Costa Rica (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

COSTA RICA

RAINFOREST CRAFTS R S EXOTIC FLORA • BIRD BEACHES • NATIONAL PARKS SPORTS • VOLCAN A OES • MAPS THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Costa Rica

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Costa rica Main contributor: Christopher P. Baker

MANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose ART EDITOR Benu Joshi SENIOR EDITOR Rimli Borooah SENIOR DESIGNER Priyanka Thakur EDITOR Ankita Awasthi DESIGNER Shruti Singhi SENIOR CARTOGRAPHER Uma Bhattacharya CARTOGRAPHER Kunal Kumar Singh PICTURE RESEARCHER Taiyaba Khatoon DTP COORDINATOR Shailesh Sharma DTP DESIGNER Vinod Harish MAIN CONTRIBUTOR

Christopher P. Baker PHOTOGRAPHERS

Jon Spaull, Linda Whitwam ILLUSTRATORS

P. Arun, Ashok Sukumaran, T. Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner Reproduced by Colourscan (Singapore) Printed and bound in China by L. Rex Printing Co. Ltd First American Edition 2005 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2008

Copyright © 2005, 2008 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Company ALL RIGHTS RESERVED UNDER INTERNATIONAL AND PAN-AMERICAN COPYRIGHT CONVENTIONS. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED, OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.

Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.

Playa Chiquita, the Caribbean

CONTENTS INTRODUCING COSTA RICA DISCOVERING COSTA RICA 8 PUTTING COSTA RICA ON THE MAP 12 A PORTRAIT OF COSTA RICA 14 COSTA RICA THROUGH THE YEAR 34 THE HISTORY OF COSTA RICA 40

A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

ISSN 1542 1554 ISBN 978-0-75661-352-5 Front cover main image: Nicoya Peninsula, Tortuga Island, Costa Rica The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Tropical rainforest in Parque Nacional Corcovado, Peninsula de Osa

A performance of traditional dance near Cartago

THE NORTHERN ZONE 144 THE CARIBBEAN 160

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 256

THE SOUTHERN ZONE 174

TRAVEL INFORMATION 264

TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

GENERAL INDEX 272

WHERE TO STAY 196

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 284

WHERE TO EAT 220

COSTA RICA AREA BY AREA

SURVIVAL GUIDE

PHRASE BOOK 286

SHOPPING IN COSTA RICA 238

COSTA RICA AT A GLANCE 50 SAN JOSÉ 52 THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 80 THE CENTRAL PACIFIC AND SOUTHERN NICOYA 106 GUANACASTE AND NORTHERN NICOYA 120

Traditional carved and painted Bribri gourd

ENTERTAINMENT IN COSTA RICA 244 OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIALTY VACATIONS 248

Fresh produce at the Santa Cruz market, Guanacaste

Exquisite orchid

Teatro Nacional (see pp60–61)

Introducing Costa Rica

DISCOVERING COSTA RICA 8–11 PUTTING COSTA RICA ON THE MAP 12–13 A PORTRAIT OF COSTA RICA 14–33 COSTA RICA THROUGH THE YEAR 34–39 THE HISTORY OF COSTA RICA 40–47

8

I N T R O D U C I N G

C O S T A

R I C A

D I S C O V E R I N G C O S TA R I C A osta Rica can be divided Nicoya are framed by volcanoes and, into seven regions, corresto the west, by gorgeous beaches. ponding to well-defined Northward, the land slopes down geographic criteria. The capital, to the sprawling lowlands of the Northern Zone. The Caribbean’s San José, occupies a broad valley coastal plains are unique for enfolded by the mountains of the Central Highlands. The Central their African culture and Pacific and Southern Nicoya Macaw made endless beaches, while the region is a transition zone of wood rugged Southern Zone is between a dry ecosystem and a covered in dense rainforest. Below is humid one. To the northwest, the dry an overview of the distinctive plains of Guanacaste and Northern highlights of each region.

C

and shop for quality arts and crafts – the Centro Comercial El Pueblo (see p241) is recommended. San José has many gourmet dining options. Take your pick from fine restaurants that span the globe. La Cocina de Leña (see p224) offers great traditional Costa Rican cuisine, with an ambience to match. Centro Costarricense de Ciencias y Cultura, San José

SAN JOSÉ • Fascinating museums • Teatro Nacional • Top-notch dining • Splendid shopping

A large, bustling conurbation with few historical buildings, San José does not have many sights of interests: two days are sufficient for exploring the city. Most attractions are concentrated downtown within walking distance of one another in the compact city core. With fine hotels for every budget, the city center is easily accessed on foot, while the taxi system proves efficient. Some localities can be dangerous (see p270), but police patrol the tourist areas. One day should be spent concentrating on San José’s Museo del Oro (see pp62–3) and Museo de Jade (see p67), as well as the Teatro Nacional (see pp60–61), Costa Rica’s Neoclassical architectural gem. The Mercado Central and Edificio de

Correos (see pp58–9) are close at hand. The small squares that anchor the city core can also be taken in. Day two should be given to the Museo Nacional and Parque Nacional (see p70), and to exploring Barrio Amón (see p67) and the Centro Costarricense de Ciencias y Cultura (see pp72–3). If time

remains, check out the artwork at the Museo de Arte Costarricense (see p74)

THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS • Scenic journeys • Drive-up volcanoes • Exhilarating whitewater rafting • Charming country inns

With its fabulous scenery, charming towns, and colonial churches, the Central Highlands region is tailor-made for scenic drives. It offers delightful touring through coffee fincas (farms) and

Rafting down one of the rivers in the Central Highlands

Ceramic wall mural in San José’s Barrio Amón created by local artist Fernando Matamoros

D I S C O V E R I N G

lush valleys, culminating atop towering volcanoes. Two active volcanoes are accessed by paved roads that lead through lush cloud forest to the crater rims. Encompassed within Poás and Irazú National Parks (see p90 and p103), these volcanoes offer superb opportunities for hiking and birding, as do relatively hard-to-access Turrialba National Park (see p103) and the rugged trails of Braulio Carrillo and Tapantí-Macizo National Parks (see p91 and p101). Wildlife is also displayed at several sights near Alajuela (see p84). Particularly recommended are the Butterfly Farm, Zoo Ave (see p84), INBioparque (see p92) and the World of Snakes (see p86). Heredia (see p92) makes a good base for exploring the coffee country, including a visit to the Doka Estate and Café Britt (see p90 and p92) to see how Costa Rica’s splendid coffees are produced. Sarchí (see p86) – a must-visit center of crafts – lies along an exquisite drive taking in Grecia (see p86) and Zarcero (see p87), known for their metal church and topiary respectively. Some of the best scenery lies along the Route of the Saints (see p97), while east from San José, a separate drive leads through the Orosi Valley (see p98), revealing some fine colonial churches. Nearby, Turrialba (see p101) is a gateway to Monumento Nacional Guayabo (see pp104–105),

the nation’s foremost pre-

Picturesque terraced farmland in the Central Highlands

C O S T A

R I C A

The blue expanse of the Gulf of Nicoya

Columbian site, and also a base for exciting rafting on the Reventazón and Pacuare Rivers (see p102). Four days should prove sufficient, although a week would be required to explore in-depth. Convoluted roads and lack of road signs can make for frustrating touring. However, a large choice of appealing boutique hotels, some set amid coffee estates, makes up for this. THE CENTRAL PACIFIC AND SOUTHERN NICOYA • Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio • Incredible surfing • Relaxing Isla Tortuga • Thrilling crocodile safaris

With two of the nation’s most popular and easily accessed national parks, and a fistful of other coastal wildlife reserves, this region appeals most strongly to wildlife lovers. Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú (see p110) and Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco (see p112), both compact reserves along the shores of Southern Nicoya, offer diverse habitats and a plethora of wildlife. Isla

Tortuga (see p111), offshore

from Curú, is an idyllic escape that plays host to boat excursions departing the port town Puntarenas. Youthful travelers are drawn to the tiny community of Montezuma and the surfers’ haven of Malpaís (see p112), which enjoy spectacular settings along rugged shorelines. Popular with surfers, the beach resort town of Jacó (see p114) boasts casinos, nightclubs, and a range of hotels. Immediately north, Parque Nacional Carara (see p114) extends inland from the coastal highway. Excursions, including crocodile safaris on Rio Tárcoles (see p115), are offered from Jacó. Explore the forests of the rugged coastal mountains at the Rainmaker Conservation Project (see p115). Most travelers in this region head for the Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

(see pp118–19), accessed via the sportfishing town of Quepos (see p116). This lovely park combines superb beaches with a coral reef, fabulous wildlife viewing along easily accessed trails, and some of the finest hotels in the country.

9

10

I N T R O D U C I N G

C O S T A

R I C A

Tropical dry forest in Guanacaste’s Parque Nacional Palo Verde, which boasts diverse habitats

GUANACASTE AND NORTHERN NICOYA • Scintillating beaches • Exciting horseback rides • Mysterious cloud forests • Rare dry forest reserves

The most diverse of Costa Rica’s regions combines montane cloud forests and lowland dry forests – both full of wildlife – with lovely beaches. At least one week is needed to explore this region, with two weeks required for a full tour. The key destinations are connected by regional air services. Exploring is easy overland, with main sights accessed by spur roads that branch off the Pan-American Highway. However, a 4WD is recommended, not least to reach Monteverde (see pp124–8), acclaimed for its cloud forest reserves. Farther north, Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja (see p132) offers spectacular hiking, as well as horseback riding and mountain biking at ranches that double as rustic hotels. Situated on the slopes of Volcán Orosi, Parque Nacional Santa Rosa (see pp134–5) is a dry forest reserve where wildlife is easily seen. Although not as accessible as some other parks, Santa Rosa is well worth the effort. In contrast,

of Guaitíl (see p143). The Nicoya Peninsula is known for its profusion of beaches. Playas del Coco and Flamingo (see p136) have great scuba diving and sportfishing. Tamarindo (see p136) is the most developed resort, while nesting marine turtles can be spotted at Playa Grande (see p136) and Ostional (see p140). THE NORTHERN ZONE

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal (see p149), and offers

several dozen lodges, most with vistas of the soaring volcano that erupts almost daily. Activities such as spelunking in the Cavernas de Venado and superb birding at Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro

• Volcán Arenal • Active adventures • Fabulous bird-watching • Centro Neotrópico SarapiquíS

With Costa Rica’s most active volcano, an A–Z of active adventures, and a choice of nature lodges and rewarding birding, the Northern Zone is a booming latecomer to the tourist scene. The attractions

(see p154) lie close at hand. Soaking in the thermal waters at Tabacón (see p148) is a great experience, as is a ride on the Arenal Aerial Tram (see p149), which combines excitement with grand views of both the volcano and of Lake Arenal (see pp150–52), popular with windsurfers and anglers. Farther east, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí (see p156) is a departure point for nature excursions on the Sarapiquí and San Juan Rivers. A short distance away are eminent rainforest reserves such as Selva Verde (see p156), Rara Avis (see p159), and Tirimbina (see p155). Adjoining Tirimbina is an excellent educational facility, Centro Neotrópico SarapiquíS

Parque Nacional Palo Verde

(see p130) has wetlands unrivaled for birding. Chorotega Indian traditions live on in the potters’ hamlet

are concentrated in two distinct regions centered on the towns of La Fortuna and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. Bustling La Fortuna (see p148) is the gateway to

Tabacón Hot Springs Resort and Spa, Northern Zone

(see p155), which is dedicated to a celebration of pre-Columbian and contemporary indigenous cultures. Heavy rainfall is possible at any time of year. A 4WD is essential for successful touring. Local airlines fly to La Fortuna.

D I S C O V E R I N G

C O S T A

R I C A

11

THE CARIBBEAN • Wildlife-rich Parque Nacional Tortuguero • Afro-Caribbean culture • Close-up turtle-viewing • World-class sportfishing

The Caribbean offers three of Costa Rica’s premier rainforest reserves, plus splendid sportfishing and a uniquely laid-back ambience deriving from its Afro-Caribbean culture. The heritage is most colorfully alive in the village of Cahuita (see p170), where spicy Caribbean dishes are served at rough-hewn restaurants that reverberate to the sounds of Bob Marley. Steps away is Parque Nacional Cahuita (see p170), with trails that include a snorkeling trail. Farther south, Puerto Viejo (see p172) appeals to lovers of surf and an offbeat lifestyle. Its beaches unfurl southward, culminating in

Mangrove swamp at Puerto Jiménez, southern Costa Rica

A minimum three-day stay is suggested – longer if you wish to combine Tortuguero with Cahuita and Puerto Viejo. Drawbacks to the area include the heavy year-round rainfall. Be aware that drugs are a problem in coastal communities, and you may find that locals exhibit, at times, a surliness not found elsewhere in Costa Rica.

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo

(see p172), good for hikes, turtle-watching, and trips in search of dolphins and manatees. Excursions inland provide an opportunity to learn about the lifestyles of indigenous communities (see p173). The highlight of any Caribbean itinerary is a visit to Parque Nacional Tortuguero (see p167), where exploring by boat unveils a rainforest menagerie unsurpassed in the nation.

THE SOUTHERN ZONE • Parque Nacional Corcovado • Intriguing indigenous reserves • Challenging hiking • Unsurpassed scubas diving

Encompassing Costa Rica’s premier rainforests and most rugged mountains, this region, with its exceedingly diverse

terrain, requires a 4WD for travelers exploring on their own. Come prepared for high humidity and heavy rain. Inland, the Talamancas offer a challenge to hikers. While well-developed trails lead to the summit of Cerro Chirripó (see p181) from San Gerardo de Rivas (see p178), access into the more remote portions of the mountains to the south is along seldom-trodden trails within Parque Internacional La Amistad (see p179). Farther south is Las Cruces Biological Station (see p179), a superb destination for birders and individuals with a botanical interest. Nearby, a number of indigenous reserves are opening up to the tourist trade (see p184). The rugged coast is known for high surf and some splendid diving. Dominical and Zancudo (see p182 and p192) are popular surfing beaches, while Parque Nacional Marino Ballena (see p182) has fine whale-watching possibilities. Whale- and dolphin-viewing boat excursions are popular from Bahía Drake (see p190), where many lodges specialize in scuba diving. The big draw is Parque Nacional Corcovado

Beachgoers at Parque Nacional Cahuita in the Caribbean

(see p191), which offers hiking and superb wildlifeviewing. Linked by watertaxi to the sportfishing town of Golfito (see p192), Puerto Jiménez (see p190) is the gateway to Corcovado. To the southwest is the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Isla del Coco (see p193).

"

INTkODlJCING

COSTA

RICA

Putting Costa Rica on the Map WaslK�1 by the w;dcrs of the Carjblx�m &:1 and I',K'ifk Oc(.,m, the republic bf Cost;. Il.it':l lil'S wholly wilhin (h.., tropics, lx:twc..:n 8 :md 11 dcgl1:Cs nonh of the Equator. llordert:d by Nicamgu:1 to the north ;md 1:lpocring gradually southward \0 I',ln:mu, il covcrs 19.650 sq miles (;0,900 sq km). Much of this ...�tn.:mdy mountainous cOllmry is uninhabited and overlaid with �n�r:ll type.� of tropical forest; almost one-third of the bnd are;1 is PmlC with .some ';50,000 people living in the tapilal, S:m .lost.

lA GO OE NICARAGUA

�:��1'��i:.�"����'�;-:: :2 �:�k(

•

, , ,

, ,

PACIFIC/OCEAN A�rial "';'w of u...