An American Among Orientals

AN AMERICAN THE ORIENTALS: INCLUDING AN AUDIENCE WITH THE SULTAN, AND A VISIT TO THE INTERIOR OF A TURKISH HAREM. ...

Author: JAMES E. P. BOULDEN | M.D.

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AN AMERICAN

THE ORIENTALS: INCLUDING AN

AUDIENCE WITH THE SULTAN, AND A

VISIT TO

THE

INTERIOR OF A TURKISH HAREM.

BY

JAMES

BOULDEN,

E. P.

M.D.

PHILADELPHIA:

LINDSAY

&

BLAKISTON.

1855.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1855,

BY LINDSAY & BLAKISTON, In the Clerk

s Office

of the District Court for the Eastern District of

Pennsylvania.

C.

SUEUMAN

& SON,

1

KIMERS.

\

/

PREFACE.

THE novel

characteristics of the

lar observances

they now stand

and

beliefs

;

Turks their singu ;

and the attitude

in

which

before the world, owing to the

com

plicated condition of the Russo-Greek question, invol it has, in a bloody struggle, not only Turkey and Russia, but the great Western powers of Europe, render authentic accounts of their manners and cus

ving, as

toms peculiarly interesting.

A

simple, unadorned,

but truthful narration of what came under. the author

s

observation during a few months sojourn at Constanti nople,

is all

that he has aimed at in the unpretending

volume now modestly submitted BALTIMORE, April 30, 1855.

to the public.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER Outward Bound Fairly off

I.

Yankee go-a-headiveness

Triumph of Steam

Glowing Fancies versus Sea-sickness

Recovery

25

dicrous Effects of the Ship s Motion,

CHAPTER Meditative Pleasures of Ocean Life

board

The Auctioneer

Betting

II.

Resources

on the

Kill

to

Ship

s

Ocean

Manners of

The

.30

CHAPTER the

Time on

Speed

Sailor Relieved,

The Smoking-Room

Lu

Ladies Saloon

Divine Service the Passengers,

III.

A Home Picture

Bishop Wainwright

Sunday on

Character and

35

CONTENTS.

XVI

CHAPTER Nearing Land

Anxiety increases

Coast of Ireland

St.

A

and Speeches

George

to

IV.

reach

Golden Sunset

The

Politeness of the Captain

America

Approach the

"

Wine .

V. Austrian

Accident

Sultan"

Seraglio Point

Ineffa

The Golden Horn 44

Amphitheatre of Beauty,

CHAPTER At Anchor Babel

A

Sleeping on Deck

Pera

Conflagrations

VI.

Confused Scene

Means of

Turkish versus American Firemen

A

A

extinguishing

Singular

Mode

Modern them

of showing

49

the Dissatisfaction of the Peoplo.

CHAPTER A

Ride

through

sians, &c.

VII.

Constantinople on Horseback

Nations and Costumes

40

His friendliness towards

City of the

Constantinople

Last Dinner

Embark on board an

Orient

Steamer

ble Beauty

"Fastinet Light"

Arrive at Liverpool.

CHAPTER Western Europe

it

The

Channel

s

People of

all

Turks, Greeks, Jews, Moors, Arabs, Per

Turkish and Armenian

Women The

Yashmak

Hamals, Donkeys, and Horses

and Pern

Their Peculiarities,

and

Perigee

Dogs of Constantinople ,

54

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER Ramazan

Its

s

clination to Seek for

Fondness

for the

The

Wives and Slaves Reason

The Harem

Number

The Salamnik

Luxu 60

Valleys of the

"

Arabian Jugglers

but one Wife

Dashing Steeds, 6G

X.

Audience with Sultan Abdul Medjid

The Bosphorus

Rowed by American

on beholding the Flag of our Native Land

tan

Palace

Mode of Presenting the Pipe Smoking Customs

Coffee

tion of our Veneration for the

Sultan

s

Magnificent

Abundance

Sarfs

Reach the

Our Appearance

Reception-Room

Their

Emo

Boat of the American Legation

tions

Mouth-pieces

"

s

Female costume

Amusements of the Men

CHAPTER Sailors

Turkish Wife

Sweet Waters of Europe and of

Ox Arabas

Picturesque Scenes

Asia"

IX.

of former allowed by the Koran

why Turks generally have

Extravagance

s

Oriental s In

Enjoyments of the Females,

CHAPTER

An

Pipe

Enjoyment amid the Abodes of the Dead

Separation of the Sexes rious

VIII.

Evening Scenes and Enjoyments

Rigid Observance

The Turk

Cafes

XVll

Amber and Jewelled

Turkish

Tobacco

Enter the Palace

Shadow

of

Sul

Pipe-Bearers

God on

Former

An Exhibi Earth"

The 70

"

Pages,"

2

CONTENTS.

XV111

CHAPTER XL Audience with the Sultan, continued Mr. Marsh

Turkish Salutation

s

Enter the Sultan

Speech

The

His Dress

Person

Description

of the

Diamonds

Inverted feet and their Cause

Sultan

s

compared with Mahmoud the Second His Reforms

the

Its

Empire

of Mr.

Brown

Cause

fendi

s

Palace

Presentation

.

.

.

.77

XII.

Astonishing

Number

The

Ef-

of Attendants

A Beautiful Eastern Picture Coffee, A Point of Etiquette Turkish Vanity Rose

and Pipes

A

The Conservatory

Leaf Preserves

Water, Flowers, Birds, and Sunshine

Eunuch

His Liberal

Innovations

European Sherbet,

as

Stagnation of

of the Minister of Foreign Affairs

Cavasses

Reply

Abdul Medjid

Unequal ness of Taxation

Backing-out Ceremonies,

Harem

Visit to the

s

Energy of the Latter

His want of Energy

CHAPTER

Apartment

Profusion of

Benevolence of the present Sultan

Policy towards Christians

s

Sultan

Accompanying Him

into the

Eden

into the Precincts of the

CHAPTER Follow the Eunuch

Little

apartments of the

Harem

Accompa

Madame Fuad s Chamber

to

Luxurious

Madame Fuad

Salutation

Harem, 84

XIII.

nied by Circassian slaves, ascend

Repose

Bubbling

Sudden Appearance of a

s

Manner and

CONTENTS. Her

Occupations

Interest

ment of the Slaves

Madame Fuad

Slavery

toms in our Country ship

Fuad Effendi

&c.

Accomplish Content

Bloomer"

in the East a

luxurious

Inquiries concerning Matrimonial Cus

Latticed

The Black Eunuch,

His Garden

"

Circassian Girls to be sold into

Young s

Windows

Part with Her

The Ladies

of Refreshments

Serving

Salamnik

Unlike the

Female Slavery

Desire of the

Captivity

Their

in her Slaves

Turkish Female Dress

ments

XIX

Lady

return to

the

Harem

the Guardian Spirit of the

His Intelligence and Reformatory Sentiments

Miniature

Lake

Swiss Cottage

Birds,

Statues,

91

Departure,

CHAPTER The European

Passport System

ness of the Turks

The

XIV.

Its

Sultan

s

Annoyances

Firman

A

showing the Peculiar Style of Oriental Verbiage

Use Horses and Mules

Turkey

Merchandize nificent Steeds

The Camel

Unsuspicious-

Translation of

Transportation of

Picturesque Effect of a Caravan of Camels Scarcity of the Full-blooded

the Village of Belgrade

A

Arab

A

Mag

Ride

Justinian

Return

to

98

Therapia,

CHAPTER s

to

and Diversified Scene

Beautiful

Lady Mary Wortley Montague Grand Aqueduct of The Valley of Buyucdere Godfrey de Bouillon

Mahomet

it,

Travelling in

XV.

Injunctions as to Cleanliness

Supply of the Aqueous Element

Ample

Provision

for

a

Magnificent Baths, Fountains

CONTENTS.

XX

Bends of Belgrade

Aqueducts, &c.

Go through

Turkeys do Preparation Clogs

Room

Enter a

The Operator

Room

hotter

still

Primitive Costume

His Manipulating and Kneading Process

Bath continued

CHAPTER

XVI.

A

A

"

Man

Used-up

pense

Not Quite Washed

Alive

Hold!

Enough!

Remedial Advantages

Mahomedan

Delicious State of Sus

Away Rough

Skinned

Scrubbing

A Coat of Lather Al Mummy Costume Siesta

Obesity of the Turks

Fountains

Establishments

"

"Macaroni"

The Bath Finished

most Suffocated

Sultans

Number of Bathing

Expressive Inscriptions Propitiating

the

Bounty of

Prophet and Pur 112

chasing the Joys of Paradise,

CHAPTER Religious Devotion of the Turks

The Koran

Turkish Superstition

The

"

Fatalism of the Turks

Assurances of Happiness,

XVII.

Unjust Condemnation of

Prayer and Charity

Grave

Sore

107

Effects,

the

The

Wooden

After Preparation

of Higher Temperature

of the System enter a

Turkey as the

Turkish Towels

Change of Dress

Room

in

Doing

the Ordeal of a Turkish Bath

Example for Evil Eye" Charms Apathy

Them

Christians

The Giant s

Recklessness in Battle

117

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER tioning

Angel"

Mahomedan Heaven Turk

s

The

s

Drawn

Soul

Heaven

XVIII.

out through the

Christianity

to his

"Ques

Mouth

The

The Unbeliever

Houris

Celestial

Prejudices against Christians

Attachment

The

Funeral Practices

Hurried Burials

Singular Beliefs

XXI

s

The

Religious Liberty

Rarity of his Conversion to

Religion

American Missionaries

at Constantinople,

.

123

CHAPTER XIX. The Mahomedan Sabbath Peculiar into the

Mode

Mosques

Harrison

Separation of the Sexes in the Mosques

of Worship

How

Requirements

obtained

to

gain Admittance

Bayard Taylor and

his friend

Harrison having succeeded in visiting Mecca in the

guise of a Turk, attempts to enter a Is detected

Beats a Retreat

Mosque

Mosque

of

in the St.

same Costume

Sophia

A

sacred

127

Repository of Valuables,

CHAPTER XX. The

Sultan Going to and Returning from

cession

The Royal Barge

The Howling Dervishes Wild Fanaticism

Mosque Moslem Summons

of Scutari

of Pera

Brilliant to

Pro

Worship

Their Thrilling Ceremonies

Torturing Instruments

The Whirling Dervishes Learned Patriarchs,

A

Closing Scenes

Exclusion of the Females

133

XX11

N T E N T S.

C

CHAPTER XXL Turkish Cemeteries

Cemetery of Scutari

Mingled Scene

Down Among the

Examples 138

Soul,

CHAPTER "

Cy

Carvings and

Character of the Epitaphs

Eyoub

Inscriptions

Woman s

Their Vastness

Turbaned Stones

press Trees

Females

the

Dead

Of

the Janissaries

XXII.

Female Resorts

Men"

Tombstones of

Separate Burying Grounds

Characteristics of the Turkish, Armenian, Jewish, &c., Cemeteries

Disinclination of the

Turk

be Buried in European

to

Belief as to the Ultimate Fate of at the Close

His

Soil

Consolation

European Turkey

Mausoleum of Mahmoud

of his Mortal Career

II.,

143

CHAPTER The Ramazan, naticism

or

Holy Month

The

Caiques

A

Spoken

Koran

Rigid Observances

Ancient Prejudices dying out

Their causes

Boat

XXIII.

A

Confused Scene

Oblivious

Polyglot

Scene

in the Orient Brilliant

Olive-Oil-Fed

Female

The

Great

Illumination in

Scene

Lamps

Turk

at

Tophane

The Ships

Changes

Afloat

Religious for the

Fa

better

Large Number of

Curiosity

The Bazaar

Variety of

Languages

Honor of the Descent of the

Constantinople Illumined by in the

Golden Horn

lit

up, 147

CONTEJsTS.

XX111

CHAPTER XXIV. Grand Pyrotechnic Display

Turkish Soldiery

A

The Royal Barge

Calm

Self-denial of his Highness

the Heights of Pera

Proximity

at

Cannon

He

Return

to

Prays

Its

Turbulent Elements

to the

Ascend

Shore

The Turkish Guard, Mustapha

and heterogeneous Throng

mode

Firing of

Abdul Medjid

Annual Presentation of a new Wife

Effulgent Display

Sultan

Sultan

A

dense

Dangerous

One of our Female Companions alarmed Summary Watch An exciting Struggle Arrive safely

of Stealing a

155

Home,

CHAPTER XXV. The Bairam

The

mented by the

Sultan

Saluted by His Wives, and Compli

Dignitaries of the

Beautiful Picture

Land

The Corban Bairam

A Brilliant Procession Great Killing of Sheep,

162

CHAPTER XXVI. TURKISH WEDDING. Marriage negotiated by Female Relatives out

by them

Falling in

The Baths

frequently Visited

"

Fair

Expensive but Convenient

to

A mode Modest

One

"

sought

Courting by Proxy

Love without seeing the Object loved

Presents to the Expected Bride tion

The

Handsome

of Popping the Ques

Suitors

Assembling of

CONTENTS.

XXIV Friends ties

The Lady

escorted to the Bridegroom

Tying of the Nuptial Knot

The

s

House

Festivi

Bride and Bridegroom un

Coquetting in the Bridal

seen by each other before Marriage

165

Chamber,

CHAPTER XXVII. The Eastern War

Its

Cause

American Sympathies

Motives of the Three Great Powers

War upon

Our Policy

Turkish Manners and Customs,

CHAPTER

.

.

Actuating

Effects of the

.170

XXVIII.

HOMEWARD BOUND. Leave Constantinople Charybdis

Malta

Pompeii

by a Storm

Home Again

Florence

Rome

Sicily Its

Genoa

Conclusion,

A

Gale between Scylla and

Antiquities

Return

Driven into Elba

to Paris

Our Route

AN AMERICAN AMONG THE ORIENTALS.

CHAPTER Outward Bound Fairly off

Triumph of Steam

Glowing Fancies

dicrous Effects of the Ship

WE

s

I.

Yankee go-a-headiveness

versus Sea-sickness

Recovery

Lu

Motion.

live in a steam-propelling age.

The waters of

every sea and river, from whose margins barbaric darkness has vanished before the glorious light of

human

progress and civilization, are furrowed by the

revolving wheel of the steam-driven vessel. Old ocean is

crossed in a trice, and the voyager who, ten days

previously, was threading

Broadway and admiring

the expanding greatness of our metropolitan city,

now gazing from don

s

the

world of brick,

dome tile,

of St. Paul s upon

and humanity.

As

is

Lon

in the

accomplishment of almost every other object, so in 3

TRIUMPH OF STEAM.

26

the achievements and accompaniments of steam does

Yankee go-a-headiveness carry competitors

off

the palm from all

and as no other nation can compare

;

with us in regard to the number, vastness, comfort, magnificence, and speed of our noble floating palaces that ply the Hudson, the Ohio, the Mississippi, or

push boldly out to the most distant

any other people by the aid of eternity so fast as we.

Is

it

seas, neither does

said agents hurry into

that

we

are such a de

cidedly fast nation that, not content with the ordinary

rapid progression that forms a daily characteristic of

our American pressure

mode

life,

we must have some speedy, high-

of exit from existence, the natural pro

cess of life s ebbing to a close being too slow

and tame

for us ?

Seriously speaking, however, let us trust that ere

long the rapid transits from one section to another of our extensive country will be attended by more plete guarantees of safety than at present lative interference will

But

it

is

feel

many

calamitous

not upon the high seas, as

upon our inland waters,

we need

that legis

check that unpardonable care

lessness that has recently caused so results.

;

com

that, in

it

is

an American steamer,

any peculiar apprehension of suddenly

soaring aloft, becoming charred, or meeting with a

FAIRLY OFF.

27

watery grave and with the comfortable assurance of a fort safety and almost certainly that in less than ;

night

we

will

be mingling in Old World scenes,

let us,

during the pleasant month of May, step on board the Baltic on the eve of her departure across the

North

Atlantic.

The

last earnest

grasp of the hands and the fond

The booming

pressure of parting friends are over.

cannon and the plaudits of the assembled multitude announce that we are fairly off, and ere the lapse of but a few hours

Castle

Garden, Governor

and

s,

Staten Islands, are between us and our place

Before night has enveloped us in

embarkation.

of its

dark shades we are probably careering over At lantic s waves,

and the receding shores of America

have vanished behind the swelling waters.

Now,

"good night," and expe rienced that feeling of isolation that comes over one

having bid our native land

who, for the

first time, is at sea,

we

retire to our

berth to indulge in bright fancies of Europe dors or dream of

Yain hope

!

"the

friends

we

left

s

splen

behind

us."

Happy dreams and glowing fancies

bless us not, but in lieu of them, prostrating every

mental and physical energy, are effects of the ship s

all

the nauseating

unsteady motion.

A

sleepless,

SEA-SICKNESS.

28

The morning dawns, yet not give, if we

restless night is passed.

What would we

brings us not relief.

could only stay that horrid motion, and indulge in the briefest quietude delicious,

is

Food, that on land would be

!

At

indignantly rejected.

length, tired

of confinement in a narrow berth, we venture upon

deck

but,

;

side

no sooner have we attained the ship

s

and looked out upon the bright expanse of

waters, than a sickly,

deadly feeling,

those majestic waves, other ivise so

comes upon us

;

our stomach, with

;

by

much admired,

a feeling that no pen can describe,

horrible to the last degree. lently

created

Our head aches

all its

vio

contents, and these

lend a bitter taste indeed to the tongue, appears to

be crowding up into our throat and seeking an exit, which every motion of the vessel creates in us a longing desire to afford reel, the ship s

happens

to

be nearest

;

;

;

we

hold of any object that

seize

wish we had never been so

foolish as to leave the firm earth,

again

We

but without avail.

unsteady motion unbalances us

against and

totter

it,

vow we never

will

look for sympathy in the face of some fellow-

passenger, but find

it

not, for

perchance he

is

in the

same plight as ourselves are about to give up in despair, and abandon ourselves to our sad fate, when ;

EFFECTS OF THE SHIP

MOTION.

S

one tremendous, but friendly lurch, produces a

29 feel

ing that cannot be resisted, and with one mighty

heave we dislodge our bilious accumulations, and our

New York

dinner of the previous day, together into

the gulping waves, and thus find temporary relief.

Now, rest in

though

for the first time,

what

is

we begin

transpiring around

suffering so

much

motion, which made us

an inte actually,

antics

which that

sick, causes the passengers to

One man, thrown

perform.

We

a short time before, find

amused by the queer

ourselves

to take

us.

dignity and his

off his

feet simultaneously, suddenly discovers himself (for a

very brief time, however) in a lady

s

lap

;

a couple

promenading the deck are jostled violently and unce remoniously together, at the expense of each other ribs.

A

walk

is

suddenly accelerated by the ship

descending motion, or retarded by

its

the table, wine intended for the lips

uprising. is

s s

At

precipitated

over the breast, ingloriously marring that splendid sentiment,

that

we were about

to put forth,

proposing the health of the ladies near us.

when

CHAPTER Meditative Pleasures of Ocean Life

The Auctioneer

board

Betting

II.

Resources

on the

Kill

to

Ship

s

Time on The

Speed

Sailor Relieved.

GRADUALLY, as time flies and the ship speeds we become accustomed to its every motion.

on,

We

have at length thoroughly recovered from our sea sickness.

Now we

feel like

new beings

;

there

is

sensation of buoyancy, of elasticity about us that

never

been

felt

before

sick, so

Now bilities,

we

charming

actually rejoice that is

the recovery from

we have it.

we have experienced all the disagreeawe can the more keenly relish the pleasures

that

of an ocean to gaze

;

a

we

life.

These are afforded those who love

upon the grand and beautiful in nature, to

view the rolling billows chasing and o erleaping each other to the horizon

sun

s

s

verge,

now

noontide effulgence, or anon

sparkling with the lit

up by

his

more

subdued rays when sinking in the western sky

;

or

MEDITATIVE PLEASURES. that

more lovely scene afforded by the

31

clear tranquil

firmament at night "Where,

one by one, the living eyes of Heaven

arise,

Quick kindling o er the face of ether

One boundless blaze

and night

deep."

water,

bright queen sheds

down her

softest light

glittering waves.

upon the It is

s

;"

now, too, we are

As we

filled

with

"meditation

look upon the

sublime in

its

the eternal agitation of

mighty expanse of vastness, its profundity, and

its

bosom, we fully realize the

wondrous power of the Great Creator of the elements and our own insignificance; the conviction comes

home to us

that

we

are in the hands of

One who could

speedily ride in tempest over the sea, and sink us

within

its

lowermost depths.

Growing

less

serious in our contemplations,

we

dwell upon that partial mastery over the elements

which the genius of to traverse

man has

achieved, that enables us

seas, to visit distant continents

mighty and the farthest islands, whilst yet surrounded by the comforts and luxuries of home upon the motive ;

power of steam, that has converted the Atlantic into a moderate sized lake, and brought the eastern and

RESOURCES TO KILL TIME.

32

western hemispheres

days of each other

-within ten

;

and a proud, a happy feeling pervades our breasts when we remember that our own country is inferior to

no other in accomplishing these grand

But

let us

results.

turn from the meditative to the practical

resources adopted on board to

make

the time pass

away agreeably.

What

"

Going, going, gone possible

wares

?

an auctioneer

is

s

that

?

It is not

on board disposing of

his

No, not exactly disposing of merchandize,

but there he regular

!"

is,

surrounded by half the passengers, a

New York

auctioneer, well acquainted with

the arts of his profession, urging upon the bystanders the value of a number.

Humor plays upon

tenance, wit shines in all his sayings.

his

coun

With many a

and whimsical remark he keeps his Even grave D.D. s a roar of laughter.

droll expression

audience in

and

ladies, too, participate in the

But what

scene.

Let us explain.

is

The

he selling ship

?

enjoyment of the I hear you ask.

makes every twenty-four

hours a number of miles, somewhere between 250 and

320

;

this distance is ascertained

every day at twelve

During the morning the auction takes place, each bidder having had an opportunity of judging what distance the ship ought to have made o clock.

RESOURCES TO KILL TIME. since twelve o clock of the previous day.

ferent

from the

numbers, ranging

33

So the

dif

lowest to the

and that gentleman purchasing the

highest, are sold,

number corresponding with the ship to the pool. The sales are quite

s

speed

is

exciting

entitled

and the

bids spirited.

The

auctioneer,

and he

of fun and frolic, begins that that

awake

is

is

by

a genuine specimen, full offering 250.

the winning number.

for several hours and.

He

insists

Last night he laid

heard something wrong

about the machinery, in consequence of which the ship sailed miserably slow

;

so he contends that the

holder of that number will be a lucky fellow.

After

considerable praising and puffing

it is

John Smith

Then the succeed

for a few shillings.

knocked

off to

ing numbers, each strongly recommended as the one, are disposed

the auctioneer growing more and

of,

more racy and eloquent as he nears the ne plus ultra. Three hundred and twenty is offered. Here his utmost ingenuity last

number, the "

pound."

why

last chance,

Paugh, that

look at the

sails,

with so fine a breeze

how they

taxed.

is

s

a

"

Gentlemen,

what

trifle for

s

bid

it is "

?"

the

One

such a number

;

did you ever see canvass filled ?

revolve, and

And tell

look at those wheels

me we

are not making

THE SAILOR EELIEVED.

34

fourteen knots an hour.

hour

I saw the captain about an

and he told me that we were making a

since,

and here, gentlemen, allow me to cor I was rect myself about being awake last night. under a slight mistake. Since this sale begun I have capital run

;

reasoned the matter with myself, and discover that

was

all

a dream about our going slow.

neers assure so bid

briskly for

up

At

mistake."

ment,

is

it

me that the machinery worked 320

;

it is

it

The engi admirably ;

the number,

and no

length, in the midst of wit and merri

sold.

Thus ends the auction

for that

day.

These

sales, at first glance,

gambling

;

appear to be a species of

but when we are acquainted with the fact

that one-half of the proceeds goes to the relief of

the poor sailor

we are not apt

to

condemn them.

CHAPTER The Smoking-Room

Ladies Saloon

the Ocean

Divine Service

Manners of

the Passengers.

AFT

is

A Home Picture

At

all

when the number

Sunday on

Character and

Bishop Wainvvright

the smoking-room.

cially after dinner,

III.

hours, but espe is

increased, are

here gathered, engaged in conversation or lost in forgetfulness

amid the fumes of choice Cuba

leaf,

those

whose stomachs are not peculiarly disposed to suc cumb to the combined influence of the ship s see-saw motion and the dense atmosphere of the place. Below, in the magnificently furnished ladies saloon, where, but for the jarring motion of machinery and

an occasional lurch of the boat, one would fancy him self in one of the most splendidly adorned and com fortably arranged drawing-rooms of America,

tered an agreeable

company

around a piano, listening to the a young lady

is

soft strains of

skilfully touching the keys,

with their harmony her

own

is

clus

of ladies and gentlemen

clear voice,

music ;

mingling

whose dulcet

SUNDAY ON THE OCEAN.

36

warblings, seconded

by a gentleman

s

strong bass,

form a strange and delightful contrast with the rush It is indeed a home picture, ing element without. that group around the singers and the instrument

those four indulging in a social

damask

game

of whist

;

;

those

and indo

velvet cushions tempting to ease

mirrors, large and costly, reflecting every object in the room those domestics hurrying here and there with the most delicious fruits the in

lence

those

;

;

;

nocent prattle of children in their nurse

tumbling over the

floor

s

laps or

and that friendly

;

social

feeling pervading the assembly.

But ocean

!

it

Sunday

is

No

Sunday

in the midst of

the

loud and prolonged succession of church-

on land, in a Christian country, breaks upon the stillness of the morn. One single bell, rung measuredly, reminds us that it is the Sabbath of the

bell peals, as

Lord, and summons us to His worship

solemn and impressive

Divine service out on that

is

boundless waste of waters aft

saloon,

and how

;

!

There, gathered in the

and with attentive ears

listening to the

eloquent pleadings of some such eminent divine as

Dr. Wainwright, of

New

York,* are Christians of

* This gentleman, then a delegate

to the

World

s

all

Convention,

CHARACTER AND MANNERS.

37

creeds, forgetting their sectarian prejudices, kneeling

and singing the praises of one common Re deemer, and acknowledging His omnipotence. What

down

to,

more meet for such acknowledgment ? Under what circumstances could we feel ourselves more pal place

pably in the power of God, or so readily appreciate

and insignificance in

our individual worthlessness

contrast with His glory and might

?

Having noticed some of the most prominent events that lend an interest to a

sea-voyage, let us look

about us and see what variety of people, character,

and manners we have on board.

Here

who

is

some such bet

a real Jonathan, from

down

"away

East,"

saunters about in truly republican style, whistling air as

any amount

tion"

in

"Hail

"

that

Columbia,"

America

is

and

"willing

ahead of

any thing you can start; there

is

"

all

a

to

crea

warm

blooded Southerner from the cotton country, on his

way

to lands where,

yet doth

it

though slavery exist not in form,

in principle.

Walking hurriedly up and

down

the deck, ready for a upon the first sound of the dinner gong, are a couple of young "bolt"

Englishmen, who have been making a tour through was

a fellow-passenger of the writer, on board the Baltic, in

of 52.

4

May

CHARACTER AND MANNERS.

38

the States, and are

now

returning, after a year

absence from their own country, with

many

s

a pre

conceived notion and prejudice in reference to ours dispelled

by observation

venerable divines are there,

;

visiting the old as ecclesiastic representatives of the

new world;

book-writers too are on board, taking

notes, with the view some day of edifying the world

with the results of their observation. are

men

or

women whose

Here and there

feeble motions

and

pallid

countenances convince us that they are seeking, in the briny

air,

the tumultuous action of the sea, a change

of scene, &c., that precious boon, good health; men whose heads are covered with the frosts of age are

now

for the first time venturing over the great deep

;

middle-aged and youth, the latter fresh from the trammels of collegiate life and glowing with the en the miss not yet emerged from and ardent romantic, her mind filled with

thusiasm of travel her teens,

;

bright anticipations of those lands of beauty and of

song that have long impressed themselves upon the dreams of her youth, and upon which, ere long, she hopes to gaze and tread visit to his friends in

;

the diplomat, after a brief

America, returning

able post at a foreign court to purchase the fabrics of

;

to his

honor

merchants on their way

Western Europe, which a

CHAEACTEK AND MANNERS.

39

goodly portion of our fellow-citizens deem superior to our own, not always because they have a firmer texture or

more perfect

its

being supposed that the productions of a foreign

finish,

but

oft,

I ween, on account of

loom must necessarily surpass our own; gentlemen retired from the busy scenes of money-making life, now spending their time and their means for the re laxation, entertainment, travel

;

and information afforded by

people speaking various languages, the loqua

Frenchman, the gesticulating Spaniard, the meerschaum-smoking, beer-drinking German, and cious

even the short-cropped Russian, are in social

may

harmony

like

all

there, mingling

one large family.

Whatever

be their individual tastes, their personal, sec

tional, or national prejudices, these are all

into a desire to please

and

to be pleased;

merged

no angry

words are spoken, no unpleasant scenes are witnessed ; all act like persons moving on to the harmonious accomplishment of one grand purpose.

CHAPTER Nearing Land

Anxiety increases

Coast of Ireland

A

and Speeches

AT

length

breasts

George

reach

to

Channel

s

Golden Sunset

we near the

"Fastinet Light"

it

Wine

The Last Dinner

Arrive at Liverpool.

shores of Europe, and our

heave with new delight that our voyage,

pleasant as

we

St.

IV.

it

has been,

are soon once

more

is

about to terminate

to set our foot

that

;

upon something

stable, our eyes on aught else beside the tossing wave.

We days

;

think not so

much

we

a certain time must elapse before

feel that

we can reach

of land

when

the shore for which

out but a few

we are

destined,

and with a commendable philosophy divert our minds with whatever is transpiring around us but, when ;

we are steering how anxious we become, how we

conscious that the land toward which is

not far distant,

long for a glance of

it,

how we

stretch our vision

elevate the captain s^spy-glass to discern the outlines on the distant horizon

!

And then

first

and

faint

the inter

val between the first cheerful glimpse of, and our

COAST OF IRELAND. arrival at,

it,

But

we have

appears longer than any day

spent on the Atlantic retreat,

41

and we

;

the shores actually appear to

feel as if

we never

in the course of time the

reach them.

will

"Fastinet Light,"

stand

ing out in majestic relief upon an isolated rock, the

ocean dashing in restless breakers around stands high and firm, as

ments,

is

passed.

hundred and

if in

it,

Soon, upon the verge of a

fifty feet

whilst

it

proud defiance of the ele

above high water,

is

hill

four

perceived

Cape Clear lighthouse, whilst deep valley and high hill

follow each other in quick succession, almost every

revolution of the wheels developing

new

objects along

the rock-bound coast of Ireland, whose general aspect,

though dreary else, yet gladdens now the voyager s weary vision, and enables him to perceive, in the dis tant hills crowned with

manor residences and

sur

rounded by parks, the white-crested waves dashing against the rocky shore, the Irish craft ploughing the

waves, with light fleecy clouds hovering over beautiful

all,

a

and pleasant picture.

And now

the great ocean

is

crossed.

We

are in

George Channel, and with bounding hearts view every object on land and water that denotes our near approach to port. We go below and partake of our St.

s

last dinner.

This occasion, we find, affords a fine 4*

42

A

GOLDEN SUN SET. The wine

opportunity for the display of eloquence. that

day

The noble

furnished by the captain.

is

and seaman-like, of that gentleman, are spoken of in the most laudatory terms reference is had to the prosperous voyage that is about to ter qualities, social

;

minate, to the intercommunication existing between

the two enlightened countries of England and rica,

Ame

produced mainly through the medium of the mag an in

nificent steamers of the respective countries

;

tercourse calculated not only to promote their interests

and prosperity, but advantageous liberal

to

produce a social and political

on countries

effect

and beneficent

institutions

less favored ;

allusion

is

with

made

to

the great harmony existing between the passengers during the whole voyage, &c.

Everything passes off very agreeably at the table, and after a pretty heavy imbibition of champagne, the passengers

all

once more assemble upon deck.

their last evening

the extreme

;

on board

;

the sunset

the golden orb goes

splendor behind the Irish over land and sea

;

hills,

blue vault of heaven.

by

St.

George

beautiful in in radiant

casting a halo of glory

soon a lovely crescent moon, with

bright stars for her companions, lights

sleep

is

down

It is

up the clear

That night we are rocked to and the following morn-

s billows,

ARRIVE AT LIVERPOOL. ing, greeted

by the American

flags in the

43 Mersey, ar

rive at Liverpool.

We

are taken to shore in a small steamer, into

which we

we

all

crowd, the gentlemen standing.

are moving

off,

we

Just as

give three hearty cheers for the

and noble ship that have brought us over the Atlantic and with no slight feel

gallant officers so safely

ing of regret do

;

we part with

either, or entertain the

thought that we are nearing the point of separation

from many agreeable acquaintances whom we have met on board, and whom perchance we may never see again.

In a few minutes we

effect a landing,

soon comfortably accommodated at the in Liverpool.

and are

"

Adelphi,"

CHAPTER Western Europe

The

Embark on board an

Orient

Steamer

Politeness of the Captain

America

Approach the

ble Beauty

"City

Constantinople

V.

of the

Austrian

His friendliness towards Sultan"

Seraglio Point

Accident

Ineffa

The Golden Horn

Amphitheatre of Beauty.

WESTERN EUROPE modern

tourist that

is

so thoroughly described

we deem

it

by the

superfluous to tire

the patience of the reader by dwelling on the scenes

we witnessed whilst traversing England, France, Italy, The quaint old cities, and the Switzerland, &c. noble and venerable palaces and cathedrals of the continent, are

reader streets,

as if

almost as

familiar

to

the general

he had wandered through their historic

gorgeous apartments, and sacred

aisles.

Supposing that you, kind reader, are as anxious, as were we, to reach that portion of the world, the

very reference to which

stirs

up romantic and poeti

cal emotions, the beauteous Orient, with its luxurious

clime, the novel

and picturesque manners and

cos-

AN AUSTRIAN STEAMER. tumes of

we

its

invite

its fair

people,

you

to

45

and lovely daughters,

embark with us

&c.,

at Trieste, in

an

Austrian steamer, for Constantinople.

The captain of the

"Asia"

was extremly

polite to

us during the whole of our very pleasant voyage,

from Trieste to Constantinople; prised us, as

we were under

the Austrians

which rather sur

the impression that from

we would, being Americans,

of that

country which had offered so safe a shelter to their

most dangerous and incivility.

foe,

meet with nought but rudeness

Captain Poiret made frequent mention of America,

most friendly terms. He referred to the rapid advancement of the arts and sciences in our

and

in the

country, spoke of the

American inventive

genius, of

He

the superiority of our ships and steamers.

ap

peared to honor the names of Washington, Franklin,

and Fulton.

Upon my

telling

all creation in the

him that we rather went ahead of

way of

you go ahead most

too

steaming, he said,

fast,

you go up, and then,

bursts,

"Yes,

sometimes the boiler adieu!"

He had

heard something about certain accidents which occa sionally occur on our

As

a

Western waters.

general thing, the

captains of European

ACCIDENT.

46

steamers are very cautious.

an explosion

As we

is

all

race,

sailed over the placid waters of the

mora, and approached the

was

They never

and

a very rare event with them.

"

impatience to see that

City of the

Mar

Sultan,"

I

famous place, that had

and beauteous picture in my Long before "old Sol" had reddened

so long been a bright

imagination.

morn

the east, on the

that

a glimpse of the distant

we

anticipated catching

city, I

hurried on deck, ex

pecting to see its manifold beauties unfolded in all their glory

I was

with

;

but alas

doomed

its

to

!

for the fallacy of

human

hopes,

instead of the city,

disappointment

populous suburbs, a broad expanse of water,

only bounded by the horizon, was

all

that greeted

my

vision.

An

accident occurred during the night, which so

implicated the boat

machinery, that we had to be

s

by a Turkish and English steamer; and so slowly did we advance, that the sun had passed the zenith ere we came in sight of old

towed up

to

Stambool.

mosques, trees,

its

the

It

city

was two o

clock,

p.

M.,

when

its

towering minarets and mournful cypress

appeared in the distance

;

and how inadequate

to the task of describing the scene that then pre

sented itself do I feel

!

CONSTANTINOPLE.

47

All the glowing fancies which had, for half lifetime,

filled

magnificence, "Arabian

as

my

mind, of oriental splendor and

my so

graphically portrayed

in

appeared to be realized.

Nights,"

the

Mil

lions of reams of paper and oceans of ink have been consumed, and the human language almost exhausted

in faint endeavors to describe the glorious nificent picture afforded

Sea of Marmora,

by

and mag

the approach, from the

To

to Constantinople.

from the Western world the scene

is

so

the traveller

new and pe

from anything he has ever before witnessed, so novel and oriental withal,

culiar, so essentially different

as to appear

more

like a strangely beautiful

dream,

which the waking senses will dissipate, than a palpa

He

ble reality.

has dwelt upon the beauty and gran

deur of the French metropolis; with alternate awe

and admiration looked down from the giddy heights of the Alpine passes

;

or feasted his eyes

ravishing loveliness of Switzerland

and valleys

;

the

"

City of the Sea

s "

upon the

matchless lakes

has charmed his

vision, the beautiful Venice

itself, where the tranquil waters of the Adriatic lave the marble steps of a

thousand palaces, and where there

and

all

is all

of tradition

of glory in the associations of the past to

give a zest to the enjoyment of the beauteous pre-

AMPHITHEATRE OF BEAUTY.

48 sent

;

yet have

so great

all

these failed to

admiration as the scene now before him.

Proudly there, upon tinople;

awaken within him

its

its

seven

hills,

stands Constanti-

gilded mosques and minarets flashing

back, with a golden hue, the sun

s

resplendent rays.

Seraglio Point looks like a miniature Paradise, with

many domes

so charmingly commingled with the and in forms itself a complete Eastern cypress, pic ture of grace and loveliness.

its

When we selves within its

rounded Seraglio Point, we found our an amphitheatre of beauty. The city,

suburbs both on the European and Asiatic shores ;

the Bosphorus lined with gardens and palaces; the

Golden Horn

filled

with ships from w hose masts r

floated the flags of all nations

;

the large war-ships of

the Sultan, one or two of which carry one hundred

and forty guns

;

the thousands of slim and graceful

caiques that shot about in every direction over the surface of the water, filled with grave Turks, robed in the fanciful

combined

to

and flowing garments of the East

make up

this matchless picture.

all

CHAPTER At Anchor Babel

A

Sleeping on Deck

Pera

A

Confused Scene

Means

Conflagrations

A

Turkish versus American Firemen ,

VI.

of extinguishing Singular

Mode

Modern them

of showing

the Dissatisfaction of the People.

AT of

length the rattling chain announced the sinking

the anchor, and

harbor.

we came

to a standstill in the

In connection with the scene which then

ensued, I would remark that the Turk, be he a Pasha, or one of the lowest subjects of the realm, scarcely

He

ever goes below in a ship.

prefers spreading his

bed upon the open deck, where he can enjoy the fresh breezes of Heaven. One-half of our aft deck,

it

being separated by a

temporary partition from the other

half, or first class

passenger part, was completely covered with mat tresses, over which were strewn men, women, and children, reclining at night,

and squatting d

la

Turque

through the day.

When we had

fairly stopped, there 5

was a general

PER A.

50 confusion

;

our oriental passengers were the chief ac

tors in the scene

;

there was a grand resurrection of

bodies that had been in a semi-recumbent position for

four or five days and nights

;

an universal folding up

and arranging of beds and bedding; a squabbling

among the children chattering among much talk and smoke among the men ;

the ;

around the steamer were hovering caiques,

women

;

whilst all filled

with

Turks, Greeks, Armenians, &c., running in contact

with each other, quarrelling, crying out to the pas sengers, shrieking in all languages

;

thus rendering the

scene a perfect Babel.

In an hour or two we found ourselves deserted by

most of the caiques and passengers, leaving us sur rounded by

soliciting

we had

despatched, as

hotel agents,

whom we

soon

pretty well learned, during our

travels on the continent,

how

to proceed in quest of

quarters without the assistance of a dozen advisers. r

That night w e were comfortably fixed in Pera, which is mostly inhabited by Franks and, being sepa ;

rated from Constantinople quite a distinct city.

mostly large,

and of

by

the Golden Horn,

The houses of late years

is

this place are

have been built of

stone, to prevent the fearful ravages so frequently

made

there

by

fires.

CONFLAGRATIONS. They are generally constructed style

and

frame tenements of the Turks.

me

minds

that for a

month

we were

in the

European

contrast with the small

afford a striking

in Constantinople,

51

Speaking of

fires re

or two after our arrival in the midst of

them.

I

had often heard of the destructive conflagrations with which that city was afflicted, but certainly was not prepared

to find

them occurring

Eleven large

did.

fires

so frequently as they

occurred within a few weeks,

the last destroying about three thousand houses, and

turning five thousand families into ^the streets. looks really terrible to see the

It

devouring element

lighting up the whole heavens at night, demolishing

miles of houses, and rendering so

many wretched peo

ple homeless.

There are not those ing

fires

that

we have

efficient

in the

means of extinguish

United States, and the

firemen of our country would be amused at the appa ratus used,

men

and the inducements which

to work.

The engine

is

set the fire

so small that

it

can be

worked by four men. It is carried on their shoulders and is supplied with water by hamals or porters who convey

it

in

leathern

vessels

strapped on

their

backs.

The firemen

will not stir

an inch towards rescuing

SINGULAR MODE OF SHOWING

52

a house until they have received a backshish or pay

ment

in

What

money.

a contrast this affords with

the conduct of those gallant firemen of our cities so heroically peril life

and limb,

for

no compensation,

to save the property of their fellow-citizens

How

often have I wished,

when

who

?

the devouring ele

ment was soaring triumphantly, that an American engine, worked by American firemen, was present to However, the

arrest its progress.

narrow

for

streets

are too

any other apparatus to be taken through

them than that now in

use,

and I must do the Turkish

firemen the justice to say that when they once get to

work they go

at

it

small as they are, feet,

and as their engines, can throw a stream a hundred

like tigers,

they serve, in connection with the general prac

tice of tearing

down houses

in the vicinity of the fire,

as assistants at least.

In former times, whenever the people desired to evince their dissatisfaction with the Government, they fired the city night after night

Ministry took place.

The

until a

Sultan,

change of the

knowing the cause

of these incendiary acts, and fearing the great im

poverishment they were calculated to produce among his

subjects,

his ministers.

responded to their wishes, and changed

DISSATISFACTION WITH MINISTERS. This

is

53

supposed to have been the case whilst we

were at Constantinople, as the ministers who were

power when we

first

eyes of the people,

fires

in

succession,

arrived,

were odious in the

followed each other in quick

but a ministerial

change taking place,

they were comparatively rare afterwards.

A

Ride

through

CHAPTER

VII.

Constantinople on

Horseback

Nations and Costumes

Women The

Yashmak

Hamals, Donkeys, and Horses

and Pera

Their Peculiarities.

A

FEW days

all

Turks, Greeks, Jews, Moors, Arabs, Per

Turkish and Armenian

sians, &c.

People of

after our

Perigee

and

Dogs of Constantinople

arrival,

I traversed the

principal thoroughfares of Constantinople on horse

back,

and really the

objects that attracted

interesting

my

and

diversified

attention were well worth

the trouble and risk of such a ride.

People of

all

clad

nations,

costumes, were to be seen

:

in

their

respective

the grave and

slowly-

moving Turks, or their more energetic neighbors, the Armenians

(the latter, presenting pretty

same appearance on the

much

street, as the former)

the

wad

dling along in their full breeches, their loose, blue jackets,

heavily

embroidered with gold

and

silk,

below which, stuck in rich Cashmere scarfs appeared certain

formidable

fire-arms

and Damascus

blades,

TURKISH AND ARMENIAN WOMEN. which caused

me

instinctively to give their wearers

plenty of room to pass

;

beards

surmounted by

their heads

large turbans, or the red fez of

venerable

55

falling

modern

times, their

over their breasts

;

tall

Greeks, with braided jackets, vests, and leggings,

and ample skirts, rich Persian sashes narrow waists, jaunty caps, &c. ;

snow-white

their

encircling

wily Jews, with their long and flowing garments

;

dark Moors and Arabs, attired in the wild costumes peculiar to the wandering and tent-dwelling life of

the desert

;

darkly clothed Persians, with their con

and perhaps

spicuous, towering, sharp-pointed hats,

a pile

of costly shawls, of their

Cashmere

thrown

over

their

own

shoulders;

Georgians, Circassians, and Russians

and

country, or fur-clad

whilst, here

;

there, appeared a fat Pasha on horseback, with a

dozen attendants pursuing him on foot

whose

sentative of civilized Europe, hat, scant coat, and

"tights,"

odd-looking a biped

group

:

They

as

the women, groups of

streets, there all

was not

tall,

a repre

awkward

this

motley

whom crowded

the

so great a variety of costumes.

wore ferigees or long

what resembling a

or,

rendered him about as

any among these among the men.

Among

;

priest

s

robe,

full

garments some

composed of various

56

TURKISH AND ARMENIAN WOMEN.

materials and

These

brightly colored.

extended

from their necks to their front with one

head and

all

hand

to

feet, and were held up in keep them from trailing. The

the face, saving the eyes, were covered

with the yashmak or Turkish

veil

;

which

is

composed

of a white and delicately fine muslin, and perfectly clean and snow-like.

On

is

kept

their feet

were

yellow boots, over which they wore slippers with no heels, in

which they half walked, half

slid,

from place

to place.

Tliefcrigce and

yashmak impart

a very singular

and sepulchral appearance to the Turkish women, making them look as though they had just arisen from beneath the marble slabs that adorn their own cypress-shaded cemeteries.

Between the yashmak

many

s

white folds I discerned

a pair of large, brilliant eyes,

black, long-

lashed and voluptuous; and as Franks particularly attract the attention of the Turkish

women, I had a

fine opportunity of observing their rolling orbs.

Some

of

the

yashmaks that

Armenian women wear such

their features can be discerned through

the delicate material.

Many of the Armenian women

in the suburbs of Constantinople do not at

all,

thin

wear the

veil

but their fear of the Turks prevents those re-

DONKEYS AND HORSES. siding in the city from dispensing with

57

it.

Even the

Turkish women, especially those who think themselves handsome, appear to be disposed to rid themselves of an article which so effectually screens their beauty

from the admiring gaze of the passer-by.

Among

the other objects that claimed

tion were the

my

atten

immense number of donkeys, hundreds

of which were toiling through the streets under bur

dens that appeared calculated to sink them to the ground. Then there were the hamals, or porters, car rying loads on their backs equal to the united weight of the donkey and his burden picture, wolfish-looking dogs

;

and to complete the

were prowling about, or

lazily lying in the streets, undisturbed

by

all

these

moving scenes, save when they felt the pressure of a horse s foot, or that of some unwary pedestrian, on their

As

tails.

the streets of Turkish cities are too narrow for

heavy vehicles to

all

ponderous

articles

have necessarily

be carried on the backs of hamals, horses, or

Even all heavy building materials, lumber, and stone, bricks, are transported by these means, great distances and up steep ascents.

mules.

I have referred to the risk of navigating through

such a living channel on horseback, not because the

58

THE DOGS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

Turks

are, as is generally thought, a ferocious

peo

ple, but on account of the crowd and confusion, the

narrowness of the

streets,

and the

fact that

you may, some one,

in consequence thereof, excite the ire of

you do not know whom (he may be a Bedouin or or you worse), by running your horse against him ;

of some pious Mussul

may bring down the vengeance man upon you on

account of your horse

s

hoofs set

ting one of his canine neighbors to howling.

Everybody has heard of the dogs of Constantino the city swarms with them. They have no ple ;

owners, but

make

their beds in the middle

of the

public thoroughfares, or the commons, and depend for their food

upon Moslem

They have a

charity.

wolfish, half-famished look,

and are

divided into gangs, each gang occupying a particular

quarter of the city, and promptly repelling any tres

passing dogs that venture on

an injunction of the Koran

its

premises.

As

it is

to be merciful to all ani

mals, the dog scarcely ever receives any blows from a

Turk

;

and

Mahomet

s

to perceive that the

precepts

it

is

Turks are obedient to

only necessary to witness

the difference in the actions of a dog of Constantino ple

and one of Pera, when a club

strike him.

The

latter,

is

elevated to

under such circumstances,

THEIR PECULIARITIES.

59

with that instinctive dread, caused by the recollection of certain disagreeable impressions which have been

made upon him "Infidel Hill,"

at

sundry times, by the denizens of

flies

off at

a tangent with a howl;

with the former, mere threats are of no avail

been accustomed pyhood,

to the largest liberty

to lay where,

from

;

having

his

pup-

and bark when, he pleases,

and being moreover possessed of a true oriental indo lence, actual bloivs, horse s heels, or carriage-wheels,

are the only things that will arouse

lethargy.

him from

his

CHAPTER Ramazan

Its

Cafes

clination to Seek for

s

Fondness

for the

Pipe

The

Oriental

s

In

Enjoyment amid the Abodes of the Dead

The Harem

Separation of the Sexes rious

Evening Scenes and Enjoyments

Rigid Observance

The Turk

VIII.

The Salamnik

Luxu

Enjoyments of the Females.

IT was during the Holy

This month

arrived at Constantinople.

and

apart for fasting

Month Ramazan

self-denial.

that

we

Mahomet

set

His followers are

then prohibited (from three o clock in the morning until sundown),

from eating, drinking, or even smok

ing, abstinence from the latter enjoyment being the sorest trial of

On among

all.

account of the the

way

Mahomedans,

in

the

which time

Ramazan

is

reckoned

in the course

of years runs through every season, and that year,

(1852) occurring in midsummer,

its strict

observance

was peculiarly trying still, such is the veneration of the Turk for the commands of the prophet of Mecca, ;

under the burning rays of an take, in the specified time, no

that, amidst all his toil,

Eastern sun, he

will

FONDNESS FOR THE nourishment heights of

PIPE.

Gl

and though, as he labors up the steep Pera and Constantinople, his eye rests, ;

almost every moment, upon a marble fountain with its

clear

yet no

gushing water,

draught

cooling

refreshes his fevered thirst.

The

city towards evening presents a far different

picture from that witnessed through the day.

When

the lengthening shadows intimate the almost finished course of the sun,

many

his diminishing rays

a Moslem eye

is

regarding

with peculiar interest.

The

cafe s, as yet deserted, are being swept, seats are being

arranged in front of them for the expected guests, pipes are being prepared, coffee warmed, and sherbet cooled.

Soon the crowd

the cafe s are occupied

whom fully

collects,

and the seats of

by long-bearded Turks, before

are placed nargalas, with their long tubes grace

winding over them, their cut glass and decanter-

formed bodies half perforated

filled

and their

with rose-water

earthen bowls holding the grateful to

bacco.

At

length the booming cannon from a neighboring

fortress

announces the setting of the sun

;

almost

si

multaneously with which a thousand curling eddies of

smoke convince the passer-by that the long agony is over, and that the Moslem devotee is indulging in 6

THE CAFES.

62

bright reveries of Paradise, and luxuriates in a bliss ful oblivion to all

dispelling

surrounding objects, amid the care-

fumes of

his pipe.

After smoking for awhile, he sips strong coffee out of diminutive cups, which are handed around gene

by Greek attendants.

rally

The drinking

beverage always succeeds the use of the pipe

which sherbet, cooled by snow from Olympus, taken of; then follows a promiscuous

The reader

will perceive,

written, that, though the

of this after

;

is

par

diet.

from what we have just

Turk has denied himself

both food and drink for about fifteen hours, yet his consideration after the expiration of the pre

first

scribed period of abstinence,

As

is

the everlasting pipe.

the sun, viewed from Constantinople, sets be

hind Olympus, on the evening of the closing day of Itamazan, a Turk is stationed on that classic mount to give the earliest intimation to the self-sacrificing,

but

now

the

Holy Month has

We

rejoicing,

Mahomedans, that the

have referred

last

sun of

set.

to the cafe s

;

some of these are

patronized almost exclusively by Turks, others by a

mixture of Turks, Armenians, and other orientals, whilst

Franks.

others

still

are

frequented

principally

by

SEPARATION OF THE SEXES. The

63

best cafes are those in the vicinity of the

There

cemetery, both within and without the city.

appears to be a penchant in the East to seek for pleasure and enjoyment amid the gloomy abodes of

the dead

;

and, with

many

a curiously wrought tomb

stone rising up to the view

which, engraven in gilded

all

around them, upon

letters, are inscriptions re

cording the virtues of some one

who has gone

to his

admonishing the looker-on of the

long account, or

uncertainty of this

life,

and the preparations neces

sary to the enjoyment of a perfect one in Paradise, are, every evening, seated a

merry throng, smoking, and chatting, drinking, listening to the soft strains of Italian music, or the less refined but stranger tones of

a Turkish band.

Women do cafe.

In

not

fact,

make

their appearance at a

Turkish

Turkish females do not, on any occa

sion, out of doors, mingle with the men.

Even when

the denizens of Constantinople, in order to escape the

heat of the city, resort to some of the beautiful val leys opening into the Bosphorus, to spend the pic-nic style, the

day in

two sexes do not associate with each

other, but have separate places to ramble about in or

spread their mats. It

would be an extremely dangerous experiment for

LUXURIOUS ENJOYMENTS OF

64

a Turkish gentleman to walk, stand, or converse with a Turkish lady in any public place. that he would be seized

The chances are

a cavasse, or public

officer, by and be compelled to suffer some kind of penalty for his temerity and that too even if the woman be his ;

own

wife.

The reason is

is

she

his wife,

obvious.

may

How can

be any other

gee and yashmak entirely conceal ception of the eyes

;

he prove that she

man

s.

Thc/erz-

her, with the ex

these resemble a thousand pair

she will not presume to expose her face

;

;

her tes

timony, under the circumstances, is not taken so what is the bewildered gallant or husband to do but ;

suffer the

It

is

consequences of his indiscretion

?

not only out of doors where the two sexes are

home they occupy distinct and The portion of the house occu separate apartments. Even

separated.

pied by the

man

at

is

called the salamnik,

part in which the wife or wives live

is

and that

termed the

harem.

The windows of the harem prevent

No

male

its

are closely latticed to

inmates from being observed by outsiders.

infidel vision ever penetrates into those sacred

recesses where, reclining luxuriously upon rich, gold-

embroidered, cloth divans, the air glowing with Ara-

THE FEMALES. bia s sweetest perfumes, surrounded

attendants,

who hearken

65

by

their female

to their every sigh,

riedly obey their every wish,

with snow-cooled sherbet,

now

and hur

refreshing

and anon

them

lulling their

senses with soft voluptuous music, these houris while

away the time

in blissful indolence.

6*

CHAPTER Number

Wives and Slaves Reason

why Turks

Extravagance

Picturesque Scenes

Asia"

SOME

of former allowed by the Koran

"

Ox Arabas

Amusements

s

Sweet Waters of Europe and of

of the

Female costume

Men

Dashing Steeds.

of the wealthy Turks have two or three

wives, besides several slaves, fairest

Turkish Wife

generally have but one Wife

Valleys of the

Arabian Jugglers

IX.

women

who

are generally the

of Georgia and Circassia

;

as a general

thing, however, they have but one wife, though the

Koran

allows

them four.

The Sultan himself has no more than ber, but

at the

this last

num

same time he has between two and

three hundred of the most lovely female slaves.

The common impression among us can have as port

;

many

this is

is

that the Turks

wives as they please, or can sup

an erroneous idea, as they can never

transcend the number specified in the Koran.

The reason

that the privilege, extended to

Mahomet, of having more than one

wife,

is

them by

not more

PICTURESQUE SCENES. frequently availed of by the Turks, its

is

67

attributable to

expensiveness. It

no

is

trifling

matter to support one wife, to keep

around her the necessary attendants, to supply her with diamonds, which she requires the greatest abun dance of to deck herself or children with her with bazaar money, which fine silks

shawls

;

;

to furnish

expended for the of Persia, jewelled slippers, or cashmere

all

is

of which appear to be the indispensable

requisites of a Turkish wife.

When

these expenses

are threatened to be doubled or trebled,

it

is

not a

matter of any great surprise that the Turk remains satisfied

The

with one partner.

beautiful valleys to which I have incidentally

where the residents of Constantinople have their keffa or pic-nics, are, on those occasions, most referred,

excellent places to observe the Turkish

The

Waters of Asia and of Europe.

diversified

On

Sweet

These, every Friday,

(the Turkish Sabbath), present the

and

women.

principal resorts are the valleys of the

most animated

appearance that can be conceived

the margin of a small clear stream that

of.

mean

ders through the valley, and under the shade of over

hanging richly

trees,

may

be seen spread, hundreds of

worked Persian mats

;

upon which are seated,

ARABIAN JUGGLERS.

68 in

picturesque

groups,

the

Turkish women, their

black busy eyes peering out between the folds of

yashmaks, whose whiteness is of virgin purity. Gaily painted and gilded arabas, drawn by oxen, are slowly

moving along, containing women,

ing on cushions, who, are

like their friends

reclin

on the bank,

chattering, looking eagerly around

crowd, especially scrutinizing the Frank

upon the

whom

curi

osity has attracted to their vicinity, and surveying themselves in small mirrors, which they carry with

them on such

occasions.

Here and there are

dren scampering about or walking with

men and women,

nity of

all

their little bodies

chil

the dig

almost

covered with diamonds and other precious gems. It is only

on the

little girls

that

we could

see the

costume which the ferigee and yashmak hid on the adults

;

the loose pantaloons descending below a long,

and festooned up at the side heads being ornamented with diamonds, &c.

full skirt,

their

open in

front,

;

Toward the lower part of the valley, an Arabian juggler has collected around him a crowd of astonished females,

who

ful tricks

evince their appreciation of his wonder

by

shrill

bursts of laughter, and an in

creased magnitude of their already amply large eyes. Still farther

down, near the Bosphorus, are gathered

DASHING STEEDS. the

faithful representation of

men; the

adroit brush that

and

futile

ever

would defy the most

made

the canvas glow with

would be any attempt of

to delineate them.

whose vari

c.,

ous costumes, positions,

life,

69

my

feeble

Turks, Armenians, Greeks, Jews,

Arabs, and Albanians, are there gathered the

pen

gaudy costumes of

their

;

clad in

respective countries,

standing, walking, squatting d la Turque, smoking, and all, save the pro drinking coffee and sherbet foundly grave Turks, breaking out into the most im ;

moderate

fits

of laughter at the surprising feats and

antics of a couple of

Arab

wizards, who, with wild

looks and actions, and in wilder guttural tones, are

astonishing their senses.

In the extreme upper portion of the

Sweet Waters of level

Asia,"

and grass-covered

jollifications,

is

"

Valley of the

a large area, over whose

surface, during the

weekly

dash richly caparisoned horses, which,

with their well-conditioned and richly clothed riders,

pursued on foot by armed attendants, add greatly to the interest of the general scene.

CHAPTER An

X.

Audience with Sultan Abdul Medjid

The Bosphorus

Sailors

Rowed by American

tions

on beholding the Flag of our Native Land

tan

Palace

s

Their

Smoking Customs

Coffee

tion of our Veneration for the

Sultan

s

Magnificent

Abundance

Sarfs

Reach

Our Appearance

Reception-Room

Mode of Presenting the Pipe Mouth-pieces

Emo

Boat of the American Legation

"

Amber and Jewelled

Turkish

Tobacco

Enter the Palace

Shadow

of

the Sul

Pipe-Bearers

God on

An

Former Exhibi

The

Earth"

"Pages."

WHILST we were

at

Constantinople,

the

Hon.

George P. Marsh, United States Minister at the Sub lime Porte, sailed in the United States Steamship San Jacinto, for Athens, to settle certain difficulties be

tween Mr. King, an American Missionary, and the Greek Government.

On

the occasion of his departure, he had an au

dience with the Sultan, who, at the time, was occupy

ing a palace on the Asiatic shores of the Bosphorus.

Availing myself of so rare an opportunity to see

His Sublime

Higltncss^ face to face, I

became

at-

THE BOSPHORUS. tached to the Minister ble to

s suite

and

as

it

was impossi

be ushered into the Royal presence in the plain

garb of a

civilian, I

was under the necessity of

and rigging myself en

it,

;

71

Towards noon, we

doffing

militaire.

left

the

San

Jacinto,

John P.

Brown, Esq., of the United States Legation, Captain Crabbe, and several of his officers, being of the party. Propelled by the lusty arms of American sailors,

we

glided rapidly over the quiet waters of the Golden

Horn and Bosphorus

;

now wending our way between

scores of light caiques, that were cleaving the waters in all directions,

and anon passing under the frowning

batteries of the Sultan s prodigious gun-ships, that

were anchored out

in the stream.

Ascending the Bosphorus a couple of miles,

we

dis

cerned in the distance, rounding one of those glorious promontories for which this noble channel

mous, a large caique, rowed

boatmen,

all

of

whom were

is

so fa

by nine caiquejies or

clad in white silk shirts.

A large its

eagle, with expanded wings, perched upon and the star-spangled banner floating at the bow,

stern, soon convinced us that

it

was the boat of the

American Legation.

What

heartfelt emotions were

contemplation of the

"Banner

awakened by the

of the

Free,"

waving

THE SULTAN

72

S

PALACE.

over those foreign waters, where we were separated

by

seas

and continents from our native land

feelings are indeed patriotic

and proud, that a

hearted American experiences when

country has

s flag

never

upon a distant sea or

left

the

free

!

shores

The true-

beholding his soil.

He who

of America,

and

traversed the despotic countries of the Old World,

cannot realize them.

The boat had on board the United States Minister, and bending our course, as did it (as we approached each other), towards the Asiatic shore, we soon found ourselves sailing in

company with the

direction of the Sultan

s

palace.

Minister, in the

That reached, we

landed on a marble quay, in the presence of two

files

of soldiery, which formed the outer guards of the palace.

We court

were then conducted by an

officer

through a

paved with marble, and, between two other

rows of

soldiers, into the reception-room

;

the guidance of the master of ceremonies,

where, by we seated

ourselves on the divans, which there, as in almost

every Turkish house, extended around three sides of the room.

We

were arranged in a

line vis-a-vis with the

Ger-

PIPE-BEARERS. man

73

Legation, whose chief had also come to take

leave of His Imperial Majesty.

On

account of our number, and the style of our

uniform,

we made

quite a formidable appearance

and when I looked on both

proud of the

fine picture

presented at the

;

sides of me, I felt really

our

little

republican party

Court of the descendant of the Otto

mans.

A

few minutes after we were seated, a troop of

pipe-bearers

filed into

the room, each bearing the

eternal pipe.

They approached us with measured steps and dignity, and, with one hand pressed against their hearts, with the other presented to each of us a pipe,

and then retreated, with us,

until

This was

their faces directed

toward

they were completely out of the room. all

accomplished with the utmost precision

and regularity, and though there were over a dozen of us served at the same time, our long pipes stretch ing out on the floor, forming stumbling-blocks to less experienced persons, and though

each pipe-bearer

walked bacfavards, there was no coming

in contact

either with each other or the pipes.

We

were struck with the richness of the amber

and jewelled mouth-pieces of the pipes 7

;

row

after

TURKISH TOBACCO.

74

row of diamonds,

rubies,

sapphires,

&c.,

made up

their glittering beauty.

Lieutenant Wainwright and myself calculated the value of the mouth-pieces through which

and we came

we smoked,

to the conclusion that each one could

But

not be worth less than two thousand dollars.

some were

far richer

than ours, the approximate

value of which I would not like to state, lest I be

charged with exaggeration.

There appeared sparkling

pipes,

to be a profusion of these

gem-

notwithstanding each of our

for

party was served, the German Legation was also served with them, and we must hence conclude that there

is

a sufficiency on hand to supply any number

of embassies that

may happen

to seek

an interview

with His Highness, on one and the same day.

The tobacco had a very should think, on account of magnificent

mouth-pieces

delicate

its

flavor,

and I

pleasantness and the

through

which

it

was

whiffed, that the most rigidly abstemious person in

the world would have been tempted to take a few puffs.

Just to think of a glorious inhalation of the

fumes of

the

finest

transparent amber

thousands of dollars

tobacco

of

Turkey, through and rings of diamonds, worth !

SARFS. Formerly,

75

was the custom, when one Turkish

it

dignitary visited another, to have pipes brought out for

him and those accompanying him

as friends; but

as this was a very expensive fashion, involving the

necessity of keeping an unlimited it

visiter, if

own

pipes (borne

It

is

man

he be a

number of

pipes,

abandoned, and each guest or

now almost

is

of any consequence, takes his

by pipe-bearers) with him. see

really amusing to

a Turkish grandee

galloping along on horseback, with a train of atten

dants

whom Of

pursuing

him on

conspicuous

foot,

among

are the pipe-bearers. course,

it

is

not expected of the Franks to

carry the Tchibouk with them, and hence provision is

always made for them.

After a brief enjoyment of our pipes, another relay of servants

marched

into

the room, bearing

small cups, placed in magnificent sarfs, the latter

vying with the amber mouth-pieces in the richness of their material

and adornments, and served us with

the most delicious

coffee,

which

article

the

Turks

excel in making.

The smoking, the drinking of and

some

friendly chatting

in

coffee

and sherbet,

French, with

the

Master of Ceremonies, having been gone through

THE SULTAN

76

with, a messenger

made

S

"PAGES."

his appearance,

announcing

that His Imperial Majesty was ready to receive us.

Rising and following him, we crossed over a court,

paved with gravel mosaic, and mounting the marble steps, passed into the Grand Entrance of the Palace, which was guarded on either side by Turkish sol diers.

Here the faithful are compelled

shoes, using slippers as a substitute, as

the height of sacrilege to

panelled floors of the "

Shadow

of

God on

mar

it

would be

the marble or oak-

Palace, wherein earth,"

to doff their

dwells

the

with the heavy and

soiled foot-coverings of the street.

But we

infidels

were spared that trouble, and

planted our calf-skins or patent-leathers (with our feet in

of the

them\ on the clean and highly polished

floors

Imperial Mansion, with such nonchalance,

that the devout disciples of the

Holy Prophet must at our want of

have been wonderfully surprised veneration.

We

continued on through two successive

apart

ments, both furnished in the most regal and Eastern style

;

in the first of which,

column, were the their tall helmets

and picturesque.

"pages"

drawn up

in a double

of the Sultan, who, with

and feathers, looked very grand

CHAPTER XL Audience with the Sultan, continued Turkish Salutation

Mr. Marsh

s

Enter the Sultan

Speech

Person

The

His Dress

Description

of the Sultan

Diamonds

Inverted feet and their Cause

s

compared with Mahmoud the Second His Reforms

the

Its

Empire

ON

Brown

Cause

Apartment s

Reply-

Profusion of

Abdul Medjid as

Energy of the Latter His Liberal

Benevolence of the present Sultan

Policy towards Christians

of Mr.

s

Sultan

His want of Energy

Unequalness of Taxation

Stagnation of Presentation

Backing-out Ceremonies.

entering into the third apartment of the palace

upon His Majesty, the Sultan, who was standing, with no one near him save the Minister of our eyes

fell

Foreign Affairs, in the remotest part of

it,

awaiting

our approach.

We

advanced to within three yards of him and then made the usual Turkish salutation, which (the hand being

first

lips),

is

carried very low and then brought near the

in

rude imitation of kissing the earth on

which the Sovereign treads. Whilst making these salaams the Sultan graciously

MR.

78

MARSH

S

SPEECH.

condescended to bestow a look, calm, and apparently indifferent as

it

was, upon us.

formalities our minister

Dragoman

A

moment

commenced

after these

his address

;

the

of the Porte occupying a position between

him and the Sultan. Mr. Marsh referred

to the friendly relations exist

ing between our country and the Sublime Porte, ex pressing his hope that they might ever continue.

He

spoke of the interest which the people of the

United States

felt in

the prosperity of Turkey, of the

good wishes which he and those with officially

whom

he was

associated personally entertained for His

His speech was made in French, and was translated, piecemeal, by the Court Interpreter The Sultan replied to each sentence into Turkish. Highness, &c.

in a low, scarcely audible tone, barely articulating the

In fact

words.

it

appeared to be an

effort for

him

to

talk at all, and perhaps he thought that we poor sub lunary infidels, who were not, like him, destined to a

ravish with their paradise, where innumerable houris

charms, were not tvorth that

He

effort.

expressed his pleasure at the existing amicable

relations

between the two countries;

the kind wishes of the people of the its

his

thanks for

new world and

Representatives to his Government;

his

hopes

DESCRIPTION OF THE SULTAN. that the Minister would succeed,

79

according to his

upon which he was about

wishes, in the mission

to

start, &c.

During the intervals which occurred in the delivery of his remarks he cast an occasional languid look upon first

one and then another of

which gave us a

us,

fine

opportunity to scan his features.

He

is

rather low in stature, has dark, melancholy

eyes, which exhibit an almost total lack of energy, but

which have, at the same time, an amiable and benevo lent expression.

The

tout ensemble of his face

careful inspection of

it

full

beard.

good, but on a it

was much

Like most Mussulmans, he

pitted with small-pox.

wears a

is

I discovered that

He had

a black cloth cloak

thrown over him, which was fastened in front with a

His coat was so richly em broidered, braided, and studded with diamonds, that it would be vain to attempt to describe it. The collar rich jewelled

and

clasp.

were completely encased in diamonds. wore a sword which reposed in one of the most cuffs

He ele

gantly chased gold scabbards that the most exalted

fancy could conceive fez,

which

is

of.

On

his

universally worn,

throughout the Empire.

head was the red

by high and

low,

M A II M U D THE SECOND.

80

To our

we were

surprise, he

in

remained standing

the time

all

His Royal presence, the unusual exertion

attendant upon which, must have been quite fatiguing to

His Highness. His feet are very much inverted

;

but such

is

the

case with those of most of the Turks, owing to the position in which they in the saddle,

sit,

their being so constantly

and a certain custom of

days, which modesty forbids

me

their infantile

mentioning.

In surveying thus closely Abdul Medjid,

his calm,

apathetic expression, &c., I could not but reflect essentially he differed in those

from the

which

qualities

it

how

late Sultan, his father,

is

so important that a

sovereign of a mighty country in these days of pro gress and political reform should possess.

Mahmoud

the

Second was energetic.

He com

menced and carried out many great reforms in his Empire. The awkward, bundling clothes of the soldiery were substituted

by the

snug-fitting

garments

of civilized Europe.

The of the

Janissaries, that bloody band, long the terror

Mahomedan

Sultans and the inveterate enemies

of reform, he effectually destroyed

costumed

figures,

in

a

Museum

;

a collection of

of Constantinople,

STAGNATION OF THE EMPIRE.

81

being exhibited to the curious traveller to give him

an idea of what they once were.

Many

other important beneficial changes he

complished, which

it is

The present Sultan

unnecessary for I believe to be

excellent heart, generous

by

rians,

who found a

This was exhi

safe shelter

under the

"

Hunga

Star and

when pressed by Austrian tyranny.

Crescent"

The

and kind.

the course he pursued toward the

bited

ac

me to mention. a man of most

liberal policy

Christians

who

worthy of

all

he pursues in reference to

dwell within his

dominions

commendation, and far be

it

is

from

all

also

me

from his nobleness and magna But certainly he has not the strong mind

to detract in the least

nimity.

and bold fortitude that

his father possessed,

nor do I

think he makes the same effort to introduce reforms into his government.

The Empire sive

age

is

is

in statu quo, which, in this progres

the same thing as retrogradation.

The revenues, under the present system of

raising

them, are inadequate to the expenses of the govern

ment

;

whose functions, in consequence thereof, are

considerably paralyzed. is The pro very unequal and unjust. where the have vinces, poor people scarcely aught

Taxation

PRESENTATION OF MR. BROWN.

&2

else but miserably small

upon

patches of

soil to

depend

for their daily food, having the greater portion

of the taxes to pay.

The great City

much

of Constantinople, where exists so

wealth, pays nothing; so the unequalness

taxation, and the utter

inability of such a

of

system to

meet the exigencies of the government, are clearly perceptible. It really

is

to

be hoped that the Sultan

long, see clearly into this matter,

valorem tax upon

property in his

all

done there

is

But we must return

to our

main

its

Should

expenses.

topic.

speechification having been concluded,

Brown, with whom quainted, and for

;

no doubt but what the resources of

the government would be adequate to

The

ere

dominions

whether held by his own subjects or Franks. this be

will,

and enjoin an ad

his

whom

it

majesty

is

and Mr.

personally ac

appeared he entertains the

highest esteem, having been presented as Charge

d Affaires of the United States, we all took leave of His Highness in a manner which, owing to our num ber and inexperience in such matters, was somewhat embarrassing.

Keeping our faces turned toward the Sultan, we commenced a general backing-out," only occasion"

BACKING-OUT CEREMONIES. ally

bumping against each

other,

or

83

wounding the

tender sensibilities of the toes in our rear.

To a

looker-on this scene must have been quite ludicrous

and I should think the Sultan would enjoy such mightily, if the Koran allows him to laugh in the presence of unbelievers.

As

so ambitious to orientally,

to the

for ourselves,

we were

go through the ceremony gracefully, and safely, as to render us totally insensible

humorous phase of

it.

CHAPTER Harem

Visit to the

fendi

s

Palace

Cavasses

Astonishing

Number

Ef-

of Attendants

A Beautiful Eastern Picture Coffee, A Point of Etiquette Turkish Vanity Rose The Conservatory A Little Eden Bubbling

and Pipes

Leaf Preserves

Water, Flowers, Birds, and Sunshine

Eunuch

The

of the Minister of Foreign Affairs

Innovations

European Sherbet,

XII.

Accompanying Him

ONE day we

Sudden Appearance of a

into the Precincts of the

visited the house of

Fuad

Harem,

Effendi,

then Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Ottoman Porte.

Mr. Brown

s

long intimacy and friendship with

His Excellency procured

nied us, a welcome admission into

apartments, the Harem.

accorded to those

whom

are pleased to term

who accompa Madame Fuad s

for the ladies

This

is

an honor rarely

the followers of the Prophet

"

infidels."

After a short and delightful row on the Bosphorus, in

one of

those

light

and graceful boats called

NUMBER

OF ATTENDANTS.

85

caiques, that glide over the surface of the water like

an arrow sped from a bow, we found ourselves in front of the Effendi s palace.

On

its

marble steps, which are laved by the waters

of the Bosphorus,

we noticed

the cavasses, or guards,

their heads covered with the red fez, with its blue silk

tassel,

their

coats

thickly

braided, and

their

swords slung to their sides, ready to receive us. It astonishes

an American to see the great number

of attendants that a Turkish gentleman deems

it

ne

cessary to have around him upon almost every occa If he be a Pasha, or Minister of State,

sion.

it

seems

impossible for

him

sometimes

times the number, running after him

five

to stir out without

having a dozen,

some, should he be mounted, to attend to his horse

some still

as pipe-bearers

for

;

others as guards

;

;

and others

what purpose no one can imagine, save

it

be

the effect produced by their presence.

Fuad

Effendi, on account of his rank, appeared to

be pretty liberally supplied with them.

The

steps

ascended,

we were conducted

into

a

large and beautiful garden, then through a marble hall,

and from thence into the reception-room.

Here, though we found everything elegant in the extreme, costly, and in the best taste, 8

we perceived a

COFFEE AND SHERBET.

86

decided innovation of European fashions and inven

We soon noticed that the contiguity of Turkey and the intercommunication existing between it with, and more civilized countries, was rapidly revolution tions.

izing the

mode

of living

letter class, at least,

among

the Orientals of the

and had already wrought impor

tant changes.

We seated ourselves upon almost the only relic of the luxurious past, the divan, with the charming Bosphorus exposed to our view, whose placid bosom, re flecting

many

a mosque and gilded minaret, pillared

palace, terraced garden, or tall dark cypress, adorning

the opposite European shores, affords from the Effendi s

We

windows a magnificent Eastern picture.

had

not long composed ourselves before coffee was served to us.

No

stronger stimulant

is

ever used on such

its

appearance during

occasions.

This beverage always makes a

visit,

whether social or diplomatic

;

and

it

is

cer

tainly very refreshing after a walk or ride, and whilst

waiting to

see

the

person upon

whom you

have

called.

In summer, to the guest

in addition to coffee, sherbet is served

a drink composed of the juice of the

cherry, and cooled with

snow from Olympus.

TURKISH VANITY.

87

was brought as far as the door by one domestic on a rich salver, covered with a scarlet and

The

coffee

gold-embroidered cloth, which was removed by ano ther servant and thrown gracefully over the shoulder

of the first; the coffee was poured out tendant, from the same

vessel in

by a third

which

it

at

was made,

into small china cups, each placed in a sarf, or outer

and

cup, the latter composed of gold

A

with precious gems.

silver

and

inlaid

fourth servant handed these

and, after each guest had partaken of the

around

;

coffee,

pipes

made

of jessamine-wood

with amber

mouth-pieces, adorned with diamonds, were brought to the gentlemen.

Pipes, like the former article, are the invariable

concomitants of a Turkish

visit

;

and

it is

considered

quite a breach of etiquette for a gentleman to refuse

them, when proffered, whether he be a smoker or not he must accept, and take one or two whiffs at

We

least.

have spoken of the richness of the pipes and

the sarfs

;

there

is

these articles as there

lady to exhibit

young and sarf appear

the same disposition to display is

on the part of a fashionable

her jewelry

;

and, as the pipe

so frequently before friends, there

could be no better media for showing gemly wealth.

After we had smoked and chatted for a while, rose-

88

A

LITTLE EDEN.

leaf conserves were brought in.

This

is

one of the

most palatable and delicate preserves that could be conceived of, and is, I believe, peculiar to the East.

Each guest takes but one spoonful

never any more,

replacing the spoon on the opposite side of the waiter

from whence he has taken the morsel

is

it,

to

prevent

its

re-use

;

then washed down by a mouthful of

water.

The diminutive quantity taken reminds me of the fact, that in a

Turkish house refreshments are always

served up in homoeopathic doses

the

"inner

man"

to

derive

it

;

stantly recurring participation of

is

only the con

them that enables

any

satisfaction

from

them.

These formalities having been concluded, we walked into the conservatory attached to the reception-rooms.

This we found to be a perfect

The

first

little

Eden.

object that arrested our attention was a

sea-nymph, which, resting on a rock, reared

its

marble

front from out the centre of a circular basin of water, in

which swam golden-hued

fish.

Over

this

was sus

pended a beautiful alabaster lamp, being one of a row that hung from the ceiling of the Conservatory along its

median

line.

Parallel to these, on either side, were suspended

FLOWERS, BIRDS, AND SUNSHINE.

89

two other rows of stained glass lamps, alternating latter, and

with Gothic flower pots, in each of which clinging around

it,

were the most lovely running

plants.

Along the

sides of the Conservatory,

to the glass roofs,

up

were

ivies of

and mounting

every description

;

adjacent to which grew orange and lemon trees, laden

with fruit

;

rustic seats

flower beds appeared here and there,

made

and

of iron.

The walks were paved with gravel mosaic, a style much in vogue in

of paving very beautiful and very

and near Constantinople. The side of the summer-house which looked out on the flower garden was formed of stained and parti colored glass.

Altogether, the effect produced by the commingling of such sweet associations, the bubbling of the water

from the sea-nymph, the carolling of birds of strange notes and plumage, that found ready access to this fairy scene, the fragrance of the orange and the lemon, the beauty and the odor of the flowers, and the

many

beauteous hues which the bright sunshine,

reflecting on the stained glass, cast over everything,

was wonderfully fascinating. Whilst we were enjoying these Paradisial scenes, 8*

90

A EUNUCH.

an eunuch, black

as moonless

midnight, clad in a

scarlet robe lined with fur, suddenly

pearance

like the genii of old,

made

his

and announced,

ap

in his

uncouth vernacular, that he was ready to conduct our female friends within the sacred precincts of the

Harem.

CHAPTER

XIII.

Follow the Eunuch into the apartments of the Harem

Accompa

Madame Fuad s Chamber Madame Fuad s Manner and

nied by Circassian slaves, ascend to

Luxurious

ments

Salutation

Repose

Her

Occupations

Interest

ment of the Slaves Captivity

Slavery

toms ship

Desire of the

in our

Country

Fuad Effendi

in

"

Accomplish Content

Bloomer"

the East a

luxurious

Circassian Girls to be sold into

Inquiries concerning Matrimonial

Latticed

The Black Eunuch,

His Garden &c.

Young s

Windows

of Refreshments

Serving

Salamnik

Unlike the

Female Slavery

Madame Fuad

Their

in her Slaves

Turkish Female Dress

Part with

The Ladies

Cus

Her Lady

return

to

the Guardian Spirit of the

the

Harem

His Intelligence and Reformatory Sentiments

Miniature

Lake

Swiss Cottage

Birds,

Statues,

Departure.

THE eunuch

led our friends through several large

apartments into one comparatively small.

Here they

were received by two Turkish women, rather ad vanced in life, who were surrounded by about a dozen Circassian slaves.

By

a wave of the hand the ladies were requested

to be seated,

and were informed, that on account of

Her Ladyship being

indisposed, she would be

happy

SALUTATION.

92

to see the visitors in her

own chamber.

time the

Madame

little

and said her

With some ing

daughter of

Ma

was ready

In a short

entered the room

to receive them.

of the slaves preceding, others follow

them, they ascended a wide,

and

circuitous

splendid stairway, and were ushered into an apart ment where, on a couch formed of green and yellow satin cushions, with a splendidly embroidered cloth

of the richest hues and material thrown over her, sur

rounded by a host of fair Circassians and Georgians, one of whom was gently fanning her, gracefully re clined her Ladyship.

She

partially arose on their entrance,

them by carrying her right hand

and saluted

to her chin,

and then

quickly to her forehead.

Almost simultaneously with

this

slaves placed chairs in front of her,

friends seated themselves

;

during

salutation

the

upon which our this

time

other

slaves remained standing about in different parts of

the room ready to obey any

She expressed her regret

summons

of their mistress.

at being unwell,

and con

sequently unable to receive the visitors below

;

but

the Oriental picture that she presented, thus reclining

and thus surrounded, was attractive than

it

far

more

interesting

and

could otherwise possibly have been.

TURKISH FEMALE DRESS. She appeared

to be pleased with a visit

of the far oif land of

about as

many

New

the

93

by persons

World, and asked

questions concerning America, as they

did of her country.

They found her easy and

quite intelligent,

and her manners

lady-like.

Women

in the

Turkish harems generally spend

their time in luxurious indolence

great fondness

for useful

;

but she evinced a

She mani

occupations.

fested considerable interest in her slaves, and teaches

them the

art of embroidery,

c.

Many

of the slaves

and one of them, during the were visit, played several Italian and Turkish airs on the For the gratification of our friends, several of piano. skilled in music,

the most elegant dresses of

were exhibited,

all

Madame Fuad

s

wardrobe

of which were, of course,

made

in

the loose and flowing style of the East.

The Turkish female it

dress cannot be called graceful

;

can be made beautiful by rich working and material,

but the cut of It

is

it is

very loose,

foot or two

on the

awkward.

and floor

so long as to :

it is

make

it trail

a

brought together just

above the waist, by a Cashmere sash.

In walking out

the skirts are festooned up at the sides.

The

"

Bloomer,"

or

as

some designate

it,

the

FEMALE SLAVERY.

94 "

Turkish

dress,"

adopted by a few, very few, bold

ladies in America, bears

no possible resemblance to

the real article.

The

slaves all appeared to be quite

tented, and more

like

than as her property.

Turkey

is

daughters

In

mistress

female slavery in

fact,

a mere nominal thing

happy and con

of their

;

the bondsmaid

is

taught every accomplishment, and frequently thereby marries the highest Circassian slave

officer

who

The young

of the realm.

afforded our friends the musical

entertainment, has since been married to Fuad Effendi s son.

At

a

first

glance

we would be

inclined to pity the

fancying her forcibly torn from her unwil

poor

girl,

ling

and distressed parents, and sold

servitude

;

but when we

into

degrading

reflect that she, whilst

still

young, among her own kindred and amid her own mountain wilds, eagerly longs for the day that will bring her to this great Eastern capital, to be sold into

such luxurious captivity, where she the bright beacon of hope,

Madame Fuad was tices

is

we cease

very anxious to

concerning matrimony;

cheered too by

to commiserate.

know our prac

whether

it

was cus

tomary with us to make the bride handsome presents, and whether a marriage is negotiated bv others than

REFRESHMENTS.

95

the parties immediately interested, as

is

the custom in

Turkey.

Our

windows which

noticed the latticed

friends

screen the inmates of the harem from the observation

from the interior a person can observe everything that is transpiring without and as an opera-glass lay on the satin couch near Madame of outside barbarians

;

;

Fuad, we can well imagine how the

fair

occupants of

those harems which overhang the Bosphorus, amuse

themselves by watching the ever-varying objects upon its

surface.

After

many

social interchanges, her ladyship being

pressing in her invitation to

them

to repeat their visit,

our friends descended into a magnificently furnished apartment, where they were regaled with sherbet,

brought to the door by the aforementioned black eunuch, and from thence by Circassian slaves to the guests

;

napkin.

each slave bearing a white, gold-embroidered

When

the refreshment was served, the at

tendants placed their hands on the lower part of their breasts,

and retreated backward

their faces

toward, and

their

for a few paces, with

eyes fixed upon, the

guests.

The conversation with Madame Fuad was main tained through the assistance of Mrs.

Brown and her

FUAD EFFEXDI.

96 beautiful

Greek maid, Constantine

;

Mrs. B. trans

lating the English into Greek, Constantine the into Turkish,

The

ladies

and

Greek

vice versa.

now made

way toward

their

nik, or male portion of the house, followed

the Salam-

by several

of the slaves, whose eagerness (caused by curiosity) in pushing forward, called forth the restraining inter

This dark mass of flesh

ference of the black eunuch.

spirit of the

appeared to be the guardian

He

keeps the keys, and without

women

can pass neither out nor

In the reception-rooms we

all

Harem.

his co-operation the in.

once more met.

His Excellency, Fuad Eflendi, had made pearance whilst our friends were in the

his

ap

Harem, and

with him we had been enjoying, for half an hour, several relays of pipes.

He ral

was extremely sociable, and expressed very libe and enlightened political sentiments.

Being well educated, speaking the French language, and having travelled extensively on the continent, he

had acquired quite a fund of information, and a very clear

and

intelligent idea of the

governmental systems. spirit

which

is

He

calculated to

is

work

workings of other

imbued with that radical reforms in

the Ottoman Empire, and assimilate

Europe.

it

with civilized

DEPARTURE.

97

After parting with our kind host, we wandered over his large

and beautiful garden, where every species of

shrubbery flourished.

Near the summit house, which

of the

commands

rear of his

in the

hill,

a fine view of the Bosphorus,

the castles of Europe and Asia, Constantinople, the &c., he has

Marmora, Seraglio Point,

a miniature lake, an island occupying the main land

connected with

by

had excavated its

a

centre,

small

and

rustic

bridge.

This lake was to be supplied with water from the

mountain, which will tumble into

On

the margin of the lake

is

a

it

over rocks of lava.

little

thatched Swiss

cottage, which adds greatly to the picturesqueness of

the scene.

Further down the

are

hill

mammoth

cages, con

taining hundreds of birds of the most varied and de licate

plumage

;

whilst here and there lay statues and

broken shafts from Egypt &c.,

all

;

stalactites

from Broussa,

of which, duly arranged, will adorn those

beautiful grounds.

Once more caique,

we

left

at the

palace gate, and soon in our

those enchanting scenes behind, which

will ever linger

in our

memories

beauteous dream, 9

like a bright

and

CHAPTER XIV. The European

Its

Passport System

ness of the Turks

The

Sultan

s

Annoyances

Firman

A

showing the Peculiar Style of Oriental Verbiage

Turkey

Use Horses and Mules

Merchandize

The Camel

Unsuspicious-

Translation of

Transportation of

Picturesque Effect of a Caravan of Camels Scarcity of the Full-blooded Arab

nificent Steeds

the Village of Belgrade

A

Beautiful

it,

Travelling in

A

Mag

Ride

to

and Diversified Scene

Lady Mary Wortley Montague Grand Aqueduct of Justinian The Valley of Buyucd6re Return Godfrey de Bouillon

to

Therapia.

IN

civilized

Europe, out of Great Britain, the pass

port system, to use rather

a perfect bore.

have the

vise*

ment whose

On

an unrefined expression,

is

country you must

leaving one

of the representative of the govern

you next intend entering you must have the police vis, and that of the Ame and in some parts of Italy (Florence, rican Consul territories

;

;

for instance),

when you wish

able length of time in a city,

to it

remain any consider is

necessary to pro-

THE SULTAN

S

FIRMAN.

99

cure from the Prefect of Police a carti di soggiorno, or card of sojourn.

much

All this causes nience

;

and inconve

difficulty, delay,

especially in a country that

is

cut up into

small principalities.

We

should congratulate ourselves that in this free

and happy country we can journey

in all directions

without the eternal annoyance of a passport watchful military or whither

we

asking us whence

officials

are bound

;

;

without

we came,

or without being suspected

of a disposition and the ability to cause a revolution or upset a government.

To

enter

Turkey does not invariably render the

presentation of a passport necessary

Turks are much gard

less particular

to travellers,

When

is

and suspicious

in re

whom

the exception of course of the

intending, however, to traverse the

dominions of the Sultan,

what

fact the

than any other people among

we journeyed, with English.

in

;

termed a firman.

it

is

With

advisable to procure this

you can travel

with impunity from one end of the empire to an other.

As

this

Oriental of

it.

document diction,

is

written in the peculiar style of

I herewith subjoin

a

translation

TRANSLATION.

A

100

At

the head of the paper, in

stands the Toogha or

monogram

large characters,

of the present Sove

reign, containing the following words

"

SULTAN ABDUL MEDJID, SON or SULTAN MAH-

MOUD "

:

His Reign continue ever victorious ! PRIDE of the DOCTORS of HOLY WISDOM the

May

NAIDS and MUFTEES of on the route from

the

KAZAS

(districts) situated

MY SUBLIME GATE

to the places

hereafter mentioned. "

PRIDE

of their

EQUALS and COMPEERS,

the

EX

ECUTIVE OFFICERS and other PROVINCIAL CHIEFS,

may "

their

On

power be augmented

the receipt of the present

and NOBLE CYPHER that the

!

EXALTED IMPERIAL

(monogram) be

MY

resident at

GATE

to you,

of FELICITY, has re

presented in a sealed note, that the (literally

Mr. for his

known

LEGATION OF THE UNITED STATES of NORTH

AMERICA,

TLEMAN

it

,

own

Bey

AMERICAN GEN

ZadeJi or Prince Born),

named

has formed the design of travelling,

pleasure, to Egypt, Syria, Palestine, and

the other countries in their neighborhood, requesting that the present

NOBLE ORDER be

half, for his protection

journey.

issued in his be

and assistance whilst on said

"

TRAVELLING IN TURKEY.

101

Therefore You, who are the aforementioned

OF

FICERS, will be careful and attentive that the

RICAN GENTLEMAN

aforesaid, whilst

AME

on his way to

and from the places previously stated, as well as at any places where he may be pleased to stop, be not, contrary to IMPERIAL

TREATY between

UNITED

the

STATES of AMERICA and TURKEY, incommoded by a

demand

for the

payment of any taxes or dues, or any imposts whatsoever nor be in any manner whatever molested that he be protected and aided, be expe ;

;

dited on his way, peaceably

;

and

in case of

need that

he be supplied with provisions at the current prices. "

This

is

MY

COMMAND, and

MAN

IMPERIAL WILL and

in this sense the present

has been issued.

Be You

MY

ROYAL

NOBLE FIR

therefore attentive to

the execution of its contents. "

THIS KNOW and place

genuineness of the this

entire confidence on the

NOBLE CYPHER

at the

head of

FIRMAN.

"Written

tineh) in the

in the City of

MIDDLE IDES

CONSTANTINE (Kanstanof the

NEEN, and the 1269th year of Travelling in the East

is

MOON

of

MOHA-

HEGIRAH."

generally performed on

THE CAMEL.

102

horses and mules, as the roads are too rough

wheeled vehicles, and the tive

shrill whistle of the

locomo

has Dot yet awakened an echo in the valleys and

forests of either

European or Asiatic Turkey

consequently attended with if

for

much

;

it

is

fatigue, especially

you use post horses, with which, changing every

twelve or fourteen miles, you can

make

a distance of

about eighty miles a day.

You pay

so

much an

hour, and the speed at which

you go depends pretty much upon the amount of baksheesh

(presents)

you give the

surroudjee

or

postilion.

The camel

is

an animal that particularly arrests

the attention of the traveller in the East.

In Turkey

it is

of merchandize.

mostly used for the transportation

Large caravans of

camels

may

often be seen filing into Constantinople, laden with

the rich commodities of Persia and Arabia.

Nothing can be more novel and picturesque, more truly JEastern, than the sight of a caravan of camels,

moving slowly but steadily along, each animal accom panied by a venerable Turk or Arab, his long beard sweeping his breast, his ancient turban, garments, and his rich Persian scarf Damascus blades.

his

ample

bristling with

MAGNIFICENT STEEDS. The horses

103

of Turkey, being descended from the

Arab

are finely shaped, full of mettle, and very swift.

Even

the most ordinary riding horse that can be hired

for a

few piasters at the foot of the steep

you to the summit, But walk into the animal.

to carry

is

hill

of Pera,

a fine-looking, sprightly

stables of the Sultan or

grandees, or witness a grand ceremony, such as the

Sultan going to mosque, or such an one as that which occurs once a year within the walls of the Old Sera glio during the celebration of the

occasion

all

Bairam, on which

the principal officers of the realm are

mounted, and you can behold some of the most nificent steeds in the

world

bearing, as beautiful

in

under the circumstances

;

full

their

mag

of grace and noble

form and action

last referred to,

as,

they are in

their rich caparisons. It is astonishing at

what a low price a good horse

may

be purchased, an excellent one being obtainable

for

eighty

horse

is

dollars.

The

real, full-blooded

Arab

scarce even in Constantinople, and the Sultan

himself owns but few.

Whilst we were there, an English gentleman, Col. Williams, arrived from the frontiers of Turkey and Persia,

where he had been acting as a commissioner

VILLAGE OF BELGRADE.

104 to

settle

the boundary between the two countries,

bringing with him several full-blooded Arab steeds,

which he intended sending to England.

We

fully tested the merits of the

by taking many

rides over the

Eastern horses

European

hills

adja

cent to the Bosphorus, and through the lovely val leys opening into

One

it.

of these rides was to the village of Belgrade,

where formerly resided the accomplished Lady Mon tague, and from whence so many of her charming letters

The

were written. first

part of our road

wound along

the border

of a valley, smiling with the verdant luxuriance of

summer.

Deep, overhanging

foliage,

screened

us

from the rays of the morning sun, until, when in the upper part of the valley, we ascended a hill, from the summit of which

we enjoyed

a most delightful

prospect.

Anteriorly

the Black

clouds, presented its dark

Sea,

bosom

overhung by heavy to our view

;

in sin

gular relief with which the old Genoese Castle, occu exhibited a mingled and ruin. and sublime scene of gloom On the right, far below us, the charming Bosphorus

pying the remotest Asiatic

hill,

GODFREY DE BOUILLON.

105

laved the opposing shores of the two continents, whilst in the rear was fringed by the and minarets of old Stamboul. mosques We enjoyed an ever- varying view of these beau

the

clear horizon

teous scenes on attaining the summit of each suc

ceeding of

hill,

Belgrade

until

into the lovely village

lovely in the picturesqueness

;

and

its

The house

in

situation

we galloped

of

its

rural quietude.

which Lady Montague lived is still standing, but exhibits unmistakable evidences of the ravages of time.

On

our return from Belgrade,

we passed under the

grand Aqueduct of Justinian, which, with a double row of arches, stretches across the upper portion of the valley of Buyucdere.

In the lower part of

this luxuriant valley,

charm

ing not only on account of the beauty that nature

has lavished upon

it,

but also because of the gaudy

and picturesque costumes of

its

indwellers, flourish

four or five magnificent plantain trees, under whose

ample boughs,

camped with

it

his

is

said,

army

GODFREY OF BOUILLON en

of Crusaders in 1096.

This section of the valley is a favorite resort for the romantic youth of Buyucde re when "the silent

hour of eve steals

on."

106

From

RETURN

TO THERAPIA.

thence, keeping our course over the beautiful

road that winds along the circuitous shores of the Bosphorus, we soon reached our temporary residence in the village of Therapia.

CHAPTER Mahomet s

Injunctions as to Cleanliness

Supply of the Aqueous Element Aqueducts, &c.

Preparation

Room

Enter a

The Operator

Doing

in

Turkey as the

Turkish Towels

of Higher Temperature

of the System enter a

Provision for a

the Ordeal of a Turkish Bath

Change of Dress

Room

Ample

Magnificent Baths, Fountains,

Bends of Belgrade

Go through

Turkeys do

Clogs

XV.

still

hotter

Room

The

Wooden

After Preparation

Primitive Costume

His Manipulating and Kneading Process

Sore

Effects.

OF

all

the injunctions enforced

his devoted followers, there is

urging them

by Mahomet upon

no one, save his precept

to constant prayer, so rigidly

as that wherein he

adhered to

recommends the frequent ablution

of the body in water.

For the

latter purpose, as also for furnishing

an

abundant quantity of the pure element as a beverage, ample, provision is made within and around Constanti nople by the construction of numerous and magnifi cent baths and fountains, as also extensive reservoirs

and aqueducts

for their supply.

TURKISH BATH.

108

Every one who Eastern Capital

visits is

the neighborhood of the great

struck with the number, the vast-

and architectural beauty of the "Bends of Bel and the immense aqueducts that convey their grade,"

ness,

waters into the city.

The Baths are

Some

circular buildings.

in the city proper are quite large,

arrangements of them

all

and the

of those interior

are admirably adapted to

the purpose for which they are used.

Notwithstanding I had heard terrible accounts of the severe rubbing and ducking with which I would

be

inflicted, still, acting in

maxim,

"when

made bold

accordance with the old

Turkey, do as the Turkeys

do,"

I

go through the ordeal of a regular

to

Oriental bath

in

;

and, in order to impart to the reader

a correct idea of the general plan of the interior of a

bathing establishment, as well as

the^

bathing process,

I cannot do better than furnish a short account of

my

experience.

The

first

or preparation

room

into

which

my

bath

attendant conducted me, was a large, circular apart

ment, with an arched ceiling, which had a skylight in

the centre.

A

gallery,

which extended around

three-fourths of the room, was provided,

at convenient

TURKISH TOWELS.

109

distances from each other, with mattresses for the en

joyment of a siesta after the fatigues of the bath. In this gallery I changed my street habiliments for others

more appropriate

to the occasion, the latter

merely consisting of a couple of large Turkish towels properly adjusted.

Specimens of these celebrated towels took the pre mium at the World s Fair, at London. On one side they have a raised surface which renders them ad mirable absorbents.

Putting on a pair of wooden clogs, which had heels

and

soles

the feet

some two or three inches high, to protect from the warm marble floors, I descended

from the gallery, and after many desperate efforts to keep said clogs under my feet, and much difficulty to avoid scattering the

fire

and tobacco of a dozen pipes

that stretched out on the floor from the mouths of as

many smoking

Turks, I succeeded in gaining another

and smaller chamber, possessing a much higher tem perature than the former.

Here, on a mattress spread over a marble plat form, I was under the necessity of reclining for about fifteen minutes, so as

gradually to prepare

for the endurance of the

still

10

my system

higher temperature of

PRIMITIVE COSTUME.

110

the next apartment, into which

now

my Turkish attendant

led me.

The atmosphere close, that

it

room was

of this

so

warm and

materially affected the respiration,

and

caused the perspiration to ooze from every pore.

There I was, attired something ancestors were in the

had partaken of the forbidden supplying the place of the

In

like our first great

Garden of Eden, fruit

;

just after they

a single towel

fig leaf.

w as r

this primitive state I

laid out, sans cere-

monie, in a supine position, nothing but a blanket separating tion

me from

upon which

The

it

the decidedly hot marble eleva

was spread.

operator, a stalwart Turk, whose simplicity of

attire equalled

Kneeling

my

over

gently on each

rib,

own, now prepared for action.

me, he

commenced by pressing

and the intercostal spaces, using

both hands at the same time.

Gradually the pressure

increased, his well-practised fingers being introduced

between the

ribs in rather

an insinuating manner.

After continuing this manipulation sufficiently long to

make me

feel peculiarly

tender in that region, he

commenced a kneading process

just below the ribs,

manual exercises over the epigastric and hy pochondriac regions, almost convinced me that I was and

his

KNEADING PROCESS. in a bakery, the proprietor of ,fit

of absence of mind, taken

which he wished

to

work up

which had, in a sudden

me

for a batch of dough,

as thoroughly as possible.

However, the increased energy of of the sore effects visceral, soon

it

made me

Ill

action,

on account

produced, both muscular and fully

aware that I was not a

mass of dough. Nevertheless, I endured all with as much grace and forbearance as possible, only. mani festing my appreciation of such bodily torture by an occasional

wry

face,

and a

little

muscular writhing.

CHAPTER Bath continued

;i

A

Used-np

pense

Not Quite Washed

Alive

Hold!

Enough!

most Suffocated

the

Mahomedan

A

Man"

Away

Delicious State of Sus

A

Coat of Lather

Mummy Costume

Obesity of the Turks

Fountains Sultans

Skinned

Rough Scrubbing

"Macaroni"

The Bath Finished

Remedial Advantages Establishments

XVI.

Number of Bathing

Expressive Inscriptions Propitiating

the

Al

Siesta

Prophet

Bounty of

and Pur

chasing the Joys of Paradise.

AFTER having cracked sundry

joints

and com

pletely unstrung every fibre within me, rendering

altogether

"a

pretty well used-up

man,"

my

me

perse

vering operator varied the entertainment by carrying

me

into a small antechamber, where,

built in the wall, flowed a constant

under which he placed imagine

my

me and

from a fountain stream of water,

then left!

feelings for the next ten minutes, during

which time, in consequence of the attendant sence, I to

Just

was kept

s

ab

in a delicious state of suspense as

what would next ensue, and

in regard to the length

of time I would have to remain in that small room,

ROUGH SCRUBBING.

113

which, under the circumstances, began to assume the

appearance of a

cell,

which the semi-barbarous

in

wretch had incarcerated

me ?

But now he has

re

turned, and having discovered (to his great astonish

ment no doubt) that I am still alive and have not been washed away, he again takes me in hand.

He removed me his right

from under the cascade, and, with

hand covered with a coarse woollen glove,

he commenced such a vigorous scrubbing over various parts of the body as to

make me

entertain serious

apprehensions that I would pretty soon be fairly

skinned alive

!

I would fain have cried

"Hold!

enough!"

but of

would these or any other Christian exclama

what

avail

tions

have been with a Moslem, acquainted only with

his

own wild mother tongue

My

?

only alternative, as in the former case, was to

philosophically

"grin

and bear

it,"

though the rub

bing increased in intensity, and though successive rolls of the epidermis, in "macaroni,"

lines before

the baths familiarly termed

were triumphantly laid out in parallel

my

bewildered gaze

!

After this truly

refreshing and agreeable occupation had been con

tinued sufficiently long to leave

me

but a slight cuti-

cular investment, I was as completely covered with a 10*

MUMMY

114

thick lather of soap as an this

the

was washed lather,

mouth

COSTUME. Angola sheep

is

with wool;

by a Niagara of water, which, with entering the nostrils and causing the off

to be closed to prevent a similar ingress there,

came near producing suffocation. With joy I now learned that the bath was

finished,

and

mummy,

after being enveloped like

an Egyptian

in the aforementioned towels, with one

my

head

in the

bound around

form of a turban, I was reconducted

into the large apartment I first mentioned.

on

Reclining

my

mattress,

with

several

long-

bearded Mussulmans around me, who, robed in the

same antiquated

style,

were enjoying themselves in

the same sans souci manner, I whiled

hour of repose

;

away

a delicious

completely abandoning myself to the

luxurious relaxation consequent upon what I had just

passed through, and regaling myself with bet,

and

coffee, sher

pipes, furnished by Greek attendants.

Thus

do the more devout Mahomedans pass whole hours almost every day, observing the commands of their

Holy Prophet

in

regard to cleanliness, and resigning

themselves to a soft indolence

amid the oblivious

influences of tobacco fumes.

We arising

will

not dwell upon the obvious advantages

from a bath of the nature I have attempted

EXPRESSIVE INSCRIPTIONS.

115

to describe; the revulsion, the healthy excitation of

the various organs, the action upon the perspiratory glands, &c.

We

think that the obesity and well-conditioned

appearance of the Turks generally,

men, are attributable

But

women

as well as

to these daily ablutions.

this is not the place for a

medical dissertation.

There are over one hundred and twenty of these bathing establishments in and around Constantinople.

The

fountains in the city and suburbs are very

numerous and very beautiful ; in fact they are among the chief ornaments of the place, and their style of architecture is quite peculiar. On all of them are gold inscriptions, in Arabic characters, on a blue

ground, original, or extracts from the Koran

;

cele

brating, in glowing terms, the praises of the liquid

element.

The wayfarer

is

invited to partake of the refresh

ing draught, whose virtues far surpass the waters of the well of Paradise.

He

is

told that this particular

fountain was erected through the generosity of Sultan

Achmet

moud

III., or that

II.,

by the bounty of Sultan Mahacts of benevolence and

who, in these

devotion, have obtained eternal favor in the eyes of

116

JOYS OF PARADISE.

their great Prophet,

and secured

for their souls the

ravishing delights of Eden.

For the procurement of such

infinite

happiness,

every Sultan erects either a mosque or fountain, which bears his name.

AUahy to

He

adopts this

as he cannot conveniently

mode

make

Mecca, which, performed once in a

the Hadjee* to the joys of Paradise. *

A

pilgrim.

of pleasing

a pilgrimage

lifetime, entitles

CHAPTER

Unjust Condemnation of

Religious Devotion of the Turks

Prayer and Charity

The Koran

Turkish Superstition

The

Grave

"

XVII.

Evil

Fatalism of the Turks

Example for Charms

Eye"

Them

Christians

The Giant

s

Recklessness in Battle

Apathy

Assurances of Happiness.

"

GOD

is

Great and Mahomet

Thus exclaims and thus as,

his

His

is

believes the

Prophet."

Moslem

devotee,

on bended knee and half prostrate, he sends up earnest

supplications

to

Allah

in

the

high

heavens.

When zin

by the muez towering minaret, summons the

the call to prayer, proclaimed

from some

faithful to the worship of Jehovah, whether he

when

is,

amid the pleasureupon seeking crowds which throng the Valleys of the Sweet Waters of Asia; whether in the presence of the true the sound falls

believer

or

infidel

his ear,

regardless

;

around him or the

criticising

Christian, he inclines

his face

of

the

excitement

observations of the

toward Mecca, and

THE KORAN.

118

mutters his orisons with an earnestness and fervency, peculiar alone to the worshipping

seen him

I have

Mahomedan.

on the deck of the crowded

steamer, as she ploughed her way through the rushing

some chosen spot by the margin of the winding Bosphorus, within his dark shaded cemetery,

waters

in

;

near the tomb of some friend, whose soul he believed

had been wafted and

hillside

to the

arms of Abraham

in the valley, place himself in

on the

;

an ador

ing posture, and become wholly engrossed in prayerful devotion.

We

are too apt to

condemn the Turk in

account of his peculiar religion.

upon and

From

afar

toto

we gaze

find fault with all the glaring defects

that religion, but never pause to admire

its

on

of

sublime

truths and beauties.

We

arc shocked at the Prophet s

lowers a multiplicity of wives, but injunctions which

recommend

allowing his

fail to

fol

admire the

his votaries to constant

prayer, deeds of charity, and acts of love. The Koran, though the Bible of a false Prophet, contains of which

many by

sublime precepts, the strict observance

their believers, affords

an example that

might be profitably imitated by thousands of pseudo

TURKISH SUPERSTITION. Christians

in

reference

doctrines of

the

to

119

Holy

Writ.

Were the

the most of us as mindful of the teachings of

Son of God

as the

Mahomedan

is

of those of the

Arabian Prophet, immorality would be a thing almost unknown among us, and our favored land would uni versally exult in the light of those Divine

Rays that

emanate from the Great Redeemer. Yet, from the very nature of his belief, the

sulman

is

superstitious to a very great degree

this superstition,

mitive

however, there

simplicity of

is

Mus

;

with

associated a pri

manners, a uniform integrity

and ingenuousness, that challenge admiration.

Among

the singular superstitions of the Turks, the

Arabs, as well as most Oriental nations, the existence of the

"

Evil

Eye;"

and the

is

crediting

belief that

certain prayers or signs, offerings or sacrifices, will

avert

its influence.

Amulets are worn by men and women, and sus pended around the necks of the children.

The brute

creation, too,

as the prancing charger

charm adorning

Nor do they come

is

protected thus from

is

often seen with a huge

evil,

his forehead.

stop here

;

objects of solicitude,

even inanimate things be

and

it

is

no rare sight

to

THE GIANT

120

S

GIIAVE.

see a dwelling protected from

agency of a string of eaves

suspended from

onions

its

!

On is

harm by the potent

the summit of the

"

a grave, which some say

According

to

Giant is

s Mountain,"

there

that of Joshua.

Turkish tradition,

this

mountain w as r

once inhabited bjk a huge giant, so large that he could

on the top and bathe his feet in the Bosphorus

sit

which laves

is

its

base.

Whatever may be the truth in the matter, the place held sacred. The grave is enclosed, and an aged

Moslem Dervish keeps his constant vigils near it. It is a shrine for the more infatuated Turks, and they often offer up their prayers within

its

sacred pre

cincts.

hang shreds of the garments of those who are suffering with disease, and who place them there,

Near

it

under the impression that healing virtues are derived

from the pious

By

act.

the way, this grave

length, which fact would

is

not over thirty feet in

seem

to

conflict

with the

story that the diminutive individual in question could

place his feet at the base whilst sitting on the

mit

;

sum

but the pious Dervish solves the mystery by con

tending that

it

only contains the giant

s

big toe.

A

FATALISM. single leaf from the

121

Koran, or even a scrap of paper

on which are written verses from that book, which he believes descended from the heavens, cherished by the

Moslem

;

is

highly

with this about his person

he would consider himself invulnerable, and nothing

would induce him to destroy it. Should such a remnant meet

his observation in the

public highway, he would secure and protect

it

as a

precious jewel.

The Turks are

fatalists.

believe that Allah

They

has pre-ordained every event, and a person will not question the sincerity of this belief

when he witnesses

the apathy with which they witness the progress of a

which they are themselves the victims. Frequently, when their houses are being demolished disaster of

by the to

fiery element, instead of using every exertion

extinguish the flames, they merely stroke their

beards, look resignedly up to heaven, and exclaim "

MasJiallah

!"

(In the

name

of

God

!)

This doctrine of fatalism, in connection with the

promise of Mahomet, that the souls of are killed in the defence of the

all

"

faith"

those will

who

be in

stantly transported to Paradise, renders the Turk,

generally speaking, perfectly reckless on the battle field.

11

122

FEARLESSNESS IN BATTLE.

Confident that he will either perish or survive ac

cording to the previous designs of Jehovah satisfied that in either case

ward, in the former

he

will

;

fully

meet a happy

re

by being ushered into the midst

of the Houris and Rose Beds of Eden, and in the latter

by obtaining the favor of the Holy Prophet,

he rushes boldly and fearlessly into the thickest of the conflict, unheeding and uncaring for the personal

consequences.

CHAPTER Hurried Burials

Singular Beliefs tioning

Mahomedan Heaven Turk

s

Attachment

of

Turks

agony

On

Drawn

Soul

Heaven

s

Funeral Practices out through the

Celestial

is,

to his

Religion

American Missionaries

the most

The

Mouth

Religious Liberty

body

this account,

is

The s

The

at Constantinople.

extraordinary beliefs

of the

that the soul of a deceased person

until the

Ques

Rarity of his Conversion to

is

in

interred.

is

they hurry

it off

from the place

of demise to the grave as speedily as possible it

"

The Unbeliever

Houris

Prejudices against Christians

Christianity

ONE

The

Angel

XVIII.

;

and

indeed a curious and horrifying spectacle to

witness a

upon a

corpse, clad

litter,

four men,

who

which

is

in

sepulchral

garb, placed

borne upon the shoulders of

are hurrying the body rapidly along

to its final resting-place.

The passer-by would think

that they were trying to get rid of their friend in as

summary a manner as possible. To add to the novelty as well

as the horror of this

FUNERAL PRACTICES.

124

can behold the uncovered, ghastly

sight, the looker-on

features,

now

rigid in icy death.

Only the male friends of the deceased accompany his

remains to the grave.

Before he

is

taken from the house, prayers are

recited over his body,

and the ancient usage practised

of washing the feet.

There are few,

if

any, ceremonies by the side of

the grave.

The surviving

relatives do not put

on any habili

ments of mourning, but sometimes the men manifest their grief for the loss of their kindred,

their beards to

grow According to popular

after the

body

appears

to

is

the

interrogatories

by allowing

to a prodigious length.

;

immediately

superstition,

interred, the

deceased,

asking him

"

Questioning

and if

propounds

Angel"

certain

he has always been a

good Mussulman, has always endeavored to please If his answers are satisfactory, his

Allah, &c., &c.

soul passes gently

and imperceptibly from

into all the untold delights of Paradise

;

his

body

but should

the angel be displeased with the responses, the unfor

tunate defunct

amid the

s soul is

direst

drawn

torture,

out through his mouth,

and consigned

to the region

of eternal darkness.

The Mahomedan

s

heaven

is

a place of ecstatic

THE MAHO ME DAN bliss,

the

HEAVEN.

S

125

where, in the midst of the most perfect beauty, "faithful"

will

enjoy

the

thousands of the most lovely and

companionship

of

ravishing houris.

The more obedient they have been to Mahomet s commands, the more beautiful and plentiful are the celestial

fairies

with whose presence they will be

blessed.

The Koran

assigns a different heaven, with an

inferior degree of happiness in

unbelievers.

Regarding us as

it,

to us poor, outside

"infidels,"

it

deems

it

unreasonable to imagine that we can enjoy the same exquisite felicity as its votaries, in a future state.

There

still

some of the ancient prejudices whom the Turks call giaours;*

linger

against Christians,

but they are rapidly disappearing, and nowT scarcely ever manifest themselves, save in some such fanatical

season as the holy month Ramazan, which I have

already partially described.

As

far as the Porte

extraordinarily

is

concerned, she appears to be

well-disposed

towards

Christians

;

allowing them full religious liberty and every privi lege they might reasonably desire, with the exception of

holding landed property, in their

within her dominions. *

A

word of contempt. 11*

own names,

AMEEICAN MISSIONARIES.

126

In Pera, the Frank quarter of Constantinople, there are several Greek churches, and in the chapel

of

the

service

Palace,

English is

the

Protestant

Episcopal

held every Sunday morning.

The Turks

remarkable for

are

their

invincible

attachment to their religion, almost every bring

them

over

to

A

utterly abortive.

single instance, almost

faith of his fathers, occurred whilst

stantinople

;

it

proved

having

Christianity

the only one on record, of a Turk

and

effort to

produced

that the poor fellow found

it

so

s

if

not

changing the

we were

at

Con

much excitement

necessary to leave the

country.

The

efforts

of the enterprising and efficient

rican Missionaries in

Turkey are

Ame

directed, not to the

conversion of the Islamites, but the Armenians and others, for the

instruction of whose

children they

have established a school, wherein are taught the English language, and the bright, elevating truths

and principles of Christianity.

CHAPTER XIX. The Mahomedan Sabbath Peculiar into the

Mode

Separation of the Sexes in the Mosques

of Worship

How

Mosques

Requirements

obtained

to

gain Admittance

Bayard Taylor and his friend

Harrison having succeeded in visiting Mecca in the

Harrison

Mosque in the same Costume Mosque of St. Sophia A sacred

guise of a Turk, attempts to enter a Is detected

Beats a Retreat

Repository of Valuables.

IN Turkey, as gion

is

in

most other countries whose

reli

a nationality, those occupying an humble po

sition in life are

much more

enthusiastic as well as

sincere in their religious devotions than others, who,

by being

in a

politically, strife for

position, pecuniarily or

have their minds vitiated by luxury or the

high places.

Yet are the obedience

more exalted

to,

latter far

from lacking respect

for, or

the requirements of their creed.

The highest

dignitaries of the land, not excepting

the Sultan himself, scarcely ever allow the sun to

perform his diurnal

circuit

without prostrating them

selves before the throne of Allah.

PECULIAR MODE OF WORSHIP.

128

Friday

is

the

Mahomedan

On

sabbath.

that day

the mosques are open, and their matted floors covered

with the kneeling and cross-legged

women

The

are

faithful.

permitted to worship

the

in

mosques, but are compelled to form themselves into a

somewhat remote from the men.

distinct group,

the

Though

Mufti sometimes

officiates,

yet fre

quently no one acts in the capacity of preacher worshipper, with his face serving the

;

each

turned toward the Holy City,

Most High

in

any manner that corre

sponds with his individual inclination. It

is

a very novel sight to see a large

number of

Mussulmans engaged in their peculiar devotions. Whilst some are kneeling with their eyes turned heavenward, others

are standing erect, their arms

crossed over their breasts

humbly floor

prostrated, that

all

;

whilst others

their foreheads

still

are so

touch the

and these

are muttering their prayers,

dif

ferent postures accord with the strength and fervency

of the different passages in the prayers.

Every one who enters the mosques must take

off

and put on slippers. imperative, and applies to the believer

his shoes at the door,

This rule

is

as well as the unbeliever.

To provide

for its observ-

THE MOSQUES. you must have

ance,

vasse, or servant,

slippers of

129

your own

your ca-

the change for you, and

making

taking charge of your shoes until your return.

Franks cannot gain admittance into the mosques without the procurement of a firman, or permit, from the Sultan. It is also necessary to

who

have a cavasse of the Porte,

acts in the double capacity of guide and guard,

and whose presence

testifies to

the Turks that their

worthy sovereign has granted you the privilege of traversing their holy sanctuaries. With these accom paniments you need not be under any apprehension of being interfered with

by even the most

fanatical.

Strangers obtain the firman through the agency of their respective Legations,

and when intending

to

go

through the mosques, form a party of about a dozen persons.

On

the occasion of our

visit,

we enjoyed

the plea

sure of

Bayard Taylor s company. Taylor had just returned from his extensive

in Africa,

travels

from whence he had written many interest

ing letters to the

New York

Tribune.

His friend, Harrison, of Kentucky, who journeyed with him, was also one of the party.

THE TRAVELLERS.

130

These gentlemen travelled through the East Oriental costume

;

and, speaking a

little

in full

Arabic, at

the same time having suitable personal appearances,

passed muster as very good Mussulmans.

Harrison was clad a

la

One

Turque when with us.

day he attempted to enter a mosque without a fir man. He was flushed with confidence, inasmuch as he had, clad in his Eastern guise, with his flowing beard, and smattering of Arabic, succeeded in accom plishing what very few Christians ever have accom plished, viz.

muttering devout. as a

:

a pilgrimage to Mecca, kneeling and

most

his prayers, with the

It so

gentleman

happened that a

whom

faithful

and

Turk recognized him

he had, a day or two previously,

observed holding a very animated conversation, in

good Anglo-Saxon, with the American charge

knowing that none of

his

such a lingual miracle

;

and

countrymen could perform as

that,

he made his way

towards Harrison with no very amiable expression on his countenance.

Our

friend, observing his advance, concluded that

discretion retreat,

was the better part of

making good

his escape

valor,

and beat a

from the vicinity of

the mosque ere the virtuous indignation, occasioned

by

his intrusion,

had gathered

into a storm.

SOPHIA.

ST.

131

It is superfluous, I think, to furnish the reader with

a description of the mosques, as those noble Moslem constitute the

temples, that

chief features

the

in

Old Stamboul presents to the greedy eyes of the voyager as he rounds the Golden Horn, have been so frequently and so faithfully beautiful tableau that

described by others more competent to the task than myself.

Who

has not read of St. Sophia, with

its

immense

dome, that appears to be suspended in the heavens

;

columns of many-hued marbles, and its ceilings of mosaic ? Once the pride of the Christian world, it

its

still,

though stripped of much of

deur, stands the acknowledged

homedan.

is

not

matters with which

it is

It

my

its

pristine gran wonder of the Ma-

speak of

province to

presumed almost every one is familiar, but merely those, which, from their apparent insignificance, or from some other cause best known to

themselves,

mention,

book

writers

these

knowing that

exemplify, as

much

as

neglect

subordinate

among whom

they

to

matters

any other, the peculiar

racteristics of the people

To

generally

cha

exist.

discover one of these peculiarities, let us pause

moment, and look up into the gallery of St. There we see an innumerable quantity of Sophia.

for a

132

ST.

boxes, packages,

value all

;

piles of

mean ?

SOPHIA.

and every conceivable

of prayer

are

does

of it

assuredly not to

is

be converted into a place for barter luables

What

money, diamonds, &c.

The house

article

?

No, these va

merely placed there for safe keeping.

Their owners have gone on a pious pilgrimage to

Mecca, and have

left their

property there, under the

firm conviction that no sacrilegious

during their absence.

There

it

hand

is

will

doubly

harm safe,

it

as

besides not being exposed to the dangers of the de

vastating fires which so frequently nople,

it is

impossible for a

afflict

Moslem

to

Constanti

commit any

act of dishonesty within the sacred precincts of a

sanctuary dedicated

to

Allah and the Prophet.

CHAPTER XX. The

Sultan Going to and Returning from

The Royal Barge

cession

The Howling Dervishes Wild Fanaticism

A

Mosque Moslem Summons

of Scutari

of Pera

to

Pro

Worship

Their Thrilling Ceremonies

Torturing Instruments

The Whirling Dervishes

Brilliant

Closing Scenes

Exclusion of the Females

Learned Patriarchs.

THE

Sultan going

to,

or returning from mosque,

most interesting, as well as im posing spectacles to be witnessed in the Turkish affords one of the

Capital.

He richly

is, if

on land, mounted on a magnificent and

caparisoned

Arab

charger.

Two

or

more

riderless horses follow in his wake, each with superb

trappings, and, like the animal on which he rides, led

by formidable-looking grooms. The Military Body Guard of His Majesty, and

sometimes a few high dignitaries, the latter in the saddle, form a part of the brilliant procession that at tends His Highness on such occasions. 12

THE IIOYAL BARGE.

134

On

the Bosphorus he glides in a highly wrought

caique,

propelled by sixteen caiquejies, who, with a

long simultaneous sweep of the oars, fairly

barge

legged, he

sits

occupies, in which,

under a royal canopy,

two others that go before the all

the

over the water.

fly

The caique which he

"

make

RULER or THE

is

preceded by

to herald the

and

UNIVERSE,"

cross-

approach of

to intimate to

the boats scattered over the Bosphorus that His

Excellency must have a wide margin to move "The

sound of the church-going

bell"

is

in.

unheard

in Constantinople proper, the hour of worship

and of

prayer being announced from the minarets by the

muezzim, whose prolonged cry

La Allah;

Mohammed

resoul Allah (there

Mahomet

his prophet), as

is

is

illah, Allah

but one

it falls

God and

upon the

silence

of eve, has a truly singular effect.

As among

religious sects in general, there are

whose peculiar division of the

rites

body

distinguish

ecclesiastical, so

homedans there are

those,

tenets in the main,

as the

brethren, yet whose ship constitutes

them

still

some

as a distinct

among

the

Ma-

who, holding the same rest of

their religious

more singular mode of wor

them a separate people.

HOWLING DERVISHES. I have reference

135

Howling Dervishes of

to the

Scutari and the Whirling Dervishes of Pera.

would be impossible for pen and ink to give an adequate idea of the wild antics, and the still wilder It

guttural sounds, that characterize the religious exer cises of the former, or the rigid liar

countenances and pecu

rotary motions of the latter.

Each

sect performs

once a week.

The

part of the ceremonies of the Howling

first

Dervishes

is

quiet enough

;

principally consisting in

prayer and an embracing of each other, and their

who occupy a position in the room corresponding with the direc

venerable Patriarchs,

upper part of the tion of Mecca.

But the excitement and fervor grow apace sepulchral howl soon ejaculations

countenances

among each

;

sits

upon

their

they walk with hurried steps, and

other, in

many

come the howls, wilder the devious pace.

a deep

becomes conspicuous in the

a phrenzied expression

;

;

a giddy

maze

visages,

;

wilder be

more rapid the

Club-shaped instruments, with bul

bous ends set with iron points, are wielded high in

and brought down with great apparent force upon their naked bodies sharp swords are driven into them by a cudgel s heavy blows ; the points of the

air,

;

WHIRLING DERVISHES.

136

heavy iron weapons are placed upon the eye, and then twirled upon that delicate organ.

At

length, after the excitement has attained the

highest pitch

;

the cries have become like those of the

raving maniac their motions of unsurpassable vio lence and their blood, made to flow by self-inflicted ;

;

hands, has crimsoned their bodies, they are carried out fainting and exhausted from the scene of their religious zeal. It

is

said that in the

Barbary seasons, these Dervishes become

States, in certain so furious

in the

midst of their unique performances, that they rush out into the streets, with the instruments of torture in their hands,

Israel

and wo betide the unfortunate son of

who then happens

almost certainly

fall

to cross their path

;

he would

a victim to their wild fanati

cism.

The

Whirling Dervishes

Commencing

are

more

their religious rites in the

peaceable.

same manner

as their howling neighbors, they continue

them by a

steady, whirling motion, with their arms extended and their eyes cast

With

downward.

their heads

brirnless hats,

and

surmounted by sugar-loaf shaped, their loose

skirts,

whose lower

LEARNED PATRIARCHS.

137

margins, in the act, describe a perfect circle, round,

round they go, unceasingly for hours.

Women

are not allowed to participate in the cere

monies of either the Howling or the Whirling Der vishes.

In the mosque of the latter were since our visit to

by

fire

latticed

it,

I say were, for,

the mosque has been destroyed

windows

in the walls, through

which

the Turkish females peeped at their rotating mascu line lords.

I would here remark, that the undue zeal mani

by these strange sects is condemned by the mass of Mahomedans and I would also do them the fested

;

justice to

say, that

many

of their

venerable and

patriarchal members are men of great learning and research.

12*

CHAPTER XXL Their Vastness

Turkish Cemeteries press Trees Inscriptions

Woman s

As

Turbaned Stones

Eyoub

Cemetery of Scutari

Mingled Scene

Cy

Carvings and

Character of the Epitaphs

Examples

Soul.

a fitting topic to succeed what I have said about

the religious devotions and superstitions of the Turks, I will

now make

homedan

a few remarks concerning the

Ma-

cemeteries, whose vastness and singularity

arrest the attention of every sojourner at Constanti

nople, causing

him to

his eye dwells

upon

feel, as

doth almost every object

in the Orient, that

he

is

indeed in

a strange land, and amidst a strange and peculiar people.

Taking an elevated, central on the top of the Seraskier fine

s

position, such as that

Tower, we command a

view of numbers of those almost boundless forests

of dark cypress trees, within whose profound shade

the

monuments

of millions of defunct Turks

their turbaned heads.

We

will discover

rear

that they

TURBANED STONES.

139

form a very distinguishing feature in the magnificent picture spread out around us.

The of

and most interesting

largest

Scutari,

is

the Cemetery

on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus.

This cemetery

is

cypress trees,

tall

The

over three miles in length.

and slender,

like the minarets at

tached to the mosques, being thickly planted, and the tombstones occupying in some places almost every foot of

ground

extremely

way

left

difficult

vacant by the trees, render

it

an

matter for a person to wend his

through these fields of the dead, except over the

main path. Nothing can excel the startling effect of the dark mingled view of tombs and cypress trees.

Many

of the stones are capped

or the turban latter

;

by the Tarbouch,

the ample and painted folds of the

much

resembling so

the genuine article as to

induce one, on a hurried glance through the des Morts, to fancy

it

Champs

crowded with venerable Mos

lems who are standing as sentinels over the graves of departed friends.

The

inscriptions, as well as the

ornamental designs,

are in relief, and generally gilded.

Many

of the marble slabs are painted a

gaudy

INSCRIPTIONS.

140

color, their bright

hues affording a strange contrast

with the cypress gloomy shade.

Some

are carved and gilded with

much elegance

and good taste but as a general thing they do not present an appearance that corresponds with our idea ;

of

Only occasionally you

beauty.

see

them sur

rounded or protected by any kind of enclosure those at Eyoub, up the Golden Horn, are

first

;

but

walled

and screened by wire-work that rises like an arbor These are really elegant, and are the above them. in

tombs of distinguished characters. tombs

Hard by

the mosque wherein the Sultans of

is

these

Turkey

gird on the sword of Othman.

The

epitaphs, which are either original or extracts

from the Koran, do not so much record the virtues of the deceased as they furnish admonitions to the living.

In order to give an idea of their tone and senti ment, I herewith subjoin a few specimens, translated

from

the

carved

Arabic,

in

which

language

they

:

HIM, Death

The

THE ETERNAL AND EVERLASTING! is

a cup, out of which

shroud, a garment in

all

which

must drink; all

must be dressed;

are

INSCRIPTIONS. The

hearse, a carriage in

The

grave, a door through which

The

earth

is

From God

home where

a

all

which

came,

all

all

all

141

must ride

all

;

must pass

;

must dwell;

must return

to

Him.

Say a Fatha (opening chapter of the Koran) for

OEM AN AGA.

the soul of

1252.

HIM,

THE ETERNAL!

My

SADIKA has gone,

My

darling child has

Alas! Alas! left

me,

Alas! Alas!

SADIKA

The

Has gone Pray a Fatha

for

my eyes, my hopes,

the light of

!

rose garden of

to Paradise.

SADIKA, the daughter of OSMAN BEY.

A. H.

1256.

HIM, Alas

!

AHMED BEY

Unfortunate

May

woman,

S

wife has

left this

passing scene

;

she had to forsake her ten young children

she be irfTmersed in the Sea of Mercy of the All Just

With eyes

The

THE ETERNAL AND EVERLASTING!

filled

with grief

s tears I

Eternal in His mercy has taken

HIM, Scarce had

When

I

write her epitaph;

my

garden of

Say a Fatha

for

this

Shemsieh Kadin.

THE ETERNAL!

become a mother and seen

the arrow of destiny sent

I left the

!

world

my

my

new-born

child,

soul into Eternal Life

for that of Paradise.

AYESHA, wife of ORMAN EFFENDI.

:

;

WOMAN

142

HIM,

heedless wanderer close I

became

THE ETERNAL!

moment

Passer-by, look a

not neglectful, but seek ;

SOUL.

S

at this

wisdom

my

what sorrows have

earth,

and

IBRAHIM EFFENDI

this stone is

S wife,

tomb.

If

you are wise, be

at its source (Religion). I not

met with ?

placed above

my

I

was a

At

their

head.

say a Fatha for her soul.

After reading the aforegoing epitaphs we would not

be inclined to coincide with the generally entertained opinion that the

Mahomedan

though, with Moore, he

denies a soul to

may

and thinking are out of her

believe that

sphere."

woman

;

"reason

CHAPTER Down Among

the

Dead

the Females

Of

the Janissaries

Men"

XXII.

Female Resorts

Tombstones of

Separate Burying Grounds

Characteristics of the Turkish, Armenian, Jewish, &c., Cemeteries

Disinclination of the

Turk

to

be Buried in European Soil

Belief as to the Ultimate Fate of at the Close of his

NOTWITHSTANDING

the buried dead.

among

Mausoleum of Mahmoud

II.

the superstitious nature of the

have no dread of being near

Orientals, they appear to

are

European Turkey

Mortal Career

His

Consolation

On

the contrary, the cemeteries

the favorite

haunts of both

men and

women. I have seen those cemeteries which border on the

Bosphorus

wrapped

filled

with

in their gaily

Turkish females, who,

the

colored ferigees and white

yashmaks, formed, amidst the leaning marble slabs and cypress trees, many a picturesque group. There, with naught but the grass-covered earth or the

marble slab as carpet or divan, will they away many an hour chatting, smoking, par

tijp llltwfarfw parlour Jibrartj AND

BIBLE COMPANIONS. The following volumes are among the most elegant specimens from the American press. In neatness and chasteness of execution, they are perhaps unsurpassed. The engravings are of the highest and

most

and with great beauty, some of the most sublime and the most touching Scripture scenes. They also contain some of the richest specimens ot Sacred Poetry, whose subject and style are such as deeply to interest the imagination, and at the same time to make the order,

illustrate

We hope

heart better.

strikingly,

the Christian s table, at least,

and such as are like them.

may be adorned with

the volumes mentioned.

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I

An American Among Orientals

An Angel Among Vampires

An Arrangement Among Gentlemen

An Angel Among Vampires

Among Empires: American Ascendancy and Its Predecessors

American Jihad: The Terrorists Living Among Us

Among Empires: American Ascendancy and Its Predecessors

Among Empires: American Ascendancy and Its Predecessors

Plain Secrets: An Outsider Among the Amish

Risky Behavior Among Youths: An Economic Analysis

An All American Hero

An American Childhood

An American Tragedy

An American Tragedy

An American Bulldog

An American Spy

An American Spy

An Accidental American

An Accidental American

An American Flying Pioneer

An American Tragedy

An American Life

Polio: An American Story

Plain Secrets: An Outsider among the Amish

An American Childhood

An American Bulldog

Divorce: An American Tradition

An American Carol

An American Childhood

Pox: An American History

Democracy An American Novel

An American Among Orientals

An Angel Among Vampires

An Arrangement Among Gentlemen

An Angel Among Vampires

Among Empires: American Ascendancy and Its Predecessors

American Jihad: The Terrorists Living Among Us

Among Empires: American Ascendancy and Its Predecessors

Among Empires: American Ascendancy and Its Predecessors

Plain Secrets: An Outsider Among the Amish

Risky Behavior Among Youths: An Economic Analysis

An All American Hero

An American Childhood

An American Tragedy

An American Tragedy

An American Bulldog

An American Spy

An American Spy

An Accidental American

An Accidental American

An American Flying Pioneer

An American Tragedy

An American Life

Polio: An American Story

Plain Secrets: An Outsider among the Amish

An American Childhood

An American Bulldog

Divorce: An American Tradition

An American Carol

An American Childhood

Pox: An American History

Democracy An American Novel

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