HAPPI January 2011

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January 2011 Volume 48, No. 1 www.happi.com

61

FEATURES 38

Some Cosmetic Alternatives

51

Uncovering the Controversies Which Cloud Sunscreen

A look at key aesthetic medicine trends that impact skin care and cosmetics.

There is much confusion surrounding the protective benefits of sunscreen. A noted dermatologist provides insight on this important segment.

55 61 68

Alive and Kicking The natural personal care market is getting back on track after 2010.

79

Up & Coming A look at some rising stars in the skin care marketplace.

40

43

Fragrances found in today’s household cleaning products are more hip.

46

After surviving the recession, the laundry detergent category has been hurt by price wars and a dearth of innovation. But it’s beginning to improve.

Good Chemistry

A Strategic Point of View

Notes from China In a new column, Ally Dai says there are gains in skin care

Coming Clean

90

Eurotrends

Are things improving in the salon categtory?

You’ve Come a Long Way, Baby!

Come Together

Gleams & Notions

Personal cleanser sales manage to stay buoyant

Unlock the Secret To Eternal Youth

86

4 • happi

36

All about hair... and the lack thereof

Rahn screened uncharacterized as well as established cosmetic actives for their stem cell protecting properties and has observed impressive results.

73

COLUMNS

48

The Grayson Report The decade that changed the way we do business

The CSPA is more than the sum of its parts, as seen at its annual meeting.

The SCC annual meeting focused on hair styling, sun protection and more.

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Cover design: Laura Caramagna

January 2011

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DEPARTMENTS 8

Editor’s Page

32

A clean start?

10

Index to Companies A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI

12

Online at Happi.com Forget gold... here’s to silver!

14

News Front ‘Back to basics’ for personal care?

18

Formulary Pearlescent body wash base

22

VOC bill passes in California

34

Patents Rosacea and acne treatment patented by Bioderm

94

Meetings ACI annual convention is Jan. 25-29 in Florida

96

SCC News

106

IFSCC deNavarre competition to send scientist to Bangkok

98

Packaging News

Personnel Shastry named technology manager at Arizona Chemical

114

Photo News Hissyfit gifts celebs at first American Country Awards

International

100

Financial News Q1 sales jump 14% at Estée Lauder

Marketing News Taylor Swift is the face of CoverGirl NatureLuxe

101

Supplier’s Corner AkzoNobel debuts alternative to NPE industrial degreasers

102x

102

New Products OPI debuts Katy Perry, Serena Williams collections

104

Industry News L’Oréal USA acquires Peel’s

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28

MWV creates pump for Hermés scent In-Cosmetics digital effort connects industry before show

28

Regulations

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ADVERTISING SECTIONS 107

Contract Packaging/ Private Label

110

Professional Directory

111

Classified Ads

113

Advertising Index January 2011

Editor’s Page

A CLEAN START?

A

NEW YEAR,

yes, but filled with many of the same issues that have raised questions for the past couple of quarters. Take commodity prices, for example. Every one knows they are going up, but by how much? Last month, Procter & Gamble (P&G) executives told analysts that higher commodity costs and slow or flat growth in developed markets will be offset by taking business from competitors and growing in emerging markets (see HAPPI.COM). Sounds like a plan, to be sure, but P&G isn’t sitting around and hoping that sales in far-flung markets continue their upward trend. In the U.S., P&G is seeking out growth in new areas including Mr. Clean car washes and Tide dry cleaners by selling opportunities to high-wealth individuals. One of them is Andrew Cherng, founder of Panda Restaurant Group Inc., which operates Panda Express Chinese fast-food outlets in malls around the country. Cherng plans to open about 150 Tide-branded dry cleaners during the next four years. The move is only the latest by P&G to unearth growth in highly developed markets. A few years ago, P&G began testing Mr. Clean Car Wash. By the end of 2010, there were 16 of them. A few observers have questioned whether P&G should risk its trusted brand names like Tide and Mr. Clean in areas where it hasn’t had much experience. Sure, it’s risky, but sitting still and waiting for growth opportunities to emerge from well-trodden paths could be disastrous as well. The folks at Henkel certainly recognize the need for new ideas. Their Purex Complete 3-in-1 was a novel launch that proved to be a hit with consumers. Now, Henkel researchers are back with Purex Complete Crystals in an attempt to revive the static fabric softener segment. To learn more about the launch and the challenges facing the major players in the $3.6 billion detergent segment, turn to p. 79 in this issue. Of course, small can be beautiful too. That’s why, this month, associate editor Melissa Meisel interviewed some of the more innovative smaller companies in the skin care category like Freya+ and Evolution Man. Coverage begins on p. 61. Finally, we’re well aware that there are many important markets beyond U.S. borders—none more important than China. With that in mind, turn to p. 46 to read Notes from China, a new column by Ally Dai, editor of HAPPI CHINA, our sister publication based in Hong Kong. We hope you continue to rely on HAPPI and our website, HAPPI.COM, to bring you all the news you need in the new year.

Tom Branna Editorial Director [email protected]

8 • happi

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V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna, [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel, [email protected], Christine Esposito, [email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Suzanne and Bob Grayson, Colin Hession, Katie Middleweek, Patrick Ropella, Nadim Shaath CONTRIBUTING EDITORS: Renata Ashcar, Shyam Gupta, Nancy Jeffries, Vispi Kanga

PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr., [email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery, [email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar, [email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo, [email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email: [email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail: [email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner, [email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio, [email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky, [email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton, [email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo, [email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact: [email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.

A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.

January 2011

Index to Companies

• This index gives the starting

page for a department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names. 21 Drops ..................................12 Ahava .......................................55 AlixPartners .............................14 Allergan ...................................38 Alterna .....................................34 Amazon.com ...........................61 American Chemical Society ...55 American Sterilizer .................34 Aquolina ..................................40 Asda .........................................43 Aubrey Organics .....................55 Avon ........................................34 Axe ...........................................40 Bausch & Lomb ......................12 BeautyStat.com .....................104 Beiersdorf ................................40

Bioderm ...................................34 Biotone ...................................28 Booz & Company .............14, 79 Boscia .......................................55 Burberry ...................................48 C.O. Bigelow ...........................61 Celiac Sprue Association .......55 Chaz Dean ..............................55 China Assoc. of Frag. ..............46 Flavor & Cosm. Indus. Church & Dwight .................100 Ci:Labo ....................................38 Claire Fischer ..........................40 Clarisonic ...............................28 CleanGredients .....................104 Clorox ......................................73 Conopco ..................................34 Consumer Specialty ...............86 Products Association Cosmeotherapie .....................38 Coty ...................................22, 43 CoverGirl ...................12, 28, 102 Crest ........................................28 Dabur India .............................22 Datamonitor ...........................46 Dermacyte ...............................61

Avatar Corp • Dow Chemical • Katakura Chikkarin • Pilot Chemcal • Shin Etsu Silicones • Vege Tech Co. • Vevy Europe

10 • happi

Dial Corp. ................................79 Dove ........................................40 Dr. Bronner’s ...........................55 Dr Scheller ..............................43 EcoFocus Worldwide ..............14 Ecolab ......................................28 EcoTools ..................................61 Epsilon Targeting ....................79 Estée Lauder ...................22, 100 Euromonitor ......................46, 79 Evolution Man ................61, 102 Evolution of Smooth ..............55 Felissimo NY ...........................61 Filorga ......................................38 Freya+ Skincare ......................61 Gillette .....................................28 GrabGreen ............................102 Green Products Expo ...........104 Guthy-Renker .........................28 Henkel .....................8, 43, 73, 79 Henri Bendel ...........................61 Hermés ....................................98 Hissyfit ..........................102, 114 Hugo Naturals ........................55 Hydroxatone ...........................61 In-Cosmetics ...........................22 In-Trend Ltd. ...........................38 In&Out Different Beauty .......61 Innovative Cosmetic Labs ...106 Jan Marini ................................38 Johnson & Johnson ................40 Juice Beauty .............................55 Jurlique ....................................61 Kantar Worldpanel .................40 Katy Perry ..............................102 Kimberly-Clark .......................34 Kline Group ............................79 Kohl’s .......................................28 KSL Resort & Spa ...................61 L’Oréal .................38, 43, 46, 104 LaLicious ...............................102 Latisse ......................................38 Le Petit Marseillais .................40 Little Big Brands .....................79 Look Boutique at Duane ........61 Reade Lush ...................................40, 55 Luxe Pack Monaco .................98 Mama Mio ...............................55 Mary Kay Cosmetics .......28, 102 Merlot Skin Care ....................61 Method ....................................73 Mintel ................................14, 55 Namaste Laboratories ............22 Natural Products Association ..55 Neiman Marcus ...................... 61 Neutrogena .......................38, 61

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Nivea .......................................61 Nordstrom .............................102 Olay .........................................61 One Love Organics ................55 OPI ...................................43, 102 Oral-B ......................................28 Organic Monitor .....................55 Oxygen Biotherapeutics, Inc.... 61 P&G ........8, 28, 34, 34, 43, 46, 79 Padina Cosmetics ................... 55 Physicians Formula ..............102 Pine-Sol ...................................73 Piret & Tamara........................... 12 Pledge ......................................28 Pratima Avurvedic Skincare ...61 Pravana Naturceuticals ........102 Proactiv ....................................28 Purex ..................................73, 79 Ramy ......................................102 Recettes Mediterranéenes .....40 Reckitt Benckiser ..................106 Reivtalash ................................38 Restylane Skincare .................38 Right Guard ............................43 RoC ..........................................38 Safeway ...................................55 SC Johnson .......................28, 34 Scentsy ....................................28 Schlecker .................................43 SeneGence International......... 61 Sephora ...................................61 Seventh Generation ...............79 Shea Terra Organics ................61 Sinful Colors .........................102 Skin 2 Skin Care .....................61 Society of Cosmetic Chemists .90 Studio at Fred Segal ...............61 Summit Brands .......................28 Sun Products Corp. .........79, 104 SymphonyIRI Group ........40, 79 Tarte .........................................55 TheBalm ................................102 Three Custom Color .............102 Tide ..........................................79 Unilever .............................34, 40 Unipro ..................................... 40 Urban Decay ...........................48 Vaseline ...................................28 VB Cosmetics ........................114 Vera Wang ...............................28 Vichy ........................................38 Walgreens ................................61 Walmart ................................... 43 Wen ..........................................55 Wet Ones .................................28 WSL Strategic Retail ............106 Yankee Candle ......................100 January 2011


 
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NATURALS • SUN CARE • PRESERVATION

innovating possibility ™

Online at Happi.com

FORGET GOLD… HERE’S TO SILVER! • During the past decade, men’s and women’s opinions have changed regarding the aging process. Men have embraced the look of today’s modern “cool, yet distinguished”gentleman—think George Clooney or Gerard Butler; while actresses such as Meryl Streep and Sophia Loren show that age is nothing but a number. Even trendsetter Lady Gaga recently rocked the cover of Vanity Fair with dyed gray tresses. Hair care marketers are tuning into the demands of aging consumers who want to stay attractive—not necessarily turn back the clock—by maintaining their clean, shiny tresses. Visit HAPPI.COM to find out more about the products that make it okay to be gray.

A Return to Wellness—Drop by Drop by Drop • Cary Caster wants the world to know the benefits of essential oils. Armed with a degree in horticulture and 25 years of experience in aromatherapy, she’s created 21 Drops, a line of therapeutic grade essential oils that are designed to ease 21 universal concerns such as lethargy, hangovers and headaches. Products contain 3-5% essential oil in a jojoba carrier, are attractively packaged and accessible to everyone.

Chic and Simple • When it comes to creative writing, the first suggestion is to always write what you know. The same advice applies to the beauty industry. For example, no one knows color cosmetics better than industry professionals themselves. When makeup artists Piret Aava and Tamara Palumbo of Greenwich, CT set out to create a line to meet their own needs, they spent countless hours looking at women’s eyes and time and time again they spotted the same problems: creased, smudged, misapplied eyeshadow. They set out to create a makeup line that solved that issue and other common beauty problems.

Clean that Screen! • More touch-screen devices like Apple’s iPad, Verizon’s Android and Barnes & Noble’s Nook are making their way into consumers dirty (and germ-ridden) hands. From big names like Bausch & Lomb to smaller companies focused on green formulations, HAPPI looks at gadget-friendly products that promise to clean smudges and kill germs that lurk on consumer electronics.

What’s New in the AP/deo Market • Never let them see you sweat, but with little or no job growth and more economic turmoil in the forecast, it’s hard not to. No wonder then, that mass market sales of AP/deos rose 2.7% during the past year to nearly $1.3 billion, according to data from SymphonyIRI Group. Visit HAPPI.COM to find what brands are rolling out new products.

Beauty Blog: CoverGirl Lip Perfection Lipstick • Perfect color is simply not enough for today’s cosmetic customer—they want it all, including improving texture and condition. CoverGirl is stepping up to the plate with its new Lip Perfection Lipstick ($7.50), which debuts this month. According to CoverGirl, its Silk Therapy Complex works in combination to help improve lip condition. In fact, P&G says consumers will notice improved moisturization after just seven days of use. Find out what ingredients are behind that promise—at HAPPI.COM • 12 • happi

happi.com

January 2011

New & Unique Silicone Cross - Reference Search Tool


     

SM

www.chemsil.com The Chemsil Equivalent search function was designed with the personal care industry in mind. ENTER any silicone suppliers tradename, number or INCI name CLICK RESULTS . . . Find Your Silicone Solutions

*Patent Pending

News Front

‘BACK TO BASICS’ FOR PERSONAL CARE? • American consumers are going “back to basics” when it comes to their personal care, planning to spend more on shampoo, toothpaste, deodorant and shaving cream, while cutting back on items like perfume, makeup and lipstick, according to a survey conducted by AlixPartners LLP, New York. Though the bulk of the 1,000 consumers surveyed by the company said they plan on spending roughly the same on personal care in 2011 as they did in 2010, nearly one in five plan to spend less on fragrances, half of whom expect to cut such spending by more than 25%. While only 15% said they would cut back on cosmetics, nearly half of these consumers anticipate cutting spending by 25% or more. Demand for oral, skin and hair care products is expected to increase in 2011, though not markedly, noted the company. “Given the stagnant demand, personal care products companies are facing pressure from customers to drive prices lower. This environment is likely to continue well into 2011,”said David Garfield, a managing director at AlixPartners and head of the firm’s consumer products practice. “In response, companies have adjusted their cost structures and cut prices in many categories, but this will become increasingly difficult in the coming quarters.” But there is a glimmer of hope for makers of cosmetics, fragrances and oral, hair and skin care products. When factoring in demographics, most 18-34 year olds plan to ratchet up spending across all five categories in 2011. “Incremental demand for personal care products likely will be dictated by 18-34 year-olds over the next 12 months,”said Rich Vitaro, a director in the consumer products practice at AlixPartners. “Though somewhat promising, the industry dynamic is a double-edged sword. This group is ultra price-sensitive and expects to pay less per unit through aggressive promotions and everyday low prices. They’re also a group that is more apt than older consumers to switch brands to get the best value. That’s why marketing and trade promotion effectiveness will be the key levers in generating growth.” The vast majority of consumers in the survey said they are looking for more items on sale, supporting the idea that price appears to be the dominant theme driving buying behavior, regardless of age. Approximately 40% of customers expressed a potential interest in switching brands to capture meaningful savings. And a word to wise: keep your products on the shelf. The survey found that when consumers’ desired product is out of stock, 1525% of the time, depending on product category, they purchase another brand. According to Jon Hanover, a director in AlixPartners’ consumer goods practice, this fact “highlights the importance of supply chain efficiency for replenishment and the potential lost sales and costs associated with out-of-stocks at both the time of sale and potentially in the future.” “This survey, along with additional AlixPartners research done for the study, suggests that many retailers and consumer products companies in the personal care market are going to be under increasing pressure in the year ahead, particularly makers of fragrances and cosmetics,” added Garfield. “As consumers continue to demand value, companies will need to focus on cost structures.” More info: www.alixpartners.com

Mood Matters in Fragrance Purchases • While factors influencing fragrance purchase for women may be well known (think price, celebrity endorsement or season), the latest research from Mintel reveals that the biggest influence may not be a fixed factor at all. It seems mood is now the most popular motivator of scent choice for women. According to Mintel, more than half (54%) of female fragrance users decide what fragrance to use based on how they’re feeling. Some 31% of fragrance users say they decide which fragrance to apply based on their activity, such as work function versus a personal outing. Meanwhile, 26% of users decide based on the time of day and 25% decide based on what they’re wearing. However, those over 45 appear to be less moody—when it comes to scent choice. They are more likely to wear one fragrance, or a signature scent, and are less likely to base their choice on their clothing or mood, according to Mintel. “Women in the 18-44 age range are more prone to change their fragrance based on a number of different factors, while women over 45 are more brand loyal,”said Kat Fay, Mood affects fragrance selection, says Mintel. 14 • happi

happi.com

January 2011

Introducing our two NEW sizes

205x710 205x604

211x713

211x 604

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News Front

senior beauty analyst at Mintel.“This may be a result of these younger women juggling multiple activities and responsibilities with a busy work schedule. While they may deem a certain scent appropriate for the office, they might choose a more flirty scent for social functions.” While motivation for fragrance purchases differs, the clear favorite is in-store samples. According to Mintel, 69% of fragrance owners say they’re motivated to purchase a new fragrance based on samples they’ve tried in-store, while 26% cite a recommendation from a family member or friend as the impetus behind a new purchase. “Women have to experience a scent to make sure it’s appropriate, as there aren’t many objective criteria they can use to test smell,” explained Fay.“Female consumers often say that a fragrance smells differently on their skin than it does out of the bottle, so trying an in-store sample increases the likelihood that they’ll still be happy with their purchase once they get it home.” More info: www.mintel.com

Opportunities in Green Cleaning Market • According to new consumer research on household cleaning products by EcoFocus Worldwide, corporations have huge new market opportunities in the “green” cleaning product space. The findings, which are based on the EcoFocus 2010 U.S. Trend Survey of 4,500-plus Americans ages 18 to 65, show that features related to the health of the environment and to personal health are the most desirable when purchasing green cleaning products today. For 71% of buyers, biodegradable ingredients are at the top of their shopping list; followed by hypoallergenic ingredients for 67% of buyers, said EcoFocus. Around half of shoppers find plant-based cleaners and those made without chemical dyes or fragrances to be desirable, according to the St. Petersburg, FL-based firm. “Shoppers are looking for manufacturers to give them more choices by creating green products using their brand’s recognized expertise. This is a significant opportunity for traditional CPG companies with longstanding reputations as experts in cleaning,” noted Linda Gilbert, chief executive officer of EcoFocus Worldwide. According to EcoFocus, too often, green products focus on communicating environmentally friendly attributes and forget to make it easy to tell fabric softener from detergent, for example. EcoFocus suggests that manufacturers need to focus on product performance for the mainstream consumer. “Consumers tend to perceive greener cleaning products as being less effective than their counterparts,”stated Lisa Harrison, consumer insights and research leader for EcoFocus.“It is critical for corporations to disprove these perceptions by waiting until they develop high performing products rather than rushing to market with inferior products that consumers try once and abandon. After a bad experience, getting them back into the category, let More emphasis on alone to your brand, will be difficult.”
 performance would According to EcoFocus, shoppers also want manufacturers to help educate them about green by telling them benefit the green how to recycle packaging, and what makes this choice greener than the next one through effective labeling.
 cleaning category. More info: www.ecofocusworldwide.com

Is American Frugality Lingering? • The frugal habits adopted by U.S. consumers during the economic crisis of 2008-2009 have continued and even deepened in some cases, and may be here to stay, according to the latest annual survey of 2,000 consumers by Booz & Company. The third annual Booz & Company consumer spending report revealed that U.S. consumers continue to feel they are on shaky ground, fueled by high unemployment and feelings of uncertainty, even among those who are employed. As a result, consumers are economizing broadly, deferring spending on discretionary items, and trading down on essentials. In fact, most consumers cut back spending even more this year than last, according to Booz & Company. The survey also found more affluent consumers are less willing to trade down on price or prestige than the less affluent. “The new frugality that consumers reported last year—one that requires trade-offs between price, brand and convenience—has become dominant and ingrained behavior in several categories,” said Booz & Company partner Nick Hodson.“Consumer products companies and retailers need to monitor and understand the evolving behaviors of different consumer segments and respond to each, category by category. Going back to business as usual is not an option.” According to the survey, cutbacks on both discretionary spending and essentials this year were again significant, and even greater than the previous year. For example, in health and beauty, 28% cut back spending vs. 25% in 2009 and in household products, 28% reduced spending vs. 21% in 2009. Consumers also continue to trade down on essentials by switching to less expensive brands. For example, this year’s survey found that 39% continue to trade down on household products and 37% said they traded down on food at home, similar levels compared to last year’s survey. 16 • happi

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January 2011

News Front

While U.S. consumers across the board continue to economize overall, spending behaviors seem to vary among consumer segments. For example, more affluent consumers continue to defer purchases of discretionary items, but are not necessarily trading down in terms of price or prestige when they do buy. Conversely, less affluent consumers (those with household incomes less than $100,000 per year) are more likely to reduce spending by trading down. In non-discretionary categories, less affluent consumers were much more likely to trade down in brands or prestige than more affluent con- Has frugality become ingrained behavior? sumers. In household products, for example, 41% of less wealthy consumers traded down to cut spending last year, while only 30% of more affluent consumers took that step. “Consumers continue to pay down debt and build up their savings. There is little reason to believe that consumers will give up their frugal behaviors in the short term. Consumers remain cautious, especially following their disappointment with the slow pace of improvement over the past year,” noted Marcelo Tau, principal at Booz & Company. According to Booz & Company’s analysis, newly frugal purchasing behaviors are most likely to persist in those categories where consumers felt that their frugal behavior was “unpunished,”such as with private label items purchased at the supermarket. When the economy rebounds, Booz & Company expects private label sales will remain strong and branded consumer packaged goods may find it difficult to regain their lost market share. In contrast, some frugal behaviors are not likely to stick as conditions improve. In discretionary categories including cosmetics, consumers often found that switching to cheaper brands was an undesirable trade-off and plan to switch back post-economic recovery, Booz & Company said. More info: www.booz.com •

January 2011

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happi • 17

Formulary

PEARLESCENT BODY WASH BASE The HallStar Company (877) 427-4255 • (312) 385-4494 Email: [email protected] www.hallstar.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Water (deionized) Phase B Jaguar C-162 (Rhodia) (Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) Phase C Mirataine BET-C 30 (Rhodia) (Cocamidopropyl betaine) Phase D RTD Coco Sulfate (HallStar) (Sodium coco-sulfate) HallStar GDS (HallStar) (Glyceryl distearate) Alkamide C-212 (Rhodia) (Cocamide MEA) Propylene glycol USP (Lyondell) HallStar PEG 400 ML (HallStar) (PEG-8 laurate) Phase E CoSept 200 (HallStar) (Quaternium-15) Phase F Citric acid (Citric acid, USP FCC (50% aq)) Phase G Fragrance Phase H Dye

%WT.

phase H as desired. Mix and cool until uniform and at desired filling temperature and then perform final quality assurance checks. PROPERTIES (25°C): Appearance—Pearlescent rich lotion; Viscosity (Brookfield, Model RV, T-Bar D, 5, 20 & 100 rpm; cP)— 16000, 8900 & 4200; pH—5.37; Foam Quantity (blender, 10 sec; cups)—1-1/4; Foam Instability (liquid from foam after five minutes; % vol)—29.

74.98 0.30

Clear, Temperature Resistant Air Freshener, Ultra High Fragrance Load

8.64

Arizona Chemical (904) 928-8884 • Fax: (904) 928-8779 Email: [email protected] www.arizonachemical.com

9.00 1.00 2.00 1.55 2.03 0.15 0.35 q.s.

INGREDIENTS Phase A Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) Sylvaclear IM700 (Arizona Chemical) Sylvaclear IM800 (Arizona Chemical) Phase B Fragrance (Belmay) (Red Currant) Phase C Desmodur N 3300A or N 3600 (Bayer) (Isocyanurate)

%WT. 10.00 13.00 18.20 7.80 4.00

q.s.

PROCEDURE: To main vessel add phase A. Start strong mixing and slowly add phase B to promote dispersion without clumping. When fully dispersed (no lumps), add phase C and commence heating to 74–77°C (165–170°F). When batch is over 70°C (158°F), add phase D ingredients in order. After 30 minutes (when uniform), cool to 40°C (104°F) and add phase E. Then add phase F incrementally as needed to bring pH to 5.0–5.5. Add phase G and

PROCEDURE: Mix phase A at room temperature. Add phase B at room temperature and mix. Add phase C and continue to mix. Pour into molds and allow to set. Note: Cure rate is dependent on ratio of IM700 to IM800. PROPERTIES: Air fresheners are clear; dyes can be added for color. Air fresheners remain solid below 60°C for extended periods and below 100°C for brief intervals. Lifetime of gel is largely determined by the fragrance used.

Product formulas are supplied by producers of raw materials. Included in some

Anti-Cellulite Body Lotion

instances are sources of supply for the raw materials and instructions for preparation and use of the finished product. No guarantee of performance or

Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH 
 +49 201 173-2854 • Fax: +49 201 173-1828
 Email: [email protected] www.evonik.com/personal-care

safety is implied by Happi. For more complete details, readers should contact the suppliers directly using the telephone number or website provided with each formula. If your company has a formula that you think would be of interest to readers of Happi, marketers of soaps and detergents; cosmetics and toiletries; fragrances; waxes and polishes; disinfectants and sanitizers and other chemical specialties, we will be pleased to consider it for publication. Address all material to: Formulary Editor, Happi, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA; Email: [email protected].

18 • happi

INGREDIENTS Phase A Tego Care LTP (Evonik) (Sorbitan laurate; polyglyceryl4 laurate; dilauryl citrate)

happi.com

%WT. 1.50

January 2011

Formulary

Tegosoft CI (Evonik) (Cetearyl isononanoate) Tegosoft DEC (Evonik) (Diethylhexyl carbonate) Tegosoft OP (Evonik) (Ethylhexyl palmitate) Tego Xymenynic (Evonik) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride; xymenynic acid (proposed)) Tego Carbomer 140 (Evonik) Tego Carbomer 141 (Evonik) Xanthan gum Phase B Caffeine Glycerin Water Phase C Sodium hydroxide (10% in water) Phase Z Preservative, perfume

10.00 3.50 1.10 2.00

gredients. Mix until uniform. If necessary, adjust to pH 5.5—6.0. Discontinue batch.

Stick with Me Sunscreen Formulation 1366

0.15 0.15 0.10

Dow Corning Corporation (989) 496-6000 • Fax: (989) 496-5508 Email: [email protected] www.dowcorning.com/content/personal/

1.00 3.00 77.50 q.s. q.s.

PROCEDURE: Mix ingredients of phase A. Combine phases A and B without stirring. Homogenize. Add phases C and Z and stir well.

Age-Killing Effect Day Cream With SYN-Ake Centerchem, Inc. 203-822-9800 • Fax: (203) 822-9820 www.centerchem.com INGREDIENTS %WT. Phase A Abil Care 85 (Evonik)(Bis-PEG/PPG-167/16 1.50 PEG/PPG dimethicone (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride) Teginacid C (Evonik) (Ceteareth-20) 1.00 Tego Alkanol 1618 (Evonik) (Cetearyl alcohol) 2.00 Tego Alkanol 16 (Evonik) (Cetyl alcohol) 2.00 Pristerene 9559 (Uniqema) (Stearic acid) 1.00 Tegosoft MM (Evonik) (Myristyl myristate) 2.00 Pelemol 89 (Phoenix) (2-ethylhexyl isononanoate) 4.00 Myritol 331 (Cognis) (Cocoglycerides) 4.00 Phase B Deionized water 73.00 Structure XL (National Starch) (Hydroxypropyl 1.00 starch phosphate) Phase C Rita Glycerin USP (RITA) (Glycerin) 4.00 SYN-Ake (DSM-Pentapharm/Centerchem) 4.00 Diocide (Centerchem) 0.50

INGREDIENTS: %WT. Phase A Crodacol CS-50 (Croda Inc.) (Cetearyl alcohol) 27 Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter) 2 Dow Corning HY-3050 soy wax (Dow Corning) 14 (Hydrogenated soybean polyglycerides (and) C15-23 alkane) Dow Corning FZ-3196 (Dow Corning) (Caprylyl methicone) 6 Dow Corning EL-8051 IN silicone organic 3 elastomer blend (Dow Corning) (Isodecyl neopentanoate (and) dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer) Dow Corning 556 cosmetic grade fluid (Dow Corning) 5 (Phenyl trimethicone) Dow Corning AMS-C30 cosmetic wax (Dow Corning) 3 (C30-45 alkyl methicone (and) C30-45 olefin) Phase B Crodamol GTCC (Croda) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) 13 Crodamol AB (Croda Inc.) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) 12 Neo Heliopan 303 (Symrise) (Octocrylene) 7 Octyl salicylate 5 Neo Heliopan 357 (Symrise) (Butyl 3 methoxydibenzoylmethane) PROCEDURE: Combine phase A ingredients and heat to 80°C with mixing until all ingredients are melted and mixture is uniform. In a separate vessel, combine phase B ingredients and warm gently while stirring until clear. Add phase B to phase A and mix. Pour into suitable containers while hot. Cool mixture to room temperature.•

PROCEDURE: Heat phase A and phase B separately to 80°C. Add phase A to phase B with moderate mixing. Mix 5 minutes. Homogenize. Begin cool down with mixing. At 40°C, add phase C in20 • happi

happi.com

Upcoming Features in HAPPI February The Annual Buyer’s Guide Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner

March Sun Care Market Hair Styling Trends

January 2011

In touch. Impassioned. The global megatrend toward a lifestyle of wellness and sustainability is overwhelming. So is our drive to create sustainable and innovative personal and home care solutions. For you, non-stop, everywhere.

is

Cognis – SF t of BA now par

COGNIS GmbH, Phone +49 211 79400 COGNIS Corporation, Phone +1 800 531 0815 Customer service +1 800 336 6775 [email protected], www.cognis.com

International

IN-COSMETICS’ DIGITAL EFFORT CONNECTS INDUSTRY • UNITED KINGDOM: In-Cosmetics has enhanced its digital presence through an integrated social networking campaign. LinkedIn, Twitter, the company’s own blog site and brand new digital tool, Connect, will not only help to build the show’s reputation but will also improve awareness of the event among visitors and exhibitors for the event, which will be held March 29-31, 2011 in Milan. The aim of the LinkedIn group (www.in-cosmetics.com/linkedin) is to facilitate communication and ideas sharing between likeminded industry professionals. The growing database of more than 1,150 key contacts can be regularly updated with relevant show developments, plus the discussion forum means that exhibitors and visitors can share insights with one another. The organizers are also using the platform as a means of gaining feedback from all stakeholders to ensure the show is meeting their key objectives. Meanwhile, the Twitter page (www. twitter.com/incosmetics) is intended to facilitate continuous communication and

open up a reciprocal and instantaneous dialogue between In-Cosmetics and its followers. To date, topics have included the latest show features, hot products to hit the industry shelves and links to the latest news. “We have undertaken extensive research into the communication channels that our target exhibitor and visitor audience make use of and ascertained that digital and social platforms are becoming increasingly important,” said Cathy Laporte, In-Cosmetics group marketing manager.“We now recognize that online networking is absolutely integral to our marketing communications. As the leading personal care ingredients event, it is essential that we tap into every possible tool to keep people abreast of the latest show developments.” For the first time this year, the organizers of the show have also launched an exclusive blog at www.in-cosmetics.com/ blog. The page sits on the In-Cosmetics website and features contributions from some of the most revered experts in the industry. Scientists, consultants, heads of

associations and journalists have all shared their personal opinions on issues of great relevance to the personal care ingredients industry. Most recently, Carrie Leonard from Euromonitor International wrote about the future of the Japanese beauty industry, Anna Ibbotson from Kline provided some good-to-know stats on the cosmetic and toiletries industry, while a number of highprofile journalists examined topics including natural versus the knife, innovation and the post-recession beauty industry. Also making its debut onto the In-Cosmetics social media scene this year is the brand new tool called Connect. Connect provides exhibitors and pre-registered visitors with a diary, a detailed search facility and a fully integrated email system to network and arrange meetings. Users can also add a personal profile and save seminars, products or any other website content of interest, to their favorites. This will prove to be an invaluable tool for visitors and exhibitors at the show. “Our aim is to make 2011 the most in-

Estée Lauder’s Spokesmodel Liu Wen Debuts in China • CHINA: Liu Wen made her official debut as an Estée Lauder global spokesmodel in Beijing to launch the new Pure Color makeup collection. Joined by Estée Lauder executives Jane Hertzmark Hudis, global brand president, Aerin Lauder, senior vice president, creative director, and Tom Pecheux, creative, makeup director, Wen was honored as the brand’s latest spokesmodel at a major launch event at Ch’ianmen 23 in central Beijing. She was also feted at a private dinner hosted by Vogue China, before holding interviews with international and Chinese media. In honor of her visit to China for Lauder, Pecheux created an exclusive limited edition collection of makeup products. Pure Color Metamorphosis evokes the unspoken glamour and strength of the modern Chinese woman and was unveiled with an advertising image of Wen created specifically for China, according to the company. World-renowned photographer Craig McDean shot the ad. Wen, the first Chinese model the brand has signed, will appear in Estée Lauder advertising campaigns globally beginning this month. “China is our fastest growing market,” said Hertzmark Hudis. “We are certain Liu Wen will resonate with the brand’s Chinese Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux introduces Estée Lauder global consumers as well as our consumers around the world.” spokesmodel Liu Wen at the Pure Color launch event in Beijing, China. 22 • happi

happi.com

January 2011

NEW DATE:

June 28-30, 2011 Jacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY

Where Beauty

Meets Business

To reserve your exhibit space, contact your sales representative today. Ellen Evers, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE [email protected] 201.788.0352 Kevin Roach, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE [email protected] 609.759.7607 Emanuela Treneva, INTERNATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR [email protected] +33 (0) 1 73 28 14 76

International

teractive In-Cosmetics to-date,” said Laporte. We’ve been delighted with the interest that the industry has show in our various new online platforms and are hoping to capitalize on this as much as we can before the show.”

Coty’s Shopping Spree Moves to China CHINA: On the heels of its OPI, Dr. Scheller Cosmetics AG and Philosophy purchases, Coty Inc. inked a deal to acquire a majority stake in TJoy, a leading skin care company in China. According to Coty, this latest investment extends its skin care business by providing it with a solid foothold in China through TJoy’s existing distribution channels, and also gives it a platform to expand its R&D capabilities. Since its launch in 1995, the TJoy product line has “established incredibly strong

•

brand recognition in the Chinese market while maintaining a distinctive brand image that will be further strengthened with the new Coty involvement,” the company said. “The TJoy investment positions Coty as a major player in China, solidifying our position as a global beauty leader. TJoy and Pure Plant Extract are sublime additions to the Coty skin care portfolio, and only make our portfolio stronger,” said Bernd Beetz, chief executive officer of Coty Inc. “We are excited by this investment in TJoy and look forward to welcoming the TJoy employees into the worldwide Coty family.” Chuang Wen Yang, chairman and founder of TJoy, said, “The combination of TJoy and Coty is an important milestone for TJoy and is a ‘win-win’ situation for everyone. I am very confident that our combined businesses will enjoy rapid growth through Coty’s global reach and marketing expert-

ise. And together, our brands will continue to achieve great things.” The combined company will accelerate the growth of Coty products, including Adidas and Rimmel, as well as strengthen Coty’s innovative pipeline of products by furthering its presence in the Chinese market.

Dabur India Acquires Namaste Laboratories • INDIA: Dabur India Ltd. acquired Namaste Laboratories, LLC, the Blue Island, IL maker of Organic Root Stimulator. The deal came through Dabur’s U.S.-based wholly-owned subsidiary, Dermoviva Skin Essentials Inc. The transaction, subject to customary conditions including regulatory reviews and approvals, was expected to close by the end of 2010. The current management team, led by Namaste founder and chief executive of-

Some people would go to any lengths to diminish the signs of aging.

Unique ingredie nts, found deep in the sea

International

ficer Gary Gardner, will continue to run the operations of the Namaste business. The sales team, including broker representatives, will remain in place, and existing relationships with retailers, wholesalers, distributors and suppliers will not change, according to the firm.

CPL Aromas Moves To New Facility in Paris • FRANCE: Following years of sustained growth in the division, CPL Aromas France has moved into a new facility in Paris. The new creative center, located in the Suresnes district, boasts a new and creative perfumery laboratory together with R&D and analytical facilities, according to CPL. The new center also houses the sales and marketing activities of CPL Aromas in France. CPL Aromas has maintained a significant presence in the French market for many years and this new facility follows on

from the growth seen recently. “The investment in a new creative center demonstrates our commitment to deliver outstanding customer service to our clients and provides our staff with an excellent working environment with which to produce beautiful and successful fragrances,” said Khaled Boutaleb, managing director of CPL France. The new center in Paris serves as a perfumery and development center, not only for the French market, but also as a center of excellence where fine fragrances are developed for the entire CPL Aromas group. The new premises are located at: 33, Rue Benoit Malon, 92150, Suresnes, Paris; Tel.: +33 1 70394858; Fax: +33 1 47727011.

Arch Chemicals Launches New Company in India INDIA: Arch Chemicals, Inc. has expanded its marketing presence and estab-

•

lished new manufacturing capabilities in India with the formation of a new Indian subsidiary, Arch Protection Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. (APCPL). Capitalizing on the indigenous availability of raw materials and cost-effective production, APCPL will offer world-class biocide products and services that are tailored to meet the needs of Indian customers and climatic conditions, the company said in a press statement. “Arch is already supplying major international accounts in India with biocide products and our popular antidandruff agent, and we see tremendous opportunities here for further growth,” said Saravana Kumar, Arch’s India country manager. “APCPL has been formed to serve the biocides needs of esteemed customers in varied segments, including coatings, emulsions, adhesives, metalworking fluids, textiles and auxiliaries, disinfectant

At Lipo®, we call them scientists®. Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at Lipo, we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and platforms that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and depths—to find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. After all, beauty may be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to look beneath the surface.

BEAUTY IS OUR SCIENCE® www.lipochemicals.com

International

and hygiene applications as well as personal care products and cosmetics. To be successful in India it is essential to establish a local operation to access the highly skilled workforce and diverse raw material resources.” More info: www.archbiocides.com

Dow Corning, Wacker Open Chinese Silicone Site • CHINA: After four years of construction, Dow Corning Corp. and Wacker Chemie AG officially inaugurated their joint integrated silicone manufacturing site in Zhangjiagang, Jiangsu province, China. The facility will serve fast-growing demand for silicone materials in China and Asia, according to the companies. The combined $1.8 billion investment—covering 1 million square meters— is China’s largest facility of this kind and is among the world’s biggest and most advanced integrated silicone production sites. The integrated site includes a siloxane plant and a pyrogenic silica plant, both of which are jointly owned by Dow Corning and Wacker. The site also features finished silicone production plants that are owned and operated independently by each company. Siloxane and pyrogenic silica are key ingredients in the manufacture of finished silicone products. Silicone-based materials are used in nearly all sectors of China’s booming economy, including cosmetics and personal care products, as well automotive, construction, electronics, power generation and distribution, solar energy and textiles. The combined capacity for siloxane and pyrogenic silica is expected to reach approximately 210,000 metric tons a year. The landmark project began in 2006, and the first phase of raw material production was launched in 2008. The innovative joint-venture approach, operating shared facilities, offers economies of scale through the sharing of power, utilities and subsequent efficiencies. The integrated production technology plays an important role in reducing emissions and logistical efficiency, according to the companies. During an opening ceremony held at 26 • happi

the site, Dr. Stephanie Burns, chairman and chief executive officer of Dow Corning Corporation, and Dr. Rudolf Staudigl, president and chief executive officer of Wacker Chemie AG, emphasized the strategic importance of the manufacturing site. “Today’s inauguration of our integrated silicone manufacturing site represents a milestone for both companies,” Dr. Burns said. “While the economic environment has changed a lot since we broke ground here four years ago, our commitment to and faith in China’s future has never changed.” Added Dr. Staudigl,“The site enables us to serve our customers’ needs, to support the development of the silicone industry in China, to further grow our local business, and to contribute to China’s circular economy which is an important part in China’s commitment to sustainable development.”

In-Cosmetics Asia In Bangkok a Success • THAILAND:

The 2010 edition of InCosmetics Asia, which was held in Bangkok, attracted a record 4,691 visitors. The attendance figures are up 35% on the last Bangkok exhibition back in 2008, and more than double the Singapore show in 2009, according to show organizers, Reed Exhibitions. The show also attracted the highest number of international attendees ever with more 1,700 international visitors (37%) with South Korea, Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines, Singapore, China, Japan and India all well represented. This reflects the growing importance of the show among manufacturers, suppliers and research laboratories across the industry, organizers said. “Over the course of the three days, the exhibition hall buzzed with business meetings, presentations and product demonstrations with visitors eager to absorb new information,”said In-Cosmetics Asia exhibition manager, Sarah Gibson.“In-Cosmetics Asia successfully brought delegates from geographically and culturally diverse regions together to explore new opportunities in the heart of the booming Asian economy.” happi.com

According to show organizers, 232 companies from more than 25 countries worldwide signed up to showcase their latest innovations to a captive audience. In addition, the Facial Beauty Conference, held during the second day of the exhibition, brought together international experts to present papers on skin-whitening, anti-aging and anti-acne issues. Plans are already underway for In-Cosmetics Asia 2011, which will be held Nov. 24. The organizers will be hosting the event in the same week as the IFSCC Conference, bringing together the ingredients and finished product manufacturing industries.

Evonik Joins BDIH Sustainability Initiative • GERMANY: The integration of sustainability into corporate practices is an important tool without which a successful business will no longer be viable in the future. This is why the National Association of German Industrial and Commercial Enterprises (BDIH) has created a sustainability initiative, which Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH is joining and to which it is contributing its expertise. To kick off the initiative, raw materials suppliers for the cosmetics industry met at a professional conference in Mannheim, Germany on Nov. 10, 2010 to share information about sustainability in discussion groups and presentations and to present products and procedures already in use. Evonik’s Care Specialties Business Line was represented by sustainability team leader Peter Becker, who focused on sustainable technologies and gave a presentation on enzymatic esterification. The comparative depiction of this technology shows, in addition to qualitative differences, significant ecological advantages over conventional manufacturing techniques. These products are in a position to reach our customers’ specified emissions targets, noted Becker. The most recent development from this area is oleyl erucate, a major component of jojoba oil. In addition to its skin care properties, this ester makes it possible for manufacturers to reduce color and odor fluctuations. • January 2011

Marketing News

TAYLOR SWIFT IS THE FACE OF COVERGIRL NATURELUXE • Multi-platinum artist and four-time Grammy award-winning star Taylor Swift will represent new CoverGirl NatureLuxe, billed as a “new generation of luxury makeup” by P&G. Swift, who was first announced as a CoverGirl spokesmodel in May, will appear in NatureLux ads this month as the line hits retailers.

Award-winning actress and star on TV Land’s “Hot in Cleveland” Wendie Malick is the team’s leader. Team members include Kari Elle Aceto (Green Valley Lake, CA), Kailani Okamoto (Ewa Bach, HI) and Michelle Lee (Ashville, NC). The Vaseline Facebook page features profiles of the Dry Skin Patrol members, a forum where dry skin sufferers can submit questions to the team, rescue a friend from dry skin by sending a virtual gift and request a free product sample.

• P&G has signed a multi-year partnership with National Hockey League (NHL) star Alex Ovechkin to serve as a Gillette brand ambassador. Ovechkin will appear in advertising and marketing activities in support of the world’s leading male grooming brand in Russia and Eastern Europe and will collaborate with Gillette to create charity programs that will contribute to youth hockey development in the region, as well as the Washington, D.C. area. Ovechkin, who plays for the Washington Capitals, won the Lester B. Pearson Award in 2008, 2009 and 2010. The award is presented annually to the “most outstanding player” in the NHL as voted by fellow members of the National Hockey League Players’ Association. The first campaign includes two television commercials along with print and online advertisements, as well as pointof-sale materials featuring Ovechkin’s name and likeness. “We are looking forward to working with him in Russia and Eastern Europe to help us launch the latest addition to the Gillette Fusion family and the new series of Gillette products for sensitive skin,” said Svetlana Stishkova, Gillette marketing director, Russia. Taylor Swift is the new face of CoverGirl NatureLuxe.

• During the past 10 years, Mary Kay Cosmetics has increased “Taylor’s naturally polished and beautiful look fits perfectly with the new luxury makeup line,” said Vince Hudson, general manager, CoverGirl Cosmetics.“We specifically designed this line for women who, just like Taylor, want high quality products that flatter her lifestyle and environment. NatureLuxe provides luxury that isn’t extravagant, but rather simple, modern elegance that is inspired by nature.”

• Vaseline Intensive Rescue’s Dry Skin Patrol—a group of real life women selected by the brand because they have dry skin—is on the road, traveling the country to take part in some pretty brutal dry-skin torture tests in some of America’s driest, coldest and itchiest places. So far, they have stopped at the Philadelphia Marathon (Nov. 21, 2010), Aspen Winternational (Nov. 27-28, 2010) and the famed Coney Island Polar Bear Plunge on New Year’s Day. Next up is the Beargrease Dogsled Marathon in Duluth, MN (Jan. 29). At the events, Vaseline is giving out free samples and offering skin care advice. 28 • happi

its Latina independent sales force by 39%. Mary Kay credits this growth to values it shares with Latinas. When Mary Kay Ash founded her business in 1963, she stressed to the independent sales force—made up of only 9% women at that time—the importance of faith, family and career.

• Kohl’s Corporation will expand Simply Vera Vera Wang into cosmetics by Spring 2012 in Kohl’s stores nationwide and Kohls.com. At launch, the Simply Vera Vera Wang cosmetics line will include makeup and color, skin care, bath and body products and beauty accessories. First licensed by a subsidiary of Vera Wang Group to Kohl’s in 2006, the Simply Vera Vera Wang contemporary lifestyle collection also includes apparel, handbags, leather accessories, jewelry, footwear, bedding and bath. “As part of my incredible partnership with Kohl’s, I will now be able to offer women all over America my own personal regimen for skin care and makeup. It is an easy, light, modern and effortless

happi.com

January 2011

MicrobialControl

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Marketing News

approach to beauty and creativity,” said Wang.“I am proud to announce this whole new business we are about to launch. For sheer allure and enhancement, makeup can inspire individuality, creativity and exploration. Like fashion, makeup is also transformational. I love the artistry of makeup to accentuate, enhance, or create a mood for any time of day or occasion.”

• Near the end of 2010, Pledge held the “Pledge to Love Your Kitchen”contest. Launched in partnership with Jyl Johnson Pattee of MomItForward.com, the contest offered moms the chance to win $15,000 in gift cards for one or more major home improvement retailers to help update their kitchen along with a year’s supply of Pledge. To enter the contest, entrants had to describe in 500 words or less how Pledge could help them love their kitchen and upload two photos of their kitchen to MomItForward.com. The contest ran from Nov. 15-Dec. 10, 2010. • Ecolab Inc. and the American Hotel & Lodging Educational Institute have created www.bedbugtoolkit.com, a free online resource to help hotel owners and operators stop bed bugs before they spread. The tool kit features downloadable information and materials on how to train staff to detect bed bugs early, as well as actions to take when they suspect a guest room is infested.

• To help teach families about the importance of clean hands and prevent the spread of germs, Wet Ones Antibacterial Hand Wipes has launched the Wet Ones Healthy Hands Zone website, an educational resource developed by renowned science educator Bill Nye, author of “Bill Nye the Science Guy’s Great Big Book of Tiny Germs.” • Score another one for GuthyRenker. G-R’s latest coup is Caroline Wozniacki, the world’s Wet Ones has enlisted Bill Nye to help No. 1 tennis player, as a spread the word about healthy hy- spokesmodel for Proactiv Solution. The two-year deal with giene practices. the Denmark native, who lives in Monaco, will pay her several million dollars, according to Guthy-Renker co-founder and co-chairman Greg Renker, who declined to disclose an exact dollar amount. Wozniacki also shills for Adidas by Stella McCartney and has been tapped by Danish hair and body care company Allison. Proactiv, which has been responsible for more than half of Guthy-Renker’s estimated sales of $1.5 billion, is expected to gen30 • happi

erate around $850 million in revenues this year. Earlier this year, the company said it would spend $200 million globally on the brand’s spots.

• Scentsy, Inc., a growing party-plan company which offers scented, wickless candles and other fragrance products, has donated $1.25 million in plush toys to be distributed to Boys & Girls Clubs across the country. Boys & Girls Clubs of America will receive 50,000 Scentsy Buddies, a stuffed animal with a scent pack inside. The Boys & Girls Club donation was part of a larger pledge by Scentsy worth $2.5 million in toys for nonprofit organizations dedicated to helping children. Other recipients included Kids In Distressed Situations and Kids In Need Foundation. • Crest Oral-B is recognizing registered dental hygienists who go above and beyond the call of duty daily with its new “Pros in the Profession”award program. Throughout the year, Crest OralB will reward five deserving professionals, as nominated by their peers, who truly make an impact on patients and for the oral health cause. Now through April 30, 2011, nominations can be submitted to dentalcare.com/prosintheprofession or at the Crest Oral-B booth at upcoming dental conventions. Winners will receive a $1,500 monetary prize, an all-expense-paid trip to ADHA’s 88th Annual Session in Nashville, a pampering spa experience, recognition at major conferences throughout the year, and an exclusive trip to P&G headquarters.

• Summit Brands, the Fort Wayne, IN-based manufacturer and marketer of specialty household cleaning products such as Super Iron Out, Dishwasher Magic, Plink and White Brite, has renewed its partnership with appliance maker GE Appliances. The partnership gives Summit Brands the opportunity to educate new and current GE Appliances consumers on how to properly clean and care for their water softener with the help of Summit Brand products. Consumers purchasing a new GE Softener are provided with knowledge concerning hard water issues such as rust, helpful tips on preventing and removing rust stains and coupons to Summit Brand products like Super Iron Out. • Clarisonic has made a $500,000 donation to Look Good…Feel Better. “Our partnership with Look Good…Feel Better is a natural fit since we are both committed to empowering women to look and feel beautiful,” said Jack Gallagher, president of Clarisonic.“We are honored to contribute to this dynamic program that is helping thousands of women each year.”

• Biotone products were voted “Favorite Bodycare Line” in

American Spa’s 2010 Professional’s Choice Awards. Now in its sixth year, the awards are the results of readers’ votes in the following categories: favored spas, brands, equipment, properties and professionals. •

happi.com

January 2011

Regulations

VOC BILL PASSES IN CALIFORNIA • The California Air Resources Board (CARB) voted to reduce the use of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in 11 different types of household products. The new regulation is designed to reduce the amount of smogforming emissions generated from the use of floor cleaner, metal polish, furniture polish, general purpose cleaner, oven cleaner and other products. Beginning Jan. 1, 2014, manufacturers will no longer be able to use methylene chloride, perchloroethylene and trichloroethylene in many cleaning products sold in California. CARB estimates the regulation will save 6.7 tons of smog-forming volatile-organiccompound emissions per day—the equivalent of taking 500,000 cars off the road. Doing so helps the state meet federal clean air standards. “A lot of times we work to clean up emissions from machines the average person would never see, but this is something that would affect the products we use every day in our homes,” said Candice Kim, senior campaign associate with the Coalition for Clean Air in Los Angeles. “It’s a double benefit because we get improved indoor air quality making products safer for the home user, but we also get improved outdoor air quality,” she added.

CSPA Disputes Study From University of Washington • The Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) disputed a host of “misleading claims and false assertions” recently touted in a University of Washington study published in its Environmental Impact Assessment Review. The study, which catalogs product ingredients but does not scientifically evaluate results from exposure to those ingredients, attempts to falsely imply that products regulated under the Federal Hazardous Substances Act might be connected to adverse health effects, according to the CSPA. “It is dangerous to stoke the flames of consumer fear with incomplete findings built on a foundation of factual inaccuracies and sweeping assumptions,” said Chris Cathcart, CSPA president. “These products are safe when used according to product labels, and they have been utilized safely by consumers for decades. Cleaning, air freshener and laundry products adhere to strict labeling and safety requirements as mandated by the federal government,” he added. While CSPA acknowledges, as the study points out, the presence of regulated VOCs in some products, it vehemently disagrees with the author’s mischaracterization of information regarding the hazards associated with those VOCs. Not all ingredients are volatile, and not all volatile ingredients are hazardous. The products 32 • happi

identified in the study contain no significant levels of volatile hazardous ingredients, the association added. “Per the study’s own admission, it makes no claims regarding possible risks from product use nor did it seek to assess exposure and effects, so we are left scratching our heads as to why they would even publish an incomplete report that attempts to show us that the dots exist, but does nothing to connect them,” noted Cathcart of CSPA. More info: www.cspa.org

The Council Responds To Hair Smoothing Hazards • The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has received adverse event reports from consumers and salons on“professional use only” hair smoothing products. It has authority over hair straighteners and similar cosmetic products, including those intended for professional use only, but does not have authority over the operation of salons. According to John Bailey, chief scientist, Personal Care Products Council, the industry is concerned about the safety of ingredients in professional hair smoothing products. “These products have been reported to contain high levels of formaldehyde, which under some conditions of use can be sensitizing and irritating to users. One of the specific issues to be evaluated by FDA is whether unsafe levels of formaldehyde are being released into the air once this product is applied to the hair and then heated. “When hair-smoothing products that contain formaldehyde are heated, they can release low levels of formaldehyde gas. Formaldehyde and methylene glycol are sensitizing agents, and consumers may experience allergic reactions if they become sensitized…it cannot be concluded that formaldehyde is safe in cosmetic products intended to be aerosolized,” said Bailey. According to Bailey, the primary application considered by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) was the use of formaldehyde as a preservative to prevent the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms in cosmetic products. “The CIR did not examine the use of formaldehyde in hair straightening and smoothing treatments,” he said. “Therefore, PCPC has joined with FDA in asking CIR to review the safety of formaldehyde and methylene glycol in professional use hair smoothing products.” Bailey added, “In addition, we urge the FDA to work with state and local organizations, as well as with the federal Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), to objectively determine if salon hair smoothing products emit levels of formaldehyde gas that are unsafe for consumers and salon workers.” More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org •

happi.com

January 2011

Patent Review

ROSACEA AND ACNE TREATMENT PATENTED BY BIODERM • U.S. Patent No. 7,834,055 B2; Bioderm, Inc., Madison, WI, has patented a method of treating rosacea or acne. It entails applying a composition that is comprised of ascorbic acid, glucosamine and water. The composition is prepared by dissolving 1050% of the ascorbic acid in water at approximately 60-90°C to provide an aqueous ascorbic acid solution of at least 20% (w/v); cooling the aqueous ascorbic acid solution to below about 40°C; combining the aqueous ascorbic acid solution with water, glucosamine, and ascorbic acid to provide a composition and adjusting the pH of the composition to about 3.5-4.1. New Scar Treatment U.S. Patent No. 7,833,542 B2; Joel R. Studin of Great Neck, NY has been awarded a U.S. patent for a method of treating healed wounds to reduce scarring and/or improve the appearance of scars. It entails applying onto a healed wound a composition that contains a fluid, filmforming carrier, and subsequently hardening the carrier into a tangible membrane juxtaposed to the healed wound, to reduce scarring or improve the appearance.

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Laundry Treatment With Blue/Violet Dye • U.S. Patent No. 7,833,958 B2; Conopco, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ, has patented a laundry treatment composition which comprises a surfactant and a combination of dyes which have a visual effect as a single dye. The dyes have a peak absorption wavelength of 540-650nm on cotton.

Avon Awarded Two Patents To Enhance Eyelash Volume • U.S. Patent No. 7,837,984 B2; Avon has patented a method for imparting a volumizing effect to eyelashes. It is comprised of contacting eyelashes with a cosmetically acceptable post-foaming gel composition that contains a film forming agent; a 34 • happi

volatile aliphatic hydrocarbon post-foaming component; a surfactant; and a pigment. The volatile aliphatic hydrocarbon post-foaming component causes the surfactant to foam on the eyelashes so that the composition encasing the eyelashes increases in radius. A second patent (U.S. 7,837,985 B2), which involves a method for imparting a volumizing effect to eyelashes, has also been awarded to Avon. The eyelashes are contacted with a post-expanding composition comprising a film-forming agent, a surfactant, a solvent for the surfactant and a volatile agent. The film-forming agent is present in an amount effective to form a film that entraps at least a portion of foam formed by interaction of the volatile agent and the surfactant after the composition is applied to eyelashes.

Alterna Patents Hair Care Component • U.S. Patent No. 7,833,289 B1; Alterna Holdings Corp., Los Angeles, has patented a hair care component for use in hair coloring systems. It is a mixture of an aqueous solution; an emulsion comprising a polysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene block co-polymer, wherein the copolymer includes an aminofunctional silicone; and a cationic water-in-oil liquid dispersion comprising an alkylene, olefinically unsaturated (alkyl)amide. The dispersion inverts from the water-in-oil phase to an oil-in-water phase when mixed with the aqueous solution.

Instant Stain Removing Device • U.S. Patent No. 7,832,041 B2; S.C. Johnson & Son, Inc., Racine, WI, has been awarded a U.S. patent for treating a stain, spot or mark on an article of clothing while the clothing is being worn. The patent covers an applicator that has a tip, reservoir and a doughnut-shaped absorbent pad. The applicator tip is used to partially soak the clothing on and immediately around happi.com

the stain. The device is then rotated, engaging the clothing and the solution and wicking the solution from the clothing with the absorbent pad and transferring the stain to the absorbent pad.

P&G Patents Composition To Mitigate Skin Staining U.S. Patent No. 7,837,742 B2; The Procter & Gamble Company has patented a cosmetic composition for mitigating skin staining. It is comprised of a cationic polymer comprising cationic protonated amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities comprising dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylates, monoalkylamino alkyl methacrylates, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salts, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salts, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, pyridinium moeities, imidazolium moeities, quaternized pyrrolidone moeities, and mixture thereof; an encapsulated anionic colorant selected from the group consisting of FD&C Yellow 5, D&C Yellow 10, D&C Red 33, D&C Green 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Red 28, and mixtures thereof; and an aqueous carrier; wherein the cationic polymer forms a coacervate with the encapsulated anionic colorant.

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Extrudable Multiphase Cleansing Liquid • U.S. Patent No. 7,838,479 B2; Unilever Home & Personal Care USA, Greenwich, CT, has patented a stable, extrudable, multiphase aqueous liquid cleansing composition. It entails a container having an outlet for dispensing the composition; an acid phase including at least one acid held within the container; and a soap phase including at least one soap held within the container. The acid and soap phases are present in distinct macro phases whose average dimension is about 2.0mm or greater, and are mixed with each other January 2011

Patent Review

Sterilizer Co. has patented an aqueous, lowfoaming alkaline cleaning composition. The composition contains sodium hydroxide (50% active), at least two biodegradable nonionic surfactants that are primary or secondary alcohol ethoxylates, a UV-analyzable January 2011

Grape •

Flax •

R

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S

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Olive

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T

Omega-3 Fish Oil

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NATURAL

O i l s Fo r Th e C o s m e t i c s I n d u s t ry

For over 80 years the name Arista has been synonymous with the procurement of the world’s finest quality, all-natural oils — at remarkably competitive prices — widely used in the personal care, cosmetics and aromatherapy industries.

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Canola

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Castor • Coconut

•

Cranberry

•

Evening Primrose

Jojoba • Kukui • Macadamia

A

Avocado • Black Currant • Borage

• U.S. Patent No. 7,838,485 B2; American

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•

Since

1930

1- 800-ALL-OILS ARISTA INDUSTRIES, INC. 557 DANBURY ROAD, WILTON, CT 06897 www.aristaindustries.com

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203-761-1009

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[email protected]

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FAX 203-761-4980

Sunflower • Tea Tree • Walnut • Wheat Germ

Biodegradable Alkaline Disinfectant Cleaner

Hemp

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Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ, has patented a process for the manufacture of an artisan cleansing bar having inclusions embedded in its surface. The patent covers the following steps: forming a billet having a continuous and smooth surface comprised of an extruded cleansing base, placing one or more inclusion masses on the continuous and smooth surface of the billet to form an inclusion bearing billet; stamping the inclusion bearing billet in a direction perpendicular to the surface on which the inclusion mass is placed to embed the inclusion mass or masses into a surface layer of the billet to form a personal washing bar having one or more visually distinct surface inclusions. The extruded cleansing base has a hardness as measured by the Cylinder Impaction Test of at least about 20 lb/in2 when measured at a temperature in the range from about 30°C to about 42°C.

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Rice Bran • Rose Hip • Safflower • Sesame • Soybean

• U.S. Patent No. 7,838,480 B2; Conopco,

Hazelnut

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Conopco Patents Soap With Artisan Appearance

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Parsley • Peanut • Pumpkin

U.S. Patent No. 7,838,477 B2; Kimberly-Clark has patented a cleansing composition comprising a foaming agent, a thickener, swellable clay and particles having a particle size of from about 150 microns to about 4 millimeters suspended in the composition. The particles comprise encapsulated additives. The composition has a viscosity of approximately 3,50040,000 cps and a pH of from 4.5-8.5.

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Liquid Cleanser Patented By Kimberly-Clark

pable of being validated using known UV detection techniques. The cleaning composition has disinfectant properties when used alone, without the need for additional sanitizers or disinfecting components, or separate sanitizing or disinfecting steps. •

surfactant comprising sodium xylene sulfonate (40%), a biodegradable chelating agent comprising methylglycine diacetic acid and water. The cleaning composition is biodegradable, phosphate-free, stable for an unexpected shelf life, low-foaming and ca-

Almond • Apricot

within the container. The substantial reaction of the acid and soap phases with each other does not occur when the composition is stored for 50°C for 30 days.

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Gleams & Notions

ALL ABOUT HAIR... AND THE LACK THEREOF

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HIS MONTH’S COLUMN

could be subtitled, “Everything You Wanted to Know About Hair, But Were Afraid to Ask.” Hair comes in various sizes and shapes: stiff and short on the eyebrows, long and soft on the head, and almost invisible on most other body areas. Hair is among the fastest growing tissues in the human body—a man will produce about five-and-a-half inches of beard and five inches of scalp hair in a year’s time. The scalp might contain 100,000 hairs and the beard 30,000. All of these hairs originate in a follicle that is located about an eighth of an inch down in the layer of skin below the epidermis that contains blood and nerves. The hair follicle can be considered a tiny hair factory that operates 24 hours a day, seven days a week for several years, shuts down for a rest period and then starts producing again. The growth phase is the anagen phase, the transition phase is the catagen phase and the rest phase is the telogen phase. As many as 75 scalp hairs are lost each day, and an individual hair can last from two to six years before it is shed. It has been determined that feminine hair usu-

Harvey M. Fishman Consultant Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436, [email protected], specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.

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ally lasts about 25% longer than masculine hair, although armpit hair longevity is about equal in men and women. A child may have short, soft hair called vellus covering his body. At puberty, the follicles stop producing vellus and begin making coarse adult hair. Eventually, with age, the follicles may degenerate to produce vellus hair again, or The scalp loses as many as 75 hairs a day. Lose too much, however, and shut down com- your hairline will start to look like the fellow’s above. pletely. This process is responsible for ordinary balding which the time but scalp follicles produce about occurs to men about midlife, but to rela- half an inch of growth a month. Beard hair grows slightly faster. Although a woman tively few women. Hair is made up almost entirely of has the same number of follicles as a man, protein called keratin, which has an outer the hair produced is very different. Her layer of protective overlapping cells (the body and facial hair is mostly a fine, alcuticle) that resembles roofing shingles. most invisible down—the same vellus hair The middle layer, or cortex, is an elastic that a man has as a baby. Follicles produce hair that is straight, material that gives hair its resilience and flexibility. It is possible to stretch hair its wavy or curly. Looking at a cross-section of own length, and to have an individual a hair might show it to be round, oval or flathair support a 3oz. weight. The cortex also tened. Round is for straight hair, oval for contains melanin, the pigment that deter- wavy, and flattened is for kinky hair with demines hair color. In the center of the hair grees in between. The flatter the hair is, the is the medulla, which resembles bone curlier it is; the rounder it is, the straighter. Hair can be affected by diseases and can marrow. It may be continuous, discontinuous, fragmented or not present in some be used to detect chemicals consumed, eshair shafts. Scientists are not sure of its pecially metals. Forensic chemists may perexact function except that it contributes form analytical tests on hair to determine if bulk to the hair shaft. The sebaceous a body was fed arsenic or how much lead gland supplies a lubricating oil (sebum) to was inhaled from industrial pollution. the hair to make it look lustrous and DNA analysis is also performed. In our industry, the state of the cutihealthy, rather than dry and brittle. The hair above the scalp is dead. The cle and cortex, both physical and chemiproduction rate of individual follicles in cal, determines the condition of the hair the body varies. For example, follicles af- and impacts its ability to be colored, confecting eyebrows and eyelids rest most of ditioned or waved. • happi.com

January 2011

Some Cosmetic Alternatives To Professional Procedures Using terminology and technologies borrowed from cosmetic procedures, skin care brands have raised the bar in terms of product claims. Here’s a look at the key aesthetic medicine trends that have impacted the next generation of cosmetic and skin care products. Imogen Matthews • In-Cosmetics

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MERICAN CONSUMERS spent $10 billion on cosmetic procedures in 2009, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS). Yet, despite growth of 69% in the past decade, short-term trends show a slowing down in the total number of cosmetic procedures to 12.5 million in 2009. Recent trends point to more people turning toward body contouring or minimally invasive treatments for facial rejuvenation. In fact, the value of office-based cosmetic procedures in 2009 was just 6% higher than the previous year. “Consumers have learned that cosmetic

procedures can bring dramatic results,” affirmed Emmanuelle Bassmann, managing director of In-Trend Ltd., a consultancy focused on anti-ageing cosmetics and aesthetic medicine in Europe and North America. “Beauty products are now expected to do more and work faster. An antiaging cream should lift, plump, erase fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone and brighten it.” Bassmann has identified four key trends that the cosmetic industry has adopted from aesthetic medicine. Botox is one of the most popular minimally invasive procedures, which grew by

Restylane Skincare is based on stabilized hyaluronic acid.

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509% between 2000 and 2009, according to the ASPS. “Everyone wants a cosmetic line that does what Botox does, but not many can afford to have a top up every four months,” noted Bassmann. One of the latest skin care products to make Botox-like claims is Ci:Labo 3D-Deep Botolium Premium Lift. It is formulated with argireline, myoxinol, leuphsyl and synake and claims to have one of the highest concentration levels yet achieved in the industry. The formulation claims to work on expression lines, fine lines and wrinkles, as well as sagging skin around the eyes. Hyaluronic acid is an alternative to the invasive dermal filler and is a key hydrating component within the skin. It is also used in many cosmetic formulations such as Neutrogena Ageless Intensives Anti-Wrinkle Deep Wrinkle Filler. The product combines retinol with hyaluronic acid and claims to fill creases and re-plump wrinkles within eight weeks of use. According to Bassmann, retinol is one of the most effective anti-aging treatments in doctor’s offices where high strength prescription grade retinol (Retin A and Renova) is used to erase fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol is a popular choice in skin care lines, such as the recent launches of RoC Retinol Correxion, L’Oréal Paris Youth Code and Vichy Liftactiv Retinol HA. Retinol is often combined with hyaluronic acid for greater efficacy. January 2011

Cosmetic Alternatives to Professional Procedures

Latisse is a drug launched by Allergan in 2009, which is the first FDA-approved prescription growth treatment for sparse or inadequate lashes. The product works by making lash growth possible via bimatoprost, its active ingredient. “Latisse has inspired a whole new category of mascara/eyelash conditioners to stimulate eyelash growth, volume and color,” explained Bassmann. The key brands that pioneered this trend in cosmetics are Revitalash and Jan Marini. The Revita brand has been extended with RevitaBrow and Hair by Revitalash conditioner for thicker, fuller hair. “Today’s makeup goes beyond adding pigment and color to our skin—it repairs, lifts and adds volume,”said Bassmann, who noted that makeup brands are finding inspiration at the doctor’s office. These include LipFusion XL, a non-injectable lip-volumizing therapy that combines two times the pure active collagen of LipFusion’s original plumpers with hyaluronic acid in a topical nighttime treatment. It claims to offer the most advanced plumping power found in a lip treatment.

Bridging the Gap French aesthetic medicine laboratory Filorga has launched an anti-aging procedure that is less invasive than fillers but is

January 2011

more effective than any cosmetic. Berengere Boucly, marketing manager, Filorga, who has spent her career developing cosmeceutical and medical products in France, explained: “Mesotherapy is a biological treatment delivering nutrients to the skin that is natural and progressive, so you see the results after several sessions. Small quantities of active ingredients, including vitamins and amino acids, are injected at a superficial level, targeting the fibroblasts into producing more collagen.” She pointed out that mesotherapy is not designed to replace procedures, but to provide an active alternative to those who want more from their skin care. Filorga has now brought mesotherapy into mainstream cosmetics with its Cosmesotherapie brand, which launched in UK retailer House of Fraser in November 2010. The anti-aging treatment products contain ingredients used in aesthetic mesotherapy that are combined with a time-release delivery of hyaluronic acid of high molecular weight. Aesthetic dermal filler brand Restylane, too, has made the transition into cosmetics with the launch of Restylane Skincare, based on stabilized hyaluronic acid, which is the same technology used in its dermal filler range. “The stabilized hyaluronic acid particles

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have been made smaller in order to work within a cream and on the surface of the skin,” explained Jennifer Pain, Restylane product manager. The formulation is reportedly highly biocompatible with the natural structure of the skin and unlike conventional skin care, does not contain emulsifiers, which the company claims can weaken the skin’s barrier. “The Restylane Recover Cream was specifically designed for use after aesthetic procedures, including Restylane dermal filler treatments, but also others such as peels or laser treatments,”said Pain.“However, the range has also been designed to be effective for people not undergoing treatments, to improve the quality of the skin by providing added hydration, leaving it looking radiant and feeling silky smooth.” According to Boucly, consumers are becoming more experienced and demanding of the skin care they use. “Increasingly, medical technology will be used in cosmetic formulations. We are at the beginning of a new era of very active cosmetics.” • In-Trend Ltd. and Filorga will participate at In-Cosmetics’ marketing trends presentations, taking place in Milan, March 29-31, 2011 More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

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EuroTrends

PERSONAL CLEANSER SALES MANAGE TO STAY BUOYANT

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HEN IT comes to personal cleanser sales, it has been a successful year for most countries in the Big 5 with all but one posting a gain in value sales. Unfortunately, Spain did decline by 3.5%, as consumers there continued to cut costs as they feel the continued effects of the recession. But for the other countries, business was good and consumers were treated to a plethora of bathroom treats in imaginative formats.

Scrubbing Up Nicely The French bathroom products market grew 3% in the past year to $868.8 million, according to Symphony IRI France. Shower products accounted for $634.2 million of this, with a growth of 5.4%, while larger format bathroom products also amounted to $84.4 million, as sizes of over 500ml grew in popularity, possibly because they offer the consumer better value for money. These types of formats are often sold in drugstores and pharmacies, which tend to offer promotional deals and special offers making them a competitive choice for cashstrapped customers. There have been some varied new product launches in France in the past year with key manufacturers trying to out-do

Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622

40 • happi

each other with ever more interesting scents and textures. Best-selling Johnson & Johnson brand Le Petit Marseillais reformulated its Cueillettes Fruitees Gel Douche Extra Doux range with a vegetable-based cleanser that does not contain parabens. Meanwhile, two new additions to its popular Recettes Mediterranéennes range of shower creams feature gourmand fragrances. Huile d’abricot & Fleur d’amandier de Provence nourishes dry and dehydrated skin, has a delicately fruity perfume, and utilizing the brand’s Provencal image, the scent is said to evoke a summer in Provence. Meanwhile, Zeste de citron & Bergamote d’Italie has a sparkling citrus fragrance. The brand had an extremely successful year in France in 2009, recording market growth of 9%, according to industry sources, due to aggressive advertising and promotional activities and numerous innovations.

Soap and Glory According to the latest data from Symphony IRI Germany, the bathroom products market in Germany posted a slight gain in the first nine months of 2010, putting on 0.7% in value terms to boost the category to $970.6 million. Of this total, soap sales rose the most, up 2.1% to $226.8 million. German company Claire Fisher launched three new limited edition aroma bath salts for wintertime, Christmasthemed Maronen Aromabad (maroni and sweet chestnuts), which has a sweet nutty fragrance, the fresh Melonen Minz Aromabad (melon and mint) and the floral Magnolien Aromabad (magnolia). And another German stalwart, Beiersdorf, was also busy rolling out its new Double Effect Shower & Shave Shower Gel, a creamy shower foam with avocado that can also be used for shaving. Meanwhile, Nivea Bath Care Sunny Melon Shower Gel also debuted in the same month and is a clear happi.com

Several marketers have made a splash with new product launches.

shower gel with oil-filled micropearls.

Clean and Bright Italian industry body Unipro has happily reported that bathroom products was one of the few sectors of the Italian cosmetics and toiletries market which has not succumbed to the effects of the recession, growing by a modest 1.1% to $1.02 billion. Of this, liquid soaps performed most impressively, gaining 4.2% to $206.1 million— a noticeable improvement on last year’s 1.3% growth in this area, as this format continued to appeal to Italian consumers. In terms of new product launches, Italian bath and body company Aquolina has been busy debuting new wares. One such launch was the February arrival of Aquolina Love Zone dedicated solely to women, while June saw Aquolina Royal hit the shelves. This range features a bath cream, body cream and fragranced water, which are available in four different variants. January 2011

EuroTrends

In a Lather The Spanish bathroom products sector was unfortunately not so buoyant, as sales in the category declined 3.4% to $760.2 million, according to Symphony IRI Spain. Industry insiders blame the slump on the growing popularity of own brands, as consumers increasingly turn to private label products in order to cut costs. In terms of new product development, Spanish men have received particular attention in the bathroom products category in the past year, with manufacturers targeting this often sidelined area in order to perhaps claw back some of their losses. Unilever, especially via its Axe brand, has been immensely successful in differentiating its products for men in an increasingly crowded Spanish market. Both provocative advertising and scents have been a longstanding hit among Spanish men and this has proven a winning formula. On the back of its

continued Axe success, Unilever recently introduced Dove Men+ Care in two shower gel formats—Clean Comfort and Extra Fresh. Based on sunflower seed oil, which is high in essential fatty acids prized for moisturizing benefits, Dove Men+ Care offers a thorough hygiene regime with spicy fragrances appealing to most men.

Britannia Rules the Waves In the past year, the UK bathroom products market has managed to put on 3.4%, a healthy gain under the circumstances, to $935.5 million, according to Kantar Worldpanel. And when it came to volume sales, things were slightly more favorable, as the market increased by 3.5%. Branded products were up by 4.2%, while own label products fell by 0.1% in sharp contrast to other European markets. The UK is always a market that has innovation in the field of bathroom prod-

ucts—2010 was no different. Although demand for bath cubes in the UK seems to have dipped in the past few months, bathers don’t lack options when it comes to adding a bit of fizz to their bathroom routine. UK favorite Lush’s Bath Ballistics—oversized oil-based bath bombs— has achieved somewhat iconic status since Lush co-founder Mo Constantine created them more than 20 years ago. This year, Dorset-based Lush added a new twist to the original. The top layer of the new style Bath Ballistic consists of ball mixed with shavings of bubble bar (another of Lush’s hero products). This combination creates a trail of foam while the inner layer scents and colors the water. The Big 5 bathroom products market looks to be bubbling along nicely. As for the other countries, things look buoyant overall, as bathroom products are always a good category when it comes to choice and innovation. •

SHARED VALUES – SHARED SUCCESS Brenntag Personal Care North America shares your desire to sensitively develop innovative products and solutions. We provide our customers with global access to a comprehensive range of ingredients and worldclass manufacturers through the largest specialty ingredient distribution network in the world. Anticipating the products for tomorrow Our applications lab is continually incorporating new ingredients into formulas relevant to today’s market trends.

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Innovating solutions Our technical experts both in the field and in the lab optimize your formulations based on an extensive product portfolio and technical training. Collaborating with customers We understand the challenges and needs of our customers. Our market experienced sales team transforms visions into realities and converts costconsciousness into high performance. Taking a step ahead From multiple locations across North America, Brenntag’s Personal Care

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team offers LTL shipments, sampling capabilities, local customer service and warehousing, exceeding our customers’ needs every day. Do you share our values? Let us show you how to share success. Please contact us to learn how.

Brenntag North America 5083 Pottsville Pike Reading, PA 19605 Phone 610 926 6100 x 3858 [email protected] www.brenntagnorthamerica.com

January 2011

A Strategic Point of View

ARE THINGS IMPROVING IN THE SALON CATEGORY?

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in this beauty business of ours, there are a number of different indicators as to whether things are on the up—in terms of popular economics—or whether more doom and gloom is just around round the corner. Leonard Lauder’s famous lipstick indicator is a case in point. But another is whether ladies are still going to the beauty shop—or as we say in Europe, to the hairdresser—and when they get there, are they still treating themselves to a full color service or are they making do with a quick wash and cut? At the time of writing, both of the major players in the professional hair care market have been busy telling analysts what a successful time they’ve been having. The global president of P&G’s salon professional division, Robert Jongstra, said recently that his North American business is doing very well and had notched up high single digit gains in both 2008 and 2009 in a market where sales fell 8% in 2009. Similarly bullish statements have been coming from L’Oréal’s professional products division, which posted sales up 4.5% for the first nine months of 2010, in a worldwide market CCORDING TO FOLKLORE

Are gains in the salon segment merely wishful thinking on the part of brand owners?

whose estimated growth is between zero and 2%. Hard numbers for the global professional hair care market tend not to be in the public domain, unless from time to time some “fall off a truck…” So, given the two industry giants, P&G and L’Oréal, together account for well over 50% of the world professional category, one must conclude that either ladies are indeed returning to the beauty shop with a vengeance, and spending more money when they get there, or

Neither the beauty Colin Hession Colin Hession Consulting

shop nor the humble

Colin Hession is managing direc-

European hairdresser

tor of Colin Hession Consulting, a specialist consultancy that focuses exclusively on Personal Care in Europe, in terms of commercial &

has been immune

marketing development. Tel: +44-1202-710377 • Fax: +44-1202-710399 e-mail [email protected] web site www.hessioncosmetics.com

January 2010

to the winds of recession. happi.com

that the industry is whistling past the graveyard. We suspect that it’s a bit of both. P&G has had to restructure its portfolio in order to cater to the value-for-money segment as well as the premium customer. The portfolio now includes Wella, Sebastian, Sassoon, Nioxin and Kadus/Londa/ Clairol. “We now have a stable of five brands that is designed to talk to every hairdresser segment in the market,” said Jongstra, adding “that will make the market grow.” Nicolas Hieronimus, the outgoing president of L’Oréal’s professional products division (who will move to head up L’Oréal’s luxury products this year), told journalists “when everybody was cutting and disinvesting, we did what had not been done for 20 years, which was put advertising on TV, in newspapers magazines and the internet to tell women that there was a new hair color revolution, called Inoa, and go ask your salons about it.” He went on to say that Inoa was now in more than 76,000 salons worldwide, of which 20% had never worked with L’Oréal before, and that sales of L’Oréal’s permanent hair color applications were growing by double digits. “We’re trying to help stylists reinvent the salon because at the end of the day, in mature countries, what will make this market grow is new ideas, new places,”said Hieronimus. “I think that salons have not evolved enough, and we thought that it could be interesting for us to brainstorm and work with trend scouts to study what women love and did not like so much about their salons.” He went on to point out that there was also growth potential for men’s hair products in the professional channel, highlighting L’Oréal’s Kerstase Capital Force, being launched in the U.S. Strategic point to note here is that (even) the beauty shop, or humble European hairdresser, has not been immune to the winds of recession, but that they too happi • 43

A Strategic Point of View

have been changing and adapting, and the signs are positive.

A Stylish Comeback in France Another indicator—albeit a small one—of better times, perhaps, is the fact that hairstyling products have been making a modest comeback in the French mass market.

expansion route beyond prestige fragrance? Either way, Philosophy’s previous owners, the private equity firm Carlyle, must be very pleased with life. Strategic point: wonder who else in mass nails may think about backing up into the (small) professional channel to gain fashion trickle down? Interesting, too, to note in passing how Dr Scheller’s previous owners, Russian company Kalina, has effectively acted like a private equity business in that it only acquired Scheller’s Manhattan in 2007 and, having stripped out excess costs, has lost little time in selling it on to Coty. Was this the Russians’ intention all along, or was it a case of needs must, or just opportunism?

Walmart’s Comfort Zone

Franck Provost is adding value to mass market hair care in France.

We listened to an interesting conference call the other day organized by banking giant UBS, which seems to have a firm grasp of our industry. The subject was all about how Walmart has been deftly rowing back from what Bentonville appar-

The last couple of years have tended to be all about value-for-money products, but recently the market has seen the re-emergence of added value lines such as those promoted by Franck Provost, L’Oréal’s hair designer spokesman.

44 • happi

As Schlecker Branches Out If Walmart has returned to its comfort zone, Europe’s largest drugstore chain, Ger-

Shampoo Pricing - UK, November 2010 (U.S. $ equivalents)

Asda

Boots

Asda price advantage

5.10

-56%

(Walmart)

Coty Splashes Out At the time of writing, it looks as if privately owned Coty is about to splash out on three separate acquisition deals. In these difficult times, it’s certainly a positive sign when a major player is sufficiently confident to put its money where its mouth is. The logic of Coty’s three deals seems reasonably clear. Get more critical mass in the core category of its mass division in Germany by buying Dr Scheller’s Manhattan nails and makeup. Move into high-end nails with OPI in the U.S., where professional nails are (sort of) akin to professional hair, in that it tends to represent the fashion end of the category. And make a move into prestige skin care—although one has to ask whether U.S.-based Philosophy is a sufficiently distinctive franchise to provide a meaningful

ently called Project Impact. This was a strategic initiative started in 2007, which involved among other things moving away from Every Day Low Pricing (EDLP) toward multiple pricing, giving more emphasis to Walmart’s own brands, prioritizing certain specific categories, and moving some merchandising initiatives from local store management to the center. It seems that Walmart has decided to move back to its comfort zone, winning back lower income shoppers with good old EDLP and, inevitably, piling more margin pressure on suppliers. In the UK, meanwhile, Walmart’s Asda subsidiary has been moving inexorably toward its parent company’s U.S. comfort zone, with HBA pricing that has been giving its competitors, Tesco and Boots, a pretty hard time. The table below gives a small snap shot of the situation.

size (mls)

TreSemmé

900

4.00*

500

John Frieda Sheer Blonde

250

5.33*

7.98

-33%

Elvive

250

2.40*

4.08

-41%

Pantene

500

6.24

6.38

-2%

Dove

250

2.40*

4.24

-43%

Herbal Essences

200

1.60

3.34

-52%

Head & Shoulders

500

4.80

7.18

-33%

VO5

300

3.52

3.66

-4%

* “2 for” promotional offer Source: Colin Hession Consulting

happi.com

January 2011

A Strategic Point of View

many’s Schlecker, is leaving theirs in an effort to stem falling sales. The traditionally hard-nosed company has moved its total store base down from 11,000 outlets at its peak in 2005 to approximately 7,800 today, and revenues and staff numbers have fallen even more significantly. In 2009, sales fell 8% to $9.9 billion, and were expected to fall further in 2010 to below $8.9 billion. The company is privately held, but normally well-informed sources maintain that operating losses over the past three years have grown to $178 million. Now, tough talking owner Anton Schlecker (66 years old), has commissioned his two children, Lars and Meike Schlecker, to take charge of his Fit For Future program, which apparently involves a complete corporate restructure over the next 18 months designed to modernize the company’s store base, cut its assortment and brighten up

Meike claim that things are going to change, although some commentators wonder whether their dad’s Fit For Future may be too little too late.

Right Guard Hits Bottom

Once mighty Right Guard has been relegated to the bottom shelf in the UK.

store ambience. The latter ought not to be difficult, since Schlecker stores are notoriously dim and dowdy, with less than inviting interiors as well as exteriors. Lars and

When faced with the possibility of acquiring someone else’s brand, it’s always easy to argue along the lines of “we could do it better” especially, that is, when that someone is an industry giant. But it ain’t necessarily so. Consider the case of Right Guard in UK. Henkel acquired the famous deodorant brand from P&G, when the latter had to divest it in order to win Gillette. We note that Right Guard is now to be seen on the bottom shelf in Boots, as our rather sad picture shows (at left). Strategic point: some brands inevitably do better with their original parents, rather than with adopted ones. •

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happi • 45

Notes from China

DOUBLE-DIGIT GAINS IN SKIN CARE SEGMENT

B

ACKED BY ROBUST ECONOMIC growth, the Chinese cosmetic market continues to surge. According to the China Association of Fragrance Flavor and Cosmetic Industries (CAFFCI), cosmetics sales are expected to grow 12% or more during the next five years, exceeding $30 billion by 2013. Among all sectors, skin care is no doubt dominant, accounting for more than 37% of cosmetics and toiletries sales in China in 2009, according to Euromonitor. Facial skin care is especially successful in this sector—the latest report from Datamonitor shows that four out of every five new skin care products launched in China is for the face, and the number of skin care product launches reached nearly 2,000, an increase of almost 20%, in 2009. Skin whitening and sun care creams and lotions accounted for much of the new launch activity. By subcategory, while basic products such as facial moisturizers and facial cleansers still account for a large proportion of total skin care value sales in China, other products, such as face masks, anti-

Ally Dai Happi China Ally Dai is senior editor of Happi China. She has more than 10 years of experience in the cosmetic and food industries. Happi China is a leading media for the China household & personal care industry. Published by Ringier Trade Media in strategic editorial partnership with Happi, it helps local manufacturers update their knowledge on formulating, testing and packaging, as well as providing market insight. Website: www. industrysourcing.com

46 • happi

aging/nourishing products and toners, are enjoying dynamic growth, driven by continued sophistication of Chinese consumers and ongoing product innovation as well as a better understanding of such products within mass consumer groups, according to Euromonitor. Furthermore, Euromonitor data shows that facial moisturizers, with more than 44% of total skin care value sales in China, reported slower growth of just 10% in 2009, mainly due to its higher penetration among mass consumers than other categories. Toners and nourishers/anti-agers, however, posted higher growth, largely as a result of increasing marketing and promotional efforts by key brands. Eye care products within anti-agers outperformed those with only basic moisturizing function, and acne treatments still accounted for a relatively small share of sales in skin care in 2009.

A Competitive Landscape While the competition between multinational and local players is heating up across the Chinese cosmetic market, it is still dominated by international brands, which made up 60% of sales volume and 90% of sales revenue in 2009, according to CAFFCI. The association also reports that only about 50 out of 4,000-plus domestic cosmetic manufacturers have annual sales of more than $15 million. This uncompetitiveness of domestic manufacturers is also reflected in Euromonitor’s 2009 top 10 list for China personal care sector, as nine out of the top 10 players are international players. While L’Oréal China and Procter & Gamble (Guangzhou) Ltd. continue to lead the way, C-Bons Group was the only domestic company on this list. Compared with their international counterparts, domestic players have apparent disadvantages in terms of marketing campaigns, brand-building and sufficient market investment. Currently, the vast mahappi.com

jority of them are concentrated on middlerange and/or low-end market, targeting the consumers in second- and third-tier cities, as well as rural cities. But this competitive landscape seems to be changing, as more international players that once focused on first-tier cities are now penetrating into those regions, offering a wide range of skin care brands covering both premium and mass. The vast rural market is expected to become the next battlefield.

Whitening Appeal Whitening claims are particularly popular in China, and are widely used across most skin care subcategories, especially facial care. Skin whitening has a long history in this country, stemming back to ancient times when the saying “one white covers up all ugliness”was passed on from generation to generation. A recent consumer survey by Datamonitor also proves this obsession, with nearly half of the respondents in China considering it an important attribute of a skin care product. As manufacturers attempt to capitalize on this trend, a wide range of skin care products promising whitening properties has been flooding the Chinese market. By subcategory, penetration of skin whitening products in toners and face masks was relatively higher, accounting for around 36% and 35% of value sales, respectively, in 2009, followed by facial moisturizers and facial cleansers, with 30% and 20% respectively in 2009. However, skin whitening products within nourishers/anti-agers registered the lowest penetration rate, around 10% in 2009, as most consumers prefer to buy skin whitening products and anti-agers separately, according to Euromonitor. With competition becoming more fierce, manufacturers are seeking to differentiate themselves by adding innovative whitening ingredients and/or making their products multifunctional with whitening/brightening claims. At the same time, consumers’ attiJanuary 2011

Notes from China

tude toward a white complexion are shifting. Embracing another popular trend, Nu Natural, consumers now prefer claims of transparent rosy whitening, removing dark and yellowish tone and spot clearing, instead of purely unnatural pale. For example, in a recent survey conducted by Shanghai Huashan Hospital, one of the most prestigous derm hospitals in China, an even skin tone is regarded as healthier than a pure white tone by most respondents.

It seems, though, that approaches to utilize TCM ingredients are distinctively different between domestic and international players. While most western brands focus on incorporating some particular types of TCM ingredients into their products that also contain other contemporary

ingredients, many national brands tend to adopt a holistic way of combining various TCM herbal ingredients for their synergistic effects based on well-known formularies. Either way, the growth of TCM underscores the growing importance of the Chinese personal care industry. •

Emergence of TCM Herbal solutions are another trend in today’s Chinese skin care market. Deeply rooted in traditional Chinese culture, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) philosophy is well-accepted in the mainstream society, and therefore TCM-based skin care are increasingly heralded by fashion beauty magazines due to safety concerns over chemical ingredients among general public. There is a strong belief among Chinese consumers that TCM-based products are safe. According to Euromonitor, the annual growth rate of TCM-based skin care is expected to reach 65%, well above the average growth rate of general skin care, and the market share of TCM-based subcategory will expand to 40% in 2010. As a result, both domestic and international players are keen to jump on the bandwagon. For domestic players, TCM is widely viewed as some secret weapon to gain the upper hand over their international rivals, since there is a public consensus that local brands can better draw on the experience of Chinese culture. That idea works for Shanghai Jahwa, one of the pioneers in this category. Its TCM-based skin care series Herboist is one of the leading brands in China, and sales revenue tripled in the past three years. More international players are also paying attention to this trend, and L’Oréal, P&G, Unilever, Estée Lauder and Shiseido all have their research facilities in China focused on adapting TCM. L’Oréal, for example, has a botanical center in the Yunnan Province, and is aggressively marketing its TCM line under the Yue-Sai Kan brand. January 2011

happi.com

happi • 47

The Grayson Report

THE DECADE THAT CHANGED THE WAY WE DO BUSINESS Each of us lives several hundred years in a decade.” - Marshall McLuhan

W

ELCOME to the start of a new decade. But before we jump in, let’s review the tremendous upheaval that has taken place in several common job functions during the past 10 years. Marketing: At the top of any top 10 marketing list would have to be the evolving/expanding role of the chief marketing officer (CMO). While many vice presidents of marketing had enlarged roles towards the end of the 1990s, the new “c-suite marketer” has responsibility for corporate, product and the marketing execution. This can stretch over the finance department, the call center or product development—wherever a customer or consumer touches the company. But not everyone is cut out to be

Suzanne & Bob Grayson Grayson Associates Suzanne and Bob Grayson are respected, professional marketers,

CMO. According to Spencer Stuart, one of the leading executive search firms, the average tenure of CMOs in 2009 was 28.4 months. Apparently the job has grown— but not the candidates. Consider the career path that leads to the c-level marketing job. Almost by definition it starts with some form of product management. That position will make him or her knowledgeable about the various functions described as the marketing mix—product, positioning, display, advertising, pricing—but what about social media with all of its iterations and traps? What about that exploding bottle video on YouTube? It’s now the CMO’s responsibility. And maybe, just maybe, understanding social media is more important than focusing on Nielsen ratings. It might be that the CMO job is just too big to be handled by one person—and should be “The Office of Corporate Marketing.” The other nine areas may be a bit more obvious, but they form a kind of check list of things that now must be considered, budgeted and executed under the direction of the CMO. Advertising: The seismic shift from traditional media to cyberspace, and how to manage the message and the money. Social Media: Explosive. A potential loss of control of the message is the downside, and the resulting impact on brand

image will be difficult to fathom. Metrics: We can now measure just about everything. But does that mean we forsake savvy judgment for rulers? Online Videos: Who said that there’s no such thing as a free “lunch?” Globalization: That small international division of 10 years ago now drives the company. And the real payoff may come when what is learned in Namibia and Bali can be utilized in the UK and the U.S. Green Marketing: Sometimes it’s not easy to measure the incremental benefits, but it is getting to be very important to the consumer. When the ripple becomes a stream then a river, you had better have a sturdy boat. Cause Marketing: See Green Marketing above. Focus on Search: Your potential consumer is out there somewhere and he or she has most likely used the internet for his or her own information. Gotcha! Consumer-Centrics: The new hand in product development! Each element requires mastery for impact, growth and profitability. The net? With almost everyone—certainly the top five— having equal access to technology, welcome to the decade of the media masters!

Hope Springs Eternal If you seek a rosy future, there is no better time than the start of a new year. It is also a

having spent their careers with the leading companies in the beauty

The new Burberry cosmetics line is ho hum.

industry before starting their successful consulting business in the early 1970s. Their consulting clients have included Avon, BristolMyers, Estée Lauder, Procter & Gamble, Revlon and Cover Girl, among others. They reside in San Juan Capistrano, CA and maintain an office in New York City. For more information, they can be reached at [email protected] or [email protected]

48 • happi

happi.com

January 2011

The Grayson Report

propitious time to wrap-up loose ends. That brings us to the introduction of the new Burberry line of cosmetics into Nordstrom in South Coast Plaza, Orange County, CA. A reporter from The Orange County Register interviewed one of the executives at Groupe Clarins USA, which represents Burberry in the U.S. We’ll paraphrase the interview and omit the name of the interviewee to protect the innocent. We are represented by “GA.” Q: U.S. department store sales fell to $3.2 billion in 2009, a 5% drop from 2008. Why is Burberry opening a makeup counter now? A: This is a perfect moment to introduce a beauty collection as the brand is growing. GA: Huh? Maybe their trench coats are growing (few branded ones). But there are plenty of great luxury beauty brands out there.

We are strong believers that there is always room for new ideas and products. And you need only look in cyberspace to find plenty of very interesting (but underfunded) new products that make their case with believable creativity. Sorry Burberry, nice, is not good enough these days. (Foundation, $55; Lipstick, $30; Mascara, $28.)

☹ Glad I Didn’t Do That

Urban Decay refers to itself as“beauty with an edge.” The copy reads, “Get this skin. Our Razor Sharp Ultra Definition Finishing Powder will blow your mind.” If you know what that means, please let us know. Question: Do you think that razor sharp is a relevant image for the face? Also, explain why the art director dropped in the fancy U D letters to dominate the page–and why the CMO signed off on it; yes, the art director won again. Finally, consumers don’t buy concepts;

Q: Why did you pick cosmetics for expansion as opposed to some other category? A: The cosmetics line was designed as a natural extension of the Burberry Girl. GA: So the target market is the Burberry Girl seeker who identifies with that trench coat. Guess that’s why the makeup shades are titled Trench 1 through Trench 9.

A recent advertising campaign for Urban Decay.

they buy product benefits, real or imagined. This one went over the edge.•

Q: How did Burberry decide on pricing? A: Burberry is a prestige luxury brand and our collection is priced as such. This collection offers all customers an entry point into the world of luxury. GA: Gee, we thought that Chanel had that spot all it to itself. Q: And what are the best selling products so far? A: Compact Foundation Trench #7, Liquid Foundation Trench #7, Natural Blush #2, Lip Cover #5, and Lip Glow #7....for the woman who wishes to enhance her beauty with effortless elegance. GA: So, to sum up: Permission-to-Believe is based on the Burberry image, and Permission-to-Buy is based on the assumption that rare elegance can be transferred from trench coats to beauty products. January 2011

happi.com

happi • 49

Uncovering the Controversies

Which Cloud Sunscreen There is much confusion surrounding the protective benefits of sunscreen. A noted dermatologist provides insight on this important segment.

T

not yet available. Moreover, it may take many years or decades to determine the potential protective effects of improved sunscreen formulations. Thus, it is reasonable to conclude that in conjunction with better education, future studies using these sunscreens in a corrective manner may demonstrate a preventive effect for BCC and melanoma.

benefit of sunscreens from UV radiation, a known carcinogen, is well established. However, important questions still surround sunscreens and several key ingredients. HAPPI recently sat down with Steven Q. Wang, MD, director of Dermatologic Surgery and Dermatology, Memorial SloanKettering Cancer Center at Basking Ridge, NJ, to discuss the controversies surrounding sunscreens. HE PROTECTIVE

Happi: Regular sunscreen use has proved effective at reducing the development of both squamous cell cancers (SCC) and actinic keratoses. Have there been any studies that show a statistically significant protective benefit of sunscreen against either basal cell carcinoma (BCC) or malignant melanoma? Wang: The evidence currently available indicates that regular sunscreen use provides prolonged protective benefit in preventing SCCs. However, while there is no demonstrated benefit of regular sunscreen use in reducing the incidence of BCC development, a trend toward reduced incidence of BCC tumors among sunscreen users has been observed. Furthermore, current data has demonstrated that sunscreens do not increase the risk of melanoma, but clinical evidence for its protective benefits remains inconclusive. January 2011

Happi: What about vitamin D? Does sunscreen use impair vitamin D production?

Steven Q. Wang

However a publication in the Journal of Clinical Oncology in 2010 featured a study from Australia in which the investigators showed a 50% reduction of melanoma in individuals who used sunscreens. One important limitation of all the available clinical and epidemiological evidence, however, is that most of the studies were conducted during the 1970s and 1980s when only sunscreens with low SPF and little to no UVA protection were available. Modern sunscreens have corrected these shortcomings. However, long-term studies using these newer sunscreens are happi.com

Wang: Considerable overlap exists between the UV absorption profiles of sunscreens and the action spectrum for vitamin D synthesis. In theory, correct usage of sunscreens should significantly reduce vitamin D levels. However, this is not the case in practice. In fact, several studies have demonstrated that sunscreens are rarely applied correctly, in the right dosages and with appropriate frequency. Therefore, under real-world conditions, it is likely that the improper use of sunscreen and/or increased exposure time results in normal production of vitamin D among sunscreen users. It is important to note that the level of cutaneous vitamin D production from UVB exposure is also influenced by seasons, latitude, obesity level and age. Hence, after considering all these factors, we dermatologists prefer dietary supplementation, instead of prolonged UV happi • 51

• Sunscreen Controversies

exposure, to maintain the sufficient levels of vitamin D. Happi: Regarding UV filters, is oxybenzone safe? Wang: Systemic absorption of oxybenzone after topical application in both humans and animals has garnered significant attention. It is important to note that systemic absorption did not result in clinically significant perturbations of hormonal homeostasis in humans. In fact, acute toxicity has not been reported in any of the in vivo or human studies published to date. While more work remains to be performed in this area, the available evidence does not demonstrate biologically significant hormonal disruption with topical application of oxybenzone in humans. Happi: Retinyl palmitate has found widespread use in cosmetic and sunscreen products during the past 20 years. Earlier this year, there was a flurry of media coverage discussing the photocarcinogenic potential of sunscreens containing retinyl palmitate. Can you comment on this issue? Wang: It is important to understand that retinyl palmitate is the storage form of retinol (vitamin A), an essential and endogenous nutrient for human beings. This compound is already present in our skin. All available evidence from in vitro and animal studies fails to demonstrate convincing evidence indicating that retinyl palmitate imparts an increased risk of skin cancer. Although published data on the photocarcinogenic potential of retinyl palmitate in humans are lacking, evidence from 40 years of use in clinical medicine provide a powerful basis from which to question the notion that retinyl palmitate in sunscreen is photocarcinogenic. Clinically, retinoids are used by dermatologists in two major areas of therapy. First, oral retinoids have been used with great success to prevent skin cancers in populations who are at high-risk, such as 52 • happi

In one Australian study, investigators showed a 50% reduction of melanoma in individuals who used sunscreens. patients with xeroderma pigmentosum and immunosuppressed patients. Second, dermatologists commonly prescribe topical retinoids in the management of skin disorders such as acne, psoriasis, photoaging, cutaneous T-cell lymphoma and a variety of other skin conditions. Among patients treated with topical or oral retinoids, no published data exists to date suggesting that these medications increase the risk of skin cancer. Happi: Has the controversy surrounding nanoparticles heated up? Wang: Nanoparticles exhibit different chemical, mechanical, electrical and optical properties than the standard-sized particles. Nano-scaled versions are postulated to also exhibit altered biological properties, which may have negative health implications. The recent integration of TiO2 and ZnO nanoparticles into sunscreens has raised interesting questions regarding the potential for dermal penetration, systemic absorption and subsequent toxicity. The increasing ubiquity of these nanocompounds in personal care and cosmetic products makes safety research especially relevant. Much concern has been voiced that the integration of nanomaterial technology into everyday formulations has outpaced the body of research evaluating their safety. Currently, the FDA does not have reguhappi.com

lations in place regarding the labeling of products containing nanoparticles of TiO2 and ZnO. Considerable data assessing the potential toxicity of these materials in sunscreens has been published to date, and studies were performed in controlled environments on healthy, undamaged skin. It has been established that the stratum corneum is an effective barrier preventing the entry of nano ZnO and TiO2 into deeper layers of the skin. Nonetheless, it remains to be determined whether a greater degree of penetration occurs through skin in conditions where the barrier function is damaged, or otherwise compromised. At the present time, however, the available data does not provide conclusive evidence demonstrating that damaged skin leads to increased penetration of nanoparticles. Happi: So, what’s your prognosis on the use of sunscreens and their role in preventing skin cancer? Wang: Sunscreens remain an effective tool in providing protection against the known carcinogenic effects of UV radiation. Sunscreens will continue to be a highly popular form of photoprotection in the foreseeable future. As modern formulations of sunscreens grow increasingly more sophisticated, ongoing monitoring to assess both the safety and efficacy of these products is needed. Preferably, these assessments should be conducted under real-world conditions that reflect the actual behaviors of the general public. Lastly, it is important to remember that sunscreen is only a part of the overall photoprotective strategy. We should also remind the public to avoid excessive UV exposure from the sun and wear hats and clothing for protection as well. •

About the Author Steven Q. Wang, MD, is a dermatologist practicing within the Dermatology Division at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Center, New York, NY. He can be reached at: [email protected] January 2010

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Alive and Kicking Hampered by the recession, the natural personal care products market is getting back on track. But will cash-strapped consumers who switched back to conventional products return to naturals in 2011? Christine Esposito and Melissa Meisel • Associate Editors

F

OR THE PAST DECADE,

consumers have migrated to products that boasted all kinds of natural extracts and botanicals beneficial to skin and hair, and even those less glamorous areas of personal upkeep like body odor and oral hygiene. And the rising tide of sentiment seemed to lift all boats—from the companies who made truly organic formulations to the so-called faux natural products, those that seemed to focus more on “green” marketing speak than the actual materials inside the bottle. Sales continued to rise, year after year after year, and new SKUs rolled out in rapid succession. But as the economy began to falter, so did sales of natural personal care products. According to market research firm Mintel, after growing by double digits between 2007 and 2008, natural/organic personal care (NOPC) sales declined 2% in 2009 to $462 million. But things could have been worse, if not for retail expansion and some very loyal consumers. Think back—natural personal care products were once relegated to the dusty aisles of the local independent health food market. Nowadays eco-friendly offerings can be found in most mass-market retailers and prestige outposts alike. As firms like Burt’s Bees and Tom’s of Maine expanded their presence in Walmart and Target, natural products became much more visible and accessible to the everyday consumer. January 2011

In addition, industry observers say hard-core naturals buyers remained committed to the category, even as they tightened their purse strings toward the end of the decade. According to survey data from Mintel, 55% of current NOPC users said they are using more NOPC products than they were a year ago. “We find that the natural/organic consumers, if they are already engaged in the sector, haven’t changed their behavior too much in the recession, other than to trade down to private label,” said David Browne, senior analyst with Mintel. Those factors helped the category rebound last year. According to Mintel’s forecasts, sales of NOPC at FDMx outlets and natural supermarkets were expected to rise 6.5% to $492.2 million by the end of 2010.

SKU Slowdown? FDM outlets have been investing in naturals—and not just by allocating more shelf space to marketers, but to themselves too. For example, in October, Safeway launched In-Kind, a line of natural personal care products for face, body and hair. The formulations are said to contain more than 90% natural ingredients, according to the Pleasanton, CA-based retailer, and are free of parabens, sulfates, phthalates and synthetic colors. Safeway helped promote the happi.com

New lavender hand sanitizer from Dr. Bronner’s.

new brand by sampling In-Kind at targeted events this fall, such as the Nike Women’s Marathon. Safeway may seem like a latecomer, but it entered the race at a good time; not only are private label personal care products considered more acceptable options, but there’s been an overall slowdown in the number of new introductions. According to Mintel’s Global New Products Database, the number of new natural/organic personal care introductions in the U.S. has been dropping steadily from a high of 1,300 in 2008 in to 1,100 in 2009 to 750 through the first 11 months of 2010. And while the launch pad is less crowded these days, executives at the Natural Products Association (NPA) insist there is growing interest in its natural certification process. According to Cara Welch, NPA’s scientific and regulatory affairs manager, 11 new companies were added to NPA ranks this year as well as 84 new products that now meet its Natural Standard for Personal Care Products. NPA’s current list of companies include happi • 55

• Natural Personal Care Products

high-profile green brands like Burt’s Bees, Aubrey Organics, W.S, Badger Company and Yes To… as well as some names one may not expect, like Wet n Wild, which has certified several Natural Wear lip shimmer SKUs, and Molly Mutt LLC, which makes products for pets including its NPA certified dog coat conditioner. “We have seen a decent increase in new companies,”Welch said about the influx of companies to NPA’s certified product list. She noted that start-ups and smaller companies are applying for the NPA seals prior to launching products. Plus, firms are coming back to renew their certifications—even as standards evolve. For example, as of Sept. 1, 2010, NPA requires all natural fragrances in finished natural personal care products—effectively eliminating absolutes and concretes, common fragrance ingredients that require the use of petrochemical solvents for extraction, and purely synthetic additives. The change affects new applicants as well as those products previously certified which are up for recertification.

New Naturals Having a point of differentiation, such as the NPA seal, the USDA Organic label or others, can help a brand stand out in what has become an extremely competitive marketplace. From multi-tasking beauty balms to soothing bath gels, more and more marketers are striving to offer more natural personal care products to consumers eager to go green and are getting their products on more retail shelves at big box stores, key drug store chains and department stores.

The makers of Ahava recently launched Dead Sea Essentials, a range of skin care products featuring a “perfectly balanced formulation” of essential natural ingredients, according to the company. The range—chock full of Dead Sea minerals and plant extracts—is now sold at Target stores nationwide. The line’s initial offering boasts nine products for face and body, all working to restore the essential equilibrium in skin’s natural moisture level and nutrient density. Products vary from Natural Dead Tea Tree Oil Foot Cream to Sea Bath Crystals. Ahava products specialize in high-end skin treatments made from mud and minerals sourced from the Dead Sea. Also new to the scene this season is One Love Organics. An independent brand, it claims to be the only water-free skin care line available in the U.S. Made in small, artisanal batches, the personal care collection contains pure ingredients like watermelon seed oil and organic Bulgarian rose oil. The newest addition is One Love Organics’ Skin Savior Waterless MultiBalm. Chock-full of omega-3 fatty acids, the balm features a gluten-free chia seed extract oil. Chia seed, an original food of the New World, was also a highly prized staple of the Aztec diet and is a whole food source of omega-3 fatty acids as well as a concentrated source of protein. The omega-3 protein found in chia seed oil is said to help smooth the appearance of wrinkles by helping to repair and maintain skin cells. Organic soybean oil is also used in the balm to produce a velvety texture and supply omega-3 fatty acids to the skin.

Hugo Naturals Receives Gluten-Free Seal Personal care marketer Hugo Naturals has been certified for the Celiac Sprue Association’s (CSA) Recognition Seal, designating the company’s full range of products as gluten-free and appropriate for the growing population with celiac disease. “As celiac disease diagnoses become increasingly commonplace, more and more people are seeking out products that will help them better manage their symptoms,” said Hugo Saavedra, co-founder of Hugo Naturals. “Third-party certification is necessary to keep consumers informed, and to have the CSA recognize us with its seal, showing that 56 • happi

Another unique debut is a botanical eyelash conditioner hitting the market from a company called Padina Cosmetics. Said to be a first of its kind in the industry, the formulation is derived from a total of 23 different herbal extracts and contains the exact proteins each eyelash is composed of in order to offer growth enhancement and volume. It uses citruline, ginseng and tyrosine, according to the company.

Natural Abundance Juice Beauty, the company known for offering organic beauty products based on juice extracts, is taking its skin care range to the next level with its latest release, according to the company. Utilizing a proprietary blend of fruit stem cells with fat-soluble vitamin C, Juice Beauty’s new Stem Cellular Repair Facial Moisturizer and Stem Cellular Eye Treatment will raise the bar for natural anti-aging products. “With our own proprietary blend of organic fruit stem cells rich in vitamin C, Stem Cellular Repair Moisturizer & Eye Treatment will help decrease DNA damage and accelerate cellular proliferation to help repair, renew and protect your skin. This is the perfect moisturizer for day and night with advanced age-defying benefits,”said Karen Behnke, founding partner, Juice Beauty. Launching this month is natural marketer Mama Mio’s newest product, Skin Tight Toning Serum. A body care breakthrough that brings facial peel technology to the body, this major multi-tasker delivers four key benefits: tightening, exfoliation, moisturizing and anti-aging, in just one step. Papaya enzymes exfoliate, bringing new young cells to the skin’s surface, while

we are a wholesome choice for those with celiac disease, is an honor.” Initiated in 2004, the CSA Recognition Seal Program was the first of its kind in the U.S. To qualify for the seal, Hugo Naturals provided the CSA with its specific procedures and policies for producing products and agreed to adhere to the CSA’s standards for processing and packaging. The product range includes more than 150 SKUs in such categories as soaps, body and hand lotions, hair care products, face and body scrubs, baby care products and more. They are sold primarily in specialty food and independent health and beauty retail channels.

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• Natural Personal Care Products

a soy protein complex tightens the surface of the skin,“ironing out”slack skin for an instant fix. Uniprosyn is an anti-aging bioactive super-blend of oat protein, ATP and vitamin B3 proven in labs to decrease creasing, reduce the depth of wrinkles and boost protein production in the skin. Boscia, a natural skin care brand best known for being preservative free, is rolling out its Oil-Free Nightly Hydration Mois-

The latest innovation in beauty is botanical eyelash treatments, like this one from Padina.

turizer. Ideal for oily skin types, the formu-

What Do Formulators Want? There are opportunities for greener alternatives in household cleaning products.

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ONSUMERS SAY THEY WANT greener ingredients, not only in their shampoos and cleansers, but in their hard surface cleaners and detergents too. How can formulators get started on this potentially arduous transition? Amway’s Phil Sliva of the Green Chemistry Institute of the American Chemical Society (ACS) provided some guidance at a household cleaning product conference sponsored by Intertech Pira (for more on the conference, see p. 89 in the December issue of HAPPI). The ACS created the Green Chemistry Institute Formulator’s Roundtable in an effort to create better, more sustainable ingredients. More specifically, the roundtable’s priorities include informing and influencing suppliers and academia to develop greener alternatives.

A Green Grocery List Sliva noted that moving toward green chemistry is a continuous process and that the Institute’s roundtable bases its search on the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry. The best opportunities for greener alternatives, according to Sliva, are: • Antimicrobials; • Solvents; • Small amines; • Chelants and sequestrants; • Boron replacements; • Fragrance raw materials; • Corrosion inhibitors; • Alkanolamide replacements; • Surfactants; and • UV absorbers. Unfortunately, developing these greener alternatives is a tall order. As Sliva noted, finding a green alternative to antimicrobials is challenging simply by the fact that antimicrobials are designed to kill. That said, desirable characteristics of greener antimicrobials include: rapidacting, broad spectrum (gram positive and gram negative bacteria, yeasts and molds), compatibility with a wide range of ingredients, stable and active over a wide pH 2.5-11.5. Yet, these alternatives must 58 • happi

lation features oil-moderating botanicals with antibacterial benefits as well as antioxidants. Key ingredients include silica powder and burdock root to combat excess oil, refine pores and prevent mid-day shine; polysaccharides to provide energy to dull skin, allowing it to regain its health and vitality; a complex of algae extract to protect and help repair external damage caused by environmental stress and UV rays; and

be cost-effective, have acceptable odor and color and be soluble in the product base, water or oil. Of course, it would be helpful to find some greener solvents, too. The roundtable’s list of desirable attributes for greener solvents includes renewable and expandable resource use, reduced carbon footprint and VOC emissions, low toxicity, high biodegradability, greener production process, renewable feedstock based on non-food supply, and broad and varied applications. Sliva noted that small amines, including MEA, DEA and TEA, are used by both home and personal care formulators to lower the pH source of alkalinity, provide superior stability in high concentration formulas and improve grease removal, corrosion inhibition and film and streak prevention. However, as Sliva noted, secondary amines can form nitrosamines, so greener alternatives are needed. A greener small amine replacement would have organic alkalinity that requires less water than inorganic counter ions. It would also neutralize anionic surfactants and relatively low pH fatty acids, and be compatible with a wide range of ingredients. Moreover, it would positively impact finished product physical properties, such as improved freezethaw recovery, compared to inorganic alkalinity sources. Sliva noted that greener surfactants have a lot of potential—worth in excess of $20 billion, according to SRI Consulting. The best green surfactants would be readily biodegradable, with low aquatic toxicity (LCA50>10mg/l). Moreover, the feedstocks would have no adverse impact on the food supply or eco-diversity. “The manufacturing processes should be designed considering the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry,” observed Sliva. “The Cleangredients List/DfE has established good criteria,” he added. The roundtable’s goal is to be a driving force in the formulated products industry to use green chemistry in creating innovative products that are environmentally sustainable throughout the product lifecycle and safer to make and use. The roundtable already includes well-known companies such as Amway, S.C. Johnson, Zep, Arm & Hammer (Church & Dwight), Johnson & Johnson, Bissel, Diversey, Rug Doctor, Clorox, State Industrial and Seventh Generation. Together, this formidable organization’s purchasing power exceeds $1 billion. However, Sliva noted that even more could be accomplished when stakeholders—formulators, suppliers, academia, government and NGOs—collaborate. More info: www.acs.org/gciformulators; Email: [email protected]

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Natural Personal Care Products

licorice root, an effective antioxidant that treats blemishes and calms irritated skin, combats hyperpigmentation and lightens the appearance of blemish marks. It also features Boscia’s Proprietary Botanical Blend of willowherb and jojoba leaf. Evolution of Smooth (EOS), a natural personal care brand sold at Walgreens, Rite Aid and online, is best known for its sphere-shaped lip balms. Its latest addition to the line is an antibacterial variety. Also, now EOS is branching out into body care with a new line of lotions for 2011. Its new hand cream is infused with moisturizing shea butter and oat extract, as well as vitamins C and E. Its unique pebble-shape is designed for portability, said the company. Tarte is also bulking up its skin care offerings in its tinted moisturizer range with Smooth Operator Amazonian Clay Illuminating Serum. According to the company, this natural skin brightener is infused with Amazonian clay, vitamins and tea extract to moisturize and replenish skin as it adds a hint of glimmer. Amazonian clay minimizes oil in and around pores to balance skin and keep product in place. It also utilizes Tarte’s “skinvigorating” ingredients like rosemary extract to smooth and hydrate skin; sugar cane extract to improve texture; apple, lemon and orange extracts, a trifecta of natural fruit antioxidants that nourish skin as well as camellia oleifera leaf, a plant extract with healing benefits. For those on the go, Dr. Bronner’s is expanding its Shikaki personal care collection with its new USDA Certified Organic Lavender Hand Sanitizing Spray made from 62% organic ethanol, water, organic glycerin and organic lavender oil. These little 2oz. bottles pack a punch, as each one provides more than 500 sprays. At natural marketer Lush, the latest innovation is the Hottie Massage Bar. Specially made for extra sore muscles, this textured body bar is said to enhance circulation. Black pepper and ginger oil are added for extra stimulation and warmth to relieve muscle tension and aches. The jojoba and butter base melts onto the skin, according to the company. And, true to ecofriendly Lush fashion, the massage bar is January 2011

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softens the skin, while white tea extract acts as an antioxidant and astringent. Pomegranate features a tropical scent as well as apricot kernel oil that moisturizes and conditions, while pomegranate improves overall skin quality.

Mounting a Comeback EOS’ antibacterial lip balm naturally fights colds.

sold “naked” and can be stored in the brand’s reusable massage bar tins. Chaz Dean, Hollywood celebrity hairstylist and pioneer creator of Wen Cleansing Conditioners sold on QVC, added a pomegranate variation to his line of nonlathering universal cleansers. According to the company, Dean chose pomegranate as the base ingredient for his latest creation because the fruit is widely known for its natural cleansing, healing and moisturizing properties. The new product features a blend of pomegranate, rosemary and chamomile extracts, organic aloe vera leaf juice, avocado oil and other botanicals to cleanse the scalp. It joins Wen’s Cleansing Conditioners in signature scents of Sweet Almond Mint, Fig, Cucumber Aloe, Lavender and Tea Tree. Finally, for a woman’s delicate skin, Aubrey Organics’ Crème de la Shave pampers and protects for a luxurious, ultrasmooth shave with fruit emollients, according to the company. New this winter is White Tea & Citrus and Pomegranate variations. In the White Tea & Citrus shaving crème, white camellia oil hydrates and

Save the Date: Sustainable Cosmetics Summit North American Edition Some of the leading organizations involved in sustainability in the beauty industry will be gathering at the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in New York on May 12-14. The fourth edition of this executive summit looks at the various ways beauty companies can reduce their social and environmental impacts. Major topics on the summit agenda include ethical sourcing, natural and organic formu-

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Mintel expects NOPC market sales will exceed $560 million by 2011, an increase of nearly 14% over 2010. A healthy recovery indeed, but how close the marketplace comes to hitting those numbers is in the hands of fickle consumers. Between 40-63% of consumers use a combination of natural and traditional products, depending on the product/category, according to Browne. And it is those shoppers—the fence sitters or occasional buyers of natural personal care products— who will likely influence the market in 2011 and beyond. So when those consumers reach the end of the shampoo, toothpaste and antiperspirant, they are likely to weigh all their options—after all more Americans say they are using coupons, watching for sales and running down their stockpiles before heading out to buy more product. “It is very likely that they will make decisions every day as products run out—’Do I buy another Tom’s deodorant or skip it this time and pick up the Gillette on sale at CVS?’” said Browne. “Their spending became very discretionary during the recession. Some habits may stick, and it is a question of whether or not they will come back. That is a real ‘if’.”•

lations, biodiversity, green marketing and sustainable packaging. Organized by Organic Monitor, this series of international summits focuses on the leading issues the beauty industry faces concerning sustainability, natural, organic, fair trade and ecological products. The aim is to encourage sustainability in the beauty industry by bringing together key stakeholders and debate these major issues in a high-level forum. More info: sustainablecosmeticssummit.com

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Up & Coming A look at some of the rising stars in today’s skin care marketplace. Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor

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NNOVATION IS THE KEY to success in the personal care business— and there seems to be no shortage of “the next big thing” on how to make skin of all ages gleam and glow. But it’s not only the major corporations that have the R&D manpower to discover that next big cream, salve or serum…HAPPI scoured the U.S. marketplace for independent, under-the-radar companies that are rolling out noteworthy skin care SKUs this season and may give the big guys a run for their money.

Straight from Scandinavia Freya+ Skincare New York, NY www.freyaskincare.com Key Personnel: Ole Sandberg, founder and brand visionary; Dr. Runhild Gammelsaeter, lead, research and development Major Products: Freya+ Skincare line New Products: Arctic Cleansing Water, Hydrating Day Cream, Intensive Anti-Aging Serum, Firming Eye Cream and Restorative Night Cream Thirty years of research on the healing properties of marine Omega-3s and arctic antioxidants at the University of Troms—the world’s only university located above the Polar Circle—have resulted in a breakthrough discovery by Scandinavian cell physiology expert Dr. Runhild Gammelsaeter and the creation of a cutting edge skin care The Freya+ system features system, Freya+. This sciencea variety of antioxidants. driven, Nordicrooted skin care system combines the best of ScanJanuary 2011

dinavia’s natural resources with the world’s leading biomarine scientific research, according to the company. “When we saw the research coming out of Norway, we knew that it would be the basis for a very unique and ground-breaking skin care system,”said Ole Sandberg, founder of the collection and co-founder of the Voss artisan water brand. “The combination of salmon-derived Omega-3s, which can only be found in our line, along with our proprietary Lexa Complex and arctic antioxidants, makes for a powerhouse collection of anti-aging products that are truly in a class of their own.” Lexa, a biologically active plasma containing unique biomarine proteins and peptides, communicates with fibroblast cells that produce collagen, causing them to act like stem cells. According to the company, Lexa revives these cells, making them divide faster, and has been clinically proven to stimulate collagen production by 500%. Taken in its natural form from salmon egg cytoplasm and frozen immediately, the complex is naturally packed with the powerful active substances that are responsible for the cell regeneration and rapid growth potential that exist in an egg before birth. It includes antioxidants, vitamins and minerals that repair and prevent free-radical damage, fine lines and wrinkles. Norwegian bilberry, cloudberry and lingonberry, three native fruits that are rich in potent natural antioxidants, are also present in the formulations. The skin care collection recently debuted at Studio at Fred Segal, C.O. Bigelow and online.

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• Up & Coming Skin Care

Celebrating a Milestone Merlot Skin Care El Paso, TX www.merlotskincare.com Key Personnel: Wayne Beckley, chief executive officer; Michele Beckley, vice president-operations; Nicole Beckley, vice presidentmarketing and media relations; Drew Beckley, director of logistics Major Products: Merlot Moisturizer, Merlot Moonlight Radiance Night Cream, Merlot Purifying Peel Off Mask New Products: 3-in-1 Blemish/Acne Treatment, Body Butter, Chin Up Neck Firming Cream His friends call him Dr. Grapes, others often refer to him as Mr. Merlot. With his signature skin care line, Wayne Beckley, creator of Merlot Skin Care, is quickly gaining a new title, “Father of Grape Seed Technology.” More than 10 years ago while watching “60 Minutes,” Beckley first learned of “the French Paradox”in a report on people in France who consumed diets heavy in saturated fat, but who seemed to suffer virtually no heart disease. The report linked the findings to the drinking of red wine. Intrigued, Beckley chronicled more than 70 research studies that indicated that drinking a couple glasses of red wine each day could be beneficial in warding off certain cancers and lowering cholesterol in the body. The reason: the antioxidants found in red grapes. Investigating further, Beckley found studies revealing the grape’s true power, their seeds. Research studies have shown that grape seed antioxidants are 50 times more powerful than vitamin E and nearly 25 times more powerful than vitamin C.

In 2001, Beckley launched Merlot Skin Care, which utilized the power of the grape seed in each unique formulation. Harnessing nature’s most powerful antioxidants, Merlot products work to fight free radicals— molecules caused by smoke, smog, pollution, stress and UV rays—and protect skin against the signs of aging. He initially created three products—a moisturizer, cleanser and eye cream; today the Merlot line has grown to include 18 SKUs. And it’s still growing. “While I hadn’t had any experience in the cosmetic industry, my background was in chemistry and marketing/sales,” Beckley told HAPPI. “I knew that I wanted to make products that contained no parabens or mineral oils, and which conducted no animal testing.” The Merlot line was first sold in five Walgreens stores, and from there it spread to chain-wide distribution (7,000+) and all Ulta stores. Additionally, Merlot can be found in winery and hotel gift shops and online. “Our plans for 2011 are to increase distribution dramatically,” said Beckley. Now the natural grape seed-based skin care brand has kicked off its 10-year anniversary celebration, which will run throughout 2011 and includes new purple packaging and three new product launches, a 3-in-1 Blemish/Acne Treatment, a hydrating Body Butter and Chin Up Neck Firming Cream. While the line has grown to include 18 products, including a Purifying Peel Off Mask and a Hydrating Toner, the signature Merlot Facial Moisturizer continues to be the line’s most popular offering. Business has doubled each year for the past three years. “Merlot is a brand that knows the power of natural grape seed antioxidants can be used to achieve beautiful skin,” said Beckley. “We are proud that our moisturizer has become a staple of so many women’s daily beauty routines.”

An Instant Hit Hydroxatone Jersey City, NJ www.hydroxatone.com Merlot Skin Care uses the power of grape seed for antiaging components.

Key Personnel: Andrew Surwilo, co-chief executive officer; Thomas Shipley, co-chief executive officer; Andy Siegel, chief marketing officer; Darek Hrynkiewicz, chief operating officer; Pete Maclearie, chief financial officer; Nancy Gallo, vice president of marketing Major Products: Hydroxatone AM/PM Rejuvenating Treatment. Other leading items include Hydrolyze Under Eye Treatment and Lashatone New Products: Pore Minimizer, Age-Defying Self Tanner, Intensive Youth Serum, Hydroxatone Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Complex Anti-aging skin care brand Hydroxatone made its retail debut in Ulta in April 2010 and achieved Top 10 vendor status in the pres-

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Up & Coming Skin Care

tige department in less than six months, according to the company. Co-CEOs Andrew Surwilo and Thomas Shipley were named finalists in the 2010 Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year for New Jersey; and Hydroxatone parent company, Atlantic Coast Media Group (ACMG), was named in the Inc. 500 This AM/PM skin care treatment Fastest-Growing Private Com- is a major product at Hydroxatone. panies list as the No. 29 FastestGrowing Private Company in the consumer products and services category. Annual sales for 2009 were $104 million; 2010 projected sales are $150 million, according to the company. The big launch for 2011 comes in March, with the debut of Intensive Youth Serum. The product is said to extract the healing and protective components from aquatic plants to activate the antiaging process. The marine stem cells and enzymes work at the surface cellular level to promote healthy-looking skin and are elevated by combining with proven anti-aging complexes. According to the company, the product is a potent, high-performance treatment to fight visible signs of photoaging. At the core is the brand’s Hydrosome Complex, a proprietary anti-aging blend specifically engineered to deposit powerful ingredients precisely where they need to go onto the skin for fast, visible results and long-

The Online Source

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term beautiful looking skin. This complex also incorporates photosomes, enzymes derived from ocean plankton unique in their ability to harness light energy to promote healthy skin appearance; ultrasomes, extracts from a marine microbe that support the skin for a healthier and more glowing appearance; roxisomes, which contain a purified enzyme that nourishes the skin; and Matrixyl 3000, one of the most powerful anti-aging ingredients available that helps to reduce the appearance of even deep wrinkles. This year, Hydroxatone distribution will be expanded to include Look Boutique at Duane Reade.

Beauty from the Heart Skin 2 Skin Care Palm Springs, CA www.Skin2SkinCare.com Key Personnel: Ken Simpson, founder, chief executive officer and president; Michael McCoy, chief operating officer Major Products: Anti-Sagging Renewal Serum, Photoaging Repair Cream, Revitalizing Eye Gel New Products: 24/7 Rejuvenation Skin 2 Skin Care products have a focus on anti-aging. With the motto “Beauty at any age is beauty,” its products use the highest recommended concentrations of peptides, alpha lipoic acid, antioxidants, moisturizers and anti-inflammatory ingredients to

Lauren Crist, beauty, health and personal care spokesperson for Amazon.com in Seattle, took a moment to talk with HAPPI about the latest trends in up and coming skin care.

LC: Absolutely. The growth of beauty blogs lends itself to a large “demand for the new” and the use of the internet as a medium for skin care promotion means a larger audience is aware of smaller, more independently owned companies.

Happi: Why would consumers want to seek out up and coming skin care brands as opposed to the tried and true?

Happi: What areas of skin care could a new company benefit in and why?

Lauren Crist: Most consumers seek out value-for-money when looking for a skin care brand. They’ve also become more demanding of products that address particular problems, which is leading to more product innovation across the board. If an up-and-coming brand offers that innovation at a better price point, consumers are more likely to at least try that product even if they ultimately go back to their tried and true product line. Also, there is definitely a movement afoot to be more conscious of what ingredients go into the products we use every day. This means the demand for natural and organic products, which often come from smaller companies, is growing. This is a trend that has hit the shelves within the last few years, but it’s all about personal preference.

LC: Both the anti-aging category and natural/ethical skin care categories show large growth among consumers. Anti-aging is one of the strongest growth areas for marketers, both for the Baby Boomer generation and a younger generation looking for preventative products. Natural and organic products are also growing in appeal, not only for what goes into their formulas, but also for the ethical and environmentally-friendly practices involved in their production. Ingredients matter, but so does the way the product is packaged and how it is made. The beauty of Amazon.com is that it has the niche brands such as EcoTools, Shea Terra Organics, Jurlique as well as perennial drugstore favorites like Nivea, Olay and Neutrogena, among others, so there is a diverse choice of options.

Happi: Is there a niche market for independent skin care brands?

January 2011

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• Up & Coming Skin Care

achieve quick, noticeable results without the use of carcinogens, according to the company. Consisting of serums, cleansers, moisturizers, masks and creams, Skin 2 Skin Care is recommended for men and women, ages 20 and up of all skin types—from sensitive to dry. Using a combination of cutting-edge peptide technology and 20 certified organic botanical extracts made in a FDA and USDA/California Organic Certified lab, Skin 2 Skin Care is redefining what it means to be green. For example, the company recently incorporated a new honeysuckle preservative system into its products. Its latest rollout is 24/7 Rejuvenation, a cream formulated specifically for maturing skin to preSkin 2 Skin uses vent signs of premature aging. With four Smart cutting-edge pep- Antiaging peptides (Tego-PEP 4-17 at 5%, HyaCare50 at 2%, Melanostaine5 at 4% and Eukartide technology. ion134 at 0.5%), these “21st century mega-components”stimulate and facilitate collagen and hyaluronic acid production to increase and maintain volume and elasticity while tightening and lifting, according to the company. According to founder Ken Simpson, “Skin 2 Skin Care has hardly been around for two years and has received eight national beauty awards for best products, which has been such an honor. We are often referred to as one of the most ethical skin care companies in the U.S. This is due to the fact that we are 100% upfront with what is in our products and why.” This year, Skin 2 Skin Care also received its PETA and vegan certification as a skin care line that does not test on animals or have any animal ingredients (including beeswax)—catering to a growing green marketplace. “Our distribution has grown 120% month after month,”Simpson told HAPPI. “Our distribution plan is to be in doctors’ offices, medical spas, resort and day spas, e-commerce and high end specialty stores in and outside the U.S. market.” In 2010, the company signed an agreement to begin distributing products in the Scandinavian doctors’ offices and spas. It is also expanding distribution into England, Canada and Brazil by the end of 2011. Simpson is no stranger to the beauty business, as he has been helping men and women attain healthy, beautiful and youthful skin for more than 25 years. Growing up in Honolulu, he was introduced to natural products at a young age. This spiked his curiosity for understanding ingredients and coming up with new ways to use them. This know-how led him to a career in the retail and design sector, working in product development and merchandising with retailers including Neiman Marcus, Henri Bendel and Felissimo NY. He also played an integral part in the creation of KSL Resort & Spa’s Signature Brands. According to Simpson, it was his job to research every minute 64 • happi

detail regarding ingredients, what was healthy, what was effective and what to avoid. This knowledge came in handy during what would turn out to be one of the most trying times of his life. Simpson was diagnosed with a brain tumor and underwent extensive proton radiation therapy. The radiation combined with the drugs wreaked havoc on his skin, aging it overnight. A skin care expert, Simpson went on the hunt for a product that would get his skin back in shape as he got his life back together. It was then that he stumbled upon a realization that would shape the rest of his career. In 2009, Simpson launched his own personal care line. His vision was simple: create a product line that is about more than just anti-aging—it is about smart anti-aging. “When your skin looks good, you feel good about yourself by showing off your best face at any age,”he said.“That is why I chose the motto ‘beauty at any age is beauty.’As a society we need to start celebrating the innate beauty that comes with every year we live.”

A Breath of Fresh Air Oxygen Biotherapeutics Inc. Durham, NC www.buydermacyte.com Key Personnel: Richard Kiral, president; Gerald Klein, chief medical officer; Michael Jebsen, chief financial officer; Chris Stern, chief executive officer; Jennifer Rabin, national sales director; Maria Isabel Tamargo, vice president of marketing Major Products: Dermacyte Oxygen Concentrate New Products: Three new oxygenating products will be launched in 2011 to expand this unique brand. Oxygen treatments have emerged in the past few years as a new form of skin care. From creams to spray treatments (including oxygen inhalation), many spas and dermatology offices across the country now offer oxygen-based products and treatments to clients. Previously, the only way to deliver oxygen to the skin was through hyperbaric oxygen chambers. Recently, Oxygen Biotherapeutics introduced Dermacyte Oxygen Concentrate, a skin care product that provides high concentrations of oxygen directly to the skin without side effects, according to the company. The cream is absorbed rapidly without leaving an oily residue. Dermacyte Oxygen Concentrate was created by a team of scientists who worked 15 years to develop oxyDermacyte features high gen-based treatments for life-threatening medical conditions. Helped by concentrations of oxygen.

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Up & Coming Skin Care

the miracle of modern technology and after extensive research, they discovered a unique and highly effective carrier that allows the transfer of large amounts of dissolved natural oxygen without the use of chemical activators like hydrogen peroxide, which is known to dry skin. “What makes us unique is our history and product line,” said Maria Isabel Tamargo, vice president of marketing.“The co-founder of Oxygen Biotherapeutics, which is the parent company of Dermacyte, was Leland Clark. He was often referred to as the ‘Edison of Medicine.’” According to Tamargo, Clark has developed more than 13 important medical inventions such as the heart-lung machine. During his research in the 1940s to create artificial kidneys, he discovered that blood could be oxygenated and started focusing his research on oxygen therapies, which later led to the creation of a device that measures oxygen content in the blood, water and other liquids. His extensive research and knowledge in oxygen therapies eventually led to the creation of oxycyte, which is a third generation oxygen carrier designed to enhance oxygen delivery to damaged tissues. “This gives Dermacyte a very unique advantage since no other company can use our advanced and effective oxygen carrier backed by years of science in their product,” said Tamargo. “Unlike other oxygen brands, Dermacyte does not use hydrogen peroxide in its products to oxygenate the skin since hydrogen peroxide has been associated with drying, bleaching and damaging the skin.” Currently, Dermacyte is sold at online at dermstore.com.

For The Guys… Evolution Man LLC North Hollywood, CA www.evolution-man.com

New Products: Cleanse & Shave, Wash & Buff, Moisture Protect SPF 20, Conceal & Treat, Lip Balm SPF 15, Revitalize Eye Gel Men’s image has evolved from the Victorian Age with its heavy, white makeup to the Wild West’s curled mustache to the sideburns of the 1970s. But under today’s media magnifying glass, whether on high definition TV, Skype or webcam, men are now hyper-aware of skin imperfections and are open to grooming products that solve aesthetic challenges. As a result, hairstylist, groomer and makeup artist for A-list celebrities such as Jonathan Rhys Meyers, Patrick Dempsey and LeBron James, Marco Berardini has created Evolution Man, a new skin care collection. “My male clients, as a whole, had a feeling of overwhelming confusion when choosing skin care products,” explained Berardini. “I saw a need for high-quality, multifunctional products that weren’t too clinical or too kitschy, with an environmental sensibility.” Made of post consumer grade plastic, the range features everything from Cleanse & Shave, a dual-action face wash that doubles as a shaving salve; to Conceal & Treat, a blendable concealer that also covers blemishes or razor rash. “Evolution Man is creating a green footprint A lip balm with SPF by using eco-friendly products and services to designed for guys. create a better, more sustainable environment,” Berardini told HAPPI. “Our products are multifunctional and are high-end quality for an affordable price. Newly launched in the U.S., we will be expanding our retail distribution into Canada for 2011. This is proof positive that environmental can be stylish.”

Beauty Inside Out In&Out Different Beauty Geneva, Switzerland and New York, NY www.inoutbeauty.com

Key Personnel: Marco Berardini, chief executive officer; Valerie Patton, chief operating officer Major Products: Lip Balm SPF 15, Revitalize Eye Gel

Key Personnel: Alain Obadia, chief executive officer; Julia Petrini, chief operating officer Major Products: Anti-Age Day Smoothing Berardini

Petrini

Sephora Wants a Piece of the Skin Care Pie

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HOTSPOT FOR THE HOTTEST prestige makeup, fragrance, hair care and

skin care brands, Sephora knows what shoppers want. So, it’s no wonder the retailer created its own line of skin care products, joining the popular Sephora line of cosmetics. This month, it rolled out Sephora Collection Skincare, a complete range of 19 targeted care products to cleanse, treat, moisturize and protect, according to the company. At the core of the collection is HydroSenn+, a new and exclusive plant-derived active ingredient proven in clinical testing to be more efJanuary 2011

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fective than hyaluronic acid at adding moisture to the skin, according to the company. Sephora Collection Skincare also features bright colors, lavish formulas and refreshing scents, according to the company. All of the face products feature a fresh green floral aroma, while the body products feature green tea blended with hyacinth, jasmine, sandalwood and white musk. Straightforward product names, clear product achievement descriptors and color-coded packaging based on solutions make the line easy to shop and easy to understand, according to Sephora. More info: www.sephora.com

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• Up & Coming Skin Care

Major Products: SeneDerm Solutions Endothermic Mask, SeneDerm Solutions LashExtend, MakeSense Hydration Foundation New Products: Gentle, low-odor depilatory for face and body, skin lightener to help with hyperpigmentation and sun and aging spots, hair growth stimulator

In&Out Beauty, originally from Switzerland, expanded into the U.S.

Lotion, Anti-Age Day & Night Serum, Anti-Age Day & Night Eye Contour, Sensitive & Reddish Skin Mask, Sensitive & Reddish Skin Day Lotion, Sensitive & Reddish Skin Night Cream, Brightening Mask, Migraine Synergy Complex New Products: Normalizing Face Exfoliator, Skin Purifying Lotion Switzerland-based prestige skin care marketer In&Out Different Beauty is out to conquer the U.S. Recently, it appointed veteran beauty executive Julia Petrini to lead the company’s North American expansion as chief operating officer. With more than 18 years in the prestige beauty business, her main role is to strategically manage the day-to-day operations of the company for the North American market. “When I initially learned about In&Out Different Beauty, I was drawn to the unique internal and external approach to overall wellness,” said Petrini.“Opening the flagship store in New York City is just the beginning of our U.S. expansion. Our goal is to make a big impression within the competitive prestige market as we prepare to redefine the standard in luxury skin care.” With the opening of In&Out Different Beauty’s flagship boutique on New York City’s Madison Avenue, the brand expands its international reach to join the existing state-of-the-art stands at the Paris Gallery outlets in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Bahrain, as well as a new e-commerce site at www.inoutbeauty.com “We have recently launched an e-commerce website, allowing customers in the USA to purchase products online,” said Petrini. “We are currently engaged in discussions with prestige retailers, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Blue Mercury and Murale in Canada, for a wider distribution of In&Out Different Beauty products.” Petrini added the company is currently in the process of distributing certain products to the Alvadora Spa in the Royal Palms Hotel. “We have created spa treatments based on our Sensitive & Reddish Skin, Anti-Age, and Skin Purifying lines,” she said. “We hope that this will be the launching pad for further expansion.”

Dry skin reacts most dramatically to climactic elements. SeneGence International, an anti-aging skin care brand sold through a network of independent distributors, recently introduced a skin care regimen for parched skin types. The SeneDerm Dry SkinCare Collection features Daytime Moisturizer, Evening Moisturizer and a reformulated and repackaged 3-in-1 Cleanser. According to the company, this basic regimen is specially formulated to hydrate the driest of skin with lavish ingredients such as moringa oil, which can be temporarily bound to skin’s surface to slow the penetration of damaging free radicals into the deeper layers of the epidermis. The product range is also centered on SenePlex Complex, a kinetic enzyme that increases cellular renewal. “We have continued our trend of increased growth in both sales and sponsoring new distributors year over year,”said marketing and public relations coordinator Michelle Puig. “We launched many new products in 2010, including a variety of new specialized treatment The SeneGence International products within our SeneDerm Soskin care collection targets lutions category. Solutions products were created to serve as effective consumers with dry skin issues. ‘solutions’ for an array of targeted specific skin and personal care needs such as wrinkles, sparse eyelashes, thin lips, cellulite and weak/brittle nails.” In 2011, SeneGence says it will continue to develop new products and expand its international distribution. All products are formulated with FDA-approved ingredients, made in pharmaceutical grade facilities and made in the U.S. for tight quality control, according to the company.

The Power of Ayurveda

Targeting Thirsty Skin

Pratima Ayurvedic Skincare New York, NY www.pratimaskincare.com

SeneGence International Irvine, CA www.senegence.com

Key Personnel: Dr. Pratima Raichur Key Personnel: Joni Rogers-Kante, founder and chief executive officer; Ben Kante, chief operating officer; Michael Moad, president; Carmen Holladay, operations manager; Kirsten Aguilar, marketing manager 66 • happi

Major Products: Pratima Love Oil, Pratima Neem Rose Face Sunscreen, Pratima Rejuvenating Pearl Cream, Pratima Age Delay Serum, Pratima Sandalwood Soothing Lotion

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Up & Coming Skin Care

New Products: Pratima Diamond Botanical Facial Refiner, Absolute Eye Nourishing Oil, Baby Botanical Diaper Healing Balm, Botanical Baby Powder, Kokum Butter Herbal Lip Therapy Uniting the ancient healing practice of Ayurveda with modern science, Dr. Pratima Raichur has introduced a generation of followers to the power of Ayurvedic skin care. After all, “oil is love,” she told HAPPI about her coveted product line. From her holistic spa nestled in the heart of SoHo to her hand-blended organic products, Raichur has helped thousands of men and women unlock balanced, rejuvenated, healthy skin by addressing inner imbalances that radiate outward, according to the company. A trained chemist, botanist, Ayurvedic doctor and aesthetician, Raichur has been practicing Ayurveda for more than 30 years, and is internationally recognized as a pioneer in the field. In 1980, she founded Pratima Ayurvedic Skincare Spa, the first destination in New York to practice the 5,000 year-old art of Indian medicine in a modern spa setting. The spa offers private health consultations to identify and remedy imbalances from a holistic standpoint as well as skin care and bodywork treatments, meditation guidance and detox programs. It also sells a variety of skin care products. Now for the first time, Pratima’s skin care collection will be available through pratimaskincare.com, bringing Ayurvedic science to consumers everywhere. The website features an in-depth Dosha Analysis, allowing users to identify their Dosha, or skin type, and effectively correct imbalances that are visibly manifested through the complexion. The website also includes a detailed overview of Ayurvedic skin care featuring product tips and lifestyle recommendations—as well as a glossary of herbs revealing why Raichur handpicked the herbs, plants, roots, flowers, minerals and essential oils used in her skin care collection. The company’s newest product is the Pratima Diamond Botanical Facial Refiner, January 2011

an organic complexion refiner developed to exfoliate, soften, tone and tighten skin. Free of chemicals and preservatives, the holistic treatment is comprised exclusively of potent hand-blended botanicals, according to the company. Fast-absorbing aloe vera shields skin from toxins and relieves irrita-

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tion, as khus powder provides anti-inflammatory and antiseptic benefits, cooling and toning the skin. Rose essential oil nourishes, cools and calms; while vitamins A, C and E protect and repair the skin, fending off free radicals and reducing the appearance of fine lines. •

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Unlock the Secret To Eternal Youth Stem cells are the fountain of youth for skin. Rahn has screened uncharacterized as well as established cosmetic actives for their stem cell protecting properties and has observed impressive results for two of them. Stefan Baenziger, Ph.D. • Rahn AG

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TEM CELLS HAVE EXCITING potential for

many areas of biomedicine as well as skin care. This potential derives from two important characteristics that distinguish them from other cells. First, stem cells can renew themselves indefinitely in an undeveloped or undifferentiated state and second, they can differentiate into different specialized cell types. Mammals, including humans, have two types of stem cells. Embryonic stem cells are, as the name implies, derived from embryos. They are called pluripotent because they can generate any cell type in the body (i.e., >200 different cell types), including brain, heart, liver and skin. Adult stem cells are relatively undifferentiated, but they have committed to a specific differentiation pathway. They are also called multipotent because they can produce only a limited number of cell types within their own“family of cell types.” For example, skin stem cells only produce the various types of skin cells. Thus, cell differentiation involves a succession of stages. Embryonic stem cells develop into adult stem cells and then into progenitor cells, which are somewhat more developed, and finally adult cells. Skin serves many functions. It maintains a healthy state for skin and other cells (called homeostasis), prevents infections and maintains temperature. Cells of the basal layer (basal cells) adhere to the basement membrane, which separates the dermis from the underlying dermis. Basal cells

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form a single layer of proliferative cells. Fewer than 1% of the basal cells are epidermal stem cells.1 These stem cells must guarantee life-long tissue integrity by replenishing the layers of skin cells that undergo a program of terminal differentiation when they move outward and eventually shed from the surface of the epidermis.2 Moreover, they are pivotal for an appropri-

Skin cells are exposed to the environment, wear out and must be replaced. Skin stem cells renew our skin and repair wounds. ate response to injury as they provide fresh proliferating and migrating cells. Because skin cells are exposed to the environment, they wear out and must be replaced. As the outer layer of skin dies and is sloughed off, adult skin stem cells are dividing in the deeper skin layers to form new skin cells that move up to the surface to replace the lost cells. In this way, happi.com

skin stem cells renew our skin and repair wounds.3,4

Experimental Design Primary epidermal stem and progenitor cells were isolated from foreskin, a common source of skin cells for research, and incubated in medium that maintains progenitor cells in-vitro. They were cultivated with the test compounds for three days. Then, the cells were washed and exposed to a broad-spectrum UV lamp (simulating sunlight), and examined for the various characteristics of stem cells. For example, cell proliferation was monitored without exposure to UV light by counting cell doublings over time. Colony forming efficiency was determined by seeding cells at a low density (200–1000 cells per dish) and counting the colonies 14 days later. We also tested the ability to form a 3D skin or epidermis in-vitro. Six products were screened. Three were uncharacterized compounds, and one was a control. Two were well-established Rahn cosmetic actives. Active 1 (INCI: Octyldodecanol, echium plantagineum seed oil, cardiospermum halicacabum flower/ leaf/vine extract, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil unsaponifiables) is an optimized system for physical and biochemical protection and care of sensitive skin types. It effectively inhibits inflammation. Active 1 functions on three levels. Cardiospermum halicacabum is effective against itchy and January 2011

Protecting Stem Cells

allergic inflammation of the skin. Stearidonic acids, derived from echium oil, inhibit inflammation and protect and strengthen the barrier of the skin. Unsaponifiable sunflower oil has a soothing and relipidation effect. Active 1 was tested at a sub-toxic concentration of 0.000005%. Active 2 (INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, ethyl ferulate, polyglyceryl-5 trioleate, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, water, disodium uridine phosphate) protects cells and DNA. Its active ingredients were specially developed to treat UV-stressed skin. Carnosolic acid and ethyl ferulate neutralize radicals that damage cells and effectively prevent UV damage. Uridine monophosphate, used in DNA synthesis, supports DNA repair. Active 2 was tested at the sub-toxic concentration 0.00004%. Importantly, the test substances were present only before and not during or after UV exposure. This aspect of our study avoided experimental artifacts that might jeopardize the results. In our tests, removing the test substances before exposure eliminated any concerns that the substances themselves might have quenched the UV light, an action that would have made our results uninterpretable.

Results and Discussion Active 1 and Active 2 protected the stem cell potential/function of skin stem- and progenitor cells. Notably, Active 1 enhanced stem-cell potential. No other compound did. Cell proliferation: Stem cells are important for skin cell replacement and wound repair, but they are double-edged swords. With their long lifespans, adult skin stem cells are the one kind of cell that can accumulate enough mutations to potentially cause skin cancer.6 Cancers are formed by the uncontrolled proliferation of relatively undifferentiated cells. Because of this, stem-cell proliferation is tightly regulated and well balanced in-vivo, and cosmetics must not induce unregulated stem-cell proliferation. The proliferation rates of skin stem cells treated with Active 1 and Active 2 were similar to the normal January 2011

Stem Cell Proliferation

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ACTIVE 2 ACTIVE 1 No Compound

Population doublings (cumulative)

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Weeks Figure 1: Active 1, Active 2 and untreated stem cells show comparable cell proliferation. Skin stem- and progenitor cells were counted weekly. The number of cumulative population doublings is shown.

levels of untreated cells (Fig. 1). So the two active ingredients do not seem to cause abnormal cell proliferation. Colony-forming efficiency: An effective cosmetic active ingredient should protect stem-cell function or potential. In our testing, we wanted to determine if the stem cells could still form new colonies to evalu-

ate the preservation of stem-cell potential after UV exposure. Differentiated adult skin cells die in culture, so colony-forming efficiency is a measure of the proportion of undifferentiated cells. After the UV treatment, we plated the cells and allowed them to grow for a defined period. Then we counted the colonies and calculated the effect of the

Figure 2: Pre-treatment with Active 1 stimulates colony forming efficiency by up to 300% compared to the untreated control. Pre-treatment with an inappropriate compound (Negative Control) had detrimental effects – CFE was totally lost. For each experiment, 200 cells were seeded.

Stem Cell Protection

CFE upon UV exposure relative to unexposed ctrl (%)

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• Protecting Stem Cells

pre-treatment. We found that Active 1 protected colony-forming efficiency. Untreated cells had lower colony forming efficiency. Pre-treatment with Active 1 even increased colony numbers and colony size, actually pointing to an enhancement of the stemcell potential. Upon UV stress, colony-forming efficiency was stimulated by up to 300% when cells were pre-treated with Active 1. Remarkably, treatment with another compound led to total loss of colony forming efficiency (Fig. 2). In the CFE assay, pretreatment with Active 2 did not bring an additional value. 3D Epidermis In-Vitro: Healthy and young-appearing skin has a complex 3D structure. Skin stem cells are a major resource for tissue repair, regeneration and rejuvenation and have the potential to fully restore the skin or epidermis. The formation of a structured epidermis in-vitro is a complex process. Thus, it is a sensitive test for stem cell damage. After exposure to UV stress, cells were allowed to grow to confluence. The cultures were then brought to the air-liquid interface (lifted) so that 3D growth could begin. Histological tests were performed to determine the effects. Active 1 and Active 2 protected the ability of stem cells to restore a structured epidermis after UV stress. This potential was markedly lower

Active 2 is an excellent anti-aging ingredient that protects DNA and stem cells. in untreated control cells (Fig. 3). Skin stem cells are critical for preventing skin aging. They are involved in tissue repair, regeneration and rejuvenation. Protecting these valuable cells is important for maintain youthful looking skin, and the active ingredients of a cosmetic product should help to protect skin stem cells from loss or damage. The treatment with Active 1 leads to a remarkable strengthening of skin stem cells: upon UV-irradiation the colony forming efficiency was even enhanced—as compared to untreated control cells— pointing to an increased number of undifferentiated and functional stem and progenitor cells. Furthermore, the ability to restore a structured 3D epidermis after exposure to UV light was maintained. Active 1 provides resistance to the key

cells of skin homeostasis and thus counteracts the appearance of irritated and stressed skin. Active 2 protects epidermal stem and progenitor cells against sunlight. Moreover, it maintains their ability to restore a structured 3D epidermis upon UV stress and thus protects the function of epidermal stem cells. Active 2 is therefore an excellent anti-aging ingredient that protects DNA and stem cells and should be part of any modern anti-aging product. • References: 1. Fuchs, E. and Nowak, J. A., Cold Spring Harb Symp Quant Biol 73, 333 (2008). 2. Blanpain, C. and Fuchs, E., Annu Rev Cell Dev Biol 22, 339 (2006). 3. Kaur, P., J Invest Dermatol 126 (7), 1450 (2006). 4. Watt, F. M. and Jensen, K. B., EMBO Mol Med 1 (5), 260 (2009). 5. Blanpain, C. and Fuchs, E., Nat Rev Mol Cell Biol 10 (3), 207 (2009). 6. Drummond-Barbosa, D., Genetics 180 (4), 1787 (2008)

About the Author Stefan Baenziger Ph.D. is manager of development of cosmetic actives for Rahn AG. More info: Rahn AG, Dörflistr. 120, 8050 Zurich, Switzerland. Tel: +41 44 315 42 00. Fax: +41 44 315 42 45. E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.rahn-group.com

Figure 3: Active 1 and Active 2 protect stem cells from UV stress: the stem cell’s ability to restore a three-dimensional epidermis upon UV stress is maintained. Experiments were performed in triplicates. One exemplary picture 18 days after UV exposure is presented.

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progressive perfumery

www.cplaromas.com

You’ve Come a Long Way, Baby! Fragrances found in today’s household cleaning products are much more hip—and with good reason: scent can play a critical role in spurring consumers’ interest and keeping them loyal to your brand. Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

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millennium, could one ever have imagined that today’s homeowners would be washing their dishes in grapefruit, doing laundry in marshmallow or disinfecting the bathroom in early morning breeze? Even in markets where price and performance are everything—including the household cleaning products sector—fragrance matters. “While the functionality of the product is a must for consumers, how it makes them feel is a close second. Knowing that a chore within the home has to be done, fragrance offers a sense of pleasantness while the task is being done,” said Joseph Lattarulo, senior vice president sales and marketing, Robertet Fragrances. “Unlike ever before we are seeing complex and sophisticated creations enter into air care, laundry and even surface and floor cleaners.” In fact, an intriguing scent can seal the deal, say fragrance experts. “Choosing the right fragrance for a household product plays a critical role in the consumer’s purchasing decision. Fragrance keeps the consumer interested in a brand and it can bring new users to a ACK IN THE LAST

January 2011

brand,” noted Laura Kelso, fragrance program leader, Henkel Consumer Goods Inc. Michelle Harper, director of fragrance evaluation at Arylessence, also pointed to the role fragrance plays in enhancing a company’s presence. “Fragrance selection is more important now than ever before. That’s how products distinguish themselves in the marketplace,” she said.

Not Your Mother’s Citrus Whether it is a bathroom cleaner or all-purpose wipe, household scents in use today are generations removed from basic pine and citruses that once peppered the household care aisles in the local supermarket. Not that citrus is out. In fact, according to Method, it’s in—evidenced by Clementine, one its newest scents. Clementine was rolled out in 2010 in the company’s dish soap pump bottle and it should be making its way into other products this year, the company said. “When we find a signature fragrance, we like to apply it across a variety of product forms, as it makes sense. Look for Clementine in other product forms in happi.com

2011,”said Suzanne McCormick, Method’s senior director of fragrance. Many in the industry point to Method as a driving force behind the sea change in how consumers think about fragrance in their household cleaning products. And that fact that hasn’t gone unnoticed in San Francisco. “Fragrance in household cleaning products has become increasingly important in recent years. Method has played an important role in raising the bar in the cleaning category by bringing unexpected and interesting fragrances,”McCormick said. Method’s fragrance catalog includes unique scents such as waterfall and ginger yuzu, as well as seasonal varieties like holly berry and task-specific offerings including basil, which is designed to ward off kitchen smells. The company has taken an upscale approach to rather mundane products and tasks, and other companies are following suit. Even venerable Pine-Sol, which was built around the deodorizing properties of pine back in the 1920s, offers scented versions of its popular multi-purpose cleaner. Clorox is reportedly tweaking the Pine-Sol happi • 73

• Household Fragrances

hold product. But, fragrance is cerfragrance collection, updating the tainly more significant now than in lavendar and lemon variants, and the past,” she said. “With more working on new scents expected choices and more complex out this spring. fragrances, the consumer “When it comes to prodhas become much more uct perception, we’ve seen a educated about scents and real evolution in the houseodors and has come to exhold marketplace. Consumers pect ones that are multiare more sophisticated, and faceted.” therefore retailers are focusing And maybe even offon giving a ‘masstige’ apbeat. Take Rockin Green’s proach to household proddetergents, which are made ucts,” said Cecilia Vetralla, specifically for cloth diapers. marketing manager with CPL They come in seven differAromas, Inc., Somerset, NJ. ent scents from Smashing Fragrances for household Watermelons and Rage cleaning products are influAgainst the Raspberry to enced by a wide range of inBare Naked Babies (undustries from food to toiletries scented) and new Mighty to perfumery. While overall Mighty Marshmallow. trends speak to fragrances Understanding what that are fresh and clean, consumers want when it today’s scents are also more comes to fragrance is a critauthentic and natural. There’s ical step in the process. been a steady shift away from “End users have more masking, medicinal and artificial scents, according to indus- Venerable Pine-Sol comes discerning purchasing habits today,”said Frank Mara, sentry executives. in scented varieties. ior vice president, Berje Inc., “The days of designing cleaning products around medicinal notes Bloomfield, NJ. “This is key to the success like pine, or single olfactive theme citrus of many brands; their ability to keep up notes are over,”noted Jack Corley, executive with well informed households driven by vice president at Trilogy Fragrances, which today’s information gathering technology.” Castroville, TX-based Rockin’ Green was recently acquired by TPR Holdings, takes this to heart. The company has turned LLC. Household product makers say con- to its customers’ noses for inspiration. “We wanted to come up with scents sumers are looking first and foremost for soothing and pleasant notes, “but like the that were fun and non-traditional,” said complexity and balance of different fra- founder Kim Webb. “We relied heavily on grances accords they find so often in their customer feedback, and let them pick the body care products,”said Corley. Trilogy, for scents that they liked best and then we example, recently worked with a Canadian took it from there.” According to Webb, customers “wanted customer to expand its lavender vanilla theme from body care to a new household something on the softer side, that had a little more depth. So Mighty Mighty Marshcleaning product range. mallow was born.” Henkel is listening to consumers, too. A Changing Role “Consumers’ expectation of fraJodi Wilson, senior perfumer with Lucta USA, noted the changing role of fragrance grance/freshness longevity has expanded. For example, they expect their clothes to in today’s competitive market. “Fragrance has always been an integral not only smell ‘just-out-of-the-dryer’ fresh and critical part in the selection of a house- on laundry day, but also days or even weeks 74 • happi

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afterwards when wearing garments or using towels and linens,” said Kelso. “Enhanced fragrance performance through technology is an emerging market focus,”agreed Harper.“Consider new product claims which promote ‘renewing freshness’ or ‘reawakened freshness on the move,’ signaling efficacy and superior performance along with a superior fragrance experience—truly a value-added benefit, as value is a key purchasing driver.”

The Smell of Green Another driver is the eco-movement, and this trend is manifesting itself in several ways when it comes to fragrances for household products. For starters, consumers are looking for eco-friendly products as well as products that have more natural smelling aromas. Household product companies, therefore, seek greener ways to scent their products as they work to achieve high-profile eco designations or look to go more natural. “A considerable segment of consumers are looking for eco-friendly or natural smelling aromas. These fragrance types are also driving new product launches. From manufacturers, we are seeing an increase in requests for fragrances that meet various certification requirements, such as DfE-, Green Seal- or EPA-registered,” said Harper. At that level, CPGs are setting the bar higher when it comes to fragrancing their products. Lucta, for example, worked with a startup green firm to develop dishwashing liquids, fabric softeners, laundry detergent and all-purpose cleaners that are DfE-approved “and quite complex and sophisticated,” according to Wilson. Industry insiders agree that the green movement will only get stronger, and will continue to shape fragrance selection in the future. “The natural, sustainable, environment safe, green, clean, organic movements are bound to grow stronger,” said Odila Zocca, vice president technical, chief perfumer at Premier Specialties, Inc., Middlesex, NJ. Premier Specialties, with the addition of Premier Honduras, is focusing on a susJanuary 2011

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• Household Fragrances

“Consumers in general are more will find increasing appeal in the home and educated and ‘earth’ conscious, de- household category. Modern rose accords, manding for more environmen- gourmand chocolate and aromatic coffee tally friendly products. They are are notes to watch for as well.” reading labels and following the bandwagon of the big multina- A Global View tionals like P&G and Clorox that Perfumers are taking a global view, looking are making efforts to market to emerging markets for new ideas. mainstream products avoiding the “There is a wealth of interesting inuse of environmentally harmful gredients and materials that we’ve just chemicals,” said Irina Rich, vice started to research and explore. With president, fragrance evaluation at strong cultural qualities from these Premier Specialties, Inc. emerging markets, it will be a great source The introduction of new natural of inspiration for future fragrance develcleaning products based on natu- opment,” said Chris Casale, creative perrally derived alkyl polyglucoside, for fumer with CPL Aromas. example, increased demand for nat“Apart from the traditional trickle ural fragrances. down, food can be one of the most influ“It makes little sense to formu- encing sectors of fragrances,” added late a green or natural household Lucta’s Wilson. “With changing democleaning product and then add a graphics in the U.S., this can lead to synthetic fragrance based on changes that will influence the fragrances petrochemicals,” said Corley of for household products. Perhaps U.S. fragrances will be further influenced by In addition to the unscented Bare Naked Babies version, Rockin’ Trilogy, which last year developed CleanScents, a new line of tastes that are more Hispanic or perhaps Green detergent comes in Smashing Watermelons, Rage 100% natural fragrances. The more Asian. Perhaps European countries Against the Raspberry, Lavender Mint Revival and Mighty line “works hand in glove with will be more influenced by more tradiMighty Marshmallow scents. these new natural household tional Middle Eastern tastes.” Fragrance professiontainability program and has recently imple- cleaning products,” als at CPG firms and mented a strategic partnership in he said. Looking ahead, suppliers alike are Nicaragua where it is growing and manuworking on new techfacturing sustainable certified materials in- fragrances used in household care will nologies to deliver digenous to Central and South America. enhanced fragrance “We are bringing sustainable oils and continue to evolve, profiles, be they ecowaxes and making them available to our taking cues from friendly, more natucustomers as ingredients for finished prod- fine fragrance, food, ral smelling or ucts and making these ingredients available personal care and longer lasting scents. to our creative team to be used in fra- elsewhere—and gain And they like how grances,” said Roger Rich, president, Pre- complexity and sophistication along today’s consumers are mier Specialties, Inc. willing to smell “outTransparency is another growing issue the way. “Expect to see side the box,” so to in the household products marketplace, and speak, when it comes fragrance is part of the discussion too. In late complex green acto household care. November, SC Johnson announced that it cords along with a “I am thrilled at would voluntarily disclose, by 2012, the in- growing influence of consumer acceptance gredients it uses in fragrances and dyes as oriental and wood of new scent profiles,” well as provide expanded information on notes, resulting from said Kelso of Henkel. preservatives in its products. The goal of the fine fragrance trends,” program, which is being touted in a new na- said Harper. “Woody Henkel says Spring Oasis, which has “I think that over time, tional advertising campaign, is to help con- notes like vetiver, cedar- fresh, crisp, clean and airy notes, is the they in fact, have come sumers make informed choices about the wood and patchouli or most popular scent direction in the Purex to look forward to new fresh, green galbanum Complete 3-in-1 Laundry Detergent line. directions.” • products they use in their homes. 76 • happi

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January 2011

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Coming Clean After surviving the recession, the laundry detergent category has been hurt by price wars and a dearth of innovation. But a few observers insist there are signs that things are beginning to improve. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

T

HE GREAT RECESSION pounded most consumer packaged goods manufacturers, including major laundry detergent makers in developed markets. Consumers in Western Europe and the U.S. either shifted to lower-tier brands or private label offerings, or decided that maybe those dirty clothes weren’t so dirty after all. Couple all that with a price war that has been raging for months in the U.S., and it’s no wonder why the industry has suffered through a dry spell in terms of market growth and product innovation. In fact, one industry veteran who’s followed the laundry detergent business for more than two decades called Q3 2010 one of the worst ever for many CPG companies, pointing out that there’s been a growing disconnect between the haves and the have-nots. Luxury goods firms have bounced back in recent quarters, with Estée Lauder, L’Oréal and LVMH all posting favorable results, while disappointing results came in from the likes of Clorox, Colgate and Johnson & Johnson. Last year, Romesh Wadhwani, chairman, SymphonyIRI Group, soberly announced that we are in an “Age of Thrift and Affordability” brought about by a major shift in consumer buying patterns. More recently, a study by Booz & Company noted that consumer frugality persists in the post-recession U.S. economy. Consumers are said to be economizing broadly, deferring spending on discretionary items and trading down on essentials. More specifically, on household products, 28% of consumers reduced spending this year, compared to 21% in 2009. “Consumers continue to pay down

January 2011

debt and build up their savings. There is little reason to believe that consumers will give up their frugal behaviors in the short term,” said Marcelo Tau, principal, Booz & Company. “Consumers remain cautious, especially following their disappointment with the slow pace of improvement over the past year.” In the past, when things got difficult, a cry went up from marketers and analysts for more innovation. But after being battered by the downturn for more than two years, some fear that consumers may not be willing to pay for bells and whistles in their detergents. “There are really high levels of promotion; 35% of the category is now sold on promotion,”explained one observer.“Everybody talks about innovation, but at the same time, everyone is afraid of costs going up and not getting consumers to pay for it.”

Some statistics verify those fears. When it comes to laundry detergent, more consumers have become comfortable with private label products—even though private label still accounts for less than 10% of sales in the liquid laundry segment (see chart on p. 80). According to an August survey by Epsilon Targeting, more consumers switched to private labels in all product categories during the first six months of 2010. Epsilon found that 75% of respondents switched to store branded household products, with the highest number buying paper towels (49%), followed by bathroom tissue (43%), storage bags (42%) and laundry detergent (39%). Eric Schwartz, vice president-U.S. laundry care marketing, The Dial Corporation, a Henkel Company, agreed that com-

New Purex Complete Crystals Softener is 92% natural, according to Henkel.

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happi • 79

• Detergent Market

petition in the laundry aisle has intensified during the past year. Specifically, beginning in the second quarter of 2010, more marketers had to contend with increased promotions such as buy-one-get-one free and price rollbacks. “What’s going on in our category is not due to the recession. There was high-single digit growth before Q2. It’s a new phenomenon that can’t be stopped until we stop it,” he told HAPPI. “The way out is through innovation.”

Good News The good news for national brand manufacturers is that some observers insist that the worst as over, as private label gains slip, price erosion subsides and consumer confidence returns. Indeed, as HAPPI went to press, the U.S. stock market was surging, holiday sales were beating estimates, and employment numbers were the best that they’ve been in years. Maybe, just maybe, that will signal the beginning of a return to normal.

2010, U.S. sales of laundry detergent in “We are beginning food, drug and mass merchandisers to see a turnaround,” (excluding Walmart) fell 3.14% to observed Ian Bell, $3.6 billion. head of home care, “The category did not expetissue and hygiene rience deep discounting in research at Eu2009, however, there has romonitor Internabeen some discounting in tional. “Unit prices the past year,” observed are stabilizing and Nancy Mills, industry manare beginning to ager, consumer products at go up.” Kline Group, the research According to firm based in Fairfield, NJ. Bell, the recession For example, she noted came on fast and that P&G reduced the price furious and to comof its laundry detergents by pete in these turbuapproximately 4.5% during lent times, marketers 2010 and Tide (100 oz.) saw had a knee-jerk reaction and moved Longtime market leader Tide is feeling a price cut at Walmart for several weeks. Meanwhile, to reduce prices to the heat from competitors. P&G’s Cheer got a permamaintain long-term nent price cut and was repositioned as a share. Recent data from SymphonyIRI, how- value brand. The company’s Era brand also ever, is mixed. For the year ended Nov. 1, had a permanent price reduction, she said.

Tide Still Leads in Liquids There’s plenty of talk about how good old Tide may have lost its edge, but the variant still commands a 41% dollar share of the liquid laundry category, according to SymphonyIRI Group. Here are the top 10 products and category totals. Sales are for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 31, 2010 in supermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers (excluding Walmart).

$ Sales

% Change

Unit Sales

% Change

Avg. Price/ Per Unit

Change

1,236,599,000

-2.16

118,537,100

0.70

10.43

-0.30

All

243,237,800

4.76

38,031,210

19.80

6.40

-0.92

Arm & Hammer

219,535,300

4.23

44,923,900

-1.01

4.89

0.25

Gain

216,265,200

8.91

24,095,990

6.17

8.98

0.23

Purex

147,858,800

-9.99

37,471,400

-5.46

3.95

-0.20

Private Label

138,059,100

-1.98

30,463,470

-8.04

4.53

0.28

Xtra

105,187,000

-19.57

35,188,680

-18.73

2.99

-0.03

Cheer Brightclean

78,293,510

41.42

8,236,462

44.34

9.51

-0.20

Wisk

63,232,830

2.12

11,488,590

5.57

5.50

-0.19

Sun Burst

57,604,160

-6.11

17,440,220

-13.22

3.30

0.25

3,013,938,000

-2.74

457,197,300

-2.91

6.59

0.01

Tide

Totals 80 • happi

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January 2011

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• Detergent Market

It’s Starting to Add Up for Additives Product forms other than liquids and powders have been a growth area for the laundry category. Here are the top 10 products and category totals. Sales are for the 52-weeks ended Oct. 31, 2010 in supermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers (excluding Walmart), according to SymphonyIRI.

$ Sales

% Change

Unit Sales

% Change

Avg. Price/ Per Unit

Change

Purex Complete 3-in-1

31,514,470

51.89

5,474,280

55.62

5.76

-0.14

Dryel

11,769,080

-8.84

1,276,347

-2.27

9.22

-0.66

Dry Cleaners Secret

4,404,551

-2.86

472,489

-2.10

9.32

-0.07

Zote

1,943,604

-3.14

2,529,757

-4.81

0.77

0.01

Mister Steamy

1,795,192

—

124,378

—

14.43

—

Fels Naptha

1,706,665

16.67

1,372,441

14.84

1.24

0.02

Colgate Octagon

585,070

1.00

798,386

-0.87

0.73

0.01

OneCare Bounce

410,579

34.76

52,570

55.03

7.81

-1.17

Lirio

362,189

-18.39

385,468

-19.14

0.94

0.01

Woolite Dry Cleaners Secret

189,935

-34.95

66,740

-45.85

2.85

0.48

54,727,340

26.21

12,608,990

17.77

4.34

0.29

Totals

Only a couple of years ago, no one questioned P&G’s dominance in the U.S. laundry sector—after all, every household in America, it seemed, relied on Tide to get out stains. But, some observers suggest that the high-powered cleaning Tide promises no longer fits in with today’s reality. Think about it, just how dirty do Americans, not to mention Western Europeans and Japanese, get over the course of a day? Most white-collar workers are glued to their computer screens from 9 to 5—that’s not exactly working in the fields or in factories like their parents and grandparents did. And what about kids? Have you driven down a suburban street in Anytown, U.S.A. lately? It’s a desolate place, as most children can be found transfixed on a video game screen in the family room or basement. “There’s been a decline in usage as more people shift to white collar jobs,” noted one observer. “In the blue collar world, there’s been a shift to lower tier brands and private label products.” 82 • happi

Some Bright Spots It’s not all bad news in the laundry sector, however. Sales of Purex Complete 3-in-1 posted sales in excess of $31 million for the 52 weeks ended Oct. 31, 2010, according to SymphonyIRI data, which puts that product in an “other” category that’s separate from liquids and powders. Purex Complete 3-in-1 leads the way in this “other” category, which had total sales of $54.7 million, an increase of more than 26%. Other brands in this segment that turned in strong results include Fels Naptha (+16.67%) and OneCare Bounce (+34.76%). According to Henkel, when all the retail outlet numbers are in, sales of Purex Complete 3-in-1 sales exceed $60 million for the most recent 52-week period. “Combination products are doing better than the overall segment,” noted one observer.“P&G picked up some share with Tide with Febreeze, too.” P&G may have added a point or two with combination products, but the biggest happi.com

winner has been Henkel with its Purex Complete 3-in-1, which combines detergent, anti-static agent and fabric softener in a convenient sheet. After extensive consumer research, Henkel learned that most consumers consider doing the laundry a thankless task and would do anything to reduce their time spent completing the chore. According to Henkel statistics, the company was the No. 3 player in the $52 billion global laundry care category in 2009.

Global Laundry Share 2009 Company P&G Unilever Henkel Reckitt Benckiser Colgate-Palmolive Church & Dwight Sun Products

%Share 34 18 11 5 5 2 2 Source: Henkel

“New entries such as Tide Total Care January 2011

• Detergent Market

and Purex Complete contribute to growth as many consumers are still willing to pay a higher price for innovation,” noted Mills. The Kline executive noted that while some may say that the category lacks innovation, there have been several launches that have helped to sustain a large part of the category’s growth during the past several years. Mills pointed out that innovation in this category is costly and the majority of these introductions have come from the major marketers with large R&D budgets. For example, P&G spent a tremendous amount of money to develop Tide Total Care, which surpassed sales of more than $100 million in its first full year. “Henkel’s Purex Complete registered more than $50 million in less than a year,” she said.“Going back just a few years, Tide Coldwater and All Small & Mighty were highly successful launches that drove similar intros from competitors.” Still, innovation does not necessarily result in growth. “Despite the highly successful launch of the premium-priced Tide Total Care, the brand’s overall sales declined,” said Mills. “The majority of growth in the category over the past couple of years has come from mid- to lower-tier brands, she explained. While the recession has played a role in their growth, many consumers are also satisfied with product efficacy. Premium brands will be challenged to recapture former users and convince new buyers that there’s value in the higher-priced offering.” In an effort to boost its share of the U.S. laundry category, Sun Products relaunched Wisk, which now features something called Stain Spectrum Technology. The formula promises to get out a wide range of stains including proteins, carbohydrates, oils and particulates, bio and synthetic. In addition to returning to its stain-fighting focus with a new formula, Wisk’s new red bottle is a return to its “ring-around-the-collar” roots from when the product was first launched in 1956. “Wisk had lost its brand voice over the years,” said John Nunziato, creative director, Little Big Brands, the agency behind the redesign. “The brand is now a standout in 84 • happi

Sun Products revamped Wisk.

the category—screaming premium and performance while remaining relevant and approachable to the consumer.” According to Nunziato, the design was distilled down and each element was addressed for relevancy, current equity and impact. The result is a brand with renewed depth, dimension and energy. The bottle and label are rich reds and the label uses several reds to integrate seamlessly into the structure. The logo was redrawn and maximized in perspective form. The new white logo jumps off shelf, he said. The addition of reflective foil adds to the premium appearance and strengthens cleaning cues. Smart, modern typography rounds out the label. Lastly, the design was stripped of unnecessary copy, drop shadows, inlines, and fluorescent colors, which made the previous design feel heavy and dated, according to Nunziato.

Disruptive Technology? Bottle designs are nice, but it’s what’s inside that counts most once the consumer makes a purchasing decision. This month, Henkel will try to build on the momentum it generated with Purex Complete 3-in-1 with the launch of Purex Complete Crystals Softener, which is billed as 92% natural. According to Henkel, the product’s unique crystal form works differently than traditional oil-based softeners that coat fabrics with oily residue. Purex Complete happi.com

Crystals Softener is said to be easier to use than traditional softeners because it is added directly to the laundry load at the beginning of every wash cycle. Moreover, the softener promises to preserve flame retardant benefits of baby’s and children’s clothes, retain the wicking ability of athletic wear, maintain a towel’s built-in ability to absorb water and will keep white clothes from yellowing and graying. The launch is another sign that Henkel is ready to take on Tier 1 brands in the U.S. “The turnaround will be based on innovation and marketers who are recommitted to the high road of innovation and differentiation,” explained Schwartz.“We are committed to the high road. It’s the primary way that we want to compete to build share.” Schwartz called Purex 3-in-1 sheets “disruptive”technology, and he is confident that the same is true of the new softener. “In the U.S., it is inconvenient to use fabric softener,” he explained. Despite the prevalence of new washing machines that feature built-in fabric softener dispensers, most people still play a waiting game. “Moms are tethered to the machine waiting for the rinse cycle. That’s how liquids work,” he insisted. Purex Complete Crystals Softener is available in three fragrances—Fresh Spring Waters, Lavender Blossom and Tropical Splash—and retails for $3.99-5.99. To get the word out about the benefits of the new fabric softener, Henkel will redeploy the on-shelf LCD communication system in select retail locations. At the least, the novel, on-shelf education tool will have as high a return-on-investment as traditional television spend, and is much more effective than in-store demonstrations, according to Schwartz. Innovation is the lifeblood of so many industries, but lately, the laundry detergent market has seemed to hit a dry spell.

Sustainable Innovation Although consumer sentiment for green fell as the economy worsened, nearly everyone agrees that environmentally friendly initiatives are here to stay. Last fall, January 2011

Detergent Market

•

Liquid Fabric Softener Sales Remain Soft P&G dominates the category, but sales in the liquid concentrate fabric softener category slipped less than 1% last year, according to SymphonyIRI Group. Here are the top 10 products and category totals. Sales are for the 52 weeks ended Nov. 28, 2010 in supermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers (excluding Walmart).

$ Sales

% Change

Unit Sales

% Change

Avg. Price/ Per Unit

Change

Downy

217,432,300

1.24

37,321,040

-1.39

5.83

0.15

Suavitel

60,231,590

-6.90

16,664,590

-6.16

3.61

-0.03

Downy Simple Pleasures

45,190,840

-10.13

7,338,349

-9.52

6.16

-0.04

Snuggle

32,836,390

8.77

8,131,016

1.61

4.04

0.27

Private Label

31,311,450

-10.54

9,396,881

-10.11

3.33

-0.02

Gain

27,537,190

39.41

5,553,738

32.50

4.96

0.25

Bounce

23,508,150

249.54

4,346,413

224.82

5.41

0.38

Snuggle Exhilarations

19,369,040

18.72

4,830,690

23.50

4.01

-0.16

Downy Free and Sensitive

16,793,220

-14.64

2,988,952

-14.53

5.62

-0.01

Downy with Febreze

12,291,670

-6.45

2,105,717

-5.92

5.84

-0.03

Totals

552,465,300

-0.82

121,077,300

-2.15

4.56

0.06

P&G announced wide-ranging sustainability goals (see HAPPI, November, p. 79), which included replacing 25% of petroleumbased material with sustainably sourced renewable materials by 2020. More recently, in November, Seventh Generation, a Burlington, VT-based manufacturer of non-toxic household and personal care products, debuted innovative new packaging featuring 96% post-consumer recycled (PCR) content. Developed by Seventh Generation in collaboration with its packaging partner, Consolidated Container Company, the package is made of resin derived from recycled milk jugs and other plastic bottles and represents a quantum leap over the 25% recycled content often found in plastic packaging. The new packaging, featured in the brand’s dish liquid and fabric softener, joins other high-PCR content bottles in Seventh Generation’s roster of products, including its 80% PCR 150oz. concentrated laundry liquid container. January 2011

Seventh Generation had one of its best years ever in 2009, insisted John Murphy, vice president of sales, and he suspects more gains to come as consumer interest in green solutions continues to grow. Also this month, Henkel will roll out

Enzyme-based Purex Complete with Zout is a detergent and pretreater.

happi.com

Purex with Zout, which is said to combine the proven performance of Purex detergent with the triple-enzyme, stain-fighting power of Zout stain remover. In fact, it is the first enzymatic detergent introduced in the U.S. by Henkel. Purex with Zout can be used as both a pre-treater and a detergent. It is available in Fresh Morning Burst and Free & Clear, a hypoallergenic formula. Available nationwide by the end of March, Purex with Zout’s retail prices will range from $3.49 to $7.99 depending on size and retailer. The introduction underscores Henkel’s commitment to bringing innovation back to the laundry detergent aisle, according to Schwartz. “Just because the consumer is focused on value, price alone isn’t the answer,” he insisted.“It’s more value.” If more marketers can pull themselves out of a vicious promotion cycle, the laundry detergent segment should start growing again. • happi • 85

Come Together At the annual meeting of the Consumer Specialty Products Association, attendees learn why the association is more than the sum of its parts. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

C

SPECIALTY Products Association (CSPA) members make beautiful music when they work together. At the 2010 annual meeting, CSPA hammered home the importance of teamwork and how, by working together, association members have enacted real change for the industry. The annual meeting was held Dec. 5-9, 2010 in Fort Lauderdale, FL. Outgoing chairman Adam Selisker of CRC Industries opened the meeting by telling the audience that the theme of the event is“The Whole Is Greater than the Sum of Its Parts.” “We are respected by friend and foe alike; our strength is in our members who donate their time to benefit the industry,” he noted.“Our strength is in our unity.” Of course, in order for any association to remain strong, its members must be willing to donate that time, and several of those volunteers were honored with CSPA Volunteer Award. The honorees include: • Aerosol Division: Paul Szczesny, S.C. Johnson; • Air Care Division: Heidi Fuentes, Reckitt Benckiser; • Antimicrobial Division: Diane Boesenberg, Reckitt Benckiser; • Cleaning Division: Mark Ventura, Church & Dwight; • Industrial & Automotive Division: Michelle Rudnick, CRC Industries; • Pesticide Division: Bill Metzger, United Industries; and ONSUMER

86 • happi

• Polishes & Floor Maintenance Division: Russ Craig, Omnova. Chris Cathcart, president of CSPA, picked up on Selisker’s comments, noting that disparate groups invite CSPA to the negotiation table because the association makes things happen. For example, on Jan. 1, 2010, CSPA and other industry organizations launched a voluntary consumer product ingredient communication initiative. Throughout the year, CSPA worked with the Sierra Club to enhance that initiative into a win-win program for industry and environmental groups. CSPA and the Sierra Club also found themselves in agreement

Symphony conductor Boris Brott

happi.com

on changes to the Environmental Protection Agency’s Design for the Environment (DfE) program, and the EPA ultimately picked up their proposals. During the year, CSPA spent much time educating the EPA’s Office of Pesticide Programs on a voluntary ingredient disclosure program. Ultimately, the EPA created a pilot program whereby manufacturers of antimicrobial pesticide products would further disclose ingredients based on the CSPA model. Cathcart asked, “Where is all this headed? Toward establishing a national policy on Right-to-Know, rather than a patchwork quilt (of regulations).” Also during the year, CSPA worked with a variety of organizations on efforts to modernize the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA). Cathcart noted that the Act must be modernized to address the science and technology that has evolved since it was passed in 1976. “It needs to be modernized—not scrapped,” he cautioned. But while CSPA is eager to sit down at the table with non-government organizations (NGOs) to discuss TSCA, the association remains committed to confidentiality, in order to protect its business. That can-do spirit has enabled CSPA to add 40 members during the economic downturn to bring total membership to more than 240, according to the association.

January 2011

CSPA Annual Meeting

•

Moving Parts Even as it reaches out to other associations and organizations, CSPA has a wide array of affiliates including Product Ingredient Review (PIR), Alliance for Consumer Education (ACE), Automotive Specialty Products Alliance (ASPA), Consumer Aerosol Products Council and Consumer Specialties Insurance Company (CAPCO). “We have a lot of moving parts,” Cathcart acknowledged, before noting that the PIR is gaining strength every year and created five new joint ventures in 2010. During the year, CAPCO took advantage of social media websites to get the word out about the benefits of aerosols. During the year, CAPCO sponsored a video contest on why it is okay to spray, and also participated in the National Science Teachers Association. Finally, ACE celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2010, by forming several partnerships with groups such as minor league baseball, Marvel Entertainment and Marriott International. (For a look at the press conference announcing the ACE-Marvel alliance, visit: www.happi.com.) While CSPA and its affiliates may make beautiful music together, it can’t compare to the many moving pieces that make up an orchestra. Symphony conductor Boris Brott’s lively presentation explained how strings, woodwinds, brass and percussion all come together night after night to unlock their creativity. In an entertaining presentation, Brott explained how the idiosyncrasies of each group can be put aside, at least for each performance, in order to work together. He called the brass section, the easy-going group that enjoys their job. “They are laid back because they know that they can drown everyone else out!” he joked. In contrast, the string section is often made up of former star performers who learned to put aside their soloist aspirations for the good of the group. The conductor’s job through all of this is to keep these groups on the same page, while inspiring them to do better. “Don’t fire them; inspire them,” Brott insisted. “We’re all busy, but it only takes a January 2011

Carlson Wins Allderdice Award David J. Carlson of McLaughlin Gormley King Company (right) is presented with the Charles E. Allderdice Jr. Memorial Award by chairman Adam Selisker of CRC Industries. The award is presented annually to the individual who has made an exceptional contribution to the consumer specialty products industry and CSPA. In presenting the award, CSPA chairman Adam Selisker noted that Carlson had worked hard to garner positive results for the pesticides industry.

few minutes to tell someone that they were fabulous.” Just as he inspires his charges, the conductor is supposed to breathe new life into old works. “I can’t change Beethoven’s notes, but I can make them more accessible,” Brott observed. Finally, Brott showed the audience how collaboration works by engaging CSPA members to play Beethoven’s Ode to Joy by striking simple, one-note instruments. The annual business meeting closed with the election of the 2011 board, which will be chaired by John Abplanalp of Precision.

Keeping Pathogens at Bay Whether it’s keeping a hospital room from being overrun by MRSA or a garment from being overwhelmed by malodor, member companies in the CSPA Antimicrobial Products Division offer a variety of methods to keep surfaces contaminant-free. Unhappi.com

fortunately, incorrect use of those products by hospital cleaning staff is often the cause of germs spreading, according to William A. Rutala of the University of North Carolina School of Medicine. Rutala noted that when terminal cleaning of a hospital room is completed, less than 40% of surfaces are actually clean. A poor cleaning job increases the risk of the next occupant of contracting pathogens such as Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), Vancomycin-Resistant Enterococcus (VRE) and C. difficile. To combat this inefficiency, Rutala described several new cleaning methods including ultraviolet light, hydrogen peroxide vapor and copper and silver compounds. UV light, specifically shortwave (254 nm) UVC light, is applied to a room using a fully-automated, self-calibrating and self-operating device. UVC is said to reduce 99.9% of vegetative bacteria within 15 minutes and happi • 87

• CSPA Annual Meeting

H2O2 have applications in select health care rooms and areas, the uses for copper and silver remain limited.

A Look at Fabric Care

Charles S. Ortmann of Diversified CPC International (right) receives the Chairman’s Award from CSPA chairman Adam Selisker of CRC Industries.

99.84% of C. difficile spores within 50 minutes. According to Rutala, the UVC method is effective and rapid and doesn’t require the HVAC system to be disabled or sealed. Unfortunately, patient and hospital personnel must leave the room and the technique cannot be done every day. Another cleaning method, vaporized hydrogen peroxide, delivered via microcon-

Upcoming Meetings The Consumer Specialty Products Association will hold its 2011 Mid-Year Meeting and Innovention on May 3-6 at the Marriott Hotel Downtown, Chicago. The Fall Board meeting will take place Oct. 5-6 at the Omni Shoreham Hotel, Washington, DC, and the 98th Annual Meeting will be held Dec. 4-8 at the Marriott Harbor Beach Resort and Spa, Fort Lauderdale, FL. More info: www.cspa.org

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densation or dry mist, has been shown to be effective in eradicating C. difficile from contaminated surfaces. However, the H2O2 method is time-consuming, taking 270 minutes, compared to just 67 minutes for bleach cleaning. “Still, vaporized hydrogen peroxide reduced contamination of multiple pathogens and studies have shown that there are benefits in controlling outbreaks and infections,” Rutala noted. Rutala explained that copper has antimicrobial activity and has been implemented in healthcare settings by applying the metal to toilet seats, brass handles and brass door handles where it was shown to reduce microorganisms. Similarly, there have been only a few studies utilizing disinfectants containing silver, but Rutala noted that one silver dihydrogen citrate formula has shown to be effective with broadspectrum activity. Meanwhile silver iodide has efficacy against VRE. Rutala concluded that while UV and happi.com

Roni Plectrazak-Weaver of Arch Chemicals presented different approaches to textile treatment. She noted that microbial growth could have detrimental effects on the fabric such as cross infection by pathogens in a medical environment, odor development or loss of performance properties. Microbes can thrive in today’s wash cycles because of lower wash temperatures and reduced use of chlorine bleach. That combination can lead to the formation of biofilm on fabric and machine surfaces, she explained. However, these problems can be eradicated with antimicrobials such as applying silver ZPT on fibers, treating fabrics with ingredients such as N-halamine, PHMB hypochloride, silane quats, silver, triclosan and ZPT. Garments can be treated with PHMB and laundry can be treated with hydrogen peroxide, PHMB, quats and sodium hypochlorite. Plectrazak-Weaver also reviewed the test methods used to ensure efficacy of the treatments and the claims that manufacturers can and cannot make regarding fiber, mill and laundry treatments.

Fragrance Notes The Air Care Division program focused on the science, emotion and legislation that are impacting the segment. CSPA’s Phil Klein opened the session with a look at the regulatory issues affecting the industry. He called 2010 a perfect storm of state, federal and EPA activity, with much of the focus on intellectual property. However, Klein assured the audience that the association is committed to its membership. “CSPA is going to protect the intellectual property (IP) of our members,” he insisted. “Yes, we have a great relationships with EPA and the environmental groups. We will find a balance on Right-to-Know (issues).” Together with the American Cleaning Institute, CSPA launched its voluntary ingredient disclosure program at the start of January 2011

CSPA Annual Meeting

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the 2010. Unfortunately, the launch was met with opposition by several non-government organizations, which insisted on “full disclosure” including trace levels of materials. Such demands, according to Klein, signal that the NGOs are less interested in transparency and more interested in suing member companies. Specifically, NGOs identified several areas that they could not agree with industry on including: • Fragrance, dyes and preservatives; • CBI protection; and • Excessive nomenclature. During the year, CSPA met with Republican members of Congress and insisted that members’ intellectual property deserves as much protection as that afforded to the Coca-Cola and Kentucky Fried Chicken formulas.

The State of the States At the state level, Klein noted that a bill sponsored by California Senator Joe Simitian was defeated, but in New York, the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) has unearthed a 1976 regulation that gives it the authority to demand cleaning product manufacturers disclose product ingredients. That regulation concerns Klein, who also pointed out that incoming New York Governor Andrew Cuomo has presidential aspirations and is unwilling to get into a fight with environmental groups over the DEC. As a result, “we want to be in front on this issue,” he told the audience. On the subject of Congressional Bills, Klein observed that the authors of the Household Product Labeling Act of 2009 (HR 3057) made a fatal mistake by including pesticides in its wording—a move that doomed the bill. In contrast, a similar bill (S. 1697) sponsored by Senator Al Franken (D-MN) did not include pesticides. In both instances, CSPA opposed the bills, insisting that they failed to strike a balance between transparency and the need to protect IP. In closing, Klein urged member companies to get on board with the Association’s ingredient dictionary as well as on Right-to-Know issues, warning, “we can’t January 2011

Incoming CSPA chairman John Abplanalp of Precision (left) presents a plaque to outgoing chairman Adam Selisker of CRC Industries in recognition of his efforts in 2010.

deal with this issue on a state by state level.”

IFRA Evolves Jennifer Abril of the International Fragrance Asssociation (IFRA) North America, detailed how the association has evolved from a patchwork of national groups, including the Fragrance Materials Association into a single IFRA group that includes four regional offices: North America, Latin America, Europe and Asia. The move gives IFRA greater coordination and strategic alignment, according to Abril. Moreover, the new alignment enables the groups to pool resources and learn from legislative battles that have already been fought in other regions. The alignment was launched in October and readers can learn more at the new website: www.ifrana.org. Abril also revisited several high-prohappi.com

file media events in 2010 that put fragrance in a bad light including pub- lications such as the Women’s Voices of the Earth’s “What’s that Smell?” In contrast, Abril noted that Wired will publish a positive article on fragrance in the near future. In 2011, IFRA is committed to safeguarding the fundamentals of the industry’s business models, including protecting fragrance formulas from Rightto-Know legislation, said Abril. The session’s final speaker, Madhuri Singal of the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), reviewed results of RIFM’s inhalation study. Interestingly, researchers found that respirable particle droplets (less than 10 microns in size) were highest 10 minutes after a spray. However, there were no changes in overall airway inflammation. •

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Good Chemistry The Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ annual meeting included sessions on hair styling, sun protection and genomics. Yash Kamath received the Maison G. deNavarre Medal, the Society’s highest honor. Tom Branna • Editorial Director and Navin Geria • Contributing Editor

A

FTER A LENGTHY recession marked by job cuts and reduced R&D budgets, the mood was definitely upbeat at last month’s annual meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC). The meeting was held in New York City, Dec. 9-10, and attracted nearly 1,200 industry executives—which represented an increase over 2009 attendance, according to the Society. Attendees heard presentations on a variety of subjects, including hair styling, sun protection and genomics. Yash Kamath received the SCC’s highest honor, the Maison G. deNavarre Medal, during the awards luncheon (see p. 93). The annual meeting got underway with opening remarks by chairman Robert Y. Lochhead of the University of Southern Mississippi. Randy Wickett of the University of Cincinnati succeeded Lochhead as SCC chairman. “We have great attendance,” observed Lochhead.“It shows that we are doing well even in recession.” The Dec. 9 morning session was devoted to sunscreen, and was moderated by Howard Epstein of EMD Chemicals. He noted that non-government organizations (NGOs) are raising questions about sunscreens that must be addressed. Johann Wiechers did just that with a presentation on the skin penetration of nanoparticles from sunscreen formulas. According to Wiechers, the number of sunscreen products containing nanoparticles

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Sun protection session speakers included (l-r): Johann Wiechers, David Schlossman and Philip W. Wertz.

has risen from 54 in 2005 to more than 1,000 in 2010. “There is no epidemiological evidence of risk,”he told the audience, and he urged the industry to inform the consumer and not hide from NGOs that disparage the science and the industry. According to Wiechers, nanoparticles do penetrate into the stratum corneum, but do not penetrate into the viable layers of the epidermis. Wiechers noted that when nanopartihappi.com

cle size is smaller than 10nm, the material can penetrate the SC. However, the industry uses particles ranging in size from 1060nm. In addition, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide often agglomerate to form larger particles. Moreover, these particles have an anionic coating that does not favor skin penetration. With this information in hand, cosmetic chemists should be confident about incorporating nanoparticles in their sunscreen formulas, he told the audience. January 2011

SCC Annual Meeting

is to validate specific expression of targeted genes, then a small-scale method such as RT-PCR may be the method of choice.

“The sun is shining on nanotechnology,” insisted Wiechers.“When you look at all the evidence, you cannot find a problem. But the internet is raising fears (among consumers).” To combat that fear, he urged the cosmetics industry to mount a counter offensive.

A Look at Hair

New Sunscreen Materials Another way to ensure proper UV protection is to incorporate composite materials into sunscreen formulas. David Schlossman of Kobo Products explained how a formula containing spherical polyamide 12 provided UV attenuation that is comparable to that of nanomaterials. Specifically, combining the composite polyamide (PA-12) titanium dioxide powder at 20% with organic sunscreens resulted in an in-vivo PA score greater than 20. In addition, test subjects agreed that the composite formula had a better skin feel than traditional sunscreen formulas. Other composite materials that are currently being evaluated include PMMA, polyesters, silica and biopolymers. To reduce the damage caused by UV rays that manage to reach the skin, JeanFrancois Nicolay of Exsymol suggested incorporating oxothiazolidine (OTZ) into formulas. According to the speaker, the material provides protection against UVA and UVB, and scavenges reactive oxygen species, which leads to ring opening and formation of taurine, a natural protective compound in the skin. In addition, OTZ dose-dependently inhibited infrared radiation-induced MMP1 overexpression. The morning session closed with the Frontiers of Science Award lecture. Philip Wertz of the University of Iowa reviewed the composition of stratum corneum lipid, their structure and their relation to the barrier function. Wertz refused to answer his own question,“should cosmetic ingredients cross the SC?” Instead, he reviewed four ways that ingredients could penetrate beyond the outer layer of the skin: sweat glands, hair follicles, and intercellular and transcellular methods. He noted too, that conventional liposomes do not penetrate the SC, but they January 2011

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Howard Epstein of EMD Chemicals moderated the opening session on sun protection.

may diffuse and release their contents. Moreover, materials with molecular weights equal to or greater than 400 daltons do not diffuse well through the stratum corneum. In contrast, quantum dots, which have been widely used for imaging purposes in medical diagnostics, can pass through the SC. The afternoon featured concurrent sessions devoted to genomics and hair. The former, moderated by Karl Lintner, included a presentation by Remona Gopaul of Nu Skin Enterprises who reviewed the current analytical genomic techniques used for gene expression profiling of the skin. In her opening remarks, Gopaul noted that cosmetic companies have been using genomic techniques to understand the expression of specific genes and their relationship to particular skin attributes as well as to test topical ingredients and formulations. She reviewed common techniques including microassay, SAGE, RNA-Sequencing, RTPCR and northern blot. She noted that the method of choice in conducting genomic experiments on skin tissue is based on individual study objectives and hypotheses. For example, microassay may be best if the objective of the experiment is to get a global understanding of gene expression under specific conditions. On the other hand, if the objective happi.com

A concurrent afternoon session on hair was moderated by Jim Vlasic and included a presentation by Tom Dawson of Procter & Gamble, who looked at the factors affecting hair health and how age changes the density and diameter of hair. Dawson also provided details on a new way to measure hair growth. He reviewed the hair growth cycle, which includes the anagen (on), catagen (stopping), telogen (off) and neogen (starting) phases. In young, healthy scalps, hair typically grows for three years, stops for three weeks and remains dormant for three months. But with aging, there is a shorter active phase that produces fewer hairs, and these are smaller and of poorer quality than normal hair. As the hair ages, there are five main changes that are observed: gray levels, diameter, curvature, density and lipids. With age, the amount of hair is reduced as well as the diameter and density. A loss of melanin leads to gray hair and lower sebum production leads to dryness, breakage and frizz. In one study, diameter and density were measured on more than 1000 women ages 18-65. Despite the magnitude of the study, there are other ways to find out about women’s hair health—just ask them. “If women think that their hair is thinning, it is!,” Dawson told the audience. Researchers found that hair density decreased with age after the 20s, and the rate of density loss accelerated when women reached their 40s. Hair diameter increased until the 40s, then dropped. Hair shaft diameter was more influenced by menopause than density, according to Dawson. Changes in hair density were similar across the scalp, while changes in diameter were accentuated on frontal scalp versus occipital scalp. One key finding is that in pre-menopausal women, frontal scalp has higher hair counts than occipital scalp. Moreover, on frontal scalp, postmenopausal counts are significantly less happi • 91

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launches, followed by Henkel (180), P&G (117) and Beiersdorf (60). Among these launches, 52% made functional claims, 29% made beauty-enhancing claims, 26% made natural claims and 19% made convenience claims. Some of the most important attributes of these products are improved volume, springiness and stiffness, according to Rocafort. Emerging formulation trends include more resin blending, incorporation of particles and clays to increase volume, the use of new polymer/gel hybrids to thicken and style hair and the incorporation of proteins in styling products to boost hair strength.

Friday Sessions The hair care session speakers included (l-r): Colleen Rocafort, Tom Dawson, Trefor Evans and moderator Jim Vlasic.

relative to pre-menopausal. Therefore, to understand the effect of aging on what women perceive, one must measure from the frontal scalp. To measure human hair diameter, P&G relied on Optimal Fiber Diameter Analyser (OFDA), which is an ASTM-accepted measuring method for wool. According to Dawson, OFDA enables researchers to measure small snippets from every hair, reveals a broad diameter range in human hair, has increased throughput, and costs less than other measuring methods. However, Dawson warned that modifications are necessary for human hair. He also reviewed the five stages of hair aging, which are: • First year; • Age 1-12 (pre-puberty); • Age 12-30; • Age 31-45; and • > 45 (post-menopause). Between 35-45, the amount of gray hair increases, hair is thicker and less straight with higher frizz, less manageable and less smooth. It has lower shine and gets less UV protection from melanin. But an increase in coloring leads to oxidative damage, color fade and increased environmental damage. 92 • happi

After 45, there are more significant hair structure changes observed in this age group, including: • Lower density (particularly in the frontal region); • Lower diameter; • Lower sebum levels; • Higher curvature (observed in Asian women, not studied in Caucasian women); and • Shorter anagen period (i.e., shorter hair). These changes are perceivable to consumers, as hair has less body, is less greasy, less smooth (which may be linked to curvature), weaker and less manageable. Colleen Rocafort of BASF reviewed some of the latest hair styling trends. She noted that while hair care sales fell in 2009, styling products remain an important category. Consumers want longerlasting hold as well as products for styling older hair. Citing Mintel data, Rocafort noted that 2,136 new hair styling products were launched in 2009, but most of the launches were line extensions. By country, the U.S. led the way, followed by the UK, Japan, Germany, Italy and France. By company, L’Oréal/Garnier had 240 happi.com

The second day of the annual meeting included sessions on genomics and new technologies and trends in skin. Martha Tate of Kimberly-Clark moderated the session devoted to skin technologies and trends. David Boudier of Silab described a novel biological pathway for detoxification of skin cells in his presentation, “The autophagic system: A new era in skin detoxification.” He noted that the skin is the constant target of diverse internal and external stresses that damage its constituent components (proteins, lipids, DNA and organelles). This damage clogs and pollutes the cells of the skin, leading to the first signs of fatigue and premature aging. To counteract the damage, the skin has a natural detoxification system that is composed of two major mechanisms that complement each other, the proteasome and autophagy. In recent years, many studies have been conducted on the proteasome, a sensitive detoxification system. In contrast, there have been very few studies on the autophagic mechanism in skin cells. However, this detoxification system is powerful. It complements proteasome at a basal level, becoming a“relay system”in the case of repeated or greater stresses that would result in inhibition of the proteasome. Silab researchers, in partnership with the University of Limoges, have investigated this detoxification process, which has not January 2011

SCC Annual Meeting

been explored to any significant extent to date in dermatocosmetic research. The researchers have shown that autophagy may be used as a valid target for increasing skin cellular resistance to oxidative stress. This new cellular mechanism may serve as a basis for further developments of innovative natural active ingredients for the cosmetic industry. Melanie Sabadotto of Laboratoires Serobiologiques/Cognis France demonstrated the suitability and validity of the corneovacumeter, which is a new device for evaluating the skin’s biomechanical properties. The speaker measured these properties with Cutometer SEM575 and Corneovacumeter. For both devices, the evaluation of the mechanical properties of the skin

was based on skin deformation induced by suction, but different systems were used for the measurement of displacement. The Corneovacumeter was found to be suitable for the evaluation of the skin’s biomechanical properties.

A Look at Devices Brian Czetty of Procter & Gamble presented his findings on powered devices for facial cleansing. The title of his presentation was “Powered devices for facial cleansing: should they occupy space in the facial cleansing device toolbox?” This research was initiated because there are little clinical data proving the advantages of deviceaided cleansing versus conventional cleansing methods.

Yash Kamath Earns the SCC’s Highest Honor The Maison G. deNavarre Medal Award

Y

ASH KAMATH, PH.D., received the Maison G. deNavarre Medal Award

during the Awards Luncheon, which was held Dec. 9. Prior to his retirement in 2006, Kamath was with TRI/Princeton for 34 years. He was a co-winner of the SCC Literature Award in 1986, while his team at TRI/Princeton won the SCC Best Paper Award three times. Currently, he has his own consulting company, Kamath Consulting, where he continues his research work in hair and skin. The deNavarre Medal Award is the Society’s highest honor and is awarded to an individual for his or her technical contributions to cosmetic science. Other award winners honored during the annual meeting included: Shaw Mudge Award, sponsored by BASF: Betsy Schmalz Ferguson for her paper, “Remix. Reformulate. Renew. Red, the New Chemistry of Success.” The award recognizes the best paper presented at the Annual Scientific Seminar. Allan B. Black Award, sponsored by Presperse: Jane Hollenberg, Yun mi Kim, Youlin Pan and Barry Arkles for their paper, “Surface Treatments to Improve Pigment Dispersion in Aqueous Media.” The award recognizes the best paper on makeup technology either presented at the previous annual scientific meeting or seminar or published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science. This paper was presented at the 2010 annual scientific seminar. Hans A. Schaeffer Award, sponsored by Arch Personal Care Products: Jennifer Marsh for her paper, “New Product Design Strategies for Colored Hair.” The award recognizes the most innovative paper presented at either the previous annual scientific meeting or seminar. This paper was presented at the 2010 annual scientific seminar. Joseph P. Ciaudelli Award, sponsored by Croda, Inc.: Hiroto Tanamachi, Shigeto Inoue, Noriyuki Tanji, Hisashi Tusjimura, Masashi

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Rotating and oscillating brushes were compared to conventional manual skin cleansing for makeup removal, stratum corneum exfoliation, barrier function, effects on anaerobic bacteria populations and stratum corneum hydration when cleansing was followed with topical moisturizer. Several standardized test methods were used to compare two powered facial cleansing devices to traditional manual cleansing. The study found several beneficial uses of the powered cleansing devices. For example, a significant change in viable anaerobic bacteria population on the face was detected after successive uses of the powered rotating device. • For more SCC annual meeting coverage, visit Happi.com.

Oguri, Mio Ishita, Shinichi Tokunaga and Fumiko Sazanami for their paper, “Deposition of 18-MEA onto alkaline-colored-treated weathered hair to form a persistent hydrophobicity.” The award recognizes the best article submitted to the Journal of Cosmetic Science on the subject of hair care technology in 2009. Des Goddard Award, sponsored by Arch Personal Care Products: Melanie Urdiales for her paper, “Hyperbranched polyalphaolefins improve shine, durability and stability of color cosmetic formulations.” The award recognizes the most innovative paper on the topic of polymer science related to cosmetics or personal care presented at either the annual scientific seminar or meeting. This paper was presented at the 2009 annual scientific meeting. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Award, sponsored by The Hallstar Company: Vito Cataldo, James Gruber, Ph.D., Francesca Muia and Lisa Bouldin, for their paper: “Stimulation of extracellular matrix proteins by UV-light on the presence of optically-responsive powders.” This award recognizes the best paper that makes the greatest scientific contribution to the knowledge in the field of protecting against or ameliorating damage to human skin caused by exposure to UV radiation presented at the annual scientific seminar. This paper was presented at the 2010 annual scientific seminar. Robert A. Kramer Lifetime Service Award: Robert Saute, Ph.D., for his extraordinary service and distinguished leadership in society activities over the course of his membership, which has spanned 57 years. SCC Merit Award: Mindy S. Goldstein, Ph.D., for her outstanding services and distinguished leadership in society activities, especially for serving as the 56th president, chair and member of the COSA Committee and editor of the Journal of Cosmetic Science. Finally, a certificate of appreciation was presented to Robert Lochhead, Ph.D., in recognition of able and efficient leadership, his counsel, and unselfishness as the Society’s 64th president.

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Meetings

ACI ANNUAL CONVENTION IS JAN. 25-29 IN FLORIDA Jan. 19-20: CosmetAgora, Espace Charenton, Paris, France. More info: www.cosmetagora.com

Jan. 25-29: American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Convention, Grande Lakes, FL. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

Feb. 7-10: InformexUSA, Charlotte, NC.

Major Meetings at a Glance Jan. 25-29: American Cleaning Institute (ACI) 2011 Convention, Grande Lakes, FL. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

Feb. 28-March 2: Personal Care Product Council Annual Meeting, The Breakers, West Palm Beach, FL.

More info: www.informex.ubm-info.com

Feb. 8-9: The 7th Edition of Perfume, Cosmetics & Design (PCD) Congress, Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, Paris, France.

More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

March 29-31: In-Cosmetics, Milan, Halls 1-3, Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

May 3-6: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) Midyear Meeting, Marriott Downtown Hotel, Chicago, IL.

More info: www.pcd-congress.com

Feb. 15: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Newsmaker Forum, A Conversation with Carmen Bauza of Walmart, The Harmonie Club, New York, NY. More info: www.cew.org

More info: www.cspa.org

May 10-11: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org

June 2-3: Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2011 Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio Resort, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.scconline.org

Feb. 23-24: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) International Roundtable, Stockholm, Sweden.

June 6-8: CESIO 8th World Surfactant Congress, Vienna, Austria.

More info: www.plma.com

June 28-30: HBA Global Expo, Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY.

Feb. 23-27: Packaging Distributors and Manufacturers 2011 Convention, The Seagate Hotel & Spa, Delray Beach, FL.

More info: www.cesio2011.com More info: www.hbaexpo.com

Oct. 25-26: California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA. More info: www.caliscc.org

More info: Jenifer Brady, (908) 233-1234, E-mail: [email protected]

Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL.

Feb. 24: Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) Technical/Regulatory Forum, Balboa Bay Club and Resort, Newport Beach, CA.

More info: www.cspa.org

More info: www.icmad.org

Feb. 28-March 2: Personal Care Product Council Annual Meeting, The Breakers, West Palm Beach, FL.

Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, New York, NY. More info: www.scconline.org

2012 May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC. More info: www.scconline.org

More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

March 24-27: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) Annual Meeting & Conference, Hyatt at Gainey Ranch, Scottsdale, AZ. More info: www.plma.com

March 28-30: The SymphonyIRI Group Summit 2011, Fontainebleau Miami Beach Resort and Spa, Miami, FL. More info: www.SymphonyIRI.com

March 29-31: In-Cosmetics 2011, Halls 13, Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy. 94 • happi

More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

April 8: Fragrance Foundation FiFi Finalists Breakfast, The Mandarin Oriental Hotel, New York, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

April 13: Green Products Expo, New York Grand Hyatt Hotel, New York, NY. More info: www.greenproductsexpo.com

April 28: Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) happi.com

FDA Workshop, New York, NY. More info: www.icmad.org

May 3-6: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) Midyear Meeting, Marriott Downtown Hotel, Chicago, IL. More info: www.cspa.org

May 10-11: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Edison, NJ. January 2011

Meetings

More info: www.nyscc.org

May 12-14: Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, New York, NY. More info: www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com

May 17: Luxe Pack Art of Packaging Award Gala, New York’s University Club, New York, NY. More info: www.luxepacknewyork.com

May 20: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) 2011 Beauty Awards Luncheon, Waldorf Astoria, New York City. More info: www.cew.org

May 24-25: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) International Trade Show, RAI Exhibition Centre, Amsterdam, The Netherlands. More info: www.plma.com

May 25: The Fragrance Foundation FiFi Awards, The Downtown Armory, New York, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

January 2011

June 2-3: Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2011 Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio Resort, Las Vegas, NV.

Sept. 12-14: Beyond Beauty Paris, Porte de Versailles, France.

More info: www.scconline.org

June 6-8: CESIO 8th World Surfactant Congress and Business Convention, Austria Center Vienna, Austria.

Sept. 21: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Newsmaker Forum, A Conversation with Andrea Jung of Avon, The Harmonie Club, New York, NY.

More info: www.cesio-congress.eu

More info: www.cew.org

June 9: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Women in Beauty Series, A Conversation with Jane Lauder of The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., The Harmonie Club, New York, NY.

Oct. 16-19: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA), New Horizons 2011, Ponte Vedra, FL.

More info: www.cew.org

June 13-16: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) Executive Education Program, St. Joseph’s University, Philadelphia, PA. More info: www.plma.com

More info: www.beyondbeautyparis.com

More info: www.cspa.org

Oct. 19-21: Luxe Pack Monaco, Grimaldi Forum, Monaco. More info: www.luxepack.com

Oct. 25-26: California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA. More info: www.caliscc.org

June 28-30: HBA Global Expo, Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY.

Nov. 1-3: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Conference, Bangkok, Thailand.

More info: www.hbaexpo.com

More info: [email protected] •

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SCC News

IFSCC DE NAVARRE COMPETITION TO SEND SCIENTIST TO BANGKOK • The IFSCC has opened the competition for the Maison G. de Navarre Young Scientist Prize, an honor that allows for a young cosmetic scientist to attend an IFSCC Conference with the cost of travel, accommodation and registration fees covered by IFSCC. The 2011 winner will be invited to attend the 2011 IFSCC Conference in Bangkok, Nov. 1-3, and IFSCC will cover the cost of travel, accommodation and reg-

istration fees up to 6000 Swiss Francs. Any member of a society of the IFSCC, normally under the age of 35, may apply. All applicants should submit an essay of no less than 500 words on one of the following topics: • What is the social role of cosmetics? • Cosmetics, environmental protection and sustainable development. • Why I would like to work in cosmetics (research, industry, education, etc.).

• What I would change in the teaching of cosmetics. Applicants must be members of good standing in their society, which in turn must be current in its Federation subscription. In addition, applicants must submit proof that they are actively employed in a technical capacity in the cosmetics industry or related academia and that they meet relevant requirements, according to IFSCC.

2011 SCC National & Chapter Events Jan. 20: Florida Chapter Meeting—“The Advantages of Using Micronized Benzoyl Peroxide in Acne Products,” Mike Davies, speaker; Ft. Lauderdale, FL area. More info: www.flscc.org Jan. 25: SCC Course—“Cosmetic Rheology,” Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org Feb. 2: New York Chapter Monthly Meeting, The Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Feb. 9: SCC Course—“Preservatives,” Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org Feb. 17: Ontario Chapter Meeting, The Venetian, Vaughan, ON. More info: www.ontarioscc.org Feb. 17: Florida Chapter Meeting, “Novel Active Ingredients for Cosmetics from Plant Cell Culture Technologies,” Fred Zülli, speaker; St. Augustine, FL area. More info: www.flscc.org Feb. 24: Intermountain West Chapter, “SNL” Meeting, La Caille, Sandy UT. More info: www.imwscc.org March 3-4: SCC Course—“Introduction To Polymer Sciences and Its Applications in the Cosmetic Industry,” Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org

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March 5: New York Chapter Monthly Meeting, Seasons, Westwood, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org March 15: Fifth Biennial Holistic Cosmetic Symposium & Supplier Showcase, Earle Brown Center, Brooklyn Center, MN. More info: www.tccscc.org March 24: Florida Chapter Meeting, “Fort Lauderdale, FL area. More info: www.flscc.org March 24: SCC Course—“Fragrance as a Science,” Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org April 7: Ontario Chapter Meeting, The Venetian, Vaughan, ON. More info: www.ontarioscc.org April 13-14: SCC Course—“The Chemistry & Formulation of Color Cosmetics,” Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org April 28: SCC Course—“Gums, Thickeners and Polymers,” Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org May 5: SCC Course—“Practical Basics & Theory in Emulsion Technology,”Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org

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May 5: Intermountain West Chapter’s “IOU” at Noah’s. More info: www.imscc.org April 28: Florida Chapter Meeting, “USDA NOP Organics,” Peter Boncelet, speaker; Tampa, FL area. More info: www.flscc.org May 10-11: NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org June 2-3: SCC Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.scconline.org July 19: Ontario 11th Annual Golf Tournament, Caledon Woods Golf Club. More info: www.ontarioscc.org Sept. 14: New York Chapter Monthly Meeting, Pleasantdale Chateau, West Orange, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter 2011 Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, FL. More info: www.flscc.org Oct. 5: New York Chapter Monthly Meeting, The Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Oct. 25-26: California Chapter, Suppliers’ Day 2011, Long Beach, CA. More info: www.caliscc.org

January 2011

SCC News

Applicants are to submit electronic copies of the essay (in English) with the information requested on the entry form (available from the local Society) to [email protected] by June 1. The award winner must attend the conference and accept the prize in person. More info: www.ifscc.org

26th IFSCC Congress By the Numbers At the 26th IFSCC Congress, which was held Sept. 20-23, 2010 in Buenos Aires, Argentina, nearly 900 delegates from 39 countries listened to four keynote lectures and 66 podium papers and viewed 247 posters under the theme of “Innovation and Responsibility: Cosmetics Forever.” The congress was organized the Argentinian Society of Cosmetic Chemists. During the awards presentation, held

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on the last evening of the Congress, the Applied Research Award was won by Tomoka Ikeda, Tomo Osawa, Noriko Tomita and Tanemasa Nagano of Shiseido Research for their paper,“No more smear coffee cups!! A novel, long-lasting non-smear lipstick utilizing a phase separation mechanism is totally devoid of secondary stain.” T. Hibino, Y. Kamatal, M. Yamamoto, M. Egawa, J. Nomura, T, Iida, R. Tsuboi, K. Ishihara and A. Takeda won the Basic Research award for their paper, “Characterization and regulatory mechanisms of bleomycin hydrolase as a natural moisturizing factor (NMF)-generation enzyme in human epidermis.” Y. Sugiyama, A. Matsuo, T. Ohmori, H. Shimizu, T. Kimura, D. Yoshizawa, Y. Tezuka, Y. Aoki and Y. Morshima won the poster presentation competition for their poster, “A novel, self-assembled structure for transparent, reversible deformable oil

gels and its application to cosmetics.” The Basic Honorary Mention award was presented to Eric Johnson, Jun Zhang, Anna Svensson, Olga Santos, Maryline Clauzel, Lennart Piculcell and Tommy Nylander for “Polymer-surfactant phase and surface interactions leading to new models for cationic polymer chemistries.” The Best Argentinian Paper award was presented to Jorge Montanari, Maria Morilla and Eder Romero for their paper “Ultradeformable liposomes for topic application of cosmetic actives can modulate their destination across the stratum corneum.” Also, the Best Raw Material award was presented to Norberto Delic, Juliana Scotto, Valeria Arce, Monica Gonzalez, Patricia Allegretti and Daniel Mártire for “Silica nanoparticles modified with cinnamic alcohol, synthesis characertization and uses in UV protection.” •

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January 2011

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happi • 97

Packaging News

MWV CREATES PUMP FOR HERMÈS SCENT • MeadWestvaco Corp. (MWV) created a customized pump for Hermès’ Voyage d’Hermès fragrance. The product features MWV’s NoC dip tube and a threaded ferrule created specifically for the Melodie pump. In order to meet the customer’s request to offer a more environmentally responsible packaging solution, MWV created a threaded ferrule adapted to its highly successful low profile Melodie pump to enable the cusA customized pump for Hermès’ Voyage tomer to refill the bottle with refilld’Hermès fragrance by MWV. able formats sold separately by Hermès, according to the company.

WWP Offers New High-EndTubes •World Wide Packaging

Fusion Packaging Reveals New Airless Bottle • Fusion Packaging has released a new airless bottle aptly named Reveal. A transparent view strip enables the user to see the product within. The packaging is available in 15-, 30- and 50ml sizes for a variety of personal care products. “We continue to focus on providing a vast array of options when it comes to airless packaging,” said Derek Harvey, co-chief executive officer of Fusion Packaging. “Ensuring the con- Fusion Packaging’s Reveal airless bottle. sumers’ repurchase, Reveal will surely increase a brand’s loyalty.” More info: www.fusionpkg.com

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The packaging created for the Voyage d’Hermès fragrance also fits into an ongoing consumer trend of wanting to buy packaging that is environmentally responsible. “MWV is a proud partner to some of the most prestigious perfume launches, and is delighted to have collaborated with Hermès to create a differentiated solution,”said Sandy Gregory, MWV fragrance marketing director. “This fragrance was designed with the consumer in mind. The elegant pairing of the NoC dip tube and the removable threaded ferrule which is hidden behind a ferrule cover, contributes to the creation of an aesthetically pleasing pack with an environmentally responsible feature.” The package features MWV’s recently patented fragrance dispensing system including its NoC dip tube. NoC is a virtually invisible dip tube using light-refracting technology and, by its visual absence, allows the design of the bottle to take center stage. Voyage d’Hermès is the latest from perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. Philippe Mouquet designed the bottle. It is available in 35and 100ml refillable eau de toilette spray and in 125ml refills. More info: www.mwv.com

LLC (WWP), debuted two new, unique tubes each offering a sophisticated, high-end, customized look for strong shelf-appeal, according to the company. The first product is a 35mm oval tube, made with a form of laminate that looks very much like metal. The laminate creates a very subtle over- Crinkle Finish is a new product from WWP lap, making the tube created through a special spray process. appear to be almost seamless, allowing for graphics to be printed all the way around the body of the tube. For added value, WWP can bring customized closures to this tube through its engineering expertise and specialized tooling. The second new tube WWP is offering is a 19mm round tube with a luxury decoration effect called Crinkle Finish. According to

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January 2011

Packaging News

the company, the product is created through a special spray process in which the spray is colored and contains particles that are large in size, giving the product a dynamic, textured look. Both products were recently used by a major lingerie/women’s clothing retailer as part of its personal care line. Specifically, Crinkle Finish was used for a Holiday 2010 promotion lipgloss that served as a gift with purchase (GWP). More info: www.wwpinc.com

Introducing Albéa—Formerly Known as Alcan • Albéa is the new company brand name for Alcan Packaging that will be rolled out globally during the next six months. According to the company, the new brand identity is based on a subtle name change and a powerful logo. The semantics of Albéa evoke the word “beauty” and symbolize material embellishment, referring to its core business. The letter “a” at the beginning and at the end of the name reflects its openness, according to the company. “It represents our great care for our customers’ products, as well as our focus to support their development worldwide,” explained Francois Luscan, president and chief executive officer of Albéa. More info: www.albea-group.com

January 2011

Luxury Packaging Draws International Buyers to Monaco •The 23rd edition of Luxe Pack Monaco, which was held Oct. 20-22, 2010, drew a large percentage of international exhibitors and attendees. Forty new suppliers brought the number of booths to a new high of 340; more than 30 countries were represented. While attendance reached a healthy 5,726 visitors, it suffered a 3% loss due to worker strikes in neighboring France. More than half of the attendees (54%) were international, representing nearly 80 countries. European exhibitors, in particular, reported a recovered economy, and a new optimism permeated the show. Decorative techniques, sustainable packaging and airless components stood out as key trends, but new and innovative launches ranged across all categories, from cartons to pumps to glass and more. Many innovations were presented at the show’s new Innovation Forum, an“amphitheater”that allowed suppliers 20 minutes to introduce their products to a number of attendees at once. Topics specific to the luxury packaging industry were presented in a series of panels. The next edition of Luxe Pack Monaco will take place Oct. 19-21, 2011 at the Grimaldi Forum. More info: www.luxepack.com •

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Financial News

Q1 SALES JUMP 14% AT ESTÉE LAUDER launches of new Pure Color • The Estée Lauder Compalip and eye products and nies Inc. posted financial results Resilience Lift Extreme Rafor the first quarter ended Sept. diant Lifting Makeup SPF 30, 2010 that were “sharply 15 from Estée Lauder, as higher” than the prior-year pewell as Acne Solutions Liqriod, according to the company. uid Makeup and Redness Net sales rose 14% to $2.09 bilSolutions Makeup SPF 15 lion, while net earnings infrom Clinique. creased 36% to $191.1 million. Net sales of fragrance Fabrizio Freda, president products increased comand chief executive officer, said, pared with the prior-year “We had an excellent quarter quarter. Incremental sales and made a strong entrance were generated from the into fiscal 2011 with solid, dourecent launches of Pure ble-digit top and bottom line DKNY, Estée Lauder Pleasgrowth. ” ures Bloom and Coach In skin care, across each rePoppy, as well as higher gion, the Estée Lauder brand sales of Tom Ford and Jo had strong sales from the recent Malone fragrances. launches of Advanced Night ReWhile the category pair Eye Synchronized Complex benefited from incremenand Hydrationist Maximum tal sales from expanded Moisture Crème and Lotion. distribution, particularly Contributing to the increased outside the U.S., as well as sales were the successful recent from the recent launch of launches of Even Better Clinical Control Force from Aveda, Dark Spot Corrector (pictured at overall, hair care net sales right), Repairwear Laser Focus decreased. These improveWrinkle & UV Damage Correcments were more than tor, All About Eyes Serum Deoffset by lower net sales Puffing Night Massage and resulting from the reforYouth Surge Night Age Decelermulation and anticipated ating Night Moisturizer from relaunch of Ojon brand Clinique. The Regenerating Serum and The Eye Balm In- This new Clinique product products. Net sales are forecasted tense, new products from La contributed to a rise in sales. to grow between 7-9% for Mer, as well as other successful products from La Mer, also contributed in- the fiscal year, according to the company. cremental sales. The majority of the sales increase came Q3 Gains at Yankee Candle from the company’s makeup artist brands. • Yankee Holding Corp. and The YanIncremental sales from the inclusion of the kee Candle Company, Inc. posted favorable Smashbox brand, which was acquired in financial results for the third quarter ended July 2010, also contributed to the increase. Oct. 2, 2010. Sales for the third quarter According to the company, the higher jumped 4.1% to $175.8 million. makeup sales reflected increases across a Sales in the company’s wholesale busibroad range of products, such as the recent ness increased 3.7% to $96.2 million, while 100 • happi

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retail sales rose 4.7% to $79.6 million. The company generated net income of $8.8 million for the third quarter of 2010 compared to a net loss of $700,000 a year ago. For the nine months ended Oct. 2, 2010, retail sales increased 7.8% to $225 million, driven primarily by an increase in new stores opened after the third quarter of 2009 and an increase in comparable store sales, said the company. Wholesale sales increased 9.6% to $217.1 million.

Net Sales Rise 1.7% At Church & Dwight • Church & Dwight Co., Inc. reported that net sales for the third quarter ended Oct. 1, 2010 jumped 1.7% to $656.9 million. Net income for the quarter fell less than 1% to $69.5 million. According to James R. Craigie, chairman and chief executive officer, new product launches such as Arm & Hammer Power Gel Laundry Detergent have been key contributors to the company’s growth this year. He commented, “We are pleased with our third quarter business results in what continues to be a difficult economic and competitive environment. Despite unit declines in most of our categories, our domestic consumer business delivered unit share increases on six of our eight power brands. In September 2010, our aggregate domestic share in measured channels was the highest of the year. We expect to end the year with momentum in our major brands.” Craigie added,“Our focus in 2010 continues to be on increasing unit market share growth for our products. In spite of weak consumer demand earlier in 2010, we are expecting full year unit market share to improve for around five to six of our eight power brands. “We expect organic sales growth of approximately 3% in 2010 with volume contributing 5%, offset by price and product mix declines of approximately 2%.” • January 2011

Supplier’s Corner

AKZONOBEL DEBUTS ALTERNATIVE TO NPE INDUSTRIAL DEGREASERS Dequest PB Is Ideal For Eco-Friendly Detergents

• Here is good news for formulators facing the challenge of replacing nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) in industrial detergents and cleaners: AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry has introduced Berol 609, an alcohol ethoxylate blend designed to match

Berol 609 is ideal for aqueous cleaning products.

the key properties and effective performance of NPEs typically used in industrial degreasing formulations (NP9 and NP10), while providing a safe, readily biodegradable alternative and exceeding the degreasing power of leading NPE replacements, according to the company. Both the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the industrial laundry industry are targeting the phase-out of NPEs in 2013. As a result, formulators will find the introduction of Berol 609, the next generation of NPE replacement, very timely, according to AkzoNobel. Berol 609 may be used as a direct dropin replacement for NP9 and NP10 in aqueous cleaning formulations. Developed to formulate efficient aqueous cleaners, it is completely water-soluble. And when it is placed in existing formulations, none of the other components need be modified to maintain performance. More info: www.surfactants.akzonobel.com January 2011

Dequest PB grades are eco-friendly products obtained by turning a natural substance into effective ingredients, according to Thermphos USA. Its active component, carboxymethyl inulin sodium salt, is obtained from a polysaccharide extracted from chicory root (Inulin). Its exceptionally low toxicity, nonpersistent character and natural origin ensure that it has a low impact on the environment. Additionally, its binding capabilities and dispersing properties make it an ingredient of choice for eco-friendly detergents, according to the company. Dequest PB is an environmentally friendly, fast acting, water-soluble builder component with co-builder properties. It delivers multiple benefits through the wash, ranging from scale prevention to glass corrosion inhibition. Thanks to its high solubility in cold wash condition, Dequest PB acts right from the beginning of the wash to handle hardness ions. More info: Thermphos USA Corporation, (877) 888-4425, [email protected]

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Flax Seed Extract Key In Skin Care Ingredient • Helping consumers achieve younger, healthier-looking skin begins with effective protection against environmental factors. To help optimize the skin’s barrier function, ISP has introduced Lipigenine, a novel ingredient that may help boost skin lipid synthesis in the stratum corneum for optimized lipidic homeostasis and better protection of the skin. Lipigenine, a flax seed extract, was designed to help the skin optimize lipidic homeostasis by boosting the synthesis of stratum corneum intercellular lipids (e.g., ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids), according to ISP. Its protective properties make Lipigenine ideal for skin care prodhappi.com

ucts positioned for consumers with dry and sensitive skin and in products to counter the drying effects of daily exposure to detergents and soaps. More info: www.ispcorp.com

New Innovations at Sederma • To reduce the signs of aging, Sederma expanded its Matrixyl range with Matrixyl Synthe’6. According to the company, it fills in wrinkles from the inside both on the forehead and the crow’s feet area for visibly smoother and plumper skin. Sederma also is proud to offer a new solution to those looking to reduce irregularities in pigmentation or to lighten skin complexion. Based on a botanical, Wonderlight acts on both melanocytes and associated keratinocytes to help lessen pigmentation disorders, according to the company. It is preservative free and is approved for Japan. More info: (33) 134841010, [email protected], www.sederma.fr; in the U.S., [email protected], www.crodausa.com

Dow Introduces Zinc-Free Film Former As part of its strategy to expand its portfolio of sustainable solutions to meet the evolving needs of the global floor care industry, Dow Fabric & Surface Care rolled out Duragreen 135 Polymer, a new zincfree film former for household floor care. According to the company, the polymer provides a number of environmental advantages and performance benefits to formulators of floor care products. It enables the formulation of high-gloss polishes without the use of undesirable ingredients, such as tributoxyethylphosphate, fluorosurfactants and silicone defoamers, thereby enabling formulators to optimize their products by reducing the number of ingredients used. More info: www.scienceofcare.com •

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New Products

OPI DEBUTS KATY PERRY, SERENA WILLIAMS COLLECTIONS • OPI’s latest celebrity collaborations aim to capture every girl’s“Teenage Dream” of becoming a superstar in sports or on the radio. The nail polish company’s January 2011 launches include collections with tennis player Serena Williams and recording artist Katy Perry ($8 per bottle). Timed in conjunction with the Australian Open, French Open, Wimbledon and the U.S. Open, the Glam Slam collection will introduce two new nail lacquers at the start of each tournament. The first shades to be released under the collaboration will include Simply Smashing, a glowing green nail lacquer, paired with a revolutionary new product, Black Shatter. Once applied to the dried lacquer, Black Shatter begins to disappear, leaving behind a leopard printstyle pattern on each nail, according to the company. The Shatter product is also available in the Last Friday Night is a hot Katy Perry collection. Innew hue from OPI. spired by Katy’s cutting edge style and latest album, Teenage Dream, the range will include four fierce, irresistible colors for nails and toes, said OPI. More info: www.opi.com …Even More Katy Perry Purr by Katy Perry is the singer’s debut scent, offered at select Nordstrom stores. It opens with a fresh citrus accord featuring peach nectar and apple. Support-

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Purr by Katy Perry.

ing notes include a delicate bouquet of jasmine blossom, freesia and Bulgarian rose, balanced by vanilla orchid, white amber, sandalwood and musk. The eau de parfum, developed with Firmenich, is available in 1.7 ($45) and 3.4 oz. ($65) bottles. More info: www.katyperry.com

TheBalm Expands with Primer • For 2011, TheBalm launches Time Balm Primer ($30), a silky-smooth, vitamin-rich primer that conditions the complexion, according to the company. The product is infused with vitamins A, C and E as well as allantoin and bioflavonoid, both anti-inflammatory ingredients. It is available at select Sephora stores and upscale boutiques and spas worldwide. More info: www.thebalm.com

CoverGirl Thinks Big For 2011 with Innovations CoverGirl is rolling out a variety of new products for 2011. Procter & Gamble’s leading mass market color cosmetics brand is set to debut NatureLuxe, positioned as the first luxury and natural-inspired boutique brand from the company. Taylor Swift is the spokesperson. The collection includes a Silk Foundation and a Gloss Balm and uses natural ingredients rather than heavier-feeling synthetics, according to the company. The foundation, for example, contains hints of natural jojoba and rosehip extracts. The

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balm contains mango, shea and other butters. Additionally, NatureLuxe’s packaging will contain a very small amount of bioresin, which is a renewable, sustainable, sugarcane-derived plastic. CoverGirl will also roll out a new range of lipsticks, Lip Perfection, said to improve the condition of the lips within a week. More info: www.covergirl.com

Physicians Formula Introduces Cashmere Wear Smoothing Bronzer • The bronzer category continues to grow, with quadruple the number of users turning to this tanning alternatives. Physicians Formula ups the ante with Cashmere Wear ($13.95), a pampering way to get a tan glow with the added anti-aging benefit of 100% pure cashmere extract, according to the company. The surface of the powder is created using a specialized technique to deliver the lush look of cabled cashmere knitwear, while the powder itself is comprised of complementary bronze and gold tones. Hyaluronic acid delivers superior moisturization benefits. More info: www.physiciansfor- Cashmere Wear bronzer. mula.com

GrabGreen Offers Eco-Focused Home Care • Based in Camarillo, CA, GrabGreen offers a variety of “pod” type products from 3-in-1 laundry detergent to bleach alternative to automatic dishwashing detergent to home cleaning products such as liquid dish soap, glass cleaner, all-purpose surface cleaner, degreaser cleaner and fabric freshener spray. More info: www.grabgreenhome.com January 2011

New Products

LaLicious Goes Au Naturel • LaLicious, a high-end bath and body

Eco-friendly household cleansers from GrabGreen.

New Capsule Collection From Three Custom Color • Rising young design star Miles Ehan partnered with Three Custom Color Specialists to bring the colors of his sugary sweet designs into the world of color cosmetics. The collection will also introduce a cotton candy flavored lip gloss, a first for Three Custom Color Specialists. New products include Icing on the Cupcake Eye Shadow ($22.50), a kaleidoscope of fine, light-reflecting shimmers in gold, pink, teal, violet and blue; Candy Cloud Nine Lip Gloss ($22.50), a sheer pink lipgloss with gold and silver shimmer; and Lollipop Lip & Cheek Stain ($22.50), a rosy pink in a multi-tasking formula. More info: www.threecustom.com

ents include beeswax, shea butter, sunflower seed oil and vitamin E, according to the company. More info: www.evolution-man.com

Leave-In Treatment From Pravana Pravana Naturceuticals Intense Therapy Leave-In Treatment ($17) features a unique botanical extract blend and fastacting moisturizers to detangle and provide deep hydration to hair. It also is designed to protect hair from the green of chlorine, while cooling and soothing irritated skin on your scalp. A 3.4oz. travel-size ($9.99) is available. More info: www.pravana.com

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Tick, Tock—Beauty ‘Round the Clock • Skin care brand Hissyfit

by Reggie Wells, best known for multi-tasking beauty products like SPF-infused moisturizers, is branching out into color cosmet“OMG!”… that’s right, the ics with a set of unique makeup must-have Over Mascara Glitproducts. ter & Liner ($24) from celebrity Hissyfit Clockpots are portable, makeup artist Ramy, according easy-to-use compacts in expertto the company. picked color combinations for The 2-in-1 mascara wand every skin tone, according to the and eyeliner applicator work tocompany. gether to deliver a unique, Products vary from a Face three-dimensional holographic Clockpot ($65), featuring a founshimmer to eyes. dation plus four powders to highMore info: www.ramy.com light, contour, glow and provide a flawless finish to an Eye Clockpot Lip Care for the ($60) that contains a velvety Evolved Man primer and four eye-shadow • EvolutionMan’s new Lip Balm SPF15 ($10) is billed as a Over Mascara Glitter trios to a Cheek Clockpot ($60) that holds a sponge and four high-functioning protective lip Liner by Ramy. color duos that provide a subtle conditioner that delivers a long-lasting matte finish. It is formulated blush, rosy flush, bronzed hue or bold efwithout parabens, sulfates, synthetic fra- fects for the face, said the company. More info: www.hissyfit.com grances/ dyes and phtalates. Key ingredi-

Over Mascara Glitter Liner at Ramy • There’s a new meaning to

January 2011

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marketer based in Los Angeles, debuted a spa-size unscented formulation of its popular body scrub. Its scrubs, butters, oils and soaps are available in eight scents—from Brown Sugar & Vanilla to Lilly Mango— and are comprised of natural ingredients such as almond oil and vitamin E. According to the company, LaLicious products are free of parabens and sulfates. More info: www.lalicious.com

New Nail Polish Corrector Even the most skilled hands make mistakes, which is why Sinful Colors created a product to combat and tackle the occasional trace of polish that creeps beyond the nail. Move over cotton swab, make room for the Sinful Colors Nail Polish Corrector ($1.99), a pencil-skinny wand boasting acetone-free nail polish remover. One swipe erases any unwanted color from the cuticle or skin surrounding the nail. The product also contains extra-moisturizing jojoba oil to keep skin silky and hydrated, according to the company. More info: www.sinfulcolors.com

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Customizable Color From Mary Kay • Color is back by popular demand! The all-new Mary Kay Cream Eye Color ($13) gives women the option of building their own color in luxurious and versatile shades,

Cream Eye Color is big at Mary Kay for 2011.

according to the company. Create a soft look or go vibrant with five vibrant shades, from Apricot Twist to Iced Cocoa. The formulations are smudge-proof and offer a crease-free finish. More info: www.marykay.com • happi • 103

Industry News

L’ORÉAL USA ACQUIRES PEEL’S SALON SERVICES • L’Oréal USA has acquired Peel’s Salon Services and plans to combine the Omaha-based distributor with SalonCentric, the French beauty giant’s portfolio of professional products operations. Peel’s is L’Oréal’s fourth such acquisition in the past 12 months; other distributor deals have included firms such as CB Sullivan, Maly’s Midwest and Marshall Salon Services. Terms of the Peel’s accord were not disclosed. Peel’s, a fourth generation business founded in 1937 by Robert H. Peel, has grown to a business with revenues of more than $100 million, according to L’Oréal. The distributor operates 57 professionalonly stores and, aside from Kansas, has operations in Colorado and Nebraska. SalonCentric president Paul Sharnsky said he was pleased with the deal, adding, “There is a sharing of common values in both our businesses, [principally] a long-standing commitment to this business.” Bob Peel was one of the first Redken distributors in the U.S. during the 1960s. Green Products Expo Is April 13 in New York • The 2011 Green Products Expo will be

held April 13 at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at Grand Central Station in New York City. The fourth annual media-only event attracts more than 80 exhibitors and 300 media attendees. The expo is open to any green company looking to improve its media presence, increase brand awareness or introduce products into different markets. Past exhibitors have shown products in categories including housewares, cleaning products, building products, health and beauty, office supplies, paper products, pet products, food and beverages, paint, jewelry, fashion, water bottles and accessories and more. Last year’s show drew a record crowd of more than 325 media attendees. Editors will be on hand from O Magazine, Good Housekeeping, Real Simple, People, Family Circle, Martha Stewart Living, InStyle, Woman’s Day, Ladies Home Journal and more. The Green Products Expo is designed to provide exhibitors one-on-one face time with busy and influential editors. The show is small enough that media members may walk the entire room and discuss products with vendors. The show generates editorial coverage and helps start lasting relationships that lead to future considerations, according to organizers More info: www.greenproductsexpo.com

BeautyStat.com Is a Beauty Industry Portal • BeautyStat is an online community that brings together influential beauty customers, custom content, industry experts and beauty brands in an interactive and highly engaging format. According to company executives, BeautyStat is the first beauty community to offer women a fun way to identify their individual beauty styles and concerns, discuss their questions with experts and connect to others with similar issues. BeautyStat members have both demonstrated high engagement, as well as three times the social influence of average consumers, according to the company. BeautyStat enables companies to cost-effectively reach the beauty consumer market at large, as well as its 29,000 member community and 11-million plus social network connections, through analysis of 14 customer attributes spanning demographics, buying behavior, and beauty preferences, as well as its social marketing expertise. More info: www.beautystat.com

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Lonza Surfactants Listed On CleanGredients • Lonza Inc., a leader in EPA registered microbial control solutions, has five EPAapproved surfactants that are now listed on www.cleangredients.org. Customers can access the CleanGredients website and learn more about how Lonza’s EPA approved green amine oxide surfactants are used in U.S. EPA DfE approved formulations. The firm's Barlox 10S, Barlox 12, Barlox 12N, Barlox 14, and FMB AO-8 are used in a broad number of industrial applications where coupling, detergency and formulation compatibility are important. CleanGredients is a collaboration between nonprofit sustainability institute GreenBlue, the U.S. EPA and industry leaders, with a combined objective of supplying customers with green alternatives. More information about these products can be found on the CleanGredients website, www.cleangredients.org, and the Lonza website under “Other Products and Services–Biocides.” More info: www.lonza.com

Lubrizol Named Most Popular Raw Material Supplier in China • In recognition of the industry-wide acceptance of Lubrizol’s Carbopol polymers, at the 2010 International Cosmetic Regulation and Technology Forum in Beijing, China, Lubrizol Specialty Chemical (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. was awarded “The Most Popular Raw Material Supplier.” The award was voted on by the Beijing Daily Chemical Industry Association, China Cosmetics magazine and Beijing Technology and Business University. The forum was co-organized by Beijing Daily Chemical Industry Association, China Cosmetics and Beijing Technology and Business University. More than 200 people, including Chinese cosmetics industry authorities, raw material suppliers January 2011

Industry News

and cosmetics manufacturer representatives, attended this event. Siron Xia, technical service and application development engineer from the Noveon Consumer Specialties technical team, represented Lubrizol at the award presentation ceremony. In addition to receiving the award, Lubrizol also held a discussion forum at the event. To further the understanding of the use of Carbopol polymers in applications, Sarah Wang, China technical service engineer, presented Carbopol polymers dispersion techniques.

Kahlwax is one of the world’s leading producers of natural wax for the cosmetics, pharmaceutical, household and food markets. The family-owned company has six decades of expertise in the development, production and commercialization of high quality natural waxes, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, sunflower, berry and rice waxes, and many others. More info: Jerry Williams at Glenn Corp., [email protected], or Steve Pettigrew of DeWolf Chemical, [email protected].

Rhodia Completes Feixiang Acquisition

Nice-Pak Products Plant Goes Zero Landfill

• Specialty chemical producer Rhodia • has completed the acquisition of Feixiang Chemicals (Zhangjiagang) after receiving approval of the Chinese authorities. Located in Zhangjiagang near Shanghai, Feixiang Chemicals is a China’s leading producer of amines and surfactants, and employs about 650 people. According to Rhodia, this acquisition represents a unique opportunity to integrate specialty amines technologies and key intermediates of surfactants, into Novecare’s business portfolio. The combination of Rhodia’s formulation expertise and end-market applications know-how with Feixiang Chemicals’ amines capabilities will reinforce Rhodia’s position in specialty surfactants for the home and personal care, industrial cleaning, agrochemicals, oilfield, coatings and industrial markets. Through the integration of Feixiang Chemicals, Rhodia becomes the largest international surfactant player in Asia. Furthermore, Rhodia enhances its footprint in the world’s fastest growing region by generating one third of its net sales in Asia.

DeWolf, Glenn Corp. Expand Supplier Base DeWolf Chemical, Inc. and Glenn Corp. have been named national distributors of German specialty chemical producer Kahl GmbH & Co. KG (Kahlwax). Headquartered in Trittau, Germany,

•

January 2011

Nice-Pak Products, Inc., a maker of wet wipe products, has announced the transformation of its Mooresville, IN manufacturing plant into a“zero landfill”facility. The plant now converts excess waste into energy that produces steam heat for Indianapolis. Mooresville is the second Nice-Pak manufacturing facility this year to convert its non-recyclable waste stream into energy generation.

Impact Colors Partners Expands Distribution • Impact Colors, Inc., Newark, DE, has forged two new agreements to expand its distribution. The firm has inked an accord with TH Hilson Company, Wheaton, IL, to distribute Impact Colors’ line of color effect pigments and products to the personal care market in central and upper Midwest U.S. In addition, Impact Colors has partnered with CA Specialties of Chester, SC to dis-

tribute Impact Colors’ line of color effect pigments and products to the personal care marketplace in nine Southeastern states. Impact Colors offers a wide variety of very unique products that offer distinctive advantages in performance or color. For example, alchemique pigments transform common flaked aluminum powders into a rich and dramatic collection of rich true colors ranging from gold, bronze, and copper to cobalt, topaz and jade. Diamond variable iridescent pigments produce up to three dramatic and distinct colors depending on how the light strikes. “We have a great line of products with some unique concepts and presentations and are developing and growing distribution partnerships with outstanding companies around the world,”said Doug Thornley, co-founder of Impact Colors. Expanded distribution is a key part of Impact Colors’ growth strategy. In three years, the company has added over 30 distributors worldwide. More info: www.impactcolorsinc.com

Cosmetic Industry Mourns Mel Hoyt • Mel Hoyt, a stalwart of the cosmetic industry, passed away suddenly on Thanksgiving Day, Nov. 25, 2010. Hoyt spent 50-plus years working and selling chemicals for companies including GAF (now ISP), BASF, Onyx Chemical, Lonza, ISI, and most recently, BioOrganic Concepts. He was considered an expert in cosmetic polymers, quats and surfactants. Hoyt was married to Donna Chiese and had three sons and numerous grandchildren. •

Sun Products Settles Lawsuit with U.S. Nonwovens • The Sun Products Corp. has settled its lawsuit filed against U.S. Nonwovens Corporation. Sun Products sued the Brentwood, NY-based company in May 2010 for making and selling products that infringed certain patents, trademarks and trade dress related to its Snuggle, Sunlight and Sun brands. Shortly after Sun Products commenced the lawsuit, U.S. Nonwovens agreed to stop manufacturing and selling products that infringed Sun Products’ intellectual property. The companies entered into discussions and recently finalized a settlement agreement, for which financial terms were not disclosed.

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Personnel Roundup

SHASTRY NAMED TECHNOLOGY MANAGER AT ARIZONA CHEMICAL • Arizona Chemical: appointed Dr. Ramachandra Shastry as technology manager for the specialty products group. His responsibilities include leading the technology assessment and development of specialty polymeric gellants for personal care applications and providing consultative solutions to support customer formulation development. Shastry joins Arizona Chemical following Shastry successful tenures as the director of R&D at Accupac and Medicia. His prior experiences include positions as manager at the Natural Dentist and as senior scientist at Gillette and Colgate-Palmolive.

• WSL Strategic Retail: named Shilpa Bharne Rosenberry vice

• CPL Aromas: named Angus McJannet international account manager. Based at the company’s UK headquarters, he will be responsible for key international regions that are currently serviced from the UK. Having worked at Firmenich and most recently IFF, McJannet has expertise in developing business in some of the key CPL target markets, according to the company.

• The International Fragrance Association (IFRA): appointed a

McJannet

Tri-K Industries: added two account managers, David Parisi and Amit Ramakrishnan, to its U.S. sales team. Parisi joins Tri-K as account manager for the Southeast with many years experience in the personal care industry. He was previously with Arch Personal Care, where he served as senior technical sales representative for the southern U.S. and Mexico, developing and growing sales in the region. Parisi has also held sales positions with Uniqema and Stepan. The company welcomed Ramakrishnan in the newly created position of associate sales manager for the Midwest, where he will Ramakrishnan Parisi be covering small to medium sized accounts, supplementing the major account coverage provided by Marta LeFave.

•

• Glenn Corporation: appointed Janelle Asumang as an additional Midwest account manager to its growing technical sales force. She will be responsible for covering both the personal care and HI&I markets in Indiana, Ohio and Michigan. With more than a decade of industry experience, Asumang brings both lab and sales know-how to her role at Glenn Corp., 106 • happi

according to the company. Her previous experience includes chemist roles at Great Lakes Chemical Corporation and Volt Technical Resources, and sales roles at Eli Lilly and Company and Chempoint.com.

president, consulting. In this new role, Rosenberry’s responsibilities will be expanded to include managing all consulting clients and overseeing WSL Strategic Retail’s marketing activities. Prior to being named vice president, Rosenberry had been a senior consultant with WSL Strategic Retail since December 2005. She has nearly 15 years of experience in brand strategy, trend research and client counsel and consulting having served as manager of merchandise analysis for Linens ‘N’ Things and senior manager for housewares for Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia. She began her career as a business consultant at Accenture.

new president, Pierre Sivac. A French national, he was educated in both France and the U.S. and is an experienced industry executive having worked for major global companies such as Coty, Unilever and Henkel. Sivac’s recent responsibilities at Coty included Calvin Klein, Cerruti, Chloe, Marc Jacobs and Davidoff. According to IFRA, he is “well placed”to take over from Jean-Pierre Houri, who retired from IFRA at the end of 2010 after five years at the helm.

• Reckitt Benckiser: appointed Liz Doherty as chief financial officer (CFO). Doherty was CFO at Brambles Industries PLC for two years. Prior to Brambles, she was the second in command in the finance function at Tesco PLC where she was group international finance director with additional responsibility for corporate accounts, group tax and treasury. She spent seven years at Tesco PLC, having joined the firm following a 22-year career at Unilever PLC. She has 14 years of international experience having worked in Australia, Spain, the Netherlands and Thailand.

• Innovative Cosmetic Labs (ICL): appointed Michael Robinson as general manager. He brings more than 20 years of professional management experience to ICL. Robinson has extensive experience in retail and direct sales, finance, branch and project management, business development and contract negotiation. For the past six years, he held the position of director of operations for two privately-owned businesses. • Robinson

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January 2011

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Professional Directory Skin and Hair Care Products

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The ideal candidate will be responsible for overall development, qualification, and management of Allegra OTC projects, opportunities, life-cycle management and future Rx to OTC switch projects. The successful candidate will be a hands-on scientist who will innovate, produce working prototypes based on product concept, and lead scale up of lab batches to pilot and production sizes. In addition, the candidate must be able to incorporate the necessary safety/ clinical/regulatory aspects into their projects. The candidate will also be able to translate insights in health sciences into technical opportunities. He/she will demonstrate a high level of technical skill, leadership of people, and project management aptitude. He/she must be a team player who can present technical subjects/health science to others, including marketing. B.S. in Pharmacy, Chemistry or other Healthcare Sciences at a minimum; Pharm D, MS/PhD in Pharmacy or related sciences is preferred (PhD preferred not required; MS required); 10+ years experience in product development with a preferred combination of both Rx and OTC experience and experience with NDAs, formulation experience a must. Experience in allergy product category is preferred, but will consider other similar product categories, such as cough and cold, respiratory health, etc.

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT SCIENTIST/MANAGER Overall Objective of Assignment: The ideal candidate will be responsible for taking the lead in the development, qualification, product formulation and management of new and improved Personal Care products. The specific role will be based on the candidate’s level of experience and knowledge in a certain product design area. The successful candidate will be a hands-on scientist who will innovate, produce working prototypes (based on consumer need and product concept) and lead scale up of lab batches to pilot and production sizes. In addition, the candidates must be able to incorporate the necessary safety/ clinical/regulatory aspects into their projects. The candidate will also be able to translate insights in science related to their projects into technical opportunities. He/she will demonstrate a high level of technical skill, leadership of people and project management aptitude. He/she must be a team player who can translate and present science based material to broad audiences, including marketing. A minimum of a four-year degree (BS/BA) pharmacy, chemistry or other healthcare sciences; Pharm.D, MS/PhD in pharmacy (or related science) is preferred; minimum seven to ten years of product development experience; formulation experience is a must; meaningful understanding of skin, hair care, and/or dermatology sciences. * * * Chattem is a fast-paced, dynamic organization requiring a results and team-oriented style. We offer a very competitive compensation and benefits package, which includes a matching 401(k) plan, major medical, dental and life insurance. Qualified candidates may apply to www.chattemjobs.com to complete the on-line application process. Equal Opportunity Employer M/F/V/H (No phone calls, please)

January 2011

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Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Fax

Website

Ajinomoto ......................................................................54 ......................201-292-3180 ................201-346-5638 ..........................................www.ajichem.com Akzo Nobel ....................................................................5 ......................312-906-7500 ................312-906-7578..........................www.surface.akzonobel.com Arista Industries, Inc. ....................................................35 ....................800-ALL-OILS................203-761-4980 ..............................www.aristaindustries.com BASF................................................................................81 ......................800-880-5768 ..................................................................www.personal-care.basf.com Berjé ................................................................................77 ......................973-748-8980 ................973-680-9618 ..........................................www.berjeinc.com BioScreen Testing Services ......................................Cover 3..................800-229-9057 ................310-214-0526 ........................................www.bioscreen.com Brenntag North America ..............................................42 ......................800-732-0562 ................................................................www.brenntagspecialties.com Celsis Laboratory Group ..............................................99......................800-523-LABS ................................................................................www.celsislabs.com Centerchem, Inc.........................................................Cover 4..................203-822-9800 ................203-822-9810 ....................................www.centerchem.com Chemsil ..........................................................................13 ......................877-700-0302 ................ 818-700-0507 ..........................................www.chemsil.com Clinical Research Labs ..................................................33 ......................732-981-1616 ................732-981-0520..............................................www.crl-inc.com Coast Southwest ............................................................39 ......................800-621-0500 ................714-524-8363 ..............................www.coastsouthwest.com Cognis GmbH ................................................................21 ......................800-531-0815 ................215-628-1450..............................................www.cognis.com Consumer Product Testing, Inc. ....................................53 ......................973-808-7111 ................973-244-7503 ..........................................www.cptclabs.com CPL Aromas ..................................................................71 ......................732-868-8330 ................732-868-8332 ......................................www.cplaromas.com Croda Inc. ......................................................................19 ......................732-417-0800 ................732-417-0804 ........................................www.crodausa.com DS Containers ................................................................15 ......................630-406-9600 ................630-406-1438 ..................................www.dscontainers.com DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ....................................50 ......................800-526-0189 ................973-257-8580 ..........www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com Essex Testing Clinic, Inc. ................................................95 ......................973-857-9541 ................973-857-9662..........................................www.essextest.com Grant Industries, Inc. ......................................................3 ......................201-791-8700 ................201-791-3887 ..........................................www.grantinc.com HBA Global Expo ..........................................................23 ......................212-600-3033 ................212-600-3013 ..........................................www.hbaexpo.com In-Cosmetics/Reed ........................................................27 ....................44 20 8910 7959..............44 20 8910 7926 ................................www.in-cosmetics.com Independent Chemical Corporation ............................10 ......................718-894-0700 ................718-894-9224....................www.independentchemical.com Inolex Chemical Company............................................11 ......................215-271-0800 ................215-271-2621 ..............................................www.inolex.com Jeen International............................................................7 ......................800-771-JEEN ................973-439-1402 ................................................www.jeen.com Lipo Chemicals............................................................24, 25 ..................973-345-8600 ................973-345-8365 ................................www.lipochemicals.com Lonza Inc. ......................................................................29 ......................201-316-9200 ................201-785-9013 ..............................................www.lonza.com Natural Plant Products ................................................57 ......................503-363-6402 ................503-587-8717 ................................www.meadowfoam.com Noveon Consumer Specialties......................................41 ......................800-379-5389 ................216-447-5740 ....................www.personalcare.noveon.com Novozymes North America, Inc. ..................................78 ......................919-494-3000 ................919-494-3415 ..................www.novozymes.com/detergent. Rhodia ..............................................................................9 ......................800-922-2189 ................609-860-0081 ............................www.rhodia-novecare.com RITA Corporation ......................................................Cover 2..................800-426-7759 ................815-337-2522............................................www.ritacorp.com Robertet ..........................................................................75 ......................201-405-1000 ................201-405-2006 ..........................................www.robertet.com Ruger Chemical Co., Inc. ..............................................67 ......................800-274-7843 ................973-926-4921 ................................www.rugerchemical.com SCC Suppliers Day ........................................................31 ......................800-455-0445 ................631-325-8467 ................................................www.nyscc.org Sea-Land Chemical Co. ................................................45 ......................440-871-7887 ..........................................................................www.sealandchem.com Sederma/Croda ..............................................................60 ......................732-692-1652 ................732-417-0804 ..............................................www.sederma.fr Spectra Colors Corp. ......................................................47 ......................800-527-8588 ................800-635-1811 ................................www.SpectraColors.com Takasago..........................................................................72 ......................201-767-9001 ................201-784-7277..........................................www.takasago.com ThermPhos ....................................................................17 ......................877-888-4425 ..............................................................................www.thermphos.com Welch, Holme & Clark Co., Inc. ..................................49 ......................973-465-1200 ................973-465-7332 ........................www.welch-holme-clark.com January 2011

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Photo News

HISSYFIT GIFTS CELEBS AT FIRST AMERICAN COUNTRY AWARDS • Makeup and skin care brand Hissyfit and creative director Reggie Wells gifted celebrities including Laura Bell Bundy, Nancy O’Dell, Hillary Scott and Jennette McCurdy at the American Country Awards gift lounge produced by Backstage Creations at the MGM Grand Garden Arena in Las Vegas. The gift lounge kicked off on Dec. 5, 2010 culminating with the inaugural American Country Awards, which were held the following day. Along with a variety of Hissyfit classics, including Saving Face, Body Double and Handy Work, the brand provided country stars and celebrities with Clockpot, its newest collection that offers highly pigmented colors in silky formulas in an easyto-use palette. “I can’t think of a better venue to debut the new Clockpot, my first major initiative as creative director of Hissyfit,”said Wells.“It’s a week of firsts—the first-of-its-kind Clockpot, the first ever ACAs... It’s a perfect fit!”

Lady Antebellum’s Hillary Scott picked up Hissyfit products along with her four ACA wins.

VB Cosmetics Supports HSUS Cool vs. Cruel Awards • Menswear designer John Bartlett helped get the “fur free” message out at the sixth annual Cool vs. Cruel Awards Ceremony, presented by the Humane Society of the U.S. (HSUS) and The Art Institutes. Cool vs. Cruel challenges art institute students enrolled in fashion programs throughout the U.S. and Canada to creatively reinterpret and replace the animal fur on runway looks by well-known designers. This year’s winners were chosen from among more than 200 entries. Held at the Bowery Hotel in New York on Nov. 17, 2010 VB Cosmetics and Dazzle Dry products were represented in the gift bags handed out to attendees. •

Menswear designer John Bartlett, one of the judges of the Cool vs. Cruel contest, and fellow designer Toby Revis were among the attendees who received gift bags containing VB Cosmetics’ vegan products.

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January 2011

Lipotec, the genuine alliance against expression wrinkles On the forefront of anti-aging technology, Lipotec is committed pioneer in successfully offering solutions to attenuate expression lines through an innovative range of combinable molecular actives that, by independent mechanisms, safely target the muscle contraction.

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