Quality Characterisation of Apparel

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Quality characterisation of apparel

iii

Quality characterisation of apparel Dr Subrata Das

WOODHEAD PUBLISHING INDIA PVT LTD New Delhi

●

Cambridge

●

Oxford

Published by Woodhead Publishing India (P) Ltd. Woodhead Publishing India (P) Ltd., G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28, Ansari Road Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110 002, India www.woodheadpublishingindia.com Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Granta Park, Great Abington Cambridge CB21 6AH, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com First published 2009, Woodhead Publishing India (P) Ltd. © Woodhead Publishing India (P) Ltd., 2009 This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing India (P) Ltd. The consent of Woodhead Publishing India (P) Ltd. does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing India (P) Ltd. for such copying. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe. Woodhead Publishing India (P) Ltd. ISBN 13: 978-81-908001-3-6 Woodhead Publishing India (P) Ltd. EAN: 9788190800136 Typeset by Sunshine Graphics, New Delhi Printed and bound by Replika Press, New Delhi

Contents

Foreword Preface

ix xi

1

Introduction

1

1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4

Importance of quality characterisation Current scenario Essential elements of quality characterisation Role of regulatory and specialty tests in quality characterisation Customer satisfaction related to quality References

1 2 3 5 6 6

2

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels and related accessories

8

2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4

Introduction Protocols for apparel testing Various performance standards of fabrics used in apparel Various performance standards in apparel References

8 9 13 46 91

3

Benchmarking of quality in apparel

93

3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5

General requirements Flammability requirement of apparel for export Performance in colour fastness of apparel Characterisation of apparel durability Performance and functional properties of apparel References

93 95 96 98 98 101

1.5

vi

Contents

4

Importance of flammability, care label and fibre content of apparel

4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4

Essential standards and regulations Flammability Care labelling of garments Fibre products identification References

5

Safety issues for different accessories in children garment

5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10 5.11 5.12 5.13 5.14 5.15 5.16

Importance of safety issues Small parts – choking hazards Metal fasteners Zipper fasteners Dungaree clips (hasps) and sliders D-rings Functional and non-functional drawstrings, cords/ties Toggles Fixed bows Buttons Pom-poms and fringe Decorative trims and embellishments Bead Sequins Jewel Heat transfer diamante (rhinstone) and stud guidelines References

6

Case studies of safety review in children garment

6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5

Introduction Safety review Evaluation of restricted substances and hazardous components testing for children’s products General wearing apparel flammability requirements Children’s sleepwear/loungewear flammability requirements References

103 103 103 108 120 123

125 125 126 126 128 129 130 131 134 135 135 136 136 137 137 138 139 139

140 140 140 156 159 159 159

Contents

7

Product recall in children garment

7.1 7.2 7.3

Reason of product recall Case studies on product recall Necessity of recall References

8

Role of different stakeholders in the quality of apparel

8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5 8.6

Introduction Role of a retailer Role of a buying agent Role of a factory Role of a third party laboratory Concluding remarks References

vii

161 161 161 172 172

175 175 176 177 177 178 178 179

Foreword

The book is based on quality of various types of apparels, which are exportoriented. Characterisation of performance, durability, and colour fastness is covered along with mandatory regulations on flammability, fibre composition and care labels. Safety aspects of children’s apparel are very important and have been covered extensively in this book with different case studies on product review. The unique feature of this book is that the topics are oriented on actual practical way in which manufacturing units, buying agent and retailers are facing challenges on day-to-day basis in their business. This book is very rare on its topic selection and reflects the practical working knowledge of the author. To understand the quality-related issues in apparel and to solve the problem of failures in performance of a garment, this book would be of great use. This will help the apparel industry people to cut down qualityrelated rejections and also would be of an immense use for the freshers in the industry for good informative exposures. This book will be useful for textile/garment manufacturers, buying offices, retailers and the educational cluster of garment/fashion. C. Suresh Ex. QA Manager, Wal-Mart Global Procurement, India CEO Clothesmart Services, Bangalore

xi

Preface

This book arose out of a need, when interacting with the apparel fecundity at different parts of the world, for a comprehensive guideline on the quality of various merchandise products to which different stakeholders could be referred. The approach to the subject and the topics covered are those, which have been developed over the years on the global platform in apparel sectors by retailers and regulatory bodies. The apparel industry has had a long history of producing different merchandise products in accordance with the necessity of various classes of consumers and the nature of their utilisation. Due to this various quality parameters have been evaluated and benchmarked by following international standard norms to match the performance requirements of different apparel products. This book is then a distillation of these collective efforts and hopefully a concise document of wisdom inculcated over the years in the evaluation of quality of apparel. The book is aimed at textile and apparel industry professionals, retailers, factory heads, buying offices and students intending to join the industry in the areas of quality assurance. In order to produce and deliver better quality products to the customer adherence to the appropriate specification, standard, law and regulation applicable for the merchandise is important. Thus, the emphasis throughout the book is on standard and mandatory regulatory test methods. Many of the apparel merchandise benchmarked are intended to evaluate the same property but specification and regulation may vary because of their different export destinations. It is worthwhile to mention that when referring to any tests and regulations to consult an upto-date version of the relevant document. This is because the actual standard contains the detailed information, which is not possible to cover in a book of this nature, and furthermore international standards and regulations are constantly being revised and updated due to the change of performance expectations and better consumer protection. Safety of children’s apparel has been given more importance in quality during recent years by the apparel retailers in the globe but is the least

xii

Preface

discussed subject available in the published literature. The commitment towards this important aspect of quality is expected from the apparel manufacturers to supply and meet the requirement of global retailers. Failure to focus on the necessary safety issues results in product recall. Thus, the book covers about the use of different accessories, which can be attached in children’s apparel with the associated safety review product evaluation and, regulatory approaches. Date: 31st March, 2009 Place: Bangalore

Dr. Subrata Das Scientist “D” Central Silk Technological Research Institute, Central Silk Board, Bangalore, Karnataka, India

1 Introduction

Abstract: Global business in apparel sector is dependent on quality characterisation because major buyers want to ensure about the quality of the merchandise prior to the delivery to the consumers. The first chapter discusses the importance of product quality, which is dependent on fibre and fabric type, weight, style, finish, accessories used, country of export and above all the intended end use. The chapter then discusses about the essential elements, which are to be addressed as per internation al standard norms and the role of regulatory and specialty tests to build customer confidence, and to enhance profitability. Keywords: Quality, testing protocol, drycleaning, performance, safety

1.1

Importance of quality characterisation

In the apparel sector quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of finished garment. Product quality is assured in terms of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, colour fastness, durability, surface designs, garment construction and the final finished item. However, quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets. In today’s competitive business of apparel export, characterisation of quality is an important and indispensable aspect. Global standards in apparel are technology driven, benchmarked by the major buyers and ultimately product oriented 1. Tolerances in the degree of product proficiency can not be ignored since too slack standards may allow excessively inferior merchandise to pass through, whilst, standards that are too rigid and may result in acceptable merchandise being unnecessarily rejected. Thus, quality evaluation of garments as per international standard norms is essential for export. This is not only to ensure a quality product but also to endorse the product safety, prevent recalls, reduce returns, minimise customer complaints and promote repeat sales. It is well known that testing protocols are the summaries of applicable requirements, which cover all facets of

1

2


performance, evaluating safety and quality as well as labelled claims. Due to ever increasing fashion trend, different fibre, construction, style, colour and finish dominate the apparel world to cater to the requirements of various categories of customers. But, unfortunately, no single universal characterisation protocol is available in the garment trade to cover the entire product range. Testing protocol changes depending on the fibre and fabric type, weight, style, finish, accessories used, country of export and above all the intended end use of the product. It is also vital to bear in mind that all standards and regulations encapsulated in the protocol have one or both of the following aims: safety and quality. While quality is related more toward general consumer satisfaction, safety is an important concern as products not meeting regulations can jeopardize the health of the purchaser. Thus, characterisation of apparels that are earmarked for export is essential to satisfy both the regulation and performance requirement. Any deviation in production with respect to product specification and quality as per the required minimum performance standard goes against the interest of consumers; the ultimate end users whose expectation are always been regarded as vital in commercial decision-making process of an apparel retailer. Due to above consequences, the brand image gets affected owing to poor presentation and performance of an apparel product under question.

1.2

Current scenario

Apparel trade in post quota regime has transformed the business world to a global village. The old concept derived from four P(s) – product, price, place and promotion has been replaced with a new pattern, the four C(s) – consumer, cost, convenience and communication 2 . Undoubtedly, there is more competition on a level playing field since dependence on quota-profile is no more be an advantage of any country. To survive in this network, there is a paradigm shift toward attitude in working out strategies in the garment arena. Assurance of international standards, product innovation and adaptability to changing tastes of consumers are some of the areas of current interest. To win over apparel consumers, manufacturers, brands and retailers are struggling hard to identify ‘product value’. Undoubtedly, fashion sells, but only to a certain level, beyond which many consumers are searching values in apparel. Traditionally, ‘value’ has been defined as a function of price and quality3. There is a section of this niche market that is price conscious, but largely this section is also driven by brand awareness syndrome and would not mind to spend more to buy branded apparel of premium quality. Thus, today’s consumers are redefining value to include reliability of the

Introduction

3

product performance – they are asking whether product is assured in actual use or not. ● ● ● ● ●

Does the garment shrink? Will it loose colour? What about its durability? Will the garment torque? Are there any harmful substances in the garment?

These are some of the inevitable questions that need to be addressed in the real life situation on garment performance toward actual end use.

1.3

Essential elements of quality characterisation

Aesthetics in apparel are not desired to be sacrificed for durability and performance. But reverse is the case in various practical situations. Thus, when consumers buy apparels they suspect about the quality and expect some change in shape and colour after refurbishing. But the degree, to which this happens, entails the difference between satisfaction and disappointment. Prediction of such performance is only possible through comprehensive quality evaluation. Inherent properties of apparel are important to the consumer according to the application area. They may be highly specialised in nature, or otherwise normal and purely basic. But there is a core series of tests that are applicable to evaluate the product depending on the end use. There exist internationally recognised standards applicable in Europe and United States and broadly denoted as ISO, BS, EN, BS EN, DIN, ASTM, and AATCC. In addition, many other countries such as India, Australia, Japan, France and Canada regulate the quality evaluation through the standards. Even, some of the very reputed retailers around the world have their own standards and test methods, e.g. Marks & Spencer, J.C. Penny, etc. Methodology and equipment may or may not vary but basic objectives remain the same, i.e. appropriate checking of quality to predict the performance of the merchandise and by which one can determine the acceptance of the product or otherwise with reference to the expected minimum tolerance level.

1.3.1

Dimensional properties

A common concern in apparel performance characterisation is the dimensional stability. Accelerated test methods4–5 are applied to wash and dry at the recommended conditions, and careful measurement of any changes in dimensions determines the product ability to withstand the ‘care label’ recommendations. Side seam twisting or garment torque 6 for knitted goods is the most common problem, which can be quantified by appropriate

4


test method. Controversy arises while marking and taking measurement. Proper understanding of the test method, appropriate application and right interpretation of the test result are important to assure the desired characterisation.

1.3.2

Colour fastness properties

Apparel products fade due to various actions. It can be a particular problem with lower cost materials and processes, where insufficient care has been taken during dyeing, or sometimes because of the limitations of technology. In general, the tests measure the degree to which the colour changes when treated in a way that simulates the conditions of use such as washing7, drycleaning 8, water 9, perspiration 10, rubbing 11, chlorine and non-chlorine bleach 12, chlorinated water13 , light14, gas fume fading 15, ozone fading16 and print durability. Many tests also measure the degree of colour transfer on uncoloured fibres in the same environment. Keeping in view of the application of various linings and varieties of different fibre panel in the same apparel, the use of fibre types as per standard, namely acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic and wool, is an essential part in certain tests to judge staining behaviours. Selection of an appropriate testing standard and adherence to its methodology are of paramount importance in arriving at a conclusion of the suitability of apparel intended for a specified end use. Conditions required for testing fashion apparel fading when exposed to light are being different with respect to testing the fading of upholstery in a car interior. These different end uses need to be accounted for during quality evaluation, even though the fading of either product under their normal conditions of use will cause a problem.

1.3.3

Durability and surface appearance

Durability of a garment is another important criterion to predict its permanence in use. Consumer often enquires this fact before final selection of the apparel product. It is basically the power of a garment to resist stress or force. Test procedure typically subjects the material to stress of some kind and measures the amount of force at which it fails. Most common tests measure tensile17 , tear 18 and bursting strength 19 . Deterioration of surface appearance due to abrasion and pilling are other areas wherein customer dissatisfaction is quite common. This can not be ignored since often garments develop unsightly ball of fibre, which are noticed to the surface of the fabric. Sometimes those are of a slightly different colour from the main fabric and can ruin the wearability of the

Introduction

5

article. Pilling tests 20 provide the valuable guidance of the pilling performance of fabrics.

1.4

Role of regulatory and specialty tests in quality characterisation

Customers of 21st century are also safety and health conscious. Thus, it is well accepted that they will not mind to pay extra for this cause to have an additional protection. Specialised quality characterisation in apparel includes flammability, fibre composition, restricted harmful substances and performance tests such as water and oil repellence, stain resistance, bacterial resistance, or breathability, yellowing in storage, etc. Out of these, fibre composition test is more of a protective regulation against dishonesty. Consumer paying a high price for a silk garment would be most unhappy to discover that it was made of polyester. Protection of the consumer interest surely supplements by determining the fibre composition as per international standard methods of testing. The fibre content label required by Federal law in US to be permanently attached in each garment must indicate the percentage of each fibre present in the garment. Regulatory consumer product testing of flammability and restricted substances in adult and children apparel are important from the point of view of safety and health. If risk involved in wearing of a garment is known beforehand by flammability performance testing or clothing and analysed qualitatively and quantitatively for potentially harmful substances such as formaldehyde, harmful azo dyes or carcinogenic and allergenic dyes, heavy metal content, phthalates, PCP or TeCP and organotin compounds, it definitely protects the interest of consumers from different segments. Testing for harmful substances plays a significant role in the considerations made when buying textiles. This is demonstrated by the results of a trend analysis survey commissioned by the German OEKOTEX ® Certification Centre and carried out by the consulting firm BBE Retail Experts in the Netherlands, Austria, Switzerland, Portugal, Italy, France and Spain 21 . In opinions of the specialist retailers surveyed, product quality, social aspects, skin compatibility and testing for harmful substances were the most important parameters for customers when buying textiles and were regarded correspondingly by the retailers in their ordering behaviour. On a scale from 1 to 5, with 1 = unimportant to 5 = very important, these factors constantly received ratings ranging between 4.2 and 4.6. When asked about the significance of testing for harmful substances, the rating of 4.2 from Germany was consistent with the average of the ratings of the seven other European countries surveyed.

6


1.5

Customer satisfaction related to quality

In the apparel sector, it is well perceived that quality is a multi-dimensional aspect. There are many areas of quality, based on which the garment exporters are supposed to work. Quality of the production, quality of the design of the garment, quality of purchase, quality of final inspection, quality of the sales, quality of marketing of the final product are some of the important measures. But quality of the final product is ultimately integrated to customer satisfaction. Quality increases the value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds up reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn results to build consumer confidence, high sales and foreign exchange for the country22. It is worthwhile to mention that the responsibility of production of appropriate quality garment and right characterisation as per international standard norms lies with different agencies such as retailer, buying agent, vendor and consumer testing service laboratory associated with garment business.

References 1. DAS S. (2008), ‘Salient features of quality evaluation’, Apparel Views, 7, 65–67. 2. CULLIS DAVID (2005), ‘Managing apparel warehouses’, Express Textiles, 10, 9. 3. DAS S. (2005), ‘Value addition to garment’, Apparel Views, 4, 22–23. 4. AATCC test method 135 Dimensional changes of fabrics after home laundering. 5. AATCC test method 150 Dimensional changes of garments after home laundering. 6. AATCC test method 179 Skewness change in fabric and garment twist resulting from automatic home laundering. 7. AATCC test method 61 Colorfastness to laundering: accelerated. 8. AATCC test method 132 Colorfastness to drycleaning. 9. AATCC test method 107 Colorfastness to water. 10. AATCC test method 15 Colorfastness to perspiration. 11. AATCC test method 8 Colorfastness to crocking. 12. AATCC test method 172 Colorfastness to powdered non-chlorine bleach in home laundering. 13. AATCC test method 162 Colorfastness to water: Chlorinated pool. 14. AATCC test method 16 Colorfastness to light. 15. AATCC test method 23 Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes. 16. AATCC test method 109 Colorfastness to ozone in the atmosphere under low humidities. 17. ASTM D 5034 Standard test method for breaking strength and elongation of textile fabrics (Grab Test). 18. ASTM D 1424 Standard test method for tearing strength of fabrics by fallingpendulum (Elmendorf-type) apparatus. 19. ASTM D 3786 Standard test method for bursting strength of textile fabrics— Diaphragm bursting strength tester method. 20. ASTM D 3512 Standard test method for pilling resistance and other related surface changes of textile fabrics: Random tumble pilling tester.

Introduction

7

21. OEKO-TEX News, edition 01, 2009, Test for harmful substances play significant role in considerations for textile buyers. Available from: www.oeko-tex.com [Accessed on 13 February 2009]. 22. DOSHI GAURAV (2008), Quality control aspects of garment export. Available from: http://Ezine.Articles.com [Accessed on 12 February 2009].

8


2 Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels and related accessories

Abstract: This chapter discusses performance standards of fabrics and apparels in characterisation of various merchandise products as per their specific application areas and which are acceptable to the retailers in the globe. The chapter first highlights minimum characteristics of varieties of fabrics such as construction, durability, colour fastness, etc., which are essential for its effective use in the garment. The chapter then discusses the performance of a garment in respect of the seams used in different positions of a garment, size and fit properties, appearance, application of accessories, and attachment of various decorations to judge the performance in intended area of application. Key words: fabrics, apparels, construction, durability, colour fastness

2.1

Introduction

Importance of mechanical and physical properties of fabrics in the clothing manufacturing process1 has been the subject of many recent investigations in the apparel sector. Testing is essential to characterise the quality of fabrics and apparels. Performance standards cite the test procedures to be used in testing those items. Testing may be done in-house or by an independent third party laboratory. But one must adhere to the effective test method for evaluation of the product. The interpretation of the test results will help identify conformance to the standard or otherwise. Fabric performance specifications for various properties and for various end items have been developed. It is true that the buyer and seller must mutually arrive at performance specifications for various properties of an item, i.e. apparel under consideration. Some reputed retail store chains have their own standard for various clothing items, and also the test methods to be used are indicated by them. In spite of all the test methods and available test data, the interpretation of test results, sometimes governed by a quality decision, are driven by commercial cause.

8

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels…

9

The protocol in an apparel testing is a summary of requirements of performance, safety, quality and labelled claims. Different parameters are involved in sub-division of different test protocols. Merchandise category and fabric quality govern such type of characterisation. While some properties are common for different protocols, additional inputs are essential to properly designate the characteristics of apparel. The matrix of different protocols for apparels and accessories 2 is discussed here.

2.2

Protocols for apparel testing

Label verification: ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Country of origin Fibre content Care labelling Registration (RN) number Size Copyright verification Stuffed articles label (Canada)

Identification tests: ● ● ● ● ●

Fibre analysis Yarn size Fabric count Fabric weight Fabric construction

Washability: ● ●

Dimensional stability Appearance in laundering (includes self-staining, torque, skew, trim/ seam durability, trim/garment compatibility, puckering, raspy hand, pill/fuzz, etc.)

Strength and performance tests: ● ● ● ● ● ●

Tensile (woven) Tear (woven) Bursting (knit) Seam strength/stretchability Pocket strength Snap/zipper strength

10 ● ● ●


Stretch and recovery for elastic item Pilling Pile retention (corduroy)

Colourfastness tests: ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Laundering/drycleaning Chlorine bleach Non-chlorine bleach Crocking Light Perspiration (Lining or skin contact) Ozone and burnt gas fume (Indigo and white)

Other required tests: ● ● ●

Flammability pH(washed items) Azo colourants (European requirement)

Additional test for technical outerwear/rainwear: ● ● ● ●

Water repellency Water resistance Coating verification Breathability

Additional test for infant garment: ● ● ● ●

Heavy metal/lead content on surface paints/coating Formaldehyde content Colour fastness to saliva (under 36 months) Children safety construction review (includes small parts, sharp object, drawstring, etc.)

Additional test for intimate and sleepwear: ● ● ● ●

Flammability (children sleepwear) Yarn slippage Colour fastness to perspiration Stretch and recovery for elastic band

Additional test for sweaters: ● ●

Garment weight Neck stretch

Additional test for swimwear:

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… ●

11

Colour fastness to seawater, water, chlorinated pool water

Additional test for down fill product: ● ● ● ● ● ●

Air permeability Down proofness Down/feather labelling requirement Fill power Turbidity Oxygen number

Additional test for wrinkle resistant garment: ● ● ●

Formaldehyde content Flex abrasion Durable press rating

2.2.1

Protocols for zippers, buttons and snaps testing

General properties: ● ● ● ●

Heavy metals (painted surface) Lead content (all surface coating) Nickel leaching (skin contact only) Formaldehyde (zipper, button: children under 3 years)

Visual testing: ●

Manufacturing qualities (zipper, snap)

Strength/durability properties: ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Appearance after laundering/drycleaning Zipper strength Button and snap strength Resistance to corrosion (metal only) Impact resistance (button) Centre strength (button) Ligne size (button) Thickness (button)

2.2.2

Common testing protocols

Testing protocols which are common for woven, knitted, leather/suede and apparel-related accessories such as belts, caps, ear muffs, gloves, hats, neckties, scarves, headbands, etc. are given below:

12


Woven apparel: (i) Woven natural cellulosic fabrics (50% or more) predominantly made out of cotton, linen, hemp, ramie, jute and blends; (ii) Woven man-made cellulosic origin (50% or more) predominantly made out of Acetate, lyocell, modal, rayon (cuprammonium and viscose), rayon from bamboo (bamboo rayon), triacetate and blends; (iii) Woven man-made synthetics (50% or more) predominantly made out of acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, aramid, olefin (polyethylene and polypropylene), polyester, spandex, vinal, vinyon and blends; (iv) Denim (v) Woven pile fabrics, i.e. corduroy, terry cloth, velvet, velveteen and other pile fabrics are given below: ● Fabric weight ● Thread count ● Dimensional stability ● Appearance retention ● Skewing ● Tensile strength ● Tearing strength ● Seam strength (production seams) ● Stretch properties (Stretch direction only) ● Colour fastness Knitted apparel: ● ● ● ● ● ●

Fabric weight Dimensional stability Appearance retention Skewing Bursting strength Colour fastness

Leather/suede apparel: ● ● ●

Dimensional stability Appearance retention Colour fastness

Apparel-related accessories such as belts, caps, ear muffs, gloves, hats, neckties, scarves, headbands, etc.: ● ● ●

Fabric weight Thickness Dimensional stability

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… ● ● ●

2.3

13

Appearance retention Seam strength (production seam) Colour fastness

Various performance standards of fabrics used in apparel

Quality of a fabric plays an important role for specific use in garment 3. The selection of a fabric to be used in merchandise depends on various physical and chemical parameters. The characteristics of the fabric depend on the type of construction method. Some are more durable than others. The yarns per inch in a fabric are a direct indication of quality. Higher yarn count translates into a higher quality fabric. Higher twist yarns in a fabric are stronger, indicating higher quality fabrics. The fabrics used for interfacings are supportive and build shape and stability in small areas. The fabrics used for underlining add support and durability to the fashion fabric. They are usually decorative and construction details are also important to become compatible with the base fabric. Supportive fabrics should be fastened securely, finished appropriately, and should not influence the base fabric to wrinkle or distort. Linings should be caught at shoulder seams to prevent slippage and pulling3. Linings and fashion fabrics should have compatible care requirements. All of these are significant factors and contributed to the quality of the garment. Fabric testing prevented poor quality garments from being marketed that might otherwise have resulted in damage to the brand image of the companies involved. Different test methods are available to evaluate the properties of the fabrics used in the garment. It is worthwhile to mention that such properties are determined and compared with the minimum performance standard. The desired standard is benchmarked according to the nature of fabric. Though the performance standard exists for different varieties of fabrics4, it is normally expected that fabric quality will not only fulfil the standard but also exceed the minimum requirement. Minimum performance standards of woven top- and mid-weight fabrics of broadcloth, muslin, percale, chambray, poplin, taffeta, rayon blend, top- and mid-weight apparel, 100% cotton sheeting, 100% rayon and rayon rich challis, crepe, rib weave fabric, taffeta, lightweight twill fabrics, Indian madras fabrics, 100% cotton seersucker, 100% cotton texture weaves, i.e. monks cloth, waffle weave, momie, woven gauze fabrics, voile fabrics, pigment printed flannel shirting fabrics, yarn dyed flannel shirting fabrics, stretch twills and denim, bottom weight twills, duck and canvas (≥8 oz/sq yd), bottom weight denim (≥8 oz/sq yd), corduroy, velveteen and velvet fabrics

14


(includes flocked velvet), woven terry cloth and chenille fabrics, wool blend, lining fabrics, woven silk fabrics, knit silk fabrics, chief value cellulose (CVC = 51% or greater cellulose) jersey and interlock fabrics, chief value synthetic (CVS = 51% or greater synthetic) jersey, interlock knit fabrics, chief value cellulose (CVC = 51% or greater cellulose) rib knit fabrics, chief value synthetic (CVS = 51% or greater synthetic) rib knit fabrics, stretch knit fabrics with spandex, CVC knit fleece, French terry fabrics, CVS knit fleece, french terry and polar type fleece fabrics, thermal knit fabrics, texture knit novelties (pebble, popcorn, waffle and other texture knits formed using dropped stitches to create open effects), chief value synthetic (CVS) warp knit fabrics, knit CVS swimwear and woven swimwear fabrics are described in detail from Table 2.1 to Table 2.31. Table 2.1 Minimum performance standards for woven top and mid-weight fabrics – broadcloth, muslin, percale, chambray, poplin, taffeta, rayon blend Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Adult sleepwear

Requirements

AATCC 20-A Must be 100% No foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1

Children's sleepwear

Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Tensile (breaking) strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance

3 × 3%

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine and/or Non-chlorine bleach

Test methods

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135 & 150 ASTM D5034/5035

20 lbs/in. 25 lbs/in. ASTM D1424/2261 1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

ASTM D3886 ASTM D3514 AATCC 143 AATCC 61, 132

Class Class Class Class

4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0

MTL S-1003 (contd.)

15

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… Property Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light option 3 Regular fabrics 100% Nylon - regular colors Neon/Fluorescent/Bright colours

100% Polyester - regular colours Neon/Fluorescent/Bright colours

Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash (must bear advisory hangtag)

Requirements

Test methods AATCC 15

Class 4.0 Class 3.0 AATCC 16, Class 4.0 min @ 20 Class 4.0 min @ 10 Class 4.0 min @ 20 Class 4.0 min @ 10 Class 3.0 min @ 10 (Note: Outerwear Class 2.5 - 2.0 requires hangtag) Class 4.0 min @ 20 Class 4.0 min @ 10 Class 3.0 min @ 20 (Note: Outerwear Class 2.5 - 2.0 requires hangtag)

h h h h h

h h h

AATCC 8/116 Class 4.0/3.0 Class 4.0/3.0

Note: Crocking and bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one-half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.2 Minimum performance standards for top- and mid-weight apparel 100% cotton sheeting Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements

Test methods AATCC 20-A

Must be 100% no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ± 5% ASTM As approved sample ± 5% ASTM As approved sample ASTM No major defects ASTM Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Tensile (breaking) strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater)

5 × 5%

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135 & 150 ASTM D5034/5035

20 lbs/in. 25 lbs/in. (contd.)

16


Property

Requirements

Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Seam strength/slippage ¼"

1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs 50 cycles

Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater) Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance

Test methods ASTM D1424/2261

10 lbs 15 lbs Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Class 3.0 Staining/Bleeding Class 3.0 Self-staining Class 4.5 Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Class 3.0 Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Class 4.0 Staining Class 3.0 Colour fastness to light Class 4.0 min @ 20 h Class 4.0 min @ 10 h Crocking Dry/Wet - original Class 3.5/2.0 Dry/Wet - after one wash Class 3.5/2.0 (must bear advisory hangtag)

ASTM D3886 ASTM D1683/ 434 MOD.

ASTM D3514 AATCC 143 AATCC 61, 132

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3 AATCC 8/116

Table 2.3 Minimum performance standards for 100% rayon and rayon rich challis, crepe, rib weave, taffeta and lightweight twill fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing Children's sleepwear Dimensional stability (3 home laundering) (commercial dry cleaning) Tensile (breaking) strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd)

Requirements


Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1 Pass

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135 & 150

5 × 5% 2 × 2% ASTM D5034/5035 20 lbs/in. (contd.)

17

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… Property

Requirements

Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance

25 lbs/in.

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light


1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs 25 cycles Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

ASTM D3886 ASTM D3514 AATCC 143 AATCC 61, 132


4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0

Class 4.0 Class 3.0 Class 4.0 min @ 20 h

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3

Class 4.0 min @ 10 h Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash

AATCC 8/116 Class 4.0/3.0 Class 4.0/3.0 (must bear advisory hangtag)

Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one-half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.4 Minimum performance standards for Indian madras fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing Children’s sleepwear Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Tensile (breaking) strength

Requirements


Must be 100% – no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ± 5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1 16 CFR-1610 Pass

8 × 8%

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135 & 150 ASTM D5034/5035 (contd.)

18


Property

Requirements

Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Seam strength/Slippage ¼”

20 lbs/in. 25 lbs/in.

Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Pilling resistance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

Test methods

ASTM D1424/2261 1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs ASTM D3886 25 cycles 50 cycles ASTM D1683/ 434 MOD. 15 lbs 20 lbs Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Colour fastness ratings

ASTM D3514 AATCC 61, 132


3.0 2.0 4.5 3.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3

Class 4.0 min @ 10 h Crocking Dry/Wet – original Dry/Wet – after one wash


Table 2.5 Minimum performance standards for 100% cotton seersucker Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing Children's sleepwear

Requirements


Must be 100% no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1 Pass

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 (contd.)

19


Requirements

Test methods

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Tensile (breaking) strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance

5 × 5%

AATCC 135 & 150

Pilling resistance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

ASTM D5034/5035 20 lbs/in. 25 lbs/in. ASTM D1424/2261 1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Colour fastness ratings

ASTM D3886 ASTM D3514 AATCC 61, 132


4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3


AATCC 8/116 Class 4.0/3.0 Class 4.0/3.0 (Must bear advisory hangtag)

Note: Crocking and bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one-half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.6 Minimum performance standards for 100% cotton texture weaves i.e. monks cloth, waffle weave, momie etc. Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing Children's sleepwear

Requirements



ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 (contd.)

20


Property Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd orgreater) Tensile (breaking) strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Pilling resistance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

Requirements

Test methods AATCC 135 & 150

8 × 8% 6 × 6% ASTM D5034/5035 25 lbs/in. 30 lbs/in. ASTM D1424/2261 1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs ASTM D3886 25 cycles 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Colour fastness ratings



4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3

Class 4.0 min @ 10 hs Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash


Table 2.7 Minimum performance standards for woven gauze fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing Children's sleepwear Dimensional stability (3 home launderings)

Requirements



ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990


(contd.)

21


Requirements

Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tensile (breaking) strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater)

7 × 7% 5 × 5%

Pilling resistance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

Test methods

ASTM D5034/5035 20 lbs/in. 25 lbs/in. ASTM D1424/2261 1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs ASTM D3886 25 cycles 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 minutes Colour fastness ratings



4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3



Table 2.8 Minimum performance standards for voile fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements


Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Cotton/Synthetic blends

3% × 3%

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990


(contd.)

22


Property

Requirements

100 % Cotton fabrics

5% × 5% (must fit labelled size range)

Tensile (breaking) strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Pilling resistance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or nonchlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

Test methods

ASTM D5034/5035 20 lbs/in. 25 lbs/in. ASTM D1424/2261 1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs ASTM D3886 25 cycles 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Colour fastness ratings



4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15


AATCC 16, option 3



Note: Crocking and bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one–half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.9 Minimum performance standards for pigment printed flannel shirting fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements



ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 (contd.)

23


Requirements

Test methods


Pass

Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 &

5 × 5%

AATCC 135 & 150

25 lbs/in 3.0 lbs 50 cycles

ASTM D5034/5035 ASTM D1424/2261 ASTM D3886

Class 3 @ 30 min

ASTM D3514

1616 Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Tensile (breaking) strength Tear resistance Abrasion resistance Appearance ratings Pilling resistance Colour fastness ratings Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

AATCC 61, 132 Class Class Class Class

3.0 3.0 4.5 3.5


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3



Table 2.10 Minimum performance standards for yarn dyed flannel shirting fabrics Property Fibre content Single fiber Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Tensile (breaking) strength Tear resistance Abrasion resistance

5 × 5%

Pilling resistance


25 lbs/in. 3.0 lbs 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 minutes

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135 & 150 ASTM D5034/5035 ASTM D1424/2261 ASTM D3886 ASTM D3514 (contd.)

24


Property

Requirements

Test methods

Colour fastness ratings Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light


4.0 3.0 4.5 3.5


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3



Table 2.11 Minimum performance standards for stretch twills and denim Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements


Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Torque/Twisting Tensile (breaking) strength Tear resistance Abrasion resistance pH balance (Garment wash programs) Seam strength/Slippage ¼"

3 × 3%


5% (Based on length) 25 lbs/in. 3.0 lbs 100 cycles pH between 6 and 8

AATCC 179 ASTM D5034/5035 ASTM D1424/2261 ASTM D3886 AATCC 81

25 lbs/in.

ASTM D1683/ 434 MOD.

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to laundering Shade alteration Staining

Class 1

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 min Class SA 3.5 Colour fastness ratings


Class 4.0 Class 4.0 (contd.)

25


Requirements

Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

Class 3.0 Class 4.5 Class 4.0 Class 4.0 Class 3.0 Class 4.0 min @ 20 h

Test methods

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3



Table 2.12 Minimum performance standards for bottom weight twills, duck and canvas (> 8 oz/sq yd) Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements

AATCC 20-A Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Torque/Twisting

3 × 3%

Tensile (breaking) strength Tear resistance Abrasion resistance

pH balance (Garment wash programs) Seam strength/Slippage ¼"

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to Laundering-

Test methods

5% (based on length) 25 lbs/in. 3.0 lbs Unwashed 500 cycles Garment washed 200 cycles pH between 6 and 8 30 lbs/in. Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135 & 150 AATCC 179 ASTM D5034/5035 ASTM D1424/2261 ASTM D3886

AATCC 81 ASTM D1683/ 434 MOD. ASTM D3514 AATCC 143 AATCC 61, 132 (contd.)

26


Property

Requirements

Shade change Class 4.0 Staining Class 4.0 Bleeding Class 3.0 Self-staining Class 4.5 Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Class 4.0 Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Class 4.0 Staining Class 3.0 Colour fastness to light Class 4.0 min @ 20 h Class 4.0 min @ 10 h Crocking Dry/Wet - original Class 4.0/2.0 Dry/Wet - after one wash Class 4.0/2.0 (must bear advisory hangtag)

Test methods

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15


Table 2.13 Minimum performance standards for bottom weight denim (> 8 oz/sq yd) Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements

AATCC 20-A Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Torque/Twisting Tensile (breaking) strength Tear resistance Abrasion resistance

3 × 3%

pH balance (Garment wash programs) Seam strength/Slippage ¼"

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to laundering

Test methods

5% (based on length) 50 lbs/in. 3.0 lbs Unwashed 500 cycles Garment washed 200 cycles pH between 6 and 8 Unwashed 50 lbs/in.

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135 & 150 AATCC 179 ASTM D5034/5035 ASTM D1424/2261 ASTM D3886

AATCC 81 ASTM D1683/ 434 MOD.

Garment washed 40 lbs/in. Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min ASTM D3514 Class SA 4 AATCC 143 Colour fastness ratings AATCC 61, 132 (contd.)

27


Requirements

Shade change Staining Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to Light

Class Class Class Class Class

4.0 3.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


Test methods

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3



Note: Minimum performances standards apply to finished fabric/ garment; i.e., after stone/acid/enzyme wash, etc. Table 2.14 Minimum performance standards for corduroy, velveteen and velvet fabrics (includes flocked velvet) Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing Children's sleepwear Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) (commercial dry cleaning) Tensile (breaking) strength Tear resistance Pile retention (cut pile fabrics only) Fabrics (less than 7.0 oz/sq yd)

Fabrics (7.0 oz/sq yd or greater)

Requirements



5 × 5% 2 × 2% 25 lbs/in. 3.0 lbs Appearance Ratings

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990



Face : Class 3 @ 300 cycles Back : Class 3 @ 50 cycles Face : Class 3 @ 300 cycles (contd.)

28


Property

Requirements

Test methods

Back : Class 3 @ 100 cycles After wash appearance (After dry cleaning or 3 home launderings) Pile appearance/Retention

Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

AATCC 135 No appreciable picking or bare spots Colour fastness ratings AATCC 61, 132 Class Class Class Class

3.5 3.0 4.5 3.5


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3



Table 2.15 Minimum performance standards for woven terry cloth and chenille fabrics for garment Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements



ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990


Pass

Dimensional stability (5 and 10 home launderings) Tensile (breaking) strength Tear resistance Appearance ratings Pile retention (cut pile fabrics only) Fabrics (less than 7.0 oz/sq yd)

7 × 5%


25 lbs/in. 3.0 lbs


Face: Class 3 @ 300 cycles (contd.)

29


Fabrics (7.0 oz/sq yd or greater)

After wash appearance (After 10 home launderings) Seam durability Pile Appearance/Retention

Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to Light

Requirements

Test methods

Back: Class 3 @ 50 cycles Face: Class 3 @ 300 cycles Back: Class 3 @ 100 cycles AATCC 135 No raveling No appreciable picking or bare spots Colour fastness ratings AATCC 61, 132 Class Class Class Class

3.5 3.0 4.5 3.5


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, option 3



Table 2.16 Minimum performance standards for wool blend Property

Requirements

Fibre content Single fibre

AATCC 20-A Must be 100% – no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% ASTM D3776 As approved sample ±5% ASTM D3775/ 3887 As approved sample ASTM D1059 No major defects ASTM D3990

Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Class 1

Children’s sleepwear

Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Woven fabrics Knit fabrics

3 × 3% 5 × 5%

Test methods


(contd.)

30


Property

Requirements

Commercial dry cleaning Tensile (breaking) strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Bursting strength (Knit fabrics) Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Seam strength/Slippage ¼”

2 × 2%

Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Appearance ratings Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness ratings Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self-staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light Class 4.0 min @ 10 h Crocking Dry/Wet – original Dry/Wet – after one wash


20 lbs/in. 25 lbs/in. ASTM D1424/2261 1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs ASTM D3786 40 psi 55 psi 50 cycles


15 lbs 20 lbs Class 3 @ 30 min Class SA 4

ASTM D3512/ 3514 AATCC 143 AATCC 61, 132


4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15


Class 4.0/3.0 Class 4.0/3.0 (must bear advisory hangtag)

Note: Crocking and bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one-half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.17 Minimum performance standards for lining fabrics Property

Requirements


AATCC 20-A Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% ASTM D3776

Multi-fibre Fabric weight

Test methods

(contd.)


Requirements

Thread count

As approved sample ±5% ASTM D3775/ 3887 As approved sample ASTM D1059 No major defects ASTM D3990

Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Woven fabrics Knit fabrics Commercial dry cleaning Differential shrinkage (between shell and lining) Tensile (breaking) strength

3 × 3% 5 × 5% 2 × 2% 2%

Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Tear resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Bursting strength (Knit fabrics) Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Seam strength/Slippage ¼" Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz/sq yd or greater) Pilling resistance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine and/or non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash

31

Test methods


ASTM D5034/ 5035 20 lbs/in. 25 lbs/in. ASTM D1424/2261 1.5 lbs 3.0 lbs ASTM D3786 40 psi 55 psi 25 cycles

15 lbs 20 lbs Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Colour fastness ratings


ASTM D3512/3514 AATCC 61, 132


4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


4.0 3.0 4.0 min. @ 20 h 4.0 min. @ 10 h

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15



Note: Crocking and bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one-half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted.

32


Table 2.18 Minimum performance standards for woven silk fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Slubs, holes, misweaves, etc. may not be discernible from one foot way Fabric weight definition Heavy Medium Light Sheer Flammability Clothing

Requirements


Must be 100% - No Foreign Fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

Ounces/square yard > 4.1 2.6 - 4.0 1.6 - 2.5 < 1.5

Momme > 31.5 20.5 - 31.4 12.6 - 20.4 < 12.5

Class 1



Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Commercial dry cleaning Tensile (breaking) strength - Heavy/Med. - Light - Sheer Tear resistance - Heavy/Med. - Light - Sheer Abrasion resistance - Heavy/Med. - Light - Sheer Seam strength/Slippage ¼"

5% × 5%

D3776 D3775 D1059 D3990

2% × 2% ASTM D5034/5035 20 lbs/in 15 lbs/in 10 lbs/in ASTM D1424/2261 2.0 lbs 1.5 lbs 1.0 lbs ASTM D3886 50 cycles 25 cycles N/A

15 lbs 10 lbs 10 lbs Appearance ratings After wash appearance Good after wash (After dry cleaning or 3 launderings) appearance Colour fastness ratings Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Class 4.0 Staining/Bleeding Class 2.5 Self staining Class 4.5

ASTM D1683/ 434 MOD.

- Heavy/Med. - Light - Sheer

AATCC 135

AATCC 61, 132

(contd.)

33


Requirements

Test methods

Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light Option 3 Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash

Class 4.0

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

Class 4.0 Class 3.0 Class 4.0 min. @ 10 Hours AATCC 16, AATCC 8/116 Class 4.0/2.0 Class 4.0/2.0 (must bear advisory hangtag)

Table 2.19 Minimum performance standards for knit silk fabrics Property

Requirements


AATCC 20-A Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% ASTM D3776 As approved sample ± 5% ASTM D3887 As approved sample ASTM D1059 No major defects ASTM D3990

Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Slubs, holes, misweaves, etc. may not be discernible from one feet way. Fabric weight definition Heavy Medium Light Sheer Flammability Clothing

Test methods

Ounces/square yard > 4.1 2.6 - 4.0 1.6 - 2.5 < 1.5

Momme > 31.5 20.5 - 31.5 12.6 - 20.4 < 12.5

Class 1



Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Commercial dry cleaning Bursting strength - Heavy/Med. - Light - Sheer Abrasion resistance - Heavy/Med. - Light - Sheer Seam elongation - Heavy/Med.

5% × 5% 2% × 2%

ASTM D3786 50 psi 40 psi 30 psi ASTM D3886 50 cycles 25 cycles N/A ASTM D1683 50% elongation or 7.0 lbs tension (contd.)

34


Property

Requirements

- Light

30% elongation or 6.0 lbs tension Appearance ratings Good after wash appearance AATCC 135

After wash appearance (After dry cleaning or 3 launderings)

Test methods

Colour fastness ratings Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light Option 3 Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash


4.0 2.5 4.5 4.0

Class 4.0 Class 3.0 Class 4.0 min. @ 10 hours

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, AATCC 8/116


Table 2.20 Minimum performance standards for chief value cellulose (CVC = 51% or greater cellulose) jersey and interlock fabrics Property

Requirements


AATCC 20-A Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ± 5% ASTM D3776 As approved sample ± 5% ASTM D3887 As approved sample ASTM D1059 No major defects ASTM D3990

Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Torque/Twisting Bursting strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater)

7% × 7% 5% of length

Test methods

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135/150 AATCC 179 ASTM D3786

40 psi 55 psi ASTM D3886 25 cycles 50 cycles (contd.)

35


Requirements

Test methods

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance

Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 minutes Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

ASTM D3512 AATCC 143

Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light


4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Option 3

Class 4.0 min. @ 10 hours Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash


Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.21 Minimum performance standards for chief value synthetic (CVS = 51% or greater synthetic) jersey and interlock knit fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements


Must be 100% - No Foreign Fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ± 5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Torque/Twisting Bursting strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd)


ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3887 D1059 D3990


40 psi 55 psi ASTM D3886 25 cycles (contd.)

36


Property

Requirements

Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater)

50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 minutes Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self Staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

Test methods



4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Option 3



Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.22 Minimum performance standards for chief value cellulose (CVC = 51% or greater cellulose) rib knit fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements


Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ± 5% As approved sample ± 5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Torque/Twisting Bursting strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd)

7% × 10% 5% of length

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3887 D1059 D3990


40 psi 55 psi ASTM D3886 25 cycles (contd.)

37


Requirements

Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater)

50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 minutes Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

Test methods



4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Option 3



Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.23 Minimum performance standards for chief value synthetic (CVS = 51% or greater synthetic) rib knit fabrics Property Fibre content Single fiber Multi-Fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements


Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ± 5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Torque/Twisting Bursting strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater) Abrasion resistance


ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3887 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135 AATCC 179 ASTM D3786

40 psi 55 psi ASTM D3886 (contd.)

38


Property

Requirements

Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater)

25 cycles 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 minutes Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspirationShade change Staining Colour fastness to light Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash

Test methods



4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


4.0 3.0 4.0 min @ 20 h 4.0 min @ 10 h

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Option 3 AATCC 8/116


Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.24 Minimum performance standards for stretch knit fabrics with spandex Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements




Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) CVC CVC rib CVS CVS rib Torque/Twisting Bursting strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd)

8% 8% 6% 6% 5%

× 8% × 11% × 6% × 9% of length

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3887 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135

AATCC 179 ASTM D3786

40 psi (contd.)

39


Requirements

Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater)

55 psi

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change/Staining Colour fastness to sea water Shade change/Staining Colour fastness to chlorinate pool water Shade change Colour fastness to light Regular colours Neon/Fluorescent/Bright colours

Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash

Test methods ASTM D3886

25 cycles 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 minutes Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings



4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

Class 4.0/3.0 AATCC 106 Class 4.0/3.0 AATCC 162 Class 4.0 AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 min @ 20 h Class 4.0 min @ 10 h Class 3.0 min @ 10 h (Note: Class 2.5 - 2.0 requires hangtag) AATCC 8/116 Class 4.0/3.0 Class 4.0/3.0 (must bear advisory hangtag)

Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.25 Minimum performance standards for CVC knit fleece and French terry fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability

Requirements


Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ± 5% As approved sample ± 5% As approved sample No major defects

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3887 D1059 D3990

(contd.)

40


Property

Requirements

Test methods

Clothing

Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Torque/Twisting Bursting strength Abrasion resistance

8% × 8%



5% of length 55 psi 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 minutes Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

AATCC 179 ASTM D3786 ASTM D3886 ASTM D3512 AATCC 143 AATCC 61, 132


4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Option 3



Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.26 Minimum performance standards for CVS knit fleece, French terry and polar type fleece fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements



ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3887 D1059 D3990

Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 (contd.)

41


Requirements

Test methods


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Torque/Twisting Bursting strength

5% × 5%

Must comply with 16 CFR-1615 & 1616 AATCC 135 & 150

Pilling resistance

Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light

5% of length 55 psi Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 min (Good after wash appearance) Colour fastness ratings

AATCC 179 ASTM D3786 ASTM D3512


4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Option 3



Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.27 Minimum performance standards for thermal knit fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing Children's sleepwear Dimensional stability (3 home launderings - must restore to fit)

Requirements



ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3887 D1059 D3990


(contd.)

42


Property

Requirements

Chief Value Cotton Chief Value Synthetic Torque/Twisting Bursting strength Abrasion resistance

10% × 10% 7% × 7% 5% of length 55 psi 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 min Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings


Test methods

AATCC 179 ASTM D3786 ASTM D3886 ASTM D3512 AATCC 143 AATCC 61, 132


4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Option 3



Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.28 Minimum performance standards for texture knit novelties (pebble, popcorn, waffle & other texture knits formed using dropped stitches to create open effects) Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing Children's sleepwear Dimensional stability (3 home launderings - must restore to fit)

Requirements


Must be 100% - No foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ± 5% ASTM As approved sample ± 5% ASTM As approved sample ASTM No major defects ASTM Class 1 Pass

D3776 D3887 D1059 D3990


(contd.)

43


Requirements

Test methods

CVC CVC rib CVS CVS rib Torque/Twisting Bursting strength Abrasion resistance

8% × 8% 8% × 11% 6% × 6% 6% × 9% 5% of length 55 psi 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 3 @ 30 min Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings

AATCC 179 ASTM D3786 ASTM D3886

Pilling resistance Smoothness appearance Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change Staining Colour fastness to light Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash



4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


4.0 3.0 4.0 min @ 20 h 4.0 min @ 10 h

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Option 3 AATCC 8/116


Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.29 Minimum performance standards for chief value synthetic (CVS) warp knit fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Clothing

Requirements


Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ± 5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1


Pass

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings)

5% × 5%

ASTM ASTM ASTM ASTM

D3776 D3887 D1059 D3990


(contd.)

44


Property

Requirements

Test methods

Torque/Twisting Bursting strength Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater) Abrasion resistance Fabrics (less than 3.5 oz/sq. yd) Fabrics (3.5 oz./sq. yd or greater)

5% of length

AATCC 179 ASTM D3786


40 psi 55 psi ASTM D3886 25 cycles 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 min Class SA 4 Colour fastness ratings



4.0 3.0 4.5 4.0


MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

AATCC 16, Option 3



Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.30 Minimum performance standards for knit CVS swimwear fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability Dimensional stability (3 home launderings must restore to fit) Torque/Twisting Bursting strength

Requirements


Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ±5% As approved sample ±5% As approved sample No major defects Class 1 5% × 5%

ASTM D3776 ASTM D3887 ASTM D1059 ASTM D3990 Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 AATCC 135 & 150

5% of length 55 psi

AATCC 179 ASTM D3786 (contd.)

45


Requirements

Test methods

Abrasion resistance

50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 minutes No change following laundry, perspiration or static water testing Colour fastness ratings

ASTM D3886

Pilling resistance Elasticity/Recovery

Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change/Staining Colour fastness to sea water Shade change/Staining Colour fastness to chlorinate pool water Shade change Colour fastness to light Regular colours Neon/Fluorescent/Bright colours (Note: Class 2.5 - 2.0 requires hangtag) Crocking Dry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash

ASTM D3512

AATCC 61, 132 Class 4.0 Class 3.0 Class 4.5 Class 4.0 (when appropriate)

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

Class 4.0/4.0 AATCC 106 Class 4.0/4.0 AATCC 162 Class 4.0 AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 min @ 20 h Class 4.0 min @ 10 h Class 3.0 min @ 10 h


Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted. Table 2.31 Minimum performance standards for woven swimwear fabrics Property Fibre content Single fibre Multi-fibre Fabric weight Thread count Yarn structure Defects Flammability

Requirements


Must be 100% - no foreign fibre ±3.0% of stated fibre content As approval sample ± 5% ASTM D3776 As approved sample ± 5% ASTM D3775 As approved sample ASTM D1059 No major defects ASTM D3990 Class 1 Must comply with 16 CFR-1610 (contd.)

46


Property

Requirements

Test methods

Dimensional stability (3 home launderings) Tensile (breaking) strength Tear resistance Abrasion resistance

3% × 3%

AATCC 135 & 150

25 lbs/in 3.0 lbs 50 cycles Appearance ratings Class 4 @ 30 minutes No Change following laundry, pool water & sea water testing Colour fastness ratings


Pilling resistance Elasticity/Recovery

Colour fastness to laundering Shade change Staining/Bleeding Self staining Chlorine &/or Non-chlorine bleach Colour fastness to perspiration Shade change/Staining Colour fastness to sea water Shade change/Staining Colour fastness to chlorinate pool water Shade change Colour fastness to light Regular colours Neon/Fluorescent/Bright colours (Note; Class 2.5 - 2.0 requires hangtag) CrockingDry/Wet - original Dry/Wet - after one wash

ASTM D3514

AATCC 61, 132 Class 4.0 Class 3.0 Class 4.5 Class 4.0 (when appropriate)

MTL S-1003 AATCC 15

Class 4.0/4.0 AATCC 106 Class 4.0/4.0 AATCC 162 Class 4.0 AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 min @ 20 h Class 4.0 min @ 10 h Class 3.0 min @ 10 h


Note: Crocking & bleeding ratings requirements are for light and medium shades. Requirements are reduced one half class for dark shades and pigment prints except when otherwise noted.

2.4

Various performance standards in apparel

The performance of a garment is regulated by the right quality of fabrics used in the engineering of merchandise. It depends on the seams used in different positions of a garment, size and fit properties, appearance, application of accessories, and attachment of various decorations to judge the performance in actual end use. At each stage of garment engineering, appropriate control measures ensure the production of right quality of


47

apparel for its intended application area. Thus, various apparel performance parameters are described according to their category of application 5.

2.4.1

Woven shirts, tops and blouses

1. Fabric Fabric construction As approved/contracted (±5%) Flammability Class 1 (Must comply with 16 CFR part16106 or ASTM D12307) 2. Garment construction ● ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

●

● ● ● ● ● ●

Pockets. They will be uniform in size and placed evenly or aligned. Seams. They must be finished and back tacked at ends. No untrimmed threads are allowed. They must be free from puckering and correct tension shall be used. Stitching. Thread must be colourfast, no broken top stitches and open seams. Darts. They must be uniform in length and shape. There shall be no puckering or bubbles. Stress points. They must be bar tacked or reinforced as necessary. Interfacing. They must have compatible shrinkage to shell fabric and must lie flat. Buttons. They must be securely fastened and colourfast. Button holes must be compatible and completely stitched around. Snaps, rivets and trims. They must be securely fastened, reinforced and no corrosion after 1 hour at rest in laundry machine after one home laundry cycle. Elastic and ribbing. They must extend to fullest width of fabric without breaking stitches. Tunnelled elastic must be stitched down to prevent twisting and rollover. No exposed elastic is allowed. Stripes and plaids. They must match at all seams unless otherwise specified. Plackets. No puckering at seams, especially at bottom or base is desired. Hems and edge finishing. They must be even with no raw edges. Needle cutting. Correct needle size and type for fabric are required. No needle cuts are expected. Zippers. Correct duty zipper for garment is necessary. No bulging or wavering on tape is allowed. Ends of tape must be securely fastened. Drawstrings. They must be secured/finished at both ends.

48


Children’s garments: There must be no hood or neck drawstrings on garments size 2T-12. Waist/Bottom drawstring on age grades 2T-16 may not exceed 3 in. in length outside the drawstring channel when garment is expanded to its fullest width. No toggles, knots or attachments at the free end are allowed. Drawstrings must be bar tacked at centre back so string cannot be pulled out. ● ●

Pile fabrics. There must be no press marks and no crushed pile. Painted hardware. There should be less than 0.06% lead by weight 8.

3. Care labelling These items must meet all requirements of the care labelling rule. Provision of practical care instructions is required. ● ● ● ●

All care labels must remain legible and securely attached through the laundering cycle and for the life of the garment. Labelling will be determined by the testing lab upon completion of all colorways of actual production sample. All trims and hardware must be able to withstand selected care method. Labels must be bi-lingual (English/Spanish).

4. Product labelling The garment must be labelled with ● ● ● ● ●

Brand name Fibre content Garment size Country of origin RN# or WPL#; or the name and address of the manufacturer or distributor.

5. Size and fit ●

Technical designer shall verify and approve as per desired specification.

6. Performance standards (a) Fabric performance properties. Appropriate fabric performance standards as mentioned in section 2.3. (b) Seam performance properties

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… Test Woven seams Fabric 3.5 oz/sq yd

Method ASTM D 1683

49

Requirement 9

– 15 lbs/in. 20 lbs/in.

(c) Strength at stress points and of applied decorations Test

Method

Reinforced stress points Applied decorations (i) for 18-month age and up (ii) for under 18-month age Pocket strength (i) Under 8 oz/sq yd

ASTM D 1683(Modified) ASTM D 1683 (Modified)

(ii) Over 8 oz/sq yd

Requirement 20 lbs 15 lbs min @ 10 s 10 lbs min @ 10 s

ASTM D 1683(Modified) Non-functional Functional Non-functional Functional

10 15 10 20

lbs lbs lbs lbs

(d) Button and snap strength properties Test

Method

Requirement

Anchored strength (i) for 18-month age and up (ii) for under 18-month age Button impact resistance

ASTM D 1683(Modified)

Snap/Desnap

ASTM D 484611

15 lbs min @10 s 10 lbs min @10 s 5.5 in oz (no failure noted) Opening 2–5 lbs Closing 2–10 lbs

MTL S-100110

(e) Zipper strength properties Test

Method

Seams Top/Bottom Stop (open and closed position)

ASTM D 2061(Modified)12

Requirement 20 lbs 15 lbs

(f) Appearance Appearance tests include the change in garment appearance after repeated washings. This includes, but is not limited to ●

Corrosion resistance (metal hardware)

● ●

Lead content of painted hardware Ironing (If recommended)

●

Dimensional stability

Must display no corrosion < 0.06% No colour change Good appearance Good shape retention Shrinkage within tolerance

50


●

Fabric smoothness and recovery

●

Hardware (Buttons, snaps or zippers)

●

Button holes, trims or hems Twisting/torque of seams

● ● ● ● ● ●

Seam Needle cut Frosting, pilling and snagging Elasticised areas Differential shrinkage

Retention of original properties No chipping, discoloration or rusting No fraying or ravelling Less than 5% of side seam length No openings No needle cut No objectionable change No deterioration No more than 2% between shell and lining

(g) Smoothness appearance Test

Method

Fabric Seam appearance

AATCC 14313 AATCC 143

2.4.2

Requirement Class 4 Class 3

Knit shirts, tops and blouses


● ● ●

Pockets. They will be uniform in size and placed evenly or aligned. Seams. They must be finished and back tacked at ends. No untrimmed threads are allowed. They must be free from puckering appropriate tension and seam type shall be used. They must stretch with fabric without breaking. Shoulder seams. They must be taped or reinforced unless otherwise specified. Stitching. Thread must be colourfast. No broken top stitches, open seams and breakage are allowed when fabric is fully extended. Darts. They must be uniform in length and shape and no puckering or bubbles.

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… ● ● ● ●

●

● ● ● ● ● ●

51

Stress points. They must be bar tacked or reinforced as necessary. Interfacing. They must have compatible shrinkage to shell fabric and must lie flat. Buttons. They must be securely fastened and colourfast. Button holes must be compatible and completely stitched around. Snaps, rivets and trims. They must be securely fastened, reinforced and no corrosion after 1 hour at rest in laundry machine after one home laundry cycle. Elastic and ribbing. They must extend to fullest width of fabric without breaking stitches. Tunnelled elastic must be stitched down to prevent twisting and rollover. No exposed elastic is allowed. Stripes and plaids. They must match at all seams unless otherwise specified. Plackets. No puckering at seams is allowed, especially at bottom or base. Hems and edge finishing. They must be even with no raw edges. Needle cutting. Correct needle size and type for fabric are necessary. Ball point needles should be used with knits to prevent needle cutting. Zippers. Correct duty zipper for garment is necessary. No bulging or wavering on tape is allowed. Ends of tape must be securely fastened. Drawstrings. They must be secured/finished at both ends.


Pile fabrics. There must be no press marks and no crushed pile. Painted hardware. There should be less than 0.06% lead by weight.

3. Care labelling These items must meet all requirements of the Care labelling rule. Provision of practical care instructions is required. ● ● ● ●

All care labels must remain legible and securely attached through the laundering cycle and for the life of the garment. They will be determined by the testing lab upon completion of all colorways of actual production sample. All trims and hardware must be able to withstand selected care method. Labels must be bi-lingual (English/Spanish).

52




5. Size and fit ●


6. Performance standards (a) Fabric performance properties. Appropriate fabric performance standards as mentioned in section 2.3. (b) Seam performance properties Test

Method

Knit and non-woven seams Fabric 3.5 oz/sq yd

–

Requirement – 30% Elongation or 6 lbs Tension 50% Elongation or 7 lbs Tension


Method

Reinforced stress points Applied decorations (i) for 18-month age and up (ii) for under 18-month age Pocket strength

ASTM D 1683(Modified) ASTM D 1683(Modified)

Requirement 20 lbs 15 lbs min @ 10 s 10 lbs. min @ 10 s

ASTM D 1683(Modified) Non-functional Functional

5 lbs 10 lbs

(d) Snap and button strength properties Test

Method

Anchored strength (i) for 18-month age and up (ii) for under 18–month age Button impact resistance


Snap/Desnap

MTL S-1001 (no failure noted) ASTM D 4846

Requirement 15 lbs min @10 s 10 lbs min @10 s 5.5 in oz Opening 2–5 lbs Closing 2–10 lbs


53


Method

Seams Top/bottom stop (open and closed position)

ASTM D 2061(Modified) –


(f) Appearance Appearance tests include the change in garment appearance after repeated washings. This includes, but is not limited to ● Corrosion resistance Must display no corrosion (metal hardware) ● Lead content of painted hardware < 0.06% ● Ironing (If recommended) No colour change Good appearance Good shape retention ● Dimensional stability Shrinkage within tolerance ● Fabric smoothness and recovery Retention of original properties ● Hardware (Buttons, snaps or No chipping, discoloration zippers) or rusting ● Button holes, trims or hems No fraying or ravelling ● Twisting/torque of seams Less than 5% of side seam length ● Seam No openings ● Needle cut No needle cut ● Frosting, pilling and snagging No objectionable change ● Elasticised areas No deterioration ● Differential shrinkage No more than 2% between shell and lining.

2.4.3

Sweaters

1. Fabric Fabric construction As approved/contracted (±5%) Flammability Class 1 (Must comply with 16 CFR part1610 or ASTM D1230 required) 2. Garment construction ●

Seams. They must be finished and back tacked at ends. No untrimmed threads are allowed. They must be free from puckering appropriate tension and seam type shall be used. They must stretch with fabric without breaking

54 ● ● ● ● ● ●

●

● ● ●


Stretch and recovery. Fabric must stretch as per specification and recover to original shape. Shoulder seams. Stretch knits must be taped or reinforced unless otherwise specified. Stitching. Thread must be colourfast with no broken top stitches, open seams and no breakage when fabric is fully extended. Stress points. They must be reinforced or bar tacked as necessary. Buttons. They must be securely fastened and colourfast. Button holes must be compatible and completely stitched around. Snaps, rivets and trims. They must be securely fastened, reinforced and no corrosion after 1 hour at rest in laundry machine after one home laundry cycle. Elastic and ribbing. They must extend to fullest width of fabric without breaking stitches. Tunnelled elastic must be stitched down to prevent twisting and rollover. No exposed elastic is allowed. They must be restored to body size after dry cleaning or home laundering. Stripes, patterns and plaids. They must match at all seams unless otherwise specified. Plackets. No puckering at seams is allowed, especially at bottom or base. Drawstrings. They must be secured/finished at both ends.

Children’s garments: There must be no hood or neck drawstrings on garments size 2T-12. Waist/Bottom drawstring on age grades 2T-16 may not exceed 3 in. in length outside the drawstring channel when garment is expanded to its fullest width. No toggles, knots or attachments at the free end are allowed. Drawstrings must be bar tacked at centre back so string cannot be pulled out. ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Hems and edge finishing. They must be even with no raw edges. Pockets. They must be uniform in size and placed evenly or aligned. Needle cutting. Correct needle size and type for fabric are required. Ball point needles should be used with knits to prevent needle cutting. General appearance. No visible snags, runs, or loose yarns and holes at colour changes/joinings are allowed. Zippers. Correct duty zipper for garment is necessary. No bulging or wavering on tape is allowed. Ends of tape must be securely fastened. Pile fabrics. There must be no press marks and crushed pile. Painted hardware. There should be less than 0.06% lead by weight.

3. Care labelling These items must meet all requirements of the care labelling rule. Provision of practical care instructions is required.

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… ● ● ● ●

55


4. Product labelling The garment must be labelled with ● ● ● ● ● ●

Brand name Fibre content Garment size Country of origin RN# or WPL#; or the name and address of the manufacturer or distributor. Labels must be bi-lingual (English/Spanish)

5. Size and fit ●

Technical designer shall verify and approve as per requirement.

6. Performance standards (a) Fabric performance properties. Appropriate fabric performance standards as mentioned in section 2.3. (b) Seam performance properties Test

Method



Method


ASTM D 1683 (Modified) ASTM D 1683 (Modified)


ASTM D 1683 (Modified) Non-functional Functional

5 lbs 10 lbs

56



Method


ASTM D 1683 (Modified)

MTL S-1001

Snap/Desnap

ASTM D 4846

Requirement 15 lbs min @10 s 10 lbs min @10 s 5.5 in oz (no failure noted) Opening 2–5 lbs Closing 2–10 lbs


Method




(f) Appearance Appearance tests include the change in garment appearance after repeated washings. This includes, but is not limited to ● ● ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Corrosion resistance (metal hardware) Must display no corrosion Lead content of painted hardware < 0.06% Ironing (If recommended) No colour change Good appearance Good shape retention Dimensional stability Shrinkage within tolerance Fabric smoothness and recovery Retention of original properties Hardware (Buttons, snaps or zippers) No chipping, discoloration or rusting Button holes, trims or hems No fraying or ravelling Twisting/torque of seams Less than 5% of side seam length Seam No openings Needle cut No needle cut Frosting, pilling and snagging No objectionable change Elasticised areas No deterioration Differential shrinkage No more than 2% between shell and lining.


2.4.4

57

Woven slacks, pants and shorts

1. Fabric Fabric construction As approved/contracted (±5%) Flammability Class 1 required (Must comply with 16 CFR part1610 or ASTM D1230) 2. Garment construction ● ●

● ● ● ● ●

●

● ● ● ●

●

Pockets. They will be uniform size and placed evenly or aligned. Seams. They must be finished and back tacked at ends. No untrimmed threads are allowed. They must be free from puckering and correct tension shall be used. Stitching. Thread must be colourfast, no broken top stitches and open seams. Darts. They must be uniform in length and shape. There shall be no puckering or bubbles. Stress points. They must be bar tacked or reinforced as necessary. Buttons. They must be securely fastened and colourfast. Button holes must be compatible and completely stitched around. Snaps, rivets and trims. They must be securely fastened, reinforced and no corrosion after 1 hour at rest in laundry machine after one home laundry cycle. Elastic and ribbing. They must extend to fullest width of fabric without breaking stitches. Tunnelled elastic must be stitched down to prevent twisting and rollover. No exposed elastic is allowed. Stripes and plaids. They must match at all seams unless otherwise specified. Hems and edge finishing. There must be even with no raw or unfinished edges. Needle cutting. Correct needle size and type for fabric are required. No needle cuts are expected. Zippers. Correct duty zipper for garment is necessary. No bulging or wavering on tape is allowed. Ends of tape, slider and teeth must be securely fastened. Drawstrings. They must be secured/finished at both ends.

Children’s garments: There must be no hood or neck drawstrings on garments size 2T-12. Waist/Bottom drawstring on age grades 2T-16 may not exceed 3 in. in length outside the drawstring channel when garment is expanded to its fullest width. No toggles, knots or attachments at the free

58


end are allowed. Drawstrings must be bar tacked at centre back so string cannot be pulled out. ● ●

Pile fabrics. No press marks and crushed pile are allowed. Painted hardware. It must be less than 0.06% lead by weight.



4. Product labelling The garment must be labelled with Brand name ● Fibre content ● Garment size ● Country of origin ● RN# or WPL#; or the name and address of the manufacturer or distributor ●

5. Size and fit ●


6. Performance standards (a) Fabric performance properties – Appropriate fabric performance standards as mentioned in section 2.3. (b) Seam performance properties Test

Method

Woven seams (i) Fabric 3.5 oz/sq yd (iii)10 oz or greater denims and twills (felled or double stitched seams)

ASTM D 1683

Requirement 15 lbs/in. 20 lbs/in. 50 lbs/in.


59


Method

Reinforced stress points Applied decorations (i) for 18-month age and up (ii) for under 18-month age Pocket strength (i) Under 8 oz/sq yd Functional (ii) Over 8 oz/sq yd

ASTM D 1683(Modified) ASTM D 1683(Modified)


ASTM D 1683(Modified) Non-functional 15 lbs Non-functional Functional

10 lbs 10 lbs 20 lbs


Method



Snap/Desnap Closing 2–10 lbs

MTL S-1001 ASTM D 4846

Requirement 15 lbs min @10 s 10 lbs min @10 s 5.5 in oz (no failure noted) Opening 2–5 lbs


Method


ASTM D 2061(Modified) ASTM D 2061


(f) Appearance Appearance tests include the change in garment appearance after repeated washings. This includes, but is not limited to: ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Good dimensional stability. Retention of fabric smoothness and recovery properties. No chipping, discoloration or rusting of hardware. No fraying or ravelling of button holes, trims or hems. No twisting of seams. No seam openings or needle cuts. No objectionable frosting, pilling and snagging. No deterioration of elasticized areas. No deterioration of buttons, snaps or zippers. Torque shall be less than 5% of side seam length. Differential shrinkage difference shall not be more than 2% between shell and lining.

60



Method

Fabric Seam appearance Crease retention

AATCC 143 AATCC 143 AATCC 143

2.4.5

Requirement Class 4 Class 3 Class 4

Knit slacks, pants, and shorts


● ● ● ● ●

●

● ● ●

Pockets. They will be uniform in size and placed evenly or aligned. Seams. They must be finished and back tacked at ends. No untrimmed threads are allowed. They must be free from puckering and correct tension shall be used. They must be stretched with fabric without breaking. Non-stretch knits must be taped (unless otherwise specified), or reinforced. Stitching. Thread must be colourfast, no broken top stitches and open seams. Darts. They must be uniform in length and shape. There shall be no puckering or bubbles. Stress points. They must be bar tacked or reinforced as necessary. Buttons. They must be securely fastened and colourfast. Button holes must be compatible and completely stitched around. Snaps, rivets, and trims. They must be securely fastened, reinforced and no corrosion after 1 hour at rest in laundry machine after one home laundry cycle. Elastic and ribbing. They must extend to fullest width of fabric without breaking stitches. Tunnelled elastic must be stitched down to prevent twisting and rollover. No exposed elastic is allowed. Stripes and plaids. They must match at all seams unless otherwise specified. Hems and edge finishing. They must be even with no raw edges. Needle cutting. Correct needle size and type for fabric are necessary. Ball point needles should be used with knits to prevent needle cutting.

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… ●

●

61

Zippers. Correct duty zipper for garment is necessary. No bulging or wavering on tape is allowed. Ends of tape, slider and teeth must be securely fastened. Drawstrings. They must be secured/finished at both ends.

Children’s garments: There must be no hood or neck drawstrings on garments size 2T-12. Waist/Bottom drawstring on age grades 2T-16 may not exceed 3 in. in length outside the drawstring channel when garment is expanded to its fullest width. No toggles, knots or attachments at the free end are allowed. Drawstrings must be bar tacked at centre back so string cannot be pulled out. ● ● ● ●

Pile fabrics. There must be no press marks and crushed pile. Painted hardware. It must be less than 0.06% lead by weight. Pile fabrics. There must be no press marks and crushed pile. Painted hardware. There should be less than 0.06% lead by weight




Brand name Fibre content Garment size Country of origin RN# or WPL#; or the name and address of the manufacturer or distributor

5. Size and fit ●


62



Method



Method





5 lbs 10 lbs


Method



MTL S-1001

Snap/Desnap

ASTM D 4846



Method





Corrosion resistance (metal hardware) Must display no corrosion Lead content of painted hardware < 0.06% Ironing (If recommended) No colour change


● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

63

Good appearance Good shape retention Dimensional stability Shrinkage within tolerance Fabric smoothness and recovery Retention of original properties Hardware (Buttons, snaps or zippers) No chipping, discoloration or rusting Button holes, trims or hems No fraying or ravelling Twisting/torque of seams Less than 5% of side seam length Seam No openings Needle cut No needle cut Frosting, pilling and snagging No objectionable change Elasticised areas No deterioration Differential shrinkage No more than 2% between shell and lining


Method


AATCC 143 AATCC 143

2.4.6


Woven dresses, jumpers, rompers and skirts


● ● ● ●

Pockets. They will be uniform in size and placed evenly or aligned. Seams. They must be finished and back tacked at ends. No untrimmed threads are allowed. They must be free from puckering and correct tension shall be used. Stitching. Thread must be colourfast, no broken top stitches and open seams. Darts. They must be uniform in length and shape. There shall be no puckering or bubbles. Stress points. They must be bar tacked or reinforced as necessary. Interfacing. They must have compatible shrinkage to shell fabric and must lie flat.

64 ●

● ●

●

● ● ● ● ● ●


Lining and attached slips. They must have compatible shrinkage to shell fabric. Linings must lie flat. Linings and slips must be firmly attached and appropriately hemmed. Buttons. They must be securely fastened and colourfast. Button holes must be compatible and completely stitched around. Snaps, rivets and trims. They must be securely fastened, reinforced and no corrosion after 1 hour at rest in laundry machine after one home laundry cycle. Elastic and ribbing. They must extend to fullest width of fabric without breaking stitches. Tunnelled elastic must be stitched down to prevent twisting and rollover. No exposed elastic is allowed. Stripes and plaids. They must match at all seams unless otherwise specified. Plackets. No puckering at seams, especially at bottom or base is desired. Hems and edge finishing. They must be even with no raw edges. Needle cutting. Correct needle size and type for fabric are required. No needle cuts are expected. Zippers. Correct duty zipper for garment is necessary. No bulging or wavering on tape is allowed. Ends of tape must be securely fastened. Drawstrings. They must be secured/finished at both ends.


Pile fabrics. There must be no press marks and no crushed pile. Painted hardware. They must be less than 0.06% lead by weight.




65



5. Size and fit ●



Method

Woven seams Fabric 3.5 oz/sq yd

ASTM D 1683

Requirement 15 lbs/in. 20 lbs/in.

(c) Strength at stress points and of applied decorations Test Reinforced stress points Applied decorations (i) for 18-month age and up ii) for under 18-month age Pocket strength Under 8 oz/sq yd Over 8 oz/sq yd

Method ASTM D 1683(Modified) ASTM D 1683 (Modified)


ASTM D 1683(Modified) Non-functional Functional Non-functional Functional

10 15 10 20

lbs lbs lbs lbs


Method



MTL S-1001

Snap/Desnap

ASTM D 4846


66



Method




(f) Appearance Appearance tests include the change in garment appearance after repeated washings. This includes, but is not limited to ●

Corrosion resistance (metal hardware) Must display no corrosion Lead content of painted hardware < 0.06% ● Ironing (If recommended) No colour change Good appearance Good shape retention ● Dimensional stability Shrinkage within tolerance ● Fabric smoothness and recovery Retention of original properties ● Hardware (Buttons, snaps or zippers) No chipping, discoloration or rusting ● Button holes, trims or hems No fraying or ravelling ● Twisting/torque of seams Less than 5% of side seam length ● Seam No openings ● Needle cut No needle cut ● Frosting, pilling and snagging No objectionable change ● Elasticised areas No deterioration ● Differential shrinkage No more than 2% between shell and lining (g) Smoothness appearance ●

Test

Method


AATCC 143 AATCC 143

2.4.7


Knit dresses, jumpers, rompers and skirts

1. Fabric Fabric construction As approved/contracted (±5%) Flammability Class 1 (Must comply with 16 CFR part1610 or ASTM D1230)


67

2. Garment construction ● ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

● ●

●

● ● ● ● ● ●

Pockets. They will be uniform in size and placed evenly or aligned. Seams. They must be finished and back tacked at ends. No untrimmed threads are allowed. They must be free from puckering appropriate tension and seam type shall be used. They must stretch with fabric without breaking. Shoulder seams. They must be taped or reinforced unless otherwise specified. Stitching. Thread must be colourfast. No broken top stitches, open seams and breakage are allowed when fabric is fully extended. Darts. They must be uniform in length and shape and no puckering or bubbles. Stress points. They must be bar tacked or reinforced as necessary. Interfacing. They must have compatible shrinkage to shell fabric and must lie flat. Lining and attached slips. They must have compatible shrinkage to shell fabric. Linings must lie flat. Linings and slips must be firmly attached and appropriately hemmed. Buttons. They must be securely fastened and colourfast. Button holes must be compatible and completely stitched around. Snaps, rivets, and trims. They must be securely fastened, reinforced and no corrosion after 1 hour at rest in laundry machine after one home laundry cycle. Elastic and ribbing. They must extend to fullest width of fabric without breaking stitches. Tunnelled elastic must be stitched down to prevent twisting and rollover. No exposed elastic is allowed. Stripes and plaids. They must match at all seams unless otherwise specified. Plackets. No puckering at seams is allowed, especially at bottom or base. Hems and edge finishing. They must be even with no raw edges. Needle cutting. Correct needle size and type for fabric are necessary. Ball point needles should be used with knits to prevent needle cutting. Zippers. Correct duty zipper for garment is necessary. No bulging or wavering on tape is allowed. Ends of tape must be securely fastened. Drawstrings. They must be secured/finished at both ends.

Children’s garments: There must be no hood or neck drawstrings on garments size 2T-12. Waist/Bottom drawstring on age grades 2T-16 may not exceed 3 in. in length outside the drawstring channel when garment is expanded to its fullest width. No toggles, knots or attachments at the free

68


end are allowed. Drawstrings must be bar tacked at centre back so string cannot be pulled out. ● ●

Pile fabrics. There must be no press marks and no crushed pile. Painted hardware. There should be less than 0.06% lead by weight.





5. Size and fit ●

Technical designer shall verify and approve as per size specification.

6. Performance standards (a) Fabric performance properties – appropriate fabric performance standards as mentioned in section 2.3. (b) Seam performance properties Test

Method


Requirement – 30% Elongation or 6 lbs Tension 50% Elongation or 7 lbs Tension


69


Method





5 lbs 10 lbs


Method



MTL S-1001

Snap/Desnap

ASTM D 4846



Method

Seams Top/Bottom stop (open and closed position)




● ● ● ● ● ●

Corrosion resistance (metal hardware) Must display no corrosion Lead content of painted hardware < 0.06% Ironing (If recommended) No colour change Good appearance Good shape retention Dimensional stability Shrinkage within tolerance Fabric smoothness and recovery Retention of original properties Hardware (Buttons, snaps or zippers) No chipping, discoloration or rusting Button holes, trims or hems No fraying or ravelling Twisting/torque of seams Less than 5% of side seam length Seam No openings

70 ● ● ● ●


Needle cut Frosting, pilling and snagging Elasticised areas Differential shrinkage

2.4.8

No needle cut No objectionable change No deterioration No more than 2% between shell and lining.

Active wear

1. Fabric Fabric construction As approved/contracted (±5%) Flammability Class 1 (Must comply with 16 CFR part1610 or ASTM D1230 required) 2. Garment construction ● ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

●

● ●

Pockets. They will be uniform in size and placed evenly or aligned. Seams. They must be finished and back tacked at ends. No untrimmed threads are allowed. They must be free from puckering appropriate tension and seam type shall be used. They must stretch with fabric without breaking. Shoulder seams. They must be taped or reinforced unless otherwise specified. Stitching. Thread must be colourfast. No broken top stitches, open seams and breakage are allowed when fabric is fully extended. Darts. They must be uniform in length and shape and no puckering or bubbles. Stress points. They must be bar tacked or reinforced as necessary. Interfacing. They must have compatible shrinkage to shell fabric and must lie flat. Buttons. They must be securely fastened and colourfast. Button holes must be compatible and completely stitched around. Snaps, rivets and trims. They must be securely fastened, reinforced and no corrosion after 1 hour at rest in laundry machine after one home laundry cycle. Elastic and ribbing. They must extend to fullest width of fabric without breaking stitches. Tunnelled elastic must be stitched down to prevent twisting and rollover. No exposed elastic is allowed. Stripes and plaids. They must match at all seams unless otherwise specified. Plackets. No puckering at seams, especially at bottom or base is desired.

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… ● ● ● ● ●

71

Hems and edge finishing. They must be even with no raw edges. Needle cutting. Correct needle size and type for fabric are required. No needle cuts are expected. Spandex. There must be no exposed or cut strands of spandex yarns. Zippers. Correct duty zipper for garment is necessary. No bulging or wavering on tape is allowed. Ends of tape must be securely fastened. Drawstrings. They must be secured/finished at both ends.


Pile fabrics. There must be no press marks and no crushed pile. Painted hardware. There should be less than 0.06% lead by weight


All care labels must remain legible and securely attached through the laundering cycle and for the life of the garment. They will be determined by the testing lab upon completion of all colorways of actual production sample. All trims and hardware must be able to withstand selected care method. Labels must be bi-lingual (English/Spanish)



5. Size and fit ●

Technical designer shall verify and approve as per required specification.

72



Method

Woven seams Fabric 3.5 oz/sq yd Knit and non-woven seams Fabric 3.5 oz/sq yd Seam slippage

Requirement

ASTM D434 14

30% Elongation or 6 lbs Tension 50% Elongation or 7 lbs Tension 15 lbs/in.


Method

Reinforced stress points Applied decorations (i) for 18-month age and up (ii) for under-18 month age Woven pocket strength (i) Under 8 oz/sq yd


(ii) Over 8 oz/sq yd Knit pocket strength


ASTM D 1683(Modified) Non-functional Functional Non-functional Functional ASTM D 1683(Modified) Non-functional Functional

10 15 10 20

lbs lbs lbs lbs

5 lbs 10 lbs


Method



Snap/Desnap

ASTM D 4846

Requirement 15 lbs min @10 s 10 lbs min @10 s MTL S-1001 5.5 in oz (no failure noted) Opening 2–5 lbs Closing 2–10 lbs


Method

Seams Top/Bottom stop (open and closed position)

ASTM D 2061 ASTM D 2061(Modified)



73

(f) Water repellency (if claimed) Test

Method

Original state (ISO-4) Class After 1 wash (if permanent)

AATCC 22 15 –

Requirement 90 70 (ISO-2) Class

(g) Water resistance (if claimed) Test

Method

Original state

AATCC 35 16

Requirement 1 g max.

(h) Appearance Appearance tests include the change in garment appearance after repeated washings. This includes, but is not limited to ● ● ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Corrosion resistance (metal hardware) Must display no corrosion Lead content of painted hardware < 0.06% Ironing (If recommended) No colour change Good appearance Good shape retention Dimensional stability Shrinkage within tolerance Fabric smoothness and recovery Retention of original properties Hardware (Buttons, snaps or zippers) No chipping, discoloration or rusting Button holes, trims or hems No fraying or ravelling Twisting/torque of seams Less than 5% of side seam length Seam No openings Needle cut No needle cut Frosting, pilling and snagging No objectionable change Elasticised areas No deterioration Differential shrinkage No more than 2% between shell and lining.

2.4.9

Sleepwear

1. Fabric

●

Fabric construction Flammability Adult sleepwear

As approved/contracted (±5%) Must comply with 16 CFR part1610 or ASTM D1230

74 ●


Children’s sleepwear Must comply with 16 CFR parts 1615 and 161617

2. Garment construction ● ●

● ● ● ● ●

●

● ● ● ● ●

●

Pockets. They will be uniform in size and placed evenly or aligned. Seams. They must be finished and back tacked at ends. No untrimmed threads are allowed. They must be free from puckering and correct tension shall be used. They must be stretched with fabric without breaking. Non-stretch knits must be taped (unless otherwise specified), or reinforced. Stitching. Thread must be colourfast, no broken top stitches and open seams. Darts. They must be uniform in length and shape. There shall be no puckering or bubbles. Stress points. They must be bar tacked or reinforced as necessary. Buttons. They must be securely fastened and colorfast. Button holes must be compatible and completely stitched around. Snaps, rivets and trims. They must be securely fastened, reinforced and no corrosion after 1 hour at rest in laundry machine after one home laundry cycle. Elastic and ribbing. They must extend to fullest width of fabric without breaking stitches. Tunnelled elastic must be stitched down to prevent twisting and rollover. No exposed elastic is allowed. Stripes and plaids. They must match at all seams unless otherwise specified. Plackets. There must be no puckering at seams, especially at bottom or base. Hems and edge finishing. They must be even with no raw edges. Needle cutting. Correct needle size and type for fabric are necessary. Ball point needles should be used with knits to prevent needle cutting. Zippers. Correct duty zipper for garment is necessary. No bulging or wavering on tape is allowed. Ends of tape, slider and teeth must be securely fastened. Drawstrings. They must be secured/finished at both ends.

Children’s garments: There must be no hood or neck drawstrings on garments size 2T-12. Waist/Bottom drawstring on age grades 2T-16 may not exceed 3 in. in length outside the drawstring channel when garment is expanded to its fullest width. No toggles, knots or attachments at the free end are allowed. Drawstrings must be bar tacked at centre back so string cannot be pulled out.

Quality protocols and performance standards of apparels… ● ●

75

Pile fabrics. There must be no press marks and crushed pile. Painted hardware. There must be less than 0.06% lead by weight.





5. Size and fit ●



Method

Woven seams Fabric

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