also prNcg PASTRY CRIMPER CRIMPER or or PINCER. PINCE PASTRY the edges of ofpies, etc. pinching Ihe pies, tarts, etc.

Tool used for used for - Tooi

-

pArB -- Instrument Instrument used used to to cut cut CUTTER. COUPE coupE PÂTE PASTRY CUITER. pastry into They are are either either sheets of paslry round or or oval oval shapes. shapes. They into round sheets in various sizes. sizes. can be fluted, and be bought in or Auted, and can plain or

pastry (001 PASTRY WHEEL. tool of of Small pastry WHEEL. GAUFREUSE cAUFREUSE -- Small PASTRY place of metal to crimp crimp the the in place metal pastry pincers to hardwood, used in edges of oftarts and pastries. edges larts and pArrssERrE - Many PASTRIES. BASES FOR. l'ONDS roNos DE oB PÂTISSERIE BASES FOR. PASTRIES, - Manv 671 671

pArB PÂTÉ Fonds r6serve réserve -- Pound 100 g. g. (4 oz., oz., 1I cup) fresh blanched blanched almonds and add with 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) sugar to 2 egg whites. Whip 200 g. g. (7 oz., scant cup) sugar and 12 egg and 12 egg yolks over over hot water. Add Add the first mixture mixture to this along with 100 00 g. (4 oz., 100 g. (4 oz., I1 cup) cup) flour, I100 scant cup) cornflour oz.,scant cornflour or arrowroot and l0 whites, stiffiy 10 egg whites, stiffly beaten. Pour thinly onto greased, greased, floured baking baking trays and bake bake in a slow oyen. oven. Fonds sabl6s g. (4t (41 oz., sablés -- 250 g. (9 oz.,2f oz., 2-!- cups) flour, 125 g. oz, generous ($ oz., generous generous! g. (4! generous!f cup) butter, butter, * cup) sugar, 125 g. 175 g. (6 oz.,ltcups) oz., I! cups) ground ground almonds, 2 eggs, vanilla. Knead Knead the the butter butter and and flour, flour, then then blend blend ail all ingredients together without further kneading. Set aside in a cool place. Cut Cut into shapes shapes and and bake bake in a moderate oyen. oven. This This is excellent excellent for lining lining moulds mou Ids for iced sweets. Fonds succis succès -- Pound Pound 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., scant 2 cups) cups) dried, blanched almonds with 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) sugar. Blend Blend with 12 egg egg whites, stiffly stiffiy beaten. Bake Bake in a slow oven oyen greased, floured floured trays. on greased, Pite Pâte -- Pdte Pâte is a general term used used for pastry doughs, doughs, bread doughs, sweet pastes and batters. For recipes, see DOUGH OOUGH and and PASTRY. PASTRY.

Pastry Pastry crimper crimper

Set Set offluted offluted

pastfy pastry cutters cutters (Dehillerin. (Dehillerin. Phot. Phol. Larousse) Larousse)

PATf PÂTÉ -- This This word word is is used used in three three ways ways in French: pdtd, pâté, pdti pâté

pâté en crofrte.In croûte. In France the word word pAti pâté on its en terrine and and pAtd its own should, should, strictly speaking, only be be applied applied to to a a dish own of aa pastry pastry case filled with with meat, meat, fish, fish, vegetables vegetables or consisting of fruit, which which is baked baked in in the the oven oyen and served hot or cold. The fruit, best English English translation translation of of this this word is 'pie', although although many man y best of these these dishes dishes are much much richer richer and and more elaborate than the of sort of of pie pie usually usually eaten in England EngJand or the the U.S.A., and are sort often prepared prepared in moulds moulds rather rather than than pie dishes. A selection selection often of such such recipes recipes will will be be found found under under PIE. PIE. of Pâté en en terrine terrine isis aa meat, meat, game game or or fish fish preparation preparation put put into into a Pdtd dish (terrine) lined lined with with bacon, bacon, cooked cooked in in the the oven oyen and and always always dish(terrine) served cold. cold. The The correct correct French French abbreviation abbreviation of of this this is terrine served but in in common common usage usage the the French French also call call itpAft. itpâté. The The English but and Americans Americans have have adopted both both names names but as the strictly and correct and and less less confusing confusing term term is terrine, terrine, instructions instructions on the the correct preparation of of such dishes dishes are are given given under under TERRINE. TERRINE. preparation Pâté en en croute croute (see (see below) below) is a rich rich meat, meat, game or fish fish Pdtd mixture cooked cooked in in aa pastry pastry crust crust and and always always served served cold. mixture Amiens duck duck pfrt6. pâté. pAre PÂTÉ oe DE cANARD CANARD D'AMrENs D'AMIENS -- There are Amiens two kinds kinds of ofpdti pâté made made in in Amiens: Amiens: one one with with boned boned duck, duck, the two other with with unboned unboned duck. duck. other The duck duck pdti pâté is is made made without without aa mould; mould; itit is is shaped by by The hand. Here Here is is aa recipe recipe for aa pdti pâté of of unboned unboned duck as as itit was hand. made in in Amiens Amiens towards towards the the middle middle of of the the last last century. made The pastry. pastry. Use Use 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 4| 4i cups) cups) sifted sifted flour, 100 100 g. g. The (4 (4 oz., oz., *! cup) cup) lard, lard, I1 tablespoon tablespoon olive olive oil, oil, I1 whole whole egg, l+ I! teaspoons fine fine salt salt and and about about l{tablespoons It tablespoons (2tablespoons) (2 tablespoons) teaspoons water. water. 'Spread the the flour flour on on aa board board in in aa circle, circle, make make aa well weil in in the the 'Spread middle and and put put in in the the salt. salt. Break Break in in the the egg egg and and dissolve dissolve the the middle salt in in it. it. Add Add olive olive oil. oil. Knead Knead the the lard lard ifif itit is is hard, hard, and and mix mix it salt with the the liquid liquid part part of of the the ingredients ingredients in in the the middle middle of of the the with flour. Rub Rub the the lard lard mixture mixture and and flour flour together together without without flour. moistening. When When the the paste paste is is well weil mixed, mixed, spread spread it it on on aa moistening. marble slab sI ab and and sprinkle sprinkle with with cold cold water. water. Keep Keep itit on on the the firm firm marble Roll together together into into one one lump lump and and leave leave to to rest rest in in aa cool cool side. Roll side. place for for at at least least 22 hours hours before before using. using. place The duck.'Only duck. 'Only young young ducklings ducklings which which take take very very little litt le The cooking time time should should be be used used for for thesepdris. these pâtés. cooking 'The duck duck having having been been killed, killed, plucked, plucked, cleaned cleaned out out and and 'The singed, remove remove carefully carefully any any innards innards which which may may have have been been singed, left in. in. Cut Cut offthe off the pinions pinions aa little little below below the the first firstjoint from the the joint from left shoulder. shoulder. 'Cut off off the the feet feet at at the the joint. joint. Season Season the the duck duck with with spiced spiced 'Cut and outside. outside. Cut Cut up up aa scalded scalded breast breast of of bacon bacon salt, inside inside and salt,

French French sweets sweets (desserts), (desserts), gdteaux gâteaux and and petits petits fours fours are are based based on on one one of of the the following following mixtures. mixtures. Fonds g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar, sugar, Fonds de de Berrichons Berrichons -- 250 250 g. 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., scant scant 22 cups) cups) dried dried blanched blanched almonds, almonds, l0 10 egg egg whites, whites, stiffiy stiffly beaten. beaten.

Pound Pound the the almonds almonds and and add add with with the the sugar sugar to to the the egg egg whites. whites. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow oven oyen on on greased, greased, floured floured trays. trays. Fonds Fonds br6siliens brésiliens -- Pound Pound 250 250 grams grams (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar sugar with with 250 250 grams grams (9 (9 oz., oz., scant scant 2 2 cups) cups) unblanched unblanched almonds almonds and and blend blend with with 33 egg egg whites whites and and 50 50 g. g. (2 o2.,3 oz., 3 tablespoons) tablespoons) honey. honey. Add Add to to this this mixture mixture 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., oz., I1cup) cup) cocoa cocoa powder powder andT and 7 eggwhites, egg whites, stiffiy stiffly beaten. beaten. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow on greased, greased, floured floured trays. trays. oyen on oven Fonds Fonds napolitains napolitains -- 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) butter, butter, 250 250 g.g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 2f 2-!-cups) flour, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar, sugar, cups) flour, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous 22 cups) cups) ground ground almonds, almonds, 33 egg egg yolks. yolks. Knead Knead the the butter butter and and flour, flour, then then add add the the sugar sugar and and the the egg egg yolks. yolks. Mix Mix without without kneading kneading and and roll roll out. out. Cut Cut or or shape shape as as required required and and bake bake in in aa moderate moderate oven. oyen. Fonds or noisette noisette -- 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar sugar Fonds noix noix or 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) walnuts walnuts or or hazelnuts, hazelnuts, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.,t oz., 1CUP) butter, butter, "up) 125 125 g. g. ($ (41- oz., oz., I1cup) cup) cornflour cornflour or or arrowroot, arrowroot, 30 30 egg egg yolks, 24 24 yolks, egg egg whites, whites, stiffiy stiffly beaten. beaten. Pound Pound the the nuts nuts and and the the sugar, sugar, then then work work together together with with the the and butter. butter. Add Add the the cornflour cornflour or or arrowroot arrowroot and and the the eggyolks yolks and egg egg whites. whites. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow oven oyen on on greased greased floured floured trays. trays. egg Fonds Fonds perl6s perlés -- Fold Fold 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar sugar and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous 22 cups) cups) ground ground almonds almonds into into 12 12 egg egg whites, whites, stifry stiffly beaten. beaten. Butter Butter and and flour flour aa baking baking tray. tray. Rinse Rinse aa cake ring ring with with hot hot water. water. Place Place itit on on the the baking baking tray tray and and fill fill cake with the the mixture. mixture. Dust Oust with with icing icing sugar. sugar. Unmould Unmould the the with mixture onto onto the the tray tray and and dust dust again again with with sugar. sugar. Bake Bake in in aa mixture slow oven. oyen. slow IfIfpreferred, preferred, the the cake cake may may be be dusted dusted with with sugar sugar only only after after thecake cake ring ringhas has been been removed. removed. the Fonds progris progrès -- 125 125 g. g. (4+ (41 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) unblanched unblanched Fonds almonds, 125 125 g. g. (4 (4t oz., oz., ?i c,rp) cup) hazelnuts, hazelnuts, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., almonds, generous generous cup) cup) sugar, sugar, l0 10 egg egg whites, whites, stiffiy stiffly beaten. beaten. Toast the the almonds almonds and and hazelnuts hazelnuts in in the the oven. oyen. Pound Pound them them Toast and blend blend with withthe the sugar sugar and and egg eggwhites. whites. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow oven oyen and on greased, greased, floured floured trays. trays. on 672 672

PATE fat the surface surface fat pastry lid, off the scrape off the pastry as as follows: follows: Remove the lid, scrape hot into hot spoon dipped dipped into with aa big big spoon the pdtd layer and ladle out the lad le out pâté with filled shells shells Put the the filled fill aa shell. shell. Put pdtd to fiIJ enough pâté up enough water. Scoop up on a plate. plate. pastry placing the the pastry dish, placing crust on on aa dish, emptypdti Arrange the empty pâté crust layer of of chopped chopped with aa layer lid with lid on it upside down. Garnish the lid !id piling them jelly. Dispose the scallop gras on them it, piling on it, of foie gras scallop shells shells offoie up in a heap. found commonly found type most commonly tds, the the type Rectangular-shapedpdpâtés, Rectangular-shaped halved and and then halved which are are then in shops, in s!ices, slices, which shops, are are eut cut in in dish. slightly, on on aa long dish. arranged, overlapping slightly, arranged, pArf D'ALOUETTES Bone pfit6 en pantin. PÂTÉ EN PANTIN PANTIN -- Bone o'.trousrrEs EN Lark pâté (see I gratin forcemeat (see with A stuff with the larks larks completely and and stuff the piece of truffle. Wrap Wrap each each FORCEMEATS) studded studded with aa piece in 1I thin rasher of of bacon. lark in (see DOUGH), DOUGH), pasle (see Lining paste of Lining Roll out out aa rectangular piece of Roll of with aa layer of put on rasher, spread spread with bacon rasher, on top 1I thin thin bacon put on top of that. lay the the larks larks on and lay forcemeat (truffied, if desired) and forcemeat topped with I rasher with aa layer layer of forcemeat topped Cover the larks with Cover offat of fat bacon. pastry with piece of with aa of pastry rolled-out piece Thin down down the edges edges of of the the rolled-out Thin Put the the them. Put and seal seal them. together and bring the the edges together rolling-pin, bring holes to to or two two holes Make one pdtd upside one or on aa baking tray. Make tpside down down on pâté beaten egg egg brush with with beaten to escape escape during during baking, brusb allow steam steam ta allow in aa moderate oven. and bake in moderate oven. and in the hales holes in get cold. into itit through through the pdtd to Pour into Leave the to get cold. Pour the pâté Leave jelly (see (see ASPIC, stock) ASPIC, Gamejelly Game ielly stock) game aspic the top top sorne some game aspic jelly the butter. some melted melted butter. at once, once, sorne pdti isis not to be be eaten eaten at or,if the pâté not to or, if the pAt6 D'ALOUETTES pdtd the the For this this pâté Pithiviers lark n'lrountrns -- For lark pAt6. PÂTÉ Pithiviers to taste. taste. according to larks can left whole, whole, according can be be boned or or left larks (see with aa Iittle little ÀA gratin forcemeat Stuff each each with Stuff forcemeat (see anda mediumFORCEMEATS), one largecube cube of foie grasand one large FORCEMEATS), a mediumwith spiced salt, wrap in thin sized truffie. truffle. Season the larks larks with sized Season the them out out side by side on a piece of bacon bacon rashers rashers and and lay them larks Cover the larks pastry spread forcemeat. Cover layer of of forcemeat. pastry spread with with aa thin layer pdte. Leave to Leave ta makingthe finish making the pâté. with with the forcemeat and and finish the same same forcemeat pdtd Whenthe thepâti following day. day. When rest on the the following rest for for aa night night and and bake bake on jelly (see (see ASPIC). ASPIC). pour into isis cold, aspic jelly cold, pour into itit sorne someaspic pieces in pdtd into insuch suchaa way To the pâté To serve, into rectangular pieces serve,eut attthe whole lark. piece containsaawho le lar k. Discard as as to to make make sure sure that that each each piece p6td and the serve only only the and serve the pâté the sides of ofthe the crust crust surrounding surrounding the the sides top and and bottom bottom crust. crust. ptt6. PÂTÉ PERDREAU - - Prepare in an oval or Partridge pâté. nArf DE DE PERDREAU (see below). pdtd (see \"\"'U'l.ll",llllstancxs ItIt isis aa ferment substances and which which acts acts very energetically on on albumin contained and contained in in in meat meat and in in milk, which it it first first curdles. white, in egg white, curdles. fennent appears appears to to be be destroyed destroyed by by heating heating and and it it is is This ferment not present present in in sterilised, sterilised, tinned tinned pineapple. pineapple. Pineapple Pineapple con tains not contains large quantity quantity of ofVitamins A and and B. B. aa large Vitamins A When itit is is quite quite ripe ripe this this fruit fruit has has aa very very pleasant pleasant smell. smel!. Its Its When

it

700 700

PINION

t

Decorate with with cherries and angelica angelica and and finish finish off off as as Decorate cherries and described in that recipe. described Pineapple tart à i la royale. CROÛTE cno0rs À A L'ANANAS I'ANANAs À A LA Pineapple rl ROYALE noyere -- Arrange aa border of half slices slices of pineapple and and slices slices of pasty cream savarin (q.v.). Fill the middle with thick French pastry mixed with a grated pineapple (see CREAMS) mixed pineapple flavoured with kirsch. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with cru Decorate with kirsch. shed macaroons. crushed macaroons. Decorate crystallised fruit. Pineapple tourte Pineapple TOURTE, Apricot tourte -- See TOURTE, Apricot tourte. ponc À with pineapple. PORC i, L'ANANAS Pork witb L'ANANAs -- Brown sorne some diced smoked bacon in a frying smoked frying pan, then add a piece ofpork of pork chine. Brown. Remove Brown. Remove the meat and and place in aa casserole. Sprinkle pineapple juice. Bake with thyme, bay leaf, cloyes and 11 cup pineapple cloves and hours in a moderate for 2 hours moderate oyen, oven, basting basting frequently. Serve with Rice à d la créole crdole (see RICE).

ices, I fresh shredded shredded or grated grated pineapple. pineapple. Leave to steep for 2 hours. Pass this mixture through a sieve and flavour it with

kirsch. gauge and syrup gauge and rectify until until it kirsch. Measure it it with aa syrup

registers 18 0 to 20'. 20 0 • registers from l8'to Chill in aafreezer Serve in CREAMS AND ICES). Serve freezer (see (see ICE ICE CREAMS wine wine glasses, goblets goblets or sundae glasses. Iced Iced pineapplepineapple - See ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND ICES.

Pineapple cr,lc6rs AÀ coupEs GLACÉFS Pineapple with witb vanilla vanilla ice ice cream. cream. COUPFS - Fill dessert glasses with vanilla ice cream and diced pineapple pineapple steeped steeped in kirsch. cream and Decorate sprinkle with Decorate with pineapple pineapple cut in lozenges, and sprinkle kirsch. Pineapple l'impératrice. .lN^lxls ANANAS i, À r'nrrpfultntce L'IMPÉRATRICE - ProPineapple ià I'imp6ratrice. ceed as described d l'impératrice l'impiratrice (see Apricots à described in the recipe recipe for Apricots APRICOT), APRICOT), replacing the latter by half slices of pineapple cooked in syrup. Or prepare the pineapple as described described for Icedpineapple Iced pineapple (see (see ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND ICES). Fill RICE), and diced l'impératrice (see (see RICE), Fill the the rind rind with with Rice dà I'impiratrice pineapple pineapple steeped steeped in kirsch. Leave and serve like iced Leave to set in a cold place, or on ice, and pineapple. pineapple. Pineapple manqn6. MANQUÉ A À L'ANlNls L'ANANAS - Add Add diced manqué. ralNeuf crystallised pineapple to a manqui manqué (q.v.) mixture. Bake and turn turn out. Ice lce with Fondant Fondant icing (see ICING) flavoured with pineapple. top with with pieces pieces of of crystallised pineapple. Decorate Decorate the the top pineapple. pineapple. Pineapple CR~PES FOURRÉES, Pineapple pancakes pancakes (crGpes). (crêpes). cntpns rouRnfrs, pANNEeUETs PANNEQUETS A À l'ANlNas L'ANANAS - Prepare Prepare pannequets (q.v.). (q.v.). Coat jam, with pineapple them them with thick apricot apricotjam, pineapple cooked in syrup and cut into into minute minute dice dice added to it. Roll up up the pancakes. pancakes. Glaze in the oven Apricot oyen as as described described in the the recipe recipe for for Apricot panne que t s (see pannequets (see PANNEQUETS). PANNEQUETS). Or Or coat coat the the pancakes pancakes with with French French pasty pastry cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREA MS) with a grated pineapple added to it and finish as as indicated above. above. indicated Pineapple ià la pi6montaise. piémontaise. ,lNlNls ANANAS A À rl LA prfuoxrnsn PIÉMONTAlSE Proceed Proceed as as described in in the the recipe recipe for Pineapple Condd, Condé, for Pineapple replacing replacing dessert rice rice by by a layer of of polenta polenta (q.v.) bound bound with egg egg and and flavoured with vanilla. vanilla. Or Or arrange arrange the the half half slices slices of of pineapple, pinea pple, cooked cooked in syrup, syru p, on crescent-shaped crescent-shaped polenta polenta croquettes. croquettes. Pineapple ANANAS AU RJz RIZ - Proceed as described described Pineapple with witb rice. rice. ANANAs for Apricots Apricots with rice (see APRICOT), APRICOT), replacing the halved apricots half slices slices of of pineapple pineapple in syrup. syrup. apricots by by half Pineapple ANANAS MERTNGUE MERINGUE AU AU Rrz RIZ Pineapple with witb rice rice and and meringue. meringue. ANANAS Proceed as as described described in the the recipe recipe for Apricots Apricots with rice and and -- Proceed meringue (see APRICOT) APRICOT) using slices slices of of pineapple poached poached meringue in in vanilla-fl vanilla-flavoured avoured syrup. Pineapple sauce sauce -- See See SAUCE. SA U CE. Pineapple SAVARIN A À L'eNaNls L'ANANAS -- Prepare Prepare a savarin savarin Pineapple savarin. savarin. SAvARIN Pineapple (q.v.). (q.v.). Saturate Saturate it with with syrup and and flavour flavour with kirsch kirsch or or rum. of pineapple Arrange itit in a dish and garnish garnish with half half slices slices of Arrange fill the the middle with with diced diced pineapple cooked in syrup, syrup, or flll cooked hot or or cold. cooked in in syrup. Serve Serve hot cooked ANANAS EN EN suRpRrsE SURPRISE - Scoop out and Pineapple surprise. surprise. ANANAS Pineapple prepare lced prepare aa large large pineapple pineapple as described described in the recipe for lced pineapple pineapple (see (see ICE CREAMS CREA MS AND AND ICES). (q.v.) composed composed of of the scooped-out Fill itit with with amacidoine a macédoine (q.v.) Fill pineapple pineapple pulp pulp cut cut in thin thin slices, slices, fresh fresh blanched blanched almonds and aU kinds kinds of fruit, previously previously steeped in kirsch and and castor all sugar. sugar. Put the the pineapple pineapple upright upright in a dish filled filled with with crushed cru shed ice Put to chill chill for for 22 hours hours before before serving. serving. and leave leave to and lced pineapple. pineapple. Serve like like lced Serve Pineapple tart. tart. cno0rr CROÛTE iÀ r'lNlNAs L'ANANAS -- Proceed Proceed as as described described Pineapple Fruit crofites croûtes (see (see CROOTES) CROÛTES) using, using, instead instead in the the recipe recipe for for Fruit in of mixed mixed fruit, fruit, only only pineapple pineapple cut cut in half half slices slices for for the the border border of and in in large large dice dice for for the the interior. interior. and L'ANANAs L'ANANAS A À ul LA vr,mrln VANILLE -

PINfE -- French word for first quality quality dried cod. PINÉE prcNoN -- Kernels of pine cones, which in PINE SEED (Nut). PIGNON PINE taste tas te resemble almonds almonds and have have various uses in cookery cookerv and

confectionery confectionery.. This nut is known known as pignoli in cookery. as pignoli PINION or TRY WING. PINION POULTRY WING. or POUL

AILERON ATLERoN -- The The terminal of a bird's bird's wing, also segment of also called wing tip. The pinions of The giblets, can of large birds, which are classed classed as giblets, be made into a great number of dishes (see GIBLETS). of dishes The 'pinion' also means The word word'pinion' means the bones which support support the fin rays offish. The recipes follow are The pinions of recipes which which follow are intended intended for for pinions turkeys or turkey-poults, but turkeys or turkey-poults, but they they are are also also suitable suitable for preparing of other big preparing pinions of big poultry. l'anglaise. ATLERoNS AlLERONS DE DINDONNEAU Pinions of turkey ài I'anglaise. DTNDoNNrAU À A L.ANGLAISE -- See GIBLETS, Turkey giblets àd l'anglaise. L.ANGLATSE Turkey giblets I'anglaise. Pinions of bourgeoise. AILERONS Pinions of turkey ià la bourgeoise. ATLERoNS DE DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAU À r.r LA souncnorsE BOURGEOISE -- See IBLETS, Turkey giblets àd la A GIBLETS, Turkey giblets See G bourgeoise. Turkey pinion pinion broth. broth. For-AU-FBU POT-AU-FEU AUX Turkey Attx AILERONS ATLERoNS DE DINDONNEAU - This This is is prepared like broth with DINDoNNEAU like ordinary broth stuffed turkey turkey pinions. (See (See SOUPS stuffed SOUPS AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Pot-aufeu.) feu.) Pinions of AlLERONS DE Pinions of turkey turkey cbasseur. chasseur. ATLERoNS DINDoNNEAU DE DINDONNEAU CHASSEUR - Cut the pinions pinions in 2 pieces. pieces. Season with salt and cHASSEUR pepper, pepper, fry them them in butter, butter, and finish cooking cooking as as described described in chasseur (see CHICKEN). the recipe for Sautéed Sautied chicken chasseur Consommé with with pinions pinions 1. AlLERONS -Consomm6 I. CONSOMMÉ coNsourrd AUX lux ATLERoNS Prepare aa chicken chicken consommé Prepare consomm6 (see SOUPS, SOUPS , Clear soups). Bone Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see and stuff stuff the the pinions pinions with and with aa Quenelle FORCEMEATS). Put Put the the pinions into FORCEMEATS). into the the consommé consomm6 to consommé through a muslin c10th cook. Pass the consomm6 cloth and serve with trimmed trimmed pinions. is sometimes sometimes added to this Rice cooked cooked in in consomm6 consommé is Rice this soup. AUX AILERoNS AILERONS -Consommé with witb pinions II. II. CONSOMMÉ cousolryn AUx Consomm6 Prepare meat stock. Trim Trim 6 pinions, put in a muslin bag and Prepare cook in the stock. Strain the stock stock and serve with with the pinions, removing all ail the little bones which have come loose during removing cooking. cooking. dried in cut into small pieces and Serve with bread cut and dried in the Carrots and leeks, cooked in stock and cut into pieces pieces oyen. Carrots oven. sometimes added to this soup. are sometimes Fricassée of turkey pinions. pinions. ATLERoNs AlLERONS DE DE DINDONNEA Fricassee DTNDoNNEAUU EN Cook the the pinions, pinions, stuffed stuffed as in (1) FRICASSÉE - Cook (I) rmc.lssfn as described described in ab ove, until two-thirds done, in chicken or veal stock. Put above, them into into aa saute sauté pan with with small sm ail onions onions and mushrooms mushrooms halfthem veal stock. Moisten with Velouté sauce cooked in chicken or veal Velouti sauce SAUCE) made made from from the stock stock in which the pinions pinions were (see SAUCE) Finish cooking cooking together, simmering simmering gently. Bind the cooked. Finish sauce with with egg egg yolks yolks and cream, cream, as as described described in the recipe for sauce Fricassée of of chicken chicken dà la berrichonne berrichonne (see (see FRICASSEE). FRICASSÉE). FricassCe

701 701

PINOT PINOT Turkey pinions ài la la niçoise. nigoise. AlLERONS ATLERoNs DE DE DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAu Ài LA r.l pinions with Season the the pinions with salt salt and and papper. Fry Fry briskly briskly - ;:')Ieas;on in aa mixture mixture of golden. Into of butter butter and Remove when golden. and oil. oil. Remove Into the the in pan put (for 66 pinions) same pan put (for pinions) 50 (2 OZ., 50 g.g. (2 cup) chopped oz., tI cup) chopped same onion. Fry Fry lightly, peeled, seeded, lightly, add add 33 peeled, seeded, chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, onion. grated garlic. Cook and aa little little grated put the Cook for for 55 minutes, minutes, put the pinions and pan, add aa bouquet in the the pan, garni (q.v.), moisten bouquet garni(q.v.), moisten with li l+ dl. dl. back in pint, jcup) dry white white wine, wine, season, season, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, cover, cover, (!$ pint, 3 c,rp) dry and simmer simmer for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Add Add24 black olives olives and and the the same same and 24 black number of of small small button button mushrooms. mushrooms. Finish Finish cooking, simsimnurober gently for mering gently for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped tartarmering

SAUCE), depending depending on on the the nature nature of of the the dish. dish.Glaze Glaze the SAUCE), the pinions with with ajelly_ a jelly. Garnish Garnish with with chopped jelly. pinions Pinions in in chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce saucecan can be be decorated with with truffies, Pinions truffies, tongue àd l'écarlate, l'Ccarlate, hard-boiled hard-boiled egg eggwhite, white, etc., etc., croûtons crofitons of tongue of bread spread with glass dish with butter. butter. Place Place them them ininaaglass dish and bread cover andcover

NtgoIsE -NH;UI;SI::

with jelly. pinions Stufied turkey turkey pi with chipolata nions with chipolata sausages. sausages. AILERONS ATLERoNS DE DE DINDoNNEAU FARCIS giblets FARcrs CHlPOLATA DINDONNEAU like Turkey Turkey giblets cHrpoLATA -- Prepare like (see GIBLETS). with chipolata sausages (see with

Stufied turkey plnions lii lala fermière. fermiire. AILERONS ATLERoNs DE DE

i, LA pinions with the pinions r,,1,FERMIÈRE rrrudrr -- Stuff Stuffthe with aa finely pounded pounded forcemeat finely of chopped chopped onions forcemeat of onions cooked cooked inin butter until until transparent, parsley. Braise butter transparent, mixed mixed with Braise with chopped chopped parsley. pinions until the pinions until half half done the done and and put inin an an earthenware earthenware casserole. Cover Cover them with garnish àd laIa fermiire (carrots, casserole. them with turnips, celery celery and turnips, and onions, onions, sliced and and lightly fried in butter). Remove fat pan juices, boil fat from from the Remove the panjuices, pour boil down, down, strain, strain, and and pour over the over the ingredients ingredients in in the the casserole. casserole. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in the the oven with with aa !id oven lid on. on. Shfred turkey pinions fried Stuffed turkey pinions fried inin batter. ATLERoNS DE batter. AILERONS DE DINDoNNEAU FARCIS DINDONNEAU EN FRITOT -- Stuff and cook FARcrsENrnrror pinions as cook the the pinions Stuffand as described ove. Strain described ab Strain the the stock stock in above. in which which they they were were cooked cooked and and leave leave them them to to cool cool in in il. it. Drain Drain and and marinate marinate for for 30 minutes in 30 minutes in oil, oil, lemon juice, salt, salt, pepper and pepper (see and chopped parsley. Dip Dip them light batter (see them in in aa Iight BA TTERS FOR FRYING) and BATTERS and deep-dry in sizzling sizzling fat. fat. deep-dry in Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with dry dry fine fine salt. fried salt. Garnish Garnish with with fried parsley and quarters of parsley and quarters of lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with tomato tomato or or other other sauce. sauce. Stuffed pinions lii la Stuffd turkey p6rigourdine. AILERONS turkey piniolls la périgourdine. ATLERoNS DE DE pfuicouRDrNE -- Stuff DINDONNEAU DINDoNNEAU FARCIS pinions FARcrs ÀA LA L,c, PÉRIGOURDINE Stuff the the pinions with with foie and diced diced truffies, truffies, to to which which aa !ittle little Pork Pork foie gras and forcemeat be added. added. Season Season with with can be forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) can salt, pepper and salt, pepper spices, and and sprinkle with and spices, with brandy. brandy. Wrap Wrap in in rashers rashers of of bacon. bacon. Braise Braise in in stock stock laced laced with with Madeira. When ove, unwrap, put When three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, rem remove, unwrap, put in 2 cups) quartered in an (7 OZ., an earthenware earthenware dish quartered dish with with 200 200 g. (7 o2.,2 truffies for for 66 pinions. Skim Skim the the fat off the stock, boil boil down, down, off the strain, pour the strain, and pinions. Cook and pour the stock stock over over the the pinions. Cook in the oven oven in the for for 15 15 minutes. Stuffed pinions Sainte-Menehould. Stufied turkey turkey pinions Sainte-Menehould. AlLERONS ATLERoNS DE DE DINDONNEAU DINDoNNEAU SAINTE-MENEHOULD SATNTE-MENEHoULD -- Stuff as dedethe pinions as Stuff the scribed above above and and braise in in white white wine wine or in clear veal veal stock. or in stock. Drain Drain and cool press. cool under under aa press. Brush with butter, grated breadcrumbs, butter, dip dip in in toasted toasted or breadcrumbs, or grated grill on sprinkle with melted butter and and grill on aa low low heat heat until until both both sides are golden. Serve Serve either with with Diable sauce sauce or with Sainte-Menehould or with Sainte-Menehould sauce (see SAUCE) pinions SAUCE) made from from the stock in which which the the pinions stock in were braised. Grilled pinions Sainte-Menehould Grilled pinions Sainte-Menehould can can be be served served with with various vel~et:ables, vegetables, cooked cooked in water and dressed with with butter, butter, and dressed or with pur6es ofvegetables. of vegetables. Serve Serve with mustard. pinions il.i la Sfifid turkey turkey pinions Soubise. AILERONS ATLERoNS DE DE la Soubise. DINDONNEAU DINDoNNEAU FARCIS FARcrs À A LA rA SOUBISE sousrsn -- Stuff Stuff and and braise braise the the pinions as as described above. glaze. Arrange above. Drain and Arrange on and glaze. on aa dish and sprinkle with the boiled-down panjuices, pan juices. Serve with Serve with Onion soubise (see (see PURÉE). PUREE). DINDoNNEAU FARCIS FARcrs DINDONNEAU

ragon.

pinions Turkey pi en tortue. tortue. AILERONS ATLERoNs DE DE DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAU EN EN nions en Bone 12 12 turkey turkey pinions in in such such aa way way as as to to shape shape - Bone them into into pockets. Stuff Stuff with with aa Quenelle them Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). Sew Sew up up the the opening. Fry Fry thinly thinly sliced carrots and and onions in bacon bacon fat pinions. Season onions in fat and add the Season the pinions. carrots with salt salt and (q.v.), and aa \ittle little allspice. garni (q.v.), allspice. Add Add aa bouquet bouquet garni with sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and put the the pan on on brisk brisk heat. heat. Brown both sides of of the pinions lightly. Moisten with with 1I glass Madeira. Leave to to boil boil down completely. completely. Add Add aa few few tableMadeira. ToRTUE TORTUE

spoons thickened brown veal veal stock stock and in aa slow slow oven, and braise in oven, uncovered. uncovered. Remove the pinions with aa perforated spoon, and put into into Remove garnish (see (see GARNISHES). Add Tortue garnish Add another pan with Tortue juices, boil (see SAUCE) to Tortue sauce sauce (see pan juices, to the the braising braising pan boil Tortue for down, strain, and pour over the pinions. Leave to simmer simmer for a few minutes. Arrange the pinions on on aa serving dish dish with with the the them. Add supplementary garnish: gherkins garnish around them. cut in in small small uniform uniform pieces, fried yolks of egg, dressed cut crayfish, heart-shaped heart-shaped crofitons fried crayfish, fried in in butter. Pour the the over the pinions. sauce over Stufied turkey turkey pinions in Stuffed in aspic ietly. AlLERONS ATLERoNs DE DE DINDoNNBAU FARCIS pinions with DINDONNEAU FARcrs A LA rl GELÉE cnrfn -- Stuff the pinions with aa (see FORCEMEATS), addfinely pounded Pork forcemeat forcemeat (see adddiced truffies or aa forcemeat pork, foie ing diced forcemeat made made of minced pork, of minced foie gras and truffies. trufres. Wrap each pinion in aa piece of muslin and and s@ure with with string. Cook in in aa stock secure stock made from from Madeiraflavoured meat jelly or aa rich broth flavoured with Madeira. Drain, Drain, cook, and put in a dish. Clarify Clarify the liquidjelly liquidjelly in which they were cooked and pour over the pinions. (See JELL Y, JELLY, jelly stock.) Meat Meatjelly Stufid braised pinions of turkey. AILERONS Stuffed ATLERoNs DE DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAU FARcIs, sRArsfs -- Singe and FARCIS, BRAlSÉS pinions. Bone and pluck 66 turkey pinions. them carefully, so them carefully, not to damage the so as as not the skin. skin. Stuff them with forcemeat: with forcemeat: finely finely pounded pork forcemeat, chicken forcemeat, quenelle forcemeat, or forcemeat, quenelle or any any other other (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS). STUFFINGS). Wrap Wrap each one in a thin rasher (slice) of of bacon bacon and secure secure with thread. rasher sorne butter in aa sauté Melt some saut6 pan, and and in in it brown bacon rinds, 50 g. (2 oz., OZ., * cup) onion onion and 50 g. (2 OZ., carrot, oz., t* cup) carrot, cut in in thin thin slices. slices. Arrange the the pinions on these. Add a bouquet cut Addabouquet garni (q.v .), and season season with salt and pepper. Simmer Simmer under under a lid on on top top of of the the stove st ove for l5 15 minutes. minutes. dl. (| (1 pint, scant cup) Moisten with 2 dl. cup) dry dry white white wine wine or Madeira, according according to to recipe, recipe, boil boil down, and add 4 Madeira, (f; pint, 4 dl. (i brown chicken or veal stock. Bring scant 22 cups) brown Bring to the boil. Cook in the oven, oven, covered, covered, for for 40 40 minutes. minutes, Remove the Cook pinions, pinions, unwrap unwrap them and glaze in aa hot oven. oven, Arrange Arrange them glazein on a dish and pour over them the pan juices in which which they braised, with the fat fat skimmed off, boiled down were braised, off, boiled down and strained. strained. The pinions can be be completed with with various garnishes. The pi nions in chaud-froid sauce. AILERONS ShfiGd turkey pinions ATLERoNS DE DE DINDONNEAU FARcrs FARCIS EN EN cHAUD-FRoID CHAUD-FROm - Cook Cook the the stuffed DINDoNNEAU in liquid liquid aspic aspic jelly jelly laced laced with Madeira. Madeira. Leave to cool pinions in the stock. stock, Drain Drain and and dry dry well. weil. in the Cover with with white white or or brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see Cover (see

PINOT PINOT -- Variety grapes of Variety of of grapes of which which the the black black isis used used exclusively for making red wines. In In Champagne Champagne red Burgundy wines. the white Pinot is is used. used. prr,Er - Variety PINTAIL PINTAIL (Duck). PILET like - Variety of wild duck. Prepare like wild duck or spoonbill spoonbill or shoveller shoveller duck duck (see DUCK).

PIPERADE -- Basque dish. PIPERADE dish. Cooked tomatoes tomatoes and and peppers to which eggs are by one, are added, one one by one, to fluffy pur6e. To to obtain obtain aa fluffy this is is added Bayonne Bayonne ham, ham. 702 702

PISTACHIO PISTACHIO PIPIT -- Small Small edible same PIPIT prepared in the sa me edible bird which can be prepared way as lark (q.v.).

PIPKIN. PIPKJN. HUGUENOTE HUGUENoTE little feet. without HUle

-

-

bringing the edges together and sealing them. Keep filling by bringing in a warm place to rise for 25 minutes. Bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. minutes. Polish pirozhki. pnocur por,oNArs - Roll out puffpastry 6 PoUsb oval-shaped pieces about to 7 mm. $ inch) thick and cut into ov~u-snal)ea (2| inches) wide and 10 l0 cm. (4 inches) long. 6 cm. (2! the following filling filling on on each, each, in in pieces the size of a Put the walnut. g. (2 oz., !I cup) chopped onion in butter, Saut6 gently 50 g. Sauté add 250 g. (9 oz.) veal udder udder and 250 g. (9 oz.) lean veal, cut in pepper fried in butter. butter. Season Season with salt, pepper small dice and also also fried leave to cool before before using. and nutmeg and leave Seal as ~V.~VLLV~'~ for Moscow pirozhki, and and described in the recipe recipe for bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. minutes. plRocur AUX Pirozhki witb with truffies. trufres. PIROGUI AUx TRUFFES TRTJFFES -- Cut cooked Pirozbki truffies into thick truffies Béchamel thick round slices. slices. Cover with thick Bdchamel SAUCE) and leave until cold. sauce (see SAUCE) (q.v.\ circlets cut two blini blini (q.v.) cut out Sandwich these between between two seal the edges. well to seaJ cutter, and press down weB with aa pastry cutter, clarified in breadcrumbs and fry in c1arified Dip in beaten egg, roll in butter. Pirozhki witll with various vsrious vegetable fillings. pIRocuI AUx Pirozhki LÉGUMES lfcuuns -- Proceed Proceed as as rI"""rih",rI described in the recipe for Carrot pirozhki, replacing carrots by a salpicon (q.v.) of various vegetables cooked in butter and bound with Bichamel sauce SAUCE). (see SAUCE). vegetable pirozhki may be supplemented supplemented by The filling of vegetable cooked in stock or water. buckwheat or rice cooked Visiga pirozhki. pIRocuI vtslcn -- Roll out puffpastry I PIROGUI lu AU VÉSIGA cm. (t inch) thick cm. thick and cut into circlets 10 cm. (4 inches) in diameter. Put on each sorne some of of the following mixture: visiga (dry spinal spinal cord of of the sturgeon) sturgeon) Cook 100 g. (4 oz.) visiga parsley roots and stock, 4 parsley and 1 stalk ofcelery. of celery. Drain the in white stock, parsley roots and celery, celery, add add2 visiga, chop it, as well as the parsley 2 chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. chopped Bind with 3 tablespoons (scant !I cup) cup) thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce pepper and nutmeg nutmeg and leave SAUCE). Season with salt, pepper (see SAUCE). Season with before using. to get cold before Moisten the fold in in the the shape of a the edges of the pastry, fold turnover, well, brush with beaten egg, and bake in a hot turnover, seal weil, l8 to 20 minutes. minutes. oven from 18

with or Old-fashioned cooking pot with

PIQUEPOULT-- Wine made in the Gers département, PIQlJEPOlJLT dCpartemenf, from which Armagnacs are distilled. PIQUETTE -- Wine of second or third pressing obtained by flooding husks of grapes with It is a with unsweetened warm water. water. It of grapes light, rel"reshinll! refreshing drink drink which which does does not not travel, and is is used travel, and either for for home home consumption consumption or or for for distilling distilling purposes. either Common usage has also extended the word to mean mean 'mediCommon ocre wine'.

In Russian Russian the na name PIROGHI or PIROZHKI. pnocut PIROGUI -- In me piroghi means pies large portions. large enough to be cut cut into into portions. to be Pirozhki,meaning !ittle little pies, are small small enough enough to be eaten out ofthe of the hand. prRocur AUx pirozhki. PIROGUI Roll sorne some puff Carrot pirozhki. AUX CAROTTES cARorrEs -- Roll pastry about 6 or 7 mm. (! (} inch) thick and cut into circ1es circles 10 l0 cm. (4 inches) in diameter. Shred the carrots into a brunoise (q.v.), cook in butter, mix with chopped parsley and chives, bind with chopped hard-boiled with hard-boiled eggs, parsley thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) and put put 1I tablespoon of mixture on each circ1et circlet of this mixture of pastry. pastry and Moisten the the pastry and seal, seal, enclosing the Moisten the edges of the an oval shape. Put them on a filling and giving the pirozhki anoval baking sheet, brush with beaten egg and bake for 18 minutes baking in a hot oven. pIRocuI CAUCASIENS pirozhki. PIROGUI Caucasian pirozbki. cAUcAsIENs -- Spread a thin (see CHOU) on layer of cheese-flavoured cheese-flavowed Chou on a layer Chou pastry (see pastry on sheet. Bake in in the oven. on aa table, baking sheet. oven. Put the pastry divide into 2 parts and sandwich them together, having first coated them with a light layer of thick thtck Bichamel sauce (see Béchamel sauce to which which sorne some grated cheese cheese and and cooked cooked sliced SAUCE), to mushrooms,have been added. mushrooms,have (1| cm. (Z1inches) and 3 cm. cm. (lt Cut into rectangles rectangles 66 cm. inches) long and inches) wide. Cover these with with cheese-flavoured cheese-flavowed Bichamel sauce, and and Cover Béchamel sauce, coat with with breadcrumbs. Fry in fat and in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat coat drain. Cream cheese FRoMAcE -- Butter Butter Cream PIROGUI AU AU FROMAGE cheese pirozhki. prRocur dariole moulds moulds and !ine line them dariole them with with unsweetened unsweetened Common brioche dough (see BRIOCHE). Fill with with cream cheese, cover of the same dough and seal the edges. Leave to with a circlet of warrn place for 30 minutes. Bake in a hot oven from rise in a warm 2Oto25 minutes. 20 to 25 minutes. prRocur AU POISSON porssol -- Proceed as described pirozhki. PIROGUI Fish pirozbki. described in Fish the recipe for Game pirozhki (see below), replacing the game Game pirozhki meat by chopped cooked white fish. pIRocuI AU GIBIER -- Prepare Puff pastry Game pirozhki. PIROGUI AU GmIER (see DOUGH), roll it out! (* inch) inch) thick and cut into out I cm. (! circles about 7 to 8 cm. (3 inch inches) es) in diameter. Put 1I tablespoon game hash with chopped hash (q.v.), mixed with Put hard-boiled eggs, cooked buckwheat or rice cooked in meat hard-boiled stock, on each circ1et. circlet. Moisten the edges edges of the pastry, and size and thickness. cover with another another circlet circlet of the the same size l8 to 20 Brush with beaten egg, and bake in a hot oven from 18 minutes. minutes. Roll out A LA LA MOSCOVlTE rvroscovlTE -- Roll PIROGUI À Moscow pirozhki. plRocr.n (see BRIOCHE) unsweetened Common brioche brioche dough BRIOCHE) into un:sw(~et~ene:d dough (see (2| inch inches) wide and 10 l0 cm. (4 inch inches) oval pieces pieces abou es) wide es) aboutt 6 cm. (2i long. Put on on each filling, the the size size of aa walnut, walnut, long. each aa piece of filling, prepared in the following manner. manner. g. (3 oz.) Chop and mix 100 g. (4 oz.) white flaked fish, fish, 75 g. cooked visiga (dry spinal cord of the sturgeon) and 2 hardofthe boiled eggs. Season. Season. Moisten the edges edges of the dough dough slightly and enclose the Moisten

PISSALADIDRE -- Flan made in the Nice region, PISSALADIÈRE made mainly in the Nice filled with onions, anchovy anchovy fillets and black olives. PISTACHE (EN) - Term used in the south-western part of France, mainly in the Catalan country, to describe a special rnethod of preparing leg of mutton. Its only garnish consists of cloves of garlic. (See MUTTON, Pistache of mutton.) Pigeons and partridges can also be prepared en pistache.

ptsrlclc -- Seed PISTACHIO. Seed of of the Pistacia vera, PIST ACHIO. PISTACHE the Pistacia vera, a which, it is is said, deciduous tree, tree, native of the the Levant, which, said, was brought to Rome by Vitellius. It yields an edible nut, about the size ofan of an olive, brown-reddisb brown-reddish in colour, with with aathin thin husk, inside which which aa ligneous membrane is is found. found. This is is easily pale almond separated into into 2 pieces and very pale contains separated tains aa very and con reddish skin. enclosed in a reddish pleasant flavour and are have aa sweet and pleasant Pistachio nuts have pastry-making used as as flavouring in in cookery, cookery, charcuterie, charcuterie, pastry-making used and confectionery. mutton ragoût ragofit the name name given to to aa Comminges mutton This is is the garnished with haricot haricot beans. Here is the recipe given by M. garnished Jean Peyrafitte of of the hotel 'Poste et Golf GolP at Luchon: (18 oz.) 'Soak 500 g. (18 for 12 'Soak oz.) white white Tarbes haricot beans for hours, changing tbe in an hours, beans in the water water twice. twice. Cook Cook the the beans garni, sorne earthenware casserole casserole with with aa bouquet bouquet garni, some whole garlic, 1I onion stuck with 2 or more cloves, aa good carrots, garlic, home-cured barn hock of of home-cured ham and 150 g. (5 oz.) fresh pork rinds. 703 703

PISTOU PISTOU 'Saut6 aa piece piece of (shoulder preferably). preferably). When of mutton mutton (shoulder 'Sauté When this this three-quarters cooked, cooked, drain drain itit and and add add the the haricot haricot beans. isis three-quarters beans. Simmer over low heat over aa low heat until until the the mutton mutton isis cooked. cooked. Check Simmer the Check the seasoning and serve in and serve in the the casserole.' casserole.' seasoning

me diameter into into aa circ\e circle of of the the sa same diameter as as that that fonning forming the the bottom bottom gflteau. To of of the the gâteau. piece of To seal, pastry seal, moisten moisten the the bottom bottom piece of pastry around th the around the piece, taking the edges edges and and cover cover wi with the second second piece, taking care care to to turn turn it. it. Press Press weil well ail all round round to properly, to seal seal the the edges edges properly, brush with brush with beaten beaten egg egg and and leave leave for for 55 minutes. point minutes. With With the the point ofa of a knife knife mark mark the the top top with with faint faint lines lines in in the the shape shape ofa of a rosette rosette and and bake bake in in the the oven oven from from 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Two Two minutes minutes before king itit out taking before ta gdteau with out of of the the oven, sprinkle the oven, sprinkle the gâteau with very very fine sugar glaze in fine the oven. sugarand and glaze part of in the the hottest hottest part ofthe oven.

(Italian cookery) PISTOU Otaliao cookery) -- This This soup, soup, the recipe for for which which isis the recipe PISTOU given in in the the section section headed headed SOUPS AND BROTHS, SOUPS AND BROTHS, isis made given made ofvarious vegetables and and thick thick vennicelli. vermicelli. Its Its main main characterof various vegetables characteristic isis that pounded garlic garlic with that pounded grilled tomatoes with basil basil and and grilled istic tomatoes mixed with with oil oil are are used. used. mixed Pistou actually pounded basil. actually means means pounded basil. Its Its meaning Pistou meaning has has been been extended to include soups to include soups incorporating incorporating the extended the latter. latter.

PITffiVIERS PITHIVIERS AU AU FOIN FOIN-- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. PLAFOND PLAFOND -- French French word word for for tinned tinned copper copper metal metal baking baking sheets, sheets, which which were were used used in in the the olden olden days davs for for browning brownine small small pieces ofmeat. pieces of meat.

PITIIMERS GÂTEAU gdteau isis aa speciality GATEAU -- This This gâteau PITHIVIERS speciality of of Pithiviers. It It isis made (see DOUGH) made of pastry (see of Puff Puff pastry Pithiviers. DOUGH) and and paste, almond pas which can prepared from can be a1mond te, which be prepared from the the foUowing following ingredients : 50 (2 oz., g. (2 (2 oz., 50 g. ingredients: g. (2 oz., tcup) almonds, 50 50 g. oz., I cup) blanched almonds, cup) fine g. (2 (2 oz., fine sugar, sugar, 50 50 g. (3 oz., ± cup) butter, 33 eggs eggs and i* cup) and tj dl. dl. (3 f, cup) tablespoons, scant! scant I cup) cup) rum. rum. tablespoons, Pound the Pound the almonds almonds in in aa mortar, mortar, adding adding 1I egg. egg. When When they they paste, put into aa bowl, add castor fine paste, are reduced to aa fine castor sugar sugar and butter, butter, and and blend blend the mixture, stirring en and the mixture, stirring with with aa wood wooden spoon until very smooth. smooth. Add Add 2 eggs, one flavour one by one, one, and and flavour puffpastry piece 20 rum. Roll Roll out out half the the puff with rum. pastry into aa round piece 20 (8 inches) in diameter crn (8 (,o1inch) cm inch) thick. Turn diameter and and 2 mm (io Turn the and put on a moistened moistened metal sheet. pastry and paste, leaving about 22 cm the almond almond paste, (| Spread this with the cm Ginch) of the the edge edge uncovered. uncovered. Roll Roll out the inch) the rest rest of the the pastry

Plaice

pLrE FRANCHE PLAICE. PLAICE. CARRELET, cARRELET, PLIE FRANcHE -- Seawater Seawater fish fish which which isis fiat, flat, diamond-shaped diamond-shaped with The two eyes with rounded angles. angles. The eyes are are

plaice How to to fillet fillet plaice

Remove head

Make an down the back base base Make incision down an incision the back

Cut into fillets

Skin

704

PLATE was distributed distributed to to the the meal meal this this bread was trencher. After the poor. At the end fifteenth century everybody wanted to end of the fifteenth At and dishes. Juvenal Juvenal des des Ursin sorrowfully have silver plates plates and protested against this abuse. protested plates became and seventeenth centuries centuries plates In the sixteenth and gold, enamel magnificent works of art, in which which gold, enamel and even art, in and even m~Lgrlitilcerlt works precious stones stones were combined. There exist today wonderful wonderful plates which were were made by the enamellers of Limoges. Limoges. Plants, relief on the plates of shells and animais animals can be seen worked in relief Bernard Palissy. the plates in precious metals Although the greater part of the present-day plates -- about enamels are of the same size as present-day and enamels cm. (8 inches) in diameter -- they were rather show show pieces 20 cm. Sivres than table utensils in daily use. Plates manufactured at Sèvres ofbygone come very near to the art of bygone days. The faïence faience of Moustiers, for its its decorative Moustiers, remarkable for The qualities and purity of its was for time long lime and the the purity its enamel, enamel, was for aa long attributed to the facto factories attributed ries of Rouen. At the the end end of of the the seventeenth seventeenth century Pierre Pierre Clerissy, At potters, created in coming from in Moustiers Moustiers aa from aa family of potters, coming pottery industry, 'must have to Davillier, 'must industry, which, according to brought him town aa century him aa fortune, fortune, and and to to his century of of brought his town n,.,",c,.."",.,tu'. prosperity'. His nephew, who succeeded succeeded him in 1728 I 728 and bore the same same name, was elevated by Louis XV in in 1743 and and took Trevans. He was appointed secretary the title of Seigneur de Trevans. of the the king's of king's chancellery in in 1847 1847 by by the the Parliament Parliament of of Provence, when when he forces with with Joseph Fouque, a Provence, he joined forces skilled artist, and handed over his factory to him. The factory painters and remained remained the first first and most by now employed employed 28 painters be established his comcomsoon to important of ail established by his all those those soon to be petitors at neighbouring Iv\..al1U,",". localities. at Moustiers and and in in several neighbouring Its products enjoyed reputation, which which they Its enjoyed aa well-merited reputation, maintained for Delaporte, in in his for aa long long time, time, for for Abbé Abb6 Delaporte, Voyageur français, it in in in Paris in in 1788, 1788, speaks speaks of it Voyageur frangais, published in these terms terms:: 'There is in the !ittle little town of Moustiers aa factory'of faience kingdom.' considered the best and finest finest in the A.U'5""'-'IlLJ. which is considered at Other Other factories factories in France included those in the the south south of of France those at Marseille. Sorne notably those those of Savy, Savy, produced Some of these, these, notably still life, remarkable pieces, decorated with landscapes landscapes and and still decorated with painted with great perfection. The decoration ofplates plates offers subjects ofsubjects offers aa great variety of and curiosities. is very majolica,is curiosities. The The décor d6cor ofItalian of Italian plates, or majolica, varied. At were mixed mixed with varied. At the the beginning, the the ornaments were great figures, figures, then from the works of then scenes scenes reproduced from the works of great masters began to take precedence, often often taking up the whole surface. Finally, the central motive was framed with so-called grotesque ornaments. grotesque Italian influence isis felt; At Nevers, Nevers, Italian ornaments. At later we find find white decorations on on Persian blue background. Still Still later later cornes Nevers also also produced comes the the Chinese Chinese style. Nevers popular china 'patronymic' so-called'patronymic' china plates, particularly so-called plates, bearing the name person for whom they were whom they name of tbe the person presents, witb figure of his or destined as wedding presents, with aa figure of his or her as wedding patron saint professional painted on patron al it; plates bearing bearing profession saint painted on it; emblems and plates made revolutionary period, the revolutionary and plates made during the with mottos and symbols. symbols. popular Historical events have often been represented on on popular often been plates. The plates. scenes, The conquest Algeria, depicting military military scenes, conquest of of Algeria, such the consuls consuls of of as the of the the croix uoix d'honneur; d'honneur; the such as the award award of Damascus Damascus congratulating Abd his intervention intervention Abd el-Kader on on his on by the the on the the side side of the Lebanese Lebanese Maronites Maronites massacred by Turks; Turks; the welcoming French and the Syrian Maronites we1coming French troops, and episodes pictures and B6ranger from the War. Puzzle pictures and Béranger episodes from the 1914 1914 War. songs songs also also decorated decorated popular plates. Rouen plates plates have several styles styles of of decoration: decoration: the have had several lambrequin lambrequin design, symmetrical patterns, redesign, composed composed of of symmetrical peated or towards the centre of or alternating, alternating, and and converging converging towards

set on the left side of of the head. The left side is brownish brownish with rounded or oval spots, red or orange. Plaice have 5 or 6 bony tubercles well marked between the eyes. eyes. The reverse side is white. quite good, quality, is This fish, is quite though of of medium medium quality, This fish, though provided provided it is perfectly perfectly fresh. Boiled plaice witb with various various sauces. BoUILLI -- Only Boiled saucesi. CARRELET cARRELET BOillLLl large plaice are used in this way, cooked whole, or eut cut into slices. Cook them in a court-bouillon of water, milk, salt, and lemon slices, slices, in the same way as for brill (q.v.). Serve with Drain the plaice plaice and garnish with fresh parsley. Serve boiled potatoes potatoes in a dish and with one of the sauces which are normally served with boiled fish. normally served FEMME -cARRELET A ra BONNE noxNn FEMME À LA Plaice ài la bonne femme. CARRELET asfor d la bonne bonnefemme Proceed as for Brill Brm à femme (see BRILL). pucrfRf -- Cut a large plaice into Plaice Dugléré. Dugl6r6. CARRELET Plaice clnnnlsr DUGLÉRÉ (see and cook slices and in the Dugléré (see cook in the same way way as as for for Bass .Bass DuglCrd BASS). BASS). lore main it was was for for plaice that Dugl6r6 Chefs lore tains that it plaice that maintains (then chef invented this method chef of (then Cafd Anglais) Anglais) invented of the one-time Café of preparation, of preparation, which in actual practice practice is used for bass, brill and chicken-turbot. chicken-turbot. Use only sm small Fried plaice. plaice. CARRELET ail plaice and cARRELET FRIT FRIT -- Use cook in the same manner as Fried brm (see BRILL). Friedbrill Plaice ài J'indienne. I'indienne. CARRELET A L'iNDIENNE l'rNotpNr.rE -- Cut aa large cARRELET À plaice plaice into pepper and put them in into slices. Season Season with salt and pepper aa pan on ions softened in butter and on aa base base of chopped on onions softened in seasoned with curry seasoned curry powder. with curry Stew plaice with the Stew the the plaice the lid lid on. it with on. Sprinkle Sprinkle it powder, pour over it 2 dl. ({ pint, scant cup) white wine for dl. (t 750 g. (1+ lb.) Boil down down the liquor, and and cover with the liquor, lb.) fish. fish. Boil (see SAUCE), Bé(:hmnel sauce sauce (see Bichamel not too thick. Cook Cook for for a too thick. SAUCE), not further 15 minutes minutes on a low heat. Place Place the slices in a dish, cover boiled-down cover them with the boiled-down sauce to which butter little butter has been added, flavoured with aa !iule lemon juice. Serve with Rice àd l'indienne lemonjuice. I'indienne (see RICE). NIÇOISE - Make Plaice ài la Make sorne some la nigoise. CARRELET cARRTLET À A LA re Nlgotss plaice. Season light incisions in the with salt salt and and pepper. the plaice. Season with Brush it with oi! oil and grill under under a gentle heat. Put it on a serving serving dish dish on a layer of tomatoes softened softened in garlic and chopped tarragon. Laya butter, seasoned seasoned with garlic Lay a grid of anchovies anchovies on fish, and sprinkle with with capers. on top top of the fish, Surround it with and with green olives which have have been stoned and olives which blanched, or or unstoned black olives. olives. Sprinkle with chopped basil. As As well well as as the indicated above, above. see see also also those the methods indicated given for BRILL; BRILL; TURBOT; TURBOT; SOLE.

PLAISIR -- Frencb word for aa small wafer or oublie, rolled French word oublie, rolled into a cone (see OUBLIE.) OUBLIE.) PLANT AIN TREE. PLANTAIN TREE. FIGillER banana tree FrcurER D'ADAM - A type of banana (see BANANA). PLASTRON PLASTRON -- Ventral Ventral part of the shell of turtles. This part, as weil the horny well as the dorsal one, after being taken out of ofthe plate or shell, is used for making turtle soup. PLATE. PLATE. ASSIETTE AssTETTE-- Small table utensil, utensil, mostly of porcelain or china nowadays, of vdrious materials in the past. The centre of various of plate is called the 'well' and the border, which fonns forms the of the plate the the'well' band around the hollow part, is called the 'rim'. This band is the'rim'. a\so 'shoulder'. also sometimes referred referred to as the the'shoulder'. The Greeks first, tryps, were Greeks had had two types of plates: the the first, tryps, were quite large and could serve as was tryblion,was as a dish; the other, tryblion, smaller. smaller. The Romans had and gold. had plates in in pottery, glass, silver and The common people used wooden bowls. In It In the the Middle Ages, Ages, the disappeared. It the individual plate disappeared. was was replaced replaced by called aa by aa round round slice of bread bread whieh which was called 705 705

PlarE, PLATE

(l8th century) Rouen (18th century) Rouen

Old Sèvres Sdvres Old

Moustier Moustier

Moustier

(Empire period) Sdvres (Empire Sèvres period)

Old Sèvres

Wedgwood: and dessert dessert plates plates Wedgwood: Dinner Dinner and

Sdvres (Fontainebleau service) Sèvres (Fontainebleau service)

Goupy: Goupy: soup soup and and dinner dioner plates plates

Woodhouse: and side side plates plates Woodhouse: dinner, dinner, soup, soup, dessert, dessert, salad salad and SOME SOME EXAMPLES EXAMPLES OF OF OLD OLD PLATES PLATES

706

PLUM the plate; the design inspired style, armorial ins pired by the rococo style, bearings, carefully noted down. bearings, and couplets with the music music carefully Floral pieces, in fresh decorate Strasfresh and brilliant colours, decorate bourg bourg plates. Decoration of plates is in fact a very active branch of art, Decoration even in modern timestimes.

PLATINE-- French name for a smalliow PLATINE small low baking pan. PLEUROTUS -- Genus of fungi, PLEUROTUS fungi, sorne some species of which are edible and exce\lent. edible excellent. PLOMBIERE (Ice) PLOMBIÈRE (lee) -* Iced sweets (see ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND rcEs). ICES).

Greengages Greengages

plover Golden plover (14/. E. Higham) Highan) (w.

the famous famous liqueur is also also used used for which is the liqueur isis made made and and which compotes, jams and in pdtisserie) matures during the which matures compotes, pâtisserie)which fruit, medium-sized fruit, month of of August; the the ente or Agen plum, medium-sized ripens in in September in colour which which ripens September (usually pinkish violet in sold as prunes). fruit. They They All these these varieties of plums are eaten as as fresh fresh fruit. Ali compotes, jams and a large number may also be used to make compotes,jams dessert fruit. fruit. of pastry desserts. desserts. The plum is an excellent excellent dessert of pRUNEs BOURDALOUE Large greenBoTJRDALoUE - Large Bourdaloue. PRUNES Plums Bourdaloue. gages are used in this way. Proceed as for fot Apricots Bourdaloue Bourdaloue (see APRICOT). Plums in in brandy. A L'EAU-DE-VIE r'El,u-oE-vIE - Wipe Wipe sorne some Plums brandy. PRUNES IRUNES À greengages and needle. times with with aa big big needle. greengages and prick them 22 or or 33 times g. (9 Weigh Weigh the fruit. Make aa syrup syrup ofsugar of sugar in the ratio of250 of 250 g. I generous cup) sugar and 3 tablespoons tablespoons (! oz., oz., 1 $ cup) water to (220"F.). (21b.) each kg. (2 lb.) fruit, fruit, and cook to !05°e. 105"C. (220°F.). plums in it. Let them immerse the plums When When this syrup syrup is ready, immerse twice before boil twice touching with the skimmer. before touching Drain and put them in ajar. a jar. Let the syrup syrup cool completely. good quality brandy Add to brandy equal equal to to the the Add to itit aa quantity of of good quantity ofsyrup. liquid through the quantity of syrup. Strain Strain the liquid through muslin and fill the jar with it. Cork and secure well before jar secure firmly. Leave to soak weil before using.

pLUvrER PLO VER. PLUVlER PLOYER.

-- Genus of wading birds of which there are plo ver is is about about the the size are several size of a several species: species: the the great plover lapwing lapwing or peewit and, and, like like them, them, haunts marshlands and golden plover of a meadows near the sea. The golden plo ver is the size of water meadows plumage is speckled with yellow. turtle turtle dove and its plumage game and Plovers and sorne some gastPlovers are considered excellent excellent game are considered ronomes ronomes insist that undrawn. This they should be be cooked undrawn. that they tradition is an old one: in the sixteenth sixteenth century, according to Lucien Tendret, only three kinds of of birds (larks, turtle doves plovers) were roasted and plovers) 'breaking into them'. without'breaking roasted without Plover can be prepared in able for woodcock in any any way suit suitable (q.v.).

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PLUCHES -- French name name for for the leaves of certain plants, such as parsley. These leaves used as chervil and parsley. leaves are generally used raw, chervilleaves some cases chervil leaves being put into sorne some soups. In sorne the leaves are blanched boiling water. blanched in boiling PLUCK. ISSUES slaughtered rssuEs -- The lights, heart heart and entrails of slaughtered pluck animais. AL or V ARIETY MEATS, Lamb Lamb's's pluck animals. (See OFF VARIETY OFFAL àd l'anglaise). I'anglaise). giblets of The French word issues wrongly used used for the the giblets lssues is is wrongly poultry. The expression used formerly to expression issues issaes de de table was used describe the last tit-bits served at the end of ofaa great banquet. These included sweets, fruit, sweets, sugared sugared almonds, crystallised fruit, and other delicacies which went with the the sweet. sweet. Sometimes Sometimes these room next to the the in aa room the table but in these were not served at the dining-room. dining-room.

plum tree, PLUM. PLUM. PRUNE tree, of of the the family IRUNE -- Fruit Fruit of of the the plum Rosaceae. in Europe. Europe. There There is Rosaceae. It It isis cultivated cultivated evel'ywhere everywhere in an infinite variety of plum trees all produce trees in France which ail sweet-tasting the greengage these are arcthe sweet-tasting fruit. Among Among the best of of these (reine-claude) which ripens at the end of (reine-claude) of July and whose flesh (reinevoured; the golden greengage (reineis very sweet and weil well fla flavoured;the claude dorée) dorCe) which ripens towards the the end end of August; the which ripens mirabelle, colour streaked streaked with mirabelle, a small round plum, yellow in colour red, the flesh very weil the ripened at the well flavoured, which is fully ripened end the Saint violet, black, and end of August; violet, and white white damsons; the the quetsche Catherine; the yellow ;the quetsche (the fruit from which the early early yellow;

'Agen' plums 'Agen'plums

707 707

POACHING POACHING pRUNEs coNnrss plums. PRUNES Candtedplums. Preparedasasfor Candied Candied CONFITES - - Prepared for Candied (see apricots APRICOT). apricots (see APRICOT). Compote ofplums of plums-- See SeeCOMPOTE, COMPOTE, Plum Plumcompote. compote. Compote pRUNEs coNDf Plums Condé. Cond6. PRUNES greengages Largegreen are used used Plums CONDÉ - - Large gages are

freshwaterbouillabaisse. bouillabaisse.The dishisisaaspeciality specialityof Verdunfreshwater The dish ofVerdunsur-le-Doubs (where (where tbere there isisaaconfrerie confrerie dedicated dedicated totoit). it).The The sur-le-Doubs pochouse never truepochouse nevercontains contains larding larding fat fatand and must true mustcontain contain burbot. burbot. Pochouse de deVerdun-sur-le-Doubs Verdun-sur-le-Doubs - - Made Made with Pochouse withfish fishof of different kinds: pike,carp, kinds: eel, eel,pike, carp,barbel, barbel,chub chuband andbream. bream. different Cutthem them up placein upand andplace inaatinned tinned coppercauldron. Cut copper cauldron.Pour Pourinin glasswbite white Burgundy Burgundy wine, wine, covering coveringthe 1Iglass thefish. fish. pochouse requiring For aapochouse requiring about (4to about22kg. kg.(4 you to5Ib.) 5 lb.)offish, For of fish,you will need needaafair fairamount amount of garlic, 100 (aoz.) ofgarlic, 100g.g.(4 oz.)bacon bacon cut will cutinto into lardoonso thyme, thyme, bay bayleaf, leaf,enough good pinch enoughsalt pinch of saltand lardoons, andaagood of pepper. Grill Grill the the bacon. bacon. pepper. Knead 250 (9oz., 250 g.g.(9 generouscup) oz., generous cup)fresh fresh butter butter mixed Knead mixedwith with flour, for for thickening thickening the the sauce. sauce. Cook Cook for for30 45minutes. flour, 30to to45 minutes. At At first boil boil fast, fast, then then simmer simmer for for 12 12minutes, first minutes, after after the thebutter butter has has been added. added. been To serve, serve, take take tbe the chunks chunks out out one put them by one, To one,put one by them on on aa dish on on aa foundation foundation of crottons of of croûtons dish of bread bread fried fried in in butter and butter and garlic. Strain rubbed with with garlic. Strain the the sauce sauce over rubbed fish. over the the fish. Take care care not not to the chunks to stir stir the Take chunks offish offish duringcooking;just during cooking ; just shake the pan. the pan. shake Avoid cooking cooking the the hard hard roes roes of pike, barbel Avoid of pike, barbel and and chub. chub.

for this this recipe. recipe. Proceed Proceed as (see as for for Apricots ApricotsCondé Condi (see for APRTCOT). APRICOT). pRrJNEs rrArasf,Es A r,c, LonRATNE Plums flambé flambe Lorraine. Lorraine. PRUNES Plums FLAMBÉES À LA LORRAINECook ligbtly lightly inin aavaniUa vanilla syrup syrup sorne somestoned plums. stoned mirabelle mirabelle plums. Cook Draino and put them and put them in in ovenware ovenware dishes. dishes. Pour Pour over over aalittle little Drain, syrup bound bound with with arrowroot. arrowroot. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with hot hot Quetsche. Set Quetsche. Set syrup alight wben when serving. serving. alight Plum fritters fritters -- See See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. Plum Plum fritters fritters ài l'agenaise l'agenaise -- See See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. Plum Ice and and iced iced mousse plums. GLACE, mousse of of plums. MoussE GLACÉE cLAcE, MOUSSE crlcfr AUX nux Ice pRUNEs procedure as the same same procedure for Apricot asfor Apricot ice ice or or lced lced PRUNES -- FFollow ollow tbe (see ICE mousse (see ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES). ICES). mousse pRUNEs jam. CONFITURE Plum jam. coNFlruRE DE DE PRUNES g. (12 (12 oz., Allow 350 350 g. oz.,ll Plum -- Allow 11cups) sugar sugar for g. (18 (18 oz.) for 500 500 g. oz.) stoned stoned fruit. fruit. Proceed Proceed as for as for cups) (see JAMS Apricot jam (see JAMS AND AND JELLlES). JELLIES). Apricotjam pRUNEs A rl roRnuNr Plum soufflé soufl6 Lorraine. Lorraine. SOUFFLÉ sorJFFLf AUX AUx PRUNES Plum À LA LORRAINE pur6e of Prepare aa purée g. (7 (7 oz.) of 200 200 g. oz.) mirabelle plums and mirabelle plums and mix mix itit -- Prepare (9 oz., with 250 g. (9 250 g. generous cup) oz., generous cup) sugar sugar cooked cooked to to aa heavy heavy with syrup. Add Add 55 egg egg whites whites beaten to aa very beaten to very stiff stiff foam foam and and then then syrup. preserved plums, diced preserved plums, soaked plum brandy. soaked in in plum brandy. To To cook, cook, diced proceed as (see SOUFFLÉ). as for for sweet sweet soufflés souffi6s (see SOUFFLE). proceed Afsatian plum plum tart tart-- See TART, Fruit See TART, Fruit tart tart àd l'alsacienne. I'alsacienne. AJsatian pocnc,cr POACHING. Method of of cooking cooking meat, poultry, meat, poultry, POACIDNG. POCHAGE -- Metbod fish, etc., etc., in in aa clear clear spiced spiced and and flavoured flavoured stock, stock, or in water. or in watei. fish, (See CULINARY CULINARY METHODS.) METHODS.) (See pocrss -- The Poached eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEuFs pocHÉS The eggs eggs selected selected must must be be Poached poached eggs). small and and very (see EGGS, very fresh fresh (see EGGS, Poached eggs). small

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POD. COSSE cossE -- Vessel Vessel enclosing POD. enclosing certain certain leguminous leguminous seeds: pea seeds: pea pod, bean pod, etc. bean pod, etc. pod,

POtLAGE -- Method Method of POÊLAGE of cooking cooking applied applied to to various various subsubstances, which which are are cooked cooked àd l'étuvée, stances, I'dtuvie, that is, in in aa covered covered pan pan that is, polwith butter (See CULINARY butter or or other with other fat. fat. (See CULINARY METHODS, METHODS. Potroasting.) roasting.)

POCHARD. AYTHYA Ayrr{yA -- Species Species of of duck duck known known as as pochard, POCHARD. pockard (the female poker (the or poker female of which is known as dunbird). dunbird). pockard or A fully-grown pochard has male pochard has aa bright bright red red head head and and A fully-grown male neck; the back back and and breast breast partly dull black, partly partly ash-grey neck; the partly a dull with The sides sides are are similarly similarly striped; striped; the with thin thin black black stripes. stripes. Tbe lower region of the abdomen abdomen is is black, 10wer region oftbe black, the bill bill is dark blue, the culmen and the tip are are black, culmen and the tip black, the tarsus and the tbe scutes blueish and.the orange-red. The The plumage of the female female of the and. the eyes eyes orange-red. plumage of species, spring, is species, even even in in the the spring, is less less brilliant. brilliant. This of frequently nests nests in in the the marshy marshy plains plains of Tbis species species frequently Holland, and Belgium and crosses Holland, Northern Northern Germany Germany and Belgium and France France twice twice aa year year during during winter winter migrations. migrations. They are then keenly keenly pursued pursued by by sportsmen sportsmen for for the the succulence and and the distinctive distinctive taste taste of of their their flesh, flesh, which is is greatly greatly prized prized by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. All Ali the the methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for wild duck can be applied applied to to pochard pochard (see (see DUCK). DUCK).

c|fr';,|;H.o

Poêle (pan) ror for crèpes, fish and ordinary frying Po€le (Larousse)

POCHOUSE POCHOUSE -- The The pochouse pochouse (also (also written pauchose) pauchose) is a matelote matelote (q.v.) (q.v.) made made of of all kinds kinds of of freshwater freshwater fish, with witb eel predominating, predominating, which whicb should should be be cooked cooked with with white white wine wine and thickened thickened with with Kneaded Kneaded butter butter (see (see BUTTER), BUTTER), as as with with Matelo te dd la Matelote la rneuniire meunière (see (see MATELOTE). MATELOTE). Cut Cut the tbe fish fish into into uniform uniform chunks chunks and and put put into into a buttered buttered

"rdinary

POÊLON --An earthenware utensil utensil or aa pan made ofcopper POELON An earthenware of copper sorne other other metal, with a long long handle. Such aluminium or some aluminium or copper pans are are used used for cooking cooking sugar. POGNE DE ROMANS - Cake which is is a a kind kind of of sweet sweet POGNE brioche and is prepared in the following manner: manner: sift 500 500 g. g. brioche (18 (18 oz., oz., 4! 41- cups) cups) flour and and spread spread itit on the the table in aa circle. In tbe middle middle of of this circle cirde put 1| li- teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, I1 tablespoon the

saut6 sauté pan pan on on aa foundation foundation of of onions onions and and carrots carrots cut cut in in slices. slices. Season Season and and put put on on aa big big bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v) (q.v.) containing I1 clove clove of ofgarlic garlicin in the the middle, middk Pour Pour in in enough enough dry dry white white wine wine to to cover cover the the fish. fish. Bring Bring to to the the boil, boil, then then cover cover and and simmer simmer from from

orange blossom blossom water, or or I1- teaspoon teaspoon orange orange extract, 25 25 g. (l (1 orange oz.) yeast, yeast, 250 250 g. g. (9 oz., generous generous cup) softened softened butter butter and and 44 oz.)

20to25 20 to 25 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain the the pieces pieces of of fish. fish. Put Put them them into into another another saut6 sauté pan pan

Mix all ail the the ingredients ingredients well, weil, working the the dough eggs. Mix eggs. vigorously to to give give itit body. body. Add Add 22 more more eggs, eggs, one one by by one one and, and, vigorously finally, still still kneading kneading the the dough, dougb, incorporate incorporate 200 200 g. (7 oz., oz., finally, scant cup) cup) castor castor (fine) (fine) sugar sugar little !ittle by little. little. Put Put this this dough dough scant into aa small small bowl bowl sprinkled sprinkled with witb flour, flour, cover, cover, and and keep keep in aa into warm place place from from l0 10 to to 12 12 hours. bours. wann Turn out out the the dough dough on on to to aa board board and and pummel pummel itit to to arrest arrest Turn

with with diced diced bacon, bacon, mushrooms mushrooms and and small small onions. onions. Thicken Tbicken the tbe liquor liquor in in which wbich the the fish fish was was cooked cooked with with kneaded kneaded butter. butter. Strain Strainand andpour pour over overthe the fish. fisb. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments. moments. Just Just before before serving serving add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons fresh fresh cream. cream. The The word word comes cornes from from the tbe fisherman's fisherrnan's 'poche', 'poche', the the game game bag bag he he fills fills with with the the various various fish fisb that that go go to to make make up up this this 708 708

POITOU POITOU potie potée dà la tdte tête de de porc, porc, which which furnishes both a soup and the main is cut eut into into pieces and eaten main course; course; the the pig's head is vinegar. Among the sprinkled and a dash of ofvinegar. tbe fish sprinkled with sea sea salt and from Saint-Trojan; Saint-Trojau bouilleture, a eels from dishes are: dishes arc: grilled eels matelote of of eel in red wine, wine, with prunes prunes added to the garnish; garnish ; matelote of the chaudrée, aafish feature being the variety variety of chaudrie, fish stew, its main feature fish used; the cotriade, a kind of of bouillabal'sse, which is not Vendée dish dish but is is made all ail along the coast, specifically a Vend6e particularly in the canton canton of Noirmoutier. Frogs' legs àd la vinegar-flavoured soaked for for 1I hour in vinegar-flavoured luconnaise are first soaked flour, fried fried in with flour, water, then then drained, drained, dried, dried, dredged with water, noisette butter huller and served with fried cloves of garlic. noisette Among meat dishes, disbes, is the Vendiefressureiit is the pluck, Among chopped and spleen, chopped including the pig's pig's lungs, Jungs, liver, heart heart and spleen, including mixed with congealed pig's blood. The whole is then cooked with chopped fat bacon, slowly, for a long time. It is usually eaten cold. and Pâté de Paques, or Easter pie, is long, crescent shaped and P6ti and slices filled with balls of bashed hard-boiled eggs, and hashed meat, hard-boiled to get sauteed in in butter and left to of pork, chicken or rabbit, sautéed rabbit and fillets of wild wild rabbit is made made of fillets cold. The The Vendée VendCe pre is pork, forcemeat forcemeat of of the flesh mixed with an equal quantity of pork, Easter loaf or galette piquante is half cooked and chopped. chopped. Easter and sugar, eggs eggs and made with butter, butter, sugar, mixed with made of bread bread dough dough mixed orange-blossom orange-blossom water, and shaped into a cob. grecn cabcabVp.!PNllhlp. dishes include which is is green chouie, which the chouée, Vegetable include the plentyof pressed, with plenty bage boiledin salted .. water, drained u ...... ,' '.ua ....... " and pressed, of in the the cooked in French beans beans cooked mogelfes, French butter added to it; """IXr::U",~, far (or cream;; the thefar ordinary way and dressed with butter and cream vegetables, such as of different different vel~et:ables, composed of farci), which isis composed leeks, and cabbage, first cooked Swiss chard chard leaves, leaves, spinach, leeks, pressed, chopped and stewed in in salted water, then then drained, drained, pressed, for and diced bacon. Beaten for aa long time with pork fat, fat, onion onion and eggs and cream are added to the mixture. the tourteaufromagC, include the Notable sweets and pastries include paste, to cream goat cheese reduced to fine paste, to which to aa fine cream cheese or or goat egg is butter, egg quarter its flour, fine fine sugar, butter, weight of of flour, is added added aa quarter its weight It isis and flavourings. It yolks, whites froth, and into aa stiff stiff froth, whites beaten into in the the ferment, and and baked in to ferment, allowed to then put into into aa mould, allowed ('faggot'), aa circlet covered fouée ('faggot'), oyen. bread dough dough covered circlet of of bread oven. The The/ouie in aa to be be baked baked in with crea m, melted butter or which used used to oil, which or oil, cream, kind of of oreillettes oreillettes blazing bottereaux de de Langon, aa kind blazing oven; oven; hottereaux pies. The following among deep-fried plum pies. are among following are in oil, oil; and and plum deep-fried in

fermentation. Divide Divide into into 22 parts, parts, mould mould into into balls, balls, shape shape the fermentation. top (as (as in in the the case case of of ordinary ordinary brioche). brioche). Put Put the the cakes into into top another 30 30 buttered baking baking tins, tins, leave leave the the dough to to rise rise for another buttered minutes in in aa warm warm place, place, brush brush with with beaten beaten egg egg and and bake bake in a minutes It can can be be moderate oven oyen (the pogne can be be eaten eaten hot hot or or cold). cold). It moderate jelly. served with with redcurrant reclcurracntjell served

POISSONNIER -- Chef Chef of of an an important important restaurant restaurant who who is in POISSONNIER of all ail fish fish dishes, dishes, with the the exception of of fried or or grilled charge of charge of the the rdtisseur rôtisseur or the grillardin. fish, which which are are the the domain domain of fish, a1so means means fishmonger. Poissonnier also Poissonnier

POITOU

The Poitou Poitou gastronomic gastronomie folklore folklore - The

extends to extends

départements (Vend6e, (Vendée, Vienne, Deux-Sdvres, Deux-Sèvres, MaineMaineseveral dipartements several The culinary specialities specialities are in fact local dishes, as as et-Loire). The et-Loire). are everywhere, everywhere, varying varying in detail according to tastes in they are

places. different places. The cattle cattle raised raised in in Parthenay Parthenay and and Bressuire Bressuire provide provide The is of of good good quality quality and the pork, pork, owing owing excellent meat, meat, mutton mutton is excellent is of of excellent excellent flavour. flavour. the good pig food, is to the of birds: turkeys, produces aa whole range range of Poultry farming produces guinea fowl, and in the cantons of Chefcapons, table fowl, guinea Boutonne and and Sauzé-Vaussay ducks are for the raised for are raised Boutonne Sauz6-Vaussay ducks of foie foie gras. Civray pâte de foie gras gras is famous; production of Civray pdte de foie de canard canard are also made here. confits de are also is of high repute, as as weil well as as winged game Ground game is woodcock, snipe, quail, rail and field-ducks) and (partridges, woodcock, waterfowl abounds abounds here. waterfowl Coastal parts of fish. Aimost Almost excellent fish. Vend6e abound in excellent of Vendée Portuguese oysters there. The Portuguese every kind of shellfish is found there. _,"T"_. ___.I.._ and the Aiguilfrom the the mussels mussels from of Tranche Groin-du-Cou, the and Groin-du-Cou, Ion mussel lobsters of the island of Yeu lon mussel farms and and the spiny lobsters are provide aa Ereat variety of The rivers rivers provide are greatly prized. The freshwater fish, the brooks and streams furnish crayfish and the eels and and frogs. the marshes marshes abound in eels The of produces an an abundance abundance of The land of is fertile and and produces of Poitou is onions, articbokes, peas, Marac haricot beans, Niort artichokes, garden peas, cauliflowers and green cabbages. cabbages. Vend6e green and Vendée The produces choice choice The wooded wooded district north-west of Poitou produces chestnuts Vienne equally good walnuts. chestnuts and and Vienne La Mothe Mothe are La district are made in in this this district Among the the cheeses cheeses made chabichou, Goat cheese, cheese, Vienne chabichou, Saint-H6raye, Saint-Loup, Saint-Loup, Goal etc. good. is good. etc. Local butter, Charente, Charente, is Culinary is local dishes dishes is Among the the typical typical local Culinary specialities specialities -- Among

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POIVRADE POIVRADE noted local products: Mon local products: Montmorillon macaroons and andbiscuits; biscuits; noted tmorillon macaroons Lusignan melusines melusines and and macaroons; macaroons;Parthenay Parthenay biscuits; biscuits; Lusignan Chatellerault caramels car ame ls; ;Niort Niort angelica. angelica. Chatellerault Wines -- Poitou Poitou offers offersaa selection selection of ofexcellent excellent non-vintage non-vintage Wines local wines. wines. The The angelica angelica liqueur liqueur of Niortisisvery of Niort very weil wellknown. known. local POMADE. Method Method of preparingcertain of preparing certain meats, meats, mainly mainly POIVRADE. ground game. game. (See (SeeSAUCE, SAUCE, Pepper poivrade sauce). Pepperor or poivrade sauce\. ground The name name also young artichokes alsoapplies applies to tosmall small young artichokeswhich which are are The eaten à(i la la croque-au-sel (with salt croque-au-sel (with salt as as the the only only accompaniaccompanieaten ment). ment).

theDordogne. ofthe Dordogne. Production Production isislimited limitedtotovigorous, vigorous,aromatic aromatic of redwines winesof ofoutstanding quality and outstandingquality andexcellent excellent bouquet. bouquet. red

POMFRET. BRÈME sRtrffiDE DEMER (Bramabrama) MER- - Fish Fish (Brama POMFRET. brama)which whichisis also known known asasRay's .Ray'sbream breamand andsea seabream, bream,and foundininthe also and isisfound the pomfretisisalso North Atlantic Atlantic and andPacific PacificOceans. Oceans.Pomfret alsothe thename name North offiat flatfish fishfound found ininthe theIndian Indian Ocean. Ocean. of

POMMARD -- This This wine, produced ininthe wine,which which isisproduced POMMARD little thelittle commune of (C6tede ofCôte-d'Or C6te-d'Or(Côte deBeaune), Beaune), isisc\assed classedamong commune among the finest growthsof finest growths ofBurgundy Burgundy wines. wines. the

POMON -- French French common common name name for for red pepper or red pepper or POIVRON pimento. pimento.

POMME DE DE PIN PIN-_See SeeRESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF POMME OFBYGONE BYGONE DAYS. DAYS.

POLAI\D POLAND

See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. See POLENTA Piedmont form (corn) of maize porridge. meal POLENTA - Piedmont form of maize (corn) meal porridge.

It isis made made of flour dried of maize maize f10ur dried in in the the open open and not in in the and not the oyen, oven, It gaudes (hast (hasty as for for gaudes puddings). ItIt can can also also be be made made of of y puddings). as chestnut f1our, flour. as as is is do done in Corsica. Corsica. chestnut ne in Polenta isis used garnish for used as garden warblers as aa garnish for garden warblers and and other other Polenta similar small small birds; birds; this this isis aa traditional traditional north north Italian Italian dish dish and and similar great favourite was aa great favourite of of Napoleon Napoleon 1.I. was To cook polenta. Bring cook polenta. Bring 1I litre pints, generous generous quart) litre (1(l|i pints, quart) To water to to the the boil, boil, add add salt, salt, allowing allowing 2-! per litre. 2j teaspoons teaspoons per litre. water (9 oz.) Sprinkle in g. (9 in 250 250 g. gradually, stirring oz.) maize maize f10ur flour gradually, with aa stirring with Sprinkle wooden spoon. Cook Cook from from 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Add, Add, for for the the wood en spoon. above quantity quantity of polenta, about of polenta, (2loz., about 65 g. (2-! 65 g. tablespoons) above oz., 55 tablespoons) (3 oz., butter and g. (3 and 75 grated Parmesan 75 g. oz.,*î cup) cup) grated Parmesan cheese. cheese. butter polenta on Spread the the polenta on aa moistened moistened baking baking tray tray in in an an even even Spread layer. Wh When cold, cut cut into into square square or lozenge-shaped pieces. pieces. or lozenge-shaped en cold, layer. pieces golden Fry these golden brown these pieces brown in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish dish Fry and sprinkle grated chee sprinkle with (see with grated cheese and Noisette Noisette butter butter (see and se and BUTTER). BUTTER). Polenta can can be garnish for be used used as as aa garnish for various various meat and fish fish Polenta dishes. dishes. Polenta fritters -- See See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. Polenta fritters Thrushes or or otber other smaU polenta. GRIVES small birds birds with with polenta. cRrvEs À A LA LA Thrushes FoLENTA -' Prepare with cheese as as described above. above. POLENTA Prepare polenta polenta with Pour oven-proof dish, spreading spreading it in in aalayer Pour itit into into aa buttered buttered oven-proof layer thick. 33 cm. cm. (llinches) (1 inches) thick. With aid of of aa spoon dipped in as man manyy With the the aid in water indent as 'nests' (or other are thrushes thrushes (or other birds). 'nests' as as there there are birds). Sprinkle with grated oven and put one in in grated cheese. cheese. Half Half roast roast the the birds in the oyen each Sprinkle with butter and each little little cavity. cavity. Sprinkle with a a little !ittle melted butter finish with white finish cooking cooking in in the the oven. oyen. Dilute Dilute the pan pan juices juices with wine and pour pour round round the the dish. dish. wine and

POMPE or (Provence cake) orGIBASSIER GIBASSIER(Provence Traditionalcake cake)-- Traditional POMPE cake eaten in in Provence Provence at gros soupa at the thegros soupa on eaten onChristmas Christmas Eve. Eve.ItIt isis also called gibassier ('gibbous'), ('gibbous'), because called gibassier becauseof also of the the lumps lumps on its on its surface. surface. gros soupa The gros soupa isis the the meal precedes the meal which which precedes The the midnight midnight mass. As As the the fast fast entails entails abstinence abstinence from mass. from meat, meat, the the meal meal invariably consists consists of of Lenten Lenten dishes, dishes, such invariably ascod cod en such as e nrayte rayte or en oren brandade and and cardoons cardoons in incream. cream. brandade 'The dessert dessert isis by by no no means means the 'The the least least attraction attraction of of this this traditional meal and and consists consists mainly tradition al meal mainly of\ocally of locally manufactured manufactured nougat, dates, dates, and and -- above above ail pompe or nougat, all -- the gibassier, the pompe or gibassier, another local product, the local product, the whole whole washed another washed down down liberally liberatly with with the customary customary muUed mulled wine. wine. the 'Here isis the the recipe recipe for for this 'Here this cake: cake: 'Ingredients. 500 (18 oz.) g. (18 500 g. 'Ingredients. g. (18 (18 oz.) bread bread dough dough leaven, leaven, 500 500 g. oz.,2l cups) brown brown sugar, sugar, 22ke.(4f-1b.) oz., 2* cups) kg. (4 lb.) f1our, (6 flour, 66 eggs, eggs, 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant i* cup) cup) best best oil tablespoons, oil and grated rind and finely finely grated rind of of 1I lemon and and 1I orange. orange. lemon 'Method. Spread Spread the the f10ur 'Method. flour on on aa board board in in aa circle, circle. make make aa well in in the the middle put into middle and and put weil into itit the the leaven leaven with with the the brown brown sugar, oil oil and and half half the the eggs. sugar, eggs. Mix Mix weil, well, incorporating incorporating the the f10ur flour little by by little. little. Knead Knead the little the dough dough weil well and and add add the the rest rest of of the the eggs one one by by one. one. This eggs This dough dough should quite soft. should be be quite soft. 'Leave to to ririse 'Leave se for for about about 66 hours hours in in aa warm warm temperature, temperature, then beat beat itit out, out, divide then divide into pieces of into pieces g. (7 (7 oz.), of about about 200 200 g. oz.), shape into into crowns crowns and put on shape and put on boards boards sprinkled sprinkled with with fine fine bran. 'Keep in in aa warm place, as as the the dough dough takes aa long long time time to to . nse. rise. in aa lively lively oyen. 'Bake in oven. When ready, ready, take out of of the take out the oyen oven and moisten the surface surface of each cake with aa cloth dipped dipped in in aa mixture ofwater of water and orange-blossom mixture (A. Caillat.) orange-blossom water.' water.'(A. Caillat.)

POLONAISE dishes. POLONAISE (A (A LA) LA) - Method Method of of preparing preparing certain dishes. (See (See ASPARAGUS, ASPARAGUS, CAULIFLOWER.) CAULIFLOWER.)

POMPONNETTES POMPONNETTES -- Small Small preparations served served as as horshorsd'œuvre. Hot d' euvre. (See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, HORS-D' (EUVRE, H o t hors-d'œuvre.) hor s -d' euv re. )

POLYPODIUM. POLYPODIUM. polypoor POLYPODE -- A A species species of of edible ferns. ferns. See

PONT-L'EVtQUE PONT-L'ÉVÈQUE -- See CHEESE.

t

FERN. FERN.

POLYPORUS. POLYPORUS. porypone POLYPORE

A very very big big -- A

PONT-NEUF (P$tisserie) -- Line buttered tartlet tins PONT-NEUF (pâtisserie) tins with Puff pastry (see DOUGH). Fill with Frangipane Frangipane cream (see Puff (see CREAM) mixed mixed with with crushed macaroons. Put Put 22 thin strips CREAM) crushed macaroons. strips of puff pastry pastry criss-cross criss-cross fashion fashion on on each tartlet. Bake each tartlet. Bake in in aa moderate oven. oyen. When When ready, ready, temove remove from oyen moderate oven and sprinkle

species of of fungi

(reaching (reaching aa weight weight of of up up to 40 40 pounds), pounds), growing growing generally at the the foot foot of of old old oak oak trees trees and and on on the the ground. ground. These giant giant mushrooms mushrooms are are edible edible but but the the flesh f1esh is is rather rather tough. tough. They They are

found found mainly mainly in in Germany, Germany, Hungary, Hungary, Italy Italy and more more rarely, rarely,

with fine sugar. with

in France. in France.

POPE. cRTMTLLE GREMILLEFish of of the the perch perch family, family, sometimes sometimes called POPE. - Fish freshwater fish fish found in most most of the the rivers rivers of of ruff. It is a freshwater

POMEGRANATE. POMEGRANATE. cRENADE GRENADE -- Fruit Fruit of of the the common common pomegranate pomegranate tree tree which which is is believed believed to to be be of of North North African African origin. origin. ItIt isis used used widely widely in in France. France. Pomegranates Pomegranates can can be be eaten eaten raw raw like like other other fruit, fruit, but but generally juice only juice the generally itit isis the thejuice only which which isis used. used. From From this thisjuice the popular popular grenadine grenadine syrup syrup is is made. made. pomegranates Pomegranates are are also also used used in in the the preparation preparation of ofices ices and and jellies. jellies. AA type type of of alcoholic alcoholic drink drink isis also also made made from from this this fruit. fruit.

fiffi

POMEROL POMEROL -- Appellation Appellation contrillie contrôlée vineyard vineyard of ofthe the Gironde Gironde situated situated in in the the commune commune of ofthe the same same name name on on the the right right bank bank

Pope Pope

710 710

PORK PORK. poRc PORC -- Domestic Domestic pachyderm which is is not not usually referred to by this slaugbter. The The male is is tbis name until after slaughter. called called a boar, the female female a sow, the the castrated castrated animal is is called called fig or stag and the young animal animal is called piglet, piglet, porker porker or or sucking sucking pig. Pork Pork is fat and firm and has more red meat than white. It It only colour when only acquires acquîres this this colour when the the animal animal is is killed killed by by (16 per complete bleeding. It It is lacking lacking in in albuminoids albuminoids (16 per cent cent only) only) and is particularly indigestible because because itit contains contains such a high proportion nrr'nr' .. h ..... n of fats. For this reason pork is taboo for sufferers of hepatitis and is not recommended for hepatitis and for persons persons with intestinal poor digestions. digestions. intestinal troubles or poor principal breeds There are There are three three principal breeds of of pig pig which which have produced produced the the many many species which which exist in Europe: the Asiatic, Neapolitan Celtic. Neapolitan and Cel tic. has The Asiatic breed, with small straight, pointed ears, has The breed, witb ofsoft and been used for crosscross-breeding, breeding, as it produced n"'''I1111('",,
mn. inch) thick mm. (* (~inch) thick (see (see CHATOUtl.rAno;.CHATOUILLARD).

Cook Cook like like Soulfli potaloes (see (see below). below). Drain, Drain, season, season, and arrange around grilled meat. meat. Potatoes copeaux. poMMEs POMMES FRrrEs FRITES copE,lux COPEAUX - Like Like ChatouilCha/oui/lard potatoes but cut eut into into irregular irregular ribbons. ribbons. Crainquebille potatoes. poMMEs POMMES DE DE rERRE 'rERRE cRATNeT.JEBTLLE CRAINQUEB1LLEPut some big, long, peeled potatoes into into aa saut6 sauté pan on aa foundation in butter. butter. Pour Pour in enough enough foundation of chopped onion onion fried in stock stock to to cover cover the the potatoes potatoes half-way. half-way. Season .) with bouquet garni garni (q.v (q.\'.) Scason with with salt salt and and pepper, add add aa bouquet 11 clove c10ve of of garlic garlic added to to it, place place on on each each potato po tata I1 slice slice seeded tomato and and sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melled butter. buller. Bring Bring to to the the seeded tomato

boil in the the oven. oven. A A few few moments moments boil on on the the stove, slove, then then cook cook in before out of of the the oven, oven, sprinkle sprinkle with with white white breadbreadbefore taking taking out

crumbs and brown brown the the top. 10p. crumbs and Potatoes Potatoesiàla la Crecy, Crécy, also a.lsocaled called iil lala Vichy. Vichy. FoMMEs POMMESDE DE TERRE TERRE AÀr,l LA cnfcv, cRÉCY, AÀr,c, LA ucuy VlCHY -- Prepare like like Anna Annapotatoes,putting po/aloes, aa layer layer of of Canots CarrolS dri Ia la Vichy Vichy (see CARROTS) CARROTS) between between each layer ofpotato. ofpotato. Potatoes iàlalacrdme. crème.poMMEs POMMESDE DETERRE TERREi,ÀLA LA cRiME CRÈME-- Boil Boil the the potatoes in in water, water, peel peel them them when when cooked, cooked, cut eut into into thick thick slices and put into into aa saut6 sauté pan. pan. Cover Cover with with boiling boiling milk milk or or and put boiling boilîngfresh fresh cream. cream. Cook Cook briskly brîskly until until the theliquid liquid isisreduced. reduced. Season and grated grated nutmeg. nUlmeg. Add Add aa few few Scason with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and tablespoons tablespoollsfresh [reshcream. cream. Potato Potato curly curly crisps (U.S. chips). chips). FoMMEs POMMES FRrrEs FRITES CoLLERETTES COLLERETTES -- Like Like Fried potatoes potaLOes (potato (potato crispsl crisps) (see (see below), but cut cutwith wÏlh aa fluted fluted cutter. cutter. below), but 724 724

POTATOES POTATOES the the dish dish and and form form aa lining lining layer layer It inch inch thick. thick. Fill Fill the the inner inner mould Cook in in the the oven oyen like like Annette Annette mould with with deep-frying deep-frying fat. fat. Cook potatoes. potatoes. When When itit isis cooked, cooked, remove remove the the inner inner mould, mou Id, press press down down the the potatoes brown the the inside inside part part lightly. lightly. potatoes with with aa fork fork and and brown in the as indicated fill and a dish to on Turn Turn out out carefully carefully on to a dish ahd fill as indicated in the recipe. recipe. They They can can be be made made without without the the inside inside mould, mou Id, by by pressing pressing the half cooked, cooked, against against the the sides sides of of the the dish. dish. the potatoes, potatoes, when when half DAUPHINE TERRE DE PoMMEs potatoes. Dauphine Dauphine potatoes. POMMES DE TERRE DAUPHINE -- Mix Mix weight Ducheis potattaes Duchess potatoes (see (see below) below) with with one-third one-third their their weight of of unsweetened unsweetened common common Chou Chou paste pas te (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Leave Leave until until cold. or 50-g. 50-g. (about (about lloz.) 1t-oz.) pieces. pieces. Shape Shape into into cold. Divide Divide into into 4040- or balls, hot deep deep fat. fat. balls, roll roll in in flour flour and and fry fry in in very very hot on a heap in Drain, and arrange arrange in a heap on aa Drain, dry, dry, sprinkle sprinkle with with salt salt and in as indicated plate or in in aa potato potato nest. nest. Or Or use use as as aa garnish, garnish, as indicated in plate or the the recipe. recipe. They shapes. They different shapes. can be These These potatoes potatoes can be moulded moulded into into difTerent deepand breadcrumbs egg and dipped in can can also also be be dipped in egg breadcrumbs before before deepfrying. frying.

Potato Potato croquettes croquettes (Larousse) (Larousse)

Potato croquettes. croquettes. cRoQUETTES CROQUETTES DE DE PoMMES POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE Potato Divide Ducheis Duchesspotato potato (seebelow) (see below) into into small sm aIl (40(40- to to 50-g., 50-g., l|' 1 Divide to 2-oz.) 2-oz.) pieces. pieces. Mould into the the shape shape of of corks or or other other to rolling them them in flour. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs shapes, rolling and fry in in very very hot hot deep deep fat. Use as indicated indicated in the the recipe. and Potato croquettes croquettes Chevreuse. CRoQ{JETTES CROQUETTES DE DE PoMMES POMMES DE DE Potato above, adding chopped chopped chervil chervil to the TERRE cITEvREUsE CHEVREUSE - As above, TERRE potato mixture. mixture. duchess potato duchess Potato croquettes croquettes ià la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. cRoQUETTES CROQUETTES DE PoMMES POMMES DE DE Potato TERRE A À rl LA rvoNNAIsE LYONNAISE -- As above, above, adding chopped onion rERRE Iightly fried in butter and the duchess and chopped parsley to the lightly potato mixture. mixture. potato PoMMES DE POMMES cRoQUErrEs DE Potato croquettes ià la parmesane. CROQUETTES Potato grated adding grated above, adding À LA LA PARMESANE As above, DE TERRE nARMEsANE -- As DE TERRE A potato mixture. mixture' Parmesan duchess potato Parmesan cheese to the duchess PoMMES perigourdine. CROQUETTES Potato croquettes ài la périgourdine. cnoQuETTEs DE POMMES pfnlcouRDINE -- As chopped As above, above, adding chopped DE DE TERRE TERRE À rc, LA LA PÉRIGOURDINE truffles to the duchess duchess potato mixture. DE cRousrADEs DE (hors-d'cuwe or entrée). entr6e). CROUSTADES Potato croustades (hors-d'œuvre

t-

POMMES FOMMES DE TERRE TERRE_

2] of 2t (see below) to to aa thickness thickness of 1. 1. Roll Roll out ottt Duchess Duchess potato (see cm. or 66 cm. circles 55 or out circles cm. (1 (1 inch) and pastry-cutter cut cut out with aa pastry-cutter and with (about (about 2iin diameter. diameter. 2t inches) in in each each middle in Dip the middle Mark the breadcrumbs. Mark Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs. penetrate pressing in in to to penetrate circlet pastry-cutter, pressing with aa smaller smaller pastry-cutter, circlet with only thickness. circlet's thickness. of the the circlet's only one-third one-third of small the small remove the Fry cloth, remove Drain on on aa cloth, fat. Drain in very very hot hot deep deep fat. Fry in without the croustades croustades without circle hollow out out the and hollow lid and forming the the lid circle forming breaking recipe. in the the recipe. indicated in Fill as as indicated them. Fill breaking them. or asas aa hors-d'euvre or These hot hors-d'œuvre as hot are used used as These croustades croustades are garnish fish. poultry and and fish. garnish for for meat, meat, poultry with tins with 2.2. Line brioche tins fluted, brioche well-buttered, f1uted, Line sorne some wel1-buttered, duchess layer ofpurée. of pur6e. in aa layer potato mixture. Put in mixture. Put duchess potato cook andcook eggand Brush the inside beatenegg with beaten croustades with of the the croustades Brushlhe inside of the brush the tins, brush golden the tins, of the out of carefully out golden in Turn carefully in the the oyen. oven. Turn few for aa few outside put inin the oven for the oyen and put egg and with beaten beaten egg outside with as usesas moments. me uses Thesa same recipe.The in the the recipe. indicated in Fill asas indicated moments. Fil! above. above. dish buttereddish 3.3. Mould round, buttered potato mixture onaaround, mixture on duchess potato Mould duchess tocontain contain in enough to deep enough uoustade deep obtain aacroustade in such suchaaway way as asto toobtain the indicated. the filling filling indicated. Decorate through aa piping sorne mixture through some mixture by piping edges by Decorate the the edges forcing recipe. the recipe. indicated ininthe Fill asasindicated forcing bag. bag. Fill These on depending on small depending large or orsmall bemade madelarge canbe croustades can Thesecroustades the usedasasaa Theyare areused intended.They areintended. theyare finaluse usefor forwhich which they the final pieces foundation smallpieces poultry, fish, served ininsmall fish,etc., etc.,served for meat, meat, poultry, foundation for and sauce. byaasauce. andaccompanied accompanied by (asdescribed 4.4.Shred the describedininthe strips(as int oiuliennestrips potatoes intojulienne Shredthe thepotatoes recipe with dishwith well-buttereddish lineaawell-buttered potatoes) and and!ine forAnnette recipefor Annettepotatoes) them. them. (rather InInthe form(rather putaacast ironform castiron potatoesput thepotatoes middleof ofthe therniddle like outside. onthe theoutside. butteredon layer-cake tin), tin),buttered likeaalayer-cake Press goup of sidesof thesides potatoesgo upthe thepotatoes makethe hardon onthis thistotomake Presshard

dauphinoise Potatoes àdlala dauphinoise Potatoes (Claire\ (Claire)

pommes ài la la depommes Gratin de called Gratin also caUed la dauphinoise, dauphinoise, also Potatoes ài la Potatoes (18 poMMEs DE Slice500 500g.g.(18 DAUPHINoIsr -- Slice rERRE DAUPIDNOISE DETERRE dauphinoise. POMMES dauphinoise. with moisten with andmoisten putthem inaabowl bowl and them in finely, put potatoes very very finely, oz.) potatoes oz.) it. toit. egg addedto beateneggadded with aabeaten milk with boiledmilk 1| cups) boiled dl.(tpint, 33dl. $ pint, l-i-cups) Add 50 50g.g.(2(2 gratednutmeg. nutmeg. Add pepper and andgrated with salt, salt,pepper Season with Season an into an Put into mix. Put andmix. cheeseand grated Gruyère Gruyire cheese cup)grated oz., t+cup) oz., garlic. withgarIic. rubbedwith and rubbed butteredand dish, buttered earthenware dish, earthenware 25g.g.(1(l oz., oz',2 scatter 25 cheese,scatter grated Gruyère Gruydrecheese, withgrated Sprinkle with Sprinkle 2 edges wipethe theedges top,wipe thetop, piecesover overthe tinypieces butter inintiny tablespoons) butter tablespoons) 45minutes. minutes. for45 ovenfor slowoyen bake ininaaslow andbake dishcarefully carefully and ofthe thedish of 500g.g. Cut500 DUcHEssE - -Cut DETERRE TERRE DUCHESSE potatoes. POMMES PoMMEs DE Duchess potatoes. Ducbess quarters. Boil Boil orquarters. slicesor potatoes into intothick thickslices (18oz.) peeled potatoes oz.)peeled (18 few foraafew ovenfor putininthe theoyen Drain,put water.Drain, saltedwater. briskly ininsalted thembriskly them rubthrough througha a andrub moisture,and excessive moisture, evaporate excessive moments totoevaporate moments sieve. sieve. moments' foraafew fewmoments, dryotT offfor saucepan, pur6einto intoaasauce Putthe thepurée Put pan, dry season butter,season oz.)butter, Add5050g.g.(2(2oz.) spoon.Add wooden spoon. witha awooden turning with turning whole witha awhole gratednutmeg, bindwith nutmeg, bind littlegrated pepperand andaalittle withsalt, salt,pepper with metal butteredmet pur6eon ona abuttered thepurée yolksand Spread the mix.Spread andmix. eggand and22yolks egg al recipe. therecipe. indicatedininthe shapeasasindicated andshape cold,and untilcold, sheet,leave leaveuntil sheet, piped borders totobebepiped forborders intendedfor mixtureisisintended Whenthis thismixture When not thennot stillhot. hot.ItItisisthen whilestill usedwhile forcing-bag,ititisisused through a aforcing-bag, through served croquettes,orortotobebeserved forcroquettes, intendedfor whenititisisintended thickasaswhen sosothick proper. potatoes proper. duchesspotatoes asasduchess rERREDUCHESSE DUcHESSE- garnish.POMMES DETERRE PoMMESDE potatoesfor forgarnish. Duchesspotatoes Ducbess 725 725

POTATOES POTATOES These potatoes are prepared from potato purie described These potatoes are prepared from Potata purée described below, moulded by hand into various shapes, or forced below, moulded by hand into various shapes, or forced through a bag on to a buttered baking sheet. through a bag on to a buttered baking sheet. As soon as the pur6e has been piped through, brush with As soon as the purée has been piped through, brush with beaten egg and put in the oven to brown. Use as indicated in beaten egg and put in the oven to brown. Use as indicated in the recipe. the recipe. Potatoes with fennel. poMMEs DE TERRE AU FENourL Like Potatoes with fenne!. POMMES DE TERRE AU FENOUIL - -Like Potatoes with basil replacing the basil by fresh chopped Potatoes with basil replacing the basil by fresh chopped fennel. fenne!. Potato fondantes. poMMES DE TERRE FoNDANTES Cut the Potato fondantes. POMMES DE TERRE FONDANTES - - Cut the potatoes to uniform size to look like small eggs. put them into potatoes to uniform size to look like sm ail eggs. Put them into a buttered saut6 pan, cover and cook gently on the top ofthe a buttered sauté pan, cover and cook gently on the top of the stove. Turn them them carefully, carefully, one one atat aa time, time, once onceduring during stove. Turn cooking. They should be golden on the outside and verv sofi cooking. They should be golden on the outside and very soft inside when cooked. inside when cooked. They can also be prepared as follows: They can also be prepared as follows: Cook the potatoes, cut as described, in lard. When they are the potatoes, cut as described, in lard. When they are - Cook done, drain off the lard and replace it by butter. done, drain off the lard and replace it by butter.

poMMEsFRITES Friedpotatoes potatoespont-neuf. poNr-New- -Cut pont-neuf.POMMES FRrrEsPONT-NEUF Fried Cut potatoesinto thepotatoes pieces1 Icm. intopieces cm.(~(]inch) inch)thick thickand and6 6toto7 7cm. the cm. (about2~2jinches) inches)long. long.Fry Fryininboiling boilingfat. fat. (about

Potato fritters: garnished with fritters: scallops scallops garnished Potato with duchess potatoes duchess potatoes

fritters -- See Potato fritters See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. potatoes, also potatoes ài la Gastronome potatoes, also called called potatoes la Cussy Cussy _Gastronome (Plumerey's recipe). poMMEs DE poMMEs recipe). POMMES (Plumerey's DE TERRE TERRE GASTRONOME, GAsrRoNoME, POMMES DE TERRE TERRE CUSSY cussy -- 'Take 'Take big yellow potatoes, DE potatoes, cut cut off off the the two two them with aa special lied in ends, and cut them (called special cutter (ca in French, French, aa colonne) into cork-shaped chunks, about (l inch) about 2~ 2) cm. cm. (1 inch) in in Cut them into slices diameter. Cut slices S 5 mm. mm. (t thick, putting $ inch) thick, them into water as you cut them. them. Dry on aa cloth to absorb ail all water. into aa big pan pan with 'Put them them into g. (8 (8 oz., with 22S 225 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) hot hot clarified clarified butter, so that they cook gently, colouring without sticking sticking to the pan or drying drying up. In the meantime, slice slice 6 6 or 8 8 truffles, toss butter with I1 tablespoon toss them them in butter tablespoon of Madeira and jelly the size of a piece piece of of chicken chickenjelly ofaa walnut. When When the potatoes are cooked and acquire a fine golden colour, col our, remove them from the the fire, add the truffles and the the juice of {~ lemon and serve serve piping pi ping hot. hot. 'We 'We owe owe this this side side dish dish to to the the late late Monsieur Monsieur de de Cussy, Cussy, aa fine fine gourmet gourmet and and former former administrator administrator of of Napoleon's Na poleon's palace.' palace.' This This method method of of preparing preparing potatoes potatoes is is somewhat somewhat similar similar to to the the one one called called 'd 'à Ia la scarlandaise'. scarlandaise'. Potatoes Potatoes Georgette. Georgette. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRT TERRE cEoRGETTE GEORGETTE - These - These are are principally principally served served as as aa hot hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. Choose Choose mediummediumand cut cut aa circle circle on on one one side' side' sized potatoes, potatoes, bake bake in in the the oven oven and sized Through this this opening opening scoop scoop out out three-quarters three-quarters of ofthe the pulp. pulp. Through While hot fill fill them them with with Crayfuh Crayfish tail tail ragofrt ragoût dà la la Nantia Nantua While still still hot (see (see CRAYFISH). CRA YFISH). Heat Heat the the potatoes potatoes in in the the oven oven and and serve. serve. POMMES DE DE rERR_E TERRE GRTLLEEs GRILLEES - Choose big, Grilled potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs Grilled - Choose big, long long potatoes potatoes and and cut cut them them lengthways lengthways into into slices slices t| I~ cm. cm. (| (~ inch) thick. thick. Parboil Parboil them them in in salted salted boiling boiling watei water for for 44 inch) minutes. Drain Drain and and dry dry on on aa cloth. clotho Brush Brush with with oil oil or ormelted minutes. melted butter. Cook Cook under under aa low low grill. gril!. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish dish and and top top butter.

Sliced potatoes should be dried in Sliced potatoes should be dried in a cloth before fryng(Claire) a cloth before frying (Claire)

Fried Fried potatoes. potatoes. poMMES POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE FRTTES FRITES - This This is the most popular Ifthe popular form form ofpotatoes ofpotatoes eaten, eaten, also also the the least least digestible. digestible. If the frying is carried carried out out correctly, correctly, at at the the right right temperature, the frying is potatoes and easier potatoes should should be be crisp, crisp, very very pleasant pleasant to to the the taste and to badly done, done, the the potatoes potatoes are are impregnated impregnated with with fat to digest; digest; ififbadly and and become become indigestible. indigestible. They They are are immersed immersed in in deep deep cooking cooking fat fat or or oil, oil, at at a temperature of 180"C. 180°C. (356"F.), (3S6°F.), when when the the fat fat is is beginning beginning to temperature of sm9k9 at once once to to 160"C. 160°C. (tZb'f.1ttren (320°F.) then smoke. This This temperature temperature falls falls at to ISO°C. (302"F.) (302°F.) when when fresh fresh cold cold potatoes potatoes are are put put in in so so the the to 150'C. fat must The potatoes potatoes should should acquir! acquire aa fat must be be reheated reheated each each time. time. The golden golden colour. col our. IfIfcut cut very very finely finely (straw (straw potatoes), potatoes), and and immersed immersed in in special special ^ fat five minutes' minutes' cooking cooking time time fat heated heated to to 190'C. 190°C. (374.F.\, (374°F.), in in five the temperature the temperature of ofthe the fat fat will will fall fall to to only only 177"C. In°c. (350.F.). (3S0°F.). Under Under the the entry entry DEEP-FRYING DEEP-FRYING all a1l instructions instructions relative relative to the fat ofthe fat inin which which the the potatoes potatoes are are cooked cooked tothe theclarification clarificationof are are given, given, as as well weil as as all ail information information dealing dealing with with utensils, utensils, pans, pans,etc., etc., which which are areused used for fordeep-frying. deep-frying. Fried POMMES FRrrEs FRITES Friedpotatoes, potatoes,or orpotato potatocrisps crisps(U.S. (U.S. chips). chips). poMMEs cI{Ip, CHIP, EN EN LTARDS LIARDS -- Cut Cut the the potatoes potatoes into into the the shape shape of of corks corks then Soakinincold cold water water for for i0 10 minutes. minutes. theninto intovery verythin thin slices. slices. Soak Drain, onaacloth clothand andfry fry ininvery veryhot hotdeep deepfat. fat. Drain Drain and and Drain,dry dryon season. season. These These potatoes potatoes are are often often used used as as an an accompaniment accompaniment to to roast roastgame gamedàI'anglaise. l'anglaise. 726 726

POTATOES POTATOES Potatoes Potatoes Mont-Dore. Mont-Dore. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRI TERRE MoNT-DoRE MONT-DORE -Prepare Prepare creamy creamy mashed mashed potatoes potatoes mixed mixed with with grated grated cheese, cheese,

with half-melted half-melted Maitre Maîlre d'hdtel d'hôlel butter buller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, ComComwith pound butters). bUllers). pound Hashed browned browned potatoes potatoes (Anerican (American cookery). cookery). poMMEs POMMES DE DE Hashed TERRE rrlctcps HACHÉES BRUNES BRUNES A À t'luBrrc.lrr.rn L'AMERICAlNE -- Boil Boil the the potatoes potatoes in in TERRE salted water, water, drain drain well weil and and chop chop up. up. salted Fry them them in in butter butter in in aa frying frying pan, pan, browning browning well. weil. Season Season Fry and pepper. pepper. Give Give them them the the shape shape of of aa turnover turnover and and with salt salt and with

heap heap in in aa dome in in aa buttered buttered fireproof fireproof dish, dish, sprinkle with with grated pour on some sorne melted melted butter butter and and brown. brown. grated cheese, cheese, pour Potatoes Potatoes mousseline. mousseline. poMMES POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE MoUssELINE MOUSSELINE -- Bake Bake the pulp and and rub rub itit through through aa sieve. sieve. Stir Stir the the the potatoes, potatoes, remove remove pulp pulp pulp in in aa pan pan on on heat, heat, adding adding to to it, it, for I1 kg. kg. (2]lb.) (2* lb .) pulp, pulp, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) butter butter and and 4 egg egg yolks. yolks. Season with and grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Remove Remove from from heat heat and and add add 22 salt, pepper pepper and salt, dl. ($ (! pint, scant cup) whipped whipped cream. Pile Pile in in a dome in in aa buttered fireproof fireproof dish, dish, sprinkle with with melted melted butter and buttered brown quickly quickly in the the oven. brown This put into a flan case made of of Lining This pur6e purée can also be put paste pasle (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH).

allow to to colour. colour. allow Chopped onions onions fried fried in in butter butter are are sometimes sometimes added added to to this this Chopped dish. dish. Potatoes ià la la hongroise. hongroise. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE A À r,c, LA HoNcRoIss HONGROISE -Potatoes Soften 75 75 g. (3 (3 oz., oz., $ï cup) cup) chopped chopped onions in in butter butter in in aa saut6 sauté Soften pan . Season Season with with I teaspoon teaspoon paprika. Add I1 peeled, peeled, seeded seeded pan. chopped tomato, tomato, and 500 g. (18 oz.) long long potatoes cut and chopped into thick thick round round slices. Season Season with with salt. Moisten Moisten with with meat meat into stock in in sufficient sufficient quantity quantity to to cover cover the the potatoes. potatoes. Bake Bake in the the stock chopped parsley. parsley. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped oven. Potatoes ià la landaise. landaise. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRT TERRE A À LA LANDAISE LANDAISE Potatoes Fry 100 g. (4 oz., oz., I1 cup) diced onions onions and and 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., generous it cup) diced Bayonne ham, in goose fat or lard. generous Wh en the onions and the ham are browned, browned, add 500 g. (i 8 g. (18 When dice. Season Season with salt and pepper. pepper. oz.) potatoes cut in large dice. Cook with with a a lid lid on, on, stirring stirring from from time time to to time. time. Add Add I1 Cook chopped garlic and parsley. parsley. tablespoon chopped Potato loaves. loaves. pArNs PAlNS DE poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE TERRE - Bake big floury Potato spoon. potatoes in the oven and scoop scoop out the pulp with a spoon. Rub this through through aa sieve as as quickly Put the pur6e purée quickly as as possible. Put (a butter, allowing 100 g. (4 thus obtained into aa saucepan with butter, thus oz., f cup) cup) butter butter per I1 kg. (2i lb.) pur6e. purée. Add Add salt, pepper (2*lb.) pepper and oz., few moments to dry off grated nutmeg. Stir on the fire for a few excessive th en remove from heat heat and and add add I1 whole excessive moisture, then eggand yolks . Mix weil. pieces,, and 4 yolks. Divide into 50-g. (2-oz.) pieces egg and 4 well. Divide boat-shaped cakes slit in the middle. middle. mould them into small boat-shaped Put on aa baking sheet, in a and cook in egg and sheet, brush with beaten egg very hot oven until golden golden.. poMMEs DE Potatoes LoRETTE -- Divide Potatoes Lorette. DE TERRE TERRE LORETTE Lorette. POMMES Dauphine 2-oz.) (about 50-g., (see above) potato (see 50-9.,2'oz.) Dauphine polalo above) into into small (about parts, shape fat. deep fat. shape into crescents and fry in deep Potatoes A LA r^1. LYONNAISE Lvor.rNntsn -FoMMEs DE DE TERRE À Potatoes ài la lyonnaise. POMMES Prepare (see potatoes (see for Sauléed Sautied polaloes in the the recipe recipe for Prepare as as described described in below). When three-quarters cooked, add ($ tablespoons (~ add 44 tablespoons cup) ions fried fried in butter. sliced on cup) sliced onions Finish frequently to mix shaking the pan frequently Finish cooking together, together, shaking weil. well. Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. poMr,IEs DE Macaire Bake big potatoes. POMMES MAcAIRE -- Bake TERRE MACAIRE DE TERRE Macaire potatoes. potatoes in the with out the pulp with and scoop out them and the oven. oven. Halve them aa fork. pulp with tablespoons butter, several tablespoons fork. Mash with several Mash this this pulp allowing (2i lb.) pulp. per 1I kg. lb.) pulp. (a oz., kg. (2i g. (4 butter per cup) butter allowing 100 100 g. oz., I cup) Season pepper. and pepper. Season with with salt salt and Put has pan in some butter butter has pulp into which sorne frying pan in which Put the into aa frying the pulp been golden on on both both Fry until until golden flat cake in aa fiat cake.. Fry been heated. heated. Spread Spread in sides. sides. poMMEs DE Maire The same same as as potatoes. POMMES MAIRE -- The TERRE MAIRE DE TERRE Maire potatoes. POlaloes Potatoes àd la la creme. creme. poMMEs DE Potatoes À LA I,IAIIRE rA, MAITRE DE TERRE TERRE,c, Potatocs ài la d'h6tel. POMMES la maitre maitre d'hôtel. D'HÔTEL potatoes in water. Peel Peel and and slice slice Boil the in salted salted water. D'HOrrr -- Boil the potatoes them. boiling milk. milk. pan and cover with with boiling them. Put Put them them into into aa sauté saut6 pan and cover Add until the the Add 22 or and cook cook until or 33 tablespoons butter, season, season, and tablespoons butter, liquid liquid isis boiled boiled down. down. Sprinkle parsley. Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. Potato (U.S. potato potato sticks). FRITES Potato matches PoMMES FRITES sticks). POMMES matches (V.S. ALLUME'ITES (t inch) inch) potatoes ioto sticks tj cm cm.. (* into little little sticks ALLUMETTES -- Cut Cut the the potatoes wide (2| inches) fat in very very hot hot deep deep fat long. Fry Fry in wide and and 66 or inches) long. or 77 cm. cm. (21 in golden potatoes potatoes.. in order to obtain order to obtain crisp crisp golden Drain, fine, dry dry salt. salt. with fine, Drain, dry dry and and season season with Potatoes poMMES DE Boil rvreNtsr -- Boil I-l MENTHE DE TERRE TERRE ÀA LA Potatoes with mint. POMMES with mint. new dish vegetable dish in aa vegetable potatoes with Serve in of mint. mint. Serve new potatoes with aasprig sprig of and potato. put aa green green mint on each each potato. mint leaf leaf on and put

t

t

Potatoes au au naturel Potatoes

AU PoMMES DE TERRE TERRE NATURE, AU or au au naturel. POMMES Potatoes nature or given to to is often often given these names names is One or or other other of of these - One l'anglaise). boiled potatoes (see above, POlaloes Potatoes àd l'anglaise). poMMEs DE potato TERRE -- Shred Shred the potato Potato nests. NIDS DE TERRE NIDs DE DE POMMES for (q.v.) strips, in the recipe for the recipe as described in into into fine julienne (q.v.) strips, as (see below) for lining them for dry and and use them potatoes (see Slraw below).. Wash, dry Straw polaloes Ids or special baskets.. special mou moulds or wire wire baskets wire baskets. baskets. of the the wire potatoes weil sides of Press well against against the sides Press the the potatoes parts, close baskets and and the baskets close the Trim Trim away away any any overlapping overlapping parts, plunge them into fat. plunge hot deep deep fat. into very hot season. Take the pan, drain and season. Take out ofthe drain and out of NoISETTE -(garnish). POMMES TERRE NOISETTE Noisette potatoes (garnish). PoMMES DE DE TERRE Noisette potatoes and pieces ofpotato the size size and Scoop of potato the scoop pieces with aa vegetable vegetable scoop Scoop out out with NATUREL NATUREL -

t

potatoesand and Spoons out potatoes forsrooping scoopingout Spoons for potato noisettes for noisettes forshaping shapingpotato (I-arousse\ (Larousse)

727

POTATOES POTATOES ofhazelnuts. Fry them in butter, season, and cook until shape ofhazelnuts. Fry them in butter, season, and cook until golden all over. golden all over. Potatoes normande. poMMEs on rsRRE i LA NoRMANDE Potatoes ài lalanormande. POMMES DE TERRE À LA NORMANDECut 500 g. (18 oz.) potatoes into thin slices. Wash and dry Cut 500 g. (18 oz.) potatoes into thin slices. Wash and dry them, season with salt and freshly ground pepp€r, and put them, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, and put into a buttered sauté pan inin layers, saut6 pan layers, alternating alternating with wittr the the into a buttered shredded white part of 2 big leeks and I heaped tablespoon shredded white part of 2 big leeks and 1 heaped tablespoon chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and enough white veal stock, Add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and enough white veal stock, meat stock or water - if the dish is intended to be served as meat stock or water - if the dish is intended to be served as Lenten fare to cover the potatoes. Scatter 50 g. (2 oz., f cup) Lenten fare -- to cover the potatoes. Scatter 50 g. (2 oz., i cup) butter in tiny dabs. butter in tiny dabs. Bring to the boil, cover, and cook in the oven. Bring to the boil, cover, and cook in the oven. Potato pancakes. cRf;pEs DE poMMEs DE TBRRE - peel, wash Potato pancakes. CRÊPES DE POMMES DE TERRE - Peel, wash and dry the potatoes, put them through a mincer. Dab the and dry the potatoes, put them through a mincer. Dab the pulp obtained with a cloth, put it into a bowl, season with pulp obtained with a cloth, put it into a bowl, season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, and add, for 500 g. (18 oz.) salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. and add, for 500 g. (18 oz.) potatoes, 2 eggs beaten.with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant potatoes, 2 eggs beaten with 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant -!-* cup) "up) milk and 50 g. (2 oz., f cup) Noisette bulrcr (see BUTIER, milk and 50 g. (2 oz., cup) Noisette butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters)- Add cheese if desired. Compound butters). Add cheese if desired. Make the pancakes in the usual manner, keeping them a Make the pancakes in the usual manner, keeping them a little thicker than for sweet pancakes. little thicker than for sweet pancakes. shape

puRfE DE poMMEs DE Potato purée. puree. PURÉE DEPOMMES DETERRE TERRE- - Cut potatoes Cut potatoes Potato into thick thickslices slices or quarters and orquarters and cook cook them theminin fast-boiling fasi-boiling into salted water. water. salted putinin the Drain, put theoven oven for for aafew few moments moments to to evaporate evaporate Drain, surplus moisture moistureand and rub rub through through aasieve, pressingdown sieve, pressing down with with surplus wooden masher. masher. Put pur6e into Put the the purée pan set into aa pan seton on the the stove stove aawooden and blend blend in in about (6 oz., about175 175g.g. (6 per kg. oz., if,cup) cup) butter (2+ lb.) butter per kg.(2i lb.) and pur6e. Add Add aafew few tablespoons tablespoons of of boiling boiling milk, milk, stir stir vigorously vigorously purée. with aa wooden wooden spoon spoon and and serve. serve. with pur6eshould The purée should not not be be allowed allowed to to boil boil after after the the butter butter has has The been added added to to il. it. been punEe DE poMMEs DE Potato purée pur6e ài la la crème. crime. PURÉE DE POMMES nB TERRE rnnnr ÀA LA r.r Potato cRilrffi -- As As above, above, replacing replacing milk milk by by fresh fresh cream. cream. CRÈME puRfn DE poMMEs DE Potrto purée puree au gratin. PURÉE au gratin. DE POMMES DE TERRE TERRE AU AU Potato cRATIN -- Prepare Prepare the pur6e as the purée as described described above. grated above. Add Add grated GRATIN cheese and put into and put into aa buttered buttered fireproof fireproof dish; dish; smooth smooth the the cheese surface, working working itit into into aa slight slight dome shape. Sprinkle dome shape. Sprinkle with with surface, grated cheese cheese and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown the the top. top. grated porAcs puRfe DE pn POMMES potvrrrrns DE pur6e soup. Potato purée soup. POT os TERRE rERRE -- See See Potato AGE PURÉE parmentier. SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Purée Purde ofpotato of potato soup soup Parmentier. SOUPS Potato quenelles quenelles ài l'alsacienne, I'alsacienne, called called Boutes floutes (Alsatian Potato poMMEs DE cookery). QUENELLES DE POMMES DE TERRE eT.JENELLES DE TERRE À A L'ALSACIENNE, L,ArsAcrENNE, cookery). DIrEs FLOUTES Flourrs -- Prepare Prepare 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 500 g. oz., 2i 2| cups) cups) very very fine fine DITES potato pur6e. Add Add 22 whole whole eggs eggs and g. (3 (3 oz., and 75 75 g. oz., if, cup) potato purée. unsifted flour flour in in order order to to obtain obtain aa fairly fairly firm paste. Season unsifted pepper and with salt, salt, pepper grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. with Shape into into balls, balls, roll roll to to look look like corks, or mould with a Shape soup spoon. spoon. Drop Drop the quenelles one the quenelles one by one into pan of into aa pan soup by one salted boiling boiling water. water. Poach Poach for 8 8 to 10 l0 minutes. Drain and put salted minutes. Drain into aa buttered dish. Pour Pour over over some hot Noisette Noisitte into buttered dish. sorne piping piping hot (see BUTTER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) in which a handful butter offine, freshly grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs have been of fine, freshly been lightly fried. Potato with Parmesan cheese. euENELLEs Potato quenelles quenelles with Parmesan cheese. QUENELLES DE DE poMMEs DE TERRE AU IARMESAN prepare quenelles as POMMES DE TERRE AU PARMESAN - Prepare the quenelles described above. described above. After After poaching, poaching. put put them them into into a a dish, dish, buttered and sprinkled sprinkled with with grated grated parmesan Parmesan cheese. buttered and Sprinkle Sprinkle with with more more grated grated Parmesan, Parmesan, spoon spoon over over some sorne melted melted butter, butter, and and brown brown the the top top in in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. Rissole Rissole potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE Rrssor,fEs RISSOLÉES -- Another Another name name for for Sautied Sautéedpotatoes potatoes (see (see below). below). Roast Roast potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE ndrrcs RÔTIES -- peel Peel big, big, long long potatoes, put them them into into aa saut6 sauté pan pan in in which which some sorne butter butter potatoes, and and put or or lard lard has has been been heated. heated. Season Season with with salt. salt. Cook Cook in in the the oven, oven, basting basting frequently, frequently, until until golden golden all ail over. over. Potatoes Potatoes Saint-Flour. Saint-Flour. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE sArNT-FLouR SAINT-FLOUR -- Line Line the the bottom bottorn of of aa deep deep fireproof fireproof dish dish with with aa layer layer of of green green cabbage and cooked cooked slightly slightly crisp. crisp. Over Over the the cabbage braised braised in in fat fat and cabbage potatoes cut cabbage put put aa layer layer of ofpotatoes cut in in thick thick slices, slices, mixed mixed with with lean lean diced diced bacon, bacon, scalded scalded and and fried. fried. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten Moisten with with stock, stock, flavoured flavoured with with aa little little crushed crushed garlic. Cook in in aa slow slow oven. oven. garlic. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Cook Potato Potatosalad salad-- See See SALAD. SALAD. Potatoes Potatoes ià lala sarladaise. sarladaise. FoMMEs POMMES DE DETERRE TERREAÀr.l LA smreplrsn SARLADAISE -- Prepare Preparelike like Anna Annapotatoes potatoesputting puttingthe the potatoes potatoesinto into aa deep deep dish thinly sliced ofthinly slicedtrufres. truffles. dish inin layers, layers, alternating alternatingwith withrows rowsof Saut6ed Sautéedpotatoes potatoesI.1.poMMEs POMMESDE DETEnnn TERREs.q,ur6es SA UTÉES-- Slice Sliceboiled, boiled, peeled, Sea~on, and and fry fry in in butter butter until until golden, golden, peeled, potatoes. potatoes. Season, shaking shakingthe thepan panfrequently frequentlytotoensure ensureeven evenbrowning. browning.Sprinkle Sprinkle with withchopped choppedparsley. parsley. Srut6ed Sautéedpotatoes potatoesII. II.pourr,trs POMMESDE DETERRE TERREsAUTEES SAUTÉESAÀcnu CRU-- Cut Cut 500 500g.g. (18 (18oz.) oz.)uncooked uncookedDutch Dutchpotatoes potatoesinto intovery verythin thinslices, slices, wash, wash,dry dryon onaacloth clothand andseason. season. Cook Cookininbutter butterininaafrying fryingpan. pan.Shake Shakethe thepan panfrequently frequentlytoto ensure ensure even even cooking cooking and and to to give give all ail the the potatoes potatoes aa golden golden colour. colour. Sprinkle Sprinklewith withchopped choppedparsley. parsley. Saut6ed Sautéedpotatoes potatoesi àlalaprovengale. provençale.r.oMMEs POMMESDE DETERRE TERREslurfrs SAUTÉES pnowNgALE AÀr,a LA PROVENÇALE-- Use Useeither eitherraw raw or orboiled boiled potatoes potatoes and and

±

Potatoes d la parisienne

Potaloes à la parisienne

i la parisienne (garnish). poMMEs DE rsRRE Potatoes à la parisienne (garnish). POMMES or TERRE A À ra LA IARTSIENNE - Like Noisette potatoes, but smaller in size. As PARISIENNE - Like Noisette potatoes, but srnaller in size. As soon as the potatoes are cooked, toss them in greatly soon as the potatoes are cooked, toss them in greatly Potatoes

concentrated veal stock or dissolved meat jelly. Sprinkle with concentrated veal stock or dissolved meatjelly. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Parmentier potatoes. poMMEs DE TERRI rARMENTTER - Cut Parmentier potatoes. POMMES DE TERRE PARMENTIER - Cut potatoes into pieces about I cm. (.| inch) square. Cook them potatoes into pieces about 1 cm. (-!- inch) square. Cook them in butter. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. in butter. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. These potatoes are more often cooked with the meat with These potatoes are more often cooked with the meat with which they are served. which they are served. Parsley potatoes. poMMEs DE TERRE pBngrrfrs Boil the

Parsley potatoes. POMMES DE TERRE PERSILLÉES -- Boil the potatoes, drain well and add rqelted butter and chopped potatoes, drain weil and add melted butter and chopped parsley. Potatoes with bacon the recipe for which is given parsley. Potatoes with bacon the recipe for which is given above, are often served under this name. this na me. above, are often served under Potrtoes i la paysanne. poMMEs DE TERRE .A, r..,c, pA.ysA,Nttrn Potatoes à la paysanne. POMMES DE TERRE À LA PA YSANNECut the potatoes into very thin round slices. put them into a Cut the potatoes into very thin round slices. Put thern into a buttered saut6 pan in alternate layers with chopped sorrel buttered sauté pan in alternate layers with chopped sorrel cooked in butter mixed with pounded chervil and i pinch of cooked in butter mixed with pounded chervil and a pinch of grated garlic. Season with salt and pepper, add meat siock (or grated garlic. Season with salt and pepper, add meat stock (or water, if th the dish is to be served as Lenten fare). Scatter tiny water, if th the dish is to be served as Lenten fare). Scatter tiny dabs ofbutter over and cook in the oven. dabs of butter over and cook in the oven. 728 728

POTATOES POTATOES

(k

3 mm. ($ inch) thick -- the temperature is lowered to to 120°C. 120.C. (248'F.). soft. They They are (248°F.). The potatoes are then then cooked and soft. taken potatoes are taken out, the heat heat is is increased increased and out, the the potatoes and the reimmersed, register at reimmersed, a few at a time, time, in hot fat which should should register least 190'C. puffing up. At this tempera190°C. (374"F.) (374°F.) to ensure purfing ture the surface surface of of the slices slices is transformed transformed into a waterproof skin, which will swell skin, swell as as aa result of the volatilisation of the water contained inside. water inside. Steamed potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE LA VAPEUR TERRE À A rA vApeuR -- Steam the potatoes potatoes in a special steamer as described described in the recipe for Potatoes Potatoes dà l'anglaise. l'anglaise. Potatoes in in stock. POMMES DE DE TERRE AU JUS stock. poMMEs TERRE AU JUs - Cut Cut the potatoes into quarters and put into a sauté saut6 pan with butter.

-

Pour in in enough clear clear brown veal to cover. veal stock stock to cover. Season, Season, cover, cover, and cook in the oven. Straw potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs POMMES FRITES FRITES IATLLE PAILLE -- Cut the potatoes into very thinjulienne (q.v.) sticks. Wash Wash and dry on a clotho cloth. Fry in hot, hot, deep fat. fat. Drain in in aa frying frying basket. basket. Just before serving, smoking hot fat. serving, plunge plunge into smoking Stuffed potatoes potatoes I. J. porraurs POMMES DE TERRE TERRE FARCIES - Bake long FARcrEs -

potatoes in the oven and scoop out two-thirds of the pulp. Rub Rub through through a sieve sieve and mix mix with with ingredients ingredients such duxe/les such as duxelles (q.v.), (q.v.), fines fines herbes herbes (q.v.), (q.v.), grated grated cheese, cheese, chopped chopped ham, mirepoix (q.v.), chopped onion onion softened softened in butter, butter, or various mirepoix chopped chopped meats, meats, etc. etc. Season well, weil, add add butter butter and fill the and fill potato potato skins skins with the mixture. mixture. cheese or breadcrumbs, pour pour on on a Sprinkle with grated cheese little butter and brown brown the top. !ittle melted melted butter sorne very big potatoes. Cut them to look like Or: Peel some off the ends ends to make make them themall same height, cylinders, slice offthe cylinders, all the same say say about about 66 to 77 cm. (2| (2i- inches).

Potatoes, Potatoes, roast, roast, noisette, noisette, saute, saute, mashed, mashed, biled, boiled, fried fried

prepare prepare like like Sautied Sautéed potatoes potatoes Ilor li. Add I1 good good tablespoon or II. chopped chopped parsley parsley and and garlic. garlic. These potatoes can can also also be be cooked cooked in in oil oil instead instead of of butter. butter. These potatoes Potatoes Potatoes ià la la savoyarde. savoyarde. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE i, À la LA s^nvoy^l,npn SA VOY ARDE Prepare like like Potatoes Potatoes dà la la dauphinoise, dauphinoise, replacing replacing the the milk milk by by - Prepare

white white stock. Potato Potato souffl6 soufflé -- See See SOUFFLE. SOUFFLÉ. Souf[6 Soufflé potatoes potatoes (or puffed puffed potatoes). potatoes). poMrtrns POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE sotrrrrEss Choose uniform-sized uniform-sized potatoes. potatoes. Peel, Peel, trim and SOUFFLÉES -- Choose cut cut them them lengthways lengthways into into slices, 33 mm. mm. (* (k inch) inch) thick. thick. Wash and and dry dry on on aa cloth. clotho Plunge Plunge into into not not too too hot hot deep fat, which which should be be heated heated gradually. gradually. Cook the the potatoes potatoes until they they begin begin to to rise rise to the the surface. surface. Drain Drain in in aa frying frying basket. basket. Just Just before before serving, serving, plunge plunge them them into into a second second pan pan ofvery of very hot hot deep deep fat. fat. Drain Drain the the potatoes, potatoes, which which should should be be well weil puffed puffed up, spread them them on on aa cloth cloth and and sprinkle sprinkle with with salt. salt. up, spread This This method method of cooking cooking potatoes potatoes was was discovered by by accident. claimed that that the the discovery discovery took took place place at at Pecq Pecq in in accident. ItIt isis claimed 1837, the train train had had great great difficulty difficulty in in clambering clambering up up the the 1837, when wh en the final final slope. slope. The proprietor proprietor of of the the restaurant restaurant in which the the Company Company was was giving giving lunch lunch to to its its guests guests had had prepared prepared some sorne fried potatoes for for the the appointed appointed time time and and let let them them get get cold, cold, fried potatoes and and then, then, taken taken by by surprise surprise by by the the unexpected unexpected arrival arrivai ofthe of the party, party, only only had had time time to to plunge plunge them them into into boiling boiling fat quickly quickly and, and, to to his his amazement, amazement, saw saw them them puffup. puffup. The The famous famous analytical analytical chemist chemist Chevreul, Chevreul, who who was was inforinforof this this phenomenon, phenomenon, studied studied it it experimentally experimentally and and \ med med of established established the the conditions conditions under under which which itit occurred occurred and and could could be be reproduced reproduced at at will. will. ItIt isis perhaps perhaps the the only only time time that that aa train train being being late late had had happy happy consequences consequences!! potatoes require require double double cooking cooking and and fat fat which which can can Soufflé potatoes Souffle be be brought brought to to a a very very high high temperature temperature without without burning, burning, which which is is best best achieved achieved with with beef beef suet. su et. The The potatoes potatoes should should first first be be plunged plunged into into fat fat at at aa temperature temperature of of 180'C. 180°C. (356'F.) (356°F.) contained contained in in aa big big pan pan (which (which reduces reduces the the degree degree of ofcooling); cooling); this temperature temperature is is reduced reduced to to 135'C. 135°C. (275'F.) (275°F.) in in 22 minutes. minutes. this After 77 minutes minutes -- the the time time needed needed for for cooking cooking through through slices slices After

Howtoempty How to empty ready for stuffing stuffing for

potato aa potato

Hollow them out out with a vegetable vegetable scoop, scoop, to form a cavity cavity Hollow of containing about 50 g. (2 oz., It cup) forcemeat. capable of Blanch in fast-boiling salted water, drain, dry, arrange in a Blanch well-buttered sauté pan pan and and season. Stuff with the the filling well-buttered saut6 a forcing-bag forcing-bag or with with a a spoon. spoon. indicated, either through a indicated, Smooth the the top top layer layer of of the the filling filling into aa dome dome shape. Smooth Moisten the potatoes with meat stock without covering covering Moisten them.Bring to the the boil on on the the stove, stove, cover cover the pan, and and cook them. Bring to slow oven oven from 35 to 40 minutes. Remove Remove the potatoes in a slow them in a a fireproof dish, dish, sprinkle with carefully, arrange them breadcrumbs and melted butter and brown the top in the breadcrumbs oven. Boil down the the pan juices, juices, skim off any surplus fat, oven. strain, and and pour pour over over the the potatoes. potatoes. strain, Il. pourvcs POMMES DE DE TERRE FouRRfBs FOURRÉES - Bake Bake Stuffed potatoes II. uniform·shaped potatoes. potatoes. Cut Cut a a circular medium-sized, uniform-shaped opening on on one one side side and and keep keep the the cut-out cut-out pieces pieces to to use use as as lids. opening Scoop out three-quarters three-quarters of the the pulp, pulp, taking ta king care care not not to damage the the skin. Stuffthe Stuffthe potatoes potatoes with the the filling filling indicated. indicated. damage the top with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs or grated grated cheese cheese and Sprinkle the brown the the top, top, or or simply sim ply replace replace the the cut-out cut-out circles circles as as lids. brown on aa folded folded napkin. napkin. Serve on Serve the stuffed stuffed potatoes potatoes are are to to be be browned browned later, later, itit isis better better to IfIfthe cut them them in in half, half, lengthways, lengthways, instead instead of of hollowing them out cut through aa circular circular opening. opening. through Stuffed potNtocs potatoes ià ls la cancalaise. cancalaise. porrruns POMMES oe DE renRE TERRE A À rl LA Stulfed CANCALAISE -- Prepare Prepare like like Stuffed Stuffedpotatoes potatoes Il, using using aa filling filling of cANcALAISE 729

POTEE POTÉE poached oysters, (see oysters, mushrooms, mushrooms, and White wine wine sauce sauce(see and White poached sAUCE). SAUCE). poMMEs DE ps TERRE potatoes ài la Stufied potatoes la cantalienne. cantalienne. POMMES rERRE Ài LA rl Stuffed pulp out potato, mash cANTALIENNE -- Scoop Scoop pulp out of of the the potato, mash and and mix mix CANTALIENNE with two-thirds two-thirds ofits of its weight weight ofbraised, chopped cabbage. of braised, chopped cabbage. with grated cheese Sprinkle with with grated cheese and and brown brown the the top. top. Sprinkle poMMEs DE potatoes ài la (Hunter style). Stufred potatoes la chasseur chasseur (Hunter style). POMMES DE Stuffed TERRE CHASSEUR potatoes as cHAssEuR -- Cook Cook potatoes as above above and and stufT stuff with with TERRE sliced chicken chicken livers livers and and mushrooms, mushrooms, sautéed saut6ed in in butter, butter, and and sliced (see SAUCE). Chas s eur sauce s auce (see SAUCE). Chasseur

pourues DE Potatoes stuffed stuffed with with sausage samrge meat. meat. POMMES Potatoes DETERRE TERRE Prepare as in the thesecond second as described described in - Prepare method of the recipe potatoes J./. Fill for Stuffed of the Fill with recipe for Stuffed potatoes withsausage sausage method parsley and, meat stuffing, stuffing, mixed with chopped chopped parsley and, ifif desired, desired, mixedwith meat chopped onions onions lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. chopped butter. potato€s can These potatoes can also also be be stufTed with sausage sausage meat These stuffed with meat mixed with pulp of with the potatoes, as the pulp cooked potatoes, as described described in in the of cooked mixed the first method method of of the the same same recipe. recipe. tirst poMtrns DE potatoes soubise. Sdfed potatoes soubise. POMMES Stuffed DETERRE sousrsn - - Fill Fill TERRE SOUBISE (see PURÉE) with thick thick Onion Onion soubise soubise (see with PUREE) with with cream. cream. Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs Sprinkle breadcrumbs and and brown brown the the top. top. poMMEs DE potatoes ài la Strfed potatoes Stuffed la Vichy. Vichy. POMMES DETERnE rERRE ÀALA r.q, VICHYvrcHy (see CARROTS). Fill with with Carrots Fill Carrots àd la la Vichy Vichy (see CARROTS). Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs Sprinkle breadcrumbs and and brown brown the the top. top. potatoes Yorkshire Stulfed potatoes Stuffed Yorkshire style. DE TERRE styla POMMES rouurs DE TERRE ÀA LA LA potatoes in voRKAISE -- Bake Bake the YORKAISE the potatoes in the fill with with the oyen oven and and tiIl chopped York York ham chopped ham and and mushrooms mushrooms bound with Béchamel bound with Bichamel (see SAUCE), sauce (see sauce SAUCE), mixed mixed with with chopped chopped onion onion !ightly lightly fried fried in butter butter and in and seasoned seasoned with paprika. with aa !ittle little paprika. poMMEs DE Potato subrics. Potato subrics. SUBRICS suBRJcs DE DB POMMES DE TERRE TERRE -- Cut Cut the the potatoes into parboil in potatoes into small small dice, dice, parboil in salted salted water water for for 22 minutes, minutes, drain dry, drain dry, and and cook cook lightly pan. lightly in in butter butter in in aa covered covered pan. Remove from Remove from the the heat heat and and bind bind witb with thick thrck Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE), (scant !I pint, SAUCE), allowing pint, generous generous cup) (see allowing 2! 2| dl. dl. (scant cup) (18 per 500 g. (J sauce per sauce 8 oz., cups) potatoes. 500 g. potatoes. Add yolks and 2|cups) oz., 2i Add 33 yolks and 1I whole whole egg grated pepper and egg to to the the mixture. Season with mixture. Season with salt, salt, pepper and grated nutmeg and and mix. mix. Heat sorne Heat some claritied pan and clarified butter butter in in aa frying and drop drop the the frying pan mixture mixture 1I tablespoon tablespoon at at aa time into the butter, taking time into the hot hot butter, taking care care to allow allow space space for for thesubrics the szbrlcs to to spread during cooking, cooking, and spread during and to to prevent their prevent their sticking sticking to to each each other. other. Turn palette knife Turn the the subrics subrics with with aa palette knife to to make make both both sides sides golden. Serve golden. (see SAUCE). Serve witb with Cream sauce (see Cream sauce SAUCE). poMMEs DE Potatoes Potatoes ài la la toulousaine. toulousaine. POMMES DE TERRE TERRE ÀA LA LA TOULOUSAINE TouIousAINE -- Cut potatoes into quarters and Cut the the potatoes into quarters and brown brown them lightly in goose fat in aa mixture of pan. of$i goose in aa sauté fat and and j$ oil oil in saut6 pan. Season, Season, sprinkle sprinkle with with fiour, flour, add add 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped garlic and parsley. Pour garIic Pour in in enough enough stock water to or water the stock or to coyer cover the potatoes. Stir, potatoes. Stir, bring to to the boil, boil, coyer, cover, and and cook cook in in the the oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. poMMEs DE Potatoes ài la la Vichy. POMMES vrcrry -- Name Name DE TERRE TERRE À A LA rl VICHY sometimes given to Potatoes àd la la Crécy. Cricy. poMMEs DE Potatoes Potatoes Voisin. Voisin. POMMES DB TERRE Prepare like like TERRE VOISIN vorsrN -- Prepare Anna potatoes potatoes sprinkling each potatoes with grated grated each layer of of potatoes cheese. poMMEs DE yvETTE - Name Potatoes Potatoes Yvette. Yvette. POMMES DE TERRE TERRE YVETTE - Name under which Annette potatoes are Annette potatoes are sometimes sometimes served. FARcIES CHARCUTIÈRE cHencurrinr FARCIES

Stuffed potato with cheese

#T"TI""IHII"

potat"- with cheese. POMMES DE TERRE shtrred potatoes AU FROMAGE, ER.MAGE, Stuffed -RRE AU crulnxfns. Cook potatoes as Cook potatoes as above, above, and and stuff stuff with with the GRATINÉES. the seasoned, and with butter added to it. it. mashed pulp, seasoned, the top. Sprinkle with grated cheese and brown tbe poMlrEs DE Sdfed potatoes ài la duxelles. POMMES Stuffed DE TERRE TERRE FARCIES rl,ncrcs Ài DIxELLES -- Prepare like Potatoes stuffed LA DUXELLES with sausage meat stuffedwith meat (see below) and stufTwith stuffwithaduxelles (see a duxelles (q.v.) mixture. poMMEs Strfd potatoes fermière. fermiire. POMMES DE TERRE TERRs FERMlÈRE rrnrrniinr -- Fill Fill Stuffed with potatoes, mashed and mixed of the potatoes, with the pulp pulp scooped out of with of its weight ofchopped ofchopped stock-pot vegetables. with two-thirds two-thirds ofits grated cbeese Sprinkle with grated cheese and brown the top. Sprinkle poMMEs DE potatoes ài la Stffd potatoes la florentine. POMMES nn TERRE rsnnc ÀA LA Stuffed rA, FI-RENTTNE spinach cooked in butter. Coyer FLORENTINE -- Fill with spinach Cover with with Mornay with grated cbeese Mornay sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkle witb cheese and brown brown the top. poMMEs DE pe TERRE Stulfed potato€s hongroise. POMMES la hongroise. Stuffed potatoes ài la rEnRE À A LA rl HoNcRorsE the potatoes, HONGROISE - Fill with the pulp scooped out of tbe mashed masbed with a fork, mixe-d mixed with one-third of its weight weight of chopped cbopped onion onion gently fried fried in in butter butter and and seasoned with paprika. paprika. Stufred POMMES DB DE TERRE Stuffed potatoes potatoes Maintenon. Maintenon. poMMEs TERRE MAINTENON MATNTENoN with a a salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of breast of chicken, pickled -- Fill with tongue, truffles and mushrooms bound with soubise soubise (q.v.). truffles and Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated cheese cheese mixed with breadcrumbs and brown brown the the top. top. Stutred ménagère. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE FARCIES Stuffed potatoes potatoes ià la m6nagire. rlncrEs À A t,c, LA IvfNA,citRE MÉNAGÈRE - Prepare llke like Potatoes stuffed with sausage sausage meat (see below) below) and and stuffwith stufT with chopped chopped meat meat left-overs. meat (see The The chopped chopped meat, meat, beef beef or or mutton, mutton, can be be mixed mixed with onethird its weight ofits weight of of fine tine forcemeat or or sausage sausage meat. meaL third of Sfitrfed Stuffed potatoes potatoes princesse. poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE TERRE pRrNgEssE PRINCESSE Fill with asparagus asparagus tips tips with with Cream Cream sauce (see (see SAUCE). Cover Coyer the tbe potatoes potatoes with with slivers slivers of of truffles. truffles. Sffied provençale. potvrlrss POMMES os DE rERRE TERRE A À rA, LA Stuffed potatoes potatoes ià la provengale. pRovENgALE PROVENÇALE -- Fill with with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of marinated marinated tunny (tuna (tuna fish) tish) and and hard-boiled bard-boiled eggs, eggs, bound with Tomato fondue fondue wrth Tomato (see (see TOMATO). TOMATO). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown the top. top.

POTÉE POTEE -- Ali All preparations cooked in an In an earthenware earthenware pot. In particular the scribes soup pork and the word word de describes soup made made with with pork and vegetables, mostly cabbage and potatoes, of which cabbage and potatoes, soup is the most characteristic. Potée Potee Lorraine Iorraine -- Line tbe the bottom of an vessel an earthenware earthenware vessel with pieces of pork with pieces pork skin skin or or bacon rind. rind. Place on top sorne some on top fresb pork fat, fresh pork fat, aa knuckle knuckle of of barn ham or or bladebone of of pork, carrots, turnips, carrots, turnips, bunches bunches of of leeks leeks and and aa wbole whole blanched blanched cabbage. cabbage. Barely coyer cover with with cold cold water. water. Cook Cook for for 3 hours. Thirty minutes before taking it from the tire, put in aa large, fire, put well-pricked well-pricked sausage. Serve potatoes. Serve with boiled potatoes. POT-ROASTING. roELAGE POÊLAGE - Metbod POT-ROASTING. by cooking by - Method of slow cooking steam. A casserole casserole with with aa tightly fitting lid is is used. used. The food is is cooked in butter or fat and flavoured with vegetables which be~n cooked slowly in butter butter until very tender. have been tender. or fish tish must must be Pot-roasted meat, poultry or frequently be basted frequently during cooking. cooking. When When it it is is ready, ready, take take it during it out out of of the on aa dish, dish, or, where appropriate, appropriate, in aa cocotte casserole. Serve Serve on cocotte Remove most of oftbe (q.v.). Remove the cooking cooking fat. juices in the the casserole casserole with wine wine or Dilute the juices stock as as or stock 730

POUSSOIR POUSSOIR prepared with POULE-AU-POT -- Pot-au-feu with beef beef and POULE-AU-POT Pot-au-Jbu prepared and aa stuffed chicken. chicken. (See SOUPS AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Pot-au-feu stuffed Pot-au-Jbu àd la la bdarnaise.) béarnaise.) (A LA) -- Method POULETTE (A POULETIE Method of of preparing aa diversity diversity of of ingredients, notably ingredients, notably offal variety meats. offal or or variety meats. Previously (see cooked, these cooked, these are are moistened moistened with with aa Velouté Veloutd sauce sauce (see yolks and SAUCE) bound with egg egg yolks and cream, cream, and and are are usually usually garnished with !ittle (See OFF AL or garnished little onions onions and mushrooms. (See OFFAL or (lambs') trotters VARIETY MEATS, Sheep's Sheep's (lambs') totters àd la la poulette; MUSHROOMS, Mushrooms MUSHROOMS, Mushrooms àd la poulette.)

indicated in the recipe. few seconds. Strain Strain and recipe. Boil Boil for aa few pour pour over over the dish. dish. Pot-roasting A ra MATTcNoN -la Matignon. Matignon. potrecr POÊLA GE À LA MATIGNON Pot-roasting ià la Brown lightly in butter the meat or fish to be be pot-roasted. Cover orfondue (q.v.) of of Matignon(q.v.) Matignon (q.v.) orfondue Coyer with with a thick layer layer of root vegetables. Wrap paper and Wrap in in buttered buttered greaseproof paper cook in the oven oyen in a a braising braising pan, pan, or or on on the the spit. spit. After cooking, cooking, unwrap, unwrap, place place on on a a dish, dish, surround surround with with the appropriate appropriate garnishes garnishes and and pour pour on on the stock. stock. Braising la Matignon Matignon can also be carried out by lining lining the Braising dà la braising braising pan with the fondue of root vegetables and placing the poultry, liberally liberally basted with butter, butter, on top. the meat, meat, fish fish or poultry,

POULIGNY-SAINT-PIERRE POULIGNY-SAINT-PIERRE -- See CHEESE. POULTRY. - See CHICKEN. POULTRY. VOLAILLE VoLATLLEPOUPELIN -- Gâteau (see Gdteau made paste (see made by by cooking cooking Chou Chou paste DOUGH) in plain mould. in aa plain Three-quarters of mould. Three-quarters of the the pastry spills outside the the mould during cooking. cooking. Cool Cool and fill the and fill the crust with with Chantilly (see CREAMS), fruit mousse or Chantilly cream (see or icecream. ice cream. POUPETON -- Method POUPETON preparing certain Method of certain butcher's of preparing meats, which are rolled one inside the other into aa meat roll. These pieces are generally generally braised. POUSSIN -- See POUSSIN See CHICKEN, Spring chicken. chicken.

POTTED POTTED CHAR CHAR (English (English cookery) cookery) -- Fish Fish conserve conserve formerly held in in great great esteem esteem in in England, England, where where it it was was eaten eaten at breakfast. breakfast. Cook Cook the the char char in a prepared prepared vegetable vegetable stock and let them cool cool in in the the liquid. Remove Remove all ail skin and bones and arrange arrange the fillets fish, well weil drained, drained, in shallow shallow earthenware pots. fillets of fish, Cover butter and set set in the the oven oyen for l5 15 minutes. minutes. Coyer with with clarified clarified butter Allow to get get quite quite cold. Add Add a few more more tablespoons tablespoons clarified clarified Allow to butter, that the the fish is completely completely covered. covered. butter, ifif necessary, necessary, so that Potted Potted char, char, kept in aa cool place, place, will will keep for 2 weeks. weeks. In U.S.A., char is the name name given to certain types of redU.S.A., char fleshed Trout may may be be used used in in this recipe. recipe. fleshed trout. trout. Trout

POUSSOIR -- Smail (pork Small machine machine used used in in charcuterie charcuterie (pork butchery), with which the minced meats are pressed pressed into the gut to make sausages. Air is gut prevented from entering gut, is prevented entering the gut, an essential condition condition ofperfect of perfect sausage sausage making.

POUILLARD POUILLARD -- Name Name given given to a a young partridge. partridge. It is is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as a fully fully grown grown partridge. partridge.

Mushrooms dà la la poulette poulette (Robert (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Mushrooms

731 731

POUTARGUE, BOUTARGUE POUTARGUE, in he founded the Maison de de la Prasline, Prasline, in Montargis where he

POUTARGUE, POUTARGUE, BOUTARGUE BOUTARGUE -- See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Cold Cold hors-d'euyre. hors-d'œuvre.

which later Roy. later becamethe became the ConfisCrie Confisérie du du Roy.

POUTINE POUTINE - Tiny undeveloped undeveloped fish (larvae or post-larvae or

PRALINER PRALINER -- To add praline praline to a custard, custard, ice ice cream cream mixture

'fry') various kinds, mainly 'fry') of ofvarious mainly the early early stages stages of of sardines sardines and

or mousse.

anchovies. anchovies. They are are treated in the same sa me way as nonats (q.v.).

PRAIRE PRAIRE - Popular Popular name na me in France for the clam, a bivalve

PRATELLE -- Variety and pinkish, Variety of mushroom, mushroom, large large and pinkish,

mollusc, most often often eaten eaten raw raw like like oysters oysters but but which which may may also mollusc, most

cultivated cultivated in beds. beds.

be cooked like like mussels. mussels.

PREIGNAC of the PREIGNAC - White White wine wine which comes cornes from from a district district of

This This shellfish is is found found on on the the sandy Atlantic coasts coasts of

same same name name in the Gironde. Gironde.

France and also in the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. It is known, known, Ls as coque coque rayCe of Cancale and St. St. Malo, and as rigadelle rigadelle rayée in the bays of the the Atlantic the length of orthe Atlantic Coast Coast from St. Brieuc Brieuc to Lannion. Lannion.

PRf-SALE PRÉ-SALÉ _ - See SALT SALT MEADOW. MEADOW. PRESENT -- Dutch cheese, also known under the name of

PRALINE. IRALIN PRALIN - A A preparation used by pastry-cooks,

Edammer Kaas. Kaas.

made made in the the following way: way: Ingredients.l00 Ingredients. 100 g. (4 (4 oz., oz., scant cup) almonds, 100 g. (4 oz., !lcup) cup) sugar, sugar, {vanilla ! vanilla pod. Method. Put Put the the sugar sugar and and vanilla vanilla in a copper copper pan pan and and melt over a good heat heat until it is brown. Remove Remove the vanilla pod. Add Add the the almonds, almonds, previously previously browned browned in in the the oven. oyen. Mix. Pour Pour into a greased baking tin, cool, then pound in a mortar as finely as as possible. possible.

PRESENTATION PRESENTATION OF DISHES. pnnssacn DRESSAGE ons DES prlrs PLATS - To present a a dish dish is is to to arrange arrange food food on on a a serving serving dish dish in accordance accordance with certain accepted rules, e.g., a joint joint of of meat meat surrounded surrounded by by its appropriate appropriate garnish. garnish. In ln former times the presentation of dishes was somewhat elaborate. There are many man y fine fine drawings of these mastermasterpieces pieces of of culinary culinary architecture architecture in the the works works of of Car0me. Carême. The presentation of dishes is now as simple as as possible. possible. Cold Cold dishes dishes are are generally generally served served on a layer ofjelly of jelly straight straight on the the dish surrounded surrounded by by a suitable suitable garnish gamish or or jelly jelly motifs. motifs. Or Or in glass or crystal crystal bowls, completely completely covered with very clear jelly. jelly. Aspics, mousses, moulds moulds and other moulded moulded dishes dishes are sometimes sometimes set on on a slice slice of of sandwich sandwich bread bread cut cut to the the shape shape of their their base base and surrounded with a border border ofjelly, of jelly, but but they they are more commonly commonly served straight straight on the dish, decorated with jelly, jelly, or in a glass glass bowl. bowl. Fish is generally served served surrounded by the appropriate appropriate garnish interspersed with sprigs of of curly parsley, or, where where appropriate, appropria te, skinned, trimmed and masked masked with jelly jelly and decorated decorated with whatever whatever jelly jelly is indicated indicated in the the recipe. recipe. This This simplification simplification in the serving serving of of cold dishes, especially especially sweetS recommended by by Car€me Carême himself, who who sweets (desserts), was was recommended urged urged the the use use of of crystal crystal bowls. bowls. In ln the 'introductory 'introductory discourse' to the the Cuisinier parisien, parisien, Car6me Carême says says that, that, for the the presentation presentation of of these these dishes dishes he he had furnished furnished manufacturers manufacturers with 'several models of bowls for sweets, some sorne of which should be presented presented in crystal crystal containers.' tainers.' He He advised advised the the cooks of of his own day to 'stand 'stand jelly jelly sweets sweets on ice ice to to set', set', which which is now current current practice. practice. 'In 'In general', general', wrote wrote Car6me, Carême, 'I '1 would wou Id wish to see these these new new bowls carried carried out in future in handsome silverware. They would would do do honour honour to to the the eoldsmiths goldsmiths and and silversmiths silversmiths of France.' France.'

Giteau'pralin6' Gâteau 'praliné'

PRALINf. PRALINÉ. pur,nrE. PRALINÉ.

made with layers of Genoese -- Cake made cake separated separated by a layer of praline praline butter cream, covered covered with with a layer layer of of same same cream, cream, sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped chopped almonds. Praline Praline butter butter cream cream is is made made by by adding adding 200 200 g. (7 (7 oz., I1 cup) cup) powdered powdered praline praline to to I1 kg. (2* (2* lb., 4l 4t cups) cups) Butter Butter cream cream (see cREAMS). CREAMS).

PRALINE PRALINE (Confectionery) (Confectionery) -- Very Very delicate delicate sweet, an almond almond covered covered with with aa coating coating of of cooked sugar, sugar, variously variously flavoured flavoured and and coloured. coloured. The history history of of this this confection goes back back to the reign reign of

PRESENTOIR PRESENTOIR -- Dish Dish on on which which aa tureen, tureen, vegetable vegetable dish, dish, etc. rests. rests.

- The The art art of preserving preserving food food is extremely ancient, but it is only since the mid nineteenth nineteenth century century that that itit has has moved moved out out of of the the empirical empirical mid realm realm into into the the scientific. Since Since the earliest times man has has tried tried to guard against against famine famine by preserving preserving foods foods during their their season of abunabundance; dance; in in particular, particular, meat meat obtained obtained by by hunting. hunting. preserving food The The only only means means of ofpreserving food in in prehistoric prehistoric times times was This method method is still employed today, today, particularly particularly by drying. drying. This by in in Switzerland, Switzerland, where where beef beef is preserved preserved (Bindenfleiscft) (Bindenfleisch) in the the Grisons, strong pure pure air. Grisons, being being dried dried solely solely in in the the strong But knew how how to to use use fire fire to to cook cook meat, meat, he he very But once once man knew soon soon used used itit for for curing curing it. it. This This was was the the first first scientific scientific method method preserving. Having ofpreserving. Having noticed noticed the the effect effect that that fire fire had had on on meat, meat, of an an effect efTect which which altered its substance, substance, made made itit more more tasty tasty and easier easier to to masticate, masticate, the the possibility possibility dawned on primitive primitive man

PRBSERVATION PRESERV ATION OF OF FOOD. FOOD. coNsERvE CONSERVE

Louis XIII. XIII. At this this period, the the mar6chal maréchal duc duc de ChoiseulChoiseulPraslin divided his his time time between between the the battlefield and and the

boudoirs famous women. boudoirs of offamous women. He He had had already already established established quite quite a reputation reputation for for himself himself through through his his ingenuity ingenuity and and wit wit when when one one day day he he surpassed surpassed himself: himself: he he offered offered some sorne sweets sweets along along with with his his proposals. proposais. These These were were such such aa novelty novelty at at the the time time that that people people had had never never tasted tasted anything anything like them. them. His His friends friends besieged the marshal marshal for for the the recipe, recipe, pleading pleading with with him him at at the the besieged the same same time time to to part part with with some sorne more. more. When When they they asked asked what what the the delicacies delicacies were were called, called, the the duc duc de de Praslin Praslin was was unable unable to to put put aa name name to to them. them. 'I'1 leave leave itit to to you,'he you,' he said'to said 'to christen christen them.' them.' A voice rang out out in the the company, company, 'Prasline', 'Prasline', pronouncing pronouncing for voice rang the the first first time time a name na me that that was was to to become become famous famous throughout throughout the the world. world. The The head head of of mar6chal maréchal de de Praslin's Praslin's household household later later settled settled 732

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PRESERVATION OF FOOD PRESERVATION

in temperature, hot in in summer summer and to variations variations in and subject to hot which lead of the the bacon or or lead to condensation on on the the surface surface of which are and other evils. Cellars Cellars are in time time produce slime other evils. and in slime and ham and good A good air circulation.) A and lack lack adequate air often too damp and north is best. floor room facing north larder or unheated ground 1100r elaborate but but curing need not be elaborate The equipment for home curing knife, scales scales for for should include include aa boning boning knife, knife, aa carving carving knife, should for brining head head and and meat, aa large basin basin or or tub tub for weighing meat, depending on on the the type type floor, depending shelfor trotters, a curing trough, shelf or floor, thermometer. of cure, and aa th~:rnlornel:er. slate shelf shelf will will be be floor or stone or or brick brick floor or slate For dry salting aa stone with needed. If aa 'box' cure contemplated, aa strong strong box box with cure is is contemplated, needed. tubs or or barrels barrels for pickle cu curing, of wood wood and weights; for pieces of ring, tubs in the meat meat will will float float in suitable. It must be remembered remembered that the are suitable.1t (large c1ean will do) clean stones and boards with with weights weights (large do) the pickle and stones will as aa coyer. cover. must be provided as lead cures, aa stone stone or or lead combination of dry and and pickle cures, For aa combination of dry plug ho hole for drawing drawing oIT offthe trough is ideal, preferably with aa plug le for the be used. used. wooden and basins basins may be en troughs and liquor, but wood twine is being dried, meat hooks and When the meat is and strong twine greaseproofpaper clean needed and, for storage, storage, greaseproof will be needed paper and clean and, for muslin or calico. orcalico. preservation of consists Curing iD~:rellÜel1ts The preservation of meat meat consists ingredients -- The partly of impregnating itit with partly of drying tbe with aa and partly the meat meat and (somesufficiently high concentration of salt salt and and saltpetre (somesufficiently concentration of times times sugar as weil). well). sugar as in curing. Saltpetre isis Salt is the ingredient in curing. Saltpetre Salt is the really essential essential ingredient in not not aa substance for human human nutrition nutrition and, and, except except in substance required required for an irritant irritant or or aa small small concentrations, be regarded regarded as as an concentrations, could could be preservatives. Common poison, like Common salt, salt, weak weak poison, like many many other other preservatives. yet diITers the human human diet, diet, yet differs in ingredient of of the in being aa necessary necessary ingredient even aa or even in in high an irritant irritant or higb concentrations concentrations itit can can become become an qualities of poison. Sugar the poison. of the Sugar has has none none of of the the objectionable qualities other preservatives and soft help keep keep the the meat meat soft and isis supposed to to help other preservatives saltpetre. by by counteracting counteracting the effects of ofsaltpetre. the hardening eITects (mostly ace Curing tic acetic vinegar (mostly Curing ingredients ingredients also also include vinegar preservative (the essential acid), pepper (the has aa preservative acid), pepper essential oil oil probably has preserving eITect), effect), beer, beer, wines wines and and spirits (alcohol being aa preserving agent) wood smoke agent) and and wood smoke in which are found formaldehyde, alcohols, alcohols, tars, tars, creosote, creosote, etc. etc. preservative Fruits, practically no no preservative have practically Fruits, berries, berries, spices, spices, etc., etc., have eITect, contained essential oils oils contained apart from from sorne some of of the the acids acids or or essential effect, apart in flavour to the cured cured in them, add flavour to the main function function isis to to add them, and their main and their product. Cleansing fresh cut to cut isis to in treating treating aa fresh The first first operation operation in Cleensing -- The cleanse This brine. This in aa strong strong brine. short time time in for aa short cleanse itit by by dipping dipping itit for has full cure cure to to the full and allows allows the has several several advantages; advantages; itit isis rapid and be which wet salt salt surface surface which the wet be carried It provides the carried out out at at once. once. It starts the without the penetration of salt the meat meat without salt into into the starts the the penetration laborious down be watered watered down This brine brine can can be laborious process ofrubbing. of rubbing. This after pickling of small cuts cuts or or of smal! for the light pickling after cleansing and and used used for the Iight ooffal ITal (variety meats). meats). The prepared by dissolving 6 kg. (13 lb.) salt and The brine brine is prepared by dissoIVln.!! 100 (4 oz.) g. (4 in 23 23 litres litres (5 gallons, 6t gallons) oz) saltpetre saltpetre in 100 g. boiling boiling water. water. Mix Mix thoroughly, thoroughly, strain through aa cloth and cool e. (50°F.) (50'F.) or using. lower before before using. cool to to 10 even lower 10"C. or even The minutes, until until c1ean. clean. for 10 l0 minutes, immersed for The loin loin should should be be immersed The while in in the the and while hour, and The ham about 1I hour, ham will will require longer, about brine to the hock hock end end to from the be squeezed squeezed from brine the the large large veins should be the place the cut skin-side skin-side upwards upwards the eut the fillet fillet end. After cleansing, cleansing, place end. After to to drain, not allow to dry. dry. drain, but but do do not allow to pfukling -- Dilute Pickling ding itit to to of brine brine by by ad adding Dilute above above quantity of 77 litres (6 quarts, 7t quarts) water. as aa well and and use use as water. Stir Stir weil litres (6 pickling brine for head, trotters, tongue, etc. Salting - Weigh the meat and allow one-tenth of its weight petre required weight of salt. required isis oneonesaltpetre salt. The amount amount of of salt fortieth fortieth of weight of salt. of the the weight of salt. petre the Owing Owing to saltpetre the mixing mixing should should to the the smaH small amount amount of of salt

of of of delaying its decomposition decomposition by smoking it. il. This method of preserving, assisted by salting, is still used by a a preliminary salting, is still smoked today, and smoked and it is in this manner that that all ail hams hams and today, and meats are are prepared and preserved. preserving meat in those remote Freezing played a part in preserving Freezing days. There There was also salting, but only in regions near the sea where where rock salt was found. Fruit and vegetables were first preserved by drying in the sun or by the fire. Later, recourse was made to the system of l''n'vl''l,nninp' food substances in in fat. enveloping fat. Although rather imperprocedure is still used today to preserve, for a limited fect, this procedure put in period, period, meat meat which which has has first first been in fat, fat, put been cooked cooked in covered entirely with stoneware pots and covered stoneware with fat. Once congealed it makes an almost completely airtight cover. The basic ways ways of canning and and i.e., canning The basic of preserving food, i.e., bottling, freezing, freezing, salting and dehydrating dehydrating are still in use, but processes. The modern methods methods have have revolutionised modern revolutionised the the processes. preservation of food in the factory factory is well as as in food in the home as as weil very important. veryimportant. CANNING EN BOITE CANNING AND BOTTLING. CONSERVATION BoIrE -coNsERvArroN EN The process of hermetically hermetically sealing food for future use was invented in 1795 invented I 795 by a a Frenchman, Nicholas Appert. In I 8 10 a patent was taken out in in England for Appert's method and from there it quickly spread to America, where lobsters and salmon were were the first first foods preserved in this way. In 1823 Thomas can for for Thomas Kensett, the tin tin can Kensett, an an American, invented invented the packing food, fish, vegetables and and food, including meat, meat, poultry, fish, fruit. Glass containers, cans are now containers, earthenwarejars earthenware jars and tin cans used in commercial and home canning and bottling. This method of process whereby whereby of preservation is basically aa process the action ofmoulds, food bacteria that spoil fresh food of moulds, yeasts and bacteria is stopped by long enough enough to to to high higb heat heat long by subjecting them to as poultry, meat and and stop the action. Most vegetables as as weil well as (10alkg. (10processed in pressure canners under under aa 4}kg. fish must must be processed lb.) pressure at 115°e. (240"F.). Most fruits are I l5'C. (240°F). and tomatoes tomatoes are fruits and processed processed in varieties of of bath. Several Several varieties water bath. in aa boiling water containers are seals and and or seals are used; all are are equipped with covers or directions to make the containers airtight. With the advent of advent of freezers, home canning ofpoultry, rare, is now rare, of poultry, meat and fish is but canning and bottling of quite fruit isis still still quite of vegetables and and fruit common. CURING. SALAISON an ancient ancient The curing curing of of meat meat isis an sALArsoN -- The practice. practice. Cato of ham Cato the Censor for the salting salting ofham Censor gives aa recipe for which goes back fourteenth by the the fourteenth B.C. In In England, by back to 200 200 B.e. century, it was be without without bacon. bacon. was indeed aa sign ofpoverty of poverty to to be Until the middle of the and ham ham century bacon bacon and the nineteenth century cou Id only be of cooling cooling could When aa method method of be cured cured in the winter. When curing be curing cellars with was introduced, began to to be curing began with ice ice was introduced, curing carried year round. refrigeration, carried out round. Mechanical Mechanical refrigeration, out ail all the the year introduced the introduced in in 1877, was the the beginning of of the in Britain Britain in 1877, was modern whole modern curing curing industry, industry, which which revolutionised the whole approach. The success success of largely depends on the the extent extent of home home curing curing largely depends on to premises can for the the to which which unspecialised be adapted adapted for unspecialised premises can be purpose. The of The ideal should have have aa temperature temperature of ideal curing room should e. (38' and free circulation circulation of of between 3° 3' and l0'C. and 50'F.), aa free and 10 fresh light has has aa bad bad fresh cool as light cool air means of of darkening, as air and and aa means effect al. Most in cellars are are even even in effect on fat of the me meat. Most cellars on the the fat of the tennJ)(!ratUl:eand provided they are not not too too damp. damp. temperature and are they are are suitable suitable provided temperature For drying which keeps keeps aa temperature drying the best room room is is one one which the best of (60'F.), preferably preferably with The air. The current of of air. of about about 15°e. l5'C. (60°F.), with aa current ceiling fire, or or of of aa passage ceiling of not too too near near the the fire, of aa large kitchen kitchen not leading from for this from the kitchen, kitchen, is is good for this purpose. Rooms in which there water tank may may be be used, if the meat is not there is is aa hot hot water placed heat. placed too too near near the the source source of ofheat. For light and steady and steady For storage storage the oflight the essentials essentials are are absence absence of though (Most attics too attics are are too thougb not not necessarily low temperature. necessarily low temperature. (Most

0

0

733 733

PRESERVATION OF OFFOOD FOOD PRESERVATION be very thorough. To ensure this, use dry, sieved salt. Divide be very thorough. To ensure this, use dry, sieved salt. Divide into tmee three equal partsand equal parts and add addtotoeach each the the appropriate appropriate itit into amount of ofcru crushed and sieved sievedsaltpetre. pileof saltpetre. Mix Mix each each pile salt ofsalt amount shed and andsaltpetre saltpetre thorougbly thorouehly and andsift sift the themixture, mixture, but butdo do not not mix mix and the three piles of threepiles ofcuring curing mixture, mixture, asas one one will will be beused usedfor for the rubbing in, in, one one for for sprinkling sprinkling and and the the last last for forsprinkling sprinkling atat rubbing the time of rebedding. the time ofrebedding. Drain the thec1eansing cleansing brine brine from from the thecut cut and, and, using using one-tbird one-third Drain of the thecuring curing mixture, mixture, rub rub thoroughly thoroughly tirst first on on the theskin skin side, side, of forcing some some of of itit down down the the shank shank of of the the ham, ham, then then rub rub the the forcing flesh side lightly. tlesh side lightly.

article isis taken takenfrom from Bulletin BulletinNo. No. J127 ofthe theMinistry Ministrv of of article 27 of Agricultureand and Fisheries.) Fisheries.) Agriculture

DEHYDRATION. DESSICCATION orssrccArroN - - Evaporation Evaporation of water ofwater DEHYDRATION. from foods foods isisanother another time-bonoured time-honoured technique techniquewhicb which bas hasaa from modern developrnent, development, bul but except exceptinin time time of of war, war, when when modem dehydrated foods foods are areused used extensively extensivelybecause becauseof of the the small small dehydrated shipping space spac€ Ibey they take, take, foods processed by foods processed by canning canning or shipping or freezing are are more more acceptable, acceptable, both both for for reasons reasonsoftlavour of flavour and and freezing qualities. Comparatively keeping qualities. of keeping Comparatively few dehydrated foods few debydrated of foods are sold sold extensively. extensively. Exceptions Exceptions to to this this are are dried dried fruits fruits are (raisins, prunes, prunes, apricots, peaches, pears, apricots, peaches, p€ars, etc.), (dried 10 etc.), milk milk (dried to (raisins, soluble powder powder which which isis used used for for reconstituted reconstituted milk milk inin aa soluble liquid form form and and for for cake cake and and bread 'mixes') and bread 'mixes') potatoes. and potatoes. liquid Dried whoJe whole eggs eggs can can be be successfully successfully used used and and egg egg whites whites can can Dried be dried dried and and used used for for meringues meringues and and icings. icings. be

Prepare aa bed bed of (2 inches) of salt salt about about 55cm. crn. (2 inches) thick press thick and and press Prepare down the the cut into it, cut into skin side it, skin side down. down. Sprinkle Sprinkle lightly lightly with with the the down second third of the curing mixture. Cover the cut entirely with second third of the curing mixture. Coyer tbe cut entirely with 2lto cm. (1(l to to 22 inches) inches) salt, salt, taking taking care pack the care to to pack the salt salt 2! to 55 cm. tightly (The meat tends to shrink and draw away at sides. (The the sides. tightly at the meat tends to shrink and draw away from the the salt, salt, causing causing the the surface surface to to become become dry dry and and the the from salting uneven.) salting uneven.) After five five days, days, break pack, rem break the the pack, remove any discoloured discoloured After ove any salt and repack the the cut, cut, sprinkling sprinkling as as before before with with the the salt and repack remainder of the curing mixture. remainder of the curing mixture. Different cuts cuts should should bç kept in in salt periods, salt for for varying varying periods, Q kept Different depending oq their thickndss. Ham is usually kept in salt 6 to depending on their thickness. Ham is usually kept in salt 6 to days Wr 2+ cm. (1 inch) of thickness. In the case of several 77 days per 2t cm. (l inch) of thickness. ln the case of several cuts beingcured, care should be taken to repack the salt after cuts being cured, care should be taken to repack the salt after each removal of meat. each removal ofmeat. lVashing and maturation - Rernove meat from the salt bed, Washlng and mllturation - Remove meat from the salt bed, wash the the surface surface in in cold cold water, water, or leave the the harn or leave ham or bacon in or bacon in wash the room where it has been salted for a further period of 2 to 4 the room where it bas been salted for a furtber period of2 to 4 weeks, to enable the salt and saltpetre to go on penetrating, weeks, to enable the salt and salt petre to go on penetrating, until enough curing curing mixture has been mixture has prevent the been absorbed absorbed to the until enough to prevent growth of undesirable During this the undesirable bacteria. bacteria. During this period period the groWlh of maturation and continues continues through the subsequent subsequent through the maturation begins hegins and operations of of drying, smoking and and slorage. storage. After After this this drying, smoking operations preliminary maturation, wash offexcess salt from the surface preliminary maturation, wash off excess salt from the surface of meat, soaking soaking it in aa little little cold cold water overnight, if if of the the meat, it in water overnight, n€c€ssary. necessary. Drying Drying -- Hang Hang the the meat meat in in aa warm warrn place place with with aa temperatemperature ture of of about about 15"C. 15°e. (60'F.), (60°F.), not not exceeding2l"C. exceeding 21°e. (70'F.). (70°F). As As the drying proceeds, the drying proceeds, aa white white surface surface layer layer of of crystalline crystalline salt salt appears, appears, but but if if the the washing washing has has been been thorough, thorough, this tbis is is not not excessive. Where it is difficult to obtain dry storage conditions excessive. Where it is difficult to obtain dry storage conditions particularly itit is important to is particularly important to remove remove this this surface surface salt, salt, as as it il attracts a ttracts moisture. moisture. Smoking Smoking -- This This should should be be considered considered as as an an alternative alternative method method of of drying. drying. In ln addition, addition, however, however, smokingintroduces smoking introduces preservatives and flavouring substances preservatives and flavouring substances into into the the meat. meat. Smoking at aa temperature temperature below below 32"C. 3re. Smoking should should be be carried carried out out at (90'F.), otherwise the fat will melt, and it is essential to ensure (90°F.), otherwise tbe fat will melt, and il is essential to ensure that that sufficient sufficient moisture moisture has has been been removed removed from from the tbe bacon bacon or or ham. bam. Storage - This should be, as far as possible, in the dark, at a Stofage- This should be, as far as possible, in the dark, at a temperature tempe rature of of about about 15'C. 15°e. (60"F.), (60°F.), but but itit does does no no harm harm to to store at lower temperatures provided variations are avoided. store at lower temperatures provided variations are avoided. Should the temperature the of meat surface Should the temperature of tbe meat surface at at any any time time be be below below the the dewpoint, dewpoint, aa film film of ofmoisture moisture will will be be deposited deposited and and the value of the drying process will be partly lost. the value of the drying process will be partly lost. IfIfbacon bacon and and hams hams can can be be kept kept under under dry dry conditions, conditions, they they may hung up up without without any any covering. covering. Added Added protection protection isis may be be hung supplied by wrapping the paper supplied by wrapping tbe meat meat in in paper or or cloth c10th and and surrounding take up willtake up moismoissurrounding with with some sorne substance substance which which will ture turefrom from the Iheair, air,such suchas askiln-dried kiln-driedsalt salt(so (solong longas asititdoes doesnot not come come into into actual actual contact contact with with the the meat), meat), slaked slaked lime, lime, charcoal, wood ashes, charcoal, wood ashes,malt malt culms, culms,dried driedoat oathulls hullsor oroat oalmeal meal (provided it is free from mites). Cured meat may be stored by (provided il is free from mites). Cured meal may be stored by hanging hanging up up in in clean clean linen linen or or calico calico bags, bags, lime-washing Iime-washing the the bags bags two two or or three three times. times. (With (With acknowledgement acknowledgement to 10 the the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office. Part Part of ofthis this Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Offce.

FREEZING. SURGéLATION suncfi,lnoN -- Frozen Frozen foods properly foods wb when FREEZlNG. en properly processed resemble resemble the the fresh fresh variety variety more more closely closely than than foods foods processed preserved by by any any other other method, preserved food method, although although no no preserved food preserved can daim claim equality equality with with absolutely absolutely fresh fresh food. food. Freezing Freezing in in ice ice can an ancient practice, but ancient practice, but the the modern quick modern method method of of quick isis an freezing plays plays aa major gastronomy in major role in gastronomy role in in both both commercial commercial freezing and domestic domestic areas. areas. To To have have complete complete success, suoeess, food food must must he be and used when when at peak, packaged at its its peak, packaged so as 10 to exclude so as exclude al! all air air and and used quickly and frozen as as quickly and thoroughly as possible. Su as possible. Such food is frozen ch food stored at (0'F.). at -- 18°C. l8'C. (O°F.). slored Home freezers freezers are used for storage of commercially commercially frozen Home products, produce produce oftbe garden, orcbard of the garden, orchard or farm, meat, fisb, fish, products, pies, cakes and breads, pies, and ice creams, dairy products and and prebreads, cooked meat and vegetable vegetable dishes. meat and dishes. Weil Well planned use use of a cooked home freezer is a great great boon to the modern housewife. housewife. Most borne frozen foods sbould should be consumed consumed within within one year of being frozen processed. Some foods do not retain their good quality so processed. Sorne long. long. The following should not be stored in a freezer longer than four months: than four monlhs: ham ham;; bacon; duck; goose; rich fish like salmon; (variety meats) or sausage. sausage. salmon; offal offal (variety Meat-Properly meat are Meat- Properly aged aged and and trimmedcuts lrimmed cuts of ofmeat are packed packed in in heavy'freezer'paper. heavy 'freezer' paper. Pork Pork should be be used used within within about about 4 months months but other other meats meats (beef, (beef, veal veal and and lamb) lamb) may be he kept a year. Ifthe package year.lfthe package isis neither neither heavy heavy nor nor tight tight enough, enough, 'freezer burn'will burn' will develop. develop. Pouttry Poultry and and gamegame - Chicken, Chicken, ducks, ducks, wild game game and and rabbits rabbits to to be be cooked whole should sbould be be cleaned cleaned and trussed trussed before before freezing. freezing. Giblets Giblels are wrapped wrapped in in freezer freezer paper paper and stored in in the the body body cavity. cavily. Small birds may may be he cut cul up up (iointed) Uointed) and wrapped wrapped in in small srn~lI packages. packages. Fish Fisb - Fish Fish should should be be chilled, chilled, cleaned cleaned and and washed washed before before freezing. eut into inlo freezing. Small Small fish tisb are are frozen frozen whole; whole; large large fish fish are are cut steaks steaks or or filleted. fiJleted. It lt is is important important to to freeze fish fish as as soon soon as as possible possible after after itit isis caught. caught. Vegetables VegetllblesSornevegetables vcgetables freeze freeze more more successfully successfullythan than - Some others. others. All Ali vegetables vegetables must must be be blanched blanched in in boiling boiling water water or or steam steam before before freezing. freezing. Following Following is is aa representative represenlative list lisl of of vegetables vegetables with with instructions instructions for for home bome processing processing and and freezfreezing. ing. The The vegetables vegetables are are packed packed inin airtight airtight plastic plasticcontainers. containers. PRESS. PRESS. pREssE PRESSE -- Culinary Culinary implement implement serving serving to to extract extract by by pressure pressure fruit fruitjuice, juice, or orthe Ibejuice juicefrom from the thecarcase carcase of ofaa fowl fowl or or of ofaapiece pieceof ofcooked cooked meat. meat. According 10 their their use use (iuice (juice press, press, lemon lemon squeezer, squeezer, etc.) etc.) According to these Ihesepresses pressestake takevarious variousforms. forms. PRESS. PRESS. FouLER FOULER*- Pressing Pressing aa pur6e purée or orsome some other other substance substance through throughaastrainer st rainerwith withaawooden wooden spoon. spoon. PRESSLJRE PRESSURECOOKER COOKER-- AApressure pressurecooker cookerisismade madeininsizes sizes ranging rangingfrom from I Jquart quartto10several severalgallons'capacity gallons' capacityand andisisused used for for cooking cooking meats, meats, poultry, poultry, fish, fish, vegetables, vegetables, fruits, fruits, soups, soups, puddings, fraction of ofthe thetime limeofofthe theconventional conventional puddings,etc,, etc.,atalaafraction

734 734

PRESERVATION PRESER VATION OF FOOD HOM E FREEZING FREEZING OF VEGETA BLES VEGETABLES HOME Vegetable

Prepara/ion Preparation

Asparagus Asparagus

Select Select young, tender stalks. Sort according to thickness ofstalk. thickness of stalk. Wash and discard discard tough lengths sections. Leave in lengths to fit package or eut cut into pieces. pieces.

Beans, Broad, Lima, Kidney Kihey

Bewts, Beans, French,

kuner Runner

Blanching lime time in boiling warer water Sm ail stalks,2 Small stalks, 2 minutes; medium, 3 minutes; minutes; medium,3

Processing Blanch, Blanch, cool, drain and pack. pack. When packing

large,4minutes. large, 4 minutes.

alternate lips tips and spears spears alternale stem ends.

Select well-filled pods. Select well-filled Beans should be ripe but Beans not nol starchy meaIy. starchy or mealy. Shell, wash and sorl sort according to size.

Small, 2 minutes; minutes; medium, 3 minutes; minutes; medium,3 large, large,44 minutes.

Blanch, cool and drain. Blanch, Pack into containers, seal seai freeze. and freeze.

youn& tender Select Select young,

3 minutes.

Blanch, Blanch, cool and drain. freeze. Pack, seal and freeze.

beans. Wash, cut off offstem Wash, cul stem and tips. Leave whole, slice or eut cut into pieces. slice pieces.

Pack, seal and freeze.

Bee/rool Beetroot

Select beetroots Select beetroots not more than 7~cm. 7}cm. (3 inches) inches) Wash and sort across. Wash according to size. Trim tops,leaving tops, leaving 11cm. cm. (1 $ stems. Cook in inch) of of stems. boiling water until tender small beets 30 to 35 -- small minutes, medium size 45 to 50 minutes. Cool, peel, cut into slices or cubes. eut

Broccoli

Selecl tight, compact, Select tight, dark-green heads with tender stalks. Wash Wash and tender trim. To remove remove insects, soak for 30 minutes in a solution of 4 solution made of 4| litres teaspoons teaspoons salt to 4ilitres (4 quarts, 5 quarts) cold water. Split into sprigs.

3 minutes.

Blanch, cool and drain. Blanch, Pack leaving leaving no headspace.Sealand headspace. Seal and freeze. fteze.

Cabbage

Wash weil well and shred. Wash

2 minutes.

Blanch, Blanch, cool thoroughly and drain drain weil. well. Pack, seal and freeze. freeze.

CarrOIS Carrots

Select tender carrots. Select tender Remove Remove tops, wash and peel. Leave small small carrots whole. Cut others others into cubes, thin slices or small cubes, strips.

Whole carrots (small), 5 minutes; cu bes, slices cubes, or strips, strips, 2 minutes.

Blanch, cool and drain. Blanch, Pack, seal and freeze.

Cauliflower Caulifiower

Select tender, snowSelect firm, tender, into white heads. Break ioto If sprigs. Wash well. weil. If spri5. Wash necessary to ta remove rem ove necessary insects, soak for 30 solution minutes in a solution minutes made of of 4 teaspoons leaspoons salt 4| litres (4 quarts, 5 to 4~ quarts) cold water. Drain.

minutes. 3 minutes.

Blanch, cool and drain. leaving no Pack leaving headspace.Sealand headspace. Seal and freeze. freeze.

735

PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF OF FOOD Vegetable Vegelable

Preparation Prepara/ion

Blanching Blanching time time in in boiling boiling water wa/er

Corn-on-the-cob Corn-on-Ihe-cob

Trim Trim offleaves offleaves and and sort sort according according to to size. size.

Small Small ears, ears, 44 minutes; minutes; medium, medium, T7 minutes; minutes; large, large, 99 minutes. minutes.

Mushrooms Mushrooms

Wash Wash and and trim. trim. Soak Soak 55 minutes minutes in in 4dl. 4dl. (}pint, (:1 pint, 22 cups) cups) water water with with 11 teaspoon teaspoon lemon lemon juice. juice.

Steam Steam 33 minutes minutes for for small small or or sliced sliced mushrooms, mushrooms, 55 minutes minutes for for large large whole whole ones. ones.

Cool, Cool, pack, pack, seal seal and and freeze. freeze.

Okra Okra

Select Select young young tender tender gxeen green pods. pods. Wash Wash thoroughly. thoroughly.

Small Small pods pods 33 minutes; minutes; large large pods pods 44 minutes. minutes.

Blanch, and drain. drain. Blanch, cool cool and Leave Leave whole whole or or slice slice crosswise. Pack, seal seal and and crosswise. Pack, freeze. freeze.

Itminutes. 1i minutes.

Blanch, Blanch, cool cool and and drain. drain. Pack, Pack, seal seal and and freeze. freeze.

Halves,3 Halves, 3 minutes; minutes; slices, slices, 22 minutes. minutes.

Blanch, and drain. drain. Blanch, cool cool and Pack,leaving Pack, leaving I1cm. cm. (}inch) (~inch) headspace. headspace. Seal Seal and and freeze. frceze. Unblartched Unblanched peppers peppers-- pack pack leaving leaving no Store for for no headspace. headspace. Store 33 months months only. only.

remove remove silks. silks. Wash, Wash, and and

Cut Cut offstems. off stems.

Peas

Select plump, firm firm pods pods Select plump, with with sweet, swcet, tender tender peas. peas.

Processing Processing

Blanch, Blanch, cool cool thoroughly thoroughly and and drain. drain. Pack Pack ears ears in in

containers containers or or wrap wrap in in moisture-vapourmoisture-vapourresistant resistant material. material. Seal Seal and and freeze. frceze.

Shell and sort sort out out tough tough Shell and

or or immature immature peas. peas. Peppers Peppers

Peppers Peppers frozen frozen without without heating heating are are best best for for use use in in uncooked uncooked foods. foods. Blanched Blanched peppers peppers are are easier easier to to pack pack and and good good

for for use use in in cooking. cooking. Select Select

firm, firm, crisp, crisp, thick-walled thick-walled peppers.Wash, cut in peppers. Wash,cutin half, half, cut cut out out stems stems and and remove remove seeds. seeds. IfIfdesired, desired, cut cut in in strips strips or or rings. rings. Tomatoes TomalOes

Wash, Wash, sort sort and and trim, tri m, and and cut cut up up the the tomatoes. tomatoes. Simmer Simmer for for 55to to l0 \0 minutes. minutes. Press Press through through aa

Fill Fill containers, containers, leaving leaving I1cm. cm. $inch) (~inch) headspace. headspace. Seal and freeze. freeze. Whole Whole Seal and unblanched unblanched tomatoes tomatoes can can be be stored stored for for 33months. months.

sieve. sieve. Ifdesired, If desired, add add I1

teaspoon teaspoon salt salt to to each each generous generous litre litre (2 (2 pints, pints, 2| 2~

pints) pints) ofjuice of juice for for seasoning. seasoning. Fruits Fruits-- Some Some fruits fruits such such as as apples, apples, apricots apricots and and peaches peaches darken darken when when frozen. frozen. To To prevent prevent this this the the fruit fruit isis packed packed in in aa sugar sugar syrup syrup and and aa little little ascorbic ascorbic acid acid (Vitamin (Vitamin C) C) isis added. added. Following Followingisis aa representative representative list list of of fruits fruits that thal can can be be frozen. frozen. AA 40 40 per percent cent syrup syrup contains con tains 300 300g. g. (l(IlI oz., OZ., lj 1 cups) cups) sugar sugarto to 66dl. dl. (l(1 pint, pint, 2| 2icups) cups) water. water. AA 50 50 per per cent cent syrup syrup contains contains 450 450 g. g. (l(l lb., lb., 22cups) cups) sugar sugarto 10 66dl. dl. (l(1 pint, pint, 2t 2~cups) cups) water. water. AA 60 60 per percent cent syrup syrupcontains con tains 700 700 g.g. (l(1 lb. lb. 99 o2.,3 OZ., 3cups) cups) to to 66dl. dl. (l(1 pint, pint, 2| 2icups) cups) water. water.

*

HOME HOMEFREEZING FREEZING OF OFFRUIT FRUIT Fruit Fruit

Preparation Preparation

Processing Processing

Apples Apples

Select Select crisp, crisp, firm fion apples. apple-~. Wash, Wash,peel peeland and core. core. Slice Slice medium medium apples applesinto intotwelfths, twelfths, larger largersizes sizesinto into sixteenths. sixteenths. Blanch Blanch I1minute. minute. Use Use40 40per percent cent syrup. syrup. For Foraa better betterquality qualityproduct productadd add|teaspoon t teaspoonascorbic ascorbic acid acid to toeach each generous generouslitre litre(2 (2pints, pints, 2| 2ipints) pints)syrup. syrup.

Pack Packwell weIl and andcover coyerwith with syrup. syrup. l,eave Leaveheadspace, headspace, seal seal and and fteeze. freeze.

Apple Applesauce sauce

Select Select full-flavoured full-Ilavoured apples. apples. Wash, Wash, peel peel ififdesired, desired,core core and andslice. slice. Add Add aalittle !ittlewater. water. Cook Cookuntil untiltender. tender. Cool Cool and andstrain strainor orliquidise. liquidise. Sweeten Sweetentototaste. tas te.

Pack Packinto intocontainers, containers, leave leaveheadspace, headspace,seal sealand and fteeze. freeze.

736

PRETZEL PRETZEL Fruit

Preparation

Processing

Apricots

Select Select firm, ripe, uniformly-coloured fruit. Sort, wash, halve halve and stone. Peel and slice if if desired. desired. If If not peeled, heat in boiling water skins from water ft minute minute to keep skins toughening during du ring freezing. freezing. Cool Cool and and drain. Use 40 toughening percent darkening, addt syrup.To per cent syrup. To keep from darkening, add.t generous litre (2 pints, teaspoon each generous teaspoon ascorbic ascorbic acid to each 2| 2t pints) syrup. Can Can also be frozen frozen crushed crushed or pur6ed. puréed. For cru Use fully iipe crushed ripe fruit. For shed apricots, heat in water It minute, minute, cool and peel. Stone and crush. crush. boiling water quarter and press For pur6e, For purée, stone, quarter press through through a sieve sieve or liquidise; or heat apricots in small amounts ofwater of water and press press through through sieve sieve or liquidise. With each generous litre (2 pints, 2f 2t pints) prepared prepared apricots mix generous Add i+ teaspoon teaspoon ascorbic 225 g. (8 oz., I1 cup) sugar. Add q,rp) tablespoons, scant *t cup) acid dissolved dissolved in I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, water to fruit fruit before adding sugar.

coyer with syrup, Pack, cover leave headspace. Seal and freeze. freeze.

Berries

Select ripe juicy berries. Sort, wash and Select firm, fully ripe drain weil. raspberries or strawberries well. Do not wash raspberries necessary. unless necessarv.

berries into Pack berries cover with containers and coyer syrup, 40 or 50 per cent syrup, depending on sweetness sweetness depending of fruit. Leave headspace. of Seal and freeze. Can also be open frozen and then packed with or without packed sugar.

Cherries

Select tree-ripened cherries. cherries. Stem, sort and Select bright red, tree-ripened wash. Drain.

Pack cherries cherries into cover with containers and coyer cold 60 per cent syrup. Or pack open freeze and then pack mixed with sugar in the quarter proportion of of a quarter of fruit. the weight of

Peaches Peaches and

Select Select firm, ripe, well-coloured well-coloured fruit. Wash, stone (pit) Cover and peel. Cut into halves, quarters or slices. Coyer with 40 per cent syrup. To prevent darkening, add teaspoon ascorbic ascorbic acid for each generous litre ft teaspoon 2| pints) syrup. (2 pints, 2~

Seal and freeze.

Plums and and prunes

Wash, cut in halves or in Select Select firm, ripe fruit. Wash, quarters and stone. Pack cut fruit into containers. Coyer with cold 40 or 50 per cent syrup Cover fruit with fruit. For improved improved quality, depending tartness of of fruit. depending on tartness ascorbic acid to each generous litre add tI teaspoon teaspoon ascorbic (2 pints, 2t 2{ pints) syrup.

Leave headspace. Seal freeze. Can be frozen and freeze. purée. as cooked pur6e.

Rhubarb

Select firm, tender, well-coloured well-coloured stalks with good 2lto flavour to 5 flavour and few fibres. Wash, Wash, trim and cut into 2t (l to 2 inch) pieces or in lengths lengths to fit the package. cm. (1 Blanching for 1I minute and cooling Blanching in boiling boiling water for promptly helps retain colour colour and flavour.

Pack either raw or rhubarb into blanched blanched rhubarb containers, and coyer cover with cold 40 per cent syrup. Leave headspace. freeze. Can be Seal and freeze. frozen without syrup.

nectarines nectarines

baked in the shape of a loose knot, hard, sprinkled with salt and cumin seeds. Pretzels are served with beer. Prepare separately the paste and the liquid for cooking cooking the Prepare separately pretzels. Paste. Allow 2t 2| dl. dl. (scant -tI pint, generous cup) water for Pasle. (l oz.) yeast, yeast,2lteaspoons 500g. flour,25 o2.,4|cups) g. (18 oz., 4t cups) flour, 25 g. (1 2t teaspoons 500 paste salt and 4 teaspoons and teaspoons caraway seed. seed. Make Make aa stiff pas te and salt knead it weil. well. Leave to rise for for 30 30 minutes in aa warm warm place, knead covered with a cloth. (scant pint, pint, 2* Liquid. 55 dl. dl. (scant 2| cups) cups) water, water, 22 teaspoons teaspoons. Liquid. bicarbonate soda, soda, 1lfi teaspoons teaspoons carbonate 0off ammonia. bicarbonate

cooking methods. cooking cooker is also used for canning. methods. A pressure cooker The food is cooked under pressures ranging from 3;13f; pounds to most often to 20 20 pounds but 15 pounds. Ali All air often under under 15 but most air is expelled and building expelled under under steam before capping ventand building up steam before capping the vent pressure. Heat pressure cooker the pressure. Heat within within the the cooker can can reach the pressure 250°F 250'F thus causing causing food to be cooked more more quickly.

PR0TRE -- Small sea PRtTRE sea fish about the size size of aa smelt, lOto l0 to 18 cm. (4 to 7 inches) long, with a silvery silvery star-shaped star-shaped mark on its sides. Its flesh is delicate. PRETZEL. BRETZEL -- German and Aisa PRETZEL. tian sa vou ry biscui biscuit,t, Alsatian savoury 737 73'1

PRICKLY PEAR PRICKL y PEAR

profiteroles Preparing Preparing profiteroles (Maison Desmeuzes. (Maison Desneuzes. Phol. Phot.Larousse) Itrousse)

(Pitisserie) -- Little PROFITEROLE paste Little balls PROFITEROLE (Pâtisserie) balls of of Chou Chou paste (see DOUGH) (see piped through DOUGH) piped forcing-bag. through aa forcing-bag. After After cooking, cooking, they filled with with various various substa.nces; substances; they are are filled game or game pur6e, cheese or other other purée, cheese mixtures, mixtures, etc.; etc.; or or with with sweet sweet jams, etc. custards, custards, jams, etc. Profiteroles, Profiteroles, filled filled with with vanilla vanilla custard custard and and iced iced with with caramelised caramelised SYruP, syrup, are for making are used uoquembouches used for making croquembouches (q.v.) and (q.v.) gateaux Saint-Honoré (q.v.). and gateaux Saint-Honor6 (q.v.). Profiteroles garnish soup. Profiteroles with with aa savoury filling are savoury filling are used to garnish soup. used to Profiteroles Profiteroles are are forced forced through through aa forcing forcing bag round bag with with aa round nozzle nozzle on on to to aa baking baking tin. They are tin. They with egg are brushed brushed with egg and and baked in in aa moderate moderate oyen. oven. Garnish profiteroles with (see Garnish the pasny cream tbe profiteroles wlf"h French cream (see French pastry CREAMS) CREAMS) or or sweetened sweetened whipped whipped cream. cream. Arrange Arrange in in aa

pretzels, and Making pretzels. and the the finished finished article article Making

paste the pas pretzels and into pretzels plunge them and plunge Shape the te into them into into the the boiling liquid. They They will fall pan. Wh fall to the boiling en the bottom botrom of of the the pan. When they rise rise to to the the surface, put them surface, dry? dry, put they them on on aa baking baking sheet, sheet, sea salt, sprinkle with coarse sea salt, brush brush with with beaten egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle seeds. and bake in the oyen. with cumin seeds, oven.

Prickly Prickly pear pear

PRICKLY PRICKL y PEAR. PEAR. FIGUIER FrcurER DE BARBARIE BARBARTE -- Cactus with edible fruit, which generally eaten raw but can be stewed. which is generally

PRIMEUR -- Fruit, vegetable vegetable or or any any other foodstuff obob,

tained before before the normal normal season season ofits tained of its maturity.

PRINCESSE (A (À LA) LA) -- Name Name for for various preparations various preparations in cookery cookery and and pastry-making. pastry-making. in The garnish garnish known known as as princesse, princesse, composed composed of The of green and truffles, is is chiefly chiefly used used to to accompany asparagus tips tips and asparagus Suprêmes of of chicken chicken (see (see CHICKEN). Suprdmes

Profiteroles Profiteroles

pyramid on aa dessert dessert platter and and pour Chocolate ovet Chocolate sauce sauce over (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

PRINTANIER, pRrNrl|.rrtRg PRINTANIÈRE - A mixture of PRINTANIER. pnmuMER, vegetables, scooped scooped out in the shape of little balls balls with with a vegetables,

special vegetable vegetable baller, or cut into dice or lozenges, cooked special separa tel y in in water water and and dressed dressed with butter. butter. separately The term term dà la la printaniire printanière is applied to various various dishes, dishes, but The

PROVENÇALE (A LA) PROVENQALE (À LA) -- Describes Describes certain preparations certain preparations characterised by garlic mixed, by the the use use of of tomato tomato and and garlic mixed, and and sometimes sometimes of of garlic alone. alone.

vegetables.

PROVENCE, COMTÉ COMTE DE DE NICE I\IICE -- Garlic Garlic is is the the base base of of

mainly to to meat meat entries entrées garnished gamished with with early early or or mixed mainly

738 738

PROVENCE. COMTÉ COMTE DE DE NICE NICE PROVENCE, almost ail all Provençal Provengal dishes, dishes, but but itit must must be be remembered remembered that that almost garlic has the Midi Midi garlic has not not such such aa strong strong taste taste or or such such aa bitter bitter the flavour as as that that of of the the northern northern districts. districts. flavour Culinary specialities. specialities. Among Among aa long long list list of of Provençal Provengal dishes dishes Culinary are are garlic ; aïgo-saou Soups : garlic; (a kind aig o- s aou (a kind of of bouillabaisse b ouillabarsse with with white white Soups: fish, the the fish fish used used being being eaten eaten with with aïoli aioli or or other other sauce); sauce); fish, conger; aïgo-bouido aigo-bouido with poached eggs; with poached eggs; mariage, mariage, aa very very thick thick conger; soup made made ofbeef, of beef, mutton mutton orchicken or chicken stock stock and andrice;pouline, rice; poutine, soup made with with tiny tiny fish (a minute fish fry; fry ;nonats nonats (a minute Mediterranean Mediterranean fish), fish), made in the the region region of pistou, whicb Nice; pistou, of Nice; which contains contains French French beans, beans, in potatoes, tomatoes tomatoes and and vermicelli, vermicelli, and and isis finished finished with with an an potatoes, aillade of ofbasil grated cheese. and grated cheese. aillade basil and Fish: bouillabaisse; bouillabaisse; bourride, bourride, aa kind kind of of bouillabaisse bouillabause made made Fish: part of with white white fish, fish, but but without without saffron saffron seasoning. seasoning. Part of the the with liquid serves servcs to to soak soak slices put in slices ofbread ofbread put in aa dish; dish; the the rest, rest, with with liquid (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 yolk per tablespoons) aïoli per person, person, aiblf and and 1I egg egg yolk 22 tablespoons prepare aa sauce is used used to to prepare poured over sauce which which is is poured over the the slices slices of of is bread. bread. Fish is is eaten eaten with with aïoli, aibli, aa kind kind of mayonnaise made of mayonnaise made with with Fish garlic purée, pur6e, allowing, person, 1I large per person, garlic, allowingo per large whole clove garlic, whole clove garlic yolk, salt, egg yolk, (6 tablespoons, salt, 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant tI cup) cup) oil oil and and aa 1I egg juice. little lemon lemon juice. little Dried salt salt cod cod en grilled red en rayte; rayte; grilled red mullet mullet with with fennel; Dried (a macédoine sartafugnano (a macCdoine of of little little fish fish cooked cooked in in oil oil in in the the sartadagnano fryrng pan, pan, pressed pressed together together in in cooking cooking so so that that they can can be be frying turned like like aa pancake, pancake, sprinkled sprinkled with with hot hot vinegar vinegar on on the the turned plate). olate).

Stockfish, belonging particularly to belonging more more particularly to the the region region of of Stockfish, Nice, isis dried dried salt salt cod, cod, hard hard as as wood, wood, and and needing needing long long Nice, soaking before before use; use; aa kind kind of of stew stew made made with with stockfish stockfish soaking includes intestines, intestines, onions garlic, sweet pimentos, onions and and leeks, leeks, garlic, sweet pimentos, includes aromatic plants, plants, potatoes potatoes and (stocaficada). and black blackolives olives(stocaficada). aromatic Esquinado of Toulon consists of Toulon consists of of crabs crabs cooked cooked in in vinegar vinegar Esquinado and water, water, dressed dressed and quantity of and mixed mixed with with an an equal equal quantity and of mussels, then then tbe the crab crab shells shells are are refilled refilled with with the mussels, the mixture, mixture. sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned. browned. sprinkled Poutine and prepare savoury andmelet are used pur6es, such to prepare used to savoury purées, Pouline melet are such as pissalat, tapenade, tapenade,etc. They'ssaladiire,aaspeciality Nice, speciality of of Nice, aspissalat, etc. Thefissaladière, an open open tart tart of of ordinary pastry or ordinary pastry or bread bread dough isis an dough filled filled with with chopped onions onions cooked cooked in in oil, oil, covered covered with with fillets fillets of chopped of anchovy anchovv and black black olives. olives. and Pan bagna bagna isis aa slice slice of of bread bread moistened moistened with with olive Pan olive oil oil and and covered witb with anchovy anchovy fillets, fillets, thin thin slices slices oftomato covered of tomato and and capers. capers. Panisso isis aa porridge porridge of of cbick-peas chick-peas or Panisso or corn corn meal meal cooled cooled in in very small small saucers saucers and and fried fried in in oil. oil. It It isis eaten very sprinkled with eaten sprinkled with sugar. sugar. Meat: Beef Beef en en daube; daube: leg IeS of of mutton mutton Avignonnâise; pieh Avignonnaise; pieds Meat: paquets of of the the Pomme Pomme district; gayettes sausages district; gayettes (made of sausages (made paquets of pig's liver); liver); sou-fassum, sou-fassum, aa kind kind of of stuffed stuffed cabbage pig's cabbage cooked cooked pot-au-fez or in aa pot-au-feu or with with mutton, mutton, aa speciality speciality of in of the the GrasseGrasseAntibes region; region; liver liver àd la la moissonneuse. moissonneuse. Antibes (squash) flower and cereals: cereals: Stuffed Stulfed marrow marrow (squash) Vegetables and s; flowers; Swiss chard gratin; tart chard au au gratin; soft fruits tart of of soft in the Nice style; Swiss the Nice style; fruits in (zucchini); ravioli, baby marrows marrows (zucchini); ravioli, cannelloni, cannelloni, capelstuffed baby capelletti.

Pwurguc, Aigo pea soup. soup Aito bouido. bouido, Chick wtrh "ce. Chick pea nce. Anchoide. Anchoide, Soup wlth ARSEILLES MARSEILLES Poutorgue. Solode provcngole. Stuffed pepperr, Artichoke, tomalO. Grilled peppers. Artichoke. olrves. Grilled marrow romaro. marrow Salade provençale. Stuf{ed olives. omefeltes. Stuf{ed Sruffed
goose, ham roast goose, ham and and venison. venison. roast punfr DE peel the prMENTs DOUX pepper purée. Sweetpepper pur6e. PURÉE DE PIMENTS Doux -- Peel the Sweet pepp€rs, rem remove seeds, cook cook inin butter, pound them butter, and and pound them fineJy finely peppers, ove seeds, mortar with with ha half their weigbt (see weightofthick of thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce(see ininaamortar If their SAUCE). Rub Rub through through aasieve, sieve, reheat reheat and and add add butter. butter. SAUCE). garnish for Use as as aagarnish grills, and for grills, poached or and for for poached orsoft-boiled soft-boiled Use eggs. eggs. punfo DE Potato purée. pur&. PURÉE DE POMMES FoMMEs DE DE TERRE TERRE See Potllto See POTATOES. POTATOES. punfs DE Punpkin purée. pur&. PURÉE DECOURGE couRGE -- See See PUMPKIN. PUMPKIN. Pumpkln punfs D'ÉPINARDS Spinach purée. pur6e. PURÉE o'fprNAnps -- Cook Cook the the spinach spinach in in Spmach salted water. water. Drain, Drain, cool cool itit in in cold cold water, water, drain drain itit again, again, and and salted squeeze as as dry possible. Rub dry as as possible. Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat, Heat, squeeze and bind bind itit with with butter butter and and cream. cream. and Use garnish witb as gamish with meat, poached or meat, and and poached soft-boiled eggs. or soft-boiled eggs. U se as May also also be be used as aa vegetable. used as vegetable. May prnfn D'ESTRAGON Tarragon purée. purfo. PURÉE D'EsrRAcoN -- HOI. Hot. Blanch Blanch rapidly rapidly TarragoD in salted (9 oz.) salted water g. (9 water 250 250 g. oz.) fresh fresh tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Drain, Drain, cool cool in in cold cold water, water, drain drain again, again, squeeze squeeze as as dry dry as as possible and and rub rub in through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. through (+ pin!. Add to to 22 dl. pint, seant dl. (t scant cup) cup) thick (see thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see Add SAUCE). Heat Heat weil, well, add add butter. butter, season, season, and and mix weil. well. SAUCE). Use as as filling filling for for mushrooms, mushrooms, artichoke artichoke bottoms bottoms and and Use pastry shells, shells, or garnish for or as as garnish for large large or or small small cuts cuts of of meat, pastry chicken, eggs or or fish. chic ken, eggs Cold. Bind Bind the the tarragon tarragon purée, pur6e, prepared prepared as above, above, with Cold. very thick thick mayonnaise mayonnaise instead (See also instead of of sauce. sauc€. (See very TARRAGON.) TARRAGON.) Use as as an an ingredient of cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Use Watercress, chervil, chervil, parsley or other pur6es, hot other herb purées, Watercress, hot or cold, are prepared in the same way. are prepared cold, punfr DE TRUFFES Trufle pmée. puree. PURÉE TRUFFES - Rub through Truffle through a fine sieve g. (9 (9 oz.) fresh 250 g. fresh trufles, (+ dl. G250 truffies, raw or cooked. Mix with 2 dl. pint, seant scant cup) (see SAUCE) cup) BCchamel SAUCE) which has been pint, Béchamel sauce (see cooked with for aa few few moments. Strain cooked with fresh cream. cream. Boil Boil for through sieve. through aa fine fine sieve. Use as filling Use as filling for for pastry pastry cases, cases, little shells of of bread, potato crust, accompany elaborate crus t, etc., etc., which which accompany elaborate dishes; dishes; and as stuffng stuffing for artichoke bottomso weil as a liaison liaison for artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, etc., etc .• as well for for various various sauces. sauces.

*

PURfE-PRESSER. which PURÉE-PRESSER. plssr-punfsPASSE-PURÉE- Kitchen Kitchen utensil, utensil, of ofwhich there there are are many many types, used used for pressing pressing through pur6es purées of meat, meat, fish, fish, vegetables vegetables or or fruit. fruit. PURSLANE PURSLANE OR PUSSLEY. PUSSLEY. pouRprER POURPIER - A A weed weed of both both hemispheres. hemispheres. There There are are two two principal principal varieties varieties of of purslane: purslane: the the Common Common or or Winter Win/er Purslane, Purslane, cultivated for for its ilS large large leaves, Rosernoss. leaves. and and the the Garden Garden Purslane Purslane ot or Rosemoss. Ordinarily Ordinarily the the leaves leaves of of common common purslane purslane are are eaten eaten in in salad, salad, but but they they may may also also be be cooked cooked and and served served with with butter butter or or cream like French cream or or in in their their own own juices, juices,like French beans. beans. Finally, Finally, purslane purslane leaves leaves may may be be preserved prcserved in in vinegar vinegar and and used used as as aa condiment. condimen t.

748

preparation of bird. ItIt There There are recipes for for the the preparation of this this bird. are many recipes get high. recipes high. In In addition addition to to the the recipes should never be allowed allowed to to get prepared by given below, quail can following any any of of by following given can also also be be prepared below, quail (q.v.). partridge (q.v.). given for the for partridge the recipes recipes given (rrmcrrs) (sttred). CAILLES Quails BN CAISSES cAILLES EN cAIssEs (FARCIES)in cases cases (stuJfed). Quails in gratin game game quails. Stuff Bone with aa little litfle À2 gratin Stuff each each with Bone the the quails. ,forcemeat (see quails' livers (see FORCEMEATS) -jorcemeat livers FORCEMEATS) adding adding to to itit the the quails' and Reshape the birds to to trufres. Reshape the birds mixing in in sorne some chopped chopped truffies. and mixing piece of proper fonn give them give each in in aa piece of form and and wrap wrap each them their their proper pan, buttered greaseproof greaseproof paper. paper. Put into aa buttered buttered pan, Put them them into placing placing them with aa Iittle little Sprinkle with tightly against against each each other. other. Sprinkle them tightly melted for 15 l5 to to lid and cook in in the the oyen oven for melted butter, butter. coyer cover with with aa lid and cook pan and, 18 and, after after taking taking 18 minutes. birds from from the the pan minutes. Remove Remove the the birds paper case off papers, put put each been case which which has has been off the each into into aa paper the papers, juices pan juices brushed Dilute the the pan in the the oyen. oven. Dilute with oil oil and and dried dried in brushed with game stock with stock with Madeira, with aa little little concentrated concentrated game Madeira, moisten moisten with and quail. Put for 55 pour over back in in the the oyen oven for Put the the cases cases back and pour the quai!. over the minutes minutes before before serving. serving. Quails EN CAISSES cAIssEs ÀA I'italienne. CAILLES cAILLEs EN in cases cases ài l'italienne. Quails in L'ITALIENNE for quails as in the the recipe recipe for as described described in L'ITALIENNB -- Prepare Prepare the the quails (see Quails (stuffed). Put Put 1I tablespoon tablespoon Italian ltalian sauce sauce (see in cases cases (stuffed). Quails in SAUCE) Finish putting in birds. Finish in the the birds. case before before putting SAUCE) into into each each case cooking cases. in cases. recipe for for Quails cooking as as described in the the recipe described in Quails in Quails LA EN CAISSES cAIssEs ÀA LA cAILLBS EN in cases la LambaUe. Lamballe. CAILLES cases ài la Quails in LAMBALLE quails as Before above. Before as described described above. Prepare the the quails LAMBALLE -- Prepare julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) of putting of putting in with aa julienne the cases cases with line the in the the birds, birds, line pan mushrooms Dilute the the pan blended with with cream. cream. Dilute mushrooms and and truffies trufles blended juices with juices pour this the port, add this sauce sauce over over the and pour with port, add fresh fresh cream cream and quails. quails. Quails LA EN CAISSES cArssEs ÀA LA mirepoix. CAILLES cAILLES EN in cases cases ài la la mirepoix. Quails in MIREPOIX quails as Add sorne some above. Add as described described above. Prepare the the quails MIREpoIx -- Prepare juices and Vegetable pan juices (see MIREPOIX) and the pan MIREPOIX) to to the mirepoix (see Vegetable mirepoix pour pour over over the the birds. birds. Quails MoNT-BRY - EN CAISSES cAlssEst MONT-BRY Mont-Bry. CAILLES cAILLES EN in cases cases Mont-Bry. Quails in Prepare gratin quails as replacing àd gratin described above, above, rep1acing Prepare the as described the quails forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) forcemeat by by Chicken Chicken jorcemeat forcemeat (see juices with mixed pan juices with Dilute the the pan with chopped mixed with truffies. Dilute chopped truffies. champagne quails into intocases cases Place the the quails veal stock. stock. Place champagne and and brown brown veal and combs and kidneys. (q.v.) ofcocks' and kidneys. garnish with with aa ragoût ragofit (q.v.) of cocks'combs and garnish Quails LA ENCAISSES cArssEs ÀALA la Périgueux. P6rlgueux. CAILLES cAILLES EN in cases cases ài la Quails in pfnlcugux -- Prepare PÉRIGUEUX quails as Arrange above. Arrange asdescribed described above. Prepare the the quails them pour over over put aathick each and and pour oneach in cases, thick slice slice oftruffle of trufre on them in cases, put juicesdiluted Périgueux pan juices diluted (see SAUCE), the pan adding the Pirigueux sauce sauce (see SAUCE), adding with with Madeira. Madeira. Quails in cases LA EN CAISSES cAI$sEs ÀALA cAILLEs EN cascsài la la strasbourgeoise. strasbourgeoise. CAILLES Quailsin STRASBOURGEOISE quailsand with aa andstuff stuff them them with srRAsBor,rRcEorsn -- Bone Bone the the quails truffies, seasoned salpicon (q.v.) of and grasand salpicon (q.v.) seasoned with withsalt saltand andtruffies, ofjoie foie gras aa pinch pinch of brandy. with aafew few drops drops of of brandy. of spices spices and and sprinkled sprinkled with

QUAIL. This word word cornes from the the old old Flemish comes from cAILLE -- This QUNL. CAILLE word quakele. Quail passage, aa native native of hot is aa bird bird of passage, of hot word quakele. Quail is countries. It cornes hot spring and returns to hot comes to Europe in the spring climates climates at the beginning ofwinter. of winter. The corn mon quail (Coturnix (Coturnix vulgaris) species vulgaris) is is the the only only species common which cornes varieties of of many exotic varieties comes to Europe but there are many quail in Asia and the lndian Indian Archipelago. The quail belongs American partridge The American American quail belongs to to the the American family. It is quail and its its flesh flesh family. is aa little bigger than the common quail has in the in flavour. It It can can be be found found in the markets in has aa delicate delicate flavour. France prepared in any suitable any manner suitable France in winter, and can be prepared for ordinary quail. ordinary quai!. In September quails begin to begin to to migrate migrate to and October the the quails September and Africa and spring they cross the Mediterranean, and India. In the spring covering go to to and go without stopping, stopping, and whole distance distance without covering the the whole France. put into for into cages cages for and put France. There There they are trapped alive and systematic systematic fattening. 'belongs to Charles quail'belongs to the the highest highest says that that the the quail Charles Jobey Jobey says and this is aristocracy of the wild in so so far far as as wild is true true in world'and the bird world' quai! quail in the case of of quail quail is concerned, less in the case but applies applies much much less concerned, but bred for food.

Common quail Common quail

American quail: American quail: a. a. Male Male b. b. Female Female

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QUAIL Wrap thebirds birds ininbuttered papers and buttered papers cookasasdescribed andcook described inin Wrap the the recipe for Quails in cases. Arrange in paper cases, pur a the recipe for Quai/s in cases. Arrange in paper cases, put a pirigu"uxiauce thick sliceof of truffie truffieon oneach eachand andcoyer coverwith with Périgueux sauce thick slice (seeSAUCE). (see SA UCE). cases àI lalavigneronne. vigneronne. CAILLES cArLLEsEN Quails inincases ENCAISSES cArssEsÀALA LA Quails VIGNERoNNE * Bone the quails, leaving the legs and wings VIGNERONNE - Bone the quails, leaving the legs and wings intact. Stuff with with/oie gras and and diced dicedtruffies truffies sprinkled sprinkled with wiih foie gras intact. Stuff brandy and well seasoned. Reshape the quails, wrap each in a brandy and weil seasoned. Reshape the quails, wrap each in a piece of muslin and tie with string. piece of muslin and tie with string. jelly stock made out of a veal knuckle and the Cook inin jelly Cook stock made out of a veal knuckle and the quails' bones and trimmings and add some white Bordeaux quails' bones and trimmings and add sorne white Bordeaux wine. Drain quails and the quails and cool cool thoroughly thoroughly under underaa light light wine. Drain the press. Unwrap, coat with Brown chaud-froid sauce (see press. Unwrap, coat with Brown chaud-froid sauce (see SAUCE) prepared prepared with part of with aa part of the the liquor liquor inin which which the the SAUCE) quails were cooked. Glaze with jelly made from the rest of the quails were cooked. Glaze withjelly made from the rest of the liquor and and fiavoured flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. liquor Arrange the quails, each the quails, each in in aa frilly paper case, frilly paper case, or in little or in little Arrange individual rushes. dishes. Put Put 1I large large round round slice slice of of truffie truffie on on each each individual quail and 3 large grapes on top. quail and 3 large grapes on top.

forcemeatput puta apiece pieceof uncookedfoie ofuncooked grasstudded studdedwith witha a forcemeat foiegras pieceof oftruffie, trufle,seasoned seasonedwith withsalt saltand spicesand andspices andsprinkled sprinkled piece withbrandy. brandy.Reshape Reshape the quails,wrap thequails, wrapeach pieceofof eachinina apiece with muslinand andtie tieboth bothends endswith withstring, string,ininsuch sucha amanner mannerasastoto muslin makelittle littleballottines. ballottines. make Putthese theseinto intoaasauté panon sautepan onaafoundation foundationofoffresh freshbacon Put bacon (porkrind), rinds(pork rind),carrots carrotsand andonions onions- -ail allchopped choppedand rinds andfried fried butter. Coyer Cover the thebirds birdswith withtheir theirbones bonesand andtrimmings, trimmings, ininbutter. previously tossed tossedininbutter. butter.Moisten Moisten with (scantt {pint, with2l dl.(scant pint, 2t d!. previously generous cup) cup)Madeira. Madeira.Boil Boildown down almost almostcompletely. completely. Add generous Add vealstock stocksimmered simmered with withaafew fewtablespoons tablespo onsGamejelly Game jellystock veal stock (seeJELL JELLY). Bringtotothe boil,coyer theboil, coverthe pan,and thesauté saut6 pan, (see Y). Bring cook andcook hot oyen ovenfor for 20 20minutes. minutes. ininaahot Drain the quailsand thequails putthem and put them into intoa aflat terrine.Strain Drain fiat terrine. Strainthe the liquor ininwhich which they they were werecooked cookedand pourover and pour over them. them.Leave liquor Leave to cool cool in inthis this liquor. liquor.Drain quails again, Drain the thequails again, unwrap, unwrap, and to anddry dry thoroughly. Coat quail with Coat each eachquail with aaBrown Brownchaud-froid chaud-froidsauce thoroughly. sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made madefrom from the the liquor liquor left left over over from from cooking (see cooking quails and the quails and fiavoured flavoured with with Madeira Madeiraor some other or sorne the other wine. wine. Decorate the quails with the quails pieces of with pieces oftruffies andhard-boiled hard-boiled egg Decorate t ruffi es and egg white.Glaze Glaze the jelly and the decorations decorations with with half-set half-set jelly white. and chill. chill. Arrange them them in in aacrown crown in in aadeep deep dish dish and andcoyer Arrange completely cover completely with half-setjelly. half-set jelly. Keep Keep on on ice ice until until ready ready to with to serve. serve. er chaud-froid chaud-froid prepared prepared as as above above can Quails bearranged arranged in can be Quails en in different ways. ways. Serve Serve on on the the dish, dish, surrounding different surrounding them them with with choppedjelly; put them or put glass dish them into into aa glass chopped jelly; or dish and and coyer cover them them jelly. with aa clear clear jelly. with quails can The quails can also also be be served served individually, individually, each The each in in aa frilly frilly paper case jelly, or case on on aa foundation foundation of chopped jelly, of chopped paper porcelain, or in in porcelain, glass or silver dishes. or silver dishes. glass quails. CAILLES Confit of of quails. cArLLEs CONFITES Confit coNFrrEs -- Decapitate Decapitate 44 plump plurnp quails, putting putting the the heads heads aside aside for for use quails, use later. later. Season Season the the birds birds with salt salt and ground pepper. pepper. Flame and freshly freshly ground with Flame in in aa frying pan frying pan with Armagnac or or Cognac. Cognac. (7 oz.) g. (7 goose fat oz.) goose fat in in aa pan, adding Melt 200 g. adding aa few few drops drops of of water. Wh When the fat fat is is almost almost melted, water. en the melted, add quails. Bring add the the quails. Bring then simmer simmer for for 35 slowly to the boil, then 35 to 40 40 minutes. minutes. place Remove the pan from the the pan the heat heat and Remove and cool quails. Place cool the the quails. in the the refrigerator refrigerator in in order order to them in to set set the the film film of of fat fat that that covers them. Prepare 4 rectangular canapés (q.v.). Spread canapis (q.v.). Prepare Spread them them with aa thin layer layer offreshfoie gras, about of freshfoie gras, (l oz.). Place 1I quail about25 g. (1 25 g. quail in in centre of ofeach canapi and and fix the heads the centre each canapé heads in in position. The eyes are made of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg white and aa speck oftruffie. of trufle. Decorate quail with each quail with small pieces of Decorate each small pieces of truffie trufre and and surround surround with 6 large skinned, de-seeded de-seeded grapes. Glaze Glaze the birds with savoury savoury jelly. jelly. The quails should be served on a large large dish and decorated decorated to to taste (usually (usually with a a piping of chopped savoury jelly). (Recipe the restaurant restaurant Lasserre.) Lasserre.) (Recipe used used in the Quails en chemise. cArLLEs CAILLES EN EN crrEMrse CHEMISE - Stuff the quails Quails with rià gratin game forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Truss game forcemeat Truss them them as as for for an an entrie entrée and and enclose each each one in a piece piece of of small intestine. up at both both ends and and wrap in muslin, muslin, which which intestine. Tie up should should also also be be tied at both both ends. Poach Poach from 15 15 to 18 18 minutes in in boiling boiling clear clear stock. stock. Drain, Drain, remove remove the the muslin muslin and and serve serve the quails quails inatimbale in a timbale (q.v.), (q.v.), wrapped wrapped in in their their chemises,sprinkled chemises, sprinkled with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of the liquor in which they were cooked. cooked. Serve Serve with with Rouennaise Rouennaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) to which which concentrated concentrated game game stock, stock, boiled boiled down down to to the the consistency consistency of ofa a fumet (q.v.), (q.v.), has has been been added. added. fumet Quails with with cherries. cherries. cArLLEs CAILLES AUx AUX crnlsss CERISES -- Cook Cook the the quails, q uails, Quails trussed an entrCe, entrée, in in butter butter in in aa casserole casserole or or earthenearthentrussed as as for for an 'ware ware cocofte. cocotte. When When three-quarters three-quarters done done add add 12 12 stoned stoned cherries cherries for for each each quail. quai!. Stonedcooked cooked or or fresh fresh cherries cherries can can be be used. used. Put Put them them in in an an Stoned ovenproof ovenproof dish dish and and cook cook in in aa low low oven, oyen, without without any any liquid liquid except thejuice juice rendered rendered by by the the fruit. fruit. except the

in cases cases àri la la vigneronne vigneronne Quails in Quails

Casserole (or quails of quails quails en en cocotte). cocotte). CAILLES cArLLEs EN EN Casserole of qua ils (or into quail aa piece each quail ofbutter, into each piece of butter, the salt and pepper. the size size of of a a cobnut, cobnut, kneaded kneaded with with aa littte little salt pepper. Truss Truss the the birds. birds. Put Put them them into into an an earthenware earthenware casserole or cocotte Season and cook in cocotte in in which which butter butter has has been been heated. heated. Season the the oven oyen for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Add Add aa dash dash of of brandy brandy and and baste baste with a few tablespoons of game stock. a few tablespoons of game stock. The The quails quai1s may may be be wrapped wrapped in in vine vine leaves leaves or or in in thin thin rashers of of bacon, bacon, served served with with crottons croûtons fried fried in in butter, butter, spread with d à gratin FORCEMEATS), ifif desired. desired. gratin gameforcemeat game forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS), Casserole of quails quails Aà Ia la bonne bonne femme. femme. cArLLFs CAILLES EN EN cA$sERoLE CASSEROLE Casserole of A À ra LA noxxs BONNE FEMME FEMME -- Cook Cook the the quails quails in in aa casserole casserole with with a garnish ofdiced potatoes tossed in butter and blanched diced garnish of ruced potatoes tossed in butter and blanched diced bacon. bacon. Finish Finish cooking cooking as as described described in in the the recipe recipe fo forr Casserole Casserole of ofquails. quai/s. Casserole quails of with grapes. grapes. cArLLEs CAILLES EN EN cAssERoLE CASSEROLE Ar./x AUX Casserole of quails with RArsrNs RAISINS -- Clean Clean out out and and singe singe 66 quails. quails. pluck Pluck them, them, truss, truss, and and wrap wrap each each in in aa vine vineleaf leafand and thin thin rasher rasher of offat fat bacon. bacon. put Put them them into into aa saut6 sauté pan pan in in which which I1 good good tablespoon tablespoon of of butter butter has has been been heated, heated, and and cook cook in in aa hot hot oven oyen for for 88 minutes. minutes. Take Take the the quails. quails out out of of the the pan, pan, remove remove trussing trussing strings strings and and arrange arrange them them in in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish. dish. Add Add 60 60 large large fr-sh fresh peeled peeled aid and qeedgd seeded grapes. grapes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the the fat fat given given out out by by the the birds. birds. Fut oven, uncovered, Putthe thedish dish inin the theoven, uncovered, for for 55minutej. minutes. At Atthe themoment moment of ofserving, serving, sprinkle sprinklethe the birds birds with with their their pan pan juices diluted with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy and juices diluted with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy and 44 tablespoons tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Serve Serve at at once. once. Chaud-froid of quqils. quails. cArLLEs CAILLES EN EN cHAUD-FRoID, CHAUD-FROID, cHAUDCHAUDChaud-froid of FRorD FROIDDE DEcAtrres CAILLES-- Bone Bonel0 10quails quailsand andstuffwith stuffwithdàgratin gratingame game forcemeat FORCEMEATS). In In the the middle middle of of the the forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). cAssERoLE, EN cocorrE - Put CASSEROLE, EN COCOTfE- Put

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QUAIL 20 minutes. minutes. piece piece of of buttero butter, cover, cover, and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for for 20 garlic lightly in of garlic and 2 cloves of Indian /ndian sauce. sauce. Fry 22 onions onions and 2 cloves diced cooking apples. and 2 2 diced butter. butter. Add Add aa little curry powder and Moisten with brown veal stock, cook, and pass through a sieve. Pour into a saucepan and taste the sauce to make sure

Cold Coldquails. quailS. cArLLEs CAILLESFRoDes FROIDES -- In In addition addition to to various various recipes

in in this this section, section, all ail the the methods methods of of preparation given given for for cold partridge partridge are are suitable suitable forcold for cold quail. (See PARTRIDGE.) PARTRIDGE.) Devilled quails. quails. cAILLEs CAILLES cnrrdns GRILLÉES A re LA orl.sl,s DIABLE -- Split the the Devilled quails quails down down the the back back and and flatten flatten them them slightly. slightly. Brush with melted butter, butter, season season with with salt salt and and freshly freshly ground ground pepper and melted dip in in white white breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Grill Grill the the quails quails on on both both sides under dip low heat. heat. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish dish and garnish with a border border of aa low sliced lemons lemons and and gherkins. gherkins. Serve Serve with with Diable Diable sauce (see (see sliced SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with concentrated concentrated game stock boiled SAUCE) down to to the the consistency of afumel (q.v.). down Quails iIl la la financidre financière (shrffed) I. I. crunss CAILLES iÀ ll LA nmlxcrinr FINANCIÈREQuails and cook cook the the quails as described in the recipe for Prepare and in cases cases ((stuffed). When they they are are cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with stuffed) . When Quails in tablespoons Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and glaze aa few tablespoons in the the oven, oven, placing placing each bird on an an oval cro0ton croûton fried in in butter. Surround Surround with with d à la la financiire garnish garnish (see butter. quail. GARNISHES). Put a a thick slice of trufre truffle on on each each quai!. GARNISHES). juices with Madeira, (see Dilute the the pan panjuices Madeira, add Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see Dilute SAUCE) based based on on gamefumet (q.v.) and pour over over the birds. SAUCE) Quails ià la la financiire financière II. n. cxrres CAILLES A À t-l LA FINANCIÈRE nNlNcrinp -- Proceed Quails as described described in the above above recipe and arrange arrange the quails with as their garnish garnish in aa puffpastry puff pastry shell or in a timbale timbale made made of of Fine their DOUGH), baked baked blind. lining paste paste (see DOUGH), lining à la la financiire financière with rice border. border. CAILLES QuaiJs dr i LA LA cAILLEs À with aa rice Quails FINANCIÈRE EN EN BoRDt BORDURE RlZ -- Prepare the and the the quails and Prepare the nNa,Ncrins RE DE DE RJz garnish as and garnish for Quails as described described in the recipe for Quails d lafinanciire and serve them them in with ring with Rice ring in aa rice border (see BORDER, Rice rice border garnishes) . garnishes). Quails Stuffthe couRMANpn - Stuffthe LA GOURMANDEcxrus ÀA LA la gourmande. CAILLES Qualls ài la quails with trufres and chopped chopped truffles quails of butter, lean ham and with aa mixture mixture of and cook pan juices with with chamchamthe pan butter. Dilute the and cook them them in in butter. into aa shredded into fresh trufres shredded pagne and stock. Add fresh and chicken chicken stock. julienne (q.v.). Arrange foundation dish, on on aa foundation Arrange the quails on aa dish, oflarge filled with with aa salpicon salpicon in butter and filled mushrooms stewed of large mushrooms stewed in (q.v.) pour piping hot and pour hot and (q.v.) of until piping gras. Heat the sauce sauce untiI of foie Heat the foie gras. over over the the birds. birds. Quails Truss the the grecque. CAILLES A LA rA GRECQUE cnrcQue -- Truss cAILLES À la grecque. Qurils ài la quails in aa Arrange in quails as in butter. butter. Arrange cook in an entrée entrie and and cook for an as for pyramid (see RICE) and grecque (see RICE) and la grecque pyramid on of Rice Rlce àd la foundation of on aa foundation pour constock conwith game stock pour over pan juices diluted diluted with over the the pan centrated fumet (q.u.). of aafumet centrated to to the the consistency of Grilled rA' DUCHESSE oucl{Essu cRlrrfes ÀA LA la ducbesse. cAILLEs GRlLLÉES Grilled quails A la duchesse. CAILLES - Grill quails as for Devil/ed Devilled quails. Arrange as described described for Grill the quails -them (see POTATOES), potato (see small cakes cakes of of Duchess Duchess potato them on on small garnish surand surbutter, and with butter, dressed with garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips dressed round based on on round with with aaingof Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), based aa gamefumel (q.v.), (q.v.), with with butter added to it. L'rNomNNE - quails ài l'indienne. cnnr"frs ÀA L'INDIENNE I'indienne. CAILLES cAILLES GRILLÉES Grilted quails For bowl: 300 300 g.g. in aa bowl: quails prepare prepare the mixture in following mixture the following For 12 12 quails 01 paste,1I into aa paste, (ll oz., generous liblended into lf cup) cup) butter, butter, blended oz., generous tablespoon paste, powder, 1I tablespoon Mulligatawny paste, tablespoon Mulligatawny tablespoon curry curry powder, 22 teaspoons Worcester Harvey sauce, sauce, teaspoons Harvey sauce, 22 teaspoons Worcester sauce, 22 tablespoons (3 tea(3 tablespoons) chutney, 1I teaunsweetened chutney, tablespoons) unsweetened spoon paste. paprika and into aa paste. Blend into spoon paprika and salt. salt. Blend Remove put aa little the paste into into little of of the Remove the and put the breastbone breastbone and each under the oven, andcool cool them under each bird. Sear them them quickly in in the oven, and bird. Sear aa light quail with with the thesame same light press. Coat of each each quail Coat the outside of paste paste and grill. grill. When finish cooking cookinginin the the When they are brown, brown, finish they are (see oven. Prepare aa border border of of Game Game forcemeat forcemeat (see put the arrange the the FORCEMEATS), put the middle, middle, arrange the rice rice inin the quails rest quails on pour over andserve serve the therest little of ofthe thesauce sauceand on top, top, pour over aalittle Sef)arat~~ly. Serve straw potatoes at the same time. separately. Serve straw at the same time. lightlyand and Rice for the the garnish. Brown chopped shallots shallots lightly moisten becooked. riceisis to to be cooked. moisten with with the stock which the rice stock inin which Season te and paprika. paste powder, Mulligatawny and paprika. Season with with curry curry powder, Mulligatawny pas Cook en strain strainer. finestrainer. throughaafine Cook for for aa moment, strain through moment, ththen Pour this stock over the rice, bring to the boil, add good Pour this stock over the rice, bring to the boil, addaagood

the flavour is good. Pour over the quails. (Recipe by M. A. Menager, chef to King Edward VII of England.) Jellied quails

i la p6rigourdine.

cnnrss

A r.a.

rfntcounorwr,

game gratin game with À I gratin A L,c. celfE - Boneind stuff the quails with gras and trufles, (see FORCEMEATS), foie and truffles, forcemeat (see foie gras forcemeat quails, wrap wrap each each the quails, quite aa lot Reshape the lot oftruffies. of truffies. Reshape allowing quite allowing 25 from 20 20 to to 25 Poach from piece ofmuslin both ends. ends. Poach in a piece of muslin and tie at both jelly stock (see (see JELL JELLD, flavoured in liquid liquid Game jelly minutes in Y), tlavoured cool in in to cool the quails to wine. Leave the with Madeira any other wine. Madeira or any into Put them them into dry on on a cloth. Put their liquor. Drain, unwrap, and dry jelly and pour over the over the and pour the jelly Clarify the bowl. Clarify or glass bowl. aa terrine or before serving. serving. quails. Chill thoroughly before LIMoUsINE - Arrange the curr,rs ÀA LA la limousine. CAILLES LA LIMOUSINEQuails Quails ài la. quails, on on aa founquails, grilled as for Devilled quails, as described described for (q.v.), in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), cooked in dation of artichoke artichoke hearts cooked (see purie (see with Chestnut Chestnut purée filled with in butter butter and and filled simmered in simmered ring of of Demi-glace Demi'glace border aa ring round the the border CHESTNUTS). Pour round gamefumet,with (see SAUCE) concentrated gamefumet, based on on concentrated SAUCE) based sauce (see with it. butter added added to it. put quails, put Bone the the quails, LUcULLUs -- Bone Lucullus. CAILLES cAILLES LUCULLUS Quails Lucullus. gras, seasoned (l oz.) seasoned g. (l 25 g. oz.) uncookedfoie uncooked/oie gras, about 25 each bird bird about into each peeled truffle. truffie. small peeled studded with with aa small and studded with salt salt and and spices and with in the the cook as quails into aa sauté as described described in and cook saut6 pan and Put the the quails Put filled shell filled in cases. cases. Arrange in a low pastry shell recipe for for Quails Quails in (see TRUFFLE). Dilute Dilute Truffies àd la Ia crime (see with aa ragoût ragofrt of of Truffies down veal stock, pan juices with brown veal stock, boil down add brown with Madeira, Madeira, add the the panjuices pour over the birds. birds. by half halfand over the and pour down Open the the qquails MINUTE -- Open LA MINUTE uails down c.qlt-rrs ÀA LA Minute quails. CAILLES Beat from the the inside. inside. Beat bones from small bones the back and and remove remove the the small the back the pepper and saut6 the and sauté with salt salt and and pepper lightly lightly to Season with to flatten. flatten. Season bothsides. sides. on both them slightly slightly on birds browning them briskly in in butter, butter, browning birds briskly fried inin onionfried little chopped chopped onion When with aa littie When done, sprinkle with done, sprinkle mushrooms (l parsley. Put sliced mushrooms butter Put thinly thinly sliced and chopped parsley. butter and dash of brandy, pan to per per quail) quail) into to brown, brown, add add aadash saut6 pan into the sauté (q.v.\ and boil for vealstock, stock, boil moisten gamefumet (q.v.) brown veal and brown vith gamefumet moisten with pour this this sauce sauce and pour aa few dashoflemonjuice of lemon juiceand few moments, add aadash moments, add over over the the birds. birds. Half bone bone Quails rl MONSELET lroxssrrr - - Half cAILLES ÀALA Monselet. CAILLES ta Monselet. Quails lii la (q.v.)oftruffies the quails. Stuffthem of trufres andfoie withaa salpicon (q.v.) Stuffthem with the quails. gras. Wrap each muslin and and poach in of muslin each bird bird inin aa piece of game stock made LVJ'im:ln!-n.avourea from the the quails'bones made from Madeira-flavoured game and unwrap, put into an Drain the the birds, birds, unwrap, and trimmings. trimmings. Drain earthenware withaa garnish of sliced orcasserole casserole with earthenware cocotte cocotte or and artichoke mushroomsand butter, cultivated mushrooms artichoke hearts hearts tossed tossedininbutter, quails thick whichthe thequails liquorininwhich Strain the theliquor trufres. Strain oftruffles. thick slices slicesof were cream,boil boil quantityofthick freshcream, of thickfresh werecooked, anequal equalquantity cooked,add addan putininaa down andput pour over thecocotte cocotteand birds.Cover Coverthe down and over the thebirds. and pour slow slowoven for55minutes. minutes. ovenfor Cold Truss1212 DECAILLES cAILLES- -Truss FRoIDEDE Cold quail mousse. mousse.MOUSSE Moussr FROIDE quails quailsas Madeira-flavoured andbraise braise them themininMadeira-tlavoured as foran anentrée entrie and stock, mushroom trufleand andmushroom vegetables and andtruffie stock, with withthe the usual usualvegetables trimmings quails totocool thebraising braising coolininthe thequails trimmings added addedto toit.it.Leave Leavethe liquor. liquor. Drain Drainand bonethem themcOluplet€:ly, completely, taking care to preserve andbone the wingsintact, intact,asasthey they will be used for garnishing the thewings mousse. mousse. Using quails,make thequails, makea a skinsof ofthe bonesand andskins Usingthe thetrimmings, trimmings, bones Brown UCE). (seeSA SAUCE). Brown chaud-froid sauce(see chaud-froid sauce Prepare Y), flavoured (seeJELL with flavouredwith stock(see JELLY), Prepare Game Game jelly stock Madeira wine. Madeira or orsorne some otherwine. The follows: madeasasfollows: Themousse mixtureisismade moussemixture Pound quails'flesh adding finelyinina amortar, mortar,adding fleshfinely Poundthe therest restof thequails' ofthe totoitit 175 grasand and3 3oror4 4 cookedfoie 175g.g.(6(6oz., cup)cooked oz.,i i cup) foiegras

751 75r

QUAIL tablespoons of of the the chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce. sauce. When When the the mixture mixture isis tablespoons quite smooth smooth take take itit out out of of the the mortar mortar and and rub rub itit through through aa quite fine sieve, sieve, or or use use an an electric electric blender. Transfer the blender. Transfer the mixture mixture to to aa fine bowl on on ice. ice. Stir Stir vigorously, vigorously, add add aa dash dash of brandy, 22 or of brandy, or 33 bowl jellyand tablespoons concentrated concentrated liquid game jelly liquid game (scant I and2l tablespoons 21 dl.dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) cup) fresh fresh cream, cream, very very stiffiy stiffiy whipped. whipped. B1end Blend pint, carefully. carefully. Line the the bottom bottom and and sides sides of of aa mousse mousse mould mould with with aa layer layer Line game jelly. Arrange a border on the bottom of alternating of game of jelly. Arrange a border on the bottom of aIternating rows of of thick thick slices slices of of truffies, truffies, cooled cooled in in Madeira, Madeira, and and half half of of rows quails'wings, the quails' cooled under press and under aa press and coated coated with with the the the wings, cooled chaud-froid sauce. sauce. Fill Fill the the mould mould with with the the mousse mixture to mousse mixture to chaud-froid (l inch) within 22 cm. cm. (1 inch) of of the the edge. edge. Lay Lay the the remaining remaining wings wings on on within top, alternating alternating with with rows rows of of truffie trufle slices. slices. Finish Finish off off with with aa top, jelly, filling layer of game jelly, of game filling the the mould mould right right up up to to the top. the top. layer Leave the the mousse mousse on ice or on ice or in in aa refrigerator refrigerator until until itit sets sets Leave completely. Turn Turn out out on on aa dish dish or or on on aa buttered buttered croûton. cro0ton. completely. jelly and Surround with with chopped game jelly chopped game put aa border and put border of of small small Surround pieces ofjelly, cut in the shape of wolfs teeth, around the edge pieces ofjelly, cut in the shape ofwolfs teeth, around the edge of the the dish. dish. of Instead ofputting quail mousse of putting the the quail mousse into into aa mould, mould, itit can can be be Instead put into into aa dish jelly. Pile dish on on aa layer layer of of weil-set well-set jelly. Pile the mixture into into the mixture put garnish with dome, garnish quails' wings with quails' wings coated coated with with the the chaudchaudaa dome, sauce and and slivers jelly over slivers of of truffies, truffies, and pour half-set and pour half-set jelly froid sauce over froid the top. top. the

sprinkled with with aa little little brandy brandy and and mixed mixed with with diced diced truffies. truffies. sprinkled Over this this forcemeat forcemeat put put aa layer gratin game layer of game forcemeat of ÀA gratin Over forcemeat (see FORCEMEA FORCEMEATS), then half half the quails, pressing the stuffed pressing stuffed quails, (see TS), then down weil. well. Cover Cover with with another another layer layer of forcemeat, put put in of forcemeat, down in the the rest of quails and of the the quails and follow follow with with aa layer layer of forcemeat. Cover of forcemeat. Cover rest this with with aa layer layer of of truffied trufred forcemeat, forcemeat, flatten flatten it, it, and this and cover cover again with with aa layer layer of of thin thin rashers rashers of lean bacon. of lean bacon. Seal Seal with with aa again pastry Iid. lid. Decorate Decorate with pieces of with pieces pastry cut of pastry cut in in fancy fancy shapes. shapes. pastry Make aa hole hole in in the the middle middle of the lid of the lid to to allow allow steam steam to to escape, escape, Make and brush brush the the top top with with beaten beaten egg. Bake in egg. Bake in aa hot hot oven oven for for and about 11 llhours. about hours. When cooked, cooked, leave leave the pdti to get cold, the pâté to get cold, and pour Iiquid and pour liquid When jelly stock Game jelly stock(see JELLY) through the the hole hole in in the the top. top. Game (see JELL Y) through

t

Hinged mould mould for for Hinged quail pâté pit6 quail

pErrrs pors peas. CAILLES with peas. cArLLEs AUx Quails with Quails AUX PETITS POIS -- Cook the quails in aa casserole casserole as as described described in in the appropriate recipe. in the appïopriate recipe. Have (scant pint, ready I litre pint, 2* 2| cups) fresh garden garden peas, cooked in ready litre (scant butter, and sorne young onions. Put the peas into the some small small young butter, and cocotte and and leave leave the whole to simmer together cocotte the whole to simmer together without boiling. boiling. c,clnrs pETrr-DUcquails on the Split the quails Quailspetitduc. Quails petit-duc. CAILLES PETIT-DUC - Split back and season season with salt and paprika. back and paprika. Sprinkle Sprinkle with melted butter butter and and dip in white breadcrumbs. Grill them and arrange each each one on aa little little cake of of Anna Anna potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES), POT A TOES), baked baked in in tartlet tartlet tins. Put I1 large large grilled grilled mushroom, mushroom, filled with grated horseradish, on each each quail. quai!. Heat a few few tablespoons tablespoons of grated horseradish, Game Game fumel fumet (see (see FUMET), FUMEn, add Madeira and and butter, and pour pour over over the the birds. Quails Quails with with rice. rice. cATLLES CAILLES AU AU Rrz RlZ - Truss Truss the the quails quails as as for for an entrie, entrée, season season and and cook cook in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange them them in in a pyramid pyramid on on a a foundation foundation of of a Rice Rice pilaf pilaf (see (see PILAF) PILAF) to to which the the butter butter left left in in the the pan pan has has been been added. added. Add Add aa dash dash of ofbrandy brandy to to juices, moisten the the pan panjuices, moisten with with concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal stock stock or concentrated, concentrated Game fumet fumet (see (see FUMET). FUMET). Pour Pour over over the the quails. quails. Quails Quails with with rice rice (stufred). (stuffed). cArLLEs CAILLES AU AU Rrz RIZ -- Prepare Prepare and and cook cook the the quails quails as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Quails Quails in in cases. cases. Arrange Rice pilaf Arrange them them on on aa foundation foundation of of Rice pilaf (see (see PILAF). PILAF). Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with brown brown veal veal stock, stock, simmer simmer for for aa few few moments moments and and pour pour over over the the quails. quails. Quails Quails with with risotto. risotto. cArLLEs CAILLES AU AU Rrsorro RlSOTTO -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Quails Quails with with rice, rice, replacing replacing the the rice rice pilaf with Risotto pilafwith Risotto with with cheese. cheese. Quails Quails with with risotto risotto ià la la pi6montaise. piémontaise. clnres CAILLES lu AU nrsorro,r RISOTTO À p$MoNrlrsr Arrange quails r.c, LA PIÉMONTAISE -- Arrange quails cooked cooked in in butter butter on on Risotto dà la (see RICE), RICE), mixed mixed with with finely finely sliced sliced white white la piimontaise piémontaise (see truffies. Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal truffies. Dilute stock stock and and pour pour over over the the quails. quails. Roast Roast quails. quails. cArLLEs CAILLES R0TrFs RÔTIES -- Wrap Wrap the the quails quails first first in in vine vine leaves, then in in thin thin rashers rashers of ofbacon bacon and and secure secure with with string. string. leaves, then Roast Roast on on aa spit spit before before aa lively Iiveiy fire fire for for 15 15to to 20 20 mins mins (or (orinin the the oven, oven, for for 12-15 12-15 mins). mins). Arrange Arrange each each quail quail on on aa garnished garnished canapi. canapé. Garnish Garnish with with watercress watercress and and quarters quarters of of lemon. lemon. Dilute Dilutethe the pan panjuices juicesand and serve servewith with the theresulting resultingsauce. sauce. Quails Quails ià la la romaine. romaine. cArLLEs CAILLES AÀ ra LA noulrNr ROMAINE -- Heat Heat some sorne butter butterin in aa flameproof flameproofearthenware earthenwarecasserole casserole and and brown brown the the quails quails all ail over. over. Add Add fresh fresh peas peaswhich which have have been been prepared prepared inin

t

Quails Quails in in aa nest nest

QuSb Quails in in a a nest. nest. cArLLEs CAILLES AU AU NrD NID - Bone Bone the the quails, quails, stuff stuff with with iÀ gratin gratin garne game forcemeat forcemeat (se (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) mixed mixed with with chopped chopped truffies, truffies, wrap wrap each each bird bird in in a a small small piece piece of of

muslin muslin and and make make into into aa roll. roll. Poach Poach for for 18 18 minutes minutes in in stock stock prepared from the bones and trimmings, with clear veal stock prepared from the bones and trimmings, with c1ear veal stock and Madeira. and Madeira. Drain Drain the the quails, quails, unwrap, unwrap, press press in in aa cloth c10th to to give them their proper shape and, glaze lightly in the oven. give them their proper shape and glaze Iightly in the oven. Arrange Arrange them them in in a a nest nest of of straw straw potatoes, potatoes, prepared prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Potato Potato nesrs nests (see (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). Line with Line with aa salted salted batter batter pancake pancake (see (see CREpES) CRËPES) and and fill filt with with aa ragofit ragoût of of cocks' cocks' kidneys, kidneys, small small button button mushrooms mushrooms and and trufreso truffies, blended blended with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of Financiire Financière sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which the liquor left over from poaching the (see SAUCE) to which the liquor left over from poaching the quails has been added. Put the rest ofthe ragofrt on top. quails has been added. Put the rest of the ragoût on top. pArf Quatl Quail p0t6. pâté. PÂTÉ on DE cATLLES CAILLES -- Bone Bone the the quails. quails. Stuff Stuff each each piece with a of with a piece of )À gratin gratin forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) about ahazelnut, foie gras, about the the size size of ofa hazelnut, and and the thesame same amount amount of offoie gras, studded studded with with aa piece piece of oftrufre, truffie, the the whole whole well weil seasoned seasoned with with salt and spices spices and and sprinkled sprinkled with with aa dash dash of of brandy. brandy. Wrap Wrap salt and each quail in a very thin rasher ofbacon. each quail in a very thin rasher of bacon. Line or rectangular rectangular mould mould with with fine fine pastry, pastry, Line aa hinged hinged oval oval or then then with with thin thin rashers rashers of ofbacon. bacon. Cover Cover with with aa layer layer of offinely finely pounded forcemeat made of veal and lean and fat pork in pounded forcemeat made of veal and lean and fat pork in equal proportions, bound with equal proportions, bound with an an egg, egg, well weil seasoned, seasoned,

752 752

QUATRE.QUARTS QUATRE-QUARTS the the following following manner: manner: fry fry finely finely chopped chopped young young onions onions with with lean ham in in butter. butter. Add Add freshly freshly shelled shelled peas. peas. Season Season lean diced diced ham with and aa pinch pinch of of sugar. sugar. Cover Co ver and and cook cook from from 35 35 to to 40 40 with salt salt and

minutes. minutes. Cover Cover the the casserole casserole and finish finish cooking cooking together together in in the the oven. oven. Serve Serve in in the the same same casserole. casserole. CAILLES EN EN cocorfi COCOTTE seNt-ilalns SAINT-MARS -- Put Put Quails Saint-Mars. Saint-Mars. cAILLES Quails the the quails, quails, trussed trussed as as for for an entrde, entrée, into into a saut6 sauté pan. pan. Cover Cover them them with with aa julienne julienne of of coarsely coarsely shredded shredded carrot, onion and celery, lightly fried in in butter and moistened moistened with veal veal stock flavoured cook without without a lid. lido Drain ftavoured with sherry. Season Season and and cook the the quails, quails, untruss untruss them and and arrange in in an an earthenware cocotte cocotte or or casserole. casserole. Cover Cover with with a julienne julienne of of coarsely coarsely shredded mushrooms. Pour Pour the pan pan juices juices over shredded truffies truffles and mushrooms. (3 tablespoons) julienne. Sprinkle with with 2 tablespoons (3 the julienne. brandy brandy and and dot dot with small small pieces pieces of of butter. butter. Cover the cocotte cocotte and seal the lid !id with flour-and-water ftour-and-water paste. Cook Cook in the the oven, oven, se al the a bain-marie, from 15 to l8 18 minutes. minutes. in abain-marie.from Quails ià la Souvarof. clrtrrs CAILLES A À rl LA souvlRoF SOUVAROF - Stuff the Quails quails with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of of foie gras and trufres, truffles, season season entrde. dash of brandy. brandy. Truss as for an entrée. sprinkle with a dash and sprinkle Fry briskly in butter for 6 minutes. Put into an earthenware cocotte with cooked cooked truffies, truffles, allowing 2 truffies truffles per per quail. pepper. Dilute Oilute the the pan pan juices juices with Season with with salt and pepper. salt and Season SAUCE) based Demi-glace sauce (see Madeira, moisten with Demi-glace (see SAUCE) Madeira, on fumet (see FUMET). Simmer for a few moments on Game Garne fumet and pour over the quails. Add a dash of brandy. brandy. Cover the l2 minutes. cocotte, cocotte. seal the lid on and cook in the oven for 12 TALLEYRINo -- Split the cl'tlrns AÀ LA TALLEYRAND Quails ài la TaUeyrand. Talleyrand. CAILLES Quaits on both Coat on season. Coat quails open, flatten them lightly and season. open, ftatten (see mirepoix (see Vegetable mirepoix of Vegetable si des with layer of with aa thin thin layer sides lean; chopped with 1I tablespoon tablespoon lean, MIREPOIX), mixed MIREPOIX), mixed with truffies. Wrap each quail in a piece chopped truffles. cooked cooked ham and chopped roll butter and roll of pig's caul or salt pork. Sprinkle with melted butter flame and low ftame on aa low Grill the the quails on in in fresh fresh breadcrumbs. Grill filled with and filled arrange arrange on on puff pastry tartlets, baked blind and Pirigueux sauce (see PURÉE). Serve with Périgueux Mushroom purde (see PUREE). Serve Mushroom purée (see SAUCE) a gamefumet. based on onagamefumet. SAUCE) based pn CAILLES A LA r,,l, quails in jeUy. ca.rrrss À (canned) quails coNSERvE DE Tinned Tinned (canned) ielly. CONSERVE (7 oz.) pork, g. (7 fine pork, 200 g. oz.\ fine GELÉE ingredients. 200 csrfn -- Forcemeat Forcemeat ingredients. (see gratin game forcemeat (see (4 oz., ) gratin minced, minced, 100 100 gg (4 oz., 1-j cup) cup) À g. (7 (7 oz., generous i? cup) cookedfoie cup) cookedfoie FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEAT), 200 200 g. oz., generous (3 oz.) (net weight), brandy, salt, pepper gras,75 g. (3 brandy, salt, gras, 75 g. trufres (net oz.) truffles and spices. and spices. from beef, beef, made from stock made Liquor for stewing. meat jelly stock stewing. Strong Strong meatjelly Liquorfor the rinds and and the bacon rinds 11 veal feet, chicken, chicken, bacon veal knuckle, knuckle, calves' calves' feet, (fpint, scant cups) scant 22 cups) usual dl. (ipint, aromatics, 4a dl. usual vegetables and and aromatics, Madeira.

Canape ofjellied Canapé of jellied quails quails garnished garnished with with gras(Izdoyen. Nicolas) foie gras foie (Ledoyen. Phot. Phol. Nicolas)

the Remove the quails as an entrée. entrie. Remove as for Method. Method. Truss the the quails for an quails ftat the flat on on the spread the breastbone and spread backbone backbone and the breastbone the quails put quail put Inside each each quail with brandy. table. Season Season and sprinkle with brandy. Inside piece of/oie of foie with aa piece egg, with size of of an an egg, the size forcemeat the of the forcemeat a a piece piece of

in the middle. quarter of trufre, in of aa truffle, gras, studded with aa quarter studded with gras, the middle. piece of of buttered buttered in aa piece quails and each in wrap each and wrap the quails Reshape the pan. Cover Cover saut6 pan. buttered sauté paper. Pack into aa buttered tightly into Pack them tightly paper. previously be be should previously which should trimmings, which with the bones and trimmings, tossed in butter. to bring to and bring pint, scant Madeira and scant cup) cup) Madeira Moisten with 22 dl. (! $ pint, paper- Cook the in the Cook in of buttered buttered paper. sheet of the boil. boil. Cover with aa sheet gently with quails gently the with the minutes. Test the quails oven, covered, for 25 minutes. are out, they they are comes out, if no no blood blood cornes point of needle: if of aa trussing needle: point liquor. cooked. Cool in the braising liquor. into tins, tins, Put them them into them. Put and dry dry them. Drain the birds, unwrap and liquid Game Game jelly clarified liquid with clarified Cover with breast downwards. downwards. Cover ielly breast has liquor has (see JELL braising liquor which the the dil diluted to which stock (see JELLY), stock Y), to uted braising been added. added. been tins. Mark Mark lids of of the the tins. quite cold, cold, solder the lids is quite the jelly is When thejelly pan. Cover water. with cold cold water. Cover with the tins into aa big pan. them and and put the them are well well sure they they are to make make sure so as as to the tins tins so Put aa weight weight on on the Put uninterrupted of uninterrupted l0 minutes minutes of hour 10 them 1I hour submerged. Give Give them submerged. tins quail, and hours for for tins lf hours and li for tins tins containing containing 1I quail, boiling for boiling put them table on the the table them on the tins, tins, put quails. Drain Drain the containing 22 quails. containing up. placing them side up. them marked marked side other, placing separated from from each each other, separated quite cold. cold. Leave until until quite Leave wild four-year-old wild name for for aa four-year-old French name QUART ANTER -- French QUARTANIER boar. boar. quarter of beef forepart of of beef of the the forepart The quarter QUARTER. euARTIER -- The QUARTER. QUARTIER made The hindquarter hindquarter isis made sides. The and the the sides. includes the shoulder and the shoulder includes sirloin. up of of the the thigh thigh and and sirloin. up of to describe quarter isis spoken describe spoken ofto In French French butchery butchery aa'fifth' In 'fifth' quarter horns, skin, horns, parts of animal: skin, slaughtered animal: of the the slaughtered inedible parts all the the inedible aU hoofs and and tallow. tallow. hoofs of veal. veal. from the the rump rump of Piece from QU ASI -- Piece QUASI quarters) -- Household cake (Four quarters) Household cake QUATRE-QUARTS QUATRE-QUARTS (Four quantities of flour, butter butter of eggs, eggs, ftour, equal quantities made up up of of equal mixture, made mixture, (English pound pound cake.) cake.) and sugar. sugar. (English and (4 oz., with sugar with oz.,1cup) 100 g.g. (4 in aa bowl bowl 100 Beat together together in 1- cup) sugar Beat becomes the mixture mixture becomes until the small on ones either 22large eggs or or 33small es until either large eggs (4oz., flour, and and cup) sifted sifted ftour, Add 100 100 g.g. (4 oz.,l1 cup) white and and frothy. frothy. Add white with orangeorangeFlavour with (4 oz., butter. Flavour cup) melted melted butter. 100 g.g. (4 oz., * cup) 100 peel, or liqueur, and and any liqueur, lemon peel, or any or lemon blossom water, water,orange orange or blossom gentle heat heat oven at ataagentle pour into Cook in in the theoven mould. Cook intoaabuttered buttered mould. pour for 25 25 or 30minutes. minutes. or 30 for

t

jelly: quails, quails, quails ininjelly: Ingredients for quails Ingredients for Nicolas) ( Ledoyen. Phol. foie Phot. Nicolas) gras, truffle, orange (Ledoyen. foiegras, trufre, orange

753 753

QUENELLE QUENELLE Dumpling made madewith withfish fishor QLIENELLE - -Dumpling ormeat meat forcemeat forcemeat QUENELLE bound with eggs. The word is said to come from the Anglobound with eggs. The word is said to come from the AngloSaxon knyll,meaning to pound, to grind, because the flesh of knyll, meaning to pound, to grind, because the flesh of Saxon the meat or fish, before being turned into quenelles, must be the meat or fish, before being tumed into quenelles, must be pounded in a mortar. pounded in a mortar. are made with all kinds of meat, poultry, game, Quenelles are Quenelles made with ail kinds of meat, poultry, game,

Linewith with ordinary ordinary short short crust pastry (see (seeDOUGH, crust pastry DOUGH, Lining Lining Line p,gste)aapie piedish plate with dishor orplate withfluted flutededges, edges,20 20cm cm(8 inches) inin paste) (8 inches) diameterand and weil wellbuttered. buttered. The The pastry pastryshould shouldextend extend aalittle little diameter beyond the theedges. edges. beyond Putthin thinslices slices o( ofstreaky bacon, blanched blanchedand andlightly lightly fried fried Put streaky bacon, butter, inin the the bottom bottomof of this thisflan flancase. case. Fill Fillthe thecrust crustwith with aa inin butter, mixtule composed composedof of 44eggs eggs and and44dl. pint, scant dl. (i(} pint, scant 22cups) cups) mixture thick fresh fresh crea cream, seasoned with with salt saltand and weil well beaten. beaten. When m, seasoned thick Wtien the flan flan isisfilled, filled,add add22teaspoons teaspoons butter buttercut cut into into tiny pieces. tiny pieces. the Cook in inthe theoven oven at atmoderate moderate heat heat for for 30 30 to to 35 35 minutes. minutls. Serve Serve Cook very hot. hot. very Sometimes the pastry isis enriched the flan flan pastry enriched with with thin thin slices slices of Sometimes of Gruydre cheese, cheese, set set altemately alternately with with the the bacon. bacon. Gruyère

fish

and shellfish. They are made in different shapes, large and shellfish. They are made in different shapes, large and fish and small. The most important is the quenelle prepared with the smal!. The most important is the quenelle prepared with the forcemeat godiveau or called godiveau or Quenelle (see Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see forcemeat caIJed FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). particularly the the small small kind, kind, are Quenelles, particularly are used used as as an an Quenelles, elernent such garnishes asfinanciire, Godard, Toulouse, etc. element ininsuch garnishes asfinancière, Godard, Toulouse, etc. Large quenelles, which are generally embellished are generally embellished with with Large quenelles, which truffies, pickled tongue, etc., are used as a more elaborate tru ffies , pickled tongue, etc., are used as a more elaborate garnish for large braised fish or entties. They are also used to garnish for large braised fish or entrées. They are also used to prepare tarts, timbales and, other preparations of the same prepare tarts, timbales and other preparations of the sa me kind. kind. gras. euENELLEs DE ForE cRAs - pound a of foie foie gras. Quenelles of Quenelles QUENELLES DE FOIE GRAS - Pound a raw foie gras and rub it through a fine sieve. pound half as raw foie gras and rub it through a fine sieve. Pound half as much raw chicken flesh as thereisfoiegras, mixing in with it, much raw chic ken flesh as there isfoie gras, mixing in with it, little by little, half its weight of Bread panada(see pANADA). little by little, halfits weight of Bread panada (see PAN ADA). Rub this forcemeat through a sieve. Put it back in the mortar Rub this forcemeat through asieve. Put it back in the mortar and pound again, adding to it, little by little, the pur6e of foie and pound again, adding to it, little by httle, the purée of foie gras and or 4 egg yolks. Season with salt, pepper and spices. gras and 33 or 4 egg yolks. Season with salt, pepper and spices. Beat this forcemeat on ice. Beat this forcemeat on ice. Make the quenelles in the usual way (with a spoon or with a Make the quenelles in the usual way (with a spoon or with a forcing bag) and poach them in salted water. forcing bag) and poach them in salted water. of Meat, meat, veal, veal, chicken, chicken, game. game. QUENELLES Quenelles DE euENELLEs DE Quenelles of VIANDES, vEAU, VoLAILLE, GIBIER - prepare in the same way as VIANDES, VEAU, VOLAILLE, GIBIER - Prepare in the same way as those for pike. (See FORCEMEATS, euenelle forcemeat; tbose for pike. (See FORCE ME ATS, Quenelle PIKE, Pike quenelles.) PIKE, Pike quenelles.) pike of mousseline. Quenelles DE BROCHET BRocrrET euENELLEs DE Quenelles of pike mousseline. QUENELLES MoussELrNE Made with with Mousseline (see Made Mousseline forcemeat forcemeat (see MOUSSELINE FORCEMEAT). Mould in a tablespoon, lay in a buttered FORCEMEAT). Mould in a tablespoon, lay in a buttered saut6 pan, and poach in boiling salted water from 8 to l0 poach in boiling salted water from 8 to 10 sauté pan, and minutes according to size. minutes according to size. Drain, dry, and place on a crofiton of bread fried fried in in butter butter Drain, dry, and place on a croûton ofbread or on puffpastry crusts. Garnish and sauce are according to or on puff pastry crusts. Gamish and sauce are according to the particular recipe. Mousseline quenelles may be prepared the particular recipe. Mousseline quenelles may be prepared in the same way, using other fish: whiting, brill, sole, salmon, in the same way, using other fish: whiting, brill, sole, salmon, trout. trout.

Lorraine Quiche Lorraine

(old recipe) --'Roll Lorraine (old thinly as possible Quiche Lorraine 'Roll out as thinly some bread bread dough. dough. Put this this sheet of dough on a metal dish sorne put small with raised raised and and fluted fluted edges, edges, sprinkled with flour. flour. Put with pieces ofvery fresh fresh butter butter ail all over over the dough. pieces ofvery 'Fill the dish with with a mixture of 'Fill the pie pie dish of thick cream and eggs well Cook in a very weil beaten beaten together together and seasoned with salt. Cook hot oven for Serve very hot oven for aa maximum maximum of of l0 10 minutes. Serve very hot.' Little cbeese. pETlrEs PETITES erncrrEs QUICHES AU AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE Little quiches quiches with cheese. Line Line tartlet tarti et cases cases with with short crust cru st pastry (see (see DOUGH, Lining Lining paste). pas te). Put Put Gruyire Gruyère cheese, cheese, cut into very small pieces, pieces, in in the the bottom bottom of of these these cases. cases. Fill Fill them with a mixture of cream cream and and eggs. eggs. Cook Cook in in the oven for for 14 14 or or 15 minutes. minutes. Turn Tum out out and and serve serve very very hot. hot. Little with ham. barn. psrrrEs PETITES etrtcrrs QUICHES AU AU JAMBoN JAMBON Little quiches quiches with Proceed Proceed as as in in the the last last recipe, recipe, replacing replacing the the cheese by by lean lean cooked cooked ham ham cut cut up up into into small small pieces. pieces.

QUIGNON QUIGNON - Big Big wedge wedge of of bread bread cut cut from from one one of of the the larger larger French French loaves. loaves.

QTIILLET QUILLET @ttisserie) (pâtisserie) - This This sweetmeat sweetmeat was was created created in in aa

Parisianpdrisserie which was was managed managed for for aa long long time time by by M. M. Parisian pâtisserie which Charabot, Charabot, one one of ofthe the masters masters of of French French pastr!-making. pastry-making. This This isis the the recipe: recipe: Put Put in in aa copper copper basin basin 500 500 g.g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) sugar, sugar, and and 15 15 whole whole eggs, eggs, powdered powdered vanilla vanilla and and aa very very small smalJ pinch pinch of ofsalt. salt. Beat Beatwith with aa whisk whisk over over aa gentle gentleheat, heat, without without letting lettingititget get too too hot. hot. When thickened remove halfthickened removeititand and continue continue Wh en the themixture mixtureisis half to to beat beatitit away away from from the the heat heatuntil until ititisis almost almostcold. cold. Then Then add add 500 500g.g. (18 (18oz., oz.,4|cups) 41cups)sieved sievedflour, flour, sprinkled sprinkledininaashower, shower,and and 500 (18 oz., oz., 2|cups) 2icups) melted meltedbutter. butter. 500g.g. (18 Fill Fillround roundcake caketins tinswith withthe themixture. mixture. Bake Bakeininthe theoven ovenatataa moderate moderate heat. heat. Cool Cool the the cakes cakes and and fill fill them them with with the the following followingbutter buttercream cream:: Heat (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant ! Heat together together in in aa saucepan saucepan I1dl. dl. (6 cup) cup)milk, milk,55dl. dl.(scant (scantpint, pint,2f 2icups) cups)28" 28°syrup syrup(see (seeSUGAR), SUGAR), Z2O. dl. (3(1pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) Orgeat Orgeatsyrup syrup(see (seeORGEAT) ORGEAT) and and aa

Quenelles of pike princesse

Quenelles ofpike princesse

pike princesse. euENELLEn Quenelles Quenelles of of pike princesse. QUENELLES DE DE BRocrrEr BROCHET PRrNcEssE - Set the above quenelles on a border of pike PRINCESSE - Set the above quenelles on a border of Pike (see forcemeat FORCEMEATS) with with truffies. truffies. Decorate Decorate the the forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) middle of the dish with asparagus tips. Coat wfth Normande middle of the dish with asparagus tips. Coat with Normande sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). quiche QUICI{E QUICHE -- The The quiche or or kiche, kiche, as as the the word word isis sometimes sometimes spelt, originates in Lorraine. spelt, originates in Lorraine. There are several kinds of quiche. Each region of Lorraine There are sever al kinds of quiche. Each region of Lorraine or Alsace has its own. The name is also used for some custard or Alsace bas its own. The name is also used for sorne custard tarts tarts served served as as aa sweet, sweet, though though the the real real quiche, quiche, that that of of Lorraine, is always served as hors-d'euvre and never for the Lorraine, is always served as hors-d'œuvre and never for the sweet course. sweet course.

f

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QUINTAL QUINTAL boiling boiling water. water. Drain, Drain, and and cook cook them them in in aa vanilla vanilla syrup. syrup. Arrange or timbale, timbale, and and pour pour over over them them the the Arrange them them in in aa dish dish or

vanilla vanillapod. pod.Cook Cookthis thismixture mixturefor foraafew fewmoments, moments,then thenpourit pour it over over 88egg eggyolks yolks in in aa basin. basin. Blend Blend well weil with with aa whisk. whisk. Reheat Reheat the Pour the mixture mixture gently gently without without allowing allowing itit to to boil. boil. Cool. Cool. Pour onto onto 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) butter butter which which has has been been put put through through aa sieve. sieve. Mix Mix well. weil. Keep Keep this this butter butter cream cream in in aa needed. cool place placeuntil untilititisis needed. cool and pipe pipe some sorne through through aa Fill the the cake cake with with the the cream, cream, and Fill forcing-bag over overthe the top. top. Decorate Decoratewith with sugar. sugar. forcing-bag

syrup syrupinin which which they they were werecooked. cooked .. Quince Quincejelly. jeUy.crltr GELÉE DE DE coINGs COINGS-- Made Madewith withan an equal equal weight weight of ielly (see of sugar sugar and and quince quince juice, juiee, like like Apple Appleje//y (see JAMS JAMS AND AND

JELLIES). JELLIES). Quince LIQUEUR. Quinceliqueur liqueur or or ratafia ratafia (quince (quince water) water) -- See See LIQUEUR. Made in the Quince Quince marmalade. marmalade. MARMELADE MARMELADE DE DE colNcs COINGS -- Made in the sameway Apple marmalade marmalade (see (see MARMALADES). MARMALADES). same way as as Apple Quince Quince paste. paste. pAre PÂTE nr DE colNcs COINGS -- Make Make some sorne quince quinee marmalade marmalade in in the the same same way way as as Apple Apple marrnalade marmalade (see (see MARMALADES). MARMALADES). Boil Boil down down to to aa good good thick thick consistency. consistency. Put Put itit on on aa shallow shallow baking baking dish dish and and dry dry in in aa warm warm oven. oyen. Cut Cut the the paste paste into into square square or or rectangular rectangular slices. slices. Dust Dust them them with with crystallised in aa dry dry place. place. crystallised sugar. sugar. Keep Keep in

QUINCE. coINGCOING - Fruit Fruit of ofthe the quince, quince,aa common common tree tree which which QUINCE. tobe beas aswell weil known known as asthe theapple appleand andthe thevine. vine. ItIthas has aatart tart usedto used and astringent astringent flavour, flavour, aa very very sweet sweet smell, srnell, and and cannot cannot be be and eaten eaten raw. raw. It It is is full full of of pectin pectin and and is is used used for for jellies, jellies, jams, jams, mannalade, syrups, syrups, and and home-made home-made liqueurs. liqueurs. (See (See JAMS JAMS marmalade, AND JELLIES.) JELLIES.) AND Quince compote. compote. coMPorE COMPOTE DE DE coINGs COINGS -- Cut Cut ripe ripe quinces quinees Quince into and blanch blanch them them for for aa few few minutes minutes in in into quarters. quarters. Trim, Trim, and

QUINTAL QUINTAL - Name Name of of aa variety variety of of cabbage. cabbage.

Qrrnes(Evereinof, Quinœs (Evereinoff. Truffaut) G e o r ge Truffaut) C o p yr i gh t George Copyright

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W RABBIT. LAprN Small rodent of the hare family, of African RABBIT. LAPIN - - Small rodent of the hare family,- of African origin. There are several breeds of rab rabbit. Thefur fur isis origin. There are several breeds of bit. The sometimes white, sometimes grey, or black and tan, or sometimes white, sometimes grey, or black and tan, or mottled. mottled. The domestic rabbit should be eaten young, when it is from The domestic rabbit should be eaten young, when it is from 3 to 3| months old. A young rabbit catt be recognised by the 3 to J! months old. A young rabbit can be recognised by the following: a short neck, plump knees, and very-flexible iront following: a short neck, plump knees, and very flexible front legs, which can be bent about at will. legs, which can be bent about at will. The warren rabbit, the typical species of wild rabbit, is The warren rabbit, the typical species of wild rabbit, is prodigiously fertile. prodigiously fertile. Fulbert-Dumonteil, the poet of good eating, praised it Fulbert-Dumonteil, the poet of good eating, praised it in these terms: in these terms: 'It provides feast for countryman and labourer. It is the 'It provides aa feast for countryman and labourer. It is the youngster's game. It is present on all festive occasions, be it a is present on ail festive occasions, be it a youngster's game. It suburban wedding or a village christening. Its appetising suburban wedding or a village christening. Its appetising aroma pervades farmhouse and cottage alike.' aroma pervades farmhouse and cottage alike.' The flesh of rabbit is fairly white and somewhat less fattv The flesh of rabbit is fairly white and somewhat less fatty than that ofpoultry. Its flavour depends a great deal on its than that of poultry. Its flavour depends a great deal on its feeding. It is more stringy and less delicate than white feeding. It is more stringy and less delicate than white poultry, but quite as readily digestible. poultry, but quite as readily digestible.

However, sufferers sufferersfrom fromdyspepsia, dyspepsia,hepatitis, However, hepatitis, colitis colitisare are advisedtotoavoid avoidfricassée fricass6e of ofrabbit, rabbit, and advised andailallsimilar similarsaucesaucebasedrabbit rabbitdishes. dishes. based RabbitCoquibus. Coquibus.LAPIN LAprNCOQUIBUS coernrus - -Joint Rabbit bit and Jointaarab rabbit putitit andput foraatime timeininaamarinade. marinade.Sauté Saut6ititvery quickly.Add veryquickly. for Add24 24small imall onions and andthe thesa same numberofstrips of stripsoflean onions me number of leanblanched blanched bacon. bacon. attthese theseingredients. ingredients. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with1Iheaped Fry ail heapedtablespoon tablespoon !V flour, and and brown brown for for aafew fewseconds. seconds.Moisten Moistenwith flour, with 22dl. dl.(i($pint, pint, scant cup) cup) white white wine, wine, aafew few tablespoons tablespoons c1ear scant clearsoup soupand anOthe ttre marinade, strained. strained. Add Add aa large large bouquet marinade, bouquet garni garni of parsley, oi parsley, bay leaves leaves and and savory. savory.Boil Boil for thyme, for 1515minutes. minutes.Put eui400 +OOg.g. thy-., bay (14 oz.) oz.) small small new new potatoes potatoes in in the the saucepan. (14 saucepan. Cover Coverand andcook coo-k for 45 45 minutes. minutes. for Fricassee of of rabbit. rabbit. GIBELOTTE crBELorrE -- This Fricassée Thisfricassée, which isis fricassie. which called gibelore in in French, French, isis made calledgibelolle made with with white white or or red red wine. (See wine. (See below, Young Young wild wild rabbit rabbit engibelolle.) below, en gibelotte.) Saut6ed rabbit proceed rabbit with with curry. curry. LAPIN LAprN SAUTÉ Sautéed sAurf AU lu CURRIE cunnrc -- Proceed as for for Sautéed Sautied rabbit rabbit with paprika, substituting with paprika, as substituting Indian Indian curry curry powder for paprika. Serve for paprika. Serve with powder with Rice Rice àd l'indienne (see RICE). l,indienne (see RICE). Saut6ed rabbit rabbit witb pApRrKA'_ papdka. LAPIN with paprika. Sautéed LAprN SAUTÉ s^lur6 AU AU PAPRIKA

To skin a rabbit, first make two cuts from the abdomen along each thigh to free To skin a rabbit, first make two cuts from the abdomen alongeach thigh to freethe thehindlegs; hindlegs;then tb.enholding holdingthe theanimal animalby bythe thehindlegs hindlegsininthe theright right hand, hand, peel peel off theleft lefthand hand offthe theskin skinwith withthe

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RABBIT RAB BIT (Izrousse) How Howtotoclean cleanand andcut eutaarabbit rabbit (Larousse)

Make an incision as far as the breast

Place Place the the rabbit rabbit on on its its back back and and slit slit open open the the stomach stomach

Make an incision as far as the breast

Empty the intestines into a bowl Empty the intestines into a bowl

ofthe contents of Cut away away the contents the abdomen

Cut ofrthe hindlegs Cut off the hindlegs

frontlegs legs the front rernove the and remove onits itsside sideand rabbiton Lay Lay the the rabbit

out thrownout portionofofthe thoraxtotobebethrown Cut the thorax frontportion thefront Cutaway awaythe

Oivide the rabbit in two

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RABIOLE

RABIOLE

pAr6OU Pottedwild wildrabbit p0t6.PÂTÉ rabbltororpâté. ouTERRINE TERRTNEDE DELAPEREAULAIEREAU _ Potted preparationsare Thesepreparations aremade madewith withboned bonedrabbit rabbitstuffed stuffedwith These with pottedhare porkininthe p6tiofofhare thesame sameway wayasasPotted hareororPâté (see hare(see pork HARE). HARE). proceedasasfor Roastyoung youngwild wildrabbit. rabbit.LAPEREAU LAIEREAURÔTI n6n- -Proceed for Roast (seeHARE). Roasthare hare(see HARE). Roast Youngwild wlldrabblt rabbitsautéed saut6edàilaleminute. minute.LAPEREAU LAIEREAUSAUTÉ sAur6ÀALA ra Young jointthe rtrrNUTE - - Skin, Skin,draw drawand andjoint therabbit, rabbit, taking takingcare carethe the MINUTE bonesdo notsplinter. donot splinter.Season Season with withsalt pepper. saltand andpepper. bones quickly ininvery veryhot hotbutter butterin heivyiron panuntil in aaheavy iron pan Brown ititquickly until __Brown allthe piecesare thepieces goodcolour. areaagood colour. Shake panfrequently Shake the thepan frequently and and ail turn over pieces so overthe thepieces sothat thatthey theyare arecooked cookedail allthrough. through.As As turn soonas asitit isisready, ready, put put the a-ndkeep the rabbit rabbit ininaapie piedish dish~'1d keepitit soon warm. warm. juiceswith Dilute the panjuices the pan with1! l+dl. pint,-jt cup) dl.(i(+pint, cup)white white wine. wine. Dilute Add 1I chopped chopped shallot. shallot. Boil Boil down down the sauceuntil thesauce untilitit isisvery very Add concentrated. Add Add thickened thickened brown brown veal vealstock. stock. concentrated. Boil for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Add Add 1I tablespoon tablespoon butter butter and Boil and aa juice. Pour sque€zeof of lem lemon Pour over over the the rabbit. ta-bbit. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with on juice. squeeze chopped parsley. parsley. chopped RABIOLE -- Variety Variety of of kohl-rabi kohl-rabi or or turnip. turnip. RABIOLE

Pieces of Pieces of cut rabbit cut rabbit

RABOTTE or or DOUILLON DOUILLON -- Fruit Fruit dumpling dumpling of RABOTTE of Norman Norman origrn. The The fruit, fruit, mostly mostly apple pear, isis enclosed apple or or pear, enclosed in origin. in aa shortcrust pastry pastry to to make make aa douillette (a priest's douillette (a priest's overcoat), shortcrust overcoat), from which which word word cornes comes its its name. name. It It isis then tfien cooked cooked in in the from the oven. oven.

Joint the rabbit and steep it in a marinade. Cook very slowly Joint the rabbit and steep it in a marinade. Cook very slowly in butter, until tender, 100 g. (4 oz., I cup) sliced onion. 100 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) sliced onion. in butter, until tender, Brown the rabbit in the same pan. Season with 2 teaspoon Brown the rabbit in the same pan. Season with 2 teaspoon paprika. paprika. When the pieces of rabbit are well fried, sprinkle with I rabbit are weil fried, sprinkle with 1 When the pieces of heaped tablespoon flour, which should take on a golden heaped tablespoon flour, which should take on a golden colour but should not brown. Moisten with f glasiwhite colour but should not brown. Moisten with ! glass white wine. Boil down and add enough clear stock jusi to cover the wine. Boil down and add enough c1ear stock just to cover the rabbit. Strain the marinade and add it to the stock. Dice rabbit. Strain the marinade and add it to the stock. Dice coarsely 150 g. (5 cups) mushrooms mushrooms and in oz., 21 cups) and put put them them in coarsely 150 g. (5 oz.,2t the pan. Cover and cook for 35 minutes. Add 5 tablespoons (6. the pan. Cover and cook for 35 minutes. Add 5 tablespoons (6 tablespoons) thick fresh cream. Keeping the pan coverei, tablespoons) thick fresh cream. Keeping the pan covered, simmer for about 35 minutes until thc rabbit is cooked. simmer for about 35 minutes until the rabbit is cooked. Before serving, add a little more fresh cream. Before serving, add a !ittle more fresh cream.

RACHEL -- See See GARNISHES. RACHEL RACLETTE -- Variety of Swiss cheese cheese fondue, RACLETTE of fondue, speciality of the canton canton of of Valais, made by holding holding a big piece piecebf the of the local cheese fire and scraping scraping off oflthe softened part as it melts. the softened cheese to to the the fire The cheese scrapings scrapings are are eaten eaten with potatoes and with jacket The cheese jacket potatoes accompanied accompanied by Fendant, the heady white wine wine of of Valais.

YOUNG yOUNG WILD WILD RABBIT. RABBIT. LApEREAU LAPEREAU - The The flesh flesh of of this this rabbit is somewhat firmer than that of the domestic rabbit. It rab bit is somewhat firmer than that of the domestic rab bit. It has also more flavour, though frequently it is spoiled by

RACOON. RACOON. RAroN-LAvEUR RATON-LAVEUR - Small Small wild animal, with with longish grey America. It grey fur, fur, living living in in the forests of America. It isis edible and cooked cooked like like wild wild rabbit.

mustiness.

RADISH. RADISH. nlorsRADIS- Plant Plant of of the the Cruciferaefamily, Cruciferae family, ofwhich ofwhich the root edible. Cultivated Cultivated in in China, China, Japan Japan and and the the Indies Indies in in the root isis edible. most most remote remote areas, areas, the the radish radish is is found found now now in in all ail the temperate of Europe. Europe. temperate regions regions of of radish: round, long, long, There are are aa great great many many varieties varieties of . Thgtg pink, and purple. purple. pink, black, black, white white and All hors-d'œuvre with with butter butter Ali the the radishes radishes are are eaten eaten raw raw as as hors-d'euvre

RACAHOUT -- Mixture Mixture of of starches starches which, which, according according to RACAHOUT to Dorvault, must must be be made made in in the following following proportions: proportions : 50 (2 Dorvault, 50 g. E. (2 oz.) each each of of cocoa, cocoa, acorn acorn flour flour and and rice rice flour; flour; 45 g. (I! (l! oz.) oz.) 45 g. ozi;.) flour, 15 15 g. potalp flour, oz.) salep, salep, 250 g. (9 (9 oz.) 250 g. oz)) white white sugar, potato (! oz.) e.(t sugar, g. (-!(* oz.) oz.) vanilla vanilla sugar. sugar. Prepared Prepaied like drinking drinking chocolate. chocolatJ 55 g.

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has also more flavour, though frequently it is spoiled by mustiness. Bhnquette of young wild rebbit. upBnsAU EN BLANeuETTE .Blanquette of young wild rabbit. LAPEREAU EN BLANQUETTECut the rabbit into sections and proceed as for Blanquette of Cut the rabbit into sections and proceed as for Blanquette of lamb(see LAMB). lamb (see LAMB). Bolled young wild rabbit i I'anglaise. LArEREAU sounI,r i BoiJed young wild rabbit à J'anglaise. LAPEREAU BOUILLI À L'ANGLAIsE- Draw the rabbit by making a very small incision L' ANGLAISE- Draw the rabbit by making a very smalJ incision in the belly. Stuffit with a stuffin gd I'anglaisemade from onein the belly. Stuffit with a stuffing à l'anglaise made from onethird veal or ox kidneys, one-third best veal fat or udder, onethird vea! or ox kidneys, one-third best vea! fat or udder, onethird sandwich bread soaked in milk and squeezed dry. Add I third sandwich bread soaked in milk and squeezed dry. Add 1 egg- to every | kg. (18 oz.) stuffing. Season with salt; pepper egg to every 1 kg. (18 oz.) stuffing. Season with salt, pepper and spices. Having stuffed the rabbit, sew up the opening and and spices. Having stuffed the rabbit, sew up the openirig and truss. Simmer it in salted water for about I hour. Servqwith truss. Simmer it in salted water for about 1 hour. Serve with Caper sauie (see SAUCE). Caper sauce (see SAUCE). Young wild rabbit chasseur, or sautd with mushrooms. Young wild rabbit cbasseur, or sautéed with musbrooms. LAIER.EAU seur6 Atx cHAMprcNoNs, cHAssBUR LAPEREAU SAUTÉ AUX CHAMPIGNONS, CHASSEUR -- Joint Joint the the rabbit. Season with salt, pepper, thyme and powdered bay rab bit. Season with salt, pepper, thyme and powdered bay leaf and cook with mushrooms or chasseur. following thl leaf and cook with mushrooms or chasseur, following the recipcs given under VEAL, Sautied veal chasseur. or with recipes given under VEAL, Sautéed veal chasseur, or with mushrooms. mushrooms. Youlg Youngwlld wild rrbbit rabbit en englbelotte. gibelotte. LAeEREAU LAPEREAU EN EN crBBLorrE GIBELOTTE -This is prepared in exactly the same way as Civet of hare (see This is prepared in exactly the sa me way as Civet ofhare (see HARE) except that white wine is often used instiad of red HARE) except tbat white wine is often used instead of red wine. It is also quite usual to add quartered potatoes or small wine. It is also quite usual to add quartered potatoes or small potato balls to this gibelotte. potato balls to this gibelotte.

and and salt. salt. The The tender tender leaves leaves of ofpink pink radishes radishes can can also also be be eaten. eaten. Raw, Raw, they they are are put put in in salad; salad; cooked, cooked, they they are are used used like Iike spinach. spinach. Pink Pink radishes radishes may may also also be be served served hot, hot, cookid cooked like like new new

turnips. turnips.

Black RADIS NorRs NOIRS -- After After having having been been peeled, peeled, Black radishes. radisbes. RADrs

black and put put to to soak soak in in salt salt for for black radishes radishes are are cut cut into into rounds rounds and 30 30minutes. minutes. The Therounds roundsare arethen thenwashed washed and and served servedin in aa radish radish dish. dish. Plnk RADIS RosEs ROSES AÀr.l LA cntr,c CRÈME-- peel Peel the the Pink radishes radisbesinincream. cream. RADrs radishes andblanch blanchininsalted saltedwater. water.Drain Drainand andstew stewinin butter. butter. radishesand When Ji dl. dl. When they they are are cooked cooked add add the the cream, cream, allowing allowing 3+ (ge-nerous pint, Il cups) cups) cream cream for for every every 500 500 g.ltdoz.) g. (18 oz.) (generous ! pint, radishes. radishes. Boil Boil down downthe thecream cream by byone-third. one-third. Serve Serveinin aa deep deep

j

lj

dish. dish.

Glazed RADIS Rosrs ROSES cr.lc6s GLACÉS - peel Peel the the Glazed pink pink radishes. radishes. RADrs radishes, radishes,blanch blanchthern themfor for55minutes minutesininsalted saltedwater. water,drain drainand and

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RAGOOT RAGOÛT cool coolinincold coldwater. water.Toss Tossininbutter butterover overaagood goodheat, heat,sprinkling sprinkling them them with with aa little little sugar. sugar. When When they they are are lightly lightly coloured coloured moisten moisten them them with with sufficient sufficient stock stock or orwater water barely barely toto cover cover them. Simmer Simmer covered, covered, until until they they have have absorbed absorbed all ail the the them. and liquid. liquid. At Atthis this point point the the radishes radishes should should be becooked cooked and well well glazed. glazed. IfIfthey the yare are still still hard, hard, add add more moreliquid liquid and and boil boil down down once once more. more. Pink Pink radises radisbes in in stock. stock. RADIS RADIS RosEs ROSES AU AU JUs JUS -- Cook Cook the the radishes radishes in in salt salt water. water. When Whenthey they are arecooked cookeddrain drain them them and and moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of ofmeat meat stock stock boiled boiled down down moisten until itit isis thick thick and and brown. brown. Simmer Simmer gently. gently. until Pink Pink radishes radisbes poulette. poulette. RADIs RADIS RosEs ROSES AÀ Il LA pournrrs POULETTE -- Cook Cook the radishes radishes as as above, above, moistening moistening them them with with Poulette Poulette sauce sauce the (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Simmer Simmer gently gently in in the the sauce. sauce.

put them in another Drain Drainthe thepieces piecesof ofmeat; meat;trim trimthem, them, put them in another they were cooked, pot potor orininthe theiame samepot pot-- cleaned cleaned-- ininwhich which they were cooked, and pour over the cover cover them them with with tle the specified specified vegetables vegetables and pour over the sau@, thefat fatremoved. removed. sauce,straincd strainedand andwith withthe gently, for 45 minutes to I Cook Cookcovered, covered, simmering simmeringvery very gently, for 45 minutes to 1 used. Cooking in meat of kind to the according hour hour according to the kind of meat being being used. Cooking in the theoven ovenisisbest. best. putting the pieces of meat Serve or deep deep plate, plate, putting the pieces of meat Serve in in aa dish dish or the boiling hot sauce top. on vegetables the and below below and the vegetables on top. Pour Pour the boiling hot sauce over over all. ail.

(trimming the drained The The method method recommended recommended above above (trimming the drained

pot with the strained and pieces pieces and and putting putting them them in in another another pot with the strained and

dish. In home ie-greasedde-greased sauce) sauce) gives gives a a better-looking better-Iooking dish. In home and the accomcooling, cooking, this tbis complication complication can can be be avoided avoided and the accom-

ragofrtw|rthont panying panyingvegetableJcan vegetables can be be put put directly directlyinto into the the ragoût without pots. changing changing pots. or d l'anglalse' Put Aithitt Method of of cooking cookingfor for ragofrts ragoûts dà blanc blanc or à l'anglaise. Put in a saut6 paD, the the pieces pieces of of meat, meat, cut cut in in pieces pieces as as above, above, in a sauté pan, and chopped alternately of potatoes potatoes cut cut in in slices, slices, and chopped alternately with with layers layers of pepper and put tbouquet garni and with salt Season onions. onions. Season with salt and pepper and put a bouquet garni in in the the centre. centre. quantity to cover Pour Pour over over water water or or stock stock in in sufrcient sufficient quantity to cover good heat, then meat Start cooking cooking on on a a good heat, then meat and and vegetables. vegetables. Start heat for about cover cover and and cook cook in in the the oven oven or or over over aa very very low low heat for about lIli- hours. hours. Serve ragoût. Serve in in the the same same way way as as for for the the brown brown ragofrt. given in the recipe for Rago0t Ragoût ià la la banquiCre banquière -- Ingredients Ingredients given in the recipe for (iee GARNISHES) mixed and bound with garnislr (see Banqiiire Banquière garnish GARNISHES) mixed and bound with good sauce. thick a a good thick sauce. pastry cases, timbales, pies, vol'au'vent' for as filling Used Used as filling for pastry cases, timbales, pies, vol-au-vent. bearded; oysters, bearded; Poached oysters, la cancalaise cancalaise - Poached Rago0t à la Ragoût (see SAUCE). to bind bind (see SAUCE). sauce to Normande sauce shrimps; Normande shrimps; pastry cases, cases, timbales, pies, vol-au-vent, for pastry filling for as filling Used as timbales, pies, vol-au-vent, Used

Ragofits are RAGOOT RAGOûT -- Ragoûts are made made from from meat, meat, fowl fowl or or fish fish cut cut in in pieces pieces of of regular regular shape shape and and size, size, browned browned or or cooked cooked without without or without without an an a@ompaniment accompaniment of of vegetvegetcolouring and and with with or colouring ables. ables. The 'brown' ragofrts, ragoûts, of of which which the the best-known best-known type type is is the the The 'brown' mutton (see mutton or Ragofit Ragoût of ofmutton or Navarin Navarin of ofmutton (see MUTTON), MUTTON), are are prepared prepared by by frying frying the the meat meat lightly, lightly, sprinkling sprinkling with with flour fiour and and adding stock, stock, meat meat juices juices or or water. adding The The uncoloured uncoloured ragoAfi ragoûts - dà blanc,sometimes blanc, sometimes described described as as dà atd I'anglaise, be confused with with blanquettes blanquettes and l'anglaise, which must not be fricassées -- belong to the category of of poached poached food. food. They They fricassies have that created created by by the the addition addition of of have no thickening thickening other than that is Irish these ragofits potatoes potatoes to to their their preparation. preparation. Typical Typical of ofthese ragoûts is Irish stew. are various ragofrts are under the Also included under Aiso included the name name of of ragoûts various bound with garnishes, composed of one or more composed of more ingredients, bound with garnishes, used a white or brown liaison, with a meat or meatless stock, used other and other preparing entrées, embellish fish, fowl, eggs and entCes, or to embellish in preparing (See GARNISHES.) GARMSHES.) preparations. {See those especially those ragofrls, especially that meat meat ragoûts, to note note that It isis as as well well to It (q.v.), are particularly indigestible. indigestible. are particularly roux (q.v.), incorporatitg aa roux incorporating conwith excellent excellent conthose with only those dieticians, only According to to the the dieticians, According ragofrts. should eat eat ragoûts. stitutions stitutions should

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etc. etc. pn cfrnnt-nevn - Celeriac cut RAcoOr DE of celeriac. celeriac. RAGOÛT Ragott of CÉLERI-RAVE - Celeriac cut Ragoût and bound in a in butter butter and stewed in 'pigeon's eggs', eggs', stewed look like like 'pigeon's to look to bound in a (see SAUCE). sauce Cream Cream sauce (see SAUCE). as Ragoût uses as RagoAt àdhbanquiite. Same uses Same la banquière. chestnuts, braised chestnuts, of braised Composed of la cévenole c6venole -- Composed Rago0t ài la Ragoût streaky (lean) bry9o' diced streaky coarsely diced glazed onions, and coarsely onions, and small glazed small (Jean) bacon, with the cooking bound with whole bound the whole fried, the lightly fried, and lightly blanched and blanched the cooking garnish should aocomthis garnish which this meat which braised meat of the the braised liquor of liquor should accom(see SAUCE) sauce Demi'glace rich pany thick, with or with thick, rich Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) pany -- or Madeira. with Madeira. flavoured with fiavoured See CARP, Carp Chambord. Chambord -- See la Cbambord Ragott ài la CARP, Carp Chambord. Ragoût chestnuts, small of braised braised chestnuts, Composed of chipolata -- Composed Rrgott chipolata Ragoût small sausages. Thig chipolata sausages. and mushrooms onio*, $azed onions, mushrooms and chipolata glazed This (see SAUCE) sauce with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) boundwith which isis bound iagofit, which ragoût, garnish for large cuts of asgarnish used as Madeira, isis used with Madeira, flavoured with fiavoured for large cuts of meat. red or oven-roasted braised braised or oven-roasted red meat. RAGoOT os cRBrBs nr kidneys. and Ragott ofcocks'combs Ragoût of cocks' combs and kidoeys. RAGOÛT DE CRÊTES ET used to garnish poultry, as Thisragoût, ragoA4 used DECOQ coe - - This DEROGNONS RocNoNsDE to garnish poultry, as DE pastry cases, for riee borders, other or vol-au-venr filling for filling for vol-au-vent or other pastry cases, for ri ce borders, cooked in a kidneys cooked andkidneys combs and ofcocks' cocks' combs up of etc., isismade madeup in a etc., with a white (q.v.) bound and court-bouillon flour-and-watei fiour-and-water court-bouillon (q.v.) and bound with a white preparation. of type to the a@ordingto the type of preparation. sauce according brown sauce orbrown or used to accompany This ragoût ragofrt isisused fnancidre - -This Ragottài lalafinancière Ragoût to accompany pies, vol-au' timbales, for filling well as poultry, as and meat meat and poultry, as well as for filling timbales, pies, vol-auis made up of entrCes.It mixedentrées. other mixed andother ienborders bordersand vent,rice It is made up of vent, mushand mushtrufres and kidneys,truffies andkidneys, quenelles,cocks' combsand cocks'combs quenelles, peeled olives and bound with peeled sometimes with completedsometimes rboms,completed rooms, olives and bound (see SAUCE). sauce(see wthFinancière Financidre sauce with SAUCE). See GARNISHES. Godarit - -See RagofitàilalaGodard Ragoût GARNISHES. on nou.lxp A ll RAc'oOrDE cardinel.RAGOÛT i la of lobster Rago&t of lobster à la cardinal. Ragoût HOMARD À LA sliced, cooked mixtureofofsliced, ofa amixture composed of Ragofrtcomposed clnprNlr - -Ragoût CARDINAL cooked bound mushrooms and trufles cooked of slices and lobster, lobster, and slices of cooked truffies and mushrooms bound (see SAUCE). sauce Cardinal very thick with with very tbick Cardinal sauce (see SAUCE). pastrycases, cases, timbales, vol'au-vent, etc' forpastry fillingfor Usedasasfilling Used timbales, vol-au-vent, etc.

(/,arorasse) panfor forragoûts ragofits(Larousse) Round pan Round

the meat, meat, Ctrt up up the 'brown' ragoûts. ragofrts- Cut cooking 'brown' Method of ofcooking Method long' inches)long. cm.(2(2inches) piecesabout about55cm. not,into intopieces ornot, whether whether boned boned or hot smoking hot pan, ininsmoking saut6pan, goodheat heatininaasauté over aagood Brown Brown them themover pinchof sugar ofsugar pepperand and aapinch salt, pepper withsalt, clarified Seasonwith fat.Season clarifiedfat. goodnatural natural preparation aagood givesthe thepreparation (theaddition ofsugar (the sugar gives additionof colour). colour). pouroff ofrthreebrowned' pour arebrowned, piecesof meatare ofmeat As threesoonasasthe thepieces Assoon little, colouraalittle, letititcolour andlet withfiour flourand quarters of fat.Sprinkle Sprinklewith quarters ofthe thefat. meat stockorormeat water,stock Stirininwater, heat.Stir panover theheat. overthe shaking thepan shakingthe calls ragofitcalls ofragoût (q.v.\and, thetype typr-of juice add and,ififthe t garni(q.v.) juice; bouque garni ; iddaabouquet the covered,ininthe Cook,covered, sauce.Cook, garlicand tomatosauce. andtomato for lorit,it,crushed crushedgarlic hour. minutes toto1Ihour. heatfor for4545minutes lowheat oven verylow onaavery ovenororon 759 759

RAGUENEAU RAGUENEAU Ragottil ilalamarinière mariniire- -Composed Composed ininprinciple principleofofmussels mussels Ragoût cookedininwhite whitewine wineand andtaken takenout outofofthcir theirshells, shefs,and andshelled shelled cooked shrimps, bouod boundinina (seeSAUCE). Mariniire sauce sauce(see SAUCE). a Marinière Thisragoût ragofrrisisused garnishbraised usedtotogarnish braisedfish fishororasasfilling fillingfor for tarts,tartlets, tartlets,timbales, timbales, vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, etc. etc.ItItcan canbe befinished finishedoff off tarts, withailallkinds kindsofofsbellfisb shellfishcooked cookedininwhite whitewine, wine.with withtheir their with shellsremoved. removed. shells Ragofrt of prepared ofmolll.lscs. molluscs. RAGOÛTS uco0rs DEDECOQUILLAGES coelrrLLAGEs- - Prepared by bindingshellfish (mussels, oysters, shellfish(mussels, oysters,cockles, cockles,clams, clams,etc.) etc.) by cooked ininwhite whitewine wine and andshelled, shelled,ininaawhite whitesauce saucesuitable suitable 10 to cooked thenature natureof ofthe thedish. dish. the Ragott of ofmllsbrooms. mushrooms. RAGOÛT uco0r DE DECHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNs- -Sliced, Sliced. saut6ed mushrooms mushroomsbound withVelouté boundwith Velouti sauce (seeSAUCE) sauce(see SAUCE) mixed with with cream, cream,or or with with brown brown sauce sauce boiled boileddown downwith with mixed Madeira. The The same same uses usesas asabove. above. Madeira. Ragott Nantua Nantua 1I - Shell Shell 40 40 medium-sized medium-sized crayfish crayfish tails, tails, prwiously cookedininmirepoix (q.v.). Put put them them in in aasaut6 pan nr ..·.."rlll~l" cooked sauté pan with I _tablespoon butter. Saut6 for for aa moment moment over giod over aa good taclles,po,on butter. heat. Sprinkle with with 1 tablespoon tablespoon flour, flour, moisten moisten with wiin 1t tablespoon of of brandy brandy and and cover cover with with fresh fresh cream. cream. Mix, Mix, cook cook tablespoon gentle heat over aa genlle heat for for \0 l0 minutes, minutes, stirring stirring often. often. At At the the last last over add 75 g. (3 (3oz" 75 g. o2.,6 p_o_49{ add tablespoons) Crayjish (see Crayfish buller butter (see moment 6 tablespoons) qUJTqR, Compound butlers) butters) made made with with the the scraps scraps and and BUTTER, shells ofcrayfish. shells Ragott Nantua n II -- Cook Cook the the crayfish crayfish tails tails for for aa moment moment in in RagoÎlt butter, moisten moisten with with brandy brandy and and cream cream and and cook cook until until ilit isis butter, reduced 10 to half quantity. half ils its quantity. reduced (+ pint, Add 22 dl. pint, seant dl. H scant cup) cup) crayfish crayfish pur6e prepared with Add the scraps and and shells shells and and Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauci (seeSndCnl. the Clayfish tail tail ragoût rugofrt àd la la Nanwa (see CRAyFISH) is Nantua (see ls used used to fill pastry cases, fill paslry cases, tarts, tarts, tartlets tartlets and and vol-au-venl. vol-au-vent. Il Ii isis also 10 used to garnish egg to garnish egg and and fish fish dishes dishes of of various various kinds. used Sometimes truffies trufres eut cut in in slices slices or orlittle olive-shaped pieces are Sometimes liUle olive-shaped are ad{ed to to the ragofrt. added tbe ragoût. Off{ meats) naco0r D'ABATS D,ABArs -- Ragofrt of Ragoût of - OffaI (variety meats) ragofrt. RAGOÛT this kind, used as as aa garnish for for braised, oi ovenonerrthis kind, braîsed, poached poached or poultry, roast roast poultry, and and also also to to garnish entrdes el1lrées made with with pastry, is îs made made with with white white offal ol1al (variety meats), brains, and lambs-'or or calves' or without the ca Ives' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, sliced or or cut cut in in dice, with withor addition addition of of mushrooms mushrooms and and trufres, truffies, and and bound bound with brown brown or white or wbite sauce. sauce. cutt in large dice Ragoût à la la perigourdine - Mix foie gras cu dice lrgofi! and the and saut6ed sautéed briskly in in butter, butter, with truffies cut eul in in dicJin diee the same samc way way and and cooked very very lightly lightly in in butter. butter. Bind Bind them them with with conc€ntrated juices concentrated cooking cooking juices of of the the fowl fowl or Or game game to to be be garnished, garnisbed, flavoured l:1avoured with with Madeira Madeira or or some sorne otheiwine. other wine. Used Used as as garnish for for oven-ioasted oven-roasted or or braised braised poultry or game, and and also as as accompaniment accompanimenl to to egg egg dishes dishes bf various kinds, pilaf, pilaf, risotto, risotto, various various borders borders of of garnish garnish and entries entrées made with pastry. madewith . Seafoodragofft. nrlcoOr Seafood RAGOÛT DE DE LANcousrE, LANGOUSTE, cRusrAcfs_ CRUSTACÉS - Small Small slices slices of craurfish, lobster, Jobster, prawns or or shrimps, shelled, shelled, bound bound with a Cream sauce witb a Cream sauce or or White wine wine sauce sauce (iee SAUCE) SAUCE) and and finished finisbed with with Shrimp Shrimp (or (or other other crustacean) crustaceall) butter bUller (see (see BUTTER, Shrimp Shrimp butter). bUller). TaJle'vumc:l -- Heat Heat in in aa small small saut6 sauté pan with with aa few few _!ago0t Trlleyrand tablespoons Madeira, 100 cooked 100g.g. (a (4oz.) oz.)cocks'kidneys cocks' cookedin in flour-and-water court-bouillon,and 100g.g. (4(4oz.) HU'Ui- ......J·"' ... 'IV. court-bouillon, and 100 oz.)mushrooms mushrooms also -water alsocooked cookedininflour-and flour-and-wa tercourt-Ooiittin.nind court-bouillon. Bindwitfr withf .1Of . $. pint, 3j- crrp) cup) chicken ehicken VeloutC Velouté sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) miied with cream, cream, strained strained and and with with the the addition of of 22 table_ tablespoons mirepoix mirepoix(q.v.) (q.v.)of ofroot root vegetables vegetablcsand and I1tablespoon tablespoon trufles cut eutininvery verysmall smaUdice. dice. Rago0t Ragoûti illslatortue tortue-- This Thisragortt is the special accompani_ ment ment of ofcalfs calfs head head cooked cooked d la tortue.It tortue. isis comporiC COlll1pOS!~a of quenelles, quenelles,mushrooms, mushrooms,stuffed stuffedolives, sliced slicedtrufres, truffies,lherkins cut cutininsmall smallolive-shaped olive-shapedpieces, pieces,slicbs slicesof oftongue tangueand calf's calf's brain, brain,all ailbound bouod with with Tortue Tortuesauce sauce(ich (richbrown brown sauce saucewith with

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MadeÎra Madeiraadded, added,flavoured flavouredwith withTur/le Turtleherbs, herbs,see seeHERBS) HERBS)and and completed completed with withsmall smallfried friedeggs, eggs,heart-shaped heart-shaped piecesofbread of bread fried friedininbutter butterand andcrayfish crayfishcooked cookedinin ciurt-bouillon(q.v.) (q.v.) these theselast lastIngredients ingredientsadded addedtotothe garnishwhen thegarnish whenit isis being beingset setround roundthe (SeeOFFAL thedish. dish.(See OFFAL ororVARIETY VARIETY MEA TS, CalFs MEATS, Calf 'shead headen enTortue.) Tortue.) Ragoût Rago0tlii lalatoulousaine toulousaine - - Ragofrt used garnishpoultry, usedtotogamish poultry, vol-au-vent vol-au-vent and andother other preparations served servedasaientrées. entries. ComComposedof posed ofchicken chickenforcemeat forcemeat quenelles, quenelles,slices slicesof oflambs' lambs'or or calves' combs and calves'sweetbreads, sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'combs andkidneys, kidneys,mushrooms mushrooms and and trumes, trufres,the thewhole whole bound boundwith (see with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). sAUCE). Ragoût Rago0t of oftrutBes. trufres. RAGOÛT uco0r DE DETRUFFES TRUFFBS - - Under Under trus this name nameisis described described aagarnish garnish of trufles eut oftruffies cutininthick thick slices slicesor orbig bigdice dice and and bound bound with with either eitherRich Rich brown brown sauce sauceftavoured flavoured with with Madeira Madeira or orwith with aaWhite White sauce (see SAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Ragoût Ragott of vegetablec or orRagoût Rago&t ili la printaniire. RAGOÛT la printanière. ucotrr DE oE _ pRTNTANdnB put inin aa well-buttered LÉGUMES rfculms DIT orr A LA LA PRINTANIÈRE - Put well-buttered sauté pan the saut6 pan the following following vegetables: vegetables: 500 (lg oz.) 500 g. (18 oz.) new new carrots, carrots, 12 12 liule little new new onions, onions, 33 medium-sized artichokes artichokes divided divided into quarters (blanched for into quarters for 55 minutes minutes in in water water with with salt lettuces, trimmed, salt and lemon juice), and and lemon and 22lettuces, trimmed, blanched, blanched, divided divided in quarters and pour over in quarters and folded folded over over as as for for braising. braising. Pour over the cover them. the vegetables vegetables either either water just to water or or white white stock stock just toiover them. Season, Season, and and starl start cooking cooking over over aa good good heat. heit. Cook Cook at at boiling boiling point fOf point for 88 minutes minutes with with the pot covcred, the pot covered, lhen then add add t litre litri (scant pinl, (scant pint 2* 2t cups) cups) freshly freshly shelled shelled peas peas and and 12 12 peeled peeled new new potatpes. Cook potatpes. Cook in in the the oven, oven, covered, covered, for for 40 40 to to 45 45 minutes, minutes. Set Set in in aa deep deep disb. dish. Pour Pour the the cookiog cooking liquor, boiled boiled down down and and enriched with butter, over the enriched over vegetables. This ragoût ragofrt can be be made with all kinds of new vegetables: fresh fresh kidney beans, new new broad broad beans, beans, courgettes (iucchini) courgettes (zucctllDl cut cut in in quarters, asparagus tips, either either white white or green, or green, turnips. cucumbers cut into small chunks, French French beans, beans, new new tuinips. The ragofrts ragoûts sbould be cooked cooked in in earthenware or should be earthenware casseroles casserolesbr fireproof porcelain or bi-metal pots, pots, and served in in the the pOl. in fueproof and served pot.

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RAGUENEAU -- Parisian Parisian pastry-cook .... ,,
RISSOLE RISSOLE The Thewordgimblette word gimblellecomes cornesfrom from the lheItalian Italian cianbetta cianbellawhich which

strawberries. strawberries. Pur6e Purée of of peaches peaches also also goes goes very very well weIl with with rigodon. rigodon. Rigodon Rigodon with witb meat. roellt. RIc'oDoN RIGODON AvEc AVEC vIANDB VIANDE -- 'Put 'Put into Înto aa basin tablespoons of offlour flour (or (or rice riceflour). flour). Add Add 77eggs. eggs. basin 22 good tablespoons Mix Pour in, in, stirring stirring well, weil, I1litre litre (l| (l~ pints, pints, generous generous Mix well. Pour quart) lightly salted. quart)boiled boiled milk, milk,lightly salted. Add Add 200 200 g.g. (7 (7 oz, oz., scant seant cup) cup) cold cold boiled boiled pork pork cut eut in in very very small small dice dice (or (or an an equivalent quantity streaky bacon). ofslreaky bacon). Pour Pourthe the mixture mixture into into a deep dish, quantity of well ofbutter butter here here and and there there on on the the weil buttered. buttered. Put Put small small pieces pieces of surface. is eaten eaten surface. Cook Cook in in a a moderate moderate oven. oven. This This flan flan is lukewarm orcold.' (Phîleas Gilbert's Gilbert's recipe.) recipe.) lukewarm or cold.' (Phil6as

means gimblettesshould should meansscalded. scalded.This Thisetymology etymologyimplies impliesthat thatgimblettes be bescalded scaldedbefore beforethey theyare areput putinin the theoven. oven, The centuries old old-- are are Thebest bestknown known-- and andtheir theirreputation reputation isiscenturies

those ofAlbi. Albi. those of

Orange ring-biscuits (Car6me's (Carême-'s recipe). recipe).

A cIMBLETTES G1MBLETIES À

'Grate half half an an orange orange rind rind on on aa lump lump of of sugar; sugar; crush fine powder powder and and mix mÎx itit with with more more fine fine crush the the sugar sugar to to aa fine sugar so 50 that lhat the the whole whole amount amount measures measures 175 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz.,l oz., :f cup). Pound Pound thoroughly thoroughly 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., scant seant cup) fresh fresh 2 almonds. 225 g.g. (8 oz., oZ.,2 almonds. Place Place in in aa circle, circle, round round this this mixture mixture,,225 cups) cake flour. fiOUL Put Put in in the the centre centre I1 teaspoon teaspoon yeast yeast cups) sifted sifted cake dislolved ofaa tumbler tumblcr of ofmilk. milk. Add Add 50 50 g. (2 (2 o2.,f, oz.,! dissolved in in aa quarter of cup) cup) butter, butter, 2 egg yolks, yolks, aa pinch of ofsalt, salt. the the almonds and and the the in the ingredients these orange-flavoured anl!e-naVOlllre:d sugar. sugar. Knead all ail these usual way and leave leave the the dough dough in in aa warm warm place for 5 to 6 way and hours (0 ferment. ferment. hours to to allow allow the the yeast yeast to 'Now 'Now break break the the dough dough and and roll roll itit into inlo strips, strips, each each the the width width of of aa little liule finger. fingeL When When there there are arc 55 or or 66 strips slrips made, made, cut eut them them length. Make diagonally iOlO pieces each eacb l3 13 cm. cm. (5 (5 inches) inches) in illlength. Make diagonally into these these into ioto little little rings so so that that the the joins joins are are invisible. invisible. 'Having prepared the in this this way, way. drop drop the the rings rings into into the dough dough in gently it a large saucepan saUIl:eIJan of of boiling boili ng water. water. Stir Stir it gent! y with with aa spatula spat ula to (0 prevent prevent the rings rings from from sticking sticking and and to to bring bring them them to to the the surface. drop them them into into cool cao! water. w8ter. surface. Drain Drain them them and and drop 'When 'When they are are cold, cold, drain drain them them in in aa large sieve. sieve. Now Now toss toss them them to to dry dry them. Dip Dip each each one one in in aa little Jjule beaten egg egg (2 (2 eggs eggs or three should be used used in in all) ail) two two or three times. times. should be 'Leave 'Leave them them to to drain drain for for aa few few minutes. minutes. 'Arrange 'Arrange them them carefully carefully on on three three lightly lightly greased greased bakingbakingslow oyen oven until sheets and bake in a a slow until they they are are a a good good sheets and bake them them in colour. colom. 'In the same way, 'In the same way, itit is is possible possible to to make make little Hule plaited plaited biscuits biscuits as a as long about as or or little llule rolls rails about long as a thumb. thumb. rind of of with the flavoured with 'These ring-biscuits also flavoured be also the rind 'These ring-biscuits may may be or orange, or or with or Sevi Seville lemon, lemon, citron citron or Ile orange, with aniseed, aniseed, vanilla vanilla or water.' orange-flower water.' orange-ftower (See RICE.) RICE.) basis. (See with aa riec rice basis. Dishes RISOTTO RISOTTO - Dishes with

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L'oRANGE L'ORANGE -

RIGOTTE RIGOTTE DE DE CONDRIEU CONDRIEU -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. RILLAUDS RILLAUDS AI\D AND RILLETTFSRILLETTES - Preparation Preparation of ofpork, park, both bath lean Jean and and fat, fat, cut cut into into very small small pieces pieces and and gently gently cooked cooked in in lard Rillelles are are then then pounded pounded in in aa lard with with the the usual usual seasoning. Rillettes mortar. Rillauds or or rillons rillons are are not. noL mortar. Rillauds Rillettes are Rillelles are made made industrially industrially almost almost everywhere everywhere in in France. France. Tours Tours and and Le Le Mans Mans rillettes ril/elles are are highly rughly esteemed. esleemed. Goose rillettes are are made made in in the tbe same same way way as as pork pork Goose and and rabbit rabbit rillettes rillelles. rillettes. Cut2l Cut 21 kg. (5* (5-!- lb.) lb,) fresh fresh belly belly of of pork park into into large dice. Heat Heat 25 g. Q (1 oz., oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) lard lard in in aa pan, pan, add add diced pork, park, and and cook lightly. Add t-î cup of of water. waler. Cook gently till ti!! tender, tender, stirring frequently ",",''-1'''_''''1 to to make make sure that that the the meat meat does not not stick 10 the bottom. When the to the pieces picces of of pork pork are cooked cooked and browned. browned, drain them. therillettes Chop or pound the ril/elles finely, put them them in În a basin, basin, and cooking. Season with salt and add to 10 them the fat from the cooking. pepper pepper and mix. Put Put the the rillettes rillelles into small stone jars and and allow to ta cool. Cover with of lard. Cover When pour over over a thin layer of When they tbey are are cold pour paper. white paper. of fresh belly D'ANJou -- Cut fresh Rillauds of Anjou. RILLAUDS RILLAUDS D'ANJOU belly of Season with pork cm. (2|inches) park into pieces pieces about 6 cm. inches) square. Season (* oz., g. salt or., per lb.), 25 g. salt per kg. <jcoarse rock salt, allowing 25 and leave lcave for 12 hours. so;ne which sO,me in aa saucepan in whieh rillauds in The next day put the fI'llauds Tbe has been heated. lard (one third of the weight of the pork) has good heal, add aa pan over good heat, add the pan hours. Put the Cook gently for 2 hours. moments. little caramel caramel and and cook for a few moments. liule serve piping hot. and serve the rillouds rillauds and Drain the Melt gently 11 kg. RILLBTTES D'ANGERs -- Meh Rillettes of Angers. RILLETTES golden is golden (2+ lb.) pork When it is pork fat very small small pieces. When fat eut cut into very (2~ cut pork, both both fat fat and lean, cut fresh pork, in col colour kg. (8? lb.) fresh in our add 44 kg. gently for 55 (4 oz.) g. (4 salt. Cook Cook gently oz.) coarse rock salt. into dice, dice, and J100 inlO (){) g. to crush crush pieces with wooden spoon to with aa wooden hours. Beat Beat the the pieces to 66 hours. to to become become cold. them a little. Put into pots. Allow to themalillle.Putinlopots.Allow Like the the Rille Rillettes MANS -- Like RILLETTEs DU DU MANS Rillettes of Le MaIlS. Mans. RILU'TTES of Le 1tes Rillettes pork. goose and pieces of and park. of gàose of mixed mixed pieces of Angers, made made of of as DE TOURS TouRs -- Prepared as RTLLETTEs DE Rillettes of Tours. RlLLETTES of Tours. RiUettes (U'S. fresh collar (U recipe using using fresh described in in the the introductory recipe described .S. with salt, salt, pork, both fat and lean. Season Season with and lean. shoulder but!) butt) of of park, shoulder pots. Cover with aa Cover with in poIS. Put in finely. Put pepper and Pound finely. and spîces. spices. Pound pepper layer layer or lard. of lard. pork as as of park breast of of breast Cook pieces of rillots -- Cook Rillong rillauds, rillauds, rillots Rillons, part of for ril/el/es. rillettes. ofthe first part indicated in in the the first the recipe for indicated drain them them browned, drain pieces are and well browned, cooked and are cooked the pieces When the When pepper, and hot or or serve hot and serve and pepper, with salt salt and season with inin aastrainer, strainer, season cold. cold.

though kinds of pastry, though different kinds with different Dish made made wîth RISSOLE- Dish IUSSOLEforcemeat, of lorcernealt. various sorts sorts of pastry, filled with various filled with usually of puff pastry, usuallyof fat. in deep deep fat. fried in turnover and and fried shape of of aa turnover the shape often made made in the often small like small in the the oyen oven Iike cooked in also be be cooked may also This dish, dish, which which may This small entrée. entrie' or aa small hors-d'cuvre or hot hors-d'œuvre as aa hOl patties, îs is served served as garnish for for large large as garnish be used used as can be small size size can Rissoles of of very very smaIJ poultry. pieces ofmeat or poultry. of meat or pieces in known in were known roinsolles, were called roinsolles, to be be called which used used ta Rissoles, which Rissoles, kind simply aa kind were simply they were In those those days they century. ln the thirteentb thirteenth century. lhe be to be they came came to Later they or dripping. Laler in butter butter or of pancake fried fried io of meat. filled with with chopped chopped meat. (Cies of Paris) called called of Paris) de Paris Paris (Cries of the the Cris Cris de The author author of The (dice food) in the the evenings evenings food) because because in 'denries aux dtis' (dice rissoles 'denrées aux dès' rissoles people subject other people and other students and workmen, students after supper supper the the workmen, after than these nothing more more than hazard nothing rules could could hazard to very very strict strict rules to games ofehance. pastries in of chance. in their their games pastries into inpastry, made made according according to the pastry, Roll out out the Method. Roll Method. (i inch). inch). cm. (.} thickness of of tI cm. structions, ta to aa thîckness structions, pastry-cutter. with aa pastry-cutler. required with number or of pieces required the number Cut out out the Cut turnover, itit isis form of of aa IUrnover, in Ihe the forrn for rissoles rissoles made in Except for Except pastry for rissole. pieces of for each each rissole. of pastry out two two pieces necessary to to eut cut OUi necessary as walnut, as size of of aa walnul, the size forcemeat the of forcemeat Fill these with aa piece of these with Fil) indicated in in the the recipe. Îndicated piece of of second piece with aasecond water. Cover Cover with with water. edges with Moisten the the edges Moisten Press the the edges edges turnover. Press form of ofa pastry or in the the form fold avec over in or fold pastry a turnover. and drain, and last moment, moment, draÎn, Fry atat the the last together to them. Fry to seal seal them. together fried parsley. serve. Garnîsh with fried Garnish with serve. horsHot horsFor differenl different recipes see HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI For d'euvre. d'œuvre.

The and fruitfruit. The stalks and some stalks RIND. ÉCORCE fconcn - - Tbe The outer outer skin skin of of sorne RIND. great in aa great used in are used lemon and and orange orange are rinds of of cinna cinnamon, mon, lemon rinlis in cooking. cooking. many different different ways ways in many

BORDER. RING RING -- See SeeBORDER. given 10 types various lypes to various Name gÎven RING-BISCUIT. GIMBLETTE cnrasrntrr - - Name RING-BISCUIT. ring. theform formof ofaaring. ofsmalt smallbiscuit biscuit made made ininthe of 777 777

RIVESALTES (MUSCAT DE) RIVESALTES (MUSCAT DE) RMSALTES (MUSCAT DE) - Very strong liqueur wine RIVESALTES (MUSCAT DE) - Very strong liqueur wine ^ harvested at Rivesaltes, pvr6n6essmalltown townininthe Ihe pyrénéesharvested at Rivesaltes, a asmall Orientales. This wine is highly flavoured. Orientales. This wine is highly ftavoured. ROACH. cARDoN - Common name of a freshwater fish of ROACH. GARDON - Common name of a freshwater fish of the carp family, something between the carp and the bream. the carp family, something between the carp and the bream . In U.S.A. it is called golden shiner minnow. Its fins are red. its In U .S.A. it is ca lied golden shiner minnow. Its fins are red, its white flesh quite delicate, but it has so many forked bones white fiesh quite delicate, but it has so many forked bones that it is difficult eat. Roach is most commonlv eaten fried. that it is difficult totoeat. Roach is most commonly eaten fried .

Nostradamus,a agreat greatsixteenth-century sixteenth-centurygastronome gastronomeand Nostradamus, and literaryfigure (1503-66)wrote figure(1503-66) wrotethat thatthis thisbird biidoriginated originatedinin Iiterary Greeceand andthat thatititwas wasKing KingRené Ren6ofofAnjou Anjouwho whobrought Greece broughtit it Provence.The Theseventeenth-century seventeenth-centurypoet, poet,Cyrano totoProvence. Cyranodede Bergerac,said saidthat that'Bartavelles 'Bartavellesare partiidgesasascardin aretotopartridges ais Bergerac, cardinals greyfriars aretotogrey friars. . ..' .' are .thebartavelles GrimoddedelalaReynière Reynidreconsidered consideredthat that'the Grimod bartavelles deservesuch profoundrespect suchprofound respectthat peopleshould thatpeople deserve shouldgogodown downonon theirknees kneestotoeat eatthem" them !' their Allthe therecipes recipesgiven givenfor partridge(q.v.) forpartridge (q.v.)can Ali canbebeapplied appliedtoto rockpartridge. partridge. rock ROCKET (Cress). (Cress).ROQUETTE Roer.rErrE- - Strong-srnelling Strong-smelling plant plantwith ROCKET with sharpand piquantftavour. andpiquant flavour.ItsItsleaves leavesare sharp aresmooth smoothand and glabrous, the theftowers flowerswhite paleyellow whiteororpale yellowand growswild g1abrous, andititgrows wildinin thefields. fields.ItItisisused usedasasseasoning seasoningininsalads. salads. the

ROESeeSOFT SOFTROES. ROES. ROE - See ROEBUCK. CHEVREUIL cnEVREUTL - -Wild WildEuropean ROEBUCK. Europeanand andAsiatic Asiaticdeer. deer. The young youngof ofboth bothsexes sexesisiscalled called afawn The until 1818months afawnuntil monthsold, old, pricket or yearling up oryearling yearsold, uptoto22years pricket old,then tbenbrocket. brocket.One Onecan can establish the theage ageof ofthe the animal animal ininthe establish themale male by bythe thenumber numberof of tines on onthe theantlers, antlers, and and ininthe thefemale female by tines bythe theburrs. burrs.The Themeat meat ofroebuck and other otherdeer deer isisalso of roebuck and alsocalled called venison. venison. The meat meat of young roebuck of the the young roebuck or The or roedeer roedeer isisdelicate, delicate. especially ifif itit has has not not been been marinated; especially marinated; that thatof of the the old old brockets, which which isistougher, tougher, does brockets, does need need marinating, marinating, but butnot not for for long. long. The ftesh flesh of of the the roebuck roebuck is, The is, like like practically practically all game,rather all game, rather indigestible because because of poisons that of the the poisons indigestible that accumulate, accumulate, due due to to the excessive excessive muscular muscular activity the activity of the animal of the pursued. animal when when pursued.

Roach

Roach

ROAST. nOr, n6n - The French word rdr is the most general ROAST. RÔT, RÔTI- The French word rôt is the most general term and the most noble, according to M. de Courchamps term and the most noble, according to M. de Courchamps (author of a cookery book) to describe not only roasted me-at (author of a cookery book) to describe not only roasted meat but also the course which follows the entrie. The roast can be but also the course which follows the entrée. The roast can be a piece of meat (though this was always the entrie in the a piece of meat (though this was always the entrée in the grande cuisine of past days), poultry or game, or, in France, grande cuisine of pa st days), poultry or game, or, in France, even fried fish or a Lenten fishpdtd. Roasts are always served even fried fish or a Lenten fish pâté. Roasts are always served on oval dishes. on oval dishes. The word rdli describes the actual piece of meat, poultry or The word rôti describes the actual piece of meat, poultry or game, cooked on the spit or in the oven and served hot. game, cooked on the spit or in the oyen and served hot. ROASTING. RÔTISSAGE n6rrssacn -- Method Method of of cooking cooking foodstuffs foodstuffs ROASTING. which must must be be done done according according to to certain certain principles. principles. (See (See which CULTNARY METHODS.) CULINARY METHODS.) ROASTING PAI\. PLAQUE rr,lque ÀA RÔTIR n6nn -- Kitchen Kitchen utensil utensil which which ROASTING PAN. must with thedripping the dripping pan pan used placing for placing used for must not not be be confused confused with joints under on the the spit. spit. under joints roasting roasting on The (or sorne some other other fairly fairly The roasting roasting pan pan is is aa tinned-copper tinned-copper (or tough grid on cuts ofrneats of meati on which which cuts tough metal) metal) pan, pan, provided provided with with aa grid to to be be roasted roasted in in the the oven oyen are are placed. placed. It It is is important important that that the roastingjoints roastingjoints should should not not lie lie in in the the fat fat or or the the gravy. gravy. In In some sorne restaurants, restaurants, which which take take pride pride in in their their work, work, roasting pans have have special special devices devices which which permit pennit the joint joint roasting pans intended for roasting put intended for roasting to to be be put on on aa spit. spit. ROB ROB -- Fruit Fruit juice juice thickened thickened by by evaporation evaporation to to the the consistency sistency ofhoney. of honey. ROBERT ROBERT (Sauce) (Sauce) -- This This sauce, sauce, an an accompaniment accompanirnent to to pork pork chops onions and and mustard, mustard, ijsaid is said chops and and seasoned seasoned with with vinegar, vinegar, onions to Robert Vinot, Vinot, who, who, to have have been been invented invented by by aa certain certain Robert according on aa print print which which bears bears his his portrait, portrait, according to to the the legend legend on was was aa celebrated celebrated sauce-maker sauce-maker at at the the beginning beginning of of the the seventeenth For the the recipe, recipe, see see SAUCE. SAUCE. seventeenth century. century. For ROBIN. ROBIN.RoucE-c,oRGEROUGE-GORGE - Small Small passerine, passerine, sometimes sometimes eatenen eaten en brochettes brochettes (on (on skewers). skewers). Prepared Prepared in in the the same same way way as as larks. larks . The the size halfthe size of ofthe the American American robin. robin. TheEuropean European robin robin isishalf ROBLOT ROBLOT -- French French name name given given in in certain certain regions regions to to small small mackerel. mackerel.

Roebuck and and hounds; hounds; painting painting by by Oudry Oudry Roebuck

Civet of of roebuck roebuck (venison). (veoison). crvrr CIVET DE DE cr{EvREUrr CHEVREUIL - The parts Civet - The parts of the the roebuck roebuck used used for for this this stew, stew, which which is is made made in in the the iame sa me of way as as Civet Civet of ofhare hare (see (see HARE) HARE) are are the the shoulders, shoulders, the the neck, neck, way upper part part ofthe of the loin. loin. the breast breast and and the the upper the one can can seldom seldom obtain obtain the the blood blood of of the the roebuck, roebuck, itit isis As one As replaced for for the the final final liaison liaison of ofthe the sauce sauce with with hare's hare's blood. blood, or or replaced that of ofrabbit. rab bit. that or cuflets. cutlets. cdrrrnrrns CÔTELETTES DE DE Roebuck (venison) (veoison) chops cbops or Roebuck CHEVREUIL -- These These chops chops or or cutlets cutlets are are taken ta ken from from the the loin. loin. cIrEvR-EUrL Trimand and beat beatthem themlightly. lightly. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and Trim sautéininvery veryhot hotoil oilas asquickly quicklyas aspossible possibleinin orderiofeep order to keepthe the saut6 centreofofeach eachcutlet cutletslightly slightlypink. pink. centre Arrange them them in in the the form form of of aa crown. crown, alternatine alternating with with Arrange croûtonsofbread of bread cut cut into into heart heart shapes shapes and and fried fried in in Sutter. butter. crottons

ROCHER ROCHER DE DE CANCALE CANCALE -- See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE DAYS. BYGONEDAYS.

ROCK red-legged ROCKPARTRIDGE. PARTRIDGE.uRravnrm BARTAVELLE-- AAvariety varietyofofred-Iegged partridge, butbigger biggerthan thanthe thelatter. latter.ItItisisknown knownasasthe theGieek Greek partridge,but partridge. partridge.The Thefemale fernaleisissmaller smallerthan thanthe themale maleand andhas haslighter lighter coloured is very very common cornmon inin coloured plumage. plumage. This This partridge partridge is southern southernEurope Europeand andininthe theAlps, Alps,from fromwhich whichititcomes cornesdown down ininthe thewinter. winter.Its Itsflesh fteshisisvery verygood. good. 778 778

ROEBUCK ROEBUCK Roebuck Roebuck (venison) (venison) chope chops or or cutlets cutlets Aà la la minute. minute. cOTELETTES CÔTELETTES DE DE crrEvREUIr CHEVREUIL a À rl LA MINUTE MINUTE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chops chops or or cutlets cutlets are they quickly or butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle them them while while they are cooking cooking quickly in in oil oil or

Dress IDress them them with with the the sauce sauce indicated indicated by by the the particular particular recipe recipe (see (seebelow) below) and and garnish garnish accordingly. accordingly.

1 The The meaty meaty part part of of the the cutlet cutlet can can be be larded larded with with fine fine orstrips strips ofsalt of salt pork pork inserted inserted in in the the form fonn ofa of a star' star. If If lardoons Ilardoons or the chops chops or orcutlets cutlets are are taken ta ken from from an an old old animal animal they they can can be be the marinated beforehand. beforehand. marinated Roebuck (venison) (veoison) chops chops or or cutlets cutlets with with chestnuts. chestnuts. I Roebuck [CÔTELETTES DE cITEvREUIL CHEVREUIL AUx AUX MARRoNs MARRONS -- Cook Cook the the chops chops or cOTELETTES DE !cutlets in the the same same way way as as for for Roebuck Roebuck (venison) chops or cutlets in cutlets poivrade poivrade (see (see below). below). Arrange Arrange them them in in the the form form of of aa cutlets crown, alternating alternating with with crottons croûtons fried fried in in butter' butter. Fill FiJI the crown, Icentre the dish dish with with braised braised chestnuts. chestnuts. Pour Pour over over a centre of the [Poivrade sauce (seeSAUCE). (see SAUCE). Fix Fix aa paper paper frill friII on on each each cutlet. Poivrade sauce

with, with, for for 66 cutlets, cutlets, I1 large large tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped onion. onion. with Drain Drain the the cutlets, cutIets, arrange arrange them them in in the the form form of of aa crown crown with to the pan, fried Pour over over them them the the juices juices from from the pan, to fried cro0tons. croûtons. Pour Cognac have which which 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Cognac have been been sauce cup) Poivrade dl. $ added, added, togethei together with with l{ li dl. (i pint, pint, 3 ~ cup) Poivrade sauce Season stock. Season (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Alternatively, Alternatively, use use aa rich rich brown brown stock. g. (3 75 g. heat, 75 juice and from the add, away with lemonjuice and add, away from the heat, (3 with aa little little lemon with dish with the dish of the the centre centre of Garnish the oz., oz., 66 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Garnish in butter. sautEed in sliced mushrooms sautéed butter. sliced mushrooms DE poiwade. CÔTELETTES cOTELErrEs DE (venison) chops cutlets poivrade. or cutlets chops or Roebuik Roebuck (veoison) poIvRADE or in oil oil or or cutIets cutlets in chops or the chops Saut6 the cITEvREUIL CHEVREUIL POIVRADE -- Sauté juices in pan and and in the the pan to the the juices wine vinegar vinegar to little wine butter. butter. Add Add aa !ittle in the the (see SAUCE). the cutlets cutlets in Arrange the SAUCE). Arrange sauce (see some Poivrade Poivrade sauce sorne Attach crottons. Attach fried croûtons. with fried them with alternating them crown aIternating form of aa crown form bone. paper frill cutlet bone. frill to each each cutlet aa paper cOTELETTES la romaine. romaine. CÔTELETTES (venison) chops cutlets ài la or cutlets chops or Roebuck (veoison) in oil. oil. cutlets or cu chops or the chops Saut6 nou,uNr -- Sa i LA rlr ROMAINE DE CHEVREUIL cHEvRBuIr À DE u té the tlets in with alternating with crown, alternating of aa crown, form of in the the form Arrange them them in Arrange (see sauce (see Romaine sauce with Romaine them with Cover them in butter. Cover fried in crottons fried croûtons juices in pan, which have which have in the the pan, the juices with the combined with SAUCE) combined SAUCE) wine. white wine. little white with aa little de-glazed with been de-glazed (see CHESTNUTS). purCe (see CHESTNUTS). with Chestnut Chestnut purée Serve with DE cOTELETTES DE d'Uzis. CÔTELETTES cutlets d'Uzès. (venison) chops or cuUets chope or Roebuck (veoison) Roebuck quickly in in oil. oil. cutlets quickly or cutlets chops or the chops Saut6 the o'uzts -- Sauté cITEvRBUTL D'UZÈS CHEVREUIL heartwith heartalternating with crown, alternating of aa crown, form of in the the form them in Arrange them Arrange with dish with of the the dish centre of Fill the the centre in butter. butter. FiJI fried in shaped croûtons crofitons fried shaped with cutlets with the cutlets Cover the (see POT POTATOES). potatoes (see Daiphine potatoes Dauphine ATOES). Cover the of the bottom of the bottom scrape the way: scrape following way: in the the following sauce made made in aa sauce which 44 to which and to cooked and have been been cooked pan in cutlets have the cutlets in which which the pan added. been added. have been vinegar have wine vinegar (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) wine iablespoons (5 tablespoons brown rich brown generous cup) cup) rich (scant iI pint, pint, generous dl. (scant 2| dl. with 2i Moisten with Moisten add down; add Boil down; cream.Boil lf cups) cups) cream. dl. (~pint, and 33 dl. veal stock stock and veal $ pint, li pass through sievethrough aasieve. and pass heat, and from the the heat, away from butter, away butter, has been been which has rind which orange rind tablespoon orange sauce add add 1I tablespoon To this this sauce To tablespoons(3(3 and drained, drained, 22 tablespoons blanched and strips, blanched into tiny tiny strips, cut into cut bydipping dippinginin peeledby have been been peeled which have alnonds which tablespoons) almonds tablespoons) tablespoons (3(3 and 22 tablespoons oven, and the oven, dried inin the and dried hot water water and hot orange littleorange Add aalittle into strips. strips.Add gherkins, cut cut into tablespoons) gherkins, tablespoons) pepp€r. ground pepper. juice, and freshlyground withfreshly and season season with juice, DE MIGNoNSDE FILETS MIGNONS mignons. FILETS filets mignons. venison filets or veoison Roebuck or Roebuck the denotesthe 'filetsmignons' mignons' denotes principle term'filets theterm Inprincip cIrEvREtrIL - - In CHEVREUIL le the the onthe thebone boneon under the foundunder which isisfound ofmeat meatwhich thin tongue of th in tongue of filletsof thebig bigfiIIets fromthe becut cutfrom also be canalso Thesecan animal's sadd saddle. animal's le. These the the saddle. saddle. larded arelarded thefillets beaten,the lightly beaten, andlightly fiUets are After trimmed and beingtrimmed After being butter porkand andsautéed saut6edininbutter saltpork ofsalt orstrips stripsof lardoonsor with with thin thinlardoons (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce(see Poivradesauce with Poivrade grilled,and servedwith andserved or oroil, oil,or orgriIIed, pur6eofchestnuts. and andaapurée ofchestnuts. forRoebuck Roebuck preparedasasfor beprepared alsobe canalso filletscan The The Ettle littleflUets

Roebuck cullets chestnuts with chestnuts cutlets with

pe Roebuck cdrernrrEs DE Conti. CÔTELETTES cuflets Conti. or cuUets chops or Roebuck (venison) chops same in the the same cutlets in or cutlets chops or the chops - Prepare the (see poivrade (see way as (venison) chops cutlets poivrade or cutlets chops or as for for Roebuck Roebuck (venison) below). centre Fill the the centre crown. FiII of aa crown. the form form of them in the below). Arrange them 1 of the dish with a Lentil purée PURÉE). Cover cutlets the cutlets (seePUREE). Cover the of the dish w ith a I'entil purie (see with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Poivrade sauce sauce (see with Poivrade Roebuck os c6rel,nrrEs DE (venison) chops la crème. crdme. CÔTELETTES cutlets ài la chops or or cuUets Roebuck (venison) CHEVREUIL salt with salt or cutlets cutlets with chops or the chops Season the A LA ll CRÈME cntun -- Season cITEVREUIL À 1 and them. Drain them. quickly in butter. Drain in butter. paprika. Sauté them quickly and paprika. Saut6 them Arrange fried croûtons. crottons. with fried crown with form of of aa crown them in in the the form Arrange them Pour way: prepared in the foIIowing following way: in the sauce prepared cream sauce Pour over over them them aa cream for Madeira cup) Madeira (6 tablespoons, scant iI cup) tablespoons, scant pour 11 dl. dl. (6 for 66 cutlets cutlets pour into the Scrape the sauteed. Scrape been sautéed. have been cutlets have pan in the cutlets in which which the into the the pan pan juices of and then then wine, and the wine, with the meat with of the the meat pan to blend the the juices to blend boil cups) thick Boil cream. Boil fresh cream. pint, li thick fresh llcups) dl. (i down. Add Add 33 dl. boil down. $ pint, for juice, strain through aa strain through little lemon lemon juice, Add aa !ittle for aa few few minutes. minutes. Add sieve. (see CHESTNUTS). purie (see CHESTNUTS). with Chestnut Chestnut purée Servewith sieve. Serve Roebuck grapes. CÔTELETTES cOrELErrEs with grapes. or cuUets cutlets witb (venison) chops chopo or Roebuck (venison) DE very invery cutlets in orcutlets chops or the chops Saut6 the RAIstNs - Sauté AUx RAISINSDE CHEVREUIL cI{EvREUIL AUX hot with alternating with crown, alternating ofaacrown, form of in the theform Arrange them them in hot oil. oil. Arrange fried been havebeen cutlets have thecutlets panin inwhich whichthe thepan into the Put into fried croûtons. cro0tons. Put cooked been have been grapeswhich which have andseeded seeded grapes some skinned skinned and cooked sorne soaked per grapesper tengrapes allowing ten beforehand,allowing Cognac beforehand, in aalittle little Cognac soaked in cutlet. (seeSAUCE), too nottoo SAUCE), not sauce(see Poivradesauce with Poivrade Moisten with cutlet. Moisten strong, the sauceover overthe thissauce Pourthis stock. Pour brown stock. with rich rich brown strong, or or with cutlets. cutlets. Roebuck berries. withjuniper (venison)chops cutletswith chopsor orcutlets Roebuck (venison) iuniper berries. CÔTELETTES or chops or thechops Saut6the lu GENIÈVRE crNrtvnr- -Sauté DECHEVREUIL cHEVREuITAU c0rslrrrEs DE cutlets crown, formofofaacrown, theform them ininthe Arrange them butter. Arrange cutlets ininoil oilor orbutter. aIternating over Pourover butter. Pour friedininbutter. cro0tonsfried with croûtons themwith alternatingthem them of tablespoons of pan,totowhich which22tablespoons thepan, released ininthe the juices released them thejuices gin pint'scant cup) scantcup) dl.(1(lpint, with22dl. Moistenwith ginhave added.Moisten have been beenadded. fresh Poivrade cup)Poivrade scantt *cup) tablespoons,scant dl.(6(6tablespoons, ireshcream creamand· and1Idl. sauce juniperberries berries(1(l crushedjuniper fewcrushed (seeSAUCE), addingaafew SAUCE),adding sauce(see or few fora afew Boilfor of lemon juice.Boil dropsofiemonjuice. somedrops percutlet), cutlet),and andsorne or22per ! moments; sieve. moments;sieve. Serve swpetened. slightlysw~etened. veryslightly onlyvery pur6eof applesonly ofapples withaapurée Servewith CHEVREUIL cHEvREIJIL CONTI coNTI -

1

1

(venison)chops cutlets. chopsor orcutlets. (venison) Prepared cI{EvREtnr - -Prepared (venison)hash. nlcns DEDECHEVREUIL hash.HACHIS Roebuck Roebuck (veoison) ground ofground (seeHASH, Hashof HASH,Hash venison(see with roebuck ororvenison withcold coldroebuck gamestock. stock. browngame thickbrown withaathick game\.The moistened with game). Thehash hashisismoistened DECHEVREUIL cI{EVREUIL (venison).CUISSOT, GIGLIEDE cu$sor,GIGUE Haunch roebuck(veoison). Haunch ofofroebuck coversit.it. whichcovers skinwhich thinskin thethin removingthe - -Trim haunch,removing Trimthe thehaunch, stripsofof lardingbacon baconororththin Lard in strips stripsofoflarding narrowstrips Lardititwith withnarrow (See spit.(See thespit. ovenororononthe theoven salt pork.Roast Roastitit ininthe saltpork. roasts.) timesforroasts.) cookingtimesfor Averagecooking CULINARY METHODS,Average CULINARYMETHODS, sauce othersauce anyother sauceorotany Serve Poivradesauce separatelya aPoivrade Serveseparately pur6eand and (seeSAUCE), chestnutpurée game(see SAUCE),chestnut appropriate furredgame appropriatetotofurred jelly. gooseberry gooseberryjeIly. cHEvRilnL- NoIsErrEsDEDECHEVREUIL (venison)noisettes. Roebuck noisettes.NOISETTES Roebuck(venison) taken alsobebetaken butcan canalso loin,but theloin, These fromthe takenfrom aretaken littlecuts cutsare These!ittle fillets. saddlefiUets. thesaddle fromthe the haunch from haunchororfrom endofofthe theupper upperend fromthe shape. ovalshape. roundororoval They thick,inina around ratherthick, cutrather Theyshould shouldbebecut

779 779

ROGNONNADE ROGNONNADE They are cooked in the same way as for Roebuck (venison) They are cooked in the same chops or cutlets, and are accompanied by all the sauces and chops or cwlets, and are a........ u,,'!-'~"U'A1 garnishes indicated for these. garnishes indicated for thesc. Roebuck (venison) pie. rArf DE crrEVREr.Jn - prepared with Roebuck (veoison) pie. PÂTÉ DE CHEVREUlL - Prepared with strips of roebuck or venison and game forcemeat in the same strips of roebuck or veoison and game forcemeat În the same way as Rabbit pie (see PIE). as (sec PIE). Saddleof roebuck (venison). srrrr ou crnvpcurr- The word (yenison). S~LLE DE CHEVREUlL- The word 'saddle'applies only to that part of the animal which is found 'sadd le' applies only to that pan of the animal whîch is found between the loin and the haunch. However, one can leave the between the loin and the haunch. However, one can leave the two loins adhering to the joint, cutting the ribs very short. (Wo loins adheriug to the joint, cutting tbe ribs very short. Remove the sinewy parts of the meat and lard it with strips Remove the sinewy of the meat and lard it with of larding bacon or salt pork. Roast it in the oven or on the of Jarding bacon or pork. Roast it in the oven or on spit (see CULINARY METHODS, Average cooking times spÎt (sec CULINARY METHODS, Average cookillg limes

ROMAINE ororCOS LETTUCE - -Variety COS LETTUCE Variety ofJeuuce of lettucewith withfirm firm ROMAINE leaves, mostly mostlyeaten eaten ininsalad. salad.Legend Legendsays says that thatititwas wasRabelais Rabelais leaves, who imported imported this this variety variety into into France. France. IlIt isiscalled calledCos Cos inin who England. England. ROMALOUR -- See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE. ROMALOUR ROMANEE - - AA great great wil1e wine from from the the commune commune of of VosneVosneROMANÉE Romanee.There There are are three three distinct distinct types, types, the theRomanée, Roman6e, the the Romanée. Romanee-Conti and and the the Romanée-Saint-Vivant. (See Roman6e-Saint-Vivant. (Sec Romanée-Conti BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.) ROMANOV -- See See GARNISHES. GARNISHES. ROMANOV ROOK. FREUX FREUX -- A A kind kind of of crow, crow, which which isis sometimes sometimes eaten eaten ROOK. after itit has has been been skinned. skinned. after pArE pie. PÂTÉ DE Rook pie. oe CORBEAU coRBEAU -- Rook pie, in Rook pie, in spite of of whatthe what the Rook sceptics and and the the incredulous incredulous may may think, think, îsis aa dish which, which, ifif sceptics properly prepared, prepared, isis not not to to be be despised. It isis only prepared despised. It only prepared properly with fledglings fledglings straigbt straight from from the the nest. 'There are nest. 'There are certain certain rules rules with which ilit isis absolutely absolutely necessary necessary to to follow follow to to achieve achieve aa good which result. Firsl First of of ail, all, the the rooks rooks are are not not plucked, the the birdi are resull. drawn and and only only the the breast breast il> is retained. retained. The legs are tough and drawn the carcase carcase bitter. bitter. the 'Having washed washed the the breasts, breasts, they are left left to to soak soak in in milk milk for for 'Having hours; they they are are then cut cut up up and the pieces are the pieces are arranged arranged in in aa 66 hours; pie dish, dish, and and seasoned, seasoned, sparing sparing neither neither pepper norspices. nor spices. The The pie bottom of the dish of the dish should should be lined with be lined with sorne some slices slices of beef. of beef. bottom Strips of placed on ofbacon are placed on top of pieces of ofthe ofrook, and bacon are the pîeces rook, and halved hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs are are distributed here and and there. there. This This pie 1S is then covered with aa sheet pastry and put put in the oven sheet of pastry pie then covered for li l| hours. hours. for 'When the is taken out of of the oven a little little good stock to 'When the pie pie is taken out which quantity of small quantity of half-glaze which aa small balf-g1aze is added, is poured into the the pie.' pie.' (Alfred (Alfred Suzanne, la Cuisine et la pdtisserie pâtisserie anglaise.)

roasts).

for roasIS). for Serve with Poivrade sauce (see SAUCE) or any other Serve with Poivrade sauce (see SAUCE) or any other appropriate sauce for furred game, with Chestnut purie (see sauce for furred game, with Chestnui purée (see CHESTNUTS) and gooseberry jelly. and gooseberry je!ly. Roebuck (venison) saddle A l,allemande. sELLE DE crrEvREUrL Roebllck (venison) saddle Il l'aUemande. SELLE OF. CHEvREUIL A L'ALLEMANDE - Trim and lard the saddle. Marinate for 12 À L'ALLEMANDE - Trim and lard Ihe saddle. Marinale for 12 hours in an uncooked marinade (q.v.). Dry the meat and hours in an uncooked marinade Dry the meat and roast it in a rather narrow roasting tin on a foundation of the roast it in a rather narrow roasting on a foundation of the vegetables

from the

(See

marinade. (See CULINARY CULINARY vegetables from the marinade. METHODS. Average cooking timesfor roasts). METHODS. Average cooking roas/s). When it is cooked set it on a dish and keep warm. Add a When it is cooked set it on a and warm. Add a little of the liquor from the marinade juices and marinade to to the juices and Iittle of the liquor from the vegetables in the baking tin. Boil down almost completely. vegetables in the baking tin. Boil down almost completely. Add 3+ dl. (generous f pint, 1| cups) cream. Boil down by Add dl. t piut, li cups) cream. Boil down by one-third. Add I tablespoon dissolved meat gaze or double 1 lablespoon dissolved meat glaze or double consomm6. Pass the sauce through a strainer and serve with consommé. Pass the sauce through a strainer and serve with the

joint.

the joint. Roebuck (venison) saddle grand veneur. SELLE DE crrEvREUrL Roebuck (venison) saddle wand veneur. SELLE DE CHEVREUIL cRAND vENEUR Lard the saddle with strips of larding bacon GRAND VENEUR - Lard the saddle witb slrips oflarding bacon or salt pork. Roast it in the manner described above and or salt park. Roast it in the manner described above and arrange on a serving dish. Garnish with braised chestnuts and Garnish with braised chestnuts and Dauphine potatoes (see POTATOES) arranged in clumps at POT ATOES) arranged in clumps at each end ofthe dish. Serve with Grandveneur (see Serve wjth Grand veneur sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Sliced roebuck (venison) with various sauces. emNcfs on SUced roebuck (venison) with various sauces, EMTNCÉS DE cHEvRETJTL - Prepare with cold roebuck or venison in the CHEVREUIL - Prepare with cold roebuck or venison in the same way as for sliced lamb or beef with various sauces. same as for sliced lamb or heef with various sauces. Cover the slices of meat with poivrade sauce, Grand veneur Cover slices of meat with Poivrade sauce, Grand veneur sauce, or Chasseur sauce (see SAUCE). Serve with Chestnut sauce, or Chasseur sauce (sec SAUCE). Serve with Chesznul purie (see CHESTNUTS) and gooseberry jelly. purée (sec CHESTNUTS) and gooseberry jelly. ROGNONNADE - Cut of veal to which the kidney has been ROGNONNADE - Cut of veal ta which the kidney has been left adhering. This piece is roasted or baked. left adhering. This piece is roasted or baked.

ROOT. Name used of vegetable ROOT. RAvE RAVE - Name used for for a category category of vegetable plants, whose swollen (see TURNIp). In whose subterranean sublerranean parts parts are are swollen (see TURNTP). cookery turnip, kohl-rabi, cookery those those mostly used used are are turnip, kohl-rabi, beetroot, carrot, carrot, celeriac celeriac and and radish. ROPINESS. ROPINESS. cRArssE GRA1SSE DEs ms vrxs VINS -- A A defection peculiar peculiar to white white wines. wînes. It It is is encountered encountered especially in in the white wbite wines wines of of the Cher, Cher, Poitou, Poitou, Orl6ans Orléans and and Champagne districts. districts. This This generally geoerally occurs oœurs as aa result of pressing pressing the the grapes as as soon Soon as as they they are are gathered. gathered, The The must must enclosed enclosed in in the vats vats ferments ferments independently independently of of the the skin, slUn, pips pips and stalks, stalks, which which provide provide the the tannin tannin need need to to clarify clarify the the must. must. At At the the clarification clarification stage, stage, the the gelatinous gelatinous and and albuminous albuminous elements elements remain remain in in suspension, suspension, which which leaves leaves the the wines wines cloudy. cloudy. At At this this stage, stage, the the remedy remedy is Îs to to put put tannin tannin in in the the cask. cask. This This not not only only causes causes the the sediment sediment in in the the wine wine to to settle, seUle, but but also also separates out out the the fish fish glue which whîch has has been been added added as as aa clarifying agent, and which will will not not be he found found in in the the next next

ROI DES CNLLES (King of quails) - popular name for rhe ROI DES CAILLES (King quails) name for the land rail. This bird was so called because it appeared at the land rail. This bird was so called bccause appeared at the same time as the quails and disappeared at the same time as sa me lime as the quails and disappearcd at the same timc as they did. Formerly it was believed that it directed the quails in they did. Formerly il was believed that it direcled tbe quails in their flight. For cooking instructions see eUAIL. their flighL For cooking instructions see QUAIL.

or

clarification The The proportion proportion of of tannin tannin to to be be used used with with ropy ropy wine wine is is 15 15

ROLL OUT. ABATsSER - To spread out pastry or any other ROLL OUT. ABA1SSER - To spread out pastry or any other mixture (puff pastry, short pastry, sw-et pastry, almond

to to 30 30 g. g. per per hectolitre hectolitre (100 (100 litres). litres).

mixture (puff pastry, short pastry, swect pastry, almond paste, etc.) with the aid of a rolling-pin in one uniform strip of paste, etc.) with the aid of a rolling-pin in one uniform strip of varylng thinness. In the case of a biscuit or sponge, we say varying thinness. ln the case of a biscuit or sponge, we say that it is divided in slices of the same thickness. or abaissei. tbat it is divided in slices of the same thickness, or abaisses. For the method see DOUGH. For the method see DOUGH.

ROLLMOPS

ROQUEFORT ROQUEFORT CHEESE CHEESE-- See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

ROQUILLE ROQUIllE -- French French culinary culinary term term for for orange orange peel. peel. These These skins skinsare arecandied candied and and used used ininconfectionery. confectionery.

ROLLMOPS -- Fillets of of herrings herrings prepared prepared in in aa highly hîghly seasoned marinade, generally based on white wine, then seasoned marinade, generally based on white winc, then rolled around gherkins and pinned with a wooden skewer to rolled around gherkins and pinned with a wooden skewer ta hold them. Rollmops are served as hors-d'euvre. hold lhem. Rollmops are served as hors-d'œuvre.

Fillets

ROSEMARY. ROSEMARY. noumrN ROMARIN-- Perennial Perennial evergreen, evergreen, reaching reaching55ft. fI. inin height, height, with with narrow narrow hard hard leaves, leaves, green green above above and and grlyish grcyish below, below, with wÎth aa strongly strooglyaromatic aromatic smell. sme]L The Theleaves, leaves, fresh fresh and and dried, dried,are areused usedininseasoning. seasoning.

ROLLOTSee CHEESE. ROLLOT - Sec CHEESE.

ROSETTE ROSETTE -- Name Name given given to to aa special special sausage sausage of of the the first tirs! quality qualitymade madeininthe theLyons Lyonsdistrict, district, which whichisiseaten eatenuncooked. uncooked. (See (SeeSAUSAGE.) SAUSAGE.)

ROLY-POLY PUDDING

ROLY-POLY PUDDING -- Pudding Pudding made made of ofsuet suet pastry paSlry spread with jam, rolled in the shape of a sausage, and cooked spread with jam, rolled in the of a sausage, and cooked in water. (See PUDDING, Engldsh suet roll pudding.) in water. (See PUDDING. SIIel roll pudding.)

ROSSINI ROSSINI-- See SeeGARNISHES. GARNISHES. 780 780

ROUSSETTE

ROUSSETTE

ROSSOLLoT ROSSOLL orROSOLIOROSOLIO -Liqueurformerly Liqueur formerlymade madefrom fromthe the sundew sundewplant. plant. ROTA ROTA - Wine Wine from from the the north north of of Spain, Spain, much much used used inin

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blending. blending.

ROTENGLE ROTENGLE-- Freshwater Freshwaterfish, fish,better betterknown knownininFrance Franceasas gardon gardon rouge. rouge. Its Itsbody bodyisis aa little littledeeper deeperand and less lesselongated elongated ihan thanthe thecommon commonroach. roach.ItIthas hasaabright brightred redeye eyeand anditsitsfins finsare are red redand andpink. pink.ItItisiscooked cookedlike likeroach roach(q.v.). (q.v.). ROTIE RÔTIE(Toast) (Toast)-- Slice Sliceofofbread breadbaked bakedor ortoasted. toasted. R6ties Rôties (pieces (pieœs of of toast) toast) are are buttered buttered and and served served with with

breakfast,iea, Thesame samename nameisisgiven giventotocanapis canapésspread spread breakfast, tea,etc. etc.The with with forcemeat forcemeat which which are are served served with with game game birds, birds, roasts roasts inin general general and and woodcock woodcock and and snipe snipe in in particular, particular, and and to to small small snacks snacks made made by by putting putting an an egg egg or or some sorne kind kind of ofspread spread on on aa slice slice of oftoasted toasted or or fried fried bread. bread. ROTISSERIE RÔTISSERIE -- Part Part of of the the kitchen kitchen specially specially equipped equipped for for preparing preparingroasts. roasts. ItIt isis also also the the word word given givento to modern modern portable portable designed appliances appliances designed to to roast roast meat meat on on aa spit. spit. 'fy work done done by by the the By extension, extension, the the word word also also describes describes the the work cheiin chefin this this special special section section in in the the big big catering cateringestablishments, esta blishments, aa specialist specialist in in all aIl the the work work of ofthe the ritisserie. rôtisserie. riltissettr) as The The rôtisseur, as he he is is called, caIled, is is employed employed not not only only in in roasting roasting but but also also in in grilling grilling and and frying. frying. kr In the the most most important important rltisserie is establishments establishments the rôtisserie is divided divided into into three three parts, parts, each each having having a a specialist specialist in in charge: charge: the the riltisseur rôtisseur proper, proper, the the the fri tur ie r. ggri//ardin r ill ar din and thefriturier. Certain Certain specialised specialised places, places, where where all aIl kinds kinds of of spit-roasted spit-roasted are also sold, are poultry are cooked and sold, also called called rdtisseries' rôtisseries. across the slice across fairly thick This is of veal. This ROUELLE-- Cut ofveal. ROUELLE is aa fairly thick slice the leg.

CHEESE. ROUENNAIS-- See CHEESE. ROUENNAIS

hot in hot popular in very popular of seasoning seasoning very form of A form ROUGAIL -- A style. cre6le style. in the the Creole cooked in dishes cooked in various dishes used in countries, used countries, appetite. the appetite. stimulates the spicy itit stimulates very spicy Being very to the the belong to given below below belong are given which are recipes which ioigoit recipes nUlne AlI the rougai/ cookery. Cr6ole cookery. of Créole repertoire of repertoire Cut 44 vsnrEs -- Cut PoMMEs VERTES DE POMMES RoucAIL DE green apples. apples. ROUGAIL of green itougril of Rougail of bowl a into them putting dice i-n tiny peeledgreen"apples peeled green apples in tiny dice putting them into a bowl of water. salted water. salted to squeezing to napkin, squeezing in aa napkin, put them them in and put dice and apple dice the apple Drain the Drain have you will will have where you dish where in aa dish Put them them in water. Put the water. all the extract aIl extract with aa smoothly with pounded smoothly ginger, pounded and ginger, pimentos and layer of of pimentos set aa layer set oil. olive oil. little olive little lemon of lem squeeze of add aasqueeze enoughadd sharp enough notsharp are not If the theaapples If pples are on juice. juice. D'AUBERGINES (eggplants). phnts). ROUGAlL RouGArL D'AUBERGINESofaubergines aubergines(egg Rougail of Rougail of slice of mortar 1Islice Poundininaamortar water. Pound saltedwater. Boil2-aubergines Boil2 aubergines ininsalted pimento seasoned little pimento glngerand andaalittle pieceof ofginger t.itl piece onion,a smàll onion, -seasoned " Put lemon withlemon dilute ititwith plate and and dilute onaaplate mixture on Putthis tliismixture salt. withsalt. with split aubergines, split cooked aubergines, thecooked outthe juiceand Takeout oil.Take goodolive oliveoil. andgood juice add andadd seeds,and theseeds, removed the havingremoved flesh,having theflesh, outthe ."o6pout ih.-,scoop them, withaa mashingwith sauce' mashing preparedsauce, theprepared little,totothe tittteby bylittIe, tnem,!ittle them, paste. reducedtotoaapaste. completelyreduced arecompletely auberginesare thatthe theaubergines forksosothat fork dish. intoananhors-d'euvre Turninto Turn hors-d'œuvre dish. ET DE MoRUEET DEMORUE RoUGAILDE tomatoes.ROUGAIL andtomatoes. codand saltcod Rougeilofofsalt DE Rougail water coolwater soakinginincool bysoaking codby saltcod small De-salta asm rorulrrs- -De-salt aIl salt TOMATES bones' and skin RemoveaIlallskin and bones. wanted.Remove beforeititisiswanted. eveningbefore theevening the brown andbrown Flourand pieces'Flour smallpieces. cutininsmall andcut clothand witha icloth Drywith Dry pan' thepan. sideofofthe oneside Pushtotoone fat.Push andfat. panwith withoiloiland lightlyinina apan lightly not donot theydo thatthey heatsosothat lowheat overlow onionsover choppedonions C-oot3 foror4 4chopped Cook stew andstew tomatoes,and deseededtomatoes, peeledand anddeseeded fieihpeeIed Add4 4fresh colour.Add colour. garlic,sorne some glnger,1 clove I clovegarlic, someginger, gently.Pound Poundsorne togethergently. themtogether them thjs Incorporatethis pimento'Incorporate smallpimento. and1 1small iomeparsley thyme,sorne thyme, farstiyand about4040 forabout Cookfor cod.Cook gentlysimmering simmeringcod. ihegently withthe .i*toi.with mixture

then put the pan (still covered) in the oven, and leave minutes, minutes, then put the pan (still covered) in the oven, and leave 20 minutes. ititfor for 20 minutes. Serve with rice.

Serve with rice.

DE cREVETTES of shrimps or prawns. RoUGAIL Rougeil Rougail of shrimps or prawns. some ROUGAlL DE CREVETTES shrimps or prawnsthe heads and tails from Remove Remove the heads and tails from sorne shrimps or prawns and fry them in fat. Shell them. and fry them in fat. Shell them. in a mortar onion with a small piece of ginger and Cruin Crush in a mortarI t onion with a small piece of ginger and pimento. Season with salt. salt. ^pimento. Season withlittle by little, pounding all the time' Add the shrimps, Add the shrimps, little by little, pounding aIl the time. all is reduced to a paste, add 2 small tomatoes that have when When aIl is reduced to a paste, addjuice 2 small thatwell' have lemon' Mix of atomatoes been cooked in the oven, and the of a lemon. Mix weIl. been cooked in the oven, and the juicedish' the mixture into an hors-d'euvre Turn Turn the mixture into an hors-d'œuvre dish. This rougail is served alone or with fish curry' Often, when

This rougail is served alone or with fish curry. Often, when the rougail is made, it is reheated with olive oil in a frying pan' the rougail is made, it is reheated with olive oil in a frying pan. of raw tomatoes. RouGArL DE ToMATES cRUEs Rougail Rougail of raw tomatoes. ROUGAlL DE TOMATES CRUES Pound_a little onion with a piece of ginger the size of a walnut.

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Pound a little onion with a piece of ginger the size of a walnut. peeled and seeded tomatoes and mash all togethcr' Add Add peeled and seeded tomatoes and mash aIl together. juice' of lemon a squeeze and pimento some Incorporate Incorporate sorne pimento and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve in anhors-d'auvre dish' Serve in an hors-d'œuvre dish. creole dishes served with rice. accompanies This This seasoning seasoning accompanies Créole dishes served with rice. The French common name for RMERE DE ROUGE ROUGE DE RIVIÈRE -- The French common name for the Shoveller duck. This bird, whose flesh is succulent, is the Shove//er duck. This bird, whose flesh is succulent, is nearly always roasted. (See DUCK' Wildduck') nearly always roasted. (See DUCK, Wi/d duck.) See CHEESE. ROUGERETROUGERET - See CHEESE.

ROLL Rolled piece of veal or pork' ROULADE, ROULADE, ROLL -- Rolled piece ofveal or pork. A thin slice of meat spread with some kind of forcemeat and A thin slice ofmeat spread with sorne kind offorcemeat and rolled into a sausage is also known as roulade' rolled into a sausage is also known as roulade.

This term is also applied to various preparations, mostly of

This term is also applied to various preparations, mostly of pork or veal, made ffe galantines (q.v.). Thts roulade de t?te -d" pork or veal, made like galantines (q.v.). Thusstuffed rouladewith de têtea pig's head, boned, porc describes a de porc describes a pig'spig's head, boned, stuffed with a and bacon tongue, streaky for&meat of chopped-up forcemeat of chopped-up pig's tongue, streaky bacon and ingredients, iolled like 'boar's head' and cooked in a other other ingredients, rolled like 'boar's head' cooked in a de veau of noix sliceand jelly stoJk; roulade de veau describes a slice of noix demixed veau jelly stock; roulade de veau describes a of kind, some forcemeat spread with a f"tt"ord, spread *dl fattened, weIl with a forcemeat of sorne kind, mixed with meat cut in small dice, rolled into a galantine and braised

a galantine and braised with meat cut in small dice, roUed into or poached in white court-bouillorn (q.v'). or poached in white court-bouillon (q.v.). Rolled-out sheet of biscuit (cake) mixture, spread ROULf -- Rolled-out ROULÉ sheet of biscuit (cake) mixture, spread with thick jam, then rolled. The top is sprinkled with praline with thick jam, then rolled. The top is sprinkled with praline and toasted almonds. and toasted almonds. (Pastry wheel) - A small toothed wheel, in ROULETTE (Pastry ROULETTE wheel) - A small toothed wheel, in metal, mounted free on a handle, and used to cut or wood wood or metal, mounted free on a handle, and used to cut pastry. pastry.

Roulette

(U.S.) or SILVERSIDE (G.B.). cirs A LA NoIx ROUND (V.S.) ROUND or SILVERSIDE (G.B.). GÎTE À LA NOIX leg-of beef. This cut includes in particular the thl Part of Part of the leg of beef. This cut includes in particular the (p"tttendon, tendon, part membrane) and part of the tendons(part tendons part membrane) and part of the femoral biceps, the gemellus muscle, the pyramidal and the femoral biceps, the gemellus muscle, the pyramidal and the crural square. crural square. This cut is used chiefly in hot-pots, and it may also be This cut is used chiefly in hot-pots, and it may also be braised. braised. In Paris and other large French cities, it is sold larded, ln Paris and other large French cities, it is sold larded, rolled and tied. rolled and tied. ROUSSELET. (Rnsset pear) Summer pear, so named ROUSSELET. (Russet pear) - -Summer pear, so named because its skin is russet colour. The flesh is sweet and well because its skin is russet colour. The fiesh is sweet and weil flavoured. fiavoured. This pear is mostly preserved by drying. This pear is mostly preserved by drying. Name given to a kind of fritter in certain ROUSSETTE- -Name ROUSSETTE given to a kind of fritter in certain 781 781

ROUSSETTE regions of France, which in other places known asmerveille regions of France, which in other places isisknown as merveille or oreillette. It is made in this wav: or oreillette. It is made in this way: Make a rather thick dough of SOO g. (lg o2.,4|cups) sifted Make a rather thick dough of 500 g. (18 oz., sifted flour, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) milk, I iablesflour, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons (3 tat,les;poOns) tablespoon orange-blossom water, I small glass brandy and a pinch orange-blossom water, 1 sm ail of salt. Gather up the dough into ball, wrap it in a cloth and leave Gather up the dough into aabail, wrap it in a c10th and leave it to rest in a cool place for hours. it to rest in a cool place for 33hours. Roll out into a thin sheet, and cut out with a plain round Roll out into a thin sheet, and cut out with a round pastry cutter. Drop into hot deep fat. Drain the rousettes pastry cutter. Drop into hot deep fat. Drain TOusettes when they are well browned and crisp. Sprinkle with sugar when they are weil browned and crisp. Sprinkle with sugar and arrange in a mound on a napkin. and arrange in a mound on a napkin.

ROUSSILLON See See LANGUEDOC LANGUEDOC AND AND ROUSROUS-

ROUSSILLON SILLON.

SILLON.

ROUSSIR - To turn in smoking hot butter, or other fat, a ROUSSIR - To tum in smoking hot butter, or other fat, a piece of meat or poultry, in order to colour it. order to colour il. piece ofmeat or poultry, in The word roussir cannot be translated in its proper sense, The word roussir cannot be translated in its proper sense,

colouredrums rumsare arebest bestsuited suitedfor grogsand forgrogs (on anddesserts desserts(on coloured accountoftheir powerfularoma). of theirpowerful aroma).This Thisisiswhy, why,until untilrecently, recently, account rumwas wasused usedmostly mostlyfor fordesserts dessertsand p6tisser,re.AAfew andpâtisserie. years fewyears rum ago,the theComité Comitinational gastronomic, (which nationaldedegastronomie, (whichorganises organisesan an ago, annualculinary culinarycompetition competitioncalled calledthe' the'poile d'or')dedicated dedicated annual Poêle d'or') theevent eventtotorecipes recipesbased basedon onrum. rum.This Thisencouraged encouraged the themore more the frequentuse useofrum of rumininthe theftavouring flavouring offish of fishand andmeat meatdishes, dishes, frequent etc.Sorne Someof ofthe therecipes recipesare givenbelow. aregiven below. etc. Filletsofburbot of burbotIlilalacréole. creole.FILETS FTLETsDE DELOTTE LorrgCRÉOLE cnforn- -Brown Brown Fillets somechopped choppedonion onionand andcarrots, carrots,and andsprinkle sprinklewith withflour. flour. sorne Placeininaapan pan with withaalittle littlelukewarm lukewarm water waterand andbring bring totothe Place the boil.Add quartered tomatoes, Addquartered tomatoes, thyme, thyme,bay bayleaf leafand garlic. andgarlic. boil. Seasonwith with salt. salt.Simmer Simmerthe thesauce, sauce,then thensieve sieveit.it.Add Add rum rum Season place the andan anequal equal amount amountof offresh freshcream. cream.Place filletsininaa thefillets and buttered serving servingdish pourthe dishand andpour thesauce sauceover. over. Bake Bakefor for1515 buttered minutes. minutes. Rabbitwith prunesand with prunes androm. rum.LAPIN LAprNAUX AUxPRUNEAUX rRTJNEAUXAU RHrrM AU RHUM Rabbit Steep250 (9 OZ., 250 g.g.(9 prunes for oz., cups) cups) prunes for22hours hours inin rum - Steep rum blended with with aa little little lukewarm water. water. Cut Cut up the blended the rabbit. rabbit. Brown the pieces in in oil oil with with diced diced bacon bacon and and onions.Add Add the the liquid in in which the prunes have the prunes have been been steeped, steeped, aabouquet bouquet garni, garni, salt and pepper,and and pepper, andsimmer simmer gently gently for for 45 45 minutes. minuteJ. Add AaA the tne drained prunes prunes and and simmer simmer for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. drained Young guinea pTNTADEAux fowl ài l'antillaise. I'antlllaise. PINTADEAUX ÀA L'ANTILLAISE Young guinea fowl L',tNTrrllnE Clean, singe singe and and cut-up 22 guinea guinea fowl fowl into pieces. Brown into 88pieces. -- Clean, Brown quickly in these quickly in aa liule little butter, stirring stirring ail all the the time. time.When these When they they golden, add are golden, add chopped chopped onions, onions, aa clove garlic, and clove of of garlic, are and aa !ittle little flour. Moisten glasses of with 22 glasses of dry dry wine. wine. Add Add 22 tomatoes tomatoes cut flour. Moisten with cut quarters. Cover in quarters. Cover and and simmer simmer gently for for 20 in 20 minutes. minutes. Meanwhile, steep 44 slices slices ofpineapple of pineapple and 6 sliced sliced bananas Meanwhile, bananas in in white rum. rum. Fry 6 diced, diced, sweet sweet potatoes in in butter. white butter. Lightly Lightly brown the the sliced pinea pineapple and the bananas bananas in in aa frying pan. brown pp le and frying pan. Serve the pieces of the pieces guinea fowl of guinea fowl on pineappte slices. the pineapple on the Serve slices. Garnish with with the bananas and and potatoes. Skim Skim the Garnish the fat fat from from the the c.goking liquid and and boil boil down. down. Coat the guinea fowl the guinea cooking fowl with with it. it. (Rccipe of ' Maman' Olivier, paris.) Olivier, rue Médéric, M6d6ric, Paris.) pouLET Sfiffed cbicken. chicken. POULET FARCI FARcr - Make Make aa mixture mixture of of the the chicken's liver, sausage meat, meat, breadcrumbs soaked chicken's liver, sausage soaked in in milk, chopped onion, onion, salt, pepper, spices, salt, pepper, spices, chopped chopped chopped parsley and and fresh Stuffthe fresh cream. cream. Stuff the chicken with this mixture. hoastin the oven. When When cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with with rum oven. rum and flamber. Serve and flamber. with sweetcorn croquettes. croquettes. with sweetcorn

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because the meats so fried must be golden rathei thin russet. because the meats so fried must be golden rather th an russel. ROLIX - Mixture of butter or other fatty substance and ffour, ROUX - Mixture of butter or other cooked together for varying periods of time depending on its cooked together for varying periods final use. final use. The roux is the thickening element in sauces. The roux is the thickening element in sauces. There are three kinds of roux: white roux" blond roux and There are three kinds of roux: white roux, blond roux and brown rozx. brown roux. Brown roux is used to thicken rich brown sauces like Brown roux is used to thicken rich brown sauces like Espagnole and, Demi-glace (see SAUCE). It is made by Espagnole and Demi-glace (see SAUCE). It is made by cooking flour in clarified butter in the oven, gently and for a cooking flour in c1arified butter in the oven, gently and for a

long time, stirring frequently.

The clarified clarified fat fat from from aa long time, stirring frequently. The marmite (q.v.) may also be used, but in each case the marmite (q.v.) may also be used, but in each case the proportions are equal amounts by tablespoons of flour and .... r,·"-"-.rt.,,.,,, are equal amounts by tablespoons of flour and butter or fat. or fat. This roux should be of a good light brown colour. It can be This roux should be of a good light brown colour. It can be kept for quite a long time. kept for quite a time. Blond roux made only with butter. The proportions of Blond roux is is only with butter. The of butter and flour are the same as for brown ,oi*.itis cooked butter and flour are the same as for brown roux. is cooked more rapidly and it is only made at the moment it is needed. more rapidly and it is only made at the moment it is needed. Its colour should be a pale gold. Hs cof'our should be a pale gold. roux is used and, Veloutd * White White roux is used for for BCchamel Béchamel and Velouté sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and special thick soups. It is made by cooking flour and thick soups. It is made by cooking and clarified butter for 5 minutes over the heat and siirring for 5 minutes over the heat and stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. constantly with a wooden spoon. ROYALE ROYALE -- Moulded Moulded custard, custard, variously variously flavoured, flavoured, which which is is used as garnish in clear soup. (See GARNISHES.) used as garnish in c1ear soup. (See GARNISHES.)

l|

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RUMP. The fleshy part of RUMP. cul,orrs CULOTTEof the haunch haunch ofbeef, of beef, used - The made into ragofrts. ragoûts. (See (See BEEF.) BEEF.) Top Top ofrump. FoTNTE POINTE DE DE culorrE CULOTTE - piece Piece ofbeeftaken of beef ta ken from

in in hot-pots. hot-pots. This This cut can can also also be be braised and and

ROYALE (A f,^11 - Name given to different preparations, for LA) - Name given to different preparations, for example, to consomm6 garnished with custard shapes, and to example, to consommé garnished with custard shapes, and to various dishes, particularly of poultry, poached in very little various dishes, particularly of poultry, poached in very !ittle liquid, coated with Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) boiled down liquid, coated with Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) boiled down with cream and finished with cream and finished with with truffie trume pur6e purée and arid various various garnishes. garnishes. The same name is applied to sweets, hot and cold. The same name is applied to sweets, hot and cold.

the the rump. rump. (See BEEF.) BEEF.)

RUSCUS. RUSCUS. pRAc,oN PRAGON - Plant Plant similar to asparagus. asparagus. The best best krrown known variety variety is is butcher'i butcher's broom or knee-holly. knee-holly. The young young shoots shoots are are eatable eatable and and are are used used like like hop hop shoots. shoots.

RUSH. RUSH. JoNc JONC -- Most Most types of of reed reed belong belong to to the the rush rush family. family. The The scented scented Indian Indian tush, rattan, rattan, isis used used ai as aa spice spice in in the the Easi. East. The The root root of of the the scented scented Indian Indian rush rush is is used used in in infusion infusion as as aa carminative carminative and and appetite-stimulant. appetite-stimulanl. The The chopped chopped root root blenblended ded with with alcohol alcohol produces produces aa tincture tincture that that mayilso may also be be used used for for stomach stomach upsets. upsets.

ROYAII ROYAN -- AA kind kind of oflarge large sardine. sardine. RUM. The name rum or RUM.nnuu RHUM-- The namerum ortafia tafiaisisreserved reserved for for the thespirit spirit obtained obtained from from the the alcoholic alcoholic fermentation fermentation and and distillation distillation of of juice of sugar either either the the juice of sugar cane, cane, or or the the syrup syrup (molasses) (molasses)

obtained obtainedfrom from the theprocessing processingofcane of canesugar. sugar. Rum, Rum,like likeall ailspirits, spirits,isiscolourless colourless when whenititemerges emergesfrom from the the distilling distilling apparatus. apparatus. After After aa lengthy lengthy period period in in oak oak casks, casks, itit acquires a pale amber hue. The care (or lack of it) that goes acquires a pale amber hue. The care (or lack of it) that goes into into this this ageing process makes makes or or mars mars the the fineness fineness of ofrum. rum. Some'old rums'are Sorne arevalued val uedjust justas ashighly as asthe thefinest finestspirits. The colour of ordinary rum, on the other hand, is achievld by The colour of ordinary rum, on is the addition of artificial caramel colouring. the addition of artificial caramel col ou ring. White rum is used in preparation the White rum is used in the preparation of oftropical tropical drinks: drinks: punch, punch, Daiquiri, Daiquiri, Planter's Planter's rum, rum, etc. etc. Full-bodied. Full-bodied, amberamber-

RUSKS. RUSKS. BrscorrtsBISCOTTES - Slices Slices of ofspecial special bread, bread, cut cut from from the the loaf loaf and and re-baked re-baked in in the the oven. oven. Diet Dietrusks. rusks.BrscorrEs BISCOTTESDE DERfcrrr,c RÉGIME-- There Thereare arevarious various types typesof of rusks rusks in in the the shops, shops, of of different different degrees of of hardnesi hardness and and friability, friability, sweet sweet rusks rusks and and salty salt y rusks, etc. There There are are also also special rusks with withsalt saltcontent contentconpletely or orpartially partially specialtypes ofofrusks extracted, as well as rusks enriched with gluten, containing containing additional additionalcasein casein(legumen), (legumen),but butwith withreduced starch starchcontent. content. Others Othersare arevery veryrich richin instarch starch but buttheir theircontent contentin ingtuten glutenand and nitrogenous nitrogenouselements elementsisisreduced reducedto toaaminimum. minimum. 782 782

RYE RYE edges of They They are are found found in in summer summer and and autumn autumo on on the the edges of prepared woods, woods,ininfallow fallowland landand andnear oearbirch birchtrees. trees.They Theyare are prepared

Peris Parisrusks rusk.~. Blscorrrtt BISCOlTESPARISIBNNEs PARISIENNES-- Pound Pound 500 500g.g. (18 (18 oz., oz., generous generous 3{ J~ cups) cups) bitter bitter almonds almonds in in aa mortar, morlar, moistening moistening witn with Z2egg cgg whites whites and and 33tablespoons tablespoons (scant (seant *i cup) cup) kirsch kirsch or or other otherliqueur. liqueur. paste, When Wh en the Ihe almonds almonds have have been beeo reduced reduced to 10 aa smooth smoolh pas le, put put itit into into aa bowl bowl and and add add to to itit l0 10 egg egg yolks, yolks, one one at at aa time, time, itirring wood en spoon. spoon. Add Add 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2f 2: cups) cups) stirring with with aa wooden salt, and castor castorsugar, sugar,aapinch pinchof ofsalt, and 88egg eggwhites whiteswhisked whisked to 10aastiff stiff froth. (7 oz., oz., generous generouscup) cup) potato potato flour. f1our. froth. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 200 200 g.g. (7 Pipe Pipethii thismixture mixture through through aaforcing-bag forciog-bag onto ontobuttered buttered baking baking sheets and bake bake in in the the oven. oven. sheets and

like likemushrooms mushrooms(see (seeMUSHROOM). MUSHROOM).

yellowish RUTABAGA RUTABAGA, SWEET SWEET TURNIP TURNIP -- Turnip Turnip with with yellowish flesh, flesh, edible ediblebut butseldom seldom used used in inFrance Franceas as foodstuff. foodstuff.

after B -- The RYE. RYE. sptct SEIGLE The most mosl important important European European cereal cereal afler Alps wheat, wheat, originating originating in in the the region region between between the the Austrian Austrian Alps cold and and and the the Caspian Caspian Sea. Sea. Very Very hardy, hardy, very very resistant resistant to 10 cold and earlier earlier than than wheat, wheat, rye rye grows gTows in in the the worst worsl soils. soils.

mainly of Rye Rye flour, flour, rather rather greyish greyish in in colour, colom, consists consists mainly of

RUSSIA RUS!SIA -- See See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY.

gluten-casein. gluten-casein. ItIl has has little little agglutinative agglutinalive quality quality and and darkens darkens which is quickly. quickly. It It can can nevertheless nevertheless be be made made into into bread, bread, which is for a fresh keeps and brown brown in in colour, col our, has has an an agreeable agreeable taste taste and keeps fresh for a white bread. Rye than to digest difficult is more lo.ng time, but long Ume, but is more difficullto digest Ihan white bread. Rye flour flour isis used used to lo make make spiced spiced bread bread and and cakes. cakes.

RUSSULA. RUSSULA. RUssuLE RUSSULE -- Fungus Fungus with wilh white white flesh flesh and and aa pleasant pleasant flavour flavour known known in in various various regions regions of of France France as as russule , bordet russule. bordet vert, vert, vert vert bonnet, bonnet, palomet, palomel. berdanel, berdanel. blavet blavel and and verdette. verdelle.

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SABLAGE In times past this word, which means .sanding', SABLAGE -- In times past this word, which means 'sanding', was used to describe a table decoration made with sands of was used to describe a table decoration made with sands of different colours. The sand was spread on the tablecloth so as different colours. The sand was spread on the lablecJoth so as to form different designs flowers, landscapes, coats of arms, to form different designs -- flowers, landscapes, coats of arms, monograms, etc. monograms, etc. This type of decoration has today been completely abanThis type of decoration has today been completely abandoned. doned. SABLE Biscuit or cake, originating in Normandy. Make a SABLÉ -- Biscuit or cake, originating in Normandy. Make a circle of 500 g. ( I 8 oz., 4j cups) sifted flour on a laige board. circle of 500 g. (18 OZ., 4t cups) sifted flour on a large board. Place in the middle a00 g. (la oz., lf; cups) butter, 6 egg yolks, Place in(5the middle 400 g. (14 OZ., l~ cups) butter, 6 egg yolks, 150.g. o2.,3 sugar, I vanilla pod (or few drops of 150 g. (5 OZ., 5" cup) sugar, 1 vanilla pod (or aa few drops of vanilla essence) "rrp) and a pinch ofsalt. vaniIJa essence) and a pînch of salt. Mix the butter, sugar, egg yolks, vanilla and salt, and mix Mix the butter, sugar, egg yolks, vanûla and salt, and mix with the flour. Finish the operation as quickly possible. with the flour. Finish the operation as quickly as as possible. Blend the ingredients by breaking up the paste with the Blend the Ingredients by breaking up the pas te witb the palm of the hand. Form it once more into a bill and palm of the hand. Form it once more into a bail and leave leave it it for I hour. Roll out the mixture I cm. $inch) thick. Cut for 1 hour. Roll out the mixture 1 cm. (t inch) thick. Cut into into rounds about 12 cm. (5 inches) in diameter. Divide rounds about 12 cm. (5 ioches) io diameter. Divide these these into into 4 wedges. Put on a buttered baking sheet and cook in a low 4 wedges. Put on a buttered baking sheet and cook in a low oven for about l8 to 20 minutes. oyen for about 18 to 20 minutes. SACCHARINE - Commercial name for a crystalline chemiSACCHARINE - Commercial name for a crystallioe chemical substance, soluble in water, with a very sweet taste, having cal substance, soluble in water, with a very sweet taste, having also a faint taste of bitter almonds and leaving a dryness in thi also a faint taste ofbitter almonds and leaving a dryness in the throat. The sensation of sweetness that it providis throat. The sensation of sweetness that il provides is is 250 250 to to 300.times stronger than that of sugar, 5 centigrams being 300 times stronger than that of sugar, 5 centigrams being equivalent to a normal-sized sugar cube. But it has no equivaJent to a normal-sized sugar cube. But it has no chemical analogy with sugar and has none its nutritional chemical analogy with sugar and has none of of its nutritional value. value. ItIl isis chiefly used to give an illusion chiefly used to give an illusion of of sweetness sweetness for for diabetics, to whom sugar is forbidden. diabetics, to whom sugar is forbidden. SACCHAROMETER. pisE-srRop - Hydrometer calibrated SACCHAROMETER. - Hydrometer calibrated give the specific gravityPtsE-S1ROP to or density of sugar to gîve the specifie gravit y or density of sugar solutions. solutions. SACRISTAIN

SAIT'RON. SAFRAN sAFRAN -- The The dried dried stamens stamens of of the the saffron saffron or or SAFFRON. cultivated crocus, crocus, originating originating in in the the East East and introduced ioto and introduced into cultivated Spain by by the the Arabs, Arabs, and and cultivated cultivated in in France, France, particularly particularly in in Spain the Gâtinais, Gdtinais, since since the the sixteenth sixteenth cent century. Saffron contains contains aa lhe ury. Saffron volatile oil oil and and aa colouring colouring subslance. substance. Il It isis the the indispensable indispensable volatile condiment for for bouillabaisse. bouillabaisse. condiment good saffron A good saffron should should be be aa dark dark orange orange colour colour ail all over over A without white white streaks; streaks; itit is is sometime sometime falsîfied falsified with with safHower saffiower without (bastard saffron) saffron) which which is is redder redder in in coloue colour. (bastard It isis said said that that aa dish dish is (saffroned) when it is safrané safrant (saffroned) it contains contains It saffron or or when when itit is is saffron saffron coloured. coloured. saffron Saffron of of the thelndiesSee CURCUMA. CURCUMA. Saffron Indies - See SAGE. SAUGE sAUGE -- Name Name of of various of which there there are SAGE. various Labiatae Labiawe of some 500 species with distinct perfume and with some 500 species with a a distinct perfume and with an aromatic, slightly slightly bitter aromatic, bitter taste, taste, among among which are are three three French varieties, (grande sauge), varieties, great great sage sage (grande sauge), of of ramose ramose inflorescence, inflorescence, with witb thick, thick, oblong, oblong, hairy hai ry leaves, leaves, ashy ashy green green in in colour; col our; the provence), small small Provengal Provençal sage sage Qtetite (petite sauge sauge de de Provence), with with smaller, sm aller, whiter whiter leaves leaves and and aa more more pronounced proDounced scent, scent, which which is is the the most highly highly esteemed esteemed species; species; and and the the Catalogne Catalogne sage, sage, which is is even even smaller. smaller. All Ali these these species species are are used used in in making making flavoured flavoured vinegar. vlOegar. Sage Sage is is used used in in cookery cookery to [0 flavour flavour marinades marinades and and forceforcemeats, meats, and and is is threaded threaded into into meat meat that that isis to to be be roasted. roasted. Small Small birds birds are are wrapped wrapped in in it, it, pa4icularly particularly thrushes. thrushes. ItIt is Îs also also added added during during the the cooking cooking ofgreen of green beans, beans, peas peas and and broad broad beans beans to to flavour flavour them. them. Some Some sweet sweet fritters friners are are made made with with it. il. In In certain certain parts parts of of Northern Northern Europe Europe the the young young shoots shoots are are eaten eaten as as aa salad. salad. In In England England there there are are two two indigenous indigenous sages, sages, Salvia Salvia ververbenaca benaca which which isÎs very very common common and and Salvia Salvio pratensis. pralemü, which which isis rare. culinary sage, rare. Our Ourculinary sage, Salvia Sa/viaofficilla/is, Îs not aanative nativeplant. plant. fficinalis,iJnot The The culinary clllinary sage, sage, the the common common garden garden sage sage and and the the white white sage, sage, Salvia SalvÎa fficinalis officinalisalba, alba, arc aregrown grown inin the the U.S.A., U .S.A., but but not not inin sufficient sufficient quantity, quantity, and and tons tons of of sage sage are are imported imported every every year. year.

Small puff pastry made in

SACRJST AlN -- Small puff pastry made in the the shape shape of of aa paper twist. paper twist.

SADDLE. sELLE, RABLE - In terms of butchery the French SADDLE. SELLE, RABLE - In terms of butchery the French word selle describes the part of the hindquarters word selle describes the part of the hiodquarters extending extending from the last ribs to the leg on both sides (mutton, tamb,

SAGO. SAGO. sAcou SAGOU -- Floury Floury extract extract of ofthe the marrow marrow of of various various

kinds kindsofofpalm palmtree. tree. This Thisyellowish yelJowish flour, flour, tending tendingto tored red or orbrown, brown, isis used used for for cooking cooking and and baking baking as as aa liaison liaison element, element, and and often often also also to to prepare preparesoups soupsand anddishes dishesthat that are arerecommended recommended for forspecial special diets. diets. Sago Sagoconsomm6consommé - See SeeSOUPS SOUPSAND ANDBROTHS, BROTHS,Consommt Consommé with withsago. sago. Sago Sagopuddingpudding -See SeePUDDING. PUDDING.

from the last ribs to the leg on both sides (mutton, lamb, roebuck). roebuck). The word rable descibes the fleshy part extending from the The word rable describes the fleshy pa rt extending l'rom the base of the shoulder to the tail of small domestii or wild base of (rabbits, the shoulder to the tail of small domestic or wild animals hares) formed by the sacro-lumbar, animais (rabbits, hares) formed by the sacro-lumbar, long long dorsal and transverse spinal muscles. In English cookery, thi dorsal and transverse spinal muscles. In English cookery, the hare is the only small animal to which the word .saddle'is hare is the only smalt animal to which [he word 'saddle' is applied. applied.

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SALAD SALAD The The Saint-Honor6 Saint-Honoré is is made made with with two two different different kinds kinds of of pastry: pastry: Fine Fine lining liningpaste paste fot for the the base base and and Chou Choupaste paste for for the the the baseon little choux, which which are are arranged arranged in in aa crown crown on the base. little iced iced choux, (See DOUGH.) (See DOUGH.) To To make makethe the Saint-Honort.Withthe Saint-Honoré. With the rolled-out roUed-out lining Iining paste paste make 18to to 20 20cm. cm. (7 (7 to to 88inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. Moisten Moisten make aa circle circle l8 paste of chou the and pipe pipe aa thick truck ring ring of chou paste the edges edges with with aa brush, brush, and round round the the damp damp edge. edge. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oyen. On On aa separate separate baking baking sheet sheet make make two two dozen dozen little !ittle round round choux choux the the size size of of walnuts. walnuts. Brush Brush with with egg egg and and bake bake in in aa moderately moderately hot hot oven oyen for for about about l5 15 minutes. minutes. To for the To cook cook the the sugar sugar and and icing icingfor the choux. choux. Put Put into into aa copper copper pan pan 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., OZ., generous generous cup) cup) sugar, sugar, some sorne glucose glucose as as big big as as aa walnut walnut and and 22 dl. dl. G (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) water. water. Cook Cook rapidly rapidly over over the (see Take SUGAR). degree aa good good heat heat to to small small crack crack degree (see SUGAR). Take the pan pan from from the the heat heat and and dip dip the the choux choux into into the the sugar, sugar, icing icing the the lightly' very the sugar into Dip the bottoms tops only. tops only. Dip the bottoms into the sugar very lightly, and and set set them of chou chou PasfiY. pastry. them on on to to the the ring ring of ( pints, I litre Heatf i. ainl- H onor r eam filling foi the C I pints, lf, Creamfillingfor the SSaint-Honoré. Heat ~ litre (lt I~ pints) pints) Fr-ench French pastry pastry cream cream (see (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Add Add to to it it while while 4 tablespoons) warm warm 6 6 leaves leaves gelatine gelatine or or 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.; OZ.; 4 tablespoons) soaked in powdered and powdered gelatine gelatine previously previously soaked in cold cold water water and softened. softened. sugar with Beat Beat 66 egg egg whites whites stiffiy, stiffly, sprinkling sprinkling them them lightly lightly with.sugar fill the cream' and and fill when when firm. finn. Add Add them them rapidly rapidly to to the the pastry pastry cream, the using aa cream, using Saint-Honor6 with of the inside inside of the Saint-Honoré with the the resulting resulting cream, nozzle. fluted and aa large, forcing forcing bag bag and large, fiuted nozzle.

Sagowith withred red wine wine@ussian (Russiancookery). cookery).sAcou SAGOUAU AU vIN VINRoUGE ROUGE Sago drain 2 minutes, (9 for sago g. oz.,ltcups) 250 Blanch 250 g. (9 OZ., 1 cups) sago for 2 minutes, drain and and Blanch cool. cool. Cook Cook in in aa saucepan saucepan with with I1litre litre (lf (I~ pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) oz., ]cup) red red Bordeaux Bordeauxwine, wine, 100 100g.g. (4 (40z., 1cup)sugar, sugar, aasmall small pinch pinch of of salt, salt, the the peel peel of of I~ lemon lemon and and aa good good pinch pinch of of powdered powdered cinammon. cinammon. Simmer Simmer over overlow low heat heat for for 25 25 minutes, minutes, discard discard the the lemon lemon rind rind and and serve. serve. The The dish dish can can also also be be made made with with white white wine, and and served served cold. cold. wine,

t

SAGUET (LA (LA MNRE) MËRE) - SEE See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF SAGUET BYGONE DAYS. DA YS. BYGONE SAIGNEUX -- French French butchery butchery term tenn for for the the neck neck of of veal veal or or SAIGNEUX mutton. mutton. SAINT-AGATHON -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. SAINT-AGATHON SAINTE-MAURE -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. SAINTE-MAURE SAINTE-MENEHOULD-District of the the Marne, Marne, renowned SAINTE-MENEHOULD - District of for its its excellent excellent charcuterie, charcuterie, and particularly particularly for its its Pigs' Pigs'feet. for feet. SAINT-ÉMILIONof the Gironde Gironde in in the SAINT-EMILION - Small commune of which, after after the Libourne district, celebrated for its wines, which, Burgundy. (See approach the wines wines of ofBurgundy. (See Bordelais, most most nearly approach Bordelais, of Bordeaux.) Winesof Bordeaux.) BORDEAUX, LV'ines Gironde (the SAINT-ESTÈPHE (the M6doc Médoc SAINT-ESTipffn - Commune in the Gironde given its na-me na me to highly reputed appellation region) that has given controlée red wines. (See MEDOC, MÉDOC, BORDEAUX.) ,irtroie,

SCALLOPS. See SCALLOPS. SAINT-JACQUES -- See SAINT-JACQUES

CHEESE. SAINT-FLORENTIN SAINT-FLORENTIN - See CHEESE.

with (Hypericum). MILLEPERTUIS tvulrnrnnruls-Plant WORT (Hypericum). JOHN'S WORT ST JOHN'S ST - Plant with whose in taste, taste, whose bitter in fragrance, bitter resinous fragrance, and resinous aromatic and an aromatic an liqueurs times, liqueurs In fonner former times, in infusions. infusions. In used in tops are are used flowering tops flowering this plant. from this made from were made Plant. were

trlousseRoN -- Small mushroom ST GEORGE'S mushroom GEORGE S AGARIC. MOUSSERON It isis spring. It and spring. autumn and the autumn grows in fields in in the wruch the fields in the which gwws and cultivated mushroom, and way as as the the cultivated cooked in in the the same way mainly used to flavour stews. mainly has is dried, and and has In south-western south-western France, this mushroom is (See MUSHROOMS.) MUSHROOMS.) to be steeped steeped in water before use. (See

(the Médoc Mddoc Gironde (the in the the Gironde This area area in SAINT-JULIEN -- This SAINT-JULIEN reputed appellation appellation highly reputed given its to highly its name name to has given region) has region) wines. red wines. contdlte red contrôlée

(See peas. (See fresh peas. Thick soup made with fresh SAINT-GERMAIN SAINT-GERMAIN -- Truck soup') Purie offreshpea offresh pea soup.) BROTHS, Purée SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS, principal garnish whose whose principal to aa garnish The applies to term also also applies The term (see ways (see variety of ways prepared in in aa va peas, prepared ingredient isis fresh ri et y of fresh peas, grilled of grilled for aa preparation of is used for word is The word GARNISHES). GARNISHES). The (See SOLE, of Fillets of SOLE, Fillets sauce. (See with béarnaise btarnaise sauce. served with fiJlets of fish served fillets offish sole sole Saint-Germain.) Saint-Germain.) Saint-Germain. called Saint-Germain. erroneously caUed purde of dried peas isis erroneously A of dried A purée

CHEESE. See CHEESE. SAINT-MARCELLIN -- See SAINT-MARCELLIN pastry Genoese pastry fine Genoese Cook aa fine SAINT-MICHEL (pâtisserie) @Atisserie) -- Cook SAINT-MICHEL into cut itit into cool, cut When cool, (see GENOESE) tin. When in aa cake cake tin. GENOESE) in mixture (see mixture which of butter with alayet each Spread layers. 3 equal-sized 3 equal-sized layers. Spread each with a layer of butter which one layers one cake layers Put the the cake essence. Put coffee essence. with coffee beaten with has been been beaten has vanillawith vaniUasides with top and and sides the top Cover the other. Coyer top of of the the other. on top on over. (see CREAMS) smooth itit over. and smooth CREAMS) and ueam (see Butter cream flavoured Butter flavoured and almonds, and roasted almonds, chopped roasted with chopped cake with the cake Sprinkle the Sprinkle forcing using aa forcing cream' using butter cream, with coffee-flavoured coffee-flavoured butter decorate with decorate bag. bag. fermentby fennentobtained by in Japan, Japan, obtained used in drink used Alcoholic drink SAKE -- Alcoholic SAKÉ meal. wann before before aa meal. served warm ing rice. rice. ItIt isis usually usually served ing plants, vegetvegetherbs, plants, up of of herbs, made up Dishes made sALADE -- Dishes SALAD. SALADE SALAD. and salt and vinegar,sait withoil, oil, vinegar, seasoned with fish, seasoned meat and and fish, eggs, meat ables, eggs, ables, ingredients. without other other ingredients. pepper, with or without with or pepper, by or by incelJars cellars or cultivated in by being being cultivated blanched by salads, blanched Certain salads, Certain (like Belgian Belgian air (Iike and air light and out light keep out up toto keep being earthed earthed up being white capucin,white du capucin, barbe du known asas barbe chicory known the chicory endives, the endives, without minerai mineral entirely without almost entirely arealmost leaves, etc.) etc.) are dandelion Ieaves, dandelion to restrictedto are restricted Theircontents contents are vitamins. Their orvitamins. chlorophyll or salts,chlorophyll salts, bulk. actonly only asasbulk. which act water,which andwater, cellulose and cellulose plain or mixed. ormixed. kinds, plain oftwo two kinds, are of Saladsare Salads subcan be besubThesecan SIMPLEs - - These sALADEs SIMPLES PLAIN SALADS. SALADS.SALADES PLAIN ofcooked andsalads saladsof raw,and greensalads, servedraw, salads, served into green divided into cooked divided vegetable. kindof ofvegetable. ofaasingle singlekind consisting of vegetables,consisting vegetables, with the the servedwith areserved cooked,are rawor orcooked, whetherraw salads,whether Thesesalads, These cold. hotor orcold. roast.hot wast, for Dressingsfor AssAIsoNNErr,mNrs - -Dressings plainsalads. salads. ASSAISONNEMENTS forplain Dressingsfor Dressings

Saint-Honoré Saint-HonorO

pastryParisian pastryofParisian speciality of Cake,aaspeciality SAINT-HONORÉ SAINT-HONORE -- Cake, patron saint saint thepatron Honor6, the Saint Honoré, memoryof ofSaint cook s, so socalled called ininmemory cooks, of pastry-cooksand bakers. andbakers. ofpastry-cooks 785 785

SALAD

(Ro bert Carrier't Green Greensalad sai ad (Robert Carrier)

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SALAD SALAD plain plain salads salads are are made made with with oil, oil, mustard, mustard, wine wine vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and pepper. pepper. These These are are generally generally known known as as vinaigrette. vinaigrette. They They and may also also be be seasoned seasoned in in the the ways ways shown shown below: below: may Anchovy-- For For celery, celery, endives endives or orcooked cooked vegetables. vegetables. Anchovy Take 22 de-salted de-salted anchovy anchovy fillets fillets and and rub rub through through aa sieve. sieve. Take Put them them in in the the salad salad dish dish and and add add oil, oil, vinegar vinegar and and pepper. pepper. Put Cream-- For For cabbage cabbage and and romaine romaine (cos) (cos) lettuces. lettuces. Cream tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) fresh fresh cream, cream, not not too too Mix 44 tablespoons Mix juice)' Add thick, with with I1teaspoon teaspoon wine wine vinegar vinegar (or (or lemon lemonjuice). Add salt salt thick, and pepper. pepper. and Indian -- For For cooked cooked vegetables. vegetables. Indian Cook I1 tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped onion onion in in I1 tablespoon tablespoon Cook oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with I1 teaspoon teaspoon curry curry powder. powder. Add Add oil, lemon lemon oil. juice, crushed garlic. juice, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and aa little littlecrushed garlic. Gasconne -- For For curly curly and and other other endives. endives. Gasconne Marseillaise with with the the addition addition of of crusts crusts rubbed with with As for for Marseillaise As garlic. garlic. Bacon fat fat -- For For 'wild' chicory, red cabbage, cabbage, corn salad, Bacon dandelion. dandelion. Render down 100 g. (4 o2.,6 oz., 6 slices) diced bacon. Pour the Render the salad, which which has been set in a hot salad dish and fat on the fat and pepper. pepper. Add Add I1 tablespoon vinegar seasoned with salt and heated in in the the frying frying pan. heated and other chicory and MarseiIJaise -- For early endive, endive, 'wild' chicory Marseillaise endives. clove of garlic in the salad bowl; add oil, vinegar, Crush a clove salt and pepper. pepper. salt in cut in celeriac eut Mustard cream cooked celeriac raw and and cooked For raw Mustard cream -- For julienne, and endives. table(3 tablespoons) mustard with 44 tabletablespoons (3 Mix 22 tablespoons lemon spoons (5 few drops drops lemon (5 tablespoons) add aa few tablespoons) fresh cream; add juice, and salt and pepper. Rémoulade -- For ail cooked. all salads, raw or cooked. R6moulade yolks. Put Put Rub through aa sieve, or egg yolks. crush, 3 hard-boiled egg or crush, with oil, oil, in the salad mayonnaise, with as for for mayonnaise, blend, as and blend, salad bowl bowl and in the vinegar, salt and pepper. Paprika -- For celery for cooked cooked vegetables. or for celery or salad Bake an ad in the the sai Put itit in it' Put chop it. oven and and chop in the the oyen onion in an onion bowl and add paprika. and paprika. salt and vinegar, salt add oil, oil, vinegar, (zucchini), Tomato juice -- For marrows (zucchini), baby marrows For cooked cooked baby Tomato juice potatoes, etc. artichokes, etc. potatoes, Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes, the Rub Boil down down the fine sieve. sieve. Boil through aa fine raw tomatoes Rub 22 raw tomatoes through pepper. juice by and pepper. salt and vinegar, salt oil, vinegar, add oil, by halfand halfand add Note for ail all best for oil isis the the best Olive oil of salads. salads. Olive on the the seasoning seasoning of Note on by te, by salads. taste, to tas according to replaced, according be replaced, nevertheless be It can can nevertheless salads. It aa good oil. good nut nut or or vegetable vegetable oil. juice, verj Wine negar ma y also uice, verjuice, lemon juice, by lemon replaced by be replaced also be vinegar may Wine vi or vinegar. cider vinegar. or eider

gf,een Complementary Complementary garnishes garnisbes for for plain plain salads sa lads -- For For green salads salads or or salads salads in in season, season, the the most most usual usual garnishes garnishes are are aromatic aromatic herbs, herbs, such such as as chervil, chervil, chives, chives, tarragon, tarragon, parsley parsley and and savory. savory. These These herbs herbs are are used used coarsely coarsely chopped, chopped, or or the the leaves leaves are are picked picked from from the the stems stems and and used used whole. whole. garnish to also used are vegetables The The following following herbs herbs and and vegetables are also used to garnish plain plain salads, salads, raw raw or or cooked: cooked: Beetroot, Beetroot, baked baked in in the the oven, oyen, peeled, peeled, cut eut into into rounds, rounds, in in dice dice caperq whole or or in in aa julienne; julienne; capers, whole or or chopped;. chopped; crusts crusts of of bread bread gherkins, vinaigrette; with garlic rubbed rubbed with with garlic and and seasoned seasoned with vinaigrette; gherkins, rowds,iulienne whole, who le, in in dice, dice, rounds, julienne ot or chopped; chopped; borage borage flowers, flowers, or nasturtiums nasturtiums or or violets; violets; hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs cut eut in in halves halves or 'quarters, or chopped; peeled tomatoes cut in thin slices or quarters, or chopped; peeled tomatoes eut in thin slices or slicnsiniulienne quarters; quarters; truffies, truffles, raw raw or or cooked, cooked, cut eut in in thin thin slices in julienne or or large large dice. dice. (A SERVIR cnurs) ssnun CRUES)sIMPLES (À sALADEs SIMPLES Raw Raw salads. salads. SALADES

Dressing: Dressing:

cream Mustard cream (Barbe du capucin) Mustard du capucin) 'Wild' chicory (Barbe 'Wild' chicory

celery....................... . Chopped celery in sticks sticks....................... . Celery in Celery Celeriac ................................ . Celeriac endive............... . or other other endive Curly or Curly

Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Rimoulade Rémoulade cream Mustard cream Mustard (with Vinaigrette (with Vinaigrette garlic-rubbed crust), crust), garlic-rubbed fat. Bacon fat. Rdmoulade, Bacon Rémoulade, or Vinaigrette or grated........ . Vinaigrette Kohl-rabi, coarsely grated Mayonnaise Mayonnaise fat, Bacon fat, Rimoulade, Bacon cabbage,cttiniulienne Red cabbage, Rémoulade, eut in julienne Vinaigrette or Vinaigrette or (the tender parts, cabbage (the Green cabbage Parts, cutinjulienne) eut in julienne) ...... .......... ..... left to to and left in rounds rounds and cut in Cucumber eut Cucumber in salt salt ........................ stand in stand Cress .................................... Cress Watercress .............................. Watercress Chicory ................................. Chicory Fennel Fennel......................... . .......... kinds .................. all kinds Lettuces of of ail Lettuces lettuce ............... or cos cos lettuce Romaine or Romaine salad ................... . .......... Corn salad Corn (greens) ................ ...... Turnip tops tops (greens) Turnip .. (rare in in U.S.A.) U.S.A.) ............ Samphire (rare Samphire ............ burnet ........................... Salad burnet Salad Dandelion .............................. Dandelion parts) ............... (the green green parts) Leeks (the Leeks Purslane ................................. Purslane (the tender and the the leaves and tender leaves Radish(the Radish chopped) .................. radishes chopped) radishes Rampion .............................. Rampion Rocketcress cress ........................... Rocket leaves) (thestems tender leaves) ortender stems or Salsify Salsify (the shoots ..................... Soya beanshoots Soyabean

cream Mustard cream Mustard

Cream or Cream Vinaigrette or Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Rimoulnde Rémoulade Anchovy Anchovy Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Cream Cream fat Bacon fat Bacon Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette fat Bacon fat Bacon Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette fat Bacon fat Bacon Cream Cream cream Mustard cream Mustard

SIMPLES SALADES SIMPLES vegetables. SALADES cookedvegetables. fromcooked Plainsalads salads from Plain (ASERVIR clnrEs)- (À srnvtn CUITES) Dressing: Dressing: Vinaigrette (bottoms) ............... Vinaigrette Artichokes Artichokes (bottoms) (roundsblanched blanched inin Aubergines Aubergines(rounds cream Mustardcream water) ............... ............ Mustard salt saltwater) green) Vinaigretteoror (whiteand andgreen) Artichokes Vinaigrette Artichokes (white Mayonnaise Mayonnaise always (inrounds), servedalways Beetroot rounds),served Beetroot(in cream Mustardcream ............ asashors-d'œuvre ,. ... ..... ... hors-d euvre....... '.. ... ' r. i Mustard cream Mustardcream (cfiinjulienne) Celeriac in julienne) Mustard Celeriac(eut Vinaigrdtte Sprouting Vinaigrette broccoli... Sproutingbroccoli..................... Vinaigrette Brussels ........................ Vinaigrette Brusselssprouts sprouts Vinaigrette Sea-kale ................................. Vinaigrette Sea-kale cream Mustardcream turnip......... Mustard Rutabaga Swedeturnip RutabagaororSwede cream Mustardcream Kohl-rabi .............................. Mustard Kohl-rabi

Lettuce eggs saladwitb withbard-boiled hard-boiledeggs Lettucesalad

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SALAD SALAD (cutin julienne) Red cabbage cabbage (cut Red in julienne) (as hors d' ceuvre) Green cabbage cabbage(as Green hors d' œuvre) (zucchini) ................. . Courgette (zucchini) Courgette Chinese artichoke artichoke .................... . Chinese Spinach Jeaves leaves (very lightly Spinach (very lightly blanched) .......................... . blanched) Broad beans beans .......................... . Broad

first, based based on on mixed mixed cooked cooked vegetables, vegetables, isis prepared prepared inin the the first, same way wayas plain salad. as for for aa plain salad. Others Others contain contain aa variety variety of of same ingredients, not not only only mixed mixed vegetables, vegetables, but but also also truffies, truffies, ingredients, mushrooms, sliced sliced fish, fish,shellfish, shellfish, poultry, poultry, tongue, tongue, harn, ham, etc. etc. mushrooms, Some of these salads, of these salads, by reason of by reason preparaof their their elaborate elaborate preparaSorne tion, come come into into the the realm grande cuisine, realm of of grande cuisine, and and constitute constitute tion, cold entrées entries rather rather than than salads salads in in the the ordinary ordinary sense. sense. In In this this cold category are are various various mayonnaises, mayonnaises, chicken chickensalads salads en en bellevue, bellevue. category etc. etc. Mixed salads salads with with only only aa base base of vegetables are of vegetables are served served like like Mixed plain salads salads with with the the roast, roast, hot hot or or cold. cold. Salads Salads with with multiple multiple plain ingredients, particularly particularly those those demanding demanding aa rather rather elaborate elaborate ingredients, arrangement, are are served served by by themselves themselves or or as as an an accompaniaccompaniarrangement, ment to to aa special special cold cold dish, dish, such such as as chaud-froids, chaud-froids, ham ham mousse, mousse, ment chicken mousse, mousse, etc. etc. chicken Dressings for for mixed mixed salads. salads. ASSAISONNEMENT AssATsoNNEMENT -- Ali All salads salads Dressings with aa vegetable vegetable basis basis are are dressed dressed in in the the same same way plain way as as plain with salads. They They are garnished with are garnished with the the additional additional ingredients ingredients salads. given previously, previously, with with the the exception exception of of those those with with too too given strongly marked marked aa character, character, such grated garlic such as garlic or as grated garlicor garlicstrongly rubbed crusts. crusts. rubbed These salads salads are are served served in glass bowls. in glass bowls. The The various These vegetables of of which which they they are are composed composed are are arranged arranged in in vegetables groups, the separate groups, the colours arranged to to contrast. contrast. separate Ifthe salads are are ddressed in advance in in the kitchen and and then then If the salads ressed in mixed together, together, macédoine mactdoine fashion, they are garnished, garnished, after mixed having been been arranged arranged in in aa dome in the salad dish, dish. with little having heaps and and bunches ofvegetables, arranged. vegetables, decoratively arranged. heaps bunches of When the the dressing dressing used used is is vinaigrette, vinaigrette, the the vegetables When composing the the salad salad can can be seasoned separately separately and arranged composing be seasoned in'bouquets'. in 'bouquets'. Mixed salads with with aa multiple are often dressed dressed with Mixed salads multiple basis are mayonnaise. According of salad, and according according to to the the type ofsalad, mayonnaise. According to the it isis to arranged and and served, served, the the way way in in which which it to be be arranged

Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Rdmoulade Rémoulade

Vinaigrette Vinaigrette (with Vinaigrette (with Vinaigrette savory) savory) Haricot beans beans (shell beans) ...... Vinaigrette (with Vinaigrette (with Haricot (shell beans) chopped onion) onion) chopped French beans beans .......................... ..... Vinaigrette French . Vinaigrette Kidney and and other other beans beans Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Kidney (blanched and Lettuce hearts hearts (blanched and Lettuce drained) ............................. . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette drained) Lentils ................................... . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Lentils potatoes Sweet potatoes Vinaigrette ....................... . Vinaigrette Sweet (white parts cooked in water) Mayonnaise Leeks (white Leeks parts cooked in water) Mayonnaise 'Mange-toul' peas peas Vinaigrette .................... . Vinaigrette 'Mange-tout' Potatoes (cooked in water, cut up Potatoes (cooked in water, cut up when hot hot and and soaked soaked in in white white when wine) ................................ . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or wine) Mayonnaise Mayonnaise Salsify ............. ...................... . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or Salsify Mayonnaise Mayonnaise Parsnips ................................ . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or Parsnips Mayonnaise Mayonnaise

Dried vegetables vegetables as as weil well as as fresh fresh farinaceous farinaceous vegetables vegetables Dried gain by being seasoned while still hot, even if the salad is to be gain by being seasoned while still hot, even if the salad is to be served cold. Such salads are usually garnished with parsley, served cold. Such salads are usually garnished with parsJey, onion or chopped chives. on ion or chopped chives. (COMBINATION) MIXED (COMBINA SALADS. SALADES sALADES covrposfns MIXED TION) SALADS. COMPOSÉES Mixed salads salads are sub-divided into are sub-divided into several several categories. categories. The The -- Mixed

Salad SaJadvegetables vegetables

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SALAD SALAD

Potato Potato salad salad

mayonnaise isis used used in in its its normal normal creamy creamy form, form, or or very very thick thick mavonnaise and stiff. stiff. and of these these salads sa lads are are moulded moulded in in aspic, aspic, and and become become Sorne of Some rather than than saladssalads. cold enft1es entrées rather cold of Albignac salad. salado snreoE SALADE D'ALBIGNAc D'ALBIGNAC - The The white white meat meat of Albignac slices, black chicken finely fineIy sliced, raw white truffies in in thin thin slices, black chickei fine cut in celeriac cut in iulienlne, julienne, shelled crayfish, celeriac in aa fine truffies cut o$ in truffies tarand tarchervil and eggs, chervil julienne, lettuce hearts, hearts, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, julienne,lettu-ce ragon. -Put of middle of in the the middle mayonnaise in Put the celeriac dressed dressed with mayonnaise alternately surround aIternately dome. Surround the salad bowl, arranging it in aa dome. and salt and lemon juice, salt seasoned with oil, lemonjuice, with thechicken the chicken meat, seasoned th9 and the ketchup, and tomato pepper, the crayfish seasoned with tomato ketchup, seasoned the salt with salt seasoned with and seasoned oil and olive oil with olive white ririttkl"d with t.ume. sprinkled wfriie truffies eggs hard-boiled eggs and hard-boiled hearts and and lettuce hearts Insert lettuce paprika. 1nsert and paprika. garnish. between of garnish. grouPs of the groups between the celeriac' the ceIeriac. over the truffies over of black black truffies Sprinkle in" julienne Sprinkle the iitttrri of serving' before serving. Sprinkle lemon juice just before and lemonjuicejust with oil oii and Sprinkle with cooked' potatoes, cooked, Sweet potatoes, ALI-BAB -- Sweet Ali-Baba sALADE ALI-BAB salad. SALADE Ali-Baba salad. inslices, slices, (zucchini) eut cut in marrows (zucchini) peeled baby marrows slices; baby in slices; cut in peeled and and eut peeled' tomatoes, drained; and cooked in salted water and drained; tomatoes, peeled, water salted in cooked eggs' quarters of ofhard-boiled drained, hard-boiled eggs, chopped; quarters andchopped; seeded and drained, seeded chopped with chopped mayonnaise with in mayonnaise nasturtium shrimps in flowers, shrimps nasturtium fiowers, parsley, tarragon' and tarragon. chervil and parsley, chervil ' Arrange Surround mayonnaise' Surround dome ininmayonnaise. shrimps inin aadome theshrimps Arrange the the sprinkle the servingsprinkle before serving with Just before above.Just gar-nishasas above. with garnish (see sauce(see Vinaigrette sauce garnisb tablespoons Vinaigrette few tablespoons with aa few garnisi with SAUCE). SAUCE). 300g.g'(r(I1 Dice300 Allemande ALLEMAN DE - -Dice 1 snrlps ÀAL'L'ALtnlraANDE salad.SALADE Allenande salado tart rather (4 I cup) g' oz', 100 potatoes and 100 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) rather taft oz., 2 cups) boiled and potatoes oz., 2 cups) boiled (scantt +cup) tlpl eating tablespoons (scant with33tablespoons Seison with apples.Season eating apples. garnish andgarnish dish,and saladdish, mayonnaise. Arrange inina adome domeinina asalad Arrange -uyoottuii.. onions' with andonions. beetrootand cookedbeetroot ofcooked slicesof witirslices strips' cutininstrips. gherkins,eut Put andgherkins, filletsand herringfillets saltherring trimmedsalt Puttrimmed parsley'.Just J-ust choppedparsley. on withchopped Sprinklewith potatoes.Sprinkle thepotatoes. topofoftbe ontop garnish. thegarnish. overthe before vinegarover andvinegar poura alittle littleoiloiland servingpour beforeserving cutinin Celeriaccut Americao lufnrcllNe- -Celeriac sALADEAMÉRICAINE salad1.I.SALADE Americansalad (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce(see julienne, Vinaigrettesauce withVinaigrette julienne,seasoned seasonedwith and potatoesand slicedpotatoes arranged withsliced Surroundwith dome.Surround aituttg"Oinina adome. Putththin eggs'Put tomatoes. in quarteredhard-boiled hard-boiledeggs. withquartered Garnishwith tomaioes.Garnish with sprinklewith andsprinkle slices celeriacand theceleriac topofofthe onionsonontop slicesofofonions chopped tarragon. andtarragon. cherviland choppedchervil cucumber Thincucumber Americao .craERIcA,Nn- -Thin sALADEAMÉRICAINE saladII.II.SALADE Americansalad Vinaigrette withVinaigrette slices, seasonedwith andseasoned rinsed,and salt,rinsed, soakedininsalt, slices,soaked slicesofof hearts,slices sauce lettucehearts, withlettuce Surroundwith SAUCE).Surround ,ouri(see 1"""SAUCE). tomato and quarters of hard-boiJed eggs. Sprinkle with a few tomatoandquartersofhard-boiledeggs.Sprinklewithafew tablespoons e s auce' v inaigre t t sauce. tablesPoonsvinaigrette

This salad must be served very cold, even iced' This salad must be served very cold, even iced. Andalusian salad. SnlloE ANDALousE - cook rice in salted Andalusiao salad. SALADE ANDALOUSE - Cook rice in salted drain and season with oil, vinegar' salt and paprika' water, with oil, vinegar, salt and paprika. water, drain and season onion, parsley, and a little grated ga1li9' chopped Add Add chopped onion, parsley, of and a little gratedpeeled' garlic. pimentos, sweet *ith ult"tttatl heaps of Surround Surround with alternate heapsand sweet pimentos, peeled, tomatoes' quarters of in and cut seasoned julienne, and quarters of tomatoes. seasoned and cut in iulienne, with choPPed chervil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped chervil.ARGENTEUIL salad-. slrnDE - Season diced Argenteuil Argenteuil salad. SALADE ARGENTEUIL - Season diced potat"oes with mayonnaise and chopped chervil' Put white potatoes with mayonnaise and and chopped white ^urpurug.r, Garnish on top'Put lemon'chervil. tips, seasoned with oil asparagus tips, seasoned with oil and and quarters lemon, on top. Garnish hard-boiled of of shredded lettuce wltn with aa6orOer border ofshredded Iettuce and quarters of hard-boiled eggseggs. --Arl6ri"no" salad. sellos nnLEsmNNs - Sliced potatoes; - Sliced potatoes; Arlésienne saI ad. SALADE ARLÉSIENNE bottoms seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt and sliced sliced artichoke artichoke bottoms seasoned with oil, vinegar, and in salt a salad arranged chervil and tarragon, pepper, pepper, chopped chopped chervil and tarragon,inarranged in a salad a flour-and-water wittr endives cooked to*t. bowl. Cut.tistr Garnish with endives cooked in a fiour-and-water cut in small quarters, tomatoes cut in quarters court-bouillon, in quarters court-bouillon, cut in small quarters, tomatoes cutarranged in olives. Plaie fillets ofanchovies and and large large stoned stoned olives. Place fillets of anchovies arranged in a criss-cross Pattern on toP. a criss-cross pattern on top. sunoE BAGRATIoN - Artichoke bottoms Bagrationialad. - Artichoke bottoms Bagration salad. SALADE BAGRATIONstrips, and chunks of celeriac in short strips, thick ii cut cut in thick strips, celeriac in short strips, and chunks of tomato' with flavoured mayonnaise with Season macaroni. macaroni. Season with mayonnaise fiavoured with tomato, and trufre egg, hard-boiled with chopped and and surrounded surrounded with chopped hard-boiled egg, truffie and Sprinkle with chopped parsley' scarlet scarlet tongue. tongue. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.A n PARISIENNE Beef salad drlaParisienne- sALADE DE Bonur Beefsalad à la Parisienne. SALADE DE BOEUF À LA PARISIENNE See nEnF, Cold boiled beef it la parisienne' -- See BEEF, Cold boiled beef à la parisienne. sALADE DE BETTERAvEs - Cut cooked salad. SALADE Beetroot salado DE BETTERAVES - Cut cooked Beetroot julienne or thin round slices. Dress with into beetroot beetroot into julienne or thin round slices. hors-deuvre Dress with (see SAUCE). Arrange in an sauie Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE). Arrange in an hors-d'œuvre dish,"andsprinklewithchoppedparsley'Garnishwithsmall dish, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Garnish with small if liked. liked' rings, if raw onion onion rings, raw crime. sALADE DE BETTERAvTs A rl la crème. salad ài la Beetroot salad SALADE DE BETTERAVES À LA Beetroot as above. Dress with Mustard cream beetroot the cut cntrvrp CRÈME -- Cut the beetroot as above. Dress with Mustard cre am (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce polonaise. SALADE DE BETTERAvES A LA la polonaise. salad ài la Beetroot salad Beetroot SALADE DE BETTERAVES À LA poLoNArsE _ cut thebeetroot in iulienne and season with POLONAISE - Cut the beetroot in julienne and season with has been added a few tablespoons of cream which has to which mustard to mustard been added a few ta blespoons of cream pepper. Sprinkle with grated juice, salt and pepper. salt and lemon juice, and lemon and Sprinkle with grated eggs' hard-boiled chopped hard-boiled eggs. and chopped horseradish and horseradish s,c,iAoE BRESsANE - This preparation consalad. SALADE Bressanesalad. BRESSANE - This preparation conBressane than a salad in the true sense' ratherthan entrte cold a stitutes a saI ad in the true sense. stitutes a cold entrée rather salad bowl with shredded lettuce of bottom the Garnish Garnish the bottom of aasalad bowl witb shredded lettuce (see SAUCE) and pressed sauce Vinaigrette sauce (see withVinaigrette seasoned with SAUCE) and pressed seasoned RdO thin slices of chicken, season with bowi.Add thebowl. linethe downtotoline down thin slices of chicken, season with juice, salt, pepper and chopped chervil' Cover with lemonjuice, oil,lemon Coyer with oil, salt, pepper and chopped juice chervil. and seasoned with tomatojuice wiih tomato mixed with mavonnaiie mayonnaise mixed and seasoned with

American salad (Claire) American saJad (Claire)

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SALAD SALAD paprika.

Garnishwith withsliced sriced truffiesand and surroundwith with paprika. Gamish truffles surround peeled green and red peppers, sliced injulienne and seasoned peeled green and red peppers, slicedinjulienne and seasoned withvinaigrette vinaigrettesauce, sauce,with withasparagus asparagus tipsand quurtli"J unO tips quartered with hard-boiledeggs. eggs. hard-boiled Brimontsalado salad.SALADE str,toEBRJMONT BRrMoNr- _ Mixdiced dicedpotatoes potatoesand Mix Brimont and artichokebottoms bottomswith withmayonnaise mayonnaiseseasoned seasonedwith withcurry artichoke cu.ry powder. powder. surroundwith withcrayfish crayfishtails tailsand andstoned stonedolives orives seasoned Surround seasoned and_vinegar, separatingthem ytl oilgitand thembybyquartered quarteredhardwitb vinegar, separating hard_ boiled eggs.Garnish Garnishwith withsliced slicedtruffles. truffies. boiled eggs. calves'brain brainsalado (car0me'srecipe). sarad.(Carême's recipe).SALADE SALADEDEDE .ERVELLE CERVELLE Calves' os vEAu Afterthe thebrains brainshave havebeen beenblanched branchedininsalted sartedwater DE VEAU - -After water t:-which vinegar andtarragon tarragonhave havebeen beenadded, added,Carême Car€mesays to which vinegar and says 'They should be braised, masked with thin slices 'They should be braised, masked with thin slices oflemon oflemonand und cov-eredwith piecesofofbacon withpieces baconfat, fat,sorne somestock stockand andseasoning. seasoning. covered 'whencold, cold,the thebrains brainsare arecut cutininhalf halfand andarranged arrangedininthe 'When iiie following way (theselook way(these lookmore morelike likethe thetexture textirreofofa a following mayonnaise ratherthan thana asalad). salad). mayonnaise rather 'Arrange them theminina acrown crownon onan anentrée entr\edish, dish,the 'Arrange thebottom bottomofof which will willhave havebeen beenlined linedwith withshredded shreddedlettuceseasoned lettuce seasonedasasa a which salad.Garnish Garnish the thebrains brains with withmore morelettuce, lettuce,then salad. thenmake makeanan elegant border border of ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggsand garnishwith andgarnish elegant withlettuce rettuce hearts and and fillets filletsof ofanchovies. hearts anchovies. serving mask mask the thebrains brainswith withaaRavigote Ravigote sauce (see sauce(see _ 'Before .'9g{11"serving SAUCE).' SAUCE).' cancalaise salad. SALADE s^reoECANCALAISE cANCALATsn - - Fill Cancalaise salado Fil lettuce rettuce leaves leaves with 1I tablespoon tablespoon each each diced diced potatoes potatoes mixed with mixed with with mayonmayon_ nalse. naise. Put on on each each lettuce lettuce leaf leaf 33 oysters oysters poached poached in Put in their their own own liquor, drained, drained, de-bearded de-bearded and and seasoned seasoned with Iiquor, with oil, oil, lemon lemon juice pepper, and and pepper, and topped topped with with aa slice slice of juice and of truffie truffie.. Arrange i;;"rg" the lettuce lettuce Ieaves leaves in in the the form form of of aa flower flower on the on aa dish dish.. This dish dish can can be be served served as as aa cold cold hors-d' hors-d œuvre. This euvre. Celeriac salad salad with with cresso cress. SALADE SALADE DE Celeriac DE CÉLERJ-RAVE cErpnr-n,c,vB À A LA rn cnnssoNrinr -- Cut cut the the celeriac julienne, blanch celeriac in julienne, CRESSONIÈRE blanch in in salted salted water, drain drain and and season season with with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or A1ayonnaise water, Mayonnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Arrange Arrange in in aa salad salid bowl (see SAUCE). bowl alternately uti"*ut"ty with *iit bunches ofcress. bunches of cresso Demideuil Demi-deuil salad. salad. ser.q.oE SALADE DElrr-DEUrr DEMI-DEUIL -_ Made up up of equal parts cut injulienne parts of of potatoes potatoes and truffes truffles eut in julienne and and seasoned seasoned with mustard mustard and and cream. cream . Garnish Garnish with slices of of truffies and slices slices of of potato potato set set alternately alternately in a border. Doria Doria salad. salad. s.treoE SALADE DoRrA DORIA -- Celeriac eut in julienne and cut in and seasoned seasoned with with mayonnaise, mayonnaise, arranged arranged in in aa dome. dome. Cover Coyer with with thin thin slices slices of of white white truffie. truffle. Garniih Garnish with with separate separate heaps heaps of of pplragus julienni. Sprinkle asparagus tips tips and and beetroot beetroot cut eut in in aajulienne. Sprinkle with with hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg yolk yolk and and chopped chopped paisley. parsley. Dqbany Dubarry salad. salad. sareoE SALADE DUBARRv DUBARRY _ - Arrange Arrange in in aa shallow shallow salad ofcauliflower cauliflowercooked cooked in in salted salted water water and and salad dish dish flowerets flowerets of well weildrained. drained.Garnish Garnishwith with radishes radishes and and shredded shredded watercress. watercress. Season Seasonwith with aa sauce sauce made made with with oil, oil, lemon lemonjuice, juice, satt, salt, peppe. pepper and andchopped choppedchives. chives. FFavourite avourite salad. saladosaraoe SALADEr.c,vonnn FA VORlTE-- Arrange Arrangeininaasalad saladdish, dish , ininseparate separateheaps, heaps,asparagus asparagustips, tips, shelled shelledcrayfish crayfish and and sliced sliced white whitetruffies. truffies.Season Seasonwith with oil,lemon oil, lemonjuice, juice, silt salt and and pepper. pepper. Sprinkle Sprinklewith withchopped choppedcelery celeryand andherbs. herbs. Flemish Flemishsalad. salad.s.q.rADE SALADErrlueNur FLAMANDE_- Season Seasontogether togetherchicory chicory and andpotatoes, potatoes,cut eutininthick thick strips, strips,with with oil, oil,vinigar, vinegar, salt salt ani and pepper. pepper.Add Addaafew fewsliced, sliced,cooked cookedonions. on ions.Arrange Arrangeininaadome dome and andgarnish garnishwith withfillets filletsofofsalt saltherring. herring .Sprinkle,,iitt Sprinkle with chopped opp"J parsley "t parsleyand andchervil. chervil. Francillon Japanese salad. salad. saraDE SALADE FRANCILLoN, FRANCILLON, DITE DITE Francillon_or. orJapanese JApoNArsE JAPONAISE- - Mix Mixan anequal equalpart part ofofpotatoes potatoes marinated marinated inin chablis Chablisand andmussels musselscooked cookedasasfor forMissers Musselsd àralamariniire marinière(si (see MUSSEL), MUSSEL),with withcelery. celeryArrange . Arrangeininthe theshape shapeofofa acalon) caloltedede savant savant('wise ('wiseman's man'sskull skullcap'). cap')Garnish . Garnishwith withsliced slicedtruffies. truffies. This Thissalad saladisisusually usuallyserved servedunder underthe thename nameofofJapanese Japanese salad. salad.

790 790

Salad Dubarry (Cfaire) Salad Dubarry (C/alre)

Fruit FRUlTS - Fruit salads come into the Fruitsalad. salad.SALADE DE DE FRUrrs - Fruit salads come into the category sweet dishes that of salads. They are 'ALADE categoryofofsweet dishesrather ratherthan than that ofsalads. They are seasoned ORANGE, Orange seasonedwith withsugar sugarand anda aliqueur. liqueur. (See (See ORANGE, Oiange salad.) salad.) Certain but without liqueur, are Certain fruits fruitsmade made into intoaasalad, salad, but without liqueur, are served goose and duck. servedas asan anaccompaniment accompanimenttotogame, game, goose and duck. Imperia white lettuce Imperia salad. salad. SALADE s^.raoeIMPÉRJA - _Choose bhoose white lettuce each with a mixture of asparagus leaves, leaves, regular regular in inshape. shape.Fill Fill'*rpERr,^ each with a mixture of asparagus tips in shallow glass tips and and truffies. truffies. Arrange Arrange flower flower fashion fashion in shallow gilss bowls. bowls. - Made of equal parts of Italian Italian salado salad. SAI.ADE sar,*oE ITALIENNE TTALTENNE _ Made of equal parts of the turnips and potatoes, cut the following following ingredients: ingredients: carrots, carrots, turnips and iotatoes, cut in shaped with cutter, diced in dice dice or or -shaped with aa small small vegetable vegitable cutter, diced asparagus Garnish with asparagus tips, tips, peas. peas. Mix Mix with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Garniitr with olives and capers. fillets fillets of of anchovies, anchovies, tomatoes, tomatoes, stoned stoned olives and Surround quartered hard-boiled Sprinkle"up"r.. with Surround with with quartered hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Sprinkle with chopped chopped chervi!. chervil. can be set in aspic. This salad This salad can be set in aspic. Japanese JAPONAISE - Francillon salad is Japanese salado salad. SALADE sar.rDE JApoNArsn - Franciilon sarad is often known under In Japan this salad is made often known under this this name. name. In Japan this salad is made with chrysanthemum chrysanthemum flowers . with fl owers. There is is also also a salad known as 'Japanese' which consists of There a salad known as 'Japanese' which consists of pineapple, oranges oranges and tomatoes eut in pieces, seasoned with pineapple, and tomatoes in pieces, seasoned with lem on juice, juice, arranged arranged in a salad"ui bowl and sprinkled with lemon in a salad hearts.and sprinkled with soured cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with lettucebowi soured with lettuce hearts. Lobster salad. salado SALADE DE HOMARD _ - Line the bottom of a Lobster seraoe DE HoMARD Line the bottom of a seasoned with oil salad bowl bowl with with a layer of shredded lettuce, salad a layer of shredded lettuce, seasoned with oil and vinegar vinegar and and arranged in a dome. On top of this set the and arranged in a dome. topinto of this the flesh of of the the lobster lobster claws, shelled andOneut largesetdice, flesh claws, shelled and cut into large dice, seasoned with oil and vinegar. Add the rest of the lobster seasoned with oil and vinegar. Add the rest of the-lobstei meat, sliced sliced and seasoned with vinaigrette. Sprinkle with meat, and seasoned with vinaigrette. Sprinkle with chopped chervil and tarragon. Garnish with quartered hardchopped chervil and tarragon. Garnish with quartered hardboiled eggs eggs and lettuce hearts. boiled and lettuce hearts. Spiny Iobster lobster salad. SALADE DE LANGOUSTE - Like Lobster spiny salad. saraoE DE LANGousrE salad, but made with the flesh of spiny lobster.- Like Lobster salad,but made with the flesh of spiny lobster. Maharajah salad. SALADE MAHARADJAH - Season rice l\tahalajah salad. s,qr,c.DE MAHARADJAH _ Season rice cookedinin salted water with oil, vinegar, curry and salt. Mix cooked salted water with oil, vinegar, curry and salt. Mix with crab flesh cut in dice. Surround with diced celeriac, with crab flesh cut in dice. surround with cereriac, blanched and seasoned, diced courgettes, diced blanched and blanched and seasoned, diced courgettes, blanched and seasoned, and quartered tomatoes. Sprinkle with chopped seasoned, and quartered tomatoes. Sprinkte with chopped egg yolk and chives. egg yolk and chives. Mikado salado SALADE MIKADO - Mix diced potatoes with Mikado salad. salq,oE MTKADo _ Mix diced potatoes with shrimps. Bind together with mayonnaise flavoured with soya shrimps. Bind together with mayonnaise flavoured with sova sauce.

sauce.

Garnish the top of the salad with small chrysanthemum Garnish the top of the with small petais, blanched, drained salad and seasoned withchrysanthemum oil, lem on juice, petals, blanched, drained and seasoned with oil,lemon juice,

SALAD salt and pepper. Surround with a border of sweet pimentos,

sartandrypi:Ls"o.',,:o#:JxH"t",'3trJ:iJ3"j'i'li'l1l'?i; peeled and cut in julienne, and diced tomatoes. Sprinkle with and cut rnJwrc oeeled chopped chervil.

;tffi3;rfi#l. SALADE NIÇOISE - Mix equal parts diced Niçoise salad_ - yf.i:;1t#5f::i NIqorsE ,n"oo'

potatoes and French beans. Season with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Mix with anchovy fillets, olives and capers. Garnish cn chopped chervil and wtn with with quartered tomatoes. Sprinkle SPrinkle tomatoes' tarragon. rice cooked'in iuttueo" Oriental salad. SALADE ORIENTALE - Season rice cooked in .RIENTALE-; slreoE salad. Yton salt' papnKa and weil drained, with oil, vinegar, salt, paprika salted water yitl:tl'-:liegar' water and *"ti?"t"ltto' salted a'*nnL'^'liu;,,0;Ti":ilt"it""1'; and chopped onion. Surround with peeled, diced and seasandchoppedon'on''i"?ffi tornatoel oned sweet peppers, quartered tomatoes and black olives. quartered sweet peppers' oned Sprinkle with chopped chervil. Parisian salad. SALADE PARISIENNE - Vegetable salad with the addition slrcsliced spiny lobster or crayfish and truffies, ol of addition with theseasoned very thick mayonnaise, arranged in a domed 3J"il3,T::;ffiT"5:ill^i"fi#$ mould (like Russian sa/ad, see below) coated withtrutfles. jelly and t1,::,,^::i^i"i", Rils,sran (like and mould crayfish lobster lined with thin slices of spiny lobs ter or crayfish and truffies. spinv of sltces ", thin ingredients with linedThis salad can also served in l1t-ttfr;' a dish, ail the ingredients served bebe " tr ut'O iutnitn"a This salad can also mixed, seasoned with mayonnaise and truffies, and garni shed *Juton"a with mayonnaiseand *i^.0, hard-boiled eggs and lettuce hearts. cravnsh with quarteredt'u'iioiilo'ee' quarte"a :lt:. withPernollet salado SALADE PERNOLLET - Mix shelled crayfish sarad''*^?:. :^'::?::" and diced truffies with mayonnaise. this sarad Fililargeshell-snaP shell-shaped lettuce leaveswith with this salad. Put on Fill large"*:::Tl"TiJ,?llJlll;es each leaf a few green asparagus tips seasoned with oil and lemonjuice' juice. Arrange Arrange ffil*X?:: the leaves flower fashion on ""ll"3l: a round lemon dish. dish' I This dish i'T:::lv-i; is mostly served served asanhors-d'&uvre' as an hors-d'œuvre. dish PIMENTS rhis Sweet pimento salad à i;;r6"i". la créole. SALADE DE DE PIMENTS DOUX À 'ALADE LA CRÉOLE - Arrange in separate small mounds in a salad dish, seeded and peeled sweet pimentos, weil balanced in und. p'.;J, dish. seeded salted water and d rained, and rice cooked in salted water and ""?l^"-1'Jr'.?["i#fi:li drained. Put on each mound ofrice slices ofraw tomato and .l"'Ji';;;orricelr",-::,.,.seasonwithorr, cntvt Season with oil, chopped on the pimentos 1 teaspoon chopped chives. teaspoon on the pimentos.l vinegar, salt and and paprika. PaPrika'

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u o* with g il"v artichoke bottoms, diced or julienne potatoes,u r, mixed ?T':.r^T',tliii?:':Hffii:lli. "r selnuiwith ",. "i,tsalad'Garnish lettuce "^IlTi.r". liaphael *lttr shredded mayonnaise. green asparagus tips.

left and mixed salad with dish that has rather high with sidessalt with shredded lettuce peeled drained, wellAdd cucumber, paprika-seasoned mayonnaise. thinly sliced mixed withPreviouslYtv'el'iriiater and *tPs'rt ,jli:: asp araeus white cucumber, previously sprinkled with salt and left to stand, iaio io,o t:ii::;;diri.,"-i :::Tlll;rfr1ll_f seeded and white asparagus tips cooked in water and weil drained, peeled in roundr and unpeete9 chervil'small lettuce "", into .l^.'""d hearts and seeded tomatoes divid.ed q uarters, hearts and unpeeled radishes cut in rounds. Season with olive ffi ::::'l;l"T.oJi"1lu,#'X!'-lru;n-Arrange oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and chopped chervil. Reine Pédauque salad. SALADE REINE PÉDAUQUE - Arrange tiesh cream' :t]' ",TiT:.:?l$l$:i;;;;;;;"'e*n.9.o1f, tit.JO"a made witfr quarters of thick. lettuce hearts in a crown. Coat these with a sauce o^'ll) the middle'r$: un Fill fresh top'salt on cherries made with thick cream, oil, mustard, lemon juice, Put:::lT u"o nittegar' oit and paprika. Fill the middle of the dish with shredded lettuce orXttfi;., peeled a piJce of t"u't pJ vinegar. of Rossini: each lettuce seasoned Put-stoned cherries on top. On RossINI ""iorJioiwith oil and sllepE each lettuce"alad' heart put a piece or peeled orange. iart il?J*"J"'. From going t" is salad. 'what Rossini SALADE ROSSINI - ot a ne a letter of Rossini: ,ilJ is going tor'un9 ,T:0" 'What interest you much more than my opera is the juice, you r" sard1 have just made of a new asalad, lemon [ttle for ii"r"" the discovery which l o.il, Fre,n1!-"ll1t#;t"r. Thenthrowrn a Provence 'Take hasten to send you the recipe. 'Take Provence oil, French vinegar, a Iittle lemon juice, pepper and salt. Whisk and mix al! together. Then throw in a few truffies, wbich you have taken care to cut in tiny pieces. a mixed The truffies give to this seasoning a- kind ofnimbus to vegetabre plunge Add.to the gourmand into an ecstasy.' llSil ,"fi RUSSE or - crawnsnm( Add to a mlxed vegetable Russian salad. SALADElobster mushrooms' sai cooked ad (seasoned with mayonnaise) pickled tongue, sausage, tonsue' trufiles' cooked mushrooms, lobs ter crawfish meat andscarlet truffies, cut anchovies' of'or in dice3:l'|i'.i'{i,"fil'u"ttt or julienne. Garnish with fillets of· anchovies, truffies, scarlet tongue, '"i:'h:L::li'l;l"i;o'Russiansaraf capers, gherkins, etc. In,r,i"i,nuvon1"t':;1'-il'"i;;T1'fff classical cookery, Russian salad, seasoned with very decorated' isAlter mayonnaise, put into a domed mould lined with jelly thickand A on-to a pla'l;"U. outAfter cnoucnours and i.,"*.0 decorated. having been weil chilledon on ice the salad sauerrra\ or water' German 'ALADF. is turned out on to a plate. "-::'^^";:;lr'' "otttomme German sauerkraut salad salad.dish' SALADE DE CHOUCROUTE À Garnsn rn a ',n""TuiK*l-suo"'k'u"l:o9ktd,ll:ft dome sauce (see Y;';;;;;;r; a in piled r,, L'ALLEMANDE - Sauerkraut cooked inwtn consommé or water, beetroot' Season of piled in a dome in a salad dish. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs and rounds of beetroot. Season with Vinaigrette sauce (see . -..LADEpncxusrec6s-Madewiththeflesh sala d (Clab e) SAUCE). Port-Royal salad (Claire) Port-RoYal ir it be craws the the .rtt}ft#JJ,tll,i#;;;t;9t'1'mn*1g,crs Shellfish salad. SALADEthe - Made with flesh shellfish .ot,Y:t],: of DE CRUSTACÉS whote tail the ,i" Season oflobster or crawfish, crab, shrimps, etc.big dice' it't itsh'in Cutofthe lobster. the shellfish as weil as the claws ir it be Slice the tail '"ti'i'f tJtll5 PoRr - RoYl.t^ lobstei. Cut the rest of the flesh in big dice. Season the whole Port-Royal salad. SALADE PORT-ROYAL.Arrange on a s nnDE i;.1^ Port-Rov al salad' . t,t"ll3H' shallow glass salad dish a mixture of potatoes, sliced*eating on - with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, chopped parsley and chen'il. mav ith apples,nlti"* and diced French beans,ilT|i:'"fi ail seasoned with mayonOn a base of seasoned and shredded lettuce set first the ilt'uia-uo'"0:.?t-dlettucehearts' parstev' diced fish, then the sliced. Garnish of anchovies, naise. Coat the whole salad wi th more mayonnaise. Sur round and fillets chervilwith *rin'ctroppeo and quartereo with quarters of lettuce and quartered hard-boiled eggs. capers,ii,"i""u" olives, quartered hard-boiled egg and lettuce hearts. of lettuce *iii, o-Jtrs Garnish with French beans. beans' Sprinkle with chopped chervil and parsley. with French

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Sffi'"T;* sarad ii"*fi;fililT*T; JALATTE DE, cREvETTEs l-Ty DIEPporsE l-""'a' Au Made lik. Shrimp salad.- SALADE DE CREVETTES -:c See SHRIMP. repl.acing by_shrimpsu"d;;;;;-{JilT,i!i'iirf; bv o,:,f tir,:leoysters th;;y;;.; shrimps ;l;":ff-- '::*^':lod' Shrimp sai ad à;;la dieppoise. SALADE. DE CREVETTES À LA -Ysuv.!u wrrn oll, vtnegar pepper. pepper. sHRrMp.

Made like Cancalaise salad, replacing the oysters and vinegar and by shrimps and mussels seasoned as a coldwithoil, hors_d cuvre. pepper.{H*::;:L"-.._T"o ! vegetabre.a"o.soriol;;";T:,:i""exos-sinisatad. This dish can be served as a cold hors-d'œuvre. kt. general principle ,T"T*:1T3 s rs salado made SALADE up of altDE Truffle TRUFFES - See Rossini salad. ut"?l n"a, v' rrvD' v€gelaDles' -" i1,ar Season with oil, uinaDE LÉGUMES - In general principle Vegetable salado SALADE Arrange dish, *ru8.ulj,1l'1"1o.oler. made up garnish of ail k.inds of fresh vegetables. this is Lad T, ur ff uaullrlower - -'v"vrvr lffi: summit,with ff setinona i, and oil, the sprinkle Season vinegar,' salt and pepper. Arrange chervit und'^t:HL' pu.riryl" a restauranr rhe r-H-:l:P.o salad rn dish, garnish with a ftoweret of cauliflower set on the rugreorents :il':ffii,',X1:i1,",., of this.salad are set in the Iil"ffi saladsprinkle Oirf, i" with summit, and chopped chervil and parsley. _aa-.'vrs'r Thet"urooing, urrJir".i. ,ni,T.l1l rhea mixins, is odone restaurant the set In o""different ingredients ofthis salad are i. separate ";'flT:fl:unds' The seasoning, and thus in theWatercress salad dish in,U"a. si,-- mounds. '"l{4! 'M""UNTERE Half d half ispotato warercress watercress .rl,a the .131,:T*T.ttry salaitheand mixing, done before customer. with chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped choooed .,"""1:.lonnkled Watercress saI ad.parslev. SALADE CRESSONIÈRE - Half watercress and half potato salad, sprinkled with chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped parsley. - .L*.'av perenniar herb

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crushed. I';ln'.ttrr"'r",,'r*"L.Tr,i#"..*,ifii:r""o"ffitT when SALAD BURNET. PIMPRENELLE - Hardy perennial rsherb burnet withSalad slightly villous leaves which smelJ Iike cucumbers when ls avlfa,ble from June to November the followins sprine..11g and in crushed. i: u r.uroning. leaves Salad burnet is available fromca,i June to November and The in iitr,i, prant ur.oil in saladsThe like the following spring, and is mainly used as au..o seasorung. tender fresh leaves ofthis plant can also be used in salads like SALAMAN'DER. sALAMANDRE _ watercress. into which Oirrr., ur.*pui Oven, generally gas_ ::11"9, to glazegenerally surtace very rapidly.SALAMA~RE - Oyen, or brown-the SALAMANDER. gasinto alio which dishes are put to g1aze or brown the heated, word breadcrumbs -"uo, fried in butter, which ^-The are sprinkled over certarn preparations. surface very rapidly. The word also means breadcrumbs fried in butter, which are sprinkled over certain preparations.

a piece of charcutmade with the Petit salé - Name a for piece of charcuterie nr1t..!one. ^_P.:dt of thefor flank endot;"il, of the flank end of belly of pork on which a little first pone meathasu..nuro,nlS:l*"t:ry:7';::;":#t:ril:,il1: meat has been allowed to remain. It is left to salt fof 12 hours :1 wr.rr in a charcurcrie. light l,ehl brine and cooked __-_y with '1,ll':,,.#:,:,, otherurner piecespleces of boiled of bOiled charcuterie. ho_t orcord The petit salé is served hot or cold as anashors-d'œuvre. an hors-d,(pttvre. piecgs The term i" is ilri". also used for pieces of collar or neck,neck. lightly of collar,or pickted liehttv used in potées or served by themselves, pickled in brine and "iJ.t::,'9t irt.'r,uuinlH";;J;'.['i,o::":,iff after having been poached in an aromatic stock. sal6

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which SALEP - Edible substance, which cornes fromrrom Persia and comes persia i*lfr1;,iff?1,..:l*,"nce, and tubers AsiarnMinor, in the form of sm ail tubers 1 to I2to cm2 (t to(j;";;;t -i inch) diameter, cm .r.unloT-ofsma.ll yelin diameter, strung together in bunches. Translucent, r'u n,r u."n"t,' rl"r'' l"^:i:n ?#,"#. in 1X texture, and gelatinous inf"i'_ lowish greythe in col "''"our, horny flavour, , and getatinoui salep in ;;:H,l'l ::I,ut ftavour, the salep cornes from the tubers of various species of ";;;" ::^T{,1ii;fi orchis, taken up after the stalks of the plant have faded and rn rhe sun. Theycontai" ::,"1 , n""ru dried inconstiture the sun. They contain a floury substance and gelatine, r"I and an easity aie"ri"i i#ffiffiffiiv.11":,f;"Hii and constitute an easily digested foodstuff highly esteemed in the East. Indigenous orchil Indigenous orchis, treated in the same way, provide a salep comparable in every way withftthat of the East. Prepared as a jelly or soup. cEL6E sALEp- _ Salep jelly. GELÉE AUAUSALEP Mix, allowing to Mix.without w ^..];t_.n,julty. curdle, 1 teaspoon salep in 2 dl. (t pint 1 scant cup) water. Cook over eao low heat, keeping atatboiling point for 4 or 5 boiling^poin, minutes. roi'+'J."J minutes. Add a "'rirt',j"-?'ng /ittle cinnamon and 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tamarind or pineapple syrup and allow to get ffi 1Xt:? cold. Salep soup. POTAGE AU SALEP - - Mix, Mix,without withour allowing .":#J,0, arowing toto dl' (1 ($pint" curdle, 1 teaspoon salep in 2'i-'.., dl. pint., 1I scant vegetable.ioir."."aaT':lli3 scantcup) cup) unsalted unsalted __* r spng of tarragon and soya vegetable sauce. stock. Add 1 sprig oftarragon and 1I teaspoon teaspJ;;;; sauce.

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SALMIGONDIS - ncgodl Ragoût ofseveral of several kinds of meat reheated. ofmear Reheated reheated. poultry ,ogoVrt Reheated poultry ragoût i,is ca lied capilotade.

"uti;;;;;;;:rrr, SALMTS _ The SALMIS - The origin ,!^r:,f,: of salmis goe. goes uacr back as as far far as the Iourteenrh :r,+,1 century as the fourteenth century. lhe.ynard The canard aà ia-ltru."r.aodine la sauce dodine of which ofwhich speaks .:.11,.u"1t in his his Viandie; Viandier was a kind of ofsalmis' salmis. Sorne Taillevent speaksin wnters, however. some tr'it dish woS was tnvented invented at the writers, however, say tt'ut beginning 6116".1rY that this ;l;';'no at the

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beginning the eighteenth cent ury. Duck d ,o of rou"ri-\ilt11' "1t1'v'orr Duck à la rouennaise, oneofofthe thefinest finestdishes dishesofofNormandy Normandy xi"i"{it3:,tne "ootingirl made cooking, is a kind of salmis withred redwine. wine.InIn the same way it ; ;il;:.ir-satmis madewith ;ffi#: way it is also possible to cJass as salmis, caneton en chemise, canard sauvage (wild duck) or bécasse (woodcock) au b",'. orofother Chambertin, and a number otherprepa.att preparations birds which, on. oi'of6irll _ __..,8 X]T nnrshed in in which, before being finished a special sauce, two-thirds a speciai sauce, roasted. areare two_thirds roasted. or Cook the bird in the oyen or on the spit, for two-thirds on the spit, ,q.t;."":r'g",jt,*r'i'r9,':eq for two-thirds of the necessary time. Divide into joints, remove the skin of and j 1.. dish with trim the pieces. Arrange· them a buttered sauté : ?inTi,,ilT.3Y:' 3T,*. m ushro oms and sriced t.um..-ilJriil,"#r': mushrooms and sllced truffies (salmis being a jt1l dish that is :: Ii often fini shed off at the table before the guests, it is important ,"j,""f,Ti1".*ff lil._,:o"u"r.l,.ii,"elL,.,,,isimportanr to choose a decorative pan made of silver plate or sorne other good-Iooking metal). Sprinkle with : a few tablespoons Demi;,:Tglace i urj) andand cook over hot water for 30 sauce (see SAUCE) cook over n", ili,,iio minutes. the carcases Heat broken-up the broken-up carcases and trimmings of the in and trimr of.the birdbird "..Y"utin a casserote. Add ,t. .?.Y11.. in a casserole. Add the cooking juices dilutedinwith whrtebutter diluted wine, and a fewv tablesPoont with ""rtj"""l1l*. few tablespoons game-flavoured Espagnole white wine, and a rr;;;^::j,^l-ng^Jurces

ri*;:i#,"'^-"i\'il,H!fi',:'#';;:'7::n'i;f Ii; ;";;;";;";

Salamb6 cakes ( Maison Desmeuzes. phot. I^aroussel

SALAMBO

Salambô cakes (Maison Desmeuzes. Phol. Larousse)

cake made with Chou Db*uC6:fi,[0",I"]' paste (see "-:,ff cream n u u*,J t. Chou c n ei rvr".ii(see ?i'ii - Small SALAMBO cake made with : T;f !: i"X "' paste DOUGH), filled with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) s,

ff

- Product of Itatian charcuterrceaten flavoured with kirsch. The top is iced.

:rirtfi

rike mortudSalamis SALAMlProduct ofproducts Italian charcuterie eaten like morladare commercial sold in food shops. Dv,u The el/a (q.v.). is thar gofosnu.lr

r?l,llT*red

of Salamis are commercial products sold in food shops. The countries of Europe most renowned is thatofof Bologna. "otth".n the similarpreparations' "#'.Yr"#:11#Xf."*t In Germany and various northern countries of Europe the SALANGANE - rrntttt name is given to a variety of similar the Farpreparations. East whose nests, constructed ogr."ru.1rtl-1119*.9r

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gunl.-"fluu oured sauce (see sAUcE, Espagnole sauce). Salmis sauce). a few moments Boil Boil for.aforf'ew a.?tmis u.na sauce (see SAUCE, momenrs

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strain, pressing ail tim.e' the time, througb a strainer and first first through then and r""i".. throug'h then through a c1oth. Boil it down, add butter, and pour it " " "t"in"'Tng over the pieces of bird and the garnish. Heat, still without esteemed by the gourmets of China. They are sold in Europe boiling, 5 minutes more, serve, and serve, on a big croûton of eithereither o1g big crooton of as Swal/ows' neSlS (see NESTS; SOUPS AND BROTHS, ur"aaip."oJ'*riiT1ll:.lnd bread spread with ài ngratinforcemeat (seeR FORCEMEATS) Satted or pickled foodstuffs, fo r c e m e ar ( see F.o u n o p u irt=iu' 6i : ! Consommé with birds' nests). ;;' synonymous with and put for a short time in the oyen, or in a dish. In the latter oven' orin u oisr,.ln-;;;il;l casesurround with nj?1"1" with heart-shaped croûtons fried in butter and SALÉ - Salted or pickled foodstuffs, synonymous with spreadcase surround cro 0 t ons rried in b *t ut ter an J ;";with;;àgralinforcemeat. spread salaison.

SALANGANE - Sea swallow of the Far East whose nests, 3ste;megbt;;;;;T;:.T:l8il[1:?,#';,,Jll,?lxt*,it# constructed of seaweed fixed with the birds' saliva, are highly

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792

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SALMON SALMON bouillon and and served served with with the the same same sauces sauces as those those prescribed prescribed bouillon or in in sections; sections; grilled, grilled, or or sautded sautéed in in for salmon salmon cooked cooked whole whole or for butter, or or braised. braised. These These have have the the same same garnishes garnishes as as for for large large butter, pieces pieces or or whole whole salmon. may also also be be prepared prepared in fillets, which which are cooked Salmon may sautded or otherwise, otherwise, or or cut cut in slices slices which are are sautéed whole, braised braised or whole, sauces and of sauces in butter and and accompanied by by a a variety variety of in garnishes. garnishes. and becomes flesh of the salmon, which which is is pinkish and The flesh is fatty and delicate. It is extremely delicate. bright pink when when cooked, is extremely bright little indigestible. often aa little LE cUIRE LE PouR CUIRE couRT'BouILLoN POUR Court-bouillon for salmon. COURT-BOUILLON Court-bouillon (4! pints, pints, 51 5| pints) 2| litres litres (41 SAUMON - Put into a saucepan 21 sAUMoN or lemon cup) vinegar or scant 1i cup) water, I1 dl. di. (6 tablespoons, scant water, g.,(9 oz.,2f juice, 300 g. (Il carrotS and 250 g. (II oz., 2~ cups) carrots (9 oz., 2* cups) oz.,2f parsley g. (2 ll cups) cups) parsley oz., 11 50 g. finely chopped, 50 onions, both finely Q oz., (l' oz.,·1 g- (I oz., I 25 g. thyme and and 25 of thyme stalks, aa bayleaf, bayleaf, aa sprig sprig of stalks, Ten hour. Ten for 1I hour. very slowly slowly for Boil very tablespoon) rock rock salt. salt. Boil tablespoon) (l* teaspoons) 10e. 01 add lOg. offthe before taking it off the heat add minutes before cool before before sieve and and cool fine sieve peppercorns. through aa fine peppercorns. Strain Strain through using. Place the the court-bouillon. Place To whole salmon salmon in in aa courl-bouillon. cook aa whole To cook courtwith cold cold courtsalmon on the grid of the the fish-kettle. Cover with the grid point. Skim, turn the the Skim, turn bouillon. Bring the to boiling point. up to the liquid up boiling. heat very low, and without boiling. it poach without and let il The côtelettes cbtelettes To court-bouillon. The in court-bouillon. ciltelettes in To cook cook salmon côtelettes they are are but they preparcd as are cooked ove, but as ab above, in court-bouillon court-bouillon prepared cooked in low over low put Cook over boiling. Cook is already already boiling. put into the liquid when itit is liquid when heat without boiling. boiling. Proceed as as To court-bouillon. Proceed in court-bouillon. of salmon salmon in cuts of cook large large cuts To cook for whole salmon. whole salmon. may Salmon, cutlets, may cuts or or cutlets, in large large cuts whole, in whether whole, Salmon, whether prepared with with half half equally in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon prepared cooked in well be be cooked equally weil with the the same same white flavoured with This isis flavoured water. This half water. wine and and half white wine vegetables but court'bouillon, but for ordinary ordinary court-bouillon, indicated for as are are indicated vegetables as putting them in they them in before putting in butter butter before cooked in be cooked fint be should first they should the when the the chiefly when used chiefly This latter latter court-bouillon court-bouillon isis used liquor. This the liquor. salmon in its its cooking cooking cooled in will be be cooled and will served cold cold and to be be served salmon isis to liquor. liquor.

This method method of ofpreparation preparation isis applicable applicable not not only only to to game game This birds (woodcock, (woodcock, wild wild duck, duck, pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge, etc.) etc.) but but birds alsoto to some sorne poultry poultry (duck, (duck, pigeon, pigeon, guinea-fowl, guinea-fowl, etc.). etc.). also SALMON. sAUMoN SAUMON - Migratory fish living living in in the the sea sea but but fish SALMON. - Migratory spawning in in fresh fresh water. water. At At the the time time of ofspawning makes its its spawning itit makes spawning way up up certain certain rivers. rivers. way Salmon take take no no nourishment nourishment so so long long as as they they are are in in fresh fresh Salmon water, so so their their flesh flesh isis at at its its driest driest and and least least good good when when they they go go water, down the the rivers rivers again again to to the the sea. sea. down Born in in the the rivers, rivers, the the young young salmon salmon begins begins to develop Born there, not not going going far far from from its its birthplace birthplace during during the the first few there, weeks. Then, Then, following following the the flow flow of of the the river, river, itit goes goes down down to weeks. the depths depths of of the the sea, sea, where where its nourishment nourishment consists consists mainly the of the post-larvae post-larvae ofherrings of herrings and and otherfish. other fish. ofthe The salmon salmon can can live live without without going to the sea, sea, as as has been The observed in in Norway Norway and and Sweden, Sweden, where it inhabits inhabits certain observed freshwater lakes; lakes; during during the the winter winter and in spring it goes up freshwater the river river to to spawn. spawn. It It returns returns to to the the lakes lakes later to build itself the just as as the the salmon salmon of of other other rivers rivers return return to the the sea. up again, again, just sea. up The same same thing thing happens happens in certain certain Canadian lakes where The salmon hibernate. hibernate. But But these these develop develop much less less rapidly than salmon the salmon salmon which which travel travel to to the the se a, and and the quality of their sea, the is inferior inferior to to that that of of their their fellows fellows who have have followed the flesh is flesh naturallaw of their existence. existence. law oftheir natural Salmon which wruch have have attained maximum development their maximum attained their Salmon to 11 measure from from 1l|* to (4 to and their weight ft.) in in length length and m (4 to 55 ft.) 1{ m measure ranges from from 55 to to 77 kg. kg. (11 at (Il to size at They achieve achieve this size l5 lb.). lb.). They to 15 ranges the age age of about 66 years. years. In been fished fished have been salmon have In Scotland, Scotland, salmon the ofabout weighing up up to coast (75 lb.). the Pacific Pacific coast In the the U.S.A. U.S.A. the lb.). In kg. (75 to 35 35 kg. weighing to 27 lb.) salmon to 60 601b.) 27 kg. kg. (6 to from 2~ 2f;to in weight weight from varies in salmon varies The smoking, preserved by drying, smoking, by drying, is preserved flesh of salmon is The flesh of salmon cut in chunks canning chunks whole or orcut is cooked cooked whole fish is The fish or freezing. freezing. The canning or or (steaks). or cutlets cutlets (steaks). in pieces, In pieces, in in aa poached, whole orin whole or is often often poached, In France, France, salmon salmon is flavoured (see below), or cold, cold, hot or served hot and served below), and court-bouillon (see flavoured court-bouillon with, sauces the sauces of the or other other of hot fish, fish, one one or the hot in the the case of the with, in case of normally such as: as: in court-bouillon, court'bouil/on, such cooked in with fish fish cooked normally served served with Anchovy, NanMousseline, NanLobster, Mousseline, Shrimp, Lobster, Butter, Caper, Caper, Shrimp, Anchovy, Butter, tua, etc. Vinitienne, etc. Ravigote, Vénitienne, tua, Ravigote, Cold such as: as: sauces such cold sauces by cold accompanied by salmon isis accompanied Cold salmon Mayonnaise, (see etc. (see Vincent, etc. Verte, Rémoulade, Rhmouladc, Vincent, Tartare, Verte, Mayonnaise, Tartare, SAUCE). sAUCE). Salmon (stuffed or or otherwise), otherwise), whole (stuffed braised whole be braised may also also be Salmon may and fishfumet (q.v.) (q.v.) made red or or with red made with infishfumet slowly in cooked very very slowly and cooked white plain or garnishes, plain or various garnishes, in this this way way various Prepared in white wine. wine. Prepared rnixed, the salmon. salmon. mixed, accompany accompany the Whole on cooked on pieces, itit may may also also be be cooked into smaller smaller pieces, or cut cut into Whole or the the spit. spit. Côtelettes of salmon are cooked in many ways: in courtCbtelettes of salmon are cooked in many ways: in court-

HOT cHAUDslurrloN CHAUDHOT SALMON. SALMON. SAUMON Marinate Salmon DE SAUMON sAUMoN - - Marinate ATTEREAUX DE attereaux. ATTEREAUX Salmon attereaux. parsley, salt pieces and saltand chopped parsley, pieces of in oil, lemon juice, chopped oil, lemonjuice, of salmon salmon in pepper. mushrooms. with sliced sliced mushrooms. skewers with pepper. Thread on skewers them on Thread them Coat (see SAUCE), cold,dip dip when this this isiscold, andwhen SAUCE), and sauce(see in Villeroi Villeroi sauce Coat in garnish with in with fatand and garnish deep fat Fry inin deep in egg and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Fry egg and fried quarters of parsley and of lemon. lemon. and quarters fried parsley Boiled DESAUMON SAUMoN DARNEDE sauces. DARNE with various varioussauces. salmon with Boiled salmon BOUILLIE Drainitit incourt-bouillon. cour t'bouillon. Drain ofsalmon salmon in chunk of Cook aachunk soutrt,lr -- Cook and potatoes. Serve Serve parsley and andboiled boiled potatoes. garnish with fresh parsley with fresh and garnish with fish:Anchovy, Anchovy, thataccompany accompany fish: thesauces saucesthat ofthe with one orother other of one or

Salmon

793 793 Hot soufflés: orange, strawben:y and chocolate fiavours (Phol. Nicolas) Hot soufres: orange, strawberry and chocolate flavours (Plrot. Nicolas)

SALMON SALMON Butter, Caper, Caper, Cardinal, Cardinal, Shrimp, Shrimp, Curry, Curry, Diplomat, Diplomat, HollanHollanBuller, Lobster, Laguipière, Laguipibre, Mousseline, daise, Lobster, Mousseline, Mustard, Mustard, Nantua, Nantua, daise, Noisette, Ravigote, Ravigote, Riche, (see Riche, Vénitienne, Vbnitienne, White White wine wine (see Noisette, sAUCE). SAUCE). Boiled salmon salmon ài l'anglaise. I'anglaise. SAUMON sAUMoN BOUILLI BourLLr A A L'ANGLAISE L',q,ncuusE -Boiled Cook the the salmon salmon in in salted water without salted water without herbs herbs or or condicondiCook ments. Drain, Drain, and and serve serve with with Lobster Lobster sauce sauce or Parsley sauce or Parsley sauce ments. (see SAUCE) and cucumber salad. (see SAUCE) and cucumber salado Braised salmon. salmon SAUMON sAUMoN BRAISÉ sRArsE -- Whole Whole braised braised salmon salmon Braised prepared with may be be prepared with or or withciut without stuffing. stuffing. ItIt isis usually usually may garnished with (see FORCEMEATS) *ith Pike Pike forcemeat FORCEMEATS) to to forcemeat (see garnished which truIDes truffies or or aa shellfish shellfish butter butter may may be be added. added. which The salmon salmon isis set set on on the the well-buttered grid of well-buttered grid of the the fishfishThe kettle. The The bottom pan isis lined bottom of the pan of the lined with with chopped chopped carrots carrots kettle. and onions, onions, lightly lightly tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Fish Fish fumet made with with and fumet made white or or red red wine poured in wine isis poured in to to come come half-way half-way up up the the white garni and salmon. A A bouquet bouquet garni and seasoning seasoning are are added added and and the the salmon. poached in saknon isis poached (see CULINARY in the the usual usual way way (see CULINARY salmon METHODS, Poaching). Poaching). METHODS, Once cooked, cooked, the the salmon is drained, salmon is drained, skinned, skinned, and glazed in and glazed in Once the oven. oven. It It isis set set on on aa low low dish, dish, sUITounded surrounded with with the the the prescribed garnish, garnish, and and coated coated with with aa sauce prepared with sauce prepared with its its prescribed cooking liquor. liquor. cooking the ways ways of preparing slices All the of preparing slices and and chunks chunks of given of salmon salmon given Ali elsewhere are are applicable applicable to to whole, whole, braised braised salmon. salmon. elsewhere Salmon Chambord. Chambord. DARNE DARNE DE DE SAUMON sAUMoN CHAMBORD cHAMBoRD -- Cut Cut aa Salmon thick slice slice from from the the salmon. salmon. Braise Braise it it very very slowly slowly in fumet thick fumet made with with red red or or white white wine. wine. made Drain the glaze it the salmon salmon and and glaze it in in aa slow slow oven oven for for aa few few Drain minutes. Set Set on serving dish dish and on aa serving and surround surround it it with with Chambord Charnbord minutes. (see GARNISHES). garnish GARNISHES). garnish (see Coat with with Genevoise (see SAUCE) Genevoise sauce sauce (see SAUCE) made made with with the Coat braising juices. braisingjuices. Cutlets of of salmon. salmon. corsr,rrrEs sAr.JMoN Cutlets of of Cutlets CÔTELETTES DE DE SAUMON - Cutlets salmon describe describe the the following: salmon following: l.1. Salmon Salmon cutlets cutlets or or slices slices which halved down down which have have been been halved the and trimmed shape of of cutlets. These are are cutlets. These the middle middle and trimmed into into the the shape cooked little of of their cooked in in butter, butter, and and sprinkled sprinkled with with aa Iittle their cooking cooking butter or accompanied of sauces sauces and accompanied by by any any of of a a variety variety of butter or garnishes. garnishes. 2. 2. Croquette Croquette made made with with aa croquette croquette rnixture mixture (see (see HORSHORSD'(EUVRE, D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors-deuvre hors-d'œuvre cutletsl cutlets) fashioned fashioned into into the shape of cutlets, cutlets, coated coated in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and cooked shape of in in butter. butter. 3. 3. Light Light dish dish served served as as hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or or small small entrte,in entrée, in which which a a salmon salmon quenelle quenelle mixture mixture is is put put into into cutlet-shaped cutlet-shaped moulds moulds and and poached. poached. Cutlets of salmon salmon ià I'am6ricaine. l'américaine. c0rsmrrEs CÔTELETTES oe DE sA.urvroN SAUMON A A Cutlets of L'AMERTcATNE L'AMÉRICAINE - Half Half slices slices of of salmon salmon trimmed trimmed into into cutlet cutlet shape, and floured. floured. Cook Cook in shape, seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and half half butter butter and and half half oil. oil. Drain Drain the the pieces, pieces, set set them them on on aa dish, dish, and and put put on on top top of of each each aa slice of lobster lobster prepared prepared ità lamtricaine /' américaine (see (see LOBSTER). LOBSTER). slice of Garnish ofthe the dish dish with with aa salpicon salpicon of ofdiced diced lobster lobster Garnish the the middle middle of (made of the the lobster lobster flesh). flesh). Coat Coat with with American American (made with with the the rest rest of sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cuflets of salmon salmon braised braised with with red red wine. wine. c0rsrnrrgs CÔTELETTES ps DE Cutlets of prm LA BouRGurcNoNNE SAUMoN SAUMON nnnsfts BRAISÉES AU AU vrN VIN RoucE, ROUGE, DITE AALA BOURGUIGNONNECook Cook the the cbtelettes côtelettes in in afishfumet a fishfumet made made with with red red wine. wine. Drain Drain them set and on a serving dish or on heart-shaped them and set on a serving dish or on heart-shaped cro0tons croûtons of of bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with little little cooked cooked mushrooms mushrooms and and little little glazed glazed onions. onions. Boil Boil down down the the cooking cooking liquor liquor and and thicken thicken itit with with Kneaded Kneaded butter Pour over over butter(see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). Add Add more morebutter butter and and strain. strain. Pour the fish. the fish. Instead mixing butter butter and and flour flour into into this this sauce sauce itit may may be be Instead of ofmixing thickened thickcned by by adding adding 22 or or 33 tablespoons tablespoons Espagnole Espagnole Sauce Sauce II II (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

Cut raw raw salmon salmon ioto piece is into slices slices across across the the width width of ofthe body; the the tail tail piece is cut cut Cut the body; lengthwise

(Iarotsse) Cutting cooked cooked salmon salmon (Larousse) Cutting

First length incision incision First make make a full fuliiength

Fold sm on on both both sides sides ofthe of the incision incision F old back back the the skin

Divide Oeshinto intoportions portionsand and rernove removewitl withaafork fork Dividethe theflesh

794 794

SALMON SALMON Cutletsofofsalmon salmon braised braisedwith with white white wine. wine. c0rnr,nrrrs CÔTELETTES on DE Cutlets Cook the the c6telettes côtelettes very very - cook made in madewith withwhite whitewine. wine. slowly infishfumet arrangethem themon onaadish dishininthe theshape ofofaacrown. crown. Drain and arrange Coat with White White wine wine Decorate with with the the required garnish. Coat Decorate (see SAUCE) to to which has has been been added added (before (before sauce (see sauce straining)some sorneof ofthe thecooking cookingliquid, liquid, well weIlboiled boiled down. down. straining) Thus prepared, prepared, the the ciltelettes côtelettesmay rnay be be accompanied accornpanied by by one one Thus orother other of ofthe the garnishes gamishes usually usually served served with with braised braised fish 6sh and and or coated with with aasauce saucewhich which will will blend blend with with the the garnish. gamish. coated ofsalmon salmon ià lala florentine. 8orentine. cOTBLETTEs CÔTELETTES os DE sluLIoN SAUMON AÀ Cutlets of Cutlets LA FLoRENTINI FLORENTINE -- The The cbtelettes côtelettes are are cooked cooked very very slowly in In LA

SAUMON nncJsFFs BRAISÉES AU AU vIN VIN BLANC BLANC sAUMON

concentrated fish fish fumet. Drain Drain and and arrange them thern in aa concentrated ofspinach spinach which wbich has has been cooked, cooked, on aa layer of fireproof dish on dried, roughly roughly chopped, chopped, simmered simmered in in butter, butter, and and drained, dried, Coat with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Coat seasoned with SAUCE). sAUCE). SprinkJe with with grated grated cheese cheese and and aa little little melted melted butter, butter, and and Sprinkle brown weIl. brownwell. Cutlets of ofsalmon salmon Mornay. Mornay. cOrErsrrns CÔTELETTES DE DE SAUMoN SAUMON MoRNAY MORNAY Cutlets salmon dà laflorentine, Prepare in in the the same sa me way as as Cutlets Cutlets of ofsalmon laflorentine, -- Prepare but leave leave out out the the layer layer ofspinach. but Cutlets of of salmon salmon with with mushrooms mushrooms ià la crime. crème. cOTELErrEs CÔTELETTES Cutlets DE sAUMoN SAUMON AUx AUX cHAMPIcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS A À re LA cnilc CRÈME - Season the DE côtelettes, fIour them them and and cook cook in butter. butter. When When they they are are halfc\telettes,flour put 22 or or 33 mushrooms mushrooms for each cbtelette côtelette into the the pan. pan. cooked put Finish cooking cooking together. Finish Drain the pieces and arrange arrange them on a dish or on heartDrain of bread bread fried in butter. butter. Set the mushrooms croûtons of shaped crottons of the ciltelettes. côtelettes. Coat with the cooking juices diluted on top of or 22 and'l1 or lY"'''U'_U'~, with fresh cream cream and butter added, and with Madeira, tab1lespo.:ms fish thickening, frsh Velouté Veloutt sauce (see SAUCE) for thickening, tablespoons strained. the whole boiled down and strained. and Madeira. mushrooms and Cutlets with musmooms of salmon salmon with Cutlets of MAotnn -- Cook CÔTELETTES AUx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMPIcNoNs AU MADÈRE sAUMoN AUX c0rnrsrrEs DE SAUMON sauce made by the fish and mushrooms as above. Coat with a sauce few and adding aa few Madeira and with Madeira diluting dilutihg the cooking juices with (see SAUCE), down, I af!11ole sauce SAUCE), boiled down, tab1lespoc)ns sauce II II (see Espagnole tablespoons ESf, sauce strained. strained. extra butter added, and and the sauce DE SAUMON SAUMoN c0tprerrEs DE Cutlets salmon Pojarski. CÔTELETTES Cutlets of of salmon (3 g. (3 poJARsKI -- Mash 75 g. (l I oz.) salmon flesh, adding 75 g. (l POJARSKI 300 g. Mash 300 milk in milk been soaked in have been OZ., 11 cups) breadcrumbs breadcrumbs which have oz.,lt (3 oz., tablespoons) g. (3 oz., 66 tablespoons) possible, and 75 g. and and 75 as possible, as dry dry as and piessed as

ments, ments, and and pour pour round round the the sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the cutlets cutlets with with put Noisette Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) butfers) and and put

paper frills paper frillson onthe theends. ends. -Coulibiac I kg. (2t lb.) ofsalmon. salmon. couLIBIAc COULIBIAC DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON -- 1 kg. (2i lb.) Coulibiacof Brioche Briochedough.I/(see dough Il (seeDOUGH) DOUGH)made madewithout withoutsugar sugarand andkept kept rather ratherfirm firro so sothat that ititcan can be beeasily easily rolled rolled out' out. quickly in Sautd Sauté 750 750 g. g. (tj lb.) lb.) salmon, salmon, cut eut in in small small slices, slices, quickly in butter. butter. Season Seasonwith salt salt and and pepper. Allow Allow to to cool. cool. g. Cook Cookin in light lightconsommd consommé or salted water, for for 3f hours, bours, 75 75 g. sturgeon) (the ofthe cord spinal (3 notochord sturgeon oz.) (3 oz.) sturgeon notochord (the spinal of the sturgeon) which which has has been been previously previously soaked soaked in in cold cold water water for for 55 hours' hours. it roughly. Drain Drain and and chop ehop it roughly. Prepare kasha or or pudding pudding of of semolina semolina in in the the following following Prepare aa kasha

-

3t

way: way: mix mix 200 200 g. (7 (7 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) large grain grain wheat wheat semolina semolina with with 1 beaten egg. Spread Spread in in aa baking tin tin and and dry dry

out out in in aa slow slow oven. oyen. Put Put the semolina semolina through through aa coarse coarse sieve. sieve. Cook Cook itit in in consommd, consommé, drain, drain, and and allow allow itit to to cool. cool. Chop Chop 33 hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. Cook Cook 75 75 g. g. (3 oz., OZ., ? i "np) cup) chopped chopped onion, onion, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 o2.,2 OZ., 2 cups) cups) cultivated cultivated chopped chopped and and pressed pressed mushrooms. mushrooms. Remove Remove in eggs onion onion and and mushrooms, mushrooms, and and toss toss the the chopped chopped eggs in the the cooking cooking butter. butter. To To make make and and cook cook coulibiac. coulibiac. Roll Roll out out the the brioche brioche dough dough into into aa rectangle 30 30 to to 35 35 cm. cm. (12 (12 to to 14 14 inches) inches) long long and and 20 20 cm cm of ingredients various (8 (8 inches) inches) wide. In In the the middle middJe set set the the various of on top the the filling, filling, arranging them thern in in layers layers one one on top of the other otherhardsturgeon notochord, of salmon, sturgeon semolina, slices ofsalmon, cooked cooked semolina, notochord, hardingredients all these and mushrooms boiled these ingredients boiled eggs eggs and mushrooms mixture, mixture, aIl semolina. of cooked cooked semolina. layer of quite cold. Finish with cold. Finish being being quite witb aa layer side. from each each side. the edges edges from paste by over the folding over by folding the paste Close up Close up the water before before with water damped with lightly damped be lightly should be The edges edges should The it tin, tuming turning it baking tin, on aa baking the coulibiac coulibiac on pressing together. Put the together. Put pressing it in in aa warm warm Put it the bottom. bottom. Put is on on the side sealed si that the the sealed over so so that over de is rise. to rise. for the the dough to place for for 30 30 minutes minutes for place with breadbreadsprinkle witb butter, sprinkle with melted butter, surface with Brush the the surface Brush escape. the steam steam escape. to let let the in the the top top to opening in Make an an opening crumbs. Make crumbs. to 1I hour, hour, minutes to for 45 45 minutes hot oyen oven for moderately hot in aa moderately Cook in Cook coulibiac. of the the coulibiac. the size size or to the according to according the hole hole pour into it, through through the into it, the oyen oven pour from the When taking taking itit from When butter. melted butter. few tablespoons tablespoons melted in the the top, top, aa few in sauce. of aa sauce. the accompaniment accompaniment of without the served without Coulibiacis Coulibiac is served DE sAuMoN couLIBIAcs DE PETITS COULIBIACS salnon. PETITS of salmon. Small coulibiacs coulibiacs of SAUMON SmaU light or Iight hors-deuvre or as hors-d'œuvre served as which are are served coulibracs, which Small coulibiacs, Small as above above with the same ingredients as made by filling with entrhes,are entrées, are made with cut out out with pieces or of Ordinary Ordinary brioche dough (see DOUGH) cut pieces (4t inches) in inches) in pastry-cutter about 12 cm' (4t fluted-edged pastry-cutter a fluted-edged diameter. diameter. cntrus DE SAUMON sAUMoN CRÈME gral'n. BORDURE BoRDURE DE au gratin. salmon au Creamed salmon Creamed au cod au llkeCreamed salmon like Creamed cod left-over salmon with left-over Made with cRATIN -- Made GRATIN (see COD). gratin (see COD). gratin

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fresh butter. grated nutmeg. nutmeg. pinch of of grated pepper and Season and aa pinch salt, pepper with salt, Season with Divide cutlers. shape of of cutlers. into the the shape this mixture mixture into Divide this

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on both both are browned browned on Cook they are until they butter, until in clarified clarified butter, Cook in butter. sides. the cooking cooking butter. with the To serve, serve, sprinkle sprinkle with sides. To by accompanied by usually accompanied Salmon are usually Pojarski are cutlets Pojarski Salmon cutlets and in butter, butter, and green vegetable tossed tossed in sautéed potatoes or or aa green sautded potatoes the sauces sauces designed for fish. ofthe any of AUx DESAUMON SAUMoN AUX corernrrEs DE trufres. CÔTELETTES of salmon salmon with truOles. Cuttets of are almost almost they are When they TRUFFES in butter. butter. When cutlets in Saut6 the the cutlets rRuFFEs -- Sauté with seasoned with truffies seasoned cooked pan thick slices of of truffies thick slices into the the pan cooked put into pancovered, over covered' over thepan salt with the pepper. Finish cooking, with Finish cooking, salt and pepper. slow heat. slow heat. on stceson the truffie truffie slices setthe Arrange dishand and set onaadish the cutlets cutlets on Arrange the to withMadeira Madeira to diluted with top. cooking juices diluted thecookingjuices withthe top. Sprinkle Sprinkle with Demitablespoons)Demiwhich tablespoons (3(3tablespoons) added 22tablespoons havebeen beenadded which have stock. fishstock. glace (seeSAUCE) onconcentrated concentratedfish based on glacesauce SAUCE) based sauce(see os corsrnrrEs DE cream.CÔTELETTES Cutlets andcream. tnrflesand withtruffles ofsalmon salmonwith Cutlets of the dilutingthe butdiluting SAUMON Asabove, above,but cRil'G- -As r,c.CRÈME AuxTRUFFES TRUFFEs ÀALA sAUMoNAUX cream. freshcrearn. ~~'J'~"b ~.'~u with andfresh withMadeira Madeiraand cooking,) juices or c6rBlrrrns DE garnished. CÔTELETTES variously garnished. salmonvariously Cutlets ofofsalmon plNfEs- - Prepare forCutlets Cutlets SAUMON cutletsasasror thecutlets Prepare the HActrEEs,PANÉES sAUMoNHACHÉES, breadcrumbs. ofsalmon but coat andbreadcrumbs. withegg eggand coatthem themwith Pojarski,but of salmonPojarski, onaa crownon Cook formofofaacrown theforro Setininthe butter.Set clarified butter. Cookininclarified prescribedaccompaniaccompaniserving theprescribed withthe middle with dish,fill themiddle fillthe servingdish,

of

cRoQIJETTES, salmon. CROQUETTES, cromesquis of salmon. Croquettes and cromesquis Croquettes salpicon withaasalpicon madewith areboth both made These are DESAUMON sAUMoN- - These cRolr{Eselns DE CROMESQUlS

and

mushrooms andmushrooms dicedtruffies trufres and with diced mixed witb salmonmixed cooked salmon of cooked of (see SAUCE, SAUCE, sauce (see Btcharnel sauce or Béchamel with Allemand Allemand or bound with bound CROMESQUI). CROQUETTES,CROMESQUI). CROQUETTES, Braise aa DAUMoNT - - Braise DESAUMON sAUMoN DAUMONT DARNE DE Daumont. DARNE Salmon Damnont. Salmon (q.v.)made wine. withwhite whitewine. madewith ofsalmon salmonininafrshfumel chunk of chunk a fishfumet (q.v.) withDaumont Daumont Surround with dish. Surround serving dish. setititon onaaserving Drain and andset Drain itsstrained strainedcooking cooking (seeGARNISHES). Coat with withits garnish(see GARNISHES). Coat garnish (see SAUCE). juicesand sauce(see with Nantua Nantua sauce andserve servewith SAUCE). juices Theseare arecu cut DESAUMON sAUMoN- -These EscALoPEsDE ofsaJ.mon. salmon.ESCALOPES Escalopes of t Escalopes oz.) 100g.g.(4(4oz.) weighabout about100 shouldweigh andshould salmon,and ofsalmon, fromfillets filletsof from each. each. that if necessary sosothat trimmed ifnecessary andtrimmed flattenedand Theyare are lightlyflattened They poachinin butter, ororpoach Cookininbutter, shape.Cook theyare are oval inshape. they fisb,fume t. concentrate dfishfumet. concentrated of slicesof lndslices for prepaingcitelettes describedfor waysdescribed Allthe theways AlI côtelettes and escalopes. areapplicable applicabletoto"",-an,p'-',:>. salmonare salmon 795 795

SALMON SALMON Salmonfillets. FTLETsDE DESAUMON sluuoNThinslices slicesof ofsalmon salmoneut cut Salmon fillets. FILETS - Thin fromraw rawfillets. fillets.They Theyare are prepared like likesalmon salmoncutlets. cutlets,steaks steaks from andescalopes, escalopes,and andare are fried,either eithercoated coatedininegg eggand and llnp '"rrm.,.,p.nl (see Mousselineforcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). They may may be be large large or or small. The The laller latter are are shaped shaped with with aa tablespoon tableipoon or or poached in poached in special special moulds. moulds. Small salmon quenelles are salmon quenelles are used used as asan an element element În in garnishes. _ Small Large Large salmon quenelles are salmon quenelles are scrved served as as aa small small entrie and and arc are themselves themselves accompanied accompanied by varioirs garnishes garnishes and by various and coated coated with a sauce to blend with the particular gamish. They may with a sauce to blend with the particular garnish. They may have have sorne some kînd kind of of salpicon salpicon added added ta to them. them. Salmon quenelles, various Salmon quenelles, various sauces sauces and and garnislres. QUENELLES euENELr Fs DE lon DE SAUMON SAUMoN -- Poach Poach the the quenelles. S Setethem place on aa dish dish or or place each bread ffried ried in each one one on on an an oval oval cro0ton of ofbread in bUller. butter. Garnish Garnish with prescribed garnish: with the prescribed garnish: mushrooms. mushrooms, shrimps, shrimps, crayfish or vegelables crayfish tails, tails, lobster, lobster, spiny spiny lobster lobster in in ila salpicon salpiconor vegetables in butter. Coat quenelles with Coat the quenelles with aa sauce sauce that that will will blend blend with with the garnish. prepare like Salmon rÎs.otto. risotto. RISOTTO Rrsorro DE DE SAUMON sAUMoN -- Prepare like Salmon Salmon pilaf,rcplacing pilaf, replacing the pilaf nce rice by by risotto. risotto. Reast Roast salmon. sdmon. SAUMON sAr;MoN ROT! norr -- Roasted Roasted whole whole or or in in large large cuts. Whole salmon are are most often stuffed. stuffed. Season Season and and cover cover with thin bards ofbacon of bacon fat, holding holding Ihese these in place with in place with aa few few pieces of pieces of string. Fix on on the the spi, spit with the the aid aid of of skewers. skewers. Cook the salmon undcr heat. Baste the Cook under aa hOI hot heat. Baste often often during during the per kg. kg. (15 cooking, allowing allowing 30 30 to 35 35 minutes per (15 ta to 18 lg minutes minutes per per Ib). Before taking laking the salmon salmon offthe off the spit, spit. remove remove the the bards bards and Before and il to 10 colour. Remove from from the the spit. spÎ!. Serve Serve with with the the allow it juices diluted cookîngjuices düuted with white white wine wine and and lemon lemon juice. juice. cooking Alternatively the salmon may may be be roasted roasted in in aa moderately moderately _ Alternatively hot oven. oven. hot Salmon in scallop shells. sheUs. coeurt.I,Es COQUILLES DE DE sAUMoNSAUMON - pipe Pipe aa thin thin Salmoninscallop border ofthickened of thickened potato potato purde purée round round the the edge edge ofscallop of scallop border shclls with with the the aid of of a forcing forcing bag. bag. put Put into into the the bottom bottom o] of shells eaeh shell'l shell 1 tablespoon tablespoon of of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), and and each the fish fish divided dividcd into into small small pieces, pieces, with with the skin skin and and bones bones the removed, on on top. top. carefully removed, and coat coat with with more more sauce. sauce. Sprinkle SprinkJe with wilh parParGarnish, and mesan and and aa little little melted melted butter. butter. Brush Brush the the potato potato border border mesan with egg. egg. with tin containing containing aa little !ittle wann warm Place the the scallops scallops in in aa baking baking tin Place warer and and brown brown in in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. Garnish Gamish with with fresh fresh water parsley. parsley. Instead of ofpotato potalo pur6e, purée. chopped chopped boiled boiled potatoes potatoes may may be be Ins-tead used for forthe theborder. border. used Salmon in in scallop scallop shells sheDs iIl la la florentine. florentine. coe(nt,t,Es COQUILLES DE DE Salmon SAUMON AÀ rl LA rronsNTrNE FLORENTINE - Put into the the bottom bottom of of scallop scallop SAUMoN - Put into shells22tablespoons (3(3tablespoons) tablespoons)spinach spinachleaves leavessimmered sîmmered shells butter, and pieces pieces of ofsalmon salmon on on top. top. Coat Coat with with Mornay Mornay inin butter, (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and cover cover with with grated grated parmesan. Parmesan. sauce (see sauce Sprinkle with with melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in in the the oven oven or or under under Sprinkle thegrill. the Momay.coeurr.r.Es COQUILLESDE DESAUMON Salmon in scallop shells AàlalaMornay. sAUMoN LA rdoRNev MORNAY -- Arrange pieces pieces of ofsalmon salmon inin scallop scallop shells. shells. AÀ r.c, Coat with Momay sauce (sec SAUCE) and cover with grated Coat with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) and coverwith grated Pannesan.Sprinkle Sprinklewith withmelted meltedbutter. butter.Brown Brownininthe theoven ovenoror Parmesan. underthe thegrill. grill. under

SALMON SALMON

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Salmon Salmon in in scallop scallop shells shells à la la provengale. provençale. coQUtLLEs COQUILLES DE DE Arrange Arrange pieces pieces of of salmon, salmon, truffies, stoned stoned olives olives and and mushrooms mushroomsin inscallop scallop shells. shells. Cover Cover trufles, with Provengale Provençale sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with pale pale golden and aa little little olive olive oil. oil. Brown Brown in in the the oven oven golden breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and or orunder underthe the grill, grill, then then place place on on each each scallop scallop an an anchovy anchovy fillet fillet curved curved into into aa ring, ring, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Salmon Salmon in in scallop scaUopshells sbellswith withshrimps. shrimps. coQLnLLEs COQUILLES DB DE SAUMoN SAUMON AL;x AUX cREvETTEs CREVETTES - Arrange Arrange pieces pieces of of salmon salmon and and shelled shelled shrimps shrimps in in scallop scallop shells. shells. Coat Coat with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) finished finished off off with with Shrimp Shrimp butter buller (see (see BUTTER)' BUTTER). SAUCE) Sprinkle with with Parmesan Parmesan and and aa little little melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in in Sprinkle the the oven oven or or under under the the grill. grill. Salmon Salmon in in scallop scallop shells sbells ià la la Victoria. Victoria. coQUILLES COQUILLES DE DE SAUMoN SAUMON À LA vtcronrl VICTORIA - Arrange Arrange pieces pieces of of salmon, salmon, truffies truffles and and A mushrooms mushrooms in in scallop scallop shells. shells. Coat Coat with with Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with Parmesan Parmesan and and melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown SAUCE). trufle heated in the oven, inthe oven, and place place aa slice slice of oftruffle heated in in butter butter on on each each scallop. scallop. Skewered salmon salmon. BRocHETTEs BROCHETTES DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON -- Thread Thread pieces pieces Skewered of salmon cut in squares squares on metal skewers, skewers, alternating alternating them them of with with mushrooms cut in in thick truck slices slices and tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Se as on with salt and pepper, pepper, pour pour over melted butter, coat coat Season with freshly freshly made made breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and grill grill gently' gently. Set Set on on a serving dish. dish. Sprinkle with with half-melted half-melted Mdite Mâitre separately. hotel butter d d'hotel buller (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) or serve this butter separately. Garnish with fresh parsley and surround Garnish surround with with half half slices s!ices of of lemon cut with fluted edges. lemon cut sauces recommended One of the the sauces recommended for for grilled grilled fish fish may may be be salmon. separately with grilled served separately grilled skewered salmon. FRJTES DE SAUMON SAUMoN FRITES Fried skewered salmon. Fried salmon. BRocIIETTES BROCHETTES DE threading Sauti the pieces of salmon lightly in butter before threading Sauté and in egg and on the skewers. Coat the skewered pieces them on pieces in breadcrumbs. quarters parsley and quarters garnish with fried parsley Fry in deep deep fat and garnish sauce other sauce or any any other sauce, or with Tomato Tomato sauce, lemon. Serve Serve with of lemon. of SAUCE). fish (see SA appropriate UCE). appropriate to fish salmon sAUMoN -- Rub cooked salmon sourrlE DE SAUMON Salmon soufllé. sorff6. SOUFFLÉ Salmon (see SAUCE), bind SAUCE), bind Bbcharnel sauce (see mixwith sieve, mix through a sieve, with Béchamel in at at the the yolks and egg whites folded in stifly beaten egg and stiffiy egg yolks with egg (See SOUFFLÉ.) SOUFFLE.) moment. (See last moment. last DE SAUMON sAUMoN ÀA DARNE DE I'am6ricaine. DARNE steak à l'américaine. Salmon steak Salmon (2! to inches) to 33 inches) cm. (2t to 88 cm. slice about about 66 to Cut aa slice L'rMERrclrNs -- Cut L'AMÉRICAINE salt and and with salt Season with salmon. Season the salmon. the middle middle of the from the thick from thick pan on of 22 layer of on aa layer sautd pan pepper. Cook in aa buttered buttered sauté Cook in pepper. (q.v.) of raw root root of raw (3 tablespoons) matignon (q.v.) tablespoons) matignon tablespoons (3 tablespoons butter. melted butter. tablespoons (1 with 44 tablespoons vegetables. Sprinkle Sprinkle with vegetables. cup) melted @cup) pan and continue and continue good heat. the pan Cover the heat. Cover cooking over over aa good Begin cooking Begin but with the the butter, butter, but frequently with in the basting frequently the oven, oven, basting cooking in cooking liquid. adding any any liquid. without adding without (see l'arnbricaine (see Lobster àd l'américaine as for for Lobster lobster as Prepare aa spiny spiny lobster Prepare the slice the and slice the tail tail and shell from from the the shell Remove the LOBSTER). Remove LOBSTER). slices. into 66 equal equal slices. latter into latter the f1esh flesh out ail all the take out and take in half, half,longways, the body Split the body in Split longways, and to itit an an flesh, add add to Dice trus this flesh, shells. Dice half shells. the half breaking the without breaking without with 1I bind with and bind diced mushrooms mushrooms and quantity of cooked, diced of cooked, equal quantity equal sauce Allemande sauce (6 tablespoons, coocentrated Allemande cup) concentrated scant 1 tablespoons, scant dl. (6 dl. { cup) have chervil have and chervil (see SAUCE) tarragon and chopped tarragon to which which chopped SAUCE) to (see been added. added. been the over the Smooth over mixture. Smooth with the the mixture. shells with Fill the the half half shells Fill gratedParmesan little Parmesan and and aa!ittle with grated themwith sprinkle them surfaces and and sprinkJe surfaces and brown brown tinand on aa baking baking tin half shells shells on Put the the half melted butter. butter. Put melted serving. before serving. minutes before very hot hot oven oven'lO in aavery them in them 10 minutes was the salmon salmon was which the with which the matignon matignon with Add the sauce. Add Thesauce. The dl.(1(+ Add 33dl. lobster. Add from the thelobster. saucefrom to the the American American sauce cooked to cooked scant1*cup) tablespoons, scant and1I dl. dl. (6(6tablespoons, pint, I! l| cups) cup s)fishfumet fishfumet and pint, "rrp) over (seeSAUCE). by one-third one-third over Boil down down by SAUCE). Boil sauce(see Velouti sauce Velouté spoon. woodenspoon. goodheat, withaawooden heat,stirring stirring with good

À r,e LA pnovrrrlgAlE PROVENÇALE SAUMON A sAUMoN

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Thicken Trucken the the sauce sauce away away from from the the heat heat with with the the coral coral rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve sieve and and blended blended with with 100 100g.g. (4 (4oz.,* oz., 1cup) cup) fresh fresh butter. butter. Add Add chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon, tarragon, the the juice of lemon, lemon, salt salt and and pepper pepper ififnecessary, necessary, and and mix mix well weil juice of with with aa whisk. whisk. Place Place the the salmon, salmon, very very hot, hot, on on aa cro0ton croûton of ofbread bread fried fried in in shells of butter, butter, on on aa large large dish. dish. Put Put at at each each end end the thehalf halfshells ofspiny spiny lobster lobster and and the the slices slices of of spiny spiny lobster lobster set set into into tartlets tartlets of of fine fine pastry, pastry, lightly lightly coated coated with with American American sauce sauce at at the the sides. sides. Coat Coat the the salmon salmon with with the the rest rest of ofthe the sauce sauce and and serve' serve. A t'nxGLAIsESalmon Salmonsteak steak ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. DARNE DARNE DE DE sAutvtoN SAUMON À L'ANGLAISESlice Slice ofsalmon of salmon coatedin coated in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and cooked cooked in in hitel butter butter. butter. Served Served with with Maitre Maître dd'hôtel buller (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). the Cut FRITE Fried Fried salmon salmon steaks. steaks. DARNE DARNE DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON FRITE - Cut the salmon salmon in'thin in· trun slices, slices, soak soak them them in in cold cold boiled boiled mi[6, milk, flsu1 flour lightly, lightly, and and fry fry in in smoking smoking hot hot oil. oil. quarters parsley and garnish fried with slices and Drain Drain the the slices and garnish with fried parsley and quarters of lemon. oflemon. Season Grilled Grilled salmon salmon steak. steak. DARNE DARNE DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON cnrlrfr GRILLÉE -- Season the the salmon salmon steak steak with with salt saIt and and pepper. pepper. Brush Brush with with oil oil or or melted melted butter. butter. Cook Cook under under the the grill grill at at moderate moderate heat. heat. (see any Serve Serve with with Maitre Maître dhiltel d'hôtel butter buller (see BUTTER), BUTTER), or or any sauce sauce recornmended recommended for for grilled grilled fish. fish.

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steaks Grilled salmon salmon steaks Grillw

A LA LA DARNE DE DE SAUMON sAUMoN A meuniire. DARNE la meunière. steak àdr la Salmon steak Salmon sprinkle Season, sprinkle into slices. slices. Season, the salmon salmon into Cut the MEuNSRE - Cut MEUNIÈRE hot butter. butter. fry in in smoking smoking hot flour, and and fry with flour, lightly with !ightly parsley, with chopped chopped parsley, sprinkle with dish, sprinkJe slices on on aa dish, the slices Arrange the Arrange juice. ready to serve, When lemon a little over and squeeze and squeeze over a !ittle lem on juice. When ready to serve, with half half Surround with very hot. hot. Surround pour over butter, very the cooking cooking butter, over the pour of lem lemon. slices of slices on. DE sAUMoN A t l NeNrul DARNE DE Nantua. DARNE la Nantua. steak ài la Salmon steak Salmon SAUMON À LA NANTUA it on Drain, set set it on aa in fish frshfumef. salmon in of salmon Cook aa chunk chunk of -- Cook fumet. Drain, tails. crayfish tails. with shelled shelled crayfish surround with dish, and and surround serving dish, serving (see SAUCE) which the the to which SAUCE) to sauce (see with Nantua Nantua sauce Coat with Coat been added. added. fish have have been ofthe cookingjuices of concentrated cookingjuices concentrated the fish gandshes. various garnishes. wine, various poached in white wine, in white steak poacbed Salmon steak Salmon pocnfp AU vIN BLANc - Poach the salmon DARNE DE DE SAUMON sAUMoN POCHÉE DARNE AU VIN BLANC - Poach the salmon white wine. wine. with white made with in fishfumet fishfumet made rather thick, thick, in cut rather steaks, cut steaks, the with the Surround with dish. Surround serving dish. on aa serving stit them them on Drain and and set Drain (see SAUCE) wine sauce (see garnish. Coat with White White winesauce prescribed garnish. Coat with prescribed SAUCE) has been been the fish fish has liquor of of the cooking liquor which the the concentrated concentrated cooking to which to added. added. DE SAUMON SAUMoN TRoNgoN DE GilberL TRONçoN Phit6as Gilbert. salmon Philéas Trongon of of salmon Tronçon prnrfls cILBERT - Remove of chunk of of aa large large chunk the bone bone of Remove the PHILÉAS GILBERT and half half aa carrots and Cook 33carrots lb.)' Cook zike.(5+ weighing 2t salmon, weigrung salmon, kg. (5i lb.). julienne (q.v.), (q.v.), in Add 33 in butter. butter. Add short julienne in aa short heart, cut cut in celery heart, celery quant_tty of (scant!* cup) equal quantity and an an equal truffies and cup) truffies tablespoons (scant tablespoons of (* pint, t cup) dl. (! Pour in in It l+ dl. iniulienne. cut in alsocut mushiooms, also mushrooms, julienne. Pour pint, t cup) thick very thick few tablespoons tablespoons very withaafew Bind with down. Bind and boil boil down. sherry and sherry (see SAUCE) and season. sauce(see Btchamelsauce Béchamel SA UCE) and season. thin with aa thin end with each end Cover each mixture. Cover with this this mixture. fish with Stuffthe Stuff the fish cannot thestuffing stuffingcannot sothat that the tiesecurely securely so fat, and and tie of bacon bacon fat, bard of bard

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797 797

SALMON SALMON escape. Put Putthe thesalmon salmonininaafish fishkettle kettleon onaalayer layerof ofchopped chopped escape. carrotand andonion cooked ininbutter, onioncooked butter, mushroom mushroomand trufre andtruffle carrot skins,and garni. andaabouquet bouquet garni. skins, Season the thesalmon. salmon. Pour Pour over oversorne somemelted meltedbutter, butter, and andfill Season fill panwith thepan withsherry sherryto tohalf-way half-way up upthe thefish. fish.Start Startcooking cookingover the over heat,then thencook cookininthe theoyen for40 ovenfor 40to to45 45minutes, minutes, with withthe thefish fish heat, kettlecovered. covered. kettle When the thesalmon salmonisiscooked, cooked,skin skinthe the middle part,leaving middle part, leaving When only aathin thinstrip strip of ofskin skin atat eieither end. Keep Keepthe thesalmon salmon warrn wann only ther end. theoyen, oven, covering covering itit with with buttered paper,while buttered paper, preparing whilepreparing ininthe the sauce. sauce. the Strain the thecooking cooking liquor liquor through through aafine fine strainer strainer and and boil Strain boil (scant if,pint, down; add add44dl. dl. (seant pint, 1lf, cups)thin thin Espagnole Espagnole sauce down; i cups) sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), weil well skimmed. skimmed. Reduced Reduced again, again, adding (see adding gradually 44 dl. (scant iI pint, dl. (seant pint, Ii lf, cups) cups) thick, thick, fresh fresh cream. cream-. gradually When the the sauce sauce isis ready, (4 oz., ready, add g. (4 add 100 100 g; cup) butter oz., 1-* cup) butter and When and strain through through muslin. muslin. strain Garnish with with 12 12 barquettes barquettes filled filled with with aaragoirt crayfish of crayfish Garnish ragoût of tails àd la (see CRA la Nantua Nantua (see CRAYFISH); 24 oysters oyiters fried fied àd lata tails YFISH); 24 Villeroi;24 big mushrooms, mushrooms, cooked cooked in in aa white white court-bouillon; co urt-bouillon: Villeroi; 24 big 12 trufHes, trufles, cooked cooked in (the parings in sherry sherry (the parings of of these these and and the 12 the mushrooms are are used used to to colour colour the the stock), stock), and and 44 fillets fillets of of sole sole mushrooms encrusted with with half half slices slices of of truffies, truffies, lightly poached in lightly poached in fish encrusted fish When cooked, cooked, these these fillets fillets are placed over are p1aced over the fimet. When skinned the skinned fumet. portion of of the salmon. thp salmon. portion pour Arrange the the salmon salmon with garnishes on with the the garnishes on aa long dish. Pour long dish. Arrange over itit sorne some spoonfuls spoonfuls of of the the sauce, sauce, and and serve serve the over the rest rest separately. separately.

with wrthMontpellier (seeBUTTER, Montpellierbutter butter(see BUTTER,Compound Compound butters), butters), and me way. andsalmon salmonsteaks steaks or orchunks chunksmay maybe beserved servedininthe thesasame way. Cold Coldboiled boiledsalmon, salmonq with with various various sauces sauces and andgarnisbes. garnishes. SAUMON SAUMoN BOUILLI BourLLr FROID FRorD- - Cook Cookinincourt-bouillon court-bouillon (whole, (whole, inin large largecuts cutsor orslices); slices);cool coolininthe thecooking cooking liquor. liquor. Drain Drain the thefish, dryit,it,and garnishwith fish,dry andgarnish parsley, hardwithfresh fresh parsley, hardboiled boiled eggs eggs or orlettuce lettucehearts. hearts.Serve Servewith with one one or orother other of ofthe the sauces sauces recommended recommended for for cold coldfish. fish. In England it is usual to serve co Id salmon with cucumber In England it is usual to serve cold salmon with cucumber seasoned UCE) or seasoned with with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce (see SA sauce(see SAUCE) plain, eut or plain, cutinin thin thinslices. slices. Cutlets Cutlets of of salmon sdmoninin aspic. aspic CÔTELETTES cOrrrsrrEsDE on SAUMON sluuoN ÀA LA rl GELÉE csrfs -- Coat Coat half half slices slices of ofsalmon salmon that that have have been been cooked cooked in in aa court-bouillon, court-bouillon, cooled cooled and jelly, or and drained, drained, with with fish fish aspic aspic jelly, or jelly (see braise braise in in aa fish fish aspic (see JELLY, aspic jelly JELLy, Fishjelly Fish jellystock) stock) made made with with wine. wine. These These cutlets, cutlets, when when cool, cool, are are decorated decorated with with truffies truffies and and jelly. Arrange g)azed with glazed with jelly. Arrange in in the the forrn form of of aa crown crown on on aa dish dish and garnish with and garnish with choppedjelly. chopped jelly. Salmon Salmon cutlets cutlets may may also also be put into be put into barquettes barquetres made made of of Fine te (see (see DOUGH) Fjne Iining paste lintng pas DOUGH) cooked cooked empty, empty, on on aa layer layer of of jelly. chopped chopped jelly. Or Or they they may may be be set set on on aa croûton cro0ton of of bread bread eut cut into into the the same same shape shape as as the the cutlet cutlet and and covered covered with with one one of of the the compound compound butters (see BUTTER). butters (see BUTTER). Cutlets Cutlets of of salmon salmon ài la la moscovite. moscovite. CÔTELETTES cdrsrsrrrs DE op SAUMON sl,uuoN ÀA LA LA MOSCOVITE Moscovrre -- Braise Braise the the cutlets cutlets in in an an aspic (see aspic jelly stock stock (see jelly stock) JELL Y, Fish jelly JELLY, stock) made made with with dry dry champagne. champagne. Coat Coat them, sauce (see they are are cold, cold, with with white white Chaud-froid (see Chaud-froidiauce !hem, once they SA UCE) with the SAUCE) the addition addition of of blanched blanched and and drained drained chopped chopped chives. Set Set them in barquettes barqaettes of Fine Fine Iining (see DOUGH), paste (see lining paste DOUGH), garnished with'l good tablespoon of garnished of fresh fresh caviare. caviare. Arrange Arrange the barquettes barquettes on aa dish and garnish garnish with fresh parsley. Serve fresh parsley. Serve with Tartare sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cutlets DE SAUMON Cutlets of of salmon àI la Nantua. CÔTELETTES c0rrr.Brrns os slutroN ÀA LA r,e NANTUA N,c,l.rrul -- Cook Cook the cutlets cutlets in an an aspicjelly (see JELLy, aspic jelly stock stock (seeJELLY, jelly stock) Fishjelly made with white wine. Allow them them to to cool. Fish stock) made wine. Allow cool. Coat with Chaud-froid that has has been been Chaud-froid sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) that Compound finished off with Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, Compound Decorate them them with with broad broad thin thin slices slices of of iruffie truftle butters). Decorate with crayfish or shrimp shrimp tails. Glaze Glaze the the cutlets cutlets with with topped with jelly. Set in aa bowl bowl on aa layer layer of ofwell-setjelly. Garnish the the middle middle Set well-set jelly. Garnish Crayfish mowse mousse (see (see CRAYFISH) CRA YFISH) formed forrned into into aa dome. dome. with Crayfsh Decorate with with crayfish crayfish tails and slices slices of of trufre truffle arranged arranged in in Decorate alternate layers. layers. Glazewith Glaze withjelly and set set on on ice. ice. jelly and alternate Cutlets of of salmon ià I'orientale. l'orientale. c0rsmrtEs CÔTELETTES os DE sauMoN SAUMON A À Cutlets L'ORlENTALE -- Proceed, Proceed, with with half-slices half-slices of of salmon. salmon, as as for for Red Red L'oRIENTALE mullet h à I'orientale l'orientale (see (see HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Cold Cold horsmullet horseuvre\. dd'œuvre).

COLD SALMON. SALMON. SAUMON sAuMoN FROIDFRorDCOLD Cold whole whole salmon salmon or or cuts of salmon salmon with various vrrioussauces Cold sauces and garnishes SAUMON poach the sAUMoN ENTIER, ENTTER, EN EN TRONÇONS (rnoro) -- Poach TRoNgoNs (FROID) garnishes. the salmon, whole whole or or in in large cuts, cuts, in in court-bouillon. Leave Leave to salmon, cool in in the the cooking cooking liquor. liquor. cool Drain the the fish fish and wipe it and wipe it dry. Set on a large dish. Garnish Garnish Drain with fresh parsley or fresh parsley quartered hard-boiled with quartered or with eggs and with hard-boiled eggs lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Accompanying Accompanying sauces. sauces. Cold salmon is usually served with cold cold sauces sauces made made with with an an oil and egg yolk base, such as: Andalouse, Gribiche, Mayonnaise, Andalouse, Chantilly, Chantilly, Gribiche, Mayonnaise, Ravigote, Ravigote, Rimoulade, Russian, Tartare, Vincent, Vinaigrette, etc. (see Rémoulade, Russian, Tartare, Vincent, (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold Co Id sauces'). sauces). Garnishes Garnishes for for cold cold salmon. These are varied. Apart from lettuce lettuce hearts hearts and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, they consist chiefly of vegetable vegetable salads salads mixed mixed with with mayonnaise mayonnaise (withthe (with the addition addition of gelatine) gelatine) or or vinaigrette vinaigrette sauce. sauce. When When cold cold salmon salmon is is served served d à l'anglaise /' anglaise it it should be be accompanied accompanied by by cucumber cucumber salad. salado The The garnishes garnishes most most often often used used with with cold cold salmon salmon are: are: Small Small aspics aspics of of crayfish crayfish tails tails or or shrimps, shrimps, of of lobster lobster or or crayfish, crayfish, various various salpicons salpicons ot or mactdoines macédoines ofvegetables, of vegetables, etc. etc. Tartlets Tartlets or or barquettes barquettes made made of of fine fine pastry, pastry, filled filled with with caviar, caviar, mac4doine macédoine of of vegetables, vegetables, etc., etc., various various mousses mousses or or puries, purées, various various salpicons, salpicons, etc. Barquettes Barquettes or or cassolettes cassolettes made made of of beetroot beetroot or or cucumber. cucumber, filled filled as as above. above. Scallop Scallop shells shellswith with any any of ofthe thefillings fillings described described above. above. Artichoke Artichoke bottoms bottoms (cooked (cooked in in aa flour-and-water fiour-and-water courtcourtbouillon) bouillon) garnished garnished with with the the same same preparations preparations used used to to fill fill barquettes, barquettes, etc. etc. Stuffed Stuffed hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, using using mousses mousses and and pur6es purées of of various various kinds kindsfor forfilling. filling. Small Small tomatoes, tomatoes, scooped scooped out, out, marinated marinated and and filled filled with with salad, salad, or orsome sornekind kind ofofmousse mousseor orpurde. purée. The The garnishes garnishes enumerated enumerated above above apply apply chiefly chiefly to to salmon salmon poached poachedininaacourt-bouillon.Instructions court-bouillon. Instructionswill willbe befound foundbelow below for forcold coldsalmon salmoncooked cookedininaawhite whitewine winefish fish stock. stock. S4lmon S
salpicons. fresh Madewith withfresb DETRUFFES TRUFFES- -Made sALPIcoN DE Salpicon of trufres.SALPICON trufres. withtinned tinnedtruffies. Madeira,ororwith cookedininMadeira, rawor orcooked truffies,raw truffies, pepper,oil oiland and withsalt saltand andpepper, seasonwith dice,season theminindice, Cut Cutthem

preparajuice, ororleave forcold coldpreparaarefor theyare themasasthey leavethem lem on juice, lemon tions. tions. few theminina afew bindthem butterororbind themininbutter simmerthem dishes,simmer For Forhot hotdishes, Madeira,oror withMadeira, flavouredwith sauceflavoured tat)le~m()OrlS ofDemi-glace Demi-glace sauce tablespoons of (seeSAUCE). coldasasa a Usedcold SAUCE).Used sauce(see Creamsauce with with Velout|ororCream hot made-upsasalads; fish,made-up witheggs, eggs,fisb, garnishininhors-d'œuvre, garnish lads ; hot hors-d'euvre,with ingredient supplementary ingredient andasasa asupplementary etc.,and ininbarquettes, tartlets,etc., barquettes,tartlets, mixtures. variousmixtures. andvarious ininsauces, forcemeats, and sauces,forcemeats, AIIemwithAllemBoundwith VEAU- -Bound DEVEAU sALPIcoNDE veal.SALPICON Salpiconofofveal. brown SAUCE)ororbrown sauce (seeSAUCE) ande, Demi-glacesauce ande, BtchamelororDemi-glace (hot);bound with jelly (cold). veal boundwithjelly vealstock stock(hot);

801 801

SALSIFY SAISIFY ororOYSTER OYSTER PLANT. PLANT. SALSIHS sAlsrFrs- - The Thename nameofof SALSIFY salsify,ororoyster plant,isisused oysterplant, usedLlOt notonly onlyfor forthe theroot rootofofthe the salsify, plantof ofthe theCompositae Compositae family, family,but alsofor butalso forthat thatof another ofanother plant plant thesame same famîly ofthe familywhlch whichbotanica!ly botanicallyisiscalJed called ScorScorplant of zonera. zonera. Whileone oneof ofthese theseroots, roots, that thatof ofthe thetrue truesalsify, salsify,isiswhite white While outside,that thatof ofthe thescorzonera scorzonera îsisbJackish. blackish. The The flesh fleshof ofthese these outside, two roots rootsisisvery verysimilar similar inintaste, taste,and andthey they are prepared ininthe arepreparod the two sameway. same way. The word word SCOf'lOnera scorzonera cornes comes from from the theCatalan Catalanescorso, escorso, The which means meansviper. viper.The plant was The plant was so socallod, called, itit isissaid, said, because because which formerly, ininSpain, Spain, itit was wasused used as asaa remedy remedy for for the the bite biteofthls of this formerly, dangerous snake. snake. dangerous The wild wild sais salsify, known as goat's beard, as goat's grows beard, grows The ify, commonly known in the the fields fields and and in in damp damp and rich pastureland. The rich pastureland. The young in plant can shoots of of this this plant can be be eaten eaten in in salad salad and and can can also aiso be shoots prepared like like spinach. spinach. The The roots roots are are eaten eaten like like those those of of prepared scorzonera. scorzoner3. The stalks stalks or or tender tender shoots shoots of of salsify salsify and and scorzonera scorzonera may may The prepared in also be be prepared in various various ways. ways. They They are are mostly mostly eaten eaten raw raw also in salad. salad. in To cook salsify. Scrape the salsify roots roots and and divide divide them them plunge them into chunks 7 to 8 cm cm (about 3 inches) long. long. Plunge them as as prepared into they are are prepared into water water with with aa Iittle little lemon lemon or or vinegar vinegar in in they prevent them it, to to prevent them from from luming turning black. black. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, in in aa it, boiling flour-and-water flour-and-water court-bouillon court-bouillon over gentle heat, over aa gentle heat, for for boiling about 22 hours. hours. Put Put ioto into aa basin basin and and keep keep in in aa cool cool place. about Drain and and dry dry the the salsify salsify before preparing- it ln before prepariog in any any Drain way. It It is is served served by itself itselfas vegetable or used used as garnish. as aa garnish. way. as aa vegeta ble or When it it isis not not to to be be used used immediately, immediately, itit can can he be kept in in its its When cooking liquor liquor and and left left for for several several days days withoui without deterioratcooking mg. ing. pick the To cook cook leoves leaves or or shoots of of salsify or oyster plaat. the To plant. Pick tender shoots, wash wash them plenty of water and cook them in cook in in a tender shoots, in plenty flour-and-water court-bouillon court-bouillon for for 40 Drain, dry, flour-and-water 40 minutes. Drain, and prepare and prepare according to to the recipe. Salsify in sAlsrFrs A le in bechamel. SALSIFIS LA nfcslMnl BÉCHAMEL -- Cook Cook in În flour-and-water nour-an,Q-\lV3[er court-bouillon court-bouillon and cut eut into chunks 4 to 5 cm (ll to cover with thin to 22 inches) inches) long. long. Put Put them them in in aa saut6 saulé pan, pan, coyer Btchamel Bé,cht:lm.~l sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and simmer. Before Defore serving serving add add aa few few tablespoons fresh fresh cream. cream. Salsify Salsify prepared in in this this way way is is often often described described as dà la la uime. crème. Sahify Salstfy au au beurre noisette. noi~tte. sArsrFrs SALSlFlS AU AU BEURRE BEURRE NoTSETTE NOISETTE Cook Cook the the salsify salsify in in a a flour-and-water flour-and-water court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Serve Serve piping hot hot in in a a dish dish sprinkled with with a a few tablespoons tablespoolJs of Noisette kttter buller (see (see BUTTER). Salsify Sa]suy ià la la crime. crème. sAlsrFrs SALSlFlS A À Le LA cniMs CRÈME -- prepared Prepared like Iike Salsifu Salsify in În bicharnel. béchamel. Alternatively, Alternatively, the the salsify, salsify, after after being heing lightly lighlly cooked cooked in in butter, butter, may may be be covered covered with with fresh fresh cream cream and and simmered simmered gently. Sa|dry fritters. fTitien. sArsrFrs SALSIFIS FRrrs, FRJTS, FRrror FRITOT DE DE sArsrFrs SALSIFIS -- Cook Cook salsify salsify roots roots in in aa flour-and-water fiour-and-water court-bouillon, court-bouillon, drain, drain, and and pieces. cut in Cul in pieces. Put Put them them in in aa deep deep dish, dish, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, sprinkle with with chopped parsley, oil oil and and lemon lemon juice juîce and leave them to 10 soak soak for for 30 minutes. Take Take them them out out of ofthe the marinade marinade with with aa perforated perforated spoon, spoon, diqtlem dip·them in in aa light Iight batter balter (see (see BATTERS BATIERS FOR FOR FRyINc) FRYING) and and fry fry in in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain, garnish gamish with with fried fried parsley and andserve. serve. Saldfy Mornay. Mornay. sAlsrFrs SALS!fLS MoRNAy MORNAY -- Stew Stew the the salsify salsify in in -butter butter and and put put them them in in aa gratin gratin dish dish lined line
yolksofofhard-boilod choppedyolks hard-boiled eggs, parsley.Before eggs,and andparsley. Before serving pour over overaaHttle little Noisette Noisette butter (seeBUTTER, butter (see BUTTER, in which some Compound buuers)rnwhich somefreshly freshlymade madebreadcrumbs breadcrumbs have 25 g.g.(1(lOZ., t cup) have been friod, fried, allowing25 oz.,* cup)breadcrumbs breadcrumbstoto .100 g.(4oz., 100 g.(4 oz.,!cup) butter. {cup)butter. salad. SALSIFIS Salsit'salad. sersFrs EN ENSALADE SALADE - - Cook Cook the thesalsify salsify ininaa _Salsify flour-and-water flour-and-water courl-bouUlon. court-bouillon. Drain Drain them, them,dry dryand andcut cutinto into pieces. SeasoD pieces. juice), salt Season with with oil, oil, vinegar (or (or lemon lemon juice), salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon. Salsify shoots. rrcEs DE sAr"sms - These maybe may be cooked and prepared as as for forsalsify, salsify, or orserved servedraw rawininsalads. salads. Sabify sautéed sauteed au au beurre. beure. SALSIFIS sAlsrFrs SAUTÉS slurfs AU AU BEURRE BEURRE drain, Cook salsify roots roots in in aa Aour-and-water flour-and-water court-bouillon, court-bouillon,drain, dry, dry, cut cut in in pieces and and sauté sauti in in hOl hot butter. butter. Season. Season. SaIsify Salsify S8utéed saut6ed aux fines herbes. auxfines herbes. SALSIFIS sArsrFrs SAUTÉS saurfs AU)( AUx FINES FrNEs HERBES HERBES -- As As above, above, adding adding chopped parsley parsley to to the the salsify. Salsify Salsify sautéed saut6ed à la la provengale. SALSIFlS s,cJsmrs SAUTÉS slunfu A LA r,l pRovENgALs Sauté the salsify in aa mixture mixture of of butter butter and and oil oil - Sautd tbe (half-and-half). Add Add l tablespoon tablespoon of of chopped garlic and chopped garlic and parsley. parsley. U BLOND U, SALSIFIS Salsify in veaI veal stock. stock. SAL.'ilflS sAr,srrts AAU BLoND DB DB VEA vEAU, sArsrFrs AU AU rus Partly cook cook salsify salsify roots roots in in aa flour-and-water flour-and-water courlcourtbouU/on, bouillon, drain, dry dry and and eut in pieces. Stew cut in for aa few Stew for few moments moments in in butter butter unlil until lightly lightly browned. Moisten Moisten with with aa few few tabletablespoons veal veal stock. stock. Finish cooking cooking the salsify salsify in in this this stock. stock.

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I

I

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SALT. SALT. SEL ser- -- Sodium Sodium chloride, chloride, the tirs! first salt salt to to be be dîscovered discovered by by man, man, which has given its name to has given to ail all analagous analagous chemical chemical products. producLs. There are are two two sorts sorts of of salt. salt: sea sea salt, salt, distilled distilled from from seaseawater, and rock salt, found in the earth earth in in crystalline fonn. form. Sea Sea salt salt is the the only minerai mineral condiment that we we add add ta to our our food, and it may noted that Ihat the the higher the vegetable food, and it may be be noted higher the vegetable content of is true truc of the diet, the greater is the need need ofsalt. of salt. Thls ThiJis animaIs as weil; herbivorous creatures are greedy greedy for for among animals as well; creatures are salt but carnivorous carnivorous animals animals have no desire for for it. it. no desire The average consumption consumption of salt, among among people people who who do do of salt, not abuse abuse the the use of of this condiment, condiment, is about about 88 to ta l0 10 g. g. aa day. day. Foodstuffs Foodstuffs (before (hefore salt salt is added) contain 1 1 to 10 lj 1-!- g. g. in in an an is added during cooking cooking or or at at the the ordinary diet and the rest is table. Complete abstinence from from salt salt has has not not been been found found table. possible possible even even in În the the most most austere austere monastic monastic orders. orders. Sorne culinary cullnary practices praclices influence influence the the consumption of of - or Some - or need need for for -- salt. salt. Boiling Boiling vegetables vegetables in in aa large quantity of water deprives them Ihem of a a large large part part of of their mineral salts, saJts, aa deprives which one one instinctively instinctively corrects corrects by by adding adding salt salt at al deficiency which deficiency the table; table; potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in in hot hol ashes ashes or or in in the the oven oven have have the sufficient taste taste to to be he eaten ealen without without salt, salt, while while those those cooked cooked in in sufficient great deal deal of of water water are are almost almost uneatable uneatable without without this this aa great seasoning. Vegetables Vegetables stewed stewod in in their their own own juices juices also also need need seasoning. much less Icss salt. salt. much kinds of salt salt. Grey Grey (rock) (rock) salt salt is is less less pure, pure, but but Different kinds Diferent among its ils 'impurities' there there are are traces Iraces of of valuable valuable minerals minerais among such as as arsenic; .itit isis thus thus rational rational to 10 use use this this for for cooking cooking and and such keep the the white white salt salt for for the the table. table. keep Various brands brands of oftable table salt salt are aremarketed; marketed; some, sorne, generally generally Various asthe theresult result of ofadding phosphateof oflime, havethe theadvantage advantage as adding phosphate lime, have thatthe thesalt sali keeps keepsits itspowder form, form, whereas whereaspure salt tends tendsto to that return to to its its crystalline state state under under the Ihe action of of humidity. humidity. return Other products, products, chemically chemically produced, produced, contain contain a a muCh much Other weaker proportion proportion of ofsodium sodium chloride chloride or or are are even cven made made up up weaker entÎrely of ofdifferent different types types of ofsalt salt which which have have aa taste taste more more or or entirely lesscomparable with withsea seasalt. salt.These Theseproducts produClsare aredesigned designedto to less give givean anillusion of ofsalt salttotoinvalids invalidson onaasalt-free salt-freediet. dÎet. Generallyspeaking speakingthese thesevarious variousproducts productsmust must be headded added Generally foodsluffsatalthe thetable, table,their theirtaste tastebeing beingmuch muchweakened weakenedtotofoodstuffs even' altogether-- ifjfthey theyire a redissolved. dissolve
SANDWICH SANDWICH Whenmaking makingup upaasalt-free saIt-freediet dietititisisimportant importantto torecognlse recognise When that fruit, fruit, most most vegetables vegetables and, and, with with certain certain exceptions, exceptions, that cereals are arethe theleast least rich rich ininsalt; saIt; meat meatand and eggs eggshave haveless lessthan than cereals milk. A A salt-free salt-free diet diet demands demands aa special special bread bread with with aa milk.

genuinely genuinelylow lowsalt saltcontent content or orthe the replaCement replacement of ofbread bread in in the the diet dietby bypotatoes. potatoes.

Celery salt. salt. srr SEL on DE cfrnnr CÉLERI -- Fine Fine salt salt flavoured flavoured with with dried dried Celery

and powdered powderedcelery. celery. This Thiscondiment, condiment, which which isis commercially commercially and and marketed, marketed, isis excellent. excellent. prepared and -prepared salt (for (for forcemeats). forcemeats). snr SEL fptcf ÉPICÉ -- Mix Mix I1 ke. kg. (21lb.) (2i lb.) Spiced salt Spiced fine dry dry salt salt with with 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.,lt oz., licups) cups) white white pepper pepper and and 200 200 fine g. cups) mixed g. (7 (7 oz.,lf oz., licups) mixed sPices. spices. SALT GRINDER.EcRucsolRGRINDER. ÉGRUGEOIR - Small Small mortar mortar or or mill mill made made SALT ofwood and used used for for grinding grinding rock rock salt salt to to powder. powder. wood and of SALTING. sALAIsoN SALAISON -- Operation Operation which which consists consists of of treating treating SALTING. meat, fish fish and and various various other other substances substances with with salt, salt, or or of of meat, immersing them them in in brine, brine, to to preserve preserve them them for for a long long time. time. immersing (See (See BRINE.) BRINE.) Meats and and other other foodstuffs foodstuffs which which have have been been treated treated in in this this Meats are called caUed salaisons salaisons in in French. French. way are way TUB. seroln SALOIR -- Large Large bucket bucket in in which which pieces pieces of of SALTING TUB. meat are are put put to to be be pickled pickled in in brine. meat salting tubs. There are are different different kinds of ofsalting tubs. One One kind, kind, aa simple simple There receptacle, is used used in in domestic domestic kitchens kitchens to salt pieces pieces of of meat, meat, receptacle, mostly pork; pork; others others are great great vats of of wood, stone or or cement, cement, mostly France are are of France different regions of of various shapes, which in different barbantelles. called baignoires, baignoires, bagnons bagnons or barbante/les. called

is Each is best. Each are the or cement cement are stone or Salting tubs in in stone the best. Salting tubs inside the the fits inside which fits frame, which provided with aa lattice-work frame, provided with objects, receptacle. On this are placed stones or other heavy objects, receptacle. are completely brine are in the the brine so the substances put in substances put so that that the immersed. immersed.

Samphire Samphire

anfish, antunny fish, with sardines, sardines, tunny made with Sandwiches made of bread. bread. Sandwiches of were omelettes were flat omelettes with flat even with and even chicken and sliced chicken chovies, sliced chovies, Engfrom Engcoming from word, coming the word, well before before the in France France well known in known terminology. culinary terminology. French culinary into French had entered entered into land, had land, Englishwith Englishmade with are made Sandwiches are make sandwiches. sandwiches. Sandwiches To make To bread, enriched bread, or enriched ordinary or with ordinary French bread, bread, with or French type bread bread or type with made with rolls made boat-shaped roBs special boat-shaped with special or with bread, or bllck bread, black at served at mostly served are mostly The latter latter are DOUGH). The Brioche dough dough(see Brioche (see DOUGH). painsfourrts. petits pains called petits often called are often in France France are parties and and in parties fourrés.

pn6-sarE -- Young in fattened in sheep fattened Young sheep SALT MEADOW. PRÉ-SALÉ SALT MEADOW. aromatic in aromatic rich in are rich These are sea. These the sea. meadows bordering the meadows bordering flesh. of the flesh. delicacy of increases the delicacy pasture pasture which greatly increases crystalline white crystalline nitre, aa white nitrate, nitre, SALTPETRE Potassium nitrate, SALTPETRE -- Potassium piquant and and aalittle tasting, piquant fresh tasting, salt y substance, little odourless, fresh substance, odourless, salty Used water. Used in cold so in cold water. less so water, less hot water, in hot bitter, soluble in easily soluble bittir, easily red gives an agreeable red an agreeable because in ustries beca use itit gives industries salting ind in the the salting toughens. because itit toughens. doses because in small small doses colour only in but only meat, but to meat, colour to gunpowder.) of gunpowder.) (It (It isis also constituent of used as as aa constituent also used

EN PAIN BRIocHE sANDwIcHs EN bread. SANDWICHS in brioche brioche bread. Sandwiches in Sandwiches PAIN BRIOCHErolls using boat-shaped boat-shaped roUs sandwiches, using ordinary sandwiches, like ordinary Made like Made rolls). (like bridge English mixture (like English bridge ro11s). of brioche brioche mixture made of made EN PAIN nI-Oru ou sANDwIcHs EN bread. SANDWICHS French bread. of French Sandwiches of Sandwiches PAIN FLÛTE OU are usually made France in Sandwiches or rvrENlcr EN PAIN EN PAIN DE MÉNAGE - Sandwiches in France are usually made sausageround or or sausageeither round rolls, either pains, i.e. i.e. crusty crusty rolls, petits pains, from petits from as same fillings fillings as with the thesame filled with andfilled buttered and split open, open, buttered shaped,split shaped, bread. for English-type English-type bread. for in sandwiches in intosandwiches made into and made split and are split loaves are French loaves Long French Long way. same way. the same the DE MIE PAIN DE AUPAIN sANDwIcHs AU bread. SANDWICHS loaf bread. withloaf Sandwiches with MIESandwiches mustard. little with aalitt mixed with with butter butter mixed of bread bread with slices of Spreadslices Spread le mustard. the sandwiches atat the Trim the thesandwiches slices.Trim twoslices. meat between between two Press meat Press triangles. ortriangles. rectangles or intorectangles cutinto sidesand andcut sides with filledwith arefilled breadare Engtish-type bread with English-type madewith Sandwiches made Sandwiches tongue, ham,tongue, slices: ham, intotilln thinslices: cutinto meat,cut of meat, kinds of various kinds various other orother chicken or pressed beef, pork, pressed beef, chicken roast pork, mortadella, roast mortadel/a,

the same same of the island of the island on the harvested on wine harvested SAMOS Sweet wine SAMOS -- Sweet name ArchiPelago. Greek Archipelago. in the the Greek name in grows on cliffs, by by on cliffs, plant which which grows Hardy plant SAMPHIRE. nlcLs-- Hardy SAMPHIRE. BACILE cress and and of Peter's cress names ofPeter's the names under the the known under It isis also sea. It also known the sea. soil, and and isis rocky soil, and rocky gardens, in in dry dry and grown in in gardens, sea-fennel. sea-fennel. ItIt isis grown eaten salad. principally as asaasalado eaten principally purslane, or or like purslane, or cream, cream, like in butter butter or ItIt can cooked in also be be cooked can also gherkins. pickled like gherkins. pickled in in vinegar vinegar like

found fish found small fish foraasmall name SAND me for Common na fqurrlr -- Common EEL. ÉQUILLE SANDEEL. tide. ItIt isis low tide. sand at atlow the sand itself ininthe on buries itself sandy beaches. beaches.ItIt buries onsandy (q.v.). smelt (q.v.). cooked wayas asthe thesmelt in thesame the same way cooked in French. inFrench. Sand langon in called lançon alsocalled eelisisalso Sandeel

watersparrow, sparrow, edible water SANDPIPER. Small edible Mlusicnn - - Small SAI\DPIPER. MAUBÈCHE (q.v.). cooked assnipe snipe(q.v.). wayas same way thesame cookedininthe

veal,etc. etc. roastveal, poultry,roast roast beef, beef,roast poultry, cucumbers following:cucumbers with the thefollowing: filled with befilled mayalso alsobe They may They of slicesof buttered slices twobuttered between two stylebetween pickledininthe Russianstyle theRussian pickled other andother anchoviesand gratedhorseradish, horseradish, anchovies withgrated sprinkledwith breadsprinkled bread artichokes etc.,artichokes sprats,etc., kilkis,sprats, herrings, kilkis, suchasasherrings, saltfish fishsuch filletedsalt filleted hard-boiled withhard-boiled mixedwith dice,mixed smalldice, (artichoke bottoms cutininsmall bottomscut (artichoke prawns' orprawns, shrimpsor watercress,shrimps orwatercress, cressor dice),cress cutinindice), alsocut eggs,also eggs, purde (thebutter witha apurée mixedwith buttermixed lobster(the spinylobster lobsters,spiny ciiyfish, lobsters, crayfish, (theleaves wholeoror leftwhole leavesleft lettuce(the shells),lettuce theirshells), fromtheir madefrom made

buttered slicesof ofbuttered twoslices oftwo SAl'lDWICH - Foodstuff composed of Foodstuffcomposed SANDWICHbetween. bread substancebetween. edible substance withsorne some edible bread with countryside toto Frenchcountryside theFrench ItIthas customininthe thecustom long been beenthe haslong mealenclosed enclosed their meal for their meatfor give fieldsmeat thefields give workers workers inin the the allthe bread.InInall orblack black bread. between piecesof wholemealor ofwholemeal twopieces 6etween two people provide people wascustomary customarytotoprovide south-west districts itit was south-west districts porkoror journeywith mostlypork meat,mostly ofmeat, slicesof withslices setting outon onaajourney settingout pieces twopieces betweentwo veal, succulent juices,between theirsucculentjuices, withtheir veal,sprinkled sprinkledwith 803 803

SANGLER SANGLER

Sandwiches with loafbread and cheese Sandwiches with loaf bread and cheese

Presentationofofsandwiches sandwiches with withloaf lozfbread bread(Claire) Presentation (Claire)

shredded), corn salad (lamb's lettuce), hard-boiled eggs (the shredded), corn salad (Iamb's Jettuce), hard-boiled eggs (the eggs cut in slices or small dice), sweet peppers, poutargue eggs cut in slices or small dice), sweet peppers, poutargue (mullet roes), sardines or other preserved in oil or silt, fish preserved (muJlet roes), sardines or other fish in oil or salt, salmon, tomatoes (sliced with the seeds removed and soaked salmon, tomatoes (sliced with the seeds removed and soaked in salt to remove their moisture), trufles (raw truffies cut in in salt to remove their moisture), truffies (raw truffles cut in thin slices and seasoned). thin slices and seasoned). Sweet sandwiches. sANDwrcHs D'ENTREMETs - prepared D'ENTREMETS - Prepared Sweet sandwiches. SANDWICHS with thin slices of stale brioche or Genoa cake. They are stale brioche or Genoa cake. They are with thin slices of buttered or not, according to what is used for the filling. buttered or not, according to what is used for the filling. These sandwiches may be made with chopped up fruit, These sandwiches may be made with chopped up fruit, jam, thick custards, etc. jam, thick custards, etc. Toasted sandrvlches. sANDwrcHs AU pArN GRrrrf - prepared Toasted sandwiches. SANDWICHS AU PAIN GRILLÉ - Prepared with lightly toasted, sliced tin loaf, French bread or splifrols. with lightly toasted, sliced tin loaf, French bread or split rolls . The filling these sandwiches is the same as for untoasted The filling for for these sandwiches is the sa me as for untoasted bread. bread. Alsatian sandwiches. sANDwrcHs ArsAcrENs - Fill bread Alsatian sandwiches. SANDWICHS ALSACIENS - Fill bread spread with butter mixed with grated horseradish with spread with butter mixed with grated horseradish with Strasbourg sausage, peeled and cut in slices. Strasbourg sausage, peeled and cut in slices. Antibois sandwiches. sANDwrcHs ANTrBors - Fill slices of Antibois sandwiches. SANDWICHS ANTIBOIS - Fill slices of toasted bread spread with butter mixed with chopped toasted bread spread with butter mixed with chopped tarragon, with hard-boiled eggs, capers and chopped ghertarragon, with hard-boiled eggs, capers and chopped gherkins. kins. Basil sandwiches. s.LNnwrcHs AU BAsrLrc - Fill thin slices of Basil sandwiches. SANDWICHS AU BASILIC - Fill th in slices of toasted bread spread with butter to which chopped fresh basil toasted bread spread with butter to which chopped fresh basil has been added, with chopped hard-boiled eggs. has been added, with chopped hard-boiled eggs. Bookmaker's sandwiches. sANDwrcHs DU BooKMAKER _ Bookmaker's sandwiches. SANDWICHS DU BOOKMAKER Butter slices of bread. Fill with a l-cm. (*-inch) thick grilled Butter slices of bread. Fill with al-cm. (-t-inch) thick grilled steak, seasoned with salt and pepper, and spread, when cold, steak, seasoned with salt and pepper, and spread, when cold, with English mustard. with English mustard. Dijon SANDWICHS DrJoNArs DIJONAIS -- Fill Fill slices slices of of Dijon sandwiches. sandwiches. serqowrcHs French bread spread with butter mixed with Dijon mustard, French bread spread with butter mixed with Dijon mustard, with with diced diced hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg and and parsley parsley ham ham (a (a regional regionaJ speciality of Dijon). speciality of Dijon). Foie gras sandwiches. sANDwcHs DE ForE GRAS Spread a Foie gras sandwiches. SANDWICHS DE FOIE GRAS -- Spread a slice of bread with a layer of foie gras. Cover with inother slice of bread with a layer of joie gras. Cover with another slice. slice. These These sandwiches sandwiches can can also also be be made made by by filling filling lightly Iightly buttered ofloaf Joafbread, bread,crusty crusty rolls roUs or orbrioche briochemixturl mixture buttered slices slicesof (bridge rolls truffled joiegras. gras. rolls (bridgerolls) rolls)with withslices slicesofoftruffiedfoie P6rigourdine sandwiches. sANDwrcHs A rlr pEnrcouRDrNE Périgourdine sandwiches. SANDWICHS À LA PÉRIGOURDINEFill slices of toasted bread spread with truffie purde with small Fill slices oftoasted bread spread with truffie purée with sm ail slices offoie gras. sUces of joie gras. Tartare Tartaresandwiches. sandwiches. sANDwrcHs SANDWICHS AÀr,c. LA ranrARE TARTARE -- Spread Spread slices of bread with a thick layer of minced raw beef mixed slices of bread with a thick layer of minced raw beef mixed with halfits its weight weight of of butter, butter, chopped chopped chives, chives, salt salt and and with half paprika. paprika . SANGLER SANGLER- - To Topack packice, ice,ororice iceand andsalt, salt,around aroundaamould mould

placed in inaawooden wooden receptacle, receptacle, in inorder orderto freezewater to freeze placed waterice iceor or ice cream cream mixtures. mixtures. ice

SANGRI -- StimuJating Stimulating beverage beverage obtained obtained by SANGRI mixing Madby mixing Madeira with with water, water, sugar sugar and and aa little grated nutmeg. little grated nutmeg. eira SANGRIA -- Spanish Spanish drink drink consisting consisting of SANGRIA of aa blend blend of of wine, wine, lemonade and and sometimes sometimes alcohol, alcohol, garnished garnished with lemonade with orange orange and and lemon slices. slices. lemon

SANGLINE -- A A dish dish known known under under this SANGUINE this name name in in some some districts of of France, France, notably notably Berry, Berry, isis called districts called sanquelle sanquette in in the the south-west. south-west. g. (4 (4 oz., Cook 100 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) chopped chopped white Cook white onions onions Iightly lightly in in butter. When they are are cooked cooked and golden in and golden our, pour into in col colour, pan of 2 chickens. Season, the pan the blood of2 Season, shake shake to to mix mii well well and and cook like a pancake. pancake. cook (Btood orange) -- Variety SANGUINE (Blood Variety of sweet SANGUINE sweet orange orange with red f1esh. flesh. red

SAI\SONNET -- Colloquial name for the starling, properly SANSONNET properly called called ttourneauinFrench, étourneau in French, considered considered edible edible and cooked cootea Iike tkl the the lark lark (q.v.). (q.v.). The The same same word word is used used in French French for a small mackerel. small mackerel. SAPID. SAPID. sepnn SAPIDE -- That That which which is savoury savoury and agreeably agreeably excites

the the sense sense oftaste. of taste.

SAPODILLI\ SAPODILLA or or NASEBERRY NASEBERRY PLUM. sAporrLLE SAPOTILLE - Name of of Malay Malay origin origin given given in in Java Java and and the the East East Indies Indies to a fruit which is called called sapotille. sapotille. Scientifically Scientifi~lly it is the which in in French French is Sapota Sapota achras.It achras. It is is about about as as large large as as a lemon. lemon. Its Its exterior exterior

colour colour isis greyish; greyish; the the flesh f1esh is is reddish-yellow, reddish-yellow, like like that that of of an an apricot. apricot. The The taste taste isis delicious delicious but but this this fruit fruit can can onlv only be be eaten eaten where where itit grows. grows.

SARACEN SARACEN CORN CORN (Buckwheat). (Buckwheat). smnmm SARRASIN - Herbaceous - Herbaceous plant, plant, sometimes sometirnes known known in in France France as as btt blé norr, noir, classed classed as as aa cereal. cereal. ItIt prefers prefers aa granitic granitic terrain terrain and and is is grown grown more more in in Brittany thanininany any other otherpart part of ofFrance. France. Brittanythan Unsuitable is used used for for porporUnsuitable for for making making bread, bread, its its grain grain is ridges, ridges,galettes galellesand and pancakes. pancakes. (See (See BUCKWHEAT.) BUCK WHEA T.)

SARDINESARDINE-Migratory Migratoryfish fishofofthe thefamily farnily Clupeidae,which Clupeidae, whichin in

some thenorth-west north-west of ofFrance Franceisiscalled ca lied cardeau cardeau sorneprovinces provincesofofthe and andharenguet, harenguet, and, and,atatBordeaux, Bordeaux,royan. royan. ItItisisfished fishedabundantly abundantlyininSardinia, Sardinia,from from which whichitittakes takesits its name. name. ItItisis also also fished fished along along the the coasts coasts of ofBrittany, Brittany, where where the the preservation of sardinesininoil oilisisdone doneon onaalarge largescale. scale. preservationofsardines Inlnthe theMediterranean Mediterraneanregion, region,particularly particuJarlybetween betweenMenton Menton 804 804

SARDINE SARDINE marketed marketed commercially commercially in in this this form. form. They They are are served served as as horshorscuvre. dd'œuvre. AU Sardines Sardines in in paper paper cases cases au au gratin. gratin. SARDINES SARDINES EN EN cAIssEs CAISSES AU cRATIN GRA TIN --'- Arrange Arrange fresh fresh sardines, sardines, stuffed stuffed and and cooked cooked in in white white wine wine (see (see below, below, Sardines Sardines with with white white wine) wine) in in paper paper cases cases (oiled (oiled and and dried dried in in the the oven). oven). Garnish Garnish with with I1 good good tablespoon tablespoon thick duxelles of ofthick duxelles (q.v.). (q.v.). and I1 Add Add 11 or or 22 tablespoons tablespoons (l (1 to to 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) duxelles duxelles and sardines tablespoon tomato sauce sauce to to the the liquor liquor in in which which the the sardines tablespoon tomato this sauce were were cooked cooked and and spoon spoon some sorne of ofthis sauce over over them. them. and brown Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and melted melted butter butter and brown and arrange arrange on top lightly lightly in in the the oven. oven. Put Put chopped chopped parsley parsley on top and dish. on aa dish. the the paper paper cases cases on A nN CAISSES cussns À sARDINES EN I'italienne. SARDINES cases ià l'italienne. Sardines in Sardines in paper paper cases like Sardines Sardines fresh sardines sardines Iike cook fresh and cook L'ITALIENNE L'ITALIENNE -- Prepare Prepare and (see below). below). wine (see with white white wine rectangular in aa little little rectangular one in set each each one cooked set are cooked When When they they are in the the oven) oven) dried in (previously rubbed and dried with oil oil and rubbed with paper case case (previously paper good tablespoon chopped tablespoon chopped with 11 good garnished on the bottom bottom with on the garnished mushrooms. EN CAISSES cArssrs SARDINES EN portugaise. SARDINES la portugaise. paper cases cases ài la in paper Sardines in gratin, poRrucAISE -- Like paper cases au gratin, coses au in paper Llke Sardines Sardines in A LA u PORTUGAISE À (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Tomato with Toma the duxelles duxelles with replacing the fon&te (see 10 fondue place of in place of butter. butter. with oil oil in made with preparation can can be be made This preparation the remove the and remove heads and Take off offthe papillotes -* Take Sardines en papiUotes the heads grill and grill oil, season season and Brush with with oil, sardines. Brush fresh sardines. bones of large fresh lightly. Iightly. as way as prepared in in the the same same way paper prepared sheet of in aa sheet of paper Wrap each each in (see MULLET, RED), covering covering MULLET, RED), papillote (see mullet en en papillote for Red Reil mullet for duxelles. very truck thick duxelles. with very the fish with the and very hot hot oven oven and in aa very time in short time papillotes for for aa short Put the the papillotes Put serve at at once. once. serve large and fillet fillet large wipe and clean, wipe paupiettes -- Scale, Scale, c1ean, en paupiettes Sardines en Sardines sardines. fresh sardines. fresh using and using downwards, and skin downwards, the table, table, skin flat on on the the fiJlets fillets fiat Lay the Lay quenelle Fish Frsfr line of of quenelle pipe on thin line to each each aa tilln on to bag, pipe forcing bag, aa forcing very thick thickduxelles. (see FORCE or very FORCEMEATS) forcemeat MEATS) or duxelles. forcemeat (see put them in aa in rows rows in them in paupiettes, and and put the fillets fillets en en paupiettes, Roll up up the Roll wine, mushroom mushroom white wine, little white Pour over over aa little sautd dish. dish. Pour buttered sauté buttered gently, covered, for 88 juice or covered, for very gently, cook very stock, and and cook fish stock, or fish juice minutes. minutes. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see wineor or other other sauce White wine with White Serve with Serve withsalt, salt, on onaa seasoned with sardines, seasoned plat -- Put Put the thesardines, auplat Sardines au Sardines with sprinkled with been sprinkled has been which has dish willch fireproof dish buttered fireproof buttered tablespoons (5(5 for 12 12sardines, sardines, 44tablespoons Pour over, over, foT shallot. Pour choppedshallot. chopped with Dotwith little lemonjuice. lemon juice. Dot wine and and aalittle dry wrute whitewine tablespoons) dry tablespoons)

Sardine

and Marseilles, Marseilles, the the sardines sardines fished fished are are extremely extremely delicate delicate and and are eaten eaten fresh; fresh; they they cannot cannot be sent long long distances distances without are deterioration. deterioration. Thus the the fish fish is is known known slightly slightly salted, salted, or or completely Thus preserved in brine or, its most frequent form, tinned in oil. preserved hors-d uuvre. Conserved in oil oil or or salt, sardine is served served as hors-d'œuvre. salt, the sardine Conserved sardines unless The recipes recipes which which follow are are for for fresh fresh sardines The can be fresh herring otherwise stated. stated. In In U.S.A. U.S.A. young young fresh herring can otherwise sardine. substituted for the European sardine. l'anglaise -- Open fresh sardines and take out the Sardines ià I'anglaise Sardines fry and fry sardines with egg and breadcrumbs and bones. Coat the sardines Maitre half-melted Maître with half-melted them in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Cover Cover with them d'hôtel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). dh\tel sardines. Sardines ài l'antiboise the heads of fresh sardines. Take off offthe I'antiboise -- Take with egg and Open the fish and take out the backbones. backbones. Coat with oil. breadcrumbs and fry in olive oiL the Garnish the crown. Garnish form of aa crown. Arrange in the the form dish in Arrange on on aa dish (see FONDUE) FONDUE) middle of with Tomato Tomato fondue dish with middle of the the dish fondue (see seasoned little garlic. seasoned with aa !iUle (Provengal cookery). cookery). Bouillabaisse sardines (Provençal of sardines Bouillabaisse of wipe wash and and wipe BOUILLABAISSE clean, wash Scale, clean, DE SARDINES sARDINEs -- Scale, BouILLABAIssE DE 500 (18 oz.) sardines. g. (18 fresh sardines. oz.) large fresh 500 g. (scant * cup) oil, tablesoil, 22 tablesCook tablespoons (scant in 33 tablespoons Cook lightly in "op)1I tablespoon tablespoon poons ion and (3 tablespoons) and onion poons (3 chopped on tablespoons) chopped chopped leek. chopped leek. crushed tomatoes, 22 crushed Add peeled, seeded and chopped chopped tomatoes, seeded and Add 22 peeled, leaf' cloves pepper, thyme, half aa bay bay leaf, thyme, half salt, pepper, garlic, aa pinch pinch of of salt, of garlic, cloves of aa little rind. piece of orange rind. of bitter bitter orange small piece fennel and and aa small little fennel (Il oz., g. (II oz',2 Pour 2 pints) water, 300 g. (l+ pints, pints, li water, add add 300 lj pints) Pour in in 77 dl. dl. (Ii on scant cooking on begin cooking slices, and and begin potatoes cut in thick thick slices, cut in cups) potatoes scant cups) good good heat. heat. potatoes are are threethreeAdd the potaloes when the pinch of and when saffron, and of saffron, Add aa pinch pan and the pan and quarters top. Cover Cover the put the on top. the sardines sardines on quarters cooked, cooked, put cook minutes. to 10 l0 minutes. for 88 to cook briskly briskly for Drain dish. them on on aadish. potatoes and set lhem and set and potatoes the sardines sardines and Drain the Sprinkle parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped Sprinkle with Pour thick dozen thick with 1I dozen dish lined lined with into another another dish Pour the the broth broth into slices with chopped chopped too, with this, too, Sprinkle this, bread. Sprinkle of French French bread. slices of parsley. parsley. Serve dishes together. together. both dishes Serve both Sardine oz) 75g.g.(3Qoz.) Pound 75 DESARDINES sARDINEs -- Pound BEURREDE butter. BEURRE Sardine butter. (aoz., Rub fiI1ets cup)butter. butter. Rub oz.,i I cup) 100g.g.(4 Add 100 in oil. oil. Add sardines in fillets of of sardines through fine seive. seive. through aafine Use hollow fried hollow canapts,fried forcanapés, hotfor hors-d'euvre, hot coldfor for hors-d'œuvre, Usecold crusts pastrycases. cases. crusts and and pastry pnnrolsAUXsARDINrsDartois of sardines. AUX SARDINES - Like tois of of LikeDar Dartois sardines. DARTOIS Dartoisof anchovies (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, ho r s - d' c uvre'1 H o thors-d'œuvre). HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot ancho v ie s(see Fried smelts likeFried Friedsmelts Cookedlike FRITEs- - Cooked sARDINEs FRITES sardines.SARDINES Fried sardines. (see (seeSMELT). SMELT). GriUed sardines freshsardines Brushfresh cmlrfns - - Brush sARDINESGRILLÉES sardines.SARDINES Grilled sardines. with heat. grillatatmoderate moderate heat. thegrill Cookunder under the them.Cook withoiL oil.Season Season them. Serve (seeBUTTER, Compound BUTTER,Compound butter(see d h\telbutter withMaître Maitre d'hôtel Servewith butters). butters). Sardines found arefound Sardinesare L'suILE- - Sardines sARDINEsÀAL'HUILE oil.SARDINES Sardines ininoH.

i

(/Vicolas) sardinesininoi!oil(Nicolas) Tinnedsardines Tinned

805 80s

SARDINE SARDINE

AAbrown Robert Carrier\ brownsauce sauce( (Robert Carrier)

little pieces of butter. Cook in the oven at a good heat for g to !ittle pieces of butter. Cook in the oven at a good heat for 8 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. 10 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Saltd sardines (preserved). slrEes proceed. Salted sardines (preserved). sARDTNES SARDINES SALÉES -- Proceed, using fresh sardines, as described in the recipe for preserved using fresh sardines, as described in the recipe for Preserved

1

anchovie s (see

Sardines Sardineswith witbwhite whitewine wine(stuffed). (stuffed).sanowns SARDINESlu AUvrN VINBLANc BLANC Scale, Scale,clean cleanand and bone bone 12large 12 largefresh fresh sardines. sardines.

-

Stuffthem Stuffthemwith withaasmall smallquantity quantity ofofquenelle quenelleFishforcemeat Fishforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Press Press lightly lightly to to stick stick them them together together and and set set in in aa buttered buttered baking baking dish. dish. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Pour Pour over over I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant j t cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Start St artcooking cookingon ontop topof ofthe thestove, st ove,then thenpui putininihe theoven oven for for88to tol010minutes. minutes. Drain Drainthe thesardines sardines and and arrange arrange them them on on aa dish. dish. Add Add the the strained strained cooking cooking liquor liquor to to White White wine wine sauce sauce(see (see SAUCE) SAUCE)

ANCHOVY).

anchovies (see ANCHOVY). Sardines with spinach d la provengale. snnorNEs AUx Sardines with spinach à la provençaJe. SARDINES AUX Epwmos A ra pnovrNeAlE - Clean and bone fresh sardines, ÉPINARDS À LA PROVENÇALE - Clean and bone fresh sardines, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in butter. Arrange on 1 coat with egg and breadcrum bs, and fry in butter. Arrange on leaf spinach tossed in Noisette butter (see BUTTER, bomleaf spinach tossed in Noisette butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters) and seasoned with grated garlic. pound butters) and seasoned with grated garlic. 1

I

806 806

SAUCE SAUCE

1 1

land justbefore beforeserving servingpour pouraafew fewtablespoons tablespoonsofthe of thesauce sauce andjust loverthe thesardines. sardines. over SARGASSE - Seaweed Seaweedeaten eatenininSpain Spainininthe theform form ISARGASSO.sARGAssESARGA$SO. ,ofaasalad. salado of ISASSENAGE - Principal Principal town town of of the the canton canton of of Isdre, Isère, SASSENAGE Iramous for its grottoes in which its celebrated cheese is made. made' is cheese its celebrated which in grottoes its famous for CHEESE, Sassenage.) '(SeeCHEE (See SE, S as s enage.)

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1 SATYRION - Orchid with a goat-like smell whose whose tubers tubers SATYRION - Orchid with a goat-like smell 1contain an edi ble, fioury su bstanceanalogous to salep' salep. an edible, floury substance analogousto contain

SAUCE - Liquid Liquid seasoning seasoningfor for food. food. SAUCE - as sauces Classed in the French cuisine are many preparaClassed as sauces in the French caisine are many preparaI tions quite different from each other, other, not not only only in in their their taste^ taste tions quite different from each and appearance but in the way they are made; the juices of juices of the made; are they way in the but appearance and roasted meats; vinaigrette and its derivatives, hollandaise, roasted meats; vinaigrette and its derivatives, hollandaise, mayonnaise, béarnaise; stock thickened with flour, withfécule mayonnaise, bi arnaise ;stock thickened with fl our, vithf6 cule (Iike potato potato or orcornflour), cornflour), with with blood, blood, etc. etc. (like the nineteenth nineteenth century, century, Car6me Carême At the beginning of tne begnning of the Af included among among his his sauces sauces espagnole, espagnole, allemande, allemande, supr€me, suprême, included tarragon, ravigote, vert-pré, béchamel, financière, Périgueux, tarragont r avigote, ver t-pr6, bachanel, financibre, P ariguanx, tortue, matelote, matelote, Champagne' Champagne, sauce sauce dà Ia la r6gence, régence, bourguigbourguigtortui, (roebuck), aigre'daux aigre-doux nonne, sturgeon, poivrade, poivrade, chevranil chevreuil (roebuck), sturgeon, ,ron (sweet-sour), piquante, salmis, tomato, leveret thickened with ", piqu-ante, salmis, tomato, leveret thickened with (sweet-sourl 1 blood, parisienne, Robert, raifort (horseradish), (horseractish), magnonaise magnonaise blood, parisienie, Robert, raifort 1 (Carême thus designated mayonnaise), provençale, crayfish (Car6me thus designated mayonnu*), provengale, crayfish butter, lobster, shrimp, oyster, oyster, anchovy it sauce à creatn, sauce buttet, cream, anchovy butter, Iobster, shr{mp, iuttrr, la pluche, butter or or bdtarde, bâtarde, and caper. caper. and la pluche, butter 1 Today the French cuJinary repertory includes almost 200 Today the French culinary repertory includes almost 200 recipes for sauces, brown and white, hot and cold (not recipes for sauces, brown and white, hot and cold inc1uding variations). It is in this order that they will be inctuding variations). It is in this order that they will be described, beginning with the basic, or great sauces, brown described, beginning with the basic, or grcat sauces, brown and white, followed by compound sauces, brown and white. and white, followedby compound sauces, brown and white' Cold sauces and dessert sauces will be found at the end of this sauces and dessert sauces will be found at the end of this cold section. 1

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BASIC or GREAT SAUCES. GRANDES IvdREs' GRANDES sAUcHt MÈRES, BASIC or GREAT SAUCES. SAUCES used in the SAUCES - These are so called because they are sAUcEs - These are so called because they are used in the preparation of many other sauces. preparation of manY other sauces. BROWN BASIC SAUCES. SAUCES BRUNESBROWN BASIC SAUCES. sAUcEs BRUNES Demi-glace or rich brown sauce. DEMI-GLACE - Boil down by DEMI-GLAcE sauce. Demi-glace or rich brown - Boil down by two-thirds 5 dl. (seant pint, 2! eups) Espagnole sauce (see 5 dl. (scant pint, 2{ cups) Espagnole sauce (see two-thirds below) to which 8 dl. (generous 1t pints, 1i pints) cIear brown below) to which 8 dl. (generous l{ pints, lf pints) cf9a1b19w.1 stock have been added. Remove from dl' (3(3 add t* dl. heat,add from heat, Remove added. have been stock tablespoons, seant * cup) Madeira. Strain. Strain. Madeira. tablespoons, scant I cup) A handfuJ of mushroom skins during added during may be be added A handful of mushroom skins may cooking. cooking. Espagnole sauce 1 (based on meat stock). SAUCE ESPAGNOLE Espagnole sauce I Oased on meat stock). sAUcE ESPAGNoLE

pints, 5f (cnlsse) (GRASSE)-- To Tomake make2f 2tlitres litres($ (4-tpints, 51pints) pints)sauce saucemake makeaa 50 1. rouxusing using l5O 150e.g. (51oz oz,scant seanti-cup) i cup)butter butterand and I 150 g. (5* (5t oz', oz., ,ozx seant li Iups) cups) floui flour and and add add 44 litres.(3* litres (3-t quartl'-4i quarts, 4-t quarts) quarts) scant warm,liglrt Iightbrown brownstock. stock. Mix Mixand and boil boil over over aa brisk brisk heat' heat. warm, Make aa mirepoix mirepoix of,100 onoo g: g~ (4 (4 oz',3 oz., -t cup) cup) Reduce the the heat. heat. Make nduce carrot and'100 and 100g: g, (4 (4 oz.,l oz., 1cup) cup) onion onion cut eut in in dice dice and and lightly lightly carrot oz., generous generous*i cup) cup) diced diced lean lean bacon' bacon. fried, with with 75 75g.g. Q(3 oz., fried, Pour off off thi the bacon bacon fat, fat, dilute dilute the the pan pan juices juices with'l with ··1 dl' dl. (6 (6 Pour tablespoons, scant seant 1 cop) cup) white white wine wine and and add add to to the the sarce' sauce, tablespoons, together with with aa sprig sprig of ofthyme thyme and and half half aa bay bay leaf' leaf. together Cook the espagnole espagnole very gently gently for for 2l 2-t hours, hours, skimming skimming book the vegetables vegetables well weIl to to extract extract their their frequently. Strainl Strain, pressing pressingthe frequently. juicl. juice. puiUack Put back in in aa pan pan and and add add 66 to to 88 dl. dl. (1 (l pint,2|cups pint, 21 cups to to generous l4 It Pints, pints, lili Pints) pints) stock' stock. senerous Cook for Z4 2-t houri, hours, skimming frequently. frequently. Strain Strain into into aa Cook basin. Stirwith Stir with aa wooden wooden spoon spoon until until it iscoldis cold. basin. Next day day put the espagnole back back to cook again, ad{ing^l adding 1 Next 2* litre (scant (li pints^, pints, generous generous quart) quart) stock stock and j-t litre (seant pint' pint, 2* litre (lf litre tomato puree. purée. cups) tomato cups) to so as as to I hour, skim often, so cook very slowly for 1 Mix well, weil, cook Mix grease, strain strain all grease, Remove all sau@. Remove textured sauce. obtain a brilliant texiured the in the instructions in the instructions muslin. Use Use according to to the through muslin. particuJar reciPe. reeipe. particular ESPAGNoLE sAUcE ESPAGNOLE Espagnole sauce fi II (based on fish stock). SAUCE Espagpole (4| pints, 5-t 5i pints) sauce: (MAIGRE) -- For 2-t 2| litres (41 1r-c*) meat the meat espagnole, replacing the the ordinary espagnole, Proceed as foithe as for of instead of mirepoix in butter instead stock fry the themirepoixin stock with fish stock, and fry skins' mushroom skins. lard. Add 150 g. cups) mushroom g. (5 oz., oz., 55 cups) Finish off as for the ordinary espagnole. ordinary espagnole. offas (lu roulrn (AU sAUcE TOMATE stock). SAUCE Tomato meat stock). (brsed on on meat sauce 1I (based Tomato sauce gleat to aa great GRAS) as accompaniment accompaniment to use as its use from its Apart from cnls) - Apart auxiliary an auxiliary as an used as number sauce isis used tomato sauce dishes, tomato of dishes, number of touch final touch the final adds the preparations. ItIt adds ingredient numerous preparations. in numerous ingredient in to ragofits. and ragoûts. sauces and most brown brown sauces to most pints) sauce: sauce: For (4| pints, pints, 5-t 5| pints) 2f litres litres (4-t For 21 puree of tomatoes' of tomatoes, pints) purée (3* pints, pints, 4-t 4| pints) Ingredients. 2 litres (31 Ingreiients.2litres (4oz., oz', -ti cup) 100 g.g: (4 or tomatoes; 100 pressed fresh fresh tomatoes; lb) pressed kg. (6-!or 33 kg. 16! lb.) 9"pl of knuckle of (5oz.) blanched knuckle lean oz.) blanched 150g.g.(5 ba"oo, 150 diced bacon, tean blanched biancfed diced (4oz., oz', 1t cup) 100 g.gr(4 ham, ~ cup) carrot, 100 (4 oz., dicedcarrot, g: (4 cop) diced o2.,3 100 g. ham, 100 99n) garlic, 50 50-g.. ofgarlic, clove of diced bouquet garni, g. garnr, 1I unpeeled unpeeled clove onion, aabouqiet diced onion, flour; 1010.g'.(li cup)flour; (2 g. (It o;, i Zcup) is g.g. (3(r oz., butier, 75 cup) butter, 12oz., * cup) pinchof of sugar, aapinch teaspoons) i oz., I-t tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar, oz.,l| 20g.g.* salt,20 ieaspooirs) salt, stock' quart) white pepper; 1I litre (lÎ: pints, whitestock. generousquart) (lt pints,generous pepper; litre -Method. heavyMethod. Cook butterininaaheavylightly inin butter baconlightly the bacon Cook the they urtilthey themuntil bottomed cookthem andcook vegetablesand pan.Add the vegetables Addthe bottomed pan. flo-ur tillthe th9fiour are togethertill Cooktogether flour.Cook with fiour. quitesoft. Sptittttewith toft. Sprinkle arequite (orthe puree(or the^ colours, tomatopurée thetomato Addthe much.Add toomuch. nottoo butnot coloirs, but of cloveof Addthe theclove quarters).Add fresh cutininquarters). pressed and andeut tomatoes, pressed freshtomatoes,

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Spooo, spalula and ladle used in making sauces and ladle used in naking sauoes Spoon, spatula

which keep sauces Baio-maries in in keep sauccs which10to Bain-maries

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SAUCE SAUCE gallig, the bouquet garni, the ham knuckle and liquid. Season. the to bouquet garni, the ham knuckle and liquid. Season. Bring the boil, stirring. Cover the pan and- cook in the Bnng to the boil, stirring. Coyer the pan and cook in the oven at low heat for 2 hours. oyen at low heat for 2 hours. Take out the bouquet garni, the garlic and the knuckle of Take out the bouquet garni, the garlic and the knuckle of ham. ham. Strain the purie through a cloth, pressing it with a spatula, purée through a cloth, pressing it with a spatula, put it the orStra~n through a fine strainer. pour into a basin and whisk or put It through a fine strainer. Pour into a basin and wrusk to make the sauce as smooth as possible. Butter the surface to make the sauce as smooth as possible. Butter the surface to toprevent a skin forming. prevent a skin forming. Keep in a very cool place. Use as instructed. Keep in a very cool place. Use as instructed. Tomato sauce II (meafless). sAUcE TOMATE (,ru ueronE) _ Tomato II (me~tless). SAUCE TOMATE (AU MAIGRE) Proceed as~auce in the preceding recipe, leaving out the bacon and Proceed as III the precedmg recipe, leaving out the bacon and ham knuckle and using water instead of stock. ham knuckle and using water instead ofstock. Tomato sauce rrr (coulis de tomate). sAUcE TOMATE AU Tomato sauce nI (coulis de tomate). SAUCE TOMATE AU NATUREL, couI.n DE ToMATE _ Cook gently in butter a NATUREL, COULIS DE TOMATE - Cook gently in butter a mirepoix composed of 50 g. (2 oz.,* c.rp) shredded carrots mirepoixg.composed of 50 g. (2 oz., ~ cup) shredded carrots (2 oz., * cup) shredded onion. Add l+ kg. (3f lb.) 1nd-50 and 50 g. (2 oz., 1 cup) shredded onion. Add 11 kg. lb.) fresh tomatoes, pressed and cut in quarters. Season wiitisalt, fr~sh tomatoes, pressed and cut in quarters. Season with salt, a little sugar and a pinch of pepper. Add a small bouquet garni a(q.v.). httle su~ar and a pinch of pepper. Add a small bouquet garni Stir over good heat to blend the ingredients. When the (q.v.). SUr over good heat to blend the ingredients. When the mixture comes to the boil, cover the pot and cook in a slow mixture cornes to the boil, coyer the pot and cook in a slow oven. Put through a fine strainer. Boil down over strong heat ove~. Put through a,tlne strainer. Boil down over strong heat until the sauce thickens to the right consistency. Use unui the sauce thlckens to the right consistency. Use according to instructions. according to instructions. Tomato sauce, and coulis of tomatoes, can be made with Tomato sauce, and coulis of tomatoes, can be made with tinned tomato purde. tinned tomato purée. garli~,

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WHITE BASIC SAUCES. sAUcEs BLANcHEsWHITE BASIC SAUCES. SAUCES BLANCHESNlemande sruce This sauce is often wrongly included Allemande sauce -- This sauce is often wrongly included among 'basic' sauces. Allemande,which in spite ofits name is among 'basic' sauces. Allemande, which in spite of its name is entirely French in origin, is a compound siuce. (See below, entirely French in origin, is a compound sauce. (See below, compound sauces.) compound sauces.) B6chamel sauce. sAUcE BfcnaMsr - In modern practice this Béc~amel sauce. SAUCE BÉCHAMEL - In modern practice trus sauce is prepared quite differently from the way it used to be sauce IS prepared quite differently from the way it used to be made. Formerly btchamel was a velout| sauce with cream made. Formerly béchamel was a velouté sauce with cream blended into it, whereas nowadays it is made by stirring blended into it, whereas nowadays it is made by stirring boiling milk into a roux of butter and flour. boiling milk into a roux of butter and fiour. B6chamel sauce f @ased on meat stock). sAUcE sEcHlr"fir Béchamel sauce 1 (based 00 meat stock). SAUCE BÉCHAMEL cRAssE - For 2| litres (4j pints, 5j pints) stir 2f; litres (scant 5 GRASSE - For 21 litres (4~ pints, 51 pints) stir 2;i litres (scant 5 pints, 6 pints) boiling milk into a white roux made of 150 g. (5 pints, 6 pints) boiling milk into a white roux made of 150 g. (5 oz., generous j cup) butter and 150 g. (5 oz., l{ cups) ffoui. oz:' generous ~ cup) butter and 150 g. (5 oz., 1t cups) fIour. Mix well. Add 150 g. (5 oz.) lean veal cut into dice, cooked in MlX weil. Add ISO g. (5 oz.) lean veal cut into dice, cooked in butter without colouring with 50 g. (2 oz., * bu~ter without colouring with 50 g. (2 oz., ~ cup) chopped "up) chopped onion. Season, add a sprig of thyme, a fragment omon. Season, add a sprig of thyme, a fragment of of bay bay ieaf leaf and a little grated nutmeg. Simmer very gently for 45 minutes and a httle grated nutmeg. Sim mer very gently for 45 minutes to I hour. Strain through a cloth. to 1 hour. Strain through a clotho Bechamel sauce II (meafless). saucs sfcHnr,m urucnn _ As Béchamel sauce II (meatless). SAUCE BÉCHAMEL MAIGRE- As above, leaving out the veal. above, leaving out the veaJ. SuprGme sauce. sAUcE supn$w - The same applies here as Suprême sauce. SAUCE SUPIŒME - The same applies here as to Allemande sauce. Suprhme sauceis a combined sauce. the to Allemande sauce. Suprême sauce is a combined sauce the recipe for which will be found belowo under Compound recipe for wruch will be found below, under Comp~und sauces. sauces. Velout6 sauce. vnl,our6, sAUcE BLANcHE GRAssE For Z|1 Velouté sauce. VELOUTÉ, SAUCE BLANCHE GRASSE -- For 2 litres (4t pints, 5{ pints) stir 2f, litres (scant 5 pints, 6 pintsj litr~s (4~ pints, 51 pints) stir 2i litres (scant 5 pints, 6 pints) white stock made with veal or chicken (see STO-CK) into pali wrute stock made with veal or chicken (see STOCK) into pale blond roux made with 150 g. (5 oz., generous 1".rp) butter blond roux made with 150 g. (5 oz., generous ~ cup) butter and'150 g. (5 oz., lf cups) flour. and'I50 g. (5 oz., li cups) fiour. Blend well together. Bring to the boil, stirring with a Blend weil together. Bring to the boil, stirring with a wooden spoon until the first bubbles appear. Cook the wood en spoon until the first bubbles appear. Cook the vgloutt very slowly for l j hours, skimming frequently. Strain velouté very slowly for I~ hours, skimming freq uently. Strain through a cloth. Stir until it is completely cold. through a clotho Stir until it is completely cold. great .Velout| Veloutéisis aa great basic basicsauce, sauce, and and itit may may be beprepared prepared inin advance. It may also be made just before lt ii required. advance. It may also be madejust before it is required. As the white stock As the white stock used used for for making making itit isis siasoned seasoned and and flavoured, it is not necessary to add olher flavourings. An fiavou~ed, .it is not necessary to add other flavourings. An exception is made for skins and trimmings of mushfooms, exc~ptlOn IS made for skins and trimmings of mushrooms, which may be added when available, this addition making the wruch may be added when available, this addition making the sauce yet more delicate. sauce yet more delicate.

Velout6sauce sauceIIIf(based chickenstock). stock).VELOUTÉ vruourfDEor @ased00onchickeo Velouté Madelike likeordinary ordinaryVelouté Veloutisauce, santce)using -Made usingwhite white chickenstock stocktotostir stirinto intothe theblond blondroux, roux. chlcken Velout6s~uce (basedon sauceID III(based porssoN, onfish fishstock). stock).VELOUTÉ vsrourEDEDEPOISSON, Velouté otrV~LOUTE vnrourEMAIGRE MATGRE- -Made Madelike likeordinary ordinaryVelouté Veloutisauce, santce, DIT replacingthe theveal vealororcrucken chickenstock stockwith withfish fishstock. stock. replacmg VoLATLLEVO.LAlLLE

COMPOUNDBROWN BROWNSAUCES. SAUCES.SAUCES sAUcEsCOMPOSÉES, coMposf,B\, COMPOUND _

BRUNES BRUNES-

African sauce (forsmalJ sauce(for smallcuts cutsofofmeat, pot-roasted chickeo). meat,pot-roasted chicken). Africao sAUcEA~RICAINE AFRTcATNE - -Cook Cookininoil oiltill tillsoft soft100 100g.g;(4(4oz., oz.,l cup) S~UCE 1 cup) dicedomons, onions,then thenadd add22tomatoes tomatoes peeled, peeled,drained driinedand andcut cutinin dlced dice,and greenpeppers, and22green peeledand andalso cutinindice. alsocut dice.Season peppers, peeled dice, Season withsalt, paprika, aasmall salt, paprika, smallclove cloveofofgrated gratedgarlic, garlic,and anda a with bouquet garni, composedof parsley,thyme, ofparsley, thyme,bay biyleaf leafand bouquet garni, composed andaa pour inin 1I dl. sprig of of basil. basil.Cook Cookfor for 10l0 minutes. minutes. Pour dl.(6(6 sprig tablespoons, scant scant ~+cup) cup) white whitewine, wine.Boil Boildown. down.Add Add22dl. dl.(t(+ t~blespoons, pint, scant scantcup) cup)concentrated concentrated and andthickened thickenedbrown brownveal pmt, veai stock.Cook Cook for for'15 minutes. 15 minutes, stock. Aigre.douce sauce (forsmall sauce(for small cuts cutsof ofmeat, meafwhite white giblets). giblets). Aigre-douce sAUcE AIGRE-DOUCEArcRE-ooucn - Caramelise Caramelise lightly lightlyininaasm small SAUCE aIl saucepan saucepan33 Iumps.of sugar moistened moistened with with 33 tablespoons (scant o1cup) tablespoons (scant lumps .of sugar ..rp) wine vmegar. vinegar. Pour Pour in in I~lj dl. pint, ~3cup) dl. (i$ pint, cup)white white wine. wme wine.Add Add 1i pour inin2~ tablespoon chopped chopped shallots. shallots. Boil Boil down. down. Pour (scant 2j dl. tabl~spoon dl.(scant prnt, generous generous cup) cup) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce. Boil for sauce. Boil !i pmt, for aa few few moments and and strain strain through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Boil; Boil;add moments add 22 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) stoned stoned raisins raisins which which have tablespoons have been been soaked in in cold cold water, water, and and 1I tablespoon tablespoon capers. capers. soaked Alboni sauce, sauce, for for venisoo (English cookery). venison (English cookery). SAUCE sAUcE ALBONIA1boni ALBoNT _ Boil do~n down by by t~o-trurds two-thirds 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant ~* cup) Bo~1 ^oi ".rp) white wme wine to to WhlCh which 11 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopp-d shallot, white sprig of shallot, au,prig thy1g, aa piece piece of of bay bay leaf, leaf, aa sprig sprig of parsley and of parsley pinch of and aa pinch thyme, of paprika have have been been added. added. paprika Pour in 2 dl. (f pint, scant cup) Demi-glace sauce (see sauce (see _ Pour in 2 dl. (t pint, scant cup) Demi-glace above) and and22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) concentrated above) concentrated game game stock. Add juniper berries. Add 10 l0 crushed crushed juniper berries. Boil Boil for stock. for ai few fe* moments, strain, strain, and add add 1 tablespoon tablespoon redcurrantjelly redcurrant jelly and moments, and 1I tablespoon pine kernels browned in the oyen. oven. tablespoon pine kemels Aniseed sauce (for roast sauce (for roast venison). SAUCE sAUcE À Aniseed A L'ANIS L'aNrs -_ Cook 22 large lumps of of sugar and and 33 tablespoons (scant { cup) I~rge lumps tablespoons (scant cup) wine vinegar caramel. Add vlO~gar to ~o aa caramel. Add 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant ,"arri ~* cup) white green anise. anise. Boil, white wine wme and and 1I teaspoon green Boil, strain, strain, boil Uoii again, ag,ain, and and boil down by two-thirds. two-trurds. Add 3 dl. @pint, (~pint, 1 cups) lficups) thickened thlckened brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Boil for for a a few few moments and strain. strain. .Take Bigarade Bigarade sauce sauce I1 (old (old recipe). recipe). sAUcE SAUCE A À r.c. LA slcAReon BIGARADE _ - 'Take off bottom the peel off in in strips strips from frol? top top to .bottom peel of of a bitter orange; take take care care to to cut cut itIt very very thin thm so so that that there there will be no no white white pilh. pith.

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SAUCE SAUCE and 3 to 4 smooth smooth Espagnole sauce sauce to to sauce sauce an an entrbe, en/rée,j and 3 to 4 glass Sauttablespooni tablespoons lfuht veal veal stock. stock. Boil Boil down, down, add add glass Sautreaches the right ernes, ernes, still still simmering. simmering. When When the the sauce sauce the right little butter and consistency; Justbefore beforeserving, serving,add add aa little butter and consistency,strain. strain.Just

Cut Cutevenly evenlyininfine fineshreds, shreds,and andthrow throwinto intoboiling boiJingwater. water. After After boiling for for aa few few minutes minutes drain drain and and put put in in aa saucepan saucepan with with smooth Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce to to sauce sauce an an entrie, enlrée, aa very smooth enough very little game glaze, glaze, apinch a pinchof ofmignonette mignonetteand andthe thejuice juiceof ofhalf halfaa littlegame bitter orange. orange. After After having having brought brought itit to to the the boil boil several several bitter times, add aapiece of offine finebutter'. butter'. (Car€me' (Carême, L'Art L'Arlde de lalacuisine cuisine times, add française au auXIXe sibcle.) siècle.) frangaise Bigarade Bigarade sauce sauce If il (for (for duck duck or or duckling, duclding, roasted roasted or or potpotroasted). SAUCE BIGARADE BIGARADE -- Dilute Dilute the the thick thick juices juices in in the the roasted). sAUcE way: roasting roasting pan pan with with aa stock stock prepared prepared in in the the following following way: cook to to aa pale pale caramel caramel 25 25 g. (l (1 oz., oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar sugar cook soaked soaked in in 11tablespoon tablespoon wine wine vinegar. When When the the sugar begins begins to change colour, colour, pour in in 22 dl. dl. (+ (1 pint, scant scant cup) brown veal veal to change stock. Pour this this mixture into into the the roasting roasting pan pan and blend blend with with stock. Pour juices. the thejuices. Cook Cook for for 55 minutes minutes over over strong strong heat. heat. Add Add the the juice juice of of an an orange orange and and aa squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice juice and and strain. strain. Add Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) orange orange peel peel which which has has been been cold water, water, drained drained and and cut cut in in aa fine fine blanched, cooled cooled in in cold blanched. julienne. julienne. gs d Ducks Ducks and and ducklin ducklings à la la bigarade bigarade are are garnished garnished with with quarters quarters ofpeeled of peeled and and seeded seeded oranges' oranges. They They are are surrounded surrounded with a border border of of half half slices slices of of oranges, oranges, cut with with fluted-edged f1uted-edged *ittr cutters. cutters. canbe Bigarade Bigarade sauce can be flavoured with with aa very very small small quantity quantity of curagao, added at the last Iast moment' moment. julienne One-third lemon peel peel cut cut in in a a fine fine julienne is is sometimes sometimes of orange added tothe to the julienne julienne of orange peel. peel. duck is III. sAUcE Bigarade sauce In. SAUCE BIGARADE BIGARADE - When When the the duck is glass juices in the roasting I glass cooked, dilute dilute the thick thickjuices roasting pan pan with with 1 (+ pint, cup) white l+ dl' Pour in down. Pour white wine. Boil in lt dl. (i pint, J cup) white Boil down. with 1I 5 minutes. or consommé. consommd. Boil stock or Boil for for 5 minutes. Thicken with stock water. cold water. with cold arrowroot blended flour or arrowroot teaspoon potato fIour teaspoon blended with juice. lemon juice. juice of of lemon squeeze of and aa squeeze an orange and of an the juiee Add the Add peel. orange peel. aiulienne of orange with ajulienne finish with Strain and fimsh pan the thick thick pan Dilute the BIGARADE -- Dilute sAUcE BIGARADE Bigarade sauce IV. SAUCE Bigarade or port. Madeira or juicei with 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant j cup) Madeira dl. (6 juices Boil down stock. Boil (+ pint, scant cup) brown veal stock. scant cup) dl. (1 in 2 dl. Pour in corn or corn arrowroot or teaspoon arrowroot with 1I teaspoon one-third, thicken with by by one-third, to and bring bring to vinegar, and wine vinegar, of wine few drops drops of with aa few mixed with starch siarch mixed lemon juice of of lemon squeeze of and aa squeeze an orange orange and of an Add the the juice the the boil. boil. Add peel cut in aafrneiulienne. juice, strain, cut in orange peel strain, add add orange juice, fine julienne. BoNNEFoY s.l'ucn BONNEFOY fish). SAUCE (for meat meat and and grilld fish). sauce (for Bonnefoy Bonnefoy sauce wine. white wine. use white sauce 1 but use Bordelaise sauce as for for Bordelaise Proceed as -- Proceed shallot chopped shallot flnely chopped with finely made with be made can also also be sauce can This sauce This unstrained. and used used unstrained. and BoRDELATSE -(for grilled sAUcE BORDELAISE grilled meat). meat). SAUCE sauce 1I (for Bordelaise sauce Bordelaise with wine with red wine cup) red (} pint, pint, seant scant cup) dl. (1 two-thirds 22 dl. down by by two-thirds Boil down Boil piece ofbay of bay of thyme, aa piece sprig ofthyme, shallot, aa sprig 1I tablespoon chopped shallot, leaf and a pinch of salt. (see sauce (see Demi-glace sauce pint, scant cttp) Demi-glace scantcup) Pour in 2 dl. (1-(+ pint, add25 heat,add from heat, remove one-third, rem by one-third, Boil down down by ove from 25 g.g. above). above). Boil strain. and strain. butter and tablespoons) butter o2.,2 (1(l oz., 2 tablespoons) poached and and in dice, dice, poached cut in marrow cut beef marrow oz.) beef 25 g. (1(l oz.) Add 25 Add teaspoon chopped parsley. drained, and 11teaspoon drained, are usually usually sauceare served with bordelaise sauce meats served Grilled meats Grilled marrow. beef marrow. poached and drained beef and drained of poached garnished with slices of with slices garnished some Prepare sorne BoRDELAISE- - Prepare sAUcE BORDELAISE sauce II. SAUCE Bordelaise sauce Bordelaise but boil boil itit precedingrecipe, recipe' but inthe thepreceding as in wine as redwine concentrated concentrated red (ltoz.,3 tablespoons) 40g.g.(11 with40 Thicken with half.Thicken only by byhalf. downonly down oz., 3 tablespoons) foraa Boilfor butters). Boil BUTTER, Compound CompoundbUllers). butter (seeBUTTER, Kneadedbuller Kneaded bulk equalininbulk extractequal ormeat meat extract meat glazeor fewmoments. moments. Addmeat few preceding recipe. recipe. Finishasasinin thepreceding walnut. Finish totoaawalnut. eoRoBLAISE I-.c,BORDELAISE(oldrecipe). recipe). SAUCE sAUcEÀALA III(old sauceIII Bordelaise sauce Bordelaise leaves, pinchof garlic,aapinch oftarragon saucepan22clcloves 'Putininaasaucepan 'Put oves garlic, tarragon leaves, cloves,1I leafand and22cloves, littlebay bayleaf lemon, ofaalem fleshof theseeded seeded flesh the on, aalittle Simmer oil.Simmer oliveoil. Provence olive teaspoons Provence glassSauternes and22teaspoons Sauternesand glass addenough enough fat,add offaIlallfat, heat.Skim Skim off lowheat. overlow alltogether togetherover ail

au juice ofof~ the I lemon'. thejuice lemon'.(Car€me, (Carême,L'Art L'Artde delalacuisinefrangaise cuisine française au

XIX" X/xe sibcle-) siècle.)

Bourguignonne Bourguignonnesauce sauce-- See SeeBurgundy souce, sauce, below. below. um on pem A A rn Bread Bread sauce sauce (old (old recipe). recipe). sAUcE SAUCE LA MIE DE PAIN À some parsley, L'ANcIENNE -'Chop L'ANClENNE'Ch op I1clove clovegarlic, garlic, I1shallot shallot and and sorne parsley, put them in a saucepan with I glass white wine, boil down,

put them in a saucepan with

t glass white wine, boil down,

(3 very fine breadihen then mix mix in in 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) very fine breadand grated crumbs, crumbs, aa little little butter, butter, aa pinch pinch of of mignonette mignonette and

good consomme and ( nutmeg, nutmeg, 22tablespoons tablespoons ( 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) Boil down by 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) light light veal stock' stock. Boil down by juice of aa lemon.' (Car€me, L'Art de la half half and and add add the the juice of lemon.' (Carême, L'Arl de la cuisinefrangaise cuisine française au au XIXe x/xe sibcle). siècle). (for small roasted Fried Fried bread bread sauce sauce (English (English cookery) cookery) (for small roasted FRIr Bring to the boil 2j dl. (scant j birds). SAUCE AU AU PArN PAIN FruT -- Bring to the boil 2~ dl. (scant birds). sAUcE g. (L o2.,2 tablespoons) pint, pint, generous generous cup) consomm6, consommé, 25 25 (1 oz., 2 tatlle5ipc1ons) shallot. lean tablespoon finely chopped chopped lean diced diced ham haro and I1 tablespoon l0 minutes. for Simmer Simmer for 10 minutes. in butter, a pinch Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,l oz., 1cup) cup) breadcrumbs breadcrumbs fried fried in butter, a pinch juice. of of chopped chopped parsley parsley and and aa few few drops drops lemon Iemonjuice. 6 A rl sREroNNr Breion Breton or or bretonne bretonne sauce sauce I. 1. sAUcE SAUCE À LA BRETONNE -'Cut - 'Cut 6 Drain large on ions in in rings, colour colour them them in in clarified cIarified butter. butter. Drain large onions 2 tablespoons (3 them them on on a a horsehair sieve, sieve, mix mix with with 2 (3 (3 tablespoons) and 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) consomme consommé and 2 tablespoons (3 tat,lespoon:s) little butter a sugar, a little Add sauce. well-beaten well-beaten Espagnole Espagnole sauce. Add a sugar, a !ittle glaze, then strain, pressing the sauce and and a a little little chicken chicken glaze, then strain, pressing the sauce (Car0me, L'Art de la cuisinefrangaise au through aa fine through fine cloth'. c!oth'. (Carême, L'Art de la cuisinefrançaise au siicle.) XIXe X/Xe siècle.) (to and haricot beans). sAUcE flageolet bind II Breton sauce sauce II (to bind Breton FONDUE, Onionfondue. See FONDUE, BREToNNE -- See BRETONNE (English cookery). sAUcE AU tus veal (English graW, for roast veal for roast Brown gravy, Brown cookery). SAUCE AU JUS (+ pint, scant cup) Butter sauce II, to I dl. dl. (t Add 22 dl. coLoRE -- Add COLORÉ scant cup) Buller sauce Il, toI dl. juices roast. Finish off the roast. from (6 scant tablespoons, scant 1cup) cup) juices from the Finish off (6 tablespoons, sauce Worcestershire sauce or Worcestershire sauce or of Harvey sauce drops of few drops with aa few with ketchup. and and ketchup. sauce I or Red wine sauce I (for bourguignonne sauce or bourguignonne Burgundy or Burgundy 1 or Red wine sauce 1 (for BoURGUIGNoNNE, sAUcE AU vIN poultry). SAUCE sAUcE BOURGUIGNONNE, meat, poultry). eggs, meat, SAUCE AU VIN eggs, (3 onion chopped ornon tablespoons) chopped tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Cook 22 tablespoons noucn -- Cook ROUGE red wine, season, (scant pint,2f, cups) dl. in 5 Stir in butter. in butter. Stir in 5 dl. (scant pint, 2* cups) red wine, season, by two-thirds. Add 3 down by garni(q.v.) boil down and boil addabouquet add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and two-thirds. Add 3 sauce, boil down by half and Espagnole sauce, lf cups) cups) Espagnole dl. (j pint, Ii boil down by half and dl. g. (2 cup) butter. oz.,* 50 add 50 serving, add strain. Before serving, oz., cup) butter. a piece of to accompany intended souce Bourguignonne Bourguignonne sauce to accompany a piece of saut6 pan in in the made poultry must be or meat saut6ed sautéed meat or poultry must be made in the sauté pan in previously cooked in The onion, onion, previously was cooked. cooked. The this was which this cooked in which pan at the same time as the wine. put into into the the pan till soft, soft, isis put butter till butter at the same time as the wine. may be be added. skins may mushroom skins of mushroom handful of added. AA handful sauce II (for poached^eggs). or bourguignonne bourguignonne sauce Burgundy or Burgundy II (for eggs). ( 1| pints, a half I litre (I! by down Boil BouRGUIGNoNNp sAUcE SAUCE BOURGUlGNONNE -- Boil down by a half pints, added been has which to quart) red wine to which has been added 1I red wine generous quart) generous (q.v.), garni bouquet garni (q.v.), aa small bouquet shallots, aasmall chopped shallots, iablespoon chopped tablespoon ground pepper. freshly little a pinch salt and of pinch of salt and a little freshly ground pepper. Kneaded butter tablespoons) Kneaded o2,3 40g.g. (1(lt with 40 Thicken with Thicken t oz., 3 tablespoons) bUller few mofor aafew Simmer for butters). Simmer (seeBUTTER, Compound bUllers). BUTTER, Compound (sec mobutter. oz.,kcup) add 50 50g.g.(2 and add ments, and Q oz., I cup) butter. ments, (for fish). fish).^s.r'ucn III (for sauceID bourguignonnesauce or bourguignonne Burgundyor Burgundy SAUCE (1f; pints, litre(li with 1Ilitre Pripire aafrshfumet sounCuIcNoNNE - - Prepare BOURGUIGNONNE fishfumel with pints, from the trimmings and bones quart) the red wine, generous quart) red wine, the bones and trimmings from the generous onion, chopped prepared, aamedium-sized medium-sized ehopped onion, aa being prepared, fishthat that isisbeing fish skins. mushroom skins. of mushroom handfulof garni and andaa handful bouquet garni smallbouquet small

*

n.

Season. Season. Kneaded butter withKneaded flnishwith andfinish halland byhalf, down by boildown Strain, boil Strain, buller the preceding rgcipe' butters) asasininthe (seeBUTTER, Compoundbullers) BUTTER, Compound (see preceding recipe. tablespoons, scant I cup) dl.(6(6tablespoons, keep1Idl. braised, keep fishisisbraised, IfIfthe the fish scant t cup) the sauce. thistotothe addthis in,and andadd cookititin, wine fumettotocook redwinefumel red sauce. 809 809

SAUCE SAUCE Bugundy or bourguignotte sauce for freshwater fish (old Burgundy or bourguiguotte sauce for.Clean freshwater fish (old recipe). szlucr A LA BouRGUrcNorrE a medium-sized reclpe). SAUCE À LA BOURGUlGNOTTE - -'Clean a mediwn-sized eel, cut it in chunks and put it in a saucepan with 2 onions, eel, eut it(+inlb., cbunks and put it in a saucepan with 20nions, cups) chopped mushrooms, 2 cloves garlic, ?25g.e,(1 lb., 44cups) 225 mushrooms, 2 c10ves garlic, 2.shallots, a bouquet chopped garni, a pinch powdered pepper, a ofpowdered 2pinch shallots, a bouquet garni, a pinch of pepper, a of four spices,4 washed anchovies ind j bottli Votrray. pinch offour spices, 4 washed anehovies and 1 bottle Volnay. Boil down a little on low heat, then strain thii essence, using Boil down a !ittlc on low heat, thcn strain this essence, pressure. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) well using mixed pressure. 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) weil mixed EspagnoleAdd santce, and225 g. (+ lb., 4 cups) peeled mushrooms Espagnole sauce, and 225 g. (t lb., 4 cups) peeled mushrooms with their stalks. Cook over strong heat in the usual way, and with stalks. Cook over strong heat in the usual way, and pour.their in another glass of Volnay. When the sauce is thC right pour in another of Volnay. When the sauce is the right consistency, putglass it into a bain-marie. Beforeserving servingadd a?d put it Înto a bain-marie. Before consistcncy, crayfish butter, 30 crayfish tails, and the same number of erayfish butter, 30 erayfish tails, and the same number of small white mushrooms.' (Car6me, L,Art de la cuisine small white mushrooms.' (Carême, L'Arr de la cuisine siicle.) frangaise au XI){e française au XlXe siècle.) Chambertin sauce. sAUcE AU cHAMBERTTN See Burgundy Chambertin sauce. SAUCE AU CHAMBERTIN -- See Burgundy sauce. Use Chambertin to make the sauce. sauce. Use Chambertin to makc the sauce. Chambord sauce. SAUCE CHAMBoRD - Genevoise sauce Chambord sauce. SAUCE CHAMJWRD - Genevoise sauce prepared with the cooking liquor of the fish used, blended prepared wÎth (See the cooking liquor of the fish used, blended with red wine. CARP, Carp Chantbord.) with rcd wine. CARP, Carp Chambord.) Chapelure (Sec or bread sauce (old recipe). s,c,ucs A rA, Chapelure or bread sauce (old recipe). SAUCE À LA cHAnELURE - 'Chop 2 shallots, cut up finely a little lean ham, CHAPELURE - 'Chop 2 shallots, eut up finely a little lean ham, put in a saucepan with 2 to 3 tablespoons light veal stock and put in a sauccpan wit h 2 ta 3 tablespoons light veal stock and a pinch of mignonette, simmer over low heat. When the sauce aispinch ofmignonette, simmer over low heat. When the sauce boiled down, remove the ham and add 2 tablespoons (3 is boiled down, remove the ham and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) very fine breadcrumbs, little fresh butter,'2 tablespoons) very fine breadcrumbs, aa little fresh butter, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) good consommd and thejuiceof tabJespoons (3 tablespoons) good consommé and thejuice of a lemon. Boil for a few minutes and serve., (Car€me, i'ert de alaleruon. Boil for a few minutes and serve.' (Carême, L'Art de cuisinefrangaise au XIXe siicle.') la cuisine française au XlXe siècle.) Charcutiire sauce I (for cuts of grilled or saut6ed pork). Charcutière sauce 1 (for cuts of griUed or sautéed pork). sAUcE cruncuntnr Cook 2 tablespoons (3 tablespbons) SAUCE CHARCUnÈRE -- Cook 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) finely chopped onion until soft in I tablespoon of lard oi finely chopped onion until soft in 1 tablespoon of lard or butter. Stir in 2 dl. (* pint, scant clrry) Demiglace sauce. Boil butter. Stir in 2 dl. (t pint, seant cup) Demi-glace sauce. Boil for a few moments. Strain, and add 2 tablespoons (3 for a few moments. Strain, and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) gherkins cutin julienne or dice. tablespoons) cut injulienne or dice. Charcutiiregherkins sauce If. sAUcE cn,lRcurIiRE - proceed as Charcutière sauce II. SAUCE CHARCUTIÈRE - Proceed as above, but dilute the thick pan juices with I tablespoon wine dilute the truck panjuices with 1 tablespoon wine above, but vinegar before adding the Demi-glace sauce. vinegar before adding the Demi-glace sauce. Finish Finish with with the the gherkins. gherkins. Charcutiire sauce IIf. ilucr cnmcuniRn - Mix the Charcutière sauce ill. SAUCE CHARCUTlf.R.E - Mix the cooked onion with'l tablespoon white cooked onion with 1 tablespoon white wine, wine, stir stir in in DemiDemiglace sauce and add the gherkins and I teaspoon of made and add the gherkins and 1 teaspoon of made glace sauce mustard. mustard. Charcutiire sauce W. sAUcE crilncufltns - Sprinkle the Charcutière SAUCE CHARCUTIÈRE - Sprinkle the cooked onion sauce with IV. I tablespoon flour. till cooked onion with 1 tablespoon fiOUL Cook till golden. golden. Dilutewith alittlewine or wine vinegar and Cook stirin white stock Dilute with a little wine or wine vinegar and stir in white stock (or water with the addition of meat g)aze or meat extract). (or water with the addition of meat glaze or meat extract). Boil for a few moments. Finish as above. Boil for a few moments. Finish as above. Chasseur or hunter sauce f (for small cuts of meat and Chasseur hunter sauce 1 (for smaU cuts of meal and sauteed fowl).oruucn cHAssEUR Saut6 g. (4 tOO g. (4 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) sautéed fowl). SAUCE CHASSEUR -- Sauté 100 chopped mushrooms in butter, season with salt. When thev chopped mushrooms in butter, season with salt. they are three-quarters cooked add I tablespoon finelyWhen choppei are three-quarters eooked add 1 tablespoon finely ehopped shallot. shaBot.with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant + cup) white wine, boil _ Mix Mixbywith dl. (6 tablespoons, t CLIp) white wine, boil down half,1stir in lf dl. ({ pint, Iseant cupl n emig lace sauce and down by half, stir in 11 dl. (t pint, ! cup) Demi-glace sauce and dl, tablespoons, scant (6 c.rp) Tomato (see * 11 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant t cup) Tomalo saice sauce (see above). above). Boil for a few moments. Add 25 g. (l oz., Boil for a Ifew moments. Add 25 g. (1 oz., 22 table*poorrr; tablespoons) butter and tablespoon chopped parsley, chervil arrd tarbutter and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, chervil and tarragon. ragon. The mushrooms may also be sautied in a mixture of butter andThe oil. mushrooms may also be sautéed in a mixture ofbutter and oil. Chasseur or hunter sauce If. sAUcE cHAssEUR Chop the Chasseur or hunter sauce II. SAUCE CHASSEUR-- Chop the mushrooms, toss in butter with the chopped shallotj and mushrooms, toss in butter with the chopped shallots and remove from the pan. remove from the pan. Put into the cooking butter I tablespoon Put ioto the cooking butter 1 tablespoonflour, flour,cook cookgently gently till golden, mix with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant * cup) wtritl tiU golden, mix with 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant t white wine, then stir in 2 dl. (| pint, scant cup) consommdcup) ororwhite wine, then stir in 2 dl. (t pint, scant cup) consommé white stock and I tablespoon tomato purde. stock and 1 tablespoon tomato purée. 810 810

Boildown, down,put putback backthe themushrooms mushrooms ininthe thesauce, sauce.and and Boil finishoff offas finish as aabove. bove. Chateaubriand sauce sauce1I (for (forgrilled gd[ed meat), meat).SAUCE sAUcE Cbateaubriand cHATEAUBRTAND - - Boil Boildown downby bytwo-thîrds two-thirds 1Idl. dl.(6(6tablestables_ CHATEAUBRIAND p-ogls,seant s9a1t1 cup) white wine winewith with 1Itablespoon tablespoonchopped chopped poons, I cup)white shallot.Add Addltdl. l+dl.(t$pint, Demi-glace sauce. sauce.Boil Boildown down shallot. pint,!Scup) cup) Demi-glace byhalf. half.Remove Remove from from the theheat. heat. by Add100 100g.g.(4(4OZ., oz.,t* eup) cup)fresh freshbutter butter and and JI tablespoon tablespoon Add chopped tarragon. tarragon.Season Season wilh withaalittle little cayenne cayenne and andaafew few chopped juice. dropsoflcmonjuice. of lemon Mix weIl. well.Do Do not notstrain. strain. drops Mix Chateaubriandsauce saucrc II. If. SAUCE slucu CHATEAUBRIAND cHATEAUBRTATqo - - Heat Heat l I Chateaubriand tablespoonmeat glazeor meatglaze orextract extracttnixed mixedwith with 22tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespooo tablespoons)white white stock stock or orwater. water. Add (4 oz., Add 100 100 g.g.(4 oi.,*1 cup) cup) tablespoons) fresh buttercutinto butter cut into fragments.l fragments, I tablespoonchopped tablespoon chopped parsley parsliy fresh and aafew few drops drops lemonjuice. lemon juice. Season Season with with aalittle little cayenne. cayenne. Mix Mii and well. weIl. Chaud-froid sauce, sauce, brown (for various brown (for various meats). meats). SAUCE sAUcE Chaud-froid cHAr.rD-FRorD BRUNE BRT;NE -- To To make make 55 dL (scant pint, dl. (seant pint, 2i 2f eups) cups) CHAUD-FROID sauce: put put inin aa thick-bottomed thick-bottomed saueepan saucepan Yi(generoui !I 3f dl. dl. (generous sauce: pint, 1~ lj cups) cups) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see above) sauce (see above) and ($ pint, and 2Zdt. pint, pint, dl. (t scant cup) cup) clear clear brown brown stock. stock. Boil Boil down down over over strong strong- heat, heat, seant stirring with with aa wooden wooden spoon. spoon. Add, Add, aa little little at at aa lime, time, 4+ dl. al (i(i stirring pint, s.eant scant 22 CUP&) cups) Meatjelly Meat jelly stock (seeJELLy). stock (see pint, JELL Y). Boil down down until until the the sauce sauce has has the the right right consistency. consistency. Chili Chill aa Boil quantity of small quantity of the the sauce sauce on on ice; ice; ifit if it is not not firm firm enough enough add add small jelly a few tablespoons and boil boil down. down. a few tablespoons jelly and Remove from from heat, heat, add add 22 tablespoons (3 tablespooDs) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Remove Madeira or or other other wine wine indicated indicated În in the reeipe, recipe, and and strain. strain. Stir Stii Madeira the sauce sauce unti] quite cold. until itit is is quite cold. the To obtain perfect coating, the sauce must be poured over - To obtain aa perfeet coating, the meat meat when when cold cold but but not not set. set. the Chaud-froid sauce., porlR sauce, chic chicken sAUcE CHAUD-FROID cHAUD-FRorD POUR Chaud-froid ken. SAUCE voLArLLEs Proceed as as for for the the ordinary sauce, VOLAlLLFS - Proceed ordinary Chaud-froid sauce. replacing stock by replacîng brown brown stock by chicken chicken stock. Flavoui FJavour with wine, or, Truffie or, according aœording to to its its final final use, use, with with a few tablespoons Trulfle essence (see ESSENCE). ESSENCE). essence (see Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce, sauce, fish. fish. s.lucB SAUCE cHAUD-FRorD CHAUD-FROID pouR POUR porssoN POISSON ary Chaud-froid -- Proceed Proceed as as for for ordin ordinary Chaud-froid sauce, sauce. using Espagnole Espagnole saucebased on sauce based on fish fish stock, stock, well weil skimmed. skimmed. Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce, sauce, game game flavomed. ftayoured. sAUcE SAUCE craun-rnop CHAUD-FROID A À L'EssENcE L'ESSENCE DE DE crBrER GIBIER - Proceed Proceed as as for for ordinary ordinary Chaud-froid Chaud-froid replaeîng the the brown brown stock stock by by I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, icant seant sauce, replacing :auce? it cup) cup) game game essence essence or orfwnet fwnel prepared prepared with with the the carcases carcases and and trimmings trimmings of ofthe the game game being being used. used. Flavour Flavour the the sauce sauce with with Madeira Madeira or or similar similar wine. wine. For For certain certain game, game, notably notably for for thrushes, thrushes, add add to to this this sauce sauce aa few drops few drops of ofCognac Cognac or or gin. gin. Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce with with orsnge orange (for (for duck duck and and duckting). duckling). proceed as for sAUcE SAUCEcHAup-rnon CHAUD-FROIDAÀr'onnNcp L'ORANGE-- Proceed as for Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sguc,e sauce !,l, replacing replacing the the brown brown stock stock by by l+ 1t dl. dl. (* (1 pint, pint, t-5 cup) cup) duckfumet duckfumet prepared prepared by by using using the the carcases carcases and and trimmings trimmings bf of the theduck. duck. Concentrate Concentrate this this sauce sauce more more than than usual usual so so that that itit will will not not bemade juice. be madetoo toothin thinby bythe theaddition addition of ofthe theorange orangejuice. Strain, Strain, add add to lO itil the the strained strained juice juice of of an an orange, orange, and and 22 tablespoons tablespoons(3 (3tablespoons) tablespoons)orange orangepeel peelblanched,iooled blanehed, cooledin in cold coldwater, water,drained, drained,and andcut eutinafinejulienne. in a fi ne julienne. This Thissauce saucecan canalso alsobe beused usedtotocoat coatvarious variouskinds kindsofofgame, game, the_luckfumer the ct uck fwnelbeing beîngreplaced replacedby bythat thatofofthe thegame gamebeing beingused. used. Chaud-froid SAUCEcnc,un-rnorD CHAUD-FROIDAÀrA, LA Cbaud-froidsauce saucewidr withtomatoes. tomatoes.sAUcE roMArE TOMATE-- Boil Boildown downby byone-third one-third55dl. dl. (scant (seantpint, pint, 2* 2i-cups) cups) tomato tomatopulp pulptotowhich which3j3tdl. dl.(generous (generous$!pint, pint, tf1t cupg cups)MZat Meal jelly jellystock stock(see (seeJELLY) JELL Y)have havebeen beenadded. added. Strain, and stir Strain, and stiruntil untilcompletely completelycold. cold. Chaud-froid SAUCEcHAUD-FRorD CHAUD-FROID Chaud-froidsauce saucewith witbtnffe truftleessenoe. esseoce.sAUcE AÀr'essrNce L'ESSENCEDE DETRUFFES TRUFFES-- Prepare Prepare game-flavourcd game-flavoured ChaudChaudfroid froidsauce saucewith with I 1dl. dl. (6(6tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seantj cup) cup) Trufie Truffie essence (seeESSENCE). ESSENCE). essence(see

t

SAUCE SAUCE

ll

i

Chaud-froid sauce sauce à la la nigoise. niçoise. sAUcE SAUCE cHAUD-FRoln CHAUD-FROID AÀ LA Chaud-froid NiÇOISE-- Proceed Proceed as as for for Chaud-froid Chaud-froidsauce,fish. sauce, fish. Add Add to to the the rlrgolsE finishedsauce sauceaafew fewdrops dropsanchovy anchovyessence essence and and I1tablespoon tablespoon finished choppedtarragon. tarragon. chopped Dried cherry cherry sauce sauce for for venison venison (old (old recipe). recipe). sArrcE SAUCE AUx AUX Dried CEruSESsicnrs-SÈCHES - 'Peel 'Peel and and wash wash 500 500 g' g. (* (i lb') lb.) dried dried cherries, cherries, cERIsEs pound pound them them in in aa mortar mortar and and boil boil them them in in aa saucepan with with 22 tablespoons(3 (3tablespoons) sugar, 22glasses glasses good Burgundy, iablespoons glass wine wine vinegar, vinegar, aa pinch of coriander and a little lemon It glass peel. Simmer Simmer for for 20 20 to to 25 25 minutes minutes and and mix mix with with it 22 peet. tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce and and the the juice juice of of iablespoons lemon. Boil Boil down, down, stirring stirring all a11 the the time time over over strong strong heat. heat. aa lemon. Strain through through aa cloth, cloth, using using pressure.' pressure.' (Car€me, (Carême, L'Art L'Art de de Ia la Strain X/Xe sibcle.) siècle.) cuisine française au au XIXe cuisinefrangaise Colbert sauce sauce (for (for griled griUed fish fish and and meat meat and and for for vegetables). vegetables). Colbert SAUCE cor-neRr COLBERT -- Bring Bring to to the the boil boil 33 to to 44 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (seant sAUcE glazediluted to *t cup) cup) meat glaze diluted with with I1 tablespoon tablespoon white white stock stock or or to meat -Ii"rnove cup) oz',ticup) water. Remove from from heat heat and and incorporate incorporate 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., *a:t"t. softenoo butter. butter. softened Season, and and add a little !ittle grated nutmeg and a pinch of of Season, I Add, stirring stirring all the the time, the juice of of {i lemon, 1 cayenne. Add, tat)le~ipolon chopped chopped parsley parsley and I1 tablespoon Madeira. Madeira. tablespoon (Anglosauce for roast roast fowlo fowl, particularly particularly turkey turkey (AngloCranberry sauce (9 oz.) Cook 250 g. American cookery). cookery). sAUcE SAUCE A(rx AUX AIRELLEs AJRELLES - Cook g. (9 American in aa eovered covered 2f cups) water in cranberries with 5 dl. (scant (seant pint, 2* cranberries rub and rub split. Drain and bernes split. pan for a few minutes, until the berries through a fine sieve. through cooking juice to make of the cookingjuice with a few tablespoons tablespoons of Dilute with serving. before serving. Chill before a thick thick sauce. Sweeten Sweeten and heat through. ChilI a seucr ÀA etc.) SAUCE Diable or devilled sauce 1I (for grilled chicken etc.) pint, JJ cup) cup) dl. (+ pint, l+ dl. LA by two-ihirds H down by Boil down DTABLE -- Boil LA DIABLE tablespoon vinegar with 1 tabIespoon white wine and tablespoon vinegar and 11 tablespoon white wine pinch good pinch and aa good leaf and of thyme, ] bay leaf chopped shallot, a sprig ofthyme, ($ pint, pint, seant cup) DemiDemiscant cup) dl. (t in 22 dl. Stir in of frestrly ground pepper. Stir Add 1I strain. Add and strain. glace few moments moments and for aa few glace sauce. Boit for sauie. Boil pepper. with cayenne cayenne pepper. teaspoon season with parsley and and season chopped parsley teaspoon chopped A small small alone. A vinegar alone. The with vinegar down with boiled down wine can can be be boiled The wine the remove first rem but first quantity ove the be added, added, but may be quantity of butter may of fresh fresh butter saucepan heat. from heat. saucepan from phsl,n -- Prepare the Prepare the Diable rl DIABLE II. SAUCE s,luce ÀA LA sauce II. devilled sauce Diable or or devilled to which which water to wine in stock stock or or water Pour in as above. above. Pour herbs as wine and and herbs Kneaded with Kneaded Thicken with added. Thicken been added. has been or extract extract has meat glaze or above. offas asabove. BUTTER, Compound butters). Finish Finish off butte i (seeBUTTER, etc. (Englisb Diable sauce III for grilled chicken, etc. or devilled devilled sauce @nglish Diable or (* pint, by half 1| dll(i DTABLE -- Boil down by LA DIABLE A LA nilt' s,c,ucB À cookery). SAUCE shallot vinegar to which 1 tablespoon chopped shallot chopped tablespoon I which to vinegar wine 3 ",rp) added. has been added. sauce Stir generous cup) Espagnole sauce pint, generous cup) Espagnole (scant tI pint, dl. (scant in 2| dl. Stir in puree. Cook and Cook for for 55 (3 tablespoons) tomato purée. tablespoons) tomato tableipoons (3 and 22 tablespoons tableminutes. sauce,1I table· Worcestershire sauce, tablespoon Worcestershire Add 1I tablespoon minutes. Add Strain' cayenne.Strain. littlecayenne. andaaIittle sauce, and Harvey sauce, of Harvey spoon of fisla chigken)' neatfish, ofmeat, (for eggs,small cutsof smdlcuts sauce (for Duxellessauce scant t ct'p) SAUCE tablespoons,scant dl.(6(6tablespoons, DLTXELLES - Sti. in I dl. sAUcE DUXELLES white tablespoons) chopped mushtablespoons (3(3tablespoons) wineto to22tablespoons white wine pint,~ l+ dl. (+pint, rooms Boil down, stirininIf down,stjr prepared as dtielles.Iioil asduxelles. rooms prepared cup) tablespoons, dl.(6(6tablespoons, (seeabove) and11dl. above)and sauce(see Demiglace sauce clurp) Demi-glace Add11 seant moments.Add fewmoments. foraafew purie. Boil Boilfor tomatopurée. cup) tomato scant cup) tablespoon chopped parsley. tablespoonchopped ParsleY. In herbes' auxfinesherbes. sauceauxfines knownasassauce wasknown thiswas times pastthis Intimes basis l!;sl~atl~ole usedasasa abasis rich sauce'used Thisisisa arich demi-glace- *This Espagnoledemi-glace for After adding a specified quantityof9f sauces. After lessersauces. for manylesser white the basic stock and boiling it stocktotothe clearstock oi browncIear whiteor down, the brown sauce becomes very thick, almost jellied' This can be used in the preparation of different brown sauces' Espagnole demi-glace is often replaced by stock or brown veal veal itoik, brought to the right consistency by boiling it down ororby arrowroot. This latter potatoflour flourororarrowroot. withpotato thickening itwith bythickening method goodresult. result. givesa avery verygood methodgives

it

f*

±

I

2t

(for

frangaise au XI)tr sibcle.) sAUcB AUx meat). SAUCE of mest). cuts of small sauce 1I (for sm Fines herbes berbes sauce ail cuts AUX (3 tat)leSipolons) tablespoons) chopped tablespoons (3 Add 22 tablespoons FrNEs FINES TIERBEs HERBES -- Add (f, pint, dl. (t pint, t-cup)strained lf dl. to Ii tarragon to and tarragon parsley, chervil and parsley, chervil p"v1i-glace brown stock. Add a few concentrated brown or concentrated sauce or Demi-glace sauce lemon juice. drops lemonjuice. drops FINES npnnns - Boil down I AUx FINES II. SAUCE slucE AUX sauce II. Flm herbes Fines herbes sauce HERBES - Boil down 1 of handful of with aa handful wine with white wine cup) white (6 tablespoons, scant j cup) dl. (6 tablespoons, seant dl. ($ pint, scant dl. 2 Add leaves. tarragon and p"tiby, chervil parsley, chervil and tarragon Jeaves. Add 2 dl. pint, scant sauce' Tarragon sauce. for Tarragon off as as for Finish off cup) Demi-glace sauce. Finish in Toss in ITERBEsI FINES Arrx sAUcE III. sauce Fines herbes sauce III. SAUCE AUX FINES HERBES -- Toss tabledl. (6 tableAdd 1 dl. shallot. Add chopped shallot. tablespoon chopped butter tableSIPOC)ll (* dl. (~ and add 22 dl. down and boil down white-wine, cup) white scant j cup) spoons, seant wine, boil (l+ g. o?': 40 with Thicken stock. cup) scant (11 oz., 33 frnt, seant cup) stock. Thicken with 40 (see BUTTER, Compound butBUTTER, LOJ'I1p/Jun'a butter (see Kneaded butter iablespoons) Kneaded tablespoons) tablespoon add 1I tat,le!,pcton and add strain, and moments, strain, few moments, Boil for for aa few rers). Boil lers). of drops of few drops and aa few tarragon and and tarragon parsley, chervil chervil and chopped parsley, chopped juice. lemon juice. lemon the like the made like formerly made was formerly saucewas herbes sauce ThiJ Fines Frzes herbes This the recipe is given previously. which the saucefor Duxellessauce Duxelles for which (for fish, chiefly trout and salmon). sAUcE sauce (for Genevoise sauce Genevoise gentlyinin butteia mirepoix of 50 g. (2 oz', Cook gently cENEvoIsE -- Cook GENEVOISE (2OZ., oz.,1.-I cup) diced onion, a stick of 50 g.g.(2 carrot, 50 diced carrot, cup) diced piece of bay leaf and 10 parsley thyme, aapiece of thyme, sprig of *Gry, aa sprig sprigs. an oran small piecesor cutininsmall headeut (18 oz.) salmonhead oz.)salmon Add 500 g.(18 ofother other fish. and trimmings of quantityof ofbones bonesand equal -Cook theIiquid liquid Strainthe for'15 onfof lidon withaa!id slowiywith slowly 15 minutes.Strain good pint,2! cups) good dl.(1(lpint, Add66dl. theseasonings. seasonings.Add discardthe and discard and 21 cups) half. bYhalf. downby boildown andboil redwine wine and red fish onfish basedon sauceIlIIbased Espagnolesauce pint,1l{cups) cups)Espagnole dl.(t$pint, Add33dl. Add for1I heatfor lowheat overlow simmer over andsimmer skim,and theboil, boil,skim, Bringtotothe stock. Bring stock. fishfumet, extrafish addingextra andadding frequentlyand futnet,ifif skimmingfrequently hour,skimming hour,

t

Trim of the fillets before Trim the the fish to the the edge of before cooking. eooking. Soles trimmed in this way way appear smaller, but they are easier to it can serve. If the backbone baekbone is broken broken before cooking eookjng it can be removed removed before before serving. serving. American 'sole' is not the same family as the English The American Dover Dover sole, sole, and differs differs markedly markedly in texture. Lemon sole, dab, be used in the the following win ter flounder and grey sole can be winter recipes. l'américaine -- Split the sole on the side from which Sole ià I'am6ricaine Raise the fillets slightly slightly and break the skin has been removed. Raise of the backbone in two or three places. Season the backbone the Season the inside of fish. gently in a white wine wine fishfumet. Drain. Poach the sole very gently Surround à l'américaine Surround with aa Salpicon it I'amtricaine of lobster or spiny (see SALPICON). Put lobster (see slices of lobs lobster or spiny Put 22 slices ter or lobster wth Américaine Amtricaine sauce sauce (see lobster on top of the sole. Coat with SAUCE) concentrated,fumet and and butter butter have SAUCE) to which sorne some concentratedfumet been added. been This dish is often called Sole àit l'armoricaine, I'armoricaine, since many people think really be be d trunk that Lobster àd l'américaine should really I'arntricaine sbould

sot.Es SOLES

l'armoricaine. I'armoricaine. Sole ài l'amiral -- Only very large soles with thick fillets are prepared in this Brill àd l'amiral under see Brill this way. For the recipes see

BRILL.

t

generally means a grilled sole Sole à I'anglaise -- This name generally i l'anglaise (see accompanied Maitre d'hôtel dhbtel butter (see accompanied by melted butter or Maître potatoes. It BUTTER, It can BUTTER, Compound and boiled boiled potatoes. Compound butters) and also be sole poached poached in salted water and and milk, accompanied accompanied potatoes. butter and boiled potatoes. by melted butter The same same name is applied applied to a sole boned when raw, coated in egg and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, cooked clarified butter and served inclarified cooked in with rathersoft rather soft maître maitre d'hôtel dh6tel butter. Sole à ir l'arlésienne l'arlesienne -- Poach the sole infumet. Garnish with very small tomatoes peeled and cooked in butter, and and sliced artichoke own juices, and and artichoke bottoms cooked in butter and their ownjuices, finished in aa !ittle little cream. To coat the sole, boil down the cooking Iiquor liquor and and add add aa little concentrated tomato pulp mixed mixed with little fish aspicjelly aspic jelly and concentrated butter and aa !ittle butter little grated garlic. Attereaux TTEREAUX DE I'ancienne. AATTEREAUx os SOLES Attereaux of sole ài l'ancienne. sorrs ÀA of sole L'ANCIENNE Season and fillet into 33 or 4 pieces. Season and seal seal L'ANcIENNE -- Cut each fiJlet butter. Thread them skewer, in butter. the pieces on on aa silver silver skewer, Thread the them in alternating the alternating them with sliced trufres and and mushrooms. Dip the skewers (see SAUCE). in egg into Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE). Coat Coat in egg and and skewers into Villeroi sauce breadcrumbs and fry in in clarified clarified butter. Garnish with with fried fried butter. Garnish and fry parsley and quarters of lemon. TTEREAUX DE Attereaux of sole àdr la la moderne. AATTEREAUX on SOLES sorEs À i LA r,a MODERNE in villeroi as above, but without dipping dipping in MoDERNE -- Prepare as sauce. (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or or other other Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see sauce. Serve suitable suitable sauce. Sole Cook the sole sole soLE AUX AUBERcINES -- Cook AUx AUBERGINES Sole with aubergines. SOLE in aubergines with slices slices of of aubergines Surround with in butter àit la la meunière. meunibre. Surround cooked parsley and and Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley cooked with butter or oil. Sprinkle aa few in the hot hot butter butter in and pour over over the few drops of of lemon juice and which the fish was cooked. cooked. afume' over low heat. sole in inafumet over very low Alternatively, poach the sole Drain, in cooked in slices of of aubergines aubergines cooked Drain, wipe, and surround surround with slices butter. Coat with (see SAUCE). in aa SAUCE). Glaze Glaze in wine sauce sauce (see with White White wine hot oven. oven. The talian marrows (Italian marrows The sole sole may be prepared with courgettes (I or in and simmered simmered in cut in in oval oval chunks and or zucchini), cucumbers cut butter, in butter, celeriac saut6ed in butter, celeriac bottoms sautéed butter, sliced sliced artichoke artichoke bottoms quartered pimentos cut in cut in quartered and sweet pimentos in butter, butter, or or sweet and simmered simmered in large cooking the cookjng off the in butter butter or or oil. oil. Drain off large julienne cooked cooked in liquor. with aa and thicken thicken with down by by one-third one-third and liquor. Boil Boil itit down tablespoon good tablespoon tablespoon of of butter. butter. tablespoon kneaded butter. butter. Add aa good Coat glaze in in aa hot hot oven. oven. this sauce sauce and and glaze Coat the the sole sole with with this sole. BARQUETTES, Barquettes DE TARTELETTES DE BARQLJETTEs, TARTELETTES ofsole. Barquettes or or tartlets of

853 853

SOLE SOLE SoIe Colbert Colbert -- Split Split the the sole sole along along the the side side from from wbich which the the Sole has been skin has been removed. removed. Raise Raise the fillets. Break Break the the fillets. the backbone backbone skin places so in two two or or three three places so that that itit may may easily easily be removedafter after be removed in cooking. cooking. Soak the the sole sole in in cold cold boiled boiled milk, milk, flour flour it, it, coat in egg coat in egg and and Soak breadcrumbs. Roll Roll back back the the fiUets fillets on on themselves themselves so so as as to to leave leave breadcrumbs. the backbone backbone free. free. the Fry the the sole, sole, drain drain it, it, remove remove the backbone. Fill Fill the the backbone. the cavity cavity Fry (see BUTTER, Maitre d'hôtel with Maître thitel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). with Croquettes and and kromeskies kromeskies of of sole. sole. CROQUETTES, cRoeuETTEs, Croquettes or SOLES preparations are cRoMEseurs DE sorrs -- These These smaU small preparations served as are served as CROMESQUIS hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d euvre or or aa smaU small entrée. They are entr6e. They are made made like like aa hot given under ordinary croquettes, croquettes, the the recipe recipe for for which which isis given under ordinary HORS-D'(EUVRE. Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre. hors-d euvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Curried sole. sole. SOLE sorB ÀA L'INDIENNEL'TNDTENNE - Spread Spread on on aa baking baking dish dish aa Curried of chopped chopped onions cooked tiU till soft onions cooked soft in in butter, butter, mixed mixed with with layer of (3 tablespoons) peeled, pressed, tablespoons (3 tablespoons) peeled, pressed, chopped chopped 22 tablespoons tomatoes also also cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Season Season with with aa teaspoon teaspoon tomatoes curry. Set Set aa trimmed trimmed sole pour over sole on on top, top, and and pour over itit 22 curry. (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) musbroom mushroom stock. stock. Poacb Poach in in the the tablespoons oven. oyen. (3 tablespoons) to the the cooking cooking liquor liquor 22 tabJespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Add to (see SAUCE) Velouti or or Béchamel Btchamel sauce (see SAUCE) based based on on fish fish stock stock Velouté (4 tablespoons) tablespoons (4 tablespoons) thick thick fresb fresh cream. Boil for for cream. Boil and 3 tablespoons few moments. moments. Finish off offwith teaspoon butter with aa teaspoon aa few butter and and aa few few drops lemonjuice. lemon juice. Coat the fish with with this sauce sauce and and serve serve with with (see RI Indian-style rice (see RICE, Rice àd l'indienne). I'indienne). Indian-styJe CE, Rice for Fillets of of sole sole àd l'indienne I'indienne can Recipes given below for can also also sole. be applied to whole sole. Sole ài la diplomate diplomate -- Split Split the sole, sole, raise raise the fillets, remove remove the fiUets, the backbone, and stuff stuff with (see with aa whiting the backbone, and whiting forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, Fish Fish forcemeat) FORCEMEAT, with cream cream and and diced diced forcemeat) with trufles. Poacb P o ach in afumet a fume t tbat truffles. that is nearly boiling. Drain Drain and and dry. dry. Remove the side bones. bones. Surround Surround by Remove by aa salpicon salpicon of lobster. of lobster. (see SAUCE). sauce (see Coat with with Diplomat sauce SAUCE). Put Put on on top top of of the the glazed with fish aspicjeUy four thick slices oftruffies of truffies glazed (see sole four aspic jelly (see ASPIC, ASPIC, Aspic Aspic offish). dor6e -- See Golden Golden sole below. Sole dorée Filleb of of sole. FILETS FTLETs DE SOLES sot.Es -- Fillets of sole are Fillets are removed when when raw. According According to their final use, the fillets are either left as they they are and flattened rolled after are and flattened lightly, lightly, or or roUed after being being slightly slightly flattened. All AlI methods methods of preparation given for the whole of preparation whole sole, as as weil well as as those given elsewhere for for flat flat fisb fish of various various kinds, kinds, are

applicableto tofilfillets ofsole. sole.These These can canbe beserved servedàdlaIameunière, applicable lets of meuniire, poached and fried, boiled, grilled. They and grilled. boiled, poached Theyare fried, areaccompanied accompanied by by garnishes. various sauces sauces and andgarrushes. various Fillets of ofsole solecan can be rolled up paupiettes, recipes upto berolled Fillets tomake make paupiettes, recipes for which which are are to to be found below. below. be found for Each of ofthe the recipes recipes which which follow followrequires Each requires 88fiJlets. fillets. Fillets of ofsole sole cooked cooked àdlalameunière meunibreor Fillets whitewinefumet orininaawhite winefumet garnishedwith may also also be begamished with aubergines, may aubergines, cucumbers cucumbers eut into cutinto 'pigeons' eggs' pimentos peeled, peeled,eut 'pigeons' eggs'and and cooked cookedinin butter, butter, pimentos cutinin strips and and stewed stewed in in butter strips butter or or oil, oil, tomatoes tomatoeshalved halved and and cooked in in butter butfer or oroil, cooked oil, and and other othervegetables vegetablescooked cooked ininbutter butter or oil, oil, braised, braised, boiled or boiled or orstewed stewedin intheir their ownjuices. own juices. Instead of of coating coating the Instead the fillets fillets with with white white wine winesauce, sauce,they they may be (see SAUCE) may be covered covered with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and and browned browned in in the the oyen. oven. Fillets of Fillets of sole sole ài l'américaine. loam6ricaine. FILETS FTLETS DE opSOLES solss ÀAL'AMÉRICAINE r'.a,Mfnrc^lrNe the folded folded fiJlets --Poach Poach the fillets in in white white wine. Drain them wine. Drain them and finish andfinisb offas described described in offas recipe for in the the recipe for Sole Sole àdl'américaine. I'amtricaine. This dish This dish isis often often served served under under the the name name of of Fillets Fillets of of sole sole àd l'armoricaine. I'armoricaine. FiUets Fillets of of sole sole ài l'ancienne. I'ancienne. FILETS FTLETSDE DESOLES sor.Es ÀAL'ANCIENNE L'ANcrENNr - Coat Coat 88 lightly lightly flattened flattened fillets fillets of of sole sole with with aa thin thin layer layer of of (see FORCEMEA whiting T, Fish whiting forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, Fish forcemeat) to forcemeat) to which which aa third third of of its its weight weight of of dry dry duxelles duxelles has has been been added. added. Fold Fold the the fillets, fillets, and and coat coat with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs; breadcrumbs; cook cook in in cIarified clarified butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in aacircle circle on dish, altemating on aadish, alternating them them with cutlets ofwhiting Ids with little littlecutlets ofwhiting forcemeat forcemeat made inspecial made in special mou moulds and poached. Garnish and poacbed. Garnish the the rniddle middle of of the the dish dish with with aa ragoût ragoitt composed composed of of shrimps, shrimps, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffies bound bound with with fish (see SAUCE), fish Velouté Veloutt sauce sauce (see SAUCE), rnixed mixed with with cream cream and and flavQured flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the fillets fillets with with aa little little Noisette (see BUTTER, Noisette butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Fillets À L'ANGLAISE Fillets of sole ài l'anglaise I'anglaise I.f. FILETS of sole nrrrs DE DE SOLES sot,Es,i, L'ANGLATSE = Flatten Flatten and and season season the the fiJlets fi.llets and and coat coat them them with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Cook in clarified clarified butter. Cook in butter. Coyer Cover with with softened softened Maître (see BUTTER, Maitre d'hôtel d h6tel butter BUTTER, Compound butter (see Compound butters). butters). Serve potatoes. Serve with with boiled boiled or steamed potatoes. or steamed Fillets of of sole sole ài l'anglaise Panglaise II. II. FILETS r'rrErs DE DE SOLES r'eNcr.llsn soI"Es À A L'ANGLAISEFillets of poached in of sole sole poached in salted salted water water and and milk, milk, served served with with boiled potatoes potatoes and melted butter. and melted butter. Fillets Fillets of of sole sole ài l'armoricaine. I'armoricaine. FILETS FrLErs DE DE SOLES soI,Es ÀA L' ARMORJCAINE -- Tbe L'aRMoRrcArxr The same same as as Fillets Fillets of of sole sole àd l'américaine. I'amiricaine. Aspic Aspic of parisienne. ASPIC fillets of of flUets sole ài la la parisienne. of sole Asprc DE DE FILETS FTLETS DE DE SOLES soI,es À A LA LA PARISIENNE eARJsTENNE -- Cook Cook 88 large large fiUets fillets in in aa concentrated concentrated fumet, based on on fish fish stock stock and and made made with with white white wine. wine. Drain Drain fumet, based

How 10 (.Izrozsse) to cul cut fillels fiIlets of sole (Larousse) of sole

How to 10 skin skin fllets fillets of How (Iaronsse) of sole sole (Larousse)

854 854

SOLE LA DE SOLES sot-rs Ài LA FILETs DE la bourguignonne. sole à i la Fillets of sole bourguignonne. FILETS Ia bourguignonne. Prepared like Sole àd la Prepared rA, oe SOLES sorss ÀA LA rtrers DE la cancalaise. cancalaise. FILETS Fillets of of sole sole ài la Fillets flllets and cook them in aa concentrated cANcALATsE - Fold the fillets CANCALAISEpoached for for the the fishfumet, fishfumet, to which the liquor from oysters poached form garnish has been added. Drain, dry, and set them in the form peeled shrimps. shrimps. Put of the dish with peeled Fill the middle of a circle. FijI of rniddle of each fillet. fillet. of each poached and on top top of de-bearded oysters oysters on and de-bearded two poached two (see SAUCE) some to which which sorne SAUCE) to wine sauce sauce (see Coat with with White White wine Coat boiled boiJed downfumet has been added. Stuffthe cARDINAL -- Stuff FILETS DE SOLES sol-Es CARDINAL Fillets of of sole cardinal. cardinal. FILETS the FilJets or forcemeat, finished with lobster or with pike or whiting forcemeat, fillets with poached in nearly that isis nearly in fish fish fumet and poached crawfish butter, butter, and crawfish fumet that boiling. them in aa circle, alternating them dish in circle, alternating Arrange the fillets on on aa dish the fillets Arrange with Cardinal lobster. Coat Coat with Cardinal lobster or or spiny spiny lobster. with slices slices of lobster with (see SAUCE) some of of the concentratedfumet concentratedfumet SAUCE) to which sorne sauce (see coral. chopped lobster lobster coral. Sprinkle with chopped has been added. Sprinkle LA CA cATALANE FILETs DE SOLES sot.Es À A LA of sole sole à i la catalane. FILETS Fillets of TALA NE-mixed breadcrumbs mixed egg and and breadcrumbs flattened fillets with egg Coat lightly flattened Set in half half oil, half butter. Set parsley. Cook Cook in oil, halfbutter. with aa little chopped parsley. (see FONDUE) with aa FONDUE) seasoned seasoned with Tomatofondue on fondue (see on aa layer of of Tomato saut6ed in in oil. oil. garlic. Surround aubergines sautéed with diced diced aubergines Surround with little little garlic. with peeled lemon fillet. Sprinkle Sprinkle with of each each fillet. lemon on on top of of peeled Put aa slice of the cooking butter. os wine. FILETS rILnts DE other red red wine. Chambertin or or other Fillets of of sole sole with Chambertin Poach vIN ROUGE RoucE -- Poach cRAND VfN ou AUTRE AUTRE GRAND SOLES soI,Es AU AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTIN OU (Chambertin, with red red wine wine (Chambertin, made with the the fillets fillets in in aa fish fish fumet fumet made red BurBurother fine fine red Corton or or other Vougeot, Corton Mâcon, Romande, Vougeot, Mdcon, Romanée, (see below). gundy) as below). gundy) Sole with wine (see for,So/e with red redwine as for of usually composed composed of garnish for fillets of of sole sole isis usually The The garnish for these these fillets glazed onions. or the the The whole whole sole sole or onions. The mushroorns and small small glazed mushrooms and garnished with soft soft be garni shed with fillets red wine wine may may also also be fillets cooked cooked with with red quenpike quencrayfish, pike or crayfish, roes, truffies, shrimps shrimps or roes, mushrooms, mushrooms, truffles, elles, elles. etc. etc.

and cool under under pressure. pressure. Cut each into two pieces and and coat and wrth with White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate with and glaze with jelly. of truffie truffle and jelly. Set in an aspic cut-out pieces of mould mould lined with fish fish jelly jelly and decorated on the bottom bottorn and and against the sides. The fillets should be arranged upright, one against sides. middle of of the the mould rnould with a Parisian salad salad (see other. Fill the middle SALAD) dressed dressed with thick mayonnaise. Cover with a layer SALAD) of fish fish jelly, jelly. Set on on ice. ice. of directly onto or on a base of Turn out out the aspic aspic either eitherdirectly onto a dish or Turn rice or or a buttered crofiton croûton of of bread. bread. Decorate with qquartered uartered rice Surround with bard-boiled eggs eggs and and small small lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Surround hard-boiled cbopped jelly. chopped FilJets of of sole sole Bercy. Bercy. FILETS SOLES BERCY FILETS DE solns BERcy -- Proceed, using Fillets Sole Bercy. Bercy. fillets, as for So/e sol-Es BOUILLIS, BouILLIs, Fillets of of sole, boiled or poached. FILETS DE SOLES tr'illets pocnfs pocHÉS - Poach Poach the flattened fillets in salted water and milk. Serve with melted butter or sorne Drain. Serve some other sauce such as Hollandaise or Cream Cre am sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Butter, Hollandaise Arrange Fillets of of sole sole Boitelle. BoitelJe. FILETs FILETS DE SOLES BoITELLE -- Arrange soI-Es BOITELLE Fillets folded and and seasoned seasoned in aa circle in aa buttered sauté saut6 pan the folded (4 oz., g. (4 For 88 fillets fillets add fiUets. For 100 g. oz., 22 cups) cups) chopped chopped fillets. add 100 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fish tablespoons) concentrated fish mushrooms, 2 tablespoons pan fumet and on juice. juice. Poach, keeping keeping the pan lemon and a squeeze of of lem fumet covered. covered. Arrange the Arrange the fillets in a deep dish, put the mushrooms in the (2 oz., g, (2 middle and pour over the pan juices to which oz., 44 which 50 50 g. tablespoons) butter have been added. tablespoons) Fillets of bonne femme. FILETS L,l BONNE soNNe sor,Es À i, LA FILETS DE SOLES of sole ài la bonne FEMME -- Using fiat prepare like Sole la bonne bonne sole, prepare Sole àd la FEMME flat fillets of sole, femme. femme. Fillets LA DE SOLES soLEs À A LA nIrErs DE Fillets of la bordelaise. bordelaise. FILETS of sole sole ài la BORDELAISE in aa buttered fish fish them in the fiUets, fillets. set set thern BoRDELAISE -- Season Season the garni. kettle with slices and onion onion and and aa bouquet garni. kettle with slices of carrot carrot and Moisten with a glass of red Bordeaux. Poach for 88 minutes. minutes. peeled Drain dish with with peeled set them them on on aa dish Drain the the fillets fillets and and set mushroorns glazed onions. small glazed onions. mushrooms and small Boil down the cooking liquor, adding (3 tablespoons (3 adding to itit 22 tablespoons tablespoons) (see SAUCE). Beat butter butter sauce (see SAUCE). Beat tablespoons) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce into this sauce, strain, and coat the fillets. fillets. and coat Border of fillets DE DE FILETS FILETS DE la dauphine. BORDURE BoRDURE DE fiIlets of sole sole ài la SOLES of is served under the the name of This dish is served under LA DAUPHINE DAUpHINT -- This sorns À A LA Fillets of la dauphine. dauphine. of sole sole à d la Border of flUets DE BoRDURE DE DE FILETS FILETS DE sole diplomate. diplomate. BORDURE fillets of sole SOLES made with with in aa fumet Poach the the fillets fillets in DIILoMATE -- Poach sot,Es DIPLOMATE fumet made white wine. made moulded border made and set set on on aa rnoulded wine. Drain, Drain, wipe, wipe, and with whiting (see FORCEMEAT, FORCEMEAT, Fishforcemeat), Fishforcemeat), whiting forcemeat forcemeat (see alternating truffies. Surround Surround round truffles. with slices slices of of round the fillets fillets with alternating the the (see of Diplomat Diplomat sauCt! sauce (see few spoonfuls spoonfuls of the border border with with aa few SAUCE). of lobster. dish with aa salpicon salpicon oflobster. of the dish SAUCE). Fill Fill the middle of Coat the liquor, boiled boiled with the the cooking cooking liquor, the truffles truffies with the fillets anq and the down, added. down. with butter added.

BouRGUIGNoNNEBOURGUIGNONNE -

Fillets Fillets of soleChauchat Chauchat ofsole

Fillets Cook DE SOLES cH.c,ucHlr - - Cook FILETs DE soLES CHAUCHAT Fillets of of sole sole Chauchat. Chauchat. FILETS juice, without rolled them letting them lemon juice, without letting and lernon rolled fillets fillets in in butter butter and (seeSAUCE). brown. SAUCE). Surround Surround sauce (see with Mornay Mornay sauce brown. Cover Cover with grated with potatoes. Sprinkle with gratéd Sprinkle with sliced fried fried potatoes. with aa border of sliced border of cheese, and brown. brown. cheese, dot dot with with butter butter and Fillets Y - - Cook rolled Cook rolled DESOLES sot.Es CHlVR cHIvRY FILETs DE Filtets of of sole sole Chivry. Chivry. FILETS fillets fish fumet. and concentrated concentrated fish shallot and chopped shallot fillets with with chopped fumet. Drain, with them with dish, alternating alternating them inaacircle circle on on aadish, Drain, and and arrange arrange in heart-shaped with in butter. Coat with fried in butter. Coat of bread bread fried heart-shaped croûtons cro0tons of Chivry (see SAUCE). of round the the fillets fillets aaborder border of Pour round SAUCE). Pour sauce (see Chivry sauce Fishjelly Y). (see JELL JELLY). Fish jelly (see Fillets sole Fillets of ofsole DESOLES soLES FROIDS FRoIDS - - Fillets nurs DE Fillets of of sole, sole, cold. cold. FILETS (see can (see ASPIC); rings (see prepared asas aspics ASPIC); rings aspics (see can be be prepared BORDERS, glazed with Chamwith Chambertin, Chambertin, CbamBORDERS, Cold rings);glazed Cold rings);

Fillets Fillets of cardinal of sole solecardinal

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SOLE SOLE jelly; as pagne or (like Salmon or jelly; as aa mayonnaise mayonnaise (like Salmon mayonnaise) mayonnaise);; as as pagne (like Lobster salad Inbster or or Spiny Spiny lobster lobster salad). salad). Cold Cold sole sole can can aa saI ad (like also be be made made into intopdtts and terrines. terrines. also pâtés and Filleb of (zucchini) J.I. FILETS of sole sole with with courgettes courgettes (zucchini) rurrs DE DESOLES soI.Es Fillets AUx COURGETTES coURGETTES -- Cook Cook the the flattened flattened fillets fillets ài lala meunière. meuniire. AUX Surround with with courgettes courgettes cut in thick cut in thick slices, slices, cooked cooked in in butter butter Surround or oil. oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with parsley and with chopped chopped parsley and aa few few drops drops of of or lemon juice. Pour Pour over over the the cooking cooking butter, butter, very very hot. hot. lemonjuice. Fillets of of sole sole with with courgettes (zucchini) II. courgeffes (zucchini) II. FILETS rrrnrs DE DESOLES sot,Es Fillets AUx COURGETTES couRcnrrEs -- Cook Cook the the folded folded fiUets fillets in in fishfumet fishfumet made made AUX with white white wine. wine. Surround Surround them them with with slices slices of of courgettes courgettes with cooked in in butter. butter. Coat (seeSAUCE) Coat with with White White wine wine sauce sauce (see to cooked SAUCE) to some concentrated which some concentrated fumet has been been added. added. Glaze Glaze in in aa which fumet has hot oven. oven. hot Fillets of of sole sole Crécy. Cr6cy. FILETS FTLETS DE DE SOLES soI,ns cRÉCY cR6cy -- Poach Poach the the Fillets rolled fiJlets fillets in in fish fish fumet. Drain them. them. Coat Coat with with aa sauce sauce rolled fumet. Drain made by by boiling boiling down down the the cooking cooking liquid liquid and and adding adding 22 made tablespoons'(3 (see SAUCE) tablespoons) Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAU-E) tablespoons' (3 tablespoons) (3 tablespoons) and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) carrot purde. carrot purée. and Garnish with with small small new new carrots, glazed. carrots, glazed. Garnish Fillets of of sole sole Cubat. Cubat. FILETS FrLErs DE DE SOLES sot,Es CUBA cuBAT Cook the the T -- Cook Fillets flattened fillets fillets in in mushroom mushroom stock stock and and butter. butter. Set Set them them on on aa flattened fireproof dish. dish. Coat with thick Coat with thick Mushroom (see purte (see Mushroom purée fireproof PUREE). Put Put 22 slices slices of of truffle truffie on on each each fillet. fillet. Coat Coat with with PURÉE). (see SAUCE) Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. Mornay Fillets of of sole sole Daumont. Daumont. FILETS FTLETs DE DE SOLES solEs DAUMONT DAUMoNT -- Spread Spread FilJets the sole (pike or sole fillets fillets with with fish fish forcemeat forcemeat (pike or whiting) whiting) fini finished the shed (see BUTTER, off with with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters.) butters.) off Poach them them in nearly nearly boiling boiling fishfumet. Drain Drain and and dry. dry. Poach Set on a dish, each each fiJlet fillet placed on on top of of aa large mushroom mushroom Set cap cooked in butter and filled with aa Salpicon cooked in Salpicon of of crayfish crayfish(see cap (see CRAYFISH). CRAYFISH). Coat with with Normande (see SAUCE). Normande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Gamish Garnish with with Coat soft roes roes coated coated with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs and and sautéed saut6ed in in soft butter. FrLErs DE DE SOLES sor,Es DAUPHINE DAUIHTNE -- Poach Fillets of sole dauphine. FILETS the rolled fillets in in Madeira Madeira which which has has had had truffle trufle and and the rolled fillets mushroom skins skins infused in in it. it. Cool, Cool, drain, drain, and and mask mask with mushroom (see SAUCE) Villeroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE) which which has has had had some some of of the the Villeroi cooking liquor Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound cooking liquor and Crayfish fry in in clarified and fry added. Coat with with breadcrumbs and butters) added. butter. butter. Drain and set on a moulded border of (see of Pikeforcemeat Pike forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) cooked in a ring mould in a bain marie. Put marie.Put in of the ragoitt composed composed of in the the middle middle of the dish dish aa ragoût of cooked mushrooms, little pike quenelles, crayfish and sliced truffles, truffies, bound (see SAUCE). Serve with Velouti sauce sauce (see bound with thick thick Velouté Nantua sauce. Fillets sol-Es À A LA DrEpporsE Fillets of of sole sole ià la dieppoise. dieppoise. FTLETS FILETS DE SOLES DIEPPOISECook Cook the fillets in a nearly boiling boiling fishfumet. fishfumet. Drain and dry. Surround Surround with with a a Dieppoise garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) composed composed of of shelled mussels cooked in white wine and and grey or (see or pink pink shelled shelled crayfish. crayfish. Coat with with White White wine wine sauce (see SAUCE) to which which the boiled boiled down cooking cooking liquor liquor from the fillets fillets and mussels mussels has has been been added. added. Fillets Fillets ofsole of sole ià la la diplomate. diplomate. FTLETs FILETS DE DE soI.Es SOLES A À LA LA DTrLoMATE DIPLOMATE --See See Border Border offittets offillets of ofsole sole dà la diplomate. diplomate. Fillets Fillets of of sole sole ià l'espagnole. l'espagnole. FTLETs FILETS DE DE soLE SOLE A À r'rspAcrsore L'ESPAGNOLESeason Season the the fillets fillets with with salt and paprika. Flour Flour and fry in oil. Set bed of of tomatoes tomatoes that have been peeled, Set on a dish on a bed drained, chopped, chopped, cooked cooked in in oil, oil, and and seasoned with with salt, salt, paprika paprika and and a little little garlic. garlic. Put Put at at each each end end of of the the dish sweet sweet pimentos, pimentos, peeled, cut in strips and fried fried in in oil, oil, and and place place on on top top of of the the fillets slices slices of strips and onion onion floured floured and and fried fried in in oil. oil. Fillets of sole sole ià la la f6campoise. fécampoise. nmm FILETS DE DE soI-Es SOLES A A LA LA Fillets of rEca,upolsr Name sometimes sometimes given given to to Fillets Fillets of of sole d à la FÉCAMPOISE -- Name trouvillaise. trouvillaise.

Fillets of ofsole florentine. FILETS soleài lala florentine. FTLETsDE ne SOLES rn sorrs ÀALA FiUets FLoRINTINE - - Cook Cook seasoned seasoned fillets filletsininbutter butterand andlemonjuice, lemon juice, FLORENTINE

without the the addition addition of/umet. of fumet. without Seton onaafireproof fireproofdish onaalayer layerof ofblanched leafspinach, Set dish on blanched leaf spinach, (see drained and andsimmered simmered in inbutter. butter. Coat Coatwith withMornay Mornay sauce sauce(see drained gratedParmesan SAUCE).Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan and melted and aalittle SAUCE). little melted butter. Brown Brown inin the theoven. oven. butter. Fillets of of sole, sole, fried. fried. FILETS nrnrs DE DESOLES FRrrs- - Prepare Preparelike like soI-Es FRITS Fillets other fried fried fish. fish. other Fried fillets fillets of sole are garnished ofsole are arrange arrange ininaamound mound and Fried and garnished parsley and with fried fried parsley lemon. They and lemon. They may may also alsobe with becooked cooked on on metal skewers. skewers. metal

goujons Fillets sole en Fillets of ofsole en goujons

Fillets of goujons. FILETS Fillets of sole sole en FTLETs DE en goujons. eN GOUJONS DE SOLES sol-Es EN GouroNs -- Cu Cutt the the fillets diagonally diagonally across pieces 22 cm across in in pieces inch) wide. cm Ci Dip wide. Dip Q inch) these these in in milk, milk, drain, drain, and and flour flour them, them, shaking shaking weil well to to remove remove excess excess flour. flour. Fry Fry in in deep deep fat fat or or oil. oil. Drain and and add parsley and Garnish with add salt. salt. Garnish with fried fried parsley and lemon. lemon. prepared in Sole Sole fillets fillets prepared in this garnish this way way are are often often used used as as garnish for large braised fish. fish. Fillets Fillets of gratin. FiLETS of sole sole au au gratin. FTLETs DE DE SOLES sor,Es AU AU GRATIN GRATTN -Prepare, using slightly slightly flattened flattened fillets, gratin. fillets, as as Sole Sole au au gratin. Fillets of sole, grilled. gri[ed. FILETS FTLETs DE DE SOLES sot,Es GRILLÉS cRlrrfs -- Flatten Flatten the the fillets fillets slightly slightly and and season season them. them. Brush Brush with with oil oil or melted or melted butter and cook under grill at under the grill moderate heat. at aa moderate heat. Surround Surround with slices oflemon of lemon and and small small sprigs sprigs offresh of fresh parsley. Grilled fillets fillets of sole sole are are usually accompanied accompanied by by melted melted butter butter or softened Maître (see BUTTER, or softened Maitre d'hôtel d hOtel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). They may may also be be served served with one one of of the the sauces recommended recommended for grilled fish. It is customary to serve serve boiled potatoes with grilled grilled fillets fillets of of sole, as as weil well as as mushrooms, tomatoes, etc. etc. FiUets Fillets of of sole ài la hongroise. FILETS FTLETs DE SOLES soI,Es À A LA r,c, HONGROISE HoNcnorsr -- Put the folded fillets, seasoned seasoned with salt and paprika, into aa sauté pan pan with (2 oz., g. (2 sauti with 50 50 g. o2.,1t cup) finely finely chopped chopped onion onion ".rp)aa peeled, cooked until until soft cooked soft in in butter, peeled, drained butter, with with drained and and crushed tomato, seasoned crushed tomato, paprika, added seasoned with with paprika, added when when the the on ion is almost tablespoons (1 fishfumet onion (* cup) almost cooked. Add 4 4 tablespoons cup) frshfumet made with white wine. Cover, and and cook cook ail all together. Drain the fillets and arrange arrange in aa ring, alternating alternating them with with heartheartcroûtons. shaped crofitons. Pour over the fillets the cooking Pour cooking liquor, boiled boiled down down and and mixed with 4 tablespoons (* (1 cup) thick fresh mixed cup) thick fresh cream, cream, with with butter and aa squeeze squeeze of oflemonjuice added. butter lemon juice added. and cooked Potatoes cut to look like olives and cooked in in butter butter and and water may may be be added to this dish, set set in the the middle middle of the ring. water of the ring. of sole sole ià J'indienne J. rnrrs FILETS DE DE SOLES À L'INDIENNE Fillets of Fillets I'indienne I. solEs A r'ruornNun -fiJ1-et into two pieces and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Divide each fillet

856 8s6 Table piece piece with with aa hunting hunting theme theme (Collection (Collection air air de de chasse. chasse. Phot. Phol. Nicolas) Table Nicolas)

SOLE SOLE Set Set the the fillets fiJlets on aa bed bed of rice ri ce dà l'indienne l'indienne and pour pour aa Curry Curry saucebased saULe based on on fish fish stock (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) round. round. Fillets Fillets of of sole sole ià I'indienne l'indienne II. rrrnrs FILETS DE DE sot,Es SOLES AÀ r'rNoreNxn L'INDIENNECut Cut the the fillets fiJlets into into narrow narrow strips and and into into aa little little knot. knot. Prepare Prepare separately the the following following coulis:

Fillets FiUets of of sole sole Marivaux. Marivaux. FrLErs FILETS DE DE soLE SOLE MARTVAUx MARlVAUX - Poach Poach the the folded folded fillets fiJlets infumet infumet that that is is nearly boiling. boiling. Drain Drain and and set set them on on aa dish in in the the middle middle of of aa border of of Duchess Duchess potato potato them

n.

(see POTATOES) POT A TOES) piped piped through through aa forcing forcing bag bag on on mixture (see top top of of aa layer layer of of chopped Mushrooms Mushrooms cooked cooked in in crearn cream (see (see MUSHROOMS) MUSHROOMS) mixed mixed with with chopped chopped truffies. truffies. Coat Coat with with aa light Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Brush Brush the the border border with with egg, egg, light sprinkle with grated Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. sprinkle Fillets FiUets of sole iil la la meuniire. meunière. FTLETS FILETS nr DE sorts SOLES AÀu LA runuNdnEMEUNIÈREFlat Flat fillets flllets fried fried in in butter butter as as for for So/e Sole ità la la meunibre. meunière.

Cook 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) chopped onion onion in in butter until soft. Add aa small eating apple, peeled and and cut cut in in dice, a medium-sized tomato, peeled and pressed, pressed, aa little little grated grated garlic, garlic, a sprig of thyme, thyme, and and aa powdered powdered bay bay leaf. leaf. Sprinkle dl. $ cup) coconut Sprinkle with with curry. curry. Pour Pour in in ljItdl. (t pint, pint J~cup) cocon ut milk milk or or milk milk of of almonds. almonds. Season. Season. Cook Cook for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Stir Stir in in l| 1 dl. dl. (f (t pint, pint, 31 cup) thick thick cream, cream, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, and and add add aa "np) squeeze sq ueeze of of lemon lemon juice. j uice. Put Put the the twists twists of of sole sole fillets fiUets to to cook cook in in this this sauce. sauce. Serve Serve with with Rice Rice hà I'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). RICE). Fillets FiUets of of sole sole d la la Jacques. Jacques. FTLETs FILETS DE DE soI-Es SOLES A À rl LA rlceuns JACQUES'Put 'Put in in a a deep deep saucepan some some chopped chopped onion onion that that has has previously previously been been cooked in in butter butter till till soft, soft, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz.,"1l!1 cups) cups) sliced sliced potato potato and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 2j 21 cups) cups) sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. 'Pour 'Pour in in aa little !ittle white white wine wine andfishfume/. and Season with with salt salt Season and and pepper and and add add aa bouquet bouquet garni. garni. Cook, boiling boiling rapidly. rapidly. 'When the the potatoes potatoes are are three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, put put into into the the saucepan sole, each saucepan 88fillets fillets of ofsole, each cut eut in in two. two. Add Add aa small small pinch pinch of of powdered powdered saffron saffron and and cook cook briskly briskly for for 66 minutes. minutes. Take Take out out the the fillets. fiJlets. Boil Boil down down the the liquid liquid ififnecessary. necessary. 'To 'To serve, serve, arrange arrange the the potatoes potatoes and and mushrooms mushrooms in in aa deep deep dish, dish, put put the the fillets fiJlets on on top, top, sprinkle sprinkle with with the the cooking cooking liquor, liquor, chopped chopped parsley parsley and and chervil.' chervil.' (Azema.) (Azéma.) Fillets Fillets of of sole sole Joinville. Joinville. FTLETs FILETS DE DE sor.Es SOLES JorNvrLLE JOINVILLE -- Poach Poach the the folded folded fillets fillets in fumet that that isis nearly nearly boiling. Drain, and arrange arrange them them in in aa circle on on aa dish, dish, placing them with the points in the points upwards upwards instead instead of ofin the usual usual way. way. Fix a peeled pink shrimp shrimp on on the the tip tip of ofeach each fillet. fi li et. Put Put in in the the middle middle of ofthe the circle circle aa Joinville Joinvillegarnish garnish composed cOlnpos(~d of of shrimps, shrimps, mushrooms mushrooms and and diced diced truffies, truffies, all ail bound with with Joinville Joinville sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Coat Coat the the fillets fillets with with Joinville Joinville sauce to which has has been been added added some sorne of of the the concentrated concentrated sauce to cooking cooking liquor. liquor. Put Put on on each each fillet fillet aa slice slice of oftruffie truffie glazed glazed with with fish fish jelly. jelly. Fillets FILETS DE DE sol.Es SOLES EN EN JULTENNE JULIENNE -FiUets of of sole sole en en julienne. FrLErs Prepared Prepared and and fried fried llke Fillets Fillets of ofsole soleen engoujons, goujons, but but the the fillets fillets are are cut eut more more finely. finely. Fillets Fillets of ofsole sole Marguery. Marguery. FTLETs FILETS DE DE sot.Es SOLES MARGUERv MARGUER Y- This This isis the the recipe recipe given given by by M. M. Mangin, Mangin, who who for for some some thirty thirty years years was was head head chef chefof ofthe the celebrated celebrated Restaurant Restaurant Marguery, at at the the time time when when M. M. Marguery Marguery directed directed the the establishment establishment himself. 'Fillet 'Fillet two two fine fine soles. soles. Use Use the the bones bonesand andtrimmings tnTYlTYlln'o pfnrcouhom P6rigord soupE Périgord. soup soup 'sobrol1ade'. SOUPE PElUGOU"RDINE 'sobronade'. 'SoBRoNADE''SOBRONADE' - This This dish dish constitutes consritules aa solid dish dish rather rather than than aCl. soup. soup. Soak Soak 750 750 g. g. (If, (l~ lb,, lb:, 4 cups) cups) white white beans beans in in cold water water and put put them them into into aa big big saucepan. saucepan. Cover Coyer with with cold cold water. warer. Add Add 500 500 g. lb.) fresh g. (generous (generous Ilib.) fresh pork, pork, fat fat and and lean, lean, and and 250 250 g. (9 (9 oz.,1 oz., 1 cup) ham ham cut cur into into small small pieces. Bring to lo the the boil boÎl and skim. skim. Add one one or or two two turnips cut in in thick slices (one-third (one-third of of these these previously previously fried, fried, fricasste fricassée with with chopped chopped fat fat bacon), bacon), 33 carrots carrots and and aa quartered quartered stalk stalk of ofcelery, celery, an an onion onion studded studded with with 22 cloves, cloyes, aa bouquet bouquet garni and chopped garlic garlic and parsley. parsley. Season Season with with salt salt and pepper and and cook, covered. covered. Boil g. (9 (9 oz.,l oz., j cups) cups) potatoes potatoes cut eut Boil for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Add 250 250 g. in in thick thick slices. slices. Cook Cook on on low low heat heat for for l| hours. hours. Pour Pour this this soup soup 'into into aa tureen t ureen over over thin thin slices slices of ofstale stale bread, Tourah TOl1:ram perigourdin (P6rigord (Périgord cookery) - Make a fricaste by by frying frying 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.,lf oz., li cups) cups) finely finely sliced onions onlons in in fat, fat,

11

colouring colouring them them slightly slightly but but not not allowing allowing them them to to brown. brown. Sprinkle add 22 crushed crushed cloves claves Sprinkle with with aa good good tablespoon tablespoon flour, f1om, add of of garlic, moisten moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons boiling boiling water waler and and mix until until smooth. smooth. Cook Cook 22big, big, seeded seeded tomatoes tomatoes in in 22 litres litres (3j (3-!- pints, pints, 4j 41 pints) pints)

882 882

AND BROTHS SOUPS AND SOUPS (2! oz., g. (2t flour. Season Season with salt, o2.,31cup) fiour. cup) cup) butter and 65 g. for aa sugar. Boil for pepper and and cinnamon. Add aa teaspoon of sugar. few minutes. piping (} pint, 1CUP) lf dl. (i with'lt Bind with 3 cup) thick cream and pour piping hot over slices of of toast. porAcE DE (U.S.A. beet) I'allemande. POTAGE DE Beetroot (U.S.A. beet) soup soup à l'aUemande. Beetroot Peel aa raw raw beetroot, cut BETTERAVE r?e.rrruaNon -- Peel cut itit into A L'ALLEMANDE BETTERA VE À g, (2 (2 oz., casserole with 50 50 g. o2.,f, chunks, and bake in the oven in a casserole ± ofsalt. butter and a pinch of salt. cup) butter add one-third of one-third of of its volume of through a fine sieve and add Rub through potato purée, pur6e, prepared as described in the recipe for for Purée of Purte of potato potato patata soup. Place over moderate soup with with consommé. consomm6. Place over aa moderate the soup Dilute the (2| to g. (2t to 66 from 65 65 to to 80 80 g. to 33 oz., oz., 55 to heat, season, season, and and add add from heat, fried in in butter. cro0tons fried Serve with croûtons tablespoons) fresh butter. Serve tablespoons) porAcE DE r,c, RUSSE nusse DE BETTERAVE BETTERAvE ÀA LA Beetroot soup ài la russe. POTAGE Beetroot volume of its volume into julienne. Add one-third of Cut a raw beetroot into into julienne. of onion and celery, also cut into (2 oz., g. (2 with 50 oz., casserole with 50 g. Soften Soften the vegetables slowly in aa casserole When they they teaspoon sugar. sugar. When of salt and and aa teaspoon ±* cup) butter, aa pinch of (2f; pints, pints, 3± pints) chicken chicken litres (2~ 3| pints) cooked, add are are cooked, add 1t litres fat and and add add offsurplus Boil for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Skim Skim off consommé. surplus fat consomm6. Boil fried in butter. soup, with with croûtons cro0tons fried chervil leaves to the soup, chervilleaves porAGE BORTSCH' in Soften slowly slowly in Polish borsch. POTAGE BoRrscHpoloNars Polish POLONAIS-- Soften (7 g. (7 part of2 200 g. white part of Zleeks, a julienne of onion, the the white butter ajulienne leeks, 200 of 1I onion, (9 oz.) (U.S.A. g. (9 raw beetroot oz.) raw beetroot (U.S.A. oz.) 250 g. oz.) head head of cabbage, cabbage,250 (3f Cover with with 22 litres litres (3-t and aa parsnip. Cover beet), aa stalk stalk of of celery celery and 4j pints) white consomm6. white consommé. pints, 4t

water with salt and and pepper. Drain the the tomatoes, stock or water them and and add to the stock. Add the fricass0e fricassée to the mash them Thicken with a liaison liaison Simmer steadily for for 45 minutes. Thicken stock. Simmer of2 yolks diluted diluted with a few tablespoons tablespoons stock. stock. Pour into 2 egg egg yolks of soup tureen tureen over over thin slices slices of of home-made home-made bread. bread. a soup ail onion onion soups, the P6rigord Périgord tourain can be grafinhe. gratinée. Like all layer of Pour it into a deep dish over slices of bread, each layer which has has been been sprinkled sprinkled with with grated grated Gruydre Gruyère cheese. which Sprinkle the the surface surface with grated grated cheese and slowly brown brown the Sprinkle top in the the oven. top Put 1I D'ÉPEAUTRE -- Put soup (Provengal (Provençal cookery). SOUPE souPE D'fPn.nutRE Spelt soup kg. (2± lb.) shoulder or leg of of mutton into a saucepan. Cover kg.Qilb.) litres (5f (5± pints, 6t boil and with 3 litres 6j pints) water, bring to the boil an onion with 2 cloves, 2 carrots, carrots,'l1 turnip, studded with skim. Add an onion studded of celery, 1I clove clove of of garlic and season with salt. I1 leek, I1 stalk of Add 4 handfuls spelt (a kind kind of chaffy with small chaffy wheat with brownish grain). Simmer Simmer very gently for 3 hours. brownish r.{ la bretonne. bretonne. SOUPE Whiting soup rr,tnnr,lN À A LA souPE DE or MERLAN Whiting soup ài la (Breton bouilBRETONNE -- This soup is is aa kind triade (Breton kind of co cotriade BREToNNE labaisse). It is is prepared prepared in the same manner as the latter, using labaisse).It whitings cut in chunks, potatoes, and all the aromatic aromatic herbs and ail whitings that dish. It can, in fact, be considered characteristic as aa considered as characteristic of ofthat garlic or kind of bouillabaisse or oil, garlic made without tomatoes, oil, kind bouillabaisse made saffron. (See COTRIADE.)

INTERNATIONAL SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS.

i

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l|

pOT.c,GES ET POTAGES ET

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SOUPES Ernc.Ncnns souPEs ÉTRANGERS-

Beer soup (German cookery). SOUPE t Stir 1l$ soupr ÀA LA rl BIÈRE sdRE -- Stir (2 oz., litres (2~ (2| pints, 3i g, (2 oz., f, light beer 3| pints) light beer into a roux of 50 g;

i

Onion (Robcrt Carrier) Onion soup soup (Rober, Canier)

883 883

SOUPS AND AND BROTHS BROTHS SOUPS sour cream cream and and serve. serve. Mushroom Mushroom patties patties or or buckwheat buckwheat sour crottons may mayaccompany accompany the the borsch. borsch. croûtons porAGEBA (Russian cookery). Botvinya (Russian cookery).POTAGE BArwrNrA Boil'l kg. Botvinya TWINlA - - Boil" 1 kg. (2 lb.) lb.) fish (* lb.) fishand and leave leave to cool. Cook to cool. Cook 350 350g.g.G lb.) spinach spinach and (2 and (+ lb.) 225g.g. (1 lb.) sorrel sorrel separately separately and rub them them through and rub through aasieve. sieve. 225 Cut fresh fresh cucumbers gratesorne cucumbers into into strips, strips, grate some horseradish horseradishand Cut and chop sorne some spring spring ornons. Amalgamate the onions. Amalgamate the spinach spinachand chop and the the pur6es, season sorrel purées, pepper, add season with with salt saltand and pepper, sorrel addaalittle little sugar sugar teaspoonful of and aa teaspoonful of lemon lemon zest zest and and dilute dilute with with aalittle and little white white wine. wine. Pour the the botvinya plates. Cut botvinya into into aa tureen tureenor into plates. Pour fish or into Cut the the fish portions and into portions put on garnish with and put on aa dish, dish, garnish into with fresh freshcucumcucumbers, spring spring ornons, onions, horseradish horseradish and bers, and chopped chopped dil!. dill. Surround Surround the fish fish with with cooked cooked crayfish crayfish ta tails the ils and and lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Serve Serve with ice ice cubes in aa bowl, cubes in bowl, and and aasauceboat sauceboat of with of soured soured cream. cream. Potage Camaro Camaro ài la la brésilienne br6silienne -- Truss Potage ken as Truss aachic chicken as for for an an put itit into entr6e and and put into an entrée an earthenware earthenware casserole. casserole. Coyer Cover with with water. Bring Bring to to the the boil, water. boil, skim, skim, season season and andadd add aa bouquet of bouquet of parsley, chervil chervil and and aa medium-sized medium-sized onion. parsley, onion. Cook Cook for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. (*cup) Add 44 tablespoons tablespoons (t rice and Add cup) rice gently, and cook, cook, simmering simmering gently, for 22 or or 33 hours, for hours, depending depending on on the the tenderness tenderness of of the the bird. bird. t]ntruss the Put itit back the chicken. Untruss chicken. Put back into into the the casserole serve. casserole and and serve. (German cookery). SOUPE Cherry soupI Cberry soup I (Germancookery). soupr AUX AUx CERISES cnmsss -- Put Put in in (generous'l1 lb.) g. (generous stewpan 500 aa stewpan 500 g. stoned cherries, lb.) of of stoned cherries, with with 22 dl. dl. pint, scant (t$ pint, piece of scant cup) hot water, cup) hot water, aa small small piece of cinnamon cinnamon bark bark piece oflemon and aa small small piece peel. Cook and of lemon peel. Cook over high heat over aa high for 88 to to heat for l0 minutes. minutes. Press 10 Press the the cherries through aa fine cherries through fine sieve. sieve. pur6e with (scant 1j pint, Dilute this Dilute this purée pint, generous generous cup) with 21 2! dl. dl. (scant cup) previously boiled Bordeaux wine, Bordeaux shed cherry wine, previously with the boiled with the cru crushed cherry stones stones and and then then strained strained through through muslin. muslin. Mix, Mix, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, and and bind potato flour bind with with aa teaspoon teaspoon potato flour blended blended with with aa little cold cold water. water. Stir Stir in in aa small pour very small spoonful spoonful of sugar and of sugar very hot hot into into the and pour the tureen. tureen. Add Add sorne some rusks broken into into small pieces. small pieces. Cherry Cherry soup soup II. (generous g. (generous II. SOUPE soupE AUX AUx CERISES cERrsEs -- Cook Cook 500 500 g. 11 lb.) lemon peel lb.) stoned stoned cherries in water, water, cinnamon, peel and cherries in cinnamon,lemon 25 and 25 g. (1 (l oz., g. 2 tablespoons) o2.,2 tablespoons) sugar. sugar. Boil Boil for for 44 minutes. minutes. Thicken Thicken with aa teaspoon potato flour flour blended with with cold cold water. water. (+ pint, Dilute with pint, scant Dilute dl. (t with 22 dl. scant cup) Bordeaux wine, cup) Bordeaux wine, previously boiled previously with the boiled with crushed cherry the crushed cherry stones stones and and strained. Pour Pour boiling hot hot into the pieces of the tureen, tureen, and and serve serve with with pieces of rusk or slices of brioche lightly toasted. briochelightly Cherry soup (2 oz., soup ill. III. SOUPE soupE AUX AUx CERISES g. (2 cERrsEs -- Melt Melt 50 50 g. oz.,lt

Whiting soup (C/arre) soup àri la la bretonne bretonne (Claire) Whiting

Add aa small small duck duck browned in g. (generous (generous 1I in the the oyen, oven, 500 500 g. Add lb.) blanched blanched brisket brisket of of beef piece of beef and and aa sm small of blanched blanched lb.) ail piece lean bacon. bacon. Garnish Garnish with with aa bouquet garni containing, bouquet garni containing, in in lean addition to the usual usual herbs, sorne some fennel fennel and and marjoram. marjoram. Bring Bring addition to the boil, gently until boil, skim, and and simmer simmer gently until ail all the the meats meats are are to completely cooked, removing the duck duck and and the bacon as as soon soon completely as they are done. as Fifteen minutes minutes before before serving, serving, add add 88 small small chipolata chipolata Fifteen soup. Remove ail garnish. all the meat garnish. sausages to poach in the soup. Cut the the breast duck, beef and of duck, and bacon bacon into into dice dice and and the the Cut breast of sausages into into slices. Add aa tablespoon Mushroom (see Mushroom essence essence (see sausages (6 tablespoons, ESSENCE) to to'l1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1j cup) ofthejuice of the juice of of rawo grated beetroot, and and aa tablespoon chopped chopped and and blanraw, parsley to the soup. ched fennel and parsley garnish and the meat garnish and aa sauce sauceboat of soured Serve with with the boat of cream. cream. The sausages can be grilled instead of being poached in the the soup. The soured cream is is often put in the soup, soup, instead instead of of soup. being separately. being served separately. porAcE BORTSCH Russian (4t BoRrscH À A LA le RUSSE nussn -- 21 Ztlitres litres (4~ Russian borsch. POTAGE pints, 5j pints) (U.S.A. beets), 250 250 g. (9 pints, 51 pints) stock, 3 to 4 beetroots beetroots (U.S.A. oz.) fresh cabbage, 22 carrots, 1I parsnip, 2 stalks celer celery, 100 g. y, 100 (4 Frankfurther sausages (4 oz.) oz.) boiled boiled ham ham (optional), (optional), 66 Frankfurther (optional), (4 tablespoons) tablespoons) (optional), 11 large large onion, onion, 33 tablespoons tablespoons' (4 tomato tomato pur6e purée (or'100 (or 100 9.,4 g" 4 oz. fresh tomatoes), 2 tablespoons (3 sugar, 1I to 2 bayleaves, (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) vinegar, 1I tablespoon sugar, bay leaves, sprig of dill, sprig of parsley, 11 lf teaspoons teaspoon teaspoons salt, 1I teaspoon pepper, lj sour cream. 11 dl. $ (t pint, i3 cup) sour Clean and shred beetroot, beetroot, carrots, parsnip, parsmp, celery and the onion. onion. Cut the the root vegetables vegetables first into slices slices then into little 'matchsticks'. 'matchsticks'. The The decorative appearance appearance of of the vegetables in borsch borsch is very very important. Put into a saucepan, add tomatoes or (if or tomato pur6e, purée, sugar, sugar, and and enough enough stock, with a little little fat (if the the stock stock has has no fat, add I1 or 2 tablespoons tablespoons butter), butter), to coyer cover the the vegetables. vegetables. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring from time time to to time time and adding adding stock or water water to prevent sticking. sticking. Add Add shredded shredded cabbage, cabbage, mix mix well weil and simmer simmer another'15 another 15 to 20 minutes. Pour in all ail the stock, add salt and pepper pepper to taste, minutes. Pour bay tablespoon vinegar, and simmer until the vegetvegetbay leaf, leaf,"1I tablespoon ables ables are are done. done. Potatoes Potatoes may may be be put put in the borsch borsch -- whole if they into chips if if large. large. When When the borsch is they are are small, cut into ready ready andjust and just before before serving, serving, a few slices ofboiled of boiled ham or sausages sausages ofthe of the Frankfurther Frankfurther type type can be be added added to to it. To To give give the the characteristic characteristic attractive attractive colour, colour, keep.l keep 1 beetroot beetroot for for last last minute minute use. use. Rub Rub itit through through a fine fine grater, grater, cover co ver with a cupful of stock, stock, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, simmer simmer for for 2 to 3 minutes minutes cupful of with with aa teaspoon teaspoon of vinegar, vinegar, and and strain the liquid into the borsch. borsch. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with finely finely chopped chopped parsley parsley and and dill. dill. Add Add the the

Beer soup soup (Scarzarr) (Scarna/l) Boer

884

BROTHS AND BROTHS SOUPS AND SOUPS cup) cup) butter butter in in aa saucepan. saucepan. Add Add 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) lb.) stoned stoned cherries, 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., OZ., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar, sugar, a little little cinnamon cinnamon cherries, 25 and and some sorne lemon lemon peel. peel. Moisten Moisten with with 22 dl. (+ (4- pint, scant scant cup) water. pour onto onto slices slices of of toast. water. Boil Boil for for 88 minutes minutes and and pour English chicken chicken soup soup or or chicken chicken broth broth I. 1. souPE SOUPE AU AU PoULET POULET A À English L'ANGLAISE -- Put Put into into aa deep deep stewpan stewpan or or marmite marmite a mediumL'ANGLAIsE Pour in.lf in I! litres litres (3 pints, pints, 4 pints) pints) plain stock' stock. sized chicken. chicken. Pour sized Bring to to the the boil, boil, skim, skim, add add salt. salt. Bring Put in in for flavouring ftavouring an onion onion stuck with a clove, a bunch Put cup) rice. 00 g: ofherbs and aa stick stick ofcelery, of celery, and and add I100 g. (4 oz., OZ., Itcup) of herbs and Simmer very very slo.wly slowly till cooked. Simmer it Put it the chicken chicken and cut it into small pieces. Put Take out the back in in the the stewpan, having removed the onion and herbs. back cooked in 11 dl. dl. $ Ct pint, 3~ cup) chopped vegetables cooked Add 1+ Add butter, and and bring bring to the ",,p) boil. butter, A L'ANGLAISE L'.tncL.e.$n -SOUPE AU AU PouLEr POULET À English chicken chic ken soup II. souPE English in Cook 2 dl. di. (} (4- pint, scant cup) chopped mixed vegetables in (3 pints, 4 pints) in lfr I! litres (3 butter until they are soft. Pour in medium-sized chicken cut up while raw ?Iain stock. Put in a medium-sized plain g: (4 OZ., oz., tI Add'l100 00 g. Bring to the boil, skim. Add into small pieces. Bring cup) rice ri ce and simmer slowly. Cut Chotodriec soup soup (Polish (Polish cookery). cnoronnrrc -- Cut souPE CHOTODRIEC cookery). SOUPE Chotodriec Add 2 a cooked beet in thin th in rounds and put them in a tureen. tureen. Add a peeled (3 tablespoons) diced egg egg yolks, yolks, 22 tablespoons tablespoons) peeled tablespoons (3 diced shrimps, and thin slices of cucumber. Sprinkle with chopped chopped mixed fennel and chives. Bring cucumbers mixed Bring to the boil pickled cucumbers fennel quart) sour (lt pints, generous quart) sour and 1I litre (I! with aa little yeast and quart) ofthejuice (lf pints, generous quart) of thejuice milk. Season, Season, mixl mix I litre (Ii with the soup, and chili chill on ice. Clam chowder clam chowder Manhattan clam or Manhattan vegetables or soup with with vegetables Clam soup (American cookery). SOUPE Cook nux LÉGUMES lfoutr,lEs -- Cook DE CLAMS cLAMs AUX souPE DE gently When dice. When in small small dice. gr (4 oz.) cut in gently in butter 100 oz.) salt pork cut 100 g. almost Cook onion. Cook diced onion. medium-sized diced add aa medium-sized cooked add almost cooked without or and one one or celery and of celery colour. Add 22 sticks sticks of without allowing it to colour. two peeled diced diced green peppers. Sprrnkle (optional). Cook Cook good tablespoon flour (optional). tablespoon ftour with aa good Sprinkle with lightly, (2f; pints, pints) pints, Ji3] pints) in 1l tj litres litres (2i Pour in the time. time. Pour all the lighily, stirring stirring ail light medium-sized Add 22 medium-sized Bring to to the the boil. boil. Add water. Bring light stock stock or or water. tomatoes, (Il OZ., g' (II oz., and 300 300 g. in dice, dice, and and cut cut in seeded, and tomatoes, peeled, seeded, 1ltà- cups) cook and cook Season and dice. Season in slightly slightly bigger bigger dice. cut in cups) potatoes cut briskly. briskly. Open liquor. their liquor. keeping their clams, keeping hard-shelled clams, Open 33 dozen dozen hard-shelled Trim trimmings the trimmings Chop the stomachs. Chop putting aside aside the the stomachs. Trim them, them, putting and dl. (t and 22 dl. liquor and the clam clam liquor put them with the saucepan with them in in aa saucepan and put $ pint, through aa Strain through for 15 l5 minutes. minutes. Strain Cook fof pint, scant water. Cook scant cup) cup) water. fine latter into the the latter Put into the soup. soup. Put liquid to to the this liquid add this strainer and and add fine strainer the the boil, boil, Bring to to the dice. Bring into large large dice. cut into parts of clams cut of the the clams the soft soft parts coyer, possible heat. heat. poach on lowest possible on the the lowest to poach them to and leave leave them cover, and Finish chopped pinch of thyme, aaspoonful spoonful chopped with aa pinchofthyme, soup with Finish the the soup parsleyand with serve with (4 OZ., Heat and and serve g. (4 cup) butter. butter. Heat oz., 1* cup) parsley and 125 125 g. water (soda crackers) whole or or broken. broken. crackers) whole water biscuits biscuits (soda New New of New that of from that differs from chowder differs New York York clam clam chowder England, pork, onion, onion, with diced diced salt salt pork, soup made made with which isis aa soup England, which potatoes, milk. potatoes, clams rich milk. and rich clams and Cock-a-Ieekie Er coQ ET AU COQ (Scottish cookery). souPE AU cookery). SOUPE Cock-a-leekie (Scottish POIREAUX (made poIREAUx OU chicken broth broth (made Add to to chicken ou COCKY-LEEKY cocKY-LEErv -- Add 2 with itsfat, fat,2 ofits skimmedof and skimmed fowl), strained strainedand with aa medium-sized medium-sized fowl), dl. thin part of cut into into thin leekscut white part of leeks pint, scant the white of the cup) of dl. (4-($ pint, scant cup) strips ken cut cut thechic chicken fleshof ofthe and the theftesh in butter, butter, and and simmered simmered in strips and in pieces. in thin thin pieces. Although thesoup soup cockerel, the todemand demand aacockerel, seemsto recipe seems Although this this recipe isis most plump, tender hen' tenderhen. prepared with with aaplump, most often often prepared Gulyas This cuLYAs - - This ror.lceGULYAS (Hungarian cookery). cookery). POTAGE soup (Hungarian Gulyas soup soup pieces,onion, stock andstock onion,and smallpieces, cut into into small made of of beef beef cut soup isis made seasoned potatoes,cooked the cookedininthe haseither paprika.ItIt has either potatoes, with paprika. seasonedwith stock, toit.it. added to noodles added stock, or or noodles Gombo ,lux (American cookery). soueuAUX cookery). SOUPE soup(American okra soup Gumbo or or okra GOMBOS, SOUPE OKRA - Cook tablespoons) tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) coMBos, soupE oKRA - Cook22tablespoons

(C/ar?e) Gulyas soup soup (Claire) Gulyas

(3 tablespoons) tablespoons) in 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 very Iightly lightly in chopped onions onions very chopped (or raw and in dice (3 oz.) ham) cut cut in dice and g. (3 raw ham) bacon (or 75 g. oz.) bacon butter. Add Add 75 butter. (9 oz.) g. (9 raw chicken diced, raw chicken in 250 250 g. oz.) diced, Put in for 33 minutes. minutes. Put cook for cook pieces of pan, until of until the the pieces the pan, shaking the flesh. Cook Cook lightly, lightly, shaking ftesh. pints) (2f; pints, pints, 3i3f pints) quite fion. in l-t l| litres litres (2! Pour in firm. Pour chicken are are quite chicken gently for for 25 25 and cook cook gently to the the boil boil and chicken stock, stock, bring bring to chicken peeled, gumbos and (5 oz.) and 22 peeled, g. (5 oz.) of of chopped chopped gumbos 150 g. minutes. Add Add 150 minutes. for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Cook for tomatoes. Cook crushed tomatoes. seeded, drained drained and and crushed seeded, add 33 servingadd and before before serving the soup, soup, and fat from from the Skim ail all fat Skim water for for 15l5 (4 tablespoons) in salted salted water boiled in rice, boiled tablespoons (4 tablespoons) rice, tablespoons water. in cold cold water. rinsed in minutes and and rinsed minutes sometimes seasoned.ItIt isis sometimes highly seasoned. be highly This soup soup should should be This Worcestershiresauce. sauce. drops of of Worcestershire few drops finished off offwith finished with aa few the lu LIÈVRE r$vnn - - Cut Cutthe PoTAGE AU cookery). POTAGE Hare soup soup (EngUsh Hare @nglish cookery). pieces and with in pieces andcook cookininbutter butter with hare in legs of of hare forequarters and and legs forequarters of (6 tablespoons) consisting of of aa mirepoix mirepoix consisting tablespoons) of tablespoons (6 55 tablespoons of part of sprig of ham, aa sprig leeks, lean lean ham, of leeks, white part carrots, ion, white carrots, on onion, leaf. parsley, thyme and aa bay bay leaf. parsley, thyme and them well browned, sprinklethem areweil browned,sprinkle ingredients are When When ail all these these ingredients Brown the the cornstarch. Brown arrowroot or orcornstarch. cup) arrowroot with with 30 30 g.g. (1(l OZ., oz., i-* cup) (3j pints, pints,4t pints)ordinary 4| pints) ordinary add22litres arrowroot litres (31 arrowroot lightly, lightly, add gentlyfor 2lhours. hours. for2t simmer gently stock, stock, season, season,and and simmer cutinin perforatedspoon, them,cut spoon, bone bonethem, with aaperforated Remove Remove the legswith the legs few Moistenwith withaafew hot.Moisten salpiconhot. small this salpicon keepthis small dice diceand and keep cutinin thehare's hare's liver, liver, cut Add the tablespoons stock. Add strained stock. tablespoons of ofstrained poach lightly. small lightly. and poach smallslices, slices,and perforated spoon spoonand and withaaperforated Take harewith ofthe thehare Take out therest rest of out the poundtogether meat,pound together bone boned hare haremeat, tothe theboned it.Add theIiver liver t6 bone it. Add the ininaamortar sieve. rub through through aasieve. mortarand and rub with Flavour ititwith Strain for25 25minutes. minutes.Flavour skimititfor stockand andskim Strain tbe thestock and marjoram,basil basiland 33tablespoons ofsweet sweetmarjoram, tablespoons)of tablespoons(4(4tablespoons) spice rosemary butter,and andspice oz.,i-i cup) butter, add60 60g.g.(2(2OZ., rosemary infusion, infusion,add "rrp) with pepper. pinchof withaapinch ofcayenne cayennepepper. pourthe stock Put andpour thestock pur6e into souptureen tureenand intoaasoup harepurée Put the thehare over the Addthe thehare haresalpicon salpicontotothe whisk. Add withaawhisk. Mixweil wellwith over it.it.Mix port. soup cup)of ofport. soupwith with44tablespoons tablespoons (4-$cup) ItIt isisusual redcurrant addaatablespoon tablespoonofofredcurrant England totoadd usualininEngland justbefore jelly jellytotohare serving. beforeserving. haresoup soupjust Potage oz.) Put600 lb.66oz.) flamande - - Put 600g.g.(I(llb. PotageHochepot Hochepotài lalaflamande (l I brisket (l Ioz.) ofmutton, mutton,300 300g.g.(II oz.)shoulder shoulderof 300g.g.(Il ofbeef, brisket of beef,300 oz.) tails, 600 g.g.(l(llb.lb.6 6 pigs'tails,600 oz.)pigs' 150g.g.(5(5oz.) mutton,150 ofmutton, oz.) breast breast of oz.) salted ( I Ioz.) pigs'ears 250g.g.(9(9oz.) oz.)salted pigs'feet, earsand and250 oz.)pigs' feet,300 oz.)pigs' 300g.g.(Il bacon intoaabig stockpot. bigstockpot. bacon into Coyer (5fpints, pints,616|pints) pints)water, water, with33litres litres(5imeatswith thesemeats Coverthese season (lj teaspoons) Bringtotothe skim, salt.Bring theboil, boil,skim, teaspoons)salt. season with12 with 12g.g.(lt and gently. andsimmer simmergently. After leeks carrots,1 Ionion, onion,4 4leeks add22carrots, ofcooking cookingadd After22hours hoursof

885 885

BROTHS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS SOUPS (white part part only), head of only), aa head of cabbage cabbage and potatoes -and 33 big (white big potatoes slicing ail all these vegetables. Contin these vegetables. Continue ue to slicing to cook, cook, simmering simmering gently for for about about 22 hours. hours. gently Serve the bouillon garnishing itit with of this soup soup in in aa tureen, tureen, garnishing bouillon ofthis Serve with few vegetables. Serve the meats meats and and rest Serve the the vegetables aa few rest of ofthe vegetables poached in separately. Addl2 Add l2 chipolata chipolata sausages sausages poached separately. in the the soup. soup. Leberkniideln or or Hungarian Hungarian soup soup witb with liver liver dumplings. Leberknôdeln dumplings. porAGE HONGROIS g. (generous (generous 1I lb.) HoNcRors -- Cut Cut 500 500 g. POTAGE lb.) lean lean beef beef (taken from from the the top of of contre-filet) contre-filet) into into large (taken large dice dice and and brown brown in butter with g: (4 (4 oz., 100 g. with 100 oz.,l1 cup) cup) chopped chopped onion. as on itit in onion. Se Season good pinch pinch of with salt, salt, aa good paprika, 33 g. (scant teaspoon) g. (scant of paprika, with teaspoon) garlic. Sprinkle cumin and and aa pinch of (l oz., of garlic. Sprinkle with g. (1 cumin with 20 20 g. oz., ±* cup) cup) flour. Cook Cook for for aa few few moments, (3f pints, moments, dilute dilute with pints, litres (31 fiour. with 22litres 4| pints) ordinary ordinary stock, stock, bring to to the the boil, and 41 and simmer simmer fof for 1I (5 oz., g. (5 potatoes: oz., 1I cup) cup) diced hour. Add 150 g. diced potatoes: put 33 tablespoons When serving, (4 tablespoons) serving, put tablespoons (4 When tablespoons) diced diced crottons fried fried in butter into into the soup. croûtons soup. Hungarian soup with liver liver dumplings. dumplings. SOUPE Hungarian soupE AUX AUx BOULETTES BouLETTEs (2f pints, DE FOIE ForE -- Add Add to l| litres pints, 3± to 11 litres (2i pints) boiling DE 3| pints) consomm6,liver prepared in this way: consommé, liver ddumplings umplings prepared g. (5 (5 oz.) Cook'150 oz.) diced calf's calf 's or Cook 150 g. or ox liver in lard or or butter moments. Season, Season, and and sauté for a few moments. saut6 over aa moderately high heat. Pound the liver in a mortar and and rub it through through a sieve sieve into aa (2 oz., ± basin. Stir until smooth and g. (2 and add 50 g. basin. cup) softened I cup) (2 oz., ~jcup) g, (2 butter, 50 50 g. cup) chopped ions cooked butter, chopped on for aa few onions few cooked for g. (I~ (l! oz., if; cup) fresh breadcrumbs, 1I a0 g. moments in butter, 40 parsley, and 2 beaten eggs. teaspoon chopped chopped parsley, teaspoon paprika and grated nutmeg. Mix weil. Season with salt, paprika Season well. Make ddumplings umplings or long quenelles and 11 and poach them in in'lj (2f pints, 3± 3f pints) boiling litres (2:i boiling consommé consommE fof for 15 l5 minutes. Lithuanian soup. Lithuanian soup. SOUPE soupE LITUANIENNE LTTUANTENNE -- Add Add half aa celery heart, sliced sliced into into strips gently in I~ heart, strips and and cooked gently in butter, butter, to to-lf (2f pints, pints, 3± pints) very litres (2i potato soup litres 3f pints) very light light potato soup (without (3 tablefor 30 butter). Cook for 30 minutes. Add Add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 spoons) spoons) sorre] sorrel leaves leaves cooked cooked tiU till soft soft in in butter, butter, "1I dl. dl. (6 g. (2 oz., tablespoons, scant ~* cup) sour cream and and 50 g. cnp) oz.,** cup) fresh butter. Garnish with little little squares of streaky bacon, poached and Garnish and skinned chipolata skinned chipolata sausages, sausages, and fried egg yolks. puree of liver soup. (Hungarian (Hungarian cookery). Leber-suppe Leber-suppe or purée g, (2 oz., * cup) onion, 50 soupE A rn pun6p SOUPE À LA PURÉE DE ForE FOIE -- Cook 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.) g. (2 pork and g. (2 oz., oz., ~i cup) carrot, 50 c.rp) carrot, 50 g. lean salt oz.) lean salt pork and aa shallot, ail shallot, all finely chopped, in melted butter with with aa sprig of bay leaf. ' thyme and half half a bay When the vegetables are cooked, add 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) diced 's or grated nutmeg calf's or ox liver. Iiver. Season pepper and grated calf Season with salt, pepper (2 tableand brown quickly. Sprinkle with with 11 lj tablespoons (2 spoons) flour. fiour. Stir Stir in I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant ~f cup) white spoons) wine and lj I~ litres (2f; (2i pints, 3* consommé. Cook 3f pints) consomm6. Cook for 25 minutes. Drain the liver and and vegetables and and pound together in a mortar. Rub through a fine sieve. sieve. Add the cooking liquor, consommé. diluting it, ifif necessary, with a few tablespoons consomm6. diluting Bring the boil and serve serve with small small cro0tons croûtons of of bread bread fried Bring to the in butter. butter. with klyotski klyotski (Russian (Russian cookery). cookery). porAGE POTAGE soup with Livonian soup LIVONIEN AUx AUX KLoSKI KLOSKI -- Chop Chop an an onion on ion and 50 50 g: g; (2 oz.) sorrel LIVoNIEN cook them in 33 tablespoons tablespoons (4 tablespoons) leaves finely finely and cook leaves pan. Add 500 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) blanched, well weil butter in a covered pan. spinach. Cook Cook together together for aa few few moments, then add drained spinach. (i pint, scant 2 cups) Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Mix 44 dl. (f,pint, cups) Btchamel fof l5 15 minutes. minutes. weil and simmer simmer gently for well Rub through through a sieve. sieve. Dilute Dil ute with I1 litre litre (lf (1 i pints, pints, generous generous Rub quart) ordinary stock. Put back back into the the saucepan saucepan for fifteen 'l dl. withl dl. (6 minutes, skimming frequently. frequently. Finish Finish off with minutes, cup) cream cream and 60 60 g. (2 (2 oz.,f,cup) oz., * cup) butter, butter, tablespoons, scant scant ]1- cup) tablespoons, and serve serve wfih with klyotski klyotski (quenelles) (quenelles) prepared as as follows: and

(7 oz.) Make Make 200 (see 200 g.g. (7 pastry (see oz.) of of unsweetened unsweetened Chou Chou pastry CHOU). CHOU). Add Add to to itit aa tablespoon tablespoon chopped, chopped, blanched and blanched and pressed out 25 g. (1 oz., blespoons) chopped, pressed g.(l shallots,25 out shallots, oz., 11 lj tatablespoons) chopped, (l oz.) lean g. (1 lean cooked cooked harn ham and and 25 25 g. oz.) very very small cro0tons fried fried in in small croûtons butter. butter. Take Take up up aa little little of mixture with of the the mixture with aa teaspoon teaspoon and drop and drop into into boiling water or or stock. stock. The The klyotski boiling water ready when klyotski are are ready when they they fioat float up up to to the the surface. surface. (Itdian cookery). Mille-fanti Mille-fanti soup soup (Italian cookery). SOUPE soupE MILLE-FANTI MrLLE-FANII -- Put Put (3 oz., into 11 cups) into aa basin g. (3 (2 basin 80 80 g. oz.,'lj cups) fresh g. (2 fresh breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, 50 50 g. oz., grated Parmesan oz., 1{ cup) Parmesan cheese cup) grated cheese and and 22 beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Season Season with pepper and with salt, salt, pepper nutmeg and and nutmeg and mix mix weil. well. Add, Add, little little by by (2f pints, pints, 3± pints) boiling little, to 1lj~ litres litres (2:i 3f pints) consomm6. boiling consommé. Coyer pan and Cover the the pan cook very slowly slowly for and cook for 88 minutes. minutes. Stir with Stir with aa whisk whisk before serving. serving. panada of This This soup, soup, which which isis aa kind kind of ofpanada of cheese cheese and and egg, egg, can can be made with place of with water water in in place of consommé. consomm6.

Minestrone (Clarre) Minestrone (Claire)

Minestrone (Italim cookery) -- Melt in aa sucepan 40 (l* g. 01Mnestrone (!tallan a0 g. oz., 3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped salt pork fat and add 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz, 3 slices) streaky bacon cut in pieces, 22 tablespoons in small pieces, tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped chopped onion and the chopped chopped white of aa leek. Cook li litres (3 (3 pints, 4 pints) Cook gently for 55 minutes. Pour in in.lf water, season, bring to the boil. Add aa carrot, aa turnip, aa season, and bring potato and stick of celery celery cut in pieces, the and aa tender stick in small pieces, heart of of a smaU small cabbage sirnilarly similarly cut and 22 tomatoes tomatoes peeled, ± seeded and chopped. Boil for 25 minutes. Add 50 g. (2 oz., 50 g. o2.,f, cup) beans, 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant ~I cup) cup) diced French beans, dl. (6 fresh peas and 80 g. (3 oz., gently for 45 oz.,*1 cup) cup) rice. Cook Cook very gently 45 minutes. pork fat Add aa tablespoon chopped salt pork fat crushed crushed with 22 garlic, aa tablespoon chopped basil and aa tablespoon cloyes of cloves ofgarlic, chopped basil chopped parsley. Any vegetables in may be be put put in in season may minestrone. Mock-turtle soup soup (English (English cookery) Mock-turfle cookery) -- Soak aa calf's calf 's head in water, bone it and cook in white stock with carrots, onion, onion, garni, cloves, cloyes, salt celery, a a bouquet garni, pepper. Drain salt and and pepper. Drain the off the ears (which are are not used used for this soup), trim head, cut offthe under aa press between between two the rest of the meat and put it under plates. When When it is is quite quite cold, cut cut it into pieces. pieces. Keep Keep these these hot plates. in a little little of of the stock, to be be added to the soup later. leg of Prepare a clear brown gravy, made of slices of salt leg of pork, veal knuckle and a half-roasted chicken. Dilute with meats are nearly done and gravy is boiled stock. When the meats stock pot vegetables. vegetables. Simmer Simmer gently down, add the the stock and stockpot down, about 22 hours. for about Strain. Thicken with a little arrowroot diluted with cold

t

886

SOUPS AND BROTHS

SOUPS AND BROTHS

stock. stock.Add Addtotoititananinfusion infusionofofbasil, basil,spring springonion, onion,madoram, marjoram, in Madeira thyme thymeand andbay bayleaf leafin Madeiraororport. pour it into a and Strain Strainthe thesoup soupthrough throughaamuslin cloth souptureen. tureen.Gainish Garnishwith withthe thepieces of calf 's head kept for soup thispurpose, and and small smallquenelles qU(~nellesmade of forcemeat mixed this with pounded, hard-boiled egg yolks. Mulligatawny soup I - tigriaients. 2 litres (3* pintsl 4* pints) liater, i tg. (Z+ lb.) mutton, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 apptes, I small turnip, a bouquet garni, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour, I tablespooncurry powder, thejuice of a! lemon,salt. salt. lemon. Method. Remove Removethe thefat fatfrom from the themutton muttonand andmelt meltititininthe the Method. saucepan. Slice Slice the the apples apples and and vegetables vegetables and and when when there there isis saucepan. sufficientliquid Iiquid fat fat to to fry fry them, them, take take out out the thepieces pieces of offat,-put fat, put sufficiint in the the vegetibles vegetables and and cook cook for for about about15 15 minutes. minutes. Sprinklein Sprinkle in in add curry powder, powder, fry fry for for aa few few minutes, minutes, add the the the flouiand fiour and curry the meat cut cut in in small small pieces, pieces, aa teaspoon teaspoon salt, salt, the the herbs herbs and and water' water. meat and cook cook gently gently for for Boil, remove remove the the icum scum as as itit rises, rises, cover, coyer, and Boil, about 33 hours. hours. Strain, Strain, rub rub the the meat meat through through aa sieve, sieve, and and about return to to the the saucepan. saucepan. When When boiling, boiling, add add the the lemon lem on juice, juice, return and serve serve with with well-cooked well-cooked rice. rice. season, and season, meat or any kind The bones bones and and remains remains of ofany kind of ofmeat or poultry poultry may may The mutton. be used used instead instead of ofmutton. be Il (English (Englisb cookery) - Cut a mediumffinlligatawny soup II sized chfike n ai as forftit"ot"i, ittd cook it in 2 litres (3] pints, 4] sized "ook pints) white white stock with sliced carrot and an an onion, onion, aa bouquet pints) tablespoons 3 parsley and gorni, garni, a sprig of tablespoonS' (4 (4 tablespoons) tablespoons) mushroom parings. mushroom g. (2 oz.,* cup) butter' Brown ua ittopp"O onion onion lightly in 50 50 g. butter. Brown small (l OZ., cup) cornflour and aa small g. (1 o2.,1 Sprinkle with )b g. ± cup) and stock and chicken stock the chicken with the spoonful powder. Moisten with cu.ty po*der. sioonful curry cook gently for for 10 minutes. dl' add 22 dl. and add 15 minutes, minutes, and for 15 simmer for sieve, simmer Striin through a sieve, scant cup) cream. pint, $," ^Put and tureen and soup tureen into aa soup chicken into pieces of of chicken the the trimmed pieces (see l'indienne (see Rice àd l'indienne with Rice Serve with them' Serve strain soup over ouei them. the soup strain the RICE). RrcE). brunoise coarse brunoise Cook aa coarse (English cookery) cookery) -- Cook Mutton broth (English Mutton broth part only), only), aa (white part leeks (white turnip, 22 leeks composed carrot, aa turnip, of aa carrOI, composed of with 22 cover with in butter. butter. Coyer onion in white onion and aa white good celery and of celery stalk of eood stalk (Il oz.) oz') 300 g.g' (11 Add 300 stock. Add pints) white white stock. pints, 4l 4f pints) litres iitres (31 pints, blanched (4 oz., c"p) blanched oz',i cup) 100 g!gt (4 and 100 and neck breast mutton and of mutton neck of breast'aid hours. for l| hours. gently for barley. mer gently Simmer barley. Sim put itit and put dice and into large large dice cut into Drain bonelt, cut mutton, bone the mutton, Drain the blanched and blanched chopped and tablespoon chopped back Add aatablespoon the broth. broth. Add into the back into parsley. parsley. MouroN DEMOUTON PoTAGE DE qtVle). POTAGE Mlitton la grecque (Greek style). soup ili la Mutton soup light oflight pints)of (2| pints, pints, 3± 3| pints) A r.r. cnsceuB - tvtit" t| titres (2i Purte of split pea souP. cutinin mutton,cut ofmutton, breast of bonedbreast fry 5OO g. (genetous I lb.)boned of brunoiseof cups)brunoise scant22cups) large dice, in Ui,tter with 4 dl. (* pilt,scant stock pints) Iight lightstock 6fpints) litres (5| pints,&! vegetables. with33litres Moistenwith veg-etables. Moisten skim' boil,skim, theboil, Bringtotothe pepper-Bring andpepper. or water. Season saltand withsalt Seasonwith or"water. for'lj hours. and simmer gentlYfor andsimmer stock' muttonstock, themutton andthe Mix the Purteofof tpllt p"o soupand Mixthe fora a Boilfor brunoise.Boil thebrunoise. leaving pieies bf mutton andthe thepieces leavingininititthe few moments. fewmoments. cLAIR oxrArlCLAIRPoTAGEOXTAlL Clear oxtail soup (English cookery).POTAGE Clearoxtail stewpan' intoa astewpan, chunks,into Put cutinin smallchunks, (311b.) oxtail,cut kg.(3-} Putliljkg. Sweatinin onions.Sweat andonions. leeksand on carrots,teeks slicedcarrots, fluidat-ionofofsliced ona afoundation the minutes. for2525minutes. theoyen ovenfor madebyby pints)stock stockmade pints,5t5jpints) (4jpints, Coyer litres(4t with2t2!litres Coverwith hoursinin3*3f, for7 7oror8 8hours geiaiinousbones boneifor (:ilb.) 1 rtkg. lb.)gelatinous kg.(3i "oon"i litres Season. water.Season. pints)water. pints,7 7pints) litres (5f;pints, from313f imperceptible,from boilingisisimperceptible, Simmer theboiling thatthe gently,sosothat Simtrieigently, toto4 4hours. hours. boiling fat.C1arify Clarifybybyboiling Strain surplus fat. offsurplus skimoff andskim thesoup soupand Strainthe beef leanbeef (generous1 lb.) choppedlean I lb.)chopped it itfor 500g. g'(generous with500 hourwith forananhour

±

t

part of two leeks, finely sliced, both these and and the the white white part of two leeks, finely sliced, both these whisked with a raw white of egg. ingredients ingredients whisked with a rawcloth' whiteGarnish of egg. with pieces of -Strain stock through a Strain the the stock through a clotho Garnish with and 3 dl. Gpint, lfcups) ofcoarse brunoise ofcarrots, oxtail oxtail and 3 dl. (t pint, 1* of coarse brunoise sweated in butter and dropped into the turnips and and celeiy celery sweated and dropped into the of sherrY. stock. Add aatablesPoon tablespoon of sherry. cookery). PoTAGE oxren I.16 Thick Tbick oxtail oxtail souf lnogiS, (English When the POTAGE OXTAIL LIÉ broth has been oxtail. Clear for Proceed as Proceed as for oxtail.(2 broth hasbrown been tablespoons) o2,4 the 50 g. with it thicken strained, strained, thicken it with 50 (2 oz., good 4 tablespoons) brown (4 tablespoons 3 (quart), and litre roux roux to to each each litre and 3 good tablespoons (4 purbe. Garnish with mixed vegetables tomato tablespoons) tablespoons) tomato purée. with mixed vegetables in butter, as for clear oxtail soup' Flavour cut cutup up and and cooked cooked in butter, as for clear oxtail soup. Flavour sherry. with with sherry. See OLLAsoup. PoTAGE oLLA-PoDRIol Olla-podrirla OUa-podrida SOlip. POTAGE OLLA-PODRIDA -- See OLLAPODRIDA. PODRIDA.

100 g; (4 with okra (American cookery) -- Put Oyster Oyster soup SOlip witb okra (American 9o9!ery) Put 100 g. (4 pork fat into a thick-bottomed saucepan, chopped i cup) oz., oz., 1 cup) chopped pork fat into a thick-bottomed saucepan, anO wtren ttre fii melts add I 00 g. (4 oz., I cup) chopped onion and when the fat melts add 100 g. (4 oz., 1 cup)Add chopped onion 3 tomatoes gently without letting it colour' and and cook cook itit gently without letting it colIour. Add 3 tomatoes pepper green quarters, l0 okras, small peeled peeled and and cut cut in in q uarters, 10 ok ras, generous 1 small green quart)pepper white litre (scant quart, hnely finely chopped, chopped, anill and 1 litre (scant quart, generous quart) white powder may (a curry little pepper and salt stock. stock. Season Season with with salt and pepper (a little curryput powder de' in'24may for 15 minutes, then Cook if liked). added, be be added, if liked). Cook for 15 minutes, thcn put in· 24 detheir liquor, and poach them for a few with oysters bearded bearded oysters with their Iiquor, and poach them for a few the soup with a little arrowroot' moments. moments. Thicken Thicken the with a little arrowroot. Cook, in Plsrou AU souPE cookery). I Otalian Pistou soup 1 (ltalian SOUPE AU PISTOU - Cook, in water' 250 g' (9 oz',1 clp) 3| pints) boiling water,250 lf litres (2f pinti, 3* (9 oz., 1and cup)2 pieces, 3 potatoes cut in small diced French beansf beans, cut in pieces, and 2 seeded, and crushed' Season' peeled tomatoes, peeIed tomatoes, and crushed. Season. are almost cooked add 100 g' (4 oz') vegetables are the vegetables When the When almost cooked add 100 g. (4 oz.) very slowly. cooking very Finish cooking spaghetti. Spd1ucIJolrl, whichcovers coversaawide wide area, usuallyextends area,usually extendsfrom from 15 April toto1515 July. July. TheEuropean European strawberry strawberry cornes comes from The from the the Haubois Hauboisstrawstrawitsflesh berry: its flesh isisfinn firmand andfragrant. fragrant. AA closely related berry: related species speciesisis the Alpine Alpine strawberry. strawberry. The perpetual strawberry isisaavariety The perpetual the variety of this. ofthis. Large strawberries strawberries came came from from the Large the United United States States and and (Fragaria virginiana), Canada (Fragaria virginiana'), and (Fragaria Canada and from fromChile Chtle (Fragaria chiloensis). They They were were imported imported into chiloensis). intoFrance France by naval officer byaanaval officer named Fréziers, Fr6ziers, and and are are still named still cultivated cultivated today the region today inin the regionof of

STR.AII\ING BAG. BAG. CHAUSSE cHAUssE -- Funnel Funnel in in felt felt or used to orcloth cloth used to STRAINING particularly syrups. liquids, particularly clarify liquids, syrups. c1arify plrr,r"oN - Straw STRAW-CASE. PAlLLON wrapping in in which which boules bottles STRAW-CASE. - Straw wrapping are transported. This This straw, straw, after after treatment treatment in in boiling boiling water, water, is also used for for'dressing' the bottles. bottles. 'dressing' the

STRAWS. ALLUMETTEs -- Strips of puffpastry of puff cooked in in the the STRA WS. ALLUMETTES pastry cooked with different garnishes. (See also oven, with different garnishes. also ALLUMETTES.) ALLUMETTES.) oven, Anchovy straws. straws. ALLUMETTES ALLTJMETTES AUX puff AUx ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Coat Coat the the puff pastry with Fish (see FORCEMEATS) Fisft forcemeal FORCEMEATS) blended blended pastry forcemeat (see with Anchovy (see BUTTER, Anchovy butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). with Garnish each each strip strip with with an an anchovy anchovy fillet, fillet, trimmed trimmed and and Garnish desalted. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oven. desalted. Sfraws ài la la chalmmaise. chalonnaise. ALLUMETTES ALLUMETTHT À A LA La CHALONNAISE cH,qloNNArsE -Straws Coat the the puff pastry with with aa Chicken (see Chicken forcemeat (see Coat FORCEMEATS) blended with with cream cream and very finely and with aa very finely chopped mixture mixture of cocks' combs, of cocks' combs, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffies chopped added to to it. it. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oven. added Ctcese straws. sfraws. ALLUMETTES ALLUMETTES AU AU FROMAGE FRoMAcn -- Cheese Cheese straws, straws, Cheese which are are served served as as aa cold cold hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre and and as as an an acc:ornp,anlaccompaniwhich ment to to cheeses, cheeses, are puffpastry are made made of of puff with the the addition of of ment pastry with grated cheese finely grated cheese during during the last last rolling rolling out. out. The The straws straws are are finely placed on then cut, cut, placed on aa baking tray, tray, and and sprinkJed grated sprinkled with with grated then Parmesan. Pannesan. Creyfsh straws. straws. ALLUMETTES ALLUMETTEs AUX AUx CREVETTES cREvETTEs -- Coat Coat the the Crayfish puff pastry pastry with with finely finely minced minced Fish (see Fish forcemeat puff forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) blended with with Crayfish (see Crayfish butter butter (see FORCEMEA TS) blended BUTTER, Compound butters) butters) and and with with aa finely finely chopped chopped BUTTER, mixture crayfish tails added to it. Bake in the oven. of crayfish mixture of

Plougastel.

(also called Pine strawberries strawberries (also mon garden strawbercalled corn common strawberries) originating originating from from Carolina Carolina are are really really hybrids of of that that species.

The beautiful beautiful Madame Madame Tallien Tallien bathed in strawberry bathed in strawberry water water

to keep her her skin skin soft lb.) were (221b.) soft and and velvety. velvety. About About 10 l0 kg. kg. (22 were for each crushed for her baths. each of ofher baths. Fontanelle adored adored strawberries FontaneUe strawberries and and ate ate them them daily daily when when they were were in in season. season. they people are Some people Sorne are allergie allergic to to strawberries. strawberries. Cooking Cooking them them for for few moments moments in in boiling boiling water aa few water can can counteract counteract this. this. Strawberries must Strawberries gathered because must be be eaten eaten freshly freshly gathered because they do not not keep. keep. They They are do are used used to to make make aa soft soft drink drink and and for for the extraction of extraction of spirits. spirits. They They may may also also be pur6ed. be eaten eaten puréed. jam-making. Strawberries are used Strawberries are used for for jam-making. Bavarian cre Sfrawberry Bavarian SO'al'l'beIITV am - See V ARIAN CREAM. creamSee BA BAVARIAN CREAM. Cardinal strawberries. shawberries. FRAlSES FRArsEs CARDINAL cARDTNAL -- Arrange weil well chilled strawberries strawberries in chilled in aa fruit fruit dish. dish. Cover Cover them them with aa puree of sweetened sweetened purée of ripe ripe raspberries. raspberries. SprinkJe Sprinkle with with finely finely chopped chopped almonds. almonds. Strawberries Strawbenies in in cbampagne. champagno. FRArsBs AU cHAMrAGNE Sugared Sugared strawberries strawberries are are arranged in individual dishes or in a fruit dish and sprinkJed sprinkled with with Champagne. Chili Chill thoroughly. thoroughly. SO'lulrberry Shawberry compote J. I. COMPOTE coMporE DE DE FRAISES FRArsEs -- Remove Remove stems stems and and clean the strawberries. strawberries. Add Add severa! several tablespoons tablespoons boiling boiling sugar sugar syrup. syrup. Let I-et the the fruit fruit soak soak in in this this syrup syrup for for sorne some time. time. Serve hot or cold. Strawberry Sfoawberry compote II. COMPOTE corvrpors DE g. DE FRAISES FRArsEs -- Cook Cook 250 250 g. (9 oz., (9 oz., generous cup) sugar and and 1I dl. dl. (f pint, 3 cup) water to the third degree (see SUGAR). Add to this syrup I kg. (2f lb.) large strawberries. Soak, covered, for! for l00 minutes. Strawberry Condé. Cond6. FRAlSES FRArsEs CONDÉ coNof -- SprinkJe Sprinkle the the fruit fruit with with sugar and kirsch. Leave to soak in aa cool place. Arrange in a pyramid pyramid in Arrange in aa border of of rice which has has been been cooked in milk with sugar and and vanilla and and bound with egg egg yolk. yo!k. It is then moulded in aa ring mould, mould, cooked in in aa bainbainmarie, cooled marie, cooled and turned out. Serve with a sweet purée puree of strawberries and raspberries. and raspberries. FRAISES A À r,c, LA cRirrdE CRÈME - Arrange Strawberries and Sfrawberries and cream. cream. FRAISES - Arrange strawberries in aa glass dish or or individual individua! dishes. strawberries dishes. Sprinkle with with sugar and cover with thick thick fresh cream cream or sweetened whipped sugar cream. cream. FRAISES rzARrNE TZARINE - Stand aa dish Strawberries Czarina. FRArsEn dish on on - Stand ice ice. Cover the bottom with a layer of of pineapple ice cream. ice. cream. Arrange large large strawberries, strawberries, soaked soaked in kummel kummel and and sugar sugar and Arrange and chilled, on on the the ice ice cream. cream. chilled, Decorate with with Chantilly cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) piped Decorate through aa forcing forcing bag bag with with aa large large fluted fluted nozzle. nozz!e. Sprinkle with through candied violets. violets. candied Strawberry ice mixture. coMposrrroN COMPOSITION AUx AUX FRArsEs FRAISES pouR POUR Sfrawberry GLACES - Mix t litre pint, 2i cups) cups) strawberry strawberry pur6e purée cLAcEs $ litre (scant pint,2t

pArLLEs - Potato cut Ipncrtl,n/""'" STRAW POTATOES. POTATOES. PAILLES lengthways into STRAW very very thin thin strips, then deep-fried. (See POTATOES.) pdLLE -- Wines made from STRAW vrN DE DE PAlLLE from grapes STRAW WINES. WINES. VIN which are left to dry on straw straw mats for sorne some time time before before being which are pressed. Tbe vin (Ch6teau-Chalon) is of Jura (Château-Chalon) is very pressed. The vin de paille paille of well weil known. known.

STRAWBERRY. STRAWBERRY. nnusn FRAlSE -- Plant of of the rose family common throughout It began to be cultivated in the thirteenth throughout Europe. Europe. It be cultivated thirteenth century. six species of century. Five Five or or six of strawberries were were known. From of varieties have been From these these aa number ofvarieties been cultivated. culLÏvated. Strawberries are classified small groups: sm ail strawclassified into two groups:

t

Wffi^W

ffiffiffi Some varieties of strawberry : a. a. Margucrite; Marguerite; b. b. Reinedes quatre-saison; c. Louis Gauthier; d. Doctor c.e. Saint ",aUH Antoine; n.lHU"";. f. Viscountess H6ricart de Thurv

Morere:

902

STRITZEL STRITZEL ItIt isis essential essential not to allow allow the the lemon peel peel to boil with with the compote compote as the tbe taste will wiIJ be be entirely entirely different. different. Glac6 Glacé sfiawberry strawberry tomatoes tomatoes in caramel. caramel. lxfrnrqcss ALKÉKENGES crlcfBs CARAMEL - Open the fruit and roll in powdered GLACÉES AU cARAMEL gum gum arabic. Dip Dip into sugar sugar syrup syrup cooked cooked to to crack crack degree degree (see (see SUGAR). Take out out with a perforated perforated spoon spoon and place place on a marble or slab slab of ofmarble or on a lightly !ightly greased greased metal sheet. sheet. rExrNcEs Glac6 Glacé strawberry tomatoes tomatoes in fodant fondant icing. icing. lI ALKÉKENGES with Fondant cLAcfiFs FONDANT - Coat with Fondant icing icing (see (see ICING) GLACÉES AU FoNDANT whiten white, pink pink or yellow, yellow, flavoured with kirsch, kirsch, raspberry or pineapple pineapple essence. fruit stalk. Hold Open calyx and turn Open the thecalyx turn back back to form form a stalk. Hold the fruit fondant icing. Drain by the end of of the calyx and dip into hot fondant with icing sugar. Put and place on a tray sprinkled with Put into paper cases. jam. CONFITURE o'^l,lr6,rExcEs coNFITURE D'ALKÉKENGES Strawberry tomato tomato jam. g. (lt ke. (2i Ingredients. Ingredients. 1I kg. Q* lb.) strawberry tomatoes, 750 g. (l pint, pint, 21 2f cups) water. lb., Si 5| cups) loaf loaf sugar, 6 dl. (1 Method. Make Make a syrup of the sugar and water and add the removed. Bring to with their calyxes calyxes removed. strawberry strawberry tomatoes, with Remove scum as it forms. the boil. Remove forms . Boil for about 20 minutes. stove and leave thejam the jam to cool Draw the pan to the side of of the stoveand Draw jam. jars and seallike Fut into jars other jam. seal like any other a little. Put tomato syrup. symp. SIROP srRop D'ALKÉKENGESo'^alKfKENcEs Sfrawberry tomato Strawberry (3| (311b.) tomatoes, 11 l| kg. kg. (31 Ingredients.l* Ingredients. 11 kg. (J~ 1b.) strawberry tomatoes, (2f; pints, 3! lj litres (2i 3f pints) water. lb. 7 cups) sugar, 11 Put the into aa large saucepan. the sugar sugar and and water into Method. Put the strawberry tomatoes tomatoes in and and boil Bring to the boil. Drop tbe for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Drain in in aa fine fine sieve, sieve, or cheesecloth placed for it Measure with a saccharometer; it earthenware bowl. Measure over an earthenware (see SUGAR). 28' (see boil SUGAR). If the degree is lower, boil should register 28° an the syrup. Ifit If it is above 28', add add a little little water. water. Whisk Whisk an above 28°, down thesyrup. (6 tablespoons, cup) water water in in aa with 1I dl. dl. (6 scant 1-+ cup) tablespoons, scant egg white witb egg leaving itit whisk. Allow Allow the syrup syrup to clarify, clarify, leaving basin using an egg whisk. gently. simmering very very gently. of the stove, simmering for 20 minutes at the side of gradually Heat the the bottles bottles gradually through aa muslin Strain through muslin bag. bag. Heat Strain securely. and pour in the boiling boiling syrup. syrup. Cork Cork the the bottles, securely. and

with with! litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 2f 2! cups) cups) sugar sugar syrup syrup prepared prepared cold cold (see (see I litre SUGAR). Add Add the the juice juice of of 22 lemons lemons and I1 orange. Add to to SUGAR). this as as much much water water as as isis necessary necessary to to obtain obtain aa mixture mixture of of 16' 16° to this 18° density measured measured by by the the saccharometer. saccharometer. 18'density l'impératrice. FRArsEs FRAISES A À r'nrapinnrRrcE L'IMPÉRATRICE Strawberries à Pimperatrice. Prepare a dish of rice as as for Apricois tt à l'imp2ratrice l'impératrice (see (see Prepare APRICOT). Chill. ChilI. Just Just before before serving serving cover coyer the the rice rice with witb 250 APRICOT). g. (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) large strawberries sweetened with witb vanillaor plain plain sugar. sugar. flavoured or flavoured jamSee JAMS AND AND JELLIES. Strawberry jam Shawberry - See Strawberries with with liqueurs. liqueurs. FRArsEs FRAlSES ALrx AUX LIeIJEURS LIQUEURS - Remove Remove Shawberries sugar them in a dessert dish dish or clean strawberries and sugar stems, clean glasses. Sprinkle with with one one of the the following: following: in individual glasses. brandy, raspberry brandy, brandy, kumkirsch, maraschino, cherry brandy, mel, Fine Fine Champagne (best Cognac) or with some sorne other other mel, liqueur. Serve Serve chilled. chilled. liqueur. maltaise. FRArsEs FRAlSES A À LA rrrlrrusn MALTAlSE - Sugar Sugar Strawberries ià la maltaise. Sfrawberries strawberries, add orange orange juice juice and aa little little Curagao Curaçao and small strawberries, on ice. ice. Put Put this this mixture mixture into baskets made made of of the oranges cool on Arrange on a dish which the juice has been extracted. Arrange from which wi th crushed crushed ice. ice. covered with covered Iced strawberry mousse -- See ICE CREAMS AND ICES, mousses mous seline s. IIced ced mous se s or mousselines. Strawberry PULPE DE FRAISES POUR GLACES FouR GLAcES Sfrawberry pulp for ices. pulpn very ripe ripe strawberries through tbrough aa fine fine sieve. sieve. To 1I litre Rub very (l| pints, generous (scant (scant pint, pint, 2! 2| cups) ofthisjuice ofthisjuice add 1I litre litre (It quart) sugar syrup 35° measured by the saccharometer quart) syrup at 35o saccharometer (see juice of IIlemon. SUGAR) thejuice well. Place Place in a cburn churn SUGAR) and the lemon. Mix weil. freezer. freezst. put.pE DE Strawberry pulp for ices, bottled. CONSERVE DE PULPE for iceg coNsERvE DE FRAISES PouR POUR GLACES Make aa purée pur6e of fresb fresh strawberries FRArsEs cLAcEs -- Make and pass through through a very fine sieve. sieve. Add 250 g. (9 oz., generous (2f lb.) fruit. Mix thoroughly cup) thoroughly and put cup) sugar to each 1I kg. (2! into preserving preserving jars. Close Close jars and place in aa canning kettle. Coyer to Boil for 5 to minutes and and leave to to 6 minutes Cover with cold water. Boil cool out, wipe and and seal cool in the canning kettle. Take the jars out, them. Keep in aa cool place in a slanting position. Strawberry ratafia. as for ratafia. RATAFIA RATAFIA DE DE FRAlSES FRArsEs -- Proceed Proceed as Raspberry (see LIQUEUR) using ripe Raspberry liqueur (see ripe strawberries instead of raspberries.. of raspberries Strawberry sauce -- See See SAUCE, SAUCE, Dessert sauces. ·See SOUFFLÉS, Strawberry soufflé soufl6 --'See SOUFFLES, Sweet Sweet soufflés. souffiis. Strawberry tarts and tartlets ARTS, TTARTLETS. AR TLETS. tartleb -- See See T TARTS, Strawberries vINs DE DE dessert wines. FRAlSES FRArsEs AUX AUx VINS Strawberries with various dessert LIQUEURS strawberries. Dredge Dredge LIQLJEURS - Remove Remove stems stems and and clean clean strawberries. with glass dishes dishes or sugar. Arrange in individual glass or in in aa fruit fruit with sugar. Arrange in dish. sherry, dish. Sprinkle with with Frontignan, Frontignan, muscatel, muscatel, Madeira, Madeira, sherry, port or Marsala. Serve chilled. Serve chilled.

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petals off offthe stalk To take the the leaves leaves or or petais EFFEUILLER -- To STRIP. the stalk STRIP. EFFEUILLER globe artichoke if the the heart heart only only isis Thus globe artichoke is stripped stripped if of aa plant. Thus also stripped stripped such as as chervil chervil and and sorrel, sorrel, are are also used. Herbs, Herbs, such to be used. before use.

(Anstrian cookery) In Austria Austria the the stritzel stritzelisthe cookery) -- In STRITZEL is the STRITZEL (Austrian classic Christmas cake cake.. classic Christmas (9 oz., (2* lb., g. (9 250 g. oz., cups) sifted sifted fiour, flour, 250 kg. (2i lb., 99 cups) Ingredients. Ingredients.l1 kg. (i (2t oz., g. (1 g. (21 sugar, 15 generous cup) I 5 g. cup) sugar, cup) butter, butter, 66 eggs, eggs, 60 60 g. oz't cup) generous (scant pint, yeast, I litre pint, 2i 2| cups) cups) warm warm milk, milk, fresh yeast,! litre (scant oz., 1 cake) fresh oz.,lcake) raisins, 22lemons, oz., tf; cup) cup) each each sultanas sultanas and and raisins, nS g.g. (41 125 lemons, 11{ t Gi oz., pinch of pinch of grated nutmeg of salt, aa pinch nutmeg and and aa pinch teaspoons of grated teaspoons salt, powdered cumin. cumin. quarter of little the fiour, flour, aa little of the dough with with aa quarter Method. Method. Make Make aa dough yeast, salt, Leave nutmeg and and aa !ittle little butter. butter. Leave milk, the yeast, salt, sugar, sugar, nutmeg milk, the to to rise. rise. the to itit the the rest rest 'of bf the Knock back dough after after adding adding to Knock back the the dough raisins and and the raisins the eggs, remaining butter, butter, the fiour. flour. Add Add the eggs, the the remaining (see in the way as as for for Brioche Brioche dough dough (see sultanas and work work in the same same way sultanas and Leave to to rise rise keeping the fairly firm firm.. Leave mixture fairly DOUGH), DOUGH), keeping the mixture again. again. pieces -- 99 Divide itit into into pieces Knock more. Divide dough once Knock back back the the dough once more. medium and and 22 small. small. 4 large, 3 medium are needed to to make make aa stritzel: are needed stitzel;4large,3 plait pieces into same length length and and plait 'tails' of Make all these these pieces into 'tails' of the the same Make ail plait on Plait baking sheet. sheet. Plait the 4 largest. Lay Lay this this plait on aa buttered buttered baking the 4largest. place on Twist top of of the the first. first. Twist the medium-sized tails tails and and place on top the 33 medium-sized plaits. Stick the Stick the the ends ends smallest tails tails and and set set on on top top of of the the plaits. the 22 smallest together neatly. Leave Leave to to rise rise aa little. little. together neatly. caraway Brush little salt salt and and caraway with egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with aa little Brush with seeds. Bake in in aa fairly fairly hot hot oyen. seeds. Bake oven.

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STRAWBERRY TOMATO. Fruit originating originating TOMATO. ALKÉKENGE N,rfrsNce -- Fruit lied Mexican in it isis ca It isis one one of of tomato. It in Mexico Mexico where where it called Mexican tomato. several plant physalis. The tomato plant several species species of The strawberry strawberry tomato of physalis. belongs to potato. and the the potato. to the the same same family family as as tbe the tomato tomato and Strawberry grows very in the south very weil tomato grows well in in France, France, in the south Strawberry tomato and husk tomato tomato or or It isis sometimes sometimes called called husk around Paris. Paris. It and around winter our yellow in in col colour cherry. The The fruit fruit isis the the size size of cherry, yellow winter cherry. of aa cberry, and parchmenthas aa sour-sweet sour-sweet taste. taste. It It isis surrounded surrounded by by aa parchmentand has like yellowish-grey in not open. in colour, does not open. which does like calyx, calyx, yellowish-grey colour, whicb Strawberry tomatoes are are used used in in confectionery. confectionery. Strawberry tomatoes Strawberry compote. COMPOTE coMporu D'ALKÉKENGES D'AIKEKENcES -tomato compote. Shawberry tomato Ingredients. ( I 8 oz., (21 lb.) g. (18 oz., kg. (2i lb.) strawberry strawberry tomatoes, tomatoes, 500 500 g. Ingredients. 1I kg. 2icups) (] pint, pint, scant peel of sugar, 22 dl. water, peel of 1I lemon. lemon. 2| cups) sugar, dl. (1 scant cup) cup) water, Method. to the the boil boil Make aa syrup syrup of of sugar sugar and and water, water, bring bring to Method. Make and removed their their and add add the the strawberry strawberry tomatoes, tomatoes, baving having removed calyxes. Cook for for 55 minutes. minutes. calyxes. Cook Remove perforated spoon, to an an spoon, transfer transfer to Remove tbe the fruit fruit with with aa perforated earthenware put the peel in Boil in the the middle. middle. Boil and put the lemon lemon peel earthenware bowl bowl and down pour itit over the syrup syrup and and pour over the the fruit. fruit. down the 903 903

STROMATEUS STROMATEUS slicesor orfricandeau whichare arebraised llkefricandeauofofveal. braised likefricandeau slices veal. fricandeauwhich mayalso alsobe besmoked smoked like likesalmon. salmon. ItIt may Sturgeon ài lalaBrimont. Brimont. ESTURGEON EsruRGEoN ÀALA rl BRIMONT snrlroNr - - Fillet Filletaa Sturgeon medium-sized sturgeon. sturgeon. Trim Trim the thefillets. fillets.Thread Threadanchovy anchovy medium-sized fillets into intothem. them. Place Placeininaabaking baking dish dish lined linedwith withafondue fillets a fondue of of carrots, onions onionsand and celery, celery, finely finelysliced slicedand andcooked cookedslowly slowly inin carrots, until very butter until very tender. tender. Cover peeled, chopped Coverwith with22peeled, choppedand butter and deseeded tomatoes tomatoes mixed mixed with with 44tablespoons tablespoons coarsely coarsely diced diced deseeded mushrooms. Surround potatoes cut Surround with with potatoes cutinto intolittle little balls with mushrooms. balls with ball-scoop, half half cooked cooked inin salted salted water waterand and drained. aa bali-scoop, drained. Moisten with with 1I dl. dl.(6(6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant cup)dry scant1f cup) Moisten drywhite white (2oz., wine. Dot Dot with with 50 50g.g.(2 oz.,* cup) butter, pieces. cutinto into tiny wine. i cup) tiny pieces. butter, cut Bake in in aacool cool oven, oven, basting bastingfrequently. frequently. Five Fiveminutes Bake minutesbefore before taking out oftheoven, of the oven, sprinkle sprinkle with with breadcrumbs ta king out breadcrumbs and andbrown brown lightly. Iightly. Stmgeonin Champagne. ESTURGEON EsruRGEoN AU Sturgeon in Champagne. - Skin AU CHAMPAGNE cHAMnAGNTSkin medium-sized sturgeon. sturgeon. Trim Trim it. it.Stud aa medium-sized Stud with with truffies. truffies. Steep for Steep for hour in in aa marinade marinade of of brandy, brandy, salt, pepper. 1I hour salt, spices spices and and pepper. pan on Put the the fish fish in in aa pan grid. Moisten on aa buttered buttered grid. Put Moisten with with fish fish made with with dry dry Champagne, Champagne, boiled fumet boiled down down and and enriched enriched fumet made pint, scant with 22 dl. dl. (1 scant cup) cup)fine with frne mirepoix mirepoix made made of carrots, of carrots, $ pint, onions and and celery, celery, cooked cooked slowly slowly in onions in butter butter until until very very tender. tender. Bring to to the the boil boil on on the the ststove, ove, then Bring cook in in aa moderate then cook moderate oven, basting frequently. basting frequently. oven, Drain the the sturgeon. sturgeon. Glaze Glaze in in the Drain the oven. Place on oven. Place on aalarge large dish dish and surround surround with garnish indicated. with the the garnish and indicated. Moisten the the stock stock with (scant tI pint, with2| 21 dl. Moisten dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) cup) dry champagne. champagne. Boil Boil down. down. Add (scant I pint, dry Add 2+ dl. pint, generous generous dl. (scant clp) Espagnole (see SA Espagnole sauce sauce (see U CE) based cup) SAUCE) based on on fish fish stock, stock, carefully skimmed. skimmed. Boil Boil down. down. Season. carefully g. (4 (4 oz., Season. Add Add 100 100 g. oz., tt cup) butter. butter. Strain. Strain. Pour Pour over cup) over the the fish. fish. Sturgeon braised braised in in champagne Sturgeon champagne can plain in served plain can be be served in its its juice, or own juice, or with with various garnishes. Among own various garnishes. Among the the most most garnishes are suitable garnishes suitable are the the following: following: Chambord, Chambord, mushrooms, mushrooms, cucumbers, turtle, braised cucumbers, turtle, truffies. truffies. Curied sturgeon. stmgeon. ESTURGEON Curried EsruRGEoN AU AU CURRIE cuRRrE -- Cook Cook aa fillet fillet of of sturgeon weighing weighing about (li lb.) g. (Il sturgeon large about 800 800 g. lb.) in in butter, butter, with with 22large sliced onions onions and and aa bouquet garni. Season sliced bouquet garni. pepper Season with with salt, salt, pepper and 2 teaspoons curry powder. Drain and curry powder. Drain the put itit the sturgeon sturgeon and and put on aa serving serving dish. Keep hot. on pan juices with 22 dl. Dilute the panjuices (] pint, scant dl. (1 scant cup) dry white white cup) dry wine. Boil down. Moisten with wine. with 33 dl. pint, li dl. (| pint, lf cups) cups) Velouté Velout| (see SAUCE) sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based based on on fish fish stock. stock. Season Season with with 22 teaspoons curry curry powder mixed with 5 tablespoons (6 tabletablespoons (6 tablespoons) spoons) fresh fresh cream. cream. Boil Boil for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Add Add 33 tablespoons (scant i* cup) butter. butter. Strain this sauce pour over sauce and and pour over the sturgeon. sturgeon. Serve with Rice (see RICE). Rrce àit l'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). Fillets of sturgeon Boris. FILETS FTLETS D'ESTURGEON D'EsruRGEoN BORIS BoRrs -- Flllet Fillet a medium-sized medium-sized sturgeon. sturgeon. Trim the fillets. Steep Steep for 1t hour in in juice, salt, marinade of aa marinade of oil, oil, lemon juice, paprika and salt, paprika and spices. spices. Drain. Put them them in an ovenware pint, scant Put ($pint, ovenware dish lined with 22 dl. (1 scant cup) cup) dry duxelles mixed with chopped chopped chives. Moisten with 22 ($ pint, scant cup) dry white wine. Bring to the boil on the dl. d stove then cover cover and cook in the oven for for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Cover the fillets with coarsely coarsely shredded truffies. Pour the marinade pint, lf li cups) fresh cream. Moisten with 3 dl. (t over them. Moisten (f pint, cream. Dot with with tiny pieces pieces of of butter. butter. Finish cooking Dot cooking in aa cool oven, oven, basting frequently frequently with with cream. Serve Serve in the the ovenware basting ovenware dish. dish. Fricandeau of of stmgeon sturgeon ià la hongroise. FRTcANDEAU FRICANDEAU Fricandeau la hongroise. D'ESTURGEON A À r.,l LA soxcRorsE HONGROISE - Brown D'EsruRcEoN thick slice slice of of - Brown aa thick sturgeon in butter butter with finely diced diced onions. Season sturgeon Season with with salt, salt, paprika and aa bouquet bouquet garni. Moisten Moisten with 22 dl. (1 pint, scant paprika scant $ pint, cup) white wine. Boildown. Boil down. Add Add 33 dl. (t pint, llcups) li cups) Velouté cup)whitewine. (|pint, Veloutt sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based on fish stock. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in aa sauce butter to the sauce sauce and and pour pour it over over the the fish. oven. Add Add butter slow oven. fish. Serve with with boiled potatoes. potatoes. Serve FRICANDEAU D'EsruRGEoN D'ESTURGEON AU AU Fricandeau of ofsturgeon au jus. jus. rnrceNoEAu Fricandeau sturgeon au

Stromateus Stromateus

(Rudderfish). STROMATÉE STROMATEUS (Rudderfish). srRoMArEe -- Fish Fish of of warm warm STROMATEUS and temperate seas, inhabiting temperate seas, inhabiting the the Mediterranean, Mediterranean, where where itit isis and called stromatéefiatole, stromaftefiatole,lapuga, in Nice, Nice, and and lippa, lippa,in Sdte. Its Its called lapuga, in in Sète. flesh is is very very delicate prepared in delicate and and isis prepared in the the same way as as turbot same way turbot ftesh (q.v.). (q.v.). (Bavarian cookery) STRUDEL (Bavarian cookery) -- National National cake cake of of Bavaria. Bavaria. ItIt STRUDEL is made made of noodle pastry pastry with of noodle with extra extra butter butter and and isis rolled rolled out out as as is possible. thinly as as possible. thinly Divide the pastry into the pastry into squares squares and and spread spread each each with with aa Divide mixture of of diced diced apples, apples, butter, butter, currants currants and and chopped chopped mixture almonds, ftavoured flavoured with with cinnamon cinnamon and and aa !ittle little brandy. brandy. almonds, Moisten the the edges edges of of the the strudels, strudels, roll roll them, put into them, and and put into aa Moisten saut6 dish. buttered sauté dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and brown. brown. buttered Pour aa little little milk milk into into the poach, covered, the dish dish and and poach, covered, in in the the Pour The strudels oven. The strudels are are cooked cooked when when the the milk milk has has been been oven. absorbed. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with sugar sugar when when they they come come out out of of the the absorbed. and eat hot. hot. oven, and

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STUFF, TO. TO. FARCIR r,lncn -- To To fill fill with with farce farce or or other other mixture mixture STUFF, (pur6e, salpicon, salpicon, ragoût, ragofit, etc.) etc.) the the interior interior of of fish, fish, chicken, chicken, (purée, game, meat (slitting itit to meat (slitting pocket), hollowed to make make aa pocket), hollowed out out game, vegetables, etc.

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wooDcocK WOODCOCK Add these these ingredients ingredients to 2 dl. $ (1 pint, scant cup) dry dry white white wine boiled smal1 chopped shallots. shallots·. boiled down in a pan with 2 small Moisten witn with Zt dl. dl. (scant (scant I pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) thickened brown game fumet cup) gameJumet brown veal stock to which l+ It dl. (+ (i pint, f~ cup) (q.v.) (q.v.) has has been been added. Boil for 10 minutes. Strain through through a sieve, pressing extract all ail thejuices the juices from the carcase. Put pressing to extract the the strained strained sauce sauce into into a a saut6 sauté pan, pan, add add to to it it I1 or or 22 tablespoons tablespoons veal veal stock, stock, and and boil boil down down to to the the right consistency. sistency. Season the sauce to taste, add add I1 tablespoon prepreviously brandy, and and strain through through' a a fine strainer. viously flamed flamed brandy, Pour woodcock and heat Pour this this sauce sauce over over the pieces pieces of ofwoodcock heat without

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Cook Cook like an ordinary soufflé. ordinary souffi6. A LA SOUVAROV BÉCASSE À Prepare Woodcock ià la Souvarov. Woodcock souvARov -- Prepare Souvarov. BfcAssE like like Partridge dà la Souvarov (see PARTRIDGE). PAR TRIDGE). Supr0mes Suprêmes ofwoodcock. of woodcock. supn8uns SUPRÊMES os DE nfcessn BÉCASSE - Prepare Prepare 1like i ke any any of of the recipes for chicken chicken suprOmes. suprêmes. (See CHICKEN.) Timbale of woodcock woodcock (hot). TIMBALE DE BÉCASSE - Line a nnan,r.rn os sfcA,ssE pie-dish with pie pastry and add add thin rashers of fat fat bacon. bacon.

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FORCEMEATS), FORCE MEATS), mixed with diced trufles. truffles. Bone 2 woodcocks, stuff stuff with a piece of of foie Joie gras studded studded with pieces of truffe, truffie, roll into ballottines, ballottines, brown briskly in butter butter and put into the dish. Cover Co ver the the woodcocks woodcocks and and fill fill in in the the spaces spaces with with fine forcemeat, mixed with a purée purbe of offoie JOie gras and the intestines, intestines, through a sieve, well weil seasoned and flavoured with a rubbed through dash of of brandy. brandy. Over this forcemeat put a layer of dà gratin gratin game plling it slightly game forcemeat, forcemeat, piling slightly into a dome shape. Cover Coyer rashers of fat fat bacon, then with pastry cut to the with thin rashers diameter diameter of the the dish, dish, sealing sealing the the edges to to form fonn a a ridge. ridge. shapes. Make Make a hole hole in the Decorate with pastry cut in fancy shapes. escape. Brush with beaten egg and centre to allow steam to escape.

allowing allowing to to boil. boil. Put the pieces pieces of of woodcock woodcock into into a timbale, pour pour the sauce sauce Put the over them them and garnish with heart-shaped crofitons croûtons fried in in butter. butter. The woodcock can be The salmis salmis of ofwoodcock be served served on on a crofiton croûton cooked in in butter butter and spread with the trail of the the bird. bird. When it is served served with with heart-shaped heart-shaped crofitons croûtons these these can be be spread spread with with dà gratin gratin game gameforcemeat FORCEMEATS). .forceme at (see FORCEMEATS). All AlI the the recipes recipes for the the preparation preparation of of various various salmis salmis will be be found found under under the the entry entry SALMIS. SALMIS. Saut6ed Sautéed woodcock woodcock ià la la Brillat-Savarin. 8riUat-Savarin. atclsn BÉCASSE sAUTfE SAUTÉE BRILLAT-sAvARrN BRILLAT-SAVARIN -- Prepare Prepare the the woodcock woodcock as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Sautbed Sautéed n'oodc'oc,k lVoodcock in in Champagne Champagne (see (see below) below) replacing replacing Champagne Champagne by by Madeira. Madeira. Arrange Arrange the the pieces pieces of of woodcock woodcock in in aa flan case lined with Short Short pastry pasll")' (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Garnish Garnish with with aa ragofit ragoût of of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys. kidneys. saut6ed sautéed lamb lamb sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies truffles and and mushrooms, mushrooms. bound bound with with boiled boiled down down Demi-glace Demi-glace (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on a game.fumet gamejumet (q.v.). (q.v.). Pour Pour over over the the gravy gravy left left from from cooking cooking the the woodcock. woodcock. Saut6ed Sautéed woodcock woodcock in in Champagne. Champagne. n6cassE BÉCASSE sAUTEE SAUTÉE AU AU cHAMpAcNE CHAMPAGNE -- Cut Cut the the woodcock woodcock into into pieces. pieces. Use Use the the carcase carcase and and the the trimmings trimmings to to prepare prepare aa fumet Jumet (q.v.) and and add add rich rich Demi-glace Demi-glace (see (see SA SAUCE). UCE ). Put Put the the pieces pieces of of woodcock woodcock in in aa saut6 sauté pan pan just just big big enough enough to to hold hold them them and and brown brown briskly briskly in in butter. butter. Cover Coyer the the pan pan and and simmer simmer for for 81) minutes. minutes. Drain Drain the the pieces, pieces, arrange arrange in in aa timbale timbale or or in in aa shallow shallow dish, dish. and and keep keep hot. hot. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with aa glass glass of of dry dry Champagne, Champagne, add add the the strained strained concentrated concentrated woodcock woodcockJumet (q.v.) and and boil boil for for .fumet (q.v.) aa few Thicken this this sauce sauce with with the the chopped chopped few moments. moments. Thicken intestines. intestines, season season with with aa small small pinch pinch of of cayenne cayenne and and add add aa teaspoon teaspoon butter butter and and aa dash dash of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Strain Strain the the sauce sauce and and pour pour itit over over the the woodcock, woodcock, piping piping hot. hot. Saut6ed Sautéed woodcock woodcock with with trufles. truffles. stcassr BÉCASSE SAUTEE SAUTÉE AUx AUX rnurnns TRUFFES -- Prepare Prepare the the woodcock woodcock as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Sautded Sautéed woodcock woodcock in in Champagne. Champagne. Rub Rub the the woodcock's woodcock's intestines intestines through through a a fine fine sieve, sieve, mix mix with with ri à gratin gratin game game Jorcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) spread spread on on aa croOton, croûton, fried fried in in forcemeat butter, and brown brown the the top. top. Arrange Arrange the the woodcock woodcock on on this this butter, and cro0ton. croûton. Toss Toss aa dozen dozen thick thick slices slices of of truffies truffles in in the the cooking cooking butter, butter, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, moisten moisten with with I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant It cup) cup) Madeira Madeira and and boil boil down. down. Add Add 55 tablespoons tablespoons (} (t cup) cup) game/zmet gamejumet (q.v.) (q.v.) and and pour pour over over the the woodcock. woodcock. Woodcock Woodcock soufl6. soufflé. sounrrf SOUFFLÉ nr DE nfcssrBÉCASSE - Bone Bone an an uncooked uncooked woodcock woodcock and and prepare prepare aa souffi€ soufflé mixture, mixture, adding adding alittlefoie a IittleJoie gras and the the bird's bird's intestines intestines rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve. sieve. gras and Fill Fill aa buttered buttered souffi6 soufflé dish dish three-quarters three-quarters full full with with the the mixture and poach poach in in the the oven, oyen, in in aa bain-marue bain-marie from from 25 25 to to 35 35 mixture and minutes, minutes, according according to to the the size size of ofthe the dish. dish. Serve Serve with with Madeira Madeira sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on game game essence. essence. sauce (see Woodcock Woodcock souffi6 soufflé can can also also be be prepared prepared using using cooked cooked flesh flesh pounded pounded in in aa mortar mortar and and rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve. sieve. Add Add to to itit either Demi-glace or or Velouti Velouté sauce sauce made made with with concentrated concentrated either Demi-glace game game stock stock (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bind Bind with with aa liaison liaison of of 22 egg egg yolks yol ks and and fold fold in in the the stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten whites. whites.

cook cook in in a hot oven oyen for lf li hours. Leave for a few moments before taking it out of the pie dish and and pour in a a few few tablespoons of dish. Arrange on a dish Demi-glace (see (see SAUCE), SA UCE), based based on concentrated concentra ted game game stock. stock. Demi-glace hot timbales, timbales, whatever their their nature, are are lined with Usually hot Usually Pastry dough (see (see PASTRY) its its main purpose pur pose being ordinary Pastry its strength. strength. its pie dish dish can be be lined with Short Short paslry pastry (see DOUGH) The pie which will will make make the crust more more edible. edible. which of woodcock woodcock (cold). (cold). TTMBALE TIMBALE DE DE BEcASsE BÉCASSE - Prepare Prepare Timbale of in a pie pie dish, lined with with Fine Fine lining lining paste paste (see DOUGH) and in in the recipe for for Timbale of oJ woodcock woodcock cook as described in ((hot). hot ). Leave to cool. cool. Pour Pour into into it liquid aspic jelly based based on Leave concentrated game game stock, flavoured with Madeira Madeira or some sorne concentrated other wine. Allow Allow to to get get quite quite cold before taking out of of the other pie pie dish. dish. Truffled woodcock woodcock (in (in casserole). casserole). n6cassE BÉCASSE TRUFF6ETRUFFÉE - Prepare Prepare Truffied the woodcock woodcock as described described in the the recipe below beJow for Truffied the woodcock. Cook Cook it in in an an earthenware casserole casserole as as roast woodcock. described in in the the recipe recipe for Woodcock Woodcock in casserole. casserole. At the the end described with a a dash dash of brandy brandy and and a a few of cooking, sprinkle with tablespoons of of gamefumel gameJumet (q.v.). (q.v.). tablespoons roast woodcock. woodcock. s6csss BÉCASSE rnurr6n TRUFFÉE ROrIE RÔTIE -- Remove Remove Truffled roast Trufled backbone and and stuff the the woodcock woodcock with with lard mixed mixed with the backbone the prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Forcemeatfor Forcemeat Jor truffles, prepared truffies, pouhry (see truffiedpoultry (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) and and with with truffies, truffles, cut cut in in truffied pieces, for a a few few moments moments in in the the heated heated lard, lard, and and pieces, tossed tossed for seasoned with with Spiced Spiced salr salt (see (see SALT). seasoned

Suprême ofwoodcock ofwoodcock Suprdme

1001 l00l

WOODEN WOODEN PLINTH of the skin of of truffie under Slip a a dozen dozen thin slices slices of under the the skin woodcock, raising Truss and bard the bird. Wrap raising it gently. Truss Wrap it it and cook on a in a piece of buttered gxeaseproof greaseproof paper and a spit 18 to 20 minutes. from 20 to 25 minutes. oyen from from 181020 minutes, or in the oven Arrange fned bread, canapC of Arrange the woodcock on a canapé offried bread, which may Roast for Roasi be as described in the recipe for he spread with wjth the trail, as woodcock. Serve with its own juices juices or with Pdrigueux Périgueux sauce SAUCE). (see SAUCE). stuffed with Truffied woodcock should be Truffled woodcock should be stuffed with trufres tmffles and forcemeat at least two days before before itil is cooked.

districts the Vosges, the and the the Pyrenees. In In these tbese districts tbe Alpes, Alpes, and de bruyère, bruybre, aa magnificent bird, is grouse or grand coq de great grouse prepared same way prepared and cooked cooked in the same way as pheasant. pheasant. In countries, the bird is first left to soak for ln north north European European countries, for 2 to 3 days in cream. For its preparation, preparation, see PHEASANT. PHEASANT. WOODPECKER. prc PIC

Edible scansorial scansorial bird bird which, which, in in -- Edible France, is prepared France, prepared like blackbird blackbird (q.v.) or thrush (q.v.).

WOOD Species of ring dove or wild WOOD PIGEON. PIGEON. eALoMBE PALOMBE - Species pigeon, prepared like like ordinary pigeon. This bird bird is is called pigeon, prepared palombe palombe or ramier in French. French.

WOODEN WOODEN PLINTH. PLINTH. MANDRIN - Formerly, these plinths plintbs were covered with such substances as modelling modelling fat, butter, butter, of cold decorative sugar sugar motifs, etc., etc., for for the the presentation of of presentation has dishes displayed displayed on plinths. plinths. This method of dishes of and is now been almost completely abandoned abandoned and been almost is merely of historical historical interest. interest. In ln former times, these wooden plinths plinths were were much used. used. speaks oflhem of them for, at that time, Car6me, in his writings, often speaks Carême, of supports of dishes were almost always presented on plinths plinths or supports dishes were almost decorated. one kind or another, aIl all more or less less elaborately elaborately decorated. Nowadays it serye cold food il is usual to 10 serve food either simply laid laid jelly in a bowl. out on aa dish, or covered with jelly

WORCESTERSHIRE spiced sauce SAUCE -- Highly WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE Highly spiced originally manufactured in Worcester. Worcester.

A kind WORMSEED WORMSEED (U.S.A. Mexican tee) lea) -- A kind of of tea tea proprosweet-smelling flower. duced by the ambroissier shrub with a sweet'smelling attributed to Restorative and and stomachic properties are attribuled to the infusion of this plant. infusion of of WORMWOOD. cnxept WORMWOOD. GENE PI - Name Name applied to several species of in the plants, among which are the plants, among which are the Alpine Alpine yarrow, yarro\;', used used in preparation milfoil, the musk and the of medicinal preparation of medicinal herb-teas, herb-teas, and musk mi/foil, The musk musk milfoit milfoil is which aid digestion. The which is is believed believed to to aid is the made main ingredient of a liqueur (liqueur d'Ira or lrabitter) habiller) made in Italy from aa number of different Alpine in Switzerland and Italy

WOOD GROUSE. COQ coe DE enuytRE WOOD GROUSE. BRUYÈRE - Bird belonging to the of The wood Gallinae order. Gal/inae order. The wood grouse grouse is is the the largest largest type type of

herbs. distilled at at the the Grande herbs. Originally, Originally, the the liqueur liqueur distilled

game which is to be found in Europe. In its feathered feathered game Hs size and which has The bird, weight weight it it resembles resembJes the the turkey. The bird, which has very

Chartreuse bore Chartreuse bore this th is name.

abundance in delicate flesh, is found found in in considerable abundance in the flesh, is Hungary, Russia, Poland, Hungary, countries of northern northern Europe, in in Russia, of Germany. and in the Black Forest region of France. but is still found in the Ardennes, the It is rarer in France,

WRAP. EMBALLER -- To envelope envelope a joint meat, etc. first in a WRAP. EMBALLER joint of ofmeat, slice of pork case of of pork or pig's pig's caul, then in in aa cloth or, in in the case certain puddings and other other similar similar preparations, certain puddings and preparations, in in aa buttered cloth. bu ttered and floured c\oth,

1002

royal cured his his royal and cured flock of of sheep sheep and with aa flock arrived on foot with on foot arrived concoction. of his concoction. the secret secret ofhis client, but refused refused to to divulge the client, yoghourt consists consists making yoghourt for making The method in Bulgaria for used in method used The over aa by one-third one-third over milk by of reducing the the partially skimmed milk. of has When itit has into bowls. bowls. When up into is then divided divided up slow heat. heat. The milk is slow previous (86"F.) some from ilp previous leaven from some leaven cooled to 30"C. (86°F.) about 30°C. to about cooled and isis slipped slipped called Maya Maya and It isis called introduced. It fermentation isis introduced. fermentation milk of the the milk the surface surface of formed on on the which has has formed under the the skin skin which under at aa for 24 24 ho hours left for are left it. The The bowls bowls are without breaking it. without urs at in 24 hours hours in for 24 kept for 25C. (77"F.), then then kept temperature of about 25°C. place before before being being used. a cool place into have come come into curds have In Europe, Europe, since oriental curds since these these oriental ln wholeevaporated who factory-produced, evaporated fashion, they have been been factory-produced, fashion, lethey have pur6e culture culture of of selected selected with aa purée cream milk treated with cream milk being being treated lactic ferments. ferments. lactic

plant found in hot XIMENIA. )flMfi.rE X1MÉN1E -- Type found in Type of of small small plant XIMENIA. among species, among number of species, are aa number countries, of which which there there are in Africa. them the ximenia of Gabon which widespread in is widespread which is are The wild limes, limes, are plums or or wild as mountain mountain plums The fruits, fruits, known known as edible. tree isis aa XYLOPIA. XYLOPlE tropical tree this tropical fruit of of this The fruit xyLopIE --- The condiment pepper) known as malaguetta malaguetta (a substitute for known as for pepper) condiment (a paradise. pepper or grains of ofparadise.

yYAK. AK. YACK grunting wild or domestidomestiwild or vacr -- Long-haired humped grunting cated ox of of Tibet. in The fiesh rich in is abundant, abundant, rich milk is the milk is edible; edible; the flesh of of the yak is butter and milk. cow's milk. goat's milk than than cow's like goat's is more more like and casein. casein. It is YAM. IGNAME - Climbing root isis edible edible large root plant. Its very large Its very YAM.IGNAME - Climbing plant. and potato' A A starch starch as the the sweet sweet potato. way as in the same way is prepared in the same and is called yams, is much is much from yams, also extracted extracted from called Guiana arrowroot, also used in cookery and confectionery.

which isis York ham, ham, which DE YORK YoRK -- York YORK YORK HAM. HAM. JAMBON JAMBoN DE has the the inEngland, England, has prepared in name in in the the same samename of the prepared the town town of Europe. best in inEurope. reputation of reputation of being being the the best but maturity, early ma pigsare for their theirearly Yorkshire tu rit y, but Yorkshire pigs remarkable for are remarkable byaa accompaniedby meat isisaccompanied their little soft, and their their meat their fat fat isis aa little soft, and proporiion of fat. large of fat. large proportion

YEAST. group' fungus group, of aa fungus organism of Microscopic organism YEAST. LEVURE LEvuRE -- Microscopic which which are are produces ferments ferments which and produces which multiplies multiplies rapidly rapidly and converting starch dioxide carbon dioxide into carbon and sugars sugars into starch and ofconverting capable of yeast -- fresh, fresh, dried dried of yeast main types types of There are are three three main and alcohol. alcohol. There and in making yeast are used in are used dried yeast and dried brewer's. Fresh Fresh and and brewer's. breads yeast is fresh yeast of fresh If an amount of an amount cakes. If and sorne breads and some cakes. mentioned but instead, but yeast can used instead, be used can be dried yeast recipe, dried mentioned in in aa recipe, only conmore conused as as itit isis more be used should be amount should half the the amount only half centrated. used (which isis slightly liquid) isis used yeast (which slightly liquid) centrated. Brewer's Brewer's yeast mainly goodsource source Yeast isis aa good ale. Yeast beer and and ale. in the of beer mainly in the brewing of ofVitamin form in the the form prescribed, medicinally, medicinally, in of Vitamin Band B and isis often prescribed, ofyeast extract. concentrated extract. ofyeast tablets tablets or or concentrated

pancake rather rather thickpancake kindof ofthick YORKSIllRE YORKSHIRE PlJDDING PUDDING -- AA kind served England,ititisisserved InEngland, than pudding inin the sense.In the ordinary ordinarysense. than aapudding with with roast roast beef. beef. 1It t isismade follows: made as asfollows: (18oz., flour 4|cups) cups) flour oz.,41 500g.g.(l8 Mix lumps 500 without lumps Mix together together without with pints)milk. (2|pints, pints,21 milk.Season Season with 2fpints) with litres(2* with44eggs eggsand and li lf litres paninin deeppan into aadeep grated nutmeg. Pour Pour into and grated salt, pepper and Bakeinin roast.Bake from the theroast. fatfrom which has been heated heatedsorne some of thefat

YOGHOIJRT, product milk product Curdled milk vlounr -- Curdled YOGHOURT, YOGlJRT. YOGURT. YAOURT from have aa which have ferments which with lactic lactic ferments from the Balkans made made with the Balkans much fermenting power than natural fermenting greater acidifying the natural than the much greater acidifying power agents. at be thought, at might be recent as as might notso so recent The use of yoghourt isisnot least King Frangois 1,I' that King recounts that least in in France. France. History History recounts suffering plaint which the hadresisted resisted the which had complaint from an an intestinal intestinal corn suffering from whole doctor Jewish doctor that aaJewish pharmacopoeia of heard that day,heard whole pharmacopoeia of the the day, from marvellous for marvellous responsible for had been beenresponsible from Constantinople Constantinople had cures preparedininaacertain certain curds prepared with milk milk curds cases, with cures in insimilar similar cases, way. doctor The doctor Paris-The practitioner toto Paris. way. He He brought brought this this practitioner

the theoven. oven. the If piece of beefisis being spit-roastedo placethe If the the piece of beef the Yorkshire underneath it when taking it fromthe Yorkshire puddingunderneath oven, pudding isisimpregnated impregnated with the juice thepudding oven,soso that the dripping beef. dripping from from the thebeef. andset set lozengesand Cut orlozenges puddinginto intosquares squares or Yorkshire pudding Cutthe theYorkshire serve ititon beefisisserved, served,ororserve whichthe thebeef onwhich thedish dishon onthe the edgesof ofthe ititseparately separately.

YULE Yulelog. logChristmasYule CAKES,Christmas YLJLE LOG LOG- -See SeeCAKES, 1003 1003

ZABAGLIONE. ZABAGLIONE. se,slvoN SABA YON -- A cream cream mousse mousse of of 1Italian talian origin which is used to coat hot puddings but also be but which which can can also

very low heat, whisking whisking vigorously vigorously unti] very mixture becomes until the mixture frothy and stiff. Zabaglione à ZabagJione l'asti. SABAYON i Pasti. sABAyoN À Made as A L'ASTI L'esrl -- Made as above, using using Asti Spumante instead of Spumante instead of white wine. Zabaglione au YON AU au Champagne. Champagne. SAHA AU CHAMPAGNE cHAMpAcNE -sABAyoN Follow basic zabaglione zabaglione recipe, recip, using Champagne Champagne instead of white wine. au frontignan frontignan (or other sweet wine). Zabaglione au wine). SABAYON sABAyoN AU FRoNTTcNAN OU ou AUTRES AU FRONTIGNAN AUTRES -- Follow basic zahaglione using using Frontignan (or any other ch as other type of liqueur su such as Madeira, Malaga, Marsala, port port or sherry). sherry). Zabaglione à ZabagJione la créole. A la cr6ole. SABAYON sABAyoN À A LA r-a CRÉOLE· cntole - Make Make a zabaglione with white wine, flavouring zabaglione flavouring it with orange peel. As soon as it becomes frothy, cool it by plunging plunging the bain-marie hain-rnarie

served sweet. served in cups or glasses, as a sweet. The word sabayon in French is a corruption of of the Italian

word zabaglione, zabaglione, and for this word the dictionary gives the following definition: Composed of the yolks of fresh fresh eggs, flavourings, cooked while beating to sugar, wine and some flavourings, make make it thicken. generous cup) sugar Beat together in a basin 250 g. (9 oz., generous a 'ribbon'. Flavour and 6 egg yolks until the mixture forms a'ribbon'. with I1 tablespoon vanilla sugar, orange, lemon or tangerine peel, peel, or or vanilla vanilla extract.

2t

Add2!- dl. (scant Add (seant {t pint, pin t, generous cup) sweet or dry white wine. Cook in a bain-marie ot or in a double saucepan over a

Zabaglione Zabaglione

1004 1004

ZWIEBACK ZWIEBACK into into aa basin basin of of cold cold water, water, still whisking whisking at at the the same time. time. Add Add 44 tablespoons tablespoons (* (-!- cup) cup) rum rum and 2| 21- dl. (scant (scant It pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) of of stiffiy whipped whipped cream. cream. Mix Mix and and serve in in a bowl bow\ set set in in crushed crushed ice. ice. Serve Serve immediately. immediately. Zabaglione SABA YON A À Ll LA rora KOLA -- Prepare Prepare some sorne ZabagJione ià la la kola. kola. sABAyoN zabaglione port wine. wine. When When the the mixture mixture begins begins to set, set, zabaglione using using port add add 22 teaspoons leaspoons of of the the following following mixture: equal equal quantities quantities of of liquid liquid cola cola extract extract and and liquid liquid coca coca extract extract flavoured flavoured with a little syrup made made from from the the rind rind of of bitter bitter oranges. oranges. little syrup This This zabaglione,whichshould zabaf:lione, which should be be eaten eaten very very hot, hot, is is not not only a very but also an an excellent excellent medicine. medicine. very tasty tasty dessert, but Zabaglione aux liqueurs. liqueurs. sABAyoN SABA YON AUx AUX ueuzuns LIQUEURS - Follow basic basic zabaglione zabaf:lione recipe recipe flavoured flavoured with a a liqueur (Cognac, (Cognac, anisette, cherry brandy, Chartreuse, kirsch, kirsch, rum, rum, kummel, kummel, etc.). etc.).

Hors-J'œuvre served served in in Russia. Russia. These These &orshors- Hors-d'urvre drinking a glass glass d'œuvr(' are usually eaten immediately immediately after drinking deuvre ofvodka. ofvodka. ln aa certain certain corps corps of of the Imperial Imperial Guard Guard itit was was the tradition In when entertaining entertaining young youngofficers provoke them to drink so when officers to provoke loasls with wilh the Ihe zakuski that Ihat they the y could go no further many toasts and had had to to be be carried carried to to beds beds which which had had usually usually been been and prepared prepared for them in advance! advance!

ZAKUSKI

lemon of lem Zeste of on (( Larousse Larousse))

coloured,, flavoured ZESTE -- French for 'peel', the extenor, exterior, coloured ZESTE part of tangerine, citron, etc. of lemon, orange, tangerine, of the skin of This an orange or lemon. This ZESTER -- Term meaning to peel ZESTER peel an called aa instrument called easier by using a special instrument operation is made easier zesteur, zesteur.

ZAMPINO -- See See PORK, Stuffed ZAMPINO Stuffed pig's leg. ZARA (Maraschino). (Maraschino). uanseulN MARASQUIN DE DE ZARA zARA -- Renowned ZARA made at Zara, aa Dalmatian village on the situated on village situated liqueur made at Zara, ltaly by the Treaty Treaty of Rapallo. Adriatic, which was ceded to Italy This liqueur is is much much used used in pastry-making and and conThis liqueur in pastry-making

Z,IB,EI. ZIBETH of chives from tropical Asia, used to znrilt -- Variety of ZIBET. ragofrts and salads. season sauces, ragoûts small cuts of meat ZINGARA-- Garnish which accompanies accompanies small ZINGARA lean or shredded shredded lean chopped or and poultry. It is made up of finely chopped witll DemiDemibound with. ham, tongue, trufres, bound tongue, mushrooms and and truffies, ham, glace sauce (see SAUCE) with tomato tomato and and flavoured with sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured glace tarragon essence. essence.

10 flavour fectionery to flavour sweets and ices.

ZEBU and ZEBIJ -- Bovine domesticated in Africa and Bovine mammal, widely domesticated Asia. lts Its flesh prepared like beef. flesh can be eaten and is prepared pe ZÉLANDE ZEELAND (Oysters). HUÎTRES This province zfr.lNpn -- This uuirnrs DE of the Low Countries, made up almost entirely of islands, islands, is situated at and Meuse. I'Escaut and rivers l'Escaut at the the mouths mouths of of the the rivers Zeeland see Tneland oysters various preparations see famous. For For various oysters are are famous. OYSTER. OYSTER.

pith found found in in oranges oranges French word word for for the the white pith ZISTE -- French just underneath peel. This This substance substance outer peel. the outer and lem lemons underneath the and ons just has aa rather bitter taste. green slender green In U.S.A. these slender Italian marrows. In ZUCCHINI -- Italian In England England zucchini. In or zucchini. called Italian Italian squash squash or are called vegetables are recipes For recipes courgettes. For or courgettes. they are are known as baby baby marrows or known as they ITALIAN MARROWS. see IT ALlAN MARROWS. see

ZEPHIR. to designate designate chefs to ZEPHIR. ZEPHYR -- Name used by sorne some chefs used by light and frothy preparations. It and quite wrongly, to mousses mousses and It isis often, wrongly, applied applied to often, quite mousselines grcs, fish and chicken. and chicken. mousselines of/oie of foie gras,

French bakeries. bakeries. found in in French ZWIEBACK-- Biscolte rusk found Biscotte or or rusk ZWIEBACK

1005 1005

Index

INDEX :

p photograph or p = photograph or illustration illustration

agar-agar 4,422

agaric 4-5,4p Agathon 5 Agave 5 Agnds Sorel 410

agnolotti

d la pi6montaise

A abaissel,1, 1lp abaisse P abat-faim 1I abat-faim

abel-musk 1I

abel~musk

ablutions, table table I ablutions, abomasum abomasum 1I abondance 1I abondance Abrantds, ri l' 393 .V .... "L'-", à l' 393 abrotonite abrotonite 1I Absinth 1I Absinth wine 1I wine absorption 22 absorption abstinence 22 abstinence Abutilon 22 Abutilon Acacia 22 Acacia fritters 396 396 friUers liqueur 555 555 liqueur Acanthus 22 Acanthus acatne 22 acarne accolade, in in 2, 2,2p accolade, aceline 22 aceline acetabulum 22 acetabulum acetic acid acid 22 acetic acetification 22 acetification acetimeter 22 acetimeter aceto-dolce aceto-dolce 22 acetomel acelomel 22 acetone acetone 22 achar(d)s 2,965 2,965 lemon lemon 22

palmetto

2

2

vegetable vegetable 22 Achillea Achillea 22 acid acid 2-3 2-3 acidifiers acidifiers 2-3 2-3

acidity 33

acidulated acidulated 33

acon acon 33 acorn acorn 33

acquette acquette 33 acridophage 3 acnao~)naJ~e 3 acroama acroama 3-4

Actinia Actinia 44 adoc adoc 44

adulteration adulteration 44 Aeginetia Aeginetia 44

Aegis ofRhodes Rhodes 44 Aegis of

Africa, Africa, North: North: culinary culinary specialities l0-11 10-11 africaine, eàl' l' 410 410 after-taste after-taste 44 agami 4,4p d la chilienne 4 '-lll"'""Jll\_ 4 agape 4

5

agone d'Istria d'Istria 55 agone agoranome agoranome 55 agou 55 agou agouti agouti 55 agras 55 agras aguaxima 55 aguaxima aguncate 55 aguncate

aigredecddre

aiguillette

5

5

aillade 5-6 5-6 aioli 66 aïoli garnished 6 d la grecque 6 deProvence 823 aisy 66 aisy Alaria 66 AJarÎa albacore 66 albacore albarelle 66 albarelle albatross 6,6p 6,6p albatross albigeoise 6,410 6,410 Albuf6ra d' d' 6,410 6,410 albumen 66 albumen albumin 6-7 6-7 albumin albuminoids 7,12 albuminoids 7, 12 albundigas albundigas 77 alcarraza 7,7p alcarraza 7,7p alcazar'l7 alcazar alcohol alcohol 88 alcoholism alcoholism 88 ale ale 88 posset posset 88 toast toast and and 88

Alectryon ."' ... ".",...." 88 albembic albembic 8-9,8p 8-9, algae 99 Algeria 9-l 9-11I alg6rienne, 1 ('f"'r,,,,~n .. d à l' l' 11, 11, 410 4\ 0 alica 1l alicuit alicuit l1 II aliment aliment l1-14 11-14 alimentation alimentation l4-15 14--15

alkalescents alkalescents l5 15 alkali alkali volatile volatile l5 15 alkaloids alkaloids 15 15 alkermes alkermes 15 15 Allaria Allana 15 15 alligator alligator 15 15 allspice 16 16 allumettes allumettes (cakes) (cakes) 16, 16, l6p 16p allumettes allumettes(pastry (pastry straws) straws) (hors-d'oeuvre) 469, (hors-d'oeuvre) 16, 16,469, 902 902 anchovy anchovy 466,469,902 466,469,902 dàI'andalouse l'andalouse 469 469

withcaviare caviare466 466 with chalonnaise470, 470. àdlalachalonnaîse 902 902 Chavette 470 470 Chavette cheese 902 902 cheese 470 àdl'lcarlate l'écarlate 470 l'6cossaise 470 470 àdl'écossaise florentine 470 470 àd lala florentine palate 16 ox palate 16 ox Parisian 466 466 Parisian perigourdine 16 16 àd lala périgourdine reine 16 16 àd lala reine toscane 16 16 àd lala toscane Vladimir 466 466 Vladimir almonds 16, 16, 16p l6p almonds Aboukir 16 16 Aboukir barcroquets 290 bar croquets 290 bitonnets 88 88 bâtonnets blanched 17 17 blanched Bordelais croquets 290 Bordelais butter 16, 16, 168 butter chopped 17 17 chepped cookies 16--17 16-17 cookies coloured 17-18 17-18 coloured cream 17, 17,286 cream 286 croissants 289 croissants diced 18 18 diced emulsion 359 emulsion iceqeam 492 cream 492 ice loaf 17 17 loaf macaroons maearoons 568-9 marzipan marzipan 578 marzipan sweets 578-9 578-9 marzipan sweets milk milk 17,359 17,359 Nantois Nantois 621 621 nougat nougat 17 17 oil 647 oil647 paste paste 17 17 plombidres ice jee cream crcam 493 493 praline 17 17 pudding, pudding, English 741 74 t raw raw 18 18 roasted roasted 18 18 salted salted 18 18 shredded shredded 18 18 souffi6 soufflé 866 866 sugared sugared 18 18 syrup syrup 912 912 tartlets tartlets l7 17 vacherin vacherin with wilh almond almond paste paste crown crown 951 951 whole t8 who1e l8 almonds, almonds, bitter bitter l7 17 essence essence 363 363 almonds, almonds,country l8 18 almonds, almonds, earth earth 18 almonds. almonds, sweet sweet 18 18 Alocasia AJocasia 18 18 Aloe Alee l8 18 alpheus 1818

1008 1008

Alsace 18-20 AJsacel8-20 charcuterie 19p l9p charcuterie gastronomic map map19p l9p gastronomie wine lodges262, 262,263p 263p wine map20p 20p alsacienne, d,l' 20, 410 " 20,410 alum 20 20 alum aluminite 20 20 alumînite kitchen utensils utensils in in 21p kitchen 2lp aluminium 21 2l aluminium amanita 21, 2l,2lp amanita 2lp Amaranth 21 2l Amaranth ambassadrice 410 410 ambassadrice ambergris 2l am bergris 21 Ambialet 546p 546p Ambialet ambigu 21-2 2l-2 ambrosia 22 22 ambrosia Am6l6on 22 22 Améléon America, Central: Central: America, cookery 501-2 501-2 South : cookery cookery America, South: 50r-2 501-2 am6ricaine, à)' dl' 22,410 américaine, 22,410 22 Amiens 22 amiral, à!' dl' 22 22 amiral, ammaperdrix 22 22 ammaperdrix: ammocoete 22 ammocoete ammonia 22 carbonate of ammonia, carbonate 22 Amomum 22 Amomum amourettes 22 Amphicles Amphides 22 Amphitryon Amphitryon 22-3 amphora 23,23p amphora 23, amygdaline 23 anaemia anacmia 23 23 anaemics: a naemics: diet diet for 23-4 23-4 anagnost 24 24 analect analect 24 24 analeptic 24 analysis 24 24 anaphylaxis 24 24 anchovies anchevies 24,24p,459 24, 459 anchoyade anehoyade 26,470 470 barquettes barquettes 471 471 butter butter 168 168 canap6s ... ,""Ol_"'-è> 24,25p 24,25p cro0tes croûtes 476 476 dartois dartois 477 477 essence essence 363 363 fillets flUets 25 25 forcemeat forcemeal 388 388 fried fried 25 25 fritters friners 394,478-9 394,478-9 la grecque 459 dàla 459 and and hard-boiled eggs 459 459 m6daillons médaillonsdàlala niqoise 25,25p 25,25p dàlala normande normande 459 459

INDEX Norwegian Norwegian 459,525 459,525 in oil 459 omelette 351-2 351-2 pannequets pannequets 480,664 480, 664 Portuguese Portuguese fillets fillets 25 preparation preparation 24p 24p preserved 25 pur6e purée 745 rolled; with hardboiled eggs eggs 25 sai ad 459 salad dressing 787 salad dressing salpicon 800 sauce sauce 817,823 8I7,823 45940 scrolls scrolls 459-60 sil6sienne 24 àd la silésienne soufl6 fritters friuers 479 soufflé soused 25-6 straw (allumettes) 466, 469,902 469,902 tart with pissalet 470 toast toast 25 anchoyade anchoyade 26,470 àd la nigoise niçoise 26 ancienne, àill' l' 26,410, 410p andalouse, àd"l' andalouse, l' 26 andouille 26,26p 26,26p andouille andouillettes 26 àd la lyonnaise 26 Andropogon 26 anecdotes 26-8 an6thole 28 anéthole ange] cake 178 angelcake angelfish angel fish 28 angelica angelica 28,28p 28,28p candied 29 hippocras 123 hippocras liqueur 28-9, 555 liqueur 28-9,555 Niort, àd la sybarite 29 angels on horseback horseback 29 angels anglaise anglaise 29 anglaise, àill' l' 29,410 29,410 angler(anglerfish) angler (anglerfish) 29 I'anglaise 29 àd l'anglaise boiled with various sauces 29 fillets braised in white wine 29 wine fied 29 fried matelot 29 matelot pi,rtb 29 pâté Anglet 29 Angoul6me 30 Angoulême 30 Angoumois 30 Angoumois map 30p gastronomic map Angrec Angrec 30 30 animelles animelles 30,633 cream sauce 633 in increamsauce 633 fricassee 633 fricassée fried 633 fried

fried in batter ba tter 633 fried with mushrooms 633 d à la vinaigrette vinaigrette 633 sugar 908 anise: sugar 30-1, 31 3lpP aniseed 30--1, cookies 3l 31 cream Cream of 555 sauce 808 witb 31 sugar flavoured with anisette anisette 31 liqueur 555 Anjou 31-3 3l-3 gastronomic map 3lpp map 31 vineyards 33p, 33p,993p 993p Anna Anna 393 anon 34 anon annona 34,34p annona 34, 34p anthracite anthracite 34 antidote 34 antisepsis 34 antiseptics 34 34. 410 410 anversoise, àiLl' l' 34. aoudzb 34 aoudzé aperitif 34-5 apéritif aphorisms 35-7 Aphtonitus 38 Apicius 38 Aponogetonaceae 38-9 Aponogetonaceae apophoreta 39 apotheca 39 apotheca apothegms 37-8 apothegms appareil appellations d'origine 39 Nicolas 39,39p 39,39p Appert, Nicolas appetit 40 appétit appetite 40 appigret 40 appigret apple-corer 42 40,40p apples apples 4O,40p baked ba ked in pastry or douillon normand 41-1,4Op 4l-r,40p Bavarian cream àd la normande 89 normande femme 41 bonne femme Bourdaloue 41 4l buttered 41 41 au au chambertin 41 charlotte 205 charlotte compote 250 4l Condé Cond6 41 4l la crème crdme au au kirsch kirsch 41 àd la 41 cro0te 41 croûte croffte ài la normande croûte 294 294 douillon normand 40-1,40p Figaro 41 4l Figaro flamb6 au kirsch 41 41 flambé au kirsch Grimaldi 377 flan Grimaldi

freezing 736 freezing

fritters fritters 396 glacé à j'impératrice 4l 41 $acbil'imp6ratrice

gratin6 gratiné 41 green, rougail 781 iced, dà la normande 4954 495-6 jelly jelly 517 marmalade 575-6 mousse mousse dà la Chantilly 4l 41 omelette d omelette à la normande 4l-2,357 41-2,357 pancakes 41 pastejelly paste jelly 519 pectin 42 pie àd I'anglaise l'anglaise 695 pudding, pudding, English English 741 with rice 42 with rice and meringue meringue 42 ring: Brillat-Savarin 42 àd la normande 42 rissoles 42 42,823 sauce 42, sauce 823 freezing 736 736 freezing 42,866 souffi6 42, soufflé 866 Russian 866 Russian 9lGl7,9I6p tart 916-17, 916p I'allemande 917 àd l'allemande àd l'alsacienne 917 of Demoiselles of Demoiselles Tatin 917 with lattice-work 917 Messina 917 Messina tartlets 919 tartlets 946,946p turnover 946, 946p apricoting 45 apricots 42,42p apricots àd I'ancienne l'ancienne 43 attereaux Pompadour atlereaux 61 barquettes 85-6 barquettes I'ancienne 86 àd l'ancienne biscuits biscui ts 125 bombe 43 bouch6es 43 bouchées Bourdaloue 43 candied or crystallised 43 brandy 43,44 43,M in brandy caramel, in brandy brandy 43 charlotte 205 charlotte Colbert 43 Colbert comfits 43 brandy 43 in brandy compote 260 434,44p Cond6 434, Condé 44p 494 coupe 494 coupe 291J croquettes 29 croquettes cro0te 44 44 croûte 1009 1009

diable 44 flambE flambé in kirsch kirsch 44

ri à la

freezing 737 freezing

fritters fritters 396 492 ice 492 ice d à I'impdratrice l'impératrice

jam jam 516

44,44p 44, 44p

omelette omelette ià la

C6lestine 355 Célestine 355

liqueur 555 marmalade 576 mousse mousse 598 omelette 45p oreillons 44 pannequets pannequets 664 pastejelly paste jelly 519 preserved: preserved : aau u naturel na turel 45 in syrup 45 with rice 45 with rice and meringue 45 sauce 827 sauce souffi6 soufflé 866 stones,liqueur stones; liqueur 556 tart 917 d à I'allemande l'allemande 917 àd I'alsacienne l'alsacienne 917 tartlets 19 tart/ets 9919 93I-2 tourte 931-2 45,45p apron (fish) 45, 45p Arabs: cuisine or 'tent' Arabs: cookery 10 cookery gastronomical customs l0 10 arapede 45 arbolade 45 Arbutus berry Arbutus berry 45 arca 45 arca Arcachon 45 Arcachon arcanette 45 arcanette Archestratus 45-6 M archiduc, àill' l' 46 archil 46 archil ardennaise, àdl' l' 46 ardoise 46 ardoise Arenga 46 Argenteuil 46 Argenteuil argus pheasant 46 Aridge 46 Ariège ari6geoise, àlltf ariégeoise, l' 46 arlequin 46 arlequin Arles 46 Arles arl6sienne, àdl' arlésienne, l' 46 armadillo 46 Armagnac 46 46 Armoricaine 46 armoricaine, àd,l' l' 47 biscuits 125 arny biscuits arcma 47 aroma plants 47 aromatic plants

INDEX INDEX aromatics 47 47 aromatics arpenteur, see plover Jee plover arpenteur, Arquebuse 47 47 Arquebuse (Arracacra) 47 Arracacha (Arracacia) 47 Arracacha Artack 47 47 Arrack arrowroot 47 47 arrowroot liaison 47 47 liaison porridge 47-8 47-8 porridge with 922 thickening with 922 thickening arsenic 48 48 arsenic Artagnan, àd la la d' d' 48 48 Artagnan, artichokes 48, 48, 48p, 48p, 460, 460, artichokes 460p 460p barigoule 48 48 barigoule Baron-Brisse 460 460 Baron-Brisse boiled, whole whole 48 48 boiled, boiled with with va various boiled rio us sauces 48 48 sauces (arge); stuffed braised (large); stuffed braised augras 48 au gras 48 stuffed au au maigre maigre 49 49 stuffed (small) 49 braised (smalt) 49 braised Clamart 49 49 Clamart Crbcy 49 49 Crécy diable 49 49 àd la la diable dried 49 49 dried fritters 49,479 49,479 fritters garnishedhearts 460 garnished hearts 460 grecque 459p, 459p,460 àd la la grecque 460 hearts 50,50p hearts 50, 50p 50 àd I'allemande l'allemande 50 50 àd la la b6chamel béchamel 50 cooked in 50 cooked in butter butter 50 in 50 in court-bouillon court-bouillon 50 crdme 50 50 ài la la crème filled as garnish 50 filled as garnish 50 finesherbes fines herbes 50 50 fried fried in in butter butter 50 50 garnished garnished 50 50 460 d à la la grecque grecque 460 dà la la hollandaise hollandaise 50 50 Mornay Mornay 50 50 pickled pickled 50-l 50-1 stuffed stuffed dà la la c6venole cévenole 5l 51 stuffed stuffed ià la la chalonnaise chalonnaise 5l 51 stuffed stuffed dà la la duxelles duxelles 5l 51 stuffed stuffed dà la la florentine florentine 5l 51 stuffed stuffed dà la la lyonnaise lyonnaise 5l 51 stuffed stuffed pi6montaise piémontaise 5l 51 stuffed stuffed Soubise Soubise 51 51 dà la la tartare tartare 460 460 dà la la lyonnaise lyonnaise 49 49 dà la la m6nagdre ménagère 49 49 mirepoix mirepoix 49 49 omelette omelette 352 352

Monselet 353 353 Monselet viveur 355 355 viveur pickled 49 49 pickled grecque 49 la grecque 49 àd la poivrade 460 la poivrade 460 àd la pur6e 746 746 purée forgarnish 49-50 for garnish 49-50 soubis6e, for sou bisée, for garnishes 50 50 garnishes quarters 51,460 51,460 quarters butter 51 in butter 5l in auxfinesherbes 5l aux fines herbes 51 fried in in batter batter 51 5l grecque 51 la grecque 5l àd la I'italienne 51 51 àd l'italienne aujus 51 5l aujus la lyonnaise lyonnaise 51 5l àd la la moelle moelle 51 5l àd la portugaise 51 la portugaise 51 àd la salpicon sai picon 800 with cream cream 800 with soup, cream cream of of 873-4 8734 soup, velout6 878 velouté stalks 50 stalks vinaigrette 460 la vinaigrette ài la artichokes, winter, winter, see artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes Jerusalem Artois, àri la d' d' 393 Artois, Artois and Boulonnais Artois 5t-2 51-2 gastronomic map gastronomic map 52p Arum Arum maculatum maculatum 52 asafoetida 52-3 52-3 asafoetida asbestos 53 53 Ascalaphus Ascalaphus 53 53 Ash 53 Ash (tree) (tree) 53 ashdrink 53 ashdrink 53 ashes ashes 53 53 asparagus asparagus 53,53p 53, 53p Argenteuil Argenteuil fondants 477 477 Argenteuil Argenteuil tartlets 487 487 with with cold sauces sauces 55 55 d à la la flamande flamande 54 54 d à la la Fontanelle Fontanelle 54 54 freezing 735 fried fried in in batter batter 54 54 with with fried fried bread bread 55 55 au gr:atin gratin 54,54p gf,een: green: salpicon sai picon 800 800 heaped heaped in in aa croustade croustade dà la la Cardme Carème 54,54p 54, 54p with with hot hot sauces sauces 55 55 with with melted melted butter butter 55 55 dà la la milanaise milanaise 54 54 dà la la Mornay Mornay 54 54 with with noisette noisette butter butter 54 54 omelette omelette 352 352 Argenteuil Argenteuil 352 352 Princess Princess 354 354 dà la la polonaise polonaise 54 54

preserving 53-4 53-4 preserving green tips tips 54 54 green pur6e 55,746-7 55,746-7 purée (white) 55 salad (white) 55 salad (green) soup: cream cream of of (green) soup: 874 874 (white), cream of of (white), cream called Argenteuil Argenteuil called 874 874 velout6 878 878 velouté tips in in butter butter 55 55 tips with cream tips with cream 54 54 tips garnishes 54 tips for garnishes 54 tips green 55 tips, green tips, tips, royale 418 418 tips, Asperula 55 Asperula jelly : clarification aspic jelly' clarification aspic 56 56 aspic moulds moulds 56p 56p aspics 55-6,55p aspics chaud-froid of chicken chaud-froid 206-7 206-7 chicken 57p, 57p,58,58p, 58, 58p, 222 crayfish 58 crottons 56 croûtons fish 56 fish gras 56 foie gras freshwater crayfish freshwater tails 56 frogs' legs àd I'ancienne l'ancienne 58 game game 58 lobster 56p,58,562 lobster 56p, 58, 562 in moulds moulds 56 pheasant pheasant dà I'ancienne l'ancienne 689 poultry poultry 58 shrimps 58 sole sole 56p spiny lobster 58 spiny assiettes: anglaise 58, 58p,460 58p,460 garnies garnies 58 volantes 58 58 Assyrians: banquets 76-7 76-7 Assyrians: bpnquets Asti Asti 58 58 Astragal Astragal 58-9,58p 58-9,58p astringent as tringent 59 59 astroderme 59 59 Athenaeus Athenaeus 59 59 Ath6nienne 59 Athénienne dà l'l' 59 ath6rine athérine 59,59p,843 59, 59p, 843 Atriplex Atriplex 59 59 attelet attelet 59,59p 59,59p attereaux attereaux 60,470 brains: brains: dà l'ancienne l'ancienne 470 470 dà I'italienne l'italienne 470 dà la la mirepoix mirepoix 470 Villeroi Villeroi 60 60 calf's calf's sweetbreads sweetbreads

l0l0 1010

Villeroi 60 60 Villeroi la chalonaise chalonaise 60 60 ài la chicken livers: livers: àd la la chicken duxelles 470 470 duxelles la mirepoix mirepoix 60 60 àd la cocks' combs combs àd cocks' I'ancienne 470 470 l'ancienne la duchesse duchesse 60 60 àd la 470 àdl'ilcarlate l'écarlate 470 l'6cossaise 60 60 àd l'écossaise sweetbreads lambs' sweetbreads Villeroi 60, 60,60p Villeroi 60p lobster 470 lobs ter 470 maraichdre 60 60 àd la maraîchère 60 àd la normande 60 palate 60-1 6G-l ox palate 470 oysters 470 oysters 61 Monselet 61 (d la royale, Parmesan (à royale, princesse) 60,470 àd la princesse) pi6montaise 60 àd la piémontaise 6l pineapple 61 Pompadour 61 6l Saint-Hubert 60 àii la Saint-Hubert sweetbreads 470 vegetables 470 Victoria 61 6l Victoria àri la Villeroi 470 Aubenas 61 6l aubergines 61, 61,6lp aubergines 61p caponata 183 caponata àd la crdme créme 61 fried 61 6l fried fritters 394 fritters au gratin 61 6l àdlacatalane la catalane 61 d à I'italienne l'italienne 6l 61 d à la languedocienne languedocienne 6l 61 d à la portugaise 63 d à la reine 63 63 d à la toulousaine toulousaine 63 d à la turque 63 63 gratin gratin of of tomatoes tomatoes and 928 in gravy 63 63 dà la la grecque 63 63 grilled 63 Imam lmam Baaldi 62p,63 62p, 63 .omelette 352 352 omelette Mistral Mistral 353 353 pur6e purée 63,747 63,747 rougail rougail 781 781 salad 63 63 salpicon, salpicon, in in cream cream 800 800 saut6ed sautéed 63 63 souffi6 soufflé 63 63 rià la la hongroise hongroise 63 63 aupannesan au parmesan 63 63 Aude Aude 63 63 Audiger Audiger 63 63

INDEX INDEX Augsburgerwiirste Augsburgerwürste 830 830 auk auk 63-4 63-4 Aunis Aunisand and Saintonge Saintonge 64 64 gastronomic .. r.nr.rn'" maP map 30P 30p

auriol

64 aurochs aurochs 64 64 Aurore Aurore 393 393 aurore, aurore, à l' 64 64

il'

Austria: Austria: cookery 503 503 autoclave autoclave 64-5,64p 64--5, 64p auto-intoxication, auto-intoxication, digestive digestive 65 65 autrichienne, autrichienne, dà l'l' 65 65 Auvergnat Auvergnat 66 66 Auvergne Auvergne 65-6,65p 65-6, gastronomic gastronomie map map 60P 60p Avice 66 66 aviner aviner 66 66 66,66p avocadopear avocado 66, avocet 66,66p 66p axioms axÎoms 35-7 Ay 66-7 66-7 Ayapana 67 Ayapana 67,67p azarole 67, azarole azi(azy) (azy) 67 azÎ azymous 67

baked baked Alaska Alaska 356p,357 357 bakers'ovens bakers' ovens 72p bakery 70-2 70-2 balachan ua."v",," 72 72 Balaine Balaine(Baleine) (Baleine) 72 72 balanus balanus 72 72 balaou balaou 73 73 Balkan Balkan cookery 504 504 ballottines ballottines 73 73 chicken 222 222 with dark sauce, sauce, with dark served served with with various various garnishes garnishes 73 73 glazed 74 74 $azed injelly injelly 74 74 with sauce 73-4 73-4 with light light sauce small small 74 74 ", .. ~,"' ..,~ 322 322 duckling

eel cel 330 330 dà I'ancienne l'ancienne 330 330 ià lala bourguignonne bourguignonne 330-l 330-1 dà la la gauloise gauloise 331 331 goose goose 430 430 guinea-fowl guinea-fowl 74 74 hare hare M7 447 d à la p6rigourdine npr'or.''''·1'1 447

lamb: lamb: ài la la boulangdre 73 73 d la bourgeoise 73 braised d la bonne

B baba 68-9,68p baba 68p for 319 319 batter for batter 69 babiroussa biroussa 69 ba Bacchanalia 69 69 Bacchanalia Bacchante 69 69 Bacchante Bacchus69, 69,69p Bacchus 69p 69 bacon 69 bacon omelette 352 352 omelette 353 la forestière forestidre 353 àd la rinds 720 720 rinds 787 fatdressing dressing787 bacon fat bacon 69p, 69-70, 69p, anise 69-70, Badiananise Badian 898 898 Bagration 70,393 bain-de-pied 70

bain-marie 70,70p 70 baiser70 baiser 70 bajet70

femme 73 various with various braised, with braised, garnishes 73 73 garnishes various with various cold, with cold, garnishes 73 73 garnishes injelly 73,73p in jelly 73, 73 mutton 73 mutton jellied 666 partridge, jel1ied 666 partridge, various with various with garnishes 666 666 pheasant injelly in jelly 689 689 pheasant pigeon 74 74 pigeon pork; braised, with braised, with pork; 73 various garnishes 73 various injelly 73 73 injelly poultry 74 74 poultry 323 duckling 323 Rouen duckling Rouen 74 turkey 74 turkey 943 toulousaine 943 àd lala toulousaine veal 73 73 veaI 74 balm 74 balm bamoch bamoch 74 bambocher 74 bambocher 74 bamboo74 bamboo 74 mushroom 74 bamboo mushroom bamboo 74-5,75p bananas74--5, bananas 75 baked 75 baked 75 Beauharnais75 Beauharnais 75 Bourdaloue 75 Bourdaloue

ininbutter butter 75 75 compote compote 260 260 Cond6 Condé 75 dà la la cr6ole créole 75 75 crofites: croûtes: iàla la Bauvilliers Bauvilliers 75 75 dà la maltaise 75 75 la maltaise flan (tan) dà lalacrdme crème 75 75 flan (tart) flamb6 flambé 75 75 fried fried 75,75p 75,75p fritters fritters 76,396 76, 396 ice ice 492 492 ripening ripening 74p souffi6 soufflé 76 76 Bandol Bandol 76 76 bangi bangi 76 76 banilles banilles 76 76 banquets banquets 76-83 76-83 410 banquidre, rià la la 83, 83,410 83 bantam bantam 83 banvin banvÎn 83 83 Banyuls Banyuls 83 83 baobab baobab 83,83p S3, baraquilles baraquilles 83 84 Barashek Barasbek iz iz Masla Masla 84 Barbados Barbados Cream Cream 84 84 84 Barbarea Barbarea 84 84 barbarin barbarin 84 84 barbarine barbarine 84 84,84p barbel barbet 84, various boiled, with various 84 sauces 84 sauces 84 i la bourguignonne 84 àla 84 fried 84 fried grilled 84 84 84 d la la meu meunidre nière 84 des la mode mode des ài la 84 mariniers 84 mariniers roast 84 84 roast 84 barberry "'""-"'",r ..,, 84 84 candied 84 dried candied dried to 84 84 bard, to bard, fat 84--5 84-5 barding fat 85 barigoule 85 barigoule, d la 85

barley 85 beer 1l18 beer J8

85 broth 85 broth with 85 85 consomm6 with consommé 122 cordial 122 cordial of 874 874 cream of soup, cream soup, I22 water 122 water 85 sugar 85 barleysugar barley 85,85p barnacle 85, barnacle 85p 3,3p acorn3,3p acorn goose 85 85 barnacle goose barnacle 85 baron baron 85 barquettes 85,460 d I'am6ricaine 471 471 withanchovies anchovies 471 with 85-6 apricot apricot 85-6

l0l I 1011

d I'ancienne 86 à l'ancienne 86 Bagpation Bagration 460 460 Beauharnais Beauharnais 460 460

471 dlabouquetidre à la 471

dlacancalaise à la cancalaise 460 460 caviare caviare 463 463 chestnut chestnut 2I8,471 218,471 cocks'combs cocks' combs 246 246 garnished 470-l 470-1

making making 86p 86p Marivaux Marivaux 460 460

mushroom mushroom 602 602 with with mussels mussels 471 471 d la normande 46Gl à la normande 460-1 oysters oysters 471,659 471, 659 d I'am6ricaine 660 à l'américaine 660 d la Nantua 660-l à la Nantua 660-1 d la normande 661 à la normande 661 savoury savoury 85p with with shrimps shrimps 471 471 853 sole sole 853 vegetables vegetables dà la la bouquetidre n.r."n"",n",rp 471 471 barrel barrel 86 86 basella basel\a 86 basil basil 86,86p 86, 86p 86 basquaise, basquaise, àd la la 86 87,87p bass bass 87,87p boiled, boiled, with with various various

87 sauces 87 sauces various with various braised, with garnishes and garnishes sauces and sauces

87 87 with various various cold, with cold, 87 sauces sauces 87 87 I'indienne 87 curried àd l'indienne curried Dugl6r6 87 87 87 fillets 87 fillets 87 fried fried 87 gratin 87 87 au gratÎn au grilled, various with grilled, with various 87 sauces 87 sauces livornaise 87 87 la lîvornaise àd la meunidre 88 88 la meunière àd la poached, with various poached, with various 87 sauces 87 sauces 88 i la portugaise 88 d la provengale 88 88 with stuffed braised, with garnishes 88 various garnishes various 88 88 bat 88 bat 88 ba-ta-clan 88 ba-ta-clan 88 bateaux bateaux 88 636 bathchaps 636 bath (bitons) 88 bitonnets bâtonnets (bâtons) 88 88 almond 88 almond 88 chocolate 88 chocolate 88 cumin88 cumin 88 hazelnut88 hazelnut 88 Jacob's88 lacob's 88 royal88 royal

INDEX

INDEX

with vanilla icing 88 with vanilla icing 88 batters: baba 319 batters: baba 319 biscuits: fine 320 biscuits: fine 320 Italian 320 ltalian 320 ordinary 320 320 Reims 320 Reims 320 Swiss 320 SwÎss 320 whisked over heat whisked over heat 320 320 for blini 128 for blini 128 crOpe (sweet) 319 crêpe (sweet) 319 cussy 319 cussy 319 for frying 88-9 for frying 88-9 galette 319 319 Genoese 319 319 gougdre 319 gougère 319 for little salted galettes for liule salted galettes 319 319 manqu6 319-20 319-20 small tea biscuits 319 tea biscui Is 319 for souffi6 fritters 319 for soufflé fritters 319 spongecake: fine 320 sponge cake: fine 320 Italian 320 Italian 320 ordinary 320 ordinary 320 Reims 320 Reims 320 Swiss 320 Swiss 320 whisked over heat whisked over heat 320 320 spongefingers 320 for Vienna fritters 319 Bavarian cream Bavarian cream (Bavarois) 89, 89p 89,89p d la c6venole 89 à la cévenole 89 d la cr6ole 89 à la créole 89 fruit 90p,91 fruit 90p,91 mixture for 594 mixture for 594 Mocha coffee 9l Mocha coffee 91 d la normande 89 à la normande 89 au parfait amour 89 amour 89 with pistachio nuts 89 pistachio nuts 89 raspberry 761 raspberry 761 auxroses 91 aux roses 91 strawberry 92 strawberry 92 striped 91,9Ip striped 91, 9Jp striped chocolate and striped chocolate and vanilla 9l vanilla 91 vanilla 91 vanilla 91 Bavarian cream mould Bavarian cream mould '-',",l.IV,",.",",

89p

bavaroise 9l bavaroise 9 J auxchoux 9l aux choux 91 bay 91 bay 91 Bayonne 9l-2 Bayonne 91-2 beans 92,92p beans 92,92p freezing 735 freezing 735 jelly 519 jelly 519 mixed 93 mixed 93 soup, cream of 874 soup, cream of 874 pur6e of 875 of 875 beans, broad 92 beans, broad 92 d I'anglaise 92 à 92

butter92 92 ininbutter 92 inincream cream 92 d la croque-au-sel92 92 àla frangaise 92 92 ài lalafrançaise pur6e92,747 92,747 with savory 92 with savory 92 beans, field field 92 92 beans, beans, flageolet 92 92 beans,

with parsley 94 potage d'Artois 879

pwile 747

beans,French French 92-3,464 92-3,464 beans, I'anglaise 93 93 àdl'anglaise bonne femme femme 93 93 àd lala bonne in brown brown butter butter 93 93 in in butter butter ài lala maître maitre in 93 d'h6tel 93 d'hôtel incream 93 cream 93 in dried 93 93 dried la française frangaise 93 93 àd la gratin 93 au gratin 93 au gravy 93 in gravy 93 in la lyonnaise 93 93 àd la d la normande 93 à la normande 93 pur6e 93, 93,747 747 salad 93, 93,93p salad salpicon 80 801 salpicon la d crdme 8011 à la crème 80 saut6ed àd la provengale la provençale sautéed 93 93 in tomate tomato sauce sauce 93 93 in beans, haricot 94p beans, haricot 94p cassoulet 193, 193,193p cassoulet 193p purbe 747 purée 747 beans, beans, Lima Lima 93 93 beans, red beans, red haricot: haricot: dried dried 93 93 fresh fresh 93 93 in in red red wine wine dà la la bourguignonne Irgtugnlonl:1e 94 94 soup, soup, puree of, of, called calJed dà la la Cond6 Condé 875 875 beans, beans, tonka tonka 94 94 beans, beans, white white haricot: haricot: cassoulet cassoület de de Castelnaudary Cas telnaudary 1934 193-4 dried dried 95 95 dà I'am6ricaine l'américaine 95 95 dà I'anglaise 95 95 dà la la berrichonne berrichonne 95 95 dà la la charcutidre charcutière 95 95 au au gratin 95 95 in in tomato tomato sauce sauce 95 95 fresh fresh 94 94 dàlalabretonne bretonne 94 94 ininbutter butter 94 94 en encassoulet cassoulet 94 94 incream in cream 94 94 croustades croustadesdàlala bretonne bretonne 475 475 estouffat estouffatdàI'occitane J'occitane 94 94 dàlalalyonnaise lyonnaise 94 94

pur6e 94-5 salad95 95 salad pur6e of soup, of sou p, purée (Soissonnaise) 875 875 (Soissonnaise) bear 95 95 bear ham 95 95 ham paw 95 95 B6arn 95-6,96p 95-6,96p gastronomic map map 96p 96p gasHonOITIIC beast 97 97 beast b6atilles 97 béa tilles 97 rago0t 97 97 Beauharnais, àd la la 97,410 97,410 Beauharnais, Beaujolais 97 97 ---'-J-'--Beaumont 97 97 Beaumont Beaune 97 97 Beaune Beauvilliers, Antoine Antoine Beauvilliers, 97-8 97-8 Beauvilliers (cake) (cake) 98 98 Beauvilliers Beauvilliers (garnish) (garnish) 98, 98, Beauvilliers 4tl 411 beaver 98 98 beaver b6casseau 98 98 bécasseau B6chameil, Louis Louis de de 98 98 He'Chl''\If'r.n spiny lobster, lobster, lobster orother other lobsteror shellfish shellfish 350 350 with with shrimps shrimps 350 350 trufles with wÎth truffies 350 350 S6vign6 350 350 shirred 338,842 338,842 with 351 with shrimps shrimps 351 snow snow 351,351p 351,351p ià lala soubise soubise 351 351 spun spun 418 418 Stanley 351 351

stuffed 464 stuffing stuffing dà la la moscovite moscovite 464 464

472 canapbs 472

350 with cdpes 350 liver with chicken liver 350 350 Clamart 350 Clamart 350 with crayfish crayfish 350 with 350 'l'6chelle' 350 'J'échelle' 350 I'espagnole 350 àdl'espagnole 350 àdlaforestidre la forestière 350 350 Georgette 350 orbacon bacon with hamor 350 350 Massenet350 Massenet 350 withmushrooms mushrooms 350 with 350 Nantua350 àdlalaNantua 350 normande 350 àdtalanormande panetidre350 350 panetière 350 Parmentier 350 Parmentier p6rigourdine àdlalapérigourdine 350 350 potatoes350 350 withpotatoes with princess350 350 princess

tarragon tarragon 351 351 dà la la tripe tripe 351 351 Verdier Verdier 351 35J Victoria Victoria 351 35! d à la la Villeroi Villeroi 351 351 yolk: yolk: stuffing 389 389 d à la la zingara 3511 eggs, plovers'or lapwings'464 357 reptiles' 357 eggs, reptiles' eggs, 357 turtles' 357 eggs, turtles' eggs, 357,358P egg-timer 357, egg-tÎmer 358p 357 Eglantine 357 Eglantine 76 banquets 76 Egypt: banquets Egypt: 76,357-8 cooking 76, coolàng 357-8 358 elderberry : gourilos 358 elderberry. cordial elderblossom: elderblossom: cordial t23 123 123 cordial 123 lime cordial and lime and 358-9 electricity 358-9 359 elephant 359 950 feet 950 elephant's feet 359 elixir 359 359 cola 359 cola 359 ofGarus ofGarus 359 359 Chartreuse 359 Grande Chanreuse Grande 359,596 elk elk 359,596 359 embonpoint 359 359 6mincer émincer 359 359 6minc6s 359 émincés bordelaise with beef: beef: with bordelaise 359 sauce359 sauce 359 chasseur 359 chasseur 359 I'italienne359 àdl'italienne 359 lyonnaise d la à la lyonnaise 359 359 mushrooms 359 withmushrooms with piquante sauce with with piquante sauce 359 359 sauce with with poivradesauce 359 359

t027 1027

with Robert sauce with Robert sauce 359 359 with tomato sauce with tomato sauce 359

359

or lamb 359 mutton mutton or lamb 359 pork 359 pork 359 359 poultry poultry 359 359 roebuck roebuck 359 359 veal veal 359 359 emulsion emulsion 359 en-cas 359-60 en-cas 359-60 360, 360P endive endive 360, 360p with bechamel sauce with béchamel sauce 360 360 braised au gras 360 braîsed au gras 360 360 buttered buttered 360 cream 360 with with cream 360 d la flamande 360 à la flamande 360 gourilos, see gourilos gourilos, see gourilos 360 augratin au gratin 360 360 aujus aujus 360 360 loaf loaf 360 au maigre 360 au maigre 360 pur6e 360 360 souffi6 360 soufflé 360 with Parmesan 360 with Pannesan 360 cream of 874 soup: soup: cream of 874 velout6 879 velouté 879 subrics 360 subrics 360 505 England: cookery 505 entoloma 360 360 entomophogous 360 entomophogous entr6es 361 361 entrées mixed 361 mixed 361 entremets 361 entremets 361 6pergne 361 épergne 361 6pigramme 361 épigramme 361 epilepsy 361 epilepsy 361 Epiphany 362,369 362,369 Equerry 932 932 Ermitage 362 362 362 ermite 362 ermite 362 erythrin 362 erythrin escalope 362 362 850P escargotiere 850p escarole 362 362 Escoffier, Auguste 362, Escoffier, Auguste 362, 362p 362p Esquire Tranchant 363 Esquire Tranchant 363 essai (essay) 363 essai (essay) 363 essence 363 essence 363 almond, bitter 363 almond, bitter 363 anchovy 363 363 chervil 363 chervil 363 coffee 363 coffee 363 fish 363 fish 363 game 363 game 363 garlic 363 garlîc 363 lemon 551 lemon 551 mocha 594 mocha 594 mushroom 363 mushroom 363

INDEX INDEX onion363 363 onion parsley363 363 parsley shallot363 363 shallot tarragon363 363 tarragon tomato363-4 3634 tomato truffie364 364 truffie estaminet364 364 estaminet estouffade364 364 estouffade (6tuv6)364 estoufte(étuvé) 364 estouffée 6tuver 364 364 étuver euphorism 364 364 euphorism ewe 364 364 ewe ewer 364 364 ewer exocoetus364 364 exocoetus extracts 364 364 extracts chicken 364 364 chicken game 364 364 game meat 364 364 meat

F Faby (Fabri), (Fabri), Pdre Père 393-4 393-4 fai'ence faïence 365,366p 365, 366p faisandage faisandage 365 365 falcon falcon 365 365 fallow-deer fallow~deer 365,367 365, 367 roast roast haunch haunch dà I'anglaise 367 367 fanchette fanchette (fanchonnette) (fanchonnette) 367 367 fanes fanes 367 367 fantaisie fantaisie 367 367 far far 367 367 farci farci 367 367 farinaceous farinaceous 367 367 fainada farinada 367 367 Faro Faro 367 367 Far FarPoitevin Poitevin 367 367 fas6ole faséole 367 367 fat fat 367 367 fats fats l1-12 11-12 fattening fattening 368 368 faubonne faubonnc 368 368 fauves fauves 368 368 favorite, dla 413 favorite,àla 413 Favre, Favre,Joseph 368 368 fawn fawn 368 368

fedelini368 368 fedelini Fendant368 368 Fendant fennel368, 368,368p fenne1 368p withbone-marrow bone-marrow 368 wÎth 368 braisedininmeat meatstock stock braÎsed 368 368 368 cream 368 inincream fondue385 385 fondue gratin368 augratÎn 368 au gravy368 368 iningravy grecque 368 368 àdla la grecque liqueur 556 556 liqueur roots464 464 roots grecque464 464 àdlalagrecque sauce 819 819 sauce Fennel-water 368 368 Fennel-water fenugreek 368 368 fenugreek f6ra 368-9, 368-9,368p féra 368p la meunière meunidre 369 369 àd \a ferchuse 369 369 ferchuse ferment 369 369 ferment fermentation 369 369 fermentation fermidre, àd,la 369.416 la 369,416 festive cookery 369-73 369-73 festivecookery feuillantine 373 373 feuillantine feuilleton 373 373 feuilleton veal: àd l'ancienne I'ancienne 373 veal: 373 in jelly, cold cold 373 373 injelly, p6rigourdine àd la périgourdine 373 373 feuillette 373 feuillette fiatole 373-4 3734 fiatole fieldfare 373 fieldfare field-poppy oil 374 374 field-poppy: oil figs I119, 19,374,374p 374, 374p compote compote 260 Corsican Corsican anchoyade anchoyade 374 dfied dried 374 374 fresh fresh 464 464 fritters fritters 374.396 374,396 leg wild pork leg of ofwild pork with with 374 374 marmalade marmalade 576 576 pork stew stew with with 374 374 tart tart 917 917 wine winc 124,374 J 24, 374 figuette 124,374 124,374 filbert, seehazelnut see hazelnut fillet fillet 374 374 financidre, OmmCllere dla à la 375,413 375,413 finger-bowl: finger-bowl: water waterfor for I 1 finte finte 375 375 firecrest 375 firedog 375

fish 375-6. See 5:eeolsocod a/sr> cod etc. etc.

aspic 56 56 bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse,Breton Breton 277 277 bourride bourride l4l 14l 1028

chaudrée chaudr6ededefouras fouras207 207 consommé: consomm6: à dl'amiral I'amiral 870 870 à dlalacancalaise cancalaise871 871 clarified clarified869 869 Commodore Commodore 871 871 Hudson Hudson871 871 simple869 869 cotriadc cotriade 277 277 coulibiac coulibiac277-8 277-8 croquettes474 474 ,",,,,-,Cl U,",,," "" 464 escabdche 464 essence essence 363 363 fillets fillets 374 374 forcemeat forcemeat 388 388 ring ring with with various various garnishes garnishes 134 134 freezing freezing 734 734 fritots frirots 478 478 fritters fritters 395,479 395.479 fumet fumet 401 401 garnishes 409 409 grilled àd I'anglaise 29 29 hash hash 450 450 jelly: stock jelly: 8 stock for for 5! 518 stock stock for, with with rcd red wine wine 518 518 loaves loaves 558-9 matelote 580 àd la bourguignonne 580 s80 à la mariniere marinière 580 580 d à la normande 580 580 d mayonnaise 580 mousse 376 mousseline forcemeat forcemcat mousseline 388 388 pdtes, small 481

pavf

676

pies 692,695

pirozhki

703

pochouse pochouse 708 708 de Verdun-sur-leVerdun-sur-lede Doubs 708 708 Doubs potage Bagration Bagration 880 880 745-6 pur6es 745-6 salpicon 801 801 salpicon sautéof of 831 831 saut6 shells 485 485 scallop shells 864 soufl6 864 soupwith withvermicelli vermicellidà soup marseillaise 882 882 lalamarseillaise soupaigo-saou aïgo-saou 881 881 soup stock 899 899 stock withred redwine wine 899 899 with turnovers:dàlalaCussy Cussy turnovers: 946 946 lyonnaise946 946 dàlalalyonnaise Nantua 946 946 dàlalaNantua ukha888 888 ukha vishiski969 969 vishiski

à dlalaWalewska Walewska973 973

Waterzootje976-7 976-7

nsh fishkettle kettle 376

fissurclle 376p fissurelle376, 376,376p fistulane fistulane 376 376 Fistulina Fistulina hepatica hepatica376, 376, 376p 376p flamande, la 377, 413, flamande,à itla 377,413, 413p 413p flamiche flamiche 377 377 flamingo flamingo377 377 flamique377 377 flamri377 377 flamusse flamusse 377 377 Flanders: Flanders: culinary culinary "1.n.,"'U1H"~ù specialities379 379 flangnarde 379 379 flans flans 377 377 77 apple Grimaldi Grimaldi 3377 banana àd la la crème crdme 75 75 àd la 77 la bordelaise bordelaise 3377 àd la la bourguignonne bourguignonne 377-8 377-8 Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin 378 378 carrot carrot àd la la flamande flamande 378 378 cases cases baked baked blind blind 916 916 cheese cheese 378 378 Juliette Juliette Récamier R6camier 378 378 cherry cherry 216 216 Danish 217 Danish 217 with rice rice meringue with 217 217 chicken liver liver Chavette Chavette chicken 378 378 with cheese cheese crayfish:: with 284 284 la Nantua Nantua 378 378 dà la la financidre financière 378 378 dà la ftamusse 377 377 flamusse flangnarde 379 379 flangnarde la florentine florentine 378 378 dà la latticed 549,549p 549,549p latticed teek, with with cheese cheese 378 378 leek, mirabelle plum plum 592 592 mirabelle 679,679p peach 679,679p pear, dàlalacrdme crème 682p 682p pear, cases 377, preparing cases 377p 377p raspberry cream 378 378 raspberrycream reÎne 378 378 riàlalareine rice /775 rtce /)

with apricots 775 with meringue 775

378 dla Sagan 378 378 seafood 378 shellfish 179 ~ 79 shellfish soledàlalanormande normande 379 379 sole tangerine918-19 918-19 tangerine flavour919 919 flavour

INDEX INDEX flavouring 379 379

pilaf 699 699

I,.f(' hpr,c,n'\ 379 379 Fletcherism

potted pottedwith withtruffies truffies 383 383 dàlalafagon façon p6rigourdine périgourdine 383 383 preserved preserved potted, pottcd, in in

fleuron fleuron 379 379

fleursdevin fleurs de vi n 379 379 floating floatingisland îsland 379 379 flognarde flognarde 379 379 florentine, florentine, ila à la 379 379 flounder flounder 379,379p 379, 379p flour flour 380,380p 380, 380p

flouring 380 380 floutes floutes 380 flowers: flowers: three three flowers flowers

cordial cordial 124 124 fluorine fluorine 380 380 fl0te flûte 380 380 flute, flute, to to 380 380 fogosch 380 380 foie gras gras 380-l 380-\ aspic 56 56 en en Bellevue Bellevue 381 381 en en brioche 381 en casserole 381

enchausson en chausson 381 en cocotte 381 croquettes 381 d la P6rigueux 474 d à la reine reine 474 cutlets 381 'eggs'381 'eggs' 38\ Cambac6rds escalopes: esca 10 pes: Cam ba cérès 381 381 chaud-froid 381 en chaud-froid with grapes and with truffies 381-2 381-2 truffies Montrouge 382 382 Montrouge Richelieu 382 382 Richelieu la romaÎne romaine 382 382 àd la 382 with truilles truffies 382 with la financière financidre 382 382 àd la I'ancienne fritters: il.i l'ancienne fritters: 395 395 395 with truille truffie 395 with 381 kromeskies 381 kromeskies loaf 382, 382,559 loaf 559

jellied 38~559.559p 382,559,559p jcll~d 382 medallions 382 medallions mousse 382, 382,597 mousse 597 382 mousselines 382 mousselines la omelette: àd la omelette: 352 bigourdane 352 bigourdane 353 Louis Forest Forest 353 Louis Rossini 354 354 Rossini pancakesàdlala 1-1'''''-r'\l"t1 Solférino 881 velours 881 777 rillauds 777 velours 881 Xavier 881 777 rillettes rillettes 777 Xavier 881 polash 722 720 salt salt 720 722

breast breast713 713 curry 300-1 Bringelle I-/.r.ncr"llp curry 300-1

1Q47

1Q47

potatoes 722-3 723 potatoes 722-3 d I'anglaise à l'anglaise 34,723 723 Anna for 34P Anna 34,723 casserole casserole for 34,723 Annette 7234 Annette 723 bacon34, with with bacon 723-4723 in the oven baked baked in the 724 oven 723 basil with wi th basil 724724 basquaise dla 724 la berrichonne724 d àla àla (n6gresses, 724 black black pommes de pommes 724 Madagascar) Madagascar) 724 724 boiled boiled 724 724 borders 724 borders 724 dlaboulangixe àla 724 butter 724 in in butter 724 cakes cakes 724 T24 chdteat château 724 724 chatouillafi chatouillard ashes in the 724 cooked cooked in the ashes 723 723 724 coPeatx Crainquebille 724 d la Cr6cY (d la VichY) 724

crisps 726 crisps 726 291,291P, croquettes crolquettes 291, 291p, 475,725,725p 725, 725 chevreuse chevreuse dlaflorentine 475 àilalYonna\se la florentine 475 725 àd la 725 nigoise 475 la lyonnaise àwith la niçoise 475 Parmesan with Parmesa n 475,725 cheese 475, 725 la P6rigourdine dcheese à la périgourdine 72s 725 725 croustades croustades 724 curlY crisPs725 curly 724 DauPhine 725 Dauphine for 593 mixture 725 for 593 725, la dauPhinoise dmixture à la dauphinoise 725, 725P 725p Duchess 7254 Duchess mixture 321, duchesse725-6 duchesse mixture 321, s93 593 with fennel 726 with fenne! 726 726 fondantes fondantes fied 726726 friedpont-neuf 726 726 pont-neuf 726 395,726P fritters fritters 395, 404 galettes galettes 404 406 game chiPs game 406(d la gastronome gastronome (à la Cussy) 726 Cussy) 726 726 Georgette ,",pr\,rcr,·U" 726 gnocchi 428 i la dauPhinoise, gratin 428 as garnish 414 gratin d la savoYarde 414

INDEX INDEX

grilled

726_7

grilled 726-7 hashed brown 727 hashed brown jse 727 d la hongro 727 à !aashongroise 727 hors d,oeuvre 467 d'oeuvre 467 as hors i la landaise 727 à laLithuanian landaise 727 soup gg6 Lithuanian souppotato 886 little duchess liulecroustades duchess potata 292,292p croustades loaves 727292, 292p loaves 727 727 Lorette Lorette 727 jse d Ia lyonna 727 à la lvonn:llse macaire 727 727 macaÎre 727 d'h6tel d la maitre 727 à la maître (sticks) d'hôtel 727 matches 727 matches (sticks) withmint 727 727 with mint 727 727 Mont-Dore Mont-Dore mousseline 727 727 mousseline au naturel 727 (nature) au 727,727p naturel (nature) 727,727p nests 622,727 ncsts 622, 623,727_g 727 noisette noisette 623, spoons for727-8 shaping spoons 727p for shaping d la normande 72g àomelette: la normande 728 parmentier omelette: Parmentier 354 354 d la paysanne 354 àd la la paysanne savoyarde354 355 à la savoyarde 355 panada 663 pancakes663 729 pancakes 728 paniers 664 paniers 664 d la parisienne 729. à728p la parisienne 728, 728p Parmentier 72g Parmentier parsley 728 728 728 72g dparsley la paysanne à la paysanne potage: julienne728 potage: Darblay 880 sant6 881 purile 728 ri la crdme 72g à la crème729 728 au gratin quenelles: d 728 I'alsacienne 72g als::lClenne 728 parmesan with with Parmesan cheese 72g 728 ring cheese 135, l35p roast 728 135p roast Saint-Flour 72g Saint-Flour 728 salad 789p salad 789p salpicon 801 salpicon 801 72g d la sarladaise à la sarladaise 728 saut6ed 728 sautéed 728 d la provengale à la provençale 728_9 728-9 i la s_avoyarde 729, g33 à la savoyarde 729,833 soufr6 864 soufflé 864 g64 with cheese cheese g64 864 d lawith hongroise 864 soufr6àla potatoes soufflé 729 (puffed)

soup, pur6e soup, Parmentier Parmentier 877,g77,g77p steamed steamed 729729 in stock 729729 in stock straw 729,902 straw 729,902 stuffed stuffed 483,483,729,729p 729, 729p la cancalaise à lad cancalaise

hash 450-1 freezing 737 hash 450_l freezing interlarding Prunier 770 737 interlardin297 g 297 Prunier 770 liver, see liver puchero 740 liver, see liver puchero 740 58\5gl puddings: almond, mayonnaise puddings: almond. Monselet, scallop shells 741 Monselet, scallop shells Eng!ish English of of 485485 American 741 741 American offal 647647 apple, English741 741 otral apple, 729_30 741 pâté 673673 beefsteakEnglish 740 729-30 pdt6 beefsteak 740 la cantalienne stock 482 and kidney 740 with à lad cantalienne 730730 with stock 4g2 and kidney 740 483493 and oyster 740 à ladlachasseur chasseur 730730 patties and oyster 740 with cheese 730. biscuit à la reine 741 with cheese 730, d la reine 493,4g3p biscuit 730p Brazilian 741 741 730p (wings) 701701 pinions (wings) Brazilian 741 ri la duxelles 730 bread: French 741 princesse, scaHop shells à la duxelles 730 pn^ncesse, scallop shells bread: French 741 fermidre730 730 German 741 ofof485 fermière 485 German 741 d la florentine730 730 and fruit, German pur6es746 à la florentine 746 and fruit, German ii la hongroise 730 741, 742p à la hongroise 730 Ro,i5i6,scallop scallopshells shells 741,742p Maintenon730 730 ofof485 Maintenon with red wine 741 485 with red wine 741 d la m6nagdre730 730 scallop cabinet 741 àla scallopshells shellsofof485 4g5 cabinet 741 pnncesse 730 wÎth iced 495 withsmoked smokedoror capucine, iced 741 dlaprovengale 730 ..... hl~c:tln"f soufflé 495 pickled pickledlongue tongue chestnut souffi6 741 with sausage meat 485-6 chicken à la Richelieu 485_6 chicken d la Richelieu 730 poupelin731 740 731 740 soubise730 730 poupeton731 chocolate 742 soubise poupeton 731 chocolate 742 ri Ia Vichy 730 poussoir 731 à la Vichy 730 chocolate rice 743 731 chocolate Yorkshire style style 730 730 poutine 732 poutine Christmas rice 743 743 Yorkshire 732 Christmas 743 subrics 730,905 praire732 subrics 730,905 Clermont 742 732 Clermont 742 la toulousaine toulousaine 730 730 praline 732 àdla Diplomat 742 732 Diplomat Vitelotte 970 ice Vitelotte 970 cream 493 with fruit742 742 icecream 493 withfruit Voisin 730 742742p 730 VoisÎn pannequets pannequets 664 fruÎt 505p, 742, 664 fruit pot-au-feu 722,97A 505p ,742,742p pavé pav6 676 pot-au-feu 870 740-1 676 game 740-l g70 732p praline 732, 495 àri I'albigeoise 870 732,732p iced 495 g70 b6arnaise 870 praliner 732 àd la la béarnaise praliner lemon, tangerine or 732 Iemon, tangerine or consomm6 prawns: consommé crofite croû te au orange soufflé 742 prawns: Dublin Dublin Bav orange pot pot 871 871 macaronisouffi|742 742 32{}.l 320-1 macaroni 742 g7l ià I'ancienne l'ancienne 87 t marrow 742 Dublin Bay:: soup, soup, Dublin marrow d la languedocienne 742 à la languedocienne velouté 879 mould for velout6 mould for 74lp 870 870 mutton 741 forcemeat 3g9 389 forcemeat mutton 741 Pot de vin 967 Pot de vin 967 Nesselrode 742-3 581 mayonnaise 5gl Nesselrode 742_3 pot6e 730 730 plum 743 rougail 781 781 rougail plum 743 Lorraine presentation Lorraine 730 730 pumpkin 743 presentationbase base 910 910 pumpkin pot-roasting 297,73C_1 presentation 297,730-1 rice 743 743 presentationofofdishes dishes nce 743 d la Matignon 731 à la Matignon 731 English 743 732 732 poule-au-pot g70 English 743 preservation ofoffood poule-au-pot 870 mould 775 food rnould 775 poulette, dla 731 poulette, à la 731 780 732-7 732_7 roly-poly 780 poultry. See also chicken. poultry. See a/sa chieken, press sago 743 press734 734 sago 743 etc. pressurecooker etc. savoury 740-1 pressure cooker64_5. 64-5, savoury 740_l d I'allemande, scallop Saxon 743-4 à l'allemande, scallop 734, 737 64p,734,737 Saxon shells of 485 priltre 737 737 Scotch7434 744 sheHs of 485 Scotch 744 braising semolina 744,838 Pr9g9l Pretzel737-8,738p 737-8, 738p braising296 296 semolina 744,939 cold: prickly prickly pear73g, 738, 738p English 838 cold:fritots fritots47g 478 pear Tigp English 838 croquettes 475 prrncesse, dla 475 tlamiri 377 àJa417,73g 417,738 flamiri 6minc6s 359 377 printanier 359 with stewed fruit printanier417,73g 417, 738 with stewed fruit entrecuisse 361 printaniere, d"la entrecuisse 361 àla417,738 417, 73g 838p fillets suet 744 Procope 770,770p fillets374374 770,770p suet roll, English 744 forcemeat 386 profiteroles sweet 741--4 forcemeat 386 profiteroles 738, 738p 73g,73gp sweet (dessert) 7414 forfor pdt6s and potted sweet potato 744,911 and potled provengale, itla àla417,738 417, 73g sweetpotato preparations 397387 "" .. r'VI",n,'1" 738-40 744744.911 Provence preparations 73840 tapioca 744 freezing 734734 freezing vermicelli 744 gastronomic gastronomie map 739p map 739p vermicelli 744 garnishes 409 prunes Yorkshire 1003 garnishes 409 prunes 740740 Yorkshire 1003 grenadins 436 puffer 744 grenadins 436 compote 260.740 compote 260,740 puffer 744 hamburger steak M7 hamburger steak 447 puits d'amour 744 wine withwith wine 740740 puits d'amour 744 10481048

INDEX INDEX pluJrp 744

Pulque 744 pumpkin pumpkin744,744P,745P 744, 744p, 745p brddes hrèdes 148 148 au augratin gratin744-5 744-5 gratin, gratin,with withrice rice745 745

jam jam745 745

aujus au jus 745 745 pudding pudding 743 743 purbe purée 745 745 salad salad 745 745 souffi6 soufflé 745 745 soup, soup,pur6e of of 877-8 877-8 sweet-sour sweet-sourdà I'allemande l'allemande 745 745 punch punch 745 745 iced iced 745 745 dà la la romaine romaine 495 495 kirsch kirsch 745 745 marquise marquise 745 745 rum rllm 745 745 punch punch cake I79 179 pur6e-presser ouree-Iore~:;ser 748 748 pur6es purées 745 745 anchovy 745 745 artichokes 746 55,746-7 asparagus 55,746-7 63,747 aubergine 63, 747 beans 92,93,9+5,747 93,94-5,747 beef 746 beetroot 747 746 brains 746 brains sProuts !156 Brussels sprouts 56 746 liver 746 calf's liver calrs 185 cardoons cardoo os 185 L90,747 carrot 190, carrot 747 190 cream 190 with cream with 190 rice 190 with rice with 196,747 cauliflower 196,747 cauliflower 197 celeriac 197 celeriac 197-8,747 celery 197-8,747 218,747 chestnut 218, chestnut 747 229,746 chicken 229,746 chîcken 418 of 418 royale of 748 chick-peas748 chick-peas 239 chicory239 chîcory 295,747 cucumber295,747 cucumber 360 endive360 endive and crustaceansand fish,crustaœans fish, 745-6 molluscs745-6 molluscs gras746 746 foiegras fOÎe 382-3,383P trufled382--3, truffied garne746 746 game royaleofof4!418 royale 8 408,747 garlic408, garlic 747 745 herring745 herring artichoke Jerusalemartir.hoke Jerusalem 520,747 520. 747 lentil747 1entîl 747 554.747 lettuce554, lettuce 747 gourd747 747 marrowororgourd marrow

d la

meat meat746 746 mushrooms mushrooms747-8 747-8 mussel musse!746 746 onion onionsoubise soubise748 748

oysters oysters746 746

peas peas748 748 royale royaleof of418 418 Saint-Germain Saint-Germain 667 667 peas, peas,split split 677,748 677,748 pheasant pheasant 688 688 potato potato 728 728 dàlalacrdme crème 728 728 au augratin 728 728 poultry poultry 746 746 pumpkin pumpkin 745 745 salmon salmon 746 746 sardine sardine 468 468 sea-urchin sea-urchin 746,837 746,837 shrimp shrimp 746 746 sole sole 862 862 sorrel sorrel 863 863 spinach spinach 748 748 straining straining 901-2 901-2 sweetbread sweetbread 746 746 sweet sweet pePPer pepper 748 748 sweet sweet Potato potato 911 911 748,916 tarragon tarragon 748,9 J6 418 of roYale tomato, tomato, of 418 748,938 truffie truffie 748, 746 lunny 746 tunny 945 turnip 945 turnip 746 veal vea! 746 746-8 vegetables 746-8 975 watercress watercress 975 1000 woodcock 1000 woodcock 748 purslane purslane 748 878 of 878 soup, pur6e of soup, 740P Vaucluse Puyr6mas, Puyrémas, Vaucluse 740p

a quail749,749P quail 749, 749p 749 cases749 inincases 749 I'italienne749 à dJ'italienne 749 Lamballe la i à la Lamballe 749 749 d la mirePoix749 àla 749 Mont-BrY749 Mont-Bry

P6rigueux 749

la strasbourgeoise i àla àla 749-50 749-50 dlavigneronne 750, à la vigneronne 750. 750p 750p casserole 750 casserole 750 d la bonne femme à la bonne femme 750 750 with grapes 750 with grapes 750 chaud-froid 750 chaud-froid 750 en chemise 750 en chemÎse 750 with cherries 750 wi th cherries 750 en cocotte 750 en cocotte 750 cold 751 cold 751 confit 750 confit 750 devilled 751 devilled 75\ d la financidre 751 à la financière 751 with rice border 751 with ricc border 751 d la gourmande 751 à la gourmande 751 grilled: d la duchesse grilled: à la duchesse 75r 751 d l'indienne 751 à l'indienne 751 jellied d la jellied à !a perigourdine 751 751 dlalimousine 751 à la 751 Lucullus 751 Lucullus 751 minute 751 751 iàminute la Monselet 751 la Monselet 751 mousse" cold 751-2 mousse, cold 751-2 in a nest 752,752p in a nest 752, 752p pifi6 752 pâté 752 with peas 752 with peas 752 petit-duc 752 petit-duc 752 pie with trufles 693 pie with truffles 693 with rice 752 with rice 752 with risotto 752 with risotto 752 d la pi6montaise 752 à la piémontaise 752 roast 752 roast 752 d la romaine 752-3 à la romaine 752- 3 Saint-Mars 753 Saint-Mars 753 753 àdlaSouvarov la Souvarov 753 d la Talleyrand 753 à la TaHeyrand 753 tinned, in jellY 753 tînned, injelly 753 quatre-quarts 753 quatre-quarts 753 quenelles 754 754 carp 189 carp 189 chicken 754 chicken 754 foie gras 754 foie gras 754 forcemeat 387-8 forcemeal 387-8 game 754 game 754 as garnish 417 as garnish 417 meat 754 meat 754 pike mousseline 754 pike mousseline 754 pike princesse 754, pike 754. 754P 754p salmon 796 salmon 796 sole 862 sole 862 veal 754 veal 754 quinche 754 quinche 754 with cheese 754 with cheese 754 with ham 754 with ham 754 1049

1049

Lorraine 483,754,

Lorraine 483, 754, 754P

754p 754-5 quillet

quillet 755,755P 754--5 quince

quince 755,205 charlotte charlotte755 205 compote compote 755 277 cotignac cotignac 277 jelly 517,755 517,755 jelly 556 liqueur liqueur 556 576,755 marmalade marmalade 576,755 755 paste paste 755 520 pastejellY paste jelly 520

R rabbit

756

rabbit 756194P bones bones 194p 757P cleaning deaning 756 Coquibus757p Coquibus 756 cutting 757P,758P cutting 756 758p fricass6e757p, fricassée 756 pie, with trufles 693 truffies rum and 693 prunes withwith with prunes and rum 782 782 with currY saut6ed: sauù:ed: with curry 756 756 with paPrika 756, with 758paprika 756, 758 756P skinning skinning 758 wild756p rabbit, rabbit. wild 758 758 blanquette hlanquetle 758 758 boiled, d I'anglaise boiled, à l'anglaise 758 758 chasseur chasseur 758 758 en gibelotte pit6 758 758

potted

758

potted 758 roast 758 roast 758 saut6ed: i la minute 758 saUléed: à la minute 758 758 with mushrooms with mushrooms 758 758 rabotte rabotte 758758 racahout racahoul 758 raclette 758 raclette 758 racoon758 racoon 758758 radishes radishes 758 black758 black 758d'oeuvre 467 as hors aspink: hors d'oeuvre 467 in cream 758 pink: in cream 758

INDEX INDEX glazed 7Sg-9

glazed 758-9 poulette 759 poulette in stock759 759 ragotts in stock 759 425,759 ragoû 425,759 759 i lats banquidre à beatilles la banquière 97 759 beef lll, béati!les 97 lllp 111,llIp beef camel, with tomato camel, with sauce 182tomato sauce 182 d la cancalaise 759 à celeriac la cancalaise 759 759 celeriac 759 759 d la c6venole àchipolata la cévenole759 759 chipolata 759 and cocks'combs cocks' corn759 bs and kidneys kidneys tails 759 ri la crayfish crayfish Nantuatails 285à la dNantua 285 759 la financiere àgiblets la financière 759 425 goose 431 giblets 425 goose d la 431 bonne femme à la bonne femme 431 431 i I'anglaise 543 lamb: lamb: l'anglaise 543 d la àbonne femme à 543 la bonne femme 543 d la cardinal lobster lobster 759 à la cardinal d759 la marinidre 760 àmolluscs la marinière 760 760 molluscs 760760 mushrooms mushrooms mutton 616 760 mutton 616 616 d I'anglaise à l'anglaise with barley 616 616 barleyfemme 616 dwith la bonne à616_17 la bonne femme with 616-17 celeriac 617 with chick-peas celeriac 617 with d la with chick-peas catalane 617 à la catalane 617 617 with kohlrabi with macaroni kohlrabi d617 with la macaroni with milanaise 617 à la milanaise 617 ri la nigoise 617 niçoise 617 dàlalapaysanne 617 à la paysanne with red beans 617 616 wi thrice red 617 beans 616 with withwhite rice 617 with haricot haricot with beanswhite 616,616p ,Nantua beans 760616, 616p Nantua offal 760 760 ri offal 760 la p6rigourdine 762 pig's à la lights pèrigourdine 762 637 lights 637760 d pig's la printanidre seafood à la printanière 760 760 sweet seafood 760 d peppers I'espagnole sweet pep pers 684à l'espagnole Talleyrand 760684 d Talleyrand la tortue 760760 tortue 760 760 dà lalatoulousaine truffes 760 à la toulousaine 760 turkey truffies944 760 turkey 944 vegetables 760 vegetables 760

Ragneneau 760

Ragneneau rail 761 760 rail 761 761 raisine raisiné raisins761 434,761 raisins 434,761 wine 124 wine 124 raiton 761 raiton Raki 761 761 Raki 761 484,761 ramekins ramekins cheese484, 761 761 cheese 761 rampion 761 rampion 761 TT0 Ramponneat Ramponneau Rancio 761 770 Rancio 761259 rape seed rape seed 259761,761p raspberries raspberries 761p qeam Bavarian761, 761 Bavarian charlottecream 761 761 charlotte compote 761 260,762 compote 260, 762 cream 762 cream cr6pes762 288 crêpes 288 378 flan, cream flan, cream fritters 397 378 fritters 397 123 hippocras hippocras ice 492 123 ice iced492 mousse or pur6e iced 762mousse or purée 762 516-17 jam jam juice,516-17 pulp 762 juice, pulp 762 liqueur 556 liqueur 556520 pastejelly pastejelly sauce 827 520 sauce 827 sundae 909p sundae912 909p syrup syrup 912 tart 918 tart 918 d I'allemande 917 à l'allemande 917 tartlets 919 tartlets 919 vinegar 969 vinegar 969 Rassol'nik 887-8 Rassol'nik rastegai 484887-8 rastegai rat 762 484 rat 762762 ratafia ratafia 762762 ntatouille ratatouille770 762 Rat-Mort Rat-Mort raton 762 770 raton 762 ravioli 484,762,762p 484,762, ravioli forcemeats for 762p 763 forcemeats for 763 garnish 417 as gamish ray,assee skate 417 ray, see skate r6chaud 763,763p réchaud 763,icn 763p redcurrants: 492 redcurrants: soup 124 ice 492 soup 124 tart d I'allemande 917 à l'allemande 917 red tart mullet, see mullet, red rednettle mullet, see mullet, red red 763 red nettle redstart 763763 redstart 763 reduction 763 reduction redwing 763763 redwing 763763.4 refrigeration 763-4 refrigeration refrigerator 764,764p refrigerator 764, 764p r6galade, dla 764 règalade,La à la 764 R6gence, 770 Régence, reindeer 764La 770 reindeer 764 1050

l050

reine, dla 394 ri la cr6ole676 676 reine, à la 394 à la créole religieuse 764,764p withfruit fruit676 676 with religieuse 764, 764p r6moulade 764,797 normande676 676 à dlalanormande rémoulade 764,787 renaissance, 765 Pompadour676 676 Pompadour renaissance, à d.la la 765 rennet 67,765 pilaf699 699 rennet 67,765 pilaf repdre 765 potageXavier Xavier881 881 repère 765 potage reptiles: eggs 357 pudding743 743 reptiles: eggs 357 pudding restaurants 765-6 chocolate743 743 restaurants 765-6 chocolate of fame 766-71 English743 743 offame 766-71 Englisb reticulum 771 puddingmould mould775 775 pudding reticulum 771 r6veillon 771 ring:with withcherries cherries136 136 réveillon 771 ring: reverdir 771 136 reverdir 771 à dlacr6ole la créole J 36 rhinoceros 771 withfruit fruit775-6 7754 with rhinoceros 771 rhubarb 771 Montmorency 136 136 rhubarb 771 Montmorency compote 772 withvarious various compote 772 with freezing 737 garnishes135 135 freezing 737 garnishes goldencordial 1234 risotto: milanaise golden cordial 123-4 risotto: àdlalamilanaise jam 517,772 774 jam 517,772 774 pie 772 pi6montaise pie 772 àrilala piémontaise tart 772 774_5,774p tart 772 774-5,774p English 918 saffron 776 776 saffron English 918 rhyton 772 la serviette serviette 840 840 rhyton 772 àd la ibbon 772 soup, cream cream of of 874 874 ribbon 772 soup, rice 772-3,772p subrics 776 776 rice 772--3, 772p subrics boiled, with butter 773 pi6montaise 487 la piémontaise 4g7 butter 773 boiled, with àri la border: turning out tart 775 775 border: tuming out tart 963p with apricots apricots 775 775 963p with casserole : d I'ancienne vanilla, àd la la Bourbon casserole: à l'ancienne vanilla, t92 776 192 776 fillings for 192 water 124,776 water 124,776 192 fillings for small 192 Riche 770 Riche (Cafb) (Café) 770 small 192 cooking 773 riche, cooking 773 riche, àdla la 776 776 creamed 775 Richelieu Richelieu (pdtisserie) (pàtisserie) 776 776 creamed 775 cream fritters 397 Richelieu, la 776 Richelieu, àdla cream fritters 397 d,lacrlole 774 rickets rickets 776 776 à la créole 774 croquettes 475 ridge ridge cucumber croquettes 475 cucumber 776 776 d I'am6ricaine 475 rigodon rigodon 776-7 776-7 à J'américaine 475 curried 475 withmeat with meat 777 777 curried 475 old style 291 rijspap rijspap 776 776 old style 291 iàlalapiemontaise rillauds piémontaise 475 475 rillauds 777 777 savoury 291 illettes rillettes 777 777 savoury 291 stuffed 291 rillons stuffed 291 rillons 777 777 sweet 291 nllots sweet 291 rillots 777 777 dessert (sweet) 775 Rindfl eischk ochwiirste dessert (sweet) 775 Rindfteischkochwürste in dietetics 773 830 in dietetics 773 830 flan 775 ring ring(border) (border) 134 134 flan 775 with apricots 775 for forbrains brainsdàlala with apricots 775 fritters 397,479 pi6montaise piémontaise 134 134 fritters 397,479 g6teau: with caramel cold, cold,for forentr6es entréesoror gàteau: with caramel 775 sweet sweetdishes dishes135, 135,l35p 135p 775 with meringue 775 custard, custard,with withmirabelles mirabelles with meringue 775 au gras 774 d àlalavosgienne vosgienne135-6 135-6 au gras 774 d la grecque 774 fordesserts for desserts135-6 135-6 à la grecque 774 d I'imp,6ratice 775egg: à l'impératrice 775, egg:Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin 775p t34 775p 134 d I'indienne 774 dlaprincesse à l'indienne 774 134 à la princesse134 little croustades 292 fish fishforcemeat forcemeatwith with little croustades 292 in milk 775 various in milk 775 variousgarnishes garnishes134 134 Montmorency 775 frogs' vert-p16 Montmorency 775 frogs'legs legs vert-pré134 134 panada 663 game forcemeat, panada 663 game forcemeat,with with pav6s: d la c6ven ole 676 various garnishes pavés: à la cévenole 676 gamishes135 135 various

INDEX INDEX haunch haunch779 779 noisettes potato potato135, 135,l35P 135p noisettes779-80 779-80 pie pie780 780 rice ricewith withcherries cherries136 136 saddle dlacreole sadd le780 780 à la créole136 136 d àI'allemande l'allemande780 780 MontmorencY Montmorency136 136 grand with grandveneur veneur780 780 withvarious various sliced, garnishes sliced,with withvarious various garnishes 135 135 sauces semolina:filled filledwith with sauces780 780 semolina: roes, various 136 variousfruit fruit 136 roes,soft soft454,851 454, 851 i àI'anglaise with withvarious various l'anglaise851 851 ininbarquettes garnishes gamishes 135 135 barquettes 851 851 ininbrown sole soledàlalanormande normande brownbutter butter 851-2 851-2 butter l35P 135, bu tter 169-70 169-70 135,135p carps' veal veaiforcemeat, forcemeat,with with carps' 189 189 cold, various 135 variousgarnishes garnishes 135 cold,with withcold coldfish fish 852 852 476 with crofites risotto: risotto: dàlalamilanaise milanaise croûtes with 476 dàlalaflorentine, 774 774 florentine, scalloP scallop shells 774-- 5, la pi6montaise piémontaise 774-5, dàla shells 486 486 fritters 774P fritters 479,852 479,852 774p as rissoles 484,777 484, 777 rissoles as garnish garnish 852 852 herring dà la la boh6mienne bohémienne 484 484 herring 454 454 in dà la in mayonnaise mayonnaise 852 852 la chalonnaise chalonnaise 484 484 dà la Cinderella la meunidre meunière 852 852 Cinderella 484 484 in rià la dauphine 484 484 la dauPhine butter 852 852 in noisette noisette butter omelette farm farm 484 484 omelette de de Savarin Savarin 3s+5 foie gras 383,484 383, 484 3545 pannequets mincemeat 591 pannequets 664 664 patties Pompadour Pompadour 484 patties 483 483 shells ià la scalloP shells in Rivesaltes (Muscat de) in scallop la 852 normande 778 normande 852 778 486 small 486 soufl6s, small roach roach 778,778p soufflés, 852 tartlets 778 roast tartlets 852 roast 376 toast 376 on toast 297-8,297P roasting 297p roasting 297-8, on 467,467P,780 rollmops 467, pan 778 778 roasting pan roasting rollmops 467p, 780 467 garnished 467 rolls: garnished 298 roasts: gravy 298 roasts:.gtavY rolls. 780 pudding 780 roly-poly pudding times cooking times average average cooking roly-poly 418 la 418 romaine, àd la 298 298 romaine, 78, banquets 78, Romans: banquets 778 Romans: rob rob 778 78p 394 Robert, la 394 78p Robert, àdla 266-7 cooking 266-7 778 robin 778 robin cooking 780 rook 780 771 Cancale 771 deCancale Rocher Rocher de rook pie780 780 778 pie rocket rocket 778 780 ropiness780 partridge 778 778 ropiness rock rock partridge 780 rosemary 780 837 rock-weed rock-weed 837 rosemary cream Bavarian cream roses:Bavarian 778,778p roebuck 778p roebuck778, roses: aux919l 778-9 orcutlets cutlets778-9 choPsor chops aux 520 pastejelly 779, chestnuts 779, withchestnuts with pas te jelly 520 670 pastilles670 779p 779p pastilles 969 vinegar969 779 Conti779 Conti vinegar (Rosolio)781 781 Rossoll(Rosolio) 779 creme779 à dlalacréme Rossoll 781 rotengle 779 grapes withgrapes 779 rotengle 781 with 781 rdtie781 juniPerberries berries withjuniper with rôtie 781 r6tisserie781 779 779 rôtisserie 781 rougail781 779 minute779 rougail à dlalaminute green781 781 apples,green poivrade779 779 poivrade apples, 781 aubergines781 779 romaine779 à dlalaromaine aubergines tomatoes andtomatoes codand saltcod 779 d'Uzds779 d'Uzés salt 781 778 civet778 civet 781 andprawns shrimpsand Prawns 359 6minc6s359 émincés shrimps 781 779 mignons779 filetsmignons 781 filets 781 raw781 tomatoes,raw 779 hash779 tomatoes, hash mou Ids134p 134p moulds

roulade (roll) 781 roulade (roll) 781 781 roul6 roulé 781 roulette 781,781p roulette 781, 781 P roussette 781-2 roussette 781-2 roussir 782 roussir 782 782 roux roux 782 418,782 royale royale 418, 782 418 asparagus tiPs asparagus tips 418 carrots, d la Cr6cY 418 carrots, à la Crécy 418 celery 418 celery 418 chicken Pur6e 418 chicken purée 418 game pur6e 418 gamepurée 418 pie pur6e 418 pie purée 418 plain 418 plain 418 tomato Pur6e 418 tomato purée 418 royale, dla 782 royale, à la 782 rudderfish 9A4,904P rudderfish 904,904p 782 rum rum 782 Rumania: cookerY 504 Rumania: cookery 504 Ruscus 782 Ruscus 782 782 rush rush 782 rusks 782 rusks 782 diet 782 diet 782 Paris 783 Paris 783 Russia: cookerY 508-9 Russia: cookery 508-9 rutabaga 783 rutabaga 783 russula 783 russula 783 783 rye rye 783

sS

sablage 784

sablage 784 sabl6 784 sablé 784 saccharine 784 saccharine 784 784 saccharometer saccharometer 784 sacristain 784 sacristain 784 saddle 784 sadd le 784saffiower 784 safflower 784 saffron 784 saffron 784 sage 784 sage 784 and onion forcemeat and onion forcemeat 389 389 andonionsauce 822 and onion sauce 822 sago 784 sago 784 pudding 743 pudding 743 with red wine 785 with red wine 785 785 George's agaric StStGeorge's agaric 785

l05l

1051

Saint-Germain 785 Saint-Germain 785785 Saint-Honor6 Saint-Honoré 785 St John's wort 785 St John's wort 785785 Saint-Michel

Saint-Michel 785 : gastronomic Saintonge

Saintonge: gastronomie 30P map

map785 30p Sak6

Saké 785 792 saladburnet

burnet 792 saladdressings: for mixed salad salad for mixed 788-9 saladsdressings: 7889 salads 785, plain salads for for 787 plain salads 785, 787785 salads salads 785 789 Albignac Albignac 789 789 Ali-Baba Ali- Baba 789 789 allemande allemande 789,789P 789 American American459 789, 789p anchovy anchovy 459789 Andalusian Andalusian789 789 Argenteuil Argenteuil 789 789 Arl6sienne Arlésienne63789 aubergine 63 aubergine 789 Bagration Bagration461,789 789 beetroot beetroot 461,789 789 d la creme la polonaise crème 789 789 dà la à la polonaise 789 789 Bressane Bressa ne 790 789 Brimont Brimont sProuts 790 156-7 Brussels Bmssels sprouts 156-7 172 cabbage cabbage 172 790 calves'brains calves' brains 790790 cancalaise cancalaise 790 cardoon 185 cardoon 185195 cauliflower cauliflower cress 790 celeriac with195 celeriac 231 cress 790 chickenwith chicken 239 chicory 231 chicory 239295,463 cucumber cucumber 295,463 302 custard marrow custard marrow demi-deuil 790 302 demi-deuil Doria 790 790 Doria 790 790,790P Dubarry Dubarry 790 790p favourite790, favourite 790 790 Flemish Flemish 790 392'790 Francillon Francillon 392,93,93P 790 beans French French beans 93, 93p green 786P green 786p 790 Imperia Imperia 790 Italian 790 ItaHan 790 790 Japanese Japanese 790 artichoke Jerusalem artichoke Jerusalem 520 520 lettuce, with hardlettuce, with hard787P boiledeggs boiled 790 787p lobstereggs lobster 790 790 Maharajah Maharajah 790 marrow 514 marrow 790 Mikado514 Mikado 591 mimosa790 591 mimosa mixed 788 mixed 788 604 mushroom mushroom 604

INDEX INDEX mussels 466 nigoise466 mussels 791 niçoise 791791 oriental 791 466,629 oriental ox muzzle oxoxmuzzle tongue466,629 466 longue 791 466 oxParisian Pernollet Parisian 791791 plain 785791 Pernollet plain 785 complimentary garnishes for 7g7 complimentary from cooked garnishes for 787 from cooked 797_g vegetables vegetables 787-8 dressings for 7g5, dressings for 785, 787 Port-Royal 787 791,79|p potato 789p791, 791p Port-Royal pumpkin potato 789p 745 pumpkin 745 Rachel 791 Raphael Rachel 791791,791p raw 787 791,791 P Raphael Reine raw 787 P6dauque 791 Rossini Reine Pédauque 791 791 Russian791 Rossini 791 salsify 802 791 Russian salsify salt cod802 255 sauerkraut, salt cod 255 d I'allemandeà 791,g29 sauerkraut, shellfish l'allemande 791 791,829 shrimp 468,943 shellfish 791 d la dieppoise shrimp 468,843 792 àspinach la dieppoise 891 792 spiny lobster spinach 891 7g0, gg4 sweet spiny peppers lobs ter 790,894 (pimento) sweet pep pers d la cr6ole 6g4,7gl (pimento) à la créole sweet potatoes 9l I 684,791 tomato sweet potatoes 911 928 trufles tomato 791,939 928 vegetable truffles 791, 792939 vegetablesfor vegetable 792 78gp watercress vegetables 792,975 for 788p whitebait watercress469 792,975 white whitebait beans469 (fresh) 95 salamander white beans 792(fresh) 95 salamb6 salamander 792 792,792p salami salam bô 792, 792p 467,792 salangane salami 467,792 792 sal6 792 salangane 792 salep salé 792 792 jelly 792 salep 792 soup jelly 792 792 salmigondis soup 792 792 salmis salmigondis 792 394,792 salmon salmis 793,793p 394,792 attereaux salmon 793,793 793p boiled attereaux 793 : d l'anglaise 794 with various boiled: à l'anglaise sauces 794 with various sauces 793 braised 793794 butter braised 169794 d la canadienne butter 169 467 à la canadienne 467

Chambord 794 hot 793-8 g00 d la chalonnaise800 hot 793-8 chalonnaise à la Chambord 794 cold 798-800 kedgeree 796 chasseur 800 coldd 798-800 kedgeree 796 chasseu r 800 I'anglaise 798, kromeskies 795 chicken800 800 kromeskies 795 à l'anglaise 798, chicken 798p mayonnaise 799_900 cocks'combs 800 mayonnaise 799-800 798p cocks' combs 800 garnishes for 79g m6daillons of, cold g00 itblanc 246 médaillons or, cold 800 garnishes l'or 798 à blanc 246 with Montpellier Orly of fillets with 246 with Montpellier Orly of fillets with â dbrun brun 246 butter 800 tomato sauce 796 crayfish800 800 butter 800 tomato sauce 796 crayfish cold steak with various paupiettes: cucumbers800 800 paupiettes: à d cold steakand with various cucumbers sauces garnishes I'imp6riale467 467 Cussy801 801 l'impériale sauces and garnishes Cussy 800 auvert 467 801 au vert 467 800 cucutlets tlets 801 coulibiac 795 pav6 d la Nantua 675 dlaladieppoise dieppoise801 801 coulibiac 795 pavé à la Nantua 675 à court-bouillon for 793 pie 692 l'6carlate801 801 court-bouillon for 793 pie 692 à dl'écarlate creamed, au gratin 795 hot, d la frangaise fish801 801 creamed, au 795 gratin 795 hot, à la française fish croquettes 796 g0l d financidre801 796 croq uettes â lalafinanciére cutlets 794795 en pantin 692 foiegras gras801 801 en pantin 692 r oie cutlets 794 d I'am6ricaine 794 6 la russe 692 French beans beans801 801 à la russe 692 French àinl'américaine aspic 798 794 pilaf 796 dlalacréme crdme 801 801 pilaf 796 â inbraised aspic 798 with red d la princesse 796 fruit 801 801 braised with red â la princesse 796 fruit wine 794 purile 746 game 801 801 wine 794 purée 746 game braised with white quenelles 796 ham 801 801 quenelles 796 ham braised with white wine 795 risotto 796 g0l hard-boiled eggs eggs 801 wine 795795 risotto 796 hard-boiled Mornay roast 796 Jerusalem artichokes artichokes Mornay 795 roast 796 Jerusalem d la moscovite 79g in scallop shells 796 801 âwith la moscovite 798 801 in scallop shells 796 mushrooms d la d la florentine 796 d la la Joinville Joinville 801 801 with mushrooms à la â la florentine 796 à crdme 795 d la Mornay 796 juive 205 d la la juive 205 crème 795 à la Mornay 796 à with mushrooms and la provengale 797 lobster 801 801 àd la provençale 797 with mushrooms and lobster Madeira 795 with shrimps 797 meat 801 801 Madeira 795 with shrimps 797 meat d la Nantua 798 skewered 797 la Montglas Montglas 595,801 595, g0l skewered 797 àd la Nantua 798 àd la I'orientale 798 smoked 467 mushroom 604,801 604.801 à l'orientale 798 smoked 467 mushroom d la parisienne 798-9 Boston style 467 g0l with 798-9 Boston style 467 with Madeira Madeira 801 à la parisienne Pojarski 795 d la moscovite 467 mussels 801 à la moscovite 467 mussels 801 Pojarski 795 d la russe 799 souffi6 797 onions soufflé 797 onions 801 801 à la russe 799795 with truffies steak d I'am6ricaine g0l p6rigourdine dà la steak à l'américaine la périgourdine 801 with truffles 795 with trufres and 797 potatoes 801 797 potatoes 801 with truffles and cream 795 dl'anglaise 797 dà la à l'anglaise 797 la reine reine 801 801 cream 795 variously garnished fried 797 dà la royale 801 variously garnished fried 797 la royale 801 795 grilled 797,797p dà la grilled 797, 797p la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert g0l 801 795 794p cutting d la meunidre 797 shrimps à la meunière 797 shrimps 801 801 cuttingd 794p darne, I'ancienne 304 d la Nantua 797 g0l spiny darne, â l'ancienne 304 â la Nantua 797 spinylobster lobs ter 900, 800,801 Daumont 795 poached in white sweetbreads 801 poached in white sweetbreads 801 Daumont 795 escalopes 795 wine 797 tomatoes wine 797 tomatoes 801 801 escalopes fillets 796 795 trongon, Phil6as truffies tronçon, Philéas t ru ffles 801 80 1 fillets 796 fried skewered i97 Gilbert veal fried skewered 797 Gilbert 797-8,798p 797-8, 798p veal 801 801 fritters 797 salmon trout 800,936 salsify 802 salsify 802 salmon trout 800,936 frittefs 797 galantine 799 salpicon 800-l ininb6chamel galantine 799 in salpicon 800--1 béchamel 802 802 glazed: Bellevue. d I'am6ricaine 800 au beurre glazed: Bellevue, in à l'américaine 800 au beurrenoisette noisette g02 802 aspic 799 anchovies 800 dàlalacrdme anchovies 800 crème802 802 aspic 799 au Chambertin 799. artichokes 800 fritters au Chambertin 799, artichokes 800 !'ritters 395,802 395,802 799p with cream 800 Mornay 799p with cream 800 Mornay802 802 d la champenoise asparagus (green) 800 omelette à la champenoise asparagus (green) 800 omeletted àlala 799 aubergines in cream maraichdre 799 au aubergines in cream maraîchère354 354 cutlets 800 d àlalapolonaise polonaise802 802 cutlets au 800 Chambertin 799 beetroot 800 salad salad802 802 Chambertin 799 beetroot 800 cutlets with d la boh6mienne 800 saut6ed: cutlets \Vithof à la bohémienne 800 sautéed:auaubeurre beurreg02 802 mac6doine bone-marrow 130 auxfinesherbes macédoine799 of bone-marrow 130 aux fines herbesg02 802 vegetables brains 800 provengale dà lala-g02 vegetables 799 799 brains 800 provençaleg02 802 d I'imp6riale cancalaise 800 shoots à l'impériale 799 shoots 802 cancaJaise 800 Monselet 799 cardinal 800 ininveal Monselet 799799, cardinal 800 stockg02 802 vealstock parisienne d la carrots d la crdme 800 salt g02_3 à la parisienne 799, carrots à la crème 800 salt 802--3 799p celeriac 197,800 g90 spiced celeriac 197,800 spicedg03, 803, 890 d la799p russe 799 cdpes 800 salting 7334,g03 à la russe 799 cèpes 800 salting 733-4,803 r052 1052

INDEX INDEX

salting saltingtub tub803 803 salt saltmeadow meadow803 803 saltpetre sai tpetre803 803 samphire samphire803 803 sand sandeel eel 803 803 sand sandpiper piper(guignette) (guignette) 437,803 437,803 sand-smelt sand-smelt(ath6rine) (athérine) 59, 59, 59p 59p sandwich sandwichcakes, cakes,see see sponge spongecakes cakes sandwiches sandwiches 803 803 Alsatian Alsatian 804 804 antibois an tibois 804 804 basil basil 804 804 bookmaker's bookmaker's 804 804 croque-monsieur croque-monsieur 290 290 Dijon Dijon 804 804 foie foie gras gras 804 804 p6rigourdine périgourdine 804 804 sweet sweet 804 804 tartare tartare 804 804 toasted toasted 804 804 watercress watercress 976 976 sangler 804 sangri 804 Sangria 804 sansonnet 804 sapodilla 804 Saracencorn Saracen corn 804 la 418 sarde. àd la sarde, 80,S-5,805p sardines 804-5,805p sardines 805 I'anglaise 805 àd l'anglaise 805 I'antiboise 805 àd l'antiboise 140,805 bouillabaisse 140,805 bouillabaisse 169,805 butter 169,805 butter 472 canapbs 472 canapés 462 nantaise 462 àd lala nantaise 477 dartois 477 dartois 389 forcemeat 389 forcemeat 805 fried 805 fried grilled 805 805 grilled 805 468,805 oil 468, ininoil au papercases· cases:au inin paper gratin 805 805 gratin 805 I'italienne805 àdl'italienne 805 portugaise805 àdlalaportugaise paupiettes805 805 enpaupiettes en 805 auplat au plat 805 pur6e468 468 purée (preserved) salted(preserved) salted 805 805 spinachà dlala withspinach with provengale806 806 provençale 806 wine806 whitewine withwhite with 807 Sargasso807 Sargasso 418 sarrasine,à dlala418 sarrasine, 807 Sassenage807 Sassenage 807 satyrion807 satyrion 827,827p sauceboat827, sauceboat 827p 315 double315 saucepan, saucepan, double

sauces sauces807 807 African African808 808 aigre-doux aigre-doux808 808 aigrelette, aigrelette,with withverjuice verjuice 816 816 Albert Albert489,816 489,816 Alboni Alboni 808 808 albuf6ra albuféra 816 816 allemande allemande 15,816-17 15,816-17 American American 817 817 anchovY anchovy 817,823 817,823 andalouse andalouse 817,823 817,823 aniseed aniseed 808 808 apple apple 42,823 42,823 apricot apricot 827 827 aurora aurora 817 817 banquidre banquière 817 817 basic basic (great) (great) 807-8 807-8 bitarde bâtarde 817 817 birnaise barnaise 97.817 97,817 beauharnais beauharnais 817 817 b6chamel béchamel 98,808 98, 808 with onion 817 817 with onion Bercy Bercy 817 817 bigarade bigarade 808-9 808-9 bonnefoy bonnefoy 809 809 bontemps bontemps 817 817 809 bordelaise bordelaise 809 Brandade Brandade da la la 817 provengale provençale 817 147,809,810, bread 147,809,810, bread 817 817 809 fried 809 fried 148,809,817 Breton 148,809,817 Breton 806P brown brown 806p 807-8 basic 807-8 brown basic brown comPound brown brown compound 808-16 808-16 gravY 809 809 brown gravy brown BurgundY Burgundy

(bourguignonne) (bourguignonne) 809-10 809-10 817-18 butter 817-18 butter

818 chervil818 withçhervil with 823 Cambridge Cambridge 823 818 caper818 caper 818 cardinal cardinal 818 818 celery818 celery 810 Chambertin 810 Chambertin 810 Chambord810 Chambord 818,823 Chantilly818,823 Chantilly 810 chapelure810 chapelure 810 charcutidre cha rcu tière 810 810 chasseur810 chasseur 810 chateaubriand810 chateaubriand chaud-froid:à d chaud-froid: 818 I'allemande818 l'allemande 818 I'andalouse818 à dl'andalouse 818 I'aurore818 à dl'aurore 818 banquidre818 à dlalabanquière 818 Beauharnais818 Beauharnais

blonde 818 blonde 818 brown 810 brown 810 chicken 810 chicken 810 d l'6cossaise 818 à l'écossaise 818 fish 810 fish 810 game-flavoured 810 game-ftavoured 810 d la hongroise 818 à la hongroise 818 d I'indienne 818 à l'indienne 818 d la Nantua 818 à la Nantua 818 8l I i àlalanigoise niçoise 811 with orange 810 with orange 810 d la royale 818 à la royale 818 d la sicilienne 818 à la sicilienne 818 with tomatoes 810 with tomatoes 810 with trufle essence wi th tfuffie essence 810 810 white 818 white 818 cherry 827 cherry 827 dried 8l I dried 811 818-19 chiwy chivry 818-19 chocolate 827 chocolate 827 Choron 817 Choron 817 cingalaise 823 cingalaise 823 Colbert 811 Colbert 811 cold 823-7 cold 823-7 Collioure 823 Collioure 823 cranberry 811 cran berry 81 1 crayfish 819 crayfish 819 cream 819 cream 819 Cressonidre 823 Cressonière 823 Cumberland 823 Cumberland 823 curry 819 curry 819 d I'indienne 819 a l'indienne 819 demi-esPagnole 310 demi-espagnole 310 demi-glace 310, 807 demi-glace 310,807 dessert 827 dessert (devilled) 827 811 diable diable (devilled) 811 dijonnaise 823 dijonnaise 823 diplomat 819 diplomat 819 duxelles 8l I duxelles 811 6cossaise 819 écossaise 8 J 9 egg 819 egg 819 and butter 819 and butter 819819 dl'6cossaise à l'écossaise 819 English 819 English 819 English bread and English bread and butter 819 butter 819 English cream 819 English cream 819 equipment for 807P equipment for 807p espagnole 362-3,807 espagnole 362-3,807 demi-glace 811 demi-glace 811 fennel 819-20 fenne! 819-20 financidre 811 financière 811 fines herbes 811,820 fines herbes 811, 820 foyot 820 foyot 820 French, for fish 820 French, for fish 820 freshwater fish 820 freshwater fish 820 genevoise 422,811 genevoise 422, 81 1 genoise, with genoise, wi th Bordeaux 811-12 Bordeaux 811-12 Godard 820 Godard 820 r053

gooseberry 812 gooseberry 812 812 grandveneur grand 820 veneur 812 Greek Greek 820 825 green mayonnaise green mayonnaise 436,823 825 gribiche gribiche 436,823 812 hach6e hachée 812812 herb herb 812 456,820 hollandaise hollandaise 456,820 supr0me 820 suprême 820 489,820, horseradish horseradish 489,820, 825 825 820 Hungarian Hungarian 810 820 hunter hunter 810 Indian 819 Indian 819 825 indienne indienne 812825 Italian Italian820 812 ivoire ivoire 820 820 Joinville Joinville 820 820 Laguipidre Laguipière 820 820 lobster lobster 820812,821 lyonnaise lyonnaise812 812,821 Madeira Madeira 812 821 d'h6tel maitre maître d'hôtel 821 821,825 maltaise maltaise 821, 821 825 marinidre marinière812 821 marrow marrow 812 824P,825 mayonnaise mayonnaise 824p, 825 825 with anchovY with anchovy825 825 with caviare with caviare 825 cress 825 with wi thrusse cress 825 825 d la àwith la russe 825 825 shrimps with 825 tarragon825 with shrimps with362 tarragon 825 mdre mère 592.825 mint 362 mint 821 morel592,825 morel 821821 Mornay Mornay 821 825 mousquetaire mousquetaire mousseline 821825 mousseline 821 mousseuse 821 mousseuse 812 mushroom 821 mushroom mussel 607 812 mussel 607607,812,821 mustard mustard 607,812,821 825 andcream and cream 821 825 Nantua Nantua 821 812 napolitaine napolitaine nigoise 825 812 niçoise 813 noisette825 noisette 813 821 normande normande onion 821 821 onion 821813 orange orange 813825 orientale orientale 825 Oxford 657 Oxford 813,821 oyster 657 oyster 813,821 821 paloise paloise 821825 Parisian Parisian 821 parsleY 825 parsley 813 pepper821 pepper 813 813 p6rigourdine périgourdine 813 perigueux 813 périgueux 813 821-2 pi6montaise piémontaise 821-2

INDEX

INDEX

pineapple 827 pineapple 827 pine kernel, d à pine kerne1, I'italienne814 814 l'italienne piquante 814 piquante 814 poivrade 813 poivrade 813 polonaise 822 polonaise 822 poor man's 814 poor man's 814 portugaise 814 po rtugaise 814 Port wine 814 Port wine 814 poulette 822 poulette 822 princesse 822 ", ... 1'"'1''''''''''''' 822 printanidre 822 822 provengale 8l4,g2S nro'venlcale 814,825 garlic 822 garlic 822 raspberry 827 raspberry 827 ravigote 762,814,822, ravigote 762,814,822, 82s 825 reducing 808p 808p red wine 809, 815 809,815 red wine reform 815 reform 815 remoulade 825 remoulade 825 riche 819 riche 819 Richelieu 822 Richelieu 822 Robert 778,81s Robert 778,815 roebuck 815 roebuck 815 romaine 815 romaÎne 815 roudz6 34 roudzé 34 rouennaise 815 rouennaise 815 royal 822 royal 822 Russian 822,925 Russian 822, 825 sageandonion 822 sage and onion 822 Sainte-Menehoulde Sain te- Menehoulde 815 815 St Malo 822 St Malo 822 salmis 815 salmis 815 with Champagne with Champagne 815 815 with red wine 816 with red wine 816 sardalaise 827 sardalaise 827 saupiquet 829 saupiquet 829 Scotch egg 822 Scotch 822 shallot 7,822,827 shal!ot 817,822,927 shrimp shrimp 822 822 soubise 822 soubise 822 soya 889 soya 889 straining straining 813p,814p, 813p, 814p, 90t-2 901-2 strawberry 827 suprOme 808,822-3 Swedish 827 Swedish 827

Talleyrand 823 Talleyrand 823 tarragon tarragon816 816 tartare tartare827 827 tomato tomato807-8 807-8 tortue tortue816 816

trufle

trume939 939 La Varenne 827 La Varenne 827 velout6 808 velouté 808 with onions withgreen greenonions 823 823 thick thick816 816

Venetian823 823 VenetÎan venison816 816 venison verdurette827 827 vcrdurette V6ron823 823 Véron Victoria816,823 816,823 Victoria Villeroi823 823 Villeroi vinaigrette826p,827 826p,827 Vincent827,968 827,968 Vincent Waterfisch976 976 Waterfisch white:basic basic808 808 white: compound816-23 816_23 compound whitewine wine823 823 white Worcestershire1002 1002 Worcestershire Yorkshire816 816 Yorkshire nngara816 816 saucisson827-8. 827-8,827p, saucisson 827p, 828p

sauerkraut 828-9,828p I'alsacienne 829 829 àdl'alsacienne garnish 829 asgarnish 829 as omelette àdl'alsacienne I'alsacienne omelette 351 351 salad 791 791 salad I'allemande 829 829 àd l'allemande assoupgarnish 829 soup garnish 829 as la strasbourgeoise strasbourgeoise àd la 829 829 saupiquet "" ",,...,,.,, ,,"'. 829 829 saur 829 829 saur saurel 829 829 saurel sausages 830-l sa usages 830-1 la catalane catalane 720 720 àd la chipolata 720 720 chipolata country country 720_l 720-1 cr6pinettes 288 devilled chipolata chipolata 484 484 6la à la duchesse duchesse 484 484 eel eel 330 330 forcemeat forcemeat for for poultry 387 387 Frankfurt Frankfurt 484,830 484, 830 forgarnish 830 for 830 grilled 830 830 as as hors horsd'oeuvre d'oeuvre 468. 468, 484 484 household (home-

made) 828 dàI'italienne 484 dàlalalanguedocienne Jangue:doael1oe 494,930 484, long long830 830 Lyon Lyon828 828 d àla la lyonnaise 484 484 madriline madrilène830 830 d àlalamaltaise maltaise484 484 pig's 721 pig'sliver Iiver721 pork 7l7J1,720 l, 720 red red830 830 with red or green cabbage 720

with wi thrisotto risotto830 830

à la piémontaise d la piemontaise831 831 roll roll831831 smoked smoked830p,831 830p,831 Strasbourg 831 Strasbourg484, 484,831 Toujouse Toulouse831 831 à dlalatyrolienne tyrolienne484 484 83 1 Vien na 484, Vienna 484,831 ininwhite whitewine wine831 831 àla d,lazingara484 484 sauté saut6 (method)831 831 sauté pan 831,831p saut6pan 831,83Ip sautés saut6s299,831 299,831 fish fish831 831 meat meat831 831 savarin savarin831-2 831-2 cherry,àrilalaChantilly Chantilly 832 832 àrilalacrème crdme 832 832 doughfor for318-19 318-19 Montmorency Montmorency 832 832 pineapple ):-"" ........ 1-".1-"..., 701 701 savarin p savarin mould mould 831 83lp saveloys saveloys 468 468 savory savory 832 832 savouries savouries 832 832 savouriog savouring 832-3 832-3 Savoy Savoy 833 833 gastronomic map g34p savoyarde, ila 833 Sawo manila 834, g35p

Saxifrage 834 Scabious 834 834 scald 834 scald scale 834 scallion 834 834 s.callop 834 834 scallop Saio t-Jacq ues scallop Saint-Jacques 835p,836p 834-5,835p,836p brochettes 835 835 brochettes fried 835 835 fried in batter ba Uer 835 835 in Colbert 835 835 Colbert tartare 835-6 835-6 la tartare dàla augratin gratin 835 835 au 835 riàla la dieppoise g35 in mayonnaise 835

Mornay 835 scallop shells : garnished

484-6 scampi, see prawns, Dublin Bay

Scandinavia:cookery r"r' .... Scandinavia: 509-10 s09-10 scarus836 836 scarus Schaleth,Jewish Jewish836 836 Schaleth, Schnitzel836 836 Schnitzel 836 scolymus 836 scorzonera802 802 scorzonera scoter-duck836 836 scoter-duck scum836 836 scum anemones836 836 seaanemones sea

plr"

1054 1054

seasea bass 836 bass 836 bream 836, 836p seaseabream 836,836p sea cow 836 seacow 836 seafoods 836p seafoods836, 836,836p flan 378 flan 378 fritters fritters395 395 omelette omelette355 355 ragott760 760 Ho 836-7 riso risotto 836-7 seakale seakale837 837 Swiss seakale seakalebeet, beet,see see Swiss chard chard seal seal837 837 sea-Iark sea-lark908 908 sea perch837 seaperch 837 sea seaslug slug837 837 seasonîng seasoning 837 837 sea urchin 837, 837p seaurchin 837,837p pur6e 746,837 746,837 seaweed seaweed 66 iridescent iridescent 512 512 sea seawrack wrack 837 837 sébille s6bille 837 837 Sehzer Seltzer water water 837 837 semolina semolina 837 837 English English pudding pudding 838 838 flamiri flamiri 377 377 friHers fritters 397 397 gnocchi 418 418 kasha 523,837-8 523,9i7-g Iîttle little croustades croustades 292 292 pav6s, small small 676 676 pudding 744, 838 pudding 7U,938 with fruit fruit with 838p ftHed with with various ring filled various 136 fruit 136 subrics 487,838 sept-oeil 838 838 Serdeau (Sers d'eau) 838 service 838-9 service 838-9 service-bcrry 839, 839, service-berry 839p serviette 839 serviette 839 serviette,riàla la 839-40 839--40 serviette, sesame 840 840 sesame sesameseed seedoil oil 648 sesame 648 840 Seyssel 840 shad 840,840p 840, shad Claudine 840 Claudine fried 840 840 fried J'anglaise 840 dàI'anglaise 840 Orly840 840 Orly grilled840 840 grilled mushrooms, à la withmushrooms, with d la bonnefemme femme 840 bonne 840 plank840 840 ononplank 840 auauplat 840 l'ancienne stuffed: d: àI'ancienne 840 840 840-1 ri la m6nagire 84G-l d la mode de

Cocherel 841

INDEX dàlalaportugaise portugaise 840 840 shad-bush shad-bush 841 841 shaggy shaggyink inkcap cap 841 841 shallot 841 841 shallot

butter butter 169,841 169,841 essence essence 363,841 363, 841 marchand marchand de devins vins

butter butter 169 169 sauce sauce 827 827 shark shark 841 841 sharpen 841 841 sharpening sharpening steel steel 841, 841, 84lp 841p shchi shchi 888 888 she-ass she-ass 841 841 sheep: brains, brains, see see brains brains sheep: head head 633 633 kidney, see see kidneYs kidneys liver, Iiver, see see liver liver taUs: braised braised 620 tails: grilled gri!led 620 620 trotters troHers 635 en blanquette blanquette 635 in crEpinettes dà la la p6rigourdine périgourdine 635 croquettes croquettes 635 fried 635 d à I'ancienne l'ancienne 635 fritots fritots 478 àd la hongroise hA,nOT'A":'" 635 d la poulette 635-6 àla àd la rouennaise 636 636 d la vinaigrette 468, àla 636 636 841 shell 841 shell flan 379 379 shellfish: flan shellfish: 395 fritters 395 fritters 450 hash 450 hash 465 d'oeuvre 465 hors d'oeuvre as hors as 559 loaves 559 loaves 581 mayonnaise 581 mayonnaise 648 oil 648 oiJ pannequets 664 664 pannequets patties 483 483 pie692 692 791 salad 791 salad purse 841 841 shepherd's purse shepherd's 494-5,841-2 sherbets494-5, sherbets 841-2 570 Madeira 570 Madeira 842 Sherry 842 842 cobbler 842 cobbler 842 shin842 shin 842 shirr 842 shirr 842 shortbread 842 shortbread 842 shoulder 842 shoulder 842 andslicer slicer842 shredderand shredder 842 shrike842 shrike 468,842,842P shrimps468,842, shrimps 842p 58,842 aspic58,842 aspic 471 barquettes47\ barquettes

skirret skirret 847 847

bisque bisque 878 878

slang, slang,culinary culinaryand andtable table 392-3 392-3 slaughter slaughter 847,847p 847p slaughter slaughterhouse house 847-8, 847-8, 848p 848p e e calamary sh, s see sleeve-fi s1eeve-fish, slimness slimness 848 848 sloe sloe 848 848 smallage smallage 848 848 smell smell 848 848 smelts smelts 848 848 dLi I'anglaise l'anglaise 848 848 enescabdche en escabèche 849 849 fried fried 849,849p 849, 849p skewered skewered 849 849 au gratin 849 849 grilled 849 849 dà I'anglaise 849 849 in in marinade marinade 468 468 on on skewers skewers 849,849p 849, 849p soup, soup, velout6 velouté 879 879 la dieppoise 879 dàla 879 dà I'indienne l'indienne 879 879 34 smoking smoking (preserving) (preserving) 7734 (tobacco) 849 smoking ~ll'V"'Jlllr, (tobacco) 849 snail snail dish dish 850p 850p snail pincers and snail and fork fork 850p 850p 849,850p snails 849, snails 850p 850 I'arl6sienne 850 àd l'arlésienne 850 d la bourguignonne 850 àla 850 broth broth la for, àd la butter for, butter 169 bourguignonne bourguignonne 169 850 chablisienne 850 la chablisienne àd la 850 Riguidi 850 Comtesse Riguidi Comtesse poulette 850 850 la poulette àd la 850,85lP snipe 850, snipe 851 casserole 850-l casserole with truffies trufles croustade, with croustade,

butter butter 169 169

canapls 462 462 cold coldmousse mousse 843 843 coquilles coquilles 842 842 crottes croûtesdàlalaNantua Nantua 293 293 forcemeat forcemeat 389 389 fried fried 843 843 omelette omelette 355 355 pannequets pannequets 664 664 patties 483 483 pilaf pilaf 843 843 prlrile purée 746 746 rougail 781 78J salad 468,843 468,843 la dieppoise 792 dàla 792 salpicon 801 sauce sauce 822 822 scallop scaUop shells shells 486 486

soufl6 soufflé 864 864

soup soup 843 843 pur6e purée 878 878 velout6 velouté 879 879 d à la la normande normande 879 879 smoked 468 sigui: sigui. smoked 468 843 silk-cotton tree silk-cotton tree 843 843 silkworms silkworms 843 843 Sillery 843 Sillery

843,844p, 845P silver sil ver 843, 843 silver sil ver birch bîrch 843 (ath6rine) 59, 59, silverside (athérine) silverside 59p,843 59p,843 843 simarouba 843 simarouba 843 simmering 843 C""""""""'nr,o singeing 843 singeing 843 sink 843 sink 843,846p siphon 843, siphon 846p 846 sirloin 846 sirloin skate 846,846p skate 846p 846 aubeurrenoir au beurre noir 846 846 noisette 846 beurre noisette au beurre au various with various boiled, with boiled, sauces 846 sauces fried 846 fried gratin 846 augratin au jellied 846 jellied liver 846 liver brown butter, and brown and of 486 shells of scallop shells scallop crofites croûtes 476,846 fritters 846 frÎtters polonaise, scallop scalloP àdlalapolonaise, 486 shells 486 shells 846 meunidre846 àdlalameunière 846 skewer846 skewer 60-l foodcookedon food cooked on 60--1 847 skim847 skim 847,847p skimmer 847, skimmer 847p 847 skin847 skin 847 skinning ................ t> 847

851 851

851 Lucullus 851 hot pit6 Lucullus 851 sniPe, great 851 846 snow 851 846 snowball 851 846 851 snowPartridge 851 846 snow 851 soaking 851 846 soaking 851 sobronade 851 butter, sobronade 851 486 soda-water soda-water 851 130 sodium perborate 130 476,846 sodium 852 softening 852 846 softening soft roes, soft see roes, roes, see soft roes, soft 852-3 sole852-3 sole 853 I'am6ricaine 853 àdl'américaine

853 I'amiral 853 àdl'amiral

"

1055 1055

853 I'anglaise853 àdl'anglaise 853 I'arl6sienne853 àil'arlésienne 56P aspic aspic 56p I'ancienne attereaux :àdl'ancienne attereaux: 853 853

moderne 853 à la moderne 853

d la

aubergines 853 with wiili 853 853 barquettes barquettes 853

beignets 853 beignets 853 Bercy 853 853 femme 853 iàlalabonne bonne femme 853 border of fillets border of flUets 855 diplomate diplomate 855 d la bourguignonne à la bourguignonne 853 853 d la bretonne 853 à la bretonne 853 d la brochettes, brochettes, à la 853 duxelles duxeUes 853 853 cardinal cardinal 853 854 Colbert Colbert 854 854 curried curried 854 d la diplomate 854 à la diplomate 854 854 fillets fillets 854 d I'am6ricaine 854 à l'américaine 854 d I'ancienne 854 à J'ancienne 854 d I'anglaise 854 à 854 d I'armoricaine 854 à ['armoricaine 854 aspic of, d la aspic of, à la parisienne 85+5 854-5

Bercy 855

boiled 855 855 Boitelle Boi telle 855

femme

bonne àd la la bonne femme 855

855 la bordelaise 855 àd la bordelaise 855 d la bourguignonne à la bourguignonne 85s 855 d la cancalaise 855 à la cancalaise 855 cardinal 855,855p cardinal 855, la catalane 855 àd la catalane 855 with Chambertin with Chambertin 855 855 Chauchat 855,855P Chauchat 855, 855p Chivry 855 Chivry 855 cold 855-6 cold 855-6 with courgettes 856 with courgettes 856 Cr6cy 856 856 Cubat 856 Cubat 856 854P cutting 854p Daumont 856 Daumont 856 dauphine 856 dauphine 856 d la dieppoise 856 à la dieppoise 856 I'espagnole 856 ài l'espagnole 856 d la f6compoise 856 à la fécompoise 856 d la florentine 856 à la florentine 856 fried 856 fried 856 engoujons 856, cn goujons 856, 856p 856p au gratin 856 au gratin 856 grilled 856 grilled 856 d la hongroise 856 à la hongroise 856 d I'indienne 85G7 à l'indienne 856-7 857 àdlaJacques la Jacques 857 Joinville 857 Joinville 857 enjulienne 857 en j ulîenne 857 857 Marguery857

INDEX

INDEX

Marivaux 857

Marivaux 857 857 d la meunidre à Montreuil la meunière857 857 Montreuil 857857 Montrouge Montrouge 857 Mornay 857 Mornay 857 Murat 857 Murat 857 with mushrooms 857 with withmushrooms mussels 857857 with d la mussels Nantua 857 857 àdlalaNantua 857 857, normande à la normande 857, 858p d858p I'orientale 857 àOrly l'orientale 857 858 Orly with 858 oysters 858 with oysters 858 d la panetidre 858 àParmentier la panetière858 858 Parmentier 858858 d la paysanne àdlala paysanne 858858 pi6montaise àenla pilaf piémontaise 858 858 en 858858 surpilaf le plat sur le plat 855 858 poached poached princesse855 858 princesse 858 859 with red wine with red858 wine 859 Riche Riche 858 858,858p Richelieu Richelieu 858, 858p Saint-Germain 858 Saint-Germain 858 with shrimps 858 with shrimps skinning 854p858 skinning 854p Sylvette 858 Sylvette 858859 en torsade en torsade 859 859 d la trouvillaise à la la v6nitienne trouvillaise 859 859 d àV6ron la vénitienne 859 859 Véron 859 Victoria 859 Victoria with white859 wine 859 with white wine Walewska 859 859 859 flanWalewska d la normande 379 à la normande 379 dflan la florentine 859 à la florentine 859 fondants d la Nantua fondants à la Nantua 478 478 859 fried fried 859 fritters 859 fritters 859 859 golden golden gratin859 au 859-60 au gratin grilled 860859-60 grilled 860 860 gulyas gulyas 860de vin 860 marchand de vin 860 dmarchand la marinidre 860 à la marinière 860 en matelote d la à la en matelote860 normande normande d860 mayonnaise mayonnaise à I'ancienne 581 i lal'ancienne m6nagdre581 860 ménagère860 860 dàlalameunidre à la meunière 860 meunidre Mont-Brv meuniére Mont-Bry 860 860 Montreuil 860 Montreuil Mornay 860860 Mornay860 860 mousse mousse 860 with mushrooms 860 mushrooms 860 d with la Nantua 860 à la Nantua 860

d la nigoise 860 à la niçoise 860 Nobl 860 Noël 860 d la normande 861 à la normande 861 pdt6 861 pâté 861 paupiettes 861 paupiettes 861 Mont-Bry 861,861p Mont-Bry 861, 861p d la nissarde 861 à la nissarde 861 Paillard 861 Paillard 861 pavb 676 pavé 676 d la paysanne 861 àpie la paysanne 861 692 pie 692 pilaf 861 pilaf 861 sur le plat 861-2 sur le plat 861-2 poached, various poached, various sauces 862 sauces 862 d la portugaise 862 à la portugaise 862 d la provengale 862 àpur6e la provençale 862 862 purée 862 quenelles 862 quenelles 862 with red wine 862 with red wine 862 Richelieu 862 Richelieu 862 ring, d la normande ring, à la normande 135, l35p 135,135p risotto 862 risotto 862 d la russe 861 à la russe 861 Saint-Germain 862 Saint-Germain 862 scallop shells of 862 scallop shells of 862 with shrimps 962 with shrimps 862 skinning 852p skinning 852p tartlets 853 tartlets 853 timbale d I'am6ricaine timbale à l'américaine 926 926 timbale of fillets: d tim baie of flllets: à l'ancienne 858-9 l'ancienne 858-9 Grimaldi 859 Grimaldi 859 d la normande 859 à la normande 859 Victoria 859 Victoria 859 turban of fillets 859 turban of fillets 859 vol-au-vent of fillets vol -au-vent of fil lets 859 859 with white wine with white wine 862 862 solilem (solimene) 862 solilem (solimene) 862 Solomon's seal 862 Solomon's seal 862 Solyanka 888 Solyanka 888 sommelier 862 sommelier 862 sorb-apple 862,863p sorb-apple 862, 863p sorbets 841-2 sorbets 841-2 sorghum 862 sorghum 862 sorrel 862 sorrel 862 braised 863 braised 863 chiffonnade 240,863 chiffonnade 240,863 with cream 863 with cream 863 mixed 240 mixed 240 fondue 386 fondue 386 fritters 395 fritters 395 omelette 355 omelette 355 d la verduridre 355 à la verdurière 355 preserved 863 preserved 863 pur6e 863 purée 863 sot-l'y-laisse 863 sot-l'y-laisse 863 soubise 863 soubise 863 1056

1056

soubise,à dla 394 la 394 soubise, sou-fassum863 863 sou-fassum soufl6s863 863 soufflès almond866 866 almond ambassadrice 866 ambassadrice 866 I'am6ricaine486 486 à dl'américaine apple 42,866 apple 42, 866 Russian866 866 Russian apricot 866 apricot 866 aubergine63 63 aubergine hongroise 63 63 àdlalahongroise aupannesan 63 au parmesan 63 486 àd.I'aurore l'aurore 486 banana 76 76 banana brains863 863 brains chanoinesse 863 863 àdlala chanoinesse calf's liver liver 644,863 644, 863 calf's calf's sweetbreads sweetbreads calf's 646-7 646--7 carrot 190 190 carrot cauliflower 196 196 cauliflower cheese 863-4, 8634,864p cheese 864p cherry 217, 217,866 cherry 866 Montmorency 217 217 Montmorency chestnut 218,864 218,864 chestnut soubise 864 864 soubise sweet 218 218 sweet chicken 236, 236.864 chicken 864 liver 863 863 liver la mirepoix d 864 à la mirepoix 864 with with truffies truffles 864 864 chicory 239,864 chicory 239, 864 with with Parmesan Parmesan 864 864 chocolate chocolate 866 866 coffee coffee 866,867p 866, 867p crayfish: crayfish: dà la la Nantua Nantua 486 486 dà la la normande normande 864 864 with with Parmesan Parmesan 486 486 cream-based cream-based 865 865 Curagao Curaçao 866 866 endive endive 360 360 with with Parmesan Parmesan 360 360 fish fish 864 864 foie foie gras gras 383 383 fruit-based fruit-based 865-6 865-6 fruit: fruit: mixture mixture 594 594 game game 864 864 dàlalaP6rigueux Périgueux 864 864 ham ham 864 864 d.la à lastrasbourgeoise strasbourgeoise 864 864 hare hare 449 449 hazelnut hazelnut 866 866 dàlalahongroise hongroise864 864 iced iced495 495 Jerusalem JerusaJemartichoke artichoke 520,964 520,864 lemon lemon866 866 lettuce lettuce554,864 554,864 liqueur-flavoured liqueur-flavoured866 866

lobster565,864 565,864 lobster mandarin866 866 mandarin meat864 864 meat Mont-Bry866 866 Mont-Bry mushroom 604 604 mushroom omelette357 357 omelette orange653,866 653,866 orange oyster661 661 oyster cancalaise486 486 àdlalacancalaise Palmyra866 866 Palmyra Parmesan 864 864 Parmesan partridge669 669 partridge peach679, 679,866 peach 866 pear 682, 682,866 pear 866 plum Lorraine Lorraine 708 708 plum potato 864 864 potato with cheese cheese 864 864 with hongroise 864 864 àd lala hongroise praline 866 866 praline princesse 486 la princesse 486 àd la pumpkin 745 745 pumpkin Rothschild 866 866 Rothschild Rouen duckling duckling 326 326 Rouen savoury 863-5 863-5 savoury shrimp 864 864 shrimp small 486 small roe 486 soft roe spinach 865, 865,865p spinach 865p d à la florentine florentine 865 lobster spiny lobs ter 865 strawberry strawberry 866 sweet sweet 865-6 865-6 sweetbreads 865 sweet sweet potato potato 864,911 864,911 tea tea 866 866 tomato tomato 865,928 truffie tfume 865,939 865, 939 with Parmesan 865 865 with Parmesan turnip turnip 945 945 vanilla vanilla 866 866 vegetable vegetable 865 865 violet violet 866 866 walnut walnut 866 866 woodcock woodcock l00l 1001 soupe soupe 866 866 aigo aïgo bouido bouïdodàlala m6nagdre ménagère 882 882 aigo aïgobouido bouïdowith with poachedeggs poached eggs 882 882 aigo aïgodàlalam6nagdre ménagère 881 88\ aigo-saou aïgo-saou 881 881 albigeoise albigeoise 882 882 Soupir Soupirde deNonne Nonne 888 888 soup soupladle ladle888 888 soups soups868 868 Andalusian Andalusian879 879 Arles Arles882 882 artichoke: artichoke:cream creamofof 8734 873-4 velout6 velouté878 878

INDEX

INDEX

asparagus:cream creamofof asparagus: 874 874 cream creamof (white), called calledArgenteuil Argenteuil 874 874 velout6 velouté878 878 creamof of874 874 barley, cream bean:cream creamof of874 874 bean: pur6e of of875 875 beer beer 118,883,884p 118,883,884p : dàI'allemande beetroot: J'allemande beetroot 883 883 russe 883 883 dàlalarusse bijane 124 124 bijane bonnefemme femme 882 882 dàlalabonne bougps u v ''''l'V ,"'.., 138 i 38 bouillon bo'ullI'on de de noce noce (wedding) (wedding) 140 140 bread for 146 146 breadfor Brussels sProuts, sprouts, Pur6e Brussels of of 875 875 buttermilk buttermilk 170 170 with with cabbage cabbage and and miques miques 882 882 carrot, pur6e purée of, called ca lied carrot, Cr6cy 875 875

cauliflower, Pur6e of, called DubarrY 875 874 cream celery:: creamof pur6e of of 875 velout6 velouté 878 207 fouras 207 chaudr6e de fouras chaudrée cheese 882 cheese 884-5 cherry cherry 884-5 875 of 875 chestnut, Pur6e of chestnut, 236 of 236 cream of chicken: cream chicken: 885 English 885 English pur6e of, ol àd lala purée 875-6 reine 875-6 reine 878-9 velout6 878-9 velouté 874 of 874 cream of chicory:: cream pur6e of 876 of 876 artichoke, Chinese artichoke, 874 of874 creamof cream 885 Chotodriec885 Cholodriec with "vegetables clam with clam ... J';...."v,,~;:) 885 885 and clarifying and darifying 296 enriching 296 enrÎching 881-3 classical 881-3 c1assÎcal 868-70 clear868-70 clear 885 cock-a-leekie885 cock-a~leekie 876 crab, pur6eofof876 874 creamofof874 crayfish: : cream pur6eofof876 876 879 velout6879 velouté 873-5 cream873-5 cream Dublin Bayprawn Dublin Prawn 879 velout6879 velouté 874 endive: cream ofof874 endive:cream 879 velout6879 velouté

i àlalafarine farine882 882

fish, fish,with withvermicelli vermicellii àlala marseillaise marseillaise882 882 flour flour888 888 frog velout6 veloutéd àlala sicilienne "'v'Uv,,,, .....879 879 game: game:pur6e 876 876 velout6 velouté879 879 garden gardencress, cress,Pur6e purée 876 876 provengale la garlic i garlic à la provençale 882 882 gulyas gulyas 885,885P 885,885p gumbo gumbo 885 885 hare hare 885 885 Hungarian, with witbliver liver 886 dumplings dumplings 886 international international 883-8 883-8 jambe de debois bois 517 517 Jerusalem Iprl1"~llpm artichoke: artichoke: cream cream of of 874 874 pur6e purée of of 876 876 khlodnik khlodnik 524 524 leek, leck, cream cream of of 874, 874, 874p 874p lentil, lentil, pur6e purée of, of, dà la la Conti Conti 876 876 lettuce: lettuce: cream cream of of 874 874 pur6e purée of of 876 876 velout6 velouté 879 879 Lithuanian Lîthuanian 886 886 886 of 886 [ver, pur6e of Liver,

Livonian, with

klyotski

886

of 874 874 cream of lobster: cream lobster: pur6e of of 876 876 879 velout6 879 velouté 571 magistdres 571 Hla~rDlCll;;;;) 874 of 874 cream of marrow, cream marrow, and balls and meat balls with meat with 505p vermicelli 505p vermicelli 888 tripe 888 Milanaise tripe Milanaise 886 mille'fanti 886 mille-fanti 886,886P minestrone 886, minestrone 886p 886-7 mock-turtle 886-7 mock-turtle 887 mulligatawnY 887 mulligalawny of creamof mushroom: crearn mushroom: 874 874 Pierre-levelout6 Pierre-Ievelouté grand879 879 grand 607 mussel607 musse! grecque mutton,à dlalagrecque mutton, 887 887 874 creamofof874 nettle,cream neule, 628 oatmeal628 oatmeal 628,874 creamofof628, cream 874 628 auaunaturel naturel 628 874 creamofof874 occa,cream occa, 885 okra885 okra 650 olla-podrida650 olla-podrida 882,883p onion882, onion 883p 882 gratin6e882 oniongratinée onion

657 ouka ouka 657 clear 887 oxtail: oxtail: clear 887

thick

887

thick 887 661,880-l oyster oysler 661, 880-1 with okra 887 with okra 887 velout6 879 velouté 879 partridge velout6 879 velouté 879 pea (fresh), pur6e (fresh), Saint-Germain 876, 877p 877p of pea (split). of 876 876 P6rigord 'sobronade' Périgord 'sobronade' 882 882 pistou 704,887 pistou 887 Portuguese 881 Portuguese 881 potato, pur6e potato, purée Parmentier 877,877p Parmentier 877, puchero 887 puchero 887 pumpkin, pur6e of pumpkin, of 877-8 877-8 pur6e 875-8 875-8 Conti d la brunoise Conti à la brunoise 876 876 Conti d la julienne Conti à la julienne 876 876 876 Cr6cy aux aux Perles 876 Cr6cy with rice 876 with rice 876 purslane, pur6e of 878 purslane, purée of 878 124 redcurrant redcurrant 124 red haricot bean, Pur6e red haricot bean, of, called d la Cond6 of, called à la 87s 875 regional 881-3 regional 881-3 rice, cream of 874 cream of 874 792 salep 792 843 shrimp 843 cream of 874 cream of 874 velout6 879 velouté 879 smelt velout6 879 smelt velouté 879 sobronade 851 sobronade 851 sourcream 888 sour cream 888 special 879-81 879-81 spelt 883 spelt 883 spinach: cream of 874, spinach: cream of 874, 875P 875p velout6 879 velouté 879 spiny lobster: cream of lobster: cream of 875 puree of 878 of 878 velout6 879 velouté 879 swallows'nest 910 swal!ows' neSl 910 sweet Potato, Pur6e of sweel potato, of

pea (split), pur6es

877

877 sweet sour 888 sweet sour 888 thick 873-81 thick 873--81 tomato,purée Pur6eofof tomato, 878,878p 878, 878p pur6e d la turnip,purée à la Freneuse 878 Freneuse 878 888 turtle turtle 888 1057 1057

veal with herbs 888 veal with herbs 888 873,878-9 velout6 velouté 873, 878-9 of watercress, cream watercress, cream of 87s 875 haricot bean, white white of, haricot calledbean, pur6e purée of, called 875 Soissonnaise Soissonnaise 875 d la bretonne whiting whiting à la bretonne 883,884p 883,884p 889 souvarov souvarov 889 d souvarov (souvorow), souvarov la 889 (souvorow), à la 889 sow-thistle 889,889P sow-thistle889,889P soyabean soya 889 889, 889p curdbean curd 889 889 extract extract 889889 meat meat 889 889 milk milk 889 (extract) 889 sauce sauce (cxtract) 889 889 spaghetti spaghetti 889 5l3P alla bolognese alla 51 croustades i la croustades 476 napolitaineà la ..... ~'v .. ~ .. ,,'''' 476 d la napolitaine 889 àla cookerY 510889 Spain: . cookery 5iO 889 sparklet sparklet 889 890 speculos 890883 spelt: soup 890 883

Spetdi

spice cake 179 spice cake 179 spices 890 spices 890 fine 890 fine 390 four 890 four 390 890 mixed mixed 890890 spicy spicy 890 890,890P spidercrab spider cra b 890 spikenard 890, 890p ~I-'''I\.\'''''''U 890 spinach 890-1,89lP 890-1, 891p d I'anglaise 891 'li 'f;' "'l,,,,", 891140 bouillabaisse v'"" ...... av.'"''',''' 140 148 btddes brèdes 148891 in butter in butter d891 la florentine canap6s canapés à la florentine 472

472 cream 891 in incroquettes cream 891891 gratin 891 crottes au 891 dartois i la florentine 477

flan i la florentine 378 flan à la florentine 378 395-6 fritters fritters 395-6 479 d la florentine àvegetarian, la florentined la 479 àla 480 romaine 480 gratin 891 auromaine auingratin gravy 89\ 891 În gravy 89l 168 greenbutter butter 168 d la romaine loaves à la romaine s59-60 559--60 in noisette butter 891 noisette butter 891 inomelette 355 omelette 355

INDEX d la florentine 353 à la florentine pancakes 891 353

cream of 875 stonecrop 901 cream of 875 velout6 879 stone-curlew 901,901p pancakes 891 pur6e 748 velouté 879894 on the spit stopper 901 purée stopper 901 on the spit 894 salad748 891 stew 894 stove, kitchen 901, 90lp salad 891865,865p Idtchen 901, 90lp stew soufl6 with894 various sauces 894 stove, strainer 901,901p soufflé with vadous sauces 894 strainer 90 l, 901 P d la 865,865p florentine 865 spirits 894-5 straining bag 902 à la florentine 894-5 298 902 soup: cream of 865 874. spit roasting strasbourgeoise, ri la 4lg : cream of 874, à la 418 875p spits 895-6,895p strawberries 902,902p 902.902p velout6 879 turnspit 946 Bavarian cream 9l 879 Bavarian cream 91 subrics 891 spleen 896 cardinal 902 subrics 891 cardinal 902 d la florentine 486 spondias 896 in Champagne 902 à la sugar florentine with 891 486 spongecakes 896 compote 260,902 with sugar 891 sponge cakes 896 talmouses 487 almond sandwich cake Cond6 902 talmouses 487 almond sandwich cake spinach, giant Mexican 896 andcream 902 spinach, Mexican 896 and cream 902 89r batters for 320 Czaina902 902 891 Czarina batters for 320 spinach, wild 891 fingers 896,896p, g97p fondant icing 498 ggl-2 wild 891 fingers 896p, 897p fondant 498 spiny lobster 465, Italian 896, sandwich cake fritters 392 lobster 465, 892 891-2 ltalian fritters 397 d I'am6ricaine 896_7sandwich cake ice 492 àaspic l'américaine 896-7 sandwich ice 492 58,892 892 punch cakes mixture902-3 902-3 58,892 mixture punch sandwich cakes bisque 878 897 ri I'imp6ratrice 903 897 903 boiled, 878 with various sandwich cake manqu6 jam 517 boiled, sandwich cake sauceswith 892 various 897 with 892 with liqueurs 903 897 897,897p dsauces la bordelaise 892 savoy d la maltaise 903 àd la savoy 897, à la maltaise 903 la bordelaise bourgeoise892 892 spooms 495 omelette 357 àbutter la bourgeoise 892 omelette 357 spooms 495 170,892 spoons 897 pastejelly 520 butter 170, 892 520 spoons 897 cardinal 892 sprats 468,989 pulp for ices 903 cardinal 892 sprats 468,989 903 cassolettes 473 spraygun 512 ratafia 903 cassolettes 473 spray collops: d I'andalouse sprucegun beer512 898 sauce 827 gg2,gg2p colIops: à l'andalouse spruce beer 898 sauce 827 'spurs of Bacchus' 89g souffi6 866 892, soufflé 'spurs of Bacchus' 898 866 d la 892p parisienne 892, squab, see pigeon tart 918 à 893p la 892, tart 918 pigeon squash see 898,898p dl'allemande 9t7 squashsee 898, 898p à l'allemande 917 coquilles of 893 squid, calamary tartlets 919 tartlets 919 squid, see calamary in court-bouillon 893 squill-fish 898 with various dessert in court-bouillon 893 squill-fish 898 with various dessert incream 893 squirrel 898 wines 903 in crcam 893 wines 903 croquettes 475,893 stalk 898898 strawberry spinach, see stalk 898 898,898p curried 893 475,893 see Stamppot Swiss chard 893 SwÎss chard cutting 892p star anise 69-70,69p, g9g strawberry tomato 903 strawberry tomato 903 demi-deuil 893 starch 898 compote 903 gratin 903 au 893 starling 804,898 glac6 in caramel 903 au gratin grilled caramel 903 893893 star of Bethlehem 898 glace in fondant icing grilled 893 893 star 898 kromeskies steeping 898 903 kromeskîes 581 893 steeping 898 903 mayonnaise steerin 898 jam 903 steerin 898 903 Mornay 893 581 '''''''''''''"''"" sterilise 899 syrup 903 893 893 syrup 903 sterilise 899 d la moscovite sterlet 899 straw-case 902 à la moscovite 893 stra w-case 902 sterlet 899 mousse and stickleback 899 straws, see allumettes mousse and 893 stickleback 899 straws, see allumettes mousseline stockfish 899 Stritzel 903 mousseline stockfish 899 899 Stritzel 903 d la nage 893 893 i la nigoise stromateus nage 893 à la niçoise 899 stromaleus 904,904p 904,904p i àlalanigoise 8934 stocks 899 Strudel 904 àla 893-4 Strudel 904 stocks 899 omelette 355 clarifying and stuff, to 9M .. l''·!f''' 355 894 to 904 d''la....'parisienne enriching and 296 stuffings, see forcemeats 894 enriching 296 patties 483 .:>LUHUj,5"', see forcemeats fish 899 sturgeon 9M,904p fish sturgeon 904,904p d I'am6ricaine 483 with899 red wine 899 d la Brimont 904 l'américaine 483 pie à692 with red wine 899 à ta Brimont 904 game 899 in Champagne pilaf 692 game 899 in Champagne904 904 894 light brown 899-900 curried 904 curried 904 light brown 899-900 risotto894 894 meat 868-9 fillets Boris 904 meat 868-9 fiHets Boris 904 la russe894 d risotto 894 tomato veal 900 fricandeau: d la à la russe 894 tomato veal 900 salad 790,894 veal 900 hongroise 904 salad 790, veal 900 900 salpicon 800,894 801 white aujus salpicon white 900 au 904-5 soufl6 865 800,801 white poultry 900 with white poultry 900 soufflé 865 withsorrel sorre!905 905 d I'am6ricaine 486 Stollen 900,900p steaksincream 905 l'américaine 486 Stollen 900, 900p steaks in cream 905 soupà 878 stomach 901 subrics 486,905 stomach 901 soup 878 subrics 486,905 1058

1058

beefà rilalaménagère m6nagdre905 905 beef brain:à dl'italienne I'italienne486 4g6 brain: andbonc-marrow bone-marrow and 486 486 endive360 360 endive florentine486 486 à dlalaflorentine foiegras gras905 905 foie gooseIiver liver486 486 rilalaménagère m6nagdre486 486 potato730,905 730,905 patato poultryliver liver486 486 poultry rice776 776 rice pi6montaise487 4g7 àdlalapiémontaise semolina 487,838 semolina 838 spinach891 891 spinach sweetbread 487 487 sweetbread and bone-marrow bone-marrow and 486 486 suc905 905 suc ofmeat 905 905 ofmeat suc6es 905 905 sucées su6doise 905 905 suédoise sugar 905-8 905-8 sugar anise 908 908 anise aniseed-flavoured 31 3l aniseed-ftavoured barley 85 85 barley boiling 907 902 boiling cinnamon 908 cinnarnon clove 908 908 c10ve flavoured flavoured 908 ginger 908 ginger 908 lemon lemon peel 908 908 manufacture in in lTth 17th century century 905p 905p model model in in 906p 906p orange orange 908 908 orangeflower orange ftowe( 908 908 orangepeel 908 908 perfumed 908 pulled: pulled: paniers paniers 664 664 syrup syrupprepared cold cold 907_8 907-8 vanilla vanilla 908,952 908, 952 sugar sugarpalm palm 46 46 sultanas sultanas 434 434 sultane sultane 908 908 sultane, 908 sultane,dàlala 419, 419,908 sultan-hen sultan-hen908 908 summer summersnipe snipe908 908 sumptuousness sumptuousness908 908 sundaes, sundaes,Jee seecoupes coupes sundew sundew909 909 sunflower sunftower909 909 superstitions su perstitionsofofthe thetable ta ble 909-10 909-JO support 910 910 supr6mes 910 910 Suresnes Suresnes910 910 swallow swaHow910 910 swallows'nests swallows' nests622-3. 622-3,

623p

INDEX

INDEX

consomm6 consomméwith with870 870 soup sour910 910 swan910-ll 910-11 swan 91 l swede911 swede Sweden:cookery 509-10 509-10 Sweden: I sweetbreads 9l911 sweetbreads attereaux 470 470 attereaux brochettes 472 472 brochettes calves' 181 181 calves' dàl'anversoise l'anversoise 644 644 attereaux attereauxVilleroi Villeroi 60 60 dla àlabanquidre 644 644 braised in brown

stock 644 braised braised in in white white stock stock 644 644 Clamaft Clamart 644 644 dà la la fermidre fermière 646 646 iàlala financidre financière 646 646 fritters friUers 396 396 grilled, grilled, with with various various garnishes garnîshes 646 646 dà la la japonaise japonaise 646 646 ià lala jardinidre jardinière 646 646 dà la la macedoine macédoine 646 646 dà la Nantua 646 la p6rigourdine d àla 646 pie àd I'ancienne l'ancienne 693 poached poached 646 po6l6 646 princesse 646 nR6gence • ...,~,...,'l\_'-' 646 646 roast 646 roast 646-7 souffi6 646-7 soufflé 647 Talleyrand 647 Toulouse Toulouse (toulousaine) 647 647 (toulousaine) pur6es various purées with various with 646 646 various with various with 647 vegetables 647 vegetables 473 cassolettes 473 cassolettes ofcalves': escalopes of ...,,,\...alV!JV" calves': àd 644,645P I'ancienne ,,""'~1\...'J11"" 644, breadcrumbs inin breadcrumbs 644 5 644-5 645 butter 645 ininbutter allemande fried,ininallemande 645 sauce645 sauce 645 au gratin645 au 645 àdl'italienne645 645 mar6chale645 àdlalamaréchale 645 milanaise645 àdlalamilanaise 645 Rossini645 Rossini Saint-Germain Saint-Germain 64s4 645-6 pastrYcase case servedininpastry served 645p 645p 646, withtrolles trufres646, with 646P 646p

d la hollandaise 912 à la hollandaise 912 d àI'italienne l'italienne912 9t2 d la lyonnaise 912

Villeroi Villeroi646 646 fritots fritots478 478 fritters fritters 396,479 396,479

àla

hash hash451 451 lambs' lambs' 634 634 attereaux attereauxVilleroi Villeroi 60,60p 60,60p fritters fritters 396 396 hot hotpit6 pâtédàI'ancienne l'ancienne 634 634 pie 693 693 pilaf pilaf 634 634 scallop shells shellsof of 486 486 Villeroi Villeroi 634P vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, with with trufles truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms 63zt-5 634-5 pvbe 746 746 salpicon salpicon 801 801 Cussy Cussy 801 801 scallop scallop shells shells 486 486 soufl6 soufflé 865 865 subrics subrics 486,487 486,487 sweet C-rcily Cecily 217 217 sweetcorn sweetcorn (corn-on-the(corn-on-thecob\ 275,275p cob) 275, 275p d à la la ffichamel béchamel 275 275 boiled boiled 275 275 bread bread 275 275 275 in butter 275 in butter 275 incream cream 275 in 736 fteezing 736 gnlled 275 355 omelette 355 omelette with chîcken chicken suso with en suso en giblets 275--6 275-6 giblets 911 sweeten 911 sweeten potato 911 911 sweet potato sweet 911 baked(injackets) baked (in jackets) 911 911 boiledwithhoney boiled with honey 911 911 àdlacrdme la crème 911 9l I croquettes 911 croquettes 9ll fried 911 fried 9l I au gratin 91l (Henri) ài I'imp6riale (Henri) 9ll 911 355 omelette 355 omelette 7$,9ll pudding 744, pudding 91 t pur6e911 9ll 911 salad911 salad 9l I souffi6 864,911 877 of877 soup, pureeof stewed 9ll 1 911 swift911 swift 9l I chard911 Swisschard Swiss 9ll à dlab6chamel la béchamel 911 911 blanc911 auaublanc 9ll buttered911 buttered 9ll-12 inincream cream 911-12 912 auau gratin912 gravy912 912 iningravy

912

912 dlamilanaise àla 912 912 dàlalamoelle moelle 912

Mornay Mornay 912 912

d la polonaise 912 à la polonaise 912 Swiss Swissroll912,912p roll 912, 91

Switzerland: Switzerland:cookery cookery I 510-l 510-11 swizzle swizzIestick stick 912 912 swordfish swordfish 912 912 syringe 912 912 syrup syrup 912 912 almond almond 912 912 forbabas for babas 69 69 blackcurrant blackcurrant 912 912 cherry cherry 912 912 citric cÎtric acrd acid 912 912 coffee coffee 913 913 gooseberry gooseberry 912 912 gum gum 913 913 lemon 551 lernon 551 mulberry mulberry 912 911 orange orange 913 913 orgeat orgeat 655,913 655,913 plain plain 913 913 raspberry raspberry 912 912

tangerines 915 tangerines 915 flan 918-19 flan 918-19 397 fritters fritters 397 ice 492 Îce 492 iced 496,915 iced 496, 915 liqueur 556 556 soufl6 pudding 742 vuo..'U"'>