Eating Out - By Staying In

2 Contents Introduction: Keith's Introduction ........................................... 4 The Assumptions ...

Author: Keith Taylor

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Contents Introduction: Keith's Introduction ........................................... 4 The Assumptions .............................................. 5 His Rules of Cooking .......................................... 7 The Fun Part, Plating Up .................................. 8 Booze to Accompany ........................................ 9 Ingredients and Pots ....................................... 10 Let's Cook ................................................... 11 Your Menu for: Your Little Gastro Pub in Great Britain ......... 12 Your Little Private Bistro in France ..............28 Your Trattoria in Italy ...........................44 Your Bodega in Spain ............................60 Your Lokanta in Greece..........................76 Your Route 66 Diner in North America ........ 92 Your Tea House in the Souk in Morocco ........ 108 Your Table in the Bazzar in Turkey ............ 128 Your Favourite Beach Shack in Goa ............ 144 Your Little Kari House in India .................. 162 Your Street Corner Chop Cart in Thailand ... 178 Your Chop-Chop Special House in China........ 194

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Recipes:

Great Britain ..................................15 France ..........................................31 Italy.............................................47 Spain............................................63 Greece ..........................................79 North America ................................95 Morocco...................................... 111 Turkey ...................................... 131 Goa .......................................... 147 India ......................................... 165 Thailand .................................... 181 China ........................................ 197

Index:

Master Index............................................. 210

Charts:

Conversion Chart for weights and measures ....... 213

Biography:

Who The Hell Is Keith Taylor? ........................ 214

Dedications: Acknowledgements and Dedications................. 215

Publisher Information Eating Out - By Staying In Published in 2011 by Andrews UK Limited www.andrewsuk.com This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, resold, hired out or otherwise circulated without the publisher’s prior written consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published, and without a similar condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. Copyright © Keith Taylor The right of Keith Taylor to be identified as author of this book has been asserted in accordance with section 77 and 78 of the Copyrights Designs and Patents Act 1988.

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Keith Taylor's Introduction

What follows is a way to put a smile on the faces of grumpy Old Men (and women) everywhere and a route map to manufacturing and transporting your favorite cuisine to your dining room instead of traveling miles to spend a fortune on grub you can easily cook yourself. I will show you how to save a good few quid, have no worries about the boys in blue on the way home and allow you to do a passable impression of the late great Keith Floyd. Providing you CLEAN UP after yourself in HER kitchen, don’t use too many elastoplasts and follow my simple instructions, you will put a big smile on the bride’s face and earn loads of brownie points. The format. The book is laid out in 12 chapters each detailing recipes from a different country, thus effectively giving you a choice of 12 ethnic restaurants in your own home. The countries are: Great Britain, France, Italy, Spain, North America, Greece, Morocco, Turkey, Goa, India, Thailand, and China. Within each chapter I have given recipes for a soup and a starter, then a choice between fish or shellfish in a seafood section. For the main courses I have provided recipes using as their dominant ingredient Beef, Lamb, Pork (where permitted), Chicken, Game, Offal and a Veggie option. Finally I give a pudding option, thus allowing you to construct a one, two, three or four course meal. So there you have it: 12 cuisines with 12 recipes each. An amazing but manageable 144 ways to your beloved’s heart. If all does not work out as you had hoped be not downcast; for the price of this book may be less than the price of a starter at your local Gastro pub.

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The Assumptions

The assumptions made in this little guide are meant for those males who wince when they see the legions of T.V. “chefs”, and think to themselves, like the wonderful and ever hopeful Yosser Hughes in The Boys from the Black Stuff; “gi’ us a job, I can do that“. Strange that the majority of T.V. cookery programmes are hosted by male chefs, with the wondrously talented exceptions of the twin towers of culinary erotica - La Smith and La Lawson. Perhaps because of the minimal production costs in “cooking” programmes, this form of alleged entertainment invades our homes each day with a bewildering volume of recipes, demonstrated by an egotistical, manic expert called a chef. This “celebrity” will also have written (or had written for him) a book from the programme that you might imitate his cooking in your own home, and as if that was not enough may even bring out a range of “own label” cooking gadgets. Now is the time to ask” just how difficult is this cooking lark?”, so just maybe this little guide may provide an answer and allow you to become your old girl’s very own celebrity chef. It is assumed you have an average kitchen, or perhaps you have been persuaded to “up grade” on the basis of added value and are now disappointed that, despite the fortune you’ve spent, the food still tastes the same. Whichever is the case you should be vaguely familiar with your (wife’s) kitchen and recognize the layout of your cooker, pan and storage cupboard. If not, ask “management” before you attempt any of what follows: if you have to constantly enquire “where do you keep the diddlydum, dear?” the retort is likely to be an invitation to bugger off to the pub and “I’ll do it myself “, thus undoing all the promise of “would you like to visit Tangier tonight darling?” “Yes. Then I’ll just slip into my djellaba". I am also assuming that you have a bit of time on your hands after retirement, redundancy or illness and fancy a set of new challenges and the opportunity to acquire a new set of skills. However, the purpose of this tome is to allow you to have some fun cooking in your own (her) kitchen

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and be amazed at your ability to produce some edible ethnic food without having to get the car out of the garage and max out the Visa card. Please note I am not promising that you will wake up one morning with a thick French accent and the ability to rustle up a five course Michelin starred meal for your beloved, nor will you be able to produce a galantine of sky larks tongues with oyster flavoured mash on a blackcurrant and passion fruit jus in twenty minutes. – If that’s what you want to achieve then tune into Master Chef from your sofa with your T.V. dinner nestling in your lap, or put this book on the fire and go out to the pub anyway. I have selected recipes for you to cook for their simplicity and their ability to reflect the style and ambience of the country of origin, and preface them with a brief list of ingredients together with any particular bits of kit that you would find in the average kitchen of that country. If you reduce cooking to its empirical formula, as Ikea has done with furniture building, then it’s just a question of what animal and vegetable basics are available in your part of the world, putting these together in an orderly manner, seasoning as appropriate and applying heat in some form, and voilà, a culinary masterpiece that reflects the staple diet enjoyed by many different communities, which explains why there are not many restaurants in New Delhi serving sea lion and not many Inuits eating curry in Avanasuaq. However nowadays with the big silver birds ferrying cargos of native produce and exotic spices each day to different countries to satisfy the taste-buds of expatriates everywhere, it is possible to acquire just about any ingredient for just about any recipe, from any country - the trick is how to combine them to achieve the authentic flavours!

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His very fi rst rule of cooking: READ THE RECIPE TWICE AND COOK IT ONCE The second rule is: BEFORE you unleash your creative genius OBEY THE LIST of all the ingredients and hardware you need - this will ensure seamless progress from kitchen to table. PREPARE all the ingredients, weigh, measure, chop, slice or mash. Be sure to LOCATE ALL THE UTENSILS you’re going to need – there is nothing that is guaranteed to mess up your rhythm more than if you suddenly have to go searching for a bowl, or measure out an ingredient. Think like a concert conductor and conduct your culinary magnum opus like a symphony (after all the conductor would not start without a baton and the score!). If you are missing but ONE thing do not attempt to “busk it”, as it will end in tears and that feared plaintive wail “ I wish we’d gone out” from the other room. The third rule is: Whenever you have added a new ingredient to your pot, TASTE the result. Now is the time to adjust the flavours to YOUR taste. Remember that my recipes are a guide not the law, You are the one who has to be satisfied. Taste your creation on an ongoing basis; it will be too late if you find it is “not quite right” just before you set it on the table. A useful tip for tasting liquids is to take a small piece of plain white bread, dip it in and taste - you will be able to detect the flavours and seasoning immediately. When cooking do not forget that most sensitive of organs your nose. It’s not a bad maxim to “follow your nose”. Smelling your food, as it bubbles away, will often give you a clue as to how it’s going to taste. Dining should be the complete sensuous experience, giving all five senses free rein - taste, texture and smell are an obvious by product, but do not neglect the sights and sounds from whence came your inspiration - for presentation and sound are as important as salt and pepper, which is why you rarely hear a French accordion played in a Chinese restaurant. Last rule, but not the least: If when you’ve cooked your dish and tasted it, if it falls short of your own self-imposed standards, give it to the dog and go out. It’s never worth trying to pretend bad food is good, it never ever is.

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Now comes the fun part:

tructions and your You have followed all the recipe’, ins chefs say. Your masterpiece is ready to ‘plate up theaspawen into an art form next move is to turn whatever is inlvador Dali and Lawrence comparable to a cross between Sa te, unleash the artist in Lewllyn-Bowen. So take a warm plake too long or the cooling you and get plating, but don’t tacreated so lovingly will be culinary masterwork you have justum. I find it helps to plan as appetizing as cold Pedigree Ch ve finally decided on the out your plate layout when you hamain dish, then you will accompaniments to your chosen textures that need to be have some idea of the colours and back of an envelope and ‘composed’. So map it all out on thes to hand. Remember that have a few of the standard garnishePrize, but a well presented you are not entering for the Turner n of your ‘audience’ and plate will stimulate the anticipatioam aware that every cook increase their eating enjoyment. I ard under the stairs will be book you have stacked in the cupbo hs of the recipe described filled with lavishly staged photograp not be able to detect a dish and I suspect that you mayg at it, sure it has to look Risotto from a Pilau just by lookin frame it. t no it t ea to nt wa st mu u yo but g, izin pet ap presented with a No diner at any restaurant expechstsoftothebedishes to be served menu that has coloured photograp ff’s ability to temptingly that night, but will rely on the sta choice. Equally they will describe each dish to encourage your bience and atmosphere have made an effort to provoke an am same in Eating out - by that reflects their cuisine. It’s the e‘d and head chef ,so no staying in, for you are the maitr t pho raphs follow the aspirational, synthetically perfectograptog help you conjure to h pho d od the t jus k, boo s thi in s ipe rec h some memories of the up an atmosphere and maybe refres country whose cuisine you are imitating. .

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Booze to accompany: You may have noticed that I have resisted joining the ranks of the most pompous punters on the planet - the wine snobs. I leave the choice of ‘bevvy’ to you for I am assuming if you have got this far in life you will have had the odd “dry sherry” or whatever from time to time and will probably be buying your wine by grape type and % alcohol on the back of the bottle or the nice label on the front. Frankly if you want to drink ice cold Cotes du Rhone with your haddock and have luke warm Australian Chardonnay with your fillet steak, just do it if that’s what pulls your trigger. Wine is a simple gift from a benign and understanding God that we seem intent on complicating. Bacchus just wanted you to enjoy and so do I. My recipes are for good honest regional dishes with which a premier grand cru would be totally wasted. It is worth noting that, as with the selection of local ingredients for their local dishes, most countries have developed drinks, in tandem, that complement their food. So if you have gone to the trouble of sourcing out Cissia bark for your Vindaloo you may as well pick up some Kingfisher beer to go with it, likewise if you’re rustling up some Circassian chicken with walnuts it might be a nice gesture to finish off with a good slug of Raki – its a ‘classy’ and inexpensive touch, if you see what I mean.

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Ingredients and pots:

Each distinctive cuisine may be reasonably identified by specific ingredients that are local and abundant. Many of them you will not find in the store cupboard at home and it’s no good asking the old girl if she knows where the smoked paprika is if you have not attempted Spanish cooking before or the dried Mango if its your first bash at Indian. Likewise many cuisines use distinctive cooking utensils, so if you haven’t tried North African cooking you are unlikely to find a tajine in the pan cupboard. I am not suggesting that you dig a claypit tandoori oven in your garden, you should be able to find a suitable alternative for most things. At the beginning of each country I have noted the odd ingredient and bit of kit that will help you to dish up the authentic meals you are trying to achieve. At all costs avoid constantly asking ‘er indoors “Where is... Have we got any”? Provoking the withering response of “WE !”

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Let’s cook... The recipes are those I have collected are from my various travels and holidays: I hope they reflect the true character of the country by recognizing its own unique flavours and the ways its cooks combine their special ingredients. Quantities have been scaled down to accommodate the proposed audience of old(er) men who wish to have a canter round the kitchen and rustle up a meal for two that would be equivalent to having gone out to a restaurant to eat, thus getting maximum bonus points from the bride and saving more than a bob or two to spend on a bunch of flowers and a box of something good to nibble. So when you have presented your main dish of Tajine of Lamb and Prunes you can both sit and gaze into each other’s eyes and jointly go back to that wonderful little restaurant in Essouria where she wore that pretty little yellow frock etc etc.! I want you to fill the room with the smell and the memories of that country. I have tried to make these recipes idiot proof, and have had them tested by many of my favorite idiots who are still speaking to me and whose old girls are enraptured by their spouse’s attentions and their new-found culinary skills. Just don’t make it look too easy - you may get lumbered.... and enjoy.

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Your Gastro Pub in

Great Britain Your Menu

To Start: Cream of Stilton soup or Smoked salmon mousse with grated eggs Seafood: Poached smoked haddock and poached egg or Grilled Lobster Main Course: Choose From: Beef Olives Pan Hagglety Medallions of pork loin in cider Roast Venison with juniper and rosemary Herbaceous boiled fowl Chicken Livers on fried bread croutons Bubble and Squeak Pudding: Cranachan with Glayva and raspberries.

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“They eat to live, we live to eat”, how many times has this spurious allegation been cast our way in these Islands? Too many I hear you cry as you rush to defend Grannies recipe for Suet dumplings or Faggots. We have sustained ourselves sufficiently to resist any further conquest of our peoples since William “The Bastard” made that rather sneaky attack back in 1066, so there can’t be a lot wrong with our diet. In fact it has remained a complete mystery to me that despite exporting our language to over half the globe that all our former colonies are not full of fish and chip addicts with a discerning palate for a well mushed pea. In former times the “class” system in the British Isles had directed that the poor majority should be subservient to the minority rich, which exposed itself in attitudes to food and who should be able to eat what - which made taking a rabbit “for the pot” a rather hazardous business in the thirteenth century. The production of “Feasts” was a sure sign of social progress throughout the ages and even now the remnants of this are manifested in the habit of entertaining friends by having someone else doing the cooking and clearing up and the steady growth of places to “eat out”. This growth has transformed our rather insular attitude to “foreign muck” which formerly referred to any thing edible which was not reared or grown within our Islands, when now our leisured classes happily take their ease and refreshment at establishments which cook a huge range of imported ingredients to mimic the diet of their country of origin, and transform the producers of this wonder into celebrities. This now well worn path may now be trod by your good self, but without the tedium and risk of cranking up the motor, with the aid of this little guide – but before you embark on this journey try a few of our countries finest ingredients and give the lie to the “We eat to live” myth.

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Recipes Soup : Cream of Stilton Soup Starter : Smoked Salmon Mousse Fish : Poached Smoked Haddock with Poached Egg Shellfish : Grilled Lobster Beef / Veal : Beef Olives. Lamb / Mutton : Pan Hagglety Pork : Medallions of Pork in Cider Game : Roast Venison with Juniper and Rosemary Chicken : Herbaceous Boiled Fowl Offal : Chicken Livers on Fried Bread Crouton Vegie : Bubble and Squeak Pudding : Cranachan

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Soup

Cream Of Stilton Soup

The start of your dining out ( by staying in) should reflect accurately the cuisine you intend to serve, thus stoking up the ambience and anticipation for the rest of the meal – if it does not achieve this then what ever follows will be devalued and have to be out of the top draw to keep the evening on track. This Stilton soup fills the bill admirably and is unmistakably British, so here you go - off to a great start

Assemble:

A heavy based sauce pan and lid A wooden spoon

Then you: •

Melt the butter in the saucepan at a moderate heat

•

Peel and slice the onion thinly, then sauté (fry) them gently until they are translucent and soft, then crumble into the pan the Stilton. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon until the mixture has gone into a smooth paste.

•

Sieve into the mixture the plain flour again stirring into a paste and allow to cook through for about five minutes.

•

Slowly add the stock little at a time stirring all the time until the liquid has a soup like texture.

Ingredients:

Great Britain

2oz of unsalted butter 1 medium onion 6oz of Stilton cheese, nice and blue 2oz of plain flour 1 ½pt of chicken or vegetable stock ¼pt of single cream Salt and a peppermill A bay leaf

•

Add the bay leaf, salt and a couple of turns of the peppermill. Taste and adjust as you require, then allow to simmer for about half an hour, do not allow the liquid to reduce too much by over heating.

•

Just before service add the cream and combine into the liquid with the wooden spoon, reserving a little to pour, in a swirl, directly on top of the soup. I know one or two heavyweights who think nothing of adding a small glass of Port at this final stage; try it in yours for the sake of adventure.

•

Serve with any Vera Lynn record at volume ten.

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Starter

Smoked Salmon Mousse

The preservation of foods which have a season of abundance before scarcity or prohibition has resulted in many preserving techniques allowing the eating of such goodies at future dining dates. One such method has been developed to perfection is the art of smoking over oak sawdust after brining. Such magic is preformed by Neil Robson at the tiny Northumbrian fishing village of Craster, using farmed salmon available all year round.

Ingredients:

1 large cup full of smoked s almon pieces ½ a teaspoon full of lemon juice A large pinch of paprika ½ a cup of whipped cream 3 tablespoon full of liquid aspic jelly 2 teaspoon of “lumpfish roe” or caviar if it’s that sort of a night A hard boiled egg, grated

Then you: • •

• •

Place the smoked salmon pieces, lemon juice and paprika into the blender, whiz to a smooth paste then turn into a mixing bowl. Whisk the cream into “soft peaks” that just stand on the end of the whisk and ever so gently fold into the smoked salmon paste until all is uniformly pink. Remember that the gentler you fold the lighter will be the mousse - so take care. Now as gently as you added the cream, fold into the mixture the liquid aspic jelly and allow the mixture to stand for half an hour. With a piece of butter paper grease the inside of the soufflé or ramekin dishes and then arrange the lumpfish roe as you would wish to see it when you turn it out ( it will be on top)

•

With the spatula gently fill your souffle or ramekin dish and add a final drop of aspic to seal, before placing in the fridge for two hours.

•

Slowly turn out your mousse on to your serving dish, marveling at your lumpfish design, garnish with quarter of a lemon and some grated hard boiled egg.

•

Take to the table wearing green waders and a deerstalker hat covered in flies (artificial).

Great Britain

Assemble:

An electric blender A soufflé dish or two ramekin dishes A rubber spatula

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Fish Dish

Poached Smoked Haddock With Poached Egg

As seen in the smoked salmon mousse the art of curing brined fish over smoking oak chips and sawdust has been perfected in these Islands, no finer example exists than that practiced by Swallow’s Fish curers at The Smoke House in the seaside village of Seahouses, from where, if you are lucky you may buy the delicious smoked haddock. (They do mail order) Do not attempt this recipe with dyed fillet of haddock - it will taste hellish.

Assemble:

Great Britain

A large heavy bottomed frying pan A slotted spoon A small bowl full of water containing two ice cubes A black pepper mill The butter dish

Ingredients:

2 oak smoked fillets of Haddock, they should be golden honey colour 1pt of full cream milk A knob of butter 2 fresh white milk rolls - dunkie buns Chopped parsley for garnish

Then you: •

Put the smoked haddock in the pan, skin side down and pour in the milk to just cover the fish, and add a small knob of butter and a twist of the peppermill.

•

Put on stove at high heat but make sure it does not boil or “Catch”

•

Watch carefully as the milk begins to “simmer” – then crack into the milk a fresh egg, when it is starting to ”set” crack another egg and put into the milk, away from the first egg.

•

When the first egg has a white skin formed on top of the yolk take it out of the pan with a slotted spoon taking care not to break the yolk and place in the bowl of iced water.

•

When the other egg is ready take it out and place carefully in the bowl alongside the first egg.

•

Take out the poached fish, with the slotted spoon, and place a fillet per person on a pre-warmed plate, and pour over a couple of tablespoons of the residual milk poaching liquor

•

Take an egg from the bowl in the slotted spoon and place on top of the fish, and garnish with some fresh parsley and a turn of black pepper

•

Eat with a dunkie, (from the ancient Northumbrian - Dunk - To Dip) the bun, to mop up the juices whilst wearing your oilskins, the nice yellow ones.

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Shellfish Dish

Grilled Lobster There’s no easy way to the perfection of this classic - The Lobster gets it! No gain without pain as the Royal Marines tell you at Lympstone. If you are at all squeamish, close this chapter and ring for a take-away, if not and you want to experience one of natures finest flavours read on

A grill pan A small hammer A set of nutcrackers A large sharp cook’s knife Two lobster pickers* A very small saucepan

Then you: • It’s your choice how to execute the lobster, I know he is one

of God’s creatures and will have a mummy somewhere but grin and bear it, because ambrosia, the food of the Gods, is about to come your way - and either. Take a small screwdriver, the type for mending three pin plugs, and place it between the eyes of the lobster and give it a firm tap to pierce the shell, watch for the tail flip as it expires. or Wrap the lobster in a plastic bag and bang it in the freezer two hours before you want to cook, remind you of Captain Oates? or Bring a large pan of water to a rolling boil grab the lobster firmly by the tail and immerse into the water wearing an oven glove - quick wiggle, - and remove after no more than two minutes. Remember if you apply heat to protein it hardens, and for this dish you want to grill your lobster when it is as moist as can be. Now the evil deed is done twist the claws from the body, and remove the head from the tail with a clockwise turn holding the lobster in your right hand then wash the top of the tail free from all the gunge. Place he tail, body side down, and position your sharp kitchen knife along the centre of the tail lengthways and give it a good thump to split the lobster in half. You will see a black,vein like thread going from top to bottom (literally), this is the digestive tract and should be removed and discarded.

Ingredients:

2 live lobsters, about 500g each - any smaller and they’re illegal About 150g of unsalted butter Some sprigs of fresh tarragon A fresh lemon

Lobster for tea? * long thin metal needle like “Pickers” get them at any decent cook shop.

•

Now turn the grill up to just below its maximum.

•

Place the butter in the saucepan and place over a low heat in order to just melt the butter.

•

Line the base of the grill pan with tin foil to make its cleaning easier.

•

Crack the lobster’s claws with light blows from the hammer on each section and place on grill with the clean two halves of the tail, flesh side up.

•

Place under the grill for three minutes then turn over only the claws and grill for a further three minutes

•

Chop the tarragon and sprinkle over the lobster and grill for a further minute.

•

Place on the warmed plate in your own inimitable style pour over flesh and claws only the clear liquid butter from the saucepan leaving the white milk solids.

•

Serve wearing World Cup 1966 or 2003 tee shirt depending on your affiliation.

Great Britain

Assemble:

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Beef / Veal Dish

Beef Olives

This is a most satisfying way to present beef and allows you to stamp your own little mark by varying the stuffing; in this recipe I am using easy sage and onion with just a hint of lemon zest.

Assemble:

A wooden meat mallet A heavy based large frying pan. A mixing bowl A slotted spoon Half a dozen or so toothpicks A fine sieve

Then you:

Great Britain

•

Place the steak on a wooden chopping board, cover with cling film, dip your Christmas mallet into cold water and flatten the steak out to a uniform thickness of about 3 cms. (If you hit meat with a dry mallet it will split and break) Now trim the hammered steak into two rectangles of about 12cms. X 10 cms.

•

Put about 12 grams of sage and onion stuffing into the bowl moisten with a little of the stock, fold in the egg that you have beaten in a cup, drift the grater on the fine side over the lemon to just lightly colour the top of the stuffing and knead into a dough .

•

Spread the stuffing evenly over the surface of the steaks, and from the narrower end roll up tightly and secure with a toothpick at both ends to ensure the rolls stays a roll, then roll the rolls over seasoned flour, coating them all over. (As Mr. Royce was heard to observe - That’s a hell of a lot of Rolls)

•

Put the pan on the heat, put in the beef dripping and raise to a high heat so the surface of the melted dripping is just moving.

•

Put in the beef olives and brown all over by rolling them or turning with the tongs, make sure they are all evenly dark brown.

Ingredients:

2 neat slices of good, bluish rump steak about 6oz. each A packet of Paxo sage and onion stuffing (well its no good reinventing the wheel is it?) A lemon and its zest A good knob of quality beef dripping 1/2 pt of beef stock or a decent stock cube dissolved in 1/2 pt of warm water with a teaspoon of vinegar and a pinch of sugar. 1 fresh egg beaten in a cup 2 tablespoons of double cream A little seasoned plain flour (That’s plain flour with a bit of salt and pepper added) A fresh bay (laurel) leaf Salt and a peppermill

•

Take from the pan with the tongs and leave to “rest” on a plate.

•

Now take the pan with the hot dripping and add the stock slowly stirring as you go until it is all blended together in the pan, bring to the boil and add a bay leaf, and reduce by half.

•

Lower the heat to a simmer and add the cream blending slowly, when absorbed re introduce the rested beef olives to the pan and cook through, turning occasionally

•

Lift out to the warmed plates with the slotted spoon, discard the bay leaf, spoon the sauce over and serve wearing John Bull waistcoat dragging your bulldog on a leash.

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Lamb / Mutton Dish

Pan Hagglety

Its sad that many of our traditional cuts of meat are being ignored by our local supermarket “butchers”, this recipe uses one of the forgotten cuts of lamb or better still Mutton if you can find a farmers market. Traditionalists will say this is not Pan Haggerty – your dead right its not, it is Pan HAGGELETY, my Grannie told me !

Then you: •

Pat the chops dry with kitchen roll, if you want to be fancy use a sharp knife to remove the neck bones from the centre of the chops - I wouldn’t do this as the bone marrow melts through in the cooking.

•

Melt the butter in the frying pan and fry the chops over a high heat, turning often, until they are sealed and a deep golden brown. Take out and rest on a warm plate. Cook the bacon rashers in the same pan until just turning crisp and reserve with the cooked chops.

•

Wash and peel the potatoes then skin the onions and cut them into 1/8th inch slices, reserving them in separate piles.

•

Butter round the casserole dish, and cover the base with a layer of potatoes, grate over a little cheese and then put a layer of onions ( as whole a slice as you can), pinch of salt and twist from the peppermill now add the browned chops, another twist of the peppermill, and layer as before, potato then cheese then onion. Now put the back bacon on top and layer as before, ending up with the final cheese layer a little thicker than in the internal layers. Pour in the stock, and place a butter paper on top of the final layer and put on the lid

•

Place in a moderate oven, about 200, and bake for 40 minutes then, take off the lid using oven gloves, remove the paper and finish off under the grill until the cheese turns golden brown.

•

If you have not de-boned before cooking remember the bones before you call the orthodontist!

•

Serve at once, half each onto warmed plates with a bottle of Newcastle Brown ale each, shouting “Howay the Toon”( Optional).

Ingredients:

4 back collop chop – in other words four neck chops 4 slices of thick cut unsmoked back bacon Butter 2 large potatoes 2 large white onions Lump of cheddar cheese for grating 1/4 pint of meat stock or a teaspoon full of Bovril dissolved in 1/4 pint of warm water

Great Britain

Assemble:

Heavy based frying pan An oven proof casserole dish and lid Small Frying pan Cheese grater

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Pork Dish

Medallions Of Pork In Cider

Somerset has long been highly regarded for the delicate pork it rears, almost as famous as its apples so it seemed natural they would end up on the same plate together, it's also a great excuse to have a slurp of Henry Westons Premium cider at 8.5% - don’t forget to put some in the recipe!

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A small frying pan An apple corer – another thing for Christmas!

Great Britain

Ingredients:

A pork loin fillet trimmed, from your favourite breed 2 tablespoons of sunflower oil ½ oz butter 5 shallots A sour cooking apple A bottle of Henry Weston’s Premium cider Half a pint of stock A knob of kneaded butter – that is butter mashed up with some plain flour to form a firm ball Some fresh parsley and sage A spoon full of runny honey

Then you:

• Put the pork fillet on a chopping board and give it

a roll to make as neat a circular tube as you can. Now slice diagonally 1/2 inch “medallions” until you get to the end discarding the first and the last piece or cook them if you are frugal but make sure to put them on your plate!

• Season some plain flour and gently sieve over all

the medallions turning to ensure they all get their fair share - not too much.

• Core the apple, it’s great feeling, and cut into

1/2 inch pieces

• Peel the shallots and finely slice and combine with

the apple, tear up a little leaf or two of fresh sage and mix in.

• Heat the oil and half the butter in the heavy pan

until the surface just moves, then place in the medallions swiftly and sear for two minutes each side. Take off heat and allow to rest.

• Melt the rest of the butter in a frying pan and

gently fry (its called sauté) the onion and apple mixture until the shallots soften, then sprinkle on the teaspoon of brown sugar and allow to caramelize that is to go slightly sticky and darkish brown. Be careful here as if you over cook these it will render the dish fit only for the animal you are cooking.

• Put the pan with the browned medallions back

on the heat and spoon in the shallots and apple mixture and just cover with the Henry Weston’s, if there is any left!

• Reduce the liquid by about a third and then stir

in the knob of kneaded butter to thicken the sauce.

• Serve onto warm plates and garnish with a piece

of fried apple skin if your feeling a little flippant, having donned your smock and brimless straw hat.

23

Game Dish

Roast Venison With Juniper Berries And Rosemary Cream To the original carnivores meat was anything they could catch and kill, it then became “fair

game”. After a while we learnt to domesticate “wild” animals so we would not have to chase them when we wanted to eat, thus allowing us time to become bankers and I.T. technicians and other such worthy pastimes. Strange how this happen in a circle, now the leisured classes have so much time on their hands that they pay someone to rear wild animals so they can be set free and be hunted by today's cavemen. Hey Ho !

Then you: •

Venison, whilst being extremely lean will become very dry if overcooked and therefore requires both marinating and basting so if you’re going to have a crack at this remember to marinade the night before the afternoon you are going to cook this dish, it’s a bit of a pain but you will be glad to did !

•

Crunch the juniper berries and black peppercorns together in the pestle with the mortar, or is it the other way round? Mix the oil, lemon juice, finely chopped onion and wine vinegar together with a whisk.

•

Rub a little salt and half of the crushed berries over the surface, front and rear, of the venison and pour on the mixed marinade, cover with cling film and refrigerate overnight

•

About three hours before you wish to serve take the venison from the fridge and place on a bread board, rub the rest of the berry mixture onto the surface of the venison, then sprinkle a little pinch of salt over each and grate over a dusting of lemon zest

•

Place two rashers of the bacon in the greased roasting tin and lay the venison on top, then cover the tops with the remaining bacon and carefully pour in the marinade to cover, then cover the tin with cooking foil.

Ingredients:

A thick slice from the haunch of a well hung red deer, about 1 lb ¼ pint of sunflower oil A good knob of butter ¼ pint of cider vinegar Teaspoon of dried juniper berries – any supermarket should stock. 4 thick pieces of streaky bacon Juice and zest of one lemon 1 heaped tablespoon of flour 1 onion 1/2 pint of single cream Teaspoon of black peppercorns

•

Place in the centre of a pre heated oven at 180 and cook for an hour and a half, after which time take it from the oven remove the foil and return to the oven for a further 30 minutes, then remove the top layer of bacon, reserve and cook on for a final 15 minutes

•

Take out venison and remove to a warm plate to rest in a warm oven, whisk the flour into the remaining roasting pan juices and add the cream to finish, and if you’ve been a good boy today add a schooner of tawny port.

•

Serve on warm plates with redcurrant jelly. Dig out the Sherlock Holmes Deerstalker and Meerschaum pipe take to the table muttering “elementary”

Great Britain

Assemble:

A medium sized roasting tin Small mixing bowl Pestle and mortar Small whisk Cooking foil

24

Chicken Dish

Herbaceous Boiled Fowl

In former times domestic fowls roamed about at will and ate what ever they could scratch out of the ground, not like today’s spoilt little creatures reared to die after only six weeks and fed on a strict diet of processed “food”- and we wonder why food doesn’t taste like it used to when we were young. This is a simple but extremely tasty way of getting back to the flavours as they should be.

Assemble:

A large saucepan with fitting lid A pair of tongs A slotted spoon

Great Britain

Ingredients:

A small “free range” or better still farmyard chicken, enough for two Lemon juice Salt and a peppermill * A boquet garni 1 washed carrot 3 sticks of celery 1 small onion all chopped 6 leaves of fresh tarragon 2 teaspoons of cornflour Half a pint of double cream

’ve a leheyrb ou y if n ow r ou y some,pleaarsves of * to meanke r e th a g st ju , gard alks, sprigs of thyme ry and a a a little with st a sprivgeofs wrorasepm d in e p marjorofam a le y ba ring. st le h p it ou w c muslin and tied

Then you: •

Rub the skin of the bird with a mixture of lemon juice and salt – this will help to preserve its colour. Place in the pan and just cover with water, for each pound weight of bird add ½ teaspoon of salt.

•

Chop the vegetables coarsely then add to the pan with the boquet garni, bring to the boil then reduce heat until the liquid is just simmering.

•

A grey scum like froth will appear from time to time - remove this with the slotted spoon.

•

• •

• •

•

After about two hours the bird should be tender, a little prod with a sharp knife will tell you. Take off the heat and remove the bird to a warmed plate. Bring the remaining liquid to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and reduce by half. Mix the corn flour to a thin paste with water making sure there are no lumps and stir into the remaining liquid and continue to reduce until about three cups full remain. Sieve the remaining liquid into a small sauce pan and place on a low heat then stir in the cream with a wooden spoon. Joint the warm chicken - plate up on two plates and pour over the sauce, garnish with fresh celery leaves (there should be some in the centre of the celery). Don Bowler hat with tightly rolled brolly at the high port and serve.

25

Offal Dish

Chicken Livers On Crouton With Berries And Rosemary Cream

Often ignored, but still some of the most distinctive flavours to be found, Offal has a special place in the food psyche of the average Brit – perhaps its because we old timers can still remember rationing when the cheap cuts of any animal were welcome. Liver and bacon, Tripe and Onions helped us to be the nation of fast food, pizza eating food zombies it is claimed we are. Anyway there is a bright side - all that processed chicken has given us an abundance of chicken livers, always a real treat.

Ingredients:

½ lb chicken’s livers – best if you can get them from a butcher 3 tablespoons of sunflower oil Knob of butter 4 shallots 4oz button mushrooms 2 rashers of thick cut unsmoked bacon A small piece of beef dripping 1 bunch of fresh watercress 1 nip of whisky 2 thick slices of white bread cut from a fresh white uncut loaf

Then you: •

Heat to a moderate heat the heavy frying pan with the sunflower oil and the butter and stir when butter is melted, then reduce the heat.

•

Peel and finely slice the shallots, quarter the button mushrooms and cut the bacon into ¼ inch squares

• •

•

•

•

•

Wash the chicken livers and discard any greenish or gristle bits, wash again and pat dry. Cut the dry livers into thumbnail chunks Cut four ½ inch slices from the loaf, get a pint glass and push down in the middle of the slice turn round and round till the sides release, pull up and harvest the perfect circle of fluffy white bread. Melt the dripping in the small pan over a highish heat and when melted fry the bread on both sides until golden brown, reserve to paper kitchen towel on a warm plate. Turn up the heat on the large pan and when the mixture begins to move put in the bacon and fry until it starts to wrinkle, then put in the shallots and fry together for three minutes after which introduce the button mushrooms and fry, turning constantly as the mushrooms begin to absorb the liquor, reserve to a warm plate with a slotted spoon. Put a little more butter in the pan if it appears dry, allow to melt and then sauté the chicken liver chunks over a high heat until they are soft but not brown, then pour on the whisky, and light if you’re feeling frisky. Two more turns in the pan with the slotted spoon and then add the shallot mixture to the pan and heat through. Now add the watercress and cook for the final thirty seconds. Take out the warm fried bread and plate up the sauté in equal measures (unless you are feeling particularly hungry). Nice served with plain pure boiled long grain rice, whilst playing Elgar on your favourite cello.

Great Britain

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A small frying pan Slotted spoon

26

Vegetarian Dish

Bubble And Squeak

Always served after Christmas a mixture of the left over festive vegetables, mashed into a delicious paste, pan fried - made you wish that you did not have to wait for another 364 days till the next one!

Assemble:

Great Britain

Two large saucepans with lids A heavy based frying pan A potato masher or ricer if you’ve got one A fish slice (to get it out of the pan)

Ingredients:

2 washed carrots 2 medium parsnips 2 large potatoes Small spring cabbage, leaves only 8 Brussels sprouts Salt and black pepper 3 tablespoons full of good beef dripping A piece of nutmeg with grater A “dash” of vinegar

Then you: •

Clean and peel the carrots, parsnip, and potatoes, chop into medium sized pieces and put in a large pan. Cover with boiling water, salt and bring to the simmer over a high heat, for 20 minutes.

•

Wash the spring cabbage and sprouts, cut them into quarters and place in a large saucepan. Cover with boiling water, add the “dash” of malt vinegar and a pinch of salt and simmer for 15 minutes.

• • •

Take both pans off the stove and drain off the liquid (reserve in a jug if you wish as it’s excellent vegetable stock) Mash the pan of potato, carrot and parsnip together, but do not puree, and whisk with a fork to combine to a firm mixture Take out the cabbage and sprouts and roughly chop, then grate over a dusting of nutmeg.

•

Combine the two pans into a big bowl and whisk again with a fork till all the ingredients are evenly mixed.

•

Heat the frying pan with the beef dripping , when hot place the mixture in the pan and flatten till it becomes an even cake. Cook for 25 minutes each side, or a little more it you want a crunchy crust.

•

Turn out onto a large warmed plate, put a small paper union jack on the top (optional), or carve your coat of arms into the crust and serve.

27

Pudding

Cranachan With Glayva And Raspberries If everything has gone well up to this stage, you’re nearly home and dry; however the final furlong can often be the killer, just look at Devon Loch in The National. So keep your eye on the ball and serve this little gem as a final flourish and have your audience yelling for the chef to come before them and hear their applause. You can make this well in advance and keep in the refrigerator until you’ve cleared the table of the main course, and then produce Cranachan - as if by Magic.

Ingredients:

1/2 a cup of coarse oatmeal 1/2 a pint of double cream A pinch or two of caster sugar A small glass of Glayva (it’s Gaelic for happiness) Fresh berries of your choice

Then you: •

Gently heat the frying pan first making sure it’s both clean and dry.

•

Put in the oatmeal and stir as it gently toasts and starts to brown ever so slightly.

•

Beat the cream with the whisk until it is stiff but not solid.

•

Pour the Glayva over the oats and allow to become absorbed.

•

Fold into the whipped cream into the oats and add as much caster sugar as you feel necessary.

•

If using fresh berries, blackberries or raspberries are wonderful, place a spoon full in the bottom of a sweet glass and sprinkle on a touch of sugar, keeping two back for decoration then add the mixture from the bowl, topping with the saved berry.

•

Serve singing “My love is like a red red rose”

Great Britain

Assemble:

A small frying pan A mixing bowl A small whisk A wooden spoon

28

Your Bistro in

France Your Menu To Start:

French Onion Soup avec le crouton de Gruyere ou Escargots a la Bourguignonne. Seafood:

Herrings a la Boulangere ou Langoustines aux tarragon. Main Course: choose from:

Daube of boeuf a la Provencal Noisettes d’Agneau a la Clamart Roulades de Porc estufade Le Lapin de Dijon Coq au Vin Ris de Veau braise en Maderia Ratatoullie (vegetarian) Pudding:

Le Peche Pochee

29

30

Love them or hate them you’ve got to admit that the French have made cooking , and eating, into an art form – one that they happily export throughout the world, and never stop telling anyone who will listen. Having such a vast geography and range of coastline from Calais (only 22 miles from fish and chip land) and the North Sea to Bordeaux on the North Atlantic, and their wondrous Mediterranean coast all manner of seafood is available whilst their farmlands, forests and rivers flourish producing both animals and vegetables in abundance of quality and quantity. Here “haut cusine” was born elevated from rustic beginnings to almost symphonic flavours by the likes of Esscoffier and Careme They also lay claim to the invention of Haute couture, that is overpriced frocks, thank heavens they never got round to Haute Morris dancing. The slightly obese comic figure of a French tyre making company’s logo, a strange paradox, has come, through their star award system, to identify some of the current pretenders to the gastronomique crown of Europe. To go with this huge array of choice of ingredients the French still produce some of the world’s finest wines and it should not be difficult for you to identify some goodies at your local supermarket that will assist the digestion of your classic attempt at either high or low French cuisine. So prepare for a foray into the upper atmosphere where garlic, cream and wine are the three wise men. “Allons enfants”!

31

Recipes Soup : French Onions soup avec crouton de gruyere Starter : Escargots Á La Bourguignonne Fish : Herrings a la boulangere Baked herrings with onions and potatoes Shellfish : Langoustines aux tarragon Beef / Veal : Daube de boeuf a la provencal

Marinated beef stew, when you translate into English it doe not sound nearly as magical

Lamb / Mutton : Noisettes d’Agneau a la Clamart

braised lamb noisettes in a pea puree filed pastry case Pork : Roulades de Porc estufade just as it says roulades of pork Game : Le Lapin de Dijon

rabbit in mustard sauce Chicken : Coq au vin chicken cooked in red wine Offal : Sweetbreads in maderia Vegie : Ratatoullie Pudding : Poached Peach

32

Soup

French Onion Soup Avec Crouton De Gruyere

If you are going to have a French meal this is a real gem of a starter, and will leave Madam in no doubt of your intentions for it’s very simple and immediately recognizable - a gastric Eiffel Tower.

Assemble:

France

An oven proof casserole Two pottery soup dishes - stout as they are going under a grill A wooden spoon A fine sieve A cheese grater

Ingredients:

2 large onions thinly sliced 3 tablespoons full of unsalted butter 1 heaped tablespoon of plain flour * One and a half pints of beef stock 2 cloves of peeled garlic, crushed with the back of a knife. 2 tablespoons full of grated Gruyere cheese A small French baguette (long bread loaf) A couple of teaspoons full of good olive oil. * use a stock cube if you ve to and add a little Bovrha il.

Then you: • Melt the butter

in the casserole dish over a modest heat, when melted reduce the heat a little and introduce the onions and simmer for about thirty minutes until the onions are dark golden brown - if not turn up the heat a notch and watch over them till they colour, then remove from the heat

•

Sieve the flour over the onions; add the stock, stirring as you do, adjust the seasoning to your taste, reduce the heat and simmer for about half an hour.

•

Cut the baguette from the centre at a diagonal (45 degrees) giving four thick slices. Rub the crushed garlic over the bread slices on both sides, taking care not to leave shreds, and then rub with olive oil.

•

•

Take the soup from the stove and ladle into two soup bowls leaving about two inches from the top. Now place the bread slices on top of the soup and sprinkle over with the grated Guyere cheese and place under a hot grill and cook until the cheese starts to brown and bubble. Serve with a gentle ‘allo ‘allo my little cauliflower, ca va” ? leave out the” voulez vous ----- avec moi” until after the meal otherwise everything else will get cold.

33

Starter

Escargots Á La Bourguignonne Snails In Garlic Butter

If you were to meet a Martian and during the conversation were to ask him (if you could be sure it was a him) what the Martian people knew about the gastronomique habits of the French people he would reply, at once, “they eat snails, don’t they”- such is the interplanetary reputation of La Belle Francoise. So if you’re planning a night in at your very own bistro what better dish than les Escargots to set the scene?

Ingredients: 12 snails either canned or frozen

with shells 2 garlic cloves peeled and crushed Six tablespoons full of farm butter that’s the bright yellow one A tablespoon full of chopped parsley A tablespoon full of cooking brandy Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Then you: • Pre heat the oven to 190. •

Warm the mixing bowl by swirling some boiling water around and leave to stand for two minutes, remove water and the dry bowl with paper kitchen towel.

•

Place the butter, parsley, crushed garlic in the warmed bowl with a touch of salt and pepper and mix with a fork.

•

Add half the brandy to the butter mixture and thoroughly combine to a smooth paste.

•

With a teaspoon put a small amount of the butter mixture in each shell, and then place the snail fully in the shell and seal the entrance with more of the butter mixture.

•

Place the snails in the oven proof dish in which you intend to serve at table and drizzle over the remains of the brandy then place in the oven and cook for twenty minutes or until the butter starts to bubble or turns brown.

•

Remove and place a thick slice of rustic bread on the plate and place on the table playing the accordion with your black beret cocked over one eye and give the old girl a knowing wink.

France

Assemble:

A shallow oven proof dish capable of holding 12 snails’ shells, or two capable of holding 6 snails’ shells. A small palette knife A garlic crusher A small mixing bowl

34

Fish Dish

Harengs A La Boulangere.

Herrings Baked With Potatoes And Onions

The shellfish recipe, if you’ve had the courage to tackle it, shows how the French can take a luxury item like langoustines and embroider the most intricate flavours into a sauce that would seem to typify their perception of haut cuisine. Now this recipe will dispel all those lofty thoughts and show how the French can also take everyday simple, cheap, this should cost less than €1 per portion, and plentiful ingredients then model into a most interesting and tasty dish full of superb flavours.

Assemble:

A small saucepan A large ovenproof baking dish with lid 2 fish slices

France

Ingredients:

4 freshly filleted and cleaned herring – your fishmonger will do this for you. 2 medium sized potatoes A teaspoon of both dried Marjoram and thyme, 2 if fresh. 3 teaspoons of fresh lemon juice 2 medium sized firm onions A cup of vegetable stock An ounce of butter

Then you: •

Peel the potatoes and put whole into the sauce pan, bring to the boil and cook until partly boiled – just soft enough to feel firm when prodded with a fork. Take out and reserve to cool.

•

Peel the onions and cut into thin rings, keeping the ring whole if possible.

•

Cut the part cooked potatoes into thin, about quarter of an inch, slices

•

Grease with buttered paper the bottom of the large oven proof dish, and line the bottom with potato slices, then season with a little salt and ground black pepper.

•

Place the herring fillets on top of the potato with the skin side down, sprinkle over with the herbs and squeeze on the lemon juice, season with salt and a couple of turns with the peppermill. Place the onion rings on top of the fish, add a few knobs of butter, a turn of the peppermill and then lay over the remaining potato slices.

•

Pour in the stock, and place little knobs of the butter on top of the potatoes, sprinkle on a little salt and a couple of twists of the peppermill and cover with the lid.

•

Pre heat the oven to about 190, reasonably hot, and bake the dish in the centre of the oven for about three quarters of an hour or when you can see the potatoes are browning.

•

Serve from the dish onto warmed plates, using two fish slices to keep the herring whole.

•

Put on Edith Piaff record “ Non je ne regret rien” with a tear in your eye.

35

Shellfish Dish

Langostines Au Tarragon

This little classic relies on your sourcing fresh Scampi, langoustines or Dublin bay prawns – call them what you will “a rose by any other name ----“ as William S used to say, also” if food be the music of love “ - turn up the volume

Ingredients:

12 good sized fresh Langoustines or Dublin bay prawns 2 tablespoons of good olive oil A small carrot topped and tailed and scrubbed. 2oz of fresh dill, if unavailable use fennel. 2 small shallots finely sliced. 1 large clove of garlic, crushed. 3 firm tomatoes 3 tablespoons of cooking brandy save the good stuff for afters 1 large wine glass of dry white wine 1 large wine glass of fish stock. 1 tablespoon of tomato puree 1 tablespoonful of freshly chopped tarragon 2 tablespoons of cornflour 3oz of double cream 1 teaspoon of wine vinegar A pinch of paprika or cayenne pepper

Then you: • Bring the large saucepan of water to the boil, with a

couple of sifts of sea salt. Drop in the langoustines and simmer for no longer than three minutes. Transfer them into a bowl of cold water and leave for ten minutes.

•

Peel the langoustines reserving the meat and the shells separately. Place the body shell on a piece of baking foil and bake in a hot, 220, oven for half an hour. Put the heads and claws in a small sauce pan, having smacked with a rolling pin to break open and bring to the boil in half a pint of water, allow to simmer for twenty minutes, then strain into a small jug - this is your fish stock!

•

When the body shells have cooled put them in a food processor, or better still a coffee grinder, and pulverize into a powder and reserve.

•

Skin the tomatoes by making quarter cuts lightly over but through the skin and placing them in boiling water for ten minutes. Take off the loosened skin, quarter and remove seeds and core, reserving just the pulp.

•

Heat the oil in a small frying pan and add the prepared finely chopped carrot, shallots, garlic, dill or fennel then the tomato pulp, and cook over a low heat until they soften.

•

Put the softened vegetables into the food processor with the pulverized shell powder, and blitz. Add the brandy and wine to the mixture and combine with a wooden spoon, and then add the cream Now sieve into a small bowl through a fine sieve then pass the fish stock you have made with the heads, about 300 mls., through a clean muslin cloth into the wine mixture in the blender, puree the mixture, then pour into the saucepan.

•

Bring this liquid to the boil, add the tomato puree and fresh tarragon then allow to simmer.

•

Mix the corn flour into a loose paste with two tablespoons of cold water and slowly stir into the sauce, bring to the boil then reduce to a simmer as it thickens, stir in the cream, then add the wine vinegar and season with a light touch of paprika or cayenne pepper. Taste on some fresh white bread dipped in the sauce, and adjust seasoning and consistency to your taste.

•

Cut the cooked prawns down their backs and remove the black “thread” which is their digestive tract as this will bitter the dish if left. Introduce the prawns to the simmering sauce and allow to just heat through for about three minutes do not re cook, otherwise they will harden and spoil the texture of this dish.

•

Serve on warm plates, hum Le Marseillaise and explain why you have planted a Tricolour on the lawn and astonish your good lady.

France

Assemble:

A large saucepan A shallow saucepan A fine sieve and a clean small muslin cloth A food processor. A kitchen timer. A small bowl A wooden spoon

36

Beef / Veal Dish

Daube Of Beef A La Provencale

If you are reading this recipe for the first time having thought “um, that sounds nice for tonight”, sorry - Daube basically means a marinade, something that you soak your tomorrow nights meal in today. A bit like the old boy having his holiday in a small village in western Ireland going into the only shop for miles and asking for a copy of The Daily Telegraph - “do you want today’s or yesterday’s soor” asked the friendly owner! “today’s please” he replied, “ah well then you’d better come back tomorrow” Likewise with a daube!. Because this method tenderizes the meat, cheaper cuts can be used, however decent lean braising steak will do nicely.

Ingredients:

France

Firstly for the marinade: A pound and a half (or more if you’re hungry) of good braising steak about 1 inch thick. Cut into cubes 2 wine glasses of dry white wine. 2 tablespoons full of cooking brandy A pinch of salt A teaspoon of black pepper corns ½ a teaspoon of dried or fresh thyme A bay leaf 2 large garlic cloves, crushed 3 medium onions thinly sliced 3 carrots thinly sliced. A large piece of lemon rind

for the main dish: 6 rashers of streaky bacon 4 ounces of flour 6 ounces of closed cup mushrooms, cut into quarters 6 medium tomatoes, blanched, peeled and then deseeded 3 garlic cloves crushed 1 teaspoon of coarse grated orange zest 1 tablespoon of fresh parsley chopped 1 boquet garni 6 ounces of beef stock, or a beef stock cube dissolved in a cup of water 10 good sized black olives, stoned (no not you!) and pitted and then halved

Assemble:

A large bowl in which to marinade An ovenproof casserole dish A fine sieve A wooden spoon A pestle and mortar

Then you: • Combine all the marinade ingredients into a large bowl mixing with a wooden spoon, cover with cling film set aside in the fridge until you are ready to cook tomorrow.

•

Cut the streaky bacon lengthwise into one inch wide strips, lay flat into a shallow bowl and pour on boiling water and leave to soak for five minutes, after which take out and pat dry with kitchen towel.

•

Remove the beef cubes from the marinade and pat dry with kitchen towel, then dredge in the seasoned flour, ensuring all sides of the cube are coated, shake off any excess.

•

Sieve the marinade into a bowl after removing the bay leaf, and reserve both the liquid and the vegetables.

•

Grease with butter paper the bottom of the large flameproof casserole dish, and lay strips of the bacon on the bottom. Pour a spoon full of the marinated vegetables over the bacon and then a spoonful of the mushrooms and tomatoes.

•

Arrange a layer of the beef cubes on top of the vegetables and sprinkle over with some crushed garlic, orange zest and chopped parsley, a light pinch of salt and a turn of black pepper.

•

Continue by layering again with the bacon strips, marinated vegetables, beef cubes with garlic as before, ending with the top layer of bacon strips

•

Gently pour in the beef stock and the reserved marinade - add the boquet garni and scatter the olives on the top.

•

Bring the liquid to the boil, put on the dishes lid and transfer into a preheated moderate (170) oven for four hours or until tender – taste a beef cube on a teaspoon (when cooled) after three hours, and half hourly intervals until to your taste and tenderness is achieved.

•

Remove from the oven, and remove any fat from the surface with a shallow spoon, remove the boquet garni.

•

Serve shouting “allez le bleu” with a live cockerel under your arm.

37

Lamb / Mutton Dish

Noisettes D’agneau A La Clamart

These are lamb chops without the loin which have been de boned (a job for the butcher but easy enough with a sharp knife). The streaky end of the chop is then curled round the eye of the chop (the meaty bit!) and held in place with a cocktail stick These will be a sensation when you serve these cooked just pink and resting on a puree of fresh peas in a pastry case – how cool is this! In a way this is a little like the French attitude to dress, they have a happy knack of making simple things elegant and “chic” so this dish is “chic”, I hope so!

Ingredients:

4 oz. of short crust pastry (do not fret, you can buy this ready made in any supermarket) A dusting of plain flour 1 pound of freshly shelled garden peas (again you can buy frozen peas, best are the petite pois) 1 1/2 ounces of butter A teaspoon full of good olive oil A pinch of salt 4 Noisettes of lamb

Then you: • Dust a little flour on your working surface and roll out a

small circle of pastry no more than ¼ inch thick. Using the pint glass, empty it first; cut four circles from the pastry.

•

Grease well the pastry tin with butter paper and lightly press in the cut pastry circles, taking care to take the shape if the tin and not tear the pastry, trim if required.

•

Line the pastry cases with foil and fill each pastry to the top with the uncooked or clay beans, and bake in a pre heated oven at 200 for about ten minutes.

•

Remove the pastry from the oven and empty out the foil and beans, then return to the oven for a further five minutes or until they are cooked through and look nice and brown. Then take from the oven and allow to cool in the tins.

•

After the peas have thoroughly de frosted place in a blender with a squeeze of lemon juice, and a sprig of chopped fresh mint and blend to a fine puree. Place this puree in a small saucepan with a small piece of butter and heat over a moderate ring until hot but never boiling, combining the butter into the puree. Season to taste

•

Remove the pastry cases from the oven and carefully spoon in the hot puree to just below the top.

•

Heat the remaining butter and teaspoon of oil in the frying pan and when hot, sprinkle a fine pinch of salt onto the lamb and sauté ( it’s the posh word for fry) for about five minutes per side or until nicely brown on the outside but not charred – the aim is to have it pink in the centre.

•

When satisfied with the lamb remove and gently place on top of the pea puree in the pastry case, put on your black berry, and horizontal navy blue and white tee shirt, six strings of onions on a pole - and serve at once resting your ancient bicycle against the dresser.

France

Assemble:

An eight bay pasty tin A heavy based frying pan A fine sieve A wooden spoon A rolling pin A pint glass Four tablespoons of uncooked beans of any persuasion or clay “cooking beans” A small pan and lid A food process

38

Pork Dish

Roulades De Porc Estufade Stuffed Little Rolls Of Pork

This dish eliminates any fancy footwork in the plate decoration stakes, as it’s served all together, and still looks wondrously appetizing. Nice with apple sauce.

Assemble:

France

A large saucepan and lid A small milk saucepan An ovenproof casserole dish *A potato “ricer” A sieve and small dish Some wooden toothpicks and a wooden spoon A rolling pin and chopping board

Ingredients:

1 pound of “floury” potatoes ¼ pint of milk Salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 shallots 1 clove of garlic 2 ounces of butter 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh parsley 4 slices of pork fillet cut lengthways into strips about 1 ½ inches wide 2 soaked dried prunes and two soaked dried apricots for llent bit ofpukit * an exgceto e, re ne a fi tternut mashin turn ip, bu ot potatoessh, an her ro n’t squa es. dIf ot ve yo vegetablan ordinauryhapo tato got oner and a strong ta e mashe fork will suffice bl

Then you: • Peel the potatoes cut into quarters and boil in

salted water until a carving fork slides straight through them. Warm the milk in a small saucepan.

•

Strain the potatoes and allow to cool, and then pass through a “ricer” into the ovenproof dish, fold in the warmed milk with a good knob of butter, season to taste and whisk into a fine puree with a table fork. Test for texture and whip until your standard achieved.

•

Peel the shallots and garlic and finely chop then put into a small dish, add the softened butter in small pieces with a little salt and freshly ground black pepper, and combine all together with a small fork into a paste.

•

Place the strips of pork loin flat onto a chopping board and roll with a rolling pin till about the thickness of three slices of bacon. Then spread, with a knife, the shallot mixture on one side of the strip, take a prune or an apricot place on the end of the spread strip and roll ,not too firmly as to squeeze out the filling – secure with a toothpick. Complete all four, two prune, two apricot.

•

•

Place the roulades into the puree by making a hole in the puree so at least half are showing above the puree. From a height of about three feet sprinkle a dusting of paprika over the puree, dot with the remaining butter and place in a hot oven, pre heated to 200, and cook for about 45 minutes or until the meat is cooked through taking care not to over brown the potato puree. Put on Charles Asenough record and serve to warmed plates from the dish. Apple sauce is an excellent accompaniment - not cake as advised by Marie Antoinette.

39

Game Dish

Le Lapin De Dijon

Rabbit With Dijon Mustard Sauce

Ever since Myxomatosis decimated the wild rabbit population in England in the early 1950’s rabbit has had a bad press and whilst once part of a staple rustic diet is difficult to find in any butchers shop. Fortunately rabbits are now organically “farmed” and produced in “oven ready” format so now we are able to rekindle that delicious taste bud memory. This recipe from central France will convince you that little fluffy bunnies should, once again, appear on our menus, and not on your granddaughter’s slippers.

Then you: • Salt and pepper the whole saddle, smear on the

butter evenly, place in an ovenproof casserole and cook in a hot oven, about 220, for half an hour, basting every ten minutes.

•

Wash the carrot and celery and peel the onion,” de string” the celery by cutting the stalks into one inch pieces then making a small incision at the top of a piece hold the strings on the external piece and pull down, the thin string like fibres are then removed – amazing how this improves the flavour. Slice all to one inch pieces.

•

Take out the rabbit and thickly coat all over with the mustard, replace into the casserole dish, add the chopped vegetables and return to the oven after adding the parsley, bay leaf, thyme and rosemary. Cook at 180 for a further 45 minutes

•

When tender to a fork prod, take out the rabbit and place on a warmed serving dish and return to the oven at 100,

Ingredients:

A medium sized saddle of rabbit 2 ounces of butter 1 carrot 1 large white onion 1 stick of celery 6 tablespoons full of Dijon mustard 3 sprigs of parsley 1 sprig of thyme 1 small bay leaf 1 small twig of fresh rosemary 1 medium glass of dry white wine ¼ pint of double cream

•

•

Stir in the white wine into the casserole releasing all the basting and cooking juices, bring to the boil for two minutes then stir in the cream, and heat through without boiling. Strain the sauce through a muslin cloth into a sauce boat, take out the rabbit and pour over a little sauce and serve singing “ sank heevan four little girrles”

France

Assemble:

An ovenproof casserole dish with lid A serving platter A clean muslin cloth A wooden spoon

40

Chicken Dish

Coq Au Vin

This is splendid way of getting rid of a half decent bottle of French red wine, and a good slug of brandy to boot. Do not worry if you can not find little “silverskin” onions for you can always buy them pickled. If you are using pickled onions be sure you sieve them and rinse thoroughly in warm water and allow to stand for a couple of hours to take the vinegar sting from them. Also whilst the recipe is called Coq au Vin you do not need to be particular about the sex of the chicken, a good hen is as good as a good coq as the French are wont to say!

Assemble:

A heavy based saucepan with lid ( large enough to hold the bird) A small frying pan A serving dish Carving knife and fork

France

Ingredients:

A plump breasted young chicken of about two pounds, complete with giblets (ask the butcher) 4 ounces of butter A tablespoon of plain flour A lemon juiced A bottle of French wine (for the purists make it Beaujolais) A glass of cooking brandy A pinch of brown sugar About 20 small silver skin onions Half a pound of button mushrooms cut into quarters. Salt and a peppermill Some fresh parsley

Then you: • Rub the bird both inside and out with salt and lemon juice, and give it a couple of turns with the peppermill over the surface.

•

Place the pan over a moderate heat and melt all but a teaspoonful of the butter then brown the bird all over.

•

This is the fun bit, if you can bear it, pour the brandy over the browned bird in the pan and “ light blue touch paper and retire”, have a dampened tea towel at the ready just in case.

•

When the flames have died down and the fire brigade has gone, add the giblets of the bird to the pan pour in your bottle of red wine and simmer slowly on the top of the stove for at least an hour. Check the tenderness of the bird with a carving fork and cook on for another half hour if required.

•

In a small frying pan melt the remaining butter and sauté the mushrooms until just cooked, and reserve to a plate.

•

In the frying pan sauté the onions, maybe a little more butter, and add a pinch of brown sugar to caramelize them (that is to brown and go slightly sticky) - reserve with the mushrooms.

•

Take the now tender chicken out of the pan and place on a warmed serving dish ready for carving, and allow to rest.

•

Sieve the remaining liquid into a small jug to remove the giblets, then reintroduce the liquid into the pan and add the mushrooms and onions and heat through on a moderate heat. If the sauce is not thick enough for your taste, mix an ounce of butter with a good ounce of plain flour till it’s a paste and add to the sauce a teaspoon at a time stirring constantly, when your preferred consistency has been reached, leave on a low simmer.

•

Carve the bird, ladle on the sauce and don the yellow jersey and cycle on, in triumph (as in Arc).

41

Offal Dish

Ris De Veau Braise Sweetbreads In Maderia

Contrary to the widely held belief sweetbreads are not the testicles of lambs, torn out by some demented shepherd on a snow covered hillside in March, they are in fact - either the thymus gland found in the neck, or the pancreas of young veal calves or lambs. They are not found on all supermarket shelves so ask your butcher (if you can find one) to order some for you, about a pound will suffice best to get calves pancreas they are the creamiest of all.

Ingredients:

A good pound of calf’s sweetbreads Some sea salt A lemon 6oz of mushrooms, thinly sliced 2 medium onions A small carrot, finely sliced A stick of celery, de strung and finely sliced 4oz of diced smoked bacon A large glass of dry white wine 5 large tomatoes peeled and deseeded A squirt of tomato puree Salt and a peppermill 4oz of butter 2 glasses of Maderia 2 teaspoonsful of cornflour A boquet garni A small bay leaf

Then you: •

Rinse the sweetbreads under a cold tap, then place in a bowl containing the juice of a lemon and a tablespoonful of sea salt. Leave to soak for at least two hours until the sweetbreads have turned white.

•

Remove the outer membrane of the sweetbreads with a sharp knife, then place the sweetbreads in a saucepan of cold water with some salt, pepper, a boquet garni, the bay leaf a little more lemon juice and then bring to the boil and simmer for at least one hour till the sweetbreads are tender.

•

Having drained and re trimmed the sweetbreads, place on a bread board and cover with a large plate on which you place a heavy weight to press and squeeze out any excess liquid.

•

Place the diced bacon in the frying pan and sauté until cooked and the fat crisped, then add two tablespoons of butter and sauté the sliced onions, carrots and celery for five minutes, then add half the chopped tomatoes - when all is cooked and turning brown add the white wine.

•

Half the mixture and place the sweetbreads on top then surround with the rest of the mixture and add half of the Madeira, season- cover and cook over a gentle heat for one hour When tender take out the sweetbreads with a slotted spoon and reserve to the warmed serving dish.

•

Mix the cornflour to a slack paste with cold water and gently stir into the mixture with the remains of the Madeira.

•

When nicely thickened and shiny, pour over the sweetbreads have a drag on the Gitanes and serve.

France

Assemble:

A bowl in which to soak the sweetbreads. A bread board A small frying pan An ovenproof casserole and lid A serving dish A heavy weight A slotted spoon

42

Vegetarian Dish

Ratatoullie

This is a most colourful dish and one of the pleasures of Provencal cooking – it’s quite permissible to introduce further vegetables to this recipe but if you do remember to add more garlic and check the seasoning. It’s worth remembering that this dish is a most refreshing cold dish in summer.

Assemble:

An oven proof casserole dish

Ingredients:

France

2 medium onions sliced into rings 2 large garlic cloves peeled and roughly sliced 1 medium aubergine, sliced and soaked in salted water then dried A large green pepper, deseeded and sliced. A red pepper deseeded and thinly sliced 3 medium courgettes, topped and tailed then sliced 4 large tomatoes, peeled and deseeded A few leaves of fresh Basil torn not chopped The spikes from a sprig of fresh Rosemary 3 ounces of olive oil and 1 ounce of unsalted butter Salt and a peppermill. ½ cup of vegetable stock.

Then you: • •

Melt the butter and olive oil in the casserole add the onions and garlic and fry until they have softened. Introduce the aubergine, courgette and peppers and fry for five minutes, then check and adjust the seasoning.

•

Now add the rest of the ingredients, cover and simmer over a modest heat, until the vegetables are tender but not too soft, about half and hour – just keep cooking and checking until you are happy, it’s as simple as that.

•

Put a curl of hair on your forehead and place your left hand on your right breast and ask “what about tonight Josephine?”

43

Pudding

Poached Peach With Toasted Almond Flakes

So you’re nearly at the end of your little French soirée so a gentle easy pudding will smooth the way to a little liqueur, a piece of dark chocolate and who knows!!

Ingredients: 2 large unblemished peaches, firm but not over ripe A glass of brandy or peach liqueur, dare use Archers? Four ounces of caster sugar A vanilla pod A nutmeg with grater Two teaspoonfuls of freshly toasted almond flakes

Then you: •

Place the peaches in a mixing bowl and pour over boiling water to cover, leave for ten minutes then drain and rinse under the cold water tap, taking care not to bruise. Carefully skin the peaches and reserve.

•

Split the vanilla pod down the middle and place in a small cup then pour in the sugar and leave for five minutes before removing the pod.

•

Put a pint of water into the pan add three tablespoons full of the sugar add the brandy or liqueur. Bring the liquid to the boil then turn to a simmer add the peaches and turn very gently in the simmering liquid for ten minutes. Then transfer to your serving dishes.

•

Add the remaining sugar to the liquid and allow the liquid to boil vigorously until the liquid is reduced by half and is starting to caramelize (go thicker and ever so slightly sticky).

•

Spoon the caramel over the peach and sprinkle over, so they stick to the peach, the toasted almonds, dust with a fine grating of nutmeg and serve wearing your foreign legion dress uniform and best Beau Geste smile.

France

Assemble:

A small sauce pan A mixing bowl A sharp paring knife A slotted spoon A fine grater

44

Your Trattoria in

Italy

Your Menu To start:

Minestrone rustica. Or Carpaccio alla Gorgonzola. Seafood:

Scampi alla Livornese: Or Segiola all’ Italiana Main courses: choose from

Salatimbocca Abbacchio brodettato Fettine di Maiale alla Sorrentina. Coniglio al vino Blanco. Filetti de Pollo alla Valdostano Coda di bue con Sedano Caponata Palermintana Pudding :

Zabaglione

45

46

Strange to remember that what we now know as Italy was just a mass of minor, and often warring states until they all amalgamated into one country in 1861, just a background that may help to explain the diverse and quite distinct cuisines that can be encountered from the Lakes of Garda to the once kingdom of Sicily. The huge wheat plains in the north, the Po and its rice valley the almost Island nature of the body of the country, from the alpine North to the volcanic south have left a people of widely different temperaments all welded together with a mutual hate of politicians and an absolute determination to make lunch last at least three hours and have it with as many members of their “family, of all ages,” as can be rustled up and seated preferably outside. Mention Italy and its food and at once huge heaps of “Spag – bol” or “Pizza” comes to mind with a bucket full of Chianti, whilst the latter is warmly welcomed the former has no place in the Italian kitchen, however large amounts of the most delicious pasta of all shapes and flavours certainly do, and they have never forgiven the Americans for putting pineapple on Pizza. If you chose to Eat out Italian by staying in, the following selection of goodies could encourage your entire bloodline to your dining table, best to keep stum and enjoy yourselves. Things you may need in the kitchen: A pasta machine -get one they are great fun for home made Pasta is a wonderful flavour and achievement. Whole pieces of Parmesan cheese and a good grater that can “shave” as well as various grades of grating. A big coarse grinding peppermill, tomato puree or passata, Olives- black and green, fresh basil, Vermouth and a masala wine

47

Recipes Starter : Carpaccio alla Gorgonzola Raw fillet of beef with blue cheese dressing Soup : Minestrone Thick vegetable soup Fish : Segiola all’ Italiana

Sole with courgettes Shellfish : Scampi alla Livornese Scampi with tuna in Tomato with rice Beef / Veal : Salatimbocca escallops with cured ham and cheese Lamb / Mutton : Abbacchio brodettato

Lamb in egg sauce Pork : Spezzatino con Peperoni Pork fillet with preserved peppers Game : Coniglio al vino Blanco Rabbit braised in white wine Chicken : Chicken Cacciatore

Chicken in white wine and mushroom sauce Offal : Coda di bue con Sedano Braised Oxtail with celery Vegie : Caponata Palermintana Sicilian sweet and sour vegetables Pudding : Zabaglione

Egg yolks and wine custard

48

Soup

Minestrone Soup

The signature dish of many a Northern Italian household is this winter broth of vegetables that seems to be constantly on the stove from November till March which gets added to when required, sustaining the whole family from womb to tomb.

Assemble:

A frying pan A large saucepan with lid A wooden spoon

Ingredients:

Italy

4 ounces of sliced green cabbage 1 medium onion One carrot 2 sticks of celery 2 courgettes 2 large “beef” tomatoes, blanched, skinned and deseeded 2 ounces of streaky bacon or better still pancetta 2 tablespoons of Italian olive oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 3 pints of water in which is dissolved a vegetable stock cube Half a tin of kidney beans, drained and rinsed Sage and fresh basil leaves, torn, not sliced 2 ounces of thin vermicelli A tablespoon of fresh parsley 2 tablespoons full of freshly grated parmesan cheese

Then you: • •

• • • •

Fry the diced bacon in the oil with crushed garlic and chopped onion, until the onion is soft, then transfer into the large sauce pan Add the chopped carrot and celery and fry with the rest of the oil in the saucepan for about ten minutes, stirring often - again transfer to the large saucepan. Add the water to the large saucepan and then the courgettes, sliced cabbage, pulped tomatoes and kidney beans and bring to the boil Simmer for about twenty minutes and then add the vermicelli and the sage/basil mixture and cook for a further ten minutes. Stir in the grated cheese a little at a time and adjust the seasoning. Serve with more grated parmesan and slices of rustic bread and a little, or better still, a lot of Verdi.

49

Starter

Carpaccio Alla Gorgonzola Raw Beef Fillet With Blue Cheese And Parmesan Dressing

This is delicious and looks great on the plate, however like many things if you are told what is actually being served, in this case raw beef, the preconceived prejudices that seem to haunt us from youth come tearing in with “ not for me thank you” and we miss such goodies, anyway do not ask for this dish “well done”

Ingredients:

6 slices of fillet steak cut wafer thin A teaspoon full of freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 tablespoonful of Italian Olive oil 2 ounces of tiny button mushrooms 2 tablespoons full of good mayonnaise 2 ounces of ripe and soft Gorgonzola cheese Tablespoonful of double cream Some flat leaf parsley for garnish

Then you:

• Trim any fat from the fillet slices, cover with cling

film to stop the meat tearing, and wet the mallet head and beat the slices wafer thin.

• Combine the olive oil and lemon in a cup by beating

with a fork and pour over the finely sliced mushrooms and grind the peppermill twice into the mixture

• Place three slices of beef on each plate and brush

over with oil mixture and portion half the mushrooms to each plate.

• Combine the gorgonzola, double cream and

mayonnaise in a bowl and beat with a fork until smooth.

• Garnish the plate with flat leaf parsley and shave

parmesan cheese over the meat.

• Take to the table with the sauce in a roman

toga with laurel crown and, of course, open toed sandals.

Italy

Assemble:

A wooden bread board A wooden meat mallet A pastry brush A cheese shaver A small bowl for serving the sauce

50

Fish Dish

Sogliola Alla Veeziana

Venetian Sole With Courgette Sauce

The Venetian has a greatly developed appreciation of sea food, which is hardly surprising as it runs past most of their front doors. This recipe calls for little sweet soles and the favored vegetable - the courgette, using plaice makes the dish look the same but nothing tastes quite like sole – that what they say about Venetians they are all sole ( o mio) !

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan An ovenproof casserole dish with lid 2 fish slices

Ingredients:

Italy

2 medium sized sole filleted by your fishmonger 2 tablespoons of extra virgin Italian olive oil 1 medium onion finely chopped. 3 tomatoes peeled and deseeded A teaspoon full of tomato puree 4 or 5 leaves of freshly torn basil 3 smallish courgettes, sliced thinly Seasoned flour for “dredging” the fish fillets A good knob of butter 2 tablespoons full of freshly grated parmesan cheese

Then you: • Heat half the oil in the frying pan and fry the onions until soft, then add the pulped tomato, the tomato puree, torn basil a little salt and pepper then simmer at a medium heat for about five minutes.

•

When the tomato and onion are nicely combined add the sliced courgettes, cover with the sauce and simmer for ten minutes or until the courgettes are nearly tender. Reserve to a warmed dish.

•

Clean the pan thoroughly and dry

•

Dredge each fillet front and rear in the seasoned flour.

•

Heat the rest of the oil and butter in the frying pan until it's frothing hot. Introduce the fillets and fry for about five minutes on each side until each has a golden colour.

•

Transfer to a casserole dish using the fish slices to maintain the shape of the fillets and then pour over the reserved courgette sauce and sprinkle with parmesan cheese and grill until nicely and uniformly brown.

•

Serve at once singing “O solo mio” with a big white hanky in your top pocket of your XXXL dinner jacket.

Spear fishing?

51

Shellfish Dish

Scampi Alla Livornese

Having only one landside border, the Mediterranean and Adriatic Seas provide a plentiful supply of fish, however langoustines and prawns are much sought after and command premium prices, hence the addition of the tin of tuna in the following recipe , the dish when served with fluffy white rice will be worth every penny . Buy the largest scampi you can find - IQF (individual quick frozen) if you are buying frozen.

Ingredients:

12 medium size scampi - more if you’re hungry Half pound of large ripe tomatoes blanched, peeled and deseeded 1 clove of garlic crushed A small tin of tuna in sunflower oil 3 slices of pancetta or streaky bacon 1 tablespoon of Italian olive oil A heaped tablespoon of plain flour A teaspoon of tomato puree A pinch of celery salt A teaspoon of dried oregano A heaped teaspoon of caster sugar 6 ounces of risotto rice Salt and a peppermill A cup of vegetable stock

Then you: •

Heat the oil in the sauce pan and fry the bacon and garlic for about three minutes then sieve in the flour and stir to blend and cook.

•

Add the stock slowly stirring all the time, when fully blended add the tomato pulp, tomato puree, celery salt, oregano and the sugar ( to take the bitterness from the tomato), bring to the boil, turn to simmer and adjust seasoning with the salt and peppermill.

•

Place about three pints of boiling water in the small saucepan and add a little salt, introduce the rice and continue to cook at just below boiling for about ten minutes.

•

Flake the tuna into the tomato sauce and turn with a wooden spoon. About five minutes before the rice is done, put the completely unfrozen scampi into the sauce and make sure all are covered and stir often, remember that the more you heat protein the harder it will become, and you do not want the scampi to be chewy, just heated through.

•

Test the rice by squeezing a grain between finger and thumb; it should be just firm, cook till it is to your taste.

• •

Sieve the rice, add a little olive oil on top and put into a warmed serving dish then pour over the scampi with all the sauce, garnish with parsley. Then serve with a horizontal stripped shirt, flared black trousers and straw boater ( leave the pole in the water feature in the garden.)

Italy

Assemble:

A heavy based sauce pan A small saucepan for the rice A sieve and wooden spoon A mixing bowl

52

Beef / Veal Dish

Ragu Au Bolonga Rich Beef Sauce

A bit like Spain the fine lines between beef and veal can be a bit blurred, however on the whole the Italians are great carnivores and love eating dead cattle of all ages. This next recipe is basically for a sauce which can be served with all kinds of pasta, rice, meat or even fish if you’re pushed. It is often masqueraded as the infamous “Bolognese” as in Spag – Bol, as if hijacked by the good burghers of Bolonga, not so - its found lurking in all the dark corridors of Italian cooking just ask Mama , any Italian Mama, she will have a better recipe than this, but you will have to marry her daughter to get it.

Assemble:

A large heavy based saucepan A wooden spoon

Ingredients:

Italy

1 ounce of unsalted butter 4 slices of pancetta or unsmoked streaky bacon, diced 1 medium onion chopped finely A small carrot diced A stick of celery diced 1 pound of decent braising steak minced by your butcher 4 ounces of chopped chicken livers A wine glass of dry martini or Nolly Prat vermouth Half a pint of beef stock or a cube dissolved 1 tablespoon full of tomato puree A nutmeg to grate Salt and a peppermill 2 tablespoons full of double cream

Then you: • Melt the butter in the saucepan and when hot add the diced pancetta (bacon) , onion, carrot and celery and fry for fifteen minutes stirring so the mixture does not “catch” the bottom of the pan – if it does you will have to start again as you will never lose the charred flavour.

•

Add the minced beef and flatten into the pan so it evenly browns, when done on one side turn with a fish slice. When both sides are evenly brown, stir in the chicken livers and the vermouth, stirring strongly to thoroughly mix, bring to the boil and cook until only a small amount of liquid is left.

•

Now stir in the tomato puree and add the stock, again stirring to unify the mixture, check seasoning and then grate a generous pinch of nutmeg into the mixture.

•

Bring back to the boil and reduce heat to a gentle simmer, stir and cover with the pan lid, stir every fifteen minutes.

• •

Check the seasoning again and adjust if required, now fold in the double cream, until fully absorbed. Pour into a large pre heated dish full of your favourite cooked pasta, take to the table taking care to pinch the old girl’s bottom whilst giving her the wink – Good luck !

53

Lamb Dish

Abbacchio Brodettato

Casserole Of Spring Lamb With Egg Sauce

Young lamb is a highly prized meat, a bit like suckling pig in Spain. As you can tell by the recipe Abbacchio is for such a young lamb, or often kid (difficult to find in England). However for the sake of a month or two you can use spring lamb, best to get the fillet at the top of the leg, ask your butcher to remove the bone and give it to you, why I hear you ask - you are going to cook it in the casserole but not gnaw it- gnaw what I mean Harry ?

Ingredients:

About a pound of fillet leg of young lamb trimmed and cut into small cubes The bone cut from the fillet of lamb, should be open on both sides so you can see the marrow 2 tablespoon full of Italian extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons full of unsalted butter A small onion peeled and finely chopped 2 good cloves of fresh garlic, peeled and crushed 2 tablespoons full of fresh sage - if you have to use dried 2 wine glasses of dry white wine Half a cup of chicken stock 2 lemons 2 large fresh egg yolks

Then you: •

Melt the oil and butter together in the casserole, when hot stir in the cubed lamb and continually stir until uniformly brown – reserve to a warmed dish.

•

Add the onions and garlic to the pan and sauté until the onions are soft then add the sage, stock and wine and marrow bone if you still have it, and bring to the boil.

•

While the liquid is still boiling reintroduce the browned lamb, cover with the lid, reduce the heat so the casserole just simmers, and stir every quarter of an hour, after about an hour and a half the lamb should be tender to the touch.

•

Grate the zest from one of the lemons and set aside. Squeeze the lemons’ juice into a dish and add the two fresh egg yolks whilst whisking the mixture, when fully integrated add the reserved lemon zest.

•

To the lemon and egg mixture add about three tablespoons full of the casserole liquid, beating with the whisk all the time.

•

•

Remove the bone from the casserole and gently beat into the casserole the egg and lemon mixture and heat quietly for about a couple of minutes or until the sauce thickens, a final taste to adjust seasoning if required. Adjust your Spartacus neat little leather skirt and serve waving your gladiator’s trident to the adoring multitude with thumbs up.

Italy

Assemble:

An oven proof casserole dish with lid A mixing bowl A small whisk A wooden spoon

54

Pork Dish

Fettine Di Maiale Alla Sorrentina Sorrento Style Pork Chops

In most European countries you can find a series of recipes that involve pork which seem to lend themselves to wintertime, it is thought that this dates back to almost pagan times when the village pig was ritually slaughtered for salting and sausage making before winter set in, so try this hearty casserole from Sorrento when the nights draw in.

Assemble:

A large heavy based frying pan A serving dish A wooden spoon

Then you: •

Heat the oil in the frying pan and when nice and hot, fry the garlic until it starts to brown, when it does remove with a slotted spoon and give it to the dog.

•

Dry the chops with kitchen towel on both sides and then lightly sprinkle a pinch of salt on each side and make a series of small cuts around the perimeter of the chops ( to stop them curling as you fry them) Fry in the pan of hot oil until uniformly brown on both sides, reduce the heat and continue to lightly fry for a further twenty minutes, then reserve to the warmed serving dish.

•

Add the strips of pepper and the pulped tomatoes to the pan, mix in the tomato puree, stir to thoroughly combine then cover with the pan lid and gently cook for twenty minutes after which time add the sliced mushrooms, adjust the seasoning, cover and cook for a further five minutes.

•

Add the cooked chops back into the pan, cover with the sauce then pour in as much stock as you think fit to achieve the sauce texture you require and simmer until all is at a uniform heat. Serve in the warmed serving dish , garnishing with the chopped parsley.

•

Adjust your voice to a mellow tenor and take to the table warbling “Come back to Sorrento” with a couple of tickets to Capri in your top pocket.

Ingredients:

Italy

2 boned loin pork chops cut to your appetite 2 tablespoons full of extra virgin Italian olive oil A large clove of garlic crushed 2 large green pepper deseeded and sliced into thin strips 3 large tomatoes blanched, skinned and deseeded 2 teaspoons full of tomato puree Quarter of a pound of button mushrooms thinly sliced Salt and a peppermill A tablespoon of chopped parsley Half a cup of vegetable stock.

55

Game Dish

Coniglio Al Vino Blanco

Rabbit Casseroled In White Wine

They love a big bang our Italian hunters (don’t we all?) and have some of the best sporting gun manufacturers in Europe, and you thought Martini was just a drink! This is a simple country recipe and tastes of the hills and mountains when you use fresh herbs, so it’s worth the trouble finding them if this is to be on your menu, you have a day to find them whilst the rabbit is marinating, get your hiking boots on!

A large bowl An oven proof casserole and lid A slotted spoon A holding plate A serving dish

Ingredients:

A young rabbit butchered for the “pot”- your butcher will do this. 2 pints of water 2 tablespoons full of vinegar 4 tablespoons of unsalted butter 2 tablespoons full of olive oil A medium onion sliced A Garlic clove A large carrot 2 sticks of celery A large cup of dry white wine Fresh Oregano and rosemary Butter and flour mixed – (Beurre manie)

Then you: •

Pour the water and vinegar into a bowl and having rubbed salt around all the joints place the rabbit into the mixture and leave for eight hours turning twice.

•

When the time is up remove the rabbit pieces from the marinade and discard the liquid. Pat the rabbit dry with a dry cloth.

•

Heat the butter and oil in the casserole and add the crushed garlic and cook until just brown, then remove and add the rabbit then fry turning until the pieces are a uniform brown colour, then reserve to a holding plate.

•

Now add the onions to the casserole dish and fry until they are soft, then add the chopped celery and carrot and fry for a further five minutes. Tear the herbs into the casserole, pour in the wine to cover and bring to the boil.

•

Return the rabbit to the casserole and baste each piece, put on the lid and cook in a moderate (180) oven for an hour, then turn the pieces and cook for a further half hour or until the rabbit is tender. Remove to a warmed plate

•

Put the casserole on the top of the stove and bring to the boil, reduce the heat and stir in the butter and flour mix and more torn herbs, and stir until the sauce thickens.

•

Add the rabbit to the thickened sauce and take to the table on a small motor scooter with black helmet, and a Burberry scarf and shades the size of dinner plates.

Italy

Assemble:

56

Chicken Dish

Filetti De Pollo Alla Valdostano

Chicken Breasts Stuffed And Served With Ham And Cheese

Go out to any Italian restaurant and you will find at least one offering of something “alla Valdostano” maybe veal, turkey or as here chicken. It’s fairly simple to nail a bit of ham on something spread over a bit of cheese and bang it under a grill – however there is something more to it if you want to do it properly, maybe that’s why you’re doing the cooking and going out by staying in ( only better!)

Assemble:

Italy

A small dish in which to break and beat an egg A bread board A large heavy based frying pan A grill with rack A flour duster A side plate

Ingredients: 2 plump chicken breasts

A dusting of plain seasoned flour A tablespoon of unsalted butter A tablespoon full of extra virgin Italian olive oil 4 slices of dry cured ham, Parma is good 4 ounces of Mozzarella cheese A clove of garlic A grating of zest of lemon A pinch of Paprika

Then you: •

Chop the garlic clove finely and cream with a little salt on a saucer, then add a knob of butter, the lemon zest and combine into a paste. Then break a fresh egg into the cup and beat with a fork until combined, and pour onto a plate.

•

Place the chicken breasts on the board and with your sharpest knife make an incision in the centre side of each breast lenghtways to form a pocket.

• • •

With a teaspoon put half of the garlic butter in each pocket. Dust your board with the seasoned flour and dredge the breasts to coat both sides, and then dip into the beaten egg again to coat both sides. Heat the oil and the rest of the butter in the frying pan, when hot fry the breast for about five minutes a side or until they are golden, then transfer onto the grill rack

•

Now place a piece of the ham onto the top of each chicken breast, and then cover with the sliced mozzarella and from about two feet sprinkle a pinch of paprika over each fillet and place under a hot grill, for about a minute or until the cheese is bubbling.

•

Put on your best Inter Milan shirt and serve chanting “INNNNNNTTTTERRRR”

57

Offal Dish

Coda Di Bbue Con Sedano Braised Oxtail With Celery

You may or may not regard Oxtail as offal, either way it’s an often discarded piece of the animal carcass and qualifies for some title. The Italians love this full and unique flavour, perhaps because the joints within the tail are supposed to confer magic powers. This dish is best cooked and then kept in a cool place for a couple of days to allow all the flavours to mingle before you then reheat and serve.

Ingredients:

8 pieces of Oxtail chopped into about three inch pieces (ask the butcher to do this for you) Plain flour seasoned for dredging the oxtail 3 tablespoons full of extra virgin Italian olive oil A large onion peeled and sliced 2 cloves of garlic peeled and crushed A large glass of strong red wine A cup of beef stock 3 large tomatoes, blanched, skinned, deseeded and pulped A tablespoon of tomato puree A fresh boquet garni A bay leaf 5 sticks of celery chopped A teaspoon of cornflour mixed in half a tablespoon full of cold water

Then you: • Sieve the seasoned flour onto the bread board

and dredge the oxtail pieces in it until they are fully coated.

•

Add half the oil into the frying pan and when hot introduce the oxtail pieces and fry. When they are all evenly brown all over, remove to the casserole dish.

•

Clean the frying pan with kitchen towel, add the remaining oil and the chopped onion and chopped garlic and fry until the onions just start to brown

•

Pour in the wine, turn up the heat and let the liquid boil, then turn down the heat and simmer until the liquid has been reduced by half, stirring all the time.

•

Now pour in the stock into the reduced liquid and bring to the boil, stirring constantly.

•

Pour the boiling liquid over the oxtail pieces in the casserole dish and add the tomato pulp, tomato puree, bay leaf , bouquet garni, now bring to the boil and then cover with the lid and braise in a moderate oven (170) for four hours

•

Blanch the cut celery stalks with boiling water and leave for five minutes before draining, add to the casserole and cook for a further half and hour.

•

Remove from the oven, take off the lid and leave for about half an hour, after which time skim all the “scum type matter”from the top of the casserole, leave for another twenty minutes and clear any remains from the surface

•

Mix the corn flour with the cold water in a cup and stir into the casserole, bring to the boil and cook for two minutes, until the liquid is smooth and thick

•

Serve wearing your best Medici doublet and hose, with the big hat with an ostrich feather in it.

Italy

Assemble:

A large frying pan A deep ovenproof casserole with lid A heat proof dish A skimming spoon A bread board

58

Vegetarian Dish

Caponata Palermitana

Vegetable Casserole Palermo Style

After the “toe” of Italy comes the ancient Kingdom of Sicily, whilst The Kings have gone their successors and local rulers are regarded as “family”, just ask Marlon Brando. This, sweet and sour concoction is often eaten as a main meal in the late evening garnished with quails eggs – fear not you can use hens eggs without penalty.

Assemble:

A small sauce pan A colander A frying pan A large heavy based frying pan A wooden spoon

Italy

Ingredients: 2 aubergines

2 sticks of celery 3 tablespoons full of extra virgin Italian olive oil. A medium onion peeled and chopped 4 large vine tomatoes, blanched, peeled, deseeded and pulped 2 teaspoons full of tomato puree 2 tablespoons full of red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons full of caster sugar 2 tablespoons full of chopped capers 9 stoned green and four stoned black olives, halved 2 hardboiled eggs cut into eight A sprinkling of flaked almonds

Then you: •

Remove the stalk end of the aubergine and cut the rest into cubes of about half and inch, put into a colander over a pan and sprinkle over a generous pinch of salt, covering all the cubes. Leave for an hour then rinse under cold water and pat dry with kitchen roll. Discard any liquid in the pan.

•

Put the cut celery into a pan of boiling water and cook for half and hour, then drain.

•

Heat the oil in the large frying pan and introduce the dry aubergines and fry stirring often for about ten minutes till they are tender, then reserve to a warmed dish.

•

Clean the frying pan with a piece of kitchen roll and add the remaining oil. When hot add the chopped onions and cook until they are soft,

•

Now add the celery and cook for two minutes before adding the tomato pulp and tomato puree, stir and simmer gently whist the onion and celery cook through, adjusting the seasoning as required.

•

Now add the reserved aubergines, capers, and olives stirring to mix, then add the vinegar followed by the sugar and adjust for sweet or sour flavour to your taste with more vinegar or sugar.

•

Reserve to a cool serving dish and chill before garnishing with the egg pieces and flaked almonds, serve and make the old girl an offer she can’t refuse hinting at horse’s heads.

59

Pudding

Zabaglione

Egg Yolk And Wine Custard

Without doubt the pudding by which all Italian cooks are judged and each will have a “secret ingredient” handed down from her/ his mother. This is the basic format and you will be able to invent your own little “secret” recipe to hand down to your bemused children when the will is read – “to my beloved ------ I bequeath my Zabaglione recipe”

A heat proof glass bowl A “balloon” whisk A small pan to use as a holder for the basin (test it first !) Two long stemmed wine glass

Ingredients:

The yolk of 4 fresh eggs 2 ounces of very fine caster sugar A vanilla pod (my secret) 6 tablespoons full of Marsala wine The zest of a fresh lemon Sponge fingers as garnish

Then you: • • • •

Open up the vanillas pod length ways and scrape out half the seeds with the back of a knife and put into the basin. Add the sugar a little at a time whilst whisking constantly, keep whisking until the mixture is thickening and starting to colour pale yellow. Heat some water in the pan to just below boiling and then put the basin of egg mixture on top of the pan – the bowl MUST NOT touch the water, then whisk in the Marsala a little at a time.

•

Continue to whisk vigorously until the mixture expands and forms a foamy thick mass that just holds its shape when the whisk is lifted through the mixture.

•

Pour into the wine glasses and arrange the sponge fingers on the saucer around the glass’s base.

•

A lean time in Pisa

Very carefully separate the yolks from the whites of the fresh eggs, using only those that have the best “marigold” colour, into the glass bowl.

Serve to any Rossini overture, with your Casanova frilly shirt open to the waist and thigh boots nicely polished.

Italy

Assemble:

60

Your Bodega in

Spain

Your Menu

To start: Ajo Blanco con Uvas or Tapas: Banderillas Seafood: Cataplana or Marmitako Main Course: Choose From Terna a la Velenciana Caldereta de Cordero Cerdo e Chorizo con habas Perdices estofadas al chocolate Gallina en pepitoria Rinones al Jerez Pisto manchego Pudding: Torrijas

61

62

Just about everybody in Great Britain has been to Spain, and all at the same time or so it seems when you are trying to have a quiet kip on “the playa” In fact the most feared chorus known to man, apart from” Last Orders Gentlemen Per - lease”, must be that heard belting down the Easy Jet cabin “we’re off to Sunny Spain so Viva Hispannya”. The result of all this is that Spanish cuisine must be the most familiar in all Europe – don’t you just love those Weavos e bacon, and what about that rice with the chicken and prawns made by Ella , fancy having a dish named after you – pie ella. Being warmer than most of France, and yet having the highest capital city in Europe at 7000feet above sea level, Spain has a lush varied and imaginative cuisine bursting with the unexpected flavours from the well tended fields, wild forests and Atlantic and Mediterranean coastlines, from Tuna fish to Toro – chorizo to calamari’s this country is a fiesta of flavour And of course they have that miracle cure for hunger pangs – Las Tapas, little bits of the most varied and often heavily disguised favourites of the local population, all designed to assist in the absorption of large amount of “La Ina fresca” – Ice cold dry sherry – surely the Angels drink this. So many dishes so little time – anyway pick any one of these to go with the starter / Soup and pudding , close your eyes and back you go to that little bodega just off Calle whatisitsname – turn up the sunray lamp and lets get cooking, por favor! Things you may need: All manner of Sherries, smoked paprika it is called pimention, saffron shreds or powder.

63

Recipes

Soup : Ajo Blanco con Uvas Cold almond soup with grapes Starter (Tapas) : Banderillas Skewers of peppers, olive and anchovies Fish : Marmitako Tuna steaks with potato Shellfish : Cataplana Clam and crispy pork stew Beef / Veal : Terna a la Velenciana Veal escallops with orange and fino sherry sauce Lamb / Mutton : Caldereta de Cordero Herders Lamb stew. Pork : Cerdo e Chorizo con Veduras Pork and spicy sausage with broad beans Game : Perdices Estofadas al Chocolate Stewed partridge with chocolate sauce Chicken : Gallina en Pepitoria Chicken in spiced almond sauce Offal : Rinones al Jerez Kidneys in sherry sauce Vegie: Pisto Manchego The Spanish version of the Basque Piperade. Pudding : Torrijas Bread and butter pudding with style (and honey and sherry)

64

Soup

Ajo Blanco Con Uvas

Cold Soup Of Almonds And Garlic With Grapes

Because of the summer heat in Spain, soup has been adapted to the consumer’s requirement to keep cool and is often served cold; it’s what sets them apart from us, who are used to having hot soup served cold in many of our native eateries. Perhaps the most famous of Spain’s soups is Gazpacho, the cold tomato and garlic wonder, here is a white “Gazpacho” made with Spain’s most prolific nut, no not Don Quixote, the almond.

Assemble:

A food processor, with blender and blitzer A large bowl A damp tea towel

Spain

Ingredients:

250 grams about six slices of stale white bread, with the crusts and edges cut off 150 grams of whole raw almonds 2 cloves of garlic, preferably purple 1 large fresh egg 2 tablespoons of white wine vinegar Half a tumbler of good pure virgin olive oil, green tint 1 pint of water 6 white and six black grapes A tablespoonful of currants having been soaked in amontillado sherry A pinch of salt

Then you: • •

Crumble the stale bread into the bowl and moisten with water and allow to soak for half an hour. Cover the almonds with boiling water and allow to stand for ten minutes.

•

Drain the excess moisture from the bread and reserve the bread into the blender.

•

Take out almonds and rub thoroughly in the damp tea towel till all the skins, that means all, have been removed.

•

Blitz the almonds in the Blitzer until they are as fine as possible, and add to the bread in the blender.

•

Put the rest of the ingredients into the blender and blend at high speed until you have smooth milk like liquid, season with salt only - to your taste.

•

Adjust texture of liquid with more oil as required, only a little at a time blitzing as you go.

•

Remove from blender to the large bowl and place in refrigerator for one hour before serving.

•

De-seed the grapes to add with the currants to the bowl.

•

Flamenco dance to the table shouting Ole, not forgetting to click your castanets.

65

Starter

Banderillias

Skewers Of Olives, Anchovy And Red Peppers

Just about anything from cold tripe to tuna fish eyes can be found as tapas if you look hard enough, they are supposed to be just enough to calm your hunger as you quaff copious quantities of “ fino” – it works for - if you have enough Fino you forget how hungry you where (and everything else!) This Tapas is named after the banderillias from the bulling, hence the skewers, for the faint hearted they are the brightly coloured sticks that you take home as souvenirs with which to prick the roast potatoes.

Ingredients:

1 large red pepper, deseeded and cut into six strips, lengthways 6 large stoned green olives 5 anchovy fillets Half a tablespoon of Spanish olive oil Half a teaspoon full of chopped oregano A pinch of fennel seeds and a pinch of dried chilli flakes 25 grams of Manchego cheese

Don't try this at home

Then you: •

• • •

Place the six strips of red pepper in the roasting tin and place in a hot oven, about 220, until the skin just starts to blister – about 20 minutes. Take out and place in a plastic bag which you then seal When the pepper has cooled a little take out from the plastic bag and remove the skin by peeling in one strip with a knife. Now wrap an anchovy fillet around an olive and then roll inside the pepper strip, and secure with a skewer or a toothpick. Place the skewers on a baking tray and drizzle the olive oil over the skewers ensuring that all parts are coated, and then sprinkle over the oregano, fennel seeds and chilli flakes.

•

Lastly grate the cheese over the skewers and cook in the oven at 220 for five minutes or until the cheese starts to bubble and turn golden brown.

•

Remove to a plate covered with salad leaves and a piece of fresh cut baguette, fill up the schooner glasses of chilled “La Ina” humming the chorus of Carmen – Toreador etc. with your upper lip curled in distain.

Spain

Assemble:

A small roasting tin A baking tray Six wooden skewers or toothpicks

66

Fish Dish

Marmitako

Tuna Steaks With Potatoes

Freshly caught Tuna is landed every day into the fishing villages all along the Atlantic coast and makes a nightmare inducing sight as they “butcher “ the fish, for as you know their flesh is red and - well just imagine – no don’t or you will be back on Elm Street as soon as you close your eyes. This dish is popular along the coast from San Sebastian to San Everywhere

Assemble:

A large heavy based frying pan A wooden spoon A fish slice

Ingredients:

Spain

2 tablespoonfuls of good Spanish olive oil 2 medium firm onions, peeled and sliced A large clove of garlic peeled and crushed Three medium potatoes peeled and cut into ¼ inch thick rounds 2 small red peppers, deseeded and cut into strips 2 teaspoonfuls of pimenton 2 fresh tuna steaks about 0ne inch thick Salt and a peppermill A cup and a half of vegetable stock

Then you: •

Heat the oil in the large frying pan until the surface moves

•

Add onions and garlic and sauté until they are soft

•

Add the potatoes and peppers and fry for a further five minutes, stirring with the wooden spoon.

•

Add the pimenton and stir until fully mixed, now taste and adjust seasoning with salt and twists of the peppermill.

•

Heat a tablespoon full of oil in the small frying pan and fry each side of the Tuna until it is just light brown, then add to the larger pan with the potato mixture.

•

Add the stock to the large pan and cover with its lid and adjust the heat to simmer.

•

After about twenty minutes the tuna should flake easily, test it gently with a knife, then serve onto warmed plates with the sauce on top.

•

Do not forget to put on the Julio Doubleglazsias record.

It's behind you!

Shellfish Dish

67

Cataplana

Clam And Pork Stew

Spain like France is blessed with both an Atlantic and Mediterranean coastline and their cooking reflects their love of all thing from the sea, so much so that you cannot drive down the M1 without being overtaken by a massive behemoth of a “lorry” (they have smaller villages in Spain) full to the brim of shellfish caught off Scotland and the North of England. This is a wonderful taste of Spain’s Atlantic coast and a great introduction to “pimenton” – powdered smoked red peppers.

A heavy based casserole dish with lid A small frying pan A wooden spoon

Ingredients:

120 ml of Spanish Olive Oil A heaped tablespoon of “pimenton” – smoked paprika powder 400 grams of fresh clams 250 grams of belly pork cut into small cubes. 2 medium onions 1 clove of garlic 4 slices of streaky bacon, or pancetta, cut into a fine dice 2 red peppers, deseeded and cut into long strips 2 large firm tomatoes peeled and deseeded A small red chilli A handful of chopped parsley and coriander

Then you:

• Roll the pork cubes in the pimenton on a board. • Heat the oil in the casserole dish until hot and the

surface moves, then add the pork and all of the pimenton from the board and fry for about five to eight minutes, or until the pork is crispy all over.

• Peel and dice the garlic and the onions and mix

with the sliced peppers and diced bacon and add to the casserole with the pork, and sauté for about five minutes mixing with a wooden spoon.

• Add the tomato pulp, finely chopped chilli and

the chopped parsley and coriander and sauté for a further five minutes stirring with the wooden spoon

• Now add all the clams at once, mix and cover

straight away with the lid and shake sternly, cook for a further five minutes or until all the clams have opened, discarding the ones that don’t. Shake the casserole dish from time to time to aid mixing.

• Serve to deep dishes wearing your matador’s

hat, suit of lights and ballet pumps.

All clammed up

Spain

Assemble:

68

Beef / Veal Dish

Terna A La Valenciana

Veal Escallops With Orange & Sherry Sauce

Veal and beef may get lost in translation as the true definition of veal and its subsequent transition into beef is often a matter of days. Generally the lighter colour of the “veal” or the darker colour of the “beef” will give you a choice in Spain. In England everyone keeps thinking of the poor little calves, denied sunlight or exercise to keep their flesh lily white – an urban myth difficult to confound. The other myth is that the beef shortage is because a small chap in a funny suit dispatches them every Sunday at five in the afternoon.

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A slotted spoon A wooden spoon Four cocktail sticks

Spain

Ingredients:

2 veal escallops hammered with a damp mallet 4 slices of lean smoked ham A large onion 1 orange, a bitter Seville is best if you can find one Half a cup of freshly squeezed orange juice A large schooner of dry sherry – Fino “la Ina” is best 1 teaspoon for cornflour mixed to a fine paste with water 2 tablespoons of good Spanish olive oil Salt and a peppermill

Then you: • • • •

• •

Place the escallops on a board, cover with cling film (to prevent the meat tearing) and hammer flat until about the thickness of a quarter inch. Rub escallops all over with salt, black pepper, and place on each a slice of the smoked ham and trim to size. Roll up each escallop and secure with cocktail sticks to maintain the roll. Place olive oil in the pan and heat till the surface moves, and then fry the escallops all over until uniformly brown. Then reserve to a warmed serving plate. Add the peeled and sliced onion to the pan and fry until golden and soft. Grate the orange over the pan through a fine grater, taking care not to introduce any white pith to a total of about one tablespoonful, pour the orange juice and dry sherry into the pan and bring to the boil.

•

Lower the heat and return the escallop rolls to the pan and simmer for up to half an hour or until the meat is tender and fully cooked.

•

Reserve the rolls to the warming dish once again, then add the corn flour paste to the pan and cook over a low heat until the sauce thickens to the smooth texture you prefer.

•

Remove the cocktail sticks from the rolls, pour over the sauce and finely grate a further dusting of orange rind on top and serve wearing Guardia Civil flat backed hat in polished patent leather.

69

Lamb / Mutton Dish

Caldereta De Cordero Herders Lamb Stew

Lamb and goat have played a big role in the collective Spanish diet over its long culinary history with the Moorish conquest and Judaic migrations forbidding pork within the national diet. This is a simple herders dish often cooked out doors, so if it’s a fine night why not set up the table on the patio get down the guitar and serve

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons of Spanish olive oil 4 cloves of garlic A pound and a half of roughly chopped lamb A slice of lamb’s liver in one piece, about 4 ounces 2 large red peppers, deseeded A bay leaf 1 tablespoon full of pimenton 4 whole black peppercorns Salt A cup of water

Another ham actor

Then you: •

Heat the olive oil in the casserole over a high heat and fry the peeled and crushed garlic for four minutes, then take out with a slotted spoon and reserve

•

Carefully introduce the lamb and the liver to the casserole dish taking care against it spluttering.

•

When the liver has just browned take it out and reserve with the garlic.

•

Cut the deseeded red peppers into a fine dice and add to the casserole with the bay leaf and sprinkle in the pimenton and stir.

•

Add the water to the lamb casserole and cover and cook for about an hour over a low heat. After half and hour stir and taste to adjust seasoning if required, checking tenderness of lamb with a fork.

•

In the mortar or blender blitz together the fried garlic, the cooked liver and the peppercorns, using a little of the cooking liquid as required, then add to the casserole,

•

Cook for a further ten minutes, check and adjust seasoning and serve hot whilst stamping your feet in your high heeled black patent leather shoes and trousers that button up to your armpits.

Spain

Assemble:

A heatproof casserole dish and lid A slotted spoon A pestle and mortar, better still a blender

70

Pork Dish

Cerdo E Chorizo Con Habas Pork And Sausage With Broad Beans

Without doubt one of the abiding flavours of Spain is that of the Chorizo sausage – that gnarled, flame red stick of Andalusia dynamite. This is a recipe from Catalonia where the green beans grow in great profusion, it’s a bit if a faff having not only to peel the pods to get at the beans but then, peel away the grey surface of the bean to revel its wonderful true colour. If you cannot be bothered to do this pick something else, for this dish does not taste the same with unpeeled beans - so there!

Assemble:

An oven proof casserole dish and lid A wooden spoon A dish for the bean skin

Then you:

Spain

•

Heat the oil in the casserole dish and when hot add the chopped onion, chopped garlic and diced bacon and fry, stirring often, until the onion is soft, about ten minutes.

•

Season the cubed pork with salt and a couple of twirls of the peppermill and fry with the onions for about five minutes until the meat is turning brown. Now add the chorizo and continue to cook for a further ten minutes stirring often.

•

Now make sure that the beans are properly peeled and no grey outer skin remains, then add to the casserole and cook for a further five minutes.

•

Add the chicken stock and white wine and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, put on the lid and cook at a gentle simmer for half an hour, after which time remove the lid and allow the liquid to reduce.

•

Finally season to your taste and serve wearing a Pablo Picasso beret, a Salvador Dali moustache and a wicked grin.

Ingredients:

Half a pound of trimmed loin of pork, cubed 4 slices of rind less streaky bacon Four ounces of strong chorizo sausage cut into thin slices 2 medium red onions peeled and diced 2 cloves of garlic finely chopped 2 tablespoons of Spanish olive oil 1 ½ pounds of shelled and peeled broad beans 1 bay leaf A tablespoon full of fresh sage, a little less of the dried if you must A large glass of dry white wine Half a pint of chicken stock.

Has been's

71

Game Dish

Perdices Estofadas Al Chocolate Stewed Partridge With Chocolate Sauce

The Spaniard is noted for his pleasure in the chase and its hopeful conclusion – the slaughter of small animals and birds which abound throughout the Iberian peninsular. This strange recipe is for Spanish Partridge which might prove difficult to obtain in England, however there is an abundance of the grey variety shot from September till the end of January, but this is not the intriguing part which is; the sauce is of chocolate – yes chocolate. This sauce, whilst now a rarity, was once used, from the sixteenth century, to illustrate the Spanish conquest of South America from whence they brought chocolate into Europe for the first time. So for the novelty, and the surprisingly good flavour this little gem is worth a spin, however remember you are supposed to be cooking with the stuff not scoffing it

Ingredients:

2 plump partridge cleaned and singed to remove fine feathers 2 tablespoons of Spanish olive oil 1 tablespoon of white wine vinegar 2 cloves of fresh garlic Half a pound of small white pickling onions A bay leaf 2oz of 80% bitter chocolate Salt and a peppermill 2 cups of chicken stock

Don Josê manufacturing

a siesta

Then you: • •

Heat the olive oil in the casserole to a high heat Now introduce the partridges into the pan with the diced garlic and bay leaf and sauté, turning often until the birds are brown all over, take out and reserve to a warmed plate.

•

Add the onions a little salt and a turn of the peppermill, and enough stock to cover then simmer until onions are soft, add the vinegar and cover with the lid and cook for ten minutes.

•

Put back the birds into the casserole and cook over a medium heat for about one hour or until the birds are tender.

•

Melt the chocolate in a small bowl using some of the hot liquid from the casserole and stir into a smooth paste.

•

Pour the chocolate mixture into the casserole and bring to the boil stirring often.

•

Transfer to serving dish spooning the onions and sauce evenly over each bird, and serve wearing stick on “Grandee beard”, humming Granada and direct the approach of a large number of Galleons coming up the channel.

Spain

Assemble:

An ovenproof casserole with lid A wooden spoon

72

Chicken Dish

Gallina En Pepitoria

Chicken In Spiced Almond Sauce

Farmyard fowl are favoured food right throughout Spain and have been since medieval times as this recipe confirms for it was first mentioned in a Castilian cook book of Hispanic – Arab origin written about the thirteenth century- and here’s me thinking this is a nice modern cookery book! King Solomon was right “there’s nothing new under the sun” even el sol!

Assemble:

An oven proof casserole with lid A pestle and mortar or blender A small sauce pan for boiling 2 eggs A slotted spoon A wooden spoon

Spain

Ingredients:

2 chicken breasts with skin on 3 tablespoonfuls of Spanish olive oil A thick slice of stale bread with the crusts removes 6 almonds, skins removed 2 cloves of Garlic peeled and crushed A medium onion finely chopped 1 ½ cups of chicken stock 1 teaspoon of lemon juice A pinch of each of the following; Saffron threads, ground cinnamon ground cloves and cumin seeds The yolk of two hard boiled eggs Salt and a peppermill

Then you: • •

• •

• •

Heat the oil in the casserole till it is just moving. Rub the bread with the crushed garlic then crumble in largish pieces into the oil with the garlic and the peeled almonds, and fry until the bread is crisp. Remove all from the casserole with a slotted spoon and reserve to a warm dish. Now fry the chicken in the same oil and turn until the skin has browned. Remove and set aside with the fried bread etc Now fry the onions in the same oil until they are soft and then return the chicken to the pan, cover with the stock, add the lemon juice, cinnamon and cloves and combine well, cover with the lid and cook over a moderate heat until the chicken is tender – check after forty minutes, while you’re at it check the seasoning and adjust to your taste. Put the saffron threads, cumin seeds, the fried bread, garlic and almonds in a blender, add a little of the cooking liquid and blitz to a paste Mash the egg yolks with a fork and combine with the blitzed mixture, and slowly fold into the cooking chicken – do not allow to boil or the sauce will separate.

•

When thoroughly combined remove to a warmed serving dish, spoon over the sauce leaving time to top up the sangria.

•

Serve with a smart flick of your bullfighting Capa, the gold and magenta reversible one.

73

Offal Dish

Rinones Al Jerez

Kidneys In Sherry Saucev

As mentioned beef in Spain is relatively scarce, and it’s not because they keep killing all the bulls at five o’clock on a Sunday in the bullrings, there is little cattle production of note other than in the north as the rest of the country is too hot for grazing grass to be produced. Thus the offal is largely pigs or lambs; this recipe works with both but has a more subtle flavour when lamb’s kidneys are used.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons of Spanish olive oil 8 lamb’s kidneys 1 small onion 2 garlic cloves, crushed A tablespoon of plain flour Half a cup of chicken stock A large schooner glass of Oloroso sherry

Then you: •

•

• •

“Core” the kidneys - to do this cut the kidney in half length ways and you will see a grey gristle piece around the centre of each half, this is the hard “core” and is isolated by cutting smallish pieces of the dark red kidney meat from around the core until that is all you are left with, then discard the core. Rinse, pat dry and reserve all the cut fleshy bits. Heat one tablespoon full the oil in a small frying pan to a moderate heat and gently fry the kidney pieces until coloured grayish brown and they are tender. Do not over cook or the kidneys will harden, and then remove with a slotted spoon to a warmed plate. Add the garlic and diced onion into the pan and cook until the onion is soft, remove and reserve with the kidney. In the small sauce pan heat the rest of the olive oil, then remove from the heat and sieve in the plain flour and stir until a smooth paste has been formed.

•

Then slowly add the stock stirring all the time and when all has been absorbed and is both smooth and thick add in the reserved garlic and onions, and reduce to a low heat still stirring.

•

Re heat the frying pan and add the sherry, bring to a quick boil and add the kidneys, then the onion sauce, bringing back to the boil before simmering for about two minutes.

•

Plate up over saffron rice.

•

Take to the table with a carnation behind both ears and one in between your teeth.

Spain

Assemble:

A small frying pan A small saucepan A fine sieve A wooden spoon A slotted spoon

74

Vegetarian Dish

Pisto Manchengo

Mixed Vegetable Stew (Doesn’t Sound So Naughty Does It)

This is a Basque country dish and varies slightly on which side of the Pyrenees you happen to be hungry. It’s quite often cooked with the addition of ham and served as a main course; however it’s equally delicious as is.:

Assemble:

A shallow saucepan A blender

Ingredients:

Spain

2 tablespoons of Spanish olive oil A large onion peeled and chopped 2 courgettes sliced diagonally A large green pepper deseeded and chopped A large red pepper deseeded and chopped 1 pound of large tomatoes blanched, skinned and deseeded A tablespoon full of paprika 2 fresh eggs Salt and a peppermill

Then you: • •

Heat the oil in the saucepan over a medium heat and fry the onions, mixed peppers and courgettes until they are soft. Puree the tomato pulp in the blender and then introduce to the pan with the now soft vegetables.

•

Bring the mixture to the boil and then simmer for about half an hour, until all is tender.

•

Beat the eggs with the paprika and seasoning and stir into the vegetable mixture and cook until the eggs are scrambled stirring all the while.

•

Serve on warm plates complete with a beach towel with a bottle of Ambre Solaire and a rather risqué paperback.

Breakfast on the hoof

75

Pudding

Torrijas

Bread, Milk And Honey, (Sounds A Bit Old Testament)

Normally you are presented with an orange for your “postre” however this is one for the little sweetmeat in your life that deserves a little sweetmeat, and just like everything it’s made a little bit special ‘cos its got a kick.

Ingredients:

2 slices of freshly sliced bread – not two slices of white bread! Crusts cut off and sliced lengthways into 6 strips A quarter of a cup of fresh cream milk 1 egg lightly beaten 1 tablespoon of unsalted butter A tablespoon of clear runny flower honey A small slug of amontillado sherry Icing sugar for dusting A small pinch of ground cinnamon

Then you: •

Arrange the strips of bread in the shallow dish and pour over the milk, and soak for five minutes, then remove, with the slotted spoon, to a piece of kitchen towel to drain

•

Beat the egg and pour over the bread, turn to ensure each surface is coated.

•

Melt the butter in the ovenproof casserole and cook the slices of bread over a medium height turning until both sides are lightly browned.

•

•

Whisk the honey and sherry together in a small bowl and when fully combined pour over the casserole and bake in a medium oven until the bread is a golden brown Remove from the oven with the slotted spoon and finely sieve the caster sugar over the bread and then dust with the pinch of cinnamon, serve hot at once or leave and serve cold, either way add a spoon full of cream and enter with a bottle of “Fundador” under each arm and a “poron” of the local red oblivia.

Spain

Assemble:

A shallow dish A slotted spoon An oven proof casserole A fine sieve A fish slice (to remove the bread from the dish – that’s why!)

76

A little loanta on the beach in

Greece Your Menu

To Start: Ancient Bean soup Or Taramasalata Seafood: Psari Plaki – baked Mackerel Or Baked Shrimps with spring Onions Main Course: Choose from Stifado – Beef and onion stew. Moussaka of lamb Pork with prunes and chestnuts Stuffed chicken with pine nuts and raisins Woodcocks in lemon sauce Dolmades – stuffed vine leaves ( Veggie) Pudding: Lokomades - Honey puffs

77

78

With their climate and natural food resources broadly similar the Greek and Turkish cuisines have developed along the same lines, however don’t tell a Greek or a Turk this unless it’s by telephone – for both are a trifle volatile when comparisons are made! Sure there are some stunning Greek dishes which have stamped their authority in International cooking and the menu I have proposed I hope reflects this. With over 6,000 islands of which only 227 are inhabited (78 have less than 100 inhabitants) it’s not difficult to see why seafood has played a major part in their culinary development. History and a benign deity also helps for the ancient Greeks had a God of almost everything thus Hestia was the Goddess of the Hearth and bread and Dionysus the God of viticulture and wine, although what he must have been thinking about when he invented Retsina is anybodies guess. They will both be taking all the credit up on Mount Olympus whilst Zeus cracks into the Ouzo. The ebullient Greeks are a charming race whose propensity for crockery destruction and dancing with anything that can be moved during a meal renders them enchanting and generous, just the same as their food and flavours. Things to bulk up the store cupboard are Greek honey and natural yoghurt and make sure you have plenty of cinnamon.

79

Recipes Soup : Ancient Bean Soup Starter : Taramasalata Fish : Psari Plaki - baked mackerel Shellfish : Baked shrimps with spring onions Beef / Veal : Stifado - beef and onion stew Lamb / Mutton : Moussaka of Lamb Pork: Pork with prunes and chestnuts Game : Woodcocks in lemon sauce Chicken : Stuffed chicken with pine nuts and raisins Veggie : Dolmades - stuffed vine leaves Pudding : Lokomades - honey puffs

80

Soup

Ancient Bean Soup

In the North of the country the wilds of Macedonia can get a touch chilly in the evenings and coming in from a hard day at the hills herding goats or sheep a hearty broth was needed to restore a man to comfort. Beans where grown for winter fodder for their flocks, hence their appearance in many of the recipes from this area, but remember that these dried beans need overnight soaking so don’t plan on doing this in under a day !

Assemble:

A large earthenware bowl A large saucepan and lid A small frying pan A garlic press

Greece

Ingredients:

2 cups of dried white beans ½ a pound of beef dripping 3 medium onions finely chopped. ½ a pint of beef stock, or a stock cube dissolved in boiling water 2 large cloves of garlic 2 tablespoons of a good olive oil 1 tablespoonful of Greek honey 1 teaspoon of chopped coriander 1 small bunch of parsley 2 bay leaves Salt and black pepper ½ a pint of water

Then you: •

Place the dried beans in the earthenware bowl and cover with warm water to which a little salt has been added. Cover and leave to soak overnight.

•

Place the soaked beans with their water in a large pan and bring to the boil and simmer for one hour.

•

Add the beef stock and bay leaves bring, to the boil again and simmer for a further half hour.

•

In the small frying pan melt the beef dripping and when hot add the finely chopped onions, the chopped coriander and bunch of parsley, season with salt and pepper. When the onions have softened and turned golden add to the bean broth.

•

Add the honey and boil slowly and then pass the garlic cloves through a garlic crusher and mix with a little olive oil before adding to the broth.

•

Take to the table with your goatskin waistcoat tightly fastened.

81

Starter

Taramasalata

Smoked Cod’s Roe Pate

One of the defining dishes in Greek cuisine is the pinkie pate of smoked roe called taramasalata, beware it’s addictive – put any size bowl of this on a table and it will disappear as if by magic. Smoked cod’s roe should be available from any decent fishmonger, and even some indecent ones.

A fine sieve A small bowl A small saucer A whisk or a food processor

Ingredients:

2 ounces of smoked roe 2 tablespoons of Greek olive oil An ounce of mashed potato ½ a tablespoon of fresh lemon juice Ground black pepper 1 teaspoon of grated onion 1 teaspoon of chopped parsley mixed with snipped chives

Then you: •

Place the smoked cod’s roe, having removed the outer skin, in a small bowl, and add one tablespoon full of the olive oil and leave to soften.

•

Now sieve the roe into a small bowl and then sieve in the mashed potato and mix with the whisk.

•

Now add the remaining olive oil a small amount at a time and beat into the mixture, when at the consistency of thick cream stir in the parsley and chive mixture, the lemon juice and finally the black pepper.

•

Plate into small separate ramekins, garnish with chopped black olives then serve in your full length white orator’s toga and open toed surgical boots.

Greece

Assemble:

82

Fish

Psari Plaki

Baked Mackerel (Hake Or Red Mullet)

As already mentioned Greece has 6,000 islands so that is one hell of a lot of rocks to fish from. A huge variety of marine life is evidenced in their menus and basically if it swims or crawls in the sea it’s there to be eaten, thus sayeth the Greeks. Red mullet and Hake are often used in this recipe but I prefer to use the gleaming horse mackerel, the ones with the sparkling eyes.

Assemble:

A shallow oven proof dish A small heat proof bowl A medium sized frying pan A pepper mill A garlic crusher

Greece

Ingredients:

2 medium sized mackerel make sure their eyes are sparkling if not they are not fresh 1 tablespoon of coarse sea salt 1 large onion peeled and finely chopped 4 large vine tomatoes blanched, peeled, deseeded and cut into small pieces 1 clove of garlic 1 tablespoon of olive oil 1 fresh lemon 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley.

Then you: •

Remove the head, tail, guts and fins from the fish if the fishmonger has not already done this for you. Using a sharp knife just cut along the fish’s backbone from its belly side and scrape to remove the dark blood, then rub with sea salt and rinse under cold water.

•

Grease the shallow oven proof dish with butter paper, pat dry the prepared fish and place in the dish.

•

Pre heat the oven to 180.

•

Heat a tablespoon full of olive oil in the frying pan and add the finely chopped onions and fry until they soften and turn golden. Now add the pulped tomato and crush in the clove of garlic, season with salt and black pepper, add the juice of half the lemon and cook for two minutes stirring often.

•

Pour the onion and tomato mixture over the mackerel cover with a butter paper and bake in the centre of the oven for 25 minutes, after which time remove the butter paper and cook for a further five minutes

•

Remove from the oven sprinkle with chopped parsley and garnish with the remaining half of the lemon sliced. Don your white john l’s and white mini blouson skirt and march to the table.

83

Shellfish

Baked Shrimps With Garlic And Spring Onions This is a splendid sight when served – the pink shrimps and deep green sauce is an invitation to a feast.

Then you: •

Put the oil, peeled and chopped garlic, parsley and chopped spring onions in the food processor and blitz, when smooth add the white wine and give it a further ten seconds whiz.

•

Place the peeled shrimps on to the greased baking pan, season with salt and pepper and then pour over the oil and garlic, spring onion mixture, retaining about a tablespoon full.

•

Place in the middle of a pre heated oven at 220 and bake for about twenty minutes or until the shrimps take on a golden colour.

Ingredients:

A pound of fresh peeled shrimps, heads removed 2 spring onions washed and coarsely chopped 2 large cloves of garlic 2 tablespoons of Greek olive oil 2 tablespoons of freshly chopped parsley A wine glass of dry white wine Salt and pepper

•

Remove from the oven and pour over the retained sauce, grab your Olympic torch and sprint the remaining 100 metres to the table wearing your numbered running vest.

"a plucking Greek"

Greece

Assemble:

A food processor A medium sized baking dish A wooden spoon

84

Beef/ Veal

Stifado

Beef And Onion Stew

The principal meats in Greece are lamb and goat so beef is a bit special and is often served to important visitors. The distinctive flavour is occasioned by the cinnamon, a popular ingredient in Greek cooking. The smell of this stew as it wafts down the mountain side begs you to follow it, drooling as you go, but make sure you have got your invitation to hand if requested by a huge man with a beard and a deep voice you can hear two miles away.

Assemble:

A large saucepan and lid A wooden spoon

Ingredients:

Greece

½ a pound of stewing steak, trimmed of fat 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely sliced ½ a teaspoon of salt ½ a pound of silver skin onions or peeled shallots 1 tablespoon of olive oil 2 tablespoons of tomato puree 1 glass of dry red wine 2 bay leaves ½ a teaspoon of powdered cinnamon

Then you: •

Cut the steak into about one inch squares and lightly season.

•

Heat the oil in the large saucepan and when hot introduce the meat and fry until the meat has coloured all over, stirring often.

•

Add the peeled onions or shallots. If you have chosen to use bottled silverskin onions make sure you have rinsed them thoroughly to remove the vinegar. Stir for two minutes to colour the onions then add the sliced garlic, tomato puree, red wine, bay leaves and then sprinkle in evenly the cinnamon powder. Bring to the boil , reduce the heat to a simmer then cover with the lid and leave to simmer for three hours or until the meat is tender

•

Remove from the oven when the meat is tender and you can no longer resist the wondrous cooking smells, remove the bay leaves and turn into a warmed serving dish. Prepare any old crockery you can find for throwing onto the floor and then serve in your oldest dish.

85

Lamb / Mutton

Moussaka

Lamb And Aubergine Casserole

Moussaka is surely the food of the Gods and must be the daily diet of all the deities on Mount Olympus. This classic has found its way onto many European menus and has been for many their first introduction to the unique flavour of Aubergine, having regarded it as purely decorative.

Then you: •

Trim the meat of all excess fat and then cut into half inch squares, then season with a little salt and a twist of black pepper.

•

Heat about an ounce of butter in the frying pan and when foaming add the sliced onions, and fry until they are soft then add the meat and fry until it changes colour, on all sides, stirring often. Remove from the pan to the oven proof dish whose interior has been greased with butter paper. Sprinkle over with the chopped parsley and reserve to a warm oven.

Ingredients:

The blade of a shoulder of a small lamb, boned. 2 large onions peeled and sliced 1 medium sized aubergine ½ a pound of vine tomatoes blanched, peeled and deseeded 2 ounces of butter Salt and pepper 1 level tablespoon of chopped parsley 1 tablespoon of olive oil

For the Sauce:

1½ ounces of margarine 1½ ounces of plain flour ¾ of a pint of milk 1½ ounces of hard cheese grated 1 egg beaten

•

•

Heat the remaining butter in the frying pan and when foaming add aubergine slices ensuring they all fit onto the base of the pan. Fry on both sides until they are evenly brown, then place on top of the lamb and onion mixture in the oven proof dish, reserve back to the warm oven. Now to make the topping sauce: Melt the margarine in the small saucepan, sieve in the plain flour and cook for two minutes stirring out any lumps, now stir in the milk, bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for two minutes over a medium heat stirring often. Remove from the heat and stir in the grated cheese and beaten egg. Season and then pour over the meat and aubergine mixture, cover with a lid and cook in the centre of the oven at 180 for an hour Remove the lid and cook on for a further half hour or until the sauce topping browns, then take to the table reciting the Iliad in classical Greek.

Greece

Assemble:

A medium sized oven proof dish with lid A medium sized heavy based frying pan A small saucepan A cup in which to beat an egg

86

Pork

Pork With Chestnuts And Prunes Here the Greeks do differ from the Turks for the Greek Orthodox Church permits the consumption of all things porcine, and thus many rural homesteads are home to an army of screaming piglets. Wild pigs are plentiful in the North of the country and are hunted with great relish and eaten with the same. This recipe brings a wonderful rustic texture and flavour to your Greek table and must be made only after the prunes and chestnuts have marinated overnight.

Assemble:

A medium sized bowl. A large heavy based saucepan and lid. A darning needle

Greece

Ingredients:

1 pound of pork loin, diced into one inch cubes 10 stoned prunes 10 whole chestnuts 1 glass of Greek sweet wine – Patras produces lots of this 1 glass of dry red wine 1 cup of strong tea, deep flavoured Indian is best 1 tablespoon of Greek olive oil A small knob of butter A sprig of Oregano A bay leaf Salt and ground black pepper

Then you: •

Put the prunes and shelled chestnuts into the bowl having pricked them all over with a darning needle, then pour over the sweet red wine to cover. Leave in a cool place overnight.

•

Heat the oil in the saucepan and when hot add the knob of butter, introduce the diced pork and gently sauté until brown of all sides, stirring often

•

Add the glass of dry red wine and a further glass of water to cover the meat, put on the pan lid and allow to simmer for two hours or until the meat is tender to a fork.

•

Take the prune and chestnut marinade to the pan and empty in the contents, bring the saucepan mixture to the boil , then turn to a simmer and with the lid off all to reduce until the pork has absorbed most of the juice. Serve with white rice on warmed plates doing your John Travolta Saturday night fever number and when asked tell your little Olivia Newton – John that it’s a Grease night, then duck.

Bloody Hedgehogs

Game

Bekatses Lemonates

87

Woodcock In Lemon Sauce

The rural Greeks are handy with the odd fowling piece and trawl the woods for flying game, should you come across one on such a mission by accident try not to be overawed by the sight of a heavily moustached, swarthy mountain man doing an impression of a Cecil B. DeMille resistance fighter, he is more likely to kill you with kindness than anything else. Eating small birds is not everyone’s idea of a gastro treat, but if you can come by some little woodcock this is a delicious way to serve them.

Ingredients:

4 woodcock, plucked, cleaned and singed 4 tablespoons of Greek olive oil 1 large knob of butter The juice of a freshly squeezed lemon The grateg rind of the lemon 1 glass of dry white wine 2 carrots scrubbed and chopped as thin rounds 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley. A sprig of thyme for each bird

Then you: •

Heat two tablespoons full of the olive oil in the frying pan and then add a small knob of butter, when mixed add the rinsed and dried woodcock one at a time into the pan and sauté over a medium heat until golden brown skin is achieved.

•

Place the large casserole pan on the heat and cover the bottom layer with the sliced carrots, then pour over the pan juices from the frying pan to cover the carrots. Now place a sprig of thyme inside each woodcock and place the birds on top of the carrots. Now pour in the lemon juice and wine and just cover with warm water and put on the pan lid.

•

Bake in a moderate oven for half and hour basting with the lemon sauce and then remove the lid and bake for a further five minutes. Remove to a serving dish and garnish with parsley and grated lemon rind and pour over the reduced sauce.

•

Now for the drama, take to the table limping saying its only your Achilles’ heel playing up.

Greece

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A medium sized metal casserole dish

88

Chicken

Kotopoulo Yemisto Stuffed Chicken

It’s the stuffing that makes this little roast chicken so totally different. This dish is often cooked and taken outside in the evenings and eaten cold with hard boiled eggs and beetroot, and just to support the local industries a bottle or three of Retsina – might be worth a try for your next picnic.

Assemble:

A mixing bowl A small sauce pan A baking tray and trivet Kitchen needle and string.

Greece

Ingredients:

1 small one pound chicken, get one with the giblets in as you need the liver for stuffing 1 medium onion peeled and finely sliced ½ a cup of wild white rice 2 tablespoons of pine nuts 2 tablespoons of golden raisins 1 teaspoon of fresh sage chopped Butter for basting Salt and ground black pepper

Then you: •

Take the giblets out of the bird; if you have bought one from a butcher make sure he gives you the giblets. Rinse the void with cold salted water.

•

Mix the chopped sage with a tablespoon full of softened butter until it is evenly combined and add a little black pepper.

•

With a knife prize the chicken skin gently up from the chicken breast from the rear of the bird to the wishbone. With a teaspoon introduce the butter sage mixture carefully under the skin taking care not to tear. Flatten out the mixture as evenly as possible over the breast by pressing the skin, when satisfied its as good as it gets, leave the bird to rest in a cool place.

•

Now to prepare the stuffing: Cut the chicken livers into a small dice, discarding any hard tissues. Heat the small saucepan and add butter and when foaming add the onions and sauté until golden then add the diced livers and cook until they are uniformly brown. Now add the rice, pine nuts, raisins and season with salt and pepper. Add a cup full of water, bring to the boil for five minutes then remove from the heat and allow to cool.

•

Stuff the chicken void with the cool stuffing as tightly as possible and then using the kitchen needle and string close the void.

•

Place on a trivet over a baking tray and cover the breast with butter paper, bake in a moderate oven for two hours basting regularly.

•

When the chicken is cooked remove the butter paper and return to the oven to brown the skin of the bird. end Serve with Zeus lightening bolts coming out of each ear

89

Veggie

Dolmades

Rice And Pine Nut Stuffed Vine Leaves

There are quite a few days in the Greek Orthodox calendar when the eating of meat is prohibited to the faithful, and as such they have developed n interesting dish that can be served on all days, with the subtraction of minced meat being substituted by pine nuts – this dish is Dolmades and here is the vegetarian, holy day version.

Ingredients:

4 vine leaves, from any good delicatessen 1 medium sized onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 ounces of short grain “risotto” rice 1 tablespoon of pine nuts 2 vine tomatoes blanched peeled and deseeded 2 tablespoon of chopped parsley 1 tablespoon of fresh lemon juice ½ a teaspoon of ground black pepper 1 tablespoon of tomato puree ½ pint of vegetable stock or stock cube dissolved 2 tablespoon of olive oil Salt and pepper

Then you: •

Wash and pat dry the vine leaves and leave flat on a wooden board.

•

In the frying pan heat the olive oil and then add the onions and sauté until they are soft now add the rice and cook for ten minutes.

•

Add the pulped tomatoes, pine nuts, chopped parsley and tomato puree and stir vigorously. Add the stock, reserving two tablespoons full, and lemon juice, season and gently cook on top of the heat without a lid until all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is still firm “ al dente”.

•

Pre heat the oven to 180.

•

Spoon a mound of the cooked mixture into just off the centre of a vine leaf, and then roll the leaf (like a cigar), and tuck the end in to close the tube, and parcel up with cooking string, tied tightly. Then place the parcels in a shallow baking dish add the reserved stock to cover and bake in the oven for one hour.

•

Take to the table having run 26 miles and 365 yards bearing the news of victory – try to keep awake till after the pudding.

Greece

Assemble:

A small saucepan A medium sized frying pan A shallow oven proof dish with lid Cooking string

90

Pudding

Semolina Honey Helva

Many Greeks love to seal the end of a meal with taking of a little sweet cake or even two, and to this end many households have developed their own secret sweetmeat, whose recipe is only divulged on their deathbed. So just admire the simplicity or complexity of what ever you are offered but never ever ask for the secret. The following recipe is a basis that is delicious in this simple form but you may stamp your family seal on it with any additional ingredients you think fit – but in the spirit of things make it a rule never to tell anyone!.

Assemble:

A large saucepan A wooden spoon A medium sized saucepan A baking tray

Then you:

Greece

•

Pour the semolina and pine nuts into the large saucepan and cook over a low heat stirring with a wooden spoon, when lightly coloured golden after about half an hour, remove from the heat and allow to rest.

•

Put the milk, sugar, butter and honey in the small saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium heat, stirring constantly – you must not allow this mixture to “catch” that is burn as the flavour will be tainted, it you do I am afraid you will have to start again.

•

Pour the boiling milk mixture over the semolina and stir in gently, cook slowly until all the milk has been absorbed, then remove from the heat and turn out into the shallow tray, cover with a cloth and allow to cool. With a palette knife divide into “bite” sized squares and serve warm or cold, resting on the nearest Doric column.

Ingredients:

2½ cups of semolina 5 cups of milk 1 tablespoon of pine nuts 8 ounces of butter 2 cups of Demerara caster sugar 1 tablespoon of honey

91

92

The Highway 66 Diner in

NorthYourAmerica Menu To Start: New England Clam Chowder or Caesar salad

Seafood: Grilled scrod with orange sauce or Lobster Thermidor Main Courses: Choose From Texas red chilli beef Braised Lamb Jenny with shallots and potatoes Baby back ribs of pork in maple syrup Chicken Maryland, bananas and pineapple fritters Burgoo -Trappers rabbit stew Chicken livers with cream and hard boiled eggs Baked beans Pudding: Knickerbocker Glory

93

94

It appears that every nation on the planet earth has a community of its people resident in The United States, so much so the one wonders why it is not called The United Peoples in America that is until you go to an American football game. Ancient customs and foods are helping to preserve the original way of life and culture of migrants whose forbearers have travelled and settled in The Land of The Free. All this is often proudly evidenced when on meeting an “American” they will introduce and recite their lineage in terms of nationality – e.g. I’m quarter Cherokee, quarter Finnish and half Ukrainian on my mother’s side and half Syrian and half Ugandan on my father’s side - this enchanting trait begs the question “ then what do you eat?” and the answer is - just about everything ! For North America has just about every ethnic cuisine covered by its restaurant industry, just drive down some downtown highway to see the vast array, making it one of the most interesting places in the world to eat. Selecting recipes for a night in pretending to eat out in North America was daunting, and could never be definitive – still with so much to chose from here goes!

95

Recipes Soup : New England Clam chowder Starter : Caesar salad Fish : Grilled Scrod with orange sauce Shellfish : Lobster Thermidor Beef / Veal : Texas red - Chilli beef Lamb / Mutton : Braised lamb jenny with shallots and potatoes. Pork: Baby back ribs of Pork in maple syrup Game : Burgoo Trappers rabbit stew Chicken : Chicken Maryland, bananas and corn fritters. Offal : Chicken livers with cream and hard boiled eggs Vegie : Original Baked Beans Pudding : Knickerbocker Glory

96

Soup

New England Clam Chowder

This dish is on a par with “can she bake a scone” in England , the feared question of a prospective bride – “Can she make a clam chowder?” strikes the same fear in New England, it may be worth asking of your son’s latest squeeze if she hails from around Boston way.

Assemble:

A small saucepan and lid A sieve An oven proof casserole dish

North America

Ingredients:

About a pound of freshly dredged clams 4 slices of smoked streaky bacon 2 medium potatoes peeled and diced 1 medium onion 2 cups of cream milk 2 tablespoons of double cream 2 teaspoons of plain flour 2 tablespoons of corn kernels A pinch of fresh thyme A pinch of ground black pepper A pinch of nutmeg A tablespoon of vegetable oil

Then you: •

Rinse the clams under cold running water to remove all grit from the exterior of the shells, and place in the saucepan with about two cups of water, put on the lid and heat quickly for two minutes shaking the pan to rattle the clams.

•

When quite hot remove the pan from the stove and inspect the clams, discard any that have not opened. Strain the clams reserving the liquor and separate the meat into a holding dish and discard the empty shells.

•

In the casserole dish heat the oil until moving, add the bacon and fry over a high heat until firm and crispy then add and the onions and cook until the are transparent not brown, then sprinkle on the flour and mix in with a wooded spoon.

•

Now add the rest of the ingredients including the reserved clams and their cooking liquor - mix thoroughly, and cook over a moderate heat for thirty minutes. The liquid must not boil or the clams will become chewy, so take care.

•

When the desired consistency has been reached decant into two soup bowls sprinkle over a touch of finely chopped parsley and take to the table, doing the Boston Two Step.

97

Starter

Caesar’s Salad The North American diner has developed a most curious habit of eating their salad as a

separate item which can really confuse their average waiter when you sit and politely wait for the main course to be served, while he wanders around muttering something about “crazy limies – starving themselves to death”. Perhaps as an antidote to this malaise Mr Caesar Cardini designed this salad at the beginning of the twentieth centuary, and now over one hundred years later it has found its way onto most of the menus in the world’s best eateries.

Then you: •

Wash the lettuce in very cold water and strain thoroughly, then cut into strips about one inch from the root and place in an ornate salad bowl.

•

Rub the bread with a crushed garlic clove then dice into equal symmetrical squares.

•

A fresh cold Kos lettuce 2 thick slices of day old white bread crusts removed 6 strips of smoked streaky bacon Fresh parmesan cheese for grating 10 tinned anchovies in oil

Heat the oil in your deep fat fryer until it is almost smoking. Drop one piece of bread into the oil and if it turns a golden brown in under one minute, remove and put in the rest of the bread to cook till golden brown. Remove to kitchen paper towel to drain.

•

Now put the bacon strips in to fry and when crisp all over, remove and again dry on kitchen paper towel.

•

For the dressing:

•

Add the drained and dried fried bread croutons with the bacon to the cut lettuce in the salad bowl and mix together.

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons of mayonnaise 4 anchovy fillets cut into small dice A small clove of garlic crushed 1 small glass of red wine 1 teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard

In a small bowl crush the diced anchovies until smooth then add the rest of the dressing’s ingredients and beat with a whisk until smooth.

•

Pour the dressing onto the salad just before serving and grate over a dusting of freshly grated parmesan cheese and decorate with the remaining anchovy fillets.

•

Serve wearing “Uncle Sam” top hat and waistcoat and long white beard.

North America

Assemble:

A salad bowl A deep frying pan A garlic crusher Some kitchen paper towel

98

Fish Dish

Grilled Scrod In Orange Sauce

With such a huge seaboard both Atlantic, Caribbean and Pacific and the vast lakes and rivers its not surprising that fish have played a major part in the development of American cuisine, what is a little surprising what is cooked or served with the fish. This method of cooking cod is said to be a relic from the days when the Portuguese first established a fishing industry in the United States – see if you can spot what is unusual.

Assemble:

North America

A grill pan A small saucepan A wooden spoon A fish slice

Ingredients:

2 medium sized fillets of codling, called Scrod on Rhode Island 1 tablespoon of butter 2 teaspoons of vegetable oil Some finely chopped fresh parsley The juice of three freshly squeezed oranges (no pips) A wine glass of vodka (for the sauce – not you !) 2 teaspoons of corn flour

Then you: •

Mix the butter and oil together to form a soft paste then add the parsley and combine thoroughly.

•

Spread the butter mixture over the fish evenly and place on the grill pan.

•

Pre heat the grill to about 200.

•

Put the orange juice and vodka in a small saucepan and over a moderate heat reduce to about on third (try not to cry) then take off the heat and allow to cool.

•

Mix a little cold water with the corn flour in an egg cup and then when mixed stir into the orange sauce stirring until the sauce thickens. Place a damp cloth over the sauce to stop it crusting and keep warm on the top of the stove.

•

Place the fish under the grill and cook with flesh side up for four minutes then turn over with a fish slice and cook the skin side for five minutes or a shade longer if you want the skin to crisp.

•

Turn out onto warmed plates with the flesh side upwards and pour over the warm sauce.

•

Serve at once using your baseball pitchers gloved hand with cap turned round back to front wearing your white plus fours.

99

Shellfish Dish

Lobster Thermidor

True to form the “American way” in its culinary form seems to involve combining on the same plate for consumption at the same time two entirely disparate ingredients which can frighten those unfamiliar with “Surf and Turf” or maple syrup and bacon. Like eating any native dish - don’t knock it till you’ve tried it, a bit like getting kangaroo’s knackers in “I’m a celebrity get me out of here.” Anyway I have resisted this admirable excursion into gastronomic modernity in favour of a time honoured classic Lobster Thermidor just by its self, first cooked by a Frenchman in America.

Ingredients:

A decent sized cooked lobster ½ a cup of dry white wine A teaspoon of dried chervil A teaspoon of chopped tarragon 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter A tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil A cup of double cream ½ a cup of single cream A teaspoon of French mustard Fresh parmesan cheese for grating

Then you: •

•

Remove the lobster claws and gently crack the shell, then carefully remove the meat intact and reserve. Split the lobster in two by placing it back upwards on the board and follow the line to the tail with your cleaver give it a thump to split the lobster into two equal halves. Remove the meat and reserve then hollow out the head portion and discard the contents. Put the wine, herbs and shallots into the small saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for ten minutes until the liquid has reduced by about a quarter then remove from the heat and set aside.

•

Clean any trace of the black thread from the lobster tail and the cut into bite sized pieces, following the tail hinge contours then add to the reserved claw meat.

•

Place the heavy based frying pan on the stove and gently heat the butter, when melted turn up the heat and add the olive oil, stirring to combine. Add the lobster pieces tail pieces and whole claw meat, and fry for four minutes turning twice, then remove from the pan and hold in a warmed dish.

•

Strain the wine mixture into the pan and add the creams and mustard, season to taste then simmer this mixture for about four minutes or until the sauce begins to thicken and is smooth. Remove from the heat and add the reserved lobster meat and stir to ensure all is coated.

•

Clean the reserved half lobster shell under running water and dry with kitchen towel, and then carefully spoon the lobster mixture, into the entire shell with the claw meat at the head.

•

Grate fresh parmesan cheese over the top of the mixture and grill for five minutes at medium heat until cheese turns golden and is bubbling, arrange on plate, turn on phonograph with “The Stars and Stripes” and proceed to the table and await pop star adulation.

North America

Assemble:

A bread board A meat cleaver A small hammer A heavy based frying pan A small saucepan

100

Beef / Veal Dish

Texas Red Chilli Con Carne With Red Beans And Peppers

The image of John Wayne driving what appears to be endless thousands of longhorn steers over vast swathes of Texas is imprinted on anyone’s mind who as a child used to go to the Saturday morning “pictures” matinee. Without doubt the rearing of quality beef has been perfected for the American palate, not too fat with distinct marbling which gives pure pleasure to any carnivore. On their cattle drives, after a hard day slaughtering a tribe of Indians, defeating the cattle rustlers and out drawing the local bad lads our hero would sit contentedly round his camp fire eating the following before getting out his guitar and wooing that little blond homesteader in the gingham frock.

Assemble:

North America

A heavy based frying pan A medium saucepan

Ingredients:

A pound of lean beef very coarsely cubed A large piece of beef dripping for frying 3 dried red chilli peppers A teaspoon of dried oregano A teaspoon of ground cumin seeds 2 teaspoons of dried cayenne pepper 2 cloves of garlic peeled and crushed A cup of Maize flour 2 cups of beef stock or one beef stock cube dissolved A tin of red kidney beans One red pepper deseeded and sliced One green pepper deseeded A tablespoon of tomato puree One medium onion peeled and chopped Salt and coarsely ground black pepper

Then you: •

Melt the beef dripping in the heavy based frying pan over a medium heat and when hot add the roughly cubed beef and cook until brown all over, turning with a wooden spoon.

•

When all the meat is brown add the chilli, pepper and herbs and mix well, then add the stock and cover with the lid and allow to simmer for a couple of hours stirring every now and then to prevent the meat sticking to the pan.

•

When the meat is tender mix the maize flour with some cold water to make a soft paste and add it to the cooked beef stirring slowly, when thoroughly mixed simmer again to thicken for a further twenty minutes.

•

So that’s the basic Texas red made and time to make the peppered beans.

•

Heat a saucepan with some more beef dripping and when hot add the onion and cook until it turns translucent.

•

•

Now add the sliced red and green peppers and the tomato puree, stir well, season and put on the lid and sweat for an hour, after which add the kidney beans and cook for a further half hour. When cooked put the beef into one Billy can, the peppered beans into another and lastly some cooked white rice into another - light the camp fire in the dinning room and serve wearing a W. Earp black frock coat with matching accessories.

101

Lamb / Mutton Dish

Braised Lamb Jenny (Shank)

There are almost enough lambs and sheep in the United kingdom for everyone to have one each – not so in The United States where cattle take the dominant position in the meat stakes ( Ha, Ha ). Maybe it is something about eating a little bouncing, full of joy bundle of wool that prevents so many Americans from enjoying the delights of this succulent meat, or maybe the lack of shallow grazing. One breed that does get a lot of attention is the Dorset, which can lamb twice a year and whose meat is a real treat. Try this easy Kentucky braise with a lamb jenny – that’s the part of the front leg below the knee.

Then you: •

Melt the butter and oil together in a large heavy based frying pan and when hot sear off the lamb, turning often to ensure all the meat is browned. Remove and reserve to the deep casserole dish.

•

Now add the chopped onions to the pan and cook until they just start to turn golden, then sprinkle on the castor sugar and cook for a further three minutes, turning often, then remove to the casserole dish and pour onto the lamb.

•

Add a touch more oil to the pan and then fry the garlic and shallots together for five minutes and then remove to a separate warmed dish.

•

Deglaze the frying pan by adding the cooking brandy and after two minutes add the meat stock. Bring the liquid to the boil and then pour over the lamb in the casserole dish.

•

Add salt and ground pepper to taste, add the bay leaves and thyme to the casserole dish then cover with a tight lid and place in your oven at 160 and cook for two hours.

•

Remove the lid and check seasoning and adjust if necessary, then add the cooked garlic and shallots, the carrots and potatoes and return to the oven for a further two hours, check every so often to adjust the stock if the braise seems dry, adding a little more stock if required.

•

Take from the oven, sprinkle the braise with freshly chopped parsley.

•

Take to the table with a six gun strapped to your thigh, poncho over one shoulder and chewing a cheroot.

Ingredients:

1 large or 2 small lamb shanks, your butcher should oblige 1 large onion peeled and chopped A whole head of garlic peeled and separated 10 shallots, peeled A pint of meat stock or a stock cube dissolved 2 large carrots scraped and cut in the round 1 pound of small potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 fresh bay leaves A sprig of garden thyme A teaspoon of castor sugar 3 tablespoons of cooking brandy A tablespoon of vegetable oil and butter mixed

North America

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A deep oven proof casserole dish with lid A wooden spoon

102

Pork Dish

Baby Back Ribs Of Pork With Maple Syrup

It may be a throw back to the great trek West that one of the favourite American ways of eating out is in their own, or someone else’s, backyard - the all time great American Barbecue. We, over the pond, have somehow managed to turn this into a ritual food cremation and make it an excuse to consume large amounts of charcoal, both for burning and then eating! The universal hamburger makes a guest appearance at almost all of these functions but still one of the all time great winners is Baby back ribs of pork, try it indoors first with sticky fingers and a wide grin.

Assemble:

North America

A grill pan, with grill rack A large mixing bowl A wooden spoon A pair of tongs A garlic crusher A pastry brush

Then you: •

Separate the ribs with a sharp knife, leaving equal amounts of meat if possible.

•

Combine all the other ingredients and mix together thoroughly in a mixing bowl and set aside (just like the farmers)

• •

Ingredients:

2 racks of baby back ribs – in case your butcher is unfamiliar with these they are the small ribs next to the loin of a young pig ¾ of a cup of maple syrup A large pinch of cayenne pepper 2 cloves of garlic peeled and crushed 2 tablespoons of tomato puree 1 tablespoon of French mustard 2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice

Pre heat the grill to 200, fairly hot. Arrange the ribs on the grill rack, brush over with the mustard mixture and place on top of the grill pan then under the grill for fifteen minutes, turning and brushing the new side with the mustard mixture - grill for a further fifteen minutes.

•

Remove the grill from the pan and empty the grill tray of all fat that has come from the ribs.

•

Brush the ribs with the maple syrup and replace under the grill, reduce the oven temperature to 180 and cook for five minutes then turn the ribs and baste again with the mixture repeat this for about half an hour or until the ribs are browning and shiny.

•

Fill a finger bowl with warm water and a rose petal and take to the table on a warmed dish wearing your quarterbacks uniform and full body armour including that helmet with the bull catcher front.

103

Game Dish

Burgoo

Take six squirrels – that’s a great start to a recipe, unless of course you happen to be a squirrel. The right of The North American to bear arms is enshrined into their constitution and piously defended in the land of the free by those whose joy is pointing loaded firearms at wild animals and birds as opposed to bank managers and innocent bystanders. The hunting season is a good time to keep out the woods if you’re a moose however like all other countries disciplined hunting produces not only good sport but often good food. This recipe is thought to have originated from a one pot hunter’s and trappers stew cooked over an open fire, where the ingredients where unidentifiable and thus delicious – so take six squirrels!

Then you: •

Place the rabbit on a chopping board and remove the front legs, then the back legs and then chop the remaining breast and loin into two.

•

Place the rabbit pieces, with the liver and kidneys, into the saucepan and just cover with salt water. Bring to the boil and then turn to a simmer, cover with the lid and allow to cook for two hours, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface

•

When the meat is very tender take from the heat and allow to cool. Remove all the rabbit pieces from the liquid and peel off all the tender meat into a bowl. Discard all the bones.

•

Now add all the remaining ingredients into the stock remaining in the pan - bring to the boil and then turn down to a simmer for twenty minutes.

•

Chop, or tear, the cooked rabbit flesh into bite sized pieces and then add to the simmering vegetables, and continue to simmer for a further ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and add a little more water if the stew becomes too thick for your taste.

•

Decant into a large serving bowl, sprinkle over with some freshly chopped parsley and take the rather messy looking offering to the table (it will taste delicious) and serve with thick slices of fresh bread.

•

Do not forget to whistle “Dixie” whilst tap dancing.

Ingredients:

A large doe rabbit, cleaned and skinned, keeping liver and kidney 3 medium potatoes peeled and roughly chopped 2 medium onions peeled and roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 3 carrots, scraped and cut in the round 1 cup of sweet corn kernels 4 large tomatoes, blanched, peeled and pulped A small tin of butter beans 2 red peppers, deseeded and cut into strips 1 ½ cups of chopped okra Salt and freshly ground black pepper

North America

Assemble:

A large heavy based casserole dish with lid A chopping board A meat cleaver

104

Chicken Dish

Chicken Maryland With Banana And Pineapple Rings

Here we go again, where else would you get chicken, banana and pineapple rings all together but Maryland? This delight is now served across the divide and will always be a tribute to the invention of those citizens of that fair State, just as will “Bunk” Johnson playing his little silver cornet in that epic solo in “Maryland my Maryland”. The visual appeal of the crunchy chicken breasts, fried banana and pineapple rings is hard to beat.

Assemble:

North America

A saucer Three shallow dishes A large heavy based frying pan A small saucepan A sauce boat

Ingredients:

2 skinned chicken breasts One and a half cups of milk 1 tablespoon of seasoned flour 1 fresh egg lightly beaten in a teaspoon of cold water 2 cups of fresh dry white breadcrumbs 8 tablespoons of butter 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil ½ a teaspoon of sugar 1 tablespoon of fine strong plain flour

Then you: •

Arrange your “dips” in the shallow dishes, for the frying process, as follows; Four tablespoons full of milk in the saucer, the seasoned flour in one shallow dish, the beaten egg in another and finally the breadcrumbs in another.

•

Dip the chicken in the milk to fully cover and then roll in the seasoned flour ensuring that the whole breast is floured, shake off any excess and place on paper kitchen towel to dry a little.

•

Melt six tablespoons full of butter with the oil in the frying pan at a low heat.

•

Dip the chicken breasts one at a time into the beaten egg mixture to thoroughly coat and then roll to totally cover in the breadcrumbs and then place in the frying pan and cook gently to ensure the whole of the breasts crumbs are evenly cooked and golden, about twenty minutes. Remove to drain on paper kitchen towel and then place on a warmed dish and hold in a warmed oven.

•

Now top up the butter and oil and dip the peeled bananas and pineapple rings in the egg and then roll in the breadcrumbs, and fry, turning occasionally, till golden brown then reserve with the cooked chicken.

•

Melt the remaining butter in the small saucepan, then add the sugar until the mixture starts to caramelize a little, then add the remaining flour, stirring until you have a smooth paste. Remove from the heat and slowly stir in the remaining milk. Return to the heat and cook through for two minutes stirring all the time, then pour into the warmed sauce boat.

•

Dress two warmed plates with the chicken and the banana and pineapple a light touch of sauce on the side, and serve in black fedora hat, camel hair long coat and carry a violin case in your spare hand.

105

Offal Dish

Chicken Livers With Cream And Hard Boiled Eggs

The abundance of meat makes the harvesting of its offal less of a necessity, not so with poultry where the livers of chickens are particularly prized, perhaps through some long distant central European folk memory. Or perhaps because they are just delicious however they are cooked, albeit in pate, terrine or as in this delight so popular in the North West.

Then you: •

Melt the half the butter in the frying pan and when hot add the sliced onions and cook until they turn just golden. Remove to a dish with a slotted spoon and keep warm.

•

Place the chicken’s livers on the bread board and with the sharp knife remove any attached veins. Now cut the livers into strips lengthways.

•

Ingredients:

3 cups full of fresh chicken’s livers 2 medium onions peeled and finely sliced 1 cup of single cream 2 fresh eggs, hard boiled 2 teaspoons of Paprika Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 tablespoons of butter

•

Remove the chicken’s livers, now just cooked, with a slotted spoon and reserve with the onions.

•

Carefully peel the hard boiled eggs, removing all the shell. Now cut the peeled eggs into quarters taking care to keep the yolk and white together in each quarter.

•

Melt a little more butter in the frying pan if needed then add the single cream followed by the reserved cooked livers with the onions and heat through.

•

Finally very carefully add the hard boiled egg quarters and allow to heat through stirring very gently with the wooden spoon.

•

Remove to a warmed serving dish with plain boiled rice and a few tomato quarters, dust all over with the paprika.

•

only five more to get

Melt the remaining butter in the frying pan and add the chicken liver strips and cook for five minutes turning with the wooden spoon often. Beware of over cooking and making the livers, hard and flaky – not good.

Take to the table wearing Abe Lincoln spade beard, frock coat and top hat.

North America

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A wooden spoon A slotted spoon A bread board A sharp kitchen knife

106

Vegetarian Dish

Original Baked Beans

Can you think of anything more North American than Baked Beans – O.K. other than Tomato ketchup, so why not put them together thought Mr. Heinz, another triumph with world wide acclaim. The natural vegetable pulse that is the haricot bean was harvested by the early settlers in Virginia and cooked in their communal ovens, according to legend, although quite where the tomato ketchup came from has yet to be documented. Making this is quite a thrill for you can always imagine that the first person to cook this recipe must have thought when dipping his finger into the pot “I wonder if anyone will like it”- just a shame you can not patent a dish.

Assemble:

North America

A large saucepan and lid A large oven proof casserole A large sieve A wooden spoon

Then you: •

Put the haricot beans in a bowl, with a pinch of bicarbonate of soda and cover with cold water and allow to soak overnight. Drain through a large sieve and reserve.

•

Place the drained beans in a large saucepan and just cover with water in which you have dissolved a teaspoon full of salt. Bring to the boil and then reduce to a simmer and cook for half an hour, then drain through the sieve and retain discarding the liquid.

•

Place the sliced onions in the bottom of the large oven proof casserole dish and cover with a layer of the cooked beans

Ingredients:

5 cups full of dried haricot beans 2 teaspoons of salt 1 large onion peeled and chopped ½ a cup of muscavado sugar 6 tablespoons of black treacle A tablespoon of dried mustard powder A teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper

•

Mix the black treacle, sugar, mustard and black pepper together in a cup and then spoon over the mixture. Add enough boiling water to cover and put on the lid and bake in a slow 130, oven for five hours.

•

Check each hour and add more water if required to cover the beans.

•

Take off the lid and bake for a further hour or until a slight crust has formed on top, warm up two bowls and take the dish to the table with the Broadway cast of “Cats” in hot pursuit.

107

Pudding

Knickerbocker Glory

Puddings play a vital part in the construction of the perfect meal to many Americans which they call dessert. This is designed to fill up any minute space that your host has neglected to fill with the preceding course(s). The instruments of such torture are many and varied and can even include such immobilizers as Pecan pie with ice cream or the diabolical “Devil’s Food Cake”. Do not think you will escape with the plea of “Just a tiny bit for me” our cousins do not do tiny bits of dessert, so you may as well treat your beloved to a waist increasing pud or she will feel that your attempt to replicate an American night out - by eating in, lacks authenticity. (What is more authentic than a knickerbocker?)

Ingredients:

2 fresh peaches peeled and stoned – the peaches I mean 8 fresh strawberries, hulled, and quartered 1 cup of vanilla ice cream 1 cup of chocolate ice cream 4oz of dark chocolate broken into little pieces 3 tablespoons of half decent brandy A half cup of thick double cream 2 glace cherries

Then you: •

Place half of the strawberries at the bottom of both glasses.

•

Scoop out a single scoop of vanilla ice cream and place on top of each glass’s strawberries.

•

Slice the quartered pieces of peach very thinly lengthways and place half on top of each ice cream.

•

Now take a scoop of chocolate ice cream and place on top of the peaches and top with the remains of the strawberries before adding another scoop of chocolate ice cream.

•

Melt the chocolate with the brandy in a cup resting in boiling water, and when fully dissolved and combined take a tablespoon full of the melt and pour carefully over the top of the chocolate ice cream in each glass – it will solidify immediately.

•

Whisk the double cream in a small bowl until it forms soft peaks, then take a tablespoon full and place on top of the melted chocolate and finally top each with a whole glace cherry.

•

Place glass on a saucer with the deep spoon needed to demolish the knickerbockers.

•

Serve in your Stars and Stripes boxers and Rocky Balboa grey hoody, although it’s best not to shout “AAdriennnnne”.

North America

Assemble:

Two tall sundae glasses An ice cream scoop

108

Your Tea House in the Souk in

Morocco Your Menu

To Start: Bidauoua Harrira Or Mezes Of Salted Lemons Salad Aubergine Almond Rolls Baked Eggs In Peppers Seafood: Tagine Of Monkfish Or Pastillia Of Seafood Main Course: Choose From Tagine Of Beef And Dates Tagine Of Lamb And Prunes Mrouzia Style Hare Tagine Or Pastillia Of Chicken And Apricots Kidneys Au Atlas Five Vegetable Cous Cous Pudding: Pear And Raisin “Bon Bouche”

109

110

Strange to believe that you are in Africa but as soon as you step ashore and see all of the natives in their shimmering white robes, contrasting their sun darkened skins and smell the hint of spices in the air you realize that you are indeed somewhere special. Nowhere demonstrates this feeling of “special” than your first glance at a Moroccan menu and all you have been told about its cuisine is true, - part Arabic, part Berber and part of the remains of the French colonial influence, some great flavours await once you can find a translator! The other thing to remember, or get used to if it’s your first time in North Africa, is that the structure of the meal is different in as much as the entire meal- soup, starters down to the desserts, that is desserts not the Sheik of Araby type desert are all served at the same time. From the border with Mali on the Atlantic to Tetuan opposite Spain an explosion of taste awaits you once you have got used to sitting on your haunches and eating with your fingers. Water is still a precious commodity in Morocco hence the evolution of the “Tagine, that curious shaped circular glazed bowl covered by a conical lid, which has evolved as a slow cooking method allowing all the evaporated liquid to be condensed back into the dish , thus magnifying its flavour – if you haven’t got one best go out and buy one, (Lakeland do a great one at £17.50),or else it will be best if you leave this section, you can not “do” Moroccan cooking without a tagine . To make your night as authentic as possible I have proposed the following beef, lamb, chicken and fish tagines with the notable exception of pork, hence the one soup and three starters ( Meze), and the wondrous “Pastillias” You may need to stock up on figs, dates, pickled lemons, cous cous, cumin seed, honey and Ras el Hanout spice powder, the definitive flavour of Morocco.

111

Recipes

Soup : Bidauoua Harrira Bedouin Mutton Soup Starter, Meze1 : Salted Lemon And Pepper Salad Meze2 : Aubergine Almond Rolls Meze3 : Baked Eggs In Peppers Seafood: Tagine Of Monkfish Seafood: Pastillia Of Seafood Beef / Veal : Tagine Of Beef And Dates Lamb/Mutton : Tagine Of Lamb And Prunes Game : Mrouzia Style Hare Chicken : Tagine Of Chicken And Apricots Chicken : Chicken Pastillia Offal : Kidneys Au Atlas Vegie : Five Vegetable Cous Cous Pudding : Pear And Raisin “Bon Bouche”

112

Soup

Bidaouia Harira Bedouin Mutton Soup

The desert tribesmen take their soup seriously and can survive on a bowl of Harira soup for a month, a soup is to them what a pail of water is to their camel. Methods vary but this will give an illusion of starlight nights at the oasis.

Assemble:

A large stock pan with lid A blender A medium sized saucepan A small frying pan A wooden spoon

Morocco

First Ingredients:

A cup of chickpeas soaked for 4 hours 4oz of minced lean mutton or lamb A celery heart chopped A cup of chopped coriander Half a teaspoon full of cinnamon A knob of butter 2 whole peeled onions 1 ½ pound of large tomatoes blanched, peeled and deseeded A half teaspoon full of saffron A heaped teaspoon of salt and pepper

Second Ingredients:

A pound of tomatoes, blanched, peeled, deseeded and sieved The juice of two lemons A cup of coriander A fresh egg A hank of each, thick and thin egg noodles Three ounces of flour

Then you: •

Put all of the ingredients into the large stock pan and bring to the boil, then cover with the lid, reduce the heat and simmer for an hour, after which check to see if the meat is tender, cook until it is to your taste. Take out the whole onions and set the stock aside.

•

Sieve the stock from stage one into a large saucepan, leaving the meat, onions etc in the stock pan

• • •

Add the sieved tomatoes to the sieved stock and bring to the boil then leave to simmer for ten minutes. Mix the flour with some cold water to form a slack paste and then add this little at a time to the simmering stock, stirring gently all the while. Now add the noodles bring to the boil and then reduce to a simmer

•

Now add the lemon juice, beat the egg and stir this into the mixture.

•

Finally add all this to the pan containing the original stock, stir well and bring to the boil, adding the rest of the coriander, without the stalks.

•

Take to the rug and having removed your shoes, just your shoes, and light the incense.

113

Starter

Meze 1 : Salted Lemon And Pepper Salad

As mentioned starters hardly exist in isolation, they appear as multiple small dishes of diverse ingredients and often with a variety of dips with which to eat them – anyway they make a most appetizing sight when you bring your guest to the table, the dips of hummus and tahini are common throughout the Arabic culinary scene and which you may find tasty when having a bash at a Moorish Delight night.

First Ingredients:

Six very fresh and clear skinned lemons A cup of coarse salt Tepid water

Assemble:

A roasting tin A small saucepan

Second Ingredients:

A large fresh green pepper A large red pepper 2 cloves of plump garlic peeled and thinly sliced A medium sized red onion A wine glass full of fresh lemon juice A wine glass full of freshly squeezed orange juice 6 black olives, stoned and cut in half A large pinch of ground cumin seed Salt and pepper

Then you: • •

Wash the lemons in warm water thoroughly Cut each lemon into quarters leaving them joined at the stalk end

•

Thickly salt the inside of each lemon - close up and put into the jar.

•

Cover with tepid water and tightly close the lid, and store in a cool dark, place for a minimum of 15 days

•

Wash the peppers and lightly score their skins with the point of a very sharp knife.

•

Cut off the top of the peppers and a little from their base deseed and cut to lay flat on the baking tray with the onion cut in half, and bake in a hot oven at 220 for one hour.

•

Take out the baking tray, place the peppers in a plastic bag and when cool, remove from the bag and strip the skins from the peppers then cut them into thin strips and slice the onion.

•

Put the orange and lemon juice into the saucepan and over a medium heat and reduce by half, then add the sliced peppers and sliced onion with the finely chopped garlic add the cumin and heat quickly to cook for three minutes, then allow to cool

•

Dress onto a cold plate with the sliced rind of two quarters of pickled salted lemon and quartered black olives. One down and two to go three to go - it’s a meze business!

Morocco

Assemble:

For the salted lemon a large storage jar, kilners are best, with tight fitting lid

114

Starter

Meze 2 : Aubergine Almond Rolls

A wonderful confection of aubergine and almond these tempting little rolls of heaven are difficult to refuse, perhaps you should make a few more than you intended!

Assemble:

A mixing bowl A medium sized frying pan A bread board Some kitchen roll

Then you: •

Mix the ground almonds, cinnamon and nutmeg together in a mixing bowl.

•

Slowly add the juice of the orange to the mixture and fold until you have an even fine paste, not too thin.

•

Heat the oil in the frying pan then slice the aubergines lengthways in thin strips and fry in the hot oil until they are soft, remove from the heat and drain onto kitchen paper.

•

Spread the paste onto the aubergine strips and roll to form a sausage shape.

•

Place on a serving dish and drizzle with honey and sprinkle all over with the sesame seeds, two down one to go.

Ingredients:

Morocco

A large fresh aubergine, topped and tailed 6oz of ground almonds 2 teaspoons full of ground cinnamon A pinch of nutmeg The juice of a large sweet orange A tablespoon full of sunflour oil A teaspoon full of sesame seeds A drizzle of runny honey

115

Starter

Meze 3 : Baked Eggs In Peppers

This can be a half decent meal by itself or a pretty good breakfast after a night of over refreshment, don’t break the egg yolks.

Ingredients:

2 red peppers, cored deseeded and thinly sliced 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and sliced A medium red onion, peeled and sliced A courgette sliced 2 large tomatoes, blanched, peeled, deseeded and pulped A tablespoon full of sunflower oil A large teaspoon full of paprika and a dash of cayenne pepper A pinch of ground cumin seed 2 fresh eggs

Then you: •

Heat the oil in the frying pan and quickly cook the sliced peppers, onion, courgette and garlic until soft. Add the tomato pulp and simmer for twenty minutes.

•

Mix in the paprika and cayenne pepper into the mixture and stir well and simmer for a further five minutes

•

Transfer the mixture into a baking dish and make two hollows with spoon large enough to accommodate the eggs.

•

Crack the eggs into the hollows sprinkle with cumin seed and bake in a moderate oven for about ten minutes, or until the whites are set and the yolk still runny. That’s the meze business over. Now it’s Tagine time so throw a little more charcoal on the fire, pull up a sandbag and “did I ever tell you about the time - ---------- ?”

Who stole the colour chart.?

Morocco

Assemble:

A large frying pan A small baking dish

116

Marinade

Tagine

As you are aware Morocco is an Islamic country, and as such pork plays no part in their cuisine, however just about everything else can be cooked using the Tagine. This magical bit of kit has developed from the need to conserve water and in achieving this seems to intensify the flavours used. If you have spent some time in Morocco you will be aware of their propensity to mix their key ingredients of fish, beef, mutton, offal and game with a variety of fruits all of which can be cooked in tagine. To this end the “Main Course” section of this cuisine is dominated by a tagine recipe for each key ingredient, as well as alternative local specialties. So here we go with the Tagine section.

Chermoula

Before you start cooking fish in Morocco it is important to marinade the fish first in a specific marinade called – Chermoula, it’s very simple and it does add total Moroccan authenticity to any fish dish.

Assemble:

Morocco

A blender A soup spoon

Then you: •

Take a large bunch of coriander, and trim away the stalks.

•

Place the trimmed coriander into a blender with three cloves of garlic peeled and sliced and a couple of soup spoons full of water and blitz until smooth.

•

Place the blitzed mixture into a bowl and add, as much water as it needs to make a light paste, then add, a soup spoon full of ground cumin seed, two soup spoons full of paprika, two soup spoons full of sunflower oil and then half a teaspoon full of crushed dried chilli flakes.

•

Store in a cool place and marinade any fish in as much of this mixture as you judge right, for at least two hours before you intend to cook it.

Ingredients:

Coriander Garlic Water Cumin Seeds and paprika Dried Chilli Flakes Sunflower oil

117

Fish Dish

Tagine 1 : Monkfish

The most popular fish in Morocco is Shad a rather bony strongly flavoured relative of the carp family, however because of both an Atlantic and Mediterranean coastline all manner of sea fish are readily available, tails of monkfish are wonderful in this dish. As with all tagines, cous cous is the perfect accompaniment to be garnished with slices of pickled lemon skins and plump green olives.

A tagine A slotted spoon A garlic press

Ingredients:

A pound of monkfish tail, skinned and filleted A bowl of “Chermoula” for marinade .A teaspoon full of freshly pressed ginger A pinch of saffron fronds 3 tablespoons full of groundnut oil A separate soup spoon full of “Chermoula” A quarter of a pickled lemon six large olives for garnishing

Then you: • •

Cut the monkfish fillets to bite size chunks and place in the “chermoula” marinade for a couple of hours. Mix the ginger, saffron and groundnut oil together and combine thoroughly.

•

Coat the bottom of the Tagine with the sauce mixture and place in the marinated monkfish.

•

Cover the monkfish with the rest of the sauce mixture and bring to just below the boil and simmer for five minutes.

•

Place a heat diffuser on the cooker and place the Tagine on the diffuser, reduce heat to low and put on the lid and allow to cook for thirty minutes. Check the seasoning and adjust to your taste, taking care as you remove the lid to allow all the moisture held by condensation under the lid, to fall back into the dish.

•

Should you require a thicker sauce, reserve the monkfish to a warmed dish take off the Tagine lid and reduce the sauce over a higher heat to the required consistency, when this is achieved, reintroduce the fish, garnish with the sliced pickled lemon skins and olives and replace the lid.

•

Put on your fez and Tommy Cooper chuckle and serve with cous cous, “Jus like that - boom boom”

Morocco

Assemble:

118

Fish Dish

Pastilla Of Seafood

Another unique feature of Moroccan cuisine is the Pastilla, perhaps a legacy from their French Colonial past in any event it is the most sumptuous of dishes and its appearance is captivating. My old girl said not to include this as men would find it too difficult – pish and tush nothing defeats the former captains of industry, especially if there is a most tasty reward!

Assemble:

A round baking dish A large heavy based frying pan A pastry brush,and cup

Ingredients for the Pastilla Pastry Case:

Morocco

8oz of filo pastry (at least 10 sheets) A small bowl of melted butter One egg yolk

For the filling:

½ a pound of white fish, haddock or cod ½ a pound of peeled large prawns 2oz of chopped squid (optional) 2 fully opened black field mushrooms An ounce of Chinese rice noodles 1 large onion peeled and grated 2 cloves of garlic peeled and crushed A teaspoon of ground cumin seeds A teaspoon of paprika and cayenne pepper mixed ½ of a pickled lemon peel, diced 3 tablespoons full of soy sauce 2oz of grated strong cheese, cheddar will be good 2oz of butter

Then you: • Heat a large knob of butter in the frying pan and gently fry the cubed white fish, for three minutes, then reserve.

•

In the same pan add a little more butter and fry the peeled prawns very gently so as not to make them hard, reserve with the white fish, same with the squid if you are using it.

•

Soak the Chinese noodles in a bowl of boiling water until soft, two minutes, reserve with the rest.

•

Discard the mushroom stalks and peel the flat remains, then dice very small and add to the frying pan with a little butter and when cooked add the rest of the reserved ingredients with the spices.

•

Combine all the ingredients stirring with a slotted wooden spoon and cook over a moderate heat for ten minutes and reserve in the pan over a low heat.

•

Now here’s the tricky bit, its easy when you know how, if you want to you can practice with bits of paper cut to size!

•

Brush the bottom of the round baking tin with melted butter then place about two thirds of a piece of filo pastry into the dish leaving a third overhanging the rim – no wrinkles are allowed.

•

Repeat this going round the dish clockwise until you return to your original first piece of pastry. Finally place one whole piece in the centre of the dish to cover all the rest, and then brush the inside with melted butter.

•

Now spread the warm mixture over the base of the baking disk to cover the bottom at a uniform height all round, and then sprinkle with half the cheese.

•

Now add the remainder of the mixture into the dish smoothing with a wooden spoon to an even height, sprinkle on the last of the cheese and brush with melted butter.

•

Beat an egg in a cup and then brush one sheet of pastry and place over the top of the filling.

•

Now brush the overhanging pieces of pastry and fold to the middle of the dish to encapsulate the whole “pie”

•

Finally brush the top of the “Pie” with the beaten egg and place on a final sheet as a cap and brush with melted butter.

•

Now bake in a pre heated oven at 200, for about half an hour or until golden brown, dust with parsley and serve with a Berber yelp of triumph as you brandish your ancient flintlock

•

There I told you it was not too difficult!!

119

Beef / Veal Dish

Tagine 2 : Meat And Date

Within the Tagine cooking of Morocco it will become apparent that it is possible to substitute the main ingredient as either lamb, beef or chicken however here are the more typical combinations - still what ever pulls your trigger - just experiment!

A tagine A slotted spoon A grater

Ingredients:

A pound of cubed beef, skirt or rump A pound of stoned dates A soup spoon full of toasted sesame seeds 4 ounces of skinned almonds A good teaspoon full of freshly ground black pepper A pinch of saffron fronds 2 inch stick of cinnamon 2 soup spoons full of thick clear honey 2 medium onions peeled and grated 4 ounces of butter A teaspoon full of ground cinnamon The skin of a ¼ of a pickled lemon Chopped coriander for garnish

Then you: •

Rinse the chopped meat in salted water and drain, and then pat dry with kitchen roll.

•

Melt the butter in the base of the Tagine and grate in the onion, taking care not to cry too much into the dish! Then add the meat and fry until just turning brown.

•

Add the cinnamon stick, saffron and stir to combine with the meat, then cover with water put on the lid and cook over a moderate heat for about an hour, or until the meat is just starting to become tender. Again take care when lifting the Tagine lid in order that all the condensed liquid is returned to the dish.

•

Add the honey and ground cinnamon, and turn up the heat to reduce the sauce, turning the meat often to allow the honey sauce to penetrate. Then add the rinsed dates, adding a little more water if you judge the sauce as too thick.

•

Skin the almonds by pouring boiling water over them and rubbing with a dish cloth, and then fry them in a little butter for about quarter of an hour until they turn golden.

•

Pour the dates on the honeyed sauce over the meat and then sprinkle over with the cooked almonds and toasted sesame seeds with a handful of chopped coriander, pickled lemon peel and put on your Goats wool hooded dejeliba and head for the rug.

Morocco

Assemble:

120

Lamb Dish

Tagine 3 : Lamb With Prunes

The major benefits of cooking in Tagine is that with low temperatures over a long time the toughest of meats succumb and become tender, or as tender as it ever will be! Perhaps this is why most of the “lamb” is of a vintage we would describe as mutton, with its attendant cheweyness. So don’t be afraid to use any cut of meat in your Tagine, just be prepared to wait a little bit longer for it.

Assemble:

A Tagine A heat diffuser. A slotted spoon A holding bowl A garlic press (for the ginger)

Then you: •

Put the tagine on a heat diffuser and turn up to a medium heat then add the butter and oil and melt and combine.

•

Add crushed garlic and fry until golden then add the cubed lamb fry until golden all over turning often,

•

Ingredients:

Morocco

A pound or more if you’re peckish, of cubed lamb from the shoulder 2 medium onions, peeled and grated 2 tablespoons full of groundnut oil A tablespoon full of butter A teaspoon of freshly pressed ginger A pinch of saffron fronds A tablespoon full of castor sugar ½ a teaspoon of ground cinnamon 4 cloves of garlic peeled and crushed ½ a pound of stoned dried prunes soaked in warm water A tablespoon full of blanched flaked almonds A soup spoon full of toasted sesame seeds Water

Add the grated onions, ginger, pepper, half the cinnamon and saffron then cover with water and put on the lid to simmer for a hour or until the lamb is tender.

•

In a separate small pan bring the prunes to a boil and immediately reduce heat to a gentle simmer. After twenty minutes drain and return to the pan and add a knob of butter, the sugar and the rest of the cinnamon and cook on for a further ten minutes.

•

Check the liquid level in the tagine and turn up heat with the lid off to reduce if required, turning often so as to protect the lamb from catching.

•

When the sauce is to your taste place the prunes over the meat in the tagine, sprinkle with toasted almond flakes and toasted sesame seeds, Ride to the rug on a white stallion, white scarf blowing in the wind.

A snake and charmer.

121

Game Dish

Mrouzia Style Hare

The nomadic traditions of the Berber people have implanted in their national character a love of hunting and the chase – witness any Taxi driver in Marrakech! One of the festive dishes with game is a splendid combination of strong game in the form of Hare and sweet spices; the result is distinctive and quite unforgettable. This recipe does not work with rabbit as the whole roundness of dark well seasoned hare can not be imitated with any other meat. It may be hard work for you to come by a hare, but any self respecting game dealer will acquire, skin, paunch and joint for one you.

Ingredients:

Use the saddle of hare in 2 pieces if it’s just the 2 of you – the rest can be jugged 6oz of plump raisins 6oz of almonds, blanched and peeled * A heaped spoon of a “Ras El Hanot mixture A level teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper A small pinch of saffron fronds or powder 2 medium onions, peeled and grated 6oz of butter A teaspoon of ground cinnamon 4 soup spoons of thick, clear honey

hich ture wth ice mixes e * it’s alasp in t trans teQsuaays “b s nt ie ed gr In shop”! llent one – www. do an yexince k qua gredients.co.u

Then you: •

Wash the Hare in salted water, leave to drain, then pat dry with kitchen paper.

•

Put all the spices, Ras- El –Hanot, cinnamon, saffron and pepper into the coffee grinder a whiz to make a fine powder.

• •

Coat the Hare evenly with the ground spices. Soak the raisins in water with a little of the spice mixture.

•

Melt the butter in the bottom of the saucepan and add the grated onions, and peeled almonds, when blended add the Hare pieces and cover with water, to just cover the Hare.

•

Cook with the lid on for at least two hours over a moderate heat turning the Hare from time to time.

•

When the Hare is quite tender, remove with a slotted spoon and reserve onto a warmed serving dish.

•

•

To the remaining liquid add the sieved raisins and the honey, little at a time stirring constantly and allow the sauce to reduce to your desired consistency, it should be nice and syrupy when it is added to the Hare. Cook on for ten minutes. Serve on a bed of cous cous having closed the tent flap and expelled the children and damped down the camp fire. *

Morocco

Assemble:

A heavy based saucepan with lid. A slotted wooden spoon An electric coffee grinder

122

Chicken Dish

Tagine 4 : Chicken Tagine With Apricots

Chickens are substantially “free” range, they wander just about everywhere, and in many cases look as though they could do with a good meal rather than provide one, which is where the joy of the Tagine comes in, for even the most ancient boiler can be reduced to a tender mass with sufficient time in the slow cooking Tagine. By the way if you are in a Moroccan market looking to buy a chicken it will normally be “on the hoof” or rather the claw, so don’t be surprised if they catch the poor beast and slaughter it in front of your eyes – brings a new dimension to fresh food!.

Assemble:

Morocco

A tagine A heat diffuser A slotted spoon A small bowl for soaking the apricots A Garlic press (for the ginger) A grater

Ingredients:

2 plump skinned breasts of chicken cut into bite size pieces 2 onions peeled and grated A teaspoon of freshly pressed ginger A large pinch of saffron fronds A teaspoon full of chopped parsley and coriander ½ a teaspoon of ground cumin seed A heaped teaspoon of paprika A teaspoon of freshly squeezed lemon juice A tablespoon of runny honey 8 dried apricots cut in half A knob of butter

Then you: •

Place the dried apricots in the bowl and cover with boiling water and leave to soak for one hour.

•

Heat the butter in the Tagine and when hot add the grated onion and stir, adding the ginger and saffron, maybe a little water if it looks too thick.

•

Now add the chicken pieces and cover with the mixture, add a touch of lemon juice, then cover with the lid and cook over a moderate heat for about an hour using a heat diffuser.

•

Test the meat which should still have a little firmness, and add the paprika, cumin, chopped parsley with the coriander, stirring into the mixture. Cook for another ten minutes.

•

Drain the apricots and cover with honey and the rest of the lemon juice.

•

Add the apricots to the Tagine and cook with the lid off for ten minutes over a moderate heat. If the sauce is too thin for your taste cook on over a higher heat to reduce, making sure you stir continually, in order that the chicken does not “catch”

•

Garnish with slices of pickled lemon rind, and sesame seeds and serve playing finger cymbals.

123

Chicken Dish

Chicken Pastillia

This follows exactly the same principal as the recipe for the previous pastillia, a covering of filo pastry brushed with melted butter and egg whose centre can be a wide variety of ingredients, this next one is for chicken but can be just as tasty if made using pigeon, its combination of sweet and spice is a delight.

Ingredients:

2 skinless breasts of chicken 3 medium onions peeled and grated A tablespoon full of groundnut oil Half a teaspoon full of salt and half of ground pepper Half a teaspoon full of cinnamon A pinch of saffron fronds A cup of parsley freshly chopped 4 fresh eggs A cup of almonds blanched and peeled 2 ounces of castor sugar The juice of a sweet orange A tablespoon full of cinnamon dust and icing sugar for the garnish with runny honey

Then you: •

Boil the breasts of chicken in salted water for twenty minutes and then reserve to a plate to cool. When cool, shred with a fork until all is as a thick paste, season with salt and pepper.

•

Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry together the grated onions, saffron, cinnamon, and parsley cooking until the onion is cooked then add the beaten eggs a little at a time stirring constantly until you have homogenous mass.

•

Chop the blanched almonds with a little sugar and moisten to a paste with orange juice.

•

Line the baking dish with the filo pastry as previously described in the preceding recipe, making sure you add the last sheet covering the base, and then brush with melted butter.

•

Now place a layer of the onion and egg mixture into the dish and smooth until level. Then add a uniform layer of the shredded chicken and finally a layer of the chopped almonds.

•

Add the final layer of filo and seal the edges as before with melted butter to hide the folds then bake in a moderate oven for half and hour until the pastilla is golden brown,

•

Sieve over the pastilla a dusting of icing sugar and then two diagonal lines of cinnamon powder.

•

Serve in long white cotton nightie and multi coloured head headdress with sandalwood perfume behind the ears.

A platoon of Pastillas

Morocco

Assemble:

A round baking dish A slotted wooden spoon A cup A pastry brush

124

Offal Dish

Kindeys Au Atlas

They are a thrifty lot the Bedouin tribesmen and are taught the value of eating all that is edible when available, not knowing where the next meal may come from. In the case of Offal the Kidneys are a special treat and the strong flavour of beef kidney responds well to this simple spicy recipe.

Assemble:

A heavy based saucepan and lid A wooden spoon A bowl in which to soak the diced kidneys

Ingredients:

Morocco

A pound of beef kidney 2 teaspoons of paprika 1 teaspoon of cumin seed freshly ground Half a teaspoon of ground cinnamon 4oz of butter

Then you: •

•

With a sharp knife take the soft kidney meat from the solid central core and cut into cubes then place in a bowl of salted water for an hour. Drain and replace the water and salt and leave for a further half an hour. Drain the kidneys and dust with the spices all mixed together.

•

Melt the butter in the saucepan and cook the kidneys over a gentle heat after adding the rest of the spices and a little water to cover.

•

When the kidneys feel firm remove, take one out and cut in half if the centre is ever so slightly pink it’s just right, then reserve to a warm plate.

•

Reduce the sauce to your preference and pour over the kidneys beating your tambourine loudly turning in ever decreasing circles until -------

I bid two camels for her.

125

Vegetarian Dish

Five Vegetable Cous Cous

The ever present cous cous, named after the seku dish used in its making, is the vehicle for most of the day to day food in Morocco and as many have irregular access to meat, fish or fowl the available vegetables are often served with cous cous with a “topping” of a sweet or savoury to enhance the meal. A popular dish to be offered in many restaurants is Cous Cous with seven vegetables, however there are only five in this recipe (unless you feel like adding more!”

Then you: •

Place the cous cous with a little salt in a heat proof bowl and lightly cover with boiling water, cover and allow to stand for ten minutes.

•

Strain the cous cous into a sieve and place the sieve on top of the pan and bring the water to the boil, add a knob of butter to the top of the cous cous, cover with a lid and steam for ten minutes before reducing the heat to a simmer.

•

Peel and deseed the squash and cut into strips, likewise the carrot and turnip. Cut the courgette into strips and then place all the vegetable strips into a pan of rapidly boiling water with a bay leaf and sprig of thyme and cook until firm, but never soft, then reserve to a warmed dish.

•

Cut the topped and tailed aubergine into cubes and fry in the frying pan with butter and a small pinch of cinnamon. When golden remove from the pan to a piece of kitchen towel on a plate reserve and keep warm.

•

Now for the onion topping – fry the finely chopped onion in a mixture of oil and butter until golden and soft, then add the cinnamon, raisins and honey and stir until thick and caramelized

•

Place the steamed cous cous onto a serving dish in a mound and at the summit of the mound spoon on the caramelized onions, arrange the cooked vegetable strips alternately clockwise from the summit and intersperse with the cooked aubergine cubes.

•

Take to the nearest sand dune and warble “The Desert Song” under your portable palm tree.

Ingredients:

6oz of cous cous A small butternut squash A large courgette A medium aubergine A large carrot A small turnip A tablespoon of groundnut oil 2oz of butter A large peeled and finely chopped onion 2 tablespoons of raisins 2 tablespoons of runny honey A teaspoon of ground cinnamon A bay leaf A sprig of thyme A sliver of fresh ginger

Morocco

Assemble:

A small frying pan A medium heat proof bowl. A slotted wooden spoon

126

Pudding

Pear And Raisin Bon Bouche

As you are trying to concoct a fairly authentic Moroccan meal you will have placed all your dishes for the feast on the table (rug) some of which will be sweet and some savoury, which is why there is not a great tradition of “sweets” to end a meal, for these are already available throughout the meal. Little sweet almond biscuits are served with the coffee as is fresh fruit; however the following recipe for fruit pastry “bon bon” may be just the thing that gets you promoted to the Harem!

Assemble:

A small saucepan A small frying pan A fine sieve A wooden spoon An oven proof dish

Then you: • •

Melt the butter in the frying pan and when hot add the diced pears, sugar and cinnamon and sauté for about fifteen minutes, then set aside to cool.

Morocco

•

Lay flat a sheet of filo pastry on a board and spoon into the centre a heaped spoon full of the fruit mixture, then fold the edges of the sheet together into the centre nip together to make a tight parcel and place on a baking tray, repeat this until mixture used.

•

Put the parcels on the baking tray in a hot oven, 220, for five minutes or until the pastry is golden.

Ingredients:

2 large ripe pears 2oz of raisins A knob of butter 2oz of castor sugar A half teaspoon of cinnamon Honey to drizzle Toasted sesame seeds

Peel and core the pears and finely dice.

• •

Remove and drizzle with a little honey and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds Serve brandishing and playing your ancient three note flute.

Anyone seen Norman Tebbit?

Morocco

127

Moroccan Boy Band!

128

Your Table in the Bazzar in

Turkey Your Menu

To Start: Dugun Corbasi Or Meze: Imam Bayildi Seafood: Badem Taratorlu Leverek Or Karides Halikarnesse Main Course: Choose From Papaz Yahani Kadin Budu Kofte Cerkez tavugu Mantarli Ordek Ic Pilaf Parades Dolmas Pudding: Bakalava

129

130

From Istanbul in Europe to the Russian and Syrian border this huge country produces a wide variety of flavours from their rich agriculture and their coastline which stretches from the Black sea to the eastern end of the Mediterranean. Although the official religion is Islam the country is secular and ruled by a democracy, a legacy of their revered “Father of the Nation “Gamal Attaturk, so not much chance of breaking out the bacon sarnnies you might think- not so as the secular nature of the Government has a tolerance for non Islamic practice not found in the sacred Islamic countries. Having a history rich in conquest and a reputation for enjoyment of such, the naming of many of their food favourites reflect their admiration of the fair sex – Ladies navel, Woman’s thigh and Sultan lips to name but three. The story of the 1001 nights is well remembered and understood by the lusty Turks, whose genetic folk memory of the Harems of old surface on the tourist beaches of this most beautiful coastline and make them the most engaging of hosts to their ancient country. Hospitality is a trademark of many peoples with a nomadic origin and here the Turks excel, the obligatory offer of tea to a stranger is quickly followed by the offer to share the next meal and if you are not careful you could be adopted for life! Anyway if you decide to conjure up a Sultan’s delight for your Harem favourite the following recipes should pave your way to the stars. One thing you may need to bolster up your Turkish kitchen, Sumak a sort of peppered spice which is sprinkled over or combined with feta cheese salad.

131

Recipes

Soup : Dugun Corbasi Wedding Soup Starter; Meze : Imam Bayildi Stuffed Aubergines Fish : Badem Taratorlu Leverek Poached Sea Bass With Almond Sauce Shellfish : Karides Halikarnasse Shrimp Casserole With Cheese Beef / Veal : Papaz Yahni Priest’s Yahnisi Lamb/Mutton : Kadin Budu Kofte Woman’s Thigh Kofte Game : Mantarli Ordek Duck With Mushrooms Chicken : Cerkez Tavugu Chicken With Walnut of Hazelnut Sauce Offal : Ic Pilaf Chicken Liver Pilaf Vegie : Vegtable Dolams Stuffed Green Peppers Pudding : Baklava Honey Nut And Apricot Cake

132

Soup

Wedding Soup

Most villages have their own special dishes for village festivals, many of which they are reluctant to part with the recipe, however this dish is popular at all Turkish weddings so you will not need to dash out and find yourself a Turkish bride in order to cook this delightful start to a meal.

Assemble:

A large heavy based pan with lid A mixing bowl A whisk A wooden spoon A slotted spoon A small sauce pan A small jug

Turkey

Ingredients:

A pound of neck of lamb cut into cubes 2 ½ pints of water A teaspoon full of salt A teaspoon of dried red chilli flakes 3 tablespoons of unsalted butter Four tablespoons of plain flour 3 tablespoons of thick yogurt A tablespoon of fresh lemon juice The yolk of one large fresh egg

Then you: •

Put the meat in the saucepan and cover with the water, add the salt and boil. Reduce to a simmer, covering with the lid, skimming the surface of the liquid regularly. When the meat is tender strain through a coarse sieve and reserve the liquid.

•

After the meat has cooled separate any bones and excess fat with a sharp knife. Cut the remaining meat up into very small pieces and finely chop.

•

In the mixing bowl combine the flour, egg yolk, and yoghurt and lemon juice and whisk until a smooth paste is achieved.

•

•

Bring the liquid back to the boil and add all the finely chopped meat, turn down the heat and allow to simmer for ten minutes.

•

Melt the butter in a small sauce pan then add the chilli flakes, heat through but do not burn, then sieve out the chilli and pour into a heated jug

•

•

Wonderloaf – what’s a Wonderloaf?

Bring the stock to the boil and gradually stir the mixture into the boiling stock until all is added, bring the liquid back to the boil and then strain through the sieve, returning the liquid to the pan.

The soup should be served with a little of the chilli butter on top, you may, however serve separately in the small jug to allow your lovely to add to her own taste. Serve singing the wedding march in tourist Turkish.

133

Starter

Imam Bayildi Stuffed Aubergine

A bit like all the North African cuisines, starters are often served with the entire meal at its beginning, and thus the starter is the thing you eat first. This can be a bit of a lottery as those in the know tend to grab the most popular pieces first, to avoid this here is a super starter to serve in its own right – named after a famous Imam who on tasting this for the first time swooned ( or maybe he was just tired and emotional !)

Ingredients:

2 medium sized aubergines (Eggplants) 3 tablespoons of olive oil 2 medium sized tomatoes blanched and peeled 2 medium sized onions peeled, cut and left as rings 2 cloves of Garlic peeled and finely diced A teaspoon of caster sugar 2 teaspoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice A tablespoon of freshly chopped parsley

Then you: •

Remove the eggplant stems about one inch into the vegetable.

•

With the potato peeler peel the eggplant lengthways leaving about a half inch of skin between each peel – this is to stop them falling apart whilst cooking!

•

Heat the oil in the frying pan and when hot sauté the eggplant, constantly turning gently until they are uniformly golden brown. Remove from the heat and reserve into the ovenproof dish.

•

Fry the onions and garlic in the remaining oil, adding a little more if necessary. When they begin to turn brown add the parsley and chopped peeled tomatoes with the sugar and cook softly for ten minutes.

•

Arrange the eggplants side by side in the ovenproof dish and make a deep incision in each from the centre to about one inch from the top and tail, scoop a little of the eggplant seeds to make a small cavity in which you carefully place the onion and tomato mixture.

•

Place a little oil in the bottom of the dish and cover and then allow to cook gently for about half an hour or until the eggplant is tender.

•

Allow to cool, garnish with a sprig of parsley and serve striped to the waist wearing baggy pantaloons and gold slippers with the toes turned up.

Turkey

Assemble:

A small frying pan A heatproof oven dish with lid A wooded spoon A potato peeler

134

Fish Dish

Badem Taratorlu Leverek

Poached Sea Bass With Almond Sauce

A paradise for the fish lover, Turkey has a vast inland sea coast with its Black Sea shoreline bordering on Russia, here be The Hamsi, wonderful tiny whitebait like fish that are almost a national dish when in season. The fresh water fish from its lakes and rivers are pure and unaffected by any land drain pollution, whilst the sea’s harvest is bountiful – this was a tough choice however the succulent Sea Bass won the day.

Assemble:

A deep poaching pan with lid 2 fish slices A food processor A small saucepan

Then you: •

Rinse the fillets in salted water and pat dry with kitchen paper.

•

Put four cups of water in the deep pan, add the salt pepper, bay leaf, lemon juice and parsley and bring to the boil for ten minutes.

•

Ingredients:

Turkey

2 large fillets of sea bass, cleaned and scales rubbed 1 teaspoon of coarsely ground black pepper 1 bay leaf A tablespoon of freshly squeezed lemon A sprig of flat leaf parsley

For the sauce:

1 cup of soft white bread crumbs 1 cup of blanched and skinned almonds 3 tablespoons of lemon juice 2 tablespoons of olive oil 2 cloves of garlic peeled

Take the liquid off the boil and allow cooling for five minutes before adding both fish fillets skin side down, making sure they are covered in water, adding more if necessary. Cover and simmer for about ten minutes or until the fish flakes when tested with a gentle prod of a fork. Lower heat to almost zero and allow to cool.

•

Now construct the famous taratorlu sauce by placing the bread crumbs, almonds and garlic in the food processor with three tablespoons full of water and the lemon juice and whiz until a smooth paste forms

•

With the whizzer running add the oil in a constant stream until you have a soft creamy sauce. After seasoning to taste, transfer to small sauce pan to keep warm on low heat.

•

Take the fillets out of the dish whilst still hot, with the two fish slices so as to keep the fillets whole. Cover each fillet completely with the warmed sauce, lightly dust with a sprinkling of paprika from about two feet.

•

Serve under the crescent moon on two camel saddles covered with a newly woven kilm.

135

Shellfish Dish

Karides Halikarnas

Shrimp Casserole With Cheese

The Eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea provides much of the shellfish that forms an integral part of the menus in the coastal resorts which are threatening to overtake the Euro blighted Spanish Costas in popularity with the British tourist. This dish is advertised on almost all coastal restaurant menus, as either a “meze” starter or a sumptuous main – either way it’s Turkey on a plate.

Then you: •

Remove the heads from the prawns and reserve in a small saucepan. Peel the hard shell from the prawn tails and clean the dark vein from the length of the tail by lifting out with a sharp knife. Then wash the cleaned tails under a running tap.

•

Put enough water to cover the prawn heads in the saucepan, add a little salt and the bay leaf and bring to the boil, then turn to a low simmer for twenty minutes, strain through a sieve and reserve the liquid into the pan having discarded the heads.

•

In the other small pan melt the butter over a medium heat and sauté the onions and garlic until soft but not brown, then add the prawns and sauté for only one minute constantly turning to apply even heat.

•

Add the white wine and other bay leaf and reduce the liquid over a medium heat for two minutes. Add the diced tomatoes to the mixture then cover and cook for two minutes.

•

Remove the prawns with a slotted spoon and reserve in the oven proof glass dish.

•

Add the prawn head liquid to the remaining liquid and reduce over a high heat by half or until only a cupful remains.

Ingredients:

12 decent sized raw prawns A soup spoon of unsalted butter A small onion finely chopped A clove of garlic peeled and finely chopped A cup full of grated gruyere cheese A small cup of dry white wine A small cup of water 2 medium tomatoes, blanched, peeled, deseeded and chopped A fresh bay leaf A pinch of paprika

•

•

I am a sucker for an Octopus

Pour the reduced liquid over the reserved prawns and sprinkle over with the grated cheese, dust with paprika and place in a hot oven (180) for three minutes, or until the cheese has completely melted and covered the prawns. Now rush to the table shouting “merhaba, mut louie yum” - means – Hello , I’m happy!!

Turkey

Assemble:

2 small saucepans and lids An ovenproof glass dish and lid A wooden spoon A slotted spoon A small sieve

136

Beef / Veal Dish

Papaz Yahni

The Priests Veal Stew

Like a lot of countries which have a hot climate the concept of “hanging” freshly butchered meat in order to mature its flavour does not exist, as cool storage is expensive and rarely available. Thus a lot of the beef bought at market may have been slaughtered the day before tending to a mild flavour and a soft texture. This recipe is as near as the Turks get to a beef stew and is served at important family gatherings at which their local priest or Imam would attend; the dish is named in his honour.

Assemble:

A medium saucepan with lid A wooden spoon

Ingredients:

Turkey

A pound of veal cubed into half inch chunks 6 tablespoons of butter 10 cloves of garlic 1 pound of shallots, peeled Three large beef tomatoes, blanched, peeled and deseeded A tablespoon of tomato paste A teaspoon of flour A teaspoon of paprika 2 green peppers, deseeded and coarsely chopped 6 cups of water Salt and ground black pepper to season

Then you: •

Peel and finely chop the garlic cloves, and add to the saucepan in which you have melted the butter

•

At a high heat add the veal over which you have sprinkled a little salt. Stir constantly so as to seal and colour the meat, but not burn. Now add the shallots and cook over strong heat until they just colour.

•

When the meat juices have almost evaporated, sprinkle the flour over the meat and stir to mix well.

•

Add the chopped tomatoes, and the tomato paste dissolved in a little water, add the paprika and season to taste. Cook over medium heat for ten minutes.

•

Add six cups of hot water and bring the whole mixture to the boil, then lower heat and cook gently for a further fifteen minutes.

•

Now add the chopped green peppers and continue to cook until the meat is tender.

•

Take to table wearing Caliph’s turban and white harem trousers with glittering bolero top.

137

Lamb / Mutton Dish

Kadin Budu Kofte Woman’s Thigh Kofte

The Turks have a great love of finely chopping all their ingredients which is all very well but a bit labour intensive, however do not be tempted to take any shortcuts and just dice your ingredients or you will never achieve the genuine texture that is such a delight in Turkish cooking. The following recipe is for lamb with the usual caveat that in most cases in Turkey the meat will be well passed that title of lamb. The title of this dish Kadin Bubu Kofte translates as “woman’s thigh Kofte” which will look pretty intriguing when you write out the evening’s menu!

Ingredients:

A small coffee cup of pilaf rice 1 onion very finely chopped A pound of lamb trimmed and very finely chopped A teaspoon of salt 2 eggs, separated. Whites and yolks beaten separately 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil

Then you: •

Combine the rice, onions, lamb and salt and knead until thoroughly mixed.

•

Divide into four and roll separately, then flatten into flattened ovals.

•

Place the patties in a frying pan and cover with water and cook on a medium heat until all the water has been absorbed.

•

Take the enlarged patties out of the pan, and pat dry on kitchen paper.

•

Heat the oil in the cleaned and dried frying pan until it starts to move in the pan. Dip the dried patties in the beaten egg yolks and brown in the hot oil for about three minutes per side.

•

Reserve to a warmed plate and decorate with the whisked egg whites and take to the table with a jewelled dagger in your belt glinting like your eyes.

Turkey

Assemble:

A mixing bowl A chopping board A sharp kitchen knife A small frying pan A small bowl and whisk

138

Game Dish

Mantari Ordek

Duck With Shallots And Wild Mushrooms

Ducks for some reason seem to be a bit skinny in most Turkish farmyards, however when plucked and dressed there is a surprising amount of meat which has the most intense flavour – best not to ask what they feed them on. This dish has a great presentation with the matchstick fried bread and green olives.

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A heat diffuser A wooden spoon

Then you: •

Melt the butter in the large frying pan and heat till it starts foaming, then add the cubed duck and fry for ten minutes until a golden brown, stirring constantly – it must not burn.

•

Sprinkle flour over duck and turn with the wooden spoon till all is absorbed, then add tomatoes, and the bouquet garni and just cover with water, season and cook for an hour and a half over a medium heat stirring often to insure the mixture does not catch on the bottom of the pan – its best to use a heat diffuser on your hob (available at Lakeland) as this ensures even heat throughout the slow cooking.

•

Now add the whole shallots and roughly chopped mushrooms and cook for a further half an hour, by which time the sauce should have a thick rich consistency.

•

Pour into a warmed serving dish and keep warm.

Ingredients:

Turkey

2 duck breasts, skin on cut into cubes. 3 soup spoons of unsalted butter. 2 tomatoes, blanched, peeled, deseeded and chopped Half a soup spoon of plain flour 2 thick slices of fresh white bread – not U.K. plastic type 4 glasses of water A bouquet garni 10 small shallots, peeled 10 pitted green olives 10 medium sized flat (black) mushrooms Salt and ground black pepper

•

Cut the bread into long very thin strips and carefully fry in hot butter until a crisp golden brown, try to keep the stick shape by carefully turning to avoid breakage.

•

Divide the cooked duck onto serving plates and arrange the cooked bread croutons in cris cross pattern and sprinkle all over with finely chopped green olives.

•

Serve pulling a Trojan horse, avoid mentioning Helen.

139

Chicken Dish

Cerkez Tavugu

Chicken With Walnut Or Hazelnut Sauce

It’s great food shopping in Turkey as each village area has designated a market day where all the local “farmers” with their families turn up at day break, some travelling great distances, to lay out a stall to sell what every they have taken from the ground, or bough that morning- talk about a fresh food department! Here is the place to buy a chicken, as free range as could be, have it live or select one and call back in ten minutes when it’s killed, drawn and portioned, still warm. This recipe has made its way onto many European restaurant menus as it showcases the famous “taboloth “nut sauce.

A large saucepan with lid A medium sized mixing bowl An electric coffee grinder A small frying pan

Ingredients:

2large chicken joints with yellow fat – if possible 1 small carrot, sliced 1 small peeled potato 2 small onions peeled and coarsely chopped Water

For the sauce:

Half a pound of shelled walnuts (or hazelnuts) 2 slices of stale white bread, crusts removed 2 teaspoons full of paprika 2 cloves of garlic peeled and creamed with a little salt

Then you: •

Wash the chicken pieces in salted water, pat dry and place in large saucepan with the onion, potato and carrot and a little salt and bring to the boil.

•

When the chicken is about half cooked add a little more salt, skim the surface to remove grunge, reduce heat and cook until chicken is tender, then remove from heat and allow to cool.

•

When chicken has cooled remove the skin and discard, take all meat off the bone and cut into small pieces. Reserve the cooking liquid as stock for later.

•

Grind the walnuts in an electric grinder until they are as fine as possible, and then transfer into a mixing bowl.

•

Soak the slices of stale bread in some of the reserved chicken stock, squeeze and crumble into the ground walnuts, now add the paprika as you knead the mixture by hand and then add the garlic and a little salt kneading the mixture as you go.

•

Now beat into the mixture a cup of the warm chicken stock and whisk until you have a thick pouring consistency.

•

Allow the sauce to stand for ten minutes, and then lightly fold in the chicken pieces. Divide into portions and dust with paprika and drizzle over a small amount of olive oil.

•

Stick a ruby in you navel, don your clean wrestler’s loin cloth and serve with feta salad.

Turkey

Assemble:

140

Offal Dish

IC Pilav

Spiced Chicken Livers Pilaf

As in most frugal societies when an animal is killed for food every possible edible part has a recipe designed to make a palatable dish for family consumption. This recipe uses chicken livers and bulks them up with risotto type rice called baldo – do not fret if you can not find it at your local supermarket - any Spanish or Italian risotto rice will be a good substitute. For the more affluent this dish is often served, using less liver, as an accompaniment to a chicken stew.

Assemble:

Turkey

A mixing bowl A small saucepan A large heavy based frying pan A chopping board and sharp cook’s knife A colander A wooden spoon

Ingredients:

2 cups Baldo, or any risotto rice 2 tablespoons of pine nuts 2 tablespoons of plump currants 6 to 8oz of fresh chicken’s livers 1 small onion peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter A teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon of allspice 3 cups of chicken stock A teaspoon of sugar A small bunch of dill for garnish

Then you: •

Rinse the rice in cold running water, picking out any damaged grains. Put in a mixing bowl and add half a tablespoon full of salt, cover with very hot, but not boiling, water and allow to stand for half an hour, then rinse in cold running water, drain and reserve.

•

Soak the currants in warm water until they swell, then drain and reserve to a small bowl.

•

Chop the chicken’s livers very finely, discarding any firm tissue. Melt the butter in a heavy based frying pan, then stir in the pine nuts over the heat and fry until lightly coloured, now add the chopped onion and fry until it begins to soften.

•

When the onions just start to turn brown, add the finely diced liver, stirring until all has changed colour, from red to brown. Now add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon for a few minutes, then add the currants with the allspice and lightly stir until all is thoroughly mixed.

•

Now add the seasoned chicken stock in which you have dissolved the sugar, cover and bring to the boil, then remove lid and adjust heat to a light simmer.

•

When the liquid has evaporated and steam holes appear on the surface of the rice, remove from the heat and allow to stand for twenty minutes.

• •

Chop the dill finely and sprinkle on the surface and stir with a wooden spoon from the edges to the centre. Serve in Aladdin toe turned up slippers with forty man sized wine jars close by -offer new lamps for old.

141

Vegetarian Dish

Parades Dolmas Stuffed Tomatoes

As with many peoples who live and a fertile country a diet of vegetables and fruits, home or locally grown is the cheapest way to sustain a family, and so they become “natural “vegetarians”, out of necessity rather than persuasion. A common meal of stuffed “buffalo” tomato is one of the more appealing dishes and is delicious both hot and cold.

Ingredients:

2 large “buffalo” or “beefsteak” tomatoes A medium onion finely chopped 3 tablespoons of olive oil 4oz of long grain rice A tablespoon of fresh mint chopped A tablespoon of fresh parsley, chopped An ounce of currants An ounce of almonds, finely chopped A scattering (the collective noun) of pine nuts A teaspoon of caster sugar

Then you: •

Slice the tops of the tomatoes about half an inch from the top; you need a freshly sharpened knife. Scoop out the interior carefully using a teaspoon, and reserve the pulp discarding the core and seeds.

•

Season the inside with a little salt and then sprinkle in the sugar and leave to stand.

•

Heat the olive oil in the frying pan and cook the onions until golden brown, then add the rice and cover with boiling water, cook gently for about ten minutes, or until the rice is tender.

•

Reserve the cooked rice and onions into a mixing bowl and add the currants, almonds and the chopped reserved tomato pulp, keeping back about a tablespoonful.

•

Mix in the chopped herbs into the mixing bowl and gently knead into a light paste, then spoon into the hollowed tomatoes and replace their tops.

•

•

Arrange in the ovenproof dish and brush the topped tomatoes with olive oil, then pour over the remaining tomato juice and bake in a medium oven at 180 for about half an hour taking care to avoid the skins burning. Garnish with flat leaf parsley and serve singing the opening chorus of “Istanbul is now Constantinople”.

Turkey

Assemble:

Two small mixing bowls A small frying pan An ovenproof dish A teaspoon

142

Pudding

Baklava

Apricot And Almond Sweet Pastry

The Turkish love of sweetmeats is evidenced by their greatest gift to dentistry – The incomparable Turkish delight, sold in a huge variety of flavours all over the world. Perhaps an equal contender for the pudding crown is the delicious Baklava, a traditional sweet which is sold on street corners all over Turkey. It is the perfect way to end a Turkish meal – strong black, rose water scented, Turkish coffee and a couple, or five, pieces of Baklava.

Assemble:

A large Swiss roll tin – this will make far too much for your pudding, but I bet the rest does not last a week An electric blender A pastry brush A whole large lemon

Turkey

Ingredients:

6oz of unsalted butter, melted 1 pound of bought filo pastry Half a pound of chopped almonds Half a pound of dried apricots chopped Half a pound of muscavado sugar 2 tablespoons of lemon juice Chopped pistachio nuts for garnish

Then you: • • • • •

Brush the base of your Swiss roll tin with a little of the melted butter, ensuring that the whole base has been covered. Carefully layer up one sheet of the filo pastry taking care to cover the base and neatly arrange any excess over the sides of the tin. Brush the first layer of pastry with melted butter and add a further two layers, brushing each one with the melted butter. Blend together the diced dried apricots and chopped almonds in an electric blender until you have a coarse paste.

•

Gently spread the mixture thinly over the buttered pastry, with a palette knife, using the lemon as a rolling pin (it gives the mixture a hint of lemon). Make sure the distribution of the filling is even.

•

Layer up again with one sheet of filo and brush with melted butter and add a further two layers as before, buttering each one

•

Add the final layer of paste and cover with three final layers of buttered pastry.

•

With a sharp knife cut the pastry in diamond shapes about an inch long, making sure you get to the bottom of the tin.

•

Now bake in the oven until the pastry has risen and the top is golden brown.

• • copyright Eliza Russell

Pre heat your oven to 180.

Heat the sugar and lemon juice in 8 oz. of water, and dissolve and simmer for twenty minutes. Pour the sugar liquid over the baklava whilst it is still warm, and sprinkle with chopped pistachio nuts, serve when cool wearing a large scimitar (to keep the grandchildren away)

Turkey

143

144

Your Beach Shack in

Goa

Your Menu

To Start: John Martyin’s Agsal Or Prawns Rawara Seafood: Crabs Sukhem Or Kingfish (Mackerel) Ambot-Tik Main Course: Choose From Bife Bafad Xacuti De Carneiro Sorpotel Chicken Vindaloo Cabidela De Pato Iscas Egg And Potato Curry Pudding: Rava Burfi

145

146

When setting out to prepare this tome, although to be honest it was never meant to be a tome, I was attempting to allow the timid house husband a chance to save a few quid and give his bride a cracking night in their own home by authentically imitating an ethnic cuisine, as an alternative to spending a fortune by booking in to the local country themed restaurant, and avoiding the “politizi” en route for home. All very well I hear you cry, however what about those special little places on our globe who’s cooking has yet to be attempted on our high streets. What about Goa? Sure, some of their amazing cooking heritage has been hijacked by the local “Indian”, but their cooking style that has developed from their Iberian colonists integrating with the native Hindu using their abundance of seafood and the huge variety of native spices-, mangos coconuts and all manner of exotic fruits to create a cuisine that is worthy of a special place here, even if you can not find a Goan restaurant not to take the old girl to dine. Most holiday makers have their first introduction to the delights of Goan food at a “beach shack” on the beach of their holiday resort. Many of these “shacks” are nothing of the sort (try Joet’s on Bogmalo beach) they employ trained local chefs and present their food to the highest standards, using ingredients that are so fresh they are often only hours old! To capture the full flavour of Goa you will need a supply of coconut, desiccated will do, green chillies, a good red wine vinegar and palm sugar if you can get it, if not muscavado is O.K., whilst you are out at your local spice supplier try and pick up some dried kokum.

147

Recipes Soup : John Martyin’s Agsal A Fiery Potion To Lift The Spirits Starters : Prawns Rawara Rum Soaked Prawns Fried In Coconut Fish : Kingfish ( Mackerel) Ambot-Tik Hot And Sour Fish Curry Shellfish : Crabs Sukhem Spicy Fried Crab Beef Veal : Bife Bafad Slow Cooked Beef Curry Lamb / Mutton : Xacuti De Carneiro The Goan Mutton Curry Pork : Sorpotel Pork And Its Liver Masala Game: Cabidela De Pato Chilli Duck With Capsicum Paste Sauce Chicken : Vindaloo Hot And Sour Chicken Curry Offal : Isdcas Stir Fried Pig’s Liver With Potato Sticks Veggie: Egg And Potato Curry Pudding: Rava Burfi Sweet Rice Nut Cakes

148

Soup

John Martin's Agsal

Locally Called Pepper Water, Rightly So !!

Assemble:

A small saucepan with lid A small frying pan A wooden spoon

Ingredients:

Goa

6 cloves of garlic peeled and ground with a little salt to paste Half a teaspoon of cumin powder Half a teaspoon of turmeric 6 dried red chillies slit (take the seeds out if you’re frightened!) Half a tablespoon full of coconut oil 2 medium white onions finely sliced 8 pieces of dried Kokum (off to the local Indian shop for this) Half a teaspoon of sugar Salt and black pepper to taste Water

Then you: •

Mix together the garlic, cumin, turmeric and six cups of water in a saucepan, and bring to the boil.

•

Lower heat and add chillies and simmer for ten minutes.

•

Heat the coconut oil in a small frying pan and sauté the onions until soft but not brown.

•

Add the onions, kocum, sugar and salt to the saucepan liquid and simmer till both the onions and kocum are limp, and the liquid is reduced to about four cups.

•

Don asbestos suit and serve with a fire extinguisher close by.

Captain heartbreak

149

Starter

Prawns Rawara

A trip into any Indian coastal fish market is an eye watering experience for the variety of things that are dredged from the deep is amazing. Placed on a small stone or slate slab is the days catch superintended by the fisherman’s female family – wife, Granny, daughter or granddaughter, all ready to haggle. From sharks to sea urchins, eels to sea snakes all are mouth-wateringly fresh and ready for your undivided attention and ready purchase, not packed in dry ice and shipped to some colourless market hall to be bulk purchased by processors and turned into “convenience food” convenient to whom I ask ? Enough ranting, just try and get your hands on some fresh uncooked prawns and try this little winner.

Ingredients:

12 medium sized fresh prawns – tigers are good 12 cloves of garlic 3 two inch pieces of fresh ginger A fresh lime A tot of dark rum (optional - but it’s oh so good) A fresh egg Oil for deep frying ½ a cup of semolina

We could get a puppy

Then you: •

Take the uncooked prawns, they should be blue grey in colour, de head and remove the shells, leaving the last tail piece of shell (for lifting to your hungry mouth)

•

With a sharp knife cut down the back of the prawn in a straight line to the end of the tail and remove the black “vein” and discard this as it’s the digestive tract and bitter to taste.

•

When the vein has been removed deepen the cut and place the prawn on a flat surface and press gently until the prawn is flat with the final tail piece of shell sticking upwards. It’s at this point you can pour over a tot of dark rum all over the prawns if you are so inclined (I am always inclined)

•

Into a bowl crush the garlic and ginger and blend together with the juice of the fresh lime until it is a smooth paste.

•

Cover all the prepared prawns with the paste ensuring that all are equally coated, then place in a fridge for two hours.

•

Heat the oil in your deep frying pan until it starts to move.

•

Put the beaten egg in a shallow dish and next to it a further shallow dish containing the semolina.

•

Take each prawn and dredge it in the beaten egg and then the semolina making sure it is completely covered then place in the hot oil and cook until the semolina is a rich golden brown.

•

When all are cooked take to the table with a half of a fresh lime on each plate wheeling a cane sugar grinder’s cart.

Goa

Assemble:

A large mixing bowl A garlic crusher 2 shallow dishes A wooden spoon A deep frying pan

150

Fish Dish

Ambot-Tik

Hot & Sour Fish Curry With fishing boat, or five, on every beach the Goan fisherman bring ashore the most amazing variety of fish every day. The difference in perceived local flavour gives hierarchy of value to each species and is sometimes used as a social thermometer of affluence between Goans – it is not uncommon to hear a Goan greet his neighbour by asking “what fish will you eat today?” This recipe betrays the Portuguese influence with the use of Goan vinegar, found also in Vindaloo and Balcheo dishes. Adjust the number of chillies if you wish to retain your taste buds!

Assemble:

A large heavy based frying pan A wooden spoon A sharp kitchen knife An electric coffee grinder

Goa

Ingredients:

2 medium sized fish fillets – this recipe is intended for any tight grain fish and is particularly suited to mackerel, however it’s your choice A tablespoon of vegetable oil 1 medium onion diced A teaspoon of tamarind essence dissolved in half a cup of water 4 dried Kokum or dried mango slices (back to the local spice shop) Salt and red wine vinegar to taste

For the Masala:

6 or less whole dried Kashmiri chillies 4 black peppercorns 4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed with salt 1 teaspoon of turmeric powder Half inch of fresh ginger peeled and thinly sliced Half a teaspoon full of cumin seeds

Then you: •

It’s best to make your own fresh masala mixture when attempting any Goan dish that calls for “gravy”, each one is different - or you could always use garam masala powder but it’s never the same, it’s just not yours.

•

Heat all the dry ingredients in a dry frying pan until you smell the cumin strongly.

•

Place all in an electric coffee grinder and reduce to a fine powder. Mix this powder with a little vinegar and tamarind water, until a thick paste is formed – this is your masala.

•

Cut the fish into slices leaving the skin on, and rinse in salted water, pat dry and then rub with the masala paste and leave for ten minutes.

•

Heat the oil in the heavy based frying pan and sauté the onions until they are just coloured.

•

Now add the masala paste, tamarind and kokum and bring to the boil, after simmering for ten minutes.

•

Now add the fish and cover with “gravy” and simmer until the fish is tender, about twenty minutes, add a little vinegar every five minutes, then serve with plain boiled rice in your brightest sarong pants with coconut palm cleaver at the ready.

151

Shellfish Dish

Crab Sukhem Spicy Fried Crab

The shellfish in Goa is extreme, huge prawns, tasty shrimps, lobster to die for and the tastiest crabs of all time, the Arabian Sea swimming crabs. This recipe is a delight of flavours and is not as good when using our North Sea crabs, so try and buy North Sea Green crabs,the smallish hen crabs are the sweetest, your fishmonger should be able to sort these out for you. Do not worry about the grey “dead man’s fingers”, the lungs of the crab –they will not poison, however they impart a bitter taste you should therefore take care to remove them when cleaning the beast. Remember all shellfish meat is hard won so be prepared for a longish night!

Ingredients:

2 medium sized fresh soft-shell crabs 2 medium onions peeled and coarsely chopped 1 heaped teaspoon red Kashmir chilli powder 1 teaspoon of turmeric 1 teaspoon of garam masala Half a cup of desiccated coconut moistened with a little water Half a teaspoon of palm sugar (or muscavado) Half a teaspoon of tamarind juice Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Then you: • •

Select a large sauce pan, capable of holding both crabs. Three quarters fill with hot water and bring to the boil. When water is at a rolling boil, using tongs put in both crabs and immediately put on the lid. Take out the crabs after no more than two minutes.

•

Take off crab claws and feet and remove the carapace by putting crab on its back and using both thumbs press upwards the rear of the crab carapace. Remove the grey feathery “dead man’s fingers” and reserve the shell and carapace.

•

With a Toffee hammer crack the claws with sharp blows taking care not to crush the meat inside. Give the feet sharp blows, and then split the body in two with a cleaver.

•

Put all the crab pieces including the main shell and its brown meat into the saucepan and add two cups of water, add the rest of the ingredients except the coconut and sugar, then bring to the boil, put on the pan lid and boil until the onion is tender.

•

Now add the coconut and sugar and stir to mix thoroughly, cover with pan lid and boil for a further five minutes.

•

•

Divide into two bowls and garnish with coriander. Make sure you have finger bowls and a cloth each for wiping your hands and a dish for the plundered shells. Serve wearing long beach shorts with Shiva tee shirt.

Goa

Assemble:

A deep saucepan A chopping board A meat cleaver A small “toffee” hammer

152

Marinade

Bafad Masala

As previously mentioned due to the lack of refrigeration most beef is sold the day after its slaughter and not hung to induce the flavour. The western fallacy that curry was invented to mask the taste of rotting meat is patently untrue, but stems from the lack of hanging. A special masala has been devised for newly slaughtered beef or mutton and is called Bafad masala. Here is the recipe for Bafad masala - aren’t we lucky!

Assemble:

An electric coffee grinder A small storage jar with lid A small thin rubber spatula

Ingredients:

Then you: •

Put all ingredients into a coffee grinder, or in proportion, and grind to a fine powder.

•

Store in an airtight jar labelled “Bafad Masala” – done!

•

Now let’s use your masala in this traditional slow cooked Bafad.

Goa

500g of dried red Kashmir chillies 25g of cinnamon 25g black pepper corns 25g of Turmeric powder 2 cups of coriander seeds 25g of cloves 1 ½ tablespoons of cumin seeds

The Meat’s so fresh I had to lock it up!”

153

Beef / Veal Dish

Bife Bafad

Slow Cooked Thick Beef Curry

Tradition dictates that this dish is prepared before the sun rises and is cooked all day to be eaten after the sun has set – give it a whirl.

Ingredients:

Half a pound of beef steak, rump is nice or skirt for authenticity, cut into cubes 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil 2 medium sized onions, chopped thickly 1 inch piece of fresh ginger with rind peeled 6 cloves of garlic peeled and chopped 2 medium sized tomatoes peeled, deseeded and pulped 1 heaped tablespoon full of “Bafad Masala”- your very own! 1 tablespoon full of red wine vinegar 2 white radishes cut into fingers

Then you: •

Heat the oil in the frying pan and when hot sauté the Onions, ginger and garlic until just turning brown. Now add the tomato pulp with just a pinch of sugar, your masala and a cup of water then bring to the boil and cook for ten minutes stirring often to prevent sticking.

•

Add the cubed beef and mix well into the masala, then add the vinegar and another cup of water and bring back to the boil. Now add the sliced radishes and a little salt.

•

Now you can either : Put a heat diffuser on your heat source, put the frying pan on with its lid, turn the heat down to about 100, or transfer to an oven proof casserole dish and leave in the oven at about 100, your choice, and then go out for a game of golf.

•

Check after about four hours, by then the gravy should be nice and thick, give it a stir and if it requires a little more thickening place on the cooker ring on a moderate heat and reduce stirring very carefully so as not to break the now tender beef.

•

Decorate with chopped coriander and serve towing a sacred cow wearing a worried frown, the cow not you.

Goa

Assemble:

A thick based saucepan with lid A heat diffuser An oven proof dish with lid

154

Lamb / Mutton Dish

Xacuti De Carneiro Mutton Curry

There is little tradition of sheep herding in Goa, with goats being the preferred flock and meat, however strangely the following recipe is held in pride of place in many Hindu households and is served at their major festivals, and even the Goan Christians recognize that their Hindu brother is supreme in the art of Xacuti de Carneiro- Mutton curry. Do not let the list of ingredients frighten you, the are all part of the dish and comprise elements for the marinade and the “masala”, just give yourself plenty of time, and decent bottle of red and follow step by step – its worth it for the explosion of flavours!

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A electric coffee grinder A mixing bowl

Ingredients:

Goa

About a pound of lamb, trimmed and cubed 10 dried red Kashmir chillies 3 medium onions peeled and coarsely chopped 3 cups full of desiccated coconut – or if you’re e being pedantic a fresh whole coconut, milk retained and shell removed 4 green chillies 6 cloves of garlic 2 inch piece of fresh ginger

Spices:

2 teaspoons of turmeric 8 cloves 3 inch cinnamons stick A tablespoon of cumin seeds A tablespoon of coriander seeds 4 peppercorns A tablespoon of caraway seeds 2 star anise “stars” A flake of mace or cassia bark 2 teaspoons of tamarind essence A bunch of fresh coriander

Then you: • Firstly you need to make the marinade for the lamb •

•

•

• •

•

•

and then the masala for its cooking. Blend together in the electric coffee grinder the chopped green chillies, garlic, ginger and half the chopped coriander leaves and a little salt. Now spread all over the lamb, ensuring all pieces are coated and leave to marinade for an hour. Now for the masala. In a heavy based pan place the red chilli flakes, turmeric powder, cloves, cinnamon, cumin seeds, coriander seeds ,peppercorns, star anise, caraway seeds and mace and apply heat, stirring until the seeds begin to “spit” and it starts to smell like an Indian “Ruby Murry “. Take from the heat and allow to cool, then place all in the electric blender and grind to a fine powder. Not too stressful, and you now have a Xacuti masala, so there! Lastly if you are using desiccated coconut put about half a pound in a mixing bowl and add boiling water then allow to stand. When cool press the coconut through a fine sieve retaining the liquid “milk” and fibre in separate dishes. Now you’ve done the hard yard, its time to get cooking done. Slice one of the onions and fry in hot oil until soft then add two heaped tablespoons full of the desiccated coconut fibre and fry until golden brown, allow to cool then grind in a blender to a paste. Heat the remaining oil in the frying pan and colour the remaining chopped onions and when golden add the marinated lamb stirring until all the lamb has a soft golden colour, now add the coconut and onion paste with one cup of water and transfer to the oven proof casserole dish, cover with lid and cook at 160 for an hour. Take from the oven and add the strained coconut “milk” then stir in the ground masala ensuring all is evenly distributed, now stir in the tamarind juice and place on the cooker and reduce until the “gravy” thickens ( nice and sticky). Transfer into warmed serving dish, sprinkle the remaining coconut fibre over and serve blowing a bread man’s horn.

155

Pork Dish

Sorpotel

Pork And It's Liver Masala

Yet another Portuguese legacy is the abundance of pigs to be found wandering about in every Goan village. Followed by what seems to be a never ending stream of piglets of all sizes and their rather fierce looking parents they are the subject of every tourist’s photo shoot. Unlike the more Islamic north , pork dishes feature on every Goan menu, some having a unique blend of Asian and European flavours- here’s one of my favourites which illustrates this admirably –

Ingredients:

Three quarters of a pound of pork, from the leg- untrimmed A thick slice of pig’s liver A large onion, peeled and cut into half rounds A teaspoon of dried, ground red chilli pepper ½ teaspoon of ground cumin seeds ½ teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper A 1 inch stick of cinnamon A large green pepper (capsicum) A pinch of ground cloves 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and ground to paste with a little salt 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil ½ a tablespoon full of tomato paste A teaspoon of sugar

Then you: •

Place the pork and liver in a saucepan cover them with water and add a little salt, then bring to the boil slowly. When boiled for two minutes take from the heat and allow to cool

•

When cool take the pork and liver from the pan and reserve the liquid.

•

Trim the pork of excess fat and rind and de-vein the liver, then cut into small cubes.

•

Mix all the spices in the vinegar, combine thoroughly and allow to stand.

•

Heat the oil in the frying pan and fry the onions, cut into half rounds, until just turning brown, then add the pork and liver cubes and fry until dry.

•

Now add the vinegar with the spices, and fry for five minutes, then add the tomato puree, with the stock reserved from the meats boiling, increase the heat and add the deseeded green peppers, cut into rounds, with the crushed garlic and season with salt.

•

Continue cooking until the “gravy” is thick and the meat is tender finally adding the sugar, stir well and cook for a further minute.

•

Transfer to warmed serving dish and serve wearing “I’m a little Goa” tee shirt.

Your round next

Goa

Assemble:

A medium saucepan and lid A heavy based frying pan A wooden spoon

156

Game Dish

Cabidela De Pato

Slow Cooked Duck With Chillies

The average Goan does not appear to have grasped the Western concept of blasting wild animals with a variety of weapons as a sport and as such I have seen little evidence of hunting – perhaps I am leading a sheltered life! Anyway they do have this wonderful Duck recipe which is held for high days and when its “show time” in the kitchen

Assemble:

An oven proof casserole dish with lid An electric coffee grinder

Ingredients:

Goa

2 breasts of duck with skin on 10 dried red peppers or three tablespoons full of paprika A teaspoon of turmeric A 2 inch piece of cinnamon A teaspoon of black peppercorns 6 cloves 4 crushed cloves of garlic 5 slit green chillies A medium onion A tablespoon of vinegar A tablespoon of pork fat

Then you: •

Naturally its grind the masala time. Place all the dry spices in the electric coffee grinder and grind to a fine powder - done!

•

Originally when the duck was caught it was forced to drink raw vinegar before it was slaughtered some two hours later. This is claimed to tenderize the flesh, anyway you’re spared this ordeal, as is your duck, by chopping the breasts into cubes with the skin on and allow to steep in a little vinegar and water for an hour – thank heavens for that, I hear you, and the duck, cry.

•

Heat the pork fat in the casserole dish and when hot fry the chopped onion until golden brown.

•

Drain the duck pieces from the vinegar marinade, and reserve the liquid, pat dry with kitchen paper and then fry over a hotish heat with the onions.

•

When all the duck has coloured and its skin started to darken add the ground masala powder and mix, making sure each duck piece is coated. Continue cooking until the duck feels tender.

•

Now add the vinegar marinade to which the tamarind essence has been added sufficient to cover the duck, reduce over heat until the gravy is the thickness and consistency you require.

•

Take to the table with red caste mark on forehead, you - not the duck!

157

Chicken Dish

Chicken Vindaloo

Goan villages are sprawling affairs with detached single story houses or huts as the norm, these can house up to three generations of family in what appears to be a well ordered and friction free domestic bliss. Naturally the home is surrounded by their own piece of “garden” so keeping chickens as well as pigs is par for the course. I have chosen Chicken Vindaloo out of the many delicious recipes that have evolved from their chicken husbandry, mainly because it has such a bad “rap” in England, where the true test of manhood is “twelve pints of larger and a “vindie” – and put a roll of Andrex in the deep freeze”. Make this as soft or as fiery as you care by adjusting the number and type of chillies you use.

Ingredients:

2 chicken breasts skin on and cubed 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar 2 teaspoons of tamarind essence in one cup of water 1 tablespoon of Palm sugar/ Jaggery / muscavado sugar 6 fresh red chillies, deseeded if you want it cooler 6 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed with a little salt 2 teaspoons of fresh cumin seeds ½ a teaspoon of turmeric powder 2 medium onions A 2 inch piece of ginger ½ a teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper, and salt 3 green chillies slit twice 4 tablespoons of clarified butter (it’s called gee)

Then you: •

As usual the first job is to prepare the “masala” paste. Here goes - grind all the dry spices with half the ginger, finely chopped and half the garlic crushed into a fine paste and then add the vinegar and blend to a thicker paste, a rather evil looking Vindaloo masala!.

•

Heat the “gee” in a heavy based frying pan and fry the chopped onions with the rest of the ginger and garlic until they just start to turn brown,

•

Now add the chicken pieces with the tamarind juice and slit green chillies, add a little salt and fry till the chicken takes a pale gold colour.

•

Now mix in the ground paste thoroughly and cover with water and reduce over a moderate heat until the gravy thickens and the chicken is tender. Now you can adjust the “bite” of the dish by adding a little more vinegar at a time until you shout “Yippee”

•

Separate into warmed serving dishes on a fluffy white boiled rice base.

•

Serve after announcing the call to dinner by opening up your first, but hopefully not your last, “Kingfisher” of the day.

Goa

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A wooden spoon

158

Offal Dish

Isdacs

Stir Fried Liver With Straw Potatoes

This liver dish is a great children’s favourite for, if you cut the liver into thin enough strips they look like Tiger’s whiskers, which you would be sure to remember if you had ever been close enough to a Tiger to judge the length of its whiskers.

Assemble:

A chopping board A sharp kitchen knife A mixing bowl A heavy based frying pan

Ingredients:

Goa

2 good strips of pig’s liver 6 cloves of garlic, peeled chopped and crushed with salt to a paste ½ a cup of fresh milk 2 heaped teaspoons of salt Vegetable oil for deep frying potatoes 2 tablespoons of dry white wine ½ a teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg ½ a teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper

Then you: •

Lay out the liver strips on the chopping board and trim off all tendons and veins, wash in salted water and then cut into really thin strips, no thicker than 1/8 of an inch

•

Mix the garlic, with the pepper and salt in a bowl and pour in the milk, when thoroughly mixed gently introduce the liver strips to marinade for two hours.

•

Peel and cut the potatoes into thin sticks- like the dreadful “fries” of fast food fame.

•

Rinse the potato sticks in salted water and pat dry with kitchen paper. Now sprinkle on a little oil and salt and leave for five minutes.

•

Heat the vegetable oil to just below smoking heat and deep fry the potato sticks quickly to a golden colour, then drain and reserve in warm oven.

•

Clean the frying pan of the potato oil and place two tablespoons full of fresh oil in the frying pan and bring to a high heat. Drain the liver sticks and place in the hot oil taking care not to break them, and stir fry for two to three minutes – do not over cook as this will toughen the liver.

•

When just cooked add the white wine to the pan and sprinkle the nutmeg over and adjust seasoning.

•

Place liver on a heated platter and decorate around with the potato sticks, serve wrapped in a fake tiger skin fur purring gently.

159

Vegetarian Dish

Egg And Potato Curry

With the abundance of fresh vegetables, coupled with some religious dogma it’s small wonder that a huge range of totally delicious vegetarian recipes abound, so much so that picking one seems not to do any justice the rest, so I have added a simply splendid cauliflower badji in the “starter” section for India, still I am confident that you will get maximum points for this egg curry.

Ingredients:

4 small fresh eggs ½ a cup of desiccated coconut 3 red chillies 1 medium onion peeled and grated 3 small cloves of garlic peeled and ground to a paste with salt A ½ inch piece of ginger A large beef tomato, blanched, peeled and deseeded, pulp retained A ½ teaspoon of ground cumin seeds ½ a tablespoon of coriander powder A pinch of turmeric powder A tablespoon of tamarind essence, diluted as instructed Salt and pepper to taste Fresh coriander leaves to garnish 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil A medium potato, peeled, parboiled and chopped A ½ cup of freshly shelled garden peas

Then you: •

As ever you have to prepare your spices before you can start cooking, so start by grinding all the spices and the coconut together to a fine powder and then blend to a paste with the diluted tamarind juice.

•

Heat the oil in a heavy based frying pan add the grated onion and fry until soft, and then add the chopped par boiled potato with the peas and fry for another five minutes.

•

Now add the tomato pulp and the ground paste mixing thoroughly, then add two cups of water and reduce the liquid by increasing the heat, taking care that the base of the mixture does not “catch”. When the liquid is quite firm make four small wells, evenly spaced in the mixture and crack an egg into each one.

•

Sprinkle a pinch of the ground spices into each egg and reduce the heat slightly and allow the eggs to cook until the whites are just firm. Take off the heat and with a fish slice place two eggs and surrounding “gravy” on warmed plates.

•

Decorate with cashew nuts and coriander leaves and take to the table by a yellow trickshaw.

Goa

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan An electric coffee grinder A mixing bowl

160

Pudding

Rava Burfi: Sweet Rice Nut Cakes

If the purpose of a pudding is to sweeten ones palate after a savoury main course, the Goans achieve this in the most simple, but effective way by placing a small bowl of coarse sugar mixed with caraway seeds on the table for everyone to take a teaspoon full and crunch their way to the most refreshing sweet flavour of aniseed – try it it’s very satisfying. However if you are a pudding person have a go at these sweetmeats either by themselves or with a little mango flavoured yoghurt.

Assemble:

A medium sized saucepan and lid A greased baking tray A palette knife

Ingredients:

Goa

1 cup of semolina 1 cup of clarified butter (Gee) 1 cup of finely grated coconut (desiccated and then ground) 1 cup of mil 2 cups of sugar A few pistils of saffron 1 tablespoon full of powdered cardamom seeds 10 of each – almonds, pistachios and cashew nuts

Then you: •

Grind the nuts coarsely and set aside.

•

Put the rest of the ingredients into the saucepan and thoroughly combine, and continue cooking until the mixture turns thick and leaves the side of the pan.

•

Pour and scrape the mixture into the greased baking tray and smooth to an equal depth with a wet palette knife, then sprinkle the ground nut mixture evenly over the top before marking through into small squares with a blunt knife.

• •

Allow to cool and store in an airtight container, it makes quite a lot but if you have grandchildren or sweet toothed dogs they won’t last a second! Serve after your triumphant main course in your coconut tree climbing gear, with a bright bandana.

Goa

161

A net profit on Goa

162

Your Little Kari House in

India

Your Menu

To Start: Chicken Mulligatawny Soup Or Phoolgobi Bajia Seafood: Keralan Fish Molee Or Sondhia Prawns Main Course: Choose From: Beef Biryani Kashmiri Lamb Pork Vindaloo Duck Masala Moghali Chicken Gurda Korma Kerala Mixed Vegetables Pudding: Honey Dosas

163

164

Just about everyone on the planet must have had the opportunity of eating an “Indian” meal, for it seems that every town with a population of over ten thousand can support both an Indian and Chinese restaurant. It’s an impossible task to embrace an entire sub continent’s culinary traditions in a set of menus, even having subtracted one state Goa, from the picture. I have tried to be as elective of all regions as possible and hope by trying a combination of the recipes, you may well experience the flavours that are so often missed by the frantic takeaway whose essence is speed over authenticity. The word “curry” did not exist in any of the spoken Indian languages when the British arrived, and the word “kari” was used by the Tamils to indicate a gravy or sauce – trust the Brits to get it wrong, so put away the Madras curry powder that has been the English focus on Indian cooking and lets get real -When you’re spice shopping you should buy, Jaggery ( a palm sugar) Asafoetida ( because of its smell it’s known as Devil’s dung) it makes a real contribution to the flavour intensity of any dish to which it is added, do not forget the Tamarind essence, cassia bark and fenugreek seeds. The kocum you bought for the Goan section should come in handy.

165

Recipes

Soup : Chicken Mulligatawny Raj Chicken Soup Starters : Phoolgobi Bajia Cauliflour Fritters Fish : Keralan Fish Molee Coconut Cod Curry Shellfish : Sondhia West Coast Spiced Prawns Beef / Veal : Beef Biryani Saffron Rice And Spicy Beef Lamb / Mutton : Kashmiri Lamb Warmish Diced Lamb Pork : Pork Vindaloo The Definitive Goan Curry Game : Duck Masala A Gentle And Mildish Curry Chicken : Moghlai Chicken Spiced And Fruity Chicken Offal : Gurda Korma Curried Kidneys Vegie : Kerala Mixed Vegetables Spicy Mixed Vegetables Pudding : Honey Dosas Ground Rice And Split Pea Pancakes

166

Soup

Chicken Mulligatawny Soup Spicy Chicken Soup

Where better to start but the good old British Raj favourite of Chicken Mulligatawny soup that has found its way onto menus worldwide, it was once even in the 57 of a famous variety.

Assemble:

A large saucepan and lid A small frying pan A slotted spoon

Ingredients:

India

About a pound of boneless, skinned chicken, cut into bite size pieces ½ a cup of red lentils A large potato peeled and diced 4 green cardamom pods, crushed A 2 inch piece of cinnamon ½ a teaspoon of ground coriander ½ a teaspoon of ground turmeric 2 cloves of garlic peeled and creamed with a little salt 1 medium onion peeled and finely chopped 1 medium onion peeled and cut into rings A tablespoon of coconut cream The juice of two fresh lemons 4 curry leaves

Then you: •

Place the diced chicken in the pan and add three cups of water till covered, add a little salt, bring to the boil then put on the lid and adjust the heat to simmer for about one hour.

•

Skim the surface of the liquid and then remove the chicken pieces with a slotted spoon and reserve in a warm oven.

•

Now add the red lentils to the stock, bring to the boil, cover with the lid and simmer for about half an hour or until the lentils are tender.

•

Add the potato pieces and bring to the boil again and cover with the lid and simmer for a further twenty minutes.

•

Now add the spice ingredients, with the crushed garlic and coconut cream and simmer for twenty minutes, then strain, reserving the liquid back to the pan.

•

Pick out all the spice pieces of cinnamon and curry leaves then return the lentil and potato to the stock, now add the warmed chicken and lemon juice, adding a little water if too thick for your taste, and reheat.

•

In the small frying pan add a little oil and fry the onion rings until they are golden brown and then garnish the soup tureen with this and a few pieces of lemon zest.

•

Serve with two of your neighbours stripped to the waist fanning you with peacock feathers.

167

Starter

Phoolgobi Bhajia Cauliflower Fritters

The standard accompaniments in any Indian restaurant are Poppadoms and “onion budgiewiv art the fevers mate” not so often offered are these delicious cauliflower Bhajias. Cauliflower is a favourite vegetable amongst the vegetarian population and appears in many vegetarian dishes as a solo complete with cumin sauce and dried prawns, but that’s another story.

Ingredients:

½ a very white tight cauliflower, cut into florets, having no thick stalks Sunflower oil for frying

For the batter:

4oz of gram flour, that is ground chick pea flour nothing else works! 1 teaspoon of Kashmir red chilli powder 1 teaspoon of turmeric powder 1 teaspoon of cumin seeds 1 teaspoon of fenugreek powder 2 tablespoons of fresh coriander A large pinch of bicarbonate of soda Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Then you; •

Make a thick batter using all the batter ingredients mixed in sufficient water, best to add a little at a time till you get the thickness you require.

•

Whisk with vigour to introduce as much air as possible into the batter, this will pay dividends in the lightness of the cooked batter.

•

Heat sufficient vegetable oil in the deep frying pan to cover the florets and when it just starts to smoke, dip each floret into the batter using a pair of tongs, coat thoroughly and introduce to hot oil, put into two or three at a time, and then turn down the heat to allow the cauliflower to cook and the batter to turn a crisp golden brown,

•

•

Take out cooked bhajais and turn up the heat to smoking and repeat as step two, until all is safely gathered in, separate onto serving dishes. Serve with any spicy chutney wearing your Mahatma Gandhi dhoti.

Do you know Vivie

India

Assemble:

A deep mixing bowl A hand whisk A deep frying pan

168

Fish Dish

Keralan Fish Molee Fish And Coconut Curry

As the sub continent appears to be a huge thick finger pointing into the sea it’s hardly surprising that all of the coastal states have developed their own recipes for which ever fish is most abundant using their locally produced ingredients. This is exemplified by the following recipe from Kerala a state on the west coast of India that stretches all the way down to be opposite Sri Lanka., This is also known as “The Spice State” as much of the cultivation is devoted to the production of all manner of spices which scents every breeze as you meander up the many waterways in your houseboat. The true fish for this dish is Kingfish but any firm fleshed round fish such as mackerel will do

Assemble:

A heavy based frying pan A mixing bowl A whisk

Then you:

India

•

Heat the oil in a large heavy based frying pan and fry the onions until soft and then add the crushed garlic, ginger and chilli and fry for a further five minutes, stirring gently.

•

Place the coconut cream in a bowl, add a little of the coconut milk then whisk in the flour a little at a time until you have a creamy paste, nice and smooth.

•

Add the coconut paste mixture to the frying pan mixing thoroughly and bring to the boil, then lower the temperature so the mixture just simmers.

•

Now add the turmeric and tomato pulp and stir until the mixture has a texture of pouring cream, you may need to add a little more coconut milk to achieve the texture you require.

•

Now add the mackerel pieces and cover with the “gravy”, put on the pan lid and allow to poach for about ten minutes over a medium heat, check and if the sauce is too thick, thin with a little coconut milk. Plate onto warmed dishes and garnish with a sprinkle of desiccated coconut.

•

Serve doing your Peter Sellers imitation of “Goodness gracious me” hinting at how like Sophia Loren you beloved is looking tonight.

Ingredients:

2 medium sized mackerel, gutted beheaded and tailed, then cut into steaks, about an inch thick 4 tomatoes, blanched peeled and deseeded with pulp retained A medium onion peeled and finely sliced 2 cloves of garlic, peeled chopped and creamed with a little salt A two inch piece of ginger peeled and grated A small green chilli sliced Half a cup of coconut cream and half a cup of coconut milk A tablespoon of plain flour A teaspoon of turmeric 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mines bigger than yours

169

Shellfish Dish

Sondhia

West Coast Spiced Prawns

So having successfully wooed your lovely with a fish Molee, it might be a good time to go for the kill with this classic Sondhia – a prawn delight whose degree of hotness you can adjust, up or down, with quantity of the dried Kashmiri chilli powder and the fresh green chilli. By the way this little number works equally well with lobster, if it’s her, or better still your, birthday!

Ingredients:

A pound of large fresh prawns, shell on A teaspoon of dried red Kashmir chillies A teaspoon of ground cumin seed 2 teaspoons of turmeric 3 cloves of garlic, peeled, diced and creamed with a little salt 3 green chillies, finely chopped The juice of two fresh lemons 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil Salt and pepper to taste

Then you: •

•

• • • •

• •

Firstly you have to “dress” or undress the prawns. Remove the heads with a quick twist and reserve in a small sauce pan. Remove the shells from the body leaving the last tiny bit at the end of the tail; put these shells in with the heads in the saucepan. Now add a little salt and a touch of lemon juice and add two cups of water to the pan and bring to a rolling boil, then turn down to simmer for half an hour. When cool sieve out the shells and discard reserving the liquid. Hold a prawn in your left hand with the back of the prawn facing you, then make a small incision with the point of a sharp knife along the length of the prawn from head to tail. This will expose a black ribbon ,the length of the prawn and is its digestive tract, remove this with the tip of the knife taking care to remove all, as if left it can sour the dish. Reserve the shelled prawns in a mixing bowl. Now combine the chilli powder, cumin, turmeric, and garlic, salt and green chillies and add just enough lemon juice to make a thickish paste. Rub the paste into the peeled prawns carefully, to ensure all are equally covered. Set aside for one hour to allow the mixture to penetrate the prawn flesh. Heat the oil in a large heavy based frying pan, and reduce to a low heat. Place the prawn and its mixture lightly into the oil, ensuring all the mixture is added, and simmer for five minutes, turning occasionally, until the prawns have turned a delicate pink Then add the reserve prawn shell liquid a little at a time with the remaining lemon juice, and cook gently for a further ten minutes. Separate into serving dishes and serve wearing your Sabu the elephant boy turban, having parked you elephant in the bay provided.

India

Assemble:

A medium mixing bowl A wooden spoon A small saucepan and lid A large frying pan

170

Beef / Veal Dish

Beef Biryani

Considering the huge amounts of suicidal Indian cattle you encounter in the fast lane of your local motorway in India it’s surprising that there is not more beef on the local menus, that is until you recognize them as sacred – they must be under some divine protection to survive the manic Indian motorist. For those who regard the cattle with a hungry eye the beef is of a class on its own. Because of the temperatures most beef is slaughtered and butchered one day and put on sale the next, hanging in temperatures of over one hundred degrees is not an option. This recipe however contrives to mix meat and fruit and is perhaps one of the most tasty beef dish in any Indian cooks’ repertoire, it’s also one of the few that does not rely on a “gravy” for its impact.

Assemble:

A large mixing bowl A large casserole dish and cover A small saucepan A wooden spoon A garlic crusher

India

Ingredients:

1 pound of good rump steak, trimmed and cut into one inch cubes 2 medium onions peeled and finely sliced 4oz of butter 2 tablespoons of salt A pinch of saffron strands 2 cups of milk 6oz of white basmati rice cooked “al dente” 2oz of blanched and toasted almonds 2oz of plump sultanas

Then you: •

Prepare the marinade for the beef in a large mixing bowl. Firstly crush the garlic then the ginger in the crusher, then add the chillies, cumin, ground coriander, gram masala and yoghurt and combine with a wooden spoon. When all is combined add the cubed beef and stir to ensure each piece is thoroughly coated, cover the bowl with cling film and leave in the fridge for at least three hours or overnight is you can, the longer the better as the beef will respond with more flavour.

•

Place the oven proof casserole on the stove and melt the butter, when hot fry the onions until they are golden brown then reserve to a warming dish.

•

•

In the small saucepan bring the milk to blood heat and then add the saffron fronds and allow to infuse for half an hour. When the meat is sufficiently tender stir in the browned onions and salt and pepper to taste.

•

In a shallow oven proof dish spread a thin equal layer of part cooked basmati rice then spread over this a layer of the cooked beef - repeat this layering rice and beef finishing with the last of the rice. Drizzle the saffron milk over the rice and cover with a piece of greaseproof paper and return to the oven and cook for a final half an hour.

•

Remove from the oven and sprinkle over the top with the toasted almonds and sultanas take to the table with a D.V.D. of “Slumdog Millionare” under your arm (for afters).

For the marinade:

4 green chillies, deseeded and chopped A one inch piece of ginger, peeled and crushed 3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed 2 teaspoons of ground cumin seeds 1 teaspoon of ground coriander 1 heaped teaspoon of freshly prepared garam masala ¼ of a pint of thick yoghurt

Add the beef yoghurt mixture to the casserole and cook vigorously for five minutes stirring constantly, then add three cups of water to cover the beef and cook in the oven at 180 for two hours or until beef is tender.

171

Lamb / Mutton Dish

Kashmiri Lamb Lamb Curry

The more Northern of the 25 states that comprise this sub continent have a climate which encourages the keeping of livestock in their lowland areas, and it is here you will find the sweetest lamb (and the oldest mutton!). Strangely the flavour of the lamb comes through all the spices in this traditional Kashmiri dish. The red colour gives it a “fierce” look that its flavour does not deliver, unless you over do the magic red powder, that is ground Kashmiri chillies.

Then you: •

Place the cubed lamb in a saucepan, sprinkle over with turmeric and cover with water, about a pint, put on the lid, bring to the boil and simmer for about an hour or until the lamb is tender to a fork. When cool sieve off the lamb, and reserve both the liquid and the lamb separately.

•

Mix together the chilli powder, paprika, fennel and ginger and blend to a paste with a few tablespoons full of water, if the mixture is not red enough for you, add a little red food colouring – its what your local “Indian” does.

•

In the heavy based frying pan heat the oil to a medium heat and then add the crushed cardamom, cinnamon, and paprika paste and cook gently for about five minutes, stirring often.

•

Now add the reserved stock from the lamb and boil to reduce by half.

•

Add the reserved cooked lamb to the saucepan and sieve in the reduced liquid to cover. Add the remaining lemon juice, put on the lid and simmer for about twenty minutes, if you require the “gravy” thicker remove the lid, turn up the heat and reduce till you have the thickness you require.

•

Place into serving dish with cooked basmati rice wearing your Pandit Nehru little white hat with your collarless grey jacket, and serve.

Ingredients:

About two pounds of spring lamb trimmed and diced into one inch cubes ½ a teaspoon of turmeric 1 teaspoon of dried Kashmiri chilli powder A good pinch of fennel seeds 2 tablespoons of paprika A one inch piece of fresh ginger peeled and finely sliced 3 whole black cardamom pods, crushed An inch of cinnamon stick 1 tablespoon full of fresh lemon juice

•

India

Assemble:

A heavy based saucepan and lid A heavy based frying pan A sieve A wooden spoon A mixing bowl

172

Pork Dish

Pork Vindaloo

A Spice And Sour Pork Curry

The use of pork is restricted by the religious convictions of the majority of the population in which ever state you are in. The West Coast has the greatest concentration of Christian tradition and it is in these states that pork is likely to be husbanded and therefore appears on local restaurant’s menus. This recipe rightly should have been in the Goa section; however there are slight variations which allow me to include this Pork Vindaloo as a classic Indian dish.

Assemble:

An electric coffee grinder A small frying pan A medium sized heavy based frying pan

India

Ingredients:

A pound of trimmed pork cut into half inch cubes 3 tablespoons of strong vinegar A teaspoon of tamarind essence A tablespoon of brown sugar 9 dried red Kashmir chillies 6 cloves of garlic, peeled, and creamed with a little salt A teaspoon of cumin seeds ½ a teaspoon of turmeric powder A 2 inch piece of peeled ginger ½ a teaspoon of black pepper corns 4 fresh green chillies slit twice 3 medium onions peeled and diced 4 tablespoons of clarified butter 2 teaspoons of green cardamom seeds

Then you: •

As usual your first job is to make the “masala”. Grind together half the garlic, half the ginger, cumin seeds, cardamoms, and peppercorns, when you have a fine powder mix in a bowl with the vinegar until you have a thick reddish brown paste.

•

Mix the paste with the pork cubes so all are coated then leave for an hour to marinade.

•

Heat the clarified butter (ghee) in the larger frying pan, add the diced onions, the rest of the garlic and ginger and fry until a light golden brown

•

Now combine the marinated pork and its paste with the tamarind essence, and turmeric and fry gently turning with a wooded spoon until all is thoroughly mixed.

•

Add as much water as to just cover the pork and cook until the pork is just tender, then add the slit green chillies, brown sugar and cook further until the pork is tender to a fork, reduce the “gravy” or add more vinegar if required.

•

Serve with a flourish from a jewelled howdah on a freshly washed Elephant.

173

Game Dish

Duck Masala

Once again Duck takes centre stage, for the sweetness of its meat and the texture when cooked make it a perfect vehicle for a feast fit for your queen or in context your memsahib – they both shorten to Marm so you can be nicely deferential if you chose. The English Greesham duck breasts are perfect for this recipe; I like to score the underside flesh with a sharp knife to let all the spices into the meat. Prepare for paradise – let’s get cooking.

Then you: •

Melt the clarified butter in a large heavy based saucepan, when hot add the duck skin side down and fry on this side for about ten minutes or until the skin is evenly brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve on a warming plate.

•

Now add the mustard seeds and put on the pan lid as they “pop”, when all have “popped” add the onions and fry until they are golden brown, then add garlic and ginger and green chilli and fry for a further five minutes, stirring constantly.

•

Put all the masala ingredients into the electric coffee grinder and reduce to a fine powder, pour into a mixing bowl, add the vinegar and mix until you have a thick paste.

•

Add the masala paste to the saucepan with the onion mixture and fry for about five minutes, stirring often.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons of clarified butter 2 duck breasts, skin on with the underside scored with four cuts 1 teaspoon of mustard seeds 2 medium onions peeled and diced 2 garlic cloves peeled and diced A 2 inch piece of ginger peeled and finely sliced A fresh green chilli finely chopped A cup of coconut milk

For the Masala:

1 teaspoon of ground cumin seed 1 teaspoon of red chilli powder 1 tablespoon of chopped coriander 1 tablespoon of garam Masala 1 teaspoonful of turmeric 3 tablespoons of red wine vinegar

•

Now add the reserved duck breasts flesh side down and cook for five minutes over a medium heat, then cover the duck completely with the masala and fry for a further five minutes on the skin side.

•

The coconut milk should now be added then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, put on the pan lid and allow to simmer for an hour. You might find it helpful to use a heat diffuser if using an electric hob.

•

When the gravy is thick and the duck tender, and you just can not wait any longer, plate onto separate dishes and serve having applied your floral henna pattern between your eyes taking care not to smudge your eye shadow.

India

Assemble:

A large saucepan and lid A slotted spoon An electric coffee grinder A small mixing bowl

174

Chicken Dish

Moghlai Chicken

Braised Chicken With Creamy Spice And Fruit Gravy

Chickens are cooked all over India with a staggering array of different ingredients and thus makes choosing a definitive dish the subject of much debate, however this dish of Mogul celebration chicken combines all the essential elements of spice and flavour and then adds a creamy fruit and nut finish, for that wow factor.

Assemble:

An oven proof casserole dish with lid A mixing bowl A wooden spoon

India

Ingredients:

2 chicken joints, breast or thigh – you chose, but keep skin on 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil An ounce of unsalted butter About 8 oz of thick plain yoghurt 5 green cardamom pods, crushed with the flat of a knife 5 whole cloves 2 inch stick of cinnamon, or cassia bark A teaspoon of ground cumin seeds ½ a teaspoon of dried red chillies A bay leaf An ounce of blanched almonds with skin off An ounce of plump raisins Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Then you: •

Heat your oven to 180.

•

Sprinkle salt and black pepper over the chicken joints and allow to stand for five minutes

•

Heat the oil in the oven proof casserole and then add the butter, when melted add the crushed cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaf and allow to cook for two minutes stirring gently.

•

Add one piece of chicken and brown both sides under a medium heat, take out and reserve on a warm plate. Now brown the remaining chicken joint and reserve with the other.

•

Mix the yoghurt, cumin and chilli with a sprinkle of salt, ensuring all is combined.

•

Add the yoghurt mixture to the casserole and then the reserved chicken. Finally add the blanched almonds and raisins and stir to thoroughly mix, then put on the lid and bake in the pre heated oven for about forty minutes, having turned the chicken once.

•

Transfer onto warmed plates and serve with a further sprinkle of almonds in your Bengal lancers uniform – dress of course with medals and decorations.

No I have not seen Fido.

175

Offal Dish

Gurda Korma Curried Kidneys

Kidneys and liver are prized “tasty bites” amongst the meat eating Indians in the north and are served to honoured guests as a special treat, when you have tasted this simple recipe you will understand why it’s a good thing to be an honoured guest.

Ingredients:

6 lambs kidneys, halved and the centres “cored” (removed) A small green pepper deseeded and finely sliced A tablespoon of butter 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil A ½ inch piece of peeled fresh ginger A garlic clove, peeled and creamed with a little salt A medium onion peeled and diced A pinch of hot red chilli powder A pinch of turmeric A teaspoon of ground coriander A pinch of fresh cumin seed ground

Then you: •

Heat the oil in the frying pan and when hot add the butter and when melted stir. Now add the ginger and garlic paste and fry for half a minute.

•

Add diced onions and fry until they are soft but not brown.

•

Stir into the onions the chilli powder, turmeric, coriander and cumin then stir well.

•

Now add the kidneys and stir so as to ensure they are coated all over with the mixture.

• •

Fry the kidneys for about fifteen minutes stirring occasionally. When the kidneys are just faintly pink inside they are ready to serve. Divide onto serving plates and decorate with the sliced green pepper, don your thumb cymbals and sashay and sway to the table with the dish held over your head.

Trident a deterrent?

India

Assemble:

A large heavy based frying pan. A wooden spoon

176

Vegetarian Dish

Kerala Mixed Vegetables

Both religious and bare necessity contribute to the great bulk of the Indian population who are vegetarians, although almost none of them would recognize this as a social distinction, which it has become in the West. The abundance of freshly cultivated vegetables provide a staple and healthy diet, and when cooked with their equally abundant spices make a culinary treat which is both delightful to the taste buds and the eyes. These dishes are equally welcomed by carnivores as an accompaniment to any Indian meal. Here is one such recipe from Madras.

Assemble:


Ingredients:

India

3 tablespoons of vegetable oil A pound of potatoes peeled and chopped into one inch cubes A large aubergine, blanched and cut into one inch cubes 6 courgettes trimmed and thickly sliced 4oz of green beans, topped and tailed, cut to one inch pieces 4 large tomatoes, blanched, peeled, deseeded and the pulp retained 2 cups of coconut milk A cup of vegetable stock (or dissolved cube) 2 cloves of garlic crushed and creamed with a little salt 6 spring onions sliced 3 tablespoons of freshly ground coriander A tablespoon of cumin seed, freshly ground A teaspoon of turmeric A good pinch of red chilli powder A one inch piece of fresh ginger peeled

Then you: •

Heat the oil in the large saucepan and when hot add the garlic, ginger, spring onions and the spices. Cook for about five minutes stirring often.

•

When the ginger, garlic and spring onions are thoroughly cooked, add the potatoes and aubergine and cook for three minutes, then stir in the courgettes and beans, cook for a further five minutes before adding the tomato pulp.

•

Now add the coconut milk and vegetable stock, stir well and cover with the pan lid and cook for twenty minutes, or until each vegetable is tender.

•

Remove the lid and cook for a further ten minutes to reduce the sauce, then transfer to a serving dish, garnish with coriander.

•

Take to the table with your snake charmers flute and a mysterious circular lidded hamper.

177

Pudding

Honey Dosas Rice Pancakes

Puddings as such are not part of the average Indian menu and to accommodate the sweet toothed amongst their guests, or family, have a small dish full of raw caraway seeds that have been coated in brightly coloured sugar. Guests help them selves via a small spoon and munch happily getting their sugar “fix” and having the added benefit of a clean aniseed flavoured palate and an excellent aid to digestion. However these rice pancakes coated with honey are sometimes offered, they require time to prepare but try them and you will see they are worth the wait.

Ingredients:

9zo of white long grained rice 3oz of white split peas A pinch of salt Butter paper for greasing pan

Then you: •

Rinse the rice and white split peas in running water, then place in a bowl and cover with cold water and allow to soak for six hours then drain and pat dry with kitchen towel.

•

Put the rice and split peas into a blender and add about a cup of water and whiz to a paste, then turn out into a bowl.

•

•

A last its time to cook. Thin down the batter in the bowl with water until you have the consistency of single cream.

•

Grease the frying pan with the butter paper, and a little oil if required and heat the pan to a medium heat.

•

Now pour into the hot pan about three or four tablespoons full of the batter and swirl around to have an even thickness or move with circular movements with the base of a soup spoon.

•

Cover then pan with foil or a lid and cook until the bottom of the pancake is golden, when so turn the pancake over and cook until this side is equally golden. Remove and store separated with butter paper, cooking the rest of the mixture as before.

•

Spread a little butter on a hot Dosa and dribble over with runny honey.

•

A sugar daddy

Add a little water at a time to the paste in the bowl until it becomes a thick batter. Cover with cling film and leave overnight in a warm place to ferment.

Serve with a huge smile and a neat bit of cord work on the Sitar, unless it’s only a young one – just a baby sitar!

India

Assemble:

A mixing bowl A food processor A non stick frying pan

178

Your Street Corner Chop Cart in

Thailand Your Menu

To Start: Thai Style Chicken Soup Or Thai Fish Cakes Seafood: Thai Spice Marinated Sea Trout. Or Seared Scallops With Spring Onions. Main Course: Choose From Stir Fried Beef With Cashew Nuts Minted Lamb Patties Lemon Grass Pork Chicken Satay Garlic Roasted Quail With Honey Braised Oxtail In Spicy Sauce Coconut Vegetables Pudding: Sangkaya Faktong

179

180

Thai cooking is making a significant impact on the high street restaurant business, beginning to rival both the Chinese and the Indian. The Thai people are a delicate and gentle folk whose politeness and charm endear them to all when met in the local Thai restaurants or better still in their homeland. The early hippies ”discovered” Thailand en route to and from Australia and brought back tales of wonderful beaches and fab food served by smiling Thai, all for pence – enough to encourage Ma and Pa to pop over and take a look, come back and rave about it in the golf club – thus doing the local travel agents a big favour. Now Thailand and its many coastal resorts is firmly on the tourist holiday map, and its cuisine being a subtle melding of Chinese and Indian flavours now established as a distinctive dining experience – so try dining out with this selection of authentic Thai dishes whilst staying in ! Things that you might need for your store cupboard; Galangal root (a mild form of ginger), lemon grass and Thai chillies for authentic flavour. You will, I hope have your Wok all cleaned and polished ready for action.

181

Recipes Soup : Thai Style Chicken Soup Starter : Thai Fish Cakes Fish: Thai Spice Marinated Sea Trout Shellfish : Seared Scallops With Spring Onions Beef / Veal. : Stir Fried Beef With Cashew Nuts Lamb / Mutton : Minted Lamb Patties Pork : Lemon Grass Pork Game : Garlic Roasted Quails With Honey Chicken : Chicken Satay Offal : Braised Oxtail In Spicy Sauce Vegie : Coconut Vegetables Pudding : Sangkaya Fak Thong Egg Custard In Pumpkin

182

Soup

Thai Style Chicken Soup

The Thai style of cooking relies on holding flavours in a clear liquid, unlike the Indian whose love of “gravy” makes his food so distinct. So when confronted with Thai food and it’s transparent or “thin” looking base, be not disappointed, just dig in and the flavours will smack you between the eyes!

Assemble:


Ingredients:

Thailand

A tablespoon of vegetable oil 1 Thai chilli (orange or purple) deseeded and finely chopped 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and creamed with a little salt A medium sized fresh leek, well washed then finely sliced 2 cups of chicken stock, or a cube dissolved in water 2 cups of coconut milk 2 small breasts of chicken, skin off, finely chopped. 2 tablespoons of Thai fish sauce (or Chinese) 1 stalk of lemon grass split A one inch piece of galangal root peeled and crushed (if not use ginger but only half) A tablespoon of sugar 2 kaffir lime leaves 2 tablespoons of frozen petite pois peas 2 tablespoons of chopped coriander

Then you: •

Heat the oil in the large saucepan over a medium heat, then add the chillies and garlic and cook for about two minutes. Now add the chopped cleaned leek and fry for a further three minutes, stirring often.

•

Add the stock and coconut milk into the pan and bring to the boil, then reduce and allow to simmer for five minutes.

•

Now add the chicken, fish sauce, lemon grass, galangal root(ginger?), sugar and lime leaves and reduce the heat slightly, cover with the saucepan lid and cook for twenty minutes or until the chicken is tender.

•

Finally add the petite pois with the chopped coriander and cook without the lid for a further three minutes.

•

Remove the lemon grass and serve wearing batik silk sarong with wooden sandals keeping the sand off the carpet.

183

Starter

Thai Style Fish Cakes

The street vendors with their mobile “kitchen” produce some mouth watering tasty bites to tempt you when ever you feel peckish, or even if you just can not resist trying them. This is one of those “tasty bites” that work wonderfully well as a starter, with simple dipping sauces.

Ingredients:

4oz of fresh smoked haddock – not the dyed yellow stuff 4oz of fresh cod A small Thai chilli deseeded and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves peeled and chopped 1 stalk of lemon grass, chopped 2 large spring onions finely chopped A tablespoon of Thai fish sauce 2 tablespoons of coconut cream 2 tablespoon of coriander 2 tablespoons of corn flour Enough oil for deep frying Dipping sauces as required 2 large fresh eggs, lightly beaten

Then you; •

Dice the fish to ensure that all bones have been removed and place in the food processor.

•

Add all the other ingredients except the beaten eggs and coriander, to the food processor and blend thoroughly until all the fish is blended with the spices.

•

Now add the beaten eggs and chopped coriander and blend for a further two minutes, until you have a firm paste.

•

Scrape out the paste into a mixing bowl, cover with cling film and store in the fridge for an hour to allow the mixture to infuse and firm.

•

Coat your dry hands with corn flour then take a tablespoon full of the cooled mixture and place it in the palm of your hand and gently roll into a ball. When formed finally, roll in on a plate covered with corn flour to totally coat the ball then gently press into a round shaped Pattie. Repeat this until all mixture is used.

•

Put sufficient vegetable oil in the saucepan as will cover the fish Patties when introduced, and heat to a high heat until the surface of the oil moves. Now add one fish Pattie and if it immediately starts to “fizz” and move in the oil, the oil is ready for deep frying. Fry all the patties, four or five at a time for five minutes or until golden brown, taking care when you turn them not to break them.

•

When cooked reserve onto a warmed plate covered with kitchen towel to absorb any surplus oil. Garnish with chopped coriander and place on a banana leaf with your chosen dipping sauces, and then serve in brightly coloured beach shorts down below your knees.

Thailand

Assemble:

A food processor A large mixing bowl A flexible spatula A slotted spoon A saucepan for deep frying

184

Fish Dish

Thai Spice Marinaded Salmon

With the number of fishing boats you see when in Thailand you wonder that there is any fish left to catch – fear not as if by magic each morning as they return from the night’s labours the fishing boats crew are all smiles as they proudly disgorge the nights catch. As if that was not enough, fish farming has become a major source of income to the Thai economy with Thai tiger prawns appearing on most fresh fish counters throughout the world. I have resisted giving you a recipe for tiger prawns but have chosen to let you into this little known Thai take on Gravadlax, using farmed salmon or sea trout.

Assemble;

Thailand

A mixing bowl A wooden spatula and wooden bread board A shallow dish Heavy weights (full paint tins are good)

Then you: • •

Run the back of a knife over the scale side of the fillets to remove any loose scales then run under a cold tap and pat dry with kitchen roll. Check for any remaining bones and remove with a pair of tweezers (if you use the old girl’s eyebrow tweezers make sure she doesn’t know!)

•

A 1 pound tail piece of salmon or sea trout, filleted into two 4 tablespoons of coarse sea salt 4 tablespoons of dark sugar – muscavado if possible

Put all for the other ingredients into a mixing bowl and thoroughly mix into a coarse even coloured paste. Cover the bowl with cling film and leave to infuse in a fridge for two hours.

•

Using a wooden spatula spread about one quarter of the mixture onto the bottom of the shallow dish, then place one of the fillets on top, skin side down.

•

For the marinade:

•

Now spread half of the mixture onto the exposed flesh side of the fish and then put the other fillet on top flesh to flesh.

Ingredients:

A 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated 2 stalks of lemon grass, outer leaves removed until you get to the clear fresh part 4 kaffir lime leaves, shredded not chopped The grated rind of one fresh lime A fresh Thai chilli, orange or purple, deseeded and finely chopped A heaped teaspoon of coarsely ground black pepper 2 tablespoons full of coriander chopped finely

Spread the remaining quarter of the mixture onto the exposed scale side of the second fillet and gently cover with a wooden bread board.

•

Ensure the board does not reach the side of the dish and place your heavy weights on top of the board so as to apply even pressure. Leave in a cool place lightly covered with a clean tea towel for one week turning over the whole fish each day and repositioning the weights so as to provide even pressure.

•

To serve place one fillet flesh side up on the cleaned bread board and slice as thinly as possible just as if it where a smoked salmon side, saw carving at a 45 degree angle.

•

Serve on cooled plates with a spiced mayonnaise making sure you have your bamboo coolie hat on at a jaunty angle.

185

Shellfish Dish

Seared Galangal Scallops With Spring Onions One of the best shellfish to accept the delicate flavouring of Thai spices is the scallop, although it’s a close run thing with the wonderful swimming crabs just taking my second place. Another nice thing about this dish is that it only takes seconds to cook –“it’s just a little thing I rustled up darling”

Then you; • •

Ingredients:

6 freshly cleaned scallops complete with yolks 4 spring onions sliced, on the diagonal, into one inch pieces A tablespoon of chopped fresh garlic A tablespoon of galangal root peeled and finely chopped. If not use slightly less fresh peeled ginger root A tablespoon of Thai orange chilli deseeded and finely chopped A tablespoon of carrot cut into fine “julienne” strips A large green pepper deseeded and cut into fine strips as above 2 teaspoons of dark soy sauce

Heat the oil in the wok until its surface starts moving. Add the whole scallops one at a time and sear turning over often to ensure an even cooking. When the white part of the scallop has just turned fully opaque, and just starting to colour light brown remove and reserve to a warmed plate. Remember – the more and higher you heat protein the harder it gets – and you don’t want hard scallops do you?

•

Turn up the heat and add all the rest of the ingredients and stir fry for five seconds – that is with vigour!

•

Now reintroduce the scallops, and fry again to mix with the rest of the ingredients, add the soy sauce and mix together, toss well and serve immediately carrying a bamboo pole with water jug at each end, balanced on your shoulder.

Thailand

Assemble:

A medium sized wok A wooden fork and spoon – why? To toss the mixture

186

Beef / Veal Dish

Stir Fried Beef With Cashew Nuts

As most Thai cooking seems to be done “on the run” with delicious dishes whisked out of the ether at every street corner, it makes you stop and think why we in the west mess around with time consuming roasts and casseroles in massively expensive “fitted” kitchens when two minutes is all it takes to rustle up the most satisfying and memorable dish – this really is very FAST food!

Assemble:

A heavy wok, with wooden handle A wooden fork and spoon

Ingredients:¾ of a pound of lean

Thailand

trimmed beef, best with fillet 2 tablespoons of sesame seed oil A 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated A medium onion peeled and cut into half rounds 1 clove of garlic peeled and diced A teaspoon of dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons of light soy sauce 1 small red and 1 small green pepper deseeded and cut lengthways into fine strips 2 spring onions sliced on the diagonal into half inch pieces 1 stalk of celery cut on the diagonal into inch pieces 4 mushrooms – Chinese if you can get them if not use open cup English with black undersides 3 tablespoons of roasted cashew nuts 3 tablespoons of beef stock in which you have dissolved half a teaspoon full of corn flour

Then you; •

Trim the beef of all fat, then cover with cling film to avoid breaking the flesh, beat flat, on a bread board, with a wooden mallet until it is quarter of an inch thin ( or thick).

•

Now cut the flattened steak into quarter of an inch strips and again cut these long strips to about two and a half inch pieces. Sprinkle over with cooking salt and mix together.

•

Heat the sesame seed oil in the wok until it moves on the surface. Add the grated ginger, garlic and onion and fry over a high heat for three minutes.

•

Now add the beef strips and turn up the heat a fraction. Toss the beef strips with the fork and spoon to ensure they are separated as they cook – now you are stir frying – wok and wholl!!

•

Do not over cook the beef, as soon as it turns brown, after about three or four minutes, season with white pepper, the sugar and light soy sauce, take out and reserve on a warmed plate with noodles.

•

Now add the green and red pepper strips, spring onion, celery, sliced mushrooms and cashew nuts, pour in the beef stock with corn flour and stir fry for a final three minutes.

•

Reserve to the beef on the warmed serving dish with rice noodles and board your motorized sampan and serve with ear splitting grin.

187

Lamb / Mutton Dish

Minted Patties Of Lamb

Here is another way of combining lots of flavours around a basic ingredient, in this case lamb. By preparing and then combining all the flavours and textures you need to produce the final dish and then cooking all at one time, sensational dishes appear out of nowhere. Try these lamb patties, oozing with mint, with the hint of a kick, serve with any stir fried vegetables.

Ingredients:

Half a pound of lean lamb, trimmed and cut into cubes 2oz of pork dripping 1 scant tablespoon of light soy sauce 3 tablespoons of sesame seed or groundnut oil 1 teaspoon of dark brown sugar 3 spring onions chopped A good tablespoon of freshly chopped mint (or more if you wish) The white of a fresh egg A teaspoon of corn flour A dredging of plain flour for dusting

Then you: •

Put the chopped lamb pieces into the food processor and give it a good whiz until it is a fine paste then add the dripping and whiz once more

•

Put the soy sauce, sugar, mint, spring onions, the beaten egg white into the food processor, then sprinkle over with the corn flour. Now whiz until all the ingredients are fully blended.

•

Remove from the food processor into a mixing bowl and cover with cling film and leave to rest for an hour in the fridge.

•

Dredge the flour on to the bread board.

•

Now with a tablespoon take a full spoon full of the mixture and after flouring your hands roll it into a ball in the palms of your hand. Place the ball on the dredged flour and press down on the ball to make an oval flat Pattie shape, then coat with the flour on both sides.

•

Heat the oil in the wok until the surface starts to move then add the patties, two at a time and fry until golden brown on both sides. Remove with slotted spoon and reserve in a warmed oven on serving dish.

•

These patties are super when topped with a little sweet chilli sauce, mixed with a touch of dry sherry, some dark soy sauce and more chopped spring onion.

•

Serve having beaten your massive bronze temple gong (Eat your heart out Tommy Farr)

Thailand

Assemble;

Your trusty wok A food processor A mixing bowl A bread board A small saucepan A small whisk

188

Pork Dish

Lemon Grass Pork With Peanuts

Loin of pork is a Thai favourite as it responds to stir frying very quickly and also absorbs marinade flavours in short order. This simple dish is seen to be cooked on every street corner as part of the street vendors repertoire, along with Chicken Satay (coming soon to a recipe near you!)

Assemble:

A Wok with wooden handle A wooden fork and spoon A mixing bowl Some cling film A small frying pan A bread board and rolling pin

Thailand

Ingredients:

About 12oz of pork loin trimmed cut on the diagonal in strips about quarter of and inch thick. 2 lemon grass sticks, peeled to the fresh and then finely chopped 2 spring onions tailed and finely cut on the diagonal 8 black peppercorns coarsely crushed 2 tablespoons of peanut oil 2 garlic cloves peeled and crushed 2 small red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped 1 tablespoon of dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons of Thai fish sauce 2 tablespoons of crushed freshly roasted peanuts

Then you; •

Put the trimmed and sliced pork medallions into the mixing bowl, add the lemon grass, spring onions, crushed peppercorns then season with a little salt and stir to mix all the ingredients. Cover with cling film and leave to marinade in a cool place for twenty minutes.

•

Heat the wok over a fairly high heat, then add the peanut oil (or other nut oil) and swirl around so it coats the sides of the wok.

•

• •

•

•

Now add the marinated pork, making sure each slice is separate, and stir fry over a medium heat for about four minutes, stirring to brown both sides of the pork. Add the crushed garlic and chillies and continue to stir fry for a further ten minutes or until the pork is cooked through. Heat the small frying pan over a medium heat and when thoroughly hot add the fresh peanuts. The skins will begin to fall off so roll the nuts around the pan until all skins are off and the peanuts begin to brown. Put into a small bowl and when cool sieve out the skins and crush the roasted peanuts to a coarse powder with a rolling pin on a bread board, then reserve. Add the fish sauce to the pork in the wok and then sprinkle over with the sugar whilst still stirring, and then finally add the crushed peanuts and black pepper, and stir fry for another two minutes. Separate up to two warmed bowls, with rice noodles and hitch up a passing water buffalo and drag to the table for service.

Is this the queue for "Mary Poppins!"

189

Game Dish

Garlic Roasted Quail With honey

The Chatter of wild quail is a familiar sound around the rice fields of Thailand as they fatten themselves up, a bit like the wood pigeon over here. These small birds have a plumpness that makes them provide more meat than you would imagine and makes them ideal for open air roasting, which is why you can see large numbers of street food vendors with great skewers of quail just waiting for your command to “toast two please”.

Ingredients;

½ a cup of dark soy sauce or Thai fish sauce 2 tablespoons of a good blossom clear honey A tablespoon of dark sugar 6 large garlic cloves peeled and crushed A flat tablespoon of coarsely ground black pepper A teaspoon of galangal powder 2 tablespoons of sesame seed oil 4 dressed quails

Then you; •

Firstly prepare the rub for the birds; in a large bowl beat together with a whisk the soy sauce, honey, and sugar. When combined add the crushed garlic, crushed peppercorns and sesame oil and whisk again until all is combined.

•

Take each quail and using the scissors split down the bird’s backbone and lay flat on a flat surface, its called spatchcocking.

•

With the pastry brush apply a generous coating of the rub mixture on the inside of the birds and cover and chill for an hour

•

Take the birds and turn them over and apply another generous coating of rub mixture on the breast side of the quails, cover and chill for a further hour,

•

Pre heat the oven to 230, when at temperature place the quails breast side down on a wire rack underneath which you have placed an oven proof dish to catch the drips. After ten minutes turn the quails breast side up and baste with the juices from the oven proof dish and cook for a further fifteen minutes or until the quails are golden, and crisp.

•

Take the quails from the wire rack and skewer through the bird twice to its original shape, two per skewer.

•

Serve with a chilli dip or whatever your fancy takes and proceed to the table by hollowed out log canoe with two paddles.

Thailand

Assemble:

A mixing bowl A whisk Game scissors (or stout kitchen scissors) A roasting pan or wire rack A garlic crusher A pastry brush

190

Chicken Dish

Satay Ayam Chicken Satay

This is really for eating on the hoof, dipping your bamboo skewer with its pieces of browned chicken into the little tub of satay sauce and slobbering about the pavements marvelling at the prices of Rolex watches the little man at your elbow is insisting are genuine fakes. This dish is therefore an ideal Barbie dish and will enchant your guests who by now will be sick of burnt hamburgers. Do this dish in three stages, the chicken marinade, the sauce and then grill the chicken and you will be amazed at how simple it is to produce such deep and wondrous flavours.

Assemble:

Then you: •

Cut the chicken into bite sized pieces and thread them onto the bamboo skewers, leaving a small gap between each. Place all when threaded into a shallow dish.

•

Ingredients:

Mix all the marinade ingredients together thoroughly then pour over the chicken making sure all pieces are covered, and then cover with cling film and leave to marinade for two hours.

•

For the Satay Sauce:

Place the shelled and skinned peanuts in a small frying pan and roast gently until just brown and firm. When the peanuts have cooled, place them in the food processor and grind until fine.

4oz of skinned peanuts 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil 2 large cloves of crushed garlic 2 spring onions tailed and chopped ½ a teaspoon of chilli powder 2 teaspoons of dark brown sugar A tablespoon of fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon of coconut milk A small pinch of galangal powder Salt and ground black pepper

•

Heat the oil in a saucepan and when hot add the garlic and shallots and cook for three minutes. Stir in gently a cup of water, add the chilli, sugar, galangal powder, the ground peanuts and bring to the boil stirring often and then simmer uncovered for about twenty minutes.

•

Grill the chicken kebabs until brown with as much marinade on them as you can and hold on a warm plate.

•

When the peanut sauce is thick, season, then add the coconut milk and lime juice and bring to the boil again and simmer until the consistency of double cream. Place into a fancy bowl and dip in the cooked kebabs then sprinkle with chopped coriander.

2 cloves of crushed garlic A teaspoon of galangal powder 2 shallots peeled and chopped 2 tablespoons of dark soy sauce 1 tablespoon of fresh lime juice A red chilli chopped and deseeded A tablespoon of chopped coriander

•

Hail a passing rickshaw and serve “al fresco” by the nearest paddy field.

10 bamboo skewers 9 inches long A shallow dish A food processor A small saucepan A small frying pan

Thailand

2 small or one large chicken breast, skin off

For the marinade:

191

Offal Dish

Braised Oxtail In Spicy Sauce

This next recipe relies on your local butcher having just butchered a water buffalo – well that’s a pity “if you’d only been here last week” the plaintive cry of the out of stock butcher. Fear not this recipe works just as well with our traditional oxtail so you will be able to prepare this festive dish after all; its well worth the cooking time.

Ingredients:

6 pieces of oxtail, from the centre of the tail - trimmed 6 shallots, peeled and chopped 8 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped 4 Thai chillies (orange if possible), deseeded and chopped An ounce piece of galangal (ginger) root, peeled and chopped 2 tablespoons of rice or plain flour 1 tablespoon of ground turmeric 3 tablespoons of groundnut oil 2 lemon grass stalks, peeled to the fresh leaves 6 kaffir lime leaves 2 cups of water in which you have dissolved a tablespoon of tamarind essence 3 tablespoons of dark brown sugar A 4oz tin of peeled plum tomatoes

Then you: •

Put the chopped shallots, garlic, galangal (ginger) root, and chillies into the electric coffee grinder and grind to a paste.

•

Mix the flour with the ground turmeric and season with salt and ground black pepper in a mixing bowl then spread evenly over the bread board.

•

Having trimmed the fat from the oxtail pieces, roll them in the flour mixture ensuring the whole piece is covered in a layer of the flour. Leave to rest for half an hour.

•

Heat the oil in the oven proof casserole dish and when hot stir in the spice mixture stirring until the paste becomes golden and fragrant.

•

Now add the floured oxtail pieces one at a time and cook until each piece is brown all over.

•

Add the lemon grass stalks, lime leaves, tomatoes and tamarind water and gently combine. Top up with water to cover the oxtail and bring the whole to the boil.

•

Allow to boil for two minutes then reduce the heat to a steady simmer and with the fat skimmer remove all fat from the surface.

•

Cover with a lid and place in a medium oven, 160, for at least two hours.

•

Take out of the oven and place on the top of the stove and stir in the sugar, season, then allow to cook uncovered for a further hour, or until the meat is falling off the bone

•

Divide into two portions and serve wearing a full temple dance outfit including those “must have” golden baggy pants.

Thailand

Assemble:

An electric coffee grinder A wooden bread board An oven proof casserole dish A fat skimmer (or balloon)

192

Vegetarian Dish

Coconut Vegetables

In the main most vegetables are stir fired as the Thai cook their entire meal all at once in their woks; vegetables as a separate accompaniment are the exception rather than the rule. If you prefer to have your meal with a separate vegetable plate try this - a coconut and chilli sauce over steamed cauliflower and carrots with a little red pepper. This can be served with all the preceding recipes if desired.

Assemble:

A large pan with lid A steamer or electric steamer (better still) A mixing bowl nice enough to serve to table An electric blender

Thailand

Ingredients:

½ a pound of cauliflower florets (without stalks) ¼ a pound of Broccoli florets 4 medium carrots peeled and cut into narrow strips. A large red pepper deseeded and cut into strips, the same length as the carrots 2 cloves of garlic peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons of fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon of dark brown sugar A decent pinch of red chilli powder An ounce of desiccated coconut soaked in hot water for half an hour

Then you: •

Place the cauliflower, broccoli and carrot into the steamer and steam for about five minutes or until they are just cooked (al dente).

•

Drain into a serving bowl and keep warm

•

Put the red pepper, lime juice, chilli powder, garlic and sugar into the blender and blend to a smooth paste, transfer to a small bowl and combine the soaked coconut, having squeezed it free of excess water (reserve the water its coconut milk!)

•

Pour the blended paste over the warm vegetables and turn to ensure all vegetables are coated with the sauce.

•

Garnish the dish with freshly chopped coriander and take to the table in the “de- luxe” rickshaw, with a 42 inch Plasma T.V. complete with stereo sound and tinted windows.

193

Pudding

Sangkaya Fak Thong Egg Custard In Pumpkin

Puddings are more of a festive treat than the automatic end course of your meal. This is not to say that the Thai people do not have a sweet tooth – quite the reverse, a quick glance at the state of the teeth of their older citizens will betray their love of all things sweet. This, therefore is hardly a pudding as such, however it makes for a spectacular ending to your Thai eating out (by staying in) experience and is sure to gain ecstatic acclaim.

Ingredients:

About 5oz of palm sugar (jaggery) 8 large fresh hen’s eggs – yolks only 1 cup of coconut cream One pumpkin no more than 8 inches diameter - or any that will comfortably fit inside your steamer (check before you start!)

Then you: •

Take the top off the pumpkin with a sharp knife and reserve.

•

With a soup spoon remove all the seeds and fibres from the centre of the pumpkin, taking care to leave all the soft flesh.

•

You can keep and dry the pumpkin seeds for future use.

• • •

• •

•

Grate the jaggery (palm sugar) as necessary into a bowl, add the egg yolks and coconut cream and whisk lightly into a froth. Pour the frothy mixture into the hollowed pumpkin, right to the top, and then gently replace the severed top. Now place into the steamer (it will fit if you have checked it before you started!) and steam gently for about half an hour or until the custard in the pumpkin’s centre has cooked and is set. Gently remove from the pan and place upright and allow to cool for at least an hour. When cool slice, with the sharpest knife you’ve got, the pumpkin sideways to about one inch thickness and gently ease the slice with its set custard centre onto a serving plate Serve having gently sprinkle jaggery on the custard wearing your Yul Brunner “King and I” trousers with freshly polished head.

Thailand

Assemble;

A mixing bowl An egg whisk A large steamer pan and lid or an electric steamer

194

Your Chop-Chop Special House in

China Your Menu

To Start: Spinach And Crab Meat Soup Or Chilli Pork Spare Ribs Seafood: Five Spice Squid Or Hunan Style Sea Bass Main Courses: Choose From Gan Bian Niurou Shredded Lamb Stir-Fry With Noodles Double Cooked Pork Szechuan Style Orange Peel Chicken Stir-Fry Pheasant With Pak Choi Run Tsa Chin Kan – Deep Fried Liver And Kidneys Stir Fried Seasonal Vegetables Pudding: Jeweled Rice Pudding.

195

196

Well what can you say about a cuisine that feeds a quarter of the world’s population? Not a lot in this missive - for as many words as there are Chinese people have been written about their menus which are as old as time its self. Equally the Chinese restaurant is perhaps the most dominant venue for those people throughout the world who fancy “eating out for a change”, and therefore even small children in the West can recite their local “chinky” menu before they can their five times table. The migration of the Chinese people to ports throughout the world was often a function of their cooking ability on trading ships and their custom of “jumping ship” often leading to the establishment of a tight community feeding on their ethnic diet when at all possible, the original “China Towns”. This legacy has now spread throughout the world and had their original founders had the foresight they would have named their restaurant product “Mc Wongalds” Still you bought this to be able to construct a reasonably authentic national menu, whilst staying in – so enough about Chinese restaurants take your pick of the following and “Eat Out, whilst staying in”. Whilst you are shopping you may like to add Wasibi, a warmish horseradish type paste, sesame oil, Sichuan peppercorns and a few chopsticks to your list as well as fish sauce and rice wine.

Well that should keep the neighbours cat out !

197

Recipes Soup : Spinach And Crab Meat Soup Starter : Chilli Pork Spare Ribs Fish : Hunan Style Sea Bass Shellfish : Five Spice Squid Beef / Veal : Gan Bian Niurou Crispy Beef In Chilli Sauce Lamb / Mutton : Shredded Lamb Stir-Fry With Noodles Pork : Double Cooked Pork Game : Stir-Fry Pheasant With Pak Choi Chicken : Szechuan Style Orange Peel Chicken Offal : Runtsa Chin Kan Deep Fried Liver And Kidneys Vegie : Stir Fried Seasonal Vegetables Pudding : Jeweled Rice Pudding

198

Soup

Spinach And Crab Soup

In China soup is often eaten as an accompaniment or beverage with the main meal, and equally often it is bulked up with sufficient solids to become a main meal. The following is not one of those but a delicious and artfully flavoured soup in its own right.

Assemble:

A large saucepan with lid A wooden spoon A garlic press

Ingredients:

China

About 2 pints of good chicken stock, best if you made it yourself and left in a few bits of chicken A 1 inch piece of peeled fresh ginger, pressed in the garlic press and pressings only used 2 tablespoons of dry sherry or dry rice wine 2 teaspoons of corn flour mixed to a paste with a little cold water The meat from two large crab claws or one tin of white crabmeat 4oz of fresh spinach leaves, deveined of the thickest veins on the leaves shredded by hand 1 egg white beaten together with two teaspoons of sesame oil A teaspoon of white castor sugar Salt and freshly ground Sichuan pepper

Then you: •

Mix the ginger pressings with the chicken stock in the large pan and bring to the boil, then turn down to a simmer and allow to cook for ten minutes.

•

Take from the heat and add the dry sherry/rice wine and the sugar and stir constantly as you blend in the corn flour paste with a wooden spoon.

•

When all is thoroughly mixed return the pan to the stove at a medium heat and stir in the flaked crab meat and season as required.

•

Gently add the fine shreds of spinach and stir until wilted.

•

Finally drizzle into the soup the egg white and sesame oil, having first given it a last whisking.

•

Swirl around for two minutes then serve in warmed willow pattern bowls with a deep bow and then walk backwards, bowing to her Imperial Majesty, for the prawn crackers.

199

Starter

Chilli Pork Spare Ribs

It’s amazing how one dish in a restaurant can remain in your memory not for its flavour or texture but for the impact it had on your fellow diners – this is such a dish, for I will always remember my great friend, a twenty stones estate agent from Cheshire, having this as a starter, then a double portion as a main and finally having an A B F portion as a dessert in a little Chinese restaurant in Alderly Edge. God rest you Frank - and thanks for the memory.

Ingredients:

A sheet of pork ribs – you will need about a pound weight for two. Vegetable oil for deep frying

For the paste:

A star of “star anise” 2 red chillies, deseeded if you must, and finely chopped A teaspoon of Sichuan peppercorns 2 teaspoon of Chinese five spices A tablespoon of runny honey A tablespoon of dark soy sauce A tablespoon of dry sherry or rice wine A tablespoon of corn flour

Then you: •

Separate the ribs with a sharp knife then chop the ribs into short lengths with a single blow – do not hack them as you may get splinters (uggh!)

•

Place all the paste ingredients, except the corn flour, into the blender and blend to a smooth paste, and reserve to a small mixing bowl.

•

• • • •

Heat the vegetable oil in a deep pan and when the oil begins to move, introduce the ribs and deep fry until they are golden brown on both sides, then remove and drain on kitchen towel. Place the smooth paste into a saucepan and add a little dry sherry then bring to the boil, and reduce to a simmer. Blend the corn flour with a little water and introduce to the simmering liquid, which is beginning to smell divine. Add the ribs to the simmering liquid and allow to cook for half an hour. Pre heat your oven to 180

•

Take the ribs from the simmering pan and place on the wire rack over a roasting tin, and place them in the oven. Baste with the pan juices every five minutes turning after ten, and when dark brown and sticky take off with tongs an place onto shallow dishes ( a dusting of sesame seeds looks good and helps the crunch)

•

Serve with a finger bowl or two with tooth picks at the high port singing your school favourite from the Mikado.

China

Assemble:

A meat cleaver A Chopping board A medium sized saucepan A grilling rack Some kitchen towel A pastry brush A small mixing bowl An electric blender

200

Fish Dish

Hunan Style Sea Bass

Highly prized Sea Bass is the star of the next show, although Sea Bream or even river trout are cooked in the same simple way of part poaching and part braising in a wok. Some who wish to elaborate and finish off the whole cooking gamut place the cooked fish under a red hot grill having dusted thinly with corn flour - it crisps the skin but I think dries the fish and removes some of the delicacy of the ginger flavours.

Assemble:

A wooden handled wok A slotted spoon A large serving plate A fish slice A sauceboat

China

Ingredients:

Pick a whole sea bass big enough for the two of you, have it cleaned, scaled with head and tail removed A tablespoon of fine sea salt 3 tablespoons of sesame seed oil 4 cloves of garlic peeled and finely chopped A 1 inch piece of ginger peeled and cut into thin lengths 2 tablespoons of chilli sauce 1 tablespoon of rice wine or dry sherry ½ a teaspoon of sugar 2 cup of fish or vegetable stock 4 spring onions tailed and cut into fine strips

Then you: •

With a sharp knife make three equal incisions from the fish’s backbone to its belly flap, parallel with the gill opening on both sides of the fish. Into these cuts place one piece of ginger strip and one piece of spring onion leaf and rub with a little salt.

•

Heat one tablespoon full of sesame oil in the wok till it starts moving then carefully add the fish and brown each side, for two minutes each.

•

With the slotted spoon remove the fish to a warmed serving plate.

•

Add the remaining oil to the Wok and heat till moving. Add the rest of the ginger and garlic and stir fry for about a minute, then stir in the chilli sauce, dry sherry (rice wine) fish stock and sugar and bring all to the boil.

•

With the slotted spoon and fish slice, to keep the fish whole, add the fish back into the liquid and ensure the fish is covered by the liquid, if not add a little more stock. Simmer for ten minutes or until the fish is cooked through, then gently remove with fish slice and slotted spoon ensuring that the fish remains whole (again) and replace on the serving dish and keep warm.

•

Add the spring onions to the sauce in the wok and reduce, stirring constantly, until the sauce reaches the consistency you require. When this is achieved pour into a sauce boat.

•

Pour a little sauce over the fish and garnish with cris cross chives leaves, light the Chinese lanterns and astonish your beloved with your one string violin making sure your pigtail is safely tied.

201

Shellfish Dish

Five Spice Squid

China with its massive seaboard has a number of delicate ways of cooking shellfish and includes the humble squid within this category. In the West we tend to associate the squid with calamari so often murdered by cooking in a bland batter and deep fried out of any hope of presenting a flavour to the unfortunate punter, thus doing this tender food a great disservice. The following little gem redresses the balance so give it a chance!

Ingredients:

4 bodies of small squid, cleaned by your fishmonger A 1 inch piece of ginger peeled and cut into thin strips A further half inch piece of fresh ginger peeled and grated 1 clove of garlic peeled and crushed 6 spring onions, tailed and cut diagonally in to one inch lengths 1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into strips lengthways 1 fresh green chilli, deseeded and sliced thinly 6 button mushrooms, washed and sliced side ways to include stalks 1 tablespoon of Chinese five spice 2 tablespoons of black bean sauce A teaspoon of castor sugar 2 tablespoons of light soy sauce 1 tablespoon of rice wine or dry sherry 3 tablespoons of sesame oil

Then you: •

Rinse the squid in running water inside and out. Now carefully make a small incision at the rim of the flesh and take the transparent skin firmly and remove from each squid, along with the wings if they are still there then dry on kitchen paper towel.

•

Now cut open the squid until flat, and then cut into quarter inch strips.

•

Heat the oil in the wok until it starts to move then swirl it around so as it coats the sides of the wok.

•

Add the squid strips and stir fry for no longer than one minute moving with the fork and spoon, then reserve into a warmed bowl and spread over the grated ginger, coating each piece.

•

Now add the ginger pieces, garlic, spring onions, red pepper, chilli and sliced mushrooms into the remaining oil in the wok and stir fry over a high heat for two minutes.

•

Return the squid strips to the wok and sprinkle in the five spice powder, then add the black bean sauce, soy sauce, dry sherry ( rice wine) and sugar and bring all to the boil, stirring all the time and cook for no longer than one minute ( remember the over cooked calamari?) .

•

Plate into two bowls and serve at once plucking at your ukulele and doing your George Formby “Mr. Woo” impersonation.

China

Assemble:

A wooden handled wok A wooden fork and spoon A garlic crusher

202

Beef / Veal Dish

Gan Bian Niurou

Crispy Beef In Chilli Sauce

It somehow goes against the grain to see “Crispy” beef displayed on a menu, it must be something from our childhood remembering Sunday Roast Beef and Yorkshires as the only way we ever saw beef cooked. Be amazed, for when you try this, beef will never be the same – just like steak tartar, don’t ask for it well done! As most Chinese meals are served with a variety of separate dishes so that a multitude of flavours are available, try serving this in smaller portions in conjunction with any of the other recipes in this section.

Assemble:

China

A wok with wooden handle A slotted spoon A small saucepan A bread board A wooden mallet Some cling film A colander

Ingredients:

2 thin slices of quality beef, rump will do nicely A tablespoon of light soy sauce 2 tablespoons of rice wine or dry sherry A tablespoon of sesame oil 3 tablespoons of corn flour 1 tablespoon of plain flour ½ a cup of peanut oil

For the chilli sauce.

6 dried red chillies complete with seeds 1 tablespoon of peanut oil ½ a cup of water 4 large cloves of fresh garlic peeled and very finely chopped 3 tablespoons of dark brown sugar A tablespoon of runny honey 1 teaspoon of corn flour dissolved in a tablespoon of water

Then you: • •

Place the beef slices on a bread board and cover with cling film and beat it to a uniform thinness, taking care not to tear. Combine the light soy sauce, rice wine, two tablespoons full of peanut oil together with the corn flour and plain flour and whisk until smooth

•

Remove the cling film from the beef and cut it, against the grain, into long strips. Now cut these strips into two inch lengths, place in the mixing bowl with the marinade and put in the fridge for two hours.

•

Now put the rest of the peanut oil with the sesame oil in the wok and heat until the oil is moving. Strain the beef from the marinade through the colander add to the wok and deep fry the beef strips for four minutes then remove to a warmed plate.

•

Heat the small sauce pan with the sesame oil, garlic and chillies and fry for half a minute, then add the rest of the sauce ingredients and stir till all is smooth, and then simmer for two minutes.

•

Reheat the wok and refry the beef again until it is crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon, and drain on kitchen paper, then place in warmed serving dish, pour over the chilli sauce and take to the table with a handful of “junk” mail.

203

Lamb / Mutton Dish

Shredded Stir Fried Lamb With Spring Onions And Noodles

Lamb is not a great favourite with the Chinese people as goat is seen as a superior meat and is much easier to herd and feed, however when available its worth a try. A lot of the available “lamb” is of a vintage that would grant it the title of ancient one, and as such seems to have a rather earthy taste to those who are used to the gentle nuances of Welsh spring lamb, however when stir fried in a little soy sauce and rice wine the result could change your mind for ever.

Then you: • •

Ingredients:

A pound of boned and trimmed lamb 2 tablespoons of dark soy sauce 2 tablespoons of rice wine or dry sherry 1 tablespoon of sesame seed oil 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil 1 tablespoon of corn flour 1 egg whisked ½ a pint of chicken stock A vegetable stock cube A pinch of five spice powder 4 spring onions tailed then sliced diagonally into two inch pieces 4oz of fine rice noodles, soaked for ten minutes in warm water

• •

In the small mixing bowl whisk the egg, corn flour and water to form a thick paste, season with a little salt and ground black pepper. Take the lamb and roughly cut into lengths of about three inches. With a fork tear the lamb along the grain and then from the side of each strip tear a little shred at a time until all the lamb is shredded and separate, then dust over with the five spice powder Put all the shredded lamb into the egg and corn flour mixture and ensure each piece is coated on all sides. Heat the vegetable oil in the wok until it just starts to move, then add the shredded, coated lamb and stir fry for one minute, stirring hard so as to stop the lamb shreds from sticking together.

•

Add the spring onions, soy sauce and stock and stir fry for a further minute then add the strained noodles and simmer gently for about five minutes stirring often.

•

Finally add the rice wine (dry sherry) and lastly drizzle over with the sesame seed oil.

•

Plate into warmed bowls and serve quoting your favourite “Confucius he say” – joke. “Man found under woman’s bed is infra dig” if you can’t think of one.

China

Assemble:

A medium sized mixing bowl A wooden spoon and fork A wooden handled wok

204

Pork Dish

Double Cooked Pork

This is a meat that the Chinese cook so well; you must have wondered how they manage to cook the outside red and the inside whitish. A bit of food colouring rubbed on the outside before frying helps. Most Chinese menus have their principal pork dish as “sweet and sour” – little balls of pork deep fried in crispy batter and served with a violent orange coloured sickly sweet or bitingly sour sauce. This recipe should make a nice change and has the merit of using one of the tasty cuts from the pig – its belly.

Assemble;

A bread board A very sharp kitchen knife A large saucepan with lid A wooden handled wok A wooden spoon and fork

China

Ingredients:

1 pound of belly pork cut into one inch strips 4 tablespoons of vegetable oil. 2 dried red chilli peppers, seeded if you must, and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons of dried shitake mushrooms soaked in warm water for three hours 4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed 2 tablespoons of dark soy sauce 1 tablespoon of light soy sauce 1 tablespoon of Hosin sauce 2 tablespoons of tomato puree 2 teaspoons of sugar A chicken stock cube dissolved in three tablespoons of hot water 4 spring onions tailed and cut length ways

Then you: •

Place the strips of belly pork into the saucepan and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and allow to cook for at least half an hour. Remove from the stove and allow to cool.

•

When cool put the belly pork strips onto the bread board and with a very sharp knife cut the strips into pieces about an inch and a half square

•

Heat the vegetable oil in the wok until it just starts to move then introduce the chopped chillies and drained mushrooms and stir fry for one minute.

•

Turn up the heat and when just before smoking add the pork pieces and stir fry until they turn brown and the skin turns golden, about five minutes.

•

Now turn down the heat a fraction and add the garlic, soy sauces, hosin sauce, tomato puree, chilli sauce, stock and sugar and stir fry for one minute or until the mixture becomes smooth.

•

Turn up the heat again and stir fry until the sauce begins to thicken then sprinkle in the sesame seed oil and dry sherry (rice wine).

• •

Lastly put in the spring onions and allow to cook for a final minute, before turning out on to a warmed serving dish. Take to the table wearing the top half of your Dragon dance costume – that’s the bit with the head.

205

Game Dish

Stir Fried Pheasant With Pak Choi

I remember going into a well preserved and excavated Roman Fort along Hadrian’s Wall, in Northumberland and visiting a splendid tableaux of their reconstruction of a shop as it may have been in Roman times, all very well done with a splendid commentary showing that the Northumbrian accent was alive even then. The thing that struck me most was they had a string of fowl (stuffed) for sale and there in the middle was a plump cock pheasant – very curious as they were not introduced into The United Kingdom from China until the middle of the nineteenth centaury! So as it’s a native bird to the Chinese, you bet that if you can eat it the locals know how to cook it – simple as ever – stir fry it!.

Ingredients:

3 breasts of pheasant – not as difficult as it sounds any decent game dealer will have some A tablespoon of sesame oil A tablespoon of vegetable oil 4 gloves of garlic, peeled and finely sliced ½ a teaspoon of dried red chilli flakes A tablespoon of dark soy sauce A tablespoon of light soy sauce 1 plant of pak choi – sliced into two inch strips Sesame seeds and chopped coriander to garnish

Then you: • •

Boil a kettle full of water and pour over the skin side of the pheasant breasts, they will tighten and curl. Pre heat your grill to maximum then dry the breasts with kitchen towel and then prick all over the skin with a fork, then sprinkle on a dusting of salt. Now put on the grill pan and grill the skin side for two minutes till the skin starts darken. Allow to cool then cut, with a sharp knife, into bite sized pieces.

•

Heat the sesame and vegetable oil together in the wok until the oil is just moving, then introduce the sliced garlic and cook until they just start to brown – they must not overcook or all the flavour will go - as will your hope of a night of joy with your little lotus petal !

•

Add the pheasant pieces and stir fry for about four minutes or until the meat starts to turn brown, then add the chilli flakes, soy sauce and a half a cup of water and fry for a further minute.

•

Add the Pak Choi and allow to just wilt as you stir fry, taking care not to over cook and allow it to go too limp. Divide onto serving plates and garnish with sesame seeds and coriander.

•

Serve waving your little red book of Chairman Mao’s thoughts.

China

Assemble;

A wooden handled Wok A wooden spoon and fork

206

Chicken Dish

Szechuan Style Orange Peel Chicken

Chicken meat responds well to stir fry but must be cooked through and again must not be overcooked or it will harden and lose the texture that makes it such a joy to eat, so a salutary note when stir frying chicken - always put in at least two more pieces than you need. Thus you can always take out a piece from the stir fry and cut in two, only when the chicken is the same colour all the way through should you immediately remove and serve. This dish sounds a little strange but is one of our favourite Chinese meals; take care to thoroughly dry the orange peel.

Assemble:

A wooden handled Wok A wooden spoon and fork A medium mixing bowl A glass juicer press A garlic crusher

Then you;

China

•

Peel the orange with a sharp knife into quarters, being careful not to include any white membrane (its leaving the pith instead of taking it!). Cut the peel into inch wide strips and place on a piece of tinfoil and place in an oven heated to 200. After about half an hour remove and reserve to dry.

•

In the mixing bowl place the soy sauce, dry sherry, spring onions, dried red pepper and the crushed ginger and mix well. Cut the chicken into bite size pieces then introduce the chicken pieces and allow to marinade for two hours.

Ingredients;

2 medium chicken breasts, skinned and boned A large orange 1 tablespoon of light soy sauce 1 tablespoon of rice wine or dry sherry A 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and crushed 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed ½ a cup of fresh orange juice, no pips ½ a teaspoon of corn flour A teaspoon of sugar A pinch of dried red pepper 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil

•

In another small bowl mix together the corn flour, sugar, and orange juice with a pinch of salt and hold in the fridge for half an hour.

•

Heat the vegetable oil in the wok until it begins to move then introduce the dried orange peel and stir fry for about two minutes or until the edges just begin to turn brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and dry on paper kitchen towel.

•

Now stir into the hot oil in the wok the chicken and its marinade and stir fry for about four minutes or until the chicken is just cooked through.

•

Stir the orange juice mixture to thoroughly mix then introduce this to the chicken in the wok and stir fry until the sauce begins to thicken and coats the chicken pieces.

•

Remove to a warmed serving disk and crumble the cooked orange peel on top of the chicken, take to the table with a pair of crossed chop sticks stuck in the bun of your black wig having made sure your Kimono bow is on straight.

207

Offal Dish

Run Tsa Chin Kan

Deep Fried Kidneys And Liver

By now you will have got the message that eating Chinese food means having a variety of dishes set before you for you to pick at with your chop sticks and hopefully get enough to eat before it is all eaten by those with a greater skill with the little wooden sticks than you. This means you can slip in all manner of goodies, from snake to spiders, and as long as they look as if they have been stir or deep fried its rude to ask – just eat. The treatment of offal, both the liver and kidney from the same animal as a “tasty piece” within a meal is quite common try it, for it really works a treat.

Then you; •

Take the liver and remove all the arteries and gristle with a sharp knife, then cut into equal strips about one and a half inches by one inch. Remove into a small bowl.

•

Place the kidneys on the board and cut into two lengthways. With the sharp knife remove the top hard core from each half, then thinly slice each half into three lengthways, ending up with six slices from each kidney, remove and store in a small bowl.

•

Combine the rice wine (dry sherry), soy sauce and sugar in a bowl and then when thoroughly mixed and the sugar dissolved, divide equally between the liver and the kidneys.

•

Gently mix the strips to ensure each side is coated, then cover each bowl with a piece of cling film and reserve to a fridge and allow to marinade for three hours.

•

Place the oil in the deep frying pan making sure it is not too near the top, at least four inches. Heat the oil and when it reaches 185 on a deep fat thermometer or when a cube of old bread turns golden brown in under a minute it is ready to receive the liver and the kidneys.

•

Place the liver in a sieve or if you have one a deep frying cage and lower the liver into the hot fat and deep fry for one minute or until it is brown, then remove and drain on kitchen towel and keep warm in a bowl.

•

Repeat with the kidneys and again save to a warmed bowl.

Ingredients;

Half and pound of lamb’s liver 4 lamb’s kidneys 4 tablespoons of dark soy sauce 2 tablespoons of rice wine or dry sherry 2 tablespoon of sugar Enough vegetable oil for deep frying in the pan you have chosen A pinch of Chinese five spice

•

Now mix the two together and sprinkle on a little five spices powder and take to the table wearing that cute little khaki cap with the red star on the front.

China

Assemble:

Two small mixing bowls A large saucepan for deep frying A bread board A very sharp kitchen knife

208

Vegetarian Dish

Stir Fried Seasonal Vegetables With Rice Noodles

It is usual to have a steaming plate of fresh vegetables in season all crisply stir fried and available to all to pick at to make their own meal, thus as a vegetarian you can chose only to eat this particular dish. With the addition of rice noodles this may make a substantial meal in its own right.

Assemble:

A wooden handled wok A wooded spoon and fork A small mixing bowl A sieve

Ingredients:

China

A red and green pepper deseeded and cut into strips A medium onion peeled and cut into rings 6 sugar snaps peas, tailed and sliced 4 baby sweet corn tailed and sliced into four lengthways One stick of celery skinned and chopped into two inch by quarter inch 2oz of fresh bean sprouts 1oz of dried shitake mushrooms, soaked and drained Five button mushrooms chopped lengthways to include stalks 4 cloves of garlic peeled and chopped A small green chilli deseeded and finely chopped A medium carrot finely chopped length ways 2oz of rice noodles soaked in boiling water, in which a vegetable stock cube has been added, for ten minutes then drained 2 tablespoons of sesame oil 2 teaspoons of corn flour dissolved in water to form a loose paste

Then you: • •

Heat the sesame oil in the wok until the oil just starts to move, then add the chopped garlic and chilli, and stir fry for two minutes. Now add all the vegetables and stir fry for about five minutes constantly tossing with the wooden fork and spoon.

•

Drain the noodles through a sieve and then add little at a time to the stir fry making sure that they are well mixed before you add the next lot. Then toss and fry for a further two minutes.

•

Just before you take them to the table introduce the corn flour mixture and toss to glaze coat the stir fry.

• •

Place in a warmed serving dish, sprinkle gently with some light soy sauce. Take to the table squawking like a Peking duck with both hands tucked into your rather smart white fighting judo kit black belt lightly tied.

209

Pudding

Jeweled Rice

Well where else did you think rice pudding came from? Puddings are mainly served on special occasions or to special guests, so who better to serve this visual and two ways tasteful pudding to than your own little love dream – flowering cherry or whatever. It takes a little time to arrange the fruits so make sure you are not under pressure and the end result will dazzle- whilst you may razzle, - who knows?

A large sauce pan A pudding basin A steamer pan and lid

Ingredients;

Ingredients: 8 ounces of plain Chinese rice 2 tablespoons full of castor sugar kept in a jar with a vanilla pod A butter paper (to grease the pudding bowl) 8 ounces of dried fruit and nuts 10 glace cherries 6 dried apricots cut into quarters lengthways 10 stoned dates A full cup of plump sultanas and sweet raisins A tablespoon full of blanched almond halves 6 dried prunes stoned and cut into quarters

Then you; • •

Wash the rice under running water, when the water is clear transfer the rice to the sauce pan and add a pint of cold water. Bring the pan to the boil slowly add the sugar and then turn to a simmer and cook for ten minutes or until all the water has been absorbed.

•

Grease the inside of a pudding bowl using butter paper and cut a piece of greaseproof paper to the shape of the bottom of the bowl and place it there.

•

Now for the arty part - with the fruits and nuts make a design on the bottom of the bowl on the greaseproof paper – this will be the top of the pudding when you turn it out so spend some time to ensure you have the right “wow” factor when your masterpiece is unveiled.

•

Now gently cover the placed fruit with about a third of the cooked rice taking care not to disturb the fruit beneath.

•

Add more fruit and nuts paying attention to the outside area of the bowl, again this will be visible when the pudding is first turned out.

•

Complete the layers ending with a layer of rice. Now cover the top of the basin with two layers of tinfoil.

•

Place the pudding basin in the steamer over hot water, bring to the boil and steam for about two hours, remembering to top up the steamer with water as required.

•

Take the pudding basin from the steamer and allow to cool for twenty minutes then remove the foil and replace with the dish upon which you intend to serve your masterpiece. Now carefully turn the bowl upside down with the serving plate on the bottom and very gently remove the bowl – wow!

•

Take to the table wearing the Emperor’s cloths (if you dare).

China

Assemble:

210

Soups:

Master Index for Eating out whilst staying in

Ancient Bean Soup .................................................................................................... 80 Ajo Blanco Con Uvas – Cold Almond Soup With Grapes......................................................... 64 Bedouin Mutton Soup : Bidaoua Hariria .........................................................................112 Chicken Mulligatawny ...............................................................................................166 Cream Of Stilton Soup ............................................................................................... 16 French Onion Soup With Crouton De Gruyere .....................................................................32 Minestrone ............................................................................................................... 48 New England Clam Chowder ........................................................................................ 96 Pepper Water : John Martin’s Agasl ..............................................................................148 Spinach And Crabmeat Soup ......................................................................................198 Thai Style Chicken Soup ............................................................................................182 Wedding Soup : Dugan Corbasi .................................................................................. 132

Starters:

Caesar Salad .......................................................................................................... 97 Cauliflour Fritters : Phoolgobi Bajai ..............................................................................167 Chilli Pork Spare Ribs ...............................................................................................199 Escargots A La Bourguignonne ...................................................................................... 33 Meze: Aubergine Almond Rolls ...................................................................................114 Baked Eggs In Peppers....................................................................................115 Salted Lemons And Pepper Salad .....................................................................113 Prawns Rawara ..................................................................................................... 149 Raw Beef Fillet With Blue Cheese Dressing : Carpaccio Alla Gorgonzola..................................... 49 Stuffed Aubergines : Imam Bayildi ...............................................................................133 Skewers Of Peppers, Olives And Anchovies : Banderillas....................................................... 65 Smoked Salmon Mousse............................................................................................... 17 Taramasalata ........................................................................................................ 81 Thai Fish Cakes ......................................................................................................183

Fish:

Baked Herring With Oinions And Potato : Herrings Boulangere ................................................ 34 Baked Mackerel : Psari Plaki Pan Fried Scrod With Orange Sauce ...........................................82 Fish And Coconut Curry : Keralan Fish Molee ..................................................................168 Grilled Scrod With Orange Sauce ................................................................................... 98 Hot And Sour Fish Curry : Kingfish Ambot-Tik ................................................................150 Hunan Style Sea Bass..............................................................................................200 Pastillia Of Seafood .................................................................................................118 Poached Sea Bass With Hazelnut Sauce : Badem Taratorlu Leverek ....................................134 Poached Smoked Haddock And Eggs. ............................................................................. 18 Sole With Courgettes : Segolis Alla Italiana....................................................................... 50 Tagine Of Monkfish ................................................................................................... 117 Thai Spice Marinated Salmon .....................................................................................184 Tuna Pimention With Potato : Marmitako ........................................................................ 66

Shellfish:

Baked Shrimps And Spring Onions ................................................................................. 83 Clam And Crispy Pork Stew : Shellfish Cataplana .............................................................. 67 Five Spiced Squid ....................................................................................................201 Grilled Lobster.......................................................................................................... 19 Indian West Coast Spiced Prawns : Sondhia....................................................................169 Shrimp Casserole With Cheese : Karides Halikarnasse .......................................................135 Langoustines Aux Tarragon ......................................................................................... 35 Lobster Thermidor ..................................................................................................... 99 Scampi With Tuna And Tomato Sauce : Scampi Alla Livornese ............................................ 51 Seared Scallops With Spring Onions And Ginger................................................................185 Spicy Fried Velvet Crabs : Crabs Sukhem......................................................................151

211

Beef / Veal:


Beef Biryani – Saffron Rice And Spicy Beef ......................................................................170 Beef Olives .............................................................................................................. 20 Beef And Onions Stew : Stifado ..................................................................................... 84 Crispy Beef In Chilli Sauce : Gan Bian Niurou ...................................................................202 Marinated Beef Casserole : Daube De Boeuf A La Provencal ................................................. 36 Rich Beef Sauce For Pasta : Ragu De Bolonga .................................................................. 52 Stir Fried Beef With Cashew Nuts ................................................................................186 Slow Cooked Beef Curry : Bife Bafad ............................................................................153 Tagine Of Beef And Dates .........................................................................................119 Texas Red Chilli Con Carne With Red Beans And Peppers ..................................................100 The Priest's Veal Stew : Papaz Yahini ...........................................................................136 Veal Escallops With Sherry And Orange : Terna A La Valenciana .......................................... 68

Lamb / Mutton:

Braised Lamb Jenny With Shallots And Potato ................................................................101 Herders Lamb Stew : Caldereta De Cordero.................................................................... 69 Lamb Curry : Kashmiri Lamb ....................................................................................171 Lamb In Egg Sauce : Abbacchio Brodettato ...................................................................... 53 Lamb Noisettes With Pea Puree : Noisettes D’agneau A La Clamart .................................... 37 Minted Lamb Patties ................................................................................................187 Mutton Curry : Xacuti De Carnerio ............................................................................. 154 Moussaka Of Lamb ................................................................................................... 85 Pan Hagglety. – Neck Chops With Potato And Onion ........................................................... 21 Shredded Lamb Stir-Fry With Noodles ..........................................................................203 Tagine Of Lamb And Prunes ........................................................................................ 24 Woman’s Thigh Kofte : Kadin Budu Kofte .......................................................................137

Pork:

Baby Back Ribs If Pork In Maple Syrup............................................................................102 Double Cooked Pork .................................................................................................204 Lemon Grass Pork ...................................................................................................188 Medallions Of Pork In Cider ...........................................................................................22 Pork And Its Liver With Masala : Sorpotel.......................................................................155 Pork With Prunes And Chestnuts ................................................................................... 86 Pork And Spicy Sausage With Beans : Cerdo Chorizo Con Veduras ....................................... 70 Pork Vindaloo..........................................................................................................172 Sorrento Style Pork Chops : Fettine Di Maiale Sorentina ..................................................... 54 Stuffed Rolls Of Pork : Roulades De Porc Estufade ............................................................. 38

Game:

Braised Rabbit In White Wine : Coniglio Con Vino Blanco ....................................................... 55 Duck Masala.......................................................................................................... 173 Garlic Roasted Quail With Honey.................................................................................189 Duck With Mushrooms : Mantalari Ordek ........................................................................... 42 Mrouzia Style Hare..................................................................................................138 Rabbit With Dijon Mustard Sauce : Le Lapin De Dijon .......................................................... 39 Roast Venison With Juniper And Rosemary Cream Sauce ..................................................... 23 Stewed Partridge With Chocolate : Perdices Estofadas Al Chocolate ....................................... 71 Stir Fried Pheasant With Pak Choi................................................................................205 Slow Cooked Duck With Chillies : Cabidela De Pato ..........................................................156 Trapper’s Rabbit Stew : Burgoo ..................................................................................103 Woodcocks In Lemon Sauce .......................................................................................... 87

212

Chicken:


Chicken Breast, Ham And Cheese : Fillitti De Pollo Alla Valdostano........................................ 56 Chicken With Spiced Almond Sauce : Gallina En Pepitoria ...................................................... 72 Chicken Maryland ...................................................................................................104 Chicken Pastillia ......................................................................................................123 Chicken Satay : Satay Ayam....................................................................................190 Chicken Vindalho..................................................................................................... 157 Chicken With Walnut Sauce : Cerkez Tavugu ..................................................................139 Coq Au Vin .............................................................................................................. 40 Herbaceous Boiled Fowl ............................................................................................... 24 Moghali Chicken.......................................................................................................174 Stuffed Chicken With Rice And Pine Nuts ......................................................................... 88 Szechuan Style Orange Peel Ckicken ............................................................................206 Tagine Of Chicken And Apricots ................................................................................... 122

Offal:

Braised Oxtail With Celery : Coda Di Bue Sendano ............................................................ 57 Braised Oxtail In Spicy Sauce ....................................................................................191 Chicken Livers On Fried Bread Crouton........................................................................... 25 Chicken Liver Rice Pilaf : IC Pilaf .................................................................................140 Chicken Livers With Cream And Hard Boiled Egg .............................................................105 Curried Kidney : Gurda Korma ..................................................................................175 Deep Fried Liver And Kidney : Run Tsa Chin Kan ............................................................207 Kidneys Au Atlas .....................................................................................................124 Kidneys In Sherry : Rinones Al Jerez ............................................................................... 73 Pig’s Liver Sticks With Straw Potatoes : Isdacs ................................................................158 Sweetbreads In Maderia .............................................................................................. 41

Veggie:

Bubble And Squeak .................................................................................................... 26 Coconut Vegetables. .................................................................................................192 Egg And Potato Curry .............................................................................................159 Five Vegetable Cous Cous ..........................................................................................125 Kerala Mixed Vegetables ...........................................................................................176 Original Baked Beans ............................................................................................... 106 Ratatoullie ............................................................................................................... 42 Spanish Piperade : Pisto Manchego ................................................................................. 74 Stuffed Vine Leaves : Dolmades ................................................................................... 89 Sweet And Sour Vegetables From Sicily : Caponata Palermintana ........................................ 58 Stuffed Beefsteak Tomatoes : Parades Dolmas ...............................................................141 Stir Fried Seasonal Vegetables ...................................................................................208

Pudding:

Apricot And Almond Sweet Pastry : Bakalava .................................................................142 Cream And Oatmealed Raspberries : Cranachan ............................................................. 27 Egg Custard In Pumpkin : Sangkaya Fak Thong ..............................................................193 Honey Dosas : Rice Pancakes.....................................................................................177 Jeweled Rice Pudding ...............................................................................................209 Knickerbocker Glory .................................................................................................107 Pear And Raisin “Bon Bouche” .....................................................................................126 Poached Peach ......................................................................................................... 43 Semolina Honey Helva ................................................................................................ 90 Spanish Bread And Butter Pudding : Torrija Bread............................................................. 75 Sweet Rice Nut Cakes : Rava Burfi .............................................................................160 Zabaglione .............................................................................................................. 59

Conversion (non Damascene) Charts Liquid (Fluid and Volume) Measurements (approximate):

1 teaspoon 1 tablespoon 2 tablespoons 1/4 cup 1/3 cup 1/2 cup 2/3 cup 3/4 cup 7/8 cup 1 cup 2 cups 4 cups 1 pint 2 pints 8 pints 4 quarts 1 litre 1 gallon

1/2 fluid ounce 1 fluid ounce 2 fluid ounces 2 2/3 fluid ounces 4 fluid ounces 5 1/3 fluid ounces 6 fluid ounces 7 fluid ounces 8 fluid ounces/ 1/2 pint 16 fluid ounces/ 1 pint 32 fluid ounces 16 fluid ounces/ 1 pint 32 fluid ounces 1 gallon/ 128 fluid ounces 1 gallon/ 128 fluid ounces 1.057 quarts 128 fluid ounces

1/3 tablespoon 3 teaspoons 1/8 cup, 6 teaspoons 4 tablespoons 5 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon 8 tablespoons 10 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons 12 tablespoons 14 tablespoons 16 tablespoons 32 tablespoons 1 quart 32 tablespoons 1 quart

Weight Measurements (approx)

Ounces (oz) 1 ounce 2 ounces 3 ounces 4 ounces 8 ounces 12 ounces 16 ounces 32 ounces 1 kilogram 35.2 ounces

Ponuds (lb)

1/4 pound 1/2 pound 3/4 pound 1 pound 2 pounds

Grams (gm) 30 grams 55 grams 85 grams 125 grams 240 grams 375 grams 454 grams 907 grams

2.2 pounds

1000 gram

5 ml 15 ml, 15 cc 30 ml, 30 cc 59 ml 79 ml 118 ml 158 ml 177 ml 207 ml 237 ml 473 ml 946 ml 473 ml 946 ml, 0.946 liters 3785 ml, 3.78 liters 3785 ml, 3.78 liters 1000 ml 3785 ml, 3.78 liters

Temperature Conversion

Fahrenheit 225°F 250°F 275°F 300°F 325°F 350°F 375°F 400°F 425°F 450°F 475°F

Celsius 110°C 120°C 140°C 150°C 160°C 180°C 190°C 200°C 220°C 230°C 240°C

Gas Mark 1/4 1/2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Heat of Oven Very cool Very cool Cool Cool Moderate Moderate Moderately hot Moderately hot Hot Hot Very hot

213

214

Just who the hell is Keith Taylor ?

Keith Taylor was born in 1939, and is quick to point out that he had nothing to do with the subsequent events in that year. His growing up years commenced in the family Hotel in Berwick upon Tweed where his love of all things Northumbrian was implanted – and so it should as this town changed hands thirteen times between the Scots and English before it became England’s most Northerly County in 1770. Educated, or programmed, at Barnard Castle public School, following both his father and grandfather, his survival instincts where finely honed, aiding his morphing into a career in International sales and Marketing ending with his own Management Consultancy business. Having met his “bride” as he still lovingly refers to her, on a Saturday in Johannesburg he promptly married her the following Wednesday as he says “just in case someone else did”. Two fine warrior sons, Angus and Jaimie, added further joy which is still evident some 43 years later. Keith and “the bride” conceived and implemented a unique restaurant in the lovely coastal village of Embleton, never serving a steak, chips or cooked vegetables, playing opera and the occasional fool. “Sara’s Kitchen” is still longingly remembered after failing health dictated its closure. Now retired, some would say he retired when he left school, Keith is fulfilling his destiny by developing into a Grumpy old man , scribbling in the hope of making enough to visit “The Olde Ship” next week, and thanks you for your help in aiding such a worthy cause.

215

Acknowledgments Dedicated to “The Bride”, my Sara without whose palate and patience you would not be reading this. Mark Fairley the gifted exponent and instigator of dynamic Design at TwoFourSeven Graphics. www.247graphics.co.uk The selfless members of Stockexchange.com for the use of their royalty free images, from photorapgers Meftah, Martyn Jones, Lize Glas, Andy Bullock and GX9 Rob from The Olde Ship Eliza Russell for her painting on page 120 and the creation of the pencil cartoon characters. Carl Weiland of his unstinting advice and guidance. Lyn Dobson for his China photographs. Friends who risked their taste buds and waistlines in test driving the recipes. Belinda at “The Full Moon”, Raj at Tanisha and Alan Millward in New Jersey for sharing their secrets. Gillian Cook for helping to keeping me on the planet. Copyright : Please seek the authors permission to reproduce any part of this book, it will be freely given.

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