Arrive Magazine May June 2008

Providing Strategic Growth Solutions For Businesses Selected Recent Transactions The Gichner Management Team in conjunc...

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Providing Strategic Growth Solutions For Businesses Selected Recent Transactions The Gichner Management Team in conjunction with Altus Capital Partners and Dunrath Capital has acquired

Harleysville Mutual Insurance Company has announced its intention to amend the intercompany pooling agreement with stock subsidiaries of Harleysville Group, Inc.

has modified a majority of its outstanding senior term notes to provide it with the flexibility to pursue capital expansion projects

has merged with

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor and provided a fairness opinion to Harleysville Mutual Insurance Company

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to East Penn Manufacturing Company, Inc.

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Community Banks, Inc.

and related subsidiaries

was provided automobile floor plan financing, term debt, real estate financing and working capital availability

from a subsidiary of Dominion Resources, Inc. (NYSE: D)

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to The Gichner Management Team

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Thomas Automotive Family of Dealerships

The Management Team of Realpoint has acquired

has acquired has sold certain branches to

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to The Realpoint Management Team

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to PSB Bancorp, Inc.

Wholesale Mortgage Operation

Manufacturer of Compressed Air Treatment Equipment

has been acquired by

has acquired West Chester Capital Advisors

from Capmark Investments, L.P.

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Fleetwood Bank

private placement of common stock

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to AmeriServ Financial, Inc.

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to MedAvante

was provided growth capital by

has acquired

Owner/operator of commercial marine shipyards



Fulton Bancshares Corporation Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to National Penn Bancshares

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to ZEKS Air Drier Corp.

Educators Mutual Life Insurance Company

7,450,000 Shares

has acquired

Common Stock – Price $10.00 per share

in connection with its conversion from mutual to stock form

Shares were sold in connection with the conversion of Educators Mutual Life Insurance Company and simultaneous acquisition of Eastern Holding Company, Ltd.

Griffin initiated this transaction and served as exclusive financial advisor to Eastern Holding Company, Ltd.

Developer of Telecommunications Software Solutions

was provided preferred equity growth capital by

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Telesciences, Inc.

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Eastern Holding Company, Ltd.

Griffin Holdings Group LLC* served as financial advisor to Atlantic Marine Holding Company

Third-party acquisition of 10 Federated/May store locations with simultaneous leases to Boscov’s

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Bucks County Coffee Company

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Fulton Bancshares Corporation

has acquired

Sale of credit card business to HSBC and related matters

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor and arranged this financing for Boscov’s

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Legacy Bank

and its shareholders have completed an intra-family transfer of ownership as a result of a strategic alternatives study and a leveraged recapitalization

$370 million senior revolver to refinance its existing facility and provide a portion of the funding for a recapitalization $55 million Junior Secured Term Loan B to provide funding for a recapitalization

has acquired

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Boscov’s and its shareholders

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor and arranged this financing for Boscov’s

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Harleysville National Corporation

Griffin served as financial advisor to Boscov’s

and related entities Manufacturer of Reinforced Hose Machines

have been acquired by an affiliate of

Griffin served as exclusive financial advisor to Magnatech International, L.P. and related entities

Joseph M. Harenza CEO and Senior Managing Director 610-478-2160 z [email protected]

Samuel A. McCullough Chairman, Griffin Holdings Group 610-478-2151 z [email protected] John A. Lee Senior Managing Director 610-205-6106 z [email protected]

* Griffin Holdings Group LLC owns Griffin Financial Group LLC

www.go2griffin.com

MEMBER FINRA I MEMBER SIPC

Contents may/june 2008

ARRIVEMAGAZINE.COM

The Garden State is home to more than just the Nets, Bruce Springsteen and Tony Soprano.

FEATURES

PAGE 42

“We wanted every word and nuance to be real and to mean something.”

34

— page 34

42

2 Arrıve • May/June 2008 • AMTRAK.COM

The Funnyman Cometh With the lead role in a new movie and a stand-up tour of the States, Ricky Gervais—the king of discomfort comedy—wants to be an American star.

Garden State With bird-watching and woodland treks galore, New Jersey offers visitors an unexpectedly close-to-the-earth experience.

COVER: PETER MURPHY

Refresh your senses A new Westin means a new you. Join us at The Westin Baltimore Washington Airport hotel and feel what it’s like to start fresh. t.JOVUFTGSPN%PXOUPXO#BMUJNPSFBOEUIF Inner Harbor tIPVSDPNQMJNFOUBSZTIVUUMFTFSWJDFUPBOE from the hotel, train station and airport t TRVBSFGFFUPGGMFYJCMFGVODUJPOTQBDF 'PSNPSFJOGPSNBUJPOPSUPNBLFBSFTFSWBUJPO QMFBTFWJTJUXXXXFTUJODPNCXJBSSJWF PSDBMM UPMMGSFF

© 2007 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All rights reserved. Westin is the registered trademark of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

Belong

Laughter is invited. The new Sheraton makes it easy to get together with the people who are important to you. Share your mornings with breakfast on the house, and take advantage of a late checkout to linger and make the most of the weekend. You don’t just stay here, you belong. Book today at www.sheraton.com/arrivebwi , or call 1-866-449-4382 for more information.

© 2007 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All rights reserved. Sheraton is the registered trademark of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. or its affiliates.

Contents may/june 2008

ARRIVEMAGAZINE.COM

DEPARTMENTS

ALL ABOARD

8 National Train Day DETOUR

22 Matter of Course

“We thought knowing where the bull came from was good, but knowing the guys that feed him—it turned out to be great.” — page 66

Arrive tees off in search of some grand greens. ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

26 Summer Stages

The best way to enjoy the warmest season is to be outside, surrounded by music. BUSINESS CLASS

30 New Radicals Do technology and humanity have to be mutually exclusive? CAFÉ CHATTER

66 From the Source Chefs search near, far and wide for only the freshest ingredients. COCKTAIL

74 Wither Without the Vine These crisp, refreshing wines will help you keep your cool when it comes time to beat the summer heat. FINAL STOP

92 Why I Love ...

the Adirondacks Rachael Ray explains why New York’s classic upstate retreat is the perfect 36-hour getaway. Contributors, page 6 • Puzzles, page 90 Station/Route maps, page 88


11

53

80

FIRST CLASS

CITY GUIDE

UP TO SPEED

Al Roker presides over inaugural National Train Day • Get your Flybrary here • Tech-stravaganza • Must-have MotoArt • Living life on the B list • Crazy about socks • Shelf esteem • Trendsetting artist Tim Ward • Don’t live without a Liveboard • Around the world with Five Accessories ...

Yeah, it’s Preakness time again! • Hong Kong Dragon Boat Festival • Coney Island’s Mermaid Parade • 2,500 pounds of fudge in Philly • Rittenhouse Square flower market • WaterFire is upon us • A mile of abolitionist history • Kabul comes to D.C. • Itzhak Perlman strings us along ...

Philadanco, baby • Map quest • Who’s this year’s best Hon? • Living history in Vermont • Wilmington’s grand prix • Movin’ with Martha Graham • Africa meets Newark • See your Gypsy with Patti LuPone • Brett Weston’s golden eye • Provincetown’s International Flm Festival ...

The only thing more amazing than our body’s ability to heal itself is our capacity to heal each other.

The new National Burn Reconstruction Center at Good Samaritan Hospital. Dr. Robert Spence, Director. Now there is one resource patients with burn injuries can turn to for physical and emotional healing. The center is led by Dr. Robert Spence, one of the nation’s leading burn plastic surgeons and a pioneer in the field of burn reconstruction. Here, every patient’s care is managed by a dedicated coordinator, and a team of specially trained physical and occupational therapists. This ensures personal support and a focused care plan, so each patient can find the strength to heal. For more information, please call 866-412-2876 or visit goodsam-md.org/burnrehab.

YAN K

PE D R LE D

EE

Superb Downtown waterfront location

Enjoy spacious lofts with outstanding views of New England’s most popular waterfront playground. Christie’s Landing, Newport, RI

800.427.9444

Rediscover

Historic Newport Call for great mid-week packages

CONTRIBUTORS

Mark Follman

Monica Bhide

Mark Follman, a writer and editor in San Francisco, has covered politics and arts & entertainment for more than a decade. His work has appeared in publications including Salon, Rolling Stone, Der Spiegel and the Toronto Star. He profiled former Secretary of State Colin Powell for a recent issue of Arrive.

Monica Bhide writes about food and culture, and her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, Cooking Light and The Washington Post. She is currently at work on her third book of essays and recipes, which Simon & Schuster will publish next year.

Serge Bloch

Peter Murphy

Serge Bloch is a Frenchborn illustrator who currently makes his home in New York City. Bloch has contributed to numerous publications in the United States and France, including The New York Times, Wall Street Journal and Le Monde. He also writes and illustrates children’s books.

Peter Murphy has photographed for Time, Wired, GQ, The New York Times and other publications. For this issue of Arrive, he photographed Ricky Gervais on a film set in Brooklyn. Murphy had less than 7 minutes to capture his subject— he has the time-stamps on his digital photos to prove it.

JAILHOUSE INN Walk to everything from this historic landmark

Being so close to the harbor, you are in the heart of the activity surrounding Newport's greatest attraction. 13 Marlborough Street, Newport RI

800.427.9444 HistoricInnsofNewport.com


Your ticket to: rewards you’ll actually enjoy using

5,000 bonus points after first purchase No annual fee 2 points per $1 spent on Amtrak® purchases 1 point per $1 spent on purchases everywhere else Low intro APR

Apply for the new Amtrak Guest Rewards® World MasterCard® at amtrakguestrewardscreditcard.com or call 1-888-58-AMTRAK.

Subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. For pricing and rewards details please visit amtrakguestrewardscreditcard.com. Amtrak Guest Rewards credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. and may be serviced by its affiliates.

All Aboard

Celebrate National Train Day, May 10 The spring and summer seasons present our engineering crews with a full schedule of maintenance activities and capital improvements on our Northeast Corridor infrastructure. This summer will be a particularly exciting one. In June we inaugurate a brand-new span on the Amtrak-owned Thames River Bridge, located between New London and Groton, Conn. The 90-year-old bridge will get a new vertical lift span, which—rather than tilting to open— elevates between two lift towers to allow marine traffic to pass. The multiyear project will improve the reliability of the bridge, which has been prone to operating failures, resulting in train delays. The project will take four days while we float the counterweights and the span to the bridge on a barge and complete the installation. Accordingly, Saturday, June 14, through Tuesday, June 17, the bridge will be closed to rail traffic. While work on the bridge proceeds, our engineering crews also will complete several key projects along the route from New Haven to Boston—in just four days. This rail outage will enable us to make investments that will significantly improve the reliability of the railroad and provide passengers with a smoother ride. The completed work also will minimize the chance of future disruptions due to track outages imposed during normal maintenance operations. It’s a unique opportunity to have four straight days to conduct an around-the-clock maintenance blitz. And although there are longterm benefits for our passengers, some customers may be inconvenienced in the short term by


cancellations and adjusted schedules. Visit Amtrak.com or check with Amtrak personnel for schedule information. We’re making investments in the railroad because nearly 26 million Americans choose Amtrak. You may have heard more people talk about Amtrak recently, because of a major initiative designed to generate more awareness of rail travel. This series of events, promotions and advertising campaigns culminates in the firstever National Train Day on May 10, with musical and entertainment acts in Washington, D.C., New York City, Chicago and Los Angeles. Last year marked our fifth consecutive year of record ridership, as more Americans choose a hasslefree, energy-efficient, comfortable and convenient way to travel. We’re sponsoring National Train Day to thank our passengers and to invite more people to see what the fuss is all about. Please let our onboard crew know if we can do anything to make your trip with us today more pleasant, and thank you for choosing Amtrak. Sincerely,

Alex Kummant President and Chief Executive Officer

WILLIAM M. LEAK JR.

MAY/JUNE 2008 • ARRIVEMAGAZINE.COM

AMTRAK.COM

Amtrak Editorial Board David Lim, R. Clifford Black, Gail Reisman, Marlon Sharpe, Deborah Varnado President and Chief Executive Officer Alexander Kummant Washington Union Station 60 Massachusetts Avenue, N.E. Washington, DC 20002

MCMURRY.COM

PUBLISHING

President/Custom Media: Fred Petrovsky VP/Creative Director: Beth Tomkiw VP/Strategic Marketing: Heather Burgett Executive Editor: Leigh Flayton Senior Editor: Jeff Ficker First Class Editor: Andrea Decker Design Director: Marc Oxborrow Art Director: Tamara Kopper VP/Production: Dan Brenner Postal Affairs & Logistics Director: Joseph Abeyta Prep Specialist: Jodi Bafundo Imaging Specialist: Dane Nordine Editorial inquiries: leigh.fl[email protected] ADVERTISING

Publisher Matthew Chervin McMurry 28 W. 44th St., 16th Floor New York, NY 10036 646-429-1625 • Fax: 646-417-5834 [email protected] Associate Publisher Soliteir Jaeger 888-626-8779 • [email protected] Advertising Directors Andrew Stover Washington/Baltimore/Philadelphia Mobile: 202-423-3705 [email protected] Suzanne Kradel 717-652-4564 • [email protected] Custom publishing inquiries Erin Zilis 888-626-8779 • [email protected] Copyright ©2008 by National Railroad Passenger Corporation (NRPC). All rights reserved. Amtrak, Acela and Arrive are registered service marks of the National Railroad Passenger Corporation. Arrive is published by McMurry. Send editorial comments to McMurry, McMurry Campus Center, 1010 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85014. Unsolicited material must be accompanied by SASE. This publication may not be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means without the prior written permission. Requests should be sent to McMurry, McMurry Campus Center, 1010 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85014.

Printed on recycled paper containing 10% post-consumer waste

AMTRAK.COM

• May/June 2008 • Arrıve

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First Class T R A V E L T O O L S , G R E AT G A D G E T S & C O O L S T U F F T O D O

AL ABOARD America’s Favorite Weatherman and America’s Game team up to celebrate America’s favorite way to travel on National Train Day There’s a new holiday on the books! Amtrak has designated May 10 the first-ever National Train Day, and America’s Favorite Weatherman, Al Roker, is its enthusiastic spokesman. “Earlier this winter I had to get from New York to Boston,” Roker recalls. “The weather was bad, but I had to get there. The only one who could get me there was Amtrak—and I loved the experience!” The date, May 10, is deliberate: It’s the anniversary of the completion of the first transcontinental railroad at Promontory Point, Utah, in 1869, when the East and West coasts were connected for the first time by rail. continued on page 12

Wheel of Fortune celebrates National Train Day.

ROKER: ERIN PATRICE O’BRIEN • TRAIN: CAROL KAELSON

AMTRAK.COM


11

First Class

High Style Carlos Rosado from Addison, Ill., and his brother, Ruben, from Cicero, Ill., won Amtrak’s Glacier Park tour package on Wheel of Fortune.

AL ABOARD continued from page 11 Events that celebrate the history of railroads while looking ahead to the future of train travel will fill the weeks leading up to National Train Day. The festivities come at a time when trains have never been more popular. Commuters and wanderlusters are choosing the rails at ever higher numbers, and it’s no wonder why. Traveling by train is convenient, romantic and “green”: Wherever you’re headed, going by train contributes less per passenger mile to greenhouse gases than driving a car or flying on an airplane. Supporting National Train Day is another beloved American institution: Wheel of Fortune. Signature icons including Pat Sajak, Vanna White and the famous wheel will grace both sides of an Amtrak railcar operating on the Hiawatha Service trains between Chicago and Milwaukee. Contestants on Wheel will “buy a vowel” in the hopes of winning F_BULOUS *_MTR_K * V_C_TIONS.


As a little boy, you loved to play with toy airplanes. But these days it’s not as socially acceptable to run around the yard holding up a plastic B-52 bomber. Incorporate your love of flying machines a bit more subtly with MotoArt furniture. MotoArt rescues out-ofcommission airplane parts and transforms them into stunning centerpieces for your home or office. This sleek desk below is made from the flap of a Fairchild C-119 aircraft. As you can imagine, only a certain number of each piece of aviation art are made. Also shown here are the B-52 mirror, a 36” turbine coated in reflective silver to frame a 20” mirror with your choice of colored backlight, and the MK-84 AquaBomb, a tail fin assembly topped with a complete fish tank (fish not included) and domed cap.

Born from jets: MotoArt artist Donovan Fell III made his first propeller art in the 1990s, but his fascination with aviation and its associated parts began during his childhood in the 1950s.

motoart.com

WHEEL OF FORTUNE: CAROL KAELSON

Create your own story at www.canada.travel

First Class DASH EXPRESS The first GPS capable of wirelessly interfacing with peers to transmit real-time traffic updates, locate map data and offer Internet-powered searches for places of interest.

TECH-STRAVAGANZA With a reputation for debuting knockout technological innovations like the VCR and the DVD, the annual Consumer Electronics Show is a gadget freak’s dream, bringing 130,000-plus geeks together to witness the public unveiling of more than 20,000 gizmos. This year, watchwords included convergence, accessibility and aesthetics as newfangled hardware like ultraslim TVs, mobile Internet devices, home media extenders and interconnected portable navigation systems took center stage. The good news: Despite ballooning price tags, today’s shiny new toys aren’t just for show—more and more are offering beginner-friendly controls and practical everyday applications. Here are four favorites worth keeping in mind (sorry—in memory bank).

$599.99 + $9.99–$12.99/month • dash.net

EYE-FI Most 2 GB SD memory cards provide excellent file storage— this one also connects to WiFi hotspots and automatically uploads digital snapshots to PCs or online photo galleries. $99.99 • eye.fi

4 Night Getaway in Niagara Falls, Canada $1,000 in Spending Money and Free Attraction Passes or One of SIX 2 Night Getaways $500 in Spending Money and Free Attraction Passes

F O R M O R E D E TA I L S A N D T O E N T E R O N L I N E G O T O f a l l s t v. c a 14 Arrıve • May/June 2008 • AMTRAK.COM

SQUEEZEBOX DUET Cost-effectively stream high-quality digital audio from the Internet or PC to speakers throughout the home, using a scroll wheel and a 2.4-inch color LCD–equipped remote. $399.99 • logitech.com

CLOUDBOOK A miniature, wallet-friendly laptop sporting 802.11b/g wireless access, a 30 GB hard drive, 5-hour battery life and a 7-inch 800 x 480 display. Road warriors, take note. $399.99 • everex.com

Five Diamond Dining

ByWard Market

National Gallery of Canada

y e t un s p o i l e d Landmark capital sights, cultural treasures and celebrations, a beautiful natural setting, all wrapped up in a relaxed urban vibe. Escape to Ottawa, Canada’s exceptional Capital this spring and summer, for a truly unique city getaway that’s just 1 1/2 hours away by air. Visit online or call for hotel and getaway packages including culture, spa/dining, active outdoors, and more.

1-888-OTTAWA-8

WWW.OTTAWATOURISM.CA

AMTRAK.COM


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First Class

POWER TO THE PEOPLE Graduation day’s here and Junior’s off to enjoy one last summer fling in Paris. (Or Paraguay … hello, Peace Corps.) Promote world harmony with Voltaic Systems’ stylish energy-generating backpacks and messenger gs bags, a globetrotting Voltaic bae are mad iPod owner’s best ed cl from recy friend. Compatible fabrics. with cell phones, MP3 players, laptops and digicams, built-in solar panels convert an hour’s sunlight into 1.5 to 3 times more talk time or tunes. Bonus: As parting gifts go, it sure beats a sackful of voltage adapters. $199–$599 • voltaicsystems.com

Life on the B List A home theater wouldn’t be complete without an impressive DVD collection—and yours is top-notch, with blockbuster after blockbuster. But admit it: If we peeked behind the Die Hard tetralogy, we’d find your stash, right? No, not that stash (we know that’s under your bed). We’re talking about your stash of bad movies—you know, Attack of the Killer Tomatoes, Babes in Toyland and The Fly. You can’t help but


love them. And your bad taste is in good company. There are plenty of people just like you who enjoy B movies. Connect with them at badmovies.org. The site offers bad-movie reviews and recommendations, a forum where enthusiasts can chat and read interviews with people who worked on such B movies as Bikini Drive-In and The Pit. Not sure if your favorite flicks are “bad”? The site lists criteria to measure against, including whether the title is a made-up word, the cover is a hologram, or the lead actor used to be a professional wrestler.

ILLUSTRATION: JESSICA HISCHE

feel four centuries of history come alive in Québec City For more info, visit www.quebecregion.com/happy-s8 or call 1 877 BONJOUR, ext. 656

First Class

THREEFOR-ALL You take your keys, wallet and cell phone everywhere. And although you occasionally misplace them, they typically turn up after a bit of looking. So how is it that a sock that’s traveled only 10 feet from your bedroom to the laundry room can get lost forever? We’ve all acquired at least a few in our lives—widowed socks never to be reunited with their mates. They occupy space in the top drawer of your dresser for months— maybe years—until finally you toss them away and feel guilty about throwing out perfectly good socks. Beat the Bermuda Triangle that is your dryer at its own game with Throx—socks that are sold in threes. Starting out with a trio of toe warmers means you’ll be less likely to end up with a drawer full of singletons. Throx comes in a variety of colors and patterns. Order them at throx.com for $9 a pair, er, a trio.


Europe ande Canada ar two places e tiv with no nao. bambo

Give Her the World You know mothers. You can go to the ends of the earth to find the right Mother’s Day present, but she’d be happy with macaroni glued to a plate. Even though she says she doesn’t need anything, you still want to get her a little something to make her stand out and feel good. The people at online store Five Accessories have done the endsof-the-earth part for you, importing handbags and accessories from Bali, Guatemala, Honduras and Brazil that won’t look like what those other people got at the mall. And your selfless mother can feel good about these gifts because $5 from the sale of each handbag and 15 percent of all other sales go to philanthropic causes local to the artisans themselves. For example, while toting around this fully lined bamboo-slat

handbag (shown here: large Sayan in Night, dark brown lining, $35), your mother can enjoy knowing that she’s helping support schoolchildren in Bali. Or, by wearing a delicate sterling silver necklace by designer Denise Disharoon, she’s supporting CARE and fighting global poverty. fiveaccessories.com

Giving has never felt so great! Find more gift ideas you can feel good about at arrivemagazine.com

MIKE TAFT

First Class

SHELF ESTEEM Whether you like adventure novels, self-help guides or books on business, bear with us while we go a little existential. Books typically go on a shelf. But what if the books themselves could be the shelf?

Ward’ 2006 “Scrsat Self-Portrai ch t”

TRENDSETTER

Tim Ward Brush with Fame The flybrary bookshelf from Umbra ($26.50) is the perfect solution for all those hardbacks you have lying around. Instead of taking up space, they create a shelf to put more stuff on. Books would be the obvious choice to store on top, or set the mood in your home office with a candle. (Just make sure they’re dripless. We don’t want to be responsible for any book burning.) umbra.com


Painter Tim Ward is making a name for himself in the art world the oldfashioned way—by hoofing it. Eschewing the gallery route, he’s opted instead for shows at friends’ homes, and as a result he’s built an international clientele, with commissions coming from clients in the U.S., Ireland and Sweden. But it’s happened somewhat by accident. “It wasn’t a particularly conscious decision,” he says. “A friend got a new place and we put on a show at his house. All these people turned up, really liking it. I sold a few things. Ever since then I’ve gone that way.” Ward works in several media, including 3-D and drawings, and he recently completed a series of paintings about “the beauty of the Arctic,” he says, “and the predicament mankind faces as it slowly melts away.” Fortunately, Ward is no stranger to attention. After studying painting in art school, the English native became the lead singer of a London-based band

called Elevate—but only because his mates played guitar and he didn’t know an instrument. The group attracted a following, toured Europe and, yes, became particularly “huge” in a certain small, central European country. “We were rather large in Belgium,” he jokes. The band dissolved and Ward married, moved to Brooklyn and worked on the 11-story mural that conceptual artist Sol LeWitt created for Manhattan’s Embassy Suites hotel in 2000. It was just a job, he says, but it inspired him to start painting again. “I couldn’t remember why I didn’t paint anymore,” he says, admitting he was struck by the large-scale fabrication, scope and professionalism of the project. “I always had a dreamy notion of what being an artist was. It was like a 6-yearold’s idea. … Now I’m about 9.” tbward.com

MIXING WORK WITH PLAY Whoever said “Don’t mix business with pleasure” never sat in a 5-by-5 cubicle, 10 hours a day, six days a week. Unless you’re downright giddy to go to work every morning (and if you are, please don’t rub it in), you need a little pleasure to get you through the workday. With baseball season in full swing, you’ll be scouring the Web for the latest updates. Quit clicking refresh, and get a Liveboard. The retrolooking scoreboard sits on your desk and has built-in Bluetooth, giving you pitchby-pitch updates. Another way to liven up the workday: Fantasize about money! Updown.com is a fantasy investing site that operates like fantasy sports. It’s free to join and “investors” compete using virtual portfolios and real-life brokerage simulations. The interactive social network, the brainchild of three Harvard entrepreneurs, also gives you the chance to make real money. OK, that’s enough distraction for one day. Now get back to work.

Call Today to Order our Catalog. . . . . . and Save $ Thousands! toll free

888-821-4187

www.grayandsons.com

$199; myliveboard.com • updown.com

The “Largest Discounter of Fine Watches and Estate Jewelry. . . in the World!” Contributors to First Class include Shelley Flannery and Scott Steinberg

Not an authorized dealer of any watch pictured in this ad. Names & symbols may be registered trademarks. ©2008 G&S

AMTRAK.COM


21

Detour

Matter of Course Arrive tees off in search of some of the region’s grandest greens BY DIANA LAMBDIN MEYER


To a nongolfer, every golf course looks the same—lots of pretty green grass, and pointed flags surrounded by more pretty green grass. But to the avid golfer—and there are 28.7 million golfers age 6 and above in the United States—golf courses are as distinct as a human fingerprint or DNA. Each course offers its own challenges to overcome, requisite skill levels and intriguing landscapes, while making any number of contributions to the history and growth of the game. A memorable golf course is one that provides fun and challenge for both the experienced golfer and the beginner. Players should enjoy a course for its unique opportunities—as well as for their own strengths and weaknesses. Of course, the architect is the primary designer of a golf course, although the players, Mother Nature and landscape also contribute to the genetic makeup of golfing. At first Mother Nature, with the help of wind, rain, sun and other elements, shaped the landscape only slightly less than she affected the strokes of the game’s early players. But Mother Nature’s best efforts became overpowered to a great extent with the introduction of earth-moving equipment in the early 20th century. And now, as the 1990s boom in golf course construction has slowed, the great designers and names in golf, from Pete Dye to Jack Nicklaus to Tom Watson, are looking back at the history of

The beautiful Robert Trent Jones Course at Palmetto Dunes

LES CUNLIFFLE/FOTOLIO

In Style Slow-paced, sweltering rounds of golf are a thing of the past at the three Palmetto Dunes courses on Hilton Head Island, S.C. Golfers at the Arthur Hills, Robert Trent Jones and George Fazio courses now have the option to ride in air-conditioned carts equipped with the Coolwell climate control system or travel in futuristic style on a Segway Golf Transporter. The Coolwell pulls heat and moisture from the air and blows cool, dry air from a block of ice toward passengers. Segways, which have become popular with law enforcement and postal workers in recent years, move players along at up to 12 mph—about three times faster than most can walk the course. The 8-inch platform offers an enhanced vantage point from which players can plan their shots. The Palmetto Dunes courses are the only public courses to offer both services. 843-785-1106; palmettodunes.com.

AMTRAK.COM


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Something a Little Different The Pete Dye River Course at Virginia Tech in Radford has been called brutal, challenging and beautiful—it also has a combination of features that keep golfers of all skill levels entertained. Home of the Virginia Tech golf team, the course was redesigned by Pete Dye in 2005 and was landscaped to accentuate the New River Valley. Eight holes play directly to the river’s edge. A bisecting 70-foot rock cliff created the opportunity to build two distinct but complementary nine-hole loops that start and finish near the club area. Groundbreaking for a new $5.5 million clubhouse takes place this summer. The River Course has many characteristics of Scottish courses, including pot bunkers and sodded grass. 540-633-6732; rivercoursegolf.vt.edu.

Hoping to make atn eagle at any one of these courses, top to bottom: The Pete Dye River Course at Virginia Tech, Atlantic City Country Club and Garrison Lake Delaware

the game and at the natural landscape to develop new and challenging play for the game’s fans. As the weather warms and the greens call, here are five courses that have made their mark and are worthy of your tee times this summer. Something Old Is New Again Closed for nearly three years, the Garrison’s Lake Golf Course in Smyrna, Del., has a new look, new owners and new management. The state Parks and Recreation Department purchased


the course in July 2004 and invested $4 million in removing and trimming a number of overgrown trees. The work also improved the underdrainage of the bunkers and the overall irrigation on the course. Those who have played here in years gone by will recognize many landscape components and will find a number of fun and new challenges. Originally playing at more than 7,000 yards from the tips, Garrison’s Lake features a collection of par 3s that stretch up to 200 yards and a collection of par 4s. 302-234-3365; dsga.org.

Something Old The historic Atlantic City Country Club sits on 170 acres in Northfield, N.J., just minutes from Atlantic City. Founded in 1897, this course is where the term birdie was first coined (see below), in 1903, and where the term eagle arrived shortly thereafter. The original course layout hosted the 1901 U.S. Amateur and has played host to six U.S. Women’s Opens. While maintaining plenty of its century-old charm, the ACCC was completely renovated in 1998. A new section of tidal marsh was dug into the original 15th hole to create a more daunting short par 4 from a peninsula tee, followed by a difficult par 3 playing back into the southeast wind. The soil removed from the marsh was redistributed to raise all of the coastal holes above flood levels. 609-641-7575; atlanticcitycountryclub.com.

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Golf on High The course at the Lodestone Golf Club in Garrett County, Md., will be the highest course in the state when it is completed in 2009. At nearly 3,000 feet above sea level and surrounded by 60 home sites, it also will be Hale Irwin’s first signature course in the state. The 400 acres atop Marsh Mountain are the latest component of the Wisp Resort Community of western Maryland, which also includes Fantasy Valley, a public course that received a makeover of Holes 1 through 4 this past winter. Both courses have fabulous views of Deep Creek Lake, the state’s largest freshwater lake. 800-462-9477; wispresort.com.

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Arts & Entertainment

Summer Stages The best way to enjoy the warmest season is to be outside, surrounded by music BY HEATHER JOHNSON ILLUSTRATION BY STEVE WACKSMAN


If there’s one thing a lifetime of schooling teaches you, it’s an eager anticipation and deep love of summer. It’s a conditioned response most of us never shake, even when it becomes painfully clear that, after you grow up, summers aren’t quite what they used to be. If you’re not one of the lucky few with access to a vacation home and the time off to enjoy it, this once-beloved season probably comes dangerously close to becoming a whole lot like all the others. Fortunately, summer still has a few tricks up its sleeve. One of the best is the abundance of opportunities to enjoy great music—outdoors—often with nothing but a blanket between you and actual grass. From outdoor music programs at legendary venues like Tanglewood in

Massachusetts and Wolf Trap outside Washington, D.C., to the broad array of music festivals and performance series like Central Park SummerStage, the East Coast music scene takes a cue from nature and comes vibrantly alive during the summer months. Tanglewood Tanglewood’s summer performances date back to 1937, when the Tappan family donated its estate to the Boston Symphony Orchestra and director Serge Koussevitzky set his sights on building a music school and, as Managing Director Mark Volpe tells it, establishing a performance venue that would keep musicians working during the summer months so they wouldn’t be tempted to go to Europe for employment. Now considered the granddaddy of summer

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MAY 18 Larry H. Miller Dealerships Utah GP

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JULY 19 Acura Sports Car Challenge at Mid-Ohio

AUG 9 Generac 500 at Road America

AUG 24 Mobil 1 Presents the Grand Prix of Mosport

AUG 30 Detroit Belle Isle Grand Prix

OCT 4 Petit Le Mans Road Atlanta

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music venues, Tanglewood features opera, chamber music programs, traditional outdoor concerts from the Boston Symphony Orchestra, and popular offerings like A Prairie Home Companion and James Taylor in concert. Formal classical music fans flock to Tanglewood for a different kind of concertgoing experience. “When you come to Tanglewood, you dress for the weather,” says Volpe. “It’s much more casual and much more relaxed.” tanglewood.org Wolf Trap A relaxed atmosphere is one of the prominent features of Wolf Trap in Vienna, Va., as well. “It’s just magical to sit under the stars and watch one of your favorite performers and not be in the confines of Row E, Seat 112, crammed in together,” says the venue’s director of programming and production, Peter Zimmerman. Like Tanglewood, Wolf Trap is a former private estate, generously donated by Catherine Filene Shouse for the express purpose of creating a performance venue. Operated as a public/private partnership between the National Park Service and the Wolf Trap Foundation, the venue opened to the public in 1971 and has become widely known for its eclectic summer schedule. “We do try to have something for everyone,” laughs Zimmerman. In one week, Wolf Trap might present a different genre of music every night. Besides the popular concerts, the venue also hosts Broadway touring companies, the National Symphony Orchestra, opera and dance. wolf-trap.org Central Park SummerStage Eclecticism is certainly one of the hallmarks of Central Park SummerStage, the diverse performance series that sets up shop every year on the Rumsey Playfield in New York’s Central Park. Entering its 23rd year, SummerStage began with a simple mission: to serve as a free public resource to help enrich the lives of New Yorkers. The fact that it doesn’t require a drive out of the city or a steep admission fee has made it a huge success. Over the years, more than 2 million people have attended the events, which run the gamut from rap to gospel, from comedy


The Coast Is Alive ... Highlights from this summer’s season of music 1

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2. James Taylor • July 3–4 • Tanglewood, Lenox, Mass. 3. Newport Folk Festival • Aug. 1-3 • Newport, R.I. 4. JVC Jazz Festival • Aug. 8–10 • Newport, R.I. 5. Bruce Springsteen & the E Street Band • July 27, 28 & 31 • Giants Stadium, N.J. 6. The Bamboozle Festival (punk, hardcore and emo) • May 3–4 • Meadowlands Sports Complex, N.J. 7. Thievery Corporation • SummerStage • June 26 • New York City 8. Popped Festival • June 20–22 • Philadelphia

to cabaret to modern dance to readings from important writers. summerstage.org The Best of the Rest We’d need a lot more space to list all the great outdoor music opportunities on the East Coast this summer, but there are a few venues that never fail to amaze with their exciting summer offerings. In the New York area, Jones Beach on Long Island presents concerts in a cool seaside setting, and the PNC Band Arts Center in Holmdel, N.J., and Randall’s Island off the coast of Manhattan both offer consistently excellent concert series. Boston’s Bank of America Pavilion proffers gorgeous harbor views in addition to an eclectic selection of concerts, and the Hatch Shell hosts the beloved Boston Pops. Down the road, sister

venues the South Shore Music Circus in Cohasset and the Cape Cod Melody Tent in Hyannis remain perennial summer favorites. In the Philadelphia area, the Mann Center for the Performing Arts hosts outdoor concerts from the Philadelphia Orchestra as well as contemporary musical acts, and across the Delaware River in Camden, N.J., the Susquehanna Bank Center features an impressive concert series. Washington, D.C., offers the rare opportunity to view concerts on the lawn of the U.S. Capitol, but architecture enthusiasts may prefer the Frank Gehry– designed Merriweather Post Pavilion in nearby Columbia, Md. Not surprisingly, it’s supposed to have the best acoustics of any outdoor venue around. STEVE WACKSMAN

Business Class

New Radicals Do technology and humanity have to be mutually exclusive? Here’s a look at eight innovators who are harnessing hightech breakthroughs to improve the way we live and work BY JOANN GRECO

We may complain about the technology that drives today’s work world, but we also admit that we’d feel a little lost and a lot disconnected without it. The leaders profiled below understand both our appreciation for and our frustration with these innovations—and they recognize that the future has yet to truly arrive. These thinkers and entrepreneurs know that the buzzwords of today’s wireless world—mobility, personalization, globalization, 24/7, social networking— have still-to-be-mined roles to assume in our professional lives. Here’s what they’re doing to make it all happen.

Born from jets: Moto Art artist Donovan Fell III made his first propeller art in the 1990s, but his fascination with aviation and its associated parts began during his childhood in the 1950s.

Building a Computer for the Masses—and the Future Nicholas Negroponte Founder and chairman, One Laptop Per Child Start with the progenitor of today’s technological workplace, the personal computer. Despite all subsequent inventions, it’s yet to become obsolete, but as it’s moved out of the office and into seemingly every U.S. home, school and library, it’s easy to take it for granted. The same is not the case in, say, Mongolia or Afghanistan, where not even electricity is a given. Changing that is a tall order, but building a laptop that sells for around $200 might do the trick. That’s the


Nicholas Negroponte’s One Laptop Per Child is creating a new computer revolution.

idea behind One Laptop Per Child, the Cambridge, Mass., nonprofit started by Nicholas Negroponte. A pioneer in the field of computeraided design, Negroponte, 63, is best known for founding MIT’s researchoriented Media Lab more than 20 years ago. Along the way he’s assumed guru status as an observer—and major funder—of the digital era. This time around, with the manufacture of the XO, a wireless, Internet–enabled, solar-powered laptop, Negroponte’s thinking really big. Despite its bright green and rubber makeup and its primary purpose as an educational tool, the laptop clearly has business legs. Not only is the machine light (about

MATTHEW MAHON

3 pounds), but also it’s able to use the sun as a primary energy source and includes an extremely long-running battery (up to 10 hours). Built-in antennas make each machine its own router, and a pivoting 7.5-inch screen easily converts the laptop for e-book reading. It’s harddrive-free, features a new Linux interface called Sugar and, of course, boasts a low, low price. All this has gotten the attention of Silicon Valley, which has clamored for an eventual commercial release of the product, albeit one that boosts memory (now only 256 RAM) and storage (presently 1 GB). Maybe one day, say Negroponte and his team. But first there are those billion or so kids waiting in line.

An Old Medium Gets a New Life Dane Neller and Jason Epstein Cofounders, On Demand Books Jason Epstein, 79, knows books. One of the most influential figures in modern publishing, he served for 40 years as an editor at Random House, where he brought literary panache to the hitherto pulpy paperback and further refined it by introducing the now-ubiquitous trade format. In 1963, during a newspaper strike, Epstein cofounded The New York Review of Books to make up for the industry coverage he sorely missed. “In every period of his career, Jason’s been trying to find a way to bring more and more books to the public,” observes Dane Neller, 51, Epstein’s partner in his latest endeavor, On Demand Books. A former CEO of Dean & DeLuca, the prestigious food retailer, Neller met Epstein when they worked together on a cookbook bearing the Dean & DeLuca name. One day, Epstein introduced Neller to the Espresso Book Machine, a sort of personal printing press that retrieves books digitally—think of an MP3 player—and prints them one at a time. The two eventually teamed up with the idea of mass-producing and selling the machine to point-of-sale distributors such as bookstores, libraries, copy shops and even coffee shops. “It was only recently, with the massive digitizing that’s been undertaken, that we could take advantage of the technology,” Neller says. On Demand has distributed six machines so far—in places as disparate as the New Orleans Public Library, an independent bookstore in Vermont and the World Bank. Ultimately, with its version 2.0 (due later this year), On Demand hopes to have thousands of machines out there. After browsing, a customer selects a title, which is then assembled and printed—complete with original cover—in a few minutes. The retailer will set the price, which should be cheaper than books distributed through traditional supply channels. On Demand has a list of 300,000 titles, most of them backlisted, out of print, foreign language, public domain and the like. “There are so many books that just aren’t on the shelves,” Neller AMTRAK.COM


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says. “This machine is about making them available. “The truth is, the book is a very efficient medium,” he continues. “We’re simply bringing technology to a successful analog product. The broader implication is that suddenly books are available at a reasonable price throughout the world. The impact can go much further than the book business and the book customer, to the improvement of education and literacy everywhere.”

Breaking Through the e-Glass Ceiling Victoria Colligan and Beth Schoenfeldt Cofounders, Ladies Who Launch With its winking name, pretty pink logo and you-go-sister attitude, it’d be easy to dismiss Ladies Who Launch as a girly spin on the old boys’ network. But this 5-year-old effort, like the audience it serves, is dedicated to doing things its own way. Employing an Internet-based model, it has helped connect—and launch—thousands of women-owned entrepreneurial ships. “Women are starting businesses at three times the rate of men,” says cofounder Victoria Colligan, 39, “and they’re doing so for different reasons. Survey after survey shows that they value flexibility and fulfillment more than anything, and being an entrepreneur satisfies those needs. I created Ladies Who Launch to address their specific needs.” While working in business development for a succession of women-owned companies, Colligan began noticing just how differently women entrepreneurs operated. She decided to start an online newsletter to reach them—some 11 million American women own businesses— and to highlight their success stories. Before long, she teamed up with Beth Schoenfeldt, 40, a New York marketing and sales exec who was developing an incubator to offer workshops and coaching for entrepreneurial women. Now, the New York–based organization is national, with 45,000 members who receive its e-mail newsletter and access online content like bulletin boards, job postings and an eBay store.


Beth Schoenfeldt (left) and Victoria Colligan founded Ladies Who Launch to enable networking among entrepreneurial women.

The network extends to the physical world, too, with intensive four-week workshops run by licensees in some 50 cities and regular live events in 10 cities. Its recently expanded website is the key, though, with video presentations and greater interactivity slated for the near future. “We see the site as the one-stop shopping tool for a woman to enhance her life while running her business,” says Colligan. “We want to be a clearinghouse where she can find her nanny or her massage therapist as easily as she can her printer or her graphic designer.”

The Mobile Revolution Has Begun Lubna Dajani CEO, Stratemerge Inc. When Lubna Dajani waxes poetic about wireless, she does so from the point of view of the consumer. “Wireless is all about being connected, not about wireless versus wired,” says the 43-year-old CEO of Stratemerge Inc., her New Jersey– based network of technology consultants. “It’s about simplifying everyday life rather than adding to the technological clutter.”

During her career in information technology, Dajani says she came to understand that “mobility was the next revolution” and set about spreading the word. “I see myself as an evangelizer,” she says. “I tell the industry: Let’s not think about how we’re going to bill the customer but about what compelling service we’re going to create for him. The money will follow.” Take Japan, where the mobile phone is king. Equipped with bar-coding technology, cells can be aimed at turnstiles for subway admittance, at vending machines for a can of soda or at billboards to download, say, a trailer for the movie being advertised. “It’s the remote control for your life,” says Dajani. “That’s not yet the case here. There’s still a lot of fear that it may not be the best business model for certain industries,” she says, “but it’s very important that we come to think of mobile not as an alternative to TV, radio, print or even the Web but rather as a multiplier. Mobile gives you a whole new way to measure and reach your audiences. And it gives you instant feedback. There’s an enormous number of revenue-generating opportunities that we’ve yet to explore with wireless.” EVAN KAFKA

The day will come, but not instantly. “Many experts think this is the year, but I say it’s more like 2011,” Dajani observes. “We still have coverage issues in North America—that’s an embarrassment. We’re still dropping calls, even as we’re talking about the future!”

Holding a Mirror to the Job Interview

IT’S LIKE ANOTHER WORLD OUTSIDE

Miles Munz and Randy Bitting Cofounders, InterviewStream As the nation engages in the biggest job hunt going—the one for U.S. president—we’re reminded once again of how torturous the whole process can be. At least presidential candidates have oodles of handlers and can watch and rewatch their televised debates. Regular folks … well, they’re on their own. Enter Randy Bitting, 26, and Miles Munz, 28, two young Philadelphians who grew up together, went away to college, and then reconnected in the City of Brotherly Love. After receiving one-too-many cold shoulders during their respective job hunts, the duo decided to turn their energies to helping others in the same boat. “We saw a need to provide a nonthreatening environment for someone who wasn’t used to the interview process,” says Bitting. They created a kiosk in which a prospective job seeker can engage in a videotaped mock interview. Eventually placed in college career centers, the software prompts students to answer typical questions and then monitors their responses for everything from excessive “umming” to poor eye contact. Students can review their performance online and even e-mail it to friends, employers and counselors. Four years later, the cofounders have been cited by Inc. magazine in its 30 Under 30 rankings, and the company, now called InterviewStream, is 100 percent Internet-based. It’s partnered with hundreds of universities, including nine of the top 10 business schools in the country. The site maintains a database of 1,500 interview questions—collected from schools, employers and outplacement firms—and films a real human resources person delivering them from behind a desk. In the comfort of their homes or at a university career counseling center, practicing interviewees sit before a computer screen equipped with a Webcam to answer questions as generic as “Tell me about yourself ” or questions tailored to specific industries and job functions. A two-minute response bar helps the long-winded stay pithy, and the entire taped interview is instantly ready for replay. “People don’t realize how often they scratch their head or use filler words such as like,” says Bitting. Employers and outplacement firms also use and customize the technology, especially for long-distance interviews. “Employers consistently say that communication skills are the No. 1 thing they’re looking for, especially at an initial interview,” Bitting continues. “And that’s hard to get from a piece of paper. This technology will never replace face-toface interviews, but it really streamlines the process.”

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WITH THE LEAD ROLE IN A NEW MOVIE AND A STAND-UP TOUR OF THE STATES, RICKY GERVAIS— THE KING OF DISCOMFORT COMEDY— WANTS TO BE AN AMERICAN STAR

The

Funnyman Cometh BY MARK FOLLMAN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER MURPHY


Ricky Gervais,

speechless, is gazing longingly into Leonard’s eyes. Seated in a plush armchair, his face within intimate range of Leonard’s, all he really wants is for Leonard to bark. Just once. This is a genuinely awkward moment for Gervais, the celebrated British actor-comedian who has made an art of playing characters prone to terribly awkward moments. Leonard is being played by a pampered performer named Jazz, a Great Dane supposedly trained to deliver on cue. But the hound with the Hollywood gravy train is gazing right back at Gervais without so much as a sniff.

After a moment, he lets loose a floppy tongue and pants a couple of times. He is going way off script. Everyone on the set is holding their breath. The stone-faced Gervais normally loves to improvise, but this time he’s baffled. It’s hard to decide if the impasse between the two is hilarious or weird or a fair bit of both. It’s mid-December in Brooklyn, and Gervais is hard at work on the final day of shooting for Ghost Town, a romantic comedy due in theaters later this year. Alongside actors Greg Kinnear and Téa Leoni, Gervais stars as a misanthropic dentist whose near-death experience leaves him with special powers of perception—and caught in a wacky love triangle reaching beyond the grave. This is rather a departure from the kind of material with which the comedy whiz made his mark—two acclaimed mockumentary TV series, The Office and Extras, which sent up workplace and celebrity inanity by way of brutally funny satire. Although it’s been two months and a rare long stint away from his home in England, Gervais says he loves AMTRAK.COM


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“I SUPPOSE I FELT GUILTY ABOUT WALKING INTO A GREAT JOB LIKE THE OFFICE, YOU KNOW? MOST COMEDIANS SLOG AROUND FOR 20 YEARS BEFORE THEY GET A PART IN A SITCOM OR A CHANCE TO WRITE SOMETHING.” spending time in New York City, the world’s primo fondue pot for pop culture. He is characteristically jovial about his first lead role in a Hollywood film. But this production is a different pile of string than the TV projects that brought him international fame. The scene at hand will require several more takes and perhaps some postproduction magic to coax the hound’s compliance. Gervais looks anxious as he steps over to view the footage on a nearby monitor and begins suggesting how the different takes might be cobbled together. He catches himself: “Look at me. I’m such a control freak!” He seems at once excited and agitated with this attempted transition from cult phenom to movie star. His TV success has already led to side roles in several Hollywood productions, but the forthcoming movie promises to plaster his mug on full-page ads across America this summer.


Even so, maybe it’s the pampered pooch who’s acting the prima donna here. “Yeah, it’s tough,” Gervais muses. “He was never going to bark and I knew it. He just wasn’t going to do it.” A bit more on this point, before we get to chatting at length about his improbable TV career and emerging Hollywood trajectory. “Have you worked with animals much before?” “Only in porn,” he quips. His deadpan look cracks open with that signature thousand-watt grin, the one punctuated by the pointy incisors and the high, impish guffaw. It’s an apt moment. Gervais has long frolicked at the edges of taste, heckling what he calls “broad comedy” and insisting that he does creative work only on his own terms. He says flat-out that he doesn’t want any dummies in his audience. (The misery of selling out to

If it’s not so much about seeing his “big fat face” on the screen, as Gervais goes out of his way to put it, the answer may lie in his zeal for collaboration. It starts with the writing and spills into all manner of revising and tinkering, a hallmark of his carefully sculpted TV creations. Even when peppering a comedy with blatant gags, he says, “it’s not the jokes that keep you hooked. It’s the story that keeps you hooked.”

a mainstream audience was a central theme of Extras.) Yet he loves American pop culture and admits to indulging regularly in watching “reality TV.” And he is eager to make a bigger splash across the pond—here he is, wrapping work on what by all appearances is an archetypal Hollywood tale. Indeed, as he stands at the Hollywood crossroads, Ricky Gervais also stands as something of a paradox. Shortish and rotund, he makes up in comedic charisma what he lacks in leading-man looks. He’s a genial and witty conversationalist, zinging one-liners like ammo fired from a toy gun and then giggling along with you as you duck and dodge. But can the unlikely middle-aged maverick—who favors uncomfortable humor but only jumped into comedy in his late 30s—really make the leap to Hollywood movie star? And why, exactly, does he care to try?

A Babe in Hollywoodland After television success delivered Hollywood scripts to his doorstep, Gervais resisted for a while. “A project really has to offer so much potential and possibility,” he says. He found the script for Ghost Town distinctively funny. Additionally, director David Koepp, who also cowrote the movie, offered the kind of access Gervais craved. “We fiddled with the script together for a couple of days and then I knew I was definitely in,” Gervais says. “I feel like I was part of it from the beginning.” The Brit’s approach impressed Koepp. “You want input from your actors; they’re not really doing their job if they’re not actively involved,” Koepp says. “For someone who has written so much himself, Ricky was an interesting combination of wanting to play the part as written on the page but also paraphrasing and going off on riffs.” As the day sprawls forward inside the cavernous Brooklyn studio, Gervais looks a little weary. It’s been 12-hour days, here and around the city, for eight weeks straight. But the gleam stays in his eye. “I love the hard work,” he says. “Winston Churchill said, ‘If you find a job you love, you’ll never work again in your life’—and it’s true.” Gervais ponders this for a second. “He also said, ‘Give me some more brandy.’ ” The laugh that bubbles up when he delivers such lines is quite familiar to actor Aasif Mandvi, who has a supporting role in Ghost Town. “We’ve had a hard time getting through the scenes because we kept cracking up,” says Mandvi, who gained notice as a correspondent on The Daily Show with Jon Stewart, the popular fake newscast on Comedy Central. “Ricky is a great person to bounce stuff off of because he likes to play. I love to work with people who just want to explore the possibilities like that. Sometimes you come up with crap, but sometimes you come up with gold. It makes it very alive.” “I get very excited about creating stuff just from scratch,” Gervais says. “You’ve got to be in this work for the right reasons—being rich and famous ultimately doesn’t mean anything.” A Star Is Born … Sort Of It would be hard to overstate Gervais’ fortune and fame, both primarily due to The Office, which he wrote and directed with his longtime creative partner, Stephen Merchant. Although the series didn’t get much attention when it first aired in the U.K. in 2001, it soon became one of the most successful television comedies in British history, winning prestigious awards, selling AMTRAK.COM


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more than 4 million DVDs and catching fire with audiences beyond U.K. shores. Set in the dreary town of Slough, England, the meticulous portrait of workplace tedium, insecurity and latent depravity starred Gervais as David Brent, the pitifully self-inflated middle manager of a paper company. He was a transfixing spectacle of awkward bravado and inappropriate conduct—a royal putz of a guy who, acutely aware of the fauxdocumentary’s camera, was desperate to impress more than just his employees with his off-color jokes and bungled truisms. The ensemble cast was equally vivid, both in its aversion to David Brent and its own moronic and degenerate behavior. Reaching across the Atlantic, the series won two Golden Globe awards and rare critical reverence. It’s not often that you see a top TV critic gushing like this: “Nobody who has seen the BBC series The Office has anything bad to say about it, and there’s a reason for that: It’s perfect,” wrote The New Yorker’s Nancy Franklin in October 2004. “It’s a comedy that doesn’t make you laugh, and at times it is close to unbearable; some people like it so much that they can’t watch it. That’s how good it is.” But although the show found a strong cult following here, Gervais is hardly a household name in America. Survey the pop-culturally savvy in, say, New York or San Francisco, and you’ll find devotees. But mention The Office to most American TV viewers and you’re likely to hear only about NBC’s hit spinoff of the same name, set in Scranton, Pa., and starring funnyman Steve Carell. Ricky Gervais? Who the hell is he? The man who inadvertently put Scranton on the map (he’s an executive producer of the NBC version) followed a circuitous path to stardom. Gervais, now 46, grew up in a suburb of Reading, in southern England. In the early 1980s he attended University College

“I LIKE THE ROMANCE OF DOING STAND-UP. IT’S THE LAST BASTION OF SELF-CENSORSHIP OUTSIDE THE NOVEL.”


Top: Gervais found fame with The Office. Below: His HBO show Extras attracted such guest stars as Kate Winslet, David Bowie, Robert De Niro and Daniel Radcliffe.

London, where he studied biology and philosophy and met his longtime girlfriend, TV producer Jane Fallon. He played in a pop group that blipped briefly on the U.K. charts, worked various odd jobs (including in an office, of course) and got into music and entertainment management. By the mid-1990s Gervais landed a job at London radio station Xfm, where he and Stephen Merchant first met. The two began writing sketches together, incubating what would become the demo for The Office. Gervais describes a rare creative partnership with Merchant. “Stephen and I trust each other so much. We never put anything in unless we both want it,” he says. “There’s no compromise, really. It feels like I’m always getting my own way, and maybe he feels the same.” To anyone who has ever collaborated on creating anything, this sounds farfetched—until you rewatch The Office, a series so well crafted that every detail, from an actor’s glance to the grace note of a clacking copy machine, counts. “We wanted every word and nuance to be real and to mean something,” says Gervais. “I’ve seen so much stuff that’s been ruined by writers getting carried away with getting a good joke in. We threw jokes on the floor if they made someone look too clever or undermined the story.” PHOTOFEST (2)

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“ALL MY FAVORITE COMEDIES AND DRAMAS ARE COMING OUT OF AMERICA. THE ‘BRITISH FILM INDUSTRY’ IS NEARLY AN OXYMORON.” A Stand-Up Guy The success of the series uncorked things for the comedy duo. Subsequent work included a weekly podcast that was downloaded by millions, and their next TV series, Extras, the wickedly funny torching of celebrity culture. That series, also starring Gervais, featured A-list cameos from the likes of Kate Winslet, Samuel L. Jackson, David Bowie and Robert De Niro. Gervais also wrote and appeared in an episode of The Simpsons, and he delved into stand-up comedy, touring with shows across the U.K.—although in this realm he has drawn more mixed reviews. In May 2007 he did his first U.S. show—at New York’s Madison Square Garden—as part of David Bowie’s High Line Festival. He is scheduled to bring his latest show to New York and Los Angeles in July. “I like the romance of doing standup,” he says. “It’s the last bastion of self-censorship outside the novel, and that excites me. I can go onstage and say anything I want.” He laughs at the notion. “Well, I pretty much do that on the telly as well. I guess I can get away with it because I put forward a good argument.” Gervais admits that taking a shot at stand-up was also about feeling like he needed to earn his spurs. “I suppose I felt guilty about walking into a great job like The Office, you know? Most comedians slog around for 20 years before they get a part in a sitcom or a chance to write something.” Although his second effort, Extras, gained only a modest U.S. audience, it too raked in the accolades, including Emmys in 2006 and 2007 and a Golden Globe in early 2008, shortly after the series finale aired. In that feature-length special, Gervais’ main character (the self-absorbed actor Andy Millman) had a surprisingly dramatic turn, leading one

American TV critic to suggest that an evolving Gervais could be the next Bill Murray or Jim Carrey. Still, it’s unclear whether Gervais can carve out artistic autonomy in Hollywood. He’s been criticized for a couple of side roles that, by his own admission, he took primarily for the chance to work with some of his film heroes. The big-budget Stardust, for example, put him in a scene opposite De Niro but implicated him in a schlocky fantasy-adventure that came off like a bad Terry Gilliam imitation for the Disney Channel. Gervais greatly admires American film and television. “All of my favorite comedies and dramas are coming out of America,” he says. “The ‘British film industry’ is nearly an oxymoron.” As for the reality TV zeitgeist, he says, “Yeah, we’ve got too much of it in Britain as well. But I do watch a lot of the shows coming back

over from here—Top Chef, Fit Club, The Apprentice, American Idol. “I think American TV has even been beating film over the past few years,” he adds, citing The Sopranos as a favorite. “I love the way that TV can relax now. It’s audacious to plan for an audience to get into a show after the third episode.” His own audacity has led some in the media to treat him like an animal—a variety of them, actually. He has been compared to a hyena (his laugh), a tiger (his grin), a walrus (his shape) and a puppy dog (his disposition), among others. Sometimes it has been done in admiration, sometimes not. And some critics have accused him of being a one-trick pony, playing essentially the same character in everything he does. Gervais appears to take it in stride. For him there is the legitimate press (“There are some wonderful journalists in Britain and America”) and there is the gutter press (“I don’t care whether Britney Spears is a good mother or not—it’s just cheap speculation”). He has made use of the latter: One memorable segment in Extras mocked tabloid

reporters who set off fact-free frenzies across the media. “No doubt about it: American press is nowhere near as bad as the British press with this,” Gervais laughs. “You’re amateurs. You have bitchy Internet people here. … Well, they get jobs on big papers in England!” But never mind the paparazzi and the pundits; after two months of toil in New York, what interests Gervais is tweaking the taste of American audiences. Will his sensibility come off smooth like Velveeta or pungent like so much Stilton? Aasif Mandvi, who also grew up in England, thinks Gervais can appeal more widely here. “Just as a fan, I’m excited he’s making this leap to Hollywood comedic leading man,” Mandvi says. “He’s just so funny.” Forecasting the next turn in Gervais’ career, however, may be no easier than deciphering his contradictions. He’s jolly and generous—no, he’s raw and uncompromising. He doles out pop culture barbs but lounges at home (mostly in his pajamas, he says) binging on reality TV. He pronounces judgment on “broad comedy”—then trades on his

hard-earned renown to do a mainstream Hollywood movie. But watch Gervais labor for a day and it’s evident he means it when he says the satisfaction of the work itself trumps all else. Like other wayward entertainers, he is driven in part by the way his chosen medium once riveted him. “I’ll tell you what,” he says, kicking back after the final shoot of the day has wrapped. “I’ve always wanted to get this one moment back: I wish I’d never seen The Godfather before, because I remember how good it felt the first time I watched it. I’d say the same about The Sopranos. I want that experience again.” It’s clear this motivates him not only as a fan. He’s got fame and fortune to spare, and has rubbed creative elbows with some of his artistic demigods. But although he has conjured some pretty serious comedy, Ricky Gervais would probably like nothing more than to move audiences with that same kind of magic. For more on Ricky Gervais, including his love of This Is Spinal Tap, visit arrivemagazine.com

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BY JEANINE BARONE

Garden State With bird-watching and woodland treks galore, New Jersey offers visitors an unexpectedly closeto-the-earth experience. And after a weekend (or a week) exploring the array of naturefocused venues, you’ll appreciate why New Jersey has earned its leafy moniker

S The Wetlands Institute

1075 Stone Harbor Blvd., Stone Harbor; 609-368-1211; wetlandsinstitute.org

You’re sure to develop a greater appreciation for the importance of salt marshes after visiting the Wetlands Institute, a nonprofit organization that’s been protecting the diamondback terrapin, a threatened turtle species, and promoting an understanding of wetlands and coastal ecosystems since 1969. Birds, including snowy egrets, are just about everywhere as they feed on crabs and other creatures in and around the marsh’s pools and creeks. To get oriented, pick up the self-guided Salt Marsh Trail brochure and walk the quarter-mile trail. Terrapins may cross your path while fiddler crabs scurry about the mud flats. The institute’s summer kayak trips meander to the interior of nearby Ring Island where, in June, the sound of laughing gulls—the largest North American colony—is deafening. A guided Sunday morning bird walk provides an education about the marsh’s winged inhabitants, as do pontoon boat trips with a naturalist who navigates from Scotch Bonnet Creek into the intercoastal waterways.


TOM VEZO/CORBIS, KELLY-MOONEY PHOTOGRAPHY/CORBIS

Opposite page: pectoral sandpiper wading through wetlands. This page: white egret in New Jersey Wetlands

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S

Alba Vineyard & Winery 269 Route 627, Village of Finesville, Milford; 908-995-7800 albavineyard.com

Floral displays abound at the New Jersey State Botanical Garden.

Built of native limestone in 1802, an old post-and-oak-beamed dairy barn now houses a winery, tasting room and the Musconetcong fine arts gallery, which exhibits anything from modern landscapes to traditional wildlife paintings. Daily tastings allow visitors to try any of the 18-plus wines produced from the winery’s 40 growing acres and to sample artisanal cheeses, breads, olive oils and vegetables from its organic garden. On the wine front, “we’re always experimenting,” says owner Tom Sharko. This award-winning vineyard—in 2007 it became the only winery to win two governor’s cups in the same year at the New Jersey Wine Competition—hosts myriad summer events. Wind your way


through the grounds on a horse-drawn carriage during Walk in the Vineyard in July, or hop aboard the basket of a hot air balloon. Back at the barn, winemaker John Altmaier describes the gravity-fed wine-making process and sets out a special wine tasting with pinot noir pulled straight out of the 2007 French oak barrel. During the winery’s biggest event, the July SummerFest Fireworks Festival, visitors picnic in the field and buy wine by the glass while enjoying a jazz or blues band and the elaborate display overhead. Terhune Orchards 330 Cold Soil Road, Princeton; 609-924-2310; terhuneorchards.com

Each year Gary and Pam Mount open up their 200 acres of farmland to the public, especially to those with an affection for berries. In May, the whole family can wander the patches with bucket MICHAEL P. GADOMSKI/AGEFOTOSTOCK

Freshly picked blueberries

in hand and easily pick strawberries. Raspberries and cherries are ready in June; in July, it’s blueberries. And 35 varieties of fruits and vegetables are stocked year-round in the farm market housed in a 150-year-old barn. But it’s all about blueberries during the late June Blueberry Bash, when adults and


especially children enter some creative confections in the bake-off and fi ll their plates with an array of blueberrythemed treats: cobbler, muffins, salsa and much more. On certain Tuesdays in the summer, children delight in the Read and Pick program. Visitors hear a story

about how a specific fruit, vegetable or flower grows and then wander the farm to pick it. Although at any time you can walk the one-mile Farm Trail that meanders through the meadow and into the forest dense with oak, maple and pine, during the summer the farm holds Discovery Walks so that kids can dig for earthworms and collect leaves. Reeves-Reed Arboretum 165 Hobart Ave., Summit; 908-273-8787 reeves-reedarboretum.org

Many people drive past the stone walls encircling the Reeves-Reed Arboretum without realizing they missed this hidden jewel. The approximately 13-acre estate with its 19th-century Colonial Revival dwelling is planted with over 5 acres of formal gardens that are open to the public. “One of the best gardens in the summer is the Wildlife Habitat,” says horticulturist Aimee Browning. In the early morning, hummingbirds dart about and monarch butterflies flutter around the milkweed collection. The bog is also worth exploring for its sundew and other carnivorous plants, and the pond attracts an array of birds, including blue herons and a multitude of goldfinches. The Daffodil Bowl, a wilder setting with tall native grasses, swells with wildflowers in the summer. A self-guided brochure leads visitors along a shaded one-mile trail that loops through the surrounding wetlands and woodlands dotted with old tulip poplar, native beech and dogwood. The arboretum also provides several events to boost your nature knowledge, including two workshops in July that focus on native plants and bees. Children get an environmental education while camping on the grounds during the June Great American Backyard Campout or participating in the ecologically based summer day camp.

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New Jersey State Botanical Garden Morris Road, Ringwood; 973-962-9534 njbg.org

Thank horticulturist and investment banker Clarence McKenzie Lewis for creating what’s now the New Jersey State Botanical Garden. In the early 1920s he imported specimens from as far

Madison Avenue at East 45th Street 212-661-9600 • theroosevelthotel.com When you plan your next trip to Paris, France, stay at the Hotel Scribe.

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Some of the herbs at Well Sweep Herb Farm. Top to bottom: milk thistle, feverfew and horehound flowers.

ISTOCKPHOTO (3)

during Family Fun Days, adults tour the vineyard and cellar and taste a selection of 25 wines while the kids take a tractor-drawn hayride and participate in a watermelon seed–spitting contest (which attracts the adults as well). In May and July, the ever-popular Grape Stomping event is more than bare feet crushing fruit. You’re taught to distinguish the tannins in a red and the acidity in a white during a formal wine tasting presentation. A buffet dinner with your wine of choice, cellar tours and a port tasting are all part of the evening. But the grape stomping itself is the highlight. Many need to be encouraged to jump into the 10-person barrel or one designed for twosomes. “But some people call it the best foot massage of a lifetime,” says Matarazzo.

Business. Pleasure. Exceptional services perfect for both. That’s why

Well Sweep Herb Farm 205 Mount Bethel Road, Port Murray; 908-852-5390; wellsweep.com

For 39 years Cyrus and Louise Hyde have operated the Well Sweep Herb Farm, home to almost 2,000 varieties of herbs and perennials and one of the largest such collections in the country. Cyrus’ family has long had herbs in its blood. After all, his great-great-greatgreat-grandmother treated George Washington’s troops with herbal remedies. On the 120-acre property, the specimens in the Medicinal Garden are labeled with the disorders they may treat. Horehound, for example, is good for colds. For a more in-depth exposure to this subject, David Winston, a noted herbalist, takes visitors along the paths during the summer Medicinal Herb Walk, explaining the complete usage of botanicals noted for their healing effects. If you’d rather work with herbs in the kitchen, visit during the Spring Open House, held each June, when Cyrus guides visitors through the garden discussing how to cook with sweet cicely or lovage, for example. July may be most noted for the Midsummer Herb Festival. Calendula is the featured herb in 2008, and the farm’s lunch will include dishes that make use of the plant’s bold hue while lectures focus on its uses in medicine and crafts.

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YOUR GUIDE TO

Summer Attractions DEA Museum & Visitors Center 700 Army Navy Drive Arlington, VA 22202 202-307-3463 deamuseum.org

From the first draft of his Gettysburg Address to personal letters and manuscripts, we have Honest Abe . Watch as interactive exhibits and touch-screen covered. kiosks bring this American hero back to life. Just a few of the over 138 million items waiting for you to explore. www.loc.gov E X P L O R E . D I S C O V E R . B E I N S P I R E D.

The DEA Museum & Visitors Center is committed to educating the American public on the history of the Drug Enforcement Administration and on the impact of drug addiction from past to present through engaging and state-of-the-art exhibits, displays, interactive stations and educational outreach programs. Current exhibits include: • Good Medicine, Bad Behavior: Drug Diversion in America: This interactive exhibit explores the history of prescription drug abuse, illegal web-based pharmacies and the impact that self-medication can have on the human body. • Target America: From the ancient Silk Road carrying opium to Europe to modern day narco-terrorism, this exhibit explores the costs to American society and the impact illegal drugs have on users, children and the environment due to global illegal drug trafficking and its link to terrorism. The DEA Museum is open Tuesdays–Fridays 10 a.m.–4 p.m.

Historic St. Mary’s City Maryland Route 5 (One hour south of Annapolis) St Mary’s City, Maryland 20686 240-896-4990 • 800-SMC-1864 stmaryscity.org

February 8–August 17, 2008 The Lawrence F. O’Brien Gallery, National Archives Building Between 7th and 9th Streets on Constitution Avenue, NW Archives-Navy Memorial Metro stop / www.archives.gov / 202-357-5000


History is hands-on at Historic St. Mary’s City, a museum on the site of Maryland’s first capital. Visitors can explore an unordinary ordinary, help a planter tend his fields, step on board a tall ship, and discover the world of the Yaocomaco Indians. A new exhibit opening in 2008 on the St. John’s site offers insights into ways researchers reconstruct the past using historical and archaeological evidence and

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examines how Lord Baltimore’s design for Maryland foreshadowed the First Amendment rights guaranteed by our Constitution.

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The Library of Congress 10 First Street, SE Washington, DC 20540 202-707-8000 • loc.gov Experience the world’s largest collection of culture and creativity like never before. The Thomas Jefferson Building features interactive exhibits and touch-screen technology that bring history right to your fingertips. Flip through the pages of the Gutenberg Bible. Explore the map that named America. Browse original volumes from Thomas Jefferson’s library. Examine handwritten edits our Founding Fathers made to the Declaration of Independence. Let the Library take you on a unique and personal journey. Explore. Discover. Be Inspired. Visit loc.gov to learn more.

National Aquarium Baltimore’s Inner Harbor 501 East Pratt Street Baltimore, MD 21202 410-576-3800 • aqua.org

The 3rd U.S. Infantry Regiment (The Old Guard) and The U.S. Army Band “Pershing’s Own”

Wednesdays at 7:30 pm at historic Fort Lesley J. McNair 4th Street and Maine Ave., sw wa s h i n g to n , d c

NEW ON TI LOC A IME &T

May 7, 14, 21, 28 June 4, 18, 25 · July 2 For more information and group registrations call (202) 685-2888 or visit www.mdw.army.mil

Explore habitats from around the world at the National Aquarium in Baltimore. From the beautiful red river gorge of Animal Planet Australia to the depths of the Open Ocean, the Aquarium is home to over 14,000 animals. Trek through the heart of the Amazon River Forest, and marvel at the brilliance and variety of species in Frogs: A Chorus of Colors. Plus, discover your senses in our all-new 4-D Immersion Theater. Plan your visit at aqua.org.

National Aquarium 14th Street & Constitution Avenue, NW Washington, DC 20230 202-482-2825 nationalaquarium.org Discover America’s Aquatic Treasures at the National Aquarium in Washington, D.C. Located only one block from the Washington Monument in the Department of Commerce Building, the beautiful exhibits at the newly renovated National Aquarium showcase unique and engaging animals, and provide a refreshing and restful pause in your busy day. AMTRAK.COM


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Find yourself in history at

Historic St. Mary’s City

YOUR GUIDE TO

Summer Attractions The National Archives Experience Between 7th and 9th Streets on Constitution Avenue, NW Washington, DC 202-357-5000 archives.gov/nae

Step on board a tall ship, see what’s up in the Spray family garden, explore Yaocomaco lifeways, and get impressed at the Print House. History is hands on at HSMC, a museum of living history and archaeology in beautiful tidewater Maryland. An easy drive from the metro areas!

www.stmaryscity.org 800-SMC-1634 240-895-4990

The National Archives houses the original Declaration of Independence, Constitution, Bill of Rights and more than 10 billion records. Visit the interactive Public Vaults exhibit plus theater with free films. On display through August 17: Running for Office: Candidates, Campaigns and the Cartoons of Clifford Berryman. Open daily.

Twilight Tattoo

Travel P lanner The Westin BaltimoreWashington Airport Hotel Opening this fall, the new Westin Baltimore Washington Airport hotel is located 2 miles from Baltimore/Washington International Airport. Just minutes from downtown Baltimore and the Inner Harbor, this new hotel is convenient to many local attractions and corporations. Complimentary shuttle service is available to and from the hotel and train station. 866-449-4381 westin.com/bwiarrive

The Marmara Manhattan The Marmara combines old world hospitality with modern amenities in stylish studios and one-, two-, three-bedroom suites, equipped with the latest technology. Residential in feel, The Marmara boasts the services of a fine hotel with staff ready to satisfy every need. The

comforts of home await at this fabulous location, offering style and luxury for long and shortterm accommodations.

Open Tues.–Sat., 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Thursday Artful Evenings until 8:30 p.m.; Sunday noon–7 p.m. (June–Sept. noon–5 p.m.)

301 East 94th Street, NY, NY 10128 212-427-3100 marmara-manhattan.com

202-387-2151 phillipscollection.org

Park South Hotel The Park South is your oasis in Manhattan. Special offer to Arrive readers: Show your Amtrak ticket at check-in and your cab ride from the station is on us.

20th Annual DuPont Clifford Brown Jazz Festival June 15–22, 2008 Wilmington, Delaware Featuring David Sanborn, Dirty Dozen Brass Band, The Mingus Big Band and many more. Free and open to the public

800-315-4642 www.parksouthhotel.com

The Phillips Collection Experience art in a setting unlike any other in Washington. The Phillips Collection’s intimate galleries feature works by renowned impressionist and modern artists—Degas, Matisse, O’Keeffe, Picasso, Renoir and Rothko, among others. Located in the heart of DuPont Circle.


cliffordbrownjazzfest.com

Riverfront Blues Festival August 8–10, 2008 Wilmington, Delaware Featuring Koko Taylor, Elvin Bishop, The Mannish Boys and many more. Tickets from $15. RiverfrontBluesFest.com

Performed by the U.S. Army Band “Pershing’s Own” and The 3rd U.S. Infantry (The Old Guard) Fort Lesley J. McNair 4th Street and Maine Avenue, SW Washington, DC The United States Army’s most popular outdoor ceremonial pageant, Twilight Tattoo, opens in the Washington, D.C., area on May 7, 2008, at Fort Lesley J. McNair, starting at 7:30 p.m. This year’s Twilight Tattoo series will be held every Wednesday on the following dates: May 7, 14, 21, 28; June 4, 18, 25; and July 2. Twilight Tattoo is an hour-long sunset military pageant that features Soldiers of the 3rd U.S. Infantry Regiment (The Old Guard) troop units and ceremonial units—The Old Guard Fife and Drum Corps and The U.S. Army Drill Team; The U.S. Army Blues; vocalists from The U.S. Army Chorus; and The U.S. Army Band Downrange. This performance is free and open to the public. Bleacher seating is on a firstcome, first-served basis. For more information on group reservations, contact the U.S. Army Military District of Washington at 202-685-2888 or mdw.army.mil

54 Baltimore 56 Boston W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G I N T O W N

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New York Philadelphia Providence Washington, D.C.

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Ninth Avenu l Food Internationa Festival PAGE 58

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CITY GUIDE

by greg g. weber

Baltimore (minutes from the Pimlico horse track) with a concert by the Crawdaddies, and continues the following morning with the Preakness Parade through downtown. Then the fun really begins. Three kinds of critters will face off for races of their own: The Pee Wee Preakness (for kids, 11 a.m., May 13, Federal Hill Park), the Preakness Frog Hop (noon, May 14, City Hall) and the Preakness Crab Derby (noon, May 15, Lexington Market). In between are at least one beer night, another concert, a balloon festival (the kind you ride in), and who knows how many unaffi liated, unsanctioned and unbridled events. Oh, and lest we run off without mentioning it, the horse race is May 17, a Saturday, of course. preakness.com.

It’s horse-racing season again

‘These Shining Lives’

To most of the world, the Preakness is merely a horse race, albeit a famous one, run each year on the third Saturday in May. But in Baltimore, it’s a celebration spanning the heart of the month of May. It starts this year at 6 p.m., May 9, at Belvedere Square

It was the 1920s, and the women painting watch dials with radium were happy with their jobs: good pay and a

favorable working environment. But things began turning unimaginably grim when

the realities of working closely with a radioactive substance (used to make watches glow in the dark) began to emerge. The women had been instructed to sharpen the points of their radium-soaked paintbrushes by wetting them on their tongues. Melanie Marnich tells the story of their plight and fight against corporate malfeasance in a new play, These Shining Lives, being given its world premiere. Matinees and evening shows through June 1 at Centerstage, 700 N. Calvert St., 410-332-0033. centerstage.org.

FELLS POINT

INNER HARBOR

MOUNT VERNON

INNER HARBOR

Haunted Pubwalk May 9, June 13

387 Feet Above Through June 8

Maps: Finding Our Place in the World Through June 8

Body Worlds 2 Through Sept. 1

Preakness, Preakness, Preakness

Save the Date

CITY CENTER

Farmers Market Sundays

May 4 marks the beginning of a season of relishing the Maryland bounty. 8 a.m. to sellout (usually noon), East Saratoga and Holiday, under the Jones Falls Expressway. 410-752-8632

A pub crawl through the historic maritime neighborhood. Advance tickets advised, $20, tour only. Meet at 7 p.m. at The Whistling Oyster. 410-522-7400; fellspointghost.com


New maps of Baltimore made using views from the Top of the World Observation Level. $5, Wednesday through Sundays, World Trade Center. 410-837-VIEW

A landmark exhibit of maps from ancient to modern, part of the Festival of Maps. $12, Walters Art Museum. 410-547-9000; thewalters.org

Real human bodies preserved through the life work of Gunther von Hagen and the process of “plastination.” Seen by 25 million people worldwide. Maryland Science Center. 410-685-5225; mdsci.org

JIM MCCUE, MARYLAND JOCKEY CLUB

CITY GUIDE

by Annie B. Copps

Boston Free to Be You and Me First your jaw drops, then you smile

Bostonians love a good parade, and the most colorful, exciting and watched has to be the annual Gay Pride parade. Thousands of gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender merrymakers don outrageous, head-turning costumes to make their way from Tremont Street in the Back Bay to their fi nal destination—the Boston Pride Festival at City Hall Plaza. Participants and spectators march, dance and ride aboard decorated floats (themes vary from AIDS awareness to declaring a variety of sexual preferences) and in motorcycle cavalcades, entertaining the often-blushing crowd that lines the streets along the route. The parade, while certainly a shocking sight for many and a no-holds-barred celebration for others, is also intended to raise awareness about gay rights. Massachusetts Governor Deval Patrick, Boston Mayor Thomas Menino and other public figures have been known to put on a bright outfit and march along in support. June 14. 617-262-9405; bostonpride.org.

The fifth day of the fifth moon of the Chinese lunar

calendar—June 10, this year—brings rowing teams from

all over America and Canada to race in the Hong Kong Dragon Boat Festival. While athletes row elaborately decorated boats down the Charles River, the Boston and Cambridge banks are lined with dragon dancers, martial arts demonstrations, Japanese drumming, an Asian craft fair, and food kiosks serving cuisine from all corners of Asia. boston dragonboat.org.

A River Runs Through It

Save the Date

HARVARD SQUARE

FENWAY

HATCH SHELL

GOVERNMENT CENTER

SEAPORT

Mayfair May 4

Boston Youth Symphony May 18

WBOS Earthfest May 26

BBQ Beach Party June 18-22

Chefs in Shorts Late June

Some 300 artisans and merchants take to the street for an afternoon of crafts, music, performance art, antiques and gobs of great food. 617-491-3434; harvardsquare.com

World-renowned cellist Yo-Yo Ma leads the 100-member Boston Youth Symphony through two Dvorak pieces. 617-353-3348; bysoweb.org


More than a dozen bands and 150,000 fans rock out to raise awareness about global, environmental and ecological concerns. earthfest.com

Boston City Hall Plaza becomes a sandy beach for a weekend of live music and barbecue provided by local restaurateurs and by pitmasters from Texas, Virginia, Tennessee and Australia. phantomgourmetbbq.com

Check out the gams and the hams as Bostonarea chefs don shorts for a waterside cookout to benefit the Greater Boston Food Bank. seaportboston.com

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CITY GUIDE

by Leah Reisman-Senes

New York Super Fly Get caught up in a manic night of theater

MIDTOWN

No, No, Nanette May 8-12

Rosie O’Donnell (yes, that Rosie O’Donnell) stars in the classic musical, part of New York City Center’s Encores! series. 877-581-1212; nycitycenter.org

Bathing Beauties

over by a different celebrity King Neptune and Queen Mermaid every year, roles previously filled by the likes of Queen Latifah, David Byrne and Moby. The Mermaid Parade is free and is suitable for sea lovers of all ages. The Mermaid Ball, which follows, is for an older crowd and requires tickets for an evening of live music, burlesque and sideshow acts. June 21. 718-372-5159; coneyisland.com.

Showcasing all that is quirky, bizarre and wonderful about New York is the Mermaid Parade at Coney Island. Participants dressed as mermaids and every other imaginable sea creature sport costumes in a dazzling, dizzying

array of colors, often with faces and other extremities painted to match or complement. Floats also arrive in big, boisterous shapes that in the past have included ambitious undertakings like the Nautilus from 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. The festivities are presided

MIDTOWN

FINANCIAL DISTRICT

UPPER EAST SIDE

VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Ninth Avenue International Food Festival May 18-19

Bang on a Can Marathon May 31-June 1

Museum Mile Festival June 3

Much more than cans, it’s free, nonstop, contemporary music spanning all genres, from bagpipes to hip-hop, at the World Financial Center Winter Garden. 718-852-7755; bangonacan.org

For the 30th year, an evening of free admission to Manhattan’s finest museums along Fifth Avenue, lined by street vendors, artists and performers. museummilefestival.org

JVC Jazz Festival New York June 16-28

Pick a spot, any spot, and stand there. That’s right: There are no seats at Fuerzabruta. Don’t get attached to where you are, either. Some very active stagehands will soon begin herding you here, there and everywhere while a treadmill with a frantically running man whizzes into view. At another point, what appears to be a giant silver foil pancake descends from the ceiling, a man swinging from one side of it and a woman from the other. Later, aquatic sprites materialize overhead, swimming—or more accurately, water-dancing—in a suspended, clear pool that slowly floats down within reach of the audience, supported by a

Save the Date

layer of mylar thin enough to feel and touch but strong enough to hold in the women and the water. All the while the dry ice flies fast and furious, alternating with bursts of simulated wind and rain, and confetti from exploding cardboard bricks, entirely set against a pulsating techno beat. Fuerzabruta (Brute Force) is the latest invention from the people behind the offBroadway smash De La Guarda, and it features a similar mix of wild, frenetically paced, colorful acrobatics. Wear comfortable shoes and check your coat and expectations at the door as you prepare for an unusual and—at times—awe-inspiring spectacle. Through June 29. 212-239-6200; fuerzabrutanyc.com.

Stroll 37th through 57th streets for cuisine from A to Z, including Argentinean, Indonesian, Senegalese and Ukrainian, plus live international music. 212-581-7217


The crème de la crème of annual jazz fests. New York’s favorite sound takes over every venue, from concert halls to public parks. festivalnetwork.com

CITY GUIDE

by Heather Johnson

Philadelphia The Barnes Foundation

may have gotten lost in the shuffle. For the record, it is still going strong in its original location in Merion, and the art collection, which includes some of the best French Impressionist, postimpressionist and early Modern paintings in the world, will remain there for several more years while the new facility is being built on Benjamin Franklin Parkway in Philadelphia. After that, the original building and 12-acre arboretum will continue to function, with a greater focus on the horticultural education that has always been a part of the organization’s mission. That’s especially good news for the many patrons who find the glorious gardens to be a major part of the foundation’s appeal. The foundation’s website features a month-by-month guide to what’s in bloom so visitors can plan their excursions to coincide with the emergence of their favorite flora. In May and June, the lilacs will bloom in the arboretum and the Renoirs and Cézannes will burst forth from their original gallery walls. In other words, it’s the perfect time to visit this Philadelphia-area favorite. 610-667-0290; barnesfoundation.org.

The Devon Horse Show and Country

Fair celebrates its 110th birthday this year, and it’s easy to understand why this has become

one of the area’s most enduring events. An extensive horsebackriding competition paired with an old-fashioned country fair, this unique happening has something of interest for everyone—from the serious equestrian to your carnival-crazed kids. And then there’s the matter of that legendary Devon fudge, more than 2,500 pounds of which is sold during the fair each year. The oldest and largest event of its kind in the United States, the Devon Horse Show and Country Fair runs May 22-June 1. 610-688-2554; thedevonhorse show.com.

RITTENHOUSE SQUARE

AVENUE OF THE ARTS

CITYWIDE

RITTENHOUSE SQUARE

Rittenhouse Square Flower Market May 14-15

Carnival of Animals June 6-14

Philadelphia Gay and Lesbian Theatre Festival June 12-28

Bloomsday June 16

Alive and well and living in Merion With a controversial battle over the relocation of its world-class art collection putting the Barnes Foundation in the media during the past few years, the foundation’s current state

All’s Fair!

Save the Date

BOATHOUSE ROW

Dad Vail Regatta May 9-10

The largest collegiate regatta in the world sets sail on the scenic Schuylkill River. dadvail.org

Stock up on your favorite flowers and enjoy some food and entertainment at the 94th annual benefit for children’s health and welfare organizations. 215-542-1443


The Pennsylvania Ballet ends its season with this critically acclaimed piece about a young boy who spends the night in New York’s Museum of Natural History. paballet.org

Just in time for Gay and Lesbian Pride Month, this festival brings new and classic works to theaters around the city. philagaylesbian theatrefest.org

The Rosenbach Museum & Library—home of James Joyce’s Ulysses manuscript—offers readings, musical programs and exhibitions commemorating the day the novel’s hero made his odyssey through Dublin. rosenbach.org

CITY GUIDE

by liz johnson

Providence Braving the Elements

Noticed more ecofriendly fabric lately? It could be part of the new

“arts and crafts spirit” in clothing and fashion that the Rhode Island

School of Design Museum is chronicling in its exhibit “Evolution Revolution: The Arts and Crafts in Contemporary Fashion and Textiles.” The show looks at the changing relationship between fashion and our attitudes to life. After all, if we’re going green in our lives, it might be reflected in our clothes. The museum says the movement is like the 1800s Arts and Crafts period because today’s designers are looking to integrate new technology into a modern way of thinking. Through June 15. 24 Benefit St., 401-454-6500, risd.edu.

DOWNTOWN

LINCOLN

DOWNTOWN

DOWNTOWN

Git ’er Done! May 4

Dip, Sip, Repeat May 29

Farm Fresh June 15

You don’t have to be a redneck to appreciate the special brand of white trash humor delivered by Larry the Cable Guy. Providence Performing Arts Center. 401-421-2997. ppacri.org

Dance to Mike Lyons & the Blue Moon Orchestra while tasting wine and dining on signature dishes of the state’s best restaurant at a fundraiser for the State Ballet of Rhode Island. 401-334-2560, stateballet.com.

Take home a bit of Rhode Island—or just stop for a snack—by shopping at the farmers market, where vendors sell locally grown food and artisanal goods like coffee and baked goods. farmfresh.org

A Mile of History Beginning June 15

It’s WaterFire time again If you can arrange a stopover to coincide with one of the nights for WaterFire, do it. If not, you may want to book a separate trip for what National Geographic Traveler names one of the top 20 events in the United States. Mystical. Magical. Primal. All describe this event unlike anything anywhere. Beginning on a weekend night in May, at sunset volunteers mount small boats loaded with firewood and ply the three rivers of downtown (the Woonasquatucket, Moshassuck and Providence), lighting fires in midstream on floating and fixed braziers. The fires, reflected in brilliant orange off the night water, burn until 1 a.m. while anywhere from 20,000 to 100,000 attendees sit and contemplate or wander to hear a variety of music, dance or enjoy eating at street stands or in one of the downtown’s restaurants. WaterFire, created as a recurring installation by artist Barnaby Evans, is decidedly spiritual, and organizers, which include prominent businesses and the city itself, have kept it that way in the years since its inception in 1994. Vendors are kept well back from rivers’ edges and are

Save the Date

CAPITOL

The Buck Stops Here May-June

To see the portrait of George Washington that inspired the image on the dollar bill, take a guided tour of the State Capitol building. 401-222-3983, sec.state.ri.us

prevented from selling overly commercial goods. The hope is to keep children and adults focused on the soul of the event rather than glow-in-the-dark, plastic trinkets. WaterFire is free and recurs about 20 times over the summer. 800-233-1636; waterfire.org.


Dressed Up and Showing It

A 90-minute walking tour beginning at the John Brown House Museum. 401-273-7507, rihs.org

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CITY GUIDE

by Monica Bhide

Washington, D.C. Can You Dig It? Afghan treasure objects from a big dig

A traveling exhibition of extraordinary archeological treasures from the National Museum of Afghanistan in Kabul, comes to Washington, D.C., this summer. The exhibit provides insight into the heritage of Afghanistan from the Bronze Age (2500 B.C.) through the rise of trade along the Silk Road in the first century A.D. It also includes 4,000year-old artifacts as well as gold objects from the famed Bactrian hoard, a 2,000-year-old Douglascache Warner treasure discovered in 1978 but hidden from view until 2003. The event is presented by the National Geographic Society and National Gallery of Art in cooperation with the National Museum of Afghanistan. May 25 through Sept. 7, 2008. nga.gov.

The nation’s capital—the headquarters of our military—didn’t have a Memorial Day Parade for nearly 70 years. But in 2005, the American Veterans

Center brought this tradition back to Washington, D.C., creating a parade honoring those who have served in the U.S. Armed Forces. In its second year, the

parade boasted more than 150,000 participants from all over the United States, featuring marching bands, active-duty and retired military units, floats and more. This year’s parade marshals include actors Gary Sinise and Joe Mantegna. May 26. 2 p.m. at Constitution Avenue and 5th Street.

KENNEDY CENTER

WHITE HOUSE

AT THE FAIRMONT

ALEXANDRIA, VA.

Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra May 7

President Lincoln’s Cottage at the Armed Forces Retirement Home Ongoing

Chocolate Lover’s Brunch May 25 and June 22

Juneteenth Celebration June 14

Marching On

Save the Date

BETHESDA, MD.

Itzhak Perlman May 4

Perlman displays his profound and magical musical talents at the Music Center at Strathmore. 202-785-9727; wpas.org

Wynton Marsalis performs on the trumpet with his orchestra, conveying the intricacies and joy of jazz music. 202-467-4600; kennedy-center.org


See where President Lincoln reached difficult decisions that preserved the Union. 202-829-0436; lincolncottage.org

Indulge your sweetest tooth in a prix fixe buffet at the Colonnade Hotel. 202-429-2400; fairmont.com/washington

Celebrate the historic day when Texas slaves finally learned of their emancipation. alexblackhistory.org

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Kellari by Starlight Upon entering Kellari Taverna, visitors are greeted with a placard that reads “Enter as Strangers, Leave as Friends.” That’s about as succinct a mission statement as one can find for owner Stavros Aktipis’ burgeoning empire of restaurants, which began with Taverna (specializing in fresh seafood) in 2006 and has now expanded to a bistro, Kellari’s Parea, situated near Union Square in the Gramercy district and offering classic and rustic Greek fare. Both locations provide what Aktipis describes as an “elegant, comfortable and timeless” atmosphere as well as a blend of traditional and modern takes on Hellenic cuisine. Conveniently on 44th Street, just a few blocks from both Grand Central Station and the Theater District, every element of Taverna radiates Aktipis’ brand of inclusive hospitality, from its attentive and knowledgeable staff to its romantic design, which takes inspiration from the wine cellars of Greece. Aktipis is quick to point out, however, that the design draws on elements of all the Mediterranean cultures. “The idea that I had was that even though the concept behind them is Greek, I wanted them to relate to more than just the Greek culture,” he says. “There are elements that remind of home to the Italians, the Spanish, the south of France and even beyond that.” Oak barrels frame the soft room, which rises to tall, woodbeamed cathedral ceilings adorned with candlelit chandeliers.


Diners may choose from over 250 wines by the bottle or dozens by the glass to begin their Taverna experience; for those with limited exposure to the rich palate of Greek food, Aktipis suggests starting with a traditional Greek salad of vine-ripened tomatoes, olives, mixed olives and feta. “I would then recommend a fish which the Greeks call lavraki”—a mild European sea bass known in Italian dining circles as branzino—with a side of steamed wild mountain greens. More adventurous guests are directed toward plaki, a roasted Chilean sea bass in a braised aromatic tomato sauce, served with Vidalia onion and potatoes. Although seafood does dominate the Taverna menu, meat dishes like paidakia (grilled lamb loin chops) and brizola (grilled rib-eye steak) are also available, as well as an expansive dessert menu. Aktipis suggests loukoumades, which is honey and fruit jelly in a phyllo roll. Since November 2007, aficionados of Kellari Tavern have been able to enjoy the same hospitality in a downtown setting at Kellari’s Parea (parea is Greek for “wine cellar”). The location helped inform his concept for the restaurant, which he envisioned as a classic bistro with a “neighborhood feel,” perfect for meeting friends to share its menu, which offers both taverna-style fare like lavraki, moussaka and garides (shrimp and fettuccine), and lighter dishes like Greek pizzas and an array of mezedes (appetizers) like saganaki (baked goat cheese) and dolmades (stuffed grape leaves). Visitors arriving at Parea on the third Friday of every month are treated to an evening of Greek music

to complete their experience; Taverna hosts a similar night of entertainment on the first Friday of each month.

Kellari Taverna 19 W. 44th St.; 212-221-0144

Kellari’s Parea 36 E. 20th St.; 212-777-8448

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73

Cocktail

Wither Without the Vine These crisp, refreshing wines will help you keep your cool when it comes time to beat the summer heat BY JESSICA MERRILL


A

As the warmth of June gives way to the reality of July—mugginess and sweltering temperatures that can make your limbs feel like double-sided sticky tape—drinking anything other than an icy beer can seem like a hassle. Just thinking about opening a bottle of wine (not to mention rummaging through your kitchen drawer for a wine opener) can make you break out in a sweat—and not a cold one either. Luckily, there are plenty of wines that can help you beat the summer heat, complementing the season’s fresh vegetables and the barbecued chicken and grilled fish you’re sure to be eating. Although the most ardent wine lover would probably be willing to crank the AC a few degrees higher to savor the intense spice and leather of a rare Chateauneuf-du-Pape even in July, summer simply is not the best time to showcase complex red wines. KEVIN HEWITT PHOTOGRAPHY/JUPITERIMAGES

Instead, stick with wines that are crisp, fruity and effervescent. After a few sips, you might even find you are chilling down, just like the wine. Pretty in Pink Rosé wine and summer are a perfect pair. They match up like blue cheese and figs, or prosciutto and melon. Throw in a baguette and a blanket and you’ve got the makings of a fantastic summer picnic, which is the best backdrop for drinking rosé. Over the past few years, as highquality pink wines have become more widely available in the U.S., rosé has become the quintessential wine of summer. Not sticky sweet white zinfandel, but lively, refreshing dry rosés with mouth-watering acidity, often from the south of France or northern Spain, but also from U.S. winemakers. Rosés are made with red wine grapes but have shorter contact with the grape skins, giving them their luscious color, which can range from light salmon to vibrant cherry.

From cider to limoncello, shake up your next summer cocktail party with our behind-the-bar recommendations at arrivemagazine.com

These are fun, simple wines, meant for sharing with friends at picnics and backyard barbecues, so dropping more than $20 on a bottle goes against the laid-back spirit of rosé. A Spanish rosada like Muga or a delicate rosé from Bandol in the south of France are good bets. Comeback Kid “Lambrusco, more than any other wine, is fun to drink,” says William Mattiello, the chef and owner of the Manhattan restaurant Via Emilia, which specializes in food and wine from the Emilia Romagna region of Italy, the home of lambrusco. “You pop it open, and it makes you happy.” If you associate lambrusco with Riunite, the semisweet red wine that was all the rage in the ’70s, it’s time to give it another shot; lambrusco is back, popping up on the wine lists of some sophisticated restaurants. The lambruscos being imported today, however, are fruity and dry and as much like the commercial juice as a pair of boot-leg jeans resembles bell bottoms.

Lambrusco, often a deep purple, makes a fine red wine choice in summer because it is served lightly chilled and has a hint of effervescence. Boutique lambrusco can still be hard to find in the U.S., but its availability is increasing. Via Emilia showcases about 15 varieties on its wine list, ranging in price from $27 to $35, and urban wine shops are also starting to carry it. Summer Fling The Iberian Peninsula has plenty of scorching summer days, so it’s no surprise that a wine from the northwestern corner of Spain— albariño—tastes particularly refreshing in July. Albariño comes from the Rías Baixas region of Spain, a coastal area known for its fishing villages, so expect a vibrant white wine that harmonizes pleasantly with seafood. This aromatic dry wine, paired with a citrus fish dish, could almost make you fall in love with a muggy summer evening—or at least make you dislike it a little less. Nora Rías Baixas is a crisp, enjoyable version that is easy to find, for about $15.

Fresh and Fizzy From the northwest of Portugal comes vinho verde, a crisp light wine that’s perky enough to give your taste buds a kick even on the most humid summer day. Vinho verde literally translates as “green wine,” but it’s actually a dry, white, slightly effervescent wine that sparkles on the tongue. The reference to green is for youth, not color, because vinho verdes are meant to be drunk soon after their release. Red vinho verdes also exist, but red versions are hard to find outside of Portugal. With the zip of lemon and apples and a slight fizz that adds an extra snap, white, unoaked, light-bodied vinho verde is a great choice to help offset summer’s sweltering temperatures. Plus, this light-hearted wine is reasonably priced. You can find drinkable versions like Ouro Verde vinho verde for as low as $7.


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UP to SPEED

Spring Eternal

They lost some top players to the Yankees, but the Trenton Thunder play on.

As you relax and enjoy your ride you might be thinking about what to do this weekend, or the next. How about taking in a jazz or blues concert? See the late Martha Graham’s modern dance vision alive on stage. Become a human fondue at the Vermont Chocolate Show. Take your pick of two international film festivals. Or, you could witness Patti LuPone channeling Mama Rose in Broadway’s Gypsy. That’s just the beginning of the events, festivals and artful adventures awaiting you around the Northeast Corridor through June. And Amtrak is waiting to take you there. Be sure to check out the special discount rail fares to select destinations— you can save some serious cash. Climb aboard and see all of the exciting places Amtrak can take you.

by Leonardo da Vinci and Mercator; and maps lent from great libraries of the world, including those of Queen Elizabeth II, housed in Windsor Castle, and the Library of Congress. The exhibit is the centerpiece of the Baltimore Festival of Maps, featuring more than 20 Baltimore-area arts and cultural organizations, presenting exhibitions of never-before-seen collections, interactive mapmaking activities, lectures and seminars. Through June. baltimorefestivalof maps.com or thewalters.org. Hon Fest: This nationally recognized festival covers four city blocks on 36th Street (The Avenue) in the neighborhood of Hampden, paying homage to the neighborhoods, language and people of Baltimore. The highlight of the day is the crowning of

Baltimore’s Best Hon, a contest in which people dress in a “hon” outfit—typically a ’60s-era beehive hairdo, eye shadow, spandex pants and leopard print clothing (and that’s just the guys!). June 14–15. Honfest.net. Silverdocs: AFI/Discovery Channel Documentary Festival: Bill Maher’s documentary Religulous opens the festival the Hollywood Reporter calls “the premiere showcase for documentary films.” One hundred documentaries from all over the world will be screened during this eight-day event in Washington D.C. Spike Lee is this year’s Guggenheim honoree. June 16–23. silverdocs.com. For the Maryland events, save 50 percent off the best available rail fare for one companion traveling in coach with a paid regular (full) adult rail fare ticket on Amtrak travel to Baltimore, MD. Valid for sale through Dec. 10, 2008, and for travel through

— COM P ILED BY MI C HA EL HA MMETT

MARYLAND American dance: The Philadelphia Dance Company (Philadanco) performs at Strathmore Hall in North Bethesda on May 16 as part of Mid-Atlantic Arts Foundation’s American Masterpieces Artistry & Influence Tour. The company performs a number of pieces from a repertoire


of innovative works by renowned American choreographers. 301-581-5100.

Philadanco in Maryland

Map quest: The Walters Art Museum hosts “Maps: Finding Our Place in the World,” a unique opportunity to view over 100 of the world’s most treasured maps, including those from ancient Rome and Babylonia; groundbreaking maps

PHILADANCO: LOIS GREENFIELD

MY CAR GETS .JMFTUPUIF(BMMPO

Amtrak® Auto Train® offers you the luxury of traveling up and down the east coast with your friends, family, and your car. Freedom is now yours. Sleep, watch a movie, or take in the view while you enjoy your complimentary meals. Your vacation begins here. For more information:

$BMM 1-877-SKIP-I-95 PSWJTJUAmtrak.com.

*REFERS TO GAS USAGE WHEN CAR IS ON THE AUTO TRAIN. AMTRAK AND AUTO TRAIN ARE REGISTERED SERVICE MARKS OF THE NATIONAL RAILROAD PASSENGER CORPORATION.

UP to SPEED Dec. 13, 2008. Request discount code V828 (Baltimore) or V722 (BWI or Washington, D.C.) when you book by calling 800-USA-RAIL. Visit Baltimore.org/deals for more information. See page 86 for blackout dates and other restrictions.

VERMONT Celebrate chocolate: The Vermont Chocolate Show at the Inn at Essex features chocolatiers, chefs and other vendors from Vermont and throughout the Northeast. The show includes educational programs, a chocolate art exhibit, product sales and other culinary activities. This is an opportunity for chocolate lovers of all ages to buy chocolate products, learn from noted Vermont pastry chefs and food experts, and dive into an array of chocolate spa treatments. May 17–18. vermontchocolateshow.com. Living history: The Vermont History Expo is a two-day summer festival where Vermonters and Vermonters-at-heart experience the state’s living history. The expo features distinctive exhibits from the collections of 150 local historical societies, museums and heritage attractions. For seven years, the last weekend in June at the Tunbridge World Fairgrounds has become the time for visitors to be immersed in a hands-on Vermont history lesson—in the spirit of fun and discovery. June 21–22. vermonthistory.org/expo. This offer is valid for 20 percent off the best available


Catch the Wilmington Grand Prix May 16-17—or compete!

regular (full) adult rail fare for coach travel to any Amtrak destination in Vermont when traveling on the Vermonter or Ethan Allen service. Valid for sale through Oct. 28, 2008, and valid for travel through Oct. 31, 2008. Request discount code V209 when you book by calling 800-USA-RAIL. See page 86 for blackout dates and other restrictions.

DELAWARE Jazz it up: Named for the late legendary jazz trumpeter and native son of Wilmington, the DuPont Clifford Brown Jazz Festival celebrates 20 years of free outdoor jazz music live in downtown Wilmington’s Rodney Square. The largest free jazz festival in the Mid-Atlantic region, the event attracts jazz legends of today and the stars of tomorrow. Previous performers include Herbie Hancock, Wynton Marsalis, David Sanborn and Sonny Rollins. June 15–22. Get jazzy: Cliffordbrownjazzfest.com. It’s like riding a bike: Bank of America Wilmington Grand Prix, in only its

second year of existence, has been added to the USA Cycling 2008 National Race Calendar—the race is now recognized as a national cycling event with all the status and recognition bestowed on similar nationally sanctioned races throughout the United States. The two-day event includes a downtown festival, BMX stunt riders, free bicycle tune-ups and repairs, musical performances and the Chase family bike parade—attempting to break the Guinness Book of World Records for largest bike parade. May 16-17. Wilmgrandprix.com. Celebrate freedom: Wilmington’s annual Independence Day Freedom Celebration offers live entertainment, a cool skating rink sponsored by DuPont, children’s rides and activities, a fabulous food court, the annual all-American baby contest, historical reenactments, special appearances by historical characters and a grand fireworks finale. Tubman-Garrett Riverfront Park, Wilmington. July 4. ci.wilmington.de.us.

Child stars: See the Broadway stars of tomorrow when students from the Delaware All-State Theatre Program take to the DuPont Theatre stage in a special production of Les Misérables Student Edition. Seventy-five of the area’s most talented young performers bring Victor Hugo’s classic characters to life in this epic story of struggle against adversity in 19th-century France. Performances in late June. jalexanderproductions.com. For the Delaware events, save 50 percent off the best available rail fare for one companion traveling in coach with a paid regular (full) adult rail fare ticket on Amtrak travel to Wilmington, DE. Valid for sale through Dec. 10, 2008, and for travel through Dec. 13, 2008. Request discount code V256 when you book by calling 800-USA-RAIL. See page 86 for blackout dates and other restrictions.

RHODE ISLAND Film fest: In just over a decade, the Newport International Film Festival (NIFF) has grown into one of America’s leading regional film festivals. The festival, which critics have

The Newport International Film Festival is known as a “Low-key Cannes.”

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