Italian Riviera (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

THE ITALIAN RIVIERA

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

THE

ITALIAN RIVIERA

CONTENTS HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 6 PRODUCED BY Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy PROJECT EDITOR Emanuela Damiani EDITORS Emanuela Damiani, Giovanna Morselli DESIGNERS Silvana Ghioni, Alberto Ipsilanti, Modi Artistici CONTRIBUTORS

Fabrizio Ardito, Sonia Cavicchioli, Maurizia De Martin, Gianluigi Lanza PHOTOGRAPHER

Lucio Rossi ILLUSTRATORS

Andrea Barison, Gianluca Fiorani CARTOGRAPHY

Roberto Capra, Luca Signorelli Dorling Kindersley Limited PUBLISHING MANAGERS Fay Franklin, Kate Poole SENIOR ART EDITOR Marisa Renzullo TRANSLATOR Fiona Wild EDITOR Emily Hatchwell CONSULTANT Leonie Loudon PRODUCTION Linda Dare Reproduced by Colourscan (Singapore) Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China First American Edition, 2005 11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014. Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2011

Copyright © Mondadori Electra SpA 2003. Published under exclusive licence by Dorling Kindersley Limited. English text copyright © Dorling Kindersley Limited 2004, 2011. A Penguin Company. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. A CATOLOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-0-75666-959-1 FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL

Front cover main image: Vernazza, Cinque Terre

Ecce Homo by Antonello da Messina, Palazzo Spinola, Genoa

INTRODUCING THE ITALIAN RIVIERA FOUR GREAT DAYS IN THE ITALIAN RIVIERA 10 PUTTING THE ITALIAN RIVIERA ON THE MAP 12 A PORTRAIT OF THE ITALIAN RIVIERA 14 THE ITALIAN RIVIERA THROUGH THE YEAR 28 THE HISTORY OF THE ITALIAN RIVIERA 32

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected]. The spectacular stretch of coast between Fiascherino and Tellaro

Sant’Andrea in Levanto

GENOA AREA BY AREA GENOA AT A GLANCE 46 IL CENTRO STORICO 48 LE STRADE NUOVE 66 FURTHER AFIELD 80 GENOA STREET FINDER 90

The delightful scene at Paraggi, near Portofino

THE RIVIERA DI LEVANTE 104

THE ITALIAN RIVIERA AREA BY AREA

THE RIVIERA DI PONENTE 130

THE ITALIAN RIVIERA AT A GLANCE 102

TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT 202

SURVIVAL GUIDE PRACTICAL INFORMATION 206

WHERE TO STAY 174 WHERE TO EAT 184

The port of San Remo

Genoa’s revamped Porto Antico

Prized Ligurian olive oil

TRAVEL INFORMATION 210 GENERAL INDEX 212

SHOPPING 198

PHRASE BOOK 222

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 200

Inside back cover

ROAD MAP

6

H O W

T O

U S E

T H I S

G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T

he detailed information and tipsgiven in this guide will help you to get the most out of your visit to the Italian Riviera. Introducing the Italian Riviera maps the region of Liguria and sets it in its historical and cultural context. The section Genoa Area by Area describes the main sights in the regional capital. The Italian Riviera Area by Area describes the sights and resorts east GENOA AREA BY AREA The centre of Genoa has been divided into two sightseeing areas, each with its own chapter. Further Afield describes areas outside the city centre. All the sights are numbered and plotted on an Area Map. Detailed information for each sight is presented in numerical order, making it easy to locate.

and west of Genoa along the Riviera di Levante and the Riviera di Ponente respectively, using maps, photographs and illustrations. Restaurant and hotel recommendations can be found in the section Travellers’ Needs, together with information about shopping, outdoor activities and entertainment. The Survival Guide has tips on everything from transport to making a phone call.             

San Giorgio

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Historic Buildings

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Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s sights by category: Churches, Museums and Galleries, Historic Buildings, Streets and Piazzas.

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