The French Laundry Cookbook

THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY COOKBOOK

....'!!!!!!o. _ ...::�. THOMAS

KELLER

$50.00 The French Laundry Cookbook Thoma. KeUar with Susl. H.Uer and Michael Ruhlman

Photograph.

by Deborah Jane.

Thomas Keller, chef/proprietor of the French Laundry In the Napa Volley-"the most exciting place to eat in the United States/ wrote Ruth Reichl in The New York Times-is a wizard, a purist, a man obsessed with getting it right. And this, his first cookbook, is every bit as sotisfying 05 a French Laundry meal itself: a series of small, Impeccable, highly refined, intensely focused courses. Most dazzling is how simple Keller's methods are: squeegeeing the moisture from the skin on fish so it sautes beautjfully; poochlng eggs In a deep pot of water for perfect shope; the initiol steeping in the shell that makes cooking raw lobster out of the shell a cinch; using vinegar as a flavor enhancer; the repeated washing of bones for stock for the cleanest, clearest tastes.

From innovative soup techniques, to the proper way to cook green vegetables, to secrets of great fish cookery, to the creation of breathtaking desserts; from beurre monte to foie gras au torchon, to 0 wild and thoroughly unexpected toke on coffee and doughnuts, The

French Laundry Cookbook captures,

through recipes, essays, profiles, and extraordinary photography, one of America's great restaurants, its great chef, and the food that makes both unique.

One hundred and fifty superlative recipes are exact recipes from the French Laundry kitchen­ no shortcuts have been taken, no critical steps ignored, all have been thoroughly tested in home kitchens. If you can't get to the French Laundry, you can now re-create at home the very experience the Wine Spectator described as "as close to dining perfection as it gets."

THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY

COOKBOOK

Copyrlghl C 1999 by Thom•• Keller Deborah Jones Pholographs eopyrlghl C 1999 by All rights reserved. electronically. o� by any means. No porrion of Ihl. book my be reproduced-mechanically. ion or the publisher. permiss written without pylngg Includin pholoco

Published In 1999 by Arli"n n Division o(Workmnn Publishing,lnc.

708 8ro.dw.y New York. N.Y. 10003 www.workrnnllh.cb.com l.ihrnry ofCongrc811 Catnloging-in Publication Dntn Keller.Thomas. The French Lnundry Cookhook/hyThomns Keller wilh Susie Heller nnd Michnel Ruhlman: photographs by Dehornh Joncs. p.

CIIl.

ISBN 1-57965-126-7 I. Cookery. French. 2. French L.1llllllry (Resl,u""II) I. lIelier. Susie. II. nuhlm.n. Mieh.el. 1963-111. Tille.

TX719.K35 1999 641.5'09794' 19-
T h e F r e n c h l a u n d r y Cookboo k

16

I I

The way to keep the experience fresh is not by adding more flavors.

Veronique? Sale with grapes. A t the restaurant. I serve a sale dish with

but rather by focUSing more on specific flavors. either by making them

a little marc structure to it. I make a stuffing of sultana raisins (dried

more intense than the foods from wruch they come. or by varying the

grapes) and brioche croutons. fold the sale around it to make a kind of

preparation technique.

package. and serve it with a classic gla�age. It still has the integrity of

\Vhen I decide to make liver and onions. for instance. I might roast

sale Veronique. but with a modern interpretation.

a whole foie gr3S and senre it with four different onion preparations­

To achieve the effects I want, I serve courses that are small relative

canCit. roasted. glazed red. and glazed white. Or I might senre a calfs

to portions you'll find at most restaurants. But small is not the point.

liver with just two of those preparations. The point is to isolate and

The point is this: For every course. there is a perfect quantity. Some

enhance flavors. not confuse them. One lamb course might include five

courses must be small because of what they are: A quaU egg is small. One

different lamb preparations. another might be simply a lamb chop with

bite is enough; two eggs would be redundant. The scallops we get are

lamb sweetbreads.

about three ounces-n :arly as big as a filet mignon. In a meal of five to

When I combine flavors. I do so in traditional ways. Sometimes that

ten courses. you don't need more than one scallop.

lamb is served with eggplant and mint-a combination verging on

With foie gras. though. I serve just slightly too much of it. because I

cliche. But I roast the eggplant with butter until it is a virtual fondue. and

want people to know what foie gras is all about. I go overboard 'with

I infuse the mint into a deep emerald oil.

truffles and caviar too. so that people who have perhaps only eaten

My favorite dishes for inspiration are traditional ones like quiche lorraine. daube of beef. short ribs. sale Veronique. What is sale

truffles in stingy quantities can taste them and say. "Oh, now I understand.

..

Canapes

1S

""hite

Truffle O i l-Infused C u s t u l'ds w i t h Blnele 'rl'uftlc Ragout

� � O

--------- -------

CHIVE

CHIPS

I large russet potato

2

teaspoons Clarified Butter (page

125),

Kosher salt

About

20 chive tips {I '11 inches long)

melted

-------- ----

--------- -- ---

CUSTARDS

T R U f f L E RAGOUT

8 large eggs (with the poper egg carton)

IIJ cup Veal Stock (page 222)

2/J cup milk

1112 teaspoons finely minced block truffle

2/J cup heo� cream 1 % tablespoons white truffle all

(from a whole truffle, pieces, or peelings) Few drops of while wIne vinegar

Kosher salt

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

Freshly ground white pepper

112 teaspoon while truffle oil Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

�Inll�' Idens IU'O crcowd shnp)y rl'Olll

Ihe need 10 Inl\lstel': nnd the field In the CI'cntC

h'niehc n1u)<es nl1 thcse co101's llnd

rlnvors ond tCXHII'CS spo l·ldc.

impurities that gather in the bottom oC the China cap.) Tilt the pot as

when ready to usc. defrost the consomme and bring to a boil. then cool

necessary to reach as much clear stock as possible. Leave behind any

as above and allow to re-gel in the refrigerator,

that doesn't look clear and discard it along with the raCt. You should have

FOR THE

about 2 quarts of consomme.

'\Tap. Place it ina resealable plastic bag, pressingout any air from the bag.

L O B S T E R C O R A L (O P T I O N A L)

Wrap the coral in plastic

You will be able to see. floating on top, any fat remaining in the

and seal the bagwell. Submerge it in boiling water and cook the coral until

consomme. Gently lay a paper towel on top oC the liquid and quickly

it has turned bright red (you are making hard-boilcd eggs!). Remove the

glide it over the surface. Discard the towel and repeat several more times

coral from the bag and refrigerate it for an hour. or until it is cold.

until there is no remaining Cat (which could cloud the consomme).

Grate or grind the coral in a mini-blender or grinder. Store the

Line a chinois with a clean towel or cheesecloth and strain the

ground coral in the refrigerator until ready to usc, or forup to I day. or

consomme one last time into a pot. Bring it to a simmer and reduce the

wrap well and freelc for up to several months. (The cooked coral can

consomme to I quart. Pour l Oto a container.

be frolcn as a solid piece and then grated while still frolen when ready

Squeeze the gelatin sheets dry and stir them into the hal consomme

to use.) Break up the cold consomme with a spoon and place

until completely dissolved. Set in a larger container oC icc and water and

TO CO M P L E T E :

let cool to room tcmperature. stirring occasionally. then refrigerate.

about 1/. cup in each serving cup or bowl. Top each serving of consomme

covered. for several hours, or overnight. to gel . The consomme will keep

with a quenelle (see page 274), or small oval scoop. of whipped cr(!me

refrigerated Cor up to 3 days (after 3 days. it can be reboiled and kept for

fraiche and sprinkle ,'lith the brunoise and. if using, grated lobster coral.

I to 2 more days). For longer storage. it can be frozen for up to 1 month:

"' A le t s 1 6 H R V I N G S ( 4 c u p s )

C o n o ph

33

34

T h e Fre n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

C l'CO Ill.Y

M a i n e Lobsler B l'Olh

Gazpacho

114 cup conolo oil

3 10bsler bodies

1 cup chopped red onIons

(12 Ounces tOlal, see page 1 24), cut into quarters

1 cup chopped green bell pepper

1 112 cups chopped tomatoes

1 cup chopped English cucumber

1/2 cup chopped corrals

1 cup peeled and chopped tomatoes

1 bunch tarragon (1/2 ounce)

1 % teaspoons chopped garlic

2 cups heavy cream

1 112 teospoons kosher salt

l obsters and cream is a luxurious combination. intensified here in the L form of a canape. soup. 1 froth the broth before serving it. When you arc preparing lobsters. save the bodies to make this broth

1/.. teaspoon cayenne 11" cup tomoto paste 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

114 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

(freeze them if need be for future use). This is a very rich soup. best

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

served in small portions.

3 cups tomato luice Sprig of thyme

Heat the oil in a large rondeau. or deep straight-sided braising pan. Add

Balsamic Gloze (poge 23B), in a squeeze boHle

the lobster shells and scar over medium-high heat for I to 2 minUles per side. until they turn red. (If your pot is not big enough to accomplish this easily. do it in two batches.) Add the tomatoes. carrots. and

D

on't always think of gazpacho as soup. Think of it as a sauce. Think of it hot as well as cold. It goes beautifully with grilled chicken or

tarragon. cover the shells and vegetables with water. and bring to a boil.

fish. Gazpacho

Skim off any impurities that rise to the top. Reduce the heat and simmer

Laundry. garnished with balsamic glaze. or as a sauce with the Salad of

over low heal for 1 hour. Strain the stock through a large strainer or a

Globe Artlchokcs with Garden Herbs and Gazpacho (page 62). It can

China cap (see page 73). smashing the lobster bodies with a wooden

also be served

spoon to extract all the liquid. and then strain again through a chinois

couldn't bc easier; it achieves its powerful flavor simply by overnight

(see page 73) into a clean saucepan.

maceration. which is the only "cooking" involved.

IS

m

served in small portions as a canape at the French

larger portions as a tradillonal cold soup. This soup

Return the strained stock to the stove and simmer until it is reduced to I cup. Add the heavy cream. return to a simmer. and cook. skimming

Mix all the ingredients except the balsamic glaze together in a bowl or

occasionally. until the broth is reduced to 2 cups. Strain through a

other container. co\'cr. and lei sit in the refrigerator overnight.

the

The next day. remove the thyme and blend all the ingredients in a

strainer. Cover and refrigerate the broth for several hours to chill. or for

blender until the gazpacho IS smooth. You will have about 2 quarts. For

up to 3 days.

a smoother tex1ure. strain the soup to yield about I quart. Refrigerate

chinois into a container. discarding any solids remaining

TO

COMPLETE

m

Place the cold broth in a heavy saucepan and whisk

thc gazpacho until ready to serve. L1dlc the cold soup into bowls and squeezc dots of

vigorously over medium heat as you reheat it. The broth will froth as you

TO

whisk in air. Pour the hot broth into demitasse cups.

balsamic glaze over the top.

PICTUIHO ON

PAG(

34

M A K l S 6 TO 8 S E RV I N G S ( 2 cu p s )

C O M P LETE

MAKES 8

TO

1 6 SERVINGS

Canaph

35

36

The French Loundry Cookbook

P u ree of E n "" j i s h Pen S o u p \\'I 1 1 1. � b

3 pounds English pem, shelled (about 3 cups)

7 quor1s water About I cup sugar

\", Il l. t e I l'u l rl c O i l o l l d POl'lncsnn C r1 8 p s • .

.

1 112 Cups kosher salt

v.. cup white truHle oil

V..c to V2 cup Vegetable Stock (page 227)

6 to 1 2 Parmesan Crisps (recipe follows>

1/4 cup water

( 1 per serving)

Kosher so[t and freshly ground white pepper

T

his soup should be served the the same day it's made. as it will oxidize. or discolor. over time. The vivid green oCthe soup results

puree and blend. (The color of the soup will lighten from the air blended

extraordinary visual impact. The success of this recipe relics on the quality of the peas. Look for small sweet peas. Taste your peas for

consistency of the soup. If it is too thick and needs more liquid. add

in

.m

sweetness to determine the alllount of sugar to add to the water (make this soup in cnrly summer when English peas arc at their peak). A Parmesan CriSp is placed on each scrvingcup as a "lid": be sure to make the crisps a size appropriate to your cups. This soup can be served hot 01' cold. but either way. I like to enrich it with white tnlffle oil. which enhances its luxurious flavor and texture.

into it. but it will return to dark green after it sits.> Chcck the either more vcgetablc stock or more waleI'. depending on how flavorful the soup is. and blend again. Add a pinch of salt. white pepper to taste. and blend again. POtlr the soup through a chinois (sec page 73). If you are serving the soup cold. stir in thc truffle oil and rcfrigerate the soup in a covered container until serving. If you are serving the soup hot. reheat gently over low heat and stir in the tnlrne oil just before serving. Serve the soup garnished with the Parmesan criSp "lids," MAKES 6

TO

1 2 SERVINGS

(AaouT

3

cups)

Place the peas in a bowl. cover them with ICC. and toss together to chill the peas (this step will help return thcir bright color).

PARM E S AN

C RIS P S

Bring the watcr to a rolling boil in a largc pot and add the sugar and salt. Lift up a slllall batch of peas with a strainer. letting the ice fall back

112 cup finely groled ParmigJono·Reggiono (from 0 moist pIece of cheese)

into the bowl. and add them to the watcr. It is important that the water returns to a boil almost immediately to kcep the peasa vivid grcen color:

These crisps can be made in any size. but it's important to usc freshly

it may not if too many peas are added. so adjust the quantity added as

grated Parmigiano- Reggiano. These are easy and have many uses-serve

necessary to maintain the boil. Cook the peas until they are lender and

them with salads or soups. or use them to hold goat cheese mousse

fully cookcd. 7 to 1 0 minutcs. depending on the quantity and quality of

(page 49)-but be sure to make cxtra. because you'lI want to eat a fcw

pcas added.

while you're making them.

While the peas cook. place a colander in a bowl of ice water. (This will make it easier to remove the chilled cooked peas from the ice.)

Preheat the oven to 325°F'. Line a baking shcet wilh a Silpat (sec Sources.

When the peas are tender. remove them to the colander to chill as

pagc 3 1 S) .

quickly as possible. Lift the colander from the icc bath and drain the peas well. Repeat this process until all the pcas arc cooked. Puree the peas in a food processor. then scrape the puree through a

Sprinkle about 2 teaspoons o f the cheese in one corner of the Silpat. Usc your fingers to spread the cheese into a 2-inch circle. Repeat with the remaining cheese: you should have about 12 rounds.

tamis (sec page 73). (If the vegetables are cooked correctly. some oCthe

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. oruntil they arc goldcn brown. Use a small

puree Will stick to the bottom of the wire screen. and you will have to

spanl1a to transfer them to paper towels. They will still be soft when they

scrape it ofr.) You should have about 2 cups of puree.

are removed but will stiffen as they cool. Store the crisps in an airtight

Place % cup vegetable stock and the water III a large blender (if your blender is smnll you may want to do this in two batches). Add the pea

container for up to 2 days. M A I( [ S A 8 0 U T T W E LV E

2 ' I N C I1 C R I S P S

Canaplh

37

Oppo,lt., r.ght

38

811.,. with Swcret Rooucrd Pc-ppo

T h e French L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

••

and Eggplont

Co�tor,

pogo

.. 1

Blin i

are an elegant way to begin a meaL They're Itght. creamy. and refined. and

they're a wonderful vehicle for garnishes. so we serve them six or seven different ways. treating them, in effect. like a luxurious potato, The blini almost dissolve on your tongue. leaving the flavors of the garnishes. One way we serve them is with roasted peppers and eggpbnt caviar. Another is with bOltarga. a bright lasty garnish. especially when paired with the rich. buttery tomato con Cit. BUI blini arc great even with just a little fresh butter. Although we make them small. there's no reason you can't make them larger.

Co flO p h

39

B U n ! w i t h Bottarga d i M u g g i n e o n d C o n f i t o f TOlTIuto

Yul11010tti filling

airtight freezer bags and keep them frolen forup to several weeks. Cook the agnolotti while still frozen.

FlrS1 CourU!

79

Fuvn Beun A g n o l o t t l

F AVA

BEAN

CURRY

FILLING

w i t h CU tTY

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

EMULSION

Eighteen I -inch.long pieces romps

2 to 3 pounds fova beans

2 teaspoons curry powder

3/.. cup fresh breed crumbs

2 tablespoons chopped sea11ions

'I.. cup plus I lh teaspoons masearpone

31.. cup plus 2 tablespoons Vegetable Stock

Kosher soIl

(page

EJll u l s i o n

or scallions, blanched (see Big·Pot BlanchIng.

227), Chicken Slock (page 226),

page 58), chilled in ice water, drained, and dried

ar water Ih recipe POSfO Dough (page

Eighteen I-inch pieces garlic sprouts or garlic

IJ.. cup heavy cream

78)

IJ.. cup creme froiche

chives blanched (see Big-Pot Blanching.

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted buller,

page 58), chilled in Ice water, drained, and dried

cut into chunks

F

ava bean8 have a high stareh contenl that results in a densc puree. perfcet for filling agnalotti. Fava8 arc so delicately navored. I serve

Roll out the dough and fill the agnololli according to the instructions on pages 78 and 79. You should have approximately 48 agnolotti. For the curry emulsion. toast the curry powder in a

rhem with curry-just a light backdrop to Zlccentuate their navor-in an

TO C O M P L E T E :

emulsion (a scamless combination of ilquid and fat. here slock. or

small saucepan over medium heat unlil il is fragrant. Stir in the scallions

wZiter. and cream).

rmd heat for another minute. Add the 3/. cup stock. the cream. and cr�mc fr.1iche. bring to a simmer. and cook until the liquid IS reduced to 112 cup. Shell the fava beans and pecl thc skins

Swirl in the bUller. When the butler is melted. tr.1nsfer the sauce to a

from the bcans (peeling the bcans bcfore cooking them prevellis gascs

blender. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons stock and blend for 30

from being trapped between the bean and the skin that could c.1use

seconds to emulsify the mixture. Season with snit and pepper and strain

discoloring). Remove the small germ al Ihe side of each bean. You need

into a wide pan.

F O R T H E F/I,VA B E AN F I L L I N G :

I II: cups bc.1ns for the filling; reserve any extra beans for another usc. Blanch the bc.1ns (sec Big-Pot Blanching. page 58) for about 5 minutes. or until lender. and immediately transfer to icc water to chill. When they

Drain the ab'llOlotti. add the agnolotti and ramps to the curry

arc cold. drain the be.,ns and spread on paper towels to drain thoroughly.

emulsion. and toss over low heat to coat with sauce. Divide the agnolotti

Place the beans in a food processor with the hread crumbs. Blend until they come together and form a ball. Add Ihe mascarpone and process again unlil the mixture is smooth. Season to taste with salt. You will have I to 1 1/. cups of filling (enough to fill 48 agnolottO. Refrigerate the mixture until it is cool. or for up to 2 days.

80

Meanwhile. cook the agnolotti 111 a large pot of lightly salted boiling water until cooked through. 4 to 5 minutes.

T h l! F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

and ramps among six serving dishes and garnish Ihe top of each with 3 garlic sprouts. Serve immediately. M A IC ( S 6 S £ II V I H G S

Swect Potnto Agnol o t l i

w i t h Sngc C I'cll l n . Brown B u t tol', nn d Prosc i u t t o

-------0SWEET

P OTATO

Fi lLING

I III pounds sweet potatoes

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsolted butler

SAGE C REAM

Pinch of kosher soh, or to taste

113 cup sage leaves (from about 4 bunches;

Conolo oil for deep-frying

use thc smaller leaves for the fried sage

2 slices bocon, frozen and cut into 'I".inch dice Pinch of Squab Spice (page 233)

48 tiny sage lcoves (reserved from obove)

leof gamish)

2 tablespoons ( 1 ounce) unsolted butter

I cup creme froiche

or allspice and nutmeg

I cup Bcurrc Monte (page

4 thin slices prosciutto, cut crosswise Into

1 35)

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

112 recipe Posta

F

Dough (page

fine julienne

78)

�

or a f ll agnolot ti. I like a sweet potato filling; it's denser than the . . traditIOnal verSion made from the morc watery pumpkin. With the

cream, butter. and prosciutto. thiS is a very rich and delicious dish.

instructions on pages 78 and 79. You should have approx.imately 48 agnolotti. TO C O M P LETE

For the sage cream. blanch the sage leaves in boiling

water for 2 minutes. Drain. cool in cold watc r. and drain again. Squeeze F O R T H E S W E E T P O TATO F I L L I N G :

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

the leaves dry.

Cut the ends off the potatoes and wrap the potaloes individually in

Heat the creme fraiehe. beurre montc. and salt over low heal until

aluminum fOil. diViding 4 tablespoons of the butter evenly among them.

hot; do not bOIl. Place the sage m a blender and process to chop it. With

Bake unlll they arc soft. 1 to 2 hours (the time will vary. depending on

the motor running. pour the hot cream mixture through the top and

the size of the potatoes).

blend thoroughly. Stram the cream II1to a large skillet. Check the

Unwrap the cooked potatoes and cut a slit lengthwise m the skin of each. Pull the skin away from the potato and discard. Push the potatoes through a potato ricer while they are hot and place in a saucepan. Place the diced bacon in a skillet. Cook unlil it is lightly browned and the fat has been rendered. Transfer the bacon plcces to papcr towels to dram bneny. then add them to the potatoes. Stir the potatoes over low heJt. seasoning to taste with the squab spice and salt and pepper. Mix m the remaining 1 tablespoons butter.

seasoning and set aside. In a slllall pot. heat oil for deep-frying to 275°F. Fry the small sage leaves bneny. Just until they arc crisp (their color should not change). and drain on paper towels. Place the butter

III a

skillet over medium heat and cook to a nutty

brown color: reduce the heat and keep wnrm. Meanwlule. cook the agnolotti in a large pot of lightly salted boiling water until cooked through. " to 5 minutes.

You will have about 1213 cups filling (enough to fill 18 agnololli).

Drain the cooked agnolotti and nux them gently with the sage cream

Refrigerate the filling until chilled. or for up to 2 days. before filling

sauce over low heat. Divide the agllo\otll among six. serving dishes and

the agnolotti.

drizzle with the browned butter. Scatter some prosciutto over each

Roll out the dough and fill the agnoloHi according to the

serving and garnish with the fried sage leaves. MAKES 6 S£RVIHGS

Flr,t Course

81

Chm H I l U L

Agnolot L l

w i th

Fo n t i n n an d

Celery ROOL P Ul'ee

C H E STNUT F I L L I N G

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons while truffle oil

1 generous cup peeled roosted fresh chestnuts

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

Vz cup peeled, quartered, and sliced Yukan Gold potato

2 to 3 cups Vegetable Stock (page 227)

(sec NOle) or vacuum·pocked

'12 recipe Pasta Dough (page 78)

3 cups heavy cream

2 boy leaves

SAUC E

1 cup lightly pocked shredded creamy

'/z cup Vegetoble Stock (page 227)

V2 cup sliced onions

'h cup water

1 liz teaspoons chopped garlic

Kosher salt ond freshly ground white pepper

114 cup mascorpone

1 V2 toblespoons unsolted buMer

'12 cup Beurre Monte (poge 135)

3 tablespoons ( ) '/z ounces) unsolted buMcr,

1 Vl cups peeled, quartered, and sliced celery root

1 teaspoon white truffle oil

unsweetened chestnuts

Italian Fontina (2'/z ounces)

01 room temperature

C

great navor

Scrape the vegetables through a lamis and place the puree in a

combination with the Italian Fontina cheese. celery root. and

medium saucepan. Add the cream and sumner for 10 minutes. then

hestnut is a luxurious wintertime filling. and

;1

whisk in the cheese until it is melted. The sauce can be made up to a day

trurnc oiL

ahead and stored in the refrigcrator. but do not add the cheese until Place the chestnuts. bay leaves.

ready to serve. Reheat the sauce and. if it seems too thick. whisk in

vegetahle stock. and W.lter in a saucepan. bringto a simmer. and cook for

enough stock or water to bring it to the desired consistency. Then whisk

.l bout 1 5 minUles. to reduce the liquid by half and soften the chestnuts.

in the cheese unlil melted.

FOR

THE

C H E ST N U T

FILLING

Pass the sauce through a chinois (sec page 73) into a large skillet.

Strain ilnd reserve the liquid: dise.1rd the bay leaf. Puree the chestnuts in " food processor. With the motor running.

You can usc the back of a slllall iadle to help the liquid pass through the

gradually pour enough of the rcserved liqUid through the feed tube to

strainer. but do not force any solids through. Adjust the consistenc), with

form a thick puree.

the reserved stock and season with salt and peppcr.

Scrape the puree through a tam is (see page 73) and place it in a bowl. Mix in the mascarpone. bulter. and white tnJrne oil. Season to

TO

C O M P LETE

Cook the agnolotti in a large pOI of lightly snlted

boiling w.1lcr until cooked through. -1 to 5 minutes.

taste with salt and pepper. You should have I to 1 '14 cups of filling

Meanwhile. stir the beurre monte and tnJfOe oil into the sauce.

(enough for -18 agnolotti). Cover and refrigerate the filling until cold. or

Dr.l in the cooked agnolotti :md add them to thc sauce. stirring

for up to 2 days. before using. Roll out the dough and fill the agnolotli ;!eeording to the instructions on pages 78 and 79. You should have approximately -18

gently over low heat. Divide the abrnolotti and sauce among six serving bowls and serve immediatcly. MAI«S 6 SERVINGS

agnolotti. F O R T H E S A U C E . Gelltly cook the onions and garlic in the butter in a

82

N O T E : To peel fresh chestnuts. preheat the oven t o 375°F. With a shnrp

medium saucepan over low heat for 3 to -1 minutes. or until they have

paring knife. cut a slit ali lhe way around each chestnut. Hub with a thin

softened. Add the celery root. potatoes. and enough vegetable stock to

coating of vegctahle oil to keep the shell moist and accelerate the cooking

cover them completely. Simmer until the vegetables arc tender. then

process. Place on a baking sheet and bake for IS minutes. or unlil the

dr.l in. reserving the liquid.

shells hegin to pull away from the chestnuts. Peel while still warm.

The F r e n c h Loundry Cookbook

W h i le

P O L E NTA

� ol"n

A g n o l o t t i w i th S U llllllCI' Tl"\lrrlcs

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsoiled butter,

3/" cup Vegetable Stock (page 227) 3/-4 cup water 1/-4 cup plus 3 toblespoons polenta R I SOTTO

4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter,

at room temperature

at room temperature

l lJ-4 cups corn juice (from 7 to 8 ears; see Note)

(sce Blg.Pot Blanching, poge 58),

1/2 recipe Posta Dough (page 78; Note' If

1 cup Vegetable Stock (poge 227),

or more as needed

chilled in Ice water, drained, and dried

making extra ognolotti to freeze, you will

2 tablespoons finely minced summer truffle

need slightly less than 1 112 recipes dough,)

2 tablespoons finely minced chives

About 1 112 cups water

CORN

J/" cup Arborio ricc

2 cups com juice (from about 1 2 ears; see Note)

SAUCE

1 teaspoon white truffle oil

liz cup mascorpone, at room temperature

T

2/3 cup corn kernels, blanched until tender

Pormiglano·Rcggiono shavings

hese ab'llolotti contain a delicious filling that owes mueh of ils

Place the 1 1/, cups corn juice in a saucepan and whisk it constantly

impJct to thc corn juicc. which is intensely flavored and also helps

over medium heat until it has thlckencd and reached 1 BO°F. Do not

to blcnd the polcntJ and mascarpone-enriched risotto.

exceed that temperature or it may separate. Remove It from the heat and whisk it into the polenta/rice mixture. You will want to whisk

FO R TH E P O L E N TA �

Bring the vegetable stock and water to a boil in a

saucepJn. While whisking the liquid. pour in the poleOia in

vigorously at first and thcn beat with a spoon to be sure that all the

steady

clements arc evenly blended, There should be approximately 3 cups of

stream and. continumg to whisk. bring to simmer. Place the pot on a

filling (enough for 10 dozen agnolotti), which can be used

diffuser o\'er very low heat. Cook the polenta. stirrl1lg occasionally. for

immediately or refrigerated for up to 2 days: cxtra filling can be frozcn

about 20 minutes. or until it forms a ball as it is stirred and IS fully

if you prefcr. Roll out the dough and fill the agnolotti according to the

cooked. with no raw cornmeal taste. Keep it w.um over very low heat.

directions on pages 78 and 79. You can freeze extra agnolotti. for up to

M E A N W H I L E. F O R T H E R I S OTTO;

a

Bring the stock and Ph cups water

to a simmer In a saucep.ln. Spread the rice in one layer In a wide saucepan. Add I/z. cup of the hot liquid and stir constantly over medium

a few weeks. FOR

THE

CORN

SAUCE

Placc the corn Juice in a saucepan over

medium heat. Whisk constantly until it has thickcncd and reaches

heat until the hqUld has evaporated. Add another 112 cup and continue as

1 80oP, Slart the blender and pour in thc hOI corn liquid. With the motor

above. adding more liquid oncc the prevIOus addition has e\'aporatcd.

running. add the hutler and blend for a few seconds. Strain the sauce

The rice should be fully cooked for the filling. so if it is not tender aftcr

through a fine· mesh strainer into a saucepan.

you havc used all the liqUld. continue to add smaller amounts of hot

TO C O M P L E T E

watcr or stock until it IS fully cookcd. When It is cooked. it will form a

to 5 l1unutes. Meanwhile, gently reheat the corn sauce (do not boil) and

stid,}' ball as It is stirred (it should be thicker in consistcncy than regular

add the corn. tnlffle. and chives. Just hefore serving. add the truffle oil.

risotto when it is served as a dish). While it is still hot. put the risotto through the fine die of a meat

Cook 48 agnolotti in lightly salted boiling water for 4

Drain the agnolotti and divide them among six serving dishes. Top with the SJuce and sh:\\'ings of Parmesan.

hrrinder (if you do not own a gnnder. you can pass it through a food mill

MAKES

6

!d R V I N G S

fitted with a fine disk). Hepcat the process, so Ihat you have ground it twicc. Place thc polenta in a clean saucep:m and set It over low heat. Stir in

NOTE O N CORN J U I C E

I f you have a juicer. eut the kernc1s frolll Ihc

the ground risotto to comblne the two mixtures. l\ell1ove from the heat

cob and follow the manufacturer's instructions. I f you do not have a

;lnd stir in the mascarponc and butler until thoroughly combined.

juicer. follow the method on page 172.

F i r s t C o u r s (t

83

I Ir

Tr u f f l e s

84

T h o F t o n c h L a u n d r y Cookbook

Fresh tnlmes arc becoming available III marc specialty stores, and they're being grown with varying degrees of success in Olany countries, but none matches those found in France and Italy. It's imponant to usc enough trumes. Orrering just one slice is wasterul. bccause you don't get its full impact. Tnlmes have a short season. The bcst black ones come from Francc: 1 buy large quantities of thcm in scason, pO;:lch thcm in mushroom stock. ;:lnd freeze them for when we need them. The vel)' bcst white trurnesare fromA1ba. Only usc them fresh. Ifyou necd to store them, don't use rice. as somc expens advise-it dries them out. instead, keep them in an airtight cont3iner wrapped with a moist towcl. Trumes grow in clay-based soil and must be carefully scmbbed in warm water.

T n :o; t 1 n g or POlnlocs w i l h B l ne1( 'l'1'ufrlcs

P O TATO

PUREE

MUSHROOM

1 11 ..pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

V.. teaspoon while wine vinegar

RAGOUT

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted buller,

1 2 ounces assorted smarr potatoes In a variety

I cup heavy cream, wormed

of shapes and colors (for example, 3 ounces

1 0 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted buller,

each French Fingerling,

at room temperature, cut into 6 pIeces

Red Russian Fingerling,

at room temperature, cut into 4 chunks

2 tablespoons Brunaise (page 155) I III tablespoons finely minced block truffle

purple Peruvian, and marble potatoes)

V2 teospoon kosher salt, or to toste

I teaspoon kosher solt, or to taste

I tablespoon minced chives

Freshly ground block pepper

I V.. cups Truffle·lnfused Mushroom Stock

2 tablespoons white truffle oil

(poge 87) or 3/.. cup Mushroom Stock

Freshly ground block pepper

(page 227) plus 112 cup truffle Juice

1 6 Truffle Chips (page 48)

(see Sources, page 3 1 5)

T

his dish combines several different potato preparations-sliccd

half and then into 111ft-inch half circles. Long narrow potatoes can be cut

small. served in a bed of mashed pOlatoes. with chopped trurnes. a

into small circles of the same thickness. and larger potatoes may need to

trume sauce. ilnd erispy trurne potato chips. The contrast of texturcs­

be quartcred lengthwise before they arc sliced. There will be about

creamy. firm, crunchy-makes the ordinary extraordinary.

3 cups of sliced potaloes.

The h:l rdest part of Ihis dish is the mashed potatoes: in some ways.

Place the potato slices in a strainer and rinse them under cold

it mOlY be the mosl difficult recipe here. heeause there are so many small

watcr. Place them in a pot with I teaspoon salt and cold water to cover by

choiecs that have a big impact. First. you should cook the potatoes i n

2 inches. Bring the water to a boil and cook the potatoes for 2 to 3

thcir jackets s o that the water doesn't penetrate into the meat. You must

minutes. or until just tender. Drain in a strainer. rinse the potatoes

cook them in Ihe right amount ofwaler nt the right tempernturc. a gentle

cOirefully under cold water. and set aside,

heOit. so they don't burst open; don't just throw the potatoes in a pot and

Bring the trume-infused mushroom stock (or the mushroom stock

boil the life out of them. Then let the excess moisture steam off after

and trurne juice) and vinegarto a simmer in a medium saucepan and let

boiling and pass the potatoes through the tamis while they're still hal.

reduce for 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in the butter. one piece at a time. then

Finally. you must emulsify the bUlter and cream into thcm without

add the cooked potato slices and simmer until the stock thickens to a

brc.1king that emulsification. knowing exactly how much butter and

sauce conSistency (vinegar helps prevent root vegctables such as

cre.1m you c:m gel into them-:lIld then knowing how to get even more

potatoes from overcooking). Add the brunoisc. black trume. and chives

in! Therc's a great lesson in Ihis recipe: how to pay ;lttention to the

and season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm over very low heat.

details ofwhn{ we think is a simple preparation.

TO

F I N I S H T H E P O TATO P U R E E

This recipe involves an exacting

technique for achieving the perfect potato puree. Special care must be PI;lce theYukon Cold potatoes lll a pot with

takcn to maintain a low temperature while emulsifying the potatoes.

enough w.1ter 10 cover them by .11 least 4 inches. Bnng to a boil and boil

butler, Olnd cream. If thc temperature becomes too high. thc butter will

F O R T H E P O TATO P U R E E :

gently until lhe potatoes arc tcnder and offer no resistance when poked

melt as it is added and the potatoes will become oily. You will need to

wilh a knife. 30 to 40 minutes. depending on their si1.e. Drain the

remain with the potatoes throughout the cooking process.

potOltoes and return to the empty pOI ovcr medium heat for a minute to stearn off excess moisture. MEANW H ILE,

86

FOR

THE

Peel the hot potatoes. pass them through a tamlS (sec page 73). and

a

plaec the puree in a hcavy pot. Stir MUSHROOM

RAGOUT

CUI the assorted

IJl

the salt and beat With a wooden

spoon o\'er low he l 10 dry them out slightly. Add the cream and butler a

potatocs (do not peel them) into pieces Olpproximately the samc si1.e so

little ilt a time. nlternating thcm and bealing vigorously the entire time.

that their cooking limes will he the same: Cut small round potatoes in

The puree should be holding to the sides of the pan Olnd will be stiffer

The F r e ro c h l a u ro d r y C o o k b o o k

and more difficult to mix than traditional mashed potatoes. If it does not hold. and forms a ban around thc spoon. your pan may be too hot. Should this happen. remove the pan from the heat and beat in a small amount of water to return the potatoes to the proper consistency. Then lower the heat. return the pan to the heat, :md continue adding the cream and butter. Scrve the potatoes as soon as possible. TO

COM PLETE

Sllr the white trome oil into the ragout. Season the

potato puree with additional salt if needed and pepper to taste. Spoon some puree into each serving bowl. Make a well in the ccnter and fill with the potato ragout. Carnish each portion with 2 lname potato chips. MA! « S

T R U F F L E · I N F U S E D

M U S H R O O M

8 5 {1 � V I N G 5

S T O C K

4 ounces summer truffles, or winter (block) truffles 3 cups Mushroom Stock (page 227) Fresh raw trufnes arc excellent if you use them right away. but poaching and freezing them allows you to buy largcr quantities whcn thcy arc in season and storc them for future usc. A �,'1'eat side bcnefit is that you're left with a wonderful truffle-mfused mushroom stock. The navor will depend on the quality of the trume used. Don't expect robust navors when using summer trumcs. The stock will keep frozen for six months. With a mushroom brush. nailbrush. or small scrub brush. carefully scrub the dirt from the trumes under warm water. (If it IS not completely removed. it will stick to the trufncs as they poach and because it is so fine. you Will not be able to Slram the dirt from the stock,) Place the cleaned trurnes

III

a small pot. Strain the mushroom stock through a

chinois (sec page 73) over the trurnes. Discard what rcm,nns I T1 thc chinois. Cover the trumes with a small plate or lid to keep them submerged in the liquid. Heat the stock slowly to a gentle sllmner and poach the trumes for

20 minutes. Remove the trurnes to a small bowl and strain enough stock over to lust cover. Strain the rcmallling stock Into a separate container. Cool in Ihe refrigerator. then place the stock and lrumes with their stock III plastic containers or resealable bags in the freeler. MAI( [ $

ABOUT

2 112

CliPS

(PLU�

TtU

TRUfflB)

F i r " C O \.l , � e

87

Cnl'nul'oli Risotto with Shaved White "rruttles tl'Oln Albn ----------------

� o �

---------------

PART

1

P A it T 2

2 to 21f2 cups Chicken Stock (page 226),

2 tablespoons conolo oil 3 tablespoons mInced onions (minced smaller than the graIns of rice)

Vegetable Stock (page 227), Mushroom Stock (page

227), or water, heated to a

simmer (for risotto with white truffles, use

I cup Cornoroli rice

1 cup crisp dry white wine, such as Souvignon Blanc

2 cups Chicken Stock (page 226),

1 '/.. cups chicken stock and I If.. cups water)

Vegetable Stock (page 227), Mushroom Stock

If.. teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste 5 tablespoons (2 112 ounces) unsalted buner

(page 227), or woter, healed to a simmer

31.. cup

(for risono wIth white truHles, use 1 cup

If.. cup freshly grated Pormigiono·Reggiono

chicken stock and

1

cup water)

heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

3 tablespoons white truffle oil (for risotto with white truffles) Fresh while truffle (optional)

T

he best rice for risotto is grown in Italy's Po Valley. You can use

before the wine was added. Scrape the bottom of the pan to keep the rice

Arborio rice. but Carnaroli results in risotto with the creamiest

from sticking. TIle alcohol smell should be completely gone. Increase the

conSistency.

heat and add the stock; it should just cover the rice. When it boils. reduce

If you don't have truffles. the basic risouo could be topped with

the heat and simmer for 4 minutes. Drain the rice. discarding any

Braised Oxtails (page 162). a mushroom ragout. or a variety of

remaining liquid. Spread the rice in a 9- by 13-inch pan or other similar­

accompaniments. Base the liquid used in preparing the risotto on the

size container. cover. and refrigerate for several hours. or up to a day.

2 : Put the rice in a saute pan. add 112. cup of the stock and the salt.

finished dish. For example. use chicken stock when you are serving

PART

meat. or vegetable stock for an asparagus garnish. Risotto normally

and stir over high heat until the liquid begins to simmer: it should

requires a cook's undivided attention over a long period of time. TIlis

continue to simmer throughout the cooking. As the stock evaporates. add

two-part method allows you to begin the rice preparation the day before

Ih cup more. Continue to cook. adding more stock as it evaporates and

and makes the final cooking time less than ten minutes. The dish should

tasting the rice from time to time. TIle finished rice will be similar 10 al

be served as soon as it is completed.

dente pasta; it should be thoroughly cooked but with a little "bitcH remaining to it. never mushy. When the rice is cooked. let whatever liquid

PART 1 :

Heat the oil in a deep heavy saute pan over medium heat. Stir

in the onions and cook slowly until softened and translucent but not browned. Mix in the rice and stir for 3 to 4 minutes.

88

remains in the pan evaporate (you may not use all the stock called for). Remove the risotto from the heat and. using a wooden spoon. beat in the butter a little at time. working quickly so it will "emulsify" with

Add the wine and let it simmer. without stirring. for 2 to 3 minutes.

the rice (creating a creamy risotto) rather than melt into the risotto.

(After adding the wine. lean close to the pan and breathe in the aroma.

Vigorously beat in the whipped cream. cheese. salt to taste. and the white

You will be able to smell and feel the raw alcohol at the back ofyour nose.

truffle oil. if using. Divide among servingbowls. Place shavings of white

Breathe it in several times during the cooking process. and as the

truffle. if using. over the top of the risotto: The truffle can be shaved over

alcohol evaporates and the rice begins to toast. the raw alcohol smell will

the risotto at the table ifyou have a truffle slicer. or it can be sliced in the

dissipate and be replaced with the smell of toasted rice.) When the liquid

kitchen on a mandoline and then scattered over the risotto. Serve

has been absorbed. begin stirring to "toast" the rice. The rice should not

immediately.

brown. but it will separate into individual grains. looking much as it did

P I C T U R E D ON

The French laundry Cookbook

PAGE

MAKlS

6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Ilccntlse the white trurrlc 1!iI such nn

c.xtrnordlnnry girt. nnd beentlsc the

�eo�OIl-rouj:thly October t h l'ough

Dccenlbcl-IH so Hhol't, you wnnt to

Il'cot It os !:4ltnply I\S possible. nR we do In thl!:4 cloHslc Plcdlnorllcsc I'IHOllO.

I lelll'llcd the tcchn lCJuc or roldlng

whipped creon1 IIHO I'lsotto rl'On1

Aloin DucnHHc, Though Ihe crcnln

doet'l "Inelt" out or Its whipped SIOte.

It conts nil the Inol" louol gl'oln:.!

n101'c cosily thon I t would ullwhlppcd,

,,\Iwnys odd your rot nt the end. ,... lth

the pHn orr the hcnt.

F i r s t C o u r s c.'

89

Potato Gnocchi

o � �

----------------

----------------

as

2 pounds russet potatoes

3 large egg yolks

1 V4 to 1 'h cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons kosher salt, or to t te

T

hiS rceipe yields more gnocehi than arc needed for a single recipe.

Roll the ball of dough lightly in flour. Pull off a section of the dough

but their versatility makes them an ideal item to have 011 hand. Usc

and roll it by hand on a lightly floured surface into a "snake" about 112

them as a garnish or serve them as a meal. We serve small gnoeehi. but

inch thick. Cut into liz-inch pieces and. using your hand. roll each piece

they can be shaped larger if desired. Part of what makes this a great

into a ball. Then roll the balls on a gnocchi paddle or over the back of a

recipe is that the gnoeehi freeze so well. and they go directly from the

fork to create an oval shapc with indentations. Test one gnocchi by

freezcr into boiling watcr so they're always at the ready.

pJacingit in a large pot of r3pidly boiling lightly sa.lted water. It is cooked

Preheat the oven to 3S0oP.

salt to the dough if necessary, or add a bit more nour if the gnocchi

as soon as it floats to the surf3ce. Taste for seasoning and texture and add Bake the potatoes for I hour. or until they arc completely cooked.

secms mushy. Continue forming the remaining gnocchi. placing them

Split the potatoes. scoop out the flesh. and press it through a potato

on a lightly floured tray until ready to cook.

ricer. Place the hot potatoes on a board or counter. Make a well in the

Place the gnocchi in thc boiling water. Use a slotted spoon or

center. Place a layer of about 112 cup flour in the well. add the egg yolks.

slammer to remove them to a bowl of icc water as they rise to the surface.

then add about 112 cup more flour and the salt. Usc a dough scraper to

Once they have cooled (3bout 2 minutes) drain them briefly on paper

"chop" the potatoes into the flour leee of tWlnc. but do not squeeze the foie b'Tas: you

TO C O M P L E T E

want to maintain the natural shape of the pieces.

hot knife (heated under hot water and dried) to cut il into 1/3- ineh slices.

Remove the fOle gras from the cheesecloth and use a

Place the wrapped pieces of foic gras in a pot top side up with

Arrange the slices on a platter. Stir the jelly to break it up. spoon 1I into

the Gewul7.traminer and water. The liqUId should come about halfway up

a small seIVing bowl. ;'Ind seIVe with gray salt. pepper. and the croutons.

the foie gras. Place the pot over low- to- medium hcat and slowly heat

P I( T U R [ O

ON

PAG( 1 0 9

M A It £ S 1 6 � l I C ( S o r f O I t G R A S

F i nt Coune

III

" T O N G U E

I N

C H E E K "

B r u i s e d B e e t Cheeks a n d Venl Tongue ,vith Baby Lcel<s a n d Horseradish C l'CEl ll1

� o �

-----------------

BEEF

2

-----------------

IIJ cup corral, cut into lh-inch mirepoix

C H EE KS

beef cheeks, (about 1 '/" pounds each)

1 recipe Red Wine Marinade (page 190)

'/" cup creme fraiche, whipped

8 baby leeks (or small scallions if leeks are

(see page 203)

unavailable)

V3 cup leek (white and light green ports only),

V2 cup baby watercress, baby red oak leaf,

cut into Ill-inch mJrepoix (see page 203)

Conola oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 doves garlic, peeled

Flour for dusting

2 sprigs thyme

2 leaspoons extra virgin olive oil

2 cups Veol Stock (poge 222)

112 teaspoon kosher salt

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

2 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish

3'12 cups White Veol Stock (page 223),

4 pielc'8 u n )l1l 1,er to\\c\S to dram. When all the \egcl;thIC8 art' IJInnchrd ,'11111 elr,lIncct, mix Ihelll togcther III a co\'ered COIl131 11('r 011111 rl'fn�t'rillc ror uJI 10 II day. For lonl)er IiIc)r.I�e. sprt'al! the clr;llllt"11 hnlllClUle on It tray nlll! plnrC' the tray III the fCCC'ICC uI1111 frmC'l I . Store Ihe fro/ell hnlliOIKt III It w('11 Iwaleel

amount of lemon oil. F O R T H [ MOl

Ihe bOIling \'I3ler. When Ihe \'q;ctab!c8 arc cooked, 11ft out Ihe (ilr,tlller

'!. Illch of 011 III a large "klllc'l o\'cr medIUm

plasllC bag 111 the:" frccu�r You C.1Il mie the hnllHHKe dlrt'ctly from the

heat. Season the fish \\llh S.J1t and while pepper. Add thc mal flllris dan

free/er In reclll(,s \II h("(' It Iii \'Iarrnrd IIl·fore "crvln�.

side down :'IIld cook for 2 to 2 1/z IIllnutcs. occasIOnally prcsslIIg dowlI on

" ' T U l t D Olj " "' Co t

the pieces with a spatul3 lo hc1p lJrowll lhe skill. Flip the fillets and "kiSS" (jusl lmeny cook) the other Side. then removc the mOl rrom the pall. Place 2 1 0 3 teaspoons of the or.1nge gl:11e 111 the center of cach plate. Placc ahoul I tahlcsJloon of the soylJC'an mixture III the.' center of Ihe glaze. :llIowlng 11 to sprcati wto the gla/t'. Place thl' mOl skill sidl' up o\'er the healls. Celltly pl:lcc a small l)llc of the crllil' s;1lati 011 OIlC end of c'aeh n101 fillet anti scn'c.

201

" F I S H

Heel M l i l ho, w J 1 1 l

PA L E T T E S

It

A N D

C H I P S "

Iln/t-lIt· II'" ''

/)011.1' u l l d G , . 1'1 h.' C h t P H

REO MULLET

'11 cup panko (Japanese breod Clumt»;

2 10'00 Of 3 medium heads QOrf/c. cloves

s.ee Source1, pooo

Conolo all

3 1 5) Of dry brrod crumbs.

finely oround In 0 blender and sifted through

..paroled and �ed (3r/, ou"",,) 5 hord·bolled egg yolks

1 2 red mullet fillets, skIn on

(sec On C,bping Skin,

a " ralner

pogo 147)

I '!, loblcnpoons unsoiled butler, $Oftcncd

PARSLEY COULIS

Kosher Mllt and freshly ground white pepper

Ko1her s.olr to IO\la

3 10 4 IorOC buncl.,. ( 1 2 ounccs) Itollon pa"Jey

PA R S L E Y S A L A D

'11 cup oll.purJ>OW flou,

I tablespoon Bcurrc Montc (poge 1 35)

1/. cup smoll Iiollon po�ley leaves

'I] cup heavy acom

Kmhc, sol! to loslo

1 teaspoon finely minced shollot Extra virgin olive oil

Pinch o f kosher so h Aboul 3 6 Garlic Chips

' O R T u r 'A L ( T T B

Pbc� the ,",urlie in a finlall ll:lUCt'P:1I1 Willa cold

should have aboul lh cup o( pllr�e. It can be rdngcro1tcd (or lip 10 2 days. l I eat aboul

'I.

Inch o( canola 011 In il large nonstick

Willer W cuver ;11111 !lrlug 10 a hoil. f)ralJl lhc g:l rlic i n a Klllali lltr.11IlCr.

TO C O M P L £ T [

1.:001 1111111·, cold WIlier. "ful rt'JU'i1t tht' I 'rOC(,'''I, H" ,U':lt :I tJll rcl lllllC. hut

likillel OYer IlicdlUlTI IlIgh heal (there should he enough 011 to come

liilh

Ihl" tilllf' holl IIII' garlic dOVt'ff ullIiI IIII'Y arc Hoft and th("rt' Iff no

about hal(.....ay lIJi the suicli o( Ihe (Ish), Scason the red mullel w l l h

rc"IHIMICt' "")"'" tllt'y Me plcrc" d Wllh fI Hl'Jlilli kl1lfc, Dralll Ih«· garlic

and white pepper. ;uhl Ihe (Illets skill side down and S3U16. prc8�lIlg

elm','",

,/, cup for tlit, fI:clelle,

clown on the pieces o( filih wllh a It:lrrow spatula or small skillet to keep

hlllll'r. and 1i:11t HI a 1111111 food

Ihem nal. WIIt'Il the fish 18 alrl108t cooked, a(ter nbout I nunlltc. turn the

UUIHh thc'III ItIiKhtly. :1IId IIIC:IISlirc (Jul

PIIlc,' IIII' garlic purl·c.

" IU; yolkH.

proc'('"tllJr IInci hlelul unlll ..IIwnlh. L'lle n 11111.'111 pan wllh p).11iIiC ",'rap

JlICCCB IO "kIlH,." or hneny cook. Ihe second lilde. TIlc 101.11 cooking lime

fllul Kpn'flcl llw IlIlxlUrt' in II. I n a IlJ Inch Ihlck layer. C.oyer :and frt'l'l.e

Will he ahout I liz mlnute8, "emm'e the (11Ie18 10 paper lowels 10 drain.

for ;wvt'rIll hount, UII1II tilt' rnu;ture IH 1101111. or UJl IU a f" w claYK,

Add the (({m:n Iwlel tt:s to Ihe pan and hrown (or aboul I minUle on

CUI Hix I 'h IlIc'la dlHkl1 from the: (roo' II garlic IIllxl urr, Place Ihe

cach Side. unlll CriSp nnd w.1r1ned through.

nour, ('reMII, IIwl enunh" III Ihree NI'parah' dUihf'K, DI I ' l':ICh .flsk mlo

M E A H W ti l l [ . F O R T H [ PA R S l [ Y S A L A D

II.,. nOllr. pl1ll1l1g 0(( any I'X('CKH, tht'll comp!t'ldy coat wllh cream and

fihallol" With a IIHIII coalill/:to( oll\'c 011 and the sah.

Toss llle par8lcy lc:wc8 and

dn!"Kt' ill the ('nlluhK, helllg c:lreful to coat cadi roulld cfllIlJlletdy.

Place the panlley pur'c III a slll:111 saucepan and re .....arm II. Check

HClhp a KI'c:onli 1 1 lilt' In Iht' crcalll and ('nullhK nnll n'turIl tllC' p:cll'lIeH 10

the conslstellcy: II shl>ulel lJe Ihat o( a sallce. I( It 18100 tlllck. thlll II with a lillIe walef; I ( II

IIII' (n'c'/I'r,

rOR

l ll [

PAR S L E Y

CO U l l S

DII1I'anl t ill' IHugh KtemH (rom the

ItarNlc'y. Y,III Nhoilid 11fI\'I' :lllIlIIt " JHlchd cUP" o( It'avrll :1 nil telltl,'r "Ielllii. BlIlIlC'h thc' JlMHI«'y (N«'C' Big Pot B1:III('IIIIIJ.;'. pagc' 5H) u n t i l tl'wlt'r ,Ind (('WOY" 11/

OncC' till' parHlry IN ('0111, clmln ll ;11111 'I< I III'C' /I, t lll' C'X('I'NII "'ilter (rolll lilt' mixtllre

10 I lI rn.

Hlcllli th,' l 'i1rlilry 10 Il purr" , SJlfI·..d IIII' "lIrh 011 .1

tnllllH (Hc'e l 'ilJ.;'C' 73) ami nllow to HII (or

5

IIIll1Ulrll to II ro'll II nny C'XCl'K8

11c l ulcl. Dlllrnrd Ihe liquid rlllcl paHN thr JlurtlC' through til(' 1;1111114. You

T h o r r o n , " L o u n d r y C o o l. b o o l.

Hi 11)0 thin, simmer hricny (heal can caUSe the pur�e to

change' color, fiO cook II ali !atllc a li pos8Ihle). Slir in the hetlrrc monl6 awl se.1KolI wllh Nalt In 1381e. 1'1:1('" 3 t1poon(ul o( Ihe parsley couhs 011 cach serving plate. CCnlcr a palclle 011 tlU' titlUCc anel cnlificrofill iwo rcd mullel (11I('tli. likIn 8Ide up.

a bnwi II( irr walt'r.

tile' lenvrll, Plac,· thc JlarNI/'Y In a hlc'IICIe'r W i t h J""t c'IIIJUK" "'au'r to :lllow

ISO

(recipe follows)

O\'tr coe('h Dill', Tnp Wllh a slack o( p:lrsley salad alltl garlic clllr8 :uul 8erYe IflllIlC'dltHcly. file T U lL t 0 0'1

' '' Co t

1 !J 8

G A R L I C

C H I P S

Gartic cloves Cold milk Canolo all for deep·frying

The unexpecled tiling ahout garlic chips IS Ihelr crispness, liolllrlllln� you don' t normally associate wllh garlic , Blanchmg Ihe hr:l rllc c10vcs III milk leaches oul some of lilt, lllttcrncss ami make" Ih(,111 N\\l'ctcr,

As

ChipS, garlic doesn ' t become so fono. arc! Ihal you ' re 11\'ln.; \\ lIh II for Iht, rest of the night.

Slice Ihe garlic c10vcs as dun as pOSSlhlt· on a lIlandol llw, 1)lact.' tlit' bhc('s in a small S3uccp:m anti cover \\1111 ('olel milk, Bring the milk 10 a hOll, then d r:l l n the garlac slaces III ;J blramt'r (tillic:ml the Hull) and rinse them unde r cold \\alt'f. H('turn tIll' b!JCC'Il to tht, pan and rt'lll'at tht' process three t l lll(,8, lIolng fresh IIlllk each tllllt', Pal tilt' gJrhc I'Illcl'b til) on pap('r 10\\ cis , Ht'at lht' 011 III a dt'f' P saucepali lO :W O° F, Add tltt' .,11('('s ICI thl' hot 011 anc! fry for

12 10

15 IIIII11Jtt'S, or 1111111 1111' huhhll'8 aruund lilt: c-hlps lIa\'.·

suhllHled (tuglllfYlng Ihal all thl' lIIultiturt· lIah «,\:I (l0rall'll) and tht·y an' a light goldt'li hra\, fl. Dr:lln thl' garl1l' dllJls OIl I':ll't'r tu.... t'ls S i o n' alrl lght 31 room Icmpl'r:1lun' for 1 to 2 tl:l) ti.

Tilt' " ('cI IHIIII('( I,.; J,l1'U l l fylllJ,l (n IIIIII(�·. I I I H I ,'ut . 0\1'" l i n t ! U\I'" UJ,{IIItI.

I t " " ,'Ie I ", 11111 J""'I

\\

1 1 1 1 1 IIUlkl'"

II,,· rl lI\'I H'''' or 1 1 1 1 the' 1'1" 1 1 11 ' 1 1 1 .. , hilt 11 1 ..0 t i l l ' \\II� t h e') lun'e

10,",,'1111'1-111,' 1·,'rI o r I I I I ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ' 1 "J,{uhl'"

1 1 1 , ' IwlJ,{hl J,{ I" " 'I I plIl,.. Il·) " 01 1 1 1 .. lI",nl ..... Ih,'

1t·1I\'I',.. of lh,· PIII,,.. !t'y Hllllle!. I h l ' hl'II" II of I h , '

c ' l I l p,.. ,.. 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 " 1'. 1'"11'11,, !'j·t,·,·... 10 I h l ' ,.. 1111 1 '"

1 I I I x l l l l·C'. V'II' 1111'. ( I I I .. , 1 1,.. 1 1 I .. II .. c'I,,,o"

t,'h·tt

( I t ,11 .. 1"

pllll.IIt· .. . t h , ' \\11)' th,' ",11,'11"

ot Ihl' '1/1 (11111.1', "" .. ,"" "

I I I pl· ,'t" I' t I I " II Il" ''',

",II I'"''

160

Tho r , .. n c h L o u n d l y C o a l b o n "

Spotted SlultP

\\,In", w l l h DI'uhH,'d Ih ..· (1 Cnhhu J,tl' un(l M U "' l u t'd S u u
Conolo oil

Kcntwrr $011 and freshly oround block pepper

2 .pr1g. Ihyme

Kosher solt and freshly ground white pepper

Ccnolo 011

2 doves oartlc, cru�

I qUO" Veal 510ck (pogo 222), healed

2 toblespoons ( I ounce) unsolted

I qua" Chlc""n Slock (pogo 226), healed,

Ccnolo 011

5 pounds aldolls.

cut Into

1 1J2·1nch·thkk piec.ft

I ,«/po Red Yn"" Morlnodo (pogo 190)

8 monkfish medallions about 1 Inch thick

2 tablespoons Beutte Monte (page 1 35)

about

Ih cup tomalo dlomonch

stems removed, cops deaned and sliced about If. Inch thick

Few dtop, whllo wInd vln090r

V. cup Scurro MontI! (pogo 1 35)

H

2 tablespoons chopped Italion parsley

't.. Inch thick, Of 1 6 shIItakes.

't.. cup Orunol$O (pogo 1 55) (wo pogo 203)

(about 2 OUJ'lCC'S coch)

bvn�

16 $.mOil c� (porclnls), deo� and slked

Of hOI waler

Beurre Mont� (poge 1 35)

I

lob/..poon B,unol.. (poge 1 55)

en', lhe lIIonk(lIlh iH 80 lSolu.! und 8I1hIUanti:ll lh:11 i1 C.3J1 lw()pon the

impurities h3ck illto the liquid ralher than separatillg them.) Skim and

rlehne,,,, or the OXHJiJlS. ami the comhl1l311on of (18h ;and nch

discard the IIII IlUnlle8 and olher parllcles a8 they rise 10 the surface. Remo\'c from the heat.

Imll,lt'ci Hlettl rlIlc;ml lhl' ch('f'sl'c1oth mill remaining

Turn on the blend r to medium 8)1c(.'d and 01110'" tht' herlJli to blrluJ for a

purrc tlon't wring out Iht' chres,·clolh, or YOIl fIIay dUlul 111f' (HI.

rosemary or thyme other herbs that \'fork In

minute 10 hegln the: proccsH, If Iht, hrrhlJ :aren't t urnlilK frc,·ly. add

Ot' I.rnehngon tllr 311lountyuu arr making, a"el the Kilt' of IIII' cnnllullt'r,

slightly more 011 fiO that Ihey '" I I I Turn tht' Kllc('d 10 hlKh Drut CUI1IlJlUt' IU

YOIi lI1ay lIl'ed 10 tlo till" 11\ halchf'll, Ston' t)1C' UlI III t)lI.' rcfngc'rittor (M

2 UHnute's. If lour hh'nder has a hole 3t llit" lOp,

frc'('/(' 11) f1l1t II 11110 n Iinlall l.IA"lIc tHIUl'C'/t' hcml(' ror W'rnlstulig tll"heft,

blend for anOlht'r

fhh

16S

PARSLEY OIL

ROS£MARY OIL I cup (01Cmory IcovC'S

4 cups Italian porllry sprigs

2 WPJ Iiolion porlJcy sprios

About 'I" cup conoCo oil

Aboot I wp conolo all

BLANCHING

8 L A t� C U I H G

TIM[

TlM(

J 5 aeconda

H08cm:uy. 30 Iccond'l lhen ..dd thc parsley and

continue fo III.1nch ror anolher 10 second. BASIL OIL FfNNfL OIL

3 pocked cups basil leoves

Abou1 l/" cup olNe oil 2 (uPS fennol f,onds

BLANCHING TIM(

J 5 Bcconds

2 (uPS italian pauley 'pOos

,. A U S " l O U T

'I)

CU'

"" A . U S A I O U T

' 13

CUP

About J/" (UP conolo ofl BLAUCUIUG

TIM(

HOlh Ihe fennel fronds ..ltd I'3I"8Jc:y. 1 0 10 15

M I N T

O I L

tu!ctUlllK

4 pocked cups mint IMVes About l/" cup conOOJ oil C U I V E

BLANCHING TIME

O I L

J 5 sccondB

I podtcd cup chlvos cui Inlo '.Inch pieces About I (UP conolo all n L M� C U "� G T l M f

wit'e'r

THYME Nom ' , place the chive. III ,.

8.r.1 Incr; uHi

OIL

nm hot

uvcr Ih"l11 ror nhollt 2 IIIlnlltt:K to Hoften ami remove the

If" cup thymc IcovC1 and tcndcr stems

3 cups hollon parsley sprfgs

(Ohlurophyll tlUue

,.10 1( 1 )

"lOUT

'/]

CU'

Aboul VA cup conolo oil BLANCHING

TIM[

'nlymc. 3 0 8cconds; then add the: parsley and

continue to blanch (or anolher 10 scconds "" " U S A I O U T

'h c U P

C U R RY O i l

CARROT OIL

II, cup curry powder

1 cup callot juke (hom about 1 V, pouroru Cui InlO 1.lnch mlrcpolx

One 750·ml bollle (ed wine

Hlum KItI" 11 fnc,'� ynu. Polcl lhlij bOIIOIII " dgc up, uHlklllg;J narrow tria ngle.

'6 cup COHOI" cut Into 1.lnch

111111 ,'n'jIHe It. IflIli ntil l liing Ihe pHi !! t of Ihe I rlangle• •1K If you ....·cre making

mlrcpoht (sec poge 203)

II

pn lu'r nlr"ll'l''''. '.'old tllill ....... ltll.;" flvcr again. lIIallllllirling Ihe POlIll, and

" Ollllrllw fnltllllg ill lhlH IIUIIIIlI'r Ulliit you gel 10 IIII' Oi l ier Kill"

:Ihout rive

or Klx foldK In ;111. YmJ "llOul,1 f,"lIih will t n "ery slell,Jer IrI,wHl e.

("'" poae 203) 3 cloves gorllc. sma�hed

1/J cup leeks cut 1nlo 1·lnch mlrepohc

10 sprigs 1Iolion parsley

(whIle and pote green pons

2 �prig� Ihyme

only, s.ce poge 203)

I boy lcaf

Tu IIlt'ilIUJrt' Ih� IIIIC'. "hlct· the III' over tht' c" nter of the pot 10 be

cuvl'n" 1, murk Ih e " "Ke IJf the pot wilh your I hu lI1h, and ('ut thc CIIIJ off

Iu·n'. Then ('ul {l ll unnt'r ineh offtlie III"

ufold you r t rlangle, It ....' 111 he

Thili mari nade. uscd IIl sc\'cral d ishes. can IIlso he made wilh white ....· i nc: when approprrate- wlth vcal, for e xa mple. Usc n wille Ihal 18

Cahernet

:1 circle- II I(' Klle of YUllr pnl. wl l h a lill'mn hole Ifl the cent(·r. Plilee Ihl8

acceplahle for drrnklng, tiue" 3S :I

IlIlpcr lid 111 1111' pOI fiO I hal l l relilfi gl'ntly oll l h,' fOUlI you'n' cooking.

B1:1J1c. Always cook off 1111 the alcohol first. or the alcohol will bcglll 10

S3llVlgnon or Sau\'igJlon

cook your rutal (lice ai,ove).

Plact' all ihe IIIg retl l e llls

III a

"Hie pOI and hring 10 a holl. Ti l t the Jlall

a ....ay . from Ihe hurrll'r :wd carefully Ignite Ihe Wille wllh a IlIIIICh. Allah'

III(' alcohol

to

hurn off. then hghl II :lg:lln. If there arc no nallleS, the

alcohol iii Hone. Cool Ihe 1II:IfIII:ule. I he n pour O\'(�r Ihe nll:a l ;1110 marrn:lte for 1110 24 hours.

190

T h ll F l ll n ch Ln u n d , � Coo�boo�

""001

191

IlI'nlHed

BJ'CUHl of Venl w i t h

Ye J J ow Co I'll

5 cups Chld= S.ack (pogo 226). WO''''.

Y(AL

,

Po l c l l l n Col(e ... . G l ozed Vcge l o h l c fJ . n n d Sweel G n l'l l c

Dobby veol "'eo.. (abcxn 5

paunch)

V E G E TA B L E G A R N I S H Thirty-two 1.lnch pieces corral, turned (sec pooe

or a combinallon

lho, ",It and f,.,hly g,ound blo 2 tablespoons tomalo dlonlOn(b (sect pogo 203) 2 ,.,"peon. B","ol>. (pog. 155)

(or other white beans), soaked oYCmloht

ko water, drained, and cut on tho b60s Inlo

Ko�r salt and freshty ground bIoc.k pctppor

at room temperature In 1 cup woter

1 .lnch pieces

LAM.

2 toblespoons dried cranberry beans, soaked overnight at room temperature In 1 cup water

10 largo yellow wax beans. blanched untll tander

V, cup Chicken S'ock (poge 226)

Ico 'WOter, drained, and cut on lho btos Inlo

Two 2-lnch sedlons leek

1 .lnch pieces

Two 2.lnch sections carrot

6 doubl�ul rib lomb chop', lrimmed

(... BIg·Po, Blanching, pogo 58), chlll
of e_cC1S fOI ond sllV'C!l'\kJn and bonos Iranched (oboot .. to 5 ouncos each)

� soil and frcnhty ground block popper

1/. cup peeled favo beans, germs removed

Conolo 011

Two 2·lnch·long onion wedges

(seo pogo 80), blonc.hed until tendCf

2 lablO\poon\ ( I ounco) un\Olted buller

I recipe -Quick" Lomb Souco (poge 228)

(sec Blg'Po, Blanching, pogo 58), chlll
J clO'I'C\ oo,Ue, spilt and cfudlCd

1 teaspoon unsalted buner

Ice 'WOter, and drained

6 .",Ig. 'hymo

V. cup fresh �ns (see Sources, pogo 3 1 5), blanched unlll tender

(� Blg·Pot Blonchlng,

pogo 58), chilled In lco water. and drained

TO COOK T H E D R I E D BEANS

Remo\'c and discard any bean skinS

1 sprig rosemary, leave\ onty Rosemary 011 (pogo 1 66)

hallam, 1\lrn the choJls and continue to cook for another

3 mlntue.,

that have riscn to the top of the water. Drain and rime the beans and

Place the.: chops on their "idea and rotllte them to hrown the IIhleli.

place them in two scparate small pots. Add cold water to covcr hy

another I

2 inches and bring to a boil. Remove and discard any beans that come to

slightly rare.

the surfacc, Drain the beans and run under cold water to cool.

10 2 minutes, TIle chop" IIhould be well hro..... ned but atlll

Hemo\'c most of the rllt from the pan nntl

ulhi the butter. huting the

Return thc beans to the pots and co\'cr each with h31f the chicken

I.unh chops with the hutter ali iI meltll. Top the 111mb ..... Ith the gulic

stock and enough watcrto cover the.: he3ns hy I inch. Add a piece oflc:ek.

clO\'e:8 and IIpngs of thyme. Place: the: pan In the O\'cn for ahout

carrot. and onion to each pot and slowly bnng 10 a simmer. Any beans

4 minuteB, or until the

that have not hydrated and any loose skins will come to the IOP I skim

thermometer should regilHer 1 1 5° to 1 20 o P. He move the pan from the

them orr and discard. Simmer the buns for about I hour. or until they

O\'en and let the meat rest for 3

arc tender. The beans can be cooked up to a day ahe3d and refrigerated in their cooking liquid.

III Ilt aI' medium- nre, an Intltnnt - f(:aci

10 01 mlnulell,

While the lamb II cooking. drain the cooked heao" nnd combine the heanlantl ahout half of the: ltunh 8uuce i u u 8:tuccpnn. BrinK to 11 simmer.

Loop a piece of kitchen tWine around the hone of 3

tikun the B:lUCC:. and warm through. ahout I to 2 minutes. Sllr In the

lamb chop just above the me.:at . ....'rap hath ends of the t ..... lne around the

hUller. then add the green and yellow beau8. the fav3 hcanll. soybeans.

meal. hring them hack 10 the bone. 3nd lit the (Wine around the bone to

tomato dlamond8. hrunoisc. nnd 8alt and pepper 10 tnate.

FOR T H E LAMB

give a uniform shape to the chop, CUI off the excess twine and repeat with the remaining chops. Wrap the hones 10 aluJnlrlum fall to protect them from hurnlng, season the chops ....' hh sah and pepper. and Ie.:t rest at room temperature for an hour.

To e 0 M P l £ T E

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

lIeat Iia Inch of canola 011 10 a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the lamh chops 3nd saute for ahout 3 nlHlUt s 10 bro..... n on the

Me:nn.....llllc:. p13ce the remairung bml! Muce in Il smllll pot nntl llimmer O\'cr low heat for 3 10 01 minutes to reduce the gla1c (ahout II. cup), Place 3 ponlon of the ....' arm raKout on e: l ch pilite. Sttuul a lamh chop on it,. Side wllh the hone facing up Over the !Jeans, SCillter a few rosemary !c3ve8 ovr.r the ragout and dn'1.1.le a few d rop. of r08emary oil over the beana and the lamll. 11> "' 1'; 1 \ 6 \ ' . V l l l ct \

Meot

197

Bel l we t h e ., J1n.'m

P,'OVC Jl901

Bnhy Ln'11 i>-[11ve C u t R Se.'ved w i t h

I

Vcgc l n b l c s .

011

BJ'nlHcd Clpol J J n J O n l o n H . n n d Thy.nc

value this dlllh a ll 4 chefbecauae it', a learning experience for my IItaff.

For the .hOlnka. shouldertl. breasts. and neck: Braise in 13mb stock

II givCl them an underltandin8orhow to break down an entire four·

in the oven for 3boUl 3lf:a hours. oruntil tcnder. Cool the bmb pieces i n

legged lmlmal and where the individual pans come from. Theile things

the stock for an hour. then remove them and IIrain t h e siock. Rescrve

are Important for any chtfto know.

the brcuts and remove the meat (rom thc shanks. shoulders. and neck.

The exciting part about this elahorate preparation is cooking the

TO M A k [ R I L L E T T E S

Reduce some of thc lOlmb brOlising liquid to a

cllIlre animal In different waysl braising lhe neck. forequarter•. and

glaze (straining severOiI timcs). Shred the meOlI and add it to the glaze.

hrealh Prenching the rackl Sluffing the saddle, and boning out the

along with some butter. extra virgin olive oil. brunoise. salt. and pepper.

leg. marinating h whh nit. pepper. thyme. garlic. and mUlltard. tying

Roll the rillettes in plastic wrap to form a log Ph inches in diameter.

It up. and routing it. Theil. making 3 .tock from the liquid you've

RefrigerOlte.

braised the neck and hre:uiI in, making a quick sauce from that stock

When the log is chilled. cut into 1/2�inch rounds. Just before

with the honeH left over from the rack and the I4ddle and the leg. The

serving. cOOlt the rillene8 with panko (jnpanese bread crumbs) and 8aut�

d ifferent 3roll138 that emerge when you're doing all this are

i n c!:lrified butler.

phenolllenal.

FOR

TH[

BREAST

follow the cleaning. weighting. and cooking

Anti then the smAil miraclel to put the IInlmal back together.

instructions (or vcal breasl (see page 192). brushing them whh Dijon

prellemlng the pans of the entire lamb on a single pili Ie. 111is. to me. Is

mustard 3nd coating them with breOld crumbs mixed ..... ith minced

whal cooking ISlIlI llhoul.

parsley and garlic before cooking.

We uae th,. Callahan (amily'8 nell�'ether Farm hOlhy !:Imh, but OIny (rl'8h hllhy Inlllb

etu)

he Ulu:d. lIere la how II is prepared nt the French

lAundry.

f O R TH E S A U C E

Make a "quick" sauce (see page 228) .....ith the lamb

bones and remaining braising liquid. TO C O O k

Preheat the o\'en to 350°F.

Saut� the legs in canola oil to bro..... n; add butter. garlic. and Butcher I drc'lIIIcd hOlhy 111mb (22 to 25 pouml.) to yield I I neck. 2 pieces

thyme to the pan and place in the oven for 30 to 35 minutes. Cook the

uf hr�1I1i1 (trimming the: rlh honctl 2 1nchetl (rom the eye), 2 IIhoulders. I

saddle and rack i n the saUle .....ny nnd plnce in the oven for about 1 0

IIlIddl" (lIplh nnd lit-honed), I rack (liplll). 2 1cg8. :11111 4 8hanla. 501\'e the

minutes. Cook the meat until It is medium. There

honcli for Ihe 8nucc nnd the trimnllnga (or afar u (stumn ,).

lamb. so II

Mllke n Jarcr with thelamhtrlll1ulIugs. Removc thc

r O R T lt t S A D D l l:

Sprc'lIcl lheji,rct'

TO C O M P L E T E

the irll1lde (Ihe hone side) of the IIIr1oln. plOlcc the

no fat i n a baby

It Will he lOugh. Saute the kldne), at the lasl minute (it should be cooked until JII81 p,nk).

011

lS

cooked longer than nn older lamb, i( it IS undercooked.

IIlIvcn.kln (rolll the loin nnd lendrrioln and lieaKon the pieces of meat.

Shce all the meats. Place Ol nngof thyme�infuscd oil in

trndrrlolll o\'cr it, nnd wrap the plccell three lime8 in caul fat. Tie the

the cenler of cach pIOlIC. FIll the nngwith sauce. Place n hOlst of the lamb

plecca 10 mninlnln Ihelr IihaJle .

hreast on the sauce. Top the hreast wllh a hrOliscd clpolhm onion and

FOR

l U I:

H A C t(

Frc-nch the !JonI'8. tic the nlckll to m:lInt:un their

""/Ipt. nnd lIenlion whh linlc :wcl Jlt·ppcr. F O R TIU l U i S

Dfl/one nnt! hUllerny the leg" and mh with a mb:lUre

of minced garlic. extra vlrgin olive nil. OIJoII mUlLlard. chopped thyme, nud grny tlnlt. nrform Ihe legs ; Hul tlc them.

1911

lS

Th. f,.",h laund,y

C o o lo. b o o lo.

Provenc;al \'cgclablcs. Arrange the other cuts of Inmb around Ihe \·c:gctahlc8. ending wilh a plcce of the kidncy. C.1rlllsh wilh thymc IC3\'C8.

" ' t U Iti O ON

,. ... COl

200

"" "' ( ( 5

14

to

2 0 U I Y l ti Ci 5

L

BRAISED

Six 3-ounce W1\lson d\OP1 (� Sources, page

SHALLOTS

6 sprigs thyme

Kosher soh ond freshty ground block pepper

2 loblC1poons olive oU

Cooolo oil

2 teaspoons Brunolse (poge 1 55)

BUTTERNUT

1 loblC1poorl lomato dlomancb (see poge 203)

1 bunernu! $,Quash (with a n«k at leo"

V.. cup Beurre Monte (page 135)

I

Kol�' IoOh and helhty ground block pepper

31 5), cui 1 V.. InchH thkk, bones frend'otd

2 large (2 ounces �ch) shollots, un�led

3 cups Chklo.rn Stock (pogo 226) or waler Canola 011

1I. wp "Quick" Venl"'" Souco 11>090 228)

SQUASH

6 lmoll pitcH crhp coolo.rd bocon 6 lprSgl Chef I

4 Inchc1 long)

like venison because l1 "s low In rat and high In protem. You ('all rmd

Scason to IUle with uh

high· quality velllson year· round. but 118 3S80CIation Wllh " litter

(lightly dOlh the ,,:ttu) to ;I. bOil ;l.nd bl.:tnch the 8tlUlHlh rounds until

hngers. so we se�'e II With autumn or "lIller vegelables 3nd rnUlI1

:lInl

pt'pper. Dring Ihe chtckt'n 810rk or Wilier

lendn. Dr;l.tn the alice8

qUll1ces. squashes. beel8, Don't cook It past medltlTll r.Ut. bec3use lhe

TO C O M P l E T (

euon the\enulon chop8 1 IeJI ' . l nch or r;lnoll1 oit i n

lean mcat draes out (llUckly.

a large he3\')' IJn\ll�

tHm. When the Oll iS hot. ;I,iII the chopfilllntl rook on

the first ,Ide for 2 t0 3 nUllutu 10 bro\, n, l11C" Jl3n .shoultl ht" hOI enough FOR THE

S H ALLOTS

Preheat Ihe oven to 350°F.

lh3t "hen )OU .hake the pan din 3hoUI 1 0 1(,(,0IUI8. Ihe chopfil 1110\'('

PloIce: the shall0l8 and thyme sprags on a square or alunllnUll1 rOll.

fred '. Don't mO\'e IIi(' chOll1 unlll tht') mo\(' on tht'lr 0\\ 11 Turn Ihe

driulc wllh the ohve 011, and enclose 111 the rOIl. Bake ror 30 nunutes. or

choJls and bra"" the .seconti 8lllc for 2 10 3 1II111111r8 for 1 I I(,lliulIl r;\re.

until the shallots arc 80rl, Pccl thc shallots. cut orr the root elld. and cut

b3stlng Ihe chops sc\'tral illnu "lIh Ihe all III I lit" p:m.

illto sm311 wedgcs. Place the 8ha1l018 1 11 ;1 slIlall saucepall. FOR THE

V E N I SO N

Loop a PICCCOr kIlChell l\\II\t' 3round the hone or

Meall" hlle. 1I13 �ecolld luge 8.3ttllo p:m. h('al l/I , nch of cunoln 011. Alill the butternut 'quash.

6Cort'tI fude do" n, a1ll1 8JUI� tllIIlI KlIghtly hro\'o lI('tI

:I \'CllIson chop Just abO\e the me�lt. "rJ I) both ends of the t" Ille around

on Ihe bottom. Tilm and conllnue cookHlK unlil the il41U3"h III ht'Jlr41

the mcat . brang them hack to the bone, 3nd tiC the t" Illcaround Ihe bone

through

to glvc n uniform shnpe to the chop. CUI off the txce66 I" Ille 3nd rept"3t wllh thc rcm3lnlngcJlops.

tihallolll anti heat througll \\'nrrn Illc \enlliOn 8nuer.

Alld the bnJIIOlse. tOlllalO tlialllolulK, ,mIl hrurr(' IIIUIIII' 10 Ihe'

CUl orrdle ncck of lhe liqu38h ;'lIHlpeclll (rc:tie�'e

PI:&C( " �poonful of\t'llIlion UUCt' on (,3ch plntt' autl lop ,,"h a rOUlul

the rem.lln1ng squash for another use). Cut SIX II: IIIch dllck rounds

or 6qu.3sh autl a \'('11I80n chup Dl\lde Ih(' tlhallot8 nlllong: Ih(' cito!,". "cI a

fOR

T U E S Q U A S ll

from the neck of the squJsh. Wllh ;l 2

to 2 11J Illch culler, cut 3 round

IHt'C(' of hacon on e3ch bOrlr. anti �unll811 Neh ,, "h n "priK or ch('I"\'I I ,

rrom each slice, Score one Side of e3ch round III ;I. dl311lond p3ltern,

Meot

t99

f'o,' .. I)OUI IlIrc'"

InOlllil", In 1 1 1 0 ",prillK l i n d ,'uri), "'UIJlnH.'r, W(O Kcot t h r"c or rOtH'

I) ..h), III.uh", II w('ck, TWU,U)"IWO 10 IWC'tlt)"th't!' Imu.H'". IIm'C'r tt!d nn)'th l n K other

thnn 'Hc)tll",'·'" .nllk. JJcCIiUNC' Iht'Y'I'," NO "1)(.'01111. W(,,\"(o CUIHPOHCd It tduJ,(lu courHt' IhHI tenlllrO" ,"'III'I()II,", pUrl" or tlw IInhnul on II ",'uuh.· pllllC,

200

Tho F , o n c h L o u n d , y Cookbook

M O I) l

201

BATONS

O BLIQUE

CUTS

PA R I S I E H N E B A L L S

T O M AT O

Ve g e t a b l e

DIAMONDS

cuts

JULIENNE

BRUNOISE MINCE/DICE

F L U T E D O VA L

DICE

TURNED

LARGE MIREPOIX

SMALL MIREPOIX

OBLIQUE CUT

I RU N O IS E

This cut i s used o n elongated \'eget3bles such

Sm:lll dice of :lpprOllll1:lteiy I/lIt II1ch.

3S carrots and P3fSnlps, Startlng:tt the

narrow end of each \'egetable. cut a diagonal piece about

Ifs inch long. .....ith the kmfe bbde

MINC( DICE

To manu Uiling Q, manJol l llc o r sharp

pointing away from YOll at a ·15- degrce angle.

k m fe. CUI the Hgel4ble8 ,nto tilin slace•.

Roll the vcgetable a qunner turn and cut

Chop fond)'.

another piece at the same angle. Repeat the

To dlC't on onion or .hollol Pt'd :U1d cUl lhe

process until thc vegelable ..... Idens. Slice In

\'egel:lble 11l half throu ·h the root end Pl:ace

half lenf:,rth..... ise and cOlltlllue to turn and cut.

cUl lude dowll on a cutting hoard. Slice

I f the pieces become too brgc, cut

\·crtlc.1.l1

lengthwise again to keep pleccs equal 111 size.

from wuhin I

il\ II. IIlch ,lIce8. eUltlllg fOl'\\'3rd IIlCI! oflhe root end. lt':lvllig

the olllon or shallol Iniaci I\ept'al "'llh 8ATONS

hOrIt0U1:l1 slict's. CUI \'crtlcoll ,lIcu acr0811

Using a mandohnc o r sharp knife. cut

the ol1lon or shallot to form the tltee.

'A ,. I N T U I H , A n o y ( ,

thickness. Tnm 10 de81fC�:d letlb'1h. Cut

DIC[

poulhlc frolll ihe fnait or \'cgl'lllhlr,

crosswisc to form batons of 311 even

Slace b3ton8 1rlto the deSired lluckllCl8.

thickness and Width.

IC3\,ll1g the II1t'cc8 3& long 38 p05slblc. Cut

IlIlIg a lII:lmloitllc, cuI "lacC'ta lUI Ihinly 11M

vcgetables into sheels of thr: deslrcd

across Into 8'1U3fC8 10 focm Ihe dice. (TIlc PARISIENNE BALLS

dice 8ho", II here IS lit lI1eh.)

Scoop \'ery s1l1all balls uSing (I - 1 2 melon bailer

HUTlO OVAL

SCOOI) lIslng:1 OUlcd . oblong vt'gclalJlc 8COOI), T OMATO D I A M O N D S

Peel 3nti quarter a tomato. Place dan Side

TURNED

down, Clil a .....aY the IIl1enor. and trl llI lhe ribs

Cut the vegelableli 11110 plcrelJ slightly l:irgcr

to crealc an even sheet. Turn PU:CC8 o\'cr and

than the tiCblrt'd 1111.(' of the Iiill3pcd \ cge1:lhl('.

cui IIlto 1/' � l nch stnps. CUI SlrlpS on the

SIng .. paring 1.. 1 11 fe, CUI from lOp to holtom

dlO1gon:l1 11l1O (iI:1I110IllJ shapes.

10 "", Iuulc" a foot},a11 8hape

JULIENNE

M I A E PO I X n A NG E A N D S M A L L '

Trim Ihl' \'egeI3blc 1 1110 tht' dC81red lellh'1h

ut tht' \ t'/o)cl:.hlca lntfl IH(,,(,CIi of tll(" UIliC

USlJ1g a lIIandolllll'. slice: the vcgctahle Into

apprO�lInal(' 811(' Tile longcr the \'t'Hct311Icti

tilln slu:l't8 Ovcrlap the shech, to form a hlle

"'111 11(" coukell, the Iargcr Ihc JlIt'Ct'1i of

of Ihe \l'gclabll'

IIIlrcpOlx l..argt' IIlIre1'011 11i prlmanl)

form 3 J ulienne.

hlld) blaCC the Sh("t'11i to

ul\(,,11

111 block" anJ '1111311 JlllreI'O)); In tllt' J113kJI1K of b3ucr8

204

T h o r t o n ' h L a u n d , � Cook book

The

I m portance

of Rabbits

From 1 980 to 1 983, I worked i n the kitchen of a small restaurant near Catskill ,

e w York, o n a patch of the

Hudson River Valley so remote it didn't have an address. The sb: ty - scat restaurant was owne d by Rene .lnd Paulette Macary (she rem3ins its proprietor today). 1..:1 Hh'c.

1 clutched

named Ihu8 hecause i1 sat on a wide running creek. ,",'38 3 fruitful

Illbbil8 IcrC3111 :uHi tl1l8 OIlC Kcre:ullcd loudly. 'l1l�n It broke 11K Irg

training ground. and New York StOlle had extraordinary lh'cSlock.

trying 10 Kel a,,'ay. It WIK lernhle.

Bcautiful vc31 came down from Utica. I found 3 m:m ""ho r:lIsed

:It the fl�t �bhlt, I luul :1 hllrU lt me killing It. It 8crC'ttmrtl .

The next ten n.hhHII du.l n't scream :md 1 .....:l!I 'IUick ..... lIh tilc kill.

1m!

Spccl3cuIJr pigeons. I bCI,r:m 1 0 ask these farmers for unU8U31 11erna to

thou flf"il Kcrcanllng rahllli nOI only

experiment with. things lake pigs' ears, cockscomhs. duck testicles.

3180 13Ughl inC 3hout �31iIr. Ikc3UKC killi ng Iholl" r3hhUli IltHI IIcrll ",ueh

One day. J asked my r3hbll pun'eyor 10 show me ho..... 10 "all. da n.

g;:WI! IIlr a le'UOII

IU hUlchering. II

an 3wfut expcnellcc. I ..... uulll not KCl ul uHlcr them. I .... oulll \Uu� nil 111

and cvisccr:n c a rabl)lt. I had never done this. and I f1b"Urcd I f I "'38

po....'e(8 ;11'1 3 chl'( to efHiurc Ihill I hoKe rabill t" w("rc hClttlltful. 1 1 ' " very

going to cook fahbit . I should know It from its Ih'c state through the

C3SY 10 go to :1 groce ry ,;tort' alltl huy lI1e31, tlltn nccHlrl\tally I)\'ercouk it

slaughteri ng. skinning. and butchenng. and then the cookl llg, 'Ill(: bruy

and throw II 3way A cook lI:1l1l�lIlg a. r.,hblt 10111. �'orkIHK IIH' IIlIr un II

sho..... ed up with twch'C! hve rabbits. lie hll one over the head wlth :l club,

S3IUnhty flight . Q lIulllon p3tHi gOlng. piatr" WH nl{ uut lhr 111)0r. ...., IIU Illuk

knocked il out. Shl 1l8 lhroat. pinned It t o :1 board. skinned It the �hQI�

tll31 101113 lillie.- tot) r.n. tlOedu'l hrlj;lt�le. JUlil tlUlTlps lt I n lilt' gllrhUKt' AIIiI

bit, Then he lefl.

(m'li 3nother. Woult! li I al c:uuk,

1 don't know what else 1 expected. hut there I W:18 oul

In the gralSli

hehlnd the restaurant , just me and cleven cute hunnles. all of wilich �'crr

on the menu that .....eek and had to fuui thelr way 11110 n hrauil llg pan.

I

wfllule r. tu",,:, Irt III N IUlI'nlilln IlI flly

(rom 1 1 1:&1 10111 1I;ul he klllf'd Ihr r;ahlill h l lllself? Nu, Shnll"l " conk 6Clu:ludt'r Zlnythi llg, ('\',' r1

I t was Q tillTlplt' IrIiIiOIl.

','- n l

105

206

T h e f, e n eh L o u n d , y Coolbool

Sncldh ... or H n h h l t .

In

A p p lt'wUlUI"

lnnlu-d UncOil w i t h

Cn l'nll\(-U'l.t'"

Pc'nut'1 u n c i 1''''- 1 \ 11(''

011

CARAM E L I Z E D F E N N EL

RABBIT

v, cup "Qukl" Rabbi' Sauce (pogo 228)

3 fennel bulbs (about 7 OUflCC1 coch)

3 ·super" rabbit 5oOddle\ (� SouIte1. pogc 3 1 5)

Fcnncl 0'" (pooo

2 �prigs thyme

18 thin �w bocon. Pfl!feroWy applowood.

6 lprigl iermcl

2 pfeces �tor onls.
1 66). In a �l" bolll0

smoI<ed

1 lcospoon fennel seeds

K.oshct K)1t and frnhty oround b&ock pcppet

I boy leof

Canolo 011

II,. cup kosher solt Conolo oU

I

love using rabbit. ",llIeh we get frolll co op� in Oregon, It 13stes

O\('rl3ppln� thrm "0 Iht') form 3 rrCI"II�lr 3S \\ IIle :'ll\ IlIt' Irll�lh tlf nllt"

lIelther like chicken lIor like wilt! h:m:. I t ·s mOlln and IIIcrrtllbl

10111. 1\I' I I(';lt to III[I\." I'" U IllUrl" rt'l'I,lllglt'I\. S":IIUlII ('artl l 'lt'('r II f IUrat. lay

tender. It 's like fish III that U '8 a good \' cIltcic for ta5t('8, lIere 11 carnC'K

It 3ero�" Ihe hacoll "hct'I\, anti fl)lI the r,IlI11I1 IUIII " I' III Iht' hac·ol1. TIC'

(,3eh c liluiu "' llh h\lldlC�r'K 1\\ 111(' al

the b:acon and fennel navors beaullfully,

lIlel! 1111('1"\,.18.

" lIh a klllfr 10 rdt'ase thr (JI alltl r('\ral thr t'wl u( Iht' hon('"

has a tendency 10 hecome mealy If II regts, 100 long, For thll' rcclpe, WC' do nOI use the Il!b"ti. O'Arlng-nan sdls ",hat they

fun.,; «

to .... .·1 to gnp 11Ir (Oil. )lull tl ah,') frum Ihr hOIl" " In Ont' plt'C(' Trim a\\ay any rt'3l11nllUng fat Srl"oll lhe lUt'al \\lIh K311 ,lIu1 1't'P I'('r,

call a "super" baddle, the fiaddle \\ith the nlltt altncilt::ti, IIlclu�I'ng the kidney the three Ilarts of the rahbil you ' ll need for thul (ltsh.

TO

O M f'l I I r,ll "hUIII I,. 111(," of call1l!'' uti i n II Iflrgl'

T O C O O l( T lt f F O R T H E CARAM E L I Z E D f E H N E L

l/.

To f"'II('h Iht, hUlu-Iwflh" rabhll r;w\.M, I\erolpl' Ih(' rllll"" fth,· hOllrl'

Servc rahln! no more than f"'l' to ten Olmulc:8 afler (:ooklllg II, lUi II

S�III('1 ()\rr IIIe-dIlIlU 11I�h hl',ll Sault' tht' KiU lllll'/'I. roll\lIg Ihc'lIl "rullIllI

Tnru tlll' lops ;ulIl rool t'lItis from

Ihe fellnel hulLs and cut a n X 11110 Ihe root end of each. Plact' tlu' f�lIl1d

froll1 lll11r 10 111Il" . (or;lhoIl1 5 1IIIIIIItl·". nrlllllll lht' IIfC' " \1'111' hro" lIe'd.

II) a pot. cover .... lIh cold ""ater, and add the rl'IIHIIIHlIg II1�rt·thrfllK

Tr.tn�fc·r l hl'1II 10 it h,lklllg p.lIllllUI pl.III· IIl IIt,· m,'1t for alillul 5 11111lUleK,

excepl the 011. Bnng the .... ,'ltcr 10 n h011. eewer Ihe pOl. and 611llntcr (or

nr IIl1tll ('0,,\.,·,1 10 1I1l',IIIIII1, '" h11., �I)U fllllKll Ih,' ,11,,11,

ahout 15 Illinutes, or until ihe fellnd Ill lenticr 10 Ihl' con' .... he·1l 11:81('11

When Ihl' fennel hulhs ,If(' cold. cut

2 {'('nlc'r c.'ut gli('t's, ailoul

II: Inch cacho from ('aeh hulh. FOR

THE

R.A

OIT

I'our off an) har'HI fal fj'lIm I III IIH 1I1 111C' "L.IIII'1 fillli IlIhl llir r,l('k" III thr "'�11It'1

with .. klllfe, J)ralll lhc� f('lInd nTHI rc:fngc.' r;llc,

;1\111' tll" II1, IItnung III hrhwlI UII .111 "Ull'b. 1111111 IllC'y .trl·

cooLl"ci lo IIU,tllUlII, 'S 11) " 1I1111111c'" Dunng tilt·

HemO\t' Ihc kldllc' .s ;:Jlld pee:! off 11Il' OIlIC'r

St'parall' Iht' racks (rolJl lhe 8.ltltlleti. "lIl ll'a\!' III(' 1a�1 nb ,1113dlt�d

hltcr"

allli ",IUle' 1111'111 1I1l1l1 lilt,,. ,1ft' Kllghtly l'OIr,III1«.'1I,,',1.

,IhoUI 2 1111111111;'11: )ll'r blllt'

to Ihe haddle·. Utilllg �1t('h('11 "hl'an. or .1 bharp hC';:J\) �l1If,', -'ifllli l·.:I('h

\X',lnll tilt' ".II1C','

rack Icnglh.... uil· I U halflO forlll t"'o 1I1t1a\!dual r.I(,�foI

CUI " ,lell b:Ilt.1I(' ,l Iul

Tn 1I0Il(' Ihl' "acldlc's, 'uit· .I hlt.trp 1>01\11110: �r\lfc' ,ifill n'lIlU\t' lllI' IClln� ancl lt'ndnlolllti, TnIII III(' nJ I II; cnall�lf) .IIUrlu',1 1t1 thl' It.lddlc· lu I Irlch S" 38on IIII' ")11110 ;illll lt'llCll'rlOllIs '" lilt h,tll rUlil llC'P I','r ,111,1 (C'pl.1t I"

lilt' h'llIll'rlulnJi nl) C.IC'l1 IOIll I-nld llw n.1J11O .JrUUIUI IIIl' IIll',lt W furlll

111111111" of ,·lIul IIlK.

Ml',ln",llIlc', IIr:\l I . III1.' h uf (';111111.1 ctll I n " Iir('OlUl lar�I' K\ollrl , Adel thr fe'lIn('1

nll'rnlJraneR. S('t aSICI,'.

.... ,tit'

!rUi!

aelll III" L.ul lll'l'" ,,1111 K;,UI" hrll·n

,I

r.wL. 11111) 1�II IHt'('I''' ' CUI ra('h lltllll'y IIl lmlf

StIUrrlf.: i-I nnguf "'nnrl U1l cHlIU ('MiI plnlt' ,11111 "' IHllIlI llll' 'HIIIl'l' I IIIU

Ihr' 1'lIh'r au (lil liit' nllgli. L" I"" r a bllc'c' uf f" IIIH'1 "" tilt, "'JUl'" Ar(lUl�I' " JII" ('I' flf h,lIlcll" , r,n � • .11111 kill III')' lm lU I" .11111 K,l rrtl"h ('al'lt l 'unHIlI of rahhlt '" IIh . fl'l1I,,'1 ri)lnK

l'UlIl l'a('1 (') h lll!c'r /\rfllllJ.l:l· (, ;;liu·ti uf baLUIi fill ,I "" Irk burf,l I"',

M e ll i

:107

/

20a

T h o r , Cl n c h l (l u n d t � Coo�lIoo�

The

I mportance

of Offal

Roland Henin taught me how to cook tripe. This was another critical step for me. At L, Rive. I had become interested in offal. the innards that were in abundance in the nlral Hudson

alley in the early 1 9808-

brains. kid neys. 11\'t'f. tcstlcles. 810m:lch. lUll!,"" TIle O"' llerti of I., Hi"t". who wcre French. loved arral because In fr:mcc It 18 cookC'd bC�IlIHrull)'.

btlullt'C1 for IIUlklll� ll lllllnn�('. ou' l't" 1t't'S II lr:elY l u In�('('h,'lll,(," "IUI IO Irarll,

but it W38 rarely used In Amencan rcslaur.mh\ at the l illie.

Onct' OU\t' tlclt' rllllllt'li not 1 0

Not long "fter I arrh'cd at 1..0. Hive. lIenm hq;:m I(:ach lng ;11 the

""111(' orral. ou II1\1!U It'lar,,). IlrIllQUlIlIIJ.:t' Ifl IIU' J:rcnch term (or the

icc water, pl aclIlg Iht container in Ihe SlI1k, and stirring the liquid

r(, lIIoI H lrning. " or H" cond (·xlr.1cl ion (rom the honcK. " " 4. M arriage o(Vcnl · 1 nnd VCil' -2 ilud (unhtr reducllolI lO concentl.ltc

occalllonaUy unul there iUC no traces o( steam and the 1i

ami tll J o\\' thc I(IO('k

10 lIIillUlr81 thi"

:1.110\\'11 all' plr1lclt"!l Ic,(t In Ihe Iilork to 5('1 I 1t' !ll lhC' 1I01lOm oCtllr pUI. Set

STOCK

:t c1111101S (tiee

1 0 pounds veal bones, nedu, and

III1J1Urlllctt. 11lr 1I100'k .... '11 htlV(' A

1I01l(,(,3hl(' ciani '.

iWl'r " ('onlilll\er IArgr'

5r " 1:\llIr 10 rCIIIOH' Ih(' IUt)rk frol1l th('

IlOl allll .,lr;"n II 11110 Ih(' COIIUulI('r (II 1 5 illlJlnrtanl 10 ltHlir Ih(' "lUck

I calf's foot, split (optional)

Ih ounce Itolion parsley sPfi9s

rJlhrr I hall pouring It. 3fi tlte forr r of ! 'o un nl-: It (Jul "II AI tlncr \\'ollltl

10 quarts cold water

2 boy I."..,

for('(' II11 1Hlrlllrli IhrouK" 111[' ,.1 r'JlIlrr. ) Illllrtmi :m' "toel lo",anl thr

AROMATICS

5 .prig. ,hyme

hOllom oflhe pot Ihat III ('lnUlI "lilt 1I1 lllUnllrtl Fill II lillik "111i I('r "':lI('r arul plaet' I he COllllliller III li to ('0411 do\\'n

4 cups ( I pound) leek! cut InlO

f3J1 l1l1y StIr orca!ilOllaJly 1111111 thrrr arr 110 Wlt'l'" o( Klcll lilo

1 ·lnch mlrepolx (sec pago 203)

Ih(' lilork

(while and some 1I0hl green

ncfngt'f:ue thr 1I10('k for I 10 2 da) li, or (rrt'lr III "('\'eral conlnlnefll fnr

ports only)

10111o:('r IIl0r..ge .. " U \ 3 O V . I ' S

Hluse the vcal hone8 In cold .....alt:r and place Ihe bOllu :md us mg. In a 1 6 (Iuan

hlockpol . Add e nough cold

calr., foot.

If

\\tlh:r 10 COIllC Ihrce

'1uancrs of till' \\31 up the Sides of Ihe: pOll there fihuultl bc JI ICJIH 1\\ ICC a8 much waler a8 there are bOIlC6. Slo.....ly lmng Iht' \\;lI{"r 10 a 6U1Ul1rrl dUN

mily lake 1 10 I III hourg, As Ihe hqUl d ls hr. lng hrought lo a Sl Irl ll lr r. move the bones around from tune to l i llie, hUI do nOI fillr, "')lIch ",ould cn'ale too much movemcnt anti dls)lt'rse the unpunuc8 SkUll offlhe IiCUII1 1hal

LAMB

hrowning. Once Ihe bone8 :Ire 3 rich deep brown color. removc them

STOCK

from Ihe roasting pan and pbce them in one large stoc)..-pot or two 1 0 pouncfl lomb bonet. CuI Inlo

l it, cup' (8 ounces) onlon, cut Inlo 1 .I",h ml..poI. (sea pog. 203)

lmall ph:cc,

I head gartic. halved, broken InlO

It, cup canota 011 , ",II', fOOl, 'pili (optional)

plCCct$, rool

1 0 quo'" cold wOIor

removed

end and CKCOS' ,IOn

smaller ones. TO D E G L A Z E T H e R O A S T I N G P A N

Add just enough water to harcly

cover Iht: boltom of the roasting pall. Pillce the pan over medium he3t and usc a wooden spatula to scr.,pc up the glalc and bits of mcat on Ihe bottom oflhc p3n. Add this lo the slockl'ol.

A R O M AT I C S

l it, ounces 1I0lian panley 'pOgs

FOR THE

2't, cup' ( 1 2 ouncOl) COl101, cut

'11 oonco

waler to the pot. Bring Ihe li(lliid slowly 10 a simmcr. skimming off any

Inlo I ·/nch mlr"polx

Ihymo 'pOos

E XT R A C T I O N

Add the c.1lfs foot. if using. and the cold

2 boy leo,,,. ( I pound)

scum 018 soon a8 ),ou Bce it. (It is casier 10 skim hefore Ihe vegelahles arc

Scant 2 cups tomato paste

and tomatocs and 8immer the stock for 5 hours.

I pound tomatoes. cut Inlo 1.lnch

L A D L E T H E S T O C K I , n o A C O N TA I N E R

(00. poge 203)

added.) Once the liquid is:!t a simmer. add the aromatics. tomato p:lste.

4 cup, ( 1 pound) leeks CUi Inlo I .'"," ml,.poI. (wo pooo 203) (white and lOme light oreen

First ladle from the lOp.

rathcrthall dlpplllgclecp, lhcn tilt thc pOl iO continuc ladlinglhc IICJuid:

pieces (2'1, cUp')

PO"' ""Iy)

remove and disC3rd the honcs as you go. 00 not he tempted to pour thc stock through a cobllder; I t ,",ould make the siock cloudy. Then strain

T O M O A � T nil B O t H S

Prclu::U lheoyc:nt0 100°F.

Plncl' the IAmh ImneK in a ro:lIJ1ing pan Ih ..t Is lllrgc enough

the stock through ;& ChlllOIS (scc page 73) or fmc- mesh str"incr. 00 not 10

hold

Ihell1 III ulle layer. ( I f Ihc·y Art' erowtled. Ihey will stcam and flot brown c·yenly. WIC 1"'0 paliK If IIt'Cf·fUJI.,y.) Th(' oplional C:llrR fool Is not ro:uuccJ. fill

Ihnl \'/ould tleerc'allt' Ihe CllrLH:llofi of KeI.. II".

Coni Ihe hone" whit the oil; liKing oil KI ' 'c·dll Ihe roalil i ng process. Homll (or nhullt l ila hours. Ktlrrlng occ., slollally 10 ClUlurc even

224

The F , e n c h L o u n d , y Coo"boo"

force through any JII '31 or liquid rClll3111ing In the strainer. YOII "llould have 3 to 1 'Juans of J:lrnb siock. If necessary, rcturn the 8trnincd Block

10

the heal and reduce to 3 (l ua rtR. Hcfrigerale for I to 2

days, or freele in several containers for longer storage. M A " l S 3 O U A lt t S

DUCK STOCK

Ihe honCil litt'.1ming ratlu:or than roullng. Ollre tltt" honr. Art' :t neh cl('("1'

red bro"" (not hlack). r('II1O\t' Illtlll rrolll ilic m""!lngpan 3ntl l'll\c(' III

5 pounds duck bones, cut Into

3 1 2
mushroom slices on il lll a single h'yer. Microwavc on medium power (or 3hoUI 10 minutes. o r unili thc llIuShrOOnl8 1ook shriveled aud about half of their origlf)al size. I( the mushrooms arc not crisp, return 10 the

Sltu,'rye Ihe C.1rrOIK In a IOwrl or hlOi on papl'r IOweiK 10 remove exce88

microwave hrlcnYl lhey should he flilly dried hut should nOI brown.

lIIoIHIII"', J .hlt' n Illicrowavf' trBY with a piece of parclirncllI paper :lIId

COol lhc slices for a (ew 1I1IIlute8, then grind III a coffce grind 'r or

Kl 'rrjul thr c'arrolK on ll ill 'I thin. e\'C:ll lnycr, Mlcrow:&\'l' On low power for

8111 e b�illdcruntll the powder re8cmblc8 coarseJy ground black pepper.

Rlmlll

010 IIIlnutelf, Or lll1lll lhc.: C.1rrollf nrc cOIllJlletdy elned 0111. I.el rool

Do 1I0t gnnd thc powder 100 fine or it will nOI be lIotlceable on the plale. Siore i n a co\'cred plastic cont:Uller,

10 roOIll h'lII lu'ralllrl', Crlntl lhc carrolK 10 n I'u\
... . O U I

I T ... . L t S � O O N

covrrcel plIlKIl'«n t lobleipoon coriond(."f \t'Cd, t 1f2 teaspoonl dO\o'Cl 2 lobfMpoom quol,,, �plct'\ (fout lP'CC powder, l.f.."d

M U STARD

I tablespoon blac.k mu�lord leeds

1 tablespoon yellow mustard lCCd� Crulll thl' IIHIIH:ml liecds togcther 10 11 fillt' I'0,"" tlt'r IU a ('of(t't' or lipll.'t' gruuln Sift through a fllle IIIt'fih IIlr,IIJ1Cr, l'lllrfln� ,"" Jlh a fi lHJon SlOr(' In � l'(J\crc�d pl:llItl(, ('OIlI:Jancr "' . , , , ... . O u l

Sou,cm, poQO 3 t 5)

2 tob!e\poot1l Woc" JX'PIlC'COfnl

P O W D E R

I ' ''' U I S P' O O h

1'0;1"1 lh(' CIIIJI:lIIIC)I}, wfI.llltlt'r. "'m't". allli ' 1 l11urr f l'lt'('" III a ""HlII _L.. lllc'l lI\rr 10\\ ht',ll lIlItll (f,l�r.11I1 fmrl)' �flllli llu' tu:lli!r11 1i 1IlU'" '"" 1111 tht, IiLlrk flt'l'l'rr III a 8J1lce' !If corr('r �fII)ll,. r 51ft thmIlKIi :, (111(, llIt'tlh Klfo1ll1t'r. IiUrrIllK willi n IIlltJllJl IOr� 111 3 IIf'JIt'cl UII1I.llIlt'r ,II fUC1I1l 1t'lIl l'f'r;Hllrr IIr IlI tllf' (rrf'/c'r. U IIf' til luah 111"«(' irrH"ul lU 101'\1' .Oltl,. uf IlIi IlIh'Utill)' aflrr ,I (t''"'' Ila),,, fre'c'/t' fl)r hmgrr tllflr"Kr IUlll lltif' Illrl'( I I) fmlll lhr (rrt'/f'r.) " . ' 1 \ . ' O U I III

CUP

', h O I

2lJ

The

Composed

Cheese

C

0 U r 5

e

When I opened the French r....lundl)'. it was clear we didn't

IllIve the space to roll a cheese C.lrt around the room. Bul J like cheese and w:lIllcd to SCn'C it. Tr;ulilioJlal French licrvicc includes cheese, 80mcdncd and frcsh fruit. somc brcad. I thought "Why 1101 put thill all logether on individual plnlcs to begin with?" So when the rcslaur:,"' opened. I offered IwO cOlllposed checsc pl:lIcti. one of them the Brie with halsamic vinegar and Tcll ichcny ['t'pper. Totl:Jy the chcefic courfie h38 illl own station in the kitchell, requiring its OWII chef. 1 ' 111

i1

r.1 11 of all Cl!ccHC8. even ChcddarIJ, We gel :111 amazing Chcdthlr frolll a farmhouse i n

Wilico'lIi1n. Chl'cRt, )UUi rcally come a 10llg w,,), III Arncric.l. Proper French cheesc Ncn'ice was a uow'hy all rC'('e'ully {lil ihe lalt" 1 9708, And 1I0W ....C·\'c gOI countlcHsAmcnc:1I1 cheese makers ('rcallJlg ('xedlenl ('hce8eB. II make'" 111(" IUl I 'I'Y; iI 's a" if wc' rc fIlially 'Hilling logelher ail ihe pieces of whal 1�lIroJ lt';'IIl and French CII18lJ1C III 311 abOll1.

236

The rronch Lnundry

C o o lr. b o o lr,

" . . •

----...:::..! :: .... - ..

-

--

--

-

\V h l p p('d

131" 0

de Mt'u l I x {'n J7('lIllle ll' w i t h Te I J J c h c-.·.·y Pe p pe .· n n d B n hy l\1 ilChc

12 ounces rfpo Briol chilled

hl8

Freshly oround T4!lIlcherry pepper (tee page ISO)

III " very Himplc. deg.1n1 way to IiCl'Ve .1 familiar cheese and was.

almos1 38 i f you were Ict l i ng l l evapor3te, J fyou boil il lOO hnrd, lhe ntid

I hcgtlo composcd hecse counCil, Not only did J wa nt

will remain and make tht glaze too sha rp, Rcducing it slowl), nnd gentl),

In {riCI. how

10 COfllPOHC a eli Inlo nn

FI�r de �I

In a squeeze boNia

1 2 thin ,UCC1 baouette

T

I Cup boby m6chc

8oilomic Gloze '" Po
ExHO vlroln olivo oil

CIIC

c

c:

eounsc. hut f ailio w.1 n l d 10 manlpulale: Ih e cheese

elegant form. Uric is cre.nny and cream wh i ps-th erefore .

I rtb'll red. I could whip Unt:. :tnd it worked . Ue Hure 10

USe:

c

resuits In a much softcrt38tingglal.c, I t 's casiesl lo cont rol l h heat wilh Ihe a id o( a he'lt diffuser,

3 \'ery good.

riJlc. cre.1my Urlc In Ihlll dish. Wlll ppi ng m:.kcli I I light and luxurious.

ca

Ifcal lhe Yineg3ror pan 1Il :l hC:l\'}' saucepan over medium heal unlil 8lcam

,'ven HurprlalJlK' You recogll llC: the nnvor of nnc, hUI here, L c use the

(Jscs (rom Ih e l iquid , Pbce th e saucepan on n h eal diffuser and lei Ihe

ell cae I Il I IKhl and au}'. Ihal navor IS pl c3sn nlly Oul o( contexi Olnci f('cls

liquid reduccvcry slowlY (lt shouldn't si m mer) for 2 t 0 3 hours, unl1l ll h35

nt'w, cHl'cclnlly Ila l red wllh Ihe IlPICY p pper '1nd dcllcaw greens,

reduced and Ihlckened 10 n s)'nap)' gla7,e, TIlCre should be npproxirn:l1e1)'

Ucmovc IIII' rirlll fro lll lh Urlel)'ou Will h ave aholll

hottle al room te rnperal ure (o r g3rnlsl 1 1 ng plnlc8: if the gla/.c is too IIlIck,

c

c

c

n oun eti of Irllmned

'/2 cup of balsamiC glaze or It. cup of pon gl:l7c. Keep Ihe gla7e In a S{I UeCIe

Urif'. PUI IIIf' cold chef'lic in jl JllIxrr wllh I h e paddle allllChrnf.'1l1 and Ileal

warm l hc hottle III hot walcr 10 looscn Ihe gla7..c,

ral IIlt'dIUIII ISI 'C!" CI . H rapi ng do\\'n Ihe lIulcH (rorn l ime

" C f U IL I O 011 ' A G t 2 3 7

10 lime. (or abo u l

U S l tl " ... . " I G A II .

1 0 111111111(,11, 1111111 I I If' chN'Hf' ll1 very w h it t' and crf'MUY,

c

c

PhU'f' 11 film uf 011 111 a large skillet and nih e:lch Hull' of hre.ld on hlllh Hlele'" 111 1111' 011. Pla f' U\'cr med iulII lat'3t imd ook 011 cach IiHle unlll gol df' l! hrown. I 10 2 lIIil1llU''', Hf'JI10Vt' (roll1 III(.' heat .

C R O U T O N S

SC lllcr1e the h:lI";lIIII C

Mf

I

'l u"" tllf' lul:t rrll'l�.I \\ lIh l h.. rllI\,· • . ;a IIllIt· IIII\r' Hll . lIl1d

1i.&11 Ifl I.&"tc' l\rr.I lI/o:'· 1I1I1l1I "11U11I 1 "1'1" flf 1,·IIIUI"' If'.1\ ,.,. llllll til,lIlIl IIII'm 111 1111' 111111"1'1 111 Ilu" " fllrr Ilf tIll" plulII" �t'&IIII .1 .... " dW· u( , 111" ',,1' ul llII' IIlIlt· uf r.1I h hllU4 1 111'1 Stl'lI'flf' '& MII.III ,11111111111 uf ( 11I\r fill urtlulIIl 1111" (',IKt"1I fI( Ih,' pIUIJlI'I, I" I1I1I� II tlnllh' , 1 ...... 11 UIIIII II.,. "Ialf' �I('

�t

0 11

' ''' 10 1

1" I

..

'.

... -

..

...

1 1 1 - " , ... w l , l l Utlill "'WI·"W-I'IUI'

..

" 1)I." ,,','j l'U l l l h l ' " I I I t I l I . I e l l l lll
oullH

to 6·ounce wedge pccorino Toscano

or other pecorino, rind removed

I I;' CUPl (6 OUncct1) orugulo

) It, tobtCSpc>Oni extra virgin oUve 011

It, cup baby oNgulo

1 1/2 loblcnpoonl axlto vlrg'n olfvo on

2 tcospoons balsamic vinegar

Extra virgin olIve 011

ROASTEO PEPPERS

2 fCOSpc>Oni minced chfvcs

Kosher solt

1/4 cup julienned (1/4 Inch thick) roosted red

Komer salt

Balsamic Gloze (pagc 238), In 0 squeeze bottlc

6 C,ou.on,

pepper'

W

(sec poge 238)

e Herve IhlN Italian Illyle sheep'lt milk checat in an halian stylel

the tip around the plate to form the dotted line. (This takes 3 little

on crwHini with raRllled hell peppers and a pur�e of arubrtda. We

practice; just 3dju8t lhe angle of the bottle :lIld Ihc prcssure exerted until

USt the C:lllaharllt' nrtiHilU checse.

you achicve the desired effect.)

hut you could usc any pecorlno.

Place a spoonful of ambruia couliB in the ce,Hcrof each ring of glazc. r O R T It ( A R U G U l A C O U L I S

Brlng ,(l gallon of

water to a boil in a

largc pot. Ih("n add Ihe Rah :and brenK to a rolling hall. (The water needs

Top c.1ch with a portion of the roastcd peppcrs, a crouton . .. md a fan of cheese. Garnish c.1ch fan of checsc with a stack of baby anlb'tila salad.

to 1)(' hailing rapidly to UHllntaln the holl once the arugul3 18 added.) Add the

M A lt t s 6 U . v U .j G S

'Inlguln nrld cook for 5 to 1 0 minuteR, unlll the stem8 arc tender.

Drnin i llf! nrllguln nlill

place In an ice - waler hath to chili.

ROASTED

nrugull1 from IIIf' waltr anel sll u tl.c out the CXCCIiH Wille'r. Place' I lie' nrll Kuln I II n hltndrr Wllh JWU cnouKh Wolter lO allow it to

Bell PCPPCI'l

hlc'nd ,t Illl

Olive Oa

PEPPERS

HCnlovr lilt'

blend to a Jlur�t'. Spread the purt:e on a

HUniS (sec

Jlage 73)

II110w 10 811 for !i rn l llulcH 10 dralll any cxceHH 1J'luid. Discard tht

nl1l1

liquid and P;INR Iht' IllIrl-c hlencil'r.

through the tamiH :1IIc1 then rtturn it

10

the

Acid tilt' oliy,' oil find hl t nel w,·II. Hcmove to n container. 10 IIH" ii , or for up to a few hourli.

Hdr1w'raw ulIllI YOll l1 n' rr.uly

rOk

TlH

ROASTeD

PEPPCRS

JlI'JlJlcrfl logctlll'r In a KUlnll

An hour Irefore S"rvlllg, tOIJlJ the

IOlnl of :�O HlicCH. I':nn the tilicrli in () j,trouJls o f S "IlCCR ("ach,

COMPL(TI

TORti tht' hnhy I1nJhfllln wllh olIve' 011 and 831t to t:Ullt,

SIIIIe'c/.e 1\ rhlK of IwhmlTlfc gln:tc clo ts

250

favorites. The peppers keep for weeks in

baking sheet with foil . Cut thc peppers discard the while ribs and seeds. Unlsh the

Prehcat lhe m'cn to 350°F. Line 11

Uliingn IIlnndnllJll'. cui the "eeonno Into thin I nnnb'ular SIICC'h YOU wlll 'H'ed n

prcpamlion III one of my very the rcfrigcralOr.

howl with the al l , vinegar. chi\'CR, 3nd Halt 10

tlilile, Sc't ilHI,ll',

TO

I 'm arna7.ed that I can dislike a vcgetable in its rnw form yct manipulate it into Bomet illJlg J lo\'c. I don ' t like raw peppers, bu t this s imple

onw tht ee nle r of each pla lt l

lenh"lhwl8C IfI half. Trun and pcpper8 wllh olrve 011 and fo r 15

place cut ,ude down o n the baking sheet. Bake

to 20 m l lHiles, or UIlIiI they havc softened and the skill has

loosened

from the nCBh. Place If1 a covered container for seyeral

To 110 RO, lill llc'e/" t i l(' "uttle until it hc';ul of gl ntt Htartll 10 l'OITlC out the lOp, I i olel tht, hotlle' nt ahout a 75 drgret· angle. wllh the t i p orlhe hattie

cool enough to handle. peel off thc sklfl and d,lic."d any remailling seeds

tutlchlTlj,t tlU' plnH', I1l1tl, IIlnlllll'lInilig a Blight prCRIUJrC on the hot l le. e1rag

or rlhs,

T h Cl r ' Cl n c " L a u n d , y Cookbook

mlnuteH to steam :lIld loosen the skin further. When the peppers arc

· C A E S A R

PU I'1l1 I g l n no·nl." gglnnu

S A L A D ·

C U H t n l'dH w i t h Jloln n l l ll' Ll' U U ur�e the pears. then. with the motor running. pour the hal walnut crcam into the blender 10 combine (the cream must he hOI when it is added to the pur�e, or the soup JlIay break).

FOR TUE WALUUT CREAM

Place the w:alnutK, cream, and milk in a

KntlCCp"n. Scrapc the Keetl" from the vnnllln hean into thc J1an and add

Strain the soup through a fine-mesh 8tr:.iner into a 8auccpan and

the pod, Bring 10 a Klmmcr, t'lI' n reduce the heal 10 keep the liquid just Ilclow n "Immcr :ul(l he:1I for 30 10 �5 mlnute8 to let the navors infuse.

rehe:H gently over low heat. Serve warm in demitasse cups. sprinkled

Strahl the Infused 1I11',icl lnw another salleepnn ;md discard Ihe w31nuts illld vanilln Jlod. YOII Khouki lUlVC aholll I lia CUpH of walnut cream.

268

Thcre will lJc ahout 2 CUI's Soup.

Th. F r a n c h L a u n d r y Coo"boo�

with:1 few drops of walnut oil. M A Jt t S 8 S M A L L S C A V I N G S

One 75().ml bottlc vcrjus (SC!e SourcC1. poge 3 1 5) I cup cOtn syrup

1 cup Poaching Uquld (,eclpe follow» 3 tablespoons honey 2 large ripe but Urm peoc�

V

Ih 1: I "'38

;l1UJ reduc(' Ihe h('al tiO tiUll lh(' 1 'C'.'I('h('. pO.'leh M J\l161 tIIul r ( :\ ,,1Inl1\("( I n

popular i n Ihe Middle Agcs, bUI has only in Iins tier.ltle hecom('

Iht " nlil. AflC�r .. 5 lIlanul('1I 10 I hour, Ih t' 1'(".'I('he" .houhl laC" rooke',l through hUI 1101 Inn"h). HClllo\,(' Ihr pOI frolll lit(' he':at nlltl le'I Ihr

e rj us 18 3 na\'oring Ingredienl-much lake \'lIItg3

more wtll known in the Uniled Slale8. TIlC� .... oro ciem't'8 frOIlHtf1JUJ. or

'" l:,rrecI1Jutrc," :lnd rders 10 Ihe Uice orullrtpe grape8. II' , ,, fnllly, ""lIilc J liqUId Ih:11 lends ilself natur"lIy to 80rbets , You 300°F. 1.1Ilt' 1.... 0 baking

tlhet'llI with jlarchllleJlt paper.

272

rnerlllb'lJc. USing an orrset Sl':llula. SI)read hal( Ihe bailer in a very thin layer onto olle parchment -lined baking shcet. Bake (or 10 minutes. Ihen remove (rom lilt' O\'en and usc a 2 1h inch round eulter (or whatc\'cr size

II

T i l li F , . n c h

Lound,y Coo�boo�

parchuu:nt -hned iJakingshecl, llold thc l ip slightly ahO\'c the pan asyou

pipe Ihe daquol5e. r.:ather th..:an :lb'31 115t It. 50 tlull the b:luer c�n fall .:and hold a rounded shape. BJke for 30 !lunute•. Tesl ali 3bo\'(� lind rrmo\e from the sheet \01 hen done. Store the da quol8e5 Ulan :urtlght C01l1all1CrUn111 rc.:ady to 36sernble

the dessert. TIley arc befit used wilhln a day. 3S hUlIlIdllY may c:luse them to soften. F O R T H E H[CTARINE STACK\

Cut the flcsh of thc ntct3nncs .:a\Ola\

from the JlIIS. sllcmg It off III t"o\'ertlcJI gllces. oneon eJch lude of Ihe pit Cut Ihe pu:ccs crosswISe mto (lJper than shcn

Ol;.tf roundl1). Pbc('

:1

d3cquol!�e round m lhe bottom of a 2 112 mch rlllg mold. 0\ crlap the sllc('s of one nectanne :lrollnd the m81de of the mold. skin Side 0111. tlI3elmg them unltl you h3\'e used the "hole ncct:lrIliC or reachc:d the top of the mold, nlCre "III he :l hole III the ccnlc:r. Fonn 5 more !l13Ck" lln of hot w3tcr. and heat gently. lit i rn ng. until melted and smoolh,

Meanwlllle. w;um the b3n3na J>ur�e (a miCrO\ll'3\'t' \IIork. \II dl for this). Transfer the pur�e 10 3 food prOCt'88or. add the ",'3nn melt('d \II hilt' chocolate. and process 10 blend. Add Ihe 631t 3nd lemo n

JUICC

and

process just t o comb i ne . Refrigerate Ihe pur�e forse\'eral houri. or up to

2 dayli. to firm, Trim the cdgc8 of the eref.es to sqlL3re them. Spoon one 61).th of the cooled fi lling 3crOS8 the lowcr lIunl of a cr�pe. al1ap mg It mlo a reclanglr approximately 5 inche8 by 2 lIIchu, Turn up the bottom of Ihe cr�pe to

encase the (i lli ng a nd genlly roll up the crcpe uuo a C)landt r. Holl the fllird c repe up in Illasllc wrap and IWlst the ('lids of the Wf3P to hdp 1II0id thr

sl1.1p(', ne llcat wnlt the rern:ll ntng ('r�lles anti (1Ihng. Pbcc tht' (lIl1liht'd crepcs ill the (reezer for at Icast a (ew houn or up to 2 \II eeks. ([ad 1 (rolcn crepe will scn'c 2 t0 3 people. depcntllngon Its lc nb'lh after tnmmlng.) F O R T H E CHOC OLATE SAUCt

Place 111(.' chocol:ate

11\ a ho", 1. Unng

the crcam and corn 8Yrup to a hoil . Pour Ihe hOI h'luitl o\'cr thc chocolate and ;lllow II to 81t for a (c..... rtllOUtC8 1o melt the chocoble. then IItir Ulltll slUooth. TIlC sauce can he re fnge rOi ted for sC\'cral tla}ll. TO C O M P LE T[

Rcmo\'c the ballall3 crc ilu frorn the fr IIllo :1 covered

296

yolks, gradually pour one third of the hot crcam mixture II\to the yolks to

hwh ('Ullc'r. 1'1:ll'C' till' rlJlR" III n K:luef!p:11I aflll :11111 Ihe poa('lulIK l"luld,

T h o frondl LO\.lfl d , v

C o o , lI o o ,

IIIgl1l hefore frcc1.lIlg ( ....hich . will result in thc crcamieSI lexturc) or frOlcn I JIlIllCdialcly,

Freez.e the icc cream to an l('t-Cf(,3111 m.:lclul1(, . tllt�n transfer It to 3 n

PIIlct' the' null. nour. and cnllnhl lll lllrcC' I'\t'I.3f,"(' 110\\11'\ I INl lhC'

nlt� IC(" ('rt'JIU IS

011 to 350ol� 111 :1 1'31l for dee l' fl')ln}; \\ Ilil a 2' . IUch nlUer, cut mH ')

airtight cont:uncr a n d place 11 111 t h e frec7cr to hudt'n

best eaten watlull a day hUI can he made sc\'ual dJ)s 3hc3d F O R TIn, C I t� ' h M O N T W I S T C O O K I [ S

011 a hghtl)' Oourcd aUffaCt',

roll tht puff pastry IIlIO a square 3pproxlI1I31c1y

G ITlrhC8 hy G IItcltt's

Llghlt) hnlsh the bottom h:M of the dough "'tlh tlic cgg gl:l'I.t' and SI)rinkle II ..... Ith the clIlnarnon sugar, FohJ Ihe 10 ) half of the dough O\'Cf 1 and roll the dough Into a rectangle ahout 10 mchefi hy 8 111(')1(,8 and I I. inch tluck, Place Ihe dOllgh on .. parchment !tned bakmgsitc-e1 311d c11111 for ahout an houf, or unUl l1 IS VClY firm, Prehcat the oven 10 375°F'. Stack 1\\0 haklng sitt'tts and line tht 10 1' onc wllh a P ICCC of p3rchmcm (1\\0 Ilans stacked togc-thc-r \\ III retiult 111

found!' from tltt" rlullC'd (:ml1n I lrt'tIKe' ('3('h tla"l h\ tllt' nour. pn.UHlt; off an ('x('('�s, dip 11110 the IIllll. 3tHi C031 II1 lh(' ('nunh.

rn I Itt" ('.;1kC'8. 3 1lt

a hlllC', for 2 10 3 1I\1I1UIU, Of \111111 �oldC'n ho.\\ I1, tumlnK thc-m UHr h3l(\\:I) throuKh tilt' COOt... l Ilg Tr:anlif("r IhC' ('ookt"u f.trlll:t IU pn.l'C'r IOhd" 10 liraln Ik ('t'n:"" th31 tlit' 011 rt'�0l1ll" the' proprr Ir mpefotlUTt" ht'furC' ;llltlIllK the nt"\1 h:u('h SpOOIl IiOIllt'

Ii

nip 11110 tlar ernlt"r of (":arh M('n IIIK I'I:uC' TUI) t"ott'll

pool of .)nl l) \\llh a hOI rartll3 (.. . t...t' . all �pplC' rinK, :uul :l 111It'orll(" (ltt't" pa�t' 214). or ,,('oop, of applr Icr trNIII l A"'lUl a ('onlle "�,Ulllit rOlrh dt'''Ilt"rt :UllI grrH' 1IIIIIIctilalrl).

morc even heat when bakmg). Cut Ihc dough crOSSWlbC Into II. IIlrh stnps, Slartlllg 111 the cenlCf of each Strip and worklllg to"ard the ends, t\\IIH tht" (Iough In 0ppolille d l recllons 10 form spifal- shaped cooklCii. Pl.:ace Ihe cookies on Ihe

P U f f

PASTay

doubled bakang IihcCli:I ;:and press Ihe endi:l do"" nat agalrlli! Iht' parchment so Ihe will hold thelr i:lh3!lc ;:antI 1101 UIl\\IIlt! ati the) hakeBake for20 t030 Ulllllileli. or ulltll lhccooklcsare goldl'n hro\\ n aml CriSp, Cooi slaghlly, then remove from the )Ian and l'UI off the nallened ('lu18, They can he lilored III an alfllghl contalller for a couple or da)8 F O R T ill C R E M E DE F A. R I N [

lllll' a ? Uleh bllunre haklng 1'3n \\1111

I (UP waler

O(TIUMP[

211.. (UP' ( 1 2 ounce1) oll.pu'po�

1100, 1 (UP ptU\

co'e

I IL'O'I)()On ",hllo

wlOd �1nc."Qor

B [ U R- R A G [

3 loble\pooc'I\ (4 OUncM)

I

l)QUod (�d un\OlIed bullvt

I I (UP ptU\ 3 loblc\poom ..

flour

plastiC \\ r:tp, Bring the \\atef, ClIlnalllon bliCk, htar aUlbe, :11111 allsplcr 10

I 10blt'\pooc'I

a bOll m a heav), medIUm saucepan, SUIIlIltr for I lI!lnule. IItCII relllO\t'

I tablc:1poon �UOO'

from the htat. Cover and allo\\ the SplCCS 10 stee l' for 5 IIllllUh'i:I

8 loble\poo,u (4 ounce\) cold

\her �h

(2 ounce,) oil IlU,po\e 11ou,

Floor IOf du\IIOQ

un\Ohed bullet, (ul lnto ,nlOli

Strain tht' IHJlud, JIIt'asurc 0111 3 cups, :nul rt'lurn It 10 till: hallcrpall Add the ,,::lit and hrlng 1 0 ::1 hOI I. Wllllik lng colll uolIll) . pour 111 Ihe brlll:t

pI«e\

and cook O\'cr low heat. stlrrlng collhlantty, fori, 10 II I1HnUlt·S, o r ulIlIl ll

the haklng pan Prcss.1 pu.'ce of pl::l!illt' \\r,lp oruo IItt' Mlrran' IC) pn'\t'lIl

, It '" IIII P'JfI,HII It) ;lIlIlI'r(' to thl' "lInll('11 r"IiIIlIK ! I IIif' \\ 1 1( 11 1I11It... I IIK Jlurf palllf) � CHI "ork, tflf' clflu�h \\11I 11('((IIn(' 111m" "Iulillt a .. llat'" Kllltf'1I

" skin froIII rOflllln� ::lIld dull the tn:fOt' tic' r3r1nC furat lt':lhI 3 houn., ur

flC'\f''''''h ,.III d thr IlIIltrr \\.lWIIt Hf'.. IIII� llit'" IluuKh III IIII' n'frlw·r.IIM

up 10 3 !Iii)".

Iwt" " f'1I milan/-( Ih" 1UI"fI!I 11110\\ri th,. Khll"l! tel rt'hl\ .lIlIt Ihl' 1III111'r II)

IS thlck('nl:d. Wlusk III tltl' hug"r. 1Il3bCarponc, ami hUller allli pour 11110

TO COMPtET £

If Ih('y\c bCl'n refrigerated, Imn� Iltt' apple flIIW' tel

room tt' lII lwralUrt'

flrlll

I hr ilion- )1111 lII"kr, liar hr:llt'f II frl'f'/('" \\1·11 .1 1111

lilt ( "' I

lIll(' II rllr IIlll1) IIth,.r dl�It" b

0. " . , 1

1?1

Sirt hoth nourI. thcl2lt. and sugu into a largc

10 inches. Place on a lray and clean the work surface. I f il is warm and

mixing howl. Add Ihe bUller .nd wilh your finge..., rub il inlo Ihe dry

the hUller seems 80ft. refrigerate it for 30 minutes berore continuing. F O R T H E F I R S T D O U B L E T U R N S Place the dough on the work

F O R T H l D [ T R l "" ' [

ingredlcll1s ror several minutel. unlil it is well Incorporated and the and mix with your hand. tlnd a rubbcr spalula jU81 unlil the dough come8

8urf01ce with 01 shan side f01cing you. Press down on the dough with the rolling pin. working from the top to the hallam to sct ils shape. Roll ihe

logelher, It should Ifill he . ,h.ggy m,", r'l lhe dough into.n 8-inell

dough. usingeven pressure. into a rectangle approximatcly 10 inches by

square on a piece or parehmcll1 ptlper. cover wilh a piece or plastic wrap.

20 inchcs. 1t is imponant lo keep the edges of the past I)' straight as you

piccts or bUller tlrc about the size or gravel . Add the Woller and vinegar

and rdrlserate while you make Ihe beurrage.

roll. or you will nol get even folds and the pasll)' will not rise as il should.

FOR

Place the bUller on .. cold surbee. 8ueh as a

As you roll. sprinkle the work surface ..... ith flour as necessary to prevent

fIIarhlc sinh. nnd Jlound II wll h :l rolling pin 10 l1I;jke it mallcable. Fold it

Slicking (use a brush to dust orr excess nour) and 31ways be carerul that

nu

UURRAG[

ovcr ilseM once or Iwlct and pound it again. Sprinkle the nour O\'er the

the butler does not stan to leak oul from the side8. If it does. scal the

hutler nnd usc n plastic dough scraper 10 cut the nour into Ihe butler.

hole and refrigerate the dough for several minutes before continuing.

Then IIIle Ihe htel or your hand 10 knead the mixture for alJOut 30

Fold over both short ends of the dough to meet in the center. then

lu:condK to combine! the bUller should hn\'e the Harne COlIsillle:ncy .18 the:

fold one side over the other to form four layers. Turn the dough 90

d�lrel11pt. Form tht heurragc 1010 a 6· inch 81luilrc. Cicilll lhc work surface and dust It with nour. I.,,'y the d�trempe on thcllurface tlnd mnrk a diamond Hhape ju it. fltanll1gat Ihe centerof each • ide,

OU81 1he dough lighlly with nour, noll oUl lhe edges (Ihe tri.ngles)

of the dough

flO

the points extend ahout 5 inchcs. leaving Ihe centcr

mound llllckcr thtln Iht: eelgc8. I.ay the hcurrnge on the diamond. adjUiulng its size to fit the dough

rdrlgerate it for I hour. FOR THE S E C O N D D O U B L E TUR N S

Place Ihe chilled dough on the

work surface with Ihe fold to the lert and roll and fold two more double turn8 38YOli did before. Wr.,p the dough and refrigerate again for at least 30 minutes.

Repeat the rolling and folding

all ncCtll8ary. FoM the dough napK over the heurr.agc. stretching Ihem and overJnpplng them all nCC�8fl31)' 10 10lally encalJe Ihe hUller anti form

FOR THE FINAL DOUBLE TURNS

n flquare packnge, Seal the edgcs hy pressing lightly with the rolling pin.

U8C. It call be cut into smaller pieces. wrapped well. and kept for a day in

Dust whh nour.

the refrigeralor or frolen for longer storage.

eelllly pre.. lhc pnck.ge lnlo. recl.ngle .pproximnlely 8 inches by

298

degrees to the Jeft. so that the fold is on your left. and roll and fold the pufr pa811)' Ihe same way a sccond lime. Wrap the dough i n plastic and

Tt.. F'on,h L a u n d t y Caakboo"

proce8s Iwo marc times for a total of 8ix turns. The puff pastry is ready to

.... ,, 1(( $ " . O U T 2 P O U N D S D O U G H

D. . . ."

299

ChocoJ u l (' Jlu n d u n t

w I t h C() rtL'L' C .'L·uln n n d

Choco l u t e

D(' l 1 t c i l C H

COOKIES

CHOCOLATE F O N DANT

GANACH E

SABLt

5 '12 ounces blnef1wCCf chocolato, chopped

2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

M A lt ' " 8 O O l ( N

1 4 tablespoons ( 7 ounces) unsolted butter.

1 loroo COO, separated

'/.. cup heo'IY crcom

'/.. cup suoor

C H O C O L AT E D E N T E L L E S

at room temperature

1/J cup sugar

7 tobl�poons (3'12 ounces) unsolted buttcr, 1 cup toosted sliced blanched almonds

1 loroo egO yolk

11" cup hco'IY cream

1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder

2V2 cups all.purpose flour

well softoned

2 toblO1poons very hot strong brewed coffee

2 tablespoons milk

2 largo CDO yolks, 01 room temperature

2 tablespoons COto syrup

'I, recipe 0�mo Mglolse (pogo 291)

'I.. cup curronts, soaked In hot water for oboo1 30

'/.. cup sUDor

1 1/2 teaspoons coffee extract

mlnutcs, or until plump, drained, and dr1cd

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsolted butler

(sec page 263), or to taste

'/.. cup toosled ,lIced. blanched almonds, finely chopped

T

h ill ill n heautlful chocolate dClIscrl fC.1turing a chocolate rondant,

.....aler. and he;:!t gently. stirring. ull1i1 mclted and smooth. Keep hot o\'er

which, nil J milk,· It, III like a mOUPIlie only lighter, creamier, more

the hot water.

rcnrH'd.

h'lI ;IIHU Ir'1I1I Htnille Ihan a mOUHII(' ;11111 ..... 111 hreak dnwn if If 'H left

In another metal howl, whisk Ihe cgg white until il hegins 10 hold a

111I1i recipc ;Ire not

shape. then gr.1llually whisk in the sugar. Continue 10 whip until the

0111 ror ton lonK, Although IIII' ll'chuIIllIeH IIKec) i n

dlrflCllh, It 'H Imper.,livc· Ihlll thl' IngrccllcnlK ror the fond:lIlt he at the proper leIllJwralurc'". I( not, Ihe mlxlUrt· Will MC'p;lr:uc and you will not lie ilhll1

III recornhlne it. Dente'lIt" "bee" I n French. refers here 10 the

Inc,. cookic, lrlllvt'd nnll "'slIug o n lOp or l'ach (ondant,

mcri llbruc holds il shape.

01 10 5 min utes,

Place Ihe sortcned hUller in a howl and whisk until it is smoolh and cream),. Place 111(: cream i n a medium bowl and .....hil) il lo sorl pcaks. Add the hOI co(ree 10 Ihe chocolate and stir to combine. (Bolh the

f O R ni t C It O CO L ATt F O N D A H T

Plncc' 6 rlOg llloldK (2 incheswldc

thc hu ..... 1 rronl Ihe heal and ICl the chocolate cool slightly. jusl enough so

Hheel, Al lhc c'ud n(t llC' ,,'eipe.yoll Will ,wed tH lII tc it hlowlorclr 10 rclc:Hit'

th:u when you :lIld I h ' hutler. it will combine \\ ilh rather Ihan mclt into

the rondrtnt rmlll the molds! If YOIl do not h:wc :l hlowtorch. Iinc thl'

Ihe chocolate! the chocolate should still be quite warm.

IIiNlele flf ench nng mold with a Mtnl) or clear aCt'tale (a\'allahlc at nrlitus'

Workrng (puckl),. whisk the eggyolks and then thc hUller into the

tUlJlpllc'K "lorcH) or with IHlrchllwlI1 p:II1I'r 10 ('nahle ),ou to lift of( the flug

chocolalt.'. Wllh a spalula. (oici I n the mCrl ngue and then the heavy

herore Mf·rviI1K.

cream. Add the currilnlS and almonds. 1I11xingjust to combine.

Pillet.' IIII' chucol:l1C 111 a melal 110\\1, liel it ovcr a saucep:m or hot

lOO

coffee and the chocolate must be hal. or the mixture will sclZe.) Rcmove

IIy 2 Incllell hlglll MCI' Sourc('Il, pngc :U5) o n II parchnwnl lined IHlking

T h e F ' o n c h Lound,y Coo�hoo�

Tra ns(er the fondant rl1lxturc 10 a pastry hag (without a tip) and pipe

into thc ring molds. (Piping r.llher tllJn spoolllng the IlIlxture hdl)S prc\'cn t :l I r pockcts III the fondant.) nle mIxture shouhl come to IhC' top

rool oIlKIIII) .

o f thc molds. Refrigerate the fond3nts for 3t l(,3st

did. III h�lf If lh(' roo},.I'" h:mle"n hdon" )ou c:m cut Ih(,nl. fC'lI1m th('1It

of the molds. USing an orfsct spatula. slnooth Ihe tO )s lc\C'1 \'ollh the rims I

-I hounl to fmll. TIlt

fondants can bc prepared 10 thiS POlIll anti rdngcral('d for up to 5 tJ aY8. then staled on the d3Y they \'0 III he sened: or they CJn he refngcr Jt('d jus I 10 firm, gtilled , and then refngeraled for UI) to 5 dJ li. FOR n

G A N AC H E

Put Ihe chocol31C H1 a Sm3lt Lo.... 1. lIe3t the ht'3\

cream to Just undcr a hall and pour 11 O\'er the ('hucobte Let 'Ht for ;1 minute to melt the chocolat '. then stir to cOlllblllt the gJnaehe, Remove the fondants from the rcfnger.lt oranll cO\'crlhe tOJl of (,3ch onc wllh a spoonful of slal,c. srnoOllllng II 10 the run of the mold.

II lihuliltI h�nlcll l l u a (C'\'o ,C'['oml, I\ctnou· titc pllH from th� O\C'1' :\1,,1 le'I Cut out lilt' �1("ntC'l1('" \\ 111t II 2 1"

mclt round ('\1II('f, tilcII rut C'ach

t o tht" ou'n to rt" Ofl('1l Lt-I Ih� clC'lItC'i1t"fi fool. Ihrn ,tore Ihrll\ ln a.n �Irtlghl COIII:U I1('r for up 10 2 ,13-" f O It

UI [

� "' l l

COOKI ( �

111t. n'(,I II«' " III

mlllt" :.1.0111 U "Oft"1l

COOLIC''', Although ntr;a h:.lccl coollt"" ('311 be" frtllt'II , for 11t'lIrr rt·fI,Ultli. freele Ihe ullt'ooLt"1I dou�h anti IIlrll h�L(' \'o h(,, 1 1 ,Irllirttl Thr

rrott"n

tlou�h \\ ,n L.et' 1' for "t"\ ('r31 \'0 (,t"L.s In a mixer hllC'll .... llh Iht" 1':"lllle '''';It'hllle'llt. crf'am tht' hllllH ttllt1 bUhrn r ullul Sl1Iouth I'ttal lht' t'KH \olL 31111 hC'al \\rll. IhC'II III" I n tltt' nour

ncfrtgcralc Ihe fondants for al leolbt I hour hefore licn'tng (see ahme)

unttl comlllllt'ti HCIIIU\(' Iht' tloliloth rrom Ihl:' minf nllli ,Il' "'" II Illtu

F O R T H E C H O C O L AT E O E N T E l L E S

q1l3rtCni Our 3t a t11lIe. pl:I[,(, r3eh portion un ::. lIu');(' I'lrcf' uf linrrliIIlC.'lIt

Pulse Ihe nuts anti cocoa III 3

food processor to break up the nuls. then process unhl the nulS . tiny IHlhhlt'8 will form :Jround Ihe 1.It'CIS, InlilC'allllg mOIt'llure III liIe clurs, As soon as Ihe mOiSlu re h:Js evaporated (al " Ilirli '01111, 111(' r1I1J1S 1 will be CflSp), thc cluJis \\ dl lilnk 10 Ihl' bOllom of the 1'01, HC'1II0\C Iht'lII a s t hcy do, tir:Jln on J>tlJlcr to\\c!s, anti spnnllc \\1111 I;alt Ket'l) tht' clull" al roOll1 lemperalUrc unlll serving, F O R T t! [ IJ l [

CH

Spoon some or Ihe halnUI S)rup 01110 l'ach S('f'\Ulg plale, Unrnold Ihl' cJkes :md Cclller olle. uJl&ldr do"" II. III c.'at It 1'0111 of TO

CaMP ET[

the syrup (dip Iht' molus III hal haler to loosen Iht, C'J�r8 If nt'r(, h�;II) , Arrange 2 c;uHiu'd \\.lII1UII; 011 OPPOSltl' Sides of c'3ch c.lle ami plaN' a scoop or ri liellcllc (sec.' page 27·1) of rcd bc.'et lcr err'am 1i('I\\ el.'lI Ih('1II

Stack

il lunall pile of heel chips o\'er the ICC cn'alll and bllflllllt' lht· clIII'S

wllh pQ\\dcred sligar

"' '' ' I ) 1 0 H . ... ".(,)

304

Tho French tounclr� Cookbook

Beginning

and

ending

After )OU nrl\'C at the Fr('nch uumh)' . 1 1 , " . It' " II '.. ' liP"'"

\1I1 I" 'Ie'II, 10 0 \\1' 10" " \1' 1 ''''111 " It II

" u ") h' "'"'( "

,W" " " . , I ' t ' '''') , . , " ,• ."

.

""' I I ' .. 1'111)11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 '

.I'- ' It.u , •. 11" ' 1 " ._,

0."."

107

' P E A N U T

B U T T E R

A N D

J E L L I E S '

d Sweet Poppers cnd Eggplont Cavlor 4 1 Gruybro Cheese Gouobrcs 48

with GcwlirZ1romlncr Jelly I 1 1 "Tongue In Cheek": Braised Beef Cheeks and Veal Tongue with Baby Leeks and Horseradish Cream 1 1 2 Eric's Stoff Losagno 1 1 6 Stoff Dressing 1 1 7

"Chips: and Dip": Potato Chlln with Truffla orp 48

f I 5 If

Parmlglano·Ragalana Crl�ps wiTh Goot Choose Mousse 49

Bulter·Poached Moine Lobster with Leeks,

Shrimp wUh Avocado SoI$O 50

r lJ l S T

Pommes Moxlm, and a Red Beet Esscnce 125 "Peas and Corrots": Moine Lobster Pancakes with Pea Shoot Salad

COURS[

Salad of Potlle Summer Tomaloes with Vlne·Rlpe Tomato Sorbot 56 Vlno·Rlpq Tomato Sorbet with Tomato Tartore and BasU 011 57 Solod of Globe Mlchokes wllh Gorden Herbs and G01pocho 62 Salad of Haricots Vcrts, Tomoto Tortore, and Chive 011 64 Heirloom Tomoto Tort wllh Nlr;olso Olivo Topcnode, Mhted Field Greens, and Basil Vlnolgrelle 66 Salmi of Dlock Minion Flos with Roo�tcd Sweet Peppers and Shovc:d Fennel 67 Heorls of Polm with Pordo of Morrow Beans and Field Grecns 70 Favo Bcon "onololll wllh Curry Emulsion 80 Sweet Palata "onololll whh Saoo Cream, Drown Duller, and Prosclullo 8 1 Chostnut I\ollololll with Fontlno and Colery Root Purco 82 Whllo Com 1\onololll with Summer Truffles 83

316

Worm Fruitwood·Smokcd Solmon wITh Pototo Gnocchl

Dungeness Crab Solad with Cucumber Jelly,

Cauliflower Panna Colla with Oolugo Covlor 22

"Ungulno" wlln 'Ilhlla Clom Souat

Tasting o f Potatoes with Block Truffles 86 Cotnoroll Rlsono with Shoved White Truffles from Alba 88

L I , . 01 R o c l p o ,

and Glnger·Carrot Emulsion

126

"Maco/onl and Oleesc": BUller-Poocht!d Moine Lobster with Croomy Lobster Broth and Moscorpone·Enriched Orlo 1 32 Five-Spiced Roosted Moine Lobster with Porl·Pooched Rgs and Saut�cd Moulord Duck Fole Gras 1 3 3 Pan·Roosted Moine Jumbo Scallops with Morel Mushrooms and Aspor09us Pu,� 136 Solman "Chops" with Celery and Block Truffles 1 3 7 Cltrus·Marlnated Salmon with a Conli! o f Novel Oranges, Deluga Caviar, and Pea Shool CouUs 140 "Clam Chowder"� Saut&!d Cod with Cod Cokes and Parsley Oil 142 Sauteed Atlantic Halibut with Summer Succotash and Rue-Scented Onion Giole 1 4 4 Block

Sea Doss with Sweet ParsnIps,

and Soffron.Vonlllo Sauce 146

Auowleof Spinach,

Pon·Roeslcd Slrlpcd

Bou wf1h Mkhok.e RoonoIi

Con.u Vccchlu .... ,!h Spked CoffOI Solod and Gokkn RoI\ln P\.Ir� 2042

and BariOOOlc Vinolgr
Ute de Molno ....,Ih �ut and Too\loo COIQ'oll'O'f Seed V1no�,otlo '.3

PocifIc Md wilh Fresh Soybeans, Seamon and Radish Solod, and Soy-Temple Orange Gloze 154 "Ash and Chips"· Rcd Muttet wilh a PoJcffO d'AiI Doux and Garlk ChIp"

P«()flno Temono ....lIh Roo,loo S� � and ArUOUki Coulls

156

Sponed SkolC Wino wIth Btals.ed Rcd Cabbage and Mu�ta,d Souce 1 6 1 "Surf and Turl" Souteed Monkfish Toll

wilh Brals.ed Oxtails, SoI�lIy, and � 162

M [ AT

"Coc\or Solod"

250

J\:mnlglona-Rt'Qglona Cu,tords with Romaine L�ttuco.

Anch<wy o...�ng. and pu,""""n Cri'!" 251

Roqu.:fOf1 TIllie ....,Ith F'ench Bonet Pteo, Relish 256 �a\l d" Breb's .... ·!th Fri� au.. Lordens 251

"SouP and Sand'l'lkh" Grilled Fafnlhou� Chfddo" Eal...,. Girl Too'lOto Con"""mO. and Bu"..· Fu\tl Nut 1011 with

J\.'()r Chlf» 292

ItOJ\C\"('(j Moscmpot\tl C u..om 294

"Condled APIlI,," Cronl4j dl} For/neJ .... lIh

Poodwd ApJ"� and leu CU."Om 296

Choc.oIolc Fondant .....Ih CoIf"..., Ct(.'Om ond Chocolale Oenlcllt." 300 Choc:oIolo Co�M ....1 111 Rt!'d 6«" Icc Cr,,'Om ond Toosted Walnut Sauce 302 "Pt.'.,,I1I IIullllt, I)

Couu V.«hlu .lth Ipktd coItal

lolod ond oold.n, 242

I" (flam at blu.bllr, lOUP chelloUIt, 264 65 ptPpcI' on, 1 8 1 ,0.IoH, 74, 7 8 79

ollkhe!." pon ,ooll.d ",I�d boll .llh

borlgoul. ,Inolguu, and. 1�2 5)

of bkH:!. "" ulorl l'o l .Ith ,oculH ,." t

IWppen oneS ,�ofll l__I, 67

tOf (OfPOCdo at ,..u.o..fln 1_ Hl(ohl, 96

O\IfIg'MU (fob,

.lth c"'\lmber ,.U'f,

OIOIn, mullolll _11\01;11111, and hh" 1.1111(1, 92

ond QCll potho. 61

01

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